NWPalate

January / February 2010

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The Inns & Dining Outs of
by Cole Danehower
 Sniff
The Willamette Valley has long been a favored destination of the
hungry and thirsty. Lured by visions of agricultural riches, nearly half
a million 19th century pioneers journeyed west. Reaching the
end of the Oregon Trail, they spread across the valley to fill it with
some of the earliest farms, orchards, vineyards—even a distillery—
in the Northwest. Today, the Willamette Valley remains
a grail for travelers wanting to experience the alimentary
affluence of one of America’s greatest agrarian regions.
The 21st century culinary tourist will find much to explore in
the Willamette Valley, from nearly 200 wineries and more
than a dozen breweries, to innumerable roadside farm stands,
farmers markets, and U-pick farms. And thanks to a variety of
both old and new visitor resources, experiencing these riches has
never been easier or more pleasurable.
The Allison Inn & Spa, for instance, epitomizes the renascent
pioneer spirit. Newly opened, The Allison offers amenities
galore, making it the first destination resort in the valley and
an ideal launching pad for exploring the epicurean attractions.
S
Roaming the Heart of Oregon’s Wine Country
In the Willamette Valley, you don’t want to spend all of
your time indoors. This is world-famous wine country, after
all. But with nearly 200 wineries to choose from, where
do you start? One approach is to visit a wine bar where a
selection of the region’s wines can be sampled in one
sitting. The brainchild of one of Oregon’s founding
wine families, the Ponzi Wine Bar on Highway 99 in
Dundee is both a wine industry hangout and a great
place to take a virtual tour of surrounding wineries.
While you enjoy small plates and carefully selected wine
flights, chat with fellow visitors or the knowledgeable
staff to get ideas on where to go next. Further south
in McMinnville, the new Willamette Valley Vineyards
Wine Center offers fascinating educational exhibits
that add valuable context to your tastings in the
valley. While you can only purchase Willamette Valley
Vineyards wines here, the winery generously pours
a rotating selection of regional samples that can get you
ready for visiting tasting rooms on your own. (See page
 15 for a full write-up about the wine center.) Nearby, the
NW Wine Bar has an eclectic sampling of both Old and
New World wines alongside a menu of small plates,
sandwiches, and pizzas to sustain you for further wine
travels. The Horse Radish in Carlton is another welcoming
place to drop in and taste the area’s wines; while you’re
there, pick up a selection of artisan cheeses, cured meats,
and deli sandwiches for the road. When planning to visit
individual tasting rooms, strategizing a doable tasting day can
be challenging. Make it easy: tour and taste in just one of
the Willamette Valley’s six sub-appellations, so you can sample
in depth the localized differences in soil and climate that
make each appellation unique. For instance, in the
Dundee Hills appellation, where Pinot Noir got its start in
the Willamette Valley, there are many famous-name
wineries that offer prestige wines and rich tasting room
selections. Domaine Drouhin, Archery Summit, Domaine
Serene, Stoller, The Eyrie, Sokol Blosser, Argyle, and Erath
are prime examples.

Swirl
More than Just Wine Country
While the Willamette Valley is famous as a viticultural region,
you don’t have to stick to wine. In Forest Grove, SakéOne is the
only American-owned and -operated kura (saké brewery) in
the world. Thanks to the quality of the local water, SakéOne
produces both traditional saké and new, American-inspired
styles. They have fantastic rice wine. A visit to their shop
provides a different kind of tasting experience, and one that
can only be had in the Willamette Valley.
Another tasty beverage made in the Willamette Valley is hard
cider. The Wandering Aengus Ciderworks tasting room in the
Spit
Eola Hills outside of Salem illustrates just how appealing
this ancient beverage can be. Owners Mimi Casteel and Nick
Gunn use sustainably grown cider apples (more tart than for
normal eating), many from heirloom strains, to craft a variety
of local ciders, from dry to sweet. Enjoyable on their own, they
also make great food accompaniments.
Since the Willamette Valley is one of the world’s leading
producers of hops, it is no wonder the area offers many locally
made beers. Mostly found in the valley’s cities, craft brewers
produce multiple styles. In Corvallis, look for Oregon Trail
&
Brewery and Block 15 Restaurant & Brewery. Albany is home to
Calapooia Brewing, and Hop Valley is in Springfield. In the
Silverton area, sample tap beers from Seven Brides Brewing,
and in Oakridge you’ll find Oregon’s only “Real Ale” style
English pub and brewery at Brewers Union Local 180. Also in
Corvallis, Salem, Eugene, and McMinnville, you can find locally
made beers at the many different McMenamins properties.
Eugene is also a destination for fine beer. Steelhead Brewing
offers craft beers and food at their brewpub, while Eugene City
Brewery bills itself as an “artisan varietal brewery” that offers
brews and bites. Ninkasi Brewing has no pub (though visitors
are welcome), but their fine beers are brewed here and found
around the local scene. The beers of small Oakshire Brewing
and McMinnville’s Heater Allen are also on tap at many local
restaurants and taverns.