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Carpe diem.
It's a bit surprising to see that Blake Mycoskie repeatedly invokes
such a hoary old self-help slogan. But there it is, in foot-high,
wooden letters on an upstairs landing at the Los Angeles
headquarters of his shoe and accessories company, Toms. There it
is again, in a painting on the wall of his office/man cave. And you'll
find him repeating it several times in his book, Start Something
That Matters.
If there's anyone who can make a case for seizing the day, it's
Mycoskie. He has done it repeatedly and successfully over the past
seven years, orchestrating Toms's rise into the top flight of fashion
and establishing it as a new kind of business. More than any other
brand, Toms has integrated old-fashioned, for-profit
entrepreneurship with new-wave, bleeding-heart philanthropy,
bonding moneymaking and giving in an unprecedented manner.
The company has become so closely identified with giving away a
pair of shoes to a poor child for every pair sold--Toms has
trademarked the tagline "one for one"--that it's often mistaken for
a charity. And it has spawned buy-one-give-one copycats offering
everything from dog treats to cups of coffee.
pairs in the past two years--and in turn has helped deliver eye care
to more than 150,000 people. Toms currently donates shoes in 59
countries and eye care in 13. The figures add up to remarkable
growth for a remarkable company, one that has put shoes on the
feet of many poor children, made its owner a very rich man, and
pioneered a much-admired business model. "I had no idea it would
ever get this big," says Mycoskie, a 36-year-old Texan whose laidback, surfer-dude vibe masks the ambition of an entrepreneur who
prefers to talk less about the company he has built than of the
movement he is building. "Now that we've grown, it's all about:
How do you use these resources to do even more?"
Mycoskie says the one-for-one model
Related: The
could involve much more than your feet
Broken BuyOne, Give-One
and your eyes--he envisions a Toms
Model: 3 Ways
empire that encompasses all sorts of
To Save Toms
Shoes
everyday products. But what many of his
critics would like him to talk about instead-and what, during two long interviews with
Fast Company, he discussed publicly at length for the first time-are Toms's failings on the giving side and its plans to change its
ways. You could sum that up with a different Latin phrase: Mea
culpa.
Others say Toms addresses the wrong issue. Scott Gilmore, CEO
of the not-for-profit Building Markets, which works to boost local
economies in post-conflict countries, says the problem of
persistent poverty is "not a lack of shoes, but a lack of opportunity
and a lack of jobs." While he concedes that Toms has helped to
build awareness of poverty, he argues that its success really shows
the power of monetizing white guilt. "How can we make ourselves
feel better?" he asks. "This is the power of self-congratulatory
years ago, is dotted with pockets of poverty. From the sleepy town
center--there's just one restaurant and one guesthouse, catering
mostly to passing truckers--you have to bump along red dirt roads
for 40 hilly kilometers, past orchards and pastures and fields of
mandioca, to reach School No. 436, one of the first that the Toms
team visited in 2006.
That visit, says school director Sergio Dario Gonzalez, "was a gift
from heaven." Typically, the only foreigners who come through
Misiones are en route to Iguazu Falls, one of the seven wonders of
the natural world, on the Argentine-Brazilian border. "They pass by
in cars and buses, some take photos of the school, and then leave,"
Gonzalez says. "But this was real interaction." After distributing the
shoes, some volunteers played basketball and soccer with the kids,
while others sang, danced, and played other games.
The fleet of motorcycles parked outside indicates the region's
improving fortunes--five years ago, most students came to school
either on horseback or on foot, but today, many of the landowners'
kids arrive by "moto." One of the most important, if unexpected,
functions of the shoe drops tugs in the opposite direction of that
richer-kid fleet: the erasure of a visible sign of income inequality.
"It was really great to have these students next to each other with
the same shoes--as equals," Gonzalez says. "The kid of the
tobacco farmer had the same shoes as a kid whose mom can't
always feed her kids. That was powerful. It was really a special
moment for the kids, especially for their self-esteem." Adds
Fabiana Ramos, a sixth-grade teacher: "At the time, it was really the
only shoe that many of these kids had." Though most pairs lasted
no more than three months, some of the students, she recalls,
"washed and dried them until they broke." Those shoes lasted six or
eight months.
About a four-and-a-half-hour drive south of Andresito, in the even
poorer municipality of San Pedro, Toms has given away more than
20,000 pairs of shoes since 2006. In a destitute San Pedro village
called Alacrin, where the population is entirely indigenous Guarani,
residents have become dependent on donations--not just shoes
but also clothes and school supplies. Toms's gifts were very
welcome. Alacrin's rudimentary one-room schoolhouse, cobbled
together from wood and scrap metal, bursts with chatty, smiling
kids of all ages, many of whom go barefoot even in winter.
"Mothers in need ask for two basic things for their kids: milk and
shoes," says Mirta Allgayer, a San Pedro civil servant who helped
coordinate visits by Toms in 2006, 2008, and 2010. "These are the
basics. Especially in families with seven, eight, nine children."
Toms's legacy in Misiones is measurable in smiles, tears, and
memories. Celia Romero, the head of School No. 341, which got a
shoe drop in 2006, was moved as she recalled the Toms visit. "It
was more than a gift," she says. "There are kids here who come to
school with their toes sticking out of their shoes. The families
came to watch and be part of it. It was very exciting. Everyone was
happy." Allgayer, who still gets choked up at her memories of the
shoe drops, says, "It was amazing to see the faces of these kids
when they see someone giving them a gift one time in their life.
The kids said, 'Someone is going to give me something?'"
But Toms's giveaways haven't been as transformative as the
company might have liked. Though much of Misiones has grown
rapidly in recent years, the improvement is mainly an outcome of
the generous, vote-stoking subsidies of Argentine president
Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner's populist government. Many of the
shoes Toms distributed at the seven Misiones schools that Fast
Company visited went to children who would not be considered
poor; according to Clara Alicira Hirschfeld, director of the 370student School No. 144 in San Pedro, all of her kids have always
had shoes. ("But it was so much fun," she says, "like a party.") And in
Misiones's poorest villages, like Alacrin, a shoe drop once every
two years can't keep kids shod for long. The region's soil--rocky,
red-stained, and prone to glooping into sole-sucking mud during
winter rains--is devastating to the alpargatas' already limited life
Like Toms, makers of everything from scrubs to doggie treats are seeking to burnish their
image by giving away their wares.
Click to enlarge
1. FIGS SCRUBS
For every set of scrubs sold, donates a set to a health care professional in
need.
1,500 sets donated in Kenya, Haiti, Ecuador, Honduras, Botswana, and
South Sudan.
2. TWO DEGREES
For every natural vegan health bar sold, donates one to a hungry child.
More than 820,000 meals donated in partnership with AOL, HP, and Cisco.
3. DOG FOR DOG
For every dog treat sold, donates a Dogsbar to a shelter in the country of
sale.
54,000 dogs gratified.
4. ONE WORLD FUTBOL
For every soccer ball sold, donates one to organizations working with
disadvantaged communities.
325,000 soccer balls distributed in 160 countries; pledge from sponsor
Chevrolet to donate 1.5 million balls by 2015.
5. BOBS BY SKECHERS
Donates a pair of shoes for every pair sold.
More than 4 million pairs donated in over 25 countries.
6. THE COMPANY STORE
For every comforter sold, donates one to a child in need.
16,735 comforters donated last year in 33 states.
7. WARBY PARKER
For every pair of glasses sold, gives a pair (or funding)to not-for-profit
Vision Spring, which sells them at subsidized prices and trains low-income
entrepreneurs to provide vision care.
250,000 pairs given.
JEFF CHU
Jeff Chu writes on international affairs, social issues, and
design for Fast Company. His first book, Does Jesus Really
Love Me?: A Gay Christian's Pilgrimage in Search of God in
America, was published by HarperCollins in April 2013.
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