Organic Cotton Yarn Quality

In the name of Allah, the
Compassionate, the Merciful
Study of Organic Cotton Yarn quality for various

Spinning techniques
By
Muhammad Qamar Tusief

Dr. Nabeel Amin
Nasir Mahmood
Rana Atique ur Rehman
ABSTRACT
The use of organic cotton in spinning industry is common these
days. Organic cotton is produced without using the agricultural chemicals
and fertilizers. Its spinning performance is good in industry. Organic cotton
has various end uses ranging from personal care items to home furnishings
and even with garments of all styles and kinds even for kids wear organic
cotton is the best recommended one. Siro spinning is a spinning method
which is being predicted to have profound impact on the yarn spinning
industry. In siro spinning the optimal adjustment and selection of various
variables is of utmost importance for the production of quality yarn.
Different mechanical variables like spindle speed, twist multiplier, and steel
ring diameter are all significant parameters for yarn evenness, imperfections,
hairiness and tensile properties. Thus the present study was planned to
appraise the quality parameters of siro spun and ring spun yarns under
different machine variables like spindle speed, twist multiplier and steel ring
diameter. All these variables put significant effect on ultimate yarn quality.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
NO.
TITLE
PAGE NO.
INTRODUCTION
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
11
MATERIAL AND METHODS
38
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
43
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
76
LITERATURE CITED
81
LIST OF TABLES
Sr.
No.
TITLE
Page
No.
Physical characteristics of organic cotton
39
II
Settings of different mechanical variables on spinning frame
40
Analysis of variance for yarn count
45
1a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn count
45
Analysis of variance for yarn lea strength
48
2a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn lea strength
48
Analysis of variance for yarn CLSP
51
3a
Comparison of individual treatment means for CLSP
51
Analysis of variance for single end strength (SES)
54
4a
Comparison of individual treatment means for single end strength
54
Analysis of variance for rupture per kilometer (RKM)
57
5a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn RKM
57
Analysis of variance for yarn elongation %
60
6a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn elongation %
60
Analysis of variance for yarn evenness %
63
7a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn evenness %
63
Analysis of variance for thick places/Km
66
8a
Comparison of individual treatment means for thick places/Km
66
Analysis of variance for thin places/Km
69
9a
Comparison of individual treatment means for thin places/Km
69
10
Analysis of variance for yarn neps/Km
72
10a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn neps/Km
72
11
Analysis of variance for yarn hairiness
75
11a
Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn hairiness
75
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED

TO
MY PARENTS
AND
MY FAMILY
Chapter No. 1
INTRODUCTION
The textile industry in Pakistan covers the biggest part of its present
industrial sector. The export of the textile articles like cotton yarns is
important factor to the economy of Pakistan .Due to this reason, competition
with foreign market has been the important task for the Pakistan textile
industry. Stress is being put on the line of quality and price control. Quality
and price of raw material are considered as very dominating factors which
affect the situation of textile industry. The significance of textile raw
material depends upon its kind, handing out, and end uses. Textile industry
in Pakistan is also using organic cotton as a raw material in these days.
Agricultural chemicals and fertilizers are not used in the production of
organic cotton. Infect the chemicals and pesticides which are used to
enhance the production of cotton are harmful for the human skin. The
production of organic cotton is not only avoiding of the pesticides, but it is a
full cultivating system, which requires a strong care for the crop. Organic
cotton production needs a very careful handling for best results. Industry has
found its performance good in processing. Organic cotton has many
advantages which covers the personal care items and home furnishings.
Organic cotton is also used in different type of garments; especially it is used
in making of garments for kids (Raja et al, 2010).
Sirospun yarns are produced on a conventional ring frame by feeding
two roving, drafted simultaneously, into the apron zone at a predetermined
separation. Emerging from the nip point of the front rollers, the two strands
are twisted together to form a two-ply structure. The process was invented
around 1975-76 by the laboratories of the Commonwealth Scientific
International Research Organization (CSIRO) division of textile industry in
Australia for the worsted industry. Cotton siro spinning research began in the
7
early eighties. The success, of cotton siro spun yarns would give weavers,
knitters, and designers additional choices (Cheng and Sun, 1998).
In consideration of a comparison between siro and ring spinning
system with respect to the yarn properties siro spun yarns are stronger, less
hairy, and more abrasion resistant than single yarns because of the strand
twist. Siro spun yarns are also more extensible than
single yarns at higher twist multipliers. Coarser Siro spun yarns are more
uniform and have fewer yarn imperfections. The number of thick places per
km of the single yarn is high than that of the Siro spun yarn,. The neps per
km of the single yarns and those of the Siro spun yarns are similar
approximately. For all linear densities, the siro spun yarn has the lowest
number of imperfections than the ring spun yarns. The Siro spun yarn has
fewer imperfections than the single yarn . At all twist multipliers, Siro spun
yarns are stronger than single yarns. Coarser Siro spun yarns are not
comparable to single yarns in evenness and imperfections, they gives the
better results but finer Sirospun yarn is less uniform and has more
imperfections than the coarser one. As the yarn becomes finer, Sirospun yarn
is more abrasion resistant than single yarns. The tenacity, hairiness, and
abrasion resistance of all yarn types are highly correlated with the twist
multiplier (Sun and Cheng, 2000).
In staple yarns, twist is essential to hold the fibres together and to
impart some degree of cohesiveness to the structure. Twist is a means by
which a bundle of fibres is held together so that the ultimate structure is
made capable of with standing the stresses and strains generated in the next
manufacturing steps. The role of twist in yarn is essential to manipulate the
yarn properties (Cheng and Yuen, 1997).
Spindle speed is one of the important factors which affect the yarn
properties, i.e., tensile strength, mass irregularity, imperfections and yarn
hairiness. With the increase in spindle speed, there is an increasing trend of
yarn tenacity. As the spindle speed increases, the randomization of the fibres
in the yarn gradually increases which causes better parallelization of fibres
along the axis in the yarn and hence increases the load shearing capacity of
the fibres. At higher spindle speed, packing coefficient is higher resulting
higher compactness. Higher the compactness of the yarn structure better is
the fibre migration within the yarn and hence higher is the interlocking
structure of fibres within the yarn (Chaudhuri, 2003).
Increasing the ring diameter to produce larger cops has its limitations
and disadvantages. The frictional drag of ring on the traveler increases with
the rotational speed of the traveler and with increased radius of the ring. The
frictional drag by a steel ring on a steel traveler during spinning will generate
heat at the ring traveler interface .With the small contact area between the
C shaped traveler and ring, heat can build up locally to higher
temperatures. Increased spindle speed and ring diameter, and there by
traveler speed, may then lead to a situation in which localized melting of the
traveler occurs, and traveler can no longer be effectively used for spinning
(Lawrence, 2003).
Our main object in this research is to make a comparison of quality
parameters between the siro spun and ring spun yarns made from organic
cotton under different machine variables like spindle speed, twist multiplier
and steel ring diameter.
10
Chapter No. 2
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
The importance of Review of literature lies in the fact that it highlights the
background knowledge about the problem to be solved. It provides further
orientation to the problem and eliminates the possibility of un-necessary
duplication of efforts. A lot of multi directional researches have been
conducted almost all in the foreign countries on the quality of the Siro spun
yarns but a comprehensive and composite study entitled Comparative study
of organic cotton yarn quality at siro and ring spinning systems under
different variables has not yet been undertaken systematically specially in
Pakistan. A brief review of the pertinent literature in the direction of the
present investigation is being reviewed and presented here under.
2.1 YARN CHARACTERISTICS
2.1.1 Yarn Count
Booth (1983) expressed that the count of yarn is a numerical
expression, which define its fineness.
Sharma et al. (1987) concluded that the actual yarn count increased
with increasing value of twist. The decrease in yarn diameter with increasing
twist showed that a lower value of twist produces yarn with a larger diameter
because of the loosely twisted and unmannered fibers, and it increased
further with the relaxation process because more reduction occurs.
Anjum (1999) observed a non-significant effect of different ring
diameters upon yarn count.
Rafi (2001) demonstrated that yarn strength was inversely
proportional to the yarn count, as the yarn number rises, yarn strength
decreased and vice versa.
11
Shahbaz et al. (2002) narrated that the twist multiplier had a

significant effect on the yarn number. As the twist increased the volume of
the yarn structure decreased.
Mahmood et al. (2003) narrated that the major effect on the yarn count
and yarn lea strength was due to twist multiplier, spindle speed and roving
factor. The high value of yarn count attained at high twist multiplier and low
value at low twist multiplier.
Mahmood et al. (2004) concluded that twist multipliers and spindle
speeds produced extremely significant effect upon the yarn count, whereas
traveler sizes produced non-significant effect upon yarn count. As the twist
multiplier increased the linear density (yarn count) is decreased.
Sarwar (2005) mentioned that the spindle speed and traveler shape had
not brought any significant change in actual yarn count spun.
Basal and Oxenham (2006) found that the yarn diameter was changed
by both twist and spinning system. As the twist level increased the yarn
diameter became smaller.
Ozguney et al. (2008) observed that as the twist multipliers of the
yarns increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and hairiness values
decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking
resistance values increased.
Ozguney et al. (2008) concluded that spinning production method had
a considerable effect on all the yarn characteristics. Unevenness, coefficient
of variation, neps, hairiness, thin and thick places and count variation values
are larger for ring yarn and less for other new like siro, compact yarn.
Whereas elongation at break, breaking force and tenacity values are lower
for ring yarns and higher for other yarns. As the yarn count increased, Um%,
CVm%, thin and thick places, and neps values increased, whereas count
deviation, breaking force and elongation at break (%) values decreased. As
12
any small difference in the thin & thick place will result significantly for fine
yarn, hence as the yarn count increases yarn irregularity will be more
apparent. As the amount of twist in the yarn increased, percentage of
unevenness, coefficient of variation, neps, count variation and hairiness
values decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and
breaking resistance values increased.
Mahmood et al. (2009) described that the significant distinction in the
mean values of yarn count because of dissimilar twist multipliers (T). A
minor deviation in real count gained with dissimilar twists, for the reason
that as twist enhanced yarn became more compact.
Nouby and Kamel (2011) demonstrated that twist multiplier play a
vital role to produce a change in yarn count. They stated here that as the
twist factor increased the reduction ratio of irregularity of yarns count
increased, in other words, the yarn count steadily transfer in the direction of
the finer side with mounting the twist.
2.1.2 Yarn Lea Strength (lbs)
Sreenivasan
and
Shankaranarayana
(1961)
narrated
that
the
relationship between twist multiplier and lea breaking strength followed the
usual pattern. Up to certain extant increase in the twist, the yarn lea strength
increased but with further increase in twist multiplier, attaining a maximum
value at a twist multiplier of about 5, produced a reduction in lea strength.
Ratnam et al. (1968) concluded that at lesser twists, the thin places in
yarn might have achieved high strength; whereas the thick places might not
have achieved high strength. Conversely, at greater twists, both, thick and
thin places would have attained high strength.
Lee et al. (1978) discussed that the twist had a prominent effect on the
yarn strength. As the twist multiplier increase from 3.00 to 3.60 the strength
improved 26% for the carded yarns and 15% for the combed yarns.
13
Simpson and Murray (1978) stated that the fibre characteristics

(strength, length, and fineness) had the utmost effect on yarn strength of
ring-spun yarns. They also stated that how the properties of yarn especially
skein strength was affected by using different twist multiplier and a variety
of blends of a high and low strength cotton plus blends of coarse and a fine
cotton. The development in yarn strength from the low- to high-strength
cotton is better for ring-spun yarn than open end yarn. The twist factor for
greatest yarn lea strength is a lot inferior for the ring than open-end yarns
because of superior fibres parallelization.
Qadir (1983) stated that the increase in amount of twist produced an
increase in yarn strength, and that this effect held up to a certain point,
beyond which further increase in twist caused the yarn to become weaker.
Sharma et al. (1987) stated that due to inter fiber friction with in the
yarn, the yarn lea strength increased with the increase in the yarn twist.
Oxtoby (1987) stated that the strength of yarn depends upon the fibre
strength, the frictional resistance to slippage and the effect of fibres
themselves being twisted about their own individual axes.
Pasha (1987) recorded that the spindle speed and traveler shapes had
imparted the significant effect upon yarn strength and also concluded that
with the increase of spindle speed the yarn lea strength decreased.
Nawaz et al. (1997) concluded that lea strength of yarn is significantly
affected by design, model, geometry and drafting system of ring spinning
frame.
Anjum (1999) concluded that yarn lea strength was significantly
affected with ring diameter.
14
Nadeem (2002) narrated that the effect of spindle speed was highly
significant upon yarn lea strength and yarn lea strength was increased with
the increase of spindle speed.
Ahmad et al. (2002) revealed that twist multiplier had very significant
effect on the yarn lea strength. As the twist increased the yarn lea strength
increased to maximum point then more increased in twist caused decreased
in yarn lea strength.
Shahbaz et al. (2002) narrated that the twist multiplier had a
significant effect on the yarn lea strength. Gradual increased in the yarn lea
strength is due to increased in the twist
Mahmood et al. (2004) stated that as the twist factor increased, the
yarn lea strength also increased but after a certain optimum level the further
increase in twist will cause fibre rupture and strength of yarn suddenly
decreased.
Palaniswamy and Mohamed (2005) concluded that when the amount
of twist given into the yarn increased up to certain level the strength of the
yarn also increased and we further continue to increase the twist in the yarn
it will then decreased the strength.
Ureyen and Kadoglu (2006) mentioned that the fibre properties such
as strength had the maximum effect on the yarn unevenness and greater fibre
strength guide to a improved yarn evenness value and additionally, fibres
might be prohibited from rupture owing to higher strength.
Goutianos et al. (2007) described that the frictional forces between the
fibres in the yarn increased as the twist increased, which consequence
increased in the yarn strength. Maximum yarn strength achieved at certain
twist level more increased of the twist consequence a decreased of the yarn
strength multiplier.
15
Yang et al. (2007) stated that low twist in single ring yarns were
desirable for their low residual torque, high bulk and softness, as well as
high spinning productivity. However, conventional low twist ring yarns had
very low strength and, thus, could not be used.
2.1.3. Count lea strength product (CLSP)
Booth (1983) reported that the count lea strength product value was
used to derive an index by which the spinning quality of cotton or spinning
quality/efficiency of particular system judged and also noted that as count of
yarn becomes finer the count strength product value falls.
Sharma et al. (1987) reported that single yarn breaking strength and
CLSP and elongation increased with twist level. The CV% of single yarn
strength and elongation decreased with increased twist factor, showing that
yarn evenness increased with twist
Smith (1991) narrated that the count strength product (CSP) value
depend on the three factors of fibres ( fibre strength, fineness and length).
Anjum (1999) concluded that count lea strength product value
decreased as the diameter of the ring increased.
Haider (2000) investigated that the spindle speed showed highly
significant effect on count lea Strength product values and CLSP value
decreased with increased in spindle speed.
Krifa et al. (2001) discussed that there exist several factors which had
an impact on yarn strength which depend upon both fibre quality parameters
and spinning conditions.
Ghosh et al. (2004) concluded that the end breaks were very sensitive
to the mean yarn strength, yarn strength variation, mean value of the peak
spinning tensions and the variation in irregularity of mass per unit length of
16
yarn. . Some technical feature had been taken in to account when the
breakage speed suddenly shouted up.
Palaniswamy and Mohamed (2005) expressed that as the amount of
twist put into the yarn increased, the strength of the yarn increased and as the
value of yarn lea strength increased count lea strength product (CLSP) of the
yarn also increased and vice versa.
Nawaz et al. (2006) described that reduction in the count lea strength
product occurred as the twist increased but further increase in twist produced
breakage in the yarn which reduced the count strength product
2.1.4. Single End Strength (gram)
Lawal et al. (2011) observed
spindle speed of 11000 rpm and this
was attributed to high tension and frequent yarn breakages arising from
decreasing strength of the yarn.
Ratnam et al. (1968) concluded that because of the different response
to twist of the two components of the blended yarn, about 50% of the
shortage in the optimum strength of the blended yarn observed.
Pillay (1971) stated that with the enlargement of count and spindle
speed the CV of single-yarn strength increased while it reduced with
increase of twist multiplier and spinning draft.
Smith and Waters (1985) described that the lower strength of yarn at
lesser twist was due to the fibre slippage; where as yarns of higher twist had
lesser strength because of increased fibre obliquity to the yarn axis.
Sharma et al. (1987) reported that with the raise of twist in the yarn,
there was significant increase in the yarn breaking strength. The coefficient
of variation of single yarn strength increased with twist representing better
yarn evenness.
17
Rehman (1994) mentioned a significant decrease in single yarn

strength with the increase in winding speed.
Cheng and Yuen (1997) concluded that the siro yarns depicted better
results than two fold yarns in respect of strength.
Cheng and Sun (1998) found that an increase in the twist multiplier
produced an upward displacement of the junction point. The strand angle
became greater and the strand length became shorter. As the strand angle
was greater, strand tension increased and hence the yarn became stronger.
Spinning performance of cotton Sirospun yarns was improved by higher
twists or longer fibers.
Anjum (1999) recorded non significant effect of ring size on single
end strength.
Lei (2003) found that the strength of each spun-like filament yarn
increased with the twist multiplier when it did not exceed the optimum twist
multiplier. Yarn properties were decresesed as the twist multiplier was
increased.
Chaudhuri (2003) showed that as spindle speed was amplified
randomization of fibers was progressively increased which was caused
improved parallelization of fibres along the axis in yarn and hence increased
the load shearing capacity of the fibres at higher Spindle speed, packing
coefficient was higher and compactness of yarn was greater .Higher was the
compactness of yarn better was migration of fibre within the yarn and hence
greater was the interlocking structure of the fibre in the yarn. As a result the
single end strength of yarn was increased with increase of spindle speed.
Palaniswamy and Mohamed (2005) concluded that as the twist level
amplified, the yarn strength also increased up to a certain level, beyond
which the increase in twist actually decreased the strength of staple yarn.
18
Grabowska et al. (2006) concluded that elongation calculated at

breaking point was depended upon yarn twist and expressed that when the
amount of twist increased the elongation value of yarn was increased.
Kumar (2007) concluded that the strength of yarn changed with
change in spindle speed, it gave a changing behaviour with different values
of spindle speeds.
Usta (2008) studied that spindle speed influence the significant effect
on yarn strength and further mentioned that yarn strength increased with
decreased spindle speed.
Gokarneshan et al. (2008) observed that a decline in yarn twist opened
the yarn structure and resulted in a gradual decline in yarn strength with
increasing twist elimination.
El-sayed (2009) concluded that with the increase in spindle speeds
there was no appreciable change in yarn tenacity it was also found that there
was a less change in tenacity in the range of 10000 to 17500 rpm.
2.1.5. Breaking length (g/tex)
Booth (1983) defines breaking length as the length of the specimen
which will just break under its own weight when hung vertically. He also
stated that the expression of strength in terms of breaking length is useful for
comparing single fibre strength with the yarn strength.
Hari et al. (1985) concluded that in the early phases, the grey yarn
tenacity increased quickly when the yarn twist multiplier increased but at
greater twist levels it is leveled off. The increase in breaking strength with
the enhancement in twist multiplier during early phases could be credited to
the increased in packing of fibres, which leads to higher inter-fibre friction.
Salhotra (1990) found that the use of finer roving or lower spinning
drafts was quite advantageous while spinning siro yarns, and yarn tenacity
19
was greater when finer yarns were spun on this system. The drop in tenacity
was caused by an increasing proportion of surface fibers as the conventional
single yarn became finer. Because the surface fibers contribute little to yarn
tenacity, there was a drop in finer yarns. In a siro yarn, this situation was not
applicable because even the surface fibers contribute to yarn tenacity as they
were effectively bound into the yarn body by interwrapping of strands.
Saeed (1993) recorded a significant decrease in yarn rupture per
kilometer at high winding speed during winding process.
Cheng and Sun (1998) found that by increasing the spindle speed the
tension of siro spun yarn was increased. With the increase of twist the
tenacity of the siro spun yarn was increased. The increased in the strand
tension would be dominant and the yarn could break
Anjum (1999) concluded that with the increase of ring size, the value
of RKM decreases.
Hassan (2002) inferred that rupture per kilometer value of yarn
decreased at high winding speed.
Ghosh et al. (2004) stated that the mechanism of end breakage in ring
spinning was a complex phenomenon, and was entirely different from the
yarn failure mechanism during a tensile test. The important factors in
governing end breaks were the mean yarn strength, yarn strength variation,
mean value of the peak spinning tensions and the variation of yarn mass
irregularity.
Inoue et al. (2006) found that organic cotton yarn had a rigid tensile
property in the initial region and had larger rigidity and hysteresis for the
torsional property than inorganic cotton yarns
Ozguney et al. (2008) resulted that as the twist multipliers of the yarn
increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and hairiness values decreased,
20
whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking resistance

values increased.
Mohammed
and
Veerasubramanian
(2009)
discussed
that
enhancement in roving twist multiplier caused increased in drafting force in

the break draft zone, resulting in appropriate elimination of fibre hooks and
extra straightening of fibres, which in order to increased yarn tenacity.
Ali (2010) described that at a definite point of twist, the strength of the
yarn achieved a highest value as twist is increased. Later on the strength is
reduced as the twist was increased still more.
Temel and Celik (2010) demonstrated that the influences of raw
materials and twist multiplier on the yarn physical properties were
established statistically considerable. Yarn tenacity and yarn elongation were
improved as the polyester ratio in the raw material was improved. Similarly
21
as the twist multiplier increased, yarn tenacity increased to a maximum and

then decreased.
Lawal et al (2011) observed that as the spindle speed increased, due to
high tension, the yarn breakage rate increases and the machine efficiency
gets affected therefore, the optimum spindle speed depends on the
mechanical condition of the machine and the nature of the raw material.
2.1.6. Elongation (%)
Subramaniam et al, (1989) concluded that the elongation was affected
by twist and spindle speed but not by strand spacing. Strand spacing, twist,
and spindle speed did not seem to have any influence on U%.A comparison
of the single yarn with the SDR (siro double rove) yarn showed that the
single yarn is inferior in strength, elongation, and U%.
Saeed (1993) concluded that yarn elongation increased with increasing
winding speed.
Wu and Lee (1995) found that elongation decreased with increasing
twist, also due to increasing frictional force and cohesion among filaments
and cotton fibers, while their inclination increased. Nevertheless elongation
did not increase significantly when yarn twist was more than about 650
TPM(TM = 3.0). Thus, twist of about 650 TPM was enough for spinning
19.7 tex T/C composite yarn and retaining strong tenacity and stable
elongation.
Anjum (1999) observed non significant effect of ring diameter on yarn
elongation.
Zhang et al. (2006) revealed that the breaking elongation of composite
yarns increased when the twist factor increased and also the CV% had a
tendency to increase where as the transformation of hairiness was not
important.
22

El-Sayed (2009) concluded that with the increase in spindle speeds
there was no appreciable change in yarn elongation.it was also found that
there was a less change in elongation in the range of 10000 to 17500 rpm
Temel and Celik (2010) demonstrated that the influences of raw
materials and twist multiplier on the yarn physical properties were
established statistically considerable. Yarn tenacity and yarn elongation were
improved as the polyester ratio in the raw material was improved. Similarly
as the twist multiplier increased, yarn tenacity increased to a maximum and
then decreased.
Lawal et al.(2011)observed that as spindle speed was
increased
during spinning, breaking extension was decreased.

2.1.7. Yarn Evenness (U %)
Sharma et al. (1987) observed that evenness increased with increase in
twist, and the most even yarns, as measured by the uniformity of diameter,
23
were produced when the diameter was minimum, However, Uster evenness
values (U%) of yarn were slightly higher for higher twist factor levels.
Yonghua and Yan (1990) reported that there were many aspects of
yarn quality, among them unevenness was very important because it was
closely correlated with fabric appearance and the processing performance.
results than ring spun yarns in respect of evenness.
Anjum (1999) concluded that yarn unevenness increases as the size of
ring increased.
Rasool (2000) suggested that yarn unevenness increased as the
Spindle speed increased.
Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that with gradual increase beyond 14 000
rpm of spindle speed, the mass irregularity of the yarn was gradually
increased. At the higher spindle speed, the drafting force became higher.
Ghosh et al. (2004) concluded that the end breaks were very
responsive to the mean yarn strength, yarn strength variation, mean value of
the peak spinning tensions and the variation in irregularity of mass per unit
length of yarn.
Strumillo et al. (2007) concluded that the quality of the spun yarn
could be significantly improved, while using equally raw material, by a
suitable selection of the spinning system and the type of the spinning
machine used.
Kumar (2007) concluded that the U% of yarn changed with change in
spindle speed; it gave an increasing behavior with different values of
increasing spindle speeds. The increased spindle speeds attributed the yarn
quality like strength and evenness showed a tendency to decrease with
increased in spindle speed.
24
Ozguney et al. (2008) observed that as the twist multipliers of the

yarns increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and hairiness values
decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking
resistance values increased.
Usta (2008) conclude that as the spindle speed of the ring machine
was increased the yarn irregularity was also increased.
CV%, thin and thick places, and neps values increased, whereas count
Lawal et al. (2011) observed that as spindle speed was increased
during spinning, the frictional force also increased, and this force tends to
straighten the fibres, so change in uniformity occurs.
2.1.8. Thick Places / km
Pillay (1971) narrated that generally a large number of thick places
generated with the privileged of counts and twist multipliers in different
cottons, while the other spinning factor, demonstrated no consistent
tendency.
25
Harrison and Bargeron (1986) concluded that neps were important in

determining the final product of cotton fabric. Fiber characteristics and
processing conditions were two factors that affected nep formation. Ginning
conditions such as over drying and over cleaning, card settings, and card
production rate affected neps potential. The card was the primary machine
that removed neps in the yarn manufacturing process.
Padmanabhan and Balasubramanian (1990) concluded that more than
75% of the imperfections were due to the presence of fiber clusters and fiber
clusters with foreign matter. But in combed yarns, both fiber clusters and
fiber clusters with fly seem to contribute to more than 85% of the thick
places. With regard to neps, on average, immature ovules and foreign matter
contributed to more than 75% of the total number in carded yarns. There was
a slightly different pattern in combed yarns, where neps due to foreign
matter were reduced by 20%, but neps due to immature ovules and fiber
clusters remained almost unaffected.
Saeed (1993) reported that thin and thick places increased as Spindle
speed increased.
Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that sirospun yarns were more
extensible than single yarns at higher twist multipliers. Coarser yarns were
stronger than two-plied yarns. Coarser Sirospun yarns were comparable to
two-plied yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Sirospun yarn was
less uniform and had more imperfections.
Frydrych and Matusiak (2002) found that one of the most important
problems of cotton yarn quality was thick pace. Thick placed create yarn
faults, as seen by the human eye, and too big a number of these negatively
influenced the aesthetic value of textiles, their smoothness, and surface
evenness. Yarn imperfection sources were neps and seed coat fragments
26
contained in ginned lint taken for production. Nevertheless, not all neps were
transferred into the yarn and were the reason for yarn faults.
Chaudhuri,( 2003) showed that with enhance of spindle speed the
imperfection was regularly amplified at higher spindle speed even drafting
took place , due to dragging out of sliver at the front roller nip imperfection
were greater.
Shad et al. (2004) demonstrated that the yarn imperfections (thin,
thick places and neps) and hairiness reduced with the increased twist
multiplier. With the mounting of twist factor, yarn neps per thousand meters
reduced.
Basal and Oxenham (2006) evaluated that the effect of twist on the
number of neps was found to be statistically considerable. This effect was
too uneven and the tendency was too uncertain to admit the existence of any
significant effect of these variables.
Kumar (2007) observed that at increased spindle speeds, yarn quality
attributed like thick places do not get high affected. Thin places showed a
tendency to increase with increased in spindle speed.
E.L Sayed (2009) concluded that yarn imperfections was minimum
at 10000 rpm of the ring frame spindle for the cotton variety under study ,
and the imperfections gradually increased with the increase in spindle speed .
27
Tyagi et al. (2010) stated that yarn structure, twist factor and
spindle speed were prime factors in controlling imperfections of woven
cotton fabrics.
Basu et al. (2010) concluded that the high-speed caused some
deterioration in yarn properties such as imperfections and hairiness. For
number of thick places the deterioration in mean values ranged between 6
percent and 24 percent for different yarn counts and for neps and hairiness it
ranged from 13 percent to 29 percent.
Lawal et al. (2011) observed that as the spindle speed increased, due
to the uneven distribution of fibres also due to frictional forces imperfections
were increased.
. 2.1.9. Thin Places / km
Harrison and Bargeron (1986) concluded that thins were more
important in determining the final product of cotton fabric. Fiber
characteristics and processing conditions were two factors that affected thin
places formation. Ginning conditions such as over drying and over cleaning,
card settings, and card production rate affected thin places potential.
places. With regard to imperfections on average, immature ovules and
28
foreign matter contributed to more than 75% of the total number in carded
yarns. There was a slightly different pattern in combed yarns, where thins
due to foreign matter were reduced by 20%, but imperfections due to
immature ovules and fiber clusters remained almost unaffected.
Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that siro spun yarns were more
stronger than single yarns. Coarser Sirospun yarns were comparable to single
yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Sirospun yarn was less
uniform and had more imperfections.
problems of cotton yarn quality was thin places.. Thin places create yarn
faults, as seen by the human eye, and too big a number of these negatively
influenced the aesthetic value of textiles, their smoothness, and surface
evenness. Yarn imperfection sources were neps and seed coat fragments
contained in ginned lint taken for production. Nevertheless, not all thins
were transferred into the yarn and were the reason for yarn faults.
were greater.
reduced.
29

E.L.Sayed (2009) concluded that yarn imperfections was minimum
cotton fabrics.
were increased.
30
. 2.1.10. Neps / km
Simpson and Fiori (1975) confirmed that when the twist was low, the
neps of the yarn after leaving the front roller nip might get themselves
slightly extended because of spinning tension. When the twist was high, it
flowed to the nip of the front roller at a quicker rate and the tendency for the
neps to get extended would be less and as such, the %U of the yarn might be
expected to be slightly greater at higher twist multipliers and further reported
that yarn uniformity decreased and imperfections increased as twist
increased.
Booth (1983) defined neps are yarn fault length of approximately the
fibre staple length having a cross-section of 50 percent increase over the
average value and imperfections as a yarn fault length of approximately the
fibre staple length having cross-section approximately 50 percent less then
average value.
places. With regard to neps, on average, immature ovules and foreign matter
contributed to more than 75% of the total number in carded yarns. There was
a slightly different pattern in combed yarns, where neps due to foreign
matter were reduced by 20%, but neps due to immature ovules and fiber
clusters remained almost unaffected.
Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that sirospun yarns were more
stronger than two-plied yarns. Coarser Sirospun yarns were comparable to
two-plied yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Sirospun yarn was
less uniform and had more imperfections.
31
problems of cotton yarn quality was neppiness. A nep was defined as a point
cluster of fibers introduced into the yarn causing the increase of its diameter.
Neps create yam faults, as seen by the human eye, and too big a number of
these negatively influenced the aesthetic value of textiles, their smoothness,
and surface evenness. Yarn nep sources were neps and seed coat fragments
contained in ginned lint taken for production. Nevertheless, not all neps were
transferred into the yarn and were the reason for yarn faults.
were greater.
reduced.
Ozguney et al. (2008) stated that as the twist multipliers of the yarns
increased, U%, CV%, neps, count variation and hairiness values decreased,
values increased.
E.L. Sayed (2009) concluded that yarn imperfections was minimum
32

cotton fabrics.
were increased.
2.1.11. Hairiness
Pillay (1964) stated that as yarn twist increased the hairiness of the
yarn decreased. The number of loops showed a steady decrease with the
33
increase in the twist but the protruding ends did not show systematic effect.
It fairly remained constant at all twist multipliers. The length of protruding
fiber ends and loops showed a gradual decrease with increase in twist.
Barella and Manich (1984) reported that yarn hairiness decreased with
an increase in twist. It was shown that the development of new hairiness
testers based on principles that considered only certain aspects of hairiness
could lead to contradictory results.
results than two fold yarns in respect of hairiness.
Nawaz et al. (1997) stated that the different models of ring frame
significantly affected the yarn hairiness.
Cheng and Sun (1998) found that with the increase of twist the
hairiness of the siro spun yarn was decreased.
Wang and Chang (1999) observed that if there were no reversing of
leading hairs at all by any rubbing surface on the hairiness meter, the
hairiness might actually increased as the test speed increased and the
hairiness index readings obtained in a single measurement followed a
lognormal distribution rather than a normal distribution. The yarns of three
twist levels used in this study were affected by test speed in a similar way.
The hairiness index at 400 m/min was significantly higher than that at 25 and
100 m/min, while the difference in hairiness index at 25 and 100 m/min,
respectively, was not statistically significant at the 5% level. The effect of
test speed on yarn hairiness appeared to be independent of yarn twist level
for the three yarns tested.
Anjum (1999) recorded a significant difference of ring diameter upon
yarn hairiness.
34
Wang and Chang (2003) resulted that the right diagonal yarn path
leads to reduced yarn hairiness, while yarn evenness and tenacity were not as
sensitive to the modified yarn path. The reduced yarn hairiness might be due
to the increased pre-twisting of fibers on the right-hand side of the spinning
triangle when the right diagonal yarn path was used. The pre-twisting
effectively bound the fibers into the bulk of the yarn structure, thus reducing
yarn hairiness. One drawback of this right diagonal yarn arrangement was
the increased spinning ends down, particularly at higher spindle speeds.
Chaudhuri (2003) showed that as spindle speed was increased there
was considerable change in yarn hairiness. With increase of spindle speed
the yarn hairiness also increased. This was due to more centrifugal forces
applied on yarn.
Voborova et al. (2004) it can bee seen that hairiness increased with
fineness if twist is much below the optimum twist. Graph for twist vs. total
hairiness showed a high negative correlation. With increase in twist,
hairiness decreased.
Lang et al. (2004) concluded that the effects of winding on yarn
hairiness were .determined by yarn structural characteristics such as the twist
factor and the embedded fiber length, and the winding conditions including
the pressure, exerted on the yarn and the winding tension. Second, for a
given set of the other three parameters above, there was an optimal twist
level at which the yarn gripping force on the fibers reached a maximum, just
like yarn strength, making it most difficult for fibers, to be pulled out.
Shad et al. (2004) demonstrated that the yarn hairiness and
imperfections (thin, thick places and neps) reduced with the increased twist
multiplier. With the mounting of twist multiplier, yarn hairiness reduced
considerably.
35
Basal and Oxenham (2006) as expected, hairiness decreased with

increasing twist level in both compact and conventional ring yarns. The
compact spinning system produced less hairy yarns. Tenacity increased with
twist up to the twist multiple 4.0 and then it decreased, and the elongation
showed the same tendency. The effect of interaction of twist and spinning
system was significant for only the hairiness and tenacity values. The
difference between the hairiness values of compact and conventional yarns
decreased as twist increased. The same tendency was present for the tenacity
values of these yarns up to twist multiple 4.0, where the difference was
almost zero, but then it became larger.
Kumar (2007) concluded that the hairiness of yarn changed with
change in spindle speed, it gave a changing behavior with different values of
spindle speeds.
Kretzschmar et al. (2007) observed that as the twist multiple of the
yarn increased, U percent, CV percent, neps, count variation and hairiness
values decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break and breaking
resistance values increased. When the yarn count and the twist multiple of
the yarn was increased, the coefficients of yarnneedle and yarnyarn
friction values also increased.
Ozguney et al. (2008) stated that as the twist multipliers of the yarns
increased, U%, CV%, neps, count variation and hairiness values decreased,
values increased.
Huo (2008) stated that siro spinning with the same count could
decrease the hairiness up to 22% compared with that of ring spinning.
Usta (2008) describe that with the increased in the spindle speed, the
hairiness of yarn was decreased. It is well known that the spinning triangle
after the top roller affects yarn hairiness. It was also concluded that as the
36
spinning triangle was larger higher was the hairiness and as the spinning
triangle was shorter yarn hairiness was also less.
E.L.Sayed (2009) concluded that there was a considerable change in
unevenness and hairiness of yarns with the increase in spindle speed. There
was a significant effect of unevenness with spindle speed. It was also found
that there was a small increase in hairiness index that was due to a high value
of centrifugal force acting on the yarn. Due to this protruding fibres were
more and hairiness was changed.
Lawal et al. (2011) observed that as the spindle speed was increased,
the hairiness of cotton yarns was also increased. This was due to the fact that
at higher spindle speed, the number of floating fibres increases and the fibres
tend to protrude from the body of the yarn there by contributing to the yarn
hairiness
37
Chapter No. 3
MATERIALS AND METHODS

The present research work entitled Comparative study of organic cotton
yarn quality at siro and ring spinning systems under different variables was
planned in the Department of Fibre and Textile Technology, University of
Agriculture Faisalabad and conducted at Gulistan Textile Mills Ltd., Lahore.
The complete description of the material used and the method applied for the
assessment of effects of machines, Spinning system, spindle speed ,twist
multiplier and ring diameter upon yarn quality are described below.
3.1 Materials Used
The samples of organic cotton were collected from the running stock
of the Gulistan Textile Mills Ltd., multan road lahore and tested for the
verification of their physical properties on ( HVI 900 SA).
3.2 Method
The raw cotton samples were conditioned in the standard atmosphere
before testing the physical characteristics. The instrument was calibrated
according to the method laid down in its instructional manual supplied by
M/S Zellweger Ltd. (1995). The procedure of testing is adopted as given in
ASTM Standards (2008a). The values of the physical properties are given in
Table 1.
38
TABLE. I. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF ORGANIC

COTTON
Sr. No.
Strength
Fineness
(mm)
gram/tex
(mic)
27.48
27.9
4.4
11.21
5.2
27.44
27.7
4.3
11.56
5.5
27.49
27.8
3.9
11.72
5.7
27.73
28.7
4.2
12.20
5.3
27.38
27.7
4.2
11.98
5.5
27.40
27.5
4.3
12.30
5.7
27.48
27.8
4.5
11.56
5.5
27.53
28.3
4.1
12.57
5.3
27.46
28.1
4.3
11.20
5.5
10
27.23
27.9
4.1
12.66
5.2
Mean
27.46
27.94
4.23
11.9
5.44
C.V %
0.01
0.11
0.03
0.25
0.03
S. D.
0.13
0.35
0.17
0.53
0.18
S.D. = Standard deviation
Short fibre
Trash
Length
content % Content %
C.V. = Co-efficient of variation
39
3.3 Processing at Ring Frame

The samples of raw material were processed in the blow room,
carding, drawing and roving section at standard machinery setting and
processing variables. For siro spinning purpose a double rove guide was
used. It was installed on the same spinning frame.
The yarn of 20S was made with roving of .8 hank, processed at ring
frame with siro spinning
system(Y2)and
system(Y1) and conventional spinning
their comparative study for the following mechanical
variables, Twist multiplier, (T1,T2 ,T3). Spindle speed (S1, S2, S3) and Ring
diameter (D1, D2, D3) was observed, as given in the table 2.
TABLE .II. SETTINGS OF DIFFERENT MECHANICAL
VARIABLES ON SPINNING FRAME.
Spinning
Spindle
Twist
Steel Ring
system
Speed(rpm)
Multiplier
Diameter(mm)
(Y)
(S)
(T)
(D)
Y1=Siro
spinning
S1= 8000
T1= 3.75
D1= 35
Y2=Ring
S2= 10000
T2= 4.00
D2= 38
spinning
S3= 12000
T3= 4.25
D3= 40
3.4 Yarn Characteristics

The yarn samples so prepared were tested for the following
characteristics at the standard laboratory conditions. i.e., R.H= 65+ 2 % and
Temp. = 20 + 2 C0.
40
3.4.1 Yarn Count

Yarn count was determined by "skein method" according to the
ASTM standards (2008) with the help of Uster Auto Sorter-III, which is a
direct reading instrument. A program was fed to the computer for the
determination of English count system (Ne), of 120 yards lea and the yarn
number was noted from its automatic display screen.
3.4.2 Yarn Lea Strength
Lea strength of yarn was determined in pounds according to the
ASTM standards (2008). A pendulum type lea strength-testing machine was
used to test the strength of the yarn which works on the principle of constant
rate of loading. This machine gives the direct reading for lea strength.
3.4.3 Count Lea Strength Product (CLSP)
Count lea strength product value was determined by multiplying
actual count value with the respective lea strength value of yarn according to
ASTM Standards (2008).
CLSP= yarn count Lea strength
3.4.4 Tensile Properties of Yarn
Tensile properties i.e. single end strength,RKM,and elongation were
observed with Uster Tensorapid-3 which works on the principle of constant
rate of extension (CRE). The principle describes the fact that the moving
clamps are displaced at constant velocity as a result of which the specimen
caught in between the stationary and moving clamps extended by a constant
rate. The breaking tenacity was measured from the maximum force which
was applied anywhere between the beginning of the test and the final rupture
of the specimen. The breaking elongation of yarn was measured from the
41
clamp displacement at the point of peak force. The procedure was adopted
according to the ASTM Standard (2008).
3.4.5 Yarn Evenness, Imperfections and Hairiness
Yarn evenness (U%) was determined by measuring the variation in
capacity occurring as the yarn passes through the condenser and recorded in
term of mean linear irregularity (U%) and the coefficient of variation in yarn
mass (CV%). The equipment employed was Uster Evenness Tester (UT-3),
which simultaneously measures imperfections viz., thin places, thick places
and neps per 1000 meter of yarn. The sensitivity setting for the
determination of imperfections were - 50 % for thin place, + 50 % for thick
place and + 200 % for neps. Yarn hairiness was also evaluated by Uster
Evenness Tester-3 according to ASTM standard method (2008).
3.5 Analysis of Data
Factorial Design was applied in the analysis of variance of data for
testing the differences among various quality characteristics as suggested by
Montgomery (2009) using Statistical package for social sciences (SPSS),
micro-computer statistical program.
42
Chapter No. 4
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
4.1 YARN CHARACTERISTICS
4.1.1 Yarn Count
The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn count for different spinning
system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in Table 1
which indicates that all the variables and their possible interactions have non
significant effect on yarn count while all the possible interactions have also
non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn count for different
spinning systems is given in Table 1a. All the values have non significant
difference among each other. The yarn count values for different spinning
system Y1 and Y2 are 20.11 and 20.10 respectively. These results show that
siro spun yarn and ring spun yarn have a non significant effect on yarn
count. These findings are in line with the observations of Lawrence (2003)
who described that in spinning yarn there was no direct relationship between
spinning techniques and yarn diameter, so it was not the practice to set the
spinning machine to produce a specified yarn diameter.
spindle speeds is given in Table 1a.All the values have non significant
difference among each other. The yarn count values for different spindle
speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 20.11, 20.11 and 20.13 respectively. These results
show that S1, S2 and S3 have non significant effect on yarn count. These
findings are in contact with the findings of Sarwar (2005) who mentioned
that the spindle speed had not brought any significant change in actual yarn
count spun.
43

twist multipliers is given in Table 1a.All the values have not significant
difference among each other. The yarn count values for twist multipliers T1,
T2 and T3 are 20.11, 20.11 and 20.11 respectively. These results show that
T1, T2 and T3 have no significant effect on yarn count. These findings are in
line with the conclusions of Shakir (2008) who found that twist multiplier
has a non significant effect on the yarn count in the spinning of yarn.
Ring diameters is given in Table 1a.All the values have non significant
difference among each other. The yarn count values for different ring
diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 20.11, 20.11 and 20.09 respectively. These
results show that D1, D2 and D3 have no significant effect on the yarn count
.These findings are in relation with the observations of Anjum (1999) who
depicted that different values of ring diameter gave a non significant effect
on the yarn count.
44
Table: 1. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Count

Source
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
SS
0.00474
0.03974
0.00854
0.00107
0.00474
0.00241
0.00241
0.02146
0.01874
0.01554
0.01688
0.00954
0.00454
0.03737
0.0400
MS
0.00237
237.0000
0.00214
0.00107
0.00370
0.00121
0.00121
0.00536
0.00900
0.00389
0.00422
0.00239
0.00114
0.00467
0.00516
Error
0.04170
0.00521
Total
61
0.26942
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
F
0.46
0.46
0.41
0.20
1.80
0.23
0.23
1.03
3.81
0.75
0.81
0.46
0.22
0.90
0.96
P
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S = Non-significant
Table: 1(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for

yarn
Count.
Spinning
Spindle
Means
Means
System
Speed
20.114
20.114
Y1
S1
a
a
Y2
20.106
a
S2
S3
20.114
a
20.131
a
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
T1
20.113
a
D1
20.119
a
T2
20.115
a
D2
20.113
a
T3
20.119
a
D3
20.097
a
Mean values having different letters do not differ significantly at 5% level of

significance.
45
4.1.2 Yarn Lea Strength (lbs)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn lea strength for different
spinning system,spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in
Table 2 which indicates that all the variables have highly significant effect
on yarn lea strength while all the possible interactions have non significant
effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn lea strength for
different spinning systems is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly
significant difference among each other. The lea strength values for different
spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 120.48 and 117.63 lbs respectively. These
results show that siro spun yarn has more lea strength value as compared to
that of ring spun yarn .These findings are in line with the observations of
Sun and cheng (2000) who concluded that siro spun yarn had greater lea
strength as compared to that of ring spun yarn.
different spindle speeds is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly
spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 121.62, 118.96 and 116.58 lbs respectively.
These results show that S1 has more lea strength value as compared to that of
S2 andS3 .These conclusions are in line with the findings of Subramanian et
al (1989) who found that greater tension developed at higher spindle speeds
might cause more fibre Slippage in a strand above the convergence point
which was responsible for detoriation in yarn strength.
different twist multipliers is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly
significant difference among each other. The lea strength values for twist
multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 116.75, 118.99
46
and 121.41 lbs respectively. These results show that T3 has more lea strength
value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These findings are in line with the
conclusions of Sharma et al (1987) who noted that strength of yarn increased
as twist increased, because of increasing the inter fibre friction. .The same
effect of the twist upon the lea strength studied by the Abbasi (1984) who
stated that lea strength of the yarn increased by increasing twist factor. Also
Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by increasing the twist multiplier, the value
of the yarn lea strength was also increased. Same like the above observations
Qadir (1983) found that the increase in amount of twist produced an increase
in yarn lea strength.
different Ring diameters is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly
Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 123.77, 118.87 and 114.52 lbs
respectively. These results show that at D1 yarn has more lea strength value
as compared to that of D2 andD3 .These findings are in contact with the
observations of Anjum (1999) who concluded that lea strength value
47
Table: 2. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Lea Strength

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
SS
109.75
228.95
195.47
770.04
0.367
1.89
0.67431
0.90
2.29
1.44039
0.27
1.71
0.4827
3.15
1.2927
3.19
61
1321.8671
** Highly Significant,
MS
109.751
114.476
97.734
385.022
0.3830
0.945
0.5187
0.225
0.573
0.7581
0.068
0.428
0.4389
0.394
0.7182
0.399
F
275.38
287.24
245.23
966.09
.96
2.37
1.3
0.56
1.44
1.9
0.17
1.07
1.1
0.99
1.8
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
Table: 2(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

Lea Strength (lbs)
Spinning
Spindle
Means
Means
System
Speed
120.48
121.62
Y1
S1
a
a
Y2
117.63
b
S2
S3
118.96
b
116.58
c
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
T1
116.75
c
D1
123.77
a
T2
118.99
b
D2
118.87
b
T3
121.41
a
D3
114.52
c
Mean values having different letters differ significantly at 5% level of

significance.
48
4.1.3 Count Lea Strength Product (Hanks)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn CLSP for different spinning
which indicates that all the variables have highly significant effect on yarn
CLSP while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn CLSP for different
spinning systems is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The CLSP values for different spinning system
Y1 and Y2 are 2437.6 and 2320.7 hanks respectively. These results show that
siro spun yarn has more CLSP value as compared to that of ring spun yarn
.These findings are in line with the observations of Sun and cheng (2000)
they concluded that siro spun yarn had greater CLSP as compared to that of
ring spun yarn.
spindle speeds is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The CLSP values for different spindle speeds
S1, S2 and S3 are 2396.9, 2378.4 and
2362.2 hanks respectively. These results show that S1 has more CLSP value
as compared to that of S2 andS3 .These conclusions are in line with the
observations of Iqbal (1992) and Abbasi (1994) who noted the highly
significant effect of spindle speed upon the strength of yarn.
Twist multipliers is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The CLSP values for twist multipliers T1, T2
and T3 are 2353.7, 2380.7 and 2403 hanks respectively. These results show
that T3 has more CLSP value as compared to that of T2 and T3 .These
findings are in line with the observations of Sharma et al (1987) who noted
that strength of yarn increased as twist increased, because of increasing the
49
inter fibre friction. The same effect of the twist upon the lea strength product
was studied by the Abbasi (1984) who stated that CLSP of the yarn
increased by increasing twist factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by
increasing the twist multiplier, the value of the yarn lea strength product was
also increased. Same like the above observations Qadir (1983) found that the
increase in amount of twist produced an increase in yarn count lea strength
product.
Ring diameters is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The CLSP value for different Ring diameters
D1, D2 and D3 are 2389.7, 2376.3 and 2340.7.7 hanks respectively. These
results show that D1 has more CLSP value as compared to that of D2 andD3
.These results are in contact with the observations of Anjum (1999) who
concluded that count lea strength product value decreased as the diameter of
the ring increased.
50
Table: 3. Analysis of Variance for Yarn CLSP

Source
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
SS
184685
10866
22020
57583
91.2
83
68.64
37
211.2
220.8
63
230.4
249.6
211.2
194.88
MS
184685
5433
11010
28791
45.6
41
34.32
9
52.8
55.2
16
57.6
31.2
26.4
48.72
Error
194
24
Total
61
277008.92
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
F
7614.4
224
453.94
1187.05
1.9
1.71
1.43
0.38
2.2
2.3
0.65
2.4
1.3
1.1
2.03
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
NS = Non-significant
Table:3(a)Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

CLSP (hanks)
Spinning
Spindle
Means
Means
Speed
System
2437.6
2396.9
Y1
S1
a
a
Y2
2320.7
b
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
T1
2353.7
c
D1
2389.7
c
S2
2378.4
b
T2
2380.7
b
D2
2376.3
b
S3
2362.2
c
T3
2403.1
a
D3
2340.7a

significance.
51
4.1.4 Single End Strength (grams)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn single end strength for
different spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is
shown in Table 4 which indicates that all the variables have highly
significant effect on yarn single end strength while all the possible
interactions have non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn single end strength for
significant difference among each other. The single end strength values for
different spinning systems Y1 and Y2 are 455.41 and 444.63 grams
respectively. These results show that siro spun yarn has more single end
strength value as compared to that of ring spun yarn .These findings are in
contact with the conclusions of Sun and cheng (2000) who concluded that
siro spun yarn had greater single end strength as compared to that of ring
spun yarn.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn single end strength
for different spindle speeds is given in Table 4a.All the values have highly
different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 459.72, 449.67 and 440.67 grams
respectively. These results show that S1 has more single end strength value
as compared to that of S2 and S3 .These results are in contact with the
observation of Iqbal (1992) and Abbasi (1994) who noted the highly
significant effect of spindle speed upon the single end strength of yarn.
for different twist multipliers is given in Table 4a.All the values have highly
twist multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 441.33, 449.78 and 458.94 grams
respectively. These results show that T3 has more single end strength value
52
as compared to that of T2 and T3 .These results are in relation with the

findings of Sharma et al (1987) who noted that strength of yarn increased as
twist increased, because of increasing the inter fibre friction. .The same
effect of the twist upon the single end strength was studied by the Abbasi
(1984) who stated that single end strength of the yarn increased by
increasing twist factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by increasing
the twist multiplier, the value of the single end strength was also increased.
Same like the above observations Qadir (1983) found that the increase in
amount of twist produced an increase in yarn single end strength.
for different Ring diameters is given in Table 4a.All the values have highly
different Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 467.83, 449.33 and 432.89 grams
respectively. These results show that D1 has more single end strength value
as compared to that of D2 andD3 .These findings are in line with the
observations of Anjum (1999) who concluded that single end strength value
53
Table: 4. Analysis of Variance for Yarn SES

Source
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
SS
1568.2
3271.4
2792.9
11002.7
8.1936
27.0
9.6161
12.9
32.7
6.441
3.9
24.4
20.54
45.0
13.1001
45.6
18884.5908
MS
1568.17
1635.69
1396.46
5501.35
6.828
13.50
7.397
3.21
8.19
9.673
0.97
6.11
10.81
5.63
13.087
5.69
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
F
275.39
287.24
245.23
966.09
1.2
2.37
1.3
0.56
1.44
1.7
0.17
1.07
1.9
0.99
2.3
** Highly Significant, NS = Non-significant

Yarn SES (grams)
Spinning
System
Means
Speed
Means
T.M
Y1
455.41 a
S1
459.72 a
Y2
444.63 b
S2
449.67 b
Means
Dia
Means
T1
441.33
c
D1
467.83 a
T2
449.78
b
D2
449.33 b
458.94 D3 432.89 c
a
significance.
S3
440.67 c
54
T3
4.1.5 Rupture per kilometer (grams/tex)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn rupture per kilometer for
different spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is
shown in Table 5 which indicates that all the variables have highly
significant effect on yarn rupture per kilometer while all the possible
interactions have non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn rupture per
kilometer for different spinning systems is given in Table 5a.All the values
have highly significant difference among each other. The rupture per
kilometer values for different spinning systems Y1 and Y2 are 15.436 and
15.009 grams/tex respectively. These results show that siro spun yarn has
more rupture per kilometer value as compared to that of ring spun yarn
.These conclusions are in relation with the observations of Sun and cheng
(2000) who concluded that siro spun yarn had greater rupture per kilometer
as compared to that of ring spun yarn.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn rupture per
kilometer for different spindle speeds is given in Table 5a.All the values
have highly significant difference among each other. The rupture per
kilometer values for different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 15.46, 15.221
and 14.97 grams/tex. respectively. These results show that S1 has more
rupture per kilometer value as compared to that of S2 andS3 .These findings
are in line with the observations of Iqbal (1992) and Abbasi (1994) who
noted that highly Significant effect of spindle speed upon the rupture per
kilometer of yarn.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn rupture per kilometer for
significant difference among each other. The rupture per kilometer value for
twist multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 14.896, 15.297 and 15.474 grams/tex
55
respectively. These results show that T3 has more rupture per kilometer value
as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These findings are in line with the
observations of Sharma et al (1987) who concluded that rupture per
kilometer of yarn increased as twist increased, because of increasing the inter
fibre friction. .The same effect of the twist upon the rupture per kilometer
was studied by the Abbasi (1984) who stated that rupture per kilometer of
the yarn increased by increasing twist factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995)
showed that by increasing the twist multiplier, the value of the rupture per
kilometer was also increased. Same like the above observations Qadir (1983)
found that the increase in amount of twist produced an increase in yarn
rupture per kilometer.
The individual comparison of mean values of rupture per kilometer for
significant difference among each other. The rupture per kilometer values for
different Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 15.464, 15.277 and 14.926 grams
respectively. These results show that D1 has more rupture per kilometer
value as compared to that of D2 andD3 .These results are in line with the
findings of Anjum (1999) who concluded that rupture per kilometer value
decreased as the diameter of the ring increasesd.
56
Table: 5. Analysis of Variance for Yarn RKM

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
SS
2.4576
2.1659
3.1541
2.6899
0.4833
0.01010
1.3394
0.0702
0.0788
0.3166
0.0400
0.1029
0.0047
0.0980
13.1001
45.6
71.7116
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
Table
5(a)
Comparison
of
MS
2.45760
1.08294
1.57704
1.34495
0.02301
0.01052
0.01205
0.01756
0.01969
0.0186
0.01010
0.02573
0.000723
0.01224
13.087
5.69
F
224.27
98.82
143.91
122.73
2.1
.96
1.1
1.60
1.80
1.7
0.91
2.35
.66
1.12
2.3
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.s
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
individual
treatment
means
for
RKM(g/tex)
Spinning Means
System
Spindle Means
Speed
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
Y1
15.436
a
S1
15.468
a
T1
14.896
c
D1
15.464
a
Y2
15.009
b
S2
15.221
b
T2
15.297
b
D2
15.277
b
S3
14.978
c
T3
15.474
a
D3
14.926
c

significance.
57
4.1.6 Yarn Elongation %

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn elongation for different
spinning system,spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in
on yarn elongation while all the possible interactions have non significant
effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn elongation for
significant difference among each other. The elongation value for different
spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 6.07 and 5.90 % respectively. These results
show that siro spun yarn has more elongation value as compared to that of
ring spun yarn .These findings are in contact with the observations of Sun
and cheng (2000) who concluded that siro spun yarn had greater elongation
as compared to that of ring spun yarn.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn elongation for different
difference among each other. The elongation values for different spindle
speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 6.08, 5.99 and 5.89 % respectively. These results
show that S1 has more elongation value as compared to that of S2 andS3
.These findings are in relation with the observations of Iqbal (1992) and
Abbasi (1994) they noted the highly Significant effect of spindle speed upon
the elongation of yarn. Similarly Subramanian et al,(1995) concluded that
The elongation was affected by spindle speed. The individual comparison of
mean values of yarn elongation for different twist multipliers is given in
Table 6a.All the values have highly significant difference among each other.
The elongation values for twist multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 5.86, 6.02 and
6.09 % respectively. These results show that T3 has more elongation value as
compared to that of T1 and T2 .These conclusions are in line with the
58
observations of Sharma et al (1987) who found that elongation of yarn

increased as twist increased, because of increasing the inter fibre friction.
.The same effect of the twist upon the elongation studied by the Abbasi
(1984) who stated that elongation of the yarn increased by increasing twist
factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by increasing the twist
multiplier, the value of the elongation was also increased. Same like the
above observations Qadir (1983) found that the increase in amount of twist
produced an increase in yarn elongation.
The individual comparison of mean values of elongation for different
difference among each other. The elongation value for different Ring
diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 6.08, 6.01 and 5.87 % respectively. These results
show that D1 has more elongation value as compared to that of D2 andD3
.These findings are in line with the conclusions of Anjum (1999) who found
that elongation value decreased as the diameter of the ring increased.
59
Table: 6. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Elongation %

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
SS
0.38093
0.33571
0.48888
0.41694
0.00205
0.00549
0.00244
0.01089
0.01221
0.00491
0.00621
0.01595
0.00749
0.01518
0.00674
0.01359
1.72561
MS
0.38093
0.16786
0.24444
0.20847
0.00187
0.00289
.002040
0.00272
0.00305
0.00289
0.00155
0.00399
0.00357
0.00190
0.01071
0.00170
F
224.27
98.82
143.91
122.73
1.1
1.9
1.2
1.60
1.80
1.7
0.91
2.35
2.1
1.12
.63
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
** Highly Significant, NS = Non-significant,

Yarn Elongation %
Spinning Means Spindle Means

System
Speed
Y1
Y2
6.0770
a
5.9090
b
S1
6.0899
a
S2
5.9923
b
S3
5.8968
c
T.M
Means
T1
5.8646
c
D1
6.0881
a
T2
6.0223
b
D2
6.0147
b
D3
5.8762
c
T3
6.0921
a
Ring
Dia
Means

significance.
60
4.3.7 Yarn Evenness (U%)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn evenness for different spinning
system, spindle speed, Twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in Table 7
evenness while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn evenness for
significant difference among each other. The evenness values for different
spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 9.04 and 9.78 % respectively. These results
show that siro spun yarn has less evenness value as compared to that of ring
spun yarn .These findings are in relation with the observations of Cheng and
Yuen (1997) who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than
single yarns in respect of strength, evenness and hairiness.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn evenness for different
difference among each other. The evenness value for different spindle speeds
S1, S2 and S3 are 9.30, 9.40 and 9.53 % respectively. These results show that
S3 has more evenness value as compared to that of S1 andS2 .These findings
are in contact with the conclusions of Kumar (2007) who found that the U%
of yarn changed with change in spindle speed, it gave a increasing behavior
with different values of increasing spindle speeds.Also Lawel E.L (2011)
observed that as spindle speed was increased during spinning, the frictional
force also increased, and this force tends to straighten the fibres , so change
in uniformity was
occurred.Same like above lines Chaudhuri, (2003)
showed that with gradual increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the
mass irregularity of the yarn was gradually increased. At the higher spindle
speed, the drafting force became higher and so U % changed.
61
The individual comparison of mean values of evenness for different

twist multipliers is given in Table 7a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The evenness values for twist multipliers T1, T2
and T3 are 9.63, 9.38 and 9.22% respectively. These results show that T3 has
less evenness value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These conclusions are
in line with the results of Ozguney et al. (2008) who resulted that as the twist
multiplier of the yarn increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and
hairiness values decreased.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn evenness for
significant difference among each other. The evenness values for different
Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 9.30, 9.48 and 9.54 %respectively. These
results show that D3 has more evenness value as compared to that of D1
andD2 .These findings are in relation with the observations of Anjum (1999)
who concluded that yarn unevenness increased as the size of ring increased.
Also Hussain(2008) found that ring dia gave a significant effect on yarn
evenness.
62
Table: 7. Analysis of Variance for Evenness

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
SS
7.4222
0.4927
1.5011
0.3260
0.0047
0.00877
0.0099
0.0224
0.0210
0.0188
0.0220
0.0031
0.02246
0.0648
0.00302
0.0312
9.97113
MS
7.42223
0.24635
0.75056
0.16302
0.00236
0.00585
00.0062
0.00936
0.00526
0.00858
0.00550
0.00078
0.00936
0.00811
0.00343
0.00390
F
1900.88
63.09
192.22
41.75
0.60
1.5
1.6
2.4
1.35
2.2
1.41
0.20
2.4
2.08
0.88
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0001**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S

Yarn Evenness %
Spinning
System
Means
Spindle
Speed
Means
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
Y1
9.0426 b
S1
9.3017 c
T1
9.6300 a
D1
9.3061 b
Y2
9.7841 a
S2
9.4033
b
T2
9.3856 b
D2
9.4878 a
S3
9.5350 a
T3
9.2244 c
D3
9.5461 c

significance.
63
4.3.8 Thick Places/Km

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn thick places for different
spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in
on yarn thick places while all the possible interactions have non significant
effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thick places for different
difference among each other. The thick places values for different spinning
system Y1 and Y2 are 28 and 37.74 per kilometer respectively. These results
show that siro spun yarn has less thick places value as compared to that of
ring spun yarn .These conclusions are in line with the results of Cheng and
Yuen (1997) who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than
single yarns in respect of evenness and imperfections similarly Sun and
Cheng (2000) concluded that Siro spun yarns were more extensible than
single yarns. Coarser Siro spun yarns were comparable to two-plied yarns in
evenness and imperfections, but finer Siro spun yarn was less uniform and
had more imperfections.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thick places for
significant difference among each other. The yarn thick places values for
different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 31.83, 32.66 and 34.11 per
kilometer respectively. These results show that S3 has more yarn thick places
value as compared to that of S1 andS2 .These findings are in contact with the
observations of Kumar (2007) who concluded that the imperfections of yarn
were changed with change in spindle speed, it gave an increasing behavior
with different values of increasing spindle speeds.. Chaudhuri, (2003)
showed that with gradual increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the
imperfections of the yarn was gradually increased.
64
The individual comparison of mean values of thick places for

significant difference among each other. The thick places values for twist
multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 33.16, 32.83 and 32.61 per kilometer
respectively. These results show that T3 has less thick places value as
compared to that of T1 and T2 .These findings are in line with the
conclusions of Simpson and Fiori (1975) who confirmed that when the twist
was low, the thick places of the yarn after leaving the front roller nip might
get themselves slightly extended because of spinning tension. When the twist
was high, it flowed to the nip of the front roller at a quicker rate and the
tendency for the thin places to get extended would be less.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thick places for
significant difference among each other. The thick places value for different
Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 31.83, 32.88 and 33.88 per kilometer
respectively. These results show that D3 has more thick places value as
compared to that of D1 and D2 .These findings are in relation with the
observations of Anjum (1999) who recorded significant effect of ring
diameter on thick places similarly Hussain (2008) also found a slight change
of thick places with change in ring diameter.
65
Table: 8. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Thick places

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
SS
MS
1280.91 1280.91
38.04
19.02
2.81
1.41
47.81
23.91
0.04
0.02
0.045
0.03
0.0882
0.042
0.07
0.02
0.07
0.02
0.0338
0.026
0.07
0.02
0.07
0.02
0.0722
0.038
0.15
0.02
0.0504
0.042
0.15
0.02
1370.4796
F
85849.0
1027.00
16.00
2617.00
1.00
1.5
2.1
1.00
1.00
1.3
1.00
1.00
1.9
1.00
2.1
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0016**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
Table: 8(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

Thick places (per kilometer)
Spinning
System
Means
Spindle
Speed
Means
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
Y1
28.000
b
S1
31.833
c
T1
33.167
a
D1
31.833
c
Y2
37.741
a
S2
32.667
b
T2
32.833
b
D2
32.889
b
S3
34.111
a
T3
32.611
c
D3
33.889
a

significance.
66
4.3.9 Thin Places/Km

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn thin places for different
spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in
on yarn thin places while all the possible interactions have non significant
effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thin places for
significant difference among each other. The thin places values for different
spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 3.00 and 13.85 per kilometer respectively.
These results show that siro spun yarn has less thin places value as compared
to that of ring spun yarn .These findings are in line with the observations of
Cheng and Yuen (1997)who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better
results than single yarns in respect of evenness and imperfections similarly
Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that Siro spun yarns were more extensible
than single yarns. . Coarser Siro spun yarns were comparable to two-plied
yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Siro spun yarn was less
uniform and had more imperfections.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thin places for
significant difference among each other. The yarn thin places values for
different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 6.83, 8.33 and 10.11 respectively.
These results show that S3 has more yarn thin places value as compared to
that of S1 andS2 .These conclusions are in contact with the findings of
Kumar (2007) who concluded that the imperfections of yarn were changed
with change in spindle speed, it gave a increasing behavior with different
values of increasing spindle speeds.. Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that with
67
gradual increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the imperfections of

the yarn was gradually increased.
The individual comparison of mean values of thin places for different twist
multipliers is given in Table 9a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The thin places values for twist multipliers T1,
T2 and T3 are 8.5, 8.40 and 8.27 per kilometer respectively. These results
show that T3 has less thin places value as compared to that of T1 and T2
.These findings are in relation with the conclusions of Simpson and Fiori
(1975) who confirmed that when the twist was low, the thin places of the
yarn after leaving the front roller nip might get themselves slightly extended
because of spinning tension. When the twist was high, it flowed to the nip of
the front roller at a quicker rate and the tendency for the thin places to get
extended would be less.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thin places for different
difference among each other. The thin places values for different Ring
diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 7.38, 8.44 and 9.44 per kilometer respectively.
These results show that D3 has more thin places value as compared to that of
D1 andD2 .These conclusions are in contact with the observations of Anjum
(1999) who recorded significant effect of ring diameter on thin places
similarly Hussain (2008) also found a slight change of thick places with
change in ring diameter.
68
Table: 9. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Thin places

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
SS
1589.80
38.04
0.59
96.93
0.04
0.0338
0.0392
0.07
0.07
0.0288
0.07
0.07
0.0648
0.15
0.0882
0.15
1726.2348
MS
1589.80
19.02
0.30
48.46
0.02
0.026
0.028
0.02
0.02
0.024
0.02
0.02
0.036
0.02
0.042
0.02
F
85849.0
1027.00
16.00
2617.00
1.00
1.3
1.4
1.00
1.00
1.2
1.00
1.00
1.8
1.00
2.1
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0016*
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S

Yarn Thin places (per kilometer)
System
Means
Spindle
Speed
Means
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
Y1
3.000 b
S1
6.833 c
T1
8.5000 a
D1
7.3889 c
Y2
13.852 a
S2
8.333 b
T2
8.5000 a
D2
8.4444
b
S3
10.111 a
T3
8.2778
b
D3
9.4444 a

significance.
69
4.3.10 Neps/Km
The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn neps for different spinning
neps while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn neps for different
difference among each other. The neps values for different spinning system
Y1 and Y2 are 33.00 and 41.81 per kilometer respectively. These results
show that siro spun yarn has less neps value as compared to that of ring spun
yarn .These findings are in line with the observations of Cheng and Yuen
(1997)who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than single
yarns in respect of evenness and imperfections similarly Sun and Cheng
(2000) concluded that Siro spun yarns were more extensible than single
yarns. . Coarser Siro spun yarns were comparable to two-plied yarns in
evenness and imperfections, but finer Siro spun yarn was less uniform and
had more imperfections.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn neps for different spindle
speeds is given in Table 10a.All the values have highly significant difference
among each other. The yarn neps values for different spindle speeds S1, S2
and S3 are 36.41, 37.16 and 38.61 per kilometer respectively. These results
show that S3 has more yarn neps value as compared to that of S1 andS2
.These conclusions are in contact with the observations of Kumar (2007)
who concluded that the imperfections of yarn were changed with change in
spindle speed, it gave a increasing behavior with different values of
increasing spindle speeds.. Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that with gradual
increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the imperfections of the yarn
was gradually increased.
70
The individual comparison of mean values of neps for different twist

multipliers is given in Table 10a.All the values have highly significant
difference among each other. The neps value for twist multipliers T1, T2 and
T3 are 37.77, 37.33 and 37.11 per kilometer respectively. These results show
that T3 has less neps value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These results are
in relation with the conclusions of Simpson and Fiori (1975) who confirmed
that when the twist was low, the neps of the yarn after leaving the front roller
nip might get themselves slightly extended because of spinning tension.
When the twist was high, it flowed to the nip of the front roller at a quicker
rate and the tendency for the neps to get extended would be less.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn neps for different
difference among each other. The neps values for different Ring diameters
D1, D2 and D3 are 36.38, 37.44 and 38.38 per kilometer respectively. These
results show that D3 has more neps value as compared to that of D1 andD2
.These findings are in line with the observations of of Anjum (1999) who
recorded significant effect of ring diameter on neps similarly Hussain (2008)
also found a significant effect on neps with change in ring diameter.
71
Table: 10. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Neps

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
SS
MS
1048.96 1048.96
36.04
18.02
4.15
2.07
43.81
21.91
0.04
0.02
0.1323
0.063
.0507
0.039
0.19
0.05
0.19
0.05
0.0588
0.042
0.19
0.05
0.19
0.05
0.1728
0.072
0.26
0.03
0.0363
0.033
0.26
0.03
1134.7309
F
32368.0
556.00
64.00
676.00
0.57
2.1
1.3
1.43
1.43
1.4
1.43
1.43
2.4
1.00
1.1
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S

Yarn Neps(per kilometer)
Spinning Means Spindle Means
System
Speed
Y1
Y2
33.000
b
41.815
a
S1
36.444
c
S2
37.167
b
S3
38.611
a
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
T1
37.778
a
T2
37.333
b
D2
T3
37.111
c
D3
D1
Means
36.389
c
37.444
b
38.389
a

significance.
72
4.3.11 Yarn Hairiness

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn hairiness for different spinning
hairiness while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn hairiness for different
difference among each other. The hairiness value for different spinning
system Y1 and Y2 are 4.98 and 5.75 respectively. These results show that siro
spun yarn has less hairiness value as compared to that of ring spun yarn
.These conclusions are in line with the observations of Cheng and Yuen
(1997) who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than ring
yarns in respect of hairiness.
The individual comparison of mean values of yarn hairiness for
significant difference among each other. The yarn hairiness values for
different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 5.25, 5.36 and 5.48 respectively.
These results show that S3 has more yarn hairiness value as compared to that
of S1 andS2 .These results are in contact with the findings of Kumar (2007)
who observed that increased spindle speeds, showed an increasing trend in
the value of yarn hairiness. Similarly Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that as
spindle speed was increased there was considerable change in yarn hairiness
was recorded. With increase of spindle speed the yarn hairness also
increased this was due to more centrifugal forces applied on yarn.
significant difference among each other. The hairiness value for twist
multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 5.49, 5.35 and 5.25 respectively. These results
73
show that T3 has less hairiness value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These
findings are in relation with the conclusions of Ozguney et al. (2008) who
stated that as the twist multipliers of the yarns increased, hairiness values
decreased, similarly according to the Kretzschmar et al. (2007) who
observed that as the twist multiple of the yarn increased, hairiness values
decreased.
significant difference among each other. The hairiness value for different
Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 5.24, 5.36 and 5.49 per kilometer
respectively. These results show that D3 has more hairiness value as
compared to that of D1 andD2 .These conclusions are in contact with the
observations of
Anjum (1999) who recorded significant effect of ring
diameter on hairiness of yarn similarly Hussain (2008) also found a

significant effect on hairiness with change in ring diameter.
74
Table: 11. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Hairiness

Source
Y
S
T
D
YS
YT
YD
ST
SD
TD
YST
YSD
YTD
STD
YSTD
Error
Total
DF
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
61
SS
MS
0.47188 0.23594
0.53311 0.26656
0.55018 0.27509
7.98107 7.98107
0.01001 0.00250
0.01381 0.00345
0.00058 0.00029
0.005932 0.002472
0.02421 0.01211
0.01054 0.00527
0.00164 0.00041
0.00178 0.00044
0.01894 0.00237
0.01264 0.00316
0.001483 0.001236
0.00823 0.00103
9.64604
** Highly Significant
F
229.25
259.00
267.29
7754.88
2.43
3.35
0.28
2.4
11.76
5.12
0.40
0.43
2.30
3.07
1.2
P
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
0.0000**
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
N.S
NS = Non-significant

Hairiness
Spinning
System
Means
Spindle
Speed
Means
T.M
Means
Ring
Dia
Means
Y1
4.9848
b
S1
5.2567
c
T1
5.4972
a
D1
5.2467
c
Y2
5.7537
a
S2
5.3656
b
T2
5.3556
b
D2
5.3672
b
S3
5.4856
a
T3
5.2550
c
D3
5.4939
a

significance.
75
Chapter No. 5
SUMMARY
The present research work regarding the Comparative study of
organic cotton yarn quality at Siro and Ring spinning systems under different
variables. was initiated in the Department of Fibre and Textile Technology,
University of Agriculture, Faisalabad and conducted at Gulistan Textile
mills,multan road Lahore. during the year 2011. Standard techniques were
applied for technological evaluation of the results. The results relating to
cotton fibre and yarn characteristics along with their statistical manipulation
are briefly summarized here under.
5.1 FIBRE CHARACTERISTICS
The organic cotton used in this research was tested for different yarn quality
characteristics. The range of value for fibre span length was found as 27.48
to 27.73 mm with a mean value of 27.46 mm. The value of fibre strength
was estimated as 27.92 to 28.81 gram per text having a mean value as 27.92
gram per tex. The range of fibre fineness was recorded as 3.90 to 4.40
microgram per inch with mean value of 4.23 microgram/inch. Similarly the
range of short fibre content was found as 11.21 to 12.57 with mean value
11.9. The range of values for trash content percentage was recorded as 5.2 to
5.7 percent with mean value of 5.44 percent.
5.2 Yarn Evaluation:
The spinning performance of organic cotton yarn of count 20
at Siro
spinning systems(Y1) and conventional ring spinning system(Y2)under

different variables like Spindle speed (S) with settings, S1=8000 rpm,
S2=10000 rpm, S3 =12000 rpm ,Twist multiplier (T) with settings T1=3.75,
T2=4.00 and T3=4.25, Ring diameter (D) with settings D1=35 mm, D2=38
mm and D3=40 mm was Studied.
76
The data regarding count values showed non significant effect for all
four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, , Ring
diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning were
ranged from 20.114 to 20.106.The values of count for different values of
spindle speeds were ranged from 20.11 to 20.13 and values recorded by
different twists ranged from 20.113 , to 20.119 and for ring dia results were
from 20.119 to 20.09.
The data regarding lea strength values showed significant effect for all
four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, , Ring
diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning were
ranged from 120.48lbs to 117.63lbs.The values of lea strength for different
values of spindle speeds were ranged from 121.62 lbs to 116.58lbs and
values recorded by different twists ranged from 116.75 lbs, to 121.41 lbs
and for ring dia results were from 114.52 lbs to 118.87 lbs.
The data regarding yarn count lea strength product values showed
significant effect for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system, Spindle speed,
Twist multiplier, Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro
and ring spinning ranged from 2437.6 hanks to 2320.7 hanks. The values of
yarn count lea strength product for different values of spindle speeds were
ranged from 2396.9 hanks to 2362.2 hanks and values recorded by different
twists ranged from 2353.7 hanks to 2403.1 hanks and for ring dia results
were from 2340.7 hanks to 2389.7 hanks
The data regarding yarn single end strength values showed significant
effect for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist
multiplier, , Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and
ring spinning ranged from 444.63 grams to 455.41 grams.The values of yarn
single end strength for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from
459.72 grams to 440.67 grams and values recorded
77
by different twists
ranged from 441.33 grams, to 458.90. and for ring dia results were from
432.89 grams to 467.83 grams.
The data regarding yarn rupture per kilometer values showed
significant effect for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed
,Twist multiplier, , Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro
and ring spinning ranged from 15.43 to 15 grams/tex..The values of yarn
rupture per kilometer for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from
15.46 grams/tex to 14.97 grams/tex and values recorded by different twists
ranged from 14.85 grams/tex, to 15.47 grams/tex. and for ring dia results
were from 14.92 to 15.46 gram/tex
The data regarding yarn elongation values showed significant effect
for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier,
, Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning
ranged from 6%to 5.9%. ..The values of yarn elongation for different values
of spindle speeds were ranged from 6.08 percent to 5.89 percent and values
recorded by different twists ranged from 5.8 percent, to 6.08 percent and for
ring dia results were from 5.87 percent to 6.08 percent
The data regarding yarn evenness values showed significant effect for
all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, ,
Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning
ranged from 9.78 Percent to 9.04 percent..The values of yarn evenness for
different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 9.30 percent to, 9.50
percent and values recorded by different twists ranged from 9.63%, to 9.22%
and for ring dia results were from 9.54 percent to 9.30 percent
The data regarding yarn thick places values showed significant effect
system ranged from 28 per kilometer to 37 per kilometer.The values of yarn
78
thick places for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 31 per
kilometer to 34 per kilometer and values recorded by different twists ranged
from 33 per kilometer to 32 per kilometer and for ring dia results were from
31 per kilometer to 33 per kilometer.
The data regarding yarn thin places values showed significant effect
ranged from 3.00 per kilometer to 13 per kilometer. .The values of yarn thin
places for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 6.83 per
kilometer to 10.11 per kilometer and values recorded by different twists
ranged from 8.5 per kilometer to 8.2 per kilometer and for ring dia results
were from 7.3 per kilometer to 9.4 per kilometer
The data regarding yarn neps values showed significant effect for all
four parameters i.e. Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, , Ring
diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning ranged
from 33 per kilometer to 41.81per kilometer. .The values of yarn neps for
different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 36.44 per kilometer to
37.11 per kilometer and values recorded by different twists ranged from 37.7
per kilometer to 37.11 per kilometer and for ring dia results were from
36.389 per kilometer to 38.389 per kilometer
The data regarding yarn hairiness values showed significant effect for
all four parameters i.e. spinning system, Spindle speed, Twist multiplier,
Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning
ranged from 4.98 to 5.75.
.The values of yarn hairiness for different values
of spindle speeds were ranged from 5.25
to 5.48 and values recorded by
different twists ranged from 5.49 to 5.25
and for ring dia results were from
5.24to 5.49
79
CONCLUSIONS
The results of this study revealed that
Siro spinning system is a better system for spinning , it gave best
results for yarn properties than the conventional ring spinning
system, especially in tensile properties and also it gave better
hairiness than conventional ring spinning.
Different spindle speeds, ring dia, twist multiplier and spinning
systems exert a significant impact upon most of the yarn parameters.
Tensile properties like (Lea strength, CLSP, Elongation, SES,
Rupture per kilometer) decreased with increase of spindle speed and
imperfections (thick, thin, neps) increased with increase of spindle
speeds.
Tensile properties like (Lea strength, CLSP, Elongation, SES,
Rupture per kilometer) increased with increase of twist multiplier
and decreased with increase of ring dia while imperfections (thick,
thins, neps) decreased with increase of twist and ring dia.
80
Chapter No. 6
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Organic Cotton Yarn Quality

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Organic Cotton Yarn Quality

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In the name of Allah, the

Compassionate, the Merciful

Study of Organic Cotton Yarn quality for various

Muhammad Qamar Tusief

MATERIAL AND METHODS

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

Physical characteristics of organic cotton

Settings of different mechanical variables on spinning frame

Analysis of variance for yarn count

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn count

Analysis of variance for yarn lea strength

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn lea strength

Analysis of variance for yarn CLSP

Comparison of individual treatment means for CLSP

Analysis of variance for single end strength (SES)

Comparison of individual treatment means for single end strength

Analysis of variance for rupture per kilometer (RKM)

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn RKM

Analysis of variance for yarn elongation %

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn elongation %

Analysis of variance for yarn evenness %

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn evenness %

Analysis of variance for thick places/Km

Comparison of individual treatment means for thick places/Km

Analysis of variance for thin places/Km

Comparison of individual treatment means for thin places/Km

Analysis of variance for yarn neps/Km

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn neps/Km

Analysis of variance for yarn hairiness

Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn hairiness

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED

Shahbaz et al. (2002) narrated that the twist multiplier had a

Simpson and Murray (1978) stated that the fibre characteristics

spindle speed of 11000 rpm and this

Rehman (1994) mentioned a significant decrease in single yarn

Grabowska et al. (2006) concluded that elongation calculated at

whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking resistance

enhancement in roving twist multiplier caused increased in drafting force in

as the twist multiplier increased, yarn tenacity increased to a maximum and

Ozguney et al. (2008) concluded that spinning production method had

during spinning, breaking extension was decreased.

Ozguney et al. (2008) observed that as the twist multipliers of the

Harrison and Bargeron (1986) concluded that neps were important in

Ozguney et al. (2008) concluded that spinning production method had

Ozguney et al. (2008) concluded that spinning production method had

Basal and Oxenham (2006) as expected, hairiness decreased with

MATERIALS AND METHODS

TABLE. I. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF ORGANIC

S.D. = Standard deviation

C.V. = Co-efficient of variation

3.3 Processing at Ring Frame

system(Y1) and conventional spinning

their comparative study for the following mechanical

3.4 Yarn Characteristics

3.4.1 Yarn Count

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn count for different

Table: 1. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Count

Table: 1(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for

Mean values having different letters do not differ significantly at 5% level of

4.1.2 Yarn Lea Strength (lbs)

Table: 2. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Lea Strength

Table: 2(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

Mean values having different letters differ significantly at 5% level of