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BOTTOM TENSION
Under normal circumstances the bottom tension does not change in use, so
once set correctly it should not have to be checked again. The need to adjust
the bottom tension therefore mainly applies only to second hand machines
you are not used to, or if the bobbin holder is changed for some reason.
The adjustment principle of the bottom tension is similar for all Singer
machines whether they use the vibrating shuttle boat type bobbin case (VS,
28, 128 etc.), the horizontally mounted removable bobbin case (15, 221,
222, 301) or the oscillating shuttle carrier with drop in bobbins (66, 99, 201
etc). In all cases the tension is provided by a small bent metal spring which
traps the thread between the body of the bobbin case/carrier and the spring.
The spring is slightly arched with a small adjusting screw that controls the
pressure of the spring on the body and thus how much pull is required for
the thread to slip between the two.
TOP TENSION
Once the bottom tension is set correctly, the top tension should provide a
sufficient adjustment band to cater for the full range of materials and threads
that may be used. If the lower tension is incorrectly set, then the machine
may still sew but the upper tension may have to be at an extreme setting to
compensate and this can cause tight or loose stitching, or thread breakage
under some conditions.
Early Singer models had a simple arrangement of a knurled nut pressing a
spring against 2 tension discs through which the upper thread passes.
Tension adjustment is then a simple trial and error process of adjusting this
nut so that a perfect lockstitch is formed. A fraction of a turn on the knurled
nut in either direction is all that is usually required to suit different
conditions.
Later models used an upgraded upper tension control that incorporated a
numbered dial into the adjustment nut. These should be calibrated so that
the machine produces a perfect lockstitch on 2 layers of medium weight
cotton fabric with the dial set between 4 and 5. If this is not the case then it
needs to be re-calibrated so that it does.
Fortunately this is a simple process that doesnt require any dismantling of
the assembly.
The first thing to do is run a test stitch using 2 medium thicknesses of fabric
to determine the correct position of the upper tension knob so that the
machine makes a correct stitch having the right balance of top and bottom
tension.
Then without turning the knob, use a thumb to push back firmly on the
numbered ring on the tension assembly so that it moves against its spring
away from the knob at the front and into its shroud.
If you look carefully in the gap between the two parts you will see there is a
series of 16 holes drilled around the front of the dial plate. You should also
see that at one point in the rear flange of the knob there is a small shiny
metal pin which projects out the back of the flange. When the dial plate is
released this pin engages into one of the holes and allows the dial plate and
knob to rotate as one. When releasing the dial plate it is necessary to check
that the pin does correctly enter one of the holes, and if not to move it
slightly until it does.
By turning the dial plate whilst it is pressed back, and then releasing it again,
it is possible to alter the relationship between the knob which controls the
tension and the dial which displays it. We are looking for a situation where
one full turn of the knob and dial provides a range of tensions from
maximum to minimum and so the basic default condition should be between
4 and 5. You therefore need to rotate the dial plate to this setting before
releasing it.
Finally, retest the machine. If necessary repeat the adjustment process until
it is right. It is not necessary to get it spot on because the default setting of
4-5 is only a starting point from which to work. However, in practice it is
unlikely to ever need anywhere near the extremes of the upper tension range
that the knob provides between its limits of 0 and 9.
Needlebar Height
If the height of the needle bar needs to be reset, then loosen both screws 'D'
in the needle bar clamp and adjust its position accordingly, before tightening
them again and then re-checking the gap. The range of adjustment is
approx. 1/32. If this range is not sufficient to ensure the correct setting,
then the needle bar cam and pin should be checked for wear, and if
necessary replaced.
Shuttle Clearances
The clearance between the shuttle and the raceway can be adjusted by
loosening the screw that connects the carrier to the belt crank. The clearance
between the end of the shuttle and the carrier spring can be adjusted by
slightly bending the carrier spring.
Shuttle Timing
It is important that the above checks are all made before checking shuttle
timing. The procedure for timing the shuttle varies depending upon whether
the machine has a timing mark in the shuttle raceway.
For machines without a timing mark: Turn the balance wheel towards you
until the needle reaches its lowest point and then rises 3/32. That is when
the gap between the bottom of the needle stop screw and the throat plate is
29/32. At this point the point of the shuttle should align with the centreline
of the needle.
Shuttle Timing
For machines with a timing mark: With the machine supported upside down,
turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle reaches its lowest point.
At this position the tip of the shuttle point should align with the timing mark
'M' in the shuttle raceway.
Timing Mark
Timing Adjustment
The main content for this article kindly submitted by Charles Day
Many of the Singer 400 series of domestic sewing machine (including models
413, 416, 418, 427, 457, 466, 477 and 478) were only intended for light
domestic use. Over-working these machines on heavy materials, such as
denim or leather, is quite liable to break the plastic vertical gear in the top of
the machine. This gear transfers the drive to the bobbin mechanism. This
type of breakage becomes even more likely as the plastic fatigues with age.
Fortunately, replacement of the gear is very easy. Provided the correct
procedure is followed, it should take no longer than 15-30 minutes.
Broken Gear
STEP 1 PREPARATION:
Remove the needle, needle plate and bobbin from the machine. It can be
easier later on if the bobbin case is also removed, but this is not essential. It
is released by lifting the black coloured bracket about " (6mm) and then
sliding it to the right. Next take off the needlebar cover at the left of the
machine and the plastic cover on the top arm by undoing its 2 screws so that
the top mechanism is exposed.
The next task is to remove the plastic plate which covers the controls area.
To do this unscrew the bobbin winder stop at the top right and then undo the
2 small screws at the bottom of the plate and the 1 at the top. Finally
remove the screw on the left side, but note that this screw has a spring
retainer inside the top of the machine. It will probably be necessary to stop it
turning to remove the screw, but in any case care should be taken not to
lose it inside the machine. Set the stitch length lever to zero to make
removing the plate easier.
To the left of the newly exposed area there is an aperture through which the
retaining setscrew for the vertical gear can be accessed. There is a small
removable panel at the bottom of the aperture held in by 2 screws. It is
much easier if this panel is removed, although it is not essential to do so.
Access Aperture
Carefully place the machine on its back and remove the base panel which is
held by a single nut. Remove the toothed belt tensioning cam (single central
screw) and take off the timing belt.
Removing Gear
Push the gear shaft upwards again so that it enters the bore of the gear,
making sure that the flat at the top is aligned approximately with the
setscrew in the gear. Tighten the setscrew whilst applying gentle pressure to
the bottom of the shaft to ensure there is no vertical free play in the shaft.
suitable belt tension which is not loose, but not too tight either. The long
length of the belt should deflect about " (12mm) if pressed in the middle.
STEP 4 RETIMING:
Whenever the timing belt has been removed it is necessary to retime the
machine so that the hook is in the correct relationship to the needle.
Before starting, make sure that on zigzag machines the needle is set to the
central straight stitching position. Double check this by inserting a needle
and temporarily replacing the stitch plate and lowering the needle to it. (Do
NOT pass the needle through it yet). If the needle is central to the hole in the
stitch plate then remove the plate again and continue.
Underneath the machine loosen the 2 setscrews holding the pulley onto the
bottom of the bobbin mechanism shaft so that it rotates freely. Working with
the machine on its back, hold the pulley still whilst turning the oscillating
hook with theother hand so that its hook is pointing to the back of the
machine.
Now gently turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle reaches its
lowest position. You will see the lower timing mark near the top of the
exposed part of the needlebar.
Continue rotating the balance wheel a few degrees until the lower timing
mark rises to be exactly flush with the bushing. At this point the point of
oscillating hook needs to be exactly aligned with the needle before tightening
both of the pulley setscrews under the machine. After tightening the pulley
setscrews check that nothing has moved by turning the balance wheel once
until the timing mark is again flush with the bushing and check that the hook
is just opposite the needle.
The main content for this article kindly submitted by Charles Day
Many of the Singer 400 series of domestic sewing machine (including models
413, 416, 418, 427, 457, 466, 477 and 478) were only intended for light
domestic use. Whenever any part of the drive train to the needlebar or
bobbin has been moved, or replaced, it is necessary to retime the hook so it
is in the correct relationship to the needle.
The needle bar has 2 timing marks which are used to set the needlebar
position and its relationship to the bobbin hook mechanism.
later on if the bobbin case is also removed, but this is not essential. It is
released by lifting the black coloured bracket about " (6mm) and then
sliding it to the right.
Before starting the timing process, make sure that on zigzag machines the
needle is set to the central straight stitching position. Double check this by
inserting a needle and temporarily replacing the stitch plate and lowering the
needle to it. (Do NOT pass the needle through it yet). If the needle is central
to the hole in the stitch plate then remove the plate again and continue.
Underneath the machine loosen the 2 setscrews holding the pulley onto the
bottom of the bobbin mechanism shaft so that it rotates freely. Working with
the machine on its back, hold the pulley still whilst turning the oscillating
hook with the other hand so that its hook is pointing to the back of the
machine.
Now gently turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle reaches its
lowest position. You will see the lower timing mark near the top of the
exposed part of the needlebar.
Timing Mark
Continue rotating the balance wheel a few degrees until the lower timing
mark rises to be exactly flush with the bushing. At this point the point of
oscillating hook needs to be exactly aligned with the needle before tightening
both of the pulley setscrews under the machine. After tightening the pulley
setscrews check that nothing has moved by turning the balance wheel once
until the timing mark is again flush with the bushing and check that the hook
is just opposite the needle.
All that is left now is to put the machine back together. Refit the bottom
cover onto the machine, the needle plate, the needlebar cover and finally the
plastic cover onto the top arm. Thread up and sew test the machine.