Cigarrette Pants

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Tutorial and pattern created by Sandy at the Cloud
Factory 2015

Thecloudfactory.blogspot.com

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A few things you need to know before

to start making your patterns:

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WAISTLINE is how we call

the top line of your pant, it
can be on your actual waist
or in your low waist, use the
contour you like.
BOTTOM LINE: is the base
line of the leg pieces of your
pant, for cigarrette pants it
can be on ur ankle, on your
calves or in any middle point
in between.
Here you can see the diferences so you can decide
what you like and use the
contour measurement of
that point when making your
patterns

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Tutorial and pattern created by Sandy at the Cloud Factory 2015

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If your fabric is not

stretch add 1 . 5 or
2 of loosing to every
measurement before
trace your patterns

Once you decided your waistline

and your bottom line, you have

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2 methods to get the crotch

depth:

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1. Sitting in a flat and firm surface, measure

from the waistline downwards reaching the
sitting surface, take this measurement with
a hard ruler, or keep the measuring tape
completely straigth when measuring.

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2. While standing, take measurement of your

inerleg A (from crotch point so bottom line),
and B (from waistline to bottom line), then:
B - A = crotch depth

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I highly recommend you to make these

patterns in

centimeters.

The measurements used in these patterns are not considering

the belt piece which we will trace apart

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1. CROTCH VERTICAL GUIDE: From point D upwards on the line, mark 1/12 hips contour,
from this point, square a line to the left until it reaches theline A - C and mark 1

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4a

* Trace the rectangle A B C D

where A - B is: (1/4 hips contour) - 1 cm
and B - D is: Crotch depth
( How to measure the crotch depth in the final page of this pattern)
Then do the following:

2 2. CROTCH EXTENSION: Extend the line C - D and from D to the rigth mark 1/16 hips
contour

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CENTRAL LINE.

Pant length = from waistline to bottom line (withouth consider belt piece

Front pattern part 1

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4b

3. WAIST POINT: from point B to the left mark (1/4 waist or low waist contour) - 1 cm ,
Then add 3 cm if you are considering waist, or 2 cm if you are considering low waist, for
the dart which we will trace it at the end.

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You decide if you want your pant on your actual waist or in low waist
Trace an angle line from the point 3 to 1
Divide the waistline ( B - 3 ) in half, and from this middle point square down to trace the
CENTRAL LINE.

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4. KNEE: in the center line, starting in the line A - B downwards, mark the knee length
(from waist or low waist to knee), and in this point trace an horizontal line with (1/2
knee or calf contour) - 1 cm ( 4a - 4b , half of this to every side of the center line)

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5. BOTTOM LINE: in the center line, starting in the line A - B downwards, mark the ankle
length (from waist or low waist to ankle), and in this point trace an horizontal line with
(1/2 ankle or calf contour) - 1 cm (5a - 5b, half of this to every side of the center line)

5a

Tutorial and pattern created by Sandy at the Cloud Factory 2015

5b

Trace lines from C and 2 downwards reaching the knee line and continue untill reach the
ankle line

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* f : from D point to the rigth on the segment D - 2, mark 0.5 cm, from this point,
square a line, upwards until reach 1 - 1 line level

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D

4a

i
4b

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CENTRAL LINE.

Front pattern part 2

* e : Divide the line 3 - 1 in half, and in this middle point, square to 0.5 cm out to the
left

* CROTCH BISECTOR GUIDE ( g ): from D point trace a bisected line, in this line mark:
1/32 hips contour.
Trace a line starting
How to bisect an angle (trace a bisected line):

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Set a square ruler resting in the angle you

want to bisect and use
the inner corner of your
ruler to mark this point
in your paper

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in the corner of your

angle, passing the
point we mark and
this line is the bisector :)

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* h : Divide the line 2 - 4b in 3 parts, and in the top 3th point square in 0.8 cm to the
left

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* i: Divide the line 2 - 4b in 3 parts, and in the two third way down point square in 0.7
cm to the left

Cut 2
pieces
5a

5b

Tutorial and pattern created by Sandy at the Cloud Factory 2015

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* Trace the contour of your front pattern join the points: B, 3, e, 1, C 4a, 5a, 5b, 4b, i,
h, 2, g, f, B , in ths order and curves where needed. DART: From the center line to the
left mark the width of your dart ( 2 cm if you are working with low waist, or 3 cm if
waist), divide this dart width in half and from this middle point square a line downwards
untill reach 1/3 of A - C. Then trace your dart considering these points, as shown.
Cut by the traced contour to get the pattern.

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k B

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1
C

The point where the central line join the line B - 3, we will call it: j

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f

4c

4a

4d
4b

Cut 2
pieces
5c

5a

5b

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* Divide the segment j - B in half, add 1 cm and mark the point k

CENTRAL LINE.

Back pattern

* Transfer your front pattern to another piece of paper, with all its lines and reference points, then, based on this we are going to make some adjustments to get our back
pattern:

5d

Tutorial and pattern created by Sandy at the Cloud Factory 2015

* From k to the left extend the line so that the segment k - L is: ( 1/4 waistline) + dart
width + 1 cm
Dart width: 3 cm if you are working with waist, or 2 cm if low waist.
* Extend the line C - 2 to the rigth and from the point 2 mark:
(1/16 hips contour) - 2 cm and mark m
* Extend the line 1 - 1 to the left 2 cm and mark n
* Extend the line 2 - C to the left 1 . 5 cm and mark o
* Extend the knee line ( 4a - 4b ) 1 cm to every side and mark 4c and 4d
* Extend the knee line ( 5a - 5b ) 1 cm to every side and mark 5c and 5d
* Divide the segment m - 4d in 3 parts, in the top 3th square in 0.8 cm and mark p, and
in the second 3th square in 0.8 cm and mark q
* Divide the segment L - n in half, in this middle point square out 0.5 cm and mark r
* From the point m downwards mark 1 cm (s)
* From the point 2 downwards mark 0.5 cm (t)
* Set a big enough square ruler touching the horizontal side in L and the vertical side in f
and trace an angle which gives you the point k
* Trace the contour of your pattern join the points: k, L, r, n, o, 4c, 5c, 5d, 4d, q, p, s,
t, g, f, k, whith curves where needed as shown.
* Divide k- L i half and trace the dart with this measurements:
Dart width: 3 cm if you are working with waist, or 2 cm if low waist.
Dart length: 13 cm

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X
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half of ( waistline contour + 10 cm )

be Belt piece
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Botom piece ri

Cut 1
piece

Cut 2
pieces

half of ( bottom line + 20 cm )

For more information about fabric calculation and how to use
the fabric go to my blog and select: sewing tips Tag

Tutorial and pattern created by Sandy at the Cloud Factory 2015

9 cm

7 cm

for detailed instructions and materials needed, watch the videotutorial of this pattern, the link is
in the first page of this pattern
or go to my youtube channel:
youtube.com/lafabricadenubes

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X
X Folded side of the fabric
X

Lengthwise grain of the fabric