PRINCETON,

N.

J.

Purchased by the Hammill Missionary Fund.

Division

2X7.0.

Section

.L88

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Digitized by the Internet Archive

in

2015

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THE GOVERNESS IN EGYPT.

HAEEM LIFE
IN

EGYPT AND CONSTANTINOPLE.

BY

emmelixe'lott,
FORMERLY GOVERNESS TO HIS HIGHNESS THE GRAND PACHA,
IBRAHIM, SON OF HIS HIGHNESS ISMAEL PACHA,

VICEROY OF EGYPT.

IN

TWO VOLUMES.
VOL

I.

LONDON
RICHARD BENTLEY,
publisher in

NEW BURLINGTON

(Dririirarg

to f?tr

glajcstg.

1865.

[The Right of Translation

is

Reserved.]

STREET,

DEDICATED
TO

HIS HIGHNESS ISMAEL

$c.

PACHA

8fc.

VICEROY OF EGYFT

BY
HIS

HIGHNESS'S

MOST HUMBLE

AND DEVOTED SERVANT

THE AUTHORESS.
October, 1865.

What

precious things I found in Oriental lands,

Returning home,

brought them in

my

votive hands."

PKEFACE.

Upwards

of a century has rolled

away

since

that graceful, unaffected, but perhaps too scru-

pulous epistolary writer, the accomplished and

"

charming Lady Mary Montague/' accompanied

her caro sposo, Mr.

to

Constantinople,

Ambassador

to the

Edward Wortley Montague,

when he was

appointed

Sublime Porte.

In the eighteenth century, that

Female Writers" published

" Princess of

an

in her Letters

account of her visits to some of the Harems

of the elite of the Turks of that period.

She had

Sovereign Prince

powerful

Empire,

no need to propitiate that

"

Baksheesh,"

who,

of

the

all-

Ottoman

whatever

may

be

PREFACE.

vi

his demerits as a statesman, stands forth, in

the present age, most prominently as the precursor of civilization in the Turkish dominions,

and

whom

for

prospect

a most brilliant future

in

is

Her rank

to obtain ingress therein.

and position were the Telecem, "talisman,"

which threw open

heavy ponderous

drew back the massive double-bolted

portals,

doors,

to her the

turned the weighty keys

are enormously large)

Hobbs-like wards,

such
outward

is

the

within

let

fly

mechanism

barriers

the

they

(for

their intricate

springs

secret

of the

formidable

which protect the huge gates

of those dragon-guarded palatial mansions

and gave her access

to those forbidden "

of Bliss" of the stolid, sensual,

Abodes

and indolent

Blue Beards of the East.

Nevertheless, her

handsome

train,

bassadress as she was, swept but

Lady Amacross the

splendid carpeted floors of those noble Saloons

of Audience,

all

of

which had been, as

is

in-

PREFACE.
custom,

variably the

vii
"

well

The

nished" for her reception.

those

Harems were
and

incognita,

through those
meteor,

all

slightest

gaudy

although
halls

was couleur de

opportunity was

study the daily

life

interior

of

Ladyship a terra

to her

even

swept and gar-

she

like a

rose,

passed

beautiful

and not the

permitted her to

of the Odalisques.

True,

she had witnessed the

" Strange fascination of Eastern gorgeousness, reverie, and

passion

;"

but yet, as she had not been allowed to penetrate

beyond the reception

halls,

nor to pollute

the floors of the chambers of those " Castles

of Indolence" with her defiling footsteps, the
social

manners, habits,

Creme de

la

Creme

and customs of the

of

both Turkish and

Egyptian noblesse, and the Star Chamber of

Ottoman
regions.

intrigue,

were to her

all

unexplored

PREFACE.

viii

It

was reserved

my

myself, in

to a

official

humble individual

like

capacity as Governess to

His Highness the Grand Pacha Ibrahim, the

infant son of H. H. Ismael Pacha, the Viceroy
of Egypt, the grandson of

Mahomet

Ali,

the

Eegenerator of Egypt, and the son of that

gallant warrior, the
to

become

annals

of

renowned Ibrahim Pacha,

the unheard-of
the

Turkish

instance

in

the

Empire, of residing

within those foci of intrigue, the Imperial and

Viceregal

thus
of,

Harems

of

Turkey and Egypt

an opportunity has

been afforded

and

me

Asmodeus-like, uplifting that impenetrable

veil,

to accomplish

(like that of

and successfully accomplished

gallant Captain Burton)

tions of Eastern travellers.

following
society

baffled

a European's pilgrimage to Mecca,

until so bravely

by the

which had hitherto

Work

is

to

The

disclose

all

the exer-

object of the
to

European

"Life in the Harems of Egypt and

Constantinople," which

cannot but be consi-

PREFACE.

ix

tiered as secret institutions for the corruption

of

women.

has been

It

concise yet impartial

of the daily
of the

life

my

aim

to

and sympathetic account

of the far-famed Odalisques

nineteenth century

those

mysterious

impersonifications of Eastern loveliness.

what success
task

is

left

to

have achieved this

the judgment of the

to determine.

London,

give a

October, 1865.

With
difficult

public

CONTENTS OF VOL.

CHAPTER

I.

I.

Instructions to proceed to Cairo H. H.'s

Journey by Railway Fellow-Travellers The
Tantah
Greek Merchant and Frankfort Jew Arrival
The Viceroy's private Despatches European Ladies A
Greek's Description of Harem Life Dr. Abbot's Museum
The Chief Eunuch Solyman Pacha the Magnificent His Innovations the Viceregal Family Jealousy of the Princess
of my Position Power of the Grand Eunuch.

Arrival at Alexandria

Partners

at

Difficulties

Page

CHAPTER
The

II.

Egypt Prince Baksheesh Intrigues of

Their Results H. H.'s Men of Business Ismael

actual Rulers of

the

Harem

Pacha, the Billionaire Merchant Prince

Dietary of the Vice-

Household The Atmosphere in the Harems Arab

Nurses Monotonous Life The Turkish Value of the Fair
Sex The Freedom enjoyed by the Turkish and Egyptian
Ladies of the Harem Opinion of the East as regards Women
Their true Value in Egypt Laxity of European Morals in
the East How Peris of the West are procured for the Blue
Beards of the East The Secret of the Aggrandizement of
Europeans in the Ottoman Dominions Effects of the Crimean
War upon the Levantines How Frankfort J e ws have become

regal

Millionaires in the

East A parvenue Merchant's Career

in

CONTENTS.

Xll

The All-powerful Ruler of Egypt Prince Baksheesh's

Autobiography of the Egyptian Rothschilds
Messrs. H.'s Career A Crimean Sulbr H.H. the Viceroy's
Associates in Commerce Mr. B. of Cairo Arrival at Cairo
Singular Incident at Zech's Hotel The AntiquaryHow
Europeans in Egypt work the Oracle Sale of a Mummy
The Italian Apothecary The Cairo Morgue The AntiEgypt

Influence

quary's FJight The Hotel Proprietor's Legacy The Small

Change current in Egypt The Circulating Medium in the
Harems Departure for Mr. B.'s
Page 23

CHAPTER
Arrival at Mr. B.'s

His

III.

Residence and Establishment

His

My Reception H. AttentionMy Remonstrance

Prisoner The
leaving the Hotel Virtually
Carte My Meals Cuisine a l'Arabe The Banker's OccupaAnother English Governess the Hotel Her Departure from Cairo Regain my Liberty A Scene from the
Balcony The Viceregal Glimpse
the Governess The ViceArab Mistress

H.'s

at

tions

at

at

Page 42

regal Cortege

CHAPTER
Introduction to Messrs. H.

Why

IV.

The Skeleton in the Viceregal Closet

Miss Indiscretion
Fears
the Prince should be
poisoned Stipend increased Monotonous Life Surveillance
My

spirited

away from Zech's

Duties as Governess

T.'s

lest

me Contemplated

Resignation Change of Diet

was passed at the Banker's Interview
with Mr. C. H. His Want of Courtesy I decline to enter
+
he Harem on a Sunday The old German Housekeeper.
Page 48

kept over

How

my Time

CHAPTER
The Schoolmaster Abroad

V.

The Maich of

Intellect in the East

Departure from the Banker's Cairo Across the Nile

Barge Arab Rowers The
Ghezire H.
Arrival
at

at

H.'s

CONTENTS.
Harem

The Grand Eunuch Character of the Eunuchs

Manner towards the Fair Sex
Subservience to

Stairs

Their

Xlll

Prince Baksheesh

Their

Contempt

for Christians

Dafay's

The Grand Eunuch's Duties The Seven Headings

of the Koran His Conduct towards me Their Anxiety
obtain Information The Princesses Baksheesh Prohibition
give Baksheesh The Prophet's Seventh Heaven Biickert
The Moslem Heavens The True
the German
Paradise The Ninth Heaven Where Infants are Flowers
of departed Friends Why Turks
Dogs
The
the Viceroy's Harem
Ghezire The Harem
The Exterior
Courtyard The Arabs, how employed there The Stone
Hall The Grand Staircase The Chief Eunuch An Opium
The Lady Superintendent of the Slaves The Slaves
E
how they obtain Riches Of what Nations composed How
old Age The Nurses Want of Furniture in the
cared
Apartments The Princesses' Wardrobe-room The Bed Repository The Princesses' Dressing-room The Mahogany
Cupboard The Curiosity Shop in the Harem H. H. the
Princess Epouse Her Appearance Costume H. H. the
Grand Pacha Ibrahim His Costume His Reception of the
Governess The Ladies of the Harem Their Costume
Jewellery The White Slaves My Private Installation into
History

to

to

Orientalist.

dislike

Spirits

of

at

ter

for in

Page 56

Office

CHAPTER
My

VI.

Tour of Inspection of the Apartments The Stone Halls

The Coffee-room
The German LaundryThe Reservoir
maid's Dormitory The Bath, when used The Bath Women
The Laundry Daily Life among the Slaves Washingdays H. H. the Grand Pacha's Suite of Apartments The

Prince not domiciled in the

when

Harem

Description of the

How the Princes confined therein occupied

Abolition of Mutes The Conduct of the Princes
released from their thraldom Dr. Abbott's Work on

Cage Cafess
their

Time

xiv

CONTENTS.

The Prince's State Apartments The Princesses'

The Governess's ChamberThe YouUsWant
of Furniture in the Harem Mahomet
Repudiation of
the Prophetic Prohibition against Portrait Paintinga
Turque Furnished Rooms H. H. Ismael Pacha's resemblance
Egypt

Dormitories

Ali's

la

to his

how

The Hall

Father Ibrahim Pasha

stitute of Furniture

regulated

An

of

Harem Bouquet

Audience

Turkish

DeTime,

Awkwardness of the Ladies of the Harem on

H. H. the Princess Epouse surrounded by her Suite

Position on the Divan The Cigarettes Economy the
Order of the Day Her Highness's Appearance on the Divan
Chairs

Her

H. H. the Grand Pacha My

Official Installation into Office.

Page 78

CHAPTER
Behaviour of the Slaves

Manner towards me
Astonishment at

my

The

Their

VII.

Ladies of the

Crinoline

Harem

Admiration of

Innovation

my

in the

Their

Dress
Dress of

Their Surprise at my Manner of Walking

The Turkish Mode of calling Domestics My Luncheon The
Soofra The Slaves' Surprise Zarfs of Coffee Cigarettes
Their Offer declined Breach of Turkish Etiquette How the
Prince amused himself A Benich, " Promenade " My New
Title The Attendants Costume A Greek H. H. Ibrahim's
Head Nurse Her Appearance Costume Company in my
Chamber My Room Its Inconveniences My Bed My
Orders A Walk through the Harem Gardens The Sheet
of Water Pagoda Pleasure BoatAquatic Birds Marble
Kiosk The Gardens Their Beauty and Picturesqueness
The Maze A Merry-go-round Waterworks Marble Statues
Colossal Figure of the Goddess Ceres The Four Cherubims
The Lower Basin Marble Paved Verandah The Swings
Their Shape Moved by MechanismBeautiful Hall
Turkish Ladies

How

H. H. the Viceroy's Pavilion

The ComEngland By whose Orders con

Elegant

Room

Why

the Princesses do not use the Gardens

parison with

those

fitted

of

up

XV

CONTENTS.
structed

Ibrahim Pacha The Lake How

supplied

Murray's
Descrip-

erroneous Impression respecting the Viceregal Palaces

tion of

H. H.'s Pavilion The Beauty of the

Rooms Their

Ele-

The SaloonThe Small Drawing-roomThe Dining-room

How curiously furnished Stuffed AnimalsThe Menagerie
The Grand Pacha frightened Collection of Animals Moved by
Mechanism The Den of Wild Beasts Ibrahim Pachas Dispo His Object in selecting these Animals His Mania for
making Money The Bed Chambers How Furnished The Bed

gance

sition

DivanToilet Table Ebony CabinetJewel Casket Stove

The Gardens How Irrigated Cuttings Nile WaterDykes
Bridge of Planks The Barracks How arranged Soldiers' and
Windowless

The Tatterdemalions
employed Their Rations
The Turkish Sentinels' Refrain
Crude Vegetables
H. H.'s
Sugar Refinery Quantity annually produced How clarified
The Black Diamonds
Page 96

Officers'

Turkish

Quarters

Men

all

never undress

How

CHAPTER

VIII.

of the Harem's Room Her Highness's Staff of

His Highness the Grand Pacha Ibrahim at Supper
The Carte Specimens of Cuisine a l'Arabe The Pastry
The Desert The Beverages How the Head Nurse helps the

be

Ladies

Slaves

Prince

at

his

Meals

The

little

Princesses

at

Supper

What becomes of the Bread that falls upon the Floor Bread
Balls
How made The Slaves' Diet Arab Bread Short
Commons No Bread in the Harem The Slaves understand
Purloining Washing of Hands after Supper The Substitute for

Appearance of the Tray after Meals The Nurses at

SupperWhat becomes of the Remnants or Scraps No separate
Table
the Slaves The Scene in the Reception Hall
Occupants H. H.'s Bed
Supper The Viceregal Nursery and
The Little Princesses' Beds The Prince in his Night Attire
Ceremony observedHow put to Sleep Occupation of H. H.
the Princess Epouse, his MotherEmployment of the Nurses
Towels

after

for

its

XVI

CONTENTS.

Hour of Retirement Immense Musquito Curtain H(

arranged The Governess
Supper Her Companion
El
Carte Beverages Eetires to her Chamber BedEeflectio
-E
Neglect How
upon my Position Messrs. H. and Mr.
at

B.'s

could have been supplied with European Diet and

niences

Behaviour of H. H. the Viceroy's (Civil)

Com;
Aide-de-Can
all

Gard
.

The Prussians' Dislike the EnglishA Substitute

Linen No Slave appointed
attend upon me Locked in
Night A Prisoner within the Harem Walls The Fastening
the Gates The Realities of my Position Solitude
a Crowd
A Dilemma No ChairNo Table My Substitutes How
commenced my Incidents of Harem Life
.... Page

for B>

to

to

in

CHAPTER

IX.

Menial Offices required of me My Refusal H. H. the Princes

Arrangement Domestic Life in the Harem Hours of Rising
Unlocking of the Gates Slaves and Ladies of the Harem

Early Risers

No

hold Arrangements

E;

Change of Dress Bed Storeroom Hous

H. H. the Grand Pacha's Morning Toil

Marks on his Legs Mode of washing the Prince Substitu

for Towels His Habiliments The Cords and Charms attach
^
Person Their Uses The Silver Box
to
Contents
Cypress Box
Contents The Pieces of Mahomet's
Head Washing Ornament in
Fez Antidote against
Charm against the Evil Eye The large Turquoise
UseThe Symmets Their Distribution The Prince's Vagaries
Silver Brazier
Contents and Use The Kitchen Whe
situated The Meals, how brought to the Harem Where
The Enunchs' Cry, " Dustoor, Dustoor Flight oft]
Women Reward of their Curiosity The Purloining Slav<
his

Its

Coffin-

Its

Fits-

his

Its

T.

Its

plac<

"

Attention to the Governess No Baksheesh given them by

The

t'.

Breakfast The Carte The Behaviour of

Viceregal Children H. H. the Grand Pacha dislikes PigeonsAn Egyptian Salad The Governess's Breakfast The Scarcity
Butter and Eggs The Prince's Morning Visit to the Three Wiv
Governess

t'.

CONTENTS.

The

First Wife's

xvii

Appearance The Chamber Her Toilette

How the Grand Pacha saluted herThe Second Wife

H. H. the Princess Epouse's Chamber The Third Wife The
Baksheesh A Walk in the
Prince takes Coffee H. H. asks
Gardens H. H. orders a Bouquet His Displeasure Instance
but Arab Garof his Cruelty The Poor " not frozen"
deners Their Punishment The Eunuchs' Task H. H. in a
Page The Fate of the Bouquet A True Descendant of the
Ibrahim Pacha Their Highnesses en grande
The GoverPlay
Mistake The Barber The Viceroy The Prince
" The
Heart wrapt in an Infant's Breast "The Grand
Her Dress

for

out,

Toilette

at

ness's

Tiger's

The poor
Female Slave
The Injured meets with no Sympathy The Mistress of the Harem Her Appearance Costume
Duties Inquisitiveness Her Examination of the Governess's
Wardrobe Every Article swept away H. H. the Princess
Pacha's Cruelty and Barbarity

little

His Mother's Ideas of Justice

Epouse's Admiration of European Costume

Luncheon

CHAPTEE
he

Governess

in the

Page 145

Stone Hall

at

Her Punishment

Supper

The

Mode

of

X.

Slave breaks some China

Branding

the

Slaves

Their

Written Characters The Viceregal Brand The Private Turk's

Brand H. H. the Grand Pacha's Wet Nurse Her Appearance
Costume Jewels I visit the Ladies of the Harem's Chamber

Their Attention Cigarettes Their Pastime How Turkish

Marriages are arranged Rhoda's Story
Reschid's Marriage
of

The Bridegroom
The Bride's Photograph
the Jewess The Preparations The Pre-

The Bride catches a Glimpse

of the Bridegroom

bribes a Jewess to visit his Betrothed

as daguerreotyped

by

Bath-room " Turkish Punch," Karakroz The Festivities

The Bridal Day The Bridegroom's Entrance into the Harem
The Mother of the Harem The Bridegroom's Generosity
Her Avariciousness baffled Her Exit from the Nuptial Chamber
The Veil withdrawn The Disappointment The Moonlight
sents

VOL. L

CONTENTS.

xviii

Scene from the Governess's Chamber

The Procession of the

Viceroy The Kevelry

Drums
the

in

Slaves, Eunuchs,

The

beating of Muffled

" Ikbal " in the Pavilion

the Gardens

How

H. H.

the Black

and muffled Figures amuse themselves

at

Night

Influence of Prince Baksheesh Supplies furnished the Inmates

of the Harem Of what they
Their annual Value
consist

Monthly Cost of Jewels Amount of Baksheesh annually dispensed by their Highnesses Household Expenses Cost of the
Maintenance of the Viceregal Harem Its Census The Purveyors Their Profit How realized
Page 166

CHAPTER

XI.

Departure for H. H. the Viceroy's Yacht

The

Grand Pacha's

The Little Turkish GeneralThe Uniform

The Prince's Leave-taking Embarking on Board the Tender
Visiting

Costume

The Fairy How fitted up The W. C. a la Turque The Viceroy's Yacht

The Viceregal Barge The Band The Audience
Saloon Its Fittings The Dining Saloon How arranged
Pictures of Birds and Beasts
The Poop Deck The Viceregal
Bed-chamber The Cabinet Its Contents The Red Book
The Prince's Curiosity A List of Prince Baksheesh's reputed
Pensioners A Tempting Offer The Ivory Box Its Contents
The Grand Pacha's Pastime The Tchiboukdji His Office Influence
How he gains his Information The illustrious Banker
The Tchiboukdji's Character The Grand Saloon H. H. the
Viceroy Ismael Pacha The Governess's Discomfiture Viceregal
Politeness
The Prince asks for Baksheesh What becomes of
An Excursion up the Nile The Island of Rhoda The
it
Nilometer The Gardens Their Description H. H. Ibrahim
Pacha Antilla Palms Exotics Fruit Trees Kiosk Leave of
Absence Difficulty to procure Locomotion Visit to Mr. B.'s
The Difficulties of my Position No System of Education can
be carried out The Obstacles H. H. the Princess Epouse's
Interference
Irregularity in the Harem
The Grand Pacha
Educational Training abandoned The Reason
rules Supreme

xix

CONTEXTS.

Substitutes for Furniture Nau My daily FoodMy Exposure to the Sun

The Temperature State of the Atmosphere in the Harem HowImpregnated Effects of Harem Life upon my Spirits Its
Monotony Loss of Energy Ennui Melancholy Madness.
My Want

of Conveniences

seousness of Diet

Page 185

CHAPTER

XII.

me Daily Regimen The Conduct of a

Lady of the Harem Its Indelicacy Arab Nurses Their Hatred
The Cause How treated by the Viceregal Family The Order
Their Dislike My Companions
of Precedence The," Ikbals"

State of Society about

Their AppearanceTom Moore's

His Beauties a Myth When ejected
from the HaremDark Deeds " Malesch
Signification
White Slaves Their Appearance Reflections in a Mirror
Black Slaves Their Photographs Their Occupations Pose
Plastique The Ethiopians, Nubians, and Abyssinians The
Bedlam The Poets Myth-like Elysium Circumspection necessary My Line of Conduct Their Highnesses' Jealousy The
Favourites The Viceroy's Attention A Nubian's Revengt
The Fate of Ismael Pacha The Viceroy's Uncle A Dark Deed
Sudden Disappearance Instructions received from H. H.'s
reputed Partners My Critical Position The Head Nurse
Poisoned Apple The Blush A Tempting Offer declined
Poisoned Dates The Governess's Tact Her Reward How
treated by the Viceregal Family Change in the conduct of the
Inmates of the Harem Prince Baksheesh
a Discount Mr.
C. H.'s Opinion of the English A Prussian's Estimate of an
English Lady's Requirements His Antecedents First Step on
the Ladder of Fortune His Opinion of English
His
Daguerreotype of the Viceroy H. H. the Princess Epouse's
Kindness The Viceroy's Presents The Hekim Bachas H. H.
Ismael Pacha's Orders The Viceregal's reputed Associates stop
the Machinery The First Spoke in my Wheel What
get
H. H.'s Consideration Another Importation from Frankfort

The

Ladies of the

Harem

Erroneous Impressions

all

"

Its

at

Officers

XX

CONTENTS.

The German Laundry-maid's Application I decline to interfere

The German's Contract The Value of a Governess in the Eyes
of the Frankfortonians
Sinecure Office of the Germans Their

decline ask Favours Visit to

the Harem of the
Viceroy Said Pacha The Palace Gardens
Kiosks Mahomet AliHis PortraitWhere placed Gasj
Lamps H. H. Widow of the Said Pacha My Eeception The
Ceremony observedThe Harem My Doubts
the ReaL
Cause of Miss
not entering on her Post
Governess
Mystery British Consular Court
Alexandria Registration of

Behaviour to the Princesses

to

late

as to

as

T.'s

at

British

port

Subjects The

Fee The

Value of a Foreign

Office Pass-

Egypt

Page 210

CHAPTER

XIII.

Social Life in the Harems

Their Morning Appearance Amusements Tchibouks Cigarettes Coffee Early Rising Turkish

Erroneous impressions of Author's

The Peris

of the

Harem

The Princesses Employment of their Time

Grand Eunuch Ladies of the Harem and Slaves Their
Medical Treatment
Appearance and Avocations
Morning
The Feet- washing Ablutions Hair-dressing VerToilette
min Daily Avocation Power over their own Slaves Monday's
Domestic Arrangements
Employments
By whom superintended The Washerwomen Breakfast How served Chanum
Kaleouns Their Contents Opium Pills Their Effects Appearance of the Princesses The Influence of Opiates Their
Kef The Forbidden Liquor Carnabal Wine The Siesta The
Bed Storeroom The Head Nurse's downy Couch The Sleeping
Beauty and the Beast The Female Tigress The Evening
Substitutes for Wardrobes Sarah,
Youks
The
Toilette
The Promenade
Amusements
Supper Crude Vegetables
Dominoes Tales Songs Coffee Drinking Dancing Zarfg
Their Size Numbers emptied daily The Cigarette-Makers
The Ethiopian Serenaders A Scene in the Stone Hall No SerThe Slaves in their Glory High
vice of Plate in the Harem
Time,

how reckoned

The

CONTENTS.

xxi

Harem The Confusion of Tongues

The Viceregal Laundry Process of Mangling A New Method
The Lady Paramount as Superintendent Her Appearance
Costume The First Wife in her Domestic Circle The Silent
How enforced Brutality towards a Slave The
System
Prince's Life in danger The Governess's Presence of Mind
Her
Highness's Instructions to the German Laundry-maid The
Young Princesses H. H. The Viceroy's Daughters
Their

Life below Stairs in the

Number

Parentage Their Occupation Mode of Ironing

Eeligious Toleration in Egypt
Page 235

Curious Irons

CHAPTER

XIV.

The SurThe " Tusbee," the Mahomedan's "Evening Call to Prayer " Shayton," the Devil's
Signal The Hand-bell, the Slave's Abomination
Use
the Harem The TransformaexplainedThe Viceroy's Visit
Celerity Notice of H. H.'s Arrival
tion How
A Man the Harem Eas-el-Fin The GhostThe Young
Princesses' FrightDisappearance of a Slave Whither she went
The Peris in Evening
Their Highnesses en grande
CostumeLadies of Harem and Slaves made BeautifulDisplay
of Jewels My Impressions of
Use Sum annually spent
Liberality The Princesses'
Precious Stones The
Treasures Spolia tion of Viceregal Princes The Viceregal Dinner
Private Apartments The Table-cloth
The Courses H.
The Attendants White Slaves Who serves the Dishes The
of the Lady Paramount The Wives' duties The GoverDinner The
ness and the PrinceTheir Pastime The Wives
Viceroy's PastimeThe Grand Pacha's Perruquier His Locks
into the Nile A BoatAn Arab SuperstitionA Packet
man's Amusement Bismillah Omens of Good and Evil The
Display of Robes
Hawadjee and the Believers
Tricks of Trade Soiled GoodsLast Year's Fashion The

How

I pass

my

Sabbath

The

prise of the Peris of the

Unbeliever at Prayers

Harem

"

Its

to

effected

in

Its

at

Toilette

in

their

Billionaire's

H.'s

Office

at

cast

fraternise

Governess becomes the Oracle

How

I gain their

Esteem The

CONTENTS.

xxii

The Odalisques at HomeAn Oriental Prover

The Greeks and GermansPrussian Influence The English
a Discount The Princess at Prayers " He'r Nainaz,"
Prayer Carpet The Beads A Costume H. H. the Prince a
His Tricks His Powers of Imitation The Tchibouk The Rose
Pink NarcoticDeath in the PalaceH. H.'s DaughterThe
Harem in Mourning The Viceroy's Visit The Prince's Fall
Means adopted

al

th<

Page 253

Superstitious Observances

CHAPTER XV.

The Viceroy's disregard of Turkish Etiquette How he takes the

Bath His Attendants The Duties of the Wives and Ikbals
He possesses no Power over his Wives' Slaves Plurality of
Wives The Koran H. H. must not covet a Wife's Slave The
Penalty The Divorce A Turkish Princess's Revenge The
The Husband's Death It is dangerous to play
Slave's Fate
with Edged Tools How the Head Nurse obtains her Wealth
My Cash-box coveted Why The Nurse's Work-box Its
Contents Where they came from Egyptian Gold A Collection of Coins
Their Size A Tin Toothpowder-box Its Appropriation
What becomes of the Slaves' Hoards after Death Their
Funeral Hired Mourners Wax Candles The Coffers of the
Kislar Agasi How filled The Inmates of the Harem take an
Excursion on the Nile The Crocodiles A Slave thrown into
the Nile How he escapes His Reward H. H. the Grand
Pacha in his Glory A Fit of Cruelty The Prince's Characteristics
H. H. the Princess's Mode of Correction The Influence of
The Cruelty of the Head Nurse H. H. the Grand
a Hair Pin
His Powers of Imitation and
Pacha's Vices His Pastimes
Mimicry The Money Changer and his Customers Substitute
for Paras A Viceregal Dealer in Rupees Stock-in-Trade
H. H. learns to count in English Sharp Practice The Young
Usurer Portrait of Ibrahim Pacha at Ras-el-Tin The Prince's
Delight How he does his Customers brown The Lady Money
Changer Her Viceregal Customer His Finesse The Chipped

CONTEXTS.
Counter

xxiii

The Argument H. H. Ibrahim out of Temper An

H. H. the ViceroyThe poor Man The Father plays

Intruder

H.

Pacha pays a Compliment The

Money The Viceregal Drill Sergeant
A Band of little Amazons His Highness's
Eecruits A refractory Private Her Punishment The Courbache The Grand Pacha's Love of Military Glory His Imitation of the Kegenerator of Egypt and the Conqueror of Syria
Their Characters The Viceregal Caique His Naval BrigadePenalty for Neglect of Duty The Bastinado The Viceregal
Mufti Mosque in the Harem How fitted up The Mufti at his
Namdz His Congregations The Viceregal Builder The
Taskmaster His Labourers Their Occupation A Substitute
for Mortar
A Novel Hod The Prince's Toys Their Value
Articles selected
A Deficiency Gymnastics at a Discount
The Grand Pacha and one of the Princesses his Sister on a Pilgrimage to Mecca How clothed Substitute for Habarahs
Wallet and Money The Procession A Novel Palankin Its
Occupant The Viceregal " Hammels," Porters Their Burdens
Chastisement
Their Thanksgiving and Cry
The Hekim
Pacha (" Doctor ") His Assistant His Visit to the Harem
Preparation for his Reception His Patients Mode of Treatment Pills How Made The IkbaVs Medicine Bon-bons

with the Son

H.

Isniael

Governess's Disappointment H. H.'s Love of

The Quantities imported

Harems

into the

Harem

Number of Viceregal
Page 275

CHAPTER
rhe Viceregal Medical Staff

Their

XVI.
Treatment of Englishwomen's

The Mothers of the HaremTheir Knowledge

of Medicine Their Characters Prince Baksheesh at a
Premium Annals of Egyptian History Narcotics Philters
Their Power Haschachir Effects upon the Brain

Constitution

Its

When

it

should be taken

Double

Hallucinations

it

produces

Ringing of Bells Chanting at a Distance

Konnah Hindu The
Existence A Lethargy

Singular Noises

The

xxiv

CONTENTS.

WeedBangThe

Kef Its

Derivation The
Marrow Dried
Hippopotamus Their Fate The Doctors Their Skill The
Hekim Pacha Their Visits to the Harem Operations on a
SlaveA Slave at the Point of DeathThe Italian Doctor The
Hanem enceinte The Mother's Anxiety The Hekim's Tact
His Reward Dominoes H. H. the Grand Pacha Master of the
Ceremonies The Fantasia Turkish Songs The Prince's BanHer History A Visit from Vermin
quet
His Ucbal
Their Abode The Slave and the Bon-bons The Prince acts as
Judge The Gourmand Foot Ball Where it went to "The
Old Curiosity Shop " An Exploration The Curiosities Old
Clothes The Wardour Street Vertu Dealer's. Show Eoom in the
Harem Pictures China Clocks A Miscellaneous Collection

Fakir's

Mothers of the Harem

of Ostrich

Turkish

Efficacy

My Resolve How prevented My Impression of

Harem

Life

The Eight Young Eunuchs Their DestinationThe Bleating

and Butting of a Ram The Damage done H. H. the Prince
becomes an Amateur of the Ring The Eunuch and his Mother
My

own

Reflections

Page 301

HAREM LIFE
CHAPTER

After

I.

a quick but tempestuous voyage from

the busy port

of

on

Marseilles,

Peleuse, one of the

fleetest

board

the

steamers in the

service of the Messageries Imperiales, I arrived

in the land of the Pharaohs, at the harbour of

Alexandria, in the

proceeded

to

month

the

Hotel, where I took

As a

days.

of April, 186

Peninsular

my

up

and

Oriental

quarters for a few

host of travellers have minutely,

but yet not, according to

my

impressions, very

accurately described that Liverpool of Egypt,

Alexandria
it

is

for

Egypt as

are vastly different

it

was and Egypt as

nevertheless, I shall

not attempt to give any topographical account

vol.

I.

HAREM

LIFE.

of that wonderfully improving country and

its

ancient capital, the whole length and breadth

of which I was enabled to traverse during

my

residence with the viceregal family.

H. H. the Viceroy s reputed agent in London

had, to use mercantile phraseology, consigned

"bag and baggage,"

me,

the

to

care of an

eminent banking firm at Alexandria, who are

also reported to be associated

Pacha

with H. H. Ismael

in his private capacity as the billioniare

Eastern merchant prince.

Upon

forwarding

my

letter of introduction

bill

of lading

to Messrs.

I received instructions to

yclept

H. and Co.

proceed to Cairo by

the express train, and there to report myself,

on

arrival, to

Mr. B. who, independently of being

associated with H. H. the Viceroy in mercantile

pursuits, also

means

holds the lucrative, yet

sinecure, appointments of

by no

Keeper of the

Privy Purse and Purveyor General of H. H/s

Households
Viceroy

for it

maintains

must be observed that the

numerous

establishments

both at several palaces and harems.

After having visited every nook and corner
of

"

El Iskendereeyeh"

proceeded

to

the

EGYPTIAN RAILWAY.

railway-station,

entered

first-class

carriage,

and was whirled away by the iron king en

That journey has been

route for the capital.

described by

often

^o

that

shall

my

merely give an account of

and

fellow-passengers

their conversation,

which

me with an insight into the chamany individuals with whom it was

furnished
racters of

my

abler pens than mine,

fate afterwards to

made myself comfortable

Scarcely had I
the carriage,

be mixed up.

when

in stepped

Both were of middle

age,

in

two gentlemen.

most agreeable in

The younger one

manners, and rather chatty.

was a Greek merchant, of the name of Xenos,

who

resided in Alexandria, and

who was

pro-

ceeding to Cairo, and thence up the Nile, to

purchase
realizing

cotton,

which

that period

at

most fabulous prices both

and France.

The other was much

he was of the Jewish persuasion

Cohen

(for

that

was

his

in

was

England

his senior
;

and Mr.

name) was a native

of the good city of Frankfort.

On
fair

our arrival at Tantah, where the annual

was being held

fellow-travellers

and

assured

B 2

at

me

which

my

two

that slaves were

HAREM

4
sold

in

186

LIFE.

notwithstanding

existed a treaty abolishing

the

the train was shunted off the

that

there

slave-trade
to

line,

admit

of H. H. the Viceroy's private despatch train

passing on

Here we were detained

its route.

twenty minutes

and

as

watched that de-

spatch train approach the terminus, thinking

that I might be gratified with a glimpse of

some of the Cabinet

ministers,

concluded were seated in

beholding

it,

who

I naturally

was surprised

young

the heads of several

thrust out of the first-class carriage which

My

attached to the tender.

when

siderably excited

curiosity

saw that

at

ladies

was

was con-

their cast of

countenance was either Levantine or German.

They wore no bonnets; long black

thrown carelessly over their heads
were

attired

in

black

veils
;

were

and they

Then

latarahs.

naturally exclaimed to myself,

"

What hasty news is now

What revel rout
Is

abroad

kept about ?"

And, when they arrived

at the station, I heard

them distinctly conversing both

German.

in French

and

viceroy's private despatches.

my

Turning round to

Xenos

who

sat,

fellow-passenger, Mr.

ruminating, perhaps, on the

cotton market, in the corner of

state of the

the carriage nearest the main line

of

him why

that train

said, " Well, I

He

cannot exactly

all probability, it is

inquired

was designated "the

Viceroys private despatches."

because

tell

it is

smiled,

you

who may chance

visits to

and

but, in

always appro-

priated for the purpose of conveying

damsels

all

fair

come on flying
H. H. Ismael Pacha and as foreign
to

ladies are generally the very essence of intrigue,

may

it

not be possible that they are the bearers

of secret despatches

But

as it

not

is

my

province to unfold the mysteries of H. H. the

Viceroy's

private

upon the subject

courteous

prince

despatches,

that

is,

will

their society with that

ruler

of

all

can say

hope that that

enjoy the pleasure

of

otium dignitate that

Egypt knows

so

how

well

to

appreciate."
I

learnt

much more about EL H. s

despatches, during

my

private

residence in Florence,

from a German lady, who kept a Bureau du

Remplacement

in the

Via de

la Scala,

but from

HAREM

which beautiful

capital of

LIFE.

Italy she has since

disappeared.

The private despatch

and we followed, about ten minutes

speed,

afterwards, in

The
and

train rushed on at full

ice

its trail, at

a snail's pace.

having been broken between myself

my

naturally led to the purport of

"Land

and

of Dates"

its

conversation

the

fellow-travellers,

my

visit to the

merchant

ruler.

In

reply to a few trivial questions I had put to

the Greek merchant, Mr. Xenos very kindly

explained to
perience of

me

life

that

Egypt

in

twenty

his

led

him

years' ex-

to regard

my

position as one fraught with considerable per-

and, as I afterwards found that his

plexity;

observations were perfectly correct, I shall give

them

in detail, as their purport bears directly

on Harem Life and the intrigues of the Egyptian Star Chamber.

" But,"

added that amiable gentleman,

"

much

depends upon the conduct of H. H. the Viceroy towards yourself, and that of his confidential

that

advisers.

expression,

Rescind Pacha,

Perhaps
for

who

His
is

err

in

using

Excellency Ismael

H. H.

confidential

a greek's description.
and a near

adviser,

relative,

hands

of the

for

as

H. H.

prone
has

counteracting the plots and

full in

machinations of
partners

am

is,

who always

to believe, an upright Turk,

his

the

favourites

reputed

arid

merchant prince

billionaire

Ismael Pacha receives you, so

will His Excellency Eeschid Pacha, his tried

and

faithful friend

and

behave

relative,

to-

wards you.
" If

you can manage

with that minister,

on good terms

to keep

all will

go well with you

do man in Egypt understands the

your position better than His Excellency,

has to combat in the day against

and

all

who

the arts

influences that are generally brought

bear upon the

mind

for

difficulties of

to

of H. H. the Viceroy at the

reputed orgies which take place at the Palace at

when His Excellency

night,

within the precincts

or

Bliss,'

very early in the

Ismael Pacha

is

for

he

is

up

safely

own

'

Abode

morning,

at the

housed

dawn

of

when
of

day

steaming up the Nile at three or four

o'clock, sitting

of his

and

of his

is

on the sofa in the poop of one

fairy -like

yachts,

sipping, not real

smoking

cigarettes,

Mocha, but full-bodied

HAREM

LIFE.

and refreshing Burgundy, though he be a

true

believer.

"It

is

the demeanour of the clique about H.H.

and the reputed co-partners towards you, that

I would have you watch and scrutinize most
Life in the

carefully.

Harems

of the

Egyp-

tian rulers has never been faithfully described

by any

no

authors, for the simple reason that

unbeliever has as yet been domiciled therein

them it has been an unknown land, and one

their pen-drawings, however, are
of myths
far from encouraging, and the late lamented
to

Dr. Abbott,

who

the

collected

most unique,

most valuable, and perfect museum of Egyptian

curiosities
left

as being in his

day 'the very focus of

scenes of profligacy of the

intrigue, the

most abhorrent nature, ah

the

possess, has

a very clever work, in which he describes

them
low

which the Americans

deepest

die

;
'

but,

and of crimes of

thanks

to

lightenment of the age in which

most wonderful and

has, I

beneficial

the

we

en-

live,

improvement

have been assured, taken p]ace, even in

those sacred places.

"

The

signification of the

word Harem

is

S0LYMAN PACHA.

misnomer in our European acceptation

perfect

of the expression, unless indeed

by

its

we

interpret

it

other and far more appropriate meaning,

'interdicted/

Moslems

since

as implying

'

of

houris,

by

considered

is

it

The Abode

and the type or model of that

dise

all

of Bliss/

celestial para-

which the prophet Mahomet

has inculcated into the minds of his followers

will be their Kishmet, 'fate/

when they

shall

enter the seventh heaven in the world to come.

Hence the reason why those monsters of men,

those spectres of their sex, the chief enunchs,
1

are styled Kislar Agaci,

and

girls;'

the captain of the

Dar-us-seadet Agaci,

also

'the

guardian of the Abode of Bliss/

"Besides,

Egypt
that I

many

of the

finished their

am

recent Viceroys of

education in

France, so

inclined to believe that a great

ame-

lioration has taken place of late years in their

internal

menage

and Solyman Pacha the Mag-

nificent introduced great innovations into the

domestic habits and customs of the inmates

of his

Harem,

as

also

among

the

manners

and customs of the Princes themselves

if I

am

correctly informed,

many

and,

of the late

HAREM

10

LIFE.

Pachas had not only their palaces furnished

in the European style, but surrounded themselves

with foreign attendants, and even had

English nurses for their children.

This

Mustapha Pacha, the

case with H. H.

is

the

heir pre-

sumptive to the Viceroyship, who not only

that person with respect,

treats

butes most liberally to

all

quirements a la Europeenne
manners,

language,

but contri-

her wants and re-

but then the

and habits of those do-

mestics could not have tended, in any beneficial

degree, to ameliorate the characters of the

children committed
of

them have been

us an insight into
fain trust that

you

to their care,
intelligent

Harem

and none

enough to give

life.

will not find

So

would

your position

you may have led yourself

so unbearable as

to

suppose.

"At

all

events you must keep yourself clear of

the petty intrigues of the court cabals.

Watch

with a careful eye the manner in which the

three Princesses, H.

you.

Endeavour

and good opinion,

portance, their

H/s

wives, behave towards

to gain, not only their respect

but,

what

is

of primary im-

confidence, especially that

of

JEALOUSY OF PRINCESSES.

young Prince

the mother of the

is

only the second wife, she

Paramount, for the

first

is

11

but, as she

not the Lady

Spouse claims that

prerogative.
"

Sad

tales of the jealousy of Princesses

Harems have been

the Egyptian

circulated,

in

and

accurately too, as I can vouch for the veracity

of

my

that,

informant

so that it

should you find

with H. H.

it

may

be possible

necessary to battle

reputed associates to obtain Eu-

ropean comforts about you, and to maintain

your status as an

English

mere

the

lady,

granting of those absolute necessaries for your

individual comfort, might arouse that green-

eyed monster, jealousy, within their viceregal

bosoms, as their entire ignorance of your habits
will

make them regard such

on the part of their

trivial attentions

liege lord

and master

signs of his too pointed wish to

as

become on

terms of familiar intimacy with you."

"

Well done

are giving

"

interrupted Mr. Cohen.

Madam

her position
to forget

but,

that

"

You

a most truthful account of

my

dear Xenos, you appear

our fellow-traveller ought to

learn to school her too-confiding

mind

to look

HAREM

12

upon the

LIFE.

actions of all around her with the

greatest distrust."

Then addressing himself

"I would

have

well-established

Madam,

you,

alive

the

to

whole coterie

that the

fact,

which you

into

to me, he continued.

will be introduced

is

the very

hot-bed of intrigue, jealousy, and corruption

but

yet, let

chief

me

eunuch

trust,

not of profligacy.

The

generally supposed to possess

is

absolute powers within the Harem, even over

the

Princesses

but

as

Egyptian, Prince Baksheesh,

of Egypt, you

may

take

most important personage

slave of H. H.
as they can

that
is

my
is

all-powerful

the actual ruler

word

for it that

himself the abject

reputed associates, for as long

command the

favours of that omni-

potent prince, and bask in the sunshine of viceregal smiles, to

them

and doings

of those

walls of the

'

" I

is
'

reported the sayings

caged birds

Abodes of

'

within the

Bliss/

admit that your position as an English

lady entitles you to receive every attention, yet

at the

same time you

conform to

many
may

customs, which

will be called

upon

to

strange whims, fancies, and

appear most singular and

13

DIFFICULTIES.

outlandish

your European notions

to

many may even seem

naturally sensitive
hope,

by the

to graft a

nay,

quite repugnant to your

feelings

but you

will,

influence of your example, be able

few

civilized

and Turkish manners.

customs on their Arab

Your apparent amia-

bility of

manner

you

be respected by H. H. the Viceroy,

to

will, in all probability,

cause

beloved by H. H. the Grand Pacha Ibrahim,

esteemed by their Highnesses the three wives,

and the Princesses

their daughters.

And no

doubt your position will cause you to be feared

by the slaves, among whom, I must caution

you, commence those petty intrigues which have
hurled favourites from their apexes, gathered

concubines to their last accounts, led

ruling
to

the

sudden disappearance,

and

in

many

instances most unaccountably strange deaths,

of

numerous

viceroys,

who have

falsely

been

reported to have died suddenly of apoplexy

to the unfastening of the bolts of the viceregal

railway-trains

that

infant

viceregal

the

poisoning of

nephews have handed

uncles

all

these,

the

dates

to

their

and many more

equally atrocious deeds, have been concocted

HAREM

14

within the magic

LIFE.

circle of a

band of Harem

slaves."

"

Ah

ah

merchant,

"

exclaimed the Greek

Indeed,"

your

task,

my dear madam, will

not

have been half achieved, unless you can gain the

friendship

men

and co-operation of H. H/s reputed

of business

they are not

no easy matter, especially as

much

manners which
from the male

gifted with that suavity of

ladies are

By

sex.

accustomed to expect

Europeans, Arabs, and

Egyptians, they are styled H. H/s reputed part-

But I deeply regret/' continued Mr. Xenos,

ners.

" that

any English lady should have accepted

such an appointment
the

strong antipathy

and knowing,
that

all

Germans and

Arabs entertain towards the English,

strongly urge

upon

you,

even

as I do,

at

would

this

the

eleventh hour, the propriety of abandoning the

idea of entering H.
"

H/s

service.

In support of this suggestion

I shall

explain to you that I have resided

merely

many

years

both in Egypt and Constantinople, and from

my

dearly-bought experience of Egyptian and

Turkish

life,

lament that any European lady

should contemplate domiciling herself within

15

DIFFICULTIES.

the baleful influence of the viceregal

you

for be assured that

veniences,

much more

will lack all the con-

the agreemens, of a Euro-

H. H. Ismael Pacha, Viceroy

pean residence.

though he

Harem

merchant

be, is a true

at heart,

and

squanders not away his paras in costly fur-

And

niture for his wives.

H. H.

and yachts decorated in the

palaces

most sumptuous
"

That

style

Viceroy's

taste,

Elysium

even

if it

tain great fears)

health.

is

'

literally

climate

such

although quaffed so

own

as pale

colder climate

copiously

Viceroy, will be provided for you.

fact,

renders

than they have been accustomed

do not imagine that those forbidden

known

Europeans to imbibe much

to partake of in their
I

cuisine

of

does not (of which I enter-

greater quantities of stimulants

ale

'

be most unpalatable to

The nature of the

and wine

caged birds

prove most injurious to your

obligatory on

it

la Eiiropeennc.

diet of the

I'Arabe, which will

your

not the only drawback that awaits

The peculiar

you.
the

is

yet you will find

that

drink quantities

and

liquors,

by H. H. the
It is a well-

their Highnesses the wives

of

Schiedam.

Then again

HAREM

16

LIFE.

Harem and

the entire atmosphere of the

its

grounds must necessarily be impregnated with

the fumes of tobacco, into which powerful narcotics are introduced, so that the air

your consti-

will breathe will prove injurious to

tution

of the

the

and ud cleanly habits

besides, the loose

attendants,

Arab

more

particularly those of

you

nurses, will disgust

sad monotony of the daily

upon

called

life

and the
be

will

to lead will be of such a melan-

were better

self

you

choly, convent-like nature, that in

it

which you

far that

within the

cell of

my

opinion

you had immured youra nunnery, than entered

the precincts of a Harem."

I listened

most attentively to Mr. Xenos's

account of the

my

difficulties of

position,

and

almost repented of having accepted the ap-

pointment ;
I

was

still I

afraid he

could not help observing that

had overcoloured the

picture.

"Believe me," interrupted Mr. Cohen,

friend has only given

Harem

life

in

you a

Egypt, and

faint
if

outline of

anything, that

delineation, dark as it appears to you,

not overdrawn; in
reality,

fact,

it

"my

falls

is

really

short of the

even so far as we forbidden intruders

17

OPINION OF FAIR SEX.

into those castles of pleasure have hitherto been

You, who are about so soon to

able to learn.

enter those

'

sacred

'

recesses of viceregal

life,

have an opportunity of judging of the cor-

will

rectness of

my

views on this head.

" I

would however, above all things, impress

upon your mind the actual value which all
Turks, Egyptians, Levantines, and,
feelings akin to

shame that

I affirm

who have been

Europeans,

is

with

it,)

even

(it

some

domiciled

time in the Ottoman dominions, entertain of

They regard women,

the fair sex.

madam,

of every nation

society,

as

the

gratification.

mere slaves to

all

dear

grades in

their sensual

Hence the reason that they keep

daughters, and concubines, caged

their wives,

up

and of

my

in lattice-windowed houses

by eunuchs, those atoms

they deprive of

all social

protect

of mankind,

them

whom

intercourse with the

male sex and the outer world, and treat as

abject slaves.
life

Many

erudite writers on Oriental

have gone so far as to question whether

they are properly so termed, for

that

many
i.

is

certain

of these guardians of the beauties

of the East

vol.

it

have married the wives of their

c

HAREM

18

and masters,

lords

sent to that

and

'

LIFE.

whom

they had previously

bourne whence no traveller returns'

report adds, have even had large families

by them.
"

These remarks are not, however, so appli-

Harem

cable to

Egypt

for,

in Constantinople, as in

life

in the lovely-situated capital

on the

Bosphorus, the ladies of the Harems enjoy both

and caique

carriage

a degree

airing daily,

of freedom

in

unknown

in

altogether

In the East the male sex think, as

Egypt.

Butler has so naively expressed

lesque

and revel

poem
"

it

in his bur-

of Hudibras

Women

first

Not men

were made

for them.

for

men,

It follows, then,

That men have right to every one,

they no freedom of their own.'

And

"

In Pharaoh s land, that sex, formed by the

Creator of the Universe to become the solace

and companion of the

prized

fallen sons of

by the stronger

sex,

Adam,

whose duty

it

is

most

unquestionably ought to be to protect them,

only for the price in gold that they give or

can

obtain for

them

they are viewed

as

LAXITY OF MORALS.

19

marketable commodities, just as a chapman

calculates the value of his bales of merchandize.

Hence the reason why Turks and Egyptians

will

always remain semi-barbarians, until a

radical change can be effected in their families

by means

of education, that

slow but sure

precursor of civilization.
"

But most unhappily for the speedy ameliora-

tion of such a deplorable state of things, even

Europeans,

who have

lived long in

any part of

the Ottoman dominions, imbibe the same laxity

of morals, and disreputable ideas."
veracity of this assertion I

during

my

[Of the

had ample proof

residence at Mr. B/s, at Cairo, as

there an acquaintance of that gentleman hesi-

tated not to

introduce into his apartment a

person of most questionable character, at which

I

remonstrated,

Zech's Hotel,
"

if

and threatened

to

return to

such conduct was repeated.]

So that they hesitate not to tread in the foot-

steps of the votaries of the Koran, keep

Harems,

European women into

clutches,

entrap

and

as calmly

and coolly dispose of them,

they had been born

"

their

Would time

as if

slaves.

permit, I could also disclose to

c 2

HAREM

20

LIFE.

you many instances of blank cheques, bonds,

heavy mortgages on
have been

most of which

estates,

foreclosed, nay,

most lucrative

offices,

under the Ottoman and Egyptian Governments,

having been bartered away by licentious Egyp-

and Turkish princes and

tian

millionaires, to

unprincipled Europeans, for gems

of humanity,

dots

everlasting

even

many

of female

whom,

of

shame and degradation be

now rank

as the

creme de

la

to
it

their

stated,

creme of

European society in the Ottoman dominions.

Legions are the instances I could enumerate of

men, the abject scum of the

earth, rising to

enormous wealth, and holding high

positions,

both in Egypt and Turkey, by means of such

base and shameful infamy.

"The Crimean war produced

ful

influence on

a most bane-

the morals of the different

Levantine populations of

all

The

grades.

re-

quirements of the vast armaments that were

concentrated there, brought untold sums of

gold into the coffers of traders of

tions.

all

denomina-

Prussian Jews, the very refuse of the

good city of Frankfort, the

tion of which

is

so

Israelitish

celebrated for

popula-

its

craft,

PARVENU- MILLIONAIRES.
tergiversation,

duplicity,

phrase

is,

sticking

with the scum of

at

and,

21
the

as

nothing

;
'

slang

together

Italy, Spain, France, Malta,

Greece, and the Levant, became suddenly en-

Many who

riched by that disastrous struggle.

commencement of that war were literally

homeless, shoeless, and penniless, are now
millionaires in Egypt
for
at the

"

Feeling ashamed of their antecedents in their native land,

They rushed off in shoals to the land of flies and sand,'

and the shores of the lovely Bosphorus, where

they

now

roll

about in their carriages, keep

large establishments, live in cuisine

d FArabe,

and give spreads of twenty to thirty covers,

and drink the choicest wines.

when

laid

cuisine

would challeuge the chef-deto make a handsomer

out,

Gunter

of

appearance

Their tables,

the

mouth

of a

gourmand would

absolutely water at the sight of those inviting-

looking viands.

But be

reader, that the

moment he

fully

assured,

kind

tasted them, unless,

indeed, he

had been previously accustomed

Arab

he would become perfectly disgusted

diet,

with the gout of those filthy messes.

to

They

HAREM

22

LIFE.

keep large establishments, speculate in cotton,

hold hundreds of bank, railway, and joint-

company

shares,

receive large

deposits

from

Europeans, for which they give from twentyfive to thirty per cent, interest

are the

and

in short

Hudsons of Egypt and the Ottoman

Empire.
"

Their banking operations are immense

loans w-hich they advance to the Arabs,

their gains in their

them out

the

who bury

Harems, instead of putting

to interest,

them

or using

to

meet

their current expenses, are most numerous and

profitable.

who

In short, these are the class of

are all-powerful in

reputed individuals

who

for every public work,

railways

down

Egypt

these are the

possess the contracts

from the opening of new

to the almost insignificant im-

provement of paving the roads of

capital."

men

its

ancient

23

ACTUAL RULERS OF EGYPT.

" I

my

you,
in

think,

if

CHAPTEK

II.

my memory

is correct, I

heard

dear madam, complain of the manner

which you were jostled about on landing at

Alexandria
officers

how roughly

the

Custom-house

examined your baggage, notwithstand-

ing that they

knew

the position you

came

to

hold?"
"Yes, indeed,

Mr. Cohen, and can en-

I did,

dorse the veracity of the statement

contributor to Once

and truthfully
"

eek,

who most

naively

asserts that

of

Egypt

is

ruled over

one of

whom

is

the Viceroy, eighteen

known

as Consuls General of

The land

Princes

made by a

of the others are

by twenty

European nations, but the twentieth

most powerful of
(" Gift, Present,

all,

and

his

Bribery").

name
Very

is

is

the

Baksheesh

little,

indeed,

can be done without the aid or countenance of

HAREM

24
Baksheesh

he

is

LIFE.

the ruling power.

Not a

single package of a traveller's luggage (no, not

even

belonging

that

to

Governess

the

of

H. H. the Grand Pacha Jbraham, the infant son

of the Viceroy), not a bale of goods can enter
or be shipped out of the country without his

leave

not a handful of cotton can leave

it

without paying him tribute.

"

'

Do you want

to set

up a steam-engine,

to

build a house, hire a lighter, to send goods off

by

do something which you have

train, to

no right to

do,

have no right to get

Baksheesh;

on his
that

offer

shrine,

something which you

to get

Why,

then, invoke

up a proper quantity of piastres

and the thing

is

you can get on without

done.

his aid,

will soon find out your mistake.

faith in the

most potent of

see

how you

stop

you

in the corridor, as

viceregal presence,

Baksheesh will

will fare.

and

if

and you

Put your

his brother princes,

and

will spring

Imagine

you approach the

he frown, small profit

from your interview.

Dodge

past

him, get your order, your permit, your judg-

ment, concession, or what not, and the day of

submission

is

but postponed.

You can

call

25

PRINCE BAKSHEESH.
spirits

from the vasty deep, but will they come

Can you put what you have gained

without the aid of Baksheesh

tion,

of

Let your own

it.

your

special "

petition, let the

into execu-

Not a

"

Prince

Viceroy grant

bit

back up

it,

let

the

Minister of State draw up the order, let the

highest personage in the department be charged
to carry

you got

out on your behalf, and what have

it

Nothing

absolutely nothing.

Get

a firman from H. M. the Sultan himself, and

you
"

are not
'

some

any better

off.

Baksheesh has creatures, nominally

filling

any of

whom

fifth-rate

government

post,

can put a spoke in your wheel.

Baksheesh

is

the very essence of bribery and corruption, and

without his aid nothing can be done.

Nile water

is

to the land, so

is

As

the

bribery and

corruption to the rulers and people of Egypt.

Nothing

is

produced without

" Exactly so,

it/

madam/' interrupted the Greek

merchant, laughing most heartily. " That writer

has hit the nail upon the right head, and

I strongly

must have had considerable exHer Britannic Majesty's court at

suspect that he

perience in

Alexandria, so admirably and faithfully does

HAREM

26

LIFE.

he describe the state of things in Egypt in this

But come, Cohen,

the nineteenth century.

I

am

quite

certain

fair traveller will

as

that sooner or later our

be brought in contact with

the firm of Messrs. H. at Cleopatra's ancient

capital

when next

she returns thereto, if not

with some of their partners at Cairo,

pray

give us a brief sketch of the autobiography of

those reputed Egyptian Eothschilds, as they

have been, and most assuredly

will be again,

mixed up with many an intrigue of Harem

Life."
" Well, as I trust that

prolixity
I

of

will use

as

graphic

you

will

pardon the

my sketches of Egypt as it is,

my best endeavours to give you
a

sketch

as

possible

H. the eminent financiers

of

of

Messrs.

Egypt.

The

family of the H/s were born and bred in the

pretty village of Oppenheim, on the banks of
the far-famed Rhine.
on,

fighting

For years they struggled

the battle

of

life,

and managed

during the Crimean war to follow the occupation of sutlers in the British
lava.

camp

at Balak-

There they drove a most lucrative trade,

and greatly contributed

to the comforts of our

A CRIMEAN
and

officers

At

soldiers.

British commissariat

was

27

SUTLER.
a

time when the

in the

most

fright-

younger members of the firm

ful disorder, the

might be seen driving their waggons about the

camp

in all directions

they are such

commissariat
telling

me

'

hence the reason that

good whips/

officer

now

remember a

resident

in

Egypt

that the Commander-in-Chief, Lord

him pretty handsomely because he had allowed Messrs. H. s waggons to

Eaglan, had rated

blockade, as

sums by
"

At

There they accumulated vast

camp.

the

in

were, the leading thoroughfare

it

selling pale ale, wines,

and

the close of the Crimean

ried off to Egypt,

spirits.

war they hur-

and having been

so fortunate

as to attract the notice of

H. H. Ismael Pacha,

the Viceroy, that Prince

is

lent

reported to have

them a few thousands, and finding them

thorough

making

men

cent,

of business, always intent

upon

per cent, they became his reputed

associates in mercantile pursuits.

The wealth

which they had accumulated soon gave them a

standing in the European commercial world

Egyptian loans were forced into the markets

of

London and

Paris

by

their skill, tact,

and

HAREM

28

manoeuvring

LIFE.

that stock maintained

its price.

Then came the cotton mania. Taking advantage

of the American civil war, they induced H. H.
the Viceroy to plant cotton most extensively

and by means of His Highness s command of

forced labour, railway and telegraph
cation,

steam

communi-

navigation on the Nile, taking

forcible possession of the Nile boats, lighters,

weighers
to

having orders issued to the Sheiks

lay heavy impositions on the lightermen,

labourers, carmen,

donkeymen

depriving the

whom

steamboat agents of the labourers

had procured

at

they

most fabulous wages, to the

detriment of the interest of the whole of the

legitimate commercial

community

both native and European

they

private fortune of H. H. Ismael

of

Egypt,

raised

the

Pacha from

600,000 per annum to upwards of two to

two millions and a half of pounds

"Their
financiers

success
(for

as

sterling.

His Highness's private

none of them hold any appoint-

ments under the Egyptian Government, but

into the favour of all of

whose

have ingratiated themselves

officials

they

of course their

propitiation of the sovereign ruler of Egypt,

THE BILLIONAIRE MERCHANT PRINCE.

Prince

29

Baksheesh, has tended to place them

upon a friendly footing with

all parties,

the mercantile community, with

except

whom, they

are

generally at 'daggers drawn/) has been most

amply rewarded,
associated with

for

they are reputed to be

His Highness not merely in

his mercantile pursuits, but also to enjoy the

benefit of the concessions that the Viceroy has

made

of railways, contracts for improving the

city of Alexandria, the purchase of steamboats,

machinery, making roads, paving

streets,

form-

ing steamboat navigation companies, forming

existing railways, post-offices, opening
&c. in nearly all of

which His Highness, as

plain Ismael Pacha, holds the greater

of shares.

banks,

number

Independently of this they are the

purveyors to the Harems of

all

European con-

diments, and the miscellaneous medley of costly

both of jewellery, china, clothing, &c.

articles

used therein, a monopoly which

itself.

They have branch houses

is

a fortune of

also all over

the Continent.

"The head

of the firm, a gentleman of the

Jewish persuasion,
circle in

is

much

which he moves.

respected in the

He, however, takes

HAREM

30
but

little interest

and may

LIFE.

in the business of the house,

therefore be looked

upon

ing or travelling partner, as he

as a sleep-

motive engine, always on the move.

who

generally

prop of

the

resides

a loco-

is like

His

Alexandria,

in

son,

the

is

His manner

establishment.

is

abrupt, curt, and anything but courteous to the

fair sex

he

is

man

an excellent

and thoroughly understands the

chant's advice to his son,

honestly

you

if

mer-

Bristol

Get money, John,

'

can, but

of business,

money, John/

get

He

is

all

worldly matters, exacting in the extreme,

well skilled in the arts and diplomacy of

He

even in private pecuniary engagements.

may most
Viceroy's

appropriately be termed H. H. the

'

civil

'

aide-de-camp,

if

allowed to coin the expression.

versally disliked

mercantile

by the whole

may

He

is

be

uni-

of the European

community, whose

interest

he

is

continually thwarting.
"

Well do

know that he

is

hatred, hesitates not to act

most

bitter in his

most maliciously

towards his opponents to gain his ends, and

rumour with her hundred tongues speaks

if

truth,

he has imbibed the same loose ideas of the

HIS HIGHNESS's

Egyptians entertain.

who

The member of the firm

passes the greater portion of his time

on

Bosphorus

the banks of the sapphire-looking

is

31

BUSINESS.

weaker sex as the Turks and

of the

value

MEN OF

one of the finest specimens of a Prussian Jew

you can imagine.

His

look, shrewdness, cun-

and countenance, remind one most

ning, craft,
forcibly of

"The Jew

He

is

the very impersonification of Shylock.

Measure them
given you
profit

that Shakespeare drew.'

all

well by the standard I have

for their sole

aim

is

to

make

out of everything, to turn to account

every article and baggage that comes into their

net,

and

to take advantage,

'

admits/ of every person with

law

as far as the

whom

they

may

They seem to think that Christians, as well as Turks and infidels, are born to
be pigeoned most ruthlessly. Too well do they

have dealings.

know

the

power of the sovereign

ruler

of

Egypt ah and of the Ottoman dominions

Prince Baksheesh and consequently they
!

too

never

fail to

tity of paras.

propitiate

him with a

full

quan-

HAREM

32

LIFE.

" These are the reputed associates of

H. H. the

Viceroy in his private capacity as Ismael Pacha,

the merchant prince
is

and yet

their influence

fortunately counteracted, in a slight degree,

by the

just

and upright concessions of His

Excellency Eeschid Pacha, whose position

not a very enviable one, but on

all the malignity that ought

The H/s,

other shoulders.

to be laid

it is

often aided H. H. the Viceroy in

private transactions

whom

is

falls

upon

reported, have

many

when he was

delicate

plain Ismael

Pacha, and since his accession to the govern-

ment

hence the reason of their possessing such

influence over the son of the gallant Ibrahim

whose

Pacha,

money-getting and avaricious

propensities he inherits in a

degree
"

most remarkable

for

Ismael Pacha

is

the richest prince on earth

And if his heart of joy and peace knows no dearth,

He must be the happiest of mortals. Oh how blest
!

For

"

all

others have a skeleton within their breast.'

As Mr. H. H. seldom

the Viceroy, for

why

not, unless it is because

or ever visits H. H.

or wherefore,

he

is

we know

of that persuasion

MR.

33

OF CAIRO.

B.

yclept Hebrew, the abomination of the Turk,

who

will tolerate the

intrusion of a Giaour,

but not that of any Copek dog of an

whose presence he

in
for

though Mr. H.

himself defiled

feels

may

Israelite,

think, like

Shylock,

Hath not a J ew hands, organs,

and say
dimensions, affections, passions ? Fed with the
'

same

food, hurt

with the same means, subject

by the same means,

warmed and cooled by the same winter and

to the

same

summer

diseases, healed

as a Christian

'

still

H. H. most un-

all

orthodox Otto-

questionably considers, as

mans

do, that

Dgehennum

will be the portion

of that accursed race, as there

and therefore always kept

friend

but one Allah/

his reputed but trusty

and long-headed private counsellor

respectful distance

"

is

As you have

Mr. B. of Cairo,

at a

from him.
a letter of introduction to

I will just

make you an fait

with the position of that gentleman.

He

is

one of the Viceroy's oldest friends, but has,

unfortunately, allowed his influence with His

Highness to be supplanted by Mr.

therefore
clever

a mere

young man.

vol. L

in the

tool

Mr. B.

is

C.

H. and

is

hands of that
of

Arab and

34

HAREM

Greek parentage

his characteristics

LIFE.

avarice
;

and

and parsimony are

yet,

had he been

from the thraldom of the firm

tioned, he

would have been more

free

have men-

respected/'

Just as Mr. Cohen had finished his description

of His Highness's associates, the collector opened

the door of the carriage, took our tickets, and

we

alighted at the Cairo terminus.

my

two agreeable companions

tion

and information,

accompany them

Thanking

for their atten-

accepted their offer to

to Zech's Hotel, which

we

soon reached, but experienced some difficulty

in procuring the

whole establishment was in confusion,

as the

owing

accommodation we required,

to rather

an amusing incident which had

just occurred there.

It

appeared that an elderly French gentle-

man, a distant
andria,

whom

in Italy,

During

relation of Messrs.
I

met afterwards

Pistoja,

up the

Nile,

those excursions he

fell

of an Italian

time.

had amused himself by

and

into the interior

of Egypt, in search of antiquities.

company

at

had been staying there some

his sojourn, he

travelling

H. of Alex-

On

one of

accidentally into the

and Arab commissioner,

SALE OF A MUMMY.
to

whom

35

he stated his desire to become pos-

mummy,

sessed of a

Both expressed

perfect in every respect.

their doubts as to the possibility

of his being able to procure such a specimen of

frail

humanity

the munificent

but,

sum

upon

of six

his

offering

them

hundred sovereigns,

they replied, after a short deliberation, that

they would do their best to accomplish his
commission.
It

happened just

at that time that

an Italian

apothecary, residing in the suburbs of Cairo,

had died

and the two rogues, taking advan-

tage of that event, hastily repaired to the abode

They represented to the old

housekeeper, who had superintended his frugal
of the defunct.

menage, that they had received instructions

from

his friends at Pisa

for

of an old noble family there

he was the scion

that

he should

be interred in the Catholic cemetery.

By

that

means they gained possession of the body of

the dispenser of drugs.

They then procured

embalmer,

the co-operation of a professional

who, steeping rags in those aromatic spices

so well

known

to the Egyptians,

body up, and most

skilfully

D 2

bound the

formed

it

into a

HAREM

36

mummy.

LIFE.

case was then procured, on which,

was painted numerous

hieroglyphics, facsimiles

of those that are usually found on such antiquities.

" treasure trove " at the resi-

Leaving their

dence of the deceased, they bent their

back to Cairo, proceeded to the

hotel,

way

and com-

municated to their unsuspicious dupe that they

had discovered, in a

village

on the banks of the

Upper Egypt, a mummy,

Nile, in

perfect state of preservation,

had had transported

Geezeh

at the

to a

in a

most

and which they

hut in the village of

same time

offering to conduct

the antiquarian to inspect the same, prior to

the bargain being

rian,

The antiqua-

concluded.

whose name was Monsieur

C.

accompanied

the two commissioners, quite delighted at the

prospect of being able to obtain the prize he

had sought

On

for

with such research.

the party arriving at the hut,

morgue,

" dead-house,"

worthy of any other designation,

examined the
or twice.

It

was wrapped

for the

could scarcely be deemed

mummy

Monsieur

C.

most minutely once

seemed to him that the body

in linen which, although naturally

THE ITALIAN APOTHECARY.

much

very

discoloured

by the

37

process of

em-

balming, bore evident marks of modern manufacture

and, turning round to his companions,

he remarked that the cloth seemed to have been

but recently wrapped about the different parts
that he had examined.

him

that

any parts

it

But they explained

was always customary

off

which the linen had

to

to re-wrap

fallen or de-

cayed away with new pieces steeped in newlyprepared aromatics.

The antiquarian examined

the fingers, then the toes, and next the head

all

of which

members he found

in a remark-

able fine state of preservation.

He

then arranged that the commissioners

should procure a case, have the

in

it,

mummy

and he would afterwards return with

them, and see the treasure screwed

outer

placed

shell.

Thus

down

in its

taking, as he imagined, every

precaution that no deception could be practised

upon him, by the substitution of any weighty

substance being placed in the case in lieu of
the " treasure-trove," he left the wily commissioners to arrange the matter;

and, after the

lapse of a few hours, they all returned to the

hotel at Cairo,

where they sat down to a well-

HAREM

38

LIFE.

spread repast, quite delighted with the bargain

each had made.

Three days afterwards, the two crafty commissioners

called

upon the

and

antiquarian,

informed him that the case was quite ready to

be screwed down, and begged him to accom-

pany them
had the

to Geezeh,

which he

satisfaction to see the

Then he

did.

mummy placed

in the case, securely locked, directed, corded,

and placed

in a country

which they returned to the

araba

six

after

hotel.

In four days afterwards, the

safely deposited in a spare

(cart),

room

mummy

was

at Zech's, the

hundred sovereigns paid down in hard cash

to the

two rogues of commissioners,

whom

the

dupe regaled w ith a most sumptuous luncheon,

T

with copious libations of sparkling iced champagne.

Monsieur
ing
as

all

C.

now amused

the different curiosities in

the time drew near for his

Pistoja, near Florence,

the

himself by visit-

room

in

Cairo,

and

departure for

he one morning entered

which the case was deposited

with the intention of nailing the address of

his

correspondent at

Leghorn upon

it.

His

THE .ANTIQUARY'S FLIGHT.

with such an

olfactory nerves were assailed

offensive effluvia

on his entrance

he became quite electrified

39

therein, that

at first

he thought

that the disgusting odour proceeded from the

bodies

of

some

one of the drains.

death in

crushed to

approached the

who might have been

rats

when

case,

He

the smell became

much more offensive still, not thinking for a

moment that it proceeded from the mummy,
;

he unlocked
ling of
effluvia

an

it,

but re -locked

it

in the twink-

powerful and offensive

eye, for the

emitted therefrom

gas

left

him no

doubt as to the fact that a recently deceased

body had been embalmed

aromatic rags

well

saturated

and then he became

fully alive

to the trick that the

sioners
It

in

two rogues of commis-

had played him.

was bad enough

have been \dctimised

to

had no

desire to be-

come the laughing-stock of the

Caireens, or

of so large a sum, but he

to

have the expense of interring the body, so

he

hastily

locked the

chamber, packed his

"penates," paid his " note/' told the headwaiter,

(for

Mr. Zech was absent at the time,) that

he should return in a few days as he was only

HAREM

40

LIFE.

He

going to Alexandria for a week.

then put

himself into the train and reached that port

by the

just in time to take his passage

steamer bound for Ancona.

Italian

Previous to his

departure he forwarded a small parcel contain-

ing the key of the "morgue," to

who had

Mr. Zech,

incur the expense of the Italian

to

apothecary's interment.

Through the kind attention of Mr. Xenos,

was shown up
changing
in

my

carriage

duction to

into an

apartment.

Hastily

travelling costume, I hurried off

to present

Mr. B. but

my

letter of

intro-

not finding him

at

home, as he had been summoned to attend

H. H. the Viceroy at Boulac,

I

hotel.

returned to the

had scarcely begun

B.

had sent

upon

guess

my

the

me

him

my

to bring

my

that Mr.

his carriage to fetch me.

requested

Bank

unpack

to

penates when a waiter informed

There-

bill

and

astonishment when, in exchange for

of

England note which

to him, he handed

me

not, as I

had handed

had expected,

the change in English or French money, but

the following miscellaneous coins,

viz., five

and

ten franc pieces, Spanish pillar dollars, several

THE SMALL CHANGE IN EGYPT.

41

Kussian coins of unknown names, valued at

three francs each, francs, shillings, florins, Sar-

dinian

liras,

half

liras,

Austrian quarter

florins,

together with a complete miscellany of smaller

coins,

both copper and

silver,

most admirably

museum

fitted for the cases of a private

to-

gether with a collection of Egyptian, Turkish,

Indian,

and Arab coins

currently

given

for

Such

is

European

the change

gold

pieces

throughout the whole length and breadth of

Egypt, save and except in the Harems, where

the gold effigy of her Majesty Queen Victoria

and the Emperor Napoleon

ing medium.
in

my

hand,

III. are

the circulat-

So, taking a small travelling

I

loth to be hurried off in that

manner, after

bag

proceeded to the bankers, very

my

unceremonious

journey from Alexandria,

under the scorching heat of an Egyptian sun,

and the desagremens of whirlwinds of sand.

HAREM

42

LIFE.

CHAPTER

III.

Entering the brougham which stood

door of the hotel,

was soon driven

at the

to Mr. B.'s

residence, situated in the vicinity of the Esbe-

keeh Square.

It

was a

spacious, modern, stone-

built three-storied house, having a good-sized

balcony in

front,

the square and

lower

floor,

which commanded a view of

and the upper part

was furnished

as the bank

was used

as the dwelling.

in the

European

The whole
in

style

unostentatious yet comfortable manner.

banker's establishment was
scale,

The

insignificant gardens.

its

or basement,

and consisted of a

an

The

upon a very limited

German

housekeeper,

black page, Arab cook, coachman and grooms.

His mistress was a

short, thickset,

ugly Arab

slave girl, about sixteen years of age,

Fatima,

whom

very young.

named

he had purchased when she was

VIRTUALLY A PRISONER.

43

me most courteously, apologized for having hurried me away from the hotel,
but informed me that His Highness Ismael
Mr. B. received

Pacha, the Viceroy, had requested that I should

become

the apartments were

his guest until

ready for

my

reception in the

remonstrated at this arrangement, as I did

not think

it

quite prudent that I should remain

in the house of a bachelor

under the same

of

Harem.

my

roof,

home,

his mistress

and urged the expediency

being allowed to return to Zech's.

This, however,
as that

who had

he was a
I

Mr. B. overruled, by stating

man

of business

and seldom

German

should be well cared for by his

house-keeper, Clara,

who would

my requirements, besides
particularly requested

at

attend to

all

H. H. the Viceroy had

him

to desire

form any acquaintances in Cairo.

me

not to

I therefore

yielded to his persuasions, and there I remained

almost in durance vile for a month, during which

period I received every attention and respect.
Scarcely, however,

than

action

had a few days

began to discover that

was

curtailed,

a prisoner in

my new

and that

my
I

passed,

freedom of

was

as

much

abode as any subordinate

HAREM

44
officer

placed
I

LIFE.

is when his commanding

him under arrest. I must

was quite taken aback

whole of that period

During the

liBerty.

was obliged

on cuisine d VArabe.

has

at being so uncere-

my

moniously deprived of

officer

confess that

to vegetate

Fortunately, however,

me

the kind Clara brought

a cup of coffee and

a small roll early in the morning, but without

any

butter,

which condiment

during the whole period

never tasted

remained in the

vice of H. H. the Viceroy, none having

being placed upon

My

my

breakfast was

ser-

ever

table.

me

served

in

my own

room, at twelve p.m. and which, together with

my

dinner, at six p.m., consisted of the follow-

ing carte
Soup,
celli

made

of mutton, with strings of vermi-

floating in

it.

Bice,

boiled

served up with tomato sauce.

(for beef,

plain,

Boiled

composed of tomatoes, with the

and

mutton.

mutton

lamb, or veal was never served up to

me), of which soup had been made.

out,

and

with boiled

filled

Boiled

tion of spinach

chicory,

dish

insides scooped

rice

and' minced

chopped up in imita-

la Francaise.

CUISINE

The whole
swimming in

45

i/aRABE.

of these dishes were absolutely

fat.

Eoast Mutton, dried up to a chip.

No

pastry, cheese, or malt liquor.

The

dessert consisted of oranges, preserved

and candied

fruits.

Sauterne and claret wines.

Coffee

was served up a

la

Turque, in small

transparent jindjaus, china cups, as

small as

egg-cups, placed in silver zurfs.

Of these refreshments
alone, as

I invariably

Mr. B. never favoured

me

company, being generally occupied

ness,

or

from

else

H.H. the Viceroy,

partook

with his
in

busi-

home in attendance on
who is almost invariably

accompanied by one of his associates in commerce, whether steaming up the Nile or loung-

ing at any of his palaces, as the

Harems

are all

some distance from the Viceregal

situated at
residences.

After having submitted to this incarceration

for

weeks, I

several

of the diet

complained to Mr. B.

but the only answer

received

was, that he regretted his inability to effect

any

alteration.

Finding that

my

health was

HAREM

46
suffering

from

it,

LIFE.

and the want

of proper exer-

requested to be allowed carriage airing,

cise, I

which was granted

English lady

coming out

me

immediately the other

who had arrived previous my

Cairo had taken her departure
to

to

for Europe.

few days after

dence

at

the

my

resi-

entered

my

had taken up

banker's,

Mr. B.

room, and informed me, that

if I

would step

out into the balcony about six o'clock, I should

have an opportunity of catching a glimpse of

the Viceregal family,

as

H. H. Ismael Pacha

generally took a drive about that time.

Feeling naturally anxious to see what kind

of individuals the Viceregal party were, I

the easy chair into

named.

moved

the balcony at the hour

Scarcely had I been seated there ten

minutes, when I observed a handsome Europeanbuilt

carriage,

drawn by four nob]e-looking

English horses, with postillions on their backs,

advancing towards the banker's.

The blue

silk

blinds of the carriage-windows were only half

drawn down, which enabled me

good view of the Viceregal party.
consisted

to

obtain a

Its

occupants

of H. H. the Viceroy, the Princess

THE VICEREGAL CORTEGE.

Epouse

(the

47

mother of the Prince), and H. H.

Grand Pacha Ibrahim.

As the cortege drew

the

near

Mr.

B.'s,

His Highness Ismael Pacha looked up at the

balcony, smiled, and displayed his fine set of
teeth.

The Princess Epouse did

my protege

likewise

never moved his eyes

of bonbons, out of which he

off the

while

packet

was busily engaged

in selecting those that pleased his palate best.

As

the glimpse I caught of the party was

but momentary,
their features.

had not time

to scrutinize

HAREM

48

LIFE.

CHAPTEK
The next morning, Mr.

IV.

B. introduced

me

to

the Messrs. H. who, after having alluded to the

vague contract that

had entered

into with

His Highness's agent in London, inquired of

me

were willing to enter the Harem

if I

which

merely

replied, "

Most

object in coming out to

certainly, as

Egypt was

charge of the young prince

and

prepared to enter on the duties of

to

my

to take

was quite

my

appoint-

ment/'
"

Well, then, madam," replied Mr. H. H. " I

think

it

necessary that I should explain to you

the reason

why you were

spirited away, as it

seemed to you, from Zech s.

It

was owing

to

another English lady being resident there at

cannot

tell

you exactly how

occurred, but Miss T.

was

so badly advised as

the time.

to

pay a

visit to the

Harem

it

of Said Pacha,

THE VICEROY'S DELUSION.

49

the late Viceroy; which, imprudence, having

come

His

to

Highness's

with declined to allow

the

of

Prince,

he

notice,

her

forth-

take charge

to

and requested

our

mutual

Mr. B. to have the kindness to give

friend,

up a part

of his residence for your

accommo-

as he did not wish that you should

dation

form

any acquaintances

who had

with a lady

associate

the

at

or

hotel,

so

far

for-

gotten herself as to 'peep and pry' into other

Harems.
"

Now,

as that affair is finally disposed

further restraint will be imposed

you are
exercise
ject,
is

at

liberty to take

no

upon you, and

whatever carriage

My

you may think proper.

chief ob-

however, in calling upon you this morning,

to inform

you what duties

As you

of you.

will be required

are necessarily ignorant of the

manners and customs of Egypt,

that

of,

H.H.

must mention

the Viceroy, labours under the delu-

sion that he will be poisoned.

"The young Prince

under your charge.

will be placed entirely

You must

never lose sight

of

him

to

your unorientalized mind, but, nevertheless,

VOL.

I.

for it will

undoubtedly appear strange

HAREM

50

LIFE.

a fact, that apprehensions are also enter-

it is

tained that poison will be attempted to be

administered to the boy,

who

is

years old, in some form or other.

must never be

left alone,

about five

So that he

nor be allowed to par-

take of any food which has not been previously

tasted

by the Hekim Bachi,

'Viceregal Doctor.'

Besides, H. H. the Viceroy, wishes that the lady,

to

whom

he confides the charge of the Grand

Pacha Ibrahim, should never quit the

cincts of the Viceregal

That, however,

Highness's special permission.

you must understand,

of form, as

you

pre-

domains, without His

is

but a mere matter

will always be able to obtain

leave of absence whenever you desire to visit

Cairo.

"H.H. the

Viceroy, with

that forethought

which characterizes him, has requested

state,

that as he considers his

me

to

London agent

has acted too parsimoniously in the matter

of

the pecuniary

contract,

he

doubled,

that

drawn up
to

recompense named in the

suggests
a

fresh

stipend

be

agreement should

be

that

the

that the period should be extended

three years, and

that

the

sum advanced

AMENDMENT OF THE CONTRACT.

51

should be allowed you in part payment of your

outfit."

I replied, "

That

was quite

sensible of

but that

Highness's kind offer;

His

could not

possibly think of binding myself for

any longer

period than two years

that

clause should

that, in case of

ill

and, besides, I requested

be inserted therein, so

health, I

might be able to

resign the appointment."

"

Most

assuredly/' replied Mr. H. H. " there

cannot be the slightest objection to such an

amendment
will

and

and our mutual

Mr. B.

friend,

have the contract drawn up forthwith

as soon as the apartments in the

Harem

are ready for your occupation, he will kindly

see

you

As
some members

installed therein.

Constantinople,

am

going to

my

of

family

there being rather seriously indisposed, I wish

you good morning, trusting that

the pleasure
or

of

seeing you

at Constantinople, should

Her Highness

on

I shall

my

have

return

you accompany

the Princess Epouse to that city

in the summer."

Saying which, he together with Mr. B. took

their departure,

much

to

E 2

my

satisfaction, as I

HAREM

52

LIFE.

had become quite weary

of the

Mr. H. H. in whose favour

vinced that

presence of

I felt quite con-

had not ingratiated myself,

And when

subsequent events proved.

" At length he

me

left

as

with his

false face,

His elvish heart transpicuous in his look,"

I felt quite relieved.

Day

after

day passed away, and

when

learn no intelligence
I

should be installed in

reply that I could get

monotony

of

my

daily

which was kept over

of a

little

and the

constant

sadly upon

times I

felt half

duties

all

use

life,

my

my

of

only
was,

The

not ready.

social intercourse

to tell

the

was probable that

it

my office. The
to my inquiries

apartments were

that the

could

still I

the

surveillance

actions, the

want

with Europeans,

Arab

diet,

constitution;

began

and

at

inclined to resign that post,

of which I

had not even entered

upon.
After a great deal of perseverance I obtained
a slight alteration in

my

diet,

by the occasional

change of boiled mutton for a

little

chicken

broth, the chicken being served up whole after

INTERVIEW WITH

C.

53

H.

having been boiled in the soup; some potatoes,

most wretchedly cooked, and a dish of mutton

chops burnt up to a cinder, and as hard as
leather,

without a spoonful of gravy or sauce of

Fortunately I had taken the pre-

any kind.

me

caution to bring out with

of books,

had

and

left

in the hurry of

little

else I really

a small library

needlework to be

my

True

the evening I took

gave

me

finished, or

was doomed

existence in that senseless, unpro-

manner.

fitable

departure

must have died of ennui.

For upwards of twenty days

to pass

my

it is,

that in the cool of

carriage

exercise,

which

an opportunity of examining every

nook

and corner

diate

vicinity.

of

At

and

Cairo

its

imme-

the end of about three

weeks another of the Messrs. H.,

designate as Mr. C. H., called

whom

I will

upon Mr.

B.

had an interview with me, and seemed quite

H.H. the Viceroy had not sent

enter the Harem.
In the conversa-

surprised that
for

me

to

tion that he

had with Mr.

to express his opinion that

must have forgotten

my

B.

he went so far as

H.H. Ismael Pacha

existence

and not-

withstanding that Mr. B. informed him that

HAREM

54

LIFE.

my

His Highness was quite aware of

his guest,

my

and that

being

apartments were not

yet fitted up, he flew off at a tangent, went

post-haste to the Viceroy,
told

me

and on

his return

that I must go then and there into

the Harem.

The abruptness and

authoritative tone of his

manner were something new

to me.

had not

been accustomed to receive such treatment at

the

hand of persons of even exalted rank

my own

my

sensitive

naturally rebelled at such behaviour.

my
it

anger, I coolly

was

had

country, about whose presence I

been brought up, and

my

enter the

and calmly

in

feelings
Stifling

replied, that, as

Sabbath, I should most certainly not

Harem on

that day, but that I

be ready to obey H. H.

would

behest on the morrow.

The good kind old German housekeeper had,

my

during

residence at her master's, given

me

an insight into the characters of the Messrs.

H.'

and well did

whom
up

my

future.

had

to deal,

mind how
I

know

parties

and consequently

to

was sorry

the

act
to

with

made

towards them in

quit

the

hospitable

roof of the banker, where I should have been

QUITS THE BANKER'S RESIDENCE.

55

exceedingly comfortable had Mr. B. only taken

the precaution to have had

my

from Zech's Hotel, as then

could have lived

on European and not Arab

use of which latter

cumbed.

my

meals served

diet, to

the constant

health eventually suc-

HAREM

56

LIFE.

CHAPTEE
Nothing more

forcibly

V.

demonstrates

truism, that " the schoolmaster

that no golden key

no

is

sacrifice

the

abroad/' than

on the

altar of

that all-potent sovereign prince of Egypt, " back-

sheesh
"

"

was required by me

The doors that knew no

No
for the

startling

march of

shrill

knocker plied by

intellect

approach into the

"

to enter

alarming
villain's

bell,

hand

was the herald of

Bower

my

of Bliss " of the

Crcesus-like vassal of the Padischah

Abdul

Aziz,

the Light of the World, the Sovereign of Sovereigns,

the Sultan of Turkey, the Billionaire

Merchant Prince of the East.

I rose

early on the morrow, and yet

spirits felt depressed.

expressed his

my

Mr. B. visited me, and

deep regret that he was pre-

57

THE EUNUCHS.

me

vented from accompanying

was

as he

to the Palace,

obliged to proceed to Alexandria

the same time adding

at

" I could not possibly

have escorted you beyond the precincts of the

eunuch s apartments.

chief

As you must neces-

sarily

be quite ignorant of the importance of

those

officials

in

Harem,

the

the

especially

Grand Eunuch, who, by virtue of his

amasses most fabulous sums of money,

office,

I will

give you a brief account of them.

"

Many of them become most

important per-

sonages in the country, hold high

State,

and even those who do not attain

rank possess great influence.

rally

offices in

They

the

to such

are gene-

mounted upon richly-caparisoned Arab

horses, the saddles

and

bridles of

which are em-

The horse wears round

an amulet, two silver wild-boar

broidered with gold.

his neck, like

handspikes,

with the points reversed, which

form a crescent, and which are thought to

possess the

the

and

power of guarding the

Evil Eye

!
'

haughty in

They
their

only of inferior rank

they possess over the

rider

are remarkably

bearing,

even

from
proud

when

tenacious of the power

women

of the

Harems

to

HAREM

58

LIFE.

which they are attached, and which authority

they hesitate not to abuse or modify, according
to their individual appreciation of each lady's

merits or demerits, which they calculate accord-

ing to the quantity of backsheesh that each

They are exceedingly

Peri hands them.

fair

avari-

and consider wealth must be acquired by

any means, no matter however questionable

cious,

so that the majority of

them

are very rich.

Their infirmity of body makes them despise

mortals, but especially

women

source of gratification for

so that

them

it is

'

mammon

their idolatry of gold,

to tyrannize

over them as despotically as they can.

their love of the

all

Still,

of unrighteousness/

makes them subservient

to that all-potent sovereign, Prince Baksheesh.

"

Their contempt for the whole race of mor-

tals is proverbial,

Christians/
ride along

but especially for

You must have

upon

No

their prancing

Arab

dogs of

steeds,
all

with

passers-

Asiatic prince could possibly treat his

I

remem-

name

of that

subjects with greater imperiousness.

ber your asking me, one day, the

stately

remarked, as they

what disdain they look down upon

by.

all

eunuch

whom you

noticed ride past

ANTECEDENTS OF DAFAY.

my

59

house, last week, on a beautiful milk-white

Arab.

cannot do better than narrate his

He

history to you.

is

called Dafay, is free,

and a millionaire; but how he acquired

may

wealth

appear to you a mystery.

his

I will

enlighten you on that point.

"

There are exceptions to

all

rules,

so that

Dafay never was a woman-hater; on the con-

many of his race, he respects, nay,

them.
I know for certain that he has at

trary, like

loves

the present time several female slaves in his

service,
c

one

favourite

upon

whom

of

'),

and she

She

like a princess.

Harem

of her fond

is

ranks

as

dressed
is

his

ikbal

and waited

the mistress of the

and jealous husband

the

apartments in which are furnished in grand

style

nay, quite equal to any of the private

apartments of H. H. the Viceroy.

" Well, I

now come

to his antecedents.

belonged to a very rich

Bey

(Colonel),

He
who,

being partial to him, placed him at the head of

his

Harem.

who

The Bey had two legitimate wives,

lived together in the most cordial manner,

and contributed
happiness.

reciprocally to their master's

Dafay

fell

violently in love with one

HAREM

60

what

is still

more extraordinary,

was returned.

It was, therefore,

of them, and,
his passion

LIFE.

very natural that he should show that wife

most marked

attention,

over the other.

their

quarrels

It is

and neglect or tyrannize

not necessary that I relate

and peccadilloes

suffice

it

to

add, that the eunuch and his inamorata laid a

snare for the other wife, and then, as an excuse

had committed adultery with one of

the Bey's servants who had left, Dafay stabbed

that she

her

but

have heard

it

stated that he actually

allowed his chere amie to have the satisfaction

What

of destroying her rival herself.

the

Bey

said on his return home, I never could learn.

Certain, however,

is it

that the whole affair was

hushed up, and that the eunuch, instead of

losing his master's

good

graces, as

might have

been expected, rose higher in his favour.

"

Not long afterwards the Bey died, having

made a will, in which he bequeathed all his
property to his faithful Dafay. At the time of
his decease,

many

ugly reports were circulated,

although the will was perfectly

Bey's death very sudden.

legal,

Many

of Cairo state, that the eunuch

and the

of the gossips

became jealous

DUTIES OF THE GRAND EUNUCH.

61

that he coveted his wife,

whom

of his master

he loved most passionately

and

that, as

he had

already committed one crime for her, he threat-

ened to denounce

An

band out of the way.

at nothing,

Asiatic's love stops

and he spares no

cost to attain his

The mysterious doings

ends.

put her hus-

her, unless she

in the

Harems

are generally enveloped in impenetrable darkIt is utterly impossible for the Minister

ness.

of Justice at

any time

to

move

in such delicate

affairs.

" Shortly

afterwards

Dafay

married the

widow, and disbursed the 'talaris' (money) of

the deceased with no niggardly hand.

rumoured that he
not a syllable

is

is

fearfully jealous

It is
;

but

ever uttered for or against

his wife.

They have a numerous

that fact

speaks

family,

volumes with regard to

and
all

eunuchs."
I

found that the duties of the Viceregal

Grand Eunuch were almost legion. Independent

of his daily attendance

he read prayers to his

upon

their Highnesses,

staff of

the whole corps of eunuchs

attendants and
the younger of

HAREM

62

whom

LIFE.

he instructed, not only in their

duties,

but also in reading and transcribing the Koran.

Many

a time and oft I have heard him,

when

passing his apartment, as Dr. Herbelot has so

admirably expressed

it,

"

reading the blessed

Koran, with the seven different readings, and

telling

how

sent, at

seven

were

different messengers

seven different times, to bring seven

handfuls of seven different sorts of

from

soil,

seven different stages of the earth; she (the

earth) refusing all the

she said,

a thing as
I

found

seven messengers, for

I consent not that Allah

man/

these spectres of

all

make

so

bad

"

men most

par-

ticularly anxious to obtain every information

they could as to the manners and customs of

us unbelievers

for

whom, however,

in their

hearts they have the most sovereign contempt

and yet from

RislarAgaci,

all

tion, courtesy,

of them, but especially the

received the most

and

respect.

marked

Not the

atten-

slightest

approach to any display of familiarity, or any

overbearing behaviour, was manifested towards

me.

CHARACTER OF THE EUNUCHS.

On

63

the contrary, they were ever ready to dis-

charge

And

my commands

with alacrity and

yet I never propitiated

sheesh,

though

them with back-

have seen my Princess put purses

of sovereigns in the hands of the

as their Highnesses
to place

any

Grand Eunuch,

had expressly forbidden me

offering

on the shrine of that

potent sovereign ruler of Egypt

So

the

had the pleasure of expe-

them every

far as ^ie^ in their

politeness

and

civility.

power and they could

understand me, they supplied

cies,

men

had been led

crabbed, disagreeable apparitions I

to believe them, I

all-

so that, in-

stead of finding those phantoms of

riencing from

fidelity.

notwithstanding that

all

my

exigen-

was a Hawajee

daughter of that accursed race, one of the

banished Peris from their celestial Paradise, the
Prophet's seventh heaven

and yet that erudite

German Orientalist, Kuckert,

true Moslem believes that

tells

" In the nine heavens are eight paradises

Where

is

the ninth one

Only the blessed dwell

But blessedness dwells

In the

human

breast.

in the paradises,
in the

human

breast.

Created creatures are in the paradises,

The uncreated Maker

us that the

in the breast.

HAREM

64

LIFE.

0 man want those eight paradises,

Than be without the ninth one in thy breast.
Rather,

Given to thee are those eight paradises,

thou the ninth one hast within thy breast."

When

All the inmates of the

when young

Harems

children die, they are turned into

the flowers with which Paradise

and that birds and

of their lost
of the

spirits

lievers

them

believe that

all

decorated,

is

animals are the

spirits

which are

friends, except dogs,

departed Israelites and unbe-

hence the reason that they never allow

to caress them, or to

become domiciled

with them.

Having returned the banker

my most grateful

thanks for his kindness and attention,

his elegant

page,

who

coachman,

I entered

brougham, and, accompanied by his

seated himself on the box with the

we proceeded

along an excellent

road to the banks of the Nile, opposite Ghezire.

There

I alighted,

and was handed

the Viceregal barges

stern of
I

into one of

by the coachman,

which was a small

descended by two steps

divan, covered with red

cabin, into

around

it

at the

which

was a

and white damask.

It

was manned by twelve Arab boatmen, dressed

THE HAREM AT GHEZIRE.

wearing

ordinary Arabs, but

the

like

65

The Viceregal standard, the

crescent, floated at the stem and

tur-

everlasting

bans.

On

stern.

they rowed most vigorously, and in

less

than

ten minutes I was landed at the stairs of the

Harem
The building
exterior of

a very plain structure, the

is

which

is

painted like the trunks of

the trees at the Dutch model village of Broeck

In appearance
large pile

it

resembles the letter E, and

composed of

is

five blocks of buildings.

Proceeding to the one which faced the Kile,

I

entered

TJie

Harem

whose huge rusty hinges

in

my

grating sounds of

still

seem to creak

ears like the grinding of the barrel-

organ of an itinerant Italian

which

or

led into a courtyard, at

not

lined,

with

corps

of

airs,

and Arabs,

in the

London

immense

space

Genoa

vol. L

time

Egyptian

band playing

but with a group of hard-working

Fellahs

softest

Savoyard
that

the

infantry, with their shrill brass

opera

passed

(" sacred

the

through a small door

toiling

docks,

away

and

hundreds

like labourers

rolling into

of

bales

velvets, the costliest

of

Lyons

that
the
silkb,

HAREM

66

LIFE.

the richest French satins, most elegantly designed muslins,

gaudy-coloured Manches-

fast,

ter prints, stout Irish poplins, the finest Irish

Mechlin, Valenciennes, Honi-

linens, Brussels,

ton,

and imitation

French

silk

ribbons,

laces,

Nottingham

hose,

French and Coventry

stockings,

cases of the purest Schiedam, pipes

of spirits of wine, huge cases of fashionable

Parisian boots,

shoes,

and

slippers,

immense

chests of bonbons, in magnificent fancy-worked

cases, boxes,

and

baskets, bales of tombeki,

and

the bright golden-leaved tobacco of Is-tam-bol

(Constantinople)

Cashmere, India, French, and

Paisley shawls, of the most exquisite designs

baskets of pipe-bowls, cases of amber mouthpieces, cigarette papers,

and a whole host of

miscellaneous packages, too various to enumerate, of other

commodities, destined for the use

of the inmates of that vast conservatory of

beauty

ners.

For, be

all

supplied by His Highnesss partit

known

that the Viceroy of

ately be styled,

to you, gentle reader,'

Egypt may most appropri-

par

excellence, the

Sinbad of

the age, the merchant prince of the terrestrial

globe

but

full well

UNIFORM OF THE EUXUCHS.

"

He knows he
When forced

him take
make

cannot his treasure with

of

life's

67

bright feast an end to

His wealth then thus he gives away,

To his lovely consorts day by day."

Here
one of

was received by two young eunuchs,

whom was

attired

uniform, embroidered with

The other wore a

colour.

but

of

me most

same

of the

silk

similar

Both "sported"

red.

salaamed

a light drab

in

costume,

They

fezes.

respectfully in the Oriental

manner, by putting their fingers to their

lips,

then to the heart, and finished by touching

their foreheads.

was then ushered through another

door,

the portals of which were also guarded

by a

group of eunuchs, similarly

attired,

but whose

uniforms were most costly embroidered.

features were hideous
figures corpulent,

They

also

ferocious

their

and carriage haughty.

salaamed

Oriental style.

and

Their

me

in the

most approved

Thence passing along a marble

passage I entered a large stone hall, which was

supported by huge granite

me

to the

grand

staircase,

by the Chief Eunuch, who

F 2

pillars,

where
is

which led

was received

called Kislar

HAREM

68

LIFE.

Agaci, "the captain of the

girls/'

and some-

times Dar-us-seadet Agaci, "the guardian of

the Mansion of Bliss/'

This giant spectre of a

wards of
caste, for

six feet high),

man (for he was

who quite belied

he was a pleasing,

affable,

uphis

yet noble-

looking personage, having a most diminutive

head,

almost as tiny as that of

master of English composition,

the

De

great

Quincey,

"

The Confessions of

an Opium Eater " (and who,

like that marvellous

the celebrated writer of

genius, I soon found out,

had a mania

for eat-

ing and smoking narcotics), advanced towards

me, made his salaam, and ushered me, the hated

despised Giaour into the noble marble hall of

the Harem, which was then for the

polluted

by the

footsteps

of the unbeliever.

The scene around me was

so

singular

strange, that I paused to contemplate

hall
tiful

time

first

it.

and

The

was of vast dimensions, supported by beauporphyry

pillars,

and the marble

floor

was covered with fine matting. I was now

handed over to the Lady Superintendent of
the

slaves

very

wealthy

woman,

about

twenty-four years of age, with fine dark blue

THE LADY SUPERINTENDENT.

eyes, aquiline nose, large

69

mouth, and of middle

stature.

She was

and

attired in a coloured

trousers, over

muslin dress

which she wore a quilted

lavender-coloured satin paletot.

Her head was

covered with a small blue gauze handkerchief,

tied

round

it,

and

tucked up under

in the centre of the forehead,

a lovely natural dark red

it,

She wore a beautiful large spray of

rose.

diamonds, arranged in the form of the flower,

"forget

me

not,"

which hung down

like

tendrils below her ear on the left side.

three

Large

diamond drops were suspended from her ears,

and her fingers were covered with numerous
rings, the

most

brilliant of

which were a large

and a

beautiful sapphire.

rose pink diamond,

Her

feet

were encased in white cotton stock-

ings and black patent leather Parisian shoes.

Her name was Anina she had formerly been
;

an Ikbal

" favourite."

a host of slaves,

all

Beside her were grouped

of

whom

appeared to be

Arabs, and whose condition approximates to

that of domestic servants in Europe, with this
difference, that

of the

they cannot quit the precincts

Harem without

permission, but which

is

HAREM

70
often given to

them

LIFE.

to go shopping,

which they

do unaccompanied by any of the eunuchs.

They

are

often sent

to

schools

some of

them can read Arabic and Turkish none, howAs a general rule, they are
ever, can write.
condemned

to

celibacy,

happens that they are

but

freed,

it

frequently

given away in

marriage, and, most horrible to relate, instances

have been known of their having been united

They amass great

own children.
dint
hoarding
by
of
up the backsheesh
wealth,
which has been distributed to them on grand
The black slaves, who are chiefly
occasions.
natives of Nubia and Ethiopia, are generally
employed in the mean and laborious duties of
the household. They never obtain their liberty,
to

their

but pass their old age in a state of idleness.

The nurses
exception,

pated,

the

to

the Viceroyal family are

since they are

and many

slaves

who

of'

are

them

an

invariably emancioften

marry some of

engaged in the out-door

work.

The Lady Superintendent now took me by

the hand, led me up two flights of stairs, covered with thick rich Brussels carpet

of

DESCRIPTION OF THE APARTMENTS.

most costly

description,

liant in colours as the

and

dewy moss

The walls were

Water.

as soft

71

and

bril-

of Virginia

Then

plain.

we

passed through a suite of several rooms, ele-

which stood long

gantly

carpeted,

divans,

some of which were covered with white

in all of

and others with yellow and crimson

the doorways

hung wide

looped up with heavy

correspond, with
each,

satin

damask

silk cords

richly gilded

Over

satin.

and

curtains,
tassels to

cornices

over

and the windows which overlooked the

Nile had Venetian shutters attached to

them

outside. Against the walls were fixed numerous

silver

chandeliers,

with

candles,

made

in the

each

side

each

containing

frosted-coloured

six

glass

shades,

form of tulips over them.

of the

room

large

wax

mirrors

On
were

fixed in the wall, each of

which rested on a

marble-topped console

supported by gilded

legs.

The only other

table,

articles of furniture that

were scattered about the apartment were a

dozen

common

English

cane-bottom

Icursi,

" chairs."

Across one apartment a line was suspended,

on which hung the Princess's jackets, ward-

HAREM

72

robes being totally

LIFE.

unknown within the precincts

of this " Enchanted Castle."

of another were piled

Against the walls

up the

was covered over with a

beds,

which heap

rich silk coverlet.

On

the divan was placed a silver tray (as the use

of both toilet-tables and wash-hand-stands
totally

unknown, containing the

was

Princess's

These merely consisted of a

toilet requisites.

plain black india-rubber dressing-comb, a white

ivory-handled

hair-brush,

a very

large-sized

small-tooth-comb, two tooth-brushes, a glass

box, containing tooth dentriflce from Paris, a

small round silver bowl,

into which poured

water with which Her

the perfumed

(rose)

Highness, the

mother of the Grand Pacha,

dressed her hair, the substitute for

tum

(neither of

which

the Viceregal family),

essences, all of

is

oil

ever used

and a large

or

poma-

by any of
bottle of

which were covered over with a

transparent crimson silk gauze cloth, bespangled

with gold crescents, and bordered with gold

fringe an inch deep.

In another apartment stood a large mahogany

cupboard, containing the fumigating powders

which are burnt in the rooms, dried

fruits,

THE PRINCESS EPOUSE.

73

soaps, essences, boots, shoes, quantities of castoff

wearing apparel, Her Highness s cash-box,

a small black ebony casket inlaid with gold,

packets of cigarettes, cigarette-papers, tobacco,

pipe-bowLs, silver braziers and dishes, zurfs, both
in japan, china,

At

in fact,

it

was a

" curiosity shop."

a smaller apartment,

(so called

Princess Epouse.

She

handsome blonde, with

rather large

satin, sat

was

is

covered

H. H. the

a wee dwarf of a

fine blue eyes, short nose,

mouth with

a fine set of teeth, ex-

pressive countenance, but rather sharp

agreeable voice ; her hair

fashion,

where, on the

gem ") which was

faded yellow

dirty,

rooms

from the Persian word dive,

" fairy,

signifying

with

Jewellery cases,

extremity of those

the

led into

divan

silver.

and a complete miscellany of sundry

candles,
articles

and

was cut

and

dis-

in the Savoyard

with two long plaits behind, which

were turned round, over the small brown gauze

handkerchief she wore round her head, in which

were placed,

like a band,

seven large diamond

flies.

She was

attired in a dirty, crumpled, light-

coloured muslin dress and trousers, sat

la

HAREM

74

LIFE.

Turque, doubled up like a clasped

Her waist was

cigarette.

encircled with a white gauze

having

handkerchief,

knife, with-

smoking a

out shoes or stockings,

the

four

broidered with gold thread.

em-

corners

was fastened

It

round, so as to leave two ends hanging

Her

like the lappet of a riding-habit.

down

feet

were

encased in babouches, " slippers without heels."

By

her side sat H. H. the Grand Pacha Ibra-

him, her son, so styled after the manner adopted

by the renowned Mahomet Ali with the Princess

Nuzley, "Nuzley

Hanem."

He was

dressed

in the uniform of an officer of the Egyptian

infantry.
his

On

his

head he wore the

hung a

shoulder

silver-gilt

which was suspended a small

fez

across

from

chain,
silver

square

box, beautifully chased with cabalistic figures

of men, beasts,

and

trees,

enclosed inside which

was another smaller box made of cypress-wood

which contained verses of the Koran.
about five years

Arab

nose,

old, of

and rather

He was

dark complexion, short

tall

for his age,

and

looked the very picture of a happy, roundfaced

room

cheruk

On

perceiving

me

enter

the

THE LADIES OF THE HAEEM.

"

He

smiled as

if his

soul

was soaring

To heaven, and heaven's God adoring

And who can tell what visions high

May

when

but

gave

full

state, as

young

prince's blue eye

"
!

I approached towards the divan, he

proof that his lungs were in a healthy-

he

his black

bless that

75

set

up a most hideous

head in his mothers

lap,

shriek, buried

who laughed

most heartily at the strange reception His Highness

had thought proper

to bestow

upon

his

and

on

future governess.

In front

the

of

Divan, behind,

each side of me, stood a bevy of the ladies

of the

Harem, assuredly not the types of

Moore's

Tom

"Peris of the East," as described in

such glowing colours in his far-famed " Lalla

Rookh," for

failed to discover the slightest

trace of loveliness in

any one of them.

On

the contrary, most of their countenances were

pale as ashes, exceedingly disagreeable

globular in figure

gave
all

me

the idea of large full

were passee.

moons

as

as

nearly

the witches in the

opening scene in Macbeth, which

at,

and

Their photographs were as

hideous and hag-like

wondered

fat

in short, so rotund, that they

is

not to be

some of them had been the

HAREM

76

LIFE.

favourites of Ibrahim Pacha,

vous ?

It is their

"Kismet"

But que

voulez-

to remain for ever

They

within the four walls of the Harem.

think that
" Fate

is

a hand.

It lays

two

fingers

on the eyes,

Two on the ears, one on the mouth, and silent cries

Be ever still
Then down in endless sleep woman
!

'

'

It has

lies."

descended to them from primeval days

from the time

Some wore

of the Patriarch

Abraham.

white linen dresses and trousers.

Their hair and their finger-nails were died red

with henna;
hags, in the

many

of

them looked

old

most extended acceptation of the

Some wore

expression.

like

the tarboosh, round

which they bound coloured gauze handker-

They had handsome gold watches

chiefs.

tucked into their waist-bands, which were similar

to that

of

Her

Highness's,

which hung

suspended from their necks by thick massive

gold chains.

Their fingers were covered with

a profusion of diamond,
rings

in their ears

precious stones,
in silver

emerald, and ruby

were earrings of various

all set

in the old antique style

while others only wore plain gauze

INTRODUCTION TO THE PRINCESS.

77

They had

handkerchiefs round their heads.

Behind stood

been favourites in their youth.

half a dozen white slaves, chiefly Circassians,

attired

trousers

in

coloured muslins, their dress

being of the same pattern.

head gear was similar to that of the

and
Their

ladies of

the Harem, and the ornaments which adorned

their persons

were equally as

costly.

The Mistress Superintendent introduced me

to H. H. the Princess Epouse,

who kept me

standing a considerable time, while she fixed

her eyes steadfastly upon

me and

smiled.

HAREM

78

LIFE.

CHAPTER
The
I

VI.

private installation having taken place,

Her
stairs by

was conducted by Anina, according

Highness

s orders,

down

the flight of

to

which we had ascended on a tour of inspection

We

through the Princess's suite of rooms.

pro-

ceeded across a small garden, then along two

large

stone halls, around

which were ranged

divans, similarly covered with worsted damask,

on which the slaves lounged about in the day

and

slept at night.

at each end.

On

one of which

is

is

large deal table stood

each side are several rooms, in

kept the drinking water.

placed in large earthen

in size

and

jars,

pattern, olive-jars

resembling, both

the key of which

is

in the charge of a black slave,

is

to dispense it daily.

their Highnesses' coffee.

This

whose

In another

Another

is

office it

is

made

appropri-

THE LAUNDRY.
ated as the dormitory of the

79

German laundry-

maid and needlewoman.

Thence we passed along a stone passage
which leads to Her Highness's bath-room, a
small apartment entered

by a

red-baize covered

door, studded with brass

nails.

The marble bath

is

both long and wide, with taps for cold and

The water used

hot water.
boils, into

which

for bathing actually

when
when they

their Highnesses enter

taking their baths.

This only occurs

have cohabited with the Viceroy, and not

or even at

any other time,

have so erroneously
poets

is

They

stated.

daily,

many

authors

The bath

of the

as so

a myth.
are attended

soap their persons

the bath, on

by two white

all

retiring

slaves,

who

over before they enter

from which

they are

Leading
shampooed and highly perfumed.
is
small
bath-room
a
dressingthe
of
out
room, having a divan around

in

covered with

Here a

slave holds a toilet-glass

her hand, while

Her Highness, seated on

red velvet.
.

it

the divan, dresses herself.

Proceeding along a stone passage

we

passed

into another pile of buildings, the basement of

HAREM

80

which was used

LIFE.

as the laundry, in

which stood

numerous wooden tanks placed on the stones,

as the slaves, who wash every thing in cold
water, perform that operation squatting on the

After the clothes have been rinsed, but

floor.

without blue being mixed in the water, they are

hung up on

lines in a large stone yard.

On

Sundays H. H. the Viceroy's clothes are washed.

Mondays
the

Her Highness
Tuesday for that of Her

appropriated for

are

first wife's linen.

Highness the Princess Epouse (the second

Wednesday
Thursday

for

Her Highness the

for that of

third wife's.

H. H. the Grand Pacha

Friday, being the Turkish and

Ibrahim.

tian Sabbath, because their prophet

was

On

conceived

that

day,

is

Egyp-

Mahomet

kept holy.

Saturday the linen of the ladies of the

Harem, the
is

on

wife).

washed.

and the domestic

slaves

The ironing and getting-up

of the

children,

linen takes place in the hall on the deal tables

but

into a

shall

minute

After

have occasion hereafter to enter

detail of that process.

we had

inspected these apartments, I

was led up a noble marble staircase covered

with gaudy coloured oil-cloth, into the suite of

THE "CAFESS"

CAGE.

81
use of

my

pupil,

H. H. the Grand Pacha Ibrahim,

who

was,

will be observed, not domiciled in the

apartments

it

Harem;

appropriated

to

the

must inform

although, I

my

was formerly the custom both

it

readers,

in

Egypt

as well as at Constantinople, to have all the

up

Princes brought

apartment in the

in a part of that isolated

Harem

called Cafess 'Cage/

which was surrounded by

lofty walls.

There the Princes were kept from their

cradle,

without holding any communication with the

outer world, or any officers of the palace, in

order that every ambitious and

magnanimous

thought might be radically extirpated in the

society of those

Thugs of the Ottoman Empire

the mutes;

those phantoms of humanity, the

eunuchs (who

now act

by the mutes,

as there are but one or

the part formerly played

two in

the palace at Constantinople, and not one in

Egypt)

hags of

women

disgusting harridans
aspiring slaves.

most

and

lascivious

and lewd, intriguing and

Thus both sultans and

vice-

roys had no cause of fear.

From
no

this gilded

better,

vol. L

dungeon, for in fact

it

was

the successor to the throne issued

HAREM

82

upon the death

LIFE.

of the reigning sultan, of course

in utter ignorance, with no knowledge of

and of

affairs,

and quite prepared

upon the throne,

learn anything

was too

as it

and the

men

to vegetate

late for

him

slothfulness in

to

which

he had been brought up too deeply rooted in

his

of

mind to be
them became

So that mauy

eradicated.
cruel,

others besotted, whi]e

the rest of the Princes continued to vegetate

remainder of their existence in the

for the

where they were taught,

cage,

as

an antidote

against melancholy madness, some mechanical

Many

art.

others in

were employed in learning turnery,

making bows and arrows; some

in

carving tortoise-shell and ebony, embroidering

The

morocco

leather

generally

amused themselves by transcribing

the

or

muslin.

cleverest

Koran and other canonical works.

Whenever

happened, (which, however, was

occurrence,) that

of rare
called

it

upon

to hold

they passed, as
light

it

any of them were

any distinguished

were, from

post,

darkness into

were generally overawed by the despot-

ism of those around them

managed

and when they

to shake off that thraldom, they be-

THE PRINCESS'S APARTMENTS.

came steeped in cruelty and brutal
which the erudite Dr. Abbott, in
Egypt, has

left

most painful yet

was then conducted

suite

his

83
lust,

of

work on

faithful records.

into the Princess's

of apartments, which consisted of

two

large saloons, covered with magnificent Bruscarpet,

sels

but completely besprinkled, as

it

were, with spots of white wax, which had been

suffered to fall

from the candles which the slaves

Around them were

placed divans covered with red satin damask
the window and door hangings of the same matecarry about in their fingers.

rial

a very large mirror, reaching

the ceiling,

and

fruits,

down from

which was painted with flowers

with the crescent, and numerous

warlike instruments, and music, placed in each

corner, to the top of a

on gilded

legs,

marble table supported

on each of which stood a

chandelier containing eight

wax

silver

candles, with

red-coloured glass shades covered with painted

flowers.

Out of each of these rooms doors opened

into seven others,

of

the

young

which are the dormitories

Princesses,

the

daughters

of

H. H. the Viceroy, and the ladies of the Harem

G 2

HAREM

84

On

the right-hand side of the

first

room was

bedroom which was assigned me

the small

my

LIFE.

as

apartment, and which was to serve me,

like
" The cobbler's stall,
For chamber, drawing-room, and

and

into

which

my

all,"

guide conducted me.

It

was carpeted, having a divan covered with

green and red striped worsted damask, which

window, which

underneath the

stood

manded

coup-devil

fine

of

com-

gardens

the

attached to the palace and H. H. the Viceroy's

The hangings

pavilion.

and

windows were

The

furniture

of

consisted

of the double doors

same

the

of

material.

plain

green-

painted iron bedstead, the bars of which had

been

never

fastened,

and pieces of

like the handles of brooms,

were placed
cotton

across,

mattresses

that

were

bar,

the two thin

laid

bolsters,

upon

it.

nor any

but as substitutes were placed three

bed-linen

thin

cushions

flat

and an iron

to support

There were neither pillows,

wood,

not a blanket, but two old

worn-out wadded coverlets lay upon the bed.

MY BEDROOM.

8.3

Not the sign of a dressing-table or a chair of

any description, and a total absence of all the
appendages necessary for a lady's bedroom
not even a vase.

Certes

there stood

within

that narrow cupboard -like uncomfortable-look-

ing chamber a Parisian chest of drawers (rather

a wonder, for the Turkish

and Egyptian

ladies

invariably place their body-linen, &c. in the

yonks, cupboards, constructed in the walls of
their rooms)

having a marble

up washhand-stand,

top,

and a shut-

correspond

to

with an

elegantly-painted ewer and basin of porcelain.

gazed at the accommodation assigned to

me

with surprise

expected,

as

and

yet,

what could
which

every apartment

have

had

passed through was totally destitute of everything that ought to have been placed therein

Not a

footstool,

no pianos, nor music-stools

not a picture adorned the walls.

Bower

of

midable
pudiated

Bliss "

Being

Ali,

Prophet

who

so

boldly

Mahomet's

find

The

me

re-

doctrine,

"that pictures were an abomination,"

but natural for

"

of a descendant of the for-

Mahomet
the

it

was

to imagine that I should

some beautiful paintings decorating the

HAREM

86

But

apartments.

principal

Not a

there.

LIFE.
no,

none

hung

single article of vertu graced

the rich console tables.

In short, not any of the splendid rooms of

the Enchanted Palace of the Croesus of the

nineteenth century contained anything, either

for

ornament or

use,

except the bare decora-

them seemed
me nothing more than places in which to
In

tions.

down and
bles

and

fact,

in

the whole of

which to vegetate, aided by

and

drinkables,

sleep.

to
lie

eata-

They were even

destitute of soofras, " tables,"

whose shapes are

very rude, height about a

foot,

wide as a plate

breadth as

just large enough to hold a

Turkish coffee-cup, "Jindjar" or the bowl of a

pipe, and, although inlaid

with small variegated

pieces of mother-of-pearl, are only pretty, not

having anything rich or elegant about them

still,

the

none were to be
elegant

manner

of the nobility of
off

in

seen.

Accustomed to

which drawing-rooms

my own

country are set

with elegant fauteuils, superb occasional

chairs,

recherche nicknacks, as well as a whole

host of most costly things, they presented a

most beggarly and empty appearance.

The

87

FURNITURE.

whole of the Harem looked

partially furnished

which
its

house only

like a

in short, like a dwelling

either the poverty or the niggardness of

proprietor

had prevented from being properly

furnished.

At

first I

simony

thought this proceeded from par-

for well

do we know that a miser

and H. H. the Viceroy,

racter of a father,

like

his strange cha-

Ibrahim Pacha, who was one

of the most notorious

day

usurers of his

loves bright golden sovereigns as dearly as his

life

for

u If the sun on his table-cloth instead of dry bread

In

but

all

lay,

the world none "would behold again the light of day;"

afterwards learned that

Turque, for elegance

it

was &

la

quite eschewed

is

mode
by

all

true Ottomans.
It

most decidedly evinces a great superiority

in remarkable characters,

who have

revelled in

the midst of profusion, to be able

like that

departed warrior of the nineteenth century,

the renowned Arthur,

Duke

of

Wellington,

who

expired in his small apartment at AVal-

mer

Castle, plainly fitted

up with that camp

HAREM

88

which had

furniture

LIFE.

been his only luxury

throughout his most memorable campaigns

resign,

to

without a murmur, almost every luxury

and convenience.

dependence of externals
things that brings

a healthy in-

exhibits

It

but

a state of

is

it

women down

to the level of

the brute.

me

Eetracing our footsteps Anina led

into

that vast, regal-looking chamber, the Hall of

Audience of the Castle of Indolence

was much more spacious and

for

it

than the

loftier

Long Room in the Custom House in London

The floor was beautifully enamelled, as it were,
with that native product of

the

East,

glowing alphabet of that mystic code of

signals,

woven on the

the language of flowers,

the

finest

carpeting which the looms of Belgium ever

The

wrought.
sitely

the

painted

Imperial

immense

lofty

with Egyptian
saloons

of

was

as

exqui-

landscapes as

Versailles,

and an

hung suspended from

The walls were papered

gilt chandelier

the rich corniced roof.

with

ceiling

floral

designs, all

in

unison with that

lovely bouquet, that blossomed, as

neath the impious footsteps of

my

it

were, be-

unbelieving

HALL OF AUDIENCE.

89

self.

The hangings of the

noble

windows, overlooking those perfumed

lofty

doors and

gardens which had never before been trodden

by any
"

"

dog of

With blooming

And

a Christian

splendours

"

where, above

God had sown

in the flower-cup of space

had hung

creation's flower-bed,
it

overhead

were of the most costly description.

composed of rich yellow

satin

overtopped with elaborately gilded

From

heavy bullion

tassels.

jected

chandeliers,

silver

"

They were

damask

and looped up with massive

them

curtains,
cornices,

silk cords and

the walls

ornamented

pro-

with

coloured tulip-shaped shades, the transparent

wax

candles

forth

in

which,

when

lighted,

threw

a most agreeable pink shade over the

whole of this superb and princely reception

saloon.

Long

divans, covered with rich satin

damask, bespangled with the eternal gold and

silver

crescents glittering about in all direc-

tions, like stars

" In the ethereal firmament on high,'*

were placed under the whole length of the

windows.

HAREM

90

LIFE.

Here, indeed, might be seen a few signs of

elegance and refinement, as numerous richlyinlaid console tables, which, in point of beauty

workmanship and

of

design,

might vie in

splendour with those in the Pitti Palace at

Florence, supported on richly-gilded legs, were
scattered about, on which stood several beauti-

Sevres and Japan

fully-painted
filled

with most lovely nosegays

Ah
as the

gentle reader

hand

of no

possibly have

china vases,

they were bouquets such

European Court

arranged

florist

could

they were, in

fact,

mosaics of petalled gems, works of

art,

touches

of genius, brilliant gew-gaw, toy-like bouquets,

which would outvie the far-famed

taste of the

flower-girls of lovely Florence, with all nature's

fair

charms at

their

which only the

Harem

(for

that

command

fingers of the
is

to

construct,

ladies

of the

one of the special duties

they perform) could possibly mingle together.

The

harmonious

colours,

the

blending

amalgamation

of
of

the

the

brilliant

delicious

fragrance of their powerful perfumes produced

nosegays which, while they charmed the eye,

emitted forth a fragrance that quite intoxi-

HALL OF AUDIENCE.

91

Between them were placed

cated the senses.

handsomely painted Japan china transparent

drinking cups, similar in shape to cordial vessels,
standing in saucers as large as dessert plates.

In the centre stood mechanical Parisian

timepieces, under large glass shades,

Turkish time, which

sunset,

and which

timepiece at the
is also set

is

counted from sunrise to

are daily regulated

Grand Mosque

down

and

half-hours.

Im-

to the floor.

horror of horrors

innovation of a dozen

bottom

which

mirrors reached from the top of

gilt

But, oh

at Cairo,

in lieu of striking the hours,

or chiming the quarters

the ceiling

by the

according to the setting of the sun.

They played tunes

mense

gilt

marking

chairs,

some of the

on which

ladies of the

establish themselves,

common

and

the European

English cane-

afterwards beheld

Harem endeavour
at

to

which exhibition

not only myself, but H. H. the Viceroy and

H. H. the Grand Pacha, could not refrain from

laughing outright

as one of their legs

down, looking most miserably

the other sought in vain for
itself

up upon the

forlorn, while

room

chair like a

hung

to double

hen at

roost,

HAREM

92

LIFE.

This was not, most assuredly, in keeping with

magnificent decorations

the
hall

and

of

this

palatial

this constituted all the furniture.

It

looked bare, vacant, and miserably empty.

Upon

re-entering

the apartment, I beheld

H. H. the Princess Epouse (the second wife),

and

whom

I designated, in contra-distinction

to the other

attached

two wives,
her

to

suite,

my

Princess, as I

seated

was

on the divan,

doubled up like a clasp-knife, attired in Turkish

costume, very

gauze handkerchief
fastened with

dressed,

wearing the

wound round

her head, and

plainly

a band, containing

Moslem s magical number,

as

seven (the

they believe there

are no less than seven heavens) large

pins,

many

forming as

Egypt,

scourges

of

flies.

She was smoking a

have of

of those

diamond

late years

cigarette, for cigarettes

almost superseded the use of

pipes in this Elysium of Love.

expense of those

costly

Perhaps the

amber-mouthed and

jewel-studded stems used by the

elite of

Turkish and Egyptian ladies of rank,

have contributed in no
innovation

for

economy

slight

the

may

degree to that

in the East appears

CIGARETTE-SMOKING.
to

Her Highness

be the order of the day.

was smoking
to puff

and

away

so

it

most cleverly: she really seemed

at it as if it

evidently was

covered that
of

it

my

were her amusement,

but yet I soon dis-

Princess, like the generality

honourable Turks, was

all

93

the

tobacco in the form of cigarettes.

slave
I

to

cannot

help thinking that such constant use of the

weed

vitiates their character,

and renders

stag-

nant the small stock of stability with which

the Almighty has

both

sex.

endowed the Ottomans of

Well, there she

sat,

just like one

of the porcelain figures which ornament the

chimney pieces in Germany. Not a muscle did

she

move

figure

to

she

looked like wax-work, and her

would have made an excellent addition

Madame Tussaud's celebrities.

How much did I regret that I had

not been

taught the art of taking photographs, for then

I

could have daguerreotyped the whole of the

inmates of the Harems of Egypt and ConstanIt

tinople.

traying,
East.

was an opportunity missed of por-

from

This

is

life,

the caged beauties of the

much

other European lady

to
is

be regretted, as no
ever again likely to

HAREM

94

By

have the chance.

her side sat the darling

of her soul, H. H. the

his person

LIFE.

Grand Pacha Ibrahim,

unadorned by any jewel, except the

blue turquoise bead in the tassel of his

fez.

Several of the young Princesses, the daughters

of their Highnesses

The

close to her.

first

tall

plexion,

brown

and slender in

in white linen

sat

was about

Her name was Niemour

sixteen years of age.

she was

and second wives,

eldest of these

figure, of

eyes, short nose,

dark com-

and was

attired

her feet were encased in light-

coloured French boots, her hair was bundled

up,

uncombed, into a dark

head she wore a

plume of red
this

and round her

circlet of blue velvet,

with a

feathers hanging over the left

She wore no ornaments.

side of her face.

Around

net,

group of the Viceregal family

stood about fifty slaves, in the form* of a semicircle.

There Arabs, Abyssinians, Ethiopians,

and Nubians, were

all

mingled indiscriminately

together, dressed in different coloured muslins,

all

wearing handkerchiefs on their heads, and

attired in satin, stuff,

and

silk paletots of

every colour in the rainbow

formed a complete kaleidoscope.

almost

in short they

Their hands

PRIXCESS EPOUSE.

and

On

95

were most profusely ornamented.

ears

the former they wore numerous rings of

diamonds, and other valuable stones; in the

latter, large brilliant earrings,

which were tied

from ear to ear at the back of the head, with a

piece of twisted coloured cord, so as to prevent

them from

them

losing

as they are placed in

the ear without rings, and hang

down upon a

piece of twisted gold wire, in shape

watch-hook.

like

All had valuable gold watches,

which were suspended from

their

necks by

thick massive gold chains stuck in their waist-

They presented a

bands.

H. H.
her

my

toilet,

Princess,

as to

me

singular contrast to

who perhaps when making

that memorable day, thought

that
" If

mean

or costly dresses through this globe

Decide the rank in which beings are enrolled

Why, then we '11 clothe the wolf in satin robe,

The

As
rose

alligator in fine silk enfold."

approached, H. H. the Princess Epouse

from

occupy her

the

divan,

seat, and'

motioned

thus was

stalled as governess to

to

me

to

officially in-

H. H. the Grand Pacha

Ibrahim, the infant son of H. H. Ismael Pacha,

Viceroy of Egypt.

HAREM

96

LIFE.

CHAPTEE
As soon

as

the

quitted

VII.

H. H. the Princess Epouse had

" apartment/'

oda,

was

rounded by the entire motley group of

hands, others

some knelt and kissed

my

knees,

squatted themselves
ladies of the

down

Harem

all

kissed

All of a

my

sudden

ing upwards of

at

patted

my

"Koneiis

" Pretty

Pretty "

was

me on

Beautiful

Some
which

of

me

and

exclaiming simul-

Koneiis

While a whole chorus

shouted forth, " Gurzel

ful

the back,

electrified at hear-

Qui-yis

The

feet.

cheeks.

fifty voices

taneously,

my

and many of them

a sign of their pleasure at seeing

almost

slaves,

Most of them assumed

both black and white.

singular gestures

sur-

Gurzel

"

" Beauti-

them took up the black straw-hat

had taken

off

and

laid

down upon

the

97

LUNCHEON.

my

divan at

hand

from

This, they passed

side.

to hand, gazing with pleasure

and de-

light at that specimen of English manufacture.

After

this

they examined the whole

costume from head to

attract their notice the
I wore,

sized one

which was
;

foot.

of

my

What seemed

most was the

to

crinoline

by no means a

large-

and yet many Turkish and Egyp-

tian ladies of the present

day may be seen in

the streets of Alexandria and Constantinople

walking about in that appendage.

At

the earnest request of some of the ladies

of the Harem, I rose from

up and down that noble

my

seat,

hall,

and walked

in order that

how European ladies

paced up and down their rooms.
they might see

generally

Anina, thinking that I must require some re-

freshment after

my journey from

her hands, which

tian

manner of

white slaves

left

is

Cairo, clapped

the Turkish and Egyp-

calling domestics,

when two

the room, but soon returned,

accompanied by two other black

slaves,

carried in their hands a silver tray, on

who

which

was placed a kebab, a small piece of mutton

on a silver skewer, which had been broiled
vol. t

HAREM

98

upon charcoal almost

LIFE.

to

cinder.

highly spiced and sugared.

"white

by

Arab

was

It

flat

cake of

was placed

bread, as salt as brine,

There were no cruets, nor sauce, nor

it.

gravy of any kind, but a knife and plated

This they placed upon a soofra, at the

fork.

side of the divan.

While

was endeavouring

to partake of this

specimen of viceregal hospitality

had

for I

been so surfeited with food cooked d VArabe

at the banker's, that
it

they kept gazing

my
at

heart turned against

me

much

in as

aston-

ishment as a child looks at the wild beasts at

their feeding time in the Zoological

Gardens in

the Kegent's Park, and watched the manner in

which

used

my

knife

and fork and

nnpalateable refreshment, as

if

ate

my

had been a

wild animal out of the depths of an Indian

forest.

After I had partaken of a few mouthfuls,

I

made

time

a sign that I had finished, for at that

was unacquainted

either with the Arabic

or Turkish languages, both of which, however,

I

picked up in a very short space of time.

Then a

jincljan,

small cup,

of the

finest

THE PRINCE'S AMUSEMENT.

Mocha

gold zarf was served me,

coffee in a

and a handful of

cigarettes,

Not having

fashionable habit, for

Continent, even

and English

Italian,

Spanish,

smoking,

me on

as yet acquired the

with the

fraternized

and Portuguese

ladies),

of

committed a

breach

of

far

Oriental etiquette as to decline the

fragrant

weed, notwithstanding that Her Highness

Princess

"

had sent them

come accustomed

my

side,

"

my

to me.

H. H. the Grand Pacha, who had

by

the American, Eussian,

have

to

so

to

(who in that respect appear

ladies

years

of the golden

has become one on the

it

among

of late

made

handed

leaf tobacco of Stamboul,

silver tray.

99

now

be-

me, sat quietly enough

to

playing with the

hung suspended from

knowing that I should

my

charms that

watch-guard;

for,

find the meanest of the

slaves bedecked with jewels of costly price,

had made up

jewelry,

my

and

position

my

mind not

to dress as neatly

with his

from his

left

wear

my
as

would admit.

Soon His Highness became

toys, rose

to

and simply

seat,

took

tired of those

me by

hand, while one of his

the hand,

little sisters

HAREM

100

LIFE.

down-stairs,

They led
saying that they would take

for a benich,

"promenade," as they termed

clasped the other tightly in hers.

me
me

AYe accordingly proceeded across the small

it.

garden, to the hard, sandy promenade on the

banks of the

Nile.

was now styled the Cocana, "lady," and

was attended by the two usual male attendants
I

Grand Pacha, one of

of H. H. the

whom was

named Eeschid, and the other a Greek,

by name, a man about fifty years of
who had originally been a merchant, and

Turk,

Spiraki
age,

was in the

Both were dressed

Pacha.
coats,

on

service of the late Viceroy, Said

in

black

frock

buttoned up to the chin, and wore fezes

their heads.

These,

who walked behind

myself and the Viceregal children, were

lowed by two

soldiers,

who kept

fol-

at a respectful

distance.

Scarcely, however,

nade,

when

Spiraki,

had

I reached the

bad French, approached

informed

me

placed in

my

prome-

who spoke most wretched

that, as

chamber,

me, salaamed, and

my

penates had been

could return, as he

would take charge of H. H. the Grand Pacha,

and the

little

Princess his

sister.

Ibrahim's head nurse.

Consequently

my

I retraced

my

I entered

and

steps alone,

passed into the reception hall

had

101

but scarcely

chamber, when His Higli-

dada, whose name was Shaytan,

ness's nurse,

She was

bounced into the apartment.

an

Ethiopian, as black as ebony, having the usual

negro

Her

with very

features,

hair,

which was

short, plaited into

like

broad

large

wool

itself,

was cut

rows round her head, over

which she wore a coloured handkerchief.

was scarred with three

face

Her

large incisions

on

Her countenance was one of the

cunning, and malicious it is pos-

each cheek.

most

lips.

artful,

sible to conceive

she was, in

fact,

an admirable

type of the lowest caste negress to be found

in Ethiopia.

She was

ungovernable temper.

afflicted

seemed to be depicted in her

an enigma

my

to

with a most

Kevenge

me how H.H.

face,

and hatred
and

it

was

the Viceroy, or

Princess, could possibly have selected such

a creature to nurse

my

pupil.

She was accompanied by half a dozen black

slaves,

tures,

certainly not very prepossessing crea-

but at

all

than her hideous

events rather more

self.

It

sightly

appeared that they

HAREM

102

had been employed

Upon

the room.

stood

by while

at both

LIFE.

seeing

me

luggage in

them

the whole of

my

arranged

my

in placing

things, staring

myself and luggage as

if

been imported from the Gold Coast.

had

just

Assuredly

both myself, habiliments, manners, habits, and

customs were a source of great novelty and

amusement

to them, so that I

made

all

due

allowance for their curiosity, and took their

good

inquisitiveness in

part.

After having satisfied their innate desire of

peeping and prying into every trunk, and handling

some of the apparel

salaamed and

left

me

had unpacked, they

to myself, for

which kind-

ness I really felt thankful.

I

my

disgust and dis-

that,

although I held

can scarcely describe

appointment on finding

the responsible office of institutrice to a prince,

the only legitimate son of the wealthiest prince

in

the

afforded

universe,

me was

the

sole

accommodation

a small, wretchedly-furnished

dormitory, such a chamber as the lady's-maid

of

any of the wives of our wealthy commoners

would not have

I was,

slept in

without a chair to

two
sit

nights.

There

upon, or a table

DORMITORY INCONVENIENCES.
to write on,

with barely room to dress

and

in,

make myself

totally destitute of anything to

comfortable

103

not even the convenience of what

the French term a vase

was such a very

It

what

different reception

had looked forward

that,

to,

thought of the comfortable home

my own
I

and

at Mr. B.

German

his

help giving vent to

myself upon
it

had

left in

native land, and the kind attention

had received

self

when

to

s,

hands of him-

at the

housekeeper, I could not

my

feelings,

my hard pallet. Ah

as I

threw

gentle reader,

was as hard as a board, and would have

dis-

graced the meanest cottage of our humblest

peasant; and
I

had never

wished a thousand times that

set foot

within the precincts of the

Harem.
It

had just struck

six,

European time, when

Shaytan, the head-nurse, entered

my room

most

me that H. H.
me to take the

unceremoniously, and informed

the Princess Epouse desired

Grand Pacha

for a

Tired, vexed,
attired myself,
hall,

walk into the garden,

and annoyed

as I was, I hastily

proceeded into the reception-

and, taking the

little

prince

by

his left

HAREM

104

LIFE.

hand, I descended to the promenade, accom-

Hence we passed

panied by the usual retinue.

through a small wooden gate, then across a

garden,

all railed

in with light iron fences, to

another gate which led into the garden,

water,

having in
with a

round with iron fencing,

railed

also
its

par

which was a square sheet of

in

excellence,

centre a

winch

terrace,

broad marble

wooden pagoda,

steps,

is

encircled

ascended by three

with four large lions at

each corner of the structure, from the mouths

of which issued forth volumes of water.

pleasure-boat

was

on

at anchor

it

black and

white swans were sporting about, searching for

small fry
rare

ducks and water-fowls, much more

and beautiful than those that are to be

seen in

St.

James's Park, were swimming about

in all directions.

On
birds

the roof of the pagoda sat a

;

among which were

several fine specimens

of Egyptian crows, of black

which had there

At one end

number of

and grey plumage,

built their nests.

of the water stood a beautiful

white marble kiosk, having handsome damask

cushions placed

all

round the

inside.

At each

THE HAREM GARDENS.

105

of the four corners of the raised marble-terraced

walk around the sheet of water stood large

vases, filled

with odoriferous flowering shrubs

and interpersed with beautiful blooming exotics

and

at the sides of the corners

were placed

painted china cushions, so exquisitely finished

that they had

all

the appearance of being real

silk-covered cushions, having also china tassels

suspended at each corner.

Four broad

steps led

close to a plain white

down

into the garden

marble-columned gate,

on the top of which stood out in bold

the statues of

two huge

life-sized lions.

proceeded along the path to the

relief

As we

left,

" The garden like a lady fair was cut,

That lay as

if

And

open skies her eyes did shut

to the

The azure

she slumber' d in delight,

fields of

heaven were 'sembled right

In a large round, set with flowers of light

The Jleurs-de-luce and the round sparks of dew

That hung upon their azure leaves, did shew
Like twinkling

stars, that sparkle in the

examined attentively the

evening blue."

different

male and

female statues that were dotted about

the orange trees and myrtle hedges.
there

were scattered

rose-trees, the

among

Here and
brilliancy

HAREM

106

LIFE.

of whose variegated colours and the perfume

of their flowers were

delightfully refreshing.

jessamine,
and yellow blossoms were
those in England and a

Geraniums, of almost every hue,

whose large white

thrice the

of

size

variety of indigenous and Eastern plants, shrubs,

and

were so thickly studded about

flowers,

that they rendered the coup d'ceil extremely

and perfumed the

picturesque,

Verbena

to the senses.

nary

fruit trees

other

air

gratefully

trees, as large as ordi-

plants, bearing large

yellow flowers as big as teacups, with most

curious leaves

cactuses,

and a complete galaxy

of botanical curiosities, whose

names the genius

of a Paxton would perhaps be puzzled to disclose,

At

ornamented these Elysian grounds.

the end of this garden

we

entered a

formed of myrtle hedges, then in

thence

hand

we

side,

full

maze

bloom;

passed along a path on the right-

and came upon a

on which the

little

"

merry-go-round,"

prince took great delight in

seating himself,
"

Many

a time and

oft,"

while I whirled him round for

many

a half-

WATERWORKS AND
hour.
I

was

It

similarly constructed to those

had seen in the Champs Elysees, in

Close

by was a

by four

from whose mouths played forth

spruug

another

and in the middle stood the

colossal

as

forth,

it

figure of the goddess Ceres, bearing

on her head

an open-worked basket of carved marble

and

life-

were,

jets d'eau,

basin

Paris.

large marble basin of water,

in the centre of which, supported

sized angels,

107

STATUES.

flowers, beautifully

of nature

fruit

coloured in imitation

while in her exquisitely- wrought

hand she held a cornucopia,

filled

with ears of

corn and bunches of white and black grapes.

The water that spouted

of the four cherubims
of an hydraulic

forth from the

was thrown

pump,

up,

into the horn of the

Goddess of Plenty, from whence

down most

gracefully.

mouths

by means

it

trickled

The lower basin was

surrounded by a marble-paved verandahed walka

or terrace, interspersed with light iron fancy
chairs, couches,

and

tables.

It

was completely

sheltered from the rays of the scorching sun

by immense willow
basin,

trees

planted round the

and numerous marble statues were

scat-

tered between their graceful drooping foliage.

HAREM

108

LIFE.

Passing along another path,

swings, which

Tom Moore,

we reached

the

in his " Lalla Kookh,"

describes as being " always a favourite pastime

with the Orientals/' which were erected in the

shape of old-fashioned barouche carriages. They

were

all

fitted

wound up with
machinery,

up with handsome
a key,

swung

alone

cushions,

by

aid of

but were in a most dilapidated

state.

Leaving these neglected sources of amuse-

we proceeded

ment,

along a path to the right,

passed through a most superb marble-paved

the ceiling of which

hall,

It is

is

in fresco

and

gold.

supported upon twenty-eight plain pink-

coloured- marble columns,

surmounted by richly

gilded Indian wheat, the leaves of which hang

down most
and

also

they
are

gracefully.

above

(all

On

each side of which,

of which are

now

finished

were then in course of construction)

some very handsome

lofty rooms, the ceil-

ings of which are also in fresco, with superb

gilded panels and richly-decorated cornices

all

round.

In the centre of this regal saloon hangs a

magnificent glass chandelier capable of holding

ISMAEL PACHA'S PAVILION.

109

Thence we passed

two hundred wax-lights.

through a door which led us into another garden,

extremity of which stands H.H. the

at the

For we have

Viceroy Ismael Pacha's pavilion.

along been describing the

all

Harem

Gardens,

in which, however, strange to state, their High-

nesses the Princesses seldom if ever promenaded.

Why

or wherefore I

am

unable to say

indolence was the primary cause

but

perhaps

I strongly

surmise that one of the chief reasons was, their

Highnesses'
suite,

dislike

to

be attended by any

especially their guardians the

eunuchs.

Therefore they refrained from roaming about

this almost earthly paradise

to conceive
skill

any idea of

for it is impossible

their beauty,

with which they have been laid

and the

out.

The grounds of Frogmore, the Crystal

St.

Cloud, Versailles, the

Duke

Palace,

of Devonshire's

far-famed Chatsworth, and our national pride,

Kensington Gardens, and Windsor

exquisite, beautiful,

and

assuredly partake

of the

ficent

but then they

Home

Park,

rural as they are,

all

most

grand and magnilack

the brilliant

display of exotics which thrive here in such

luxuriance.

The groves of orange

trees,

the

HAREM

110

LIFE.

myrtle hedges, the beautiful sheets of water,

the spotless marble kiosks, the artistic statuary,
are all so masterly blended together with such
exquisite

taste,

that

these

gardens, the

cution of which was carried

exe-

out under the

personal inspection of that strangest of cha-

return

gallant Ibrahim Pacha, after

the

racters,

from

his

tour in

his

Europe, completely

outvie them.

Then we came upon an immense

sides

lake, the

and bottom of which are paved with stone,

which
water,

is

covered over with marble cement

by means

the

of large pipes laid down,

is

supplied from the Nile.

Passing along

marble walk we soon

the

reached the Viceroy's pavilion

"

Where in gay splendour and luxurious state

Mahomet Ali's proud descendant, on the Nile's
Near old
Holds

Cairo, populous

his bright court

and
.

."

Murray, in his Handbook

that "

shore,

great,

for

Egypt,

states,

none of the Viceregal palaces are worth

visiting."

must

beg to

differ

from the

author of that work, and to explain that no

travellers

have as yet been able to inspect those

THE SALOON.

Ill

on the banks of the Lower and Upper

several of

Nile,

which are not only situated in most

but

picturesque spots,

luxurious regal style.

up

fitted

In short,

most

in the

hardly think

it

probable that sight-seers would obtain access to

them, as in most cases the Harems adjoin them,

and

for that reason

shall

we were
storied,

now

they would be inaccessible.

proceed to describe the one

approaching.

It

is

two-

long,

white marble structure, most admirably

erected on a highly-polished black marble terrace,

and reached by a

marble

steps.

flight of three

broad

broad verandah runs along

the whole length, shaped like a Chinese pagoda,

and supported by sixteen

porphyry columns

red, green,

and black

between which stand square

blocks of beautifully polished variegated marble,

on which are antique-looking

vases,

having

large rams' heads with horns as handles,

and

these are all filled with the choicest exotics.

Suspended from the roof of the verandah hung

numerous

gilt

lamps of exquisite design.

Entering the interior at the right-hand

we

side,

passed into one of the finest saloons I had

ever entered.

The

floor

was covered with an

HAREM

112

LIFE.

elegant carpet, the pattern of which represented

the most lovely moss imaginable, the brilliancy

of whose shades rivalled those of the exotics in

The

the grounds.

ceiling is

most exquisitely

painted in fresco, in squares, in each of which

were represented groups of various kinds, such

as men,

Some contained

women, and animals.

unique sketches of Egyptian landscape, views

of Alexandria,

Cleopatra's

Needle,

Cairo,

as

seen from the citadel, the prettiest spots up

the banks of the

Lower and Upper

Nile, Nubia,

Ethiopia, Karnac, Thebes, Constantinople, Pera,

the lovely Bosphorus, and the Cataracts.

The

walls
" With costly tapestry were hung,
Where was inwoven many a gentle tale,

Such

Or
It

as of old the rural poets

sung

of Egyptian or Turkish vale."

was lighted by four enormously

glass

windows

and

also

large, stained

of the richest colours imaginable,

by an immense cupola-dome.

The

hangings of the doors and windows were of

elegant flowered white satin, the

exotics

on

which, especially the colours of the variegated

selection of roses,

The

chairs

and

were most exquisitely

sofas, for

finished.

divans were excluded

THE DRAWING ROOM.

from

were of white,

this luxurious apartment,

ormolu and gold

covered with the
couches.

and

the ^eats

same

113

footstools

material, as also the

Large mirrors hung down from the

ceiling to the floor

in short, the walls

were

In the centre

almost like a glass curtain.

stood a superb round inlaid mosaic table, sup-

ported on massive gilded

On

feet.

the brown and red marble mantelpiece

stood a handsome large modern timepiece, sup-

ported by

on either side of which

gilt figures,

were placed two massively-chased candelabras,

each

wax

containing twelve

coloured

candles.

Entering the
ing,

transparent

small

drawing-room adjoin-

which was furnished in a similar manner,

only with blue satin drapery and covers to the

furniture in lieu of white,

we

passed into the

dining-room, which was very long.

covered with a thick green

with raised moss-roses.

carpet,

It

was

studded

In the centre stood

a long carved oak dining-table, capable of ac-

commodating thirty

or forty guests.

The

seats of

the chairs, (which were of carved oak, and, most

singular to add, wuVre-shaped,)

vol. L

were covered

HAREM

114

LIFE.

with green velvet, and studded with

gilt nails.

The walls were of oak panels, also carved in

mitre-shape, which would most assuredly have
shocked the orthodoxy of any mufti,

have

personages

which

very

ever

much

entered

such

precincts,

its

doubt.

The roof was of stained

glass,

was suspended a

of which

if

from the centre

large gilt chandelier,

containing no less than a hundred transparent

wax

coloured

candles.

Against the sides of

the walls, and at the extremities of the room,

were fixed several

silver

each containing twelve

branch candelabras,
similar

lights.

The

hangings of the doors and windows were of

green velvet, lined throughout with white satin,

looped up with gold bullion

passed, as the Poet

described

it,

Then we

tassels.

Thomson has

so naively

through doors that

" Self opened into halls, where, I can hardly tell

What

elegance and grandeur wide expand,

The pride

of -Turkey

and of Persia land

Soft quilts on quilts, on carpet carpets spread,

And
And

couches stretched around in seemly band

endless pillows rise to prop the head

So that each spacious room was one

Leaving which

we

full

swelling bed."

entered another apartment.

115

STUFFED ANIMALS.
This was

covered with a crimson and black

carpet, the walls

and

ceiling similar to those of

the drawing-room, having likewise silver candela-

bras fixed to the walls, and a most magnificent

gilt chandelier
ceiling.

The

with crimson

hanging from the centre of the

were rosewood, covered

chairs

The

as also the divans.

satin,

hangings of the doors and windows were of the

same

rich material, looped

up with heavy

cords and tassels of the same colour.

It

silk

was

furnished with handsome ebony cabinets, inlaid

with precious stones, on which stood elegant

gilt cases

of stuffed birds, the choicest selection

and American ornithology

of Egyptian, Indian,

which could possibly be

selected.

apartment

stood

several stuffed animals with glass eyes,

which

In

the

corners

of

this

were rolling about by means of mechanism.

down

In front of the fireplace lay crouched

full-sized stuffed tiger, at the sight of which,

the doors being open, H.H. the

Ibrahim

not pacify him, nor could

On

enter the apartment.

sions

Grand Pacha

screamed so violently that

when

persuade him to

several other occa-

I visited this pavilion,

I

could

where

often

HAREM

116

much

passed

my

of

LIFE.

H.H. the Prince

time,

Ibrahim never could be induced even to walk

by the windows of that to him most terrible

" chamber of horrors/' until he had seen the
attendant carefully lock the door and draw

down

the transparent coloured silk blinds be-

Often have

fore his face.

the

little

smiled as I saw

grandson of the renowned Ibrahim

Pacha stand
until his

mute peering

like a

at the

guard of honour had stationed them-

window.

selves at the corner of each

Continuing

my

inspection alone of this ele-

gant yet strangely-arranged room,

across to the other

white polar bear.

marked
side,

and

tiger-cat

end of

it,

A small

walked

where stood a large

but most beautifully-

down

lay crouching

by was a

close

Upon examining

fine

at

its

group of cranes.

these animals, I found

that

could be put in motion by means of

they

all

the

mechanical

power

But what rendered

fact

windows

that their

tion could be

it

more

natural

made

attached

to

singular,

powers

to issue forth

was the

or articula-

from their

mouths, so that, literally speaking,

myself in a den of wild beasts

them.

and

I
I

found

thought

THE VICEREGAL BEDCHAMBER.

of Sir
tigers

117

David Baird, and Tippoo Saib and

but

in the case of the

his

Mysorean Prince

the animals were alive, and chained to a pillar

near his Harem.

It is

was of

a well-known fact that Ibrahim Pacha

and brutal

and

it is

most probable that he had these animals

col-

a cruel

lected together

and

disposition,

set in

motion whenever he

had commanded the attendance of any Turkish

or

whom

Arab dignitary from

extort money, for avarice

dominant

he desired to

was one of

his pre-

This vice was, however, of

vices.

rather a refined nature, as from the

immense

wealth he had accumulated he must have been

perfectly
talaris,

tact

au fait

in the

art

of

toning

his

"money," to the best advantage, which

H.H. Ismael Pacha, the present Viceroy,

inherits in a

As soon

most remarkable degree.

as I

had joined the

little prince,

who

waited patiently while I explored the chamber,

we opened

a door on the right hand, passed

through a small marble-paved hall in which

stood four

life-size statues,

each holding

gilt

lamps in their hands, which led us into the

Viceregal Bedchamber.

It

was a noble-looking

HAREM

118

LIFE.

room, covered with, a handsome Brussels carpet,

with black ground and thickly studded with

bouquets of variegated flowers of almost every

The whole was scrupulously

hue.

gilt-iron bedstead

The

clean.

was surmounted with gilded

knobs, as also the foot and head plates.

musquito curtains were of

fine

The

crimson

gauze bespangled with gold crescents.

silk

The

washhand-stand was of pure white marble, with

and the other usual appendages

ewer, basin,

of beautifully painted Sevres china, the bouquets

on

which

were

artistically

matched the carpet admirably.

and

executed,

large pier-

hung down from the ceiling. The divan

(which was rather diminutive in comparison to

glass

those generally placed

in

the apartments

of

Turkish dwellings,) and chairs were covered

with crimson
cents.

The

silk

toilet-table,

His Highness's
inlaid with

bespangled with gold cres-

on which were placed

toilet requisites, all of solid gold,

was

inlaid with gold

and

cloth.

The ebony cabinet was

costly jewels,
silver

stones,

most valuable precious

covered with a similar

on each

side of

which stood two

branch candelabras holding a dozen trans-

THE GUESTS' CHAMBER.

parent coloured wax-candles

was placed His

perfect

The

gem

119

and in the centre

jewel

Highness's

casket,

of the same material, richly inlaid.

walls were covered with crimson paper,

The

embossed with gold crescents.

beautifully painted with Turkish

ceiling

was

and Egyptian

The chimney-piece was of white

landscapes.

marble, and the handsome, elegant bronze stove

on the spotless white marble hearth was constructed in the form of a kiosk.

Then we proceeded through a door that was

wide open into another chamber similarly

left

fitted

up,

except that

the

furniture

was of

yellow satin bespangled with silver crescents,

which was invariably occupied by that Ikbcd,

whom

" favourite,"

the Viceroy from time to

time delighted to honour.

This was the guests

chamber, and the history of

its

form a singular addition

Egyptian

rooms

history.

to

The beds

occupants would
annals

the
in

both

of

these

were encased in richly figured satin,

which matched the hangings of each apartment.

Passing

out of the Pavilion

way we had

entered,

we turned

by the same
to

the

left,

120

and proceeded
with cuttings

HAREM

LIFE.

across

rilled

by which means

garden

intersected

with the water of the Nile,

the grounds were irrigated.

These extensive gardens are completely flooded,

night and morning, by means of the

water which

and

pipes

river

allowed to pass through large

is

turned on by taps and sluice

is

gates.

Crossing several of those cuttings, as

which were

deep dykes in different places,

bridged over with wide planks,

also

we

reached the

barracks, situated at the back of the pavilion.

These consist of along wooden shed raised upon

piles,

and the walls

are constructed of

The roof and Venetian

shutters, (for there are

windows,) are of wood, the latter of

They

closed at night.

three

or

mud.

which are

are divided off into

rooms, which

are

two

merely furnished

with wooden divans, on which the soldiers

by day and
up

sleep

in their dark

line

brown

They

in

the

blankets.

In a straight

officers' quarters,

shape of a Chinese pagoda.

are ascended

consist of

sit

floors at night, rolled

with these rooms are the

erected

and

on the

no

by a

flight of

wooden

steps,

two rooms in each compartment.

THE TURKISH SENTINEL^ REFRAIN.

They

121

are furnished with divans, the cushions of

which are covered with common

floor

is

The walls and

matted.

The

whitewashed.

The

chintz.

ceiling

are

on guard presented

sentries

arms to His Highness and myself.

As

passed the windows, or more properly

speaking the openings,

(for,

have before

as I

observed, there were none, as the openings are

destitute of frames
officers

and men

loop-holes
latter

and

observed both

glass,) I

lolling out of their respective

the former were in undress, but the

They never

can scarcely describe.

undress themselves, but sleep in their clothes,

which are never taken

on

fete

the

Bairam

new

uniforms.

onions,

crude

and

days,

at

On that
Many

off their

the

backs except

Turkish

of

cucumbers and other vegetables in their

On

state.

another occasion,

of the soldiers singing "

Refrain," of

" I

of

them were eating

when

ing by these wretched quarters, I

tion

fete

occasion they receive

The Turkish

which the following

is

pass-

heard one
Sentinel's

a transla-

am

a native of Rhoda, and since

the Nile inundate

my

my

birth I have beheld

paternal lands no less than seven times.

HAREM

122

LIFE.

There lived a man of the name of Abderahnian, next door to

me, who had a daughter, whose countenance had never been
gazed upon by any other being than myself.

The beauty and symmetry

of

Fatima were absolutely incom-

parable.

Her

eyes were as large as coffee cups, 'findjans.'

Her

figure

was stout and well made.

We loved

each other, and

bonds of wedlock

When the

Recruiting Sergeant,

handcuffed me, and lugged

fifty

we were waiting

to

be united in the

me

'Fiachef,''

off

whom the

devil take,

by the scurf of the neck, with

others to the camp.

As both myself and neighbour were very poor, we were

the devil take

The sound

him

of the drums, trumpets,

senses, that I soon forgot

water-mill
heart

unable

and may

to give the Sergeant sufficient baksheesh to satisfy him,

my

and

fifes

peaceful hut,

so bewildered

my

and

goats,

but I have never ceased to think of the joy of

my
my
my

my beautiful Fatima.

Soon I had a gun, uniform, and wallet given to me then I

was drilled to turn my head to the right, then to the left, to
hold my leg up in the air, stand upright, afterwards to shoulder
arms, present arms, and many other manoeuvres.
Soon I was ordered away with my regiment at Mecca,
When I gazed upon the Kaaba, Mahomet's Tomb.'
;

'

We bivouacked in the desert, in the rocks,

We slew the enemies of the prophet, and

in the mountains

then I returned a

May God be thanked

Pilgrim,' from Mecca.
was soon made a corporal and after three years' active
service, we embarked on board a man-of-war, and returned to
the country watered by the far famed Nile.
There we encamped, and I longed to return once again to
Rhoda, and behold my Fatima.
Still I was afraid to ask for leave of absence, lest I should
Hadje,

'

find things fearfully changed.

Then the

fever seized me,

and

became an inmate of the

THE TURKISH SENTINEl/s REFRAIN.

123

Hekim Frandje, Christian doctors

prevented me from eating, and treated me much more cruel than
1

Hospital at Cairo, where the

sickness

itself.

was obliged to

them
Every day

sell

my Tain,

May

rations.'

'

the devil take

became weaker and more sorrowful.

was on

the point of death.

One morning the doctors brought me a medicine, the smell of

which made me shudder, and I became worse. I had just raised
up

the cup

to

my

when

lips,

I fancied that I

heard a voice from

the sound of which pierced my very heart

without

Mustafa

Mustafa

in enui.

my

Oh,

eyes

call to

me

'

my strength seemed
and the blood circulated in my veins. I rose up
quite convalescent, and those fools of doctors thought that it
was their physic which had cured me. My discharge said I.
They gave it to me, and I rushed into the arms of my Fatima,
who had been most anxiously awaiting my release.
After we had embraced each other, she related to me how
she had become acquainted with my return, and how she managed
I threw the cup at the apothecary's nose

restored to me,

to enter the

When

camp.

attempted to enter, said she, a black presented the

point of his bayonet to

my

breast, crying out dour,

she did not understand the meaning of the

so she did not answer,
lustily,

and the black

advanced towards

her,

not seen for these three years.

back upon

poor

my

And

brokenhearted

of one of the sergeants,

lying at the hospital so

Your

ill

affianced,

then the

is

'

stop,'

more
came out

whom

officer,

of

him

have

turning
!

but having met the

lover, said that

that he

As

stop.'

officer

know nothing

her, exclaimed, I

girl retired, quite

'

dour,

fellow, crying out still

when the Turkish

and asked her what she wanted ?

I want my Mustafa, replied she
his

word

The
sister

noble woman,

is

at the point of death.

Swifter than the fleetest gazelle, that dearest angel of my life,

drawing near to the window of the hospital, exclaimed Mustafa,

Mustafa, in enui

'

Oh my

eyes

1
!

HAREM

124

LIFE.

Intoxicated with joy, I bore her in triumph through the camp.

I pointed her out, like a

mandant,

my

Captain,

my

madman,

to

my

Lieutenant, and

Colonel,

my

my Com-

Sergeant

and,

having obtained a furlough, we went to Rhoda to get married,

where the good old Abderahman was waiting to bestow

May God be praised, God is great "
blessing upon us.

his

Grand Pacha Ibrahim

began to complain of being tired, and I have
no doubt that his little legs must have ached,
we turned our footsteps towards the Harem.

As His Highness

the

was rather taken aback

after

we had

pro-

ceeded a short distance by observing the atmosphere become

all at

but turning round

of black

once dark and gloomy

perceived dense volumes

smoke issuing

forth from a huge, tall

chimney towering in the distance up

sky.

the

It raised its

whitewashed

dark head a
barracks.

Spirake, the Greek attendant, the

building,

when he informed me

Highness the Viceroy s sugar

little

to the

beyond

inquired

name

that

it

refinery.

of

of the

was His
I

then

learned that immense quantities of sugar were

manufactured from the cane which grew on His

Highness Ismael Pacha's estates near Minich,

which produce yields the

billionaire

merchant

prince a most lucrative return, for the sale of

125

SUGAR REFINERY.

sugar throughout the whole length and breadth

of

Egypt

is

monopolized by His Highness the

Viceroy.

The
in

refinery

the

distance

that

we had

yields

seen towering

upwards of 30,000

quintals annually, and there coal

clarify the

sugar in lieu

is

used to

of bullocks

blood.

This explanation fully accounted for the huge

pile of black

piled

up

I first

diamonds that

had observed

on the sides of the landing-place

when

approached the gates of the Harem.

On my

return I thanked His Highness the

Grand Pacha Ibrahim for the very attentive

and kind manner in which he had shown me
all

the Hons of the

roy's pavilion

Harem

gardens, the Vice-

and the barracks.

HAREM

126

LIFE.

CHAPTER
As soon

VIII.

as I reached the Prince s

suite of

apartments, I found the head-nurse waiting to

conduct His Highness to his supper, as

it

about half-past seven, European time.

with

proceeded

my

pupil

then

downstairs,

across the small garden into a large

was
then

room on

the ground-floor, which was usually occupied

by

several of the ladies of the

floor

was covered with a hand-

in the day-time

The

Harem.

some Brussels carpet

simple pattern
curtains of the

damask
The

the walls papered with a

the ceiling was painted.

windows and doors were

The
of red

a divan extended along one side.

five

youthful slaves

who formed His

Highness's staff of domestics entered the room

soon after

we had

seated ourselves.

One

car-

ried the soofra (a kind of very low table), while

THE CARTE.

127

the others bore the viands, of which the fol-

lowing

is

made from

Soup,

having

la carte

rice

sheep's shanks or fowls,

and forcemeat

crumbs of bread

left

(made of the

balls

on the trays) in

it.

Legs of mutton (which are as small as the

lamb of

Italy),

roasted,

kernels of ground-nuts,

and

and

with the

onions, raisins, spice,

sugar.

Tomatoes, scooped out and

rice,

stuffed

and

filled

with meat,

spice.

Cucumbers, dressed in a similar manner.

Boiled cucumbers, small vegetable-marrows,
onions,

and pieces of

fowl, all

mixed up

to-

gether.

Broad beans, boiled in their

which the bean

is

removed

shells,

at table,

from

and then

eaten.

Boiled chickory, chopped up very

then re-boiled in

fine,

and

fat.

Cutlets, fried in syrups

with

spice.

Boiled fowls.
Pickles

water

salads, dressed

with lamp-oil and

onions, in their crude state

cucumbers.

undressed

HAREM

128

LIFE.

Lemons, sweetmeats, syrups.

Confectionary,

numerous

most

devices,

tastefully

some

like

formed into

Banbury

cakes,

but which, in lieu of being made with jam in

the centre, contained a quantity of whey, as
salt as brine.

with strawberries placed whole in

Jelly,

it.

Pastry, consisting of batter fried, then opened,

and sour milk poured

in

fried

Batter-balls,

it.

syrups

hard bread-

cooked.

balls, similarly

Large

into

patties, filled

with eggs and sour milk.

Pancakes, fried in grease, and eaten with

syrups.

Bowls of sour milk

crude cucumber

sour milk, with slices of

swimming

in

it.

Thick rice-milk with sugar and jams, eaten

with milk.

The

dessert consists of all the various fruits

in season

and

and the only beverage was water

sherbet,

which the Prince and the other

children drank out of silver mugs, each having

one appropriated for his exclusive

H.H.

the

Grand Pacha was

fed

use.

by Shaytan,

who, squatting herself down upon the ground

BREAD BALLS.

by

129

Lis side, took the morsels out of china dishes

and put them into

his

She used a

mouth.

spoon for the pilau, but broke the bread, dipped

it

into the liquid viands,

mouth.
children

in

sat

in a similar

chairs

children's

into his

round the

manner.

If a piece of bread

ground,

is kissed,

happens to

upon the

repeated several times, the bread

is

and then placed up

crumbs only

to be swept

fall

picked up immediately, the word

it is

Bismillah

if

it

and each was fed by the under-nurses

soofra,

but

and placed

At the same time the other Viceregal

up

as

fall,

to the forehead;

instead of leaving

them

Europeans are accustomed to

them up one by one, and eat them

But should any pieces that have fallen be dirty,

do, they pick

they are placed on the statues in the small

garden, for the birds to eat.

bread at the meals

where

it

is

is

carried

All the broken

away to the

kitchen,

moistened with milk, squeezed by

the hand into balls, and then fried in batter and

sugar.

Of

those, however, I never partook.

The whole

of the slaves are supplied with

the dark Arab bread, and

it

not unfrequently

happened that both myself and the German

VOL.

I.

HAREM

130

LIFE.

maids were kept on very short commons.

fact,

time after time,

out any bread at

most adroit

all,

as the slaves,

thieves, would,

for their

who

are all

whenever they could

find an opportunity, steal the

with which

In

have actually been with-

we Europeans were

European bread
alone provided

Highnesses the Princesses, the Viceroy's

wives, invariably partook of white

which was

Arab bread,

also as salt as the briny ocean.

inmates of the

Harem have

dropping bread, and

The

a perfect horror of

have often heard them

scream with dismay as a piece

fell

from their

hands.

After H.H. the Grand Pacha had finished

his supper, a large silver basin, shaped like a
glass

the

goblet,

which

had been brought

into

room with the viands and placed upon

the carpet, was raised up by a young slave,

who

knelt

down and

held

it

The head-nurse then took a

towel),

soaped

it

with a

before the Prince.

piece of rag (not a

ball

of white soap,

(which, together with a piece of linen,

is

always

placed in the centre of the strainer that stands

by the

side of the basin,)

After this she

wrung the

and washed
rag,

his face.

and wiped him

THE TRAY AFTER MEALS.

witli

basin,

it

131

then she held his hands over the

and water was poured upon them out of

the silver ewer, which

is

shaped

like

an old-

fashioned coffee-pot, but having a long spout,

The same ceremony was

curved downwards.

observed by the under-nurses with the other

whom had

each of

children,

separate basins

and ewers.
It

is

hardly possible to

give

an accurate

description of the appearance of the tray after

their Highnesses
It

looked just as

had partaken of
if

their

meals

the whole contents of a few

of those plate-baskets which are used in the

kitchens

of the

first-class

London

hotels

to

place the pieces in collected off the plates that

come down from the

been emptied on to

several dinner-tables

had

it.

Here and there lay morsels which had been

torn asunder from the joint or bird, and, being

unsuited to the palate of the guest, had been

thrown down,

after

in their fingers

having been mawled about

pieces of broken bread,

crumbs

of pastry, the remains of vegetables, both cooked

and crude

in short,

it

presented a sight that

would make the stomach of a cook-shop carver

HAKEM

132
heave again.
sights I

It

LIFE.

was one of the most disgusting

had ever witnessed, and

Then the

scene enacted daily.

Harem had

their meals off

it,

this

was the

ladies of the

just as

it

was.

After the Viceregal children had partaken of

their repast, then the nurses,

who

in their turn

were waited upon by their Highnesses

slaves (for each Princess has

upon

her,

and

two

little

slaves to wait

act as their playmates), helped

themselves.

When

they had finished, the group of

little

slaves (who, as I shall hereafter show, are near

relations of

things
Hall,

H.H. the Grand Pacha)

cleared the

away and carrying them into

placed them on the basement
;

there squatted themselves down,

themselves,

like

the

crumbs which had

the Stone
floor,

and

and regaled

beggars of old, on the

fallen, as it were,

table of their superiors.

from the

These sometimes were

very scanty, as no separate table was ever

provided for them.
After supper was finished, a
as marshal,

slave acted

and led the way, holding a

gilt lantern, in

candle.

little

silver-

which was placed a large wax-

Then Shaytan

carried the Prince

up

THE NURSERY AND

into his reception-room,

133

ITS OCCUPANTS.

which

at

that time

presented a most singular and novel scene.

It

appeared that during supper-time a number of

other slaves had been busily engaged in re-

Bed Store-room " the beds

that had remained piled up there during the
day-time, and had placed them upon the carpet.
Each of the Viceregal children and their nurse
had two mattresses assigned them, which were
moving out of the

"

encased in cotton covers.

On His
three

flat

Highness's bed was laid a sheet, then

cushions, also encased in muslin, the

ends of which were embroidered in red worsted

and

tied with ribbons, for his

in lieu of pillows

placed

two dark-coloured wadded

under which the Prince

slept.

were ranged the beds of his

by the

head to

side of

them

rest upon,

and over the whole were

On

coverlets,

one side

little sisters,

and

those of the nurses, and on

the other side that of the head-nurse.

The Prince and

for a short time

bed

"

after

his little slaves played about

amidst this " one full-swelling

which

Shay tan undressed him.

which she did in the following

manner

she removed his trousers, then the

little

first

coat

HAREM

134

and

clay-shirt,

night-attire,

and then re-dressed him

which consisted of a pair of

fastened round his waist

trousers,

of muslin, with

strip

LIFE.

in his
calico

by a long

embroidered ends run

through the broad hem., not unlike a pair of

Indian "pyjamas" over which was placed a
cotton dressing-gown, open

up the

all

and over that a blue quilted cashmere

His waist was girded with a

front,

paletot.

handkerchief

silk

head was covered with a white cotton

his

fez,

with strings which were tied under his chin.

His

sisters

were also similarly

attired.

As soon as he was dressed in his nightclothes,

a silver brazier,

was brought

into the room.

a quantity of

lumps of

wood

with charcoal,

filled

In

it

was thrown

of aloes, aromatic

crystallized sugar.

gum, and

Then the head-

nurse lifted up His Highness in her powerful

swung him round it nine times, while

she counted that number aloud in Turkish
but why that number was used I was unable
arms, and

to

learn.

Alia

After this she exclaimed, Allah

BismiUali

("

of the most merciful

God God
in the name
God ") The same cere-

mony was performed by

!-

each of the other nurses

OCCUPATION OF THE PRINCESS EPOUSE.

with their Highnesses the
then he was laid

down

it

in turns to repeat

sang himself and his

stories, or else

their everlasting

sisting of

Princesses

in his bed.

The nurses then took

sleep

little

Baba,

135

sisters to

monotonous chaunt con-

Xi-na! Baba, Ni-na! "father,

mother;" Xi-na

Xi-na! "mother,"

in different

tones of voice,

During the whole of

this preparation for re-

H. H. the Princess Epouse sat

tiring to rest,

upon the divan, smoking

All the

cigarettes.

nurses sat at the side of the beds, or else at the

door.

Those who were not engaged in telling

stories

were employed at needlework, which

they executed with their

retired to rest,

which

all

left

hands, until they

did about ten o'clock,

European time. At that hour the Keslar Agaci,

Grand Eunuch, captain

by

of the girls, accompanied

several of his attendants, like the

matron of

an English house of correction

u Goes his nightly rounds,"

locks the outer gates of the

"Abode

of Bliss,"

and then
" His guard tread softly o'er the grass beneath their feet

Which

leadeth

them the Kislar Agaci

to meet."

HAREM

136

LIFE.

and the guardians of the enchanted palace all

repair to their respective apartments to smoke
their pipes,

Below

and enact the

Stairs,"

which

farce of "

I shall

High

Life

subsequently show

they did to perfection.

Above the whole of that most motley group,

which was assembled together in the Eeception
Hall, hung suspended an enormous large coloured muslin musquito curtain, made in the
form of a canopy, similar to that which

is

daily

seen carried in Catholic countries over the head

of the dignitary,

who walks

when

is

the Host

along the streets

being carried to a dying

Attached to the four comers of the

person.

top piece, were sown four large gilt

square

flat

rings,

through

of which

each

was run the

crimson cord, which was fastened to the large

brass hooks that were driven into the walls.
It

them the long ends

the floor and being tucked

was then looped up

hanging down to

to

underneath the mattresses,

of children
its

ample

left

the whole group

and nurses snugly ensconsed within

folds.

large silver-gilt lantern,

lighted transparent

containing two

wax-candles,

as

long

as

THE GOVERNESS AT SUPPER.

137

by mourners in Catholic countries,

burning upon the floor all night.

those used

was

left

This scene, which brought to

encampment

my mind

the

of a party of gipsies on the stage,

appeared to me most singular and novel, and it

was some time before I could bring my mind to
look upon it as a reality.
At moments, when
I gazed upon the group, I thought it was the
idle phantom of a dream
but I was soon
;

awakened from that delusion by the entrance

German laundrymaid, who came

to announce that my own supper was ready.
Retiring from that noble apartment, now so
of Clara, the

strangely metamorphosed
nursery, I followed the
stairs
floor,

into the

which had but recently served as the

disgust

little

Viceregal

Stone Hall on the basement

dining hall of the

my

the

into

German maid down-

little

slaves,

and astonishment,

slaves bringing in the

and
I

there, to

beheld the

same carte

as

been served up for the Viceregal children.

stared again in astonishment,

the maid

Clara, I

it

with me.

and looking at

found that she had seated

herself at the table,

nob

had

and was prepared to hob-

HAREM

138

This was treatment

receive.

LIFE.

had never expected

However, there was no help

as neither knife nor fork

me,

was obliged

me

to lend

offer

for

it,

to

and

had been provided

for

German's

to accept of the

those indispensable articles.

Fatigue, disgust, and vexation at the accom-

modation which had been provided

almost taken away
sight of the

all

my

Arab dishes

appetite

some

coffee

bread, a

little

fruit,

as nothing but water

be drank, which latter

acceptable.
pallet in the

but at the

turned quite

contented myself with partaking

had

for me,

sick,

of a "

and

kebab

"

and a "zarf" of

was permitted

to

found exceedingly

I hastily retired to

my

miserable

chamber which had been assigned

me,
I

was

my

can scarcely describe

alone, being at that

of the apathy

feelings

when

and absolute

indifference with

which the Turks, Arabs, and Egyptians

all

Europeans with

tact.

was

whom

treat

they come into con-

at a loss to conceive

been subjected to such an indignity.

why

The

tion I occupied about the Prince ought

assuredly to have saved

time totally ignorant

me from

such an

had
posi-

most

insult.

139

REFLECTIONS.
I

had inspected H. H. the Viceroys pavilion

that very day

rately

and

remembered how accu-

my intelligent fellow -travellers, Mr. Kenos

and Mr. Cohen, had described what would

probability be

all

in this

my

in

and reception

position

Mansion of Discomfort.

had seen

a considerable display of European habits, in

manner

the

rooms

in

which

his

own

had been arranged

private retiring-

every

thing be-

speaking that His Highness was thoroughly

At that

Europeanized.
surprised, for I

knew

was not

in the least

that he had been sent to

France in 18 40', along with his brother, Achmet

Bey, and his uncles,

Bey, and this

was

confident

Hassam Bey and Halim

made me more annoyed,

that

if

either

Messrs.

as I

H. or

Mr. B. had merely taken the precaution they

could easily have done, to

German housekeeper

let

enter the

the good old

Harem and

what accommodation had been provided

see
for

me, that kind creature would have taken care

to

send in everything there for

nience

and

as she

my

conve-

had been accustomed

wait upon ladies in her

own

country, she

to

would

have at once explained to her countrywoman,

140

HAREM

the laimdrymaid,

how she might have conducted

LIFE.

herself towards me.

But

no.

was bundled into the Harem

a ball of merchandize, and

left,

as

Mr.

C.

like

H/s

explained to me before my departure from

England, " to fight my own battle," no diffi-

sister

cult

matter among such a semi-barbarous

Now

was

perfectly

aware that

set.

should

have to vegetate on nothing but Arab

My

health had begun to give

and

s,

was quite

would be utterly impossible

body and
ment,
It

was

w ith
;

me

there

the subject of

there

and unfeeling

was no excuse

my

staff of

to be

diet;

and

as

in the

made.

upon

B.

H.H. the Vice-

French cooks and attendants,

could not have been any difficulty or

objection to

Of

to keep

such nourish-

had already remonstrated with Mr.

roy had a

it

only water and coffee as drinkables.

really unpardonable

extreme

certain that

for

together with

soul

beneath the

most unpalatable cuisine when

effects of that

at the banker

way

diet.

this

associate

my

meals being prepared by them.

His Highness s
in

civil

commerce was

aid-de-camp and

fully

aware

but

SUBSTITUTE FOR BED LIXE^sT

no

lie

was a Prussian, and

as

English, what had I to expect

The

entire

'

141

he hated the

blame must be attached

to the

hasty and inconsiderate manner in which Mr.

C.

H. overruled Mr.

full

my

B.'s objection,

who, knowing

well that nothing had been prepared for

reception,

was anxious

my demy apart-

to postpone

parture from his hospitable roof until

ment had been properly furnished.

To such
straits was I put that I was obliged to place
of body-linen as substitutes

different articles

for

bed-linen

fortunately,

however,

had

provided myself with a stock of Turkish bath

My

towels.

room, as I have previously ex-

Grand

plained, led off from that of H. H. the

Pacha's.

had scarcely arranged

had been appointed

as yet not a slave

upon me, when

my

bed, for
to wait

heard the ponderous bolts and

bars of the lower doors at the foot of the marble

staircase

drawn

they
length turned

keys

for

into their sockets,

are

no

in the

less

their

and then

own

than nine inches in

weighty wards, as the

eunuchs locked the doors,

springs,

and the huge

let

fly

the

secret

retired to enjoy their pipes in

apartments.

HAREM

142

LIFE.

me

Those grating sounds startled

not for an instant realize
I

my position

must be the inmate of some prison

could

thought

in a foreign

land,

and not a guest within the precincts

of a

prince's

My

palace.

position

Although

thing but enviable.

was any

was conver-

sant with several continental languages,

still,

strange to add, not any of the Princesses, ladies

Harem, or

of the

slaves,

but Arabic and Turkish

could speak any thing

and the German laun-

drymaid had only just began

words of those languages.

among

to

pick up a few

Well, there I was,

a crowd of nearly one hundred

women,

without being able to speak a word of their

language, or to understand what they said to

me.

Then did

the worst of

I experience

all

loneliness,
" Solitude in a crowd."

So that when
chamber,

I
"

found myself alone in

my own

could not help exclaiming,

Ah why
!

did Fate

my

steps decoy

In foreign lands to roam

Remote from

all

congenial joy."

Wishing, however, to divert

my mind as much

as possible, I resolved to keep a diary.

But how

A DILEMMA.

143

was that to be accomplished, since

had no

my chamber upon which I could arrange

The top of my French
my writing materials

table in

chest of drawers
toilet-table,

then

and even

and

ing-case

all

had no

had already been turned into a

if I

had removed

my dress-

the appendages thereon, even

Thinking that the slave

chair.

who had arranged my chamber

might, in the

hurry of the moment, have forgotten both those

necessary articles of furniture, (as I had seen
tables,

and even English cane -bottom

in the apartments,)

some to
to

do

my own

so, I

chairs

resolved to appropriate

when attempting
was point-blank told by the eunuchs
use, but,

that I must not touch or take any thing which

had not been expressly given me.

was checkmated, and powerless even
a chair for

my own

accommodation.

Thus
to

move

This was

a kind of domestic tyranny I could not endure.

I

abandoned the idea of making any

tutes

for

them the

upon enquiry that

with

either, I

first

night

was not

substi-

but finding

to be provided

had no

alternative but to tax

two of

my

my

ingenuity.
So, placing

largest square trunks

HAREM

144

upon one
with
ing

my
my

another, for a table, which I covered

travelling-rug,
travelling- cloak

and turning a

and thus did

incidents of

Egypt

and

for a

upon

chair lay-

another

box,

larger one upright, I placed

at the back, which gave

back

LIFE.

my

me

a support for

my

down these
Harem life in

begin to dot

experience of

it

THE PRINCESS'S ARRANGEMENT.

CHAPTER

145

IX.

The following day I was informed by the

German laundrymaid that I was expected to
clean my own room, and wash my own linen,
both of which I resolutely refused to do. Upon
which H.H. the Princess Epouse ordered a

my

slave to arrange
slave,

as

Spiraki,

apartment, and the Greek

a laundress at Cairo,

to find

none of the slaves would wash the linen

of an unbeliever

and

it

was with the

greatest

reluctance that any of the youngest slaves could

be forced to act

as,

what

is

termed in the caste

phraseology of India, the Muhtur, "sweeper,"

to

empty

slops, &c.

After these arrangements had been made,

had a most excellent opportunity of making

myself au fait with domestic

and

so,

VOL.

as the poet
I.

Heywood
l

life

in the

pens,

Harem,

HAREM

146
"

LIFE.

To give content to this most curious age,

The Odalisques themselves I've brought down to the
And figured them on paper made even the Harem
Deliver up its houris, by no charm

stage,

Saving the Muse's rapture

Have
I

trafficked

have

As
As

by

left unrifled

further I

their help
;

my pen

no corner

has been dipt

well in opening each hid manuscript

traits

more

vulgar, whether read or sung

In our domestic or more foreign tongue."

Well, at five o'clock the next morning, the

eunuchs,

who

carry their bunch of keys about

with them like the warders of an English prison,

came round and unlocked

all

outer rooms leading to the

staircases.

and the

the doors of the

grand and back

Then they called up

ladies of the

Harem.

all

the slaves

The former,

as

soon as they were dressed (pardon me, kind

reader,

but

err

for all Turkish

in

using

that

and Egyptian women,

as their slaves, never undress, but lie

their

them

clothes

expression,

on,

though

in the daytime), took

as well

down with

they often change

up and

rolled their

beds which they carried into the bed storeroom,

as I

and there piled them up in a

have previously described.

corner,

Then they

proceeded to sweep the rooms, each using the

MODE OF WASHING THE

set of

PRINCE.

147

brooms and dust -pans which had been

assigned her.

After this portion of the household work had

been performed, the members of the Viceregal

family were called, and the nurses began to
dress the children.

The head

nurse, Shaytan,

lifted the

Prince out of his bed, sat

upon the

side,

him down

having previously had the mos-

quito-curtain looped

up

to the rings attached

to the walls, tucked

up

his 'pyjamas as far as

was poured over a piece

his knees, then water

placed

of rag,

in

deep

silver

which she soaped and washed

feet.

On

legs there

each

of

the

his

calves

legs

of his

with

and
little

were nine incisions just above the

top of the sock, some

that I never
it

dish,

cabalistic

had explained

superstition

to me, but perhaps

was that he was considered

as eligible for the

ninth heaven, as Rtickert, the Orientalist, has

Then she removed

described as many.
drawers, and began
ings,

his

then

hands

by putting on

his boots, after

and

face

(his

his

his stock-

which she washed

arms

and

neck

never being touched), and his flannel shirt was

removed.
L 2

HAREM

148

Around
cord, to

his

LIFE.

neck he wore,

first,

a thin black

which was attached a small black

pad, which lay

removed from

upon
off his

person

on which were strung

wooden

acorns,

abdomen, that

his

is

never

then another one,

six black, carved cypress

which are supposed

to be

teleam, "talisman," to keep evil spirits

from

silk

Then

his august person.

away

his flannel vest

was put on him

a linen

the ends of which were tucked

shirt, all

after that a thin net one,

inside his trousers

after

which

then

was

his coat

put on.

Around his neck he wore a small ribbon tie,

and across his shoulders a silver-gilt chain,
attached to which

hung a small square

silver

box, about an inch thick, having a sliding

in

which

is

inclosed a

little

lid,

cypress-wood box,

containing verses of the Koran, and pieces of

the coffin of the prophet Mahomet.
is

The box

elegantly chased with palm-leaves, elephants,

and numerous other animals.

His head was washed with perfumed water,

and
is

his fez placed

on

it

in the tassel of which

fastened a small thin black silk cushion, or

bag, containing

some grains of a black

seed,

THE PRINCE'S VAGARIES.

149

which are said to possess the power of warding

off fits

shell,

pink

also a piece of

which

is

worn

coral,

At

from attacks of ophthalmia.

the tassel

is

sown a

shaped like

to preserve his Highness

top of

the

large turquoise, to guard

him from all accidents.

The other nurses then proceeded to dress the
young Princesses, who had narrow plaifk of
hair in front.
They all wore the same charms,
except the coral, black bag, and turquoise.

Their beds were then rolled up, removed into

the bed store-room, and the Eeception Hall
"

swept and

Then one

garnished."

of

the

eunuchs brought in a cotton sack, or bag, containing symmets, "buns

rings,

made

in the shape of

about the circumference of a tea-saucer/'

which H. H. the Grand Pacha counted, and

allotted out a certain
little

Princesses

for

number

to each of the

two daily meals,

their

breakfast and supper.

If

made

any had been purloined, or a mistake

in the counting of them, His Highness

invariably

bundled them

made

eunuch take

the

with the proper number

all

into

the

sack,

away and return

and until that was

it

HAREM

150

LIFE.

done, the Prince

stormed and raved like a

was

utterly impossible to pacify

maniac.

It

him.
however,

If,

happened to

secreting one or

two

with him, by

jest

of the buns, he

would

then calmly and quietly continue his distribution of them, without uttering a

As soon

plaint.

had assembled
with

live

word

of com-

as all the Viceregal children

in the saloon, the brazier filled

was brought

charcoal

same process gone through

tised the previous night

in,

and the

had been prac-

as

when they

retired to

rest.

As

the kitchen

is

situated at

some distance

from the Harem, in the vicinity of the Sugar

Refinery, the dishes are

wooden
white

tray,

all

placed upon a large

and covered over with thick

cloths, carried

on men's heads into the

small garden which separates the

Harem from

H. H. the Grand Pasha Ibrahim's

apartments
path,

there they are laid

and the

shrill

claiming, Dustoor

Out

suite

of

down upon

the

cry of the eunuchs ex-

Dustoor !

"

Out of the way

of the way!" resounds from

Then the

slaves begin to

all quarters.

run into their rooms

THE SLAVES PURLOINING.

151

but should any of them linger about, then the

cry of Allah

Allah

God God

"

forth in stentorian tones,

"whip made
upon

!" is

shouted

and the courbache,

of bullock's hide," falls heavily

their shoulders.

After the

men have

placed the trays down,

and disappeared, then commences one of the

most ludicrous scenes imaginable

for,

as I

have previously explained, no regular meals are

provided for the slaves,

or,

in fact,

They

but the Viceregal family.

anybody

else

are necessarily

obliged to purloin whatever they can lay their

hands upon before the dishes are served up to

their Highnesses the Princesses, or the

Grand

Pacha Ibrahim; hence they are accustomed,

like

hungry wolves,

garden, and

make

to

rush

down

the

into

a selection of what dishes

they can, without fear of detection, and withhold them from the Viceregal repast.
It

not unfrequently happened that H. H. the

Princess Epouse

would enter the Stone

Hall,

while the slaves were enjoying their purloining;

then the cups, saucers, and gold spoons would

be thrust into a

pail,

which a

always kept on the qui

vive,

slave,

who was

and acted

as

HAREM

152

LIFE.

sentinel,

would whisk out of the room

magic.

At

nurse,

times

other

as if

Shaytan, the head

would be squatted very comfortably on

the floor of

H.H. the Grand Pacha's apartment,

with a large

flat

patty, about twice the size of

a Cheshire cheese, composed of vermicelli,

cheese, sugar,

in the

by

and

Harem

spice

which

Highness's tray,

a most favourite

fat,

dish

she had stolen off His

together

with several large

glass dishes full of strawberries, cherries, green-

gages, apples, pears, oranges,

piled

up

sugar.

and lemons,

like

pyramids

The

latter she generally hid

also a dish of

all

powdered

away

until

night, but the former being hot, she usually

began to
purloined

partake

of

as

soon

as

she

had

it.

Sometimes H. H. the Princess would enter

the

room

softly,

and then the vermicelli pasty

was pushed away under the divan out of

and in that case

it

another slave carried

Whenever the
purloining

sight

frequently happened that

it off

and consumed

Princess caught any of

the viands,

it.

them

she boxed their ears

most soundly, and made them carry the dishes

back again.

153

THE CHILDREN'S BREAKFAST.

cannot refrain from bearing testimony to

and attention towards myself,

their kindness

as they invariably called

and

my own

select

me

to go downstairs,

any being

dishes prior to

served up to their Highnesses the Princesses

and

good

this spontaneous act of their

will

and

sympathy towards me was not caused by any

backsheesh that I had been in the habit of dis-

among them,

tributing

for I never

any, having been requested

them

to propitiate
their
felt

own

grateful to

my

them

the

for

little

hands, or to do

The

children's

little

my

Princess not

in that manner.

attention towards me,

grant them any

at

by

gave them

it,

and

and never

It

was

always

failed to

indulgence they required

them a

morning

service in return.

toilet

being finished,

slaves brought in the "soofra"

which

they covered with a yellow satin cover, bespangled with silver crescents.

which they

On

rimmed green painted

placed a round

it

tray,

they

upon

laid a white china soup-tureen of

boiled milk, into which

was put pieces of Arab

bread.

Each

dipped

child

helped herself

but

if

its

spoon into

it,

and

any one of them should

HAREM

154

LIFE.

spoon in the

so far forget herself as to place her

tureen before H. H. the Grand Pacha had helped

by taking the first spoonful, then His

Highness would cast, nay, throw his spoon into

himself,

the tureen, as well as those of

and order the

stanter.

all

the Princesses,

remove

slaves to

it

away

in-

Child as he was, his word was law,

and nobody dared disobey him.

The next course consisted of a small tureen

swimming

containing a pigeon served up

in

soup thickened with rice and flour; each one

of the family party helped themselves to

spoonful of

Then the head nurse took the

it.

pigeon in her

fingers, tore it

then commenced a regular

to

battle, as

pieces,

and

each of the

children desired to have a leg, which ended on

the morning in question, as was generally the

case, in

the separated bird

out being touched.

making

with-

H.H. the Grand Pacha

never partook of this dish,

was unable

its exit

why

or wherefore I

to learn.

Then followed a

dish of mutton-chops, broiled

quite dry, but highly spiced

afterwards some

pigeons cooked in a similar manner, minus the

spice.

Each

child took

up a pigeon in her

THE GOVERNESS'S BREAKFAST.

fingers, tore it to pieces,

she fancied.

155

and ate whatever part

salad, consisting of

cucumber

cut into slices and dressed with water and

(for

vinegar they never used), was then served

Then followed a

up.

jam

oil

rally

glass dish

in

fat

with

pancakes,

lite-

and honey, and

this

fried, greasy, pastry-like

swimming

filled

The usual ablution

completed the carte.

fol-

lowed as previously described as having taken

place after His Highnesses supper.
I lost

no time in remonstrating with H. H. the

Princess Epouse

upon the impropriety of being

my

obliged to take

meals with the German

maid, and although unacquainted

vernacular,

with

her

managed to make Her Highit was a degradation to me.

breakfast was served up to me

still I

ness sensible that

Accordingly
in

my own

coffee,

my

room.

It

consisted of a cup of

a small tureen of boiled milk, sweetened

almost to a syrup, and a

bread, but without
of

which did

roll

any butter or

ever partake during

dence in the Harems.

my

my

resi-

After I had partaken

of that refreshment, I dressed,

accompanied by

of European

eggs, of neither

and proceeded,

pupil, into the

Harem.

HAREM

1.36

LIFE.

H.H. the Grand Pacha, according to his

usual custom, went to visit their Highnesses,

He

the three wives, in their bedchambers.

first

walked into the apartment of Her Highness the

Lady Paramount
precedence of

(the first wife),

all,

none of the other wives can

general internal

own

slaves

own

and

was

tall,

interfere

stout,

apartments, and

families,

large blue

marked

in every linea-

of her features.

When we
One

whom

but possessed a most violent temper;

cruelty seemed to be

ment

with

had a pleasing mouth,

sinister expression of countenance,

eyes,

in the

Her name was Ipsah

they act as they please.

she

takes

arrangements of the Harem,

save and except in their

over their

who

and without whose orders

entered she was dressing her hair.

slave held a looking-glass in

another

Her Highness's

her hand,

toilette-tray

with

its

appendages, and a third stood by to hand her

whatever she might require.

She was

was her usual custom, squatted

knife,

not, as

like a clasped

but sat on a cotton-covered divan, attired

in a dirty, crumpled, muslin wrapper,

had served her as her night habiliments.

which

Her

THE PASHA'S THIRD WIFE.

feet

and

157

were both stocking and

legs

shoeless,

and huDg down from the divan.

The Prince drew near

right hand,

her ears

which was

for

to her, took hold of her

jewelless, as also

were

none of their Highnesses ever

He

wore jewels except on grand occasions.

pressed her hand to his lips and forehead, then

salaamed

her, after

which both of us

the

left

room.

On
cess

reaching the chamber of H.H. the Prin-

Epouse

wife,

and then

had done the

as

first

upon having a cup

of

he had partaken of

it,

insisted

As soon

coffee.

Prince mounted

(his mother), the

the divan, saluted, as he

he asked the Princess to give him backsJieesh,

when she handed him

piastres,

a large packet of silver

each valued at twopence halfpenny.

His mother took him on her

inquiries of

him

in Turkish,

understand, and asked

her a cigarette.

has adopted

whom H.H.

made

wife,

to go

and fetch

who

slave

a few

which

Then we passed on

chamber of the third

who

him

lap,

as

did not

into the

is childless,

her

but

daughter,

the Grand Pacha, on his visit to

Constantinople two years ago, purchased

for

HAREM

158
her.

was then nine

It

we proceeded

salaams,

We

requested to

making our

o'clock, so

into the gardens.

had not walked

espied one of the

LIFE.

far,

before the Prince

Arab gardeners,

make him

whom

he

Three of

a bouquet.

the under gardeners rushed off immediately to

some

cull

flowers,

but as they were, according

to His Highness's idea, too dilatory (for like all

Turks, whenever they require a thing,

it

must

be brought to or done for them instantly), the

little

Prince put himself into

At length

passion.

a most violent

the head gardener came

forward and presented him with the bouquet.

His Highness scarcely deigned to look at

on the ground, stamped

threw

it

upon

it,

passion,

handed
self

and

then, in

after a slave
it

the

by tearing

it

his little feet

paroxysm of

had picked

to him, he deliberately
to pieces.

it;

it

his

up and

amused him-

While thus giving

vent to his anger, he kept scolding the gardeners for not having assorted the colours in a

proper manner.

Turning round to the eunuchs who had ac-

companied the attendants, he ordered them,

then and there, to cut sticks from

off

one of

SCENE IN THE GARDEN.

159

the trees, and to give the three gardeners a

thrashing.

Those spectres of

men obeyed His

Highnesss instructions, and the three Arabs

were laid down upon the path by some black
slaves,

This

and the eunuchs

set to beating them.

they continued doing

for

some time

but as the Prince made no sign to them to

discontinue the chastisement, I began

to

re-

monstrate with him at such a display of his

ungovernable temper, and in an authoritative

tone exclaimed Bess! Bess

when

the eunuchs ceased.

"Enough! enough

!"

The morning was

extremely sultry, and the perspiration poured

down

the faces of the eunuchs.

This incident
little

clearly

showed me that the

Prince possessed
"

A tiger's heart wrapt in an infant's breast,"

and gave me an insight

which was evidently as
brutal,

as

that

of

his

Pacha, whose private

into

his

character,

cruel, overbearing,

grandfather,

life

and

Ibrahim

was disgraced by

the most revolting crimes and barbarous pas-

times

but

had

satisfactory evidence,

by

his

conduct in the pavilion, that he did not inherit

HAREM

160

LIFE.

courage which obtained his grandfather

that

such renown.

On

presented

On

Harem

our return to the

itself

a novel scene

the noble Audience Hall.

in

the divan sat their Highnesses the Prin-

cesses,

elegantly
dresses,

They were

the Viceroy's three wives.

attired

and very

new muslin

beautiful

in
full

trousers

of

material, with quilted satin jackets, of

gaudy

Their heads were ornamented with

colours.

large

same

the

diamond pins

and

all

rose

up from

their seats as a middle-sized gentleman,

off

in a

dressing-gown and slippers d la Turque, entered the room, holding a white pocket-hand-

kerchief in his hand, which was so large that

I

mistook

it

for a towel.

The Princesses formed a kind

round him

all

of semicircle

salaamed him, to which he

responded by an affable smile, patted the Grand

Pacha on the cheek, and passed through with*

out uttering a syllable.
set

me by

followed the example

the Princesses, curtseyed to him,

which salutation he returned by bowing.

As

had not yet been introduced

Highness, Ismael Pacha, the Viceroy,

to
I

His
inno-

161

CHILDISH BRUTALITY.

cently enough considered that this gentleman

must be the Viceregal

The

little

barber.

Prince partook of his breakfast as

usual at twelve o'clock, after which he

himself

amused

by playing about the room with some

had presented to

of the English toys which I

him.

Whilst engaged in that occupation, one of

female slaves,

the

was

his

half-sister,

daughter by a slave
of

little

whom

and

girls

that

afterwards found

the

is,

(for his staff

Viceroy's

was composed

boys), offended him.

He

immediately seized hold of her by both her

arms, pinched
tiger bit

them

them most violently, and like a

until he drew blood, after which

he put his fingers into the poor

little creature's

mouth, and tore both sides of

until the blood

streamed

him

down

it,

her chin like water.

I scolded

when His Highness

and walked away into another

well for such brutality,

burst into tears,

apartment.
Scarcely had the

little

Prince proceeded a

few paces, when he was met by H.H. the

Princess Epouse, who inquired the cause of
his grief, as

VOL. L

it

appears that

all

Turkish and

HAREM

162

LIFE.

Egyptians have a perfect horror of seeing any

person in

The

tears.

facts

who made

were explained to Her Highness,

the poor

by her

so barbarously treated
skirts of his coat,

when

slave

was not

slave

little

who had been

son, first kiss the

and then the

But

carpet.

pointed out to Her Highness that the

to blame, the Princess merely

laughed, exclaiming, " Malesch,

does not matter."

pacified,

Madame,"

" it

Then the Prince became

and resumed

Soon

amusements.

his

woman named Khoda,

Harem, who was about

afterwards a middle-aged

mother of the

the
fifty

years

of

age,

accompanied by four

entered

apartment,

the

women much

older than

herself.

This important personage,

wife, doctor, friend,

bridal-chamber

in the
nesses
is

and

who

acts as

counsellor,

when any

is

mid-

present

of His High-

daughters or slaves are married.

She

one of the most powerful and influentia1

of the

To her

whole of the inmates of the Harem.

is

confided

all

the political changes

which are hatched within

its

the very focus of intrigue

as it is

walls

for it is

but natural

163

VISIT OF RHODA.
to

suppose that their Highnesses the Vice-

when enjoying

roys,

far niente,
and chatter away as

their

dolce

throw

off

all

much

as

Turks are ever prone to

that

is

restraint,

clo,

(and

never very much,) to their wives, as

and doings of

to the sayings

associates

in commerce,

and

their ministers,

But

favourites.

Ismael Pacha places his trust in and confides

his secrets to the care of the Princess Valide, his

widow

august mother, the clever intriguing

of

that singular Prince the late Ibrahim Pacha.

all

Still,

members

the Princesses belonging to the other

of the Viceregal family of Egypt, both

widows, wives, and daughters, pay occasional

visits to their

whom

Highnesses the three wives, with

they generally pass the day

conversation,

brief

naturally turns

and curt though

upon the plans and

their liege lords,

and

their

it

be,

actions of

and then the Harem becomes

the arena of
" That vermin slander, bred in abject minds,

Of thoughts impure, by vile tongues animate,

Canker of conversation."

She was attired in white

linen,

was inclined

to

HAREM

164
embonpoint,

agreeable

of

countenance,

She inquired of

short nose retrousse.

Arabic whether

LIFE.

me

in

spoke Italian, and receiving a

reply in the affirmative, she then asked

were married

and

how

long

had

been

if I

so

had lived ? what my parents were ?

and a number of other commonplace ques-

where

tions.

Having

me

have the kindness to show her

to

satisfied her queries, she

asked

my

wardrobe.

Conducting her into

my

room, into which I

was followed by a whole bevy

of white

and

black slaves, I placed in her hands several

articles

of

bonnets,

wearing apparel, such as

hats,

to the slaves,

&c.

dresses,

She passed them

and coolly walked

into the Eeception Hall,

off

over

with them

and there exhibited

H.H. the Princess Epouse, who admired them, and seemed particularly pleased
with the hats and bonnets, all of which she

them

to

requested

me

might

how they became

see

to put on, so that

Her Highness

me.

After she had amused herself in that manner,

the Princess retired to her chamber to take her
siesta.

then went

down

into

the

Stone

MORE ANNOYANCE.
Hall,

where

luncheon,

partook of what was to

and was

again

mortification of having the

maid
I

as

my

subjected

165

me my
to

the

German laundry-

companion, notwithstanding that

had already complained

such treatment.

to

Her Highness of

HAREM

166

LIFE.

CHAPTER

X.

His Highness the Grand Pacha partook of

his

supper at half-past

again promenaded
past seven,

when

five,

which we

after

in the gardens until half-

took him

in,

and handed

His Highness over to the care of the head-

Then

nurse.

changed

my

retired to

dress,

Stone Hall to partake of

the

Harem, and

While

me
fall,

it

dinner,

my

continued

H.H. the Viceroy's

quitting

slave

day of

first

so

my

the

into

which was

was sipping

to

entrance into the

till

the day of

my

service.

my

the

little

to wait

upon

coffee,

who had been appointed

let

chamber,

which had been served up

similar to that

me on

my own

and descended

the china vase containing the sherbet

and broke

diately replaced

it

by

It

was imme-

another, which

was handed

to

pieces.

CRUEL PUNISHMENT.

me by an
the

of

head-nurse,

moment

to enter the room,

Kaduyah,

of

slave

me

inquiry
at

that

what had become

was the name

for that

who had broken

she told
for

Upon making
who happened

elder slave.

167

of the

the elegant china vase,

that I should not see her again

some days,

as

she

had just undergone

the usual punishment always inflicted upon

slaves

who broke

all

anything.

Eeader, will you credit it the poor creature

had actually been seared on her arms with a

red-hot iron

me

explain to

Harem
I

And

that

then Shaytan went on to

all

the black slaves in the

bore their characters about them.

had previously observed that there was

who had not undergone that

and, in short, many of their arms

not a siugle one

punishment
were

literally

covered with scars arising from

such brutal treatment.

All the black slaves

were marked with three scars on their

The Viceregal brand being three marks

faces.

distin-

guished them from those of private individuals,

who were

only marked with two

to add, not

Just as

scars.

Singular

any of the nurses were branded.

I

had

risen from the deal table, a

HAREM

168

LIFE.

young Arab woman entered the room

was

she

dressed in coloured muslin, wore a red gauze

handkerchief wrapped round her head

diamond

earrings

hung from her

beautiful

ears, a

hand-

some gold hunting- watch suspended from her

neck by a thick massive gold chain, having
also a rich Albert chain attached thereto,

tucked into her waistband.

Her

fingers

was

were

covered with superb diamond rings, the value

of

which would have been almost a fortune to

any European

lady.

She was the Prince's Dadu-nina, wet-nurse,

who had come

to

pay her

respects to me.

She

remained but a very few minutes, asked several

trivial questions, told

me

that she

was married,

that her husband lived at Cairo, that she was

about to leave the service of the Viceroy to

return to her home.
I

was just on the point of entering

chamber,

when Ehoda,

my

the mother of the Harem,

met me, and led me into the saloon occupied

by the ladies of the Harem. There were about
six or seven of them attired in different coloured
muslins, sitting, a la Turque, on cushions on

the

floor,

which was covered with a rich Brus-

169

INCIDENT OF TURKISH LIFE.

sels

carpet,

playing at dominoes, their most

favourite pastime

smoking

selves
tales

others were amusing them-

cigarettes,

and

listening to the

which each in their turn had been

re-

lating.

One
seat

of them,

and

offered

I declined

named Emina,

me

rose

from her

a cigarette, which, however,

with thanks

and,

knowing

full

well

that I never smoked, she did not feel in the

slightest degree offended at

etiquette,

my breach of Turkish

but returned to her cushion.

As soon as I had seated myself in the divan,

Rhoda related the following incident of the
manner in which marriages are frequently
arranged in Turkey

"Some

years ago, on one occasion," began

"when I accomthe Lady Paramount

the mistress of the Harem,

panied H. H. the Princess

to Constantinople, I

became acquainted with a

Turkish family,

who had an

named

She had just turned eleven

Sarata.

had been affianced when in her

only daughter,

fifth

year to a

young man of the name of Rescind, who was

then about sixteen, and to whom she was on
the point of being united.

HAREM

170
"

LIFE.

Eeschid had never seen her since they were

children together

so that

he had no recol-

Sarata had also lost

lection of her features.

She

idea of the photograph of her betrothed.

mother

therefore entreated her

all

to allow her to

have an opportunity of seeing him before the

marriage took place.

"The
parent,

old lady,

who was

arranged

so

it,

Eeschid was paying a

a very indulgent

that

one

when

day,

visit to the father, that

Sarata should conceal herself behind a macharabieh,

and thus she obtained a

of her

future

husband's features.

prompted her
hiding-place

full

to

Curiosity

remain some time in her

and she heard her father

view

say, in

reply to a question that Eeschid had put to

him, respecting the day on which they were to

be married,

'

Quail im

('

give

my

sanction

and the day was named.

" It

now

the period

Kutchuk

only wanted about eight days to

when

Hanem

addressed

be

Bruich
"

Hanem

by

who was then

called

(miss, or little lady),

would

Sarata,

the long-coveted

title

of

(mistress, or great lady).

Singular to add, Eeschid also expressed to

THE HEBREW

171

SPY.

mother a desire to obtain a peep at the

his

features of his future better half, for, as she

was continually lauding the beauty of

bride,

he

felt

rather dubious whether he ought

to believe all that his parent

favour.

Her anxiety

him dubious

his little

had said in her

to hasten the

match made

as to the personal appearance of

Sarata.
"

Determined,

if possible,

to gratify his desire,

he had recourse to a Levantine Jewess,

was

in the habit of supplying

many

Harems

of the elite with jewellery.

an

cunning creature

old,

who

of the

She was

and knowing how

completely she was the slave to that sovereign

ruler of the

sheesh,

Ottoman dominions, Prince Bakendeavoured to persuade

he

introduce herself into the hall of the

which Sarata was

her to

Harem

in

domiciled, in order that she

might be able to give him an accurate delineation

of the

features

and appearance of

his

betrothed.
"

The

maid of

sly faggot of a

to his residence

him a most

Israel returned

two days afterwards, and gave

flattering account of Sarata,

she designated as the

'

Star of Beauty

'

whom

com-

HAREM

172

LIFE.

pared her teeth to pearls, her eyes to

and

stars,

the arches of her eyebrows to the arc-en-ciel

(rainbow).
" It

of

appeared that she had been in the habit

taking quantities

Harem on

several

of

jewellery

occasions,

that

into

and

on

that,

that very morning, she had visited Sarata for

the purpose of calling for some watch-charms,

And

keys, &c. that required to be repaired.

it is

no uncommon occurrence, where valuable

ornaments are taken away by such individuals

out of the Harems, that some of less value are
substituted for them, or else they are purloined.
" It

happened only

year, that

of

the

brought

at the latter

end of

last

H. H. Hawwaia Hanem, a member

late

an

Viceroy Abbas Pachas Harem,

action

in

the

British

Consular

Court at Cairo, before Albany Fonblanque, Esq.

H. M.

late Vice-Consul, against

and Luigi Maggi,

Barbara Maggi

to recover a valuable orna-

ment, called girlandu, worth 2,5 OOl. which she

had entrusted

"The

bride

to the defendants to repair.

had found great

quality of those articles,

of the

for, like

fault with the

a great portion

modern bijoux generally

sold

to

the

173

BRIDAL PRESENTS.

many

inmates of

of the

Harems by those kind

of women, they were perfect rubbish, being

neither

more nor

less

than metal covered with

a thick plate of gold, and for which the slaves

pay almost fabulous sums.

"Keschid, thinking himself extremely forin the selection that

tunate

made

'

for him, exclaimed,

hamdu

billcth

pek eyou un

mother had

his

Allaha chuhur

('

Very well

el

God

be thanked!'), and at the same time handed

her a packet of gold.

He

also

pretty boxes of fruit 'and

handsome

vases, filled

with

gave her several

bonbons, and two

artificial flowers, to

present to his bride.

"

As soon

signed, the

They
silks

as

the

marriage

costly bridal

contract

was

presents were sent.

consisted principally of a parcel of rich

and jewellery, a

dressing-glass,

and a pair

of slippers for the bath-room, which latter

always considered an indispensable

is

article.

"Reschid, in return, received from Saratas

parents

quantity

of

body-linen,

fringed with gold, silver, and

silk.

of the parents exchanged presents

selves.

napkins

Then each

among them-

HAREM

174

"A

LIFE.

considerable period elapsed between the

signing of the marriage contract and the bridal

day, during which time Rescind

was occupied

amount

of the settle-

in getting together the

ment, while the bride's parents were preparing

her trousseau.
"

At length

the joyful day arrived, and the

festivities lasted four

day morning

days

that

is,

from Mon-

until sunset on Thursday.

The

marriage night was fixed for Friday, which

is

considered the most propitious day, on account

of that being the

day on which Mahomet the

Prophet was conceived, hence the reason

"

The

bridal

families, the

and the men

chiefly in

ceremony was celebrated by both

women

according to their manner,

in theirs.

The

rejoicings consisted

grand banquets, during the intervals

which large quantities of

of

why

our [the Turkish] sabbath.

it is

preserves, perfumes, pipes,

and

coffee,

sherbet,

cigarettes

were

used.
"

most

reunions,

the

feats

others

lively hilarity characterised these

which were at one time varied by

of jugglers

and dancers,

by the exhibition

of

and at

Kara-kioz, the

THE LUXURY OF BATHING.

175

The parents and

their ac-

Turkish Punch.

quaintances passed twenty-four hours in each

others residence

and

so

numerous were they

that the divans in the rooms

and the Harems

were their seats by day and their couches by

night.
"

Each day had

its

peculiar ceremony.

On

Tuesday Sarata's trousseau was carried in

to

the

the

state

On Wednesday

bridegrooms house.

evening the bride was led to the bath-room,

and there underwent the luxury or torture of a

bath. For to my idea and feelings it is nothing

more nor

less

than a punishment to be scalded

with boiling water

like a

dead

pig,

and then

to

be kneaded about like a lump of dough until

your whole body looks like a

mummy.

The

hands of the slaves who soap your person and

rub you are shrivelled up like those of washer-

women

just taken out of the scalding suds,

in that state they remain.

number

my

Then an

and

incredible

of cosmetics, salves, dyes, &c. are used,

utter

abomination

(for

my

mothers

daughter has never used anything but healthy

cold water), which they apply before quitting

the bath room, where the whole of the lady

HAREM

176

and the poor women of the

guests

were assembled to meet

"

The

latter

themselves

locality

her.

had divested themselves

which they

rags,

LIFE.

in

left in

new

the

hall,

garments,

of their

and

attired

which

had

been bought for the occasion out of the sum

appropriated for the

festival.

Early the next

afternoon, Sarata, accompanied

and

sisters,

suite,

left

by her mother,

her parental roof for

Then the

that of her husband.

parents, the

who had been invited by both

men and the women belonging

guests

the

Harems,

all

lasted the

assembled there.

The

families,

to

both

festivities

whole day, and ended with a grand

supper.
"

At the

silent

hour of midnight, Eeschid, after

having taken leave of his

kissed,
tives,

whose hand he

as also those of his brothers

repaired to his

he glided more
being.

father,

own Harem,

like a

and

which

into

snake than a

rela-

human

There he found Sarata, closely veiled,

The

seated on a divan, awaiting his arrival.

mother of the Harem, who stood in one corner

of the room, introduced him, as
to his bride,

who on

was her

his entrance

rose

office,

up

off

THE MOTHER OF THE HAREM.

her

and

seat,

177

advanced to take hold of

as he

her hand, seized his and kissed

submission.

Eeschid then

terious veil.

The old mother

it

as a token of

up the mys-

lifted

of the

Harem,

for

she was
'

A wrinkled hag with age grown double,

Picking bananas, and mumbling to herself

Her

rheum

eyes with scalding

galled

and

red,

And palsy shook her head her hands seemed withered

And on her crooked shoulder had she wrapped
;

The

tattered

remnant of a red satin hanging,'

occupied the corner, as motionless as a

still

statue in

"

'

niche.

its

must send that baggage away/ thought

Eeschid to himself; but this was more easily

said than
forth

from

managed.

'Here/ said

his pocket a

he,

silk purse,

drawing
'are

two

them and begone/

The old hag did not move a muscle.
"
Take any one of these
exclaimed the
bridegroom, holding out his hand in which lay
several purses, some with five, six, eight, and
hundred

piastres, take

"

'

'

ten hundred piastres.

" Still the old creature did not

Sarata was smiling

mask, yclept
VOL.

I.

all

veil.

this

budge an

inch.

time beneath her

HAREM

178

"At

LIFE.

length, Keschid, thinking that

was

it

quite time to put an end to this farce, pushed

the old hag

out

Then he

chamber.

of the

turned round and looked upon Sarata's face

the

first

time.

disappointed

But, alas

he was most woefully

was not the beauteous

for Sarata

who had taken

Peri, the crafty Jewess,

sheesh from

As soon

all parties,

as

had led him

Ehoda had

bak-

to believe."

finished this reminis-

my

cence of her visit to Stamboul, I regained

chamber, and added a few pages to

It

was a most lovely

for

night.

by the open window, there

I sat

my journal.
on my box

quite

" Enchanted I gazed

On

the rare beauties of the moonlight scene

Conspicuous the Vice Regal Pavilion blazed

Upon

a sloping bank of softest green,

A fairer edifice was never seen

The high ranged columns appeared to own no mortal hand,

But seemed a lovely temple, meet for Beauty's Queen
Like polished snow the marble pillars stand
!

In grace, attempered majesty, sublimely grand.

Gently ascending from the Nile's slimy

flood,

Above the gorgeous structure rose the shaded

The lofty eminence was crowned with wood,

And

hill.

the rich lawns adorned by Nature's wondrous

The passing breezes with

skill,

perfumed odours fill.

There thick ever-blooming groves of orange glow
their

And

there all lovely flowers, which from their leaves distil

BEATING OF MUFFLED DRUMS.

179

Ambrosial dew, quickly in sweet succession blow,

And the tall sycamores of huge girth a fragrant shade bestow.

The moon shone bright amid a sky serene

And bid

its

lustrous shade glide o'er the tide.

The far-famed slimy Nile, at a distance seen,

Bounds the sweet landscape on the western side
While closing round it with majestic pride,
The lofty rocks 'mid citron groves arise,

Where Egypt's

but

my

princely Viceroy

reverie

now

resides

;"

was soon disturbed by the

sound of the beating of muffled drums

my

ears,

March

which brought to

in Saul "

glancing in the

my mind

when played

Leaning out of

funeral

direction

the

falling

the "

on

Dead

at a soldier's

window, and

of His

Highness's

pavilion, I perceived a female figure enveloped

black hubarah, shuffling, (for no

in a large

Turkish or Egyptian

woman

can walk) along

towards the gate that leads into the pavilion

gardens.

She was preceded by two eunuchs

then followed several boy eunuchs beating their

muffled drums, which I was afterwards in the
habit of

hearing of a night,

almost as

fre-

quently as the beating of the tattoo in India,

and
" I hated

its

mournful and discordant sound,

Parading round, and round, and round

N 2

HAREM

180

LIFE.

To wanton slaves it baksheesh yields,

But in its noise the virtuous no pleasure
To me it talked of ravaged charms,
Of tawdry silks and jewelled arms,
And aching limbs and bitter groans,
And woman's tears and orphan's moans
All that Misery's hand bestows
To fill the catalogue of human woes."

feels.

looked with astonishment at this midnight

my

For some moments

march.

upon the

riveted

procession,

it

glance was

had such a

novel and singular appearance; but turning

my

eyes towards His Highness's pavilion I beheld

lighted

it

up.

Then,

placing
<k

my

ear

looking

and

achromatic opera-glass,

down on

through

at the

the

same time

window

Heard through the pavilion melodious music

And

lute

And

Then

and

viol,

sill,

steal,

self-prepared the splendid banquet stands

Self-poured the champagne sparkles in the bowl

The

my

touched by unseen hands,

the soft voices of the choral bands."

full

well did I

know

that

H.H. Ismael

Pacha, the Viceroy, was giving a fete that even-

ing

and the idea struck me,

proved to be the

fact,

that the veiled figure

was one of His Highness's

slaves),

who had gone

as afterwards

" ikbals " (favourite

to pass the night in the

MOONLIGHT SCENE.

181

far-famed " guest 's chamber/' in the Pavilion.

I

afterwards learned that whenever the Viceroy

required the presence of any of the favourites,

they invariably proceeded to his presence in

that manner;

and proud, indeed, were they

whenever His Highness delighted to have

their

society.

A few nights

afterwards, about eleven o'clock,

when I had closed my window, and had sat

down to continue my journal, I was disturbed
by the sounds of loud revelry.
At first I
was

at a loss

issued,

as I

to

knew

whence the noise

conceive
that the

eunuchs always

locked the outer doors leading

staircases

at ten o'clock.

Still,

down

to

as the

the

romp-

ing and laughing appeared to come from near

the

Harem

gardens, at

first

thought that,

perhaps, some of H. H. the Viceroy's guests

become rather

jovial,

had

and had rambled about

in

the Pavilion gardens, in the vicinity of the

Harem.
Listening, however, for a few moments,

heard the well-known laugh of one of

slave attendants.

Rising from

my

my own

seat, I ex-

tinguished the wax-lights, opened the

window

HAREM

182
softly,

LIFE.

peeped out into the grounds, and,

there, to

my utter amazement,

group of black female

lo

beheld a motley

Moving about

slaves.

them were figures closely resembling the soldiers, when muffled up in their cloaks, who
usually mounted guard at the outside gates of
the Harem.
I

my

Looking through

opera-glass,

immediately discerned several of the eunuchs

" tripping

along the verdant green

were dancing and singing as merrily as

were an

" elfin

if

about the impossibility of

Harems

they

band."

had heard much, and read a great

all

others

"

men

deal,

entering the

M
of the East, considered so " sacred

by

Moslems, that no true believer has ever

been known to

visit the "

Abode

But now that

true Mussulman.

female slaves of the Viceregal

of Bliss " of a
I

had seen the

Harem rambling

about at night with the eunuchs,

" the

guardians

of those girls," and other muffled figures, I could

not help giving credence to the assertion of a

celebrated writer on Oriental

and cross-grained
there are

that

many

sovereign

of

as the

life,

that,

crabbed

eunuchs

may

be, still

them who bow the knee

ruler

of Egypt, Prince

to

Bak-

HOUSEHOLD EXPENDS.

183

and that golden keys do sometimes

sheesh,

throw back the rusty hinges of the doors they

guard

or else

bow came

the slaves and their

partners, those muffled figures,

"

To be dancing on the verdant lawn,

In the bright moonlight."

Then

remembered Mr. B/s narrative of the

eunuch, Dafay, whose wife had a numerous

family; and having myself witnessed several of
these spectres of

mankind

with the black female

infirmity of body,

them.

toying and wooing

slaves, I

"

doubted their

and kept a watchful eye over

would never allow any of the female

slaves to sleep within

which

"

my

chamber, the door of

both locked and bolted within nightly.

had an excellent opportunity of remark-

money squandered
Harems of Ghezire

ing the immense sums of

away

in

the

Viceregal

and Alexandria,

The annual supply of the

richest silks, satins, velvets, laces, muslins,

numerous
boots,

articles of

shoes,

female

slippers,

attire,

and

together with

confectionery,

bonbons,

golden-leaved tobacco, Schiedam, perfumes, and

a whole host of miscellaneous European

articles,

HAREM

184

LIFE.

of which His Highness's associates, Messrs. H.

had the supply, could not have cost less than

The amount that their
100,000?. per annum.
Highnesses expended in jewels alone averaged

annum

3,0 OOl. per

the

sum

upon

sacrificed

the altar of Prince Baksheesh cannot fall far

short of

70,0 001.

expenses

of the

44,000Z. per

per annum,

household must amount to

annum

so that

mated the Viceregal Harem

Viceroy

no

and the bare

less

costs

and

this

to

I feel assured,

is,

be

esti-

H. H. the

sum than 25 0,00 01.

300,000?. per annum, or 250?.

head

may

it

within bounds, because

it

300?.

to

per

considerably

must be borne m mind

that their Highnesses the Princesses distribute

baksheesh,
costly

and a supply of both plain and

attire,

to those

around them with no

sparing hand.

The census
slaves

of the

Harem

and eunuchs included

is

and

150 to 200,
as Messrs.

have the supply of everything, their

must be enormous

for

and

charged

marketable

to

rates.

profits

every commodity

purchased by them in bulk, at wholesale

H. H. the Viceroy

H.

is

prices,

at

the

185

THE VICEROY'S YACHT.

CHAPTEE XL
One morning when

was quitting H. H. the

Grand Pacha's Reception Saloon, accompanied

my

by

pupil, to take our usual

ramble in the

gardens, one of the eunuchs approached,

after

me

and

having made his ordinary salaam, informed

that H. H. the Viceroy Ismael Pacha re-

me

quested
beautiful

to take the Prince on board his

yacht,

The Crocodile, and that

should find H. H. the Grand Pacha's yacht, the

elegant Fairy, lying off the
place,

Harem

landing-

which would convey us on board His

Highness's steamer, which had proceeded farther

up the

Nile.

Returning to

my

chamber,

in a silk walking-dress, while

I attired

myself

Shaytan took the

Prince into his room, and dressed him in grand

tenue as a Turkish General.

HAREM

186

LIFE.

His uniform consisted of a pair of grey

trousers,
strap,

fastened

round

knees with a

his

patent leather knickerbockers, laced up

a

outside,
his waist

grey

cloth

round

buckled

kilt,

by a broad white web band, over

which was placed a jacket of the same

most richly embroidered with

Then a black

silver buttons.
tot,

trimmed with gold

and

silk velvet pale-

and gold buttons,

lace

and lined with crimson

colour,

silver lace

satin,

the

skirts

of

which were drawn back by a strap of gold

lace,

fastened

gold

button,

behind to

the

completed his

waist with

On

dress.

shoulders he wore two gold epaulets.

a
his

In his

pockets were placed two handkerchiefs, one of

red silk and the other of the finest lawn, each

corner of which was embroidered with white
silk

and gold thread, neither of which he ever

used.

They were never washed,

but,

when

crumpled, ironed out.

Leading H. H. the Grand Pacha by the hand,

I

took him downstairs, proceeded across the

garden into the Harem, and passed forthwith

into the

room occupied by the

Harem.

There

ladies of the

found their Highnesses the

THE
the

Princesses,

gether, each of

kissed

him

congregated to-

three wives,

whom

187

FAIRY."

took hold of the Prince,

several times,

and gave him messages

to deliver to the Viceroy.

As soon as H. H. the Grand Pacha had bid

them adieu, I proceeded with him to the
landing-place, where we embarked on board
the Fairy, accompanied by his usual attendants,
and the yacht steamed away up the Nile. The
Prince, as soon as he

went on board, where he

was received with The usual honours, hurried

down

the

into

stairs

kindly took

me

all

the

saloon,

and most

over the yacht.

The saloon was most elegantly fitted

its

up.

On

gilded panels were painted several pleasing

landscapes

The

ceiling

of

and

Alexandria

The

floor

The

with a rich Brussels carpet.

satin.

gold, covered

was covered
sofa

was of

with figured white

Large mirrors reached down from the

ceiling to the floor.

tops,

suburbs.

was painted white, with gilded

beading and cornices.

ormolu and

its

Ormolu

tables,

with marble

were placed about in different

also cane chairs.

were of white

parts, as

The cushions of the divans

figured

satin,

trimmed with

HAREM

188
brilliant

cushions,

satin

and

massive

gold

six

upon the

floor.

windows on each

plate-glass

which reached from the

floor,

Some black

tassels.

ornamented with gold thread

pearls, also lay

The

LIFE.

ceiling

down

side,

to the

were fixed in -rosewood frames, that could,

as well as the

wooden

jalousies, if necessary,

drawn over those openings when the

windows were drawn back into the sides.

At the

farther extremity were

glass mirrors,

doors,

which formed,

as

it

be

glass

two immense
were, folding-

and when these were drawn back the

whole appeared as one immense

saloon.

The doors having been pushed back,

entered

the other compartment, which I found similarly

furnished to that I had just quitted.

ing along

it,

a door on
this

back

lavatory.

not

the
I

Proceed-

reached a mirror that formed

right-hand

discovered that

Opposite to

it

side,
it

and pushing

led

me

into a

was the water-closet

d V Anglais, but a la Turque

which

consisted of a marble floor, in which

was a

hole cut, in the shape of a carpenter's plumbline.

had seen similar ones

at Troyes, in

France, on the line from Paris to Basle.

In

THE

189

DENTNCr SALOON.

one corner stood a silver ewer

filled

with water.

At the farthest extremity of the saloon were

two immense mirrors, reaching down from the
ceiling to the floor,

which formed folding-doors,

them back into their sockets,

both myself and my pupil walked out on to
the semi-circular poop-deck, which was carpeted and covered with an awning, and encircled
and on

by a

sliding

gilt rail.

After steaming up the river some distance,

the tender, as the Fairy

was often

called,

soon

reached H.H. the Viceroys yacht, The Croco-

and was hailed by the Captain Bachi, to

dile,

bring

to.

long narrow rowing-boat then approached

the yacht.

It w^as

manned by

fourteen

covered with an awning,

rowers, having

crimson

velvet-cushioned seats on both sides, the bottom

being matted and richly carpeted.

At

the

stern,

which was

raised,

sat

the

captain and four of the crew, holding the cords

of the red satin awning, lined with wdiite satin

and

trimmed with

entered

it,

gold

fringe.

We

both

seated ourselves under the awning,

and were rowed alongside the Crocodile.

HAREM

190

LIFE.

As the boat near eel His Highness's yacht, the

band of the regiment on board, (for H. H.

who may

Ismael Pacha,

be

the

like

said,

Chinese, to live the greater part of his time on

band with him,)

March as H. H. the

the water, always carries a

up the

struck

Sultan's

Grand Pacha and myself ascended the

which was covered with crimson

ladder,

The

cloth.

then advanced, saluted him, and the

officers

soldiers presented arms.

As H.H. the Viceroy had

ceeded into the

first

or

visitors

we

pro-

audience saloon, on

the panels of which were exquisitely painted

several scenes of the

on the

Between these were

Nile.

were, in

most interesting places

let in, as it

gilded frames, peacocks with

richly

their magnificent tails spread out at full length,

and several other specimens of the varied

thology of Egypt,

all

formed of precious

orni-

stones.

Also numerous bouquets of flowers and clusters

of fruit.

The

ceiling

was painted white, having

a beautiful centre-piece representing a battle

one of

scene,

Syria

Ibrahim

Pacha's

victories

in

the most conspicuous objects in which

were several wild-looking

horses, held

by Arabs.

THE VICEROY'S YACHT.

It

was edged with

191

beading and ornamented

gilt

with rich cornices.

The

floor

was covered with matting, over

which was placed a rich-looking drab ground

carpet, interspersed

Highness
silk

with roses and large blue

The

convolvuses.

divan

sat is covered

which

in

with red and white

and gold thread, which gives

it

a most

The framework of the

gorgeous appearance.
chairs were gold,

His

and the

seats covered

with

the same material as the Divan, as also were

.

the hangings of the doors and windows.

In

the centre stood a superb round inlaid table.

Mirrors were placed on each side of the entrance,

and

also

behind the divan, which was ranged

across the saloon on

generally

sat, so

that he could see every person

as they approached.

door,

which H. H. the viceroy

Passing through a panel

which was painted with a

the cataracts

up the

Nile,

saloon,

whose

similar

to those of the

sides,

we

ceiling

fine

view of

entered another

and carpet were

compartment through

which the Prince and myself had just passed,

except that between the painted panels were
placed

gilded

frames

containing

figures

of

HAREM

192

LIFE.

wild animals and birds,

all

having jewelled

eyes.

The

seats to

with red

the chairs, &c., were covered

satin, the

framework, chairs and

sofas,

were of ormolu and gold, the hangings and

doors were of the same material as the covers

In the centre stood a square

of the furniture.

sliding dining-table,

cloth

richly

covered with a crimson

embroidered with

gold

thread,

fringed with a deep border of bullion, and at

the corners were the everlasting crescent and

star.

Mirrors reached from the

which was painted an Egyptian

down

ceiling,

on

landscape,

to the floor.

Then

pushed back the folding

into their sockets,

glass doors

and we walked out on

to the

poop deck, which was covered with a handsome

thick carpet.
footstools,

Large easy rosewood chairs and

covered with green velvet were scat-

tered about.

It

was protected from the rays of

the burning sun by a snow-white canvas awning,

under which was placed a square one of thick

crimson

silk,

lined with white satin

and trimmed

with bullion fringe, with curtains of the same

material hanging

down from a gilt

rod.

Having

THE VICEROY'S BED-CHAMBER.

193

remained

for

some moments enjoying the

re-

freshing breeze which had sprung up, and which

was a luxury, we

at that season of the year

descended into the saloon, opened a door on

the right hand

richly gilded

into

The

bed-chamber.

Viceroy's

and the

and walked

H. H. the

ceiling

and beautifully painted in

were

panels

rosewood

of

was

fresco

highly-

between wT hich hung in superb gilded

polished,

frames figures of numerous animals.

This con-

stant display of figures of the inhabitants of

the forest impressed

me

with an idea that the

w hole

of the descendants of

whom

had not

as yet

come

naturally cruel, overbearing,

their

Mahomet

Ali w^ith

into contact, were

and even brutal

in

In short, barbarity appeared to

tastes.

be a legacy which had descended to them, as

had already seen H. H. the Grand Pacha manifest the

utmost indifference to human

and take delight

cruelty

in the

towards his

sufferings,

exercise of

inferiors

wanton

and the com-

panions of his daily pastimes.

The

floor

was covered with a crimson carpet

interspersed with
iron bedstead

vol. l

w hite Japan
T

roses.

was surmounted with

o

The gilded
gilt

knobs

HAREM

194

LIFE.

on the top in the centre stood a large

The hangings, which

crescent.

were of rich crimson

rods,

was

of white corded

silk,

The

silk.

gilt

upon gilded

slid

coverlet

superbly embroidered

with gold thread and trimmed with bullion

At

fringe.
table,

the

resting

foot,

on an ormolu

on which was placed a magnificent Sevres

At one

toilette service, stood a large mirror.

side of the

chamber was placed a superb

ebony wardrobe, and opposite to

cabinet

to

match.

The

stood a rich

it

was

latter

inlaid

a most

exquisite piece of workmanship, a perfect gem.

On

this

day

it

H.

so attracted the notice of H.

Grand Pacha, who must have observed it

many a time and oft," that he stopped to

the
"

examine every part of

however,
lock,

its

and the prince s

interior

was

it.

On

morning,
the

left in

examine

curiosity to

its

so intense that I could not restrain

His Highness from unlocking

diately

this

golden key had been

commenced rummaging

Among numerous
which attracted the

who imme-

it,

its

contents.

other objects of rare vertu

little

prince

attention,

was

a gold clasped red morocco book, about the size

of an ordinary note letter-blotter.

Taking

it

THE RED BOOK.

up and handing
would open

it

it

me

to

195

he requested that

for him.

Acting according to his commands

turned

the elegantly-chased gold key that was fastened

to

handle, in the Bramah-like wards, and

its

then handed the book over to the Prince.

took
over

it

in his tiny hands, turned

covers

its

He

over and

admired the elegant manner in

again,

which

it

were embossed, opened

it,

turned the leaves over, apparently expecting to

find that

contained some pictures or photo-

it

graphs.

however,

Great,

when he found only

was

his

disappointment,

a few pages covered over

with what he termed characters d la Franca.

Placing

that

"Ked Book,"

precious

which,

though not the Egyptian Court Guide, might

most appropriately have been termed, minus
colour, H.H. the Viceroy Ismael Pachas
"Blue Book," into my hand, I scanned the

its

pages,
I

and

guess my utter astonishment, when

saw that

it

other Princes"
I

contained a

list

who govern Egypt.

could scarcely believe

appeared to

of the " eighteen

me

as if I

my

eyesight.

It

were under the delusion

o 2

HAREM

196

Again

of a mirage.

Then

list.

reality

forth, in a

ran

my

eye

head of the

first

sheesh

page loomed

and

Princes

special

title

were

order,

those

full length, of all

their

of

Prince Bak-

and underneath, in regular

placed the names, at

that

was a

it

bold clear hand-writing, the

sovereign ruler of Egypt,

that

down

became convinced that

for at the

LIFE.

subordinates

and

opposite to each, in the red ink column, com-

mencing with that of

sums

were

placed

down

to 300?.,

and

my own
beginning
at

the

with

3,0 00Z.

bottom the

words "per annum."

nificant

special Prince,

Then

sig-

I fully

understood the force of the expression of that

clever contributor to

he

states,

up your
Nothing

"

Let your

petition,"
!

"Once

own

when

a Week,"

back

special Prince

&c, and what have you got

I repeat, that at that

moment

only

understood the force of that expression, but I

can

now

affirm that I have lived to experience

its veracity.

reader, it
less

Kind

re-locked that valuable souvenir.

is

indeed a precious volume

sum than

abstraction.

17,000?.

was

for

no

offered for its

then explained to H. H.

the

THE PIPE-BEARER.

Grand Pacha that

it

197

contained an account of

the baksheesh which I supposed H. H. the Vice-

roy was either accustomed

or else intended

Europeans

distribute to those

to,

to,

whom "he

delighted to honour/' and safely lodged

place.

had held a fortune

as " honesty

is

in

it

my hands

in its
;

but

the best policy," I left the tempter,

and walked away from the cabinet

wiser,

although decidedly not a richer, woman.

On

the top of this matchless cabinet stood

a most magnificently inlaid square ivory box,

which

also

attracted the Prince's

but finding that

to

the

it

was locked, he turned round

Viceroy's

who may

attention

TchibouJcdji,

" pipe bearer,"

be termed His Highness's factotum.

The individual holding

this

office

is

one of

the most influential persons about his person,

since he possesses the

power

to refuse all ad-

mittance to the Viceregal presence, and can at

all

times

In short,

command
it may be

the ear of his august liege.

remarked, that he seldom or

never quits the Viceregal presence by night

nor day.
I

have often been with His Highness, Ismael

Pacha,

when

the world

may

have thought that

HAREM

198

we were
take

" all alone, all alone

may

but you

"

my

granted that, as

for

it

LIFE.

footsteps ap-

proached towards the Viceregal sanctorum, the

Tchiboukdji vanishes,
sight,

Asmodeus-like, out

undoubtedly exclaiming to himself,

Oberon

in the "
"

like

Midsummer s Night's Dream,

But who comes here

And

of

am

invisible,

I will overhear their conference

and snugly ensconced himself behind the hangings of either the doors or windows, as was his

Had

wont.
there

that

would that

drapery been drawn aside,

faithful being

have been found

standing as motionless and breathless as the

believe

Don Giovanni " so that you may

me when I say that, shrouded as it

were in

his invisibility,

spectre in "

he

is

ever present at

all

interviews which take place between His Highness

and

his

male favourites, associates

commerce, ministers, ah

own

Prince,"

Princes

or

and even when

and

in

our

any of the other seventeen

who govern Egypt

obtain audiences.

Thus does he become the depository

private

"

state secrets.

about the Viceregal person

of both

His smile to
is

all

Kke the "new

THE IV0KY BOX.

born day," but his frown

bosom

his

friend,

like the

is

impene-

The Grand Eunuch

trable darkness of night.

is

199

and when smoking

their

delicious golden-coloured tobacco together, (ren-

dered

still

more acceptable by the addition

mite of opium,)

is it

not possible that he

of a

may

have exclaimed, in the beautiful language of

the Prince of Poets
"

To
I

tell

But that

am

forbid

the secrets of the prison-house,

would a

tale unfold,

whose

lightest

word

Would harrow up thy soul, freeze thy young blood

Make thy two eyes like stars, start from their spheres
Thy knotted and combined locks to part,
;

And

each particular hair to stand on end,

Like

quills

upon the

fretful porcupine."

The Tchiboukdji immediately produced a small

key and opened the box.

H.H. the Grand Pacha gazed with delight

upon the contents

of both the compartments.

The top one contained numerous small purses

filled

with Egyptian

silver

paras, and sove-

reigns, both Egyptian, English,

and Turkish,

French napoleons, and gold ten and five-franc

pieces.

Lifting

partment was

up the
filled

tray, the

with

second com-

jewelled hilts for

HAREM

200

LIFE.

swords, buckles inlaid with crescents and stars

of diamonds,

which had evidently been used

sword-belts,

many

for

of which must, from their

antique settings, have belonged to the renowned

Mehemet

Ali and the gallant Ibrahim Pacha.

There was another tray

mense quantity of

filled

with an im-

large loose precious stones of

Prince took up a

great value, of which the

little

handful, seated himself

upon the

began to play with them.

divan,

and

After he had amused

himself for a considerable time in that harmless

manner, he made the Tchiboukdji hand him

all

money which stood in the top

compartment, one by one, while he emptied their

the large purses of

contents on to the divan, and then set to playing

at

keeping a bank, his most favourite pastime.

Thus early did he develop that he inherited

his father's genius of understanding " the art of

making money produce a proper

As soon

as

return."

he became tired of that amuse-

ment, he rose up, leaving to the Tchiboukdji,

who was

of an amiable disposition, the trouble

of re-sorting

them back
After

all

the different coins, and putting

into their respective purses.

we had examined

the whole of this

201

VICEREGAL POLITENESS.

we proceeded into the grand

where we now found H.H. Ismael
the Viceroy, who had been closeted

princely yacht,
saloon,

Pacha,

with His Excellency Eeschid Pacha on our

arrival, alone, dressed

on a divan

and

la

Europeenne, sitting

whom I now

discomfiture, to be

whom

discovered, to

my

no other than the individual

had mistaken in the Harem

Viceregal barber.

to be the

curtesied

and remained

me

to be seated on

standing, until he motioned

the divan on his right side.

His Highness, who

his

is

most

affable

both in

manners and deportment, has a pleasing

yet thoughtful expression of countenance, an

excellent type of bonhommie,

and yet the very

photograph of the celebrated Rothschild when

leaning against the pillar on 'Change, minus
the Jewish cast of contour.

He

lineaments and attire from head to

is his

scanned

my

foot, and, as

custom, "he slyly lifted his eye's blue

windowlet," and looked intently at

considerable time, as

me

if

" His present mind

Was

under fascination

he beheld

A vision and stared at the being he saw

Thus strangely

in his presence."

for a

HAREM

202

Then he placed the

LIFE.

little

Prince on his

hand, and despatched the Tchiboukdji,

now

entered the apartment, to fetch a purse of

which generally contained about 5l,

paras,
the

left

who had

of which

contents

he emptied into the

Grand Pashas pockets to distribute as bakamong his attendants, the whole of

sheesh

which

was surprised

Harem was taken

head nurse, who handed
the

At

myself.

first

on our return to

to see

possession

I declined to accept

custom to receive such,

took whatever pieces of

me

the

the greater portion to

the coins, but being informed that

to

by

of

it

any of

was the

always afterwards

money Shaytan handed

the rest, as a matter of course, she kept

to herself.

The Viceroy then turned round

enquired

up the

if I

Nile.

thanking

would

to me,

make an

and

excursion

Replying in the affirmative, and

H.H. Ismael Pacha

curtsied

tion, I

like to

who salaamed

and
his

retired

for

his atten-

with the prince,

father, as

was

his

usual

custom.

On

descending the gangway

we were rowed

alongside another yacht called the "Ibis," on

203

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.

board of which we were received with the

customary honours, and passed the day steaming up and

the Nile, during which ex-

we passed within

cursion
of

down

sight of the palaces

Kasr Dubarra, Kasr El Ainee, and the

island of Bhoda,

celebrated

southern

the

at

extremity of which stands the Nilometer, at

the point where the river branches off into two

which passes by Ghiseh, and

streams, one of

the other by Old Cairo.

was

island

slime

of the

through which, however,

Nile,

several shrubs

portion of the

covered with the

time

that

at

had

as

thrust,

were,

it

their

branches; white ibisses were on the surface

dipping their beaks into

huge sycamores

it

in search of prey

spread their

grateful

shade

around.
.Those

beautiful

gardens,

the

Ibrahim Pacha, which stand on

delight
its

of

northern

extremity, were at that season of the year just

bursting forth in

all their

splendour.

waved

their

the gigantic Indian

bam-

stately palm-trees of the Antilles

lofty slender branches

boos,

upwards of ten

antly as

if

There the

feet high,

grow

as luxuri-

they reared their heads in the jungles

HAREM

204

LIFE.

There also were to be seen specimens

of Bengal.

of foliage quite foreign to the

soil,

but cut in most

singular fashion, as also fruit-trees, whose forms

are as peculiar as the taste of their fruit, all of

which give a most curious and unique aspect

to those

exquisite

gardens, which are

inter-

spersed with long and wide shady avenues, and

surrounded by almost impenetrable masses of

There

masonry.

with

flower-beds

flourish

filled

and emerald spots

brilliant exotics,

irri-

gated with streams of clear water, and large

patches of vegetable-gardens
state of

cultivation.

kiosk reared

its

the

in

small white

highest

marble

tapering roof above the dark

green foliage of the sycamores, and a stone

bank stood by the

river side.

The next morning,

as

soon

as

H. H. the

Prince had returned from his usual walk, I

obtained permission from H. H. the Princess

Epouse

to

pay a

visit

to

Mr. B/s, at Cairo.

Orders were accordingly given by the Grand

Eunuch
convey-

for a

me

barge to be prepared to

across the Nile,

was despatched
be sent

state

down

and a messenger

to Cairo, to order a carriage to

to the landing-place,

on the Cairo

205

IRREGULARITY IN THE HAREM.

no carriages or horses kept at

side, as there are

the

Harem

After I

or Pavilion.

had

been

embarked

hours, I

waiting

kept

in the barge,

several

landed

on

the other side of the Nile, entered the Viceregal carriage,

and forthwith proceeded

to the

bankers.

Fortunately, I found Mr. B. at home.

He

received

me

very kindly, and listened atten-

tively to

my

description of the inconveniences

which

to

As

had been

found

subjected.

utterly impossible

it

any regular system

as to the educational sur-

veillance of H. H. the
it

Grand Pacha,

deemed

prudent to explain in detail to Mr. B. the

difficulties

The
tic

to adopt

which

irregularity

had

which prevailed in the domes-

arrangements of the

trated

all

my

regular system.

to encounter.

Harem had totally

frus-

endeavours to carry out any

Sometimes

received orders

from the Grand Eunuch, which were issued at

the caprice of H. H. the Princess Epouse, who,

was perfectly ignorant as

manner adopted in Europe of training

as a matter of course,
to the

up young

children, to take the

Grand Pacha

HAREM

206

LIFE.

out walking at six o'clock in the morning

other

occasions

And when

o'clock.

gardens,

in the

to get

him

seven,

at

and

eight,

once the

little

difficult

His will was law

to return.

on

Prince was

was exceedingly

it

nine

and

no matter, however singular and unreasonable

his

whims

were,

still

he must be indulged in

them.
I

drew up a scheme

endeavoured
sanction to

execution

its

to be taught

and

H. H. the Viceroy's

obtain

to

me

plained to

for his education,

but that Prince ex-

that he did not wish the Prince

from books or

toys, as

he would

pick up English quickly enough by being constantly

with

me

that

so

abandoned

all

idea of educational training.

Then

explained to Mr. B. the numerous

degradations
called his

to

which

attention to

was

the

subjected,

and

that I

was

fact

unprovided with either chairs or tables

was obliged

to use

my

that I

trunks as substitutes for

such necessaries, which were

liable

to,

and

actually did, before I retired from His Highness's service,

Again and

produce spinal complaint.

again, as I

had previously done,

EXPOSURE TO THE

when remaining
add

as a guest, nay, I should rather

as a caged-bird,

I pointed out to

under his hospitable

him

me

roof,

that not only did I find

my

the Arab diet so nauseous to

oblige

20

SUNT.

to live chiefly

taste as to

upon dry bread and a

little

pigeon or mutton, but that, owing to the

want

of

more nourishing

European cooking,
ally sinking

found

and especially

food,

my

strength gradu-

day by day; and that the con-

stant use of coffee,

and the

total deprivation

of those stimulants, such as malt liquor

wine, to which

and

of

which

had always been accustomed,

it

is

absolutely

that Europeans should partake in

tries,

and

necessary

warm

coun-

to counteract the hostile debilitating effects

of the climate, would, I fear, soon

throw

me on

a bed of sickness.
Besides,

was constantly being sent out

with the Prince into the gardens during the

intense heat of the day, the thermometer often

ranging from 99 to 100;

if

it

really

seemed as

H. H. the Princess Epouse considered that

had

been thoroughly acclimatized

before

I
I

entered the Harem.

Then the very atmosphere

breathed was

HAREM

208

LIFE.

impregnated with

continually

the

fumes of

which large quantities of opium

and other deleterious narcotics were infused,

tobacco, into

which

my

affected

so

began to

spirits

flag,

constitution

and

that

my

kind of heavy

I felt a

languid apathy come over me, that scarcely

any amount of energy on

shake

my

part was able to

off.

The irksome monotony

of

my

daily

life

had produced a most unpleasant feeling in

my
my

mind.

Not only had

lost

of

wonted energy, but a kind of lethargy

me

seemed to have crept over

definable

reluctance

to

a most un-

move about had im-

perceptibly gained ascendancy over

much

to walk, to speak (and here I

get to

mention that

extremely feeble)

must not

for-

had become

voice

to apply myself to drawing,

reading, or, in fact, to

tion of

my

my actions

make

the slightest exer-

any kind whatever, had become abso-

lutely irksome to me.

It
call

was not the

ennui which

feeling of
I

what we Europeans

experienced, for that sensa-

tion can always be shook off

courage and energy

but

it

by a

was a

little

moral

state border-

MELANCHOLY MADNESS.

209

ing on that frightful melancholy, that must,

not dispelled,

engender

insanity.

experience of such feelings

dered

at,

if

my

position

thoroughly examined.

VOL.

1.

is

in

if

And my

not to be wonthe

Harem

is

HAREM

210

LIFE.

CHAPTEK
Well, kind reader

XII.

there I was, totally un-

acquainted with either the Turkish or Arabic

tongues

unaccustomed to the

filthy

manners,

barbarous customs, and disgusting habits of

around

me

which

had always been surrounded

from

deprived of

rational society;

all

all

every comfort by
;

shut out

here and

hurried

there, in the heat of a scorching African sun,

at a

moment's notice

nothing

else

upon

absolutely living

but dry bread and a

little

pigeon

or mutton, barely sufficient to keep body and

soul together.

but

my

coffee)

ing

Compelled to take

scanty breakfast (a dry

in the society of

German peasant

all

roll

my

meals

and cup of

two clownish disgust-

servants

lacking

the

stimulants so essentially necessary for the preservation

of

health in

such a hot climate

THE "IKBALS."

211

stung almost to death with mosquitoes, tor-

mented with

who were

flies,

and surrounded with beings

breeders of vermin

a daily witness

of manners the most repugnant, nay, revolting,

the

to

of

delicacy

European

female

often have I seen, in the presence of

my

for

little

Prince,
u

A lady of the

Harem, not more forward than all the rest,

it must be confessed,
Shuffle off her garments, and let her figure stand revealed
Like that of Venus who no charms concealed "

Well versed

in Syren's arts,

Surrounded by intriguing Arab nurses, who

not only despised

me

but hated

European

in

me

because I was a Howadji,

their hearts

lady, I insisted

most assuredly

upon

because, as
receiving,

and

did receive, so far as H. H. the

Viceroy and their H. H. the Princesses, the three

wives, were concerned, proper respect.
fact of
all

the

Ikbals,

my

inmates of the Harem,

" favourites," galled

and there

The bare

being allowed to take precedence of

is

them

even of the
to the quick

no doubt but they were at that

time inwardly resolved to do their utmost to

render

my

position as painful as possible, nay,

p 2

HAREM

212
even untenable.

LIFE.

my

Then

only companions

in
" These mystic halls so long from you concealed,

Whose

secrets are

by me

at length revealed,"

were the ladies of the Harem, whose appearance

have already described as being totally

with

variance

at

picture that the

glowing

that

prince

myth-like

Tom

poets,

of Irish

Moore, gives of retired beauty, so erroneously

supposed to be caged within the precincts of

the Abodes of Bliss, in his exquisite
" Lalla

Kookh," for therein

of

I failed to find

" Oh, what a pure and sacred thing

Is

poem

beauty curtained from the sight

Of the gross world, illumining

One only mansion with her light."

They were composed

of the old Ikbals, favou-

rites of Ibrahim Pacha,

had ceased

and some of those who

to rank as such, or, as the slaves

emphatically termed

it,

to please

the

"

Baba

Efendimir."
I

was struck with

sion, " please

their use of the

the Viceroy/' for

had been used

to

me when

it

expres-

was one that

had an interview

213

THE LADIES OF THE HAREM.

London with Mr. C. H/s sister, prior to my

At that time
leaving for Egypt, by that Tady.
in

heed the expression

I did not

Ikbals had used

cance of

my own mind

they meant that

signifi-

was perfectly con-

that, taking it in that

should not please His

how

Hiohness, no matter

that the

understood their

meaning, and

its

vinced in
sense,

it

now

long

remained in

the Viceregal service.

Many

were very

old,

as

no woman

is

Maho-

ejected iiom this supposed type of the

metan

Paradise, as poor

Ah

of old.

when

the

ever

Hagar was repudiated

but hereby hangs a tale

except

"green-eyed monster," jealousy or

envy, for
u

Mean

And

souls wish sorrow to the happy-minded,

hate the sun that sweetly smiles upon content

But when base owls and bats by mid-day blinded,

Accuse the

light, is the

sun into darkness sent ?"

sends her to her "long account with

imperfections

on her

head."

When

all

she

doomed, however, with calm resignation,

" She hears the fatal news

She speaks

not,

moves

no wordno groan

not, stands transfixed to stone

her
is

HAREM

214

how

but

LIFE.

she went, or when, no one

that mystic Castle of Indolence dare

within

tell

and

yet the depths of the slimy Nile, could they

would many a

but speak,

"

questioned

all

lesch
"

"

shake their heads, and utter that

Arab

significant

No

When

tale unfold."

expression,

matter, no matter

A word that gives

death and

In

example

illustration this

White

she disappeared.

nary creatures,

life,

for,

Malesch

Ma-

"
!

makes war and

adduce

truce,

slaves, all

most

ordi-

although

" I held a mirror to each Odalisque's face,

Of beauty,

found not a single trace

young and passee, were mingled

indiscrimi-

nately together.

Black slaves were there, disgusting looking

negresses with low foreheads, sure sign of cunning, malice, deceit,

and treachery, sunken over

the eyebrows, not unlike those hideous-looking

beings the Cretins, with large rolling, heavy,

inexpressive eyes,

want

of

unmistakable mark of

the

intelligence

almost akin to animals

which
;

flat,

renders

women

mis-shapen noses,

wide mouths, projecting jawbones, black broad

THE BEDLAM.
long fingered hands,

lips,

coloured

by the use

Some had

filbert nails,

flat feet.

of their skin varied considerably.

bright glossy black,

brown, and

all

others

rather

possessing bad teeth, a rare

thing with the regular negress

all,

orange-

of henna, spindle legs, pro-

and not very large but

jecting heels,

The colour

215

their tout ensemble

and, to

was very

sum up

repulsive.

Their occupation during the best portion of

the day consisted in lolling or rolling about the

divans and mattresses which

ground, or squatting upon

lay

all fours,

upon the
doubling

themselves up like snips upon their boards

or,

was for
doomed to behold. These were proceedings
far more appropriate tobeasts than human beings.
Then my head ached again with the incessant clattering of the tongues of upwards of
two hundred women and children, jabbering
away like monkeys some in Arabic, others in
clasped knives, which pose plastique I

ever

Turkish

while

the

Ethiopian,

Nubian, and

Abyssinians were constantly hooping and hallooing out most indecent language in their

own

vernacular, since they do not, like Europeans,

consider that

HAREM

216
"

LIFE.

Immodest words admit of no defence,

For want of decency is want of sense
She that brings fulsome objects to my view,
As many old did do, and many new,
;

With nauseous images my fancy fills,

And all goes down as oxymel of quills

made such

hubbub that

it

was

;"

like "

Bedlam

let loose/'

Pray, kind reader, just picture yourself sur-

rounded by such a motley group of beings,

me in their unknown
moment I did not under-

gabbling, chattering to

tongues

(for at that

stand either Arabic or Turkish,) and making

grimaces like monkeys from four o'clock in the

morning until ten at night incessantly and then

;

you may form some idea of

life

in the

Harem

that myth-like Elysium of the fertile imagination of both western

My
to be

and eastern

conduct in this "

marked

poets.

Mansion of

Bliss "

had

with the greatest circumspection,

in order not to

awaken the jealousy

of their

H. H. the Princesses, the Three Wives, and

H. H.

the

Viceroy's

Ikbal's favourite

slaves.

Their Highnesses watched my actions and

movements with the closest interest I should
rather add with alarm, lest H. H. the Viceroy
;

217

THE VICEROY'S UNCLE.

should bestow upon

me what

they in their total

ignorance of European manners and customs

might be led

to

construe with attention too

marked.
All were Arabs, and

Nubians
that

and well did

many

of the favourites

remember the account

Warburton has given of the revenge taken

by that Nubian, Malek of Shendy, surnamed

" The Tiger," who burnt His Highness s uncle,
Ismael Pacha, Mahomet Ali's second son, on a
funeral pyre, because that young prince struck
him with his pipe across the face, and yelled
triumphantly with delight when he heard his
dying screams.
I

talk

had

also

the

of

heard the slaves in the

sudden disappearance

Harem

of a

fa-

vourite slave some short time before I entered

that " Castle of Pleasure

particularly

Viceroy s

Harem

instructed

" partners "

"

and

by one
(as

the

as I

had been

of

H.H. the

ladies

of

the

styled him) not to allow His High-

ness to partake of anything that

previously examined

by the

"

had not been

Hekim Bachi"

(Viceregal Doctor), lest he should be poisoned,

I

very naturally kept a sharp look-out, in case

HAREM

218

LIFE.

an attempt should be made to remove

me

by-

similar means.
I

knew that

the head-nurse hated me, simply

because more respect was paid to

was shown

negress offered
I

On

to herself.

me an apple

than

one occasion that

but, looking round,

who had been one

perceived a slave,

me

of

H.H.

the Viceroy's favourites, fix her large blue eyes

upon the
"

nurse,

who

changed

colour

although black as ebony she was,"

blushed

and

recalling to

cumstance, as told to

me

my mind

in the

for,

still

she

the

cir-

Harem, of the

nephew handing a Viceroy the poisoned

dates, I declined the fruit, and after that

little

Shaytan ever afterwards abstained from offering

me any
herself
I

more.

was on
I

tion

by

The

vile

wretch had betrayed

by her own countenance, and henceforth

my

guard.

soon became aware of the dangerous posioccupied,

tact

and resolutely determined,

and prudence,

to gain not only the

esteem but the confidence

(as

Mr. Cohen had

advised me) of their Highnesses the Princesses

and

can

that, after I

say,

with feelings of

satisfaction,

had fought "the battle" on

my

MR.
first

OPINION OF THE ENGLISH.

C. H.'s

219

entrance into the Harem, I was esteemed

by H. H. the Viceroy, and his three wives,

beloved by my Prince, and respected, yet
feared, by the whole of the inmates of the
Harem, from the Grand Eunuch down to the
meanest slave yet I never propitiated them
;

with that sovereign ruler of Egypt, Prince

Baksheesh.

No

attempt was ever made by Mr. B. or the

Messrs. H's. to ameliorate

H. termed
that "

my

we English

modate

my

position.

Mr. C.

complaints fastidious, and added

people never would accom-

ourselves

Prussian as he was,

But,

circumstances."

to

can assure you he very

much resembled a first-rate Parisian exquisite.

One thing which I can vouch for is, that at the
Hotel du Elrin, at Paris, and in his own house
at Alexandria
special

his

own

for

care to

had visited

he

it

took

have everything provided for

convenience, as in

all

probability he

had, in the capacity of a Crimean suttler, like

his

partners,

roughed

he had reaped the

it

first

in

the

fruits

from the purses of the English

countrymen he

so

war,

where

of his wealth
officers,

whose

thoroughly despised,

not

HAREM

220

own

feeling (to use his

to
I

LIFE.

expression) " disposed

accommodate themselves

to circumstances."

think he would have shown

much

better taste

had he allowed H. H. the Viceroy's orders

have been carried out

for the Prince,

to

whom

had heard styled by that immaculate Prussian

as

"barbarian,"

perfectly

understood

the

meaning of the old saying,

" That

when

a lady

Every thing

It is

due

state it

is

in the case,

else gives place."

H. H. the Princess Epouse to

also to

was through her kindness and attention

that I was supplied with a chair and table, and

night commode; had a slave appointed to attend

upon me, and H. H. the Viceroy sent me a case

of claret, a chest of tea, soup from his
table

when

was

ill,

ordered his

Hehim

own

Bachi,

"Doctor," to attend upon me, and placed a

carriage

at

my

disposal to take airings with

H. H. the Grand Pacha.

supply
partners

all

my

stepped

Baksheesh's

Orders were given to

But His Highness's

wants.
in,

creatures,

and,

like

one of Prince

"put a spoke in

wheel," and I got nothing.

my

Absolutely nothing

THE GERMAN LAUNDRY MAID.

221

His Highness the Viceroy, learning that

had complained of

my

with thorough

diet,

kindness of heart sent to Europe for a cook

and a German from Frankfort

commodating of

all

that

foreign cities

She arrived on the eve of

my

departure for

Constantinople, so that I derived

from her gastronomic

Harem

in the

only European

no benefit

services, as she

at Alexandria,

most ac-

was engaged.

and

who accompanied

remained

was the

the Viceregal

family to Istamboul.

The next morning

was surprised by the

my

German laundrymaid entering

breakfast,

and asking me

if I

room, after

would do her the

favour to speak to H. H. the Princess Epouse,

and obtain permission

but as

meddle

for her to visit Cairo

had been cautioned not

to interfere or

in the slightest degree with the domestic

arrangements of the Harem,

same time advising her

to

I declined, atr the

apply direct to

H. H. the Lady Paramount, to whose

suite she

belonged.

After that I was never troubled with

any more

applications, except to read the con-

tracts

and

which had been entered into by herself

sister,

who

afterwards came into the

Harem

HAREM

222
needlewomen.

as

LIFE.

Their duties

consisted

in

keeping the linen of H. H. the Viceroy, and

that of the

Grand Pacha,

in order.

These con-

tracts

were drawn up by a gentleman in the

office

of one of His Highness

then I learned, to

my

partners,

amount which

stipends were nearly double the

had been assigned

to

and

astonishment, that their

me

in the vague contract

that I had entered into in London, and

circumstance at once conveyed to

me the

that

appre-

ciation in which English ladies are held in the

eyes of this Frankfort clique.

The

offices of these

two German maids were

perfect sinecures, as they were not

more than two

or,

the week; but the

employed

at the most, three days in

airs

and graces which they,

gave themselves were most unbearable, and

was often obliged

and

easy,

nay

to reprove

disrespectful

them for the free

manner in which

they intruded themselves into the presence of

their Highnesses the Princesses.

One morning, when

hall

I entered the reception-

with H. H. the Prince,

was informed by

the grand eunuch, that the barge was waiting

at the landing-place to convey us to the other

AVENUE OF SYCAMORE TREES.

side of the Nile,

where a carriage would take

ns to pay a visit to the

widow

223

Harem

occupied by the

of the late Viceroy, Said Pacha.

After having been rowed across the Nile,

we

landed, entered one of the Viceregal carriages,

and, attended

by an

escort of cavalry, proceeded

we

to the Gate of Bab-el-Hadid, then

passed

across the bridge erected over the canal,

through

proceeded

by

They were

sycamore-trees.

and

avenue

beautiful

of

originally planted

the French, but which, through the fertility

of the
size,

they closely resemble a dense

that

so

forest

have grown up to an enormous

soil,

forming a most agreeable shady avenue,

assuredly the prettiest promenade, to a Euro-

pean s
is

taste, in

the vicinity of Cairo

by no means so
and Old

to Boulac

and yet

it

fashionable as that leading

Cairo.

When we had

pro-

ceeded half-way down, as the day was extremely

sultry,

horses

we stopped
draw

at

let

the

breath.

This drive afforded

seeing a

an old cafe to

little

opportunity of

of the suburbs of the capital

which are very

other objects

me an

interesting.

we caught

Among many

a glimpse of the fort

HAREM

224

LIFE.

which, that unfortunate French general, Kleber,

erected

it

is

prettily situated amidst several

unique country houses.

Soon afterwards we

approached that magnificent palace built by

Mahomet

Ali.

Alighting from the carriage

took H. H. the Grand Pacha by the

as H. H. the Viceroy

had explained

left

to

hand,

me

that

such was their custom, as the right hand was

left at liberty to

salaam with.

Our path lay through some very pretty but

by no means very extensive gardens.
They
are arranged in the

European

style,

and scarcely

partake of anything like Orientalism, except

the foliage and exotics.

keeps them in a high state

are intersected with

w hich have
r

German gardener
of perfection. They

straight walks,

some of

a most singular appearance, being

paved with mosaics.

The myrtle and jasmine hedges are very

pretty, and in the grounds there is a greater

the perfume of
overpowering than
be

variety of sweet-scented roses

which

is

almost

is

found in any other part of Egypt.

to

Here grows

the banana beside the orange, the golden narcissus hides its tender

head from the scorching

THE GARDENS.
Mexican tuberose germinates

sun, the
as

in

225

native

its

atmosphere with

b)oom the

and

soil,

its

impregnates

lemon-trees,

the

Here

odour.

delicious

odoriferous

as well

and the

lofty acacia Nilotica rears its head amidst the

numerous

fountains.

In the centre of

the

gardens stands an

what

elegant octagonal kiosk, and

of

European

architecture.

satin

curtains,

singular,

has beautiful

It

which hang

stained-glass windows, over

yellow

is

rich

handsomely arranged

with unique European furniture to correspond.

Proceeding farther on we reached the Grand
Kiosk, an elegant highly-tinished
It has

ture.

large

white

modern
marble

strucbasin,

with huge sculptured lions couchant at each

corner,

from which spouted forth streams of

clear water.

The fountain, decidedly the

lion of the place,

gallery, supported

extends

all

apartments.
regal style

is

by elegant

round
These
la

roofless

it,

are

and

real

but a covered

alabaster columns,
leads

furnished

into
in

the
truly

Europeenne, but having hand-

some divans extending underneath the windows

d

la

Turque.

vol. L

HAREM

226

LIFE.

Numerous very pretty

kiosks

hang, as

it

were, over the water, and yet the entire structure has the semblance of being neither

nor

than a fac-simile of some other Oriental

less

The singular

building.

which

more

is

style of its architecture,

only partly Eastern, renders

interesting

object

it

a most

upon, although

to gaze

then contained neither baths nor odalaks.

pleasing effect

is

it

Its

considerably diminished

by

the walls being covered with some very mediocre

Italian frescoes,

worthy of

which would be utterly un-

notice,

were

it

not that the subjects

are of a very interesting nature.

Here

it

was that a celebrated French

most admirably painted the

brated

founder,

almost
retreat

all
;

artist

portrait of its cele-

Mahomet

who passed

Ali,

his leisure time at this agreeable

and here

it

was too

when pointthat now adorns

that,

ing to that full-length portrait

the apartment in the Palace of Eas-el-Tin, at

Alexandria,

the

venerable

octogenarian

re-

delighted to amuse his

by impressing upon their minds how
boldly he had set at nought that ridiculous

generator of Egypt
guests

prohibition of the Prophet,

who

forbade every

227

THE HAREM.

Mussulman
up

to sit for his portrait, or to

hang

pictures of figures in their dwellings.

Murray

states, in his "

Hand Book of

Egypt,"

"had gas-lamps, and that

such was actually in use here long before any
the fountain

that

part of Paris was lighted with

to perceive any.
" the Hill," is

The kiosk

it/'

called

most commandingly

affords a superb vista of

but

I failed

El

situated,

and

the whole grounds,

the Nile, the lovely terraces,

all

studded with

fragrant exotics, and the distant verdant

We

Gebel,

hills.

soon entered the Palace, a large but

rather indifferently built structure.

Passing through the

gates of the Harem,

which were immediately closed

the massive bolts drawn,
courtyard.
door,

we

and

Then the eunuch unlocked a small

and we ascended a broad

steps of

after us,

traversed a small

which were covered with

staircase, the

fine matting,

which led us into a large apartment, covered

with a thick variegated-coloured Persian carpet.

The

ceiling

arabesque

was ornamented with well-executed

designs.

The walls were white-

washed, and the lower part had a skirting

Q2

HAREM

228
from four to

Dutch

LIFE.

deep round

inches

five

it

of

tiles.

The windows, which were

French

the

in

down to the floor. The hangthem and the doors were of rich

reached

style,

ings both of

coloured

silk

and muslin, looped up with

massive bullion cords and

In

tassels.

the

centre stood an elegant inlaid coloured marble

fountain,

whose waters spread a delightful and

refreshing coolness

all

around, for the thermo-

meter then stood at 120.

Her Highness,

the

of the handsomest

widow

women

of Said Pacha, one

I

had yet seen in

any of the Harems,

sat reclining

smoking

She was of middle

her

full

cigarettes.

brown eyes were

of expression

years

her

for she

stout,

and

stature,

still full

was rather advanced in

features regular

She wore no

type.

lustrous

on a divan,

and of the Circassian

corset,

but her carriage was

although rather
erect.

Her

dress

was composed of a very long maroon-coloured

silk dress,
full

which trained upon the ground, very

bright crimson silk trousers, over which

costume she wore a chocolate-coloured velvet

jacket.

THE WIDOW OF SAID PACHA.

229

Her head was covered with a dark silk

handkerchief, a plume of ostrich feathers hung

down

over the right

ficial

darnask-rose,

down

as

it

and

ear,

a beautiful arti-

highly perfumed, drooped

were on the

left.

black spot was painted in the centre of

In her small ears hung magni-

her forehead.
ficent

diamond drops and her alabaster-looking

;

neck was encircled with a necklace of

Her small hands were

finger

with

sparkled on the

little fingers

Her Highness

sat

finest

her

henna;

diamond rings of the

several large

snow

as white as

were tinged

nails

brilliants.

and
water

of each hand.

we

quite motionless as

were ushered into the room.

I curtsied to her,

while H. H. the Grand Pacha salaamed her in

She motioned to us to be

his usual manner.

seated.

The

whom

Prince,

she kissed several

times, sat on her right hand,

A whole

bevy of

slaves,

Her Highness,

everlasting

crescent,

who

on the

left.

in the form of the

awaiting the

still

interminable silence.

both white and black,

stood about

their mistress,

and

orders

of

maintained an almost

After a lapse of about

ten minutes the Princess inquired of me,

how

HAREM

230
long
I

had been

had

Egypt

in

And whether

LIFE.

How many

I liked Cairo

sisters

To which

interrogatories I replied briefly, yet with the

She then asked H. H. the

greatest politeness.

Grand Pacha whether he

liked me,

upon which

he replied in the afhrmative.

as

The semicircle of slaves now receded a little,

a number of black ones entered the room

bearing silver trays, which they handed to some

of the white ones.

On

small

filled

glass

dishes

the trays were placed

with Turkish

and

Egyptian sweetmeats, having three small gold

spoons in each.

These were handed to the

Princess and ourselves.

with glasses

we partook

filled

Other slaves served us

with iced water.

of coffee, which

After this

was handed

to -us in

elegant small zarfs or transparent Japan china

egg-shaped footless cups, inlaid with diamonds

and other precious

held between the

stones,

which stands they

thumb and

fingers of their

right hands.

While we were indulging ourselves with that

refreshing beverage, light, beautifully cut glass

cups

with

Europe

covers,

similar

for custards, only

to

those

used in

having two handles

CONVERSATION WITH HER HIGHNESS.

to

them, placed in small saucers

different kinds of sherbet,

on frosted
over

ship,

which were

removed

as they

with

were passed round

silver trays of exquisite

embroidered rose-pink
slaves

filled

231

workmanthrown

negligently

silk napkins,

drew near

which the

to us.

In conformity with Oriental etiquette we

drank about two-thirds of that deliciously cool

beverage.

This refreshment being over, the Cir-

cassian slaves then knelt

down and

presented

each of us with a gold salver, on which was

placed

fine

embroidered

muslin

napkin,

fringed with a deep border of gold lace, with

which we just touched our

lips

according to

the custom of the country.

Then commenced
tion between

a short running conversa-

Her Highness and

myself,

which

simply embraced a few common-place questions

as to

my

opinion of the country and the newest

fashions, the details of

the Princess

much

which seemed

pleasure,

as

all

to afford

Oriental

ladies of rank take great delight in learning

how European

ladies attire themselves.

After the lapse of half an hour the Princess

rose from the divan

and took me on a tour of

HAREM

232

LIFE.

inspection through, the whole apartments.

Circassian

and Greek

The

slaves followed us at a

respectful distance, while the black ones grouped

together and brought up the cortege.

rooms were very meagrely furnished

rather

add,

they contained

that

All the

should

absolutely

nothing more than elegant divans.

Returning to the audience saloon which we

Her Highness seated herself on

the divan, and motioned for us to do likewise.
She then clapped her hands, when the Circassian
had

quitted,

slaves brought the veil

worn
to

for

European

and habarah which

ladies

any of the Viceregal

when paying

had

visits

Princesses, out of respect

invariably adopt that portion of the Turkish

costume, and

fail

not to attire themselves in

a black silk habarah, and wear a muslin

doubled at the upper

had been

part, over their face,

veil,

which

on a small rose-pink coloured

laid

Cashmere shawl, richly fringed with a deep

border of bullion

When I was

lace.

attired in, to me,

costume, I touched

Her Highness s
saluted

me on

my

dress,

lip

who

my bal

masque

and forehead with

pressed

the cheek, lowered

my

hand,

her right

233

A MYSTERY.

hand, then touched her lips and forehead, and

graciously descended the staircase leading into

the

courtyard, walked across the yard to

first

the suspended

hung

Egyptian

coloured

before the door of the

curtain,

which was then

mat that

Harem

like

up by the eunuch

lifted

Her Highness having retired,

we found the Grand Eunuch standing upon

in attendance.

the raised stone platform at the grand entrance

awaiting our arrival.

H. H. the Prince bestowed baksheesh upon

we

him, and

entered the carriage, re-crossed

the Nile and returned to the Harem.

very glad that

visiting

Her

had had

Highness

this opportunity of

widow

the

of Said

Pacha, and from the conversation which

with that Princess

Miss

T.'s

visit

came

to that

was

had

to the belief that

lovely creature

had

not been the real cause of her not having been,

as Mr. C. H.

stated,

From

all

appeared to

me

the Viceroys service.

heard and seen,

it

allowed to enter H. H.
that

that she

had

had

actually been in the Viceregal

Harem, but why

or wherefore she did not enter

upon her engage-

ment

is

a mystery that

cannot solve, espe-

HAREM

234

my own

cially as
" that she

LIFE.

" Special

Prince

was well remunerated."

" told

me

Hence there

must have been some fracas, or how could he

have known anything about her contract ? But
perhaps, like myself, she

had occasion

to call at

the British Consular Court at Alexandria to

obtain her passport, which document

from

all

foreigners

when

they

is

taken

enter

the

Ottoman dominions, and being questioned by

either

H. B. M. V. Consul or his subordinates, as

to the purport of her visit to Egypt, she at once

entered into a full explanation of her position,

and was

called

upon

to

pay a

fee of five shillings

for registering herself as a British subject,

monstrous imposition, when the Foreign Office

passport fully proved her nationality.

SOCIAL LIFE IN THE HAREM.

CHAPTER

XIII.

most erroneous impression has been drawn

by authors

as to the

manner

in

mates of the Harems pass their

is

235

which the
socfal

life.

inIt

certainly true that the greater portion of the

day

is

spent in doubling themselves up on

divans.

Not

attired in costly silks of China's

looms, nor bedizened with

gems of Golconda s

mines, the Peri's within the Viceregal " Castle

of

Indolence,"

generally

crumpled muslin

dresses,

wore

dirty,

filthy,

just

as one

might

imagine the greatest slatterns in the back slums

of St. Giles's would be seen walking about in

when

all their

finery

had been pledged.

There they were to be seen smoking their

Tchibouks, or cigarettes, and drinking coffee d
la Turque, as dark
delicious.

as porter, but yet

most

HAREM

236
I

LIFE.

was quite astonished

find

to

that

their

Highnesses were about and stirring as early as

four o'clock in the morning, which was indeed

matinal, as I have before mentioned that the

Turks count their time from the setting of the

sun,

and

was then only a

little

after day-

Then commenced

break.
"

At

it

From

the first glimpse of day a busy scene

Through the rooms ranged the imprisoned bee,
Buzzed, bounced, and flew, as if t'were free."

the

of coffee

dawn

of

day the Princesses partook

and smoked

cigarettes

then they

remained quite

motionless,

dreamy

they never uttered a

state, as

apparently in a
syllable.

About seven o'clock they received a visit from

A crowd of old and
the Grand Eunuch.
young ladies of the Harem, and slaves wearing fashionable Parisian coloured satin shoes

down

at heel,

footless,

and stockings almost

were squatted on the

heelless

floor, like

and

snips

on their boards, in the form of a semi-circle

facing their Viceregal mistresses, while others

had gone and shut themselves up in

their

own

apartments, which they invariably did when

237

MORNING TOILETTE.
any ailment however

affected with

trivial,

as

they consider solitude to be Nature's best nurse

and the body's

The former

safest physician.

had been arranging bouquets, which are

gathered every morning,
placed

and

water,

in

as

the

fresh

they are never

latter

had

been

occupied in household duties, sweeping, dusting, carrying water,

and arranging the apart-

ments.

The morning

toilette

began by the slaves

bringing into the Grand Pacha's room several

small silver pans, not deeper than soup plates

but considerably wider, as also several small

and

pieces of rag

nesses

now

balls of soap.

Their High-

squatted themselves upon the floor

and tucked up

their trousers (I

and the Head

Eunuch being also present), and began to wash

their own feet, as they will not allow a slave
to touch them under any circumstances whatever, and they wiped them with towels.
After
which

and

silver

size

ewers and basins, similar in shape

to that

which has already been de-

scribed as being used

by the head nurse when

by

dressing H. H. the Prince, were brought in

the slaves.

Then they washed

their faces with

HAREM

238
pieces of rag

LIFE.

which they had previously well

soaped.

The

slaves then held basins before

each of

them, while others poured water from the ewers

over their hands as they kept soaping them,
after

which each held basins before them into

which water was poured, and which

they

fluid

threw, or more properly speaking jerked, into

their mouths,

and then cleansed

their

(which were not only irregular but

coloured)

teeth

much

dis-

with tooth-brushes and powder of

French manufacture.

They only combed

full of

their

hair (which

vermin) once a week, on Thursdays, the

eve of their sabbath, (Friday, Djouma,)

is

well

combed with

members of
moved from

it

brushed

at the

"

murder

will out/' the

the vermin family which were re-

damped with
tail

when it
comb

a large small-tooth

and, pardon me, but

well

was

were legion

with a hard

It

was afterwards

hair-brush

strong perfumed water.

well

The

back was plaited and turned up

round over the handkerchief with which each

covered her head, and fastened with small black
dressing pins to the handkerchief.

Their High-

DOMESTIC ARRANGEMENTS.

239

nesses never wore stockings in the morning,

nor did they change any of their attire

the

till

afternoon.

On Mondays
out

cutting
for their

they employed themselves in

pantaloons,

liege

lord,

dressing-gowns,

&c.

which were then given

German needlewoman to make up

and the slaves made up flannel things for
themselves, sitting on cushions laid down upon
the

to

the carpet.

The Princesses attended

domestic occupations of their

of

all

whom

own

to

the

slaves,

over

they possess -the power of

death, but with

whom

life

and

they live on terms of

the greatest familiarity,

and yet are

at times

most imperious and overbearing to them,

so

that their motto seems to be

"

And

Nemo me impune

lacessit."

evidently quite forget that

" It

is

a monitory truth I ween,

That turning up the ashes of the grave,

One can discern no difference between

The

With
for,

as

richest sultana

and the meanest

slave."

the cuisine they had nothing to do,

we have

previously explained,

it

was

HAREM

240

LIFE.

situated near the barracks,

employed

and only men were

The Grand Eunuch waited

the morning to know if they

therein.

upon them in
had any orders

but that was a mere matter of

form, as I scarcely ever remarked any particular

change in their diet or in the number of dishes

my

served up, during the whole period of

resi-

dence at the Palace.

Those who performed the duties of washer-

women were

occupied daily in their avocation,

except on their sabbath,

was not very laborious work,

table,

But that

Fridays.

since neither bed,

nor chamber linen are used.

Thus they

were engaged until twelve, when their Highnesses

It

partook of their breakfast separately.

was served up on a large green lacquered

tray minus table-cloth, knives and forks, but

with a large ivory tablespoon having a hand-

some

coral

handle,

the

their rank as Princesses.

evident
It

"a low kind

with a handsome silk cloth.
the

soofra,

emblem

of

was placed upon

of stool,"

The

covered

courses were

similar to those I have already described as

having been placed before H. H. the

Pacha.

Grand

That repast occupied about twenty

OPIUM

Then

minutes.
into

Khanum

Kaleouns, "pipes/*

which are placed small

more often
to them,

cigarettes

and

pills of

coffee

and each Princess

apartment.

241

PILLS.

opium, or

were handed

retired to her

own

Thus they became confirmed opium

smokers, which produced a kind of intoxication,

but in a

less brutal or offensive

of drunkenness, yet of a

form than that

much more powerful

nature.

Often times after the Princesses had been in-

dulging too freely in that habit, to which they

had become

slaves, their

countenances would

assume most hideous aspects

their

one dared to approach them.

the appearance of

all

their eyes glared,

eyebrows were knit closely together, no

mad

In

fact,

they had

creatures, while at

other times they were gay and cheerful. In short,

depended whether, during

all

far

niente," they

their

kef

had been transported

" dolce

in imagi-

nation into the seventh heaven of their paradise,

or

had enjoyed the

"

When,

And
They

bliss of delightful visions,

as if wearied out with toil,

bruised with pains of earth's turmoil,

for a

time in slumber deep

Lost themselves in dreams and sleep."

VOL. L

HAREM

242

Then they drunk

apparently
cess

not.
I

'

with water.

filled

had

H. H. the Prin-

me

to taste

me

so frequently solicited

in

to

do

it

that one day I complied with her request, as

was

off the contents of a glass,

Epouse had often asked

truth, she
so,

LIFE.

fearful she
I

put

ment

would

feel offended if I

took the proffered beverage, and

it

at

to

my

lips,

guess

finding that

it

my

did

when

utter astonish-

was not water but

Yes, actually and truly the veritable

wine.

beverage so expressly forbidden by the Prophet.

I

could hardly believe

my

senses,

not utter a syllable, neither did

express any surprise, but told
that

it

was very good,

subsequently,

learned that
"fate/'

when

it

attempt to

Her Highness

and thanked

I visited

but did

her.

But

Constantinople, I

was Carnabat wine; the Khismet,

of that extract, not to be

drunk by

Mussulmans, and yet of which the Turks swal-

low most copious draughts.

Then the

Princesses took their siesta, as also

did the ladies of the

who went and

Harem and

hid themselves in the most out-

of-the-way places imaginable.

head-nurse,

the slaves,

who had no

Shaytan, the

idea of being disturbed

APPEARANCE OF THE PRINCESS.

from her
self

"

down

down,

dreams of
in the

literally,

into the arms of

One

bliss/'

2-43

generally laid her-

bed store-room, and sinking

"

on her

downy

couch,"

fell off

Morpheus most happily.

day, however, H. H. the Princess Epouse

happened to enter

the

apartment,

Prince's

clapped her hands several times, but receiving

no response to her Viceregal summons, became

impatient,

and passed

Then we both began

to

my

into

apartment.

hunt every where

for

At length I bethought myself

of the bed store-room, and leading Her Highness up to the pile of mattresses, showed her
" the Sleeping Beauty " in her " bower of bliss."

the head-nurse.

But the
in
"

all

Princess,

who was an

probability

that

Sleeping Beauty"

it

Arab, thinking

was

pity

the

should lack the " Beast/'

rushed at the nurse like a Tigress, pulled her

by the

ears,

and boxed her cheeks

until her

hands tingled again.

Shay tan jumped up

me

with such an

affrighted,

and looked

at

meant

to

evil eye, as if she

say
"

But never

What

shalt thou

know, destroyer of

I alone can tell,

my

my

sleep,

hiding places keep."

R 2

HAREM

244

Having taken

LIFE.

their siesta, the Princesses rose

at five in the afternoon,

evening

which

toilette,

changing their
themselves

in

and performed
consisted

outer-garments,
neiv muslin

in

and

their

merely
attiring

dresses,

as

they

never wear them after they have been washed

when crumpled
out, and when too

for

morning-wrappers.

or soiled, they are ironed

them

faded, they use

The

slaves

as

adopted

also

the same plan, hence the consumption of cloth-

ing of every description was enormous.

For

even the Princesses, as well as both the ladies

Harem and

of the
are

obliged

to

the slaves, lacking wardrobes,

keep them

in

their

sarats,

"trunks," or yonks, "cupboards in the walls,"

or else

hang them up suspended on

the rooms

like a laundress

lines across

drying her linen in

when the weather will not admit

being hung out in the open air.
Silk

the laundry
of

its

coverlets are, however,

At
which

thrown over them.

six o'clock they partake of their supper,

consists of the

same

courses,

with the

addition of crude vegetables, which they eat

like beasts of the field,

the same

manner

and

it

is

as the breakfast.

served up in

AMUSEMENTS.

Then

Highnesses

their

promenade

245

sometimes took a

in the small garden

which separates

H. H. the Grand Pacha's apartments from the

Harem

after

which

coffee,

poured into ftndjans,

placed in zarfs studded with diamonds

and

other precious stones, cigarettes, and tchibouks,

" pipes,"

At

were served them.

half-past

seven the Princesses amused

themselves by playing at dominoes, and passed

the remainder of the evening in having tales
related to them, which often comprise incidents

which had transpired in the Harems of the

Viceroys,

and

ladies of the

their

widows

or daughters,

Harem, who generally

late

by the

select the

most lascivious about women and their imListening to these stories

moralities.

may

be

seen the then demure and solemn-looking slaves,

sitting,

down
the

or

more properly speaking,

in the

first

form of a

crescent, that

squatting,

emblem

of

quarter of that lovely luminary which

" Is a silver pin-head vast

That holds the heaven's tent hangings

fast,"

during which they are constantly sipping zarfs

of pure

Mocha

coffee, of

which they drink no

HAREM

246

LIFE.

than twenty-four daily (but then

less

it

must

be borne in mind that the Jindjans are not

larger than an egg-cup)

munching away

at

bonbons, fruit, and most luscious sweetmeats,

and smoking

cigarettes.

Almost every slave has her daily occupation

assigned her, for

each Princess employs one

another in

in arranging the cigarette-papers,

preparing the tobacco, a third in making the

cigarettes, a

tray,

and a

fourth

fifth

hands them on a

silver

attends with the light, which

consists of a piece of live charcoal held

between

a pair of silver tongs.

At ten o'clock they retire to

known them remain as late

rest

but I have

eleven,

as

H. H. the Princess Epouse would, at

when

my request,

make some of the Ethiopian slaves sing their

own melodies.
To use a vulgar expression,
the London itinerant Ethiopian Serenaders are
their gesticulations were so
fools to them
;

comic and

original, that

none but the writer of

a comedy, with the pencil of Hogarth, could

possibly have daguerrotyped

them

" Their voices melody from any man's

It tore

my

ears as

is

as

greater,

would the scratchings of a

grater,"

SCENE IN THE STONE HALL.

247

and they would have afforded Mrs. Howard

Paul a most excellent subject for imitation.

One Tuesday,

as I

was passing through the

Stone Hall on the basement-floor of H. H. the

Grand Pacha Ibrahim's apartments,

by the appearance

prised

which served as

was

sur-

of that apartment,

servants' hall, the governess's

dining-room, and dormitory of the black slaves

who
as in

are all

huddled indiscriminately together

an hospital-ward.

which beggars

all

It presented a scene

description

they

for there

lay upon mattresses on the marble

floor,

with

a large silver-plated lanthorn standing in the

middle, in which burnt a thick

wax

taper.

H. H. the Viceroy does not allow what

For
us

Europeans term plate to be used in his Viceregal "

Mansion of

never saw

Bliss," at least I

any thing of the kind except the

salvers

which

are used for the service of their Highnesses the

three wives.
in

smoking

magpies,

There they pass half the night

cigarettes,

and

and chattering away

telling

stories

to

like

each other

some talking Arabic, others Turkish, and by

far the greater portion their

especially

the

Greeks,

own

vernacular,

Circassians,

Nubians,

HAREM

248

LIFE.

Abyssinians, and Ethiopians.

" confusion of tongues,"

and

It is
it

a perfect

would puzzle

the most learned European polyglot to interpret

their conversation.

The echo of

their gabbling

has often, night after night, thrown

me

into a

nervous fever.
Well, on

day in question, that most

the

useful apartment
regal laundry, in

was converted

which

period looking at the

and her half-dozen

On
laid

into the Vice-

stopped a considerable

German laundry-maid

slave-assistants ironing.

the floor a square piece of matting was

down, and a large piece of

calico as big as

two ordinary sheets was placed over it. Kneeling

down on

it

were eight slaves with two rolling-

pins, similar in length

and

thickness, not

an

inch larger than those used by cooks for making

After having

pastry.

first

damped

the pieces

of washing, they folded them, then rolled

tight
laid

round one of the

down upon

rolling-pins,

them

which they

the sheet, and with the other

rolling-pin in their hands, they kept rolling the

end of
hands

it.

For they held

it

straight

like a stick against the other

which they had twisted the

linen.

up

in their

one round

This process,

249

THE VICE -REGAL LAUNDRY.

which they

called mangling, being finished, the

German maid began

ironing H. H. the Vice-

roy s and the Grand Pacha's body-linen.

At

eleven

(H. H.

the

the

o'clock

first

wife),

Lady Paramount

under

whose

super-

intendence the whole of the household arrange-

ments were carried

on,

entered the laundry.

She smiled at seeing me and H. H. the Grand

Pacha watching the slaves at their work.
She was both shoeless and stockingless
her feet were encased

but

in a pair of polished

wooden clogs, standing as it were upon two

wooden bridges, like the strings of a fiddle.
The parts on which she rested her feet were
lined with red velvet, the ties were of the
material,

and the clogs were studded

with silver-headed

Her

hair,

all

same

round

nails.

hanging loosely about, was tucked

under the handkerchief bound round her head

and the

sleeves of her dirty cotton

wrapper

were turned up to the shoulders, and there

tied.

And

thus behold

Her Highness, the

first

wife of H. H. Ismael Pacha, the richest prince

in the universe, save His Imperial Majesty the

HAREM

250

Emperor of All the

LIFE.

Eussias, in her domestic

circle.

Here Her Highness remained

all

the live-

long day every Tuesday, merely leaving the

laundry to partake of her meals and to indulge

in a short siesta.

Not a

slave

Her Highness

is

allowed to utter a syllable.

enforces the silent system

most

admirably.

On

that same afternoon, while I was passing

through the hall on

my

return from our ramble

had just time

in the Pavilion gardens, I

serve the

life

of

had been very

frain
fuss

my

it,

It appears a slave

Prince.

and would not

refractory,

from chattering.
about

H. H.

the poor

creatures

face,

killed her, several pieces of

Prince's coat,

tunately, I

and

setting

it

him

took up a

and flung

it

which almost

falling

upon the

in a blaze.

had presence of mind

of a flannel petticoat, which

re-

making no more

So,

the Prince

shovel, full of burning charcoal,

into

to pre-

For-

to seize hold

was hanging over

one of the washing-tubs or troughs, and, wrapping

it

round His Highness,

flames, with

extinguished the

no other damage than the burning

THE YOUNG PRINCESSES MANGLING.

of his uniform in several places.

Had

251
it

not

been a very sultry day, or had the evening

breeze set in from the Nile, the

would have

Grand Pacha

fallen a victim to the silent system.

Her Highness the Lady Paramount often

German maid because she did not
but I am
act in the same barbarous manner
scolded the

glad to bear record

that

peasant" as she was,

more of the milk

of

still

human

that

"bore of

possessed

little

kindness than did

her Viceregal mistress.

None

the other Princesses ever entered

of

the laundry, or superintended the re-passenses.

Each

of the

young

Princesses,

roy s daughters by his wives

less

justly claim H. H. Ismael

baba, and

Pacha

own
is

laid

Harem
as their

themselves openly told

with the assistance of their

their

rug

who have

no

(for there are

than twelve of the children in the

who
so),

H. H. the Vice-

me

slaves, get

up

linen in their apartments, where a

down on

placed a sheet.

the

floor,

over which

is

There they squat down on

the carpet, and both mangle, in the

manner

have previously described, and iron their own

linen, following the

maternal example set them.

HAREM

252

The

LIFE.

irons used are very large,

made

in the

shape of an English box-iron, with a spout at

the back of the handle, in which live charcoal
is

placed,

which has

are kept hot a very

this advantage, that

much

they

longer time than in

the European constructed box-irons.

Whatever may be
ration in Egypt,

inmates of the

said about religious toleis

that, while the

Harem always

observed their

certain

it

religious rites, so as to abstain

Friday

(their Sabbath),

tered therein, I was

rest

on

my

Sabbath.

yet,

from work on

when

first

en-

not permitted to enjoy

253

RELIGIOUS TOLERATION.

CHAPTER
had

XIV.

to battle for the privilege to attend

Divine worship

as,

being

ignorant

of

the

Turkish habits, no stipulation had been inserted

in

labour on

now

my contract that I should not

my Sabbath-day (which Europeans

take the precaution to have done)

but

eventually gained it
Their Highnesses never
thought that " the unbeliever of Hawajee " re-

quired such

since, according to the doctrine

of their creed, I

had no Paradise assigned

me

and although they believed

in

heaven

that
" She only

And
still

is

Moslem whose heart is just,

Mahometan whose life is pure

a true

she a good

;"

they had not the slightest idea that

" Seek right and purity the faithful Christian must,

And

this of

heaven will make the Pagan sure

to

HAREM

254

LIFE.

woman like, their curiosity was excited

learn how I prayed; and what my Bible

but yet,
to

(Koran, as they termed

my

performed

it,)

was

When

like.

devotions before them, and read

aloud the Holy Scriptures, upon

me was

fixed

many
"

A fine sly gray eye,

And

brown roguish

All turned upon

me

one,

their full eyes.

They behaved most decorously

Qaiyis

guzel

"

not a smile,
I

had

a whole chorus of voices exclaimed,

finished,
"

But when

not a syllable was uttered.

quiyis

" (Pretty

(Beautiful

beautiful

pretty
!)

!)

"

Guzel

They seemed

surprised that I did not use any tusbee (rosary)

like themselves

and the Bomanists

but

I told

them that
"

A golden rosary she never needs,

Who

When

tells in

love

and thought the

in Cairo, they

spirit's

beads."

had often passed

all

the European places of worship, and a most

singular idea haunted their imagination.
insisted that, unlike their

ing prayer,

when

own

"call " to

They
Even-

255

CALL TO PRAYER.
"

One

silver crescent in the twilight

Another

And

tips the

then the muezzin's

Through thronged
1

is

hanging,

sonorous clanging

call is heard,

bazar, concealed harem,

In the Prophet's name,

On

sky

solemn dome of yonder mosque,

God

is

God and

and

there

cool kiosk,

no

is

other.'

roofs, in streets, alone or close beside his brother,

Each Moslem

kneels, his forehead turned towards Mecca's

shrine,

And

all

the world forgotten in one thought divine."

Tlie bells, the hated Giaours' call to prayer,

was the summons of the Shay tan

(devil),

the

signal of
" That fallen angel,

who had obtained

Supreme controul from heaven down to hell
He all the humbler deities had chained,
Like rain his cruelties unmeasured fell."

At

first I

meaning of
ever, I

was quite

at a loss to interpret the

their conversation

how-

gradually,

began to understand them, but

expression

Shay tan perplexed me,

still

the

especially as

that was the patronymic of the Prince

head-

nurse.

Her Highness the

ing

my

Princess Epouse, perceiv-

embarrassment, sent Anina, the super-

intendent of the slaves, into

my

chamber,

quickly returned, bringing with her

silver hand-bell,

which

my

who
little

had brought out from

HAREM

256

LIFE.

Europe with me, and which stood upon one of

my

trunks, which I

since

was not

it

had converted

until the eve of

for Constantinople that

my

departure

was supplied with

Then about fifty

forth, Shay tan !
Shay tan
" The Devil
The Devil

necessary appendage.

that

shouted

slaves

Batal

Bad

into a table,

Batal

Bad

that

is

our abomination."

absolutely astonished at the energetic

in

which they shouted

was

manner

and the demoniacal

out,

my usual

gestures they

made

equanimity

calmly and coolly replied, that

bell,

by clapping

but maintaining

summon

Europeans always
ringing a

just as Orientals call their slaves

their hands.

It is almost impossible to

with which

our domestics

we
by

their

imagine the celerity

Highness the Princesses, the

whole of the ladies of the Harem, and the

slaves,
effect

even down to the lowest scullery

their

transformation from

girl,

slatterns to

" Peris of the East," the instant that substitutes

for the wires of the electric telegraph in the

Harem announce
Pacha.
if

It

the approach of H. H. Ismael

seemed

like a

pantomimic

harlequin with his magic

feat

as

wand had touched

THE TRANSFORMATION.

them

257

with his galvanic battery, for in the

all

twinkling of an eye their dirty,

and

soiled,

crumpled muslins, their Monmouth Street and

Lane finery was exchanged

Petticoat

geous

and

silks

glittering

columbine,

The

diamonds.

transformation was not effected

harlequin,

for gor-

like

that of

and clown,

pantaloon,

by a total change of garments, but by placing

them over their habiliments.
The scene was acted most inimitably it
would have been an excellent study for Hogarth,
one to which his pencil would have done
;

ample

justice

and

the

inventor

clever

that chair-trick, so admirably placed on

of

the

stage of the Princess's theatre during Charles

Keans
sented
I

such

able
it

management, would have repre-

capitally in a

pantomime.

had the pleasure one evening

a

scene,

of witnessing

on the occasion of H. H. the

Viceroy, having informed his wives of his intention to pay

them a

visit.

Of

this,

according

to Turkish etiquette, he

was obliged

them timely

any of

acquaintances

Harem, or
VOL. L

notice, lest

should

happen

visitors expected, as
S

to give

their female

to

be

in

the

no Turk ever

HAREM

258
enters his

have

own "Abode

visitors

It has

rule.

of Bliss"

if

his wives

with them.

always been asserted that no Turk has

entered the

but

LIFE.

Harem

of his brother Mussulman,

know an instance of an exception to that

On my return to Alexandria, previous to

leaving for Constantinople, I was located in

the

Harem

facing His Highness

Palace of

Eas-el-Tin, where I found great difficulty in

persuading any of the young slaves to go about

when

it

They assured me that

became dusk.

there were fritz, " spirits," in that Harem, and,

as

me

an instance, related to

that at the time

His Majesty the present Sultan visited Egypt

after his accession to the Throne, one evening,

when H. H.

the Viceroy was in the

his three wives

was His Majesty the

pean costume

Harem with

around him, a Ferindjee,

Sultan, dressed in Euro-

was seen

All the inmates of the

sitting

by

Harem were

yet none dare say a word.

that ghost, as the

for it

his side.

astonished,

The appearance of

little slaves,

His Highness's

daughters by his concubines, called His Majesty

the Sultan, (for
so frightened

it

could be no other personage,)

them that they have never

for-

THE GHOST.

259

gotten the circumstance, and in

never will

probability

all

and the sudden disappearance of a

pretty slave soon afterwards

left

no doubt, but

away to Constantinople.
The Sultan intended to do them the honour of

that she was spirited

partaking of their hospitality, yclept to dine, in

the Harem, an event of some moment, as such
occurrences were, previous to
angels' visits,

On

this,

my

arrival, "

few and

far between."

on

occasions

as

all

when

Highnesses had to dress to receive

on any particular

festivals,

Like

their

visitors, or

such as the Bairam,

(when they were attired in magnificent courtly

costumes, and wore jewels

that

would have

been the ransom of au Empress), they asked

my

opinion of their costume, the manner in

which they had adorned themselves with those

priceless jewelled "

gems of

art,"

which they

never wore except on such occasions, and

the

the

"

They
for

when

Baba came to visit them, the ladies

Harem and slaves, as on this evening.
"

of

are well trained in the art of hoarding,

they are extremely careful of their ward-

robes,

and those

have already described as

shuffling about on ordinary occasions in such

S

HAREM

260

LIFE.

crumpled gaudy-coloured finery

customed in England to see

(as

we

are ac-

strolling actresses

bedizen themselves at the theatres at country

fairs),

make themselves beautiful with

cosmetics,

the use of which they understand quite as well

as

any Madame Rachel of European

celebrity.

They wore the most

costly silks, richest satins,

and

softest velvets

adorned themselves with

the

treasures of their jewel-caskets,

their persons

That

so

were one blaze of precious

crescent

of

females

(for

that

stones.

they always

ranged themselves in the form of the Turkish

was then

symbol)

amethysts,
sapphires,

topazes,
jaspers,

parterre
turquoise,

opals,

of

chrysoberyls,

sight

emeralds,

agates,

corals, rich carbuncles, rubies, &c.

my

diamonds,

altogether

was absolutely dazzled with

" All that can the female heart delight

Of

fair attire,

And

all

the meanest drudge displays,

that gold can purchase the eye surveys."

In short, the profusion of diamonds with

which the

day

my

to

latter

day,

adorned their persons from

became

so sickening to me, that

eyes were weary at the sight of those

mag-

261

DISPLAY OF JEWELS.

which

baubles, to

nificent

women

all

are so

passionately attached
It

me

seemed to

absolute sin, that such

expended

be

on

monstrosity, an

quite a

immense wealth should

those

gewgaws,

brilliant

merely to sparkle on the tawny and ebony

many

skins of slaves,
in

their

customs,
totally
It

looks

and

of

whom

and whose

appearance

habits,

in

repugnant to European

was bad enough

were repulsive
manners,

general,

were

feelings.

in all conscience to be-

hold the white oustas, " slaves," bedecked with

gems of almost
sarui-Sj

priceless value,

many

of whose

"trunks," contained parures far more

valuable than most of the elegant

gems of

art

which ornament the jewel-cases of the noblest

and wealthiest of the lovely beauties of the

European Courts

but to know that upwards of

from 30,000/. to 40,000/. was annually expended

by the

billionaire of the world,

who much

of

his surplus wealth

" For Cupid's sake he gave away,

For bags of gold came to the Harem every day,"

in jewels for distribution

among such

group was indeed monstrous.

a motley

HAREM

262

As

all

LIFE.

gallant knights were excluded from

the precincts of this Castle of Indolence, such

a lavish profusion of wealth I could not unriddle,

except that they were offered up

sacrifices

sovereign

on

the

altar

that

of

as

immaculate

Baksheesh.

could

perfectly well understand the pleasure

which

ruler

Prince

H. H. Ismael Pacha
"

He

possesses

felt,

since

more than the wealth of Crcesus old

many diamonds bright
;

In bestowing on his wives as

As dewy leaves that sparkle in the summer's light,

Or golden sands o'er which the deep hath rolled."

by purchasing the
Golconda,

Peru,

treasures of the mines of

Brazil

and

California,

the

rivers of India, the sands of Arabia, Abyssinia

and Soudan, the depths of the Arabian Gulf,

and

in expending vast

sums

in the purchase of

those valuables which the collectors of precious

stones, the

wealthy diamond merchants of Con-

stantinople,

and the expert divers

had procured; because,

for pearls

at his death, those price-

less "

gems of art," into which the genius of

man had converted those valuable stones (small

them being treasured up by

almost every member, both young and old, of

caskets filled with

THE PRINCESSES' TREASURES.

263

the Viceregal family), constitute the sole private

fortune of their possessors, except the quantity
of paras, as they term the packets of Napoleons,

The

Turkish, Egyptian or English sovereigns.

latter of these

they prefer, for the best of

all

They

reasons, because they are the iveightiest.

have been provident enough

"

To have

Where

And

can

in those rich

all their

ebony caskets stocked,

wealth on earth

is

safely locked."

why

understand

His

Highness

displays such liberality to his consorts, for

no

one knows better than the Viceroy Ismael

Pacha how the

families of defunct rulers of

Egypt have been despoiled both of

sonal property

and hereditary

why

I never could solve

presented to the slaves of

I will

party.

now

describe

such valuables were

all

the

denominations.
Viceregal

partaken of by their Highnesses

extremely
It

was

addition
rich,

of

a roast

entremets, and

laid out in

But

possessions.

The courses were the same

with the

their per-

dinner

as those

when

alone,

turkey,

some

soup

pastry.

H. H. the Viceroy s private

sitting-room in the "

Abode

of Bliss," which

was

HAREM

264

and furnished

similarly decorated

the pavilion.

LIFE.

as that in

In the centre stood a moderately-

sized dining-table,

which was covered with a

table-cloth, the first

and only time that

I ever

saw such appendage used in the Harem. White

slaves, dressed

dishes

en grande

up on large

upon the

floor,

brought the

toilette,

placed them

silver trays,

then handed them to their

Highnesses the Princesses according to their

rank.

The Lady Paramount taking precedence

set the first dish

upon the

table

all

of

them

stood in attendance upon H. H. Ismael Pacha,

while I and the Grand Pacha sat upon a divan

playing at dominoes.
After the Viceroy had finished his repast, to

which he appeared to do ample

bon

vivajit,

justice,

being a

the Princesses set themselves

down

upon cushions which had been placed upon the

carpet,

and partook of

off soofras.

their dinner separately

H. H. Ismael Pacha then amused

himself by smoking cheroots

and playing

at

dominoes with whichever of his wives he took

it

into his head to select; coffees, weetmeats

sherbet being handed round, as

is

and

customary.

265

THE PRINCE'S HAIR.

H. H. the Grand Pacha and

salaamed the

Viceroy, and I retired.

few days afterwards

the

Prince

little

having complained of a violent headache,

Her

informed

Highness

that

would be

it

advisable to send for the hairdresser

to

cut

his hair.
"

Malesch

Princess,

"

Malesch

you can

easily

Madam,"
do

it

replied the

yourself."

Following her instructions

I cut the Prince's

every single atom

which was most

hair,

carefully picked

up

of

off the

ground, placed in

a large sheet of white paper with a quantity of

white pebbles, and cast from a window into the

where an Arab, standing up in a

Nile,

knocked

it

claiming each
"

it

Bismillah! Bismillah!

time,

In the name of the merciful

name

boat,

three times under the water, ex-

of the merciful

God

"
!

If

God

In the

it floats,

which

did not, owing to the stones tied up in the

paper, which

had

water, evil

prognosticated to the boy

is

also

been well saturated in

sinks (which as a matter of course

it is

It

if it

it did),

then

looked upon as a good omen.

was often quite ludicrous

to behold their

HAREM

266

LIFE.

Highnesses the Princesses,

who

could neither

r^ad nor write, the ladies of the Harem, and

slaves, as

they came shuffling into

my

small

room, and which was frequently crammed

of them, to ask

my

full

opinion of nearly every-

thing they received.

had opened any boxes of

If the Princesses

new

had had brought up

dress-pieces they

the Audience-hall, they handed

the same time appealing to

my

them

to me, at

taste to decide

whether they were quiyis, "pretty," or

" ugly/'

and

my

was

verdict

into

final.

The

bcUal,

instant

that any of the slaves received presents from

their Highnesses, they

came and showed them

to me, almost stunning

terrogatories.

as

If,

me

with the same in-

frequently happened, I

examined the dress-pieces and

damaged
last

(for

many

found them

of the boxes contained the

year s fashions), some of the pieces

and others

deficient in

been purchased in
obtained at -cheap

when
cesses,

In

quantity

having

that condition they had been

condemned them,

rates), I

the recipients returned

who bestowed
short, the

(for

soiled,

others

them

to the Prin-

upon them.

whole of the inmates of the

THE GOVERNESS AN ORACLE.

Harem

267

soon began thoroughly to appreciate

my European ways and

If they

were taken

my

lowed

ill

habits in

many respects.

they consulted me,

fol-

remedies, and did their best, poor

and neglected

ignorant, deluded,

abandon any habits which

creatures, to

explained to them

were repugnant to delicacy, especially when

them that such were not d

They all had become

I told

la

" European."

to

me

before I left

so attached

for Constantinople that, from

Highnesses the Princesses

their

very Mihtur, " sweeper,"

all

greatest kindness, attention,

down

treated

and

respect,

enabled

me

and doings without which

gain

that

insight

have been utterly impossible for

within the walls of the Harem.

to the

me with the

sayings

to

Franqa,

me

into
it

which
their

would

to remain

But perhaps,

kind reader, you will say,

"

My

How

reply
'

hast thou so profound a lore attained ?"

is,

To ask another

was ne'er ashamed

to dot

my discomfiture, I took care

occurrence in my Journal,

for

that

and then, amidst

all

down every
well did I know

HAREM

268

LIFE.

" Ideas quickly fade and often vanish quite out

Of the understanding, leaving no more footsteps

Or remaining characters of themselves, than
Shadows do flying over a field of corn f

and

adopted the precaution to abstain from

appearing to take the least notice of their singular habits, and, to me, outlandish customs.

was

careful never to

showed

all their

made them

incur their jealousy.

Highnesses the same attention,

presents of the same things, ab-

upon

stained from passing the slightest remark

anything

heard or saw

Harem,

ladies of the

unless the

slaves, or eunuchs,

unfrequently happened,

not
tion

them

not

but

asked,

my

otherwise,

which

drew

my

atten-

then,

when

any particular object

to

Princesses,

candidly gave

which they never seemed

opinion, at

offended.

Thus

gained their respect, esteem, con-

what was everything

fidence, and,

in

my

in this
I

critical position,

way

obtained

became no stranger

familiarity in

me

which

to a person

their protection

my

and

object, consequently

to them,

and the terms of

stood with them afforded

the opportunity of seeing the Odalisques as

269

THE ODAUSQUES.
no European lady has ever done or
likely to do again,

"At
As

call

Harem and

the

home."

to the

the

of

ladies

kept them at a most respectful dis-

slaves, I

them any approach

tance, not daring to allow

to freedom

no, not

even so

much

people permit our domestics.

as

we English

Neglect or want

was never tolerated

of respect
I

ever

is

what we emphatically

moment.

for a

invariably maintained the greatest reserve,

remembering the Oriental proverb which

read in Alger's " Poetry of the East

"

friend another has

and by

so

beware of thy

acted

friend's friend,"

judiciously;

for

know that the Greeks and Germans

Harem were the emissaries of parties

well did
in the

doing

had

" Do thou thy precious secrets to no other lend

Thy

who were then doing

their

utmost to surround

H. H. the Viceroy with creatures of their own.

Of course

this

was done from private

as political motives, for

lose

It

whenever did Prussians

the opportunity of

influence

as well

supplanting English

was not long before

had the opportunity

HAREM

270

H. H. the First Wife at her

of witnessing

"

moment

Just at that

orisons.

When

LIFE.

sunsets to the firmament serene

The mighty Nile reflects a gorgeous scene

Broad in the cloudless west a belt of gold
Girds the blue hemisphere

and

Prince

the

."

Her Highness's

entered

was

She

chamber.

engaged

spreading

very large handsome Persian carpet,

or,

properly speaking, rug, in the centre

more

of the

Then she knelt down, turned her face

towards Mecca, and repeated her Namaz,

room.

" prayers."

m uslin

scarf

On
;

her head she wore a long white

in her

hand she held a

and there interspersed

large gold beads, here

with several diamond

which

ones,

ones count as two, and which

like a

monk

Illah

"
!

il

she

precious

counted

telling off his rosary, exclaiming

the while,

all

string of

Allah "

Allah
"

Allah

There

is

Illah-as-la-

no deity but

God," but being a Princess she never performed

the

Souddond, the bowing of the head on

the ground.

H. H. the Grand Pacha, whose powers of

THE FIRST WIFE AT PRAYERS.

271

imitation are wonderfully acute, frequently in-

Her Highness, who, smiling good-

terrupted

humouredly
at

at him, threatened to

which the

box

his ears,

Prince only laughed, and

little

kept kneeling on the rug, bowing his head to

the floor in genuine

Moslem

style.

was with the greatest

It

difficulty that

could refrain from being guilty of a breach of

decorous propriety.

Fortunately, however, the

Namaz.

Princess did not remain long at her

After she had finished she folded up her rug,

and placing the

them

into a sarat.

scarf

and beads in

Then a

was of

clear,

The mouth-

transparent amber, and the

stem was

rosewood

put

handed her

slave

a superbly ornamented tchibouk.

piece

it,

thickly

encrusted with
It

must have

been worth from 1,000Z. to 1,500Z.

The bowl

precious stones of great value.

was

filled

piece of

with golden leaf tobacco, and a small

some

narcotic, the

name

of which I

never learnt, of a bright rose-pink colour, was

placed in

it,

which Her Highness continued to

smoke with considerable

zest.

short time previous to our departure for

HAREM

272

LIFE.

Alexandria, at the

commencement

season, one of His

Highness s daughters, who

resided with

the

widow

The Valide

of the hot

Princess, his mother,

of the gallant Ibrahim Pacha, died

and owing

her demise the whole of the

to

Viceregal family shut themselves up in their

own
this

During

private apartments for three days.

no

they received

period

visitors,

own

would not allow even

their

any of the

approach them.

slaves to

and

children nor

Their

meals were placed at the doors of their rooms,

of which they hastily partook, and then retired
into their solitude.

The divans were

covered

with

lavender-

coloured satin, fringed with a deep border of

silver lace,

the cushions of which bad black

gauze handkerchiefs, bespangled and fringed

with

silver lace,

thrown over them.

On

heads they wore black handkerchiefs.

their

Their

persons were attired in lavender satin quilted

iackets,

and white linen

When

the

dresses.

sad intelligence

of

the young

Princess's death reached their Highnesses the

Princesses, the three wives, together with the

DEATH IN THE PALACE.

273

whole of their establishments, squatted them-

down upon

selves

howling

set to

like

the

and absolutely

floor,

wild beasts.

At first I thought they had all gone demented,

H.H. the Grand Pacha, who was almost frightjened out of his senses by the uproar, in his
haste to see what was the matter, tripped up
against one of the
to his

was

This slave I subsequently learnt

staff.

also

Viceroy,
four of

female slaves belonging

little

one of the daughters of H. H. the

who

has no

whom

twelve years

less

than fourteen children,

are sons, the eldest being about

These children reside at

old.

another place,

under the care of a French

my

Prince was the only legitimate

tutor,

but

one.

The Prince

glass of water

fell

sprawling on the carpet.

was immediately brought

in

by the head-nurse, who, sprinkling some over

his face, exclaimed, "
(" in

the

name

Bismallah

Bismallah

of the most merciful

and then threw the contents

God

of the glass

")

upon

the spot where His Highness had fallen.

Singular to add,
presence in the

H.H. the

Harem had

Viceroy, whose
not,

contrary to

Turkish etiquette, been announced, entered the

VOL.

I.

HAREM

274

LIFE.

audience-hall, and, looking round at the little

Prince, burst out into a hearty laugh at the

child's

discomfiture

and

my

endeavours

to

him but seemed highly amused at the

solemn manner in which Shaytan performed

pacify

her superstitious observance.

275

DISREGARD OF ETIQUETTE.

CHAPTEK XV.
I

have

already given an instance that H.H.

Ismael Pacha

is

a prince

who

acts

upon the

spur of the moment, and does not adhere to

the rigidity of Turkish etiquette, as he very
often entered the

Harem without

giving any

notice of his approach.

One

day,

after

had returned from

my

morning walk with H.H. the Grand Pacha,

enquired of H.H. the Princess Epouse where

I

could find the

told that

Lady Paramount.

Her Highness was

Upon being

in the bath-room,

the atmosphere of which was almost suffocating,

I

proceeded thither, knocked at the door, and

entered,

but

almost as

quickly

drew back,

not until, however, I had perceived H.H. the

Viceroy seated on a divan,

pyjamas

" drawers."

T 2

dressed

in

his

HAREM

276

LIFE.

He was attended by
women for, like His

a complete

bevy of

Majesty the Sultan,

females always assist at his toilette

when he

Her Highness, the

first wife,

Harem.

visits the

and

several of his ikbals, " favourite slaves,"

acting as his valets

or boots, stockings,

and watch him

fan

many

away

the mosquitoes,

as he slumbers, for

can attend upon him.

as

were

they also put on his shoes

as he likes

no others

Of them he may have

but were he to take a

fancy to any of the slaves belonging to either

of his wives, even though
"

Her

snow

eyes were sapphires set in

Refining heaven by ever wink

;"

the Princesses could obtain a divorce, and marry

again.

For among the Ottomans, the prince

well as the peasant

to

the

laws

laid

is

amenable in

down

in

the

as

this respect

Koran,

in

which the injunction respecting a plurality of

wives runs thus

"

You may,

if

you

two, three, and even four women."

favourite's life

purchase.
the

fact,

like,

marry

And

that

would not be worth an hour s

This has lately been clearly shown by

that a princess, one of the near relatives

PLURALITY OF WIVES.

277

of His Majesty the Sultan, having suspected

nay, discovered

that

her husband had

an intrigue with one of her

fortunate creature's head cut off

Eunuch, placed

it

upon

by her Grand

a dish, covered it over

and served

with a cloth of gold,

had

had the un-

slaves,

up

it

to

him.

As

she was of royal blood, her husband was

in point of rank her slave, so that

did not wait upon

As soon
drank

off a

him

as he sat

Her Highness

at his meals.

down

at the zoofra, he

cup of sherbet, as was his custom,

which had been poisoned

and when the dish

was uncovered, he stared wildly

head, and dropped

done
affirm

to

down

Her Highness

that

dead.

Nothing was

the Princess

and

can

any Turkish woman Avould have

upon receiving the

recourse to that expedient,

same amount of provocation.

as the

at the gory

Proverb

says, " to

It is

dangerous,

play with edged

tools,"

but doubly so within the mysterious walls of

a Viceregal Harem.
Well, to

continue

my

description

Highness in his bath-room,

the

Lady Paramount and

all I

of His

saw was, that

several IJcbals were

HAREM

278

LIFE.

drying his ViceregaTs person with bath-towels.

"

His Highness smiled, exclaimed

approchez,

madame."

Pacha's hand,

But

I let

Approchez,

go the Grand

who advanced towards

parent, then curtsied,

and

his august

retired.

That same day, when H. H. the Grand Pacha

returned from the bath-room, the head-nurse,
according to

her habitual custom, took him

his .apartment

into

to

upon which occasion she

change his uniform

pockets and

rifled his

reaped a golden harvest, as the Viceroy

had

emptied several purses of small gold Egyptian

coins into his pockets, telling

was plenty of baksheesh

for

him that

him

there

to give his

governess.
I

should have taken no notice of this

cumstance, and, in

about

my

it,

fact,

had not Shaytan asked me

tin cash-box,

one, such as

is

cir-

have known nothing

to give her

which was a moderate-sized

generally used

by

ladies

when

residing on the Continent.

I

was rather astonished

at her

presumption

making such a demand. However, being

anxious to learn what had caused her to make
that request, I asked her what she wanted it
in

THE HEAD NURSE'S HARVEST.

279

Leading me into her room, she opened

for.

when

my

and, guess

"trunk,"

her sarat,

surprise,

she took out an English workbox,

the

all

compartments of which had been removed, and

I

saw that

it ay as

as full as ever it could hold

half napoleons, gold five franc

of napoleons,

pieces, Turkish, Egyptian,

reigns

in short, she

in lifting

it

and English sove-

had the greatest

out of the trunk.

or bound with thin

cord,

It

difficulty

was fastened

was very heavy, and

must have contained several hundred pounds

in short,

it

was

so full that it could contain

no

All was packed in rolls closely together.

more.

Then she showed me

several

smallest gold Egyptian coins

hundred of the

which have ever

They were about the

size of an ordinary gold pencil-case seal, and as
thin as a wafer cut into two slices.
As they
been put in circulation.

were
she

all

new,

I inquired of

her by what means

became possessed of them

and then

learned the trick she had played me.

no
her

notice,

for

perquisite

Harem,
which

I
I

baksheesh
prior

to

had

my

declined to give her

could

not

always
arrival

my

Taking

in

been
the

cash-box,

conveniently spare,

but

HAREM

280
handed her a

tin tooth-powder

dressing-case, into
loinings,

LIFE.

box out of

and salaamed me

for the gift.

me

This circumstance naturally led

quire

what became of the

their

decease

scarcely believe

and
it,)

it

is,

in paying for

to en-

hoards after

slaves'

was

that

what they term giving them

that

my

which she placed her pur-

(but

told,

can

was expended in
"a

grand funeral

and hiring a

torches

vast concourse of professional mourners, as

is

customary in Egypt, to cry most bitterly over

the body at the interment.

think that
its

way

iron

But

the bulk of their

should rather

savings

found

into the coffers of the Kislar Ayaci's

chest,

as

he

has

to

superintend

their

obsequies.

Scarcely

had

this

little

incident occurred

than the Grand Eunuch entered the apartment,

and informed me that

was

to

accompany

H. H. the Grand Pacha on board the Ibis

yacht, as H. H. the Viceroy had placed that

steamer at the disposal of the Princesses to

convey them on an excursion up the

Hurrying on

my

Grand Pacha down

Nile.

hat and cloak, I took the

to the landing-place,

where

EXCURSION OX THE NILE.

we

embarked in

all

rowed
There

the

to
I

barges,

281

and were quickly

whose steam was up.

yacht,

found their Highnesses assembled on

the deck, under the spacious awning, squatting

on the divans, smoking

and looking

cigarettes,

very picture of delight at the idea of

the

enjoying a picnic on the bosom of the far-

famed

Nile.

Soon
treat

for,

found that

was

it

on looking round,

whole of the inmates of the

ladies of the

meanest, were

Harem, and

to be a general
I

"

Abode

slaves,

of Bliss/'

even to the

Their meals were

on board.

prepared for them, just as

they had been in

if

There they smoked, sipped

their gilded cage.

and appeared to

their coffee, enjoyed their kef,

pass their time most agreeably.

have enjoyed the

frightened at the

found that the

trip myself,

manner

in

And
had

should

not been

which the captain

who spoke
whim
Grand Pacha Ibrahim, who

of the steamer, (a Turkish officer,

English very well,) gratified the singular

of

on

my

Prince, the

this

occasion,

as

on

several

have already mentioned, evinced

others

an innate

cruelty of disposition which appears to charac-

HAREM

282

descendants of the renowned

terise the
Ali.

LIFE.

Mahomet

cannot but think that he might

Still, I

have been taught to be merciful, had not bad

example been
I

set him.

remember, when

first

taking charge of

I had great difficulty to make him

mind me when checking any of his bad propensities.
One day, when Her Highness, his

him, that

mother, was sitting on the divan, and he would

me

not obey

in something, she took hold of his

hand, and then taking a diamond pin out of her

hair,

she pricked

him gently with

same time explaining

manner

in

which

to

me

was

to punish.

at her, said not a word, but

nodded

Thus the Prince himself was taught

to others,

it,

at the

that that was the

looked

my

head.

to be cruel

which may, in some degree, account

for that characteristic in him.

I

never did correct His Highness in that'

manner, but one day, when

him
to discontinue a very bad habit he had of
forcing, as it were, his fingers up his nose,
which caused
persisted

in,

it

to swell,

requested

and which would,

if

have made his nasal orgal un-

seemingly wide.

He

rose

up from the

cushion,

INFLUENCE OF A HAIR

upon which he was

seated, stood quite upright,

had been on

as if he

drill,

as to tell

floor,

do anything that he

to

him

I desired

do as

to

Knowing

purpose.

little

exclaiming,

Pacha Ibrahim, and that

him

his

"Grand Pacha,
Grand Pacha, madame !" as much
me that he was H. H. the Grand

upon the

madame

and drawing
stamped his

figure to its full height, he

foot

283

PIX.

that

was not
disliked.

I bid him,
it

to order

but to no

was necessary that

H. H. the Prince should learn to obey me,

bethought
I

me

of the Princess's instructions

walked up to him, took hold of

hand

my

hair,

him

Evvet,

madame
first

and

Princess's

lasting

mind

then

tiny

took a hair-pin

placed the points on

Prince withdrew
ing, "

so

kind reader, with the slightest in-

not,

tention of hurting

out of

his

it,

at the

it,

and the

same time exclaim-

madame ! Evvet, madame ! " " Yes,

Yes, madame " and that was the
!

last

time that

mode

ever tried H. H. the

of punishment, for

impression

it

produced

on the Grand Pachas

and yet His Highness was not angry

with me.

But

knew, as a positive

fact,

that

Shaytan, the head-nurse, used to pinch him

HAREM

284
until

and

LIFE.

His Highness shrieked again with pain

did

my

in

all

power

to prevent

her

from acting in that cruel way, and had, prior

to

my

departure, put a stop to

The young

Prince,

who had

from the windows of

the

sailors

it

altogether.

often witnessed

his apartments

some of

belonging to H. H. the Viceroy's

yacht, the Crocodile, plunge into the Nile,

whose

agility in

swimming had

afforded

and

him

much amusement, happened, as he stood on

the poop-deck, to perceive

several crocodiles

basking in the sun on the low banks which

down

shelved
captain,

and told him

who was
did

all

in

ran up to the

to order a

passing by at that

thrown into the

I

the river

to

young

moment,

slave,

to be

river.

my

power

to prevent this order

from being carried out; but as His Highness

put himself into a passion, and the Captain
assured
his

him

own
act

Two

me

that the slave could swim, to use

expression, "like a water-fowl," I let

upon
sailors

his

own

responsibility.

then laid hold of the

lad,

plunged him into the Nile, not on the

and
side,

however, on which the formidable crocodiles

A SLAVE THE0WN INTO THE

themselves

were enjoying

and

had

heartfelt satisfaction to see the slave

the boat which

was hanging

285

NILE.

the

swim

to

to the rope at the

stern.

The Prince laughed

heartily

at

the

lad's

acuteness in getting into the boat, and again

him

ordered

to be cast into the river,

which

was done, but the boat was sent adrift. The

cunning slave swam to it, jumped into it, and
was soon alongside the yacht, which had just
heaved-to in order to return off the

Harem

stairs.

gave the lad a handful of paras as bak-

sheesh,

who salaamed me and went away

to

join his companions, quite delighted with his

prize.

Poor fellow

humanity of the

had

it

not been for the

captain, he

would have been

swallowed up by the crocodiles

for

had he

been flung on their side of the stream, nothing

could possibly have saved him.
of my daily life was often
by the pastimes of H.H. the Grand
Pacha, a merry little boy, who, had he been

The sad monotony

relieved

left

alone with

me away from

all

gusting manners of the ladies of the

the dis-

Harem

HAREM

286
and
a

the

man

slaves,

might

LIFE.

have

"

been

and even a gentleman,

of,"

illustrious parent,

made

like

his

whose manners are courtly

and amiable.
I

had been interdicted from affording him

any instruction through the medium

except so far as to teach

which

the alphabet,

did by means of an illustrated primer

and a box of
interest

him

of books,

in

toys.

his

I therefore

games and

took a lively

amusements.

found that he possessed most excellent

dull

be

and heavy-looking boy

abilities,

as he appeared to

nevertheless the prominent features of his

disposition were three of the worst vices that

child

could possibly

cruelty, avarice,

He had

and greediness.

been accustomed, as soon as he

could talk

pockets

demonstrate, namely,

and

filled

toddle

about,

with paras,

H. H. the Viceroy, which, as

related,

to

have

his

"silver coins,"
I

by

have previously

were purloined by the head-nurse, who

doled out miles of them, as

under-nurses

it

were, to the

hence the manner in which she

had accumulated her

treasure.

That practice

being constantly before the Prince's eyes,

it

had

GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS.

engendered

in*

him

a distinguished

287

the vice of avarice, which

author has most accurately-

described as " begetting

more

vices than

Priam

did children, and which, like Priam, survives

them

all."

It is a passion full of

method.

full of

votary

Its

a madness

falls

down and

paradox

worships the god of this world, but will have

neither

its

pomps,

its vanities,

He

nor

its

his

me

to play at banking with him.

trouble.

we were both
carpet

had

in

seated

larly

One day
on cushions upon the

up

(for

fond of handling a pair of

and small

circular pieces,

parcels of twenty,

sovereigns, then placed

as

after

he

he was particu-

cardboard into a number of

in

and

the Audience Hall,

finished cutting

pleasures

kept constantly urging

for

scissors)

some

middling-sized

he piled them up
they had been

if

them

in

rows upon a

cushion which was opposite to him; beside them

were several empty packets.

himself

Then squatting
the Arab money-

down in imitation of
who are to be found

changers,

at almost every

corner of the streets in the Egyptian towns

and large

villages,

he began to personate the

HAKJfiM LIFE.

character of a banker,

peculiar

imitably
sent
in

more properly speak-

money-changer.

ing, the

The

or,

set,

manner

which he

in

so in-

as it were, his features to repre-

those of the stolid,

calculating "dealer

the Indian ruler so emphati-

rupees," as

cally designates a banker,

was a

fine piece of

acting.
I sat

down

facing him, as he

bis " stock in trade

me

then gave
pieces he

had

99

to his right-hand side.

Je

several packets of the cardboard

cut, at the

that I was to count

I

had removed

same time

them as English

telling

me

sovereigns.

then stood up before him and asked for

change.

As soon

as I

had done

so he looked at the

counter I had handed him, poised

tiny hand to see that
it

it

was

full

in

his

over and over again to examine whether

were cut or cracked, said not a

it

it

weight, turned

syllable,

it

placed

on the cushion beside him, and began count-

ing the paras, as he termed the change, in

English, for

he had soon acquired a know-

ledge of the numbers in

my

then handed a number of

vernacular,

and

small cardboard

THE MONEY CHANGER.

by simply placing them

counters to me,
piles
I

in

upon the cushion before him.

took them out and counted them, but I

found that he had not given

even

change,

paras

the proper

looked at him full

His countenance

face.

its rigidity

me

having deducted a few

after

for the exchange.

the

in

289

still

retained

of expressionnot a smile, not a

muscle had he moved; he looked the very

impersonification of a usurer

blance

at

that

his grandfather,

moment

his close resem-

the

to

portrait

of

which hangs in the palace at

Eas-el-Tin at Alexandria, was very striking.

There sat
usurer

who

of making

the

prototype

that Viceregal

so thoroughly understood the art

money

to yield its best value, a gift

which has descended

I

of

to his descendants.

remonstrated with him, and told him that

he had charged

me

too

much

for the exchange.

His Highness wishing to gain as much as he

could,

and having no

paras now

that he

desire to part

with the

had once fingered them,

held rather a long argument with me, for a

Turk seldom
of

change.
vol. L

talks

When

much,

as to the

he found that

scarcity

was not

HAREM

290

LIFE.

with his explanation, he demurely

satisfied

stroked his chin, as

if it

were his beard, and

me to walk away and put up with my loss.

left

The

Grand Pacha Ibrahim laughed most heartily,

and chuckled within himself to think how
cleverly he had mulcted me of a few paras.
" Now then, Madame," said His Highness, as
he rose up off his cushion, at the same time
taking due care to remove close to him that

which contained

my

and

seat,

his treasure, "

You must

act the money-changer."

According to his instructions

the

seat

placing
side.

Prince,

take

I repaired to

he had vacated, at the same time

my

cushion with the counters by

As soon as I had arranged

who had cunningly clipped

off several of the counters,

my

myself, the

the corners

probably with the

them among those that

me at first, handed me one of

intention of placing

he had given to
those pieces.

examined

His Highness that

fore

was

change

it,

it

it,

had been

deficient in

pointed out to
cut,

and

there-

weight, and refused to

except at a considerable reduction;

but he would not agree to that arrangement.

Then he put himself

into

a most towering

THE PRINCE IN A RAGE.

passion,

threw himself upon the

291

floor,

screamed

out most hideously, and brought the whole staff

of the establishment, princesses, ladies of the

Harem,

slaves

and eunuchs^ into the apart-

ment, to see what was the matter with H.H.

the Grand Pacha

very sound of his

for at the

voice the whole of the establishment

was always

on the alarm.

The head-nurse took him

up,

and began

performing her superstitious observances, by

sprinkling water on the

had

as a slave

floor,

attended her with a silver basinful, naturally

thinking that His Highness had met with some
accident.

When

the matter was explained to

Princess Epouse,

exclaimed, "

and
tired

she

H.H. the

laughed most heartily,

Malesh

Malesh !

"

and

re-

from the apartment, accompanied by the

whole retinue.

H.H. the Viceroy, Ismael Pacha, happening

!

to be in

an adjoining apartment, entered the

room a few minutes

to pacify the
self

with

little

after.

torment,

had managed

who had

set

him-

down, and was once again quietly playing

me

at the

same pastime.

u 2

was not aware

HAREM

292

LIFE.

of His Highnesses presence

but as I sat count

ing out some paras on a cushion on the

I suddenly felt the breath of
as

it

my

were,

Shaytan, J raised up
tion

Thinking that

cheek.

of boxing

my

her

flooi

some person

far

wa

it

hand, with the inten

ears,

as I thought thai

according to her custom, she had slipped

int<

the apartment unperceived, and was watching

us at play.
Suddenly, however,

saw the Grand Pachi

smile, and, turning round, I perceived

H.H. th

my

shouldei

Viceroy bending, as
I

sprung to

Highness,

my

who

feet,

it

were, over

Hi

blushed, curtseyed to

smiled,

and playfully exclaimed

Madame, as I am a poor man," an<

the marked emphasis with which the billionaire
" Pray,

of the world uttered that expression was

peculiar that I shall never forget

it,

tone of voice was that of a professional

lender,)

" allow

stock-in-trade. "

me

s<

(for th

money

to take possession of

you

Saying which, His Highnes

seated himself on the cushion I had just vacated

and began

to play with his darling son.

After having amused himself for some time

His Highness rose up, approached me,

for I

wa

293

LOVE OF WEALTH.

standing at one of the windows looking out

and thanked me

into the garden,

manner in which

cious

his refractory heir,

for the judi-

had managed to amuse

and then

the apart-

left

ment.
I

had

flattered

myself that when he rose up

from the banking

department,

the

Viceroy

left

some packets of golden paras

on the cushion.

None, however, were depo-

would have
sited there

and

for, like his

believe

the

fact,

son,

he was reported,

to be fond of accu-

mulating treasure as a means to happiness,

and,

by a common but morbid

he continued to accumulate

it

This attachment to wealth must

association,

as

an

end.

always be

a growing and progressing attachment, since

misers and usurers are not slow in discovering
that those

same ruthless years which detract

so sensibly

from their bodies and their minds

serve

only to augment and

consolidate

the

strength of their purse.

Sometimes His Highness the Prince would

order

all

his

apartment,

young

slaves to

come

into

his

when he would make them go

through the whole military exercise (many of

HAREM

294

whom

were

and

girls,

just as efficiently as

He

of infantry.

most

in a

clear

LIFE.

if

his

half-sisters

they were

gave the words of

and

too)

battalions

distinct voice,

command
and made

them go through their manoeuvres as admirably as if he had been a drill-sergeant. If

any one of them did not stand up or march
properly, he immediately ordered the eunuch

who was

upon him

in attendance

to give the

refractory private several strokes of the coicr-

bache

(a

whip made of

buffalo-hide)

and

if

the offender repeated the offence, he ordered

him

treble punishment,

which was immediately

inflicted.

Thus, while the Prince displayed a strong

passion for
ancestor,

military glory, like his renowned

Mahomet

Ali,

he

also

demonstrated

his possession of that vice, cruelty,

so often sullied the fair

which had

name, not only of the

regenerator of Egypt, but which had also tar-

nished the renown of

his, courageous grandsire,

Ibrahim Pacha; both of

more nor

At

less

whom

were neither

than most remorseless tyrants.

other times, the Prince would

retinue

sit

down on

cushions on the

make

floor,

his

which

PERSONATING THE MUFTI.

he had arranged in rows

manded them

move
rest,

their

and then he com-

to imitate the

boats on the Nile.

If

295

boatmen rowing

any one of them did not

hands and arms in unison with the

he would order them to be bastinadoed

upon the

soles of their feet.

His powers of imitation and mimicry, as

have previously

stated,

were very great, and

his favourite pastime consisted in imitating the

Mussulmans
In the

at their prayers in the mosques.

first place,

he went himself and fetched

rooms, which

a Persian rug from one of the

he placed on the carpet, close by the elder

slaves,

&c.

who were busy

cutting out their dresses,

Sometimes, however, he would have

in the centre of the

room

it

laid

then he took the

silk

coverlets off the beds out of the

and placed them on each

bed store-room,

side of the room.

Personating the Mufti, which he did to perfection,

the

he knelt down on the rug and made

little

slaves kneel

coverlets.

down by

After which he

some words, which

his

forehead

on the

began muttering

did not understand, but

which the slaves repeated

bowed

his side

all

after him.

down on

the

Then he
rug,

the

HAREM

296

LIFE.

slaves following his example.

After this he

stood with his face towards Mecca, put his two

little

hands together, bowed his head down to

the ground, and continued repeating such gestures

for

upwards of

Then he placed

imitating him.

behind his ears with his

them upwards

the

times,

fifty

fingers,

to the ceiling, in a devotional

Amen
down

"

"Allah

Amin Amin
God, God, Amen,
He then bowed his head and smoothed
!

thumbs

his

and extended

attitude, exclaiming at different times,

Allah

slaves

"

"

Turk

strok-

At other times His Highness would

a number of small pieces of wood out

collect

his chin, in imitation of the

ing his beard.

toy

closet,

in

of his

which were stored toys of the

most costly and varied

description,

for it is

almost impossible to estimate the sums which

had been expended

my

arrived

and
in

During

in this manner.

sojourn with him, upwards of 500/. worth

the

from

am

Paris

of

the latest

novelties,

sure upwards of 400Z. were already

Palace

on

my

arrival.

Yet,

most

oddly enough, those of the most simple kind,

and which

are

most commonly in use among

297

the prince's EXPENSIVE TOYS.

European boys, had not been provided
Hoops, skipping-ropes, trap bat and

and more

ball,

especially

had been omitted

fifes,

noisiest, their

name

costly mechanical inventions.

a small pistol,

rather a noisy though

the use of

to

The majority were, however, most

legion.

with

it

was

with

nastic

caps,

harmless weapon, but

prohibited, lest he should

All

amusements had been neglected.

making the

him

I presented

percussion

hurt himself, which was impossible.

in

ball, foot

rocking horse,

drums,

as

and those of the

whistles,

were

but

for him.

gymBut

slaves pretend to be carpenters,

he himself acting as foreman and taskmaster, an

office in

which, like the Egyptians of old in the

time of Pharaoh and the

proficient.

Many

bricklayer

himself,

Israelites,

he was a

a time and oft did he turn

by getting

flat

pieces of

wood, with which he made the slaves scrape

the walls, while to others he gave long sticks,
and, pretending to

mix up mortar, he placed the

pieces of paper moistened with water upon

pieces of

wood

slaves carry

it

instead of hods, and

to those

made

who were engaged

erecting his temporary palace.

flat

the
in

HAREM

298

At

other times

lie

LIFE.

would enact the pilgrims

going to Mecca. Then he made the

slaves

little

take their handkerchiefs, one of which they

bound over

their faces, concealing the

their countenances except the eyes,

ing the other open they placed

heads.

whole of

and spreadover their

it

Then, taking the thin coverlets, they

made habarahs

of them, in

which they

attired

Their handkerchiefs were

themselves.

then

converted into wallets, into which he placed

paper to represent their provisions, and card-

board counters for their money.

done, he started

them

off

down

This being

the apartment

two by two, while he himself attended one of

the

little

Princesses,

shoulders of some of
chair, the

who was

carried on the

the slaves, seated in a

substitute for a palanquin

(for,

sin-

gular to add, none are ever used in Egypt), and

then the procession moved up and

down

the

apartment, while several of the other slaves

kept beating their drums in the most discordant manner.

Sometimes

would imitate the Hammals,

making the

His

Highness

"porters,"

slaves carry the cushions

by

of the

divans on their shoulders, he himself walking

THE VICEREGAL DOCTOR.

in front of them, holding a long

299

and rather

thick stick in his hand, at the same time hallooing

hout

Hum! Hum!

out,

"God

iyqrn,

Allah!

Allah!

be thanked for this

daily-

burthen,"

which

to repeat

under penalty of receiving several

knocks with his

Occasionally he would

stick.

also personate the

doctor,"

the slaves were obliged

all

Hekim

Bachi, "Viceregal

and then he made one of the

slaves run before him, shouting forth,

little

Allah!

"God! Gocl
Move away " when the slaves,
Move away
both young and grown-up, many of whom
Allah!

Dustoor

Dustoor

mingled in
with their

dresses, or

with anything that they

might be making up

for themselves,

made him laugh most heartily.

Then he walked up and down
accompanied by a

little

hands of the female

slaves,

slave,

fingers or

orders to his

wouDded

little

legs.

assistant

which

the room,

looked at the

some of

obliged to pretend that they were

bad

heads

his pastimes, covered their

whom
ill,

were

and had

Then he gave
to bind up the

part affected, and administered bread pills to

them

for medicine,

but to those

who were

his

HAREM

300
Ickbals,

"favourites,"

immense baskets

rilled

LIFE.

he gave bon-bons, as
with them are monthly

imported from Paris by one of His Highnesses

partners there for exclusive distribution in the

Harems.

I repeat

Harems, because His High-

ness the Viceroy has several others

up the Nile

both in Lower and Upper Egypt, besides that

in

which

I resided

with the Prince.

301

BON-BONS.

CHAPTER
While
in

which

may

as well

Highness enacted the physician,

staff

"When

I fell

traordinary to visit

me

men, chiefly

of medical
ill

ness Ismael Pacha sent his

to

mention that His Highness the

Viceroy has a
Italians.

upon the admirable manner

dilating
his

XVI.

me but
;

at Cairo,

own
it

His High-

physician ex-

appeared evident

that from his treatment of myself, they

do not understand the constitutions of English-

women.
into the

They

are

seldom or never called

Harems, except to attend upon the

Prince.

The mothers

of the

practice of midwifery

Harem
;

are skilled in the

they are generally

old,

ugly women, who bend the knee to that sovereign

ruler of Egypt, Prince Baksheesh,

and

are ever

ready to commit any crime or forward any

HAREM

302

LIFE.

Egyptian history ever

intrigue, as the annals of

since the rule of

have

all

Mehemet

They

Ali testify.

kinds of narcotics at their command,

are well versed in the. use

and abuse of the

deadliest of vegetable poisons

making up

are skilled in

sometimes administered

philtres,

as draughts or powders,

and which they

affirm

have the power to produce love or hatred.

One

of their principal charms

Haschisch, which has been

the most

When

is

Haschachir,

known

have

to

extraordinary effects on the brain.

taken

it

causes violent palpitations, fol-

lowed by excruciating pangs and qualms, which

produce an hallucination of the

makes the mind fancy

all

that

senses

kinds of improbable

things.

If taken at night, even if the darkness be

ever so intense,

it

often causes the patients

who

are under its influence to fancy that they see a

most

brilliant

sunset.

silent as the grave,

heard;

If the

chamber

is

as

most singular noises are

sometimes the ringing of

bells,

the

Moslem's abomination, although none are used

in the East

except in the dwellings of the

Europeans, and in their places of worship

the

303

NARCOTICS.
striking of clocks

at other times the chanting

by
what is

in the distance of beautiful sacred music

sweet and melodious voices.

And

most

who

curious, the individual

pernicious

influence

is

perfectly

yet,
is

under

aware

its

that

those distortions of the imagination are but the

effects of

as

it

the Haschisch, which gives the mind,

Even the

were, a double existence.

and smell seem

imbibe,

as

it

impregnate

affected

by

for the nostrils

it,

were, perfumes which

the

atmosphere,

taste

do not

and the palate

flavours that exist not.

Should the individual be taking a promenade,

when under

its influence,

fare

through which he

no

outlet,

shapes

passing seems to have

and every object around appears

and

double,

is

the thorough-

to

assume

and forms.

the

most grotesque

At times

his

memory

becomes impaired, and he sinks into a deep

lethargy,

during
all

which feeling

my

experienced myself

illness at Constantinople.

idea of time; a minute seems to

hour.

He

is

He

loses

him an

consumed with a burning

thirst,

which nothing seems to assuage.

In order to experience these

effects, or

many

HAREM

304

LIFE.

other most singular delusions,

only neces-

it is

sary to take half a teaspoonful of

cup of pure Mocha

and the potion

afterwards,

drink a

it,

partake of a meal

coffee,

will

soon

begin

to operate.

The Haschachir,
the Sepoys in India,

like the
is

hemp

the leaf of a kind of

Hindi,

Bang drunk by

said to be distilled from

Konnab

called

"Fakirs Weed/' or "Fakir's

hence the derivation of

the

Keff,"

Turkish word

Keff, or Kef.

These harridans attribute great efficacy to

the

marrow

of the ostrich, or

dried hippopotamus,

when

it is

portions of a

powdered and

taken by their patients in that manner.

their forte lies in procuring abortion.

But
Euro-

pean physicians are not unfrequently conducted

into the Harems, but the greatest precautions

are

taken to prevent them from seeing the

faces of their patients, as the

except the eyes,

whenever

they

is

whole of the

face,

covered with a habarah

enter

the

palace,

and

the

eunuchs cry out with most stentorian lungs,

Allah! Allah! Dustoor

God

Away

Away

"

Dustoor!

when

all

the

"God!

women

305

THE DOCTORS.

run into their rooms in the twinkling of an

It really is

eye.

most amusing to

gular manner in which they

Hekim Bach i

see the sin-

managed

" Viceregal doctor,"

to let the

examine the

diseased part.

Once an operation had

to be

performed on

and then the face was most carefully

a slave,

concealed.

At another time the tongue had

to

be examined, and that was thrust out of the

mouth, the

lips

happened that a slave was

it

death,

and

it

One day

being covered over.

was necessary

at the point of

to see her face,

which was managed by a thin coloured gauze

being thrown over

it.

know an

instance of

an Italian doctor being called upon to attend

a

young married Turkish woman, who did not

seem

have much the matter with

to

"Hekim
" I

want
The

to

her.

effendi" (Doctor), said she to him,

know what

peculiar

interrogatory,

manner
gave

what she wanted.

ails

in

the

me."

which she made that

doctor

He assumed

the

key

to

a very serious

countenance, and after a few moments' deliberation, exclaimed,

vol.

i.

"Hanem''
x

(Lady), said he,

HAKEM

306

LIFE.

you do not appear to be very unwell but there

;

is

"

one thing

"What

that?" inquired the lady, hur-

is

riedly.
"

Hanem, you

are as ladies wish to be

who

love their lords."

"

Peh-ein

(Very

well

who was

lady's mother,

"

been the case

tell us, I

Pray

was

usual,

But how long has that

at the consultation.
?

young

said the

!)

present, as

beg of you."

After a few moments' pause, and by the aid

of some indications which had been revealed

Hanem

to him, the doctor told her that the

He

had been enceinte about four months.

then thought that his visit was ended

mother pressed the Hekim to

the child would be a

Any

other

boy

medical

or a

man

tell

but the

them whether

girl.

but that Italian

physician would have burst out into a

laughter

but

he,

fit

of

without moving a muscle,

looked intently at the

his beard several times,

Hanem,

stroked

down

and then replied

in a

firm tone of voice,

"

Inch Allah

"

(By the blessing of God

!)

THE ITALIAN DOCTOR.

the child will be a boy,

307

and the very picture of

his father."
"

God

grant you a long

life,

women

exclaimed both the

Hekim

effemli"

and the doctor

and

the apartment loaded with blessings

left

a purse full of Turkish sovereigns.

One

of His

was playing
great

skill.

amusement

Highness's favourite

at dominoes,

pastimes

which he did with

When

he became wearied of that

cards

were

introduced,

and

played numerous Turkish games with his

At

playmates.

other times he would have a

Then he ordered the

fantasia enacted.
to pile

up

he

little

several cushions,

slaves

which he called a

Mumud,

"throne," on which he seated himself

with the

little

Princesses, his legitimate sisters,

arranged on each

The young

side.

slaves sat

about him in the form of a semi-circle, and a

slave

named

Kosetta

commenced sinking

in a

very pretty manner the following verses in

Turkish

" The complexion of

looking jasmine

moon
lily

my love

her face

is

is

like the freshness of the velvet-

as resplendant as the bright, bright

her lips were as rosy as the choicest Burgundy, and her

white bosom the fairest and softest-looking that an amorous

youth ever beheld.

x 2

HAREM

308
"

Oh

beauteous creature, the perfume of whose breath

the grateful odour of the

thy ruby

sumes

LIFE.

lips,

my

and pour

musk

rose, allow

me

like

is

to sip sweets

from

forth into thy ear the passion that con-

heart."

All the slaves joined in the chorus, and sang

the last verse.

Their Highnesses, the Princesses,

then H.H. the Grand Pacha, quite

encored;

elated at his success as director of the fantasia,

ordered another slave,

named Damietta,

proach the musnud, and the

strain
"

in

forth,

plaintive

poured

little girl

voice,

the

to ap-

following

My mistress

wears a beautiful gold embroidered dress

wide trousers are of azure blue

silk

her waistband

is

cashmere shawl, worth two hundred Egyptian sovereigns.

the richness of her attire
of her face
" There

is

her

a costly

All

nothing in comparison to the beauty

is

nothing either in heaven or earth half so lovely as

her beautiful sparkling orbs."

At other times he would give orders for a

Then two slaves were ordered to
banquet.
fetch all the soofras they could find,

they placed
apartment.

them

down

the whole

length

which
of the

Then His Highness commanded

to ask the

eunuchs to give them a number

of the prettiest bonbon cases, filled with those

THE PRINCE'S IKBAL.

309

condiments, which they brought up into the

room.

Emptying

their contents into one of the

the Prince mixed

silk coverlets,

them

gether, replaced

in

them

all to-

some of the handsomest

baskets at hand, and ordered the slaves to

them round

to the Princesses, the wives,

his little sisters

for he

had

one,

hand

and to

also to his ikbal, " favourite,"

young

as he was.

She was a slave who had been purchased

Constantinople, and
to be educated

was placed

at

Harem
Had that

in the

with His Highness.

plan been followed out some good results might

have been produced

adopted by

many

but,

most others

like

of the Viceregal family,

it

was abandoned. The only

distinction

made between

and the young Prin-

cesses

this child

was that she was obliged

which was

to

her

eat

meals with an iron spoon.

Upon

this occasion,

imitating the example set

him by

his Viceregal

parent, he took

that day,

it

into his head to honour her

and therefore ordered the slaves

hand every basket

to her hist, after they

Highnesses

to

had

served

their

wives.

She was distinguished from the other

slaves

by wearing a

fez

the

Princesses,

the

which was not on

HAREM

310

LIFE.

account of the position she would probably be

called

upon

from the

to take, but simply

fact

that the cleanliness of her hair had been so

much

neglected, that she

greater portion of

it,

had not only

lost the

but that the vermin had

eaten sores into her skull

After this sherbet was served.

The entertainment, however, did not pass

off

without one of H.H. the Prince's favourite

slaves having purloined a basket of bonbons.

H. H. the Princess Epouse, upon being informed

of

it,

ordered the girl to be punished

H.H. the Grand Pacha put himself

paroxysm of

and foamed

rage, that he lay

but

into such a

upon the

floor

at the mouth, exclaiming at inter-

vals that she should not be punished, except

by himself; and nothing would satisfy him

until his mother had countermanded the order.
When that was done, he took up a small cane
which was

close at hand, laid it lightly across

her shoulders, and thus ended the

It afforded

me

that His Highness

feasts,

affair.

considerable pain to observe

always evinced, at these

the utmost greediness,

by

for himself the largest basket of

setting apart

bonbons

and

GAME OF FOOTBALL.
any of the slaves (and

if

were in the habit of doing

exchanging their
he

his,

own

311

them
teased him by
of

several

so),

baskets, cakes, &c. for

would break up the entertainment

instanter,

have

the soofras,

all

removed

&c.

immediately, send the slaves away, and dismiss

the company.

One

day,

when

to take his usual

I

it

was too hot

for the Prince

morning walk in the garden,

was playing with him

at football, the ball

being a middle-sized India one, enclosed in net-

work

the hangings of the doors being looped

back to admit of a free circulation of

Highness happened to kick

force than usual,

and

it

it

His

air.

with rather more

bounded into the

rolled into a room, the door of

corridor,

which

had

never seen open before, and disappeared.

The Prince followed

him

in pursuit

but hearing

halloo out, I hastened to his assistance,

and, entering the unexplored chamber, I found

that the tails of his

little

coat

had been caught

in the leg of a Broadwood's grand piano.

instantly liberated the

little

captive,

soon as he had snatched up the

it

into

my

hands, which

who, as

ball,

threw

were extended to

HAREM

312
catch

it,

aid proceeded

curious) to

LIFE.

he was exceedingly

(as

examine every nook and corner of

that room, which was to

him an undiscovered

region.

Hand-in -hand, we proceeded

to take

an

in-

ventory of the miscellaneous articles which were

huddled up together in that

Modern Curiosity Shop."

than compare

it

to the

"
I

Old Antique and

cannot do better

show-room of an ex-

tensive furniture-warehouse, with half-a-dozen

parlours, of

W ardour-street vertu dealers.

There we found beautifully-executed

length portraits of

Her Majesty the Queen, the

late Prince Consort,

Eugenie, and
of Europe
of

rolls

full-

many

Napoleon

III.,

the Empress

other of the crowned heads

elegant gilt time-pieces, large bulky

handsome

carpet, marqueterie tables,

spring easy-chairs, sofas, ornaments for mantelpieces of the

most costly description

with birds which, as

wound some

of

clocks,

them

up,

began singing, instead of striking the hours.

Some had

swimming round and round

the

which stood in the centre of imitation

dials,

lakes

fish

all

of

them were most

artistically inlaid,

313

CURIOSITIES.

There was one far

with large figures on the tops.

more beautiful than the others which attracted

my

attention,

drawn by swans

a shell
piece

which had the

of workmanship.

drawn by wild horses

figure of

Yenus

in

was a magnificent

it

Others had chariots

one

with Mazeppa and

There were stood up against

the wild horses.

the walls suits of old armour, beautifully inlaid.

On

lines

hung

quantities of old clothes, con-

sisting of suits of

to

Mahomet

Ali,

uniforms which had belonged

Ibrahim Pacha, Ismael Pacha,

the Viceroy's uncle, and other defunct Egyptian

princes.

rups

Saddles, bridles, silver bits,

immense

manufacture

mirrors,

china

lustres,

vices

of old

gilt

children's toys in abundance, of the

expensive kind,

movements

all

stir-

evidently of English

superb large glass

Sevres

and

fire-irons,

with

fitted

ser-

richly

most

mechanical

musical instruments, and a host

of miscellaneous articles that

it

would take a

catalogue of twenty pages to enumerate.

It

was a very large apartment

Harem) and happened

as H.

to be

(not in the

open on that day,

H. the Viceroy's Tchiboukdji was stand-

HAREM

314

LIFE.

ing there, while several slaves were dusting

I

then determined to ask H. H. the Viceroy,

when an opportunity

me

allow

offered, to

have the furniture which was in

I

it.

it (for

to

therein

had found everything that even a European

lady of rank could desire to

comfortable)

placed

rooms above

the

in

which would have enabled

make her rooms

me

to keep

it,

H. H.

the Prince apart from the host of slaves, whose

disgusting

ways tended

to counteract

my

best

endeavours to bring him up in European habits

and manners.
But, most unfortunately, our sudden departure for Alexandria prevented

me from carrying

out that beau projet, as also did

illness at Constantinople,

repair to Europe.

my subsequent

which obliged me

to

never again returned to

the Harem, for which I was not sorry, believe

me, kind reader.

" Better where awful mountains rise

With

raging tigers dwell,

Then share the

halls of Paradise

With women who

On my

merit hell."

return to the Prince's reception-hall,

THE YOUNG EUNUCHS.

into

315

which His Highness had hastened some

found

one of the

time before me,

eunuchs

were then eight of them in

(for there

little

the Harem, whose ages averaged from four to

who were

ten years)
stantinople

to

presents

as

accompany us
His

to

to

Con-

Majesty the

Sultan, crying most bitterly.

Upon making

inquiries, I

found that he had

been dreadfully frightened by the Prince with

a

snow-white lamb, a

mechanism,

and had run

his private parts.

rated the

toy,

little

who

his

horns

The blow had

by

bleated

against

so exaspe-

eunuch, that he rushed on the

Grand Pacha, who, doubling up

his

fist

had struck him in the same part

T Anglais,

near the abdomen, and sent him sprawling on

the

The head nurse had rushed

floor.

in,

and

performed her incantations, and the mother of

that

little

" spectre of

that offspring

whom

a man," was tending

she had sold

for filthy

gold, like a farmer sells his sheep.

When

had complained

to

Mr. B. and the

Messrs. H. of the scanty accommodation of one

tiny

little

room, not more than twelve feet long

HAREM

316

LIFE,

by twelve feet broad, and about fourteen high,

I was met with the reply that His Highness
had no other accommodation to give me. Now
I

had found out the contrary, and learned that

not the

slightest

had been made by

efforts

H. H. the Viceroy's partners

my

But

comfort.

daughters,

to contribute to

was one

whom

of

all

handmaids and
sold,

as I

slaves,

of

mother Eve's

they looked upon as

born to be bought and

me

anything was good enough for

had found a whole

for I

rooms un-

suite of noble

occupied, and plenty of useful elegant European

furniture to adorn

and

befit

them

for the occu-

pation of His Highness and his Governess, close

my own

by

chamber.

Perhaps had
a

denizen

of the

heim, on the

been a Frankfort lady, or

lovely

village

of

Oppen-

banks of the beautiful Ehine,

my

comforts would have been better

for,

and

much more
"a

should have
endurable

dog," of an

cared

found

my

but

was Kopek,

position

Englishwoman, a Howadjee,

an unbeliever, a Pariah,

whom

and Jews despised and spat

at,

both Moslems

and

therefore,

THE GOVERNESS'S RESOLUTION.

as I

was

battle," I

my own dear
must fight my own
it, my motto being,

told before I quitted

bright land of liberty, " I

determined to do

" coute-qui-coute:'

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