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'
.'-"
i I
THE TIDES:
THE FUNDAMENTAL THEOREMS DEMONSTRATED
WITHOUT MATHEMATICS,
AND THE
BY
T.
K.
ABBOTT,
B.D.,
w/
i^7T7*
LONDON:
LONGMANS, GREEN, &
CO.,
1888.
PATERNOSTER-ROW.
DTJBLIN
PREFACE.
THE
1872, and
Other
retarded by friction.
is
No
apology then
is
needed for
The
is
PREFACE.
IV
For the
latter
benefit of readers
to
see the
of
Sir
George Airy's
investi-
THE
tide-producing force
attraction of the
earth,
which
is
moon
is
(or sun)
the same as
TIDES.
if
it
were
all
concentrated at
x, z.
The
tial,
and towards
the
line
and moon.
First, the vertical
And
it is
any
indirect effect.
tangent
tion of
its
tangential component,
i. e.
is
in the direc-
towards C.
At a
THE
*J
TIDES.
its
i.e.
tangential component,
The tide-producing
is
acts towards
it
From
this
A.
EM
we can deduce
which
will
we need only
At
it is
water limited to
present
observe that
an equatorial canal.
equator,
i.
we
no
If there were
friction it
theorems
in the
:
low
water.
in. In addition to the oscillatory motion of the water
there
is
by the
action of
the moon.
iv.
The
effect of
friction
on
this
is
to increase the
Without friction
it
moon
in quadratures.
I suppose the
to be fixed,
in the direction
Now,
the ocean
is
viz.
from
to
D, and
B to C
so on.
The
amount of
being the same for every
variation in the
This being
so, it is
faster
moving
on by an
accelerating force,
will be a
maximum when
Fig
i.
is
or
through one
therefore at
and
advance of
or, in
flowing in
faster than it flows out.
Where this process has gone on
for the maximum time the tide will be highest.
On the
it
is
Where
is
this
lowest.
THE
TIDES.
moving
faster
and
s is
thus flowing out faster than it flows in, the tide is falling.
This is the case through the whole quadrant BC.
At C the force changes and becomes a retarding force.
flows out,
tide is rising
through
at
DA
and
and
this holds
through
them
the tide
is
falling all
Hence it is highest
rising through AB.
and C. Where will the tide be
D, lowest at
between r and
s is
is
and
falling fastest ?
to
is
greatest
maximum,
viz.
at
(fig.
2),
45
from C.
Similarly
is
greatest, viz. at g,
it
CD
45 from C.
On
that
is
its
absolute
is
and
is
there lowest
there highest.
westward from
and slowest
at
and D, and
mean
mean
places
places,
At A, B,
e.
at
h,
<?,/, g,
This
motion.
B
Fig. 2.
the out-
The
path of
where the
when
its
letter
mean
place
is
at
in
fig.
2.
BD
AC
Fig.
II.
3.
The theorem
is to
accelerate
THE
diminishes.
It
is
TIDES.
Approach-
ing D, the ocean is moving slower than the earth therefore here friction tends to accelerate it, while the
retarding
;
is
The two forces, then, must be
decreasing to zero.
equal at same point o, after which the velocity again
increases.
It is high water therefore at o.
force
It
it
tion of equilibrium.*
It is a priori an admissible suggestion that the ocean is
in a state of equilibrium under the moon's action, i. e. that
it is
ment
of the
i.e.
at the equator
same
* It
direction,
is
the tide
and
its
effect
would be
to
make
the east-
is
ocean
fact it
rate
is
if
It
forces preponderate
so that although the ocean
should be supposed at rest at first, it would ultimately be
dragged round by the earth. The actual form of the
;
which the equatorial ocean is interrupted by continents, would render this equilibrium of the
earth, moreover, in
ocean impossible.
There
III.
is
ellipse
First, the
now taken
water in the
the form of an
and, in
CD.
lows that
it is
Now,
it
is
accelerating;
CD, than
is
in
retarding
therefore the
retarding
westward motion.
Secondly, the water having reached its mean place at n,
it with its
greatest eastward velocity, it is, when
and passed
it
g.
reaches C, eastward of
On
the whole
begins to
if
way
its
mean
i.
place,
e. it is
before reaching g
but
its
is
nearer to
nearer to
but on passing y
eastward excursion
move westward
it
THE
TIDES.
than
But
is
if friction
CD, which
its
mean
by
friction.
force
is
accelerating.
Therefore
is
is
slower has
the quadrant
DE
CD
BC, and
and similarly
AB
But .5(7,
are the accelerating quadrants, and CD,
the retarding quadrants.
Therefore the water is exposed
for a longer time to the
retarding than to the accelerating
Force.
We
may
pos-
amount
On
of this effect.
Fig. 4.
ME
moon
at the centre E,
ing force in
jcn
magnitude and
direction.
whole disturb-
The proof
is
as
follows:
Let
it
Hence,
<o
ME
if
=
.
t)U
OU
is
may
th,
be regarded as geometrical
Mn
as the
moon's force at
force at x
Mn
same
ME\
therefore, if
MX
i,
e.
re-
10
THE
TIDES.
direction
On this scale
represent the force at the centre by ME.
is in the nearer
too
and
in the more
small,
hemisphere
remote too large, in the proportion of Mn to ME. This
xn
error
it
is
at
ths =
most
OU
^th.
^(j
nli.
turbing force
The moon's
moon's mass
attraction
earth's
Ma*
f ore
by
--
>
ME]
moon
force
or nearl J =
= -"
at
mass
of
gravity
87
(^
(represented in
there fig.
producing force
of Ik being r),
is
i.e.
represented
by
-.
(This
40
nearly.
87
60 2
Neglecting the
- r
(the greatest value
by &
we
The
is
12,528,000
400,000'
effect of pressure,
fig, 5).
effect of this
:
ITT
(this
11
HEIGHT OF TIDE.
The number
of seconds in a lunar
22320
400000
This
x^
is
in
of
this
time
is
28
one-fourth
is
greatest eastward
therefore the greatest
also
56'
moon).
The
last is
Hence
of sea
= depth
01
83216
56
1486
For a sea of three miles in depth this would give 2*268
inches.
depth of sea
..
12
THE
The following
and height
Bound
at
BcO
angle at
and
fig. 4,
is
any place
the
OB
radius
is
TIDES.
right,
describe
obvious that
it is
Since the
circle.
Be
is
equal to xl in
changed while
it
also be proportional to cp
time
that
or
double
its
cf,
and
to the
to
Calling
the moon's greatest tide-producing force, r the earth's
:
and
radius,
2ir
is,
r the
angular velocity =
'
the retardation =
= the angle at
Mcf
-
aOa
2r
and this
being in the same circle
=
angle multiplied by cf the small perpendicular cd, or pp
which is parallel and equal to it. Therefore the whole
/,
n n
all
the
T,
'
abscissee
pp
A
that
B is proportional
is,
*
to
n
Bp
'
.
T.
It is
to the
sum
of
Vp' 89280
T
ZTT
This represents the defect from the greatest eastward veloand after passing its mean value at the middle point
city
;
earth
is
We
above
represented
shall
by ps.
now show
'
CONSTRUCTION
FOE,
13
time
is
and
to the
--
/diff. of vel. x
velocities
whole depth
-=
-j
\
depth
-
length or section. /
small compared with
tide)
and
is
And
is
since
from
sB
is
proportional to the
and therefore
to
cos 2w.
The
small.
effect of pressure
As
it
it
away from
of
its
moon's
high water.
It
is
moon
desirable to consider
also
what
by supposing the
water
earth to be uniformly covered with
and, secondly,
by taking into account the moon's declination.
first,
THE TIDES.
14
if
we
we
have to employ
shall
moment
is
greatest at the
its direction.
2. Secondly, the velocity (diminishing under the counteraction of the force) continues to be in the same direction
until this counter force has
undone
all
the
work accom-
If the
plished in that direction by the previous force.
circumstances are alike in both directions, this will be
when the
This
is
precisely
common pendulum.
3. Thirdly,
when
The
rate of rise
is
greatest
4. Fourthly,
as in
2,
when
5.
its
work.
we
are
At
now
this
moment
considering,
15
ration
The
force.
alternate excess
and defect
if it
were an independent
force.*
First, then, the
moon being
still
supposed to be in the
The
follows
By
actual
amount
These
may
be regarded as
may
be found as
(ME
being moon's
of these forces
(fig. 4)
IT
A
sin
is
2AM.
by
represented
AM cos AM sin
is
6.
that
is
which
positive from 45
to 45
(i.e.
while the
moon
passes
THE
16
TIDES.
spherical triangle
(fig. 6)
and
cos
AM =
cos
H cos
MB cos AB
(latitude).
parallel to equator
lat. sin
2 (hour angle)
proportion
this force
hence the
is, if
be the same.
the water
moved
If
in canals
M-
Fig. 6.
the moon.
But
these ellipses
is
of a different
Its value is
Q
~ r sin
2AM cos
0.
tii
But
and
AM cos
AB cos MB,
cos A M = cos MB sin AB (as above).
sin
= sin
17
H sin 2
H- 2
lat. cos
sin
lat.
(hour angle)
H sin 2
lat. cos
2 (hour angle.)
This
the force.
the
moon
of this
is less
is
is
the
first
than 45
lat.
45
an elevating force,
are further from the equator
this is
In the remaining
Hence, by 5 and 4,
lat.
45)
will be
greatest
(i.e. it
Beyond
lat.
effect of the
acted.
It
is
would be
lessened, the
The actual
place of high water would be as before.
nitude of the tide may be ascertained as follows
mag-
TT
The
fig. 5,
force being
we
write this
TT
sin
2A sin 2(45 c
/}.
THE
18
Then, as in
TIDES.
fig. 5,
TT
=
velocity
sin 2 A cos
2(45-
m}.
amount
and leaving
by the
it is
difference of velocity,
increase
is
and
when
the velocity
is
diminishing,
vice versa}.
But a being
small,
sin 2(A
a)
sin
2A = 2a
7)
/. decrease of
....
and
height =
cos
2A
TT
^
2rar
-
JTcos2A
-
4r2
cos 2m.
= cos 2A
This
is
torial canal
19
With
to the equator.
tions
a,
Fig.
such a place,
it is
and
7.
C 2
abc,
THE
20
tide is lowest at n
at
and
o.
and not
TIDES.
so
low at
/,
and
it is
high water
tide in addition
becoming of more
importance as we recede from the equator until the colatitude = moon's co-declination, when the semi-diurnal
tide disappears.
component
is
c,
and
The depressing
region.
being greatest at a
and
at
tide, as in
former
and there
will be a diurnal
Combining
this
with the
moon's declination, the moon's least nadir distance (= IN] would be greater
than 45, and the force depressing.
21
It is not
of the state of things at intermediate places.
difficult to see that, as long as the moon's declination is
ridional
prolate spheroid.
The place of high water at any latitude, as far as
this is due to the meridional component, would be easily
found
effect
of
the meridional
would be alone
an
If the
;
moon were
at the
solar tide.
was remarked, on
slightly greater on the
It
remoter
side.
The
moon than on
the
produce
THE
ON THE EFFECT
TIDES.
LENGTH OF
THE DAY.
I.
Historical.
What
tending to Retard the Rotation of the Earth ?
the result of the competition was I do not know but the
exist
we have
to
It
"unwind" 2500
and a
difference
of
amounting
a second between the first and last
in
the
rotations,
to
an eightieth
of these
M. Delaunay
would
effect.*
moment
see Ball,
"Elements
of
Astronomy,"
of
He
p. 377.
2-'i
it
would
same quadrants
east of the
is
moon and
retarding.
Sir Greorge
errors,
In
my own Essay
tempt
to estimate
it
quantitatively.
am
problem and
to do so with any
this
It will be convenient first to prove the following proposition respecting the effect of obstacles
II.
is
24
THE
TIDES.
obstacle,
An
it.
The
influence
is felt.
not sufficient to
obstacle
of
much
smaller,
If the
in consequence of the continuity of the surface.
obstacle be such as to destroy half the velocity of the water,
after quadratures.
In both
is
tidal
moon
in the equator.
Effect of the
III.
This
is
the
by Delaunay
way
in
to be produced,
Now,
let
Let
force.
greatest
The statement
"
friction collar,"
which
seems to put the matter in a nutshell, obviously assumes that the passage of
But this is true only so
the tidal wave is the passage of a mass of water.
far as there
evident.
is
which
is
25
Then
we have
for the
section
latter,
moment
the earth
we have
is
of
TT)
A
.
acceleration -=-r-.
or
Now
If
'
32
depth of sea
13 millions
84,000
we assume
f
,,...
203
.'-.-.
billions x r
Now,
about 1530
Ience '
68
/=
earth's velocity
is
is
'
104,040
86,400
~
,y fi
AA
7o,oOO
Now,
friction
/ seconds
is
Hence we
26
THE
TIDES.
conclude
insignificant,
would
But
there
is
this
another
IV.
Of the
to the
The
dm
effect
\He produces an
accumulating westward tendency in the water. This once
impressed will continue to increase until checked by friction, that
force.
may
until friction
becomes equal to
this constant
when we
affected
tion
is,
Therefore
by
made
friction
the coefficient/ that is to say, on the assumpabove, that the elevation is not affected and
;
be assumed.
Moreover,
may
although friction alone could not accelerate high water so
much as three hours (= 45) our conclusion will hold if the
,
27
V.
to the
By
original value (x + X, for %), Airy finds that the expression contains a constant term dependent on the distance
of high water from quadrature.
The source of this constant term may be understood from the following observation
The
mean
place at the
moment
of
latter
behind, or
W.
its
it
On
ing force
is
throughout, w being increased when over 45, and diminished when less than 45. In the following quadrant,
i. e. after
passing the moon, the opposite change takes
since
place,
it
is
is
The same
it
W.
of their place.
which it
is
retarding.
28
THE
TIDES.
deep would be about 126 feet. Assume that this is undiminished and assume, as before, that it is high water
45 W. of quadratures. Then we may assume the dis;
be 126 cos
to
due to
2H cos
2w
cos
r
Putting for
effect
this displacement
The
2ai
its
2w per
H 126
r
value
second.
we
have
126
10
TT
45
or
>
^
75
100
^r-
millions'
nearly.
we have
Introducing
one day
200
_^_^___________
75 millions
mass of canal
mass
Hence the
375,000
3300
^-^
ociOO x r
AMOUNT OF RETAEDATION.
29
-.
stated,
it
is
unnecessary to
multiply this
There
is
Owing
to
water
behind
and
its
252
-j-
We
Reckoning
mum
this as
50
into
account
of the lunar,
the
we have
solar
as the
tide.
maxi-
effect to
is
case of the
result
moon
would be
The
nett
THE
30
VI.
TIDES.
results to the
On
First.
the earth as
proper on the
it
actually
tides is trifling
is
moment on
its full
if
acting towards the obstacle, exerts
the earth, but only for a fraction of a
day.
The
we have
Secondly.
pends, as
in
what I have
seen,
i.e.
less
If this condition
be accelerating.
N. and
then
S. (as
if it is
less
than six
mentioned
In other
Now, owing
nil.
on observation we
sults
find,
re-
31
both sides
it is
at quadratures
farther
still it is
30 after
quadratures.
The
on
effect
India,
,,
Australia,
,,
Africa,
,,
S.
,,
West
.....
...
coast of
None.
.....
....
.
America,
,,
,,
Australia,
Eetarding.
....
....
N. America,
S. America (Peru),
N. America
,,
,,
None.
Accelerating.
(California, &c.),
,,
,,
is
any
fall
it is
difficulty (per-
all.
whether
At
all
It is to be
show the
preponderance of retardation at
events, however,
must
sufficient to
to impossibility) of determining
maximum.
own
own
inertia,
and hence
32
THE
TIDES.
But
not
so,
and
this
would
still
it
is
dation.
On
the whole,
as to the
the tides
APPENDIX,
SIR
THE
uniform depth.
is
verti-
cal.
the
ff
AJ
Then
known from the ordinary theory of perturr
r
bation that the horizontal force produced by the moon on
particles in the place x and its neighbourhood may be repreit is
sented by
3C\
/*?/
sin 2
The measure y
).
rJ
\r
the time, and therefore the
+ -Tsin
/ a
because
when
sin 2
(it
OT\
is
proportional to
is positive,
\r
rj
the water in the direction in which x
move
second force
mean
*
abscissa for
is
is
measured.
any particle
is x,
but that
true disturbed
p. 221.
34
APPENDIX.
abscissa at
any moment
x +
is
(X depending
on, or being a
//
function
of,
x and
t}.
Then the
Y~
is
(tt
and the
it
be
may
dX
represented by
-/f -57-.
(it
on the form
A.
water.
mean
points
kSx.
of
state
of the
water be
of the
surface of the
Then, in the
k.
the water,
x + 8x
X+
changed to x + Bx +
is
is
now
8x1
dOO
The
Sx.
distance
be-
dx
*\7"\
and
as the
volume k8x
is
now
is
This
is
7 -irr
d
7
- k, fdX
+ h
-j
V
ax
ax
by
- k
whose mean
whose mean
dX\
.
Ax
of the
former
is
abscissa
abscissa is
- k,
or
},,
dX-
+ kh
is x.
the
The
x + h will be
,.
- kh
ax
d2
The excess
nearly.
ax*
X
.
dxz
This
is
is
+ k2 h
d?X
-.
The volume
of
water on which
(t'X
it
acts
is
kh.
SIR
cause
is
d*
+ gk
35
depending on this
dx
d~X
= + 11
It
is
sin
dX
MI - mx) - Jt,
r-
dt
+ gk
f-r-
dx*
be useless
we
if
ripple on the
its
sin (it
X in
this for
mx) +
And
B (cos it - mx},
we
obtain immediately,
(i
(i
must separately =
mx}.
0,
z
gkm ]A +/. B + H,
= (i?-gkm 2 )B-fi.A;
from which
i*
=
(t
tides
X=A
and substitute
periodic character
knowwould
it
sea.
will be obtained
Let
and
glim*
2 2
gkntf + / i
___
z
fi
c/km
y +p
"
2
*'
APPENDIX.
:}6
and
X=-
(P-gkni*} sin
(lY
F be determined by the
F will
#-
wz) +/(cos
equation
always be positive
'
cos
F=
.-
r~km?
a
r-^
= 777^
The
sin
fi
F=
j-^
sm (^ + F- mx).
77VT
T~V^
were no
If there
^T
X becomes
X=
- k -7ax
is
mHk
friction,
/=
0,
^=0,
77"
X without friction =
^
-ff/cm
- mHk
- ^
r~5
i*-
cos
gkwf
In order
first
to
ascertain whether
SIR
37
of units of linear
or
ft
is
therefore
and
2n
i is
feet per
second.
The value
of
is
and gk
is
units of measure
i~
Thus
and time).
gkm~ =
(2800
- 128 x
depth
of sea in feet).
The denominator
of the sea.
be considered positive.
Now when the moon
y-x =
Therefore,
or 2
0,
- ghn 2
vertical over
(---)
r
\r
therefore, is always to
any point x
or
0,
ft
of the canal,
- mx =
0.
if
= -
surface
is
mHk
^'
it is
Consequently
This
is its
,.
maximum
negative value.
(//cm?
if
depth of the
sea.
Theorems equivalent
If there be friction,
D cos
(ft
quantity has
it
F - mx},
its
- mx =
to these
(D being the
coefficient above).
0, or
when
mx
:
it is
is
This
If there
^
YftiOG
friction,
-.
The
38
APPENDIX.
former value of
tvater
t is
the smaller
and therefore
the
phase of low
The magnitude
The value
of friction
at
any place x
is
is+/
solid
or
ar
(it
Hif
~T~i\2
To
/2
cos (^ +
-a>
F- mx).
we must
integrate
/
cos (it
with respect
is
to x,
obviously =
0,
+ F-mx), or coslit +
from x =
to
and therefore
x =
F-
-x\,
2rir.
any
First.
The
designated by
of
coefficient
H,
is
horizontal
If
we
forces,
which I have
proportional to the
take that value which
is
corresponds to half the depth of the water, the true value, or ZT',
may be represented nearly by
tidal rise }
SIR
mHk
1
*-*-
<
A "~
~*~,~7~*
o\~n
force, or
cos (it
~"
.ZZ
sin (it
39
- mx +
F},
-
mx}, will be
z#)
(<tf
sn
Giving to sin
F its value,
mx +
mH
sin
term
Second.
acting
is
The
JBTsin (it
H
-
sin (it
- mx}, we ought
mx - mX},
Putting for
not x but x +
expression
kfi
or JETsin (it
is
of using the
to use
mx}
mHX cos
(it
mx}.
its
(et
jr
...
(it
mx},
mH fi
2
This term
sum
of these
is
much
two terms +
c.
Call the
of motion, as
2
applying to this term only, and putting I for gk becomes
t
_
~
Let
It
X = u, H - x = v
into
dz
dX
cu
cuv
40
APPENDIX.
X = -^ (b
or,
- x2 +
<f>(bt-x}
")
For determining the form of the arbitrary functions, we rethat the final solution must contain no power of x (other-
mark
we
wise
round of the
Thus we
find
that the
X.= +
That
is,
there
is
=+ct
As
this is opposite
is
from the
of the
earth's nucleus.
If, as
we
dz
ax2
powers
of
as regards the
d*X
JX = 1
h /
d&
The
dt
X~j
from which the
friction
+ S +*'.<*,
APPENDIX.
41
upon
implies
THE
KJfl).
m
-
"'
'.
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