International Journal of Textile

and Fashion Technology (IJTFT)

ISSN(P): 2250-2378; ISSN(E): 2319-4510
Vol. 5, Issue 4, Aug 2015, 27-32
TJPRC Pvt. Ltd.

ECO-PRINTING OF ERI SILK WITH TURMERIC NATURAL DYE

SUNITA BORUAH1 & B. BAISHYA KALITA2
1

Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Design and Technology, Assam Womens University,
Jorhat, Assam, India
2

Professor, Department of Textile and Apparel designing, College of Home Science,

Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat, Assam, India

ABSTRACT
An investigation was carried out to find out the printing effect of turmeric (Curcuma longa) dye paste on physical
properties of eri silk fabric. Plain weave eri silk fabrics with three different mordants (alum, stannous chloride and ferrous
sulphate) were selected for the study. Fabrics were printed with using screen printing techniques with two traditional
designs. From the experiment it was found that all the printed samples exhibited an increasing trend increase recovery
angle, abrasion resistance, stiffness of fabric. The samples mordanted with alum exhibited the better result in respect of all
the physical properties compared to the other printed samples.

KEYWORDS: Eco-Friendly, Eri silk, Mordant, Physical Properties, Printing, Turmeric Dye
INTRODUCTION
The art of printing colour onto fabrics originated thousands of years ago. Printing produces more colourful effect
on the fabric and was also practiced in India thousands of years before the Christian Era. Printing is application of colour in
the form of a design which can be done by hand or machine. Hand printing is of two types viz., block printing and screen
printing. Dyes used in printing are same as in regular dyeing but instead of the thin dye bath solution thickener
combination are necessary for printing. Turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) which is the raw material of natural dye is widely
available as a household curry powder and also be utilized as a printing paste. North-eastern region of India has been
considered to be the homeland of all the commercially exploited silkworms i.e., eri, muga, tassar and mulberry. Out of
these, eri culture is the most ancient and is closely associated with tradition and culture of the people of their region. The
eri silk is also said to be a poor persons silk as it is not as high priced as other silk type. In India, eri was mostly used with
oven design for the preparation of winter shawls, jacket for men and women. Deess materials and baby dresses are also
made from Eri silk fabric, because of its soft texture and moisture absorbant quality. Eri silk durable and strong and has a
typical texture; hence, it is widely used in home furnishing like curtains, bed covers, cushion covers, etc. Therefore, the
investigator felt the need and made an attempt to introduce the printed designs to enhance its aesthetic properties as well as
demand in domestic and international market.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Selection and Preparation of Fabric
Plain weave eri silk fabric having following specification was taken for the experiment.

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Sunita Boruah & B. Baishya Kalita

Table 1: Construction Particulars of Test Fabric

Fabric
Eri
silk

Thread/cm
End
Pick
18

Weight Thickness
(gm/m2)

(mm)

195

0.592

20

Degumming
Eri silk was treated with 2 g/l lux powder solution and 2 g/l Na2CO3 at material to liquor ration (M:L) was 1:20
and boiled for 60 minutes at 50C with occasional stirring. After degumming the material was squeezed and washed
thoroughly in hot water followed by cold water and then dried in air. After that fabric was iron to removed wrinkles.
Nomenclature of the Sample
The samples names were assigned against different shades were obtained by the use of different mordants, which
are given in the table below:
Table 2: Nomenclature of the Sample
Sample
0
UT
AT1
AT2
AT3

Mordant
Alum
Stannous chloride
Ferrous sulphate

Shade obtained
Mastered yellow
Golden yellow
Orange
Brownish black

Selection of Design for Printing

Two traditional designs were selected and namely Joon-Dhol Biri Phul (Da) and Pepa-Japi Phul (Db).
Selection of Technique for Printing
Screen printing technique was selected for printing the fabric.
Selection of Chemical (Mordants) for Printing
The chemicals (mordant) used for the experiment were Alum (Al2SO4), Stannous chloride (SnCl2.2H2O), Ferrous
sulphate (Fe2SO4.7H2O), synthetic thickener (Ethyl acrylate) and fixer (Acrafix) were used for the experimental work.
Preparation of Dye Powder and Printing Paste for Printing
Preparation of Dye Powder
1 kg of raw fresh turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) was taken and boiled in 3 liter of water for 15 minutes at a boiling
temperature. After that the turmeric were dried in the sun light and powder were prepared.
Preparation of Printing Paste
Printing paste was prepared by using 6 per cent of turmeric dye powder, 1:2 thickener ratio, 1.5 per cent of fixer
concentration, 3 per cent of mordant concentration.
Application of Printing Paste on Fabric
Fabric was ironed and fixed on the printing table with pins. Screen was placed on top of it and the printing paste
was pouring on one side of the screen and it was spread with the help of the squeeze and dried in air for 24 hrs.

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

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Eco-Printing of Eri Silk with Turmeric Natural Dye

Developing of Printed Design

Printed samples were wrapped in paper and then steamed at a cottage steamer for a period of 1 hours at a boiling
temperature and then dried in air.

EXPERIMENTAL FINDINGS AND DISCUSSIONS

It was evident from the Table 3 both the warp and weft direction of all the samples showed a significant increased
increase recovery angle. The crease recovery angle in warp direction was greater than that of weft direction. The result of
the data also indicated the untreated sample (UT) exhibited maximum increased increase recovery angle (10.83 per cent)
followed by treated samples as AT1, AT2 and AT3 (7.31 per cent, 4.96 per cent and 3.87 per cent) in warp direction
respectively. In weft direction, the sample mordanted with alum (AT1) showed the highest crease recovery angle (12.67
per cent) and sample mordanted with ferrous sulphate (AT3) showed the lowest crease recovery angle (8.48 per cent). The
increase and decreased increase recovery may be due to different chemicals used in preparing the paste.
Table 3: Effect of Printing Paste on Fabric Crease Recovery Angle (Degree)
Direction of fabric
O
UT
AT1
AT2
WARP
120.36
133.40
143.15
140.02
% change in warp
+10.83
+7.31
+4.96
WEFT
107.87
121.50
136.89
133.08
% change in weft
+12.63
+12.67
+9.50
Note: +ve sign indicates increase in crease recovery angle

AT3
138.56
+3.87
131.81
+8.48

Percent change of untreated sample (UT) is calculated from O sample

Percent change of treated samples were calculated from UT sample
The Table 4 revealed that all the samples had increased in abrasion resistance. The increase abrasion resistance of
untreated sample (UT) was found 10.76 per cent. However, among all the treated samples with different mordants were
found to be higher abrasion resistance (4.16 per cent) in sample mordanted with alum (AT1) than AT2 (1.38 per cent) and
AT3, (1.38 per cent).The decrease in abrasion resistance may be due to effect of different chemicals used in preparing paste
and increase may be due to absorption of paste.
Table 4: Effect of Printing Paste on Abrasion Resistance of Fabric (Cycle to Rupture)
Aspect
O
UT
Abrasion resistance
65
72
% change in abrasion
+10.76
resistance
Note: +ve sign indicates increase in abrasion resistance

AT1
75

AT2
73

AT3
73

+4.16

+1.38

+1.38

Percent change of untreated sample (UT) is calculated from O sample

Pcent change of treated samples were calculated from UT sample
Both warp and weft direction of treated and untreated samples indicated an increased in bending length reported
in Table 5. The maximum increased was found in sample AT3 mordanted with ferrous sulphate (37.83 per cent) followed
by AT2 (32.11 per cent), AT1 (17.96 per cent) and UT (1.43 per cent) in weft direction. Whereas the sample in warp
direction, as for AT1 mordanted with alum showed increased by 34.09 per cent, AT2 mordanted with stannous chloride by
30.30 per cent, AT3 mordanted with ferrous sulphate by 28.21 per cent and untreated sample (UT) by 25.37 per cent
respectively. Increasesed in breaking strength in both warp and weft due to higher crimp percentage and also due to the

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Sunita Boruah & B. Baishya Kalita

increase in size of the dye molecule after using the chemical as a metal salt.
Table 5: Effect of Printing Paste on Bending Length (cm) of Fabric
Direction of fabric
O
UT
AT1
WARP
2.64
3.31
3.54
% change in warp
+25.37
+34.09
WEFT
3.145
3.19
3.71
% change in weft
+1.43
+17.96
Note: + ve sign indicates increase in bending length

AT2
3.44
+30.30
4.155
32.11

AT3
3.385
+28.21
4.335
+37.83

Percent change of untreated sample (UT) is calculated from O sample

Percent change of treated samples were calculated from UT sample
From the Table 6 it was evident that all the samples found an increased trend in flexural rigidity in warp and weft
direction. Highest increased was observed in sample mordanted with ferrous sulphate (AT3 ) by174.12 per cent followed
by AT2 (137.78 per cent), AT1 (70.11 per cent) and UT (8.133 per cent) in weft direction. The sample mordanted with alum
(AT1 ) showed maximum increased in flexual rigidity in warp direction by 149.87 per cent and the untreated sample (UT)
showed lowest flexural rigidity by 104.27 per cent, respectively. The decreased in flexural rigidity may be use of chemicals
in preparing the printing paste and increase may be due to absorption of dye paste.
Table 6: Effect of Printed Samples on Flexural Rigidity (mNmm) of Fabric
O
UT
AT1
WARP
34.83
71.15
87.03
% change in warp
+104.27
+149.87
WEFT
58.89
63.68
100.18
% change in weft
+8.183
+70.11
Note: + ve sign indicates increase in flexural rigidity

AT2
79.46
+128.13
140.03
+137.78

AT3
76.85
+120.04
161.43
+174.12

Percent change of untreated sample (UT) is calculated from O sample

Percent change of treated samples were calculated from UT sample

CONCLUSIONS
The present experiment unveiled that the printing paste of turmeric can be successfully utilized to print the eri silk
fabric which is eco-friendly, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable. The printing of eri silk fabric with turmeric dye
produced various soft and stable natural print. Sample mordent with alum showed the better result in respect of all the
physical properties compared to the other printed sample.
On the other hand turmeric has various medicinal properties. It is used to cure pain, boils, pimples, piles etc. So
eri fabrics printing with turmeric dye paste may relive body pains. Thus printing eri silk fabric with turmeric dye paste give
a new look to this poor mans friend, will boost in preparing diversified products. Such efforts are required to improve the
quality and aesthetic value of eri silk to match with new trends in national and international market.

REFERENCES
1.

Agarwal, M.; Singh, S.S.J.; Rose, M.N. and Pruthi, N. (2004). Application of mango bark (Mangifera indica) for
printing. Textile Trends XLVII (3): 41-43.

2.

Bhuyan, R. (2003). Isolation and characterization of natural colouring materials (natural dyes) from selected plant
sources and studies of their dyeing characteristics. Ph.D. Thesis, Dibrugarh University, Dibrugarh.

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

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Eco-Printing of Eri Silk with Turmeric Natural Dye

3.

Corbman, B.P. (1976). Textiles Fibre to Fabric. 4th Edition, McGraw Hill Book. Inc., New York, pp. 223-227.

4.

Dantyagi, S. (1983). Fundamentals of Textiles and their care 4th edition, Orient Longman Ltd., New Delhi, pp. 141

5.

Garg, N.; Gupta, S. and Saini, R. (1999). Text Book of Clothing and Textiles. 4th Edition, Kalyani Publishers,
New Delhi, Calcutta, pp. 102-124.

6.

Gogoi, A. (1998). Vegetable dyes and eri silk. Indian Textile Journal CVIII(10): 74-78.

7.

Joseph, M.L. (1975). Essentials of Textiles. 3rd Edition, Holt., Rinehart and Winston, Inc., USA, pp. 265-268.

8.

Khanikor, D.P. (2001). Sericulture in North-eastern region of India. In : Souvenir. 5th Agricultural Science
Congress, Guwahati, p. 43-46.

9.

Reddy, D.N.R.; Baruah, M.M. and Reddy, R.N. (1998). Effective utilization of eri silk worm waste. In : The Third
International Conference on Wild Silk Moths, pp. 278-280.

10. Shenal, V.A. (1983). Technology of textile processing, Vol. II. Chemistry of dyes and principles of dyeing. Sevak
Publication, Bombay, pp. 261-265.

APPENDICES

Plate 1: UT (Da) : Without Mordanting JoonDhul Biri (Phul) Design SAMPLE

Plate 2. UT (Db) : Without Mordanting PepaJapi (Phul) Design Sample

Plate 3: AT1 (Da) : Mordanted Joon-Dhul Biri

(Phul) Design Sample with Alum

Plate 4: AT1 (Db) : Mordanted Pepa-Japi

(Phul) Design Sample with Alum

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Sunita Boruah & B. Baishya Kalita

Plate 5: AT2 (Da) : Mordanted Joon-Dhul Biri

(Phul) Design Sample with Stannous Chloride

Plate 6: AT2 (Db) : Mordanted Pepa-Japi

(Phul) Design Sample with Stannous Chloride

Plate 7: AT3 (Da) : Mordanted Joon-Dhul Biri

(Phul) Design Sample with Ferrous Sulphate

Plate 8: AT3 (Db) : Mordanted Pepa-Japi

(Phul) Design Sample with Ferrous Sulphate

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0