Painting the inside

of your home
Planning
Painting equipment
Paints and primers
Using and cleaning
brushes and rollers
Preparing surfaces
Painting your ceiling
Painting interior walls
Painting your trim with
enamel
Waterproofing a shower

Paints, Arts & Crafts

Contents

Planning ......................................................................................... 2

Painting equipment ...........................................................................

Paints and primers ............................................................................ 10

Using and cleaning brushes and rollers ................................................. 12

Preparing the surface ........................................................................ 17

Painting your ceiling ......................................................................... 20

Painting interior walls ........................................................................ 22

Painting your trim with enamel ............................................................ 24

Waterproofing your shower ................................................................ 31

To get the best

results from yo
ur
painting job you
must measure
and prepare your
area and surfac
es
thoroughly.

Planning
To find out how much paint youll need you must first calculate
the area to be painted. Measure the height and width of each
wall, then multiply the results together to give you its area. Do the
same for each window and door, counting any open hatches as
windows and any doorless frames or arches as doors.
Add the areas of all the walls together and subtract the areas of
all the doors and windows. The calculation will look something like
this:
5.44 m x 2.07 m

0.9 m (h)
x 1.145 m (w)

Ascertain the spread rate

of the paint. If its not printed
on the side of the tin, check
with the manufacturer. The
rate is often given as m/.
Now divide the m you need
to paint by the spread rate.
For instance, if the spread rate
is 9 m/, then the example
above would need 13.76 9
= 1.53 litres. If two coats are
required, simply multiply 1.53
by 2 (= 3.06).

2.532 m (w)
x 2.07 m (h)

2.1 m (h)
x 0.813 m (w)

Wall 5.44 m x 2.07 m = 11.2608 m

Wall 2.532 m x 2.07 m = 5.24124 m
Door 2.1 m x 0.813 m = 1.7073 m
Window 0.9 m x 1.145 m = 1.0305 m
Calculation 11.26 + 5.24 1.71 1.03 = 13.76 m
2

There are many online

calculators which will do the
calculations for you.
Having bought the paint,
take time to read the directions
on the tin for the proper way
to prep and prime your walls
before painting them with that
specific paint.

Painting equipment
SANDING

need to start with a coarse grit,

whereas if you are just scuffing
the surface to paint over it,
you will need an extra fine grit
(220).

WIRE BRUSHES

What you
will need:
- Sanding block
- Wire brushes
- Scrapers
- Putty knife or filler tool
- Mutton cloth

- Disposable overalls

- Paint shield

- Painters tape

Sanding a previously painted

surface before repainting it
ensures that the new paint
or primer will bond well with
the surface and you end up
with a lasting, quality coat.
Some electric sanders are too
abrasive to use on paint so
you have to be careful not to
gouge the surface with them.
Always choose sandpaper
with the right grit for the job.
For removing old paint you will

- Polycell brush cleaner

- Paint paddle/stirrer
- Drop cloths,
plastic sheeting
- Paint pot/kettle

These are mainly used for

removing old paint and rust.
They come in all shapes and
sizes and also as attachments
for electric drills (excellent for
cleaning rusted burglar bars).

- Safety gear
- Paintbrushes
- Rollers
- Crack filler

DISPOSABLE
OVERALLS

SCRAPERS

Scrapers are ideal for removing

old paint, rust, putty or glue but
as they have sharp edges and
corners, mind you dont scar the
surface with one. Before storing
a scraper, make sure its clean.
A quick wipe with turpentine
will do the job.

its easier to press filler into a

crack and scrape off the excess
afterwards. Once dry, sand the
filler smooth, paint with plaster
primer and then your topcoat.

MUTTON CLOTH

PUTTY KNIVES OR
FILLER TOOLS

Before filling a crack, knock off

any loose bits of plaster, brick
or paint and brush out any
loose material and dust. Open
up the crack if necessary. Paint
the crack with plaster primer
to ensure the filler bonds well
with it, then use a putty knife
or filler tool to press the filler
into the crack. A filler tool is
similar to a scraper but has a
more flexible blade with which
4

A pure cotton, soft and

absorbent fabric thats ideal for
buffing, polishing, dusting and
cleaning. Some waxes and
polishes cannot be removed
by washing so its best to keep
separate cloths for specific
uses. Mutton cloth is good for
wiping up spills too.

These are really convenient and

can be reused, but they wont
hold up to a wash. You can
buy just a jacket or a whole suit
that protects all your clothing
and hair. They are breathable
and lightweight with elastic
cuffs and ankles.

PAINT SHIELDS

A ready-made guard to keep

paint off an adjacent surface.
Often used when painting
window frames and skirting
boards. The shield is held
against the glass or wall to
protect it. An alternative to
masking off areas and a handy
tool that can be cleaned and
reused.

PAINTERS TAPE

An alternative to masking tape.

Masking tape can be hard to
remove and can take some of
your new paint with it, which
means touching up. Bloc-it
painters tape is designed to
be easily removed and leave a
clean, crisp edge every time.
It also prevents any paint from
seeping through. Tape is an
essential item when doing paint
effects or masking between two
colours.

POLYCELL BRUSH
CLEANER
Although more expensive than
turpentine (the regular solvent
cleaner), these powerful solventbased cleaners are easily
rinsed off with water. To clean a
brush used with oil-based paint,
work a small amount through
the bristles,
then rinse with
water until the
water runs
clear. Hang
the brush (or
roller) up to
dry. Allow
dirty cleaner
to stand and
separate.
The clear top
layer can be
reused but the
sediment must
be disposed of correctly (see
page 14 ).

PAINT PADDLES/
STIRRERS

Most paint needs stirring before

use, the exception being nondrip enamel. Always read the
instructions on the tin before
stirring, then stir with a clean,
flat, smooth piece of wood with
holes drilled through it, or a
ready-made paint stirrer, which
is the reusable option. Or use a
drill attachment stirrer.

DROP CLOTHS OR
PLASTIC SHEETING

Its important to protect your

floors, furnishings and trim
when painting. Flecks of paint
can go everywhere, even when
you are being careful. Drop
cloths are for protecting floors
from drips and spills and are
positioned right up against the
walls or under the ceiling being
painted. Plastic sheeting is
slippery so its not that good
to use under a ladder or
underfoot, but it is handy for
wrapping around furniture,
taping over doorways and
taping to skirting boards to
save you lots of cleaning up
afterwards.

PAINT PAILS/
KETTLES

Its always advisable to decant

paint into another container
rather than use it straight from
the tin. This ensures that any
bristles that fall out of your
brush and any dirt that it picks
up wont contaminate the
entire tin. A ready-made paint
pot is recommended. Spare
paint pots come with magnetic
brush holders that save you
from damaging your brushes
by standing them in the paint,
disposable liners which make
cleaning them much easier, and
Velcro straps for attaching them
to your ladder.

SAFETY GEAR

Safety glasses
Latex gloves (especially
with solvent-based paints)
Short scarf or cap (to cover
your hair)
Overalls

PAINTBRUSHES
Always have a project in mind when choosing a paintbrush as it
will help you pick the best one for the job. If you are stocking your
workshop, choose quality brushes as they will last you a lifetime.
Paintbrushes can be used with all types of paint as well as with
lacquers, varnishes and oils. In addition to painting, varnishing
or sealing whole objects, such as doors, walls, furniture and toys,
they can be used for cutting in (painting the edges, corners or trim)
when you roller a wall. It is possible to paint a wall itself with a
brush, but this is uncommon as rollers do the job much better.

QUALITY

VS

Quality brushes improve with use

as their loose bristles are lost and the
tips become rounded, enhancing
paint pick up and release.
You also wont have to load the
brush with paint so often as quality
brushes have a high loading
capacity.

CHEAP BRUSHES
Cheap brushes are acceptable
when youre buying an all-rounder
brush to use only a few times, but
they tend to drop their bristles
into your paint and onto your newly
painted surface, and they dont
spread the paint evenly.

If the ferrule (the metal binder

between the handle and bristles) is
made of stainless steel, it wont ever
rust.

They also have fewer bristles for their

width, which affects their paintloading capacity, and the bristles
are often anchored with an adhesive
which deteriorates with use, which
means you lose bristles every time.

Quality brushes also hold their shape

and form over long periods, but you
do need to clean, look after and
store them correctly.

Projects where cheap brushes

are needed include applying wood
preservatives to rough timber or for
removing dust after sanding.

WHAT SIZE BRUSHES TO CHOOSE

< 25 mm

Small jobs, touch up work on toys, chairs, interior trim

38 mm

Furniture, small panels, window frames, downpipes

50 mm

Small to medium-sized projects, including doors, table tops, cabinets, gutters

75 mm

Medium to large projects, including floorboards, skirting, fence posts,

cupboards, outdoor furniture

100 mm <

Large flat areas such as walls, floors, ceilings, roofs

CUTTING IN BRUSH

NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSHES

STORAGE

Store brushes by hanging

them, lying them flat or
propping them upside down
in a jar. The bristles need to
be protected, so never store
brushes with pressure on the
tips or sides of the bristles.

These are narrow and angled

so as to give a smooth line.
They are used for painting
around fixtures and areas
where a roller or larger brush
would be unweildy. Quality
cutting in brushes have a
convex chisel shape to
produce smooth even lines.

Natural bristle brushes are

often used with varnishes, oils,
fibreglass, glues and resins.
Ones with unpainted wooden
handles are meant for resins
and solvents that would dissolve
any paint on the handles.
Natural bristle brushes are the
best for oil-based paints (but
not latex paints, which need
synthetic bristles).

If a paint requires a
particular type of brush
or roller, it will say so
on the tin.
7

FOAM ROLLERS

ROLLERS
Ideal for covering large areas such as walls, doors and ceilings
quickly and smoothly. Foam rubber or mohair rollers are best for
smooth surfaces while lambs wool or nylon pile rollers are best for
textured ones. Rollers are always used with a roller tray.

ROLLER TRAY

splatter and are virtually lint-free.

Mohair rollers are also suitable
for solvent-based enamel paints,
unlike most rollers.

These are general purpose

rollers, used for smooth and
lightly textured surfaces, but
they do not give a high-quality
finish. Some can be used for
paint effects.

MINI FOAM ROLLERS

LAMBSWOOL ROLLERS

Holds the paint for loading

rollers. Some new trays are
designed to be used on a
ladder (vertical) and you can
also get deeper ones to use
with thicker rollers.

SHEEPSKIN ROLLERS

Wool has good paint pick up

and release, which means less
splatter and a long lifespan. It
is also suitable for varnishes,
enamels and other solventbased products.

SYNTHETIC ROLLERS

Suitable for all types of paint

and for covering small to
medium areas. Handy for spots
where normal rollers cant fit
(behind pipes etc).

STORAGE

Professionals tend to use these

as they hold more paint and
are easier to work with - less
splatter and fewer fibres shed.

MOHAIR ROLLERS

These have a fine nap and

give a quality finish on smooth
surfaces. They produce less
8

There are thick-nap synthetic

rollers for rough and textured
walls, and fine-nap rollers
for smoother surfaces. They
are often the most costeffective rollers. You also get
combination rollers with a mix
of natural and synthetic fibres.

Hang up rollers when not in use

to prevent the pile from being
flattened, but ensure they dont
lean against a wall or other flat
surface.

EXTENSION POLE
Extension poles enable you to paint ceilings and the tops of walls
without using a ladder or scaffolding. Most rollers have hollow
handles into which you can screw one. They also speed up
painting as you dont have to keep climbing up and down the
ladder to reload your roller or move the ladder when painting a
ceiling.

PAINTING VOCABULARY
A few painting terms you might like to know

BLISTERING

BUBBLES

hot day), or the paint was

stretched too far during
application.

EXTREME CRACKING

The name for the bubbles

that sometimes form while
paint is drying. They can
be caused by moisture in
the wood, adding a second
coat before the first has
dried properly, or applying
paint to a surface thats too
hot or greasy.

Refers to the bubbles in

newly applied paint. Can be
caused by excessive rolling
or vigorous mixing which
resulted in trapped air.

CHALKING

The formation of powder

on a top layer of paint.
Often caused by the paint
breaking down through
weathering.

Also called crocodiling.

Could be because the
undercoat is incomparable
with the topcoat or because
the topcoat was applied
before the previous coat
had dried completely, or
because of loss of paint
elasticity due to extreme
temperature fluctuations.

CRACKING OR FLAKING

MUD CRACKS

When a newly painted

surface cracks, either the
surface was incorrectly
prepared, the paint dried
too fast (e.g. on a very

Deep irregular cracks that

appear in paint that was
applied too thickly or when
there are coats of different
thicknesses.

BLUSHING

When lacquer dries cloudy

instead of clear. Caused
by moisture in the lacquer
as a result of the solvent
evaporating too quickly.

Fired Earth A
ll-in-One
is a combined
plaster
primer, seale
r and
undercoat, w
hich
means you on
ly have
to apply one
coat of
it and nothing
else
before your
topcoat.

Paints and primers

TYPES OF PAINT
ACRYLIC

Fast-drying, water-based
paints that can be used on
most surfaces over a suitable
primer. Commonly used for
large areas, such as walls and
ceilings. The gloss versions are
never as glossy as their enamel
equivalents. Acrylics are often
chosen because they are easy
to work with, can be cleaned
off brushes etc with water, and
are quick drying.
10

ENAMEL

Oil-based paints, generally

reserved for timber and
metalwork such as doors,
architraves, window frames
and burglar bars. Produce a
tough, glossy finish thats easy
to clean and great for areas
which sustain small knocks,
such as doorways. However,
enamels take longer to dry
between coats (often overnight),
and its harder to clean the
brushes and rollers because you
need a solvent.

UNDERCOAT

Prepares the surface for the

topcoat. Designed with the
type of surface in mind. Assists
with paint adhesion, improves
topcoat coverage and ensures
a good finish. Often used
when painting a water-based
paint on top of a solvent-based
one.

PAINT FINISHES
MATT FINISH
Modo Pink to White
Ceiling Paint goes on
pink before drying white,
thereby making it easy
to see if youve missed a
spot during application.
No need for a primer
either, just prep, apply an
undercoat and paint on
your Pink to White.

PRIMERS

A finish that doesnt shine.

Often used for ceilings and
irregular wall surfaces (except
in kitchens and bathrooms,
where a semi-gloss or gloss
paint is usually chosen for its
ability to withstand frequent
washing). Although not popular,
solvent-based paints with a matt
finish are occasionally found.

SATIN AND LOW SHEEN

HIGH GLOSS

Ideal for rooms with a lot of

traffic and need to be moisture,
dirt and grease resistant, such
as bathrooms and kitchens.

Gloss finishes highlight

imperfections while matt
finishes hide them. So if
painting a wall with a
shoddy plaster job, make
sure you choose matt paint.

A primer seals the surface to

be painted and binds the paint
onto it. It is one of the most vital
steps in the painting process.
Different primers are needed for
different surfaces. For interior
walls you need a plaster primer,
for wood, a wood primer,
and for metal, a metal primer.
Primers can also be used on
surfaces that defy cleaning.

BONDING LIQUID
Used on friable and highly
porous surfaces (such as raw
brick, weathered paintwork,
lime-washed walls and filled
cracks) to ensure the paint
sticks to them and doesnt flake
after drying.

Sometimes referred to as
eggshell. Recommended for
most walls. Often easier to
clean than matt paints.

GLOSS AND SEMI-GLOSS

Generally used on windows,
doors and other woodwork
thats susceptible to greater
wear and soiling as they are
hard-wearing and easy to
wash. But gloss finishes tend to
show brush and roller marks as
well as surface imperfections,
so preparation needs to be
thorough, with all cracks and
holes filled in and spot-primed.
The paint also needs to be
layed off (given final light brush
strokes in the direction of the
wood grain) if you want a
smooth, even finish.

With the right primer

you can give almost any
surface a new look. The
important thing is to get rid
of any sheen on the old
surface as it will prevent
paint adhesion. One way
of doing this is to dull the
surface with superfine
220-grit sandpaper.
Give your kitchen a facelift
by painting your melamine
cupboards and tiles for a
fraction of the price of an
entire revamp. Its as easy
as clean, sand, prime and
paint.

11

The success
of your paint
job depends on
your brush and
roller...

Using and cleaning brushes

and rollers
HOW TO PAINT WITH A BRUSH

You can speed up paint

mixing by buying a mixer
attachment for your drill or,
if using a wooden paddle,
by drilling large holes
(20 mm or so) in it.

2 Choose the right size brush.

Grip large brushes around
the handle and hold smaller
brushes more like a pencil.

1
1 Stir the paint with a paint

paddle except for non-drip

paint, which you mustnt stir
at all. Mix in any liquid thats
risen to the surface thoroughly
by lifting the stirrer as you go.
12

4
3
3 Flick the bristles against your
hand to remove any dust, old
paint and loose bristles.

4 Wet the brush and squeeze

dry (use water for water-based
paints) and turpentine for
solvent-based paints). This will
help the bristles to absorb and
release the paint better.

5
5 Dip the brush into the paint
to about one-third of the bristle
length.

8
8 When using an acrylic, apply
the paint in horizontal bands
from the top to the bottom of the
area, working the paint in all
directions as you go.

6 Press the brush against the

wall of the tin to remove surplus

paint; do not scrape it over
the rim as too much paint will
come off.

or other liquid in which you

have cleaned brushes down
the drain as it will pollute our
water. See page 14.

DEFINITION: CUTTING IN
9
9 Before reloading a brush,

7 When using an oil-based

enamel, apply three vertical
strips, leaving gaps just
narrower than the width of the
brush between them. Then,
without reloading the brush,
brush it horizontally across
the strips to work the paint
into the gaps. Then, using
the same brush but without
reloading it, apply light vertical
strokes, ending on an upstroke.
Continue with the next section
in the same manner.

11 Never throw paint, solvent

Keep toothpicks on hand to

remove any bristles that end
up in your paint. Remove,
then brush over the area.
Doing this while the paint is
still wet is the easiest way
of remedying the problem.

11

wipe it on the edge of the pot

to remove any paint that has
worked its way up the bristles
and handle.

The term for painting the

edges of a wall next to doors,
ceilings, fixtures or a different
colour -- all the spots that are
hard to paint properly with a
roller. You can use a normal
paintbrush for this or an angled
brush, but there are also
ready-made cutting in brushes
designed to produce clean,
smooth lines.

Green hint

10
10 When finished, clean your

Never allow the water

in which you are
cleaning brushes or
rollers to run down the
drain. This is harmful,
pollutes our water and
is often illegal. See
page 14.

brush immediately.

13

HOW TO CLEAN A BRUSH

AFTER PAINTING WITH
ACRYLIC
1

Gently scrape excess

paint from the brush onto
cardboard or absorbent
paper. Using the back of
a putty knife, work from
the heel (the base of the
bristles) to the tip.

HOW TO CLEAN A BRUSH

AFTER PAINTING WITH
ENAMEL (SOLVENT BASED)
1

Gently scrape excess

paint from the brush onto
cardboard or absorbent
paper. Use the back of a
putty knife and work from
the base of the bristles to
the tip.

Wash water-based paint

out of the brush under
a running tap over a
bucket. Rub a little soap or
washing-up liquid into the
bristles and rinse in clean
water.
Shake brushes vigorously
outdoors to get rid of
excess water.

Let the brush air dry

completely.

Slip a loose rubber band

over the tip of the bristles
to hold them together and
to keep the brush in shape
for future use. Alternatively,
wind some old newspaper
or paper around the damp
brush a couple to times and
leave to dry - the newspaper
will keep the bristles aligned
while in storage.

Work a small amount of

Polycell Brush Cleaner
through the bristles in an
old tin or glass jar.

Rinse the brush with water

until the water runs clean.

All the brushes benefit from

a final wash in soap and
a rinse in clean water, but
its not strictly necessary.

Shake brushes vigorously

to get rid of any remaining
cleaner. Its best to do
this in an old paint tin or
bucket as brush cleaners
are not good for the
environment or plants.

Let the brush air dry

completely.

Slip a loose rubber band

over the tip of the bristles
to hold them together and
keep the brush in shape
for future use. Alternatively,
wind some old newspaper
or paper around the
damp brush a couple of
times and leave to dry the newspaper will keep
the bristles aligned while
in storage.

DISPOSING OF THE CLEANING WATER

DISPOSING OF THE CLEANING SOLVENT

This is the correct way to minimise the

impact on our planet and its valuable water
resources.

If you have a container of dirty Polycell brush

cleaner or turpentine, heres how to get rid of
it without harming the environment.
NB: Its illegal in most municipalities to throw
this solvent down a drain.

Let the paint settle in the bucket.

Overnight is best.
Pour the clear water down the drain.
Scrape the paint sediment into old
newspaper and add to your domestic
rubbish.
Never throw paint or liquid in which you
have cleaned brushes down a drain.
14

Allow the paint to separate from the solvent

in a closed container. This might take a few
days.
Pour off the clear top layer of solvent for
reuse and seal in a clean, airtight container.
Leave the remainder to dry out in an old tin
or jar, then add to your domestic rubbish.

HOW TO PAINT WITH A ROLLER

1
1 Thoroughly stir the paint with
a flat paint paddle.

3
3 Wet the roller and squeeze
dry (use water for water-based
paints and turpentine for
solvent-based paints). This will
help the pile to absorb and
release the paint.

5 Dip the roller into the paint

and then run it lightly on the
ridged part of the tray. This will
spread the paint evenly on the
roller.

Line your paint tray with

aluminium foil or cling
wrap so you dont have to
clean it when finished. Just
throw away the liner.

6
6 When painting a wall, place

2
2 Use a brush to cut in the

edges around the doors,

windows, skirting, interior
corners and where walls meet
the ceilings or a cornice.

4
4 Fill about one-third of a roller
tray with paint. Do not overfill
or it will spill.

the roller in the middle of a

run (strip of wall about a metre
wide) and work it up to the
ceiling and then down towards
the floor in a W pattern. This
will distribute the paint. Then,
without reloading the roller,
work it horizontally across the
area to fill in the gaps.
15

HOW TO CLEAN A ROLLER

1

Scrape as much paint as

possible from the roller
back into the paint tray
using a paint stirrer.

7
7 Do not stretch the paint out.
When it starts to run out reload
the roller and continue applying
in a W pattern.

Run the roller over the

ribbed part of the tray
and then over sheets of
newspaper to remove
excess paint.

Remove the roller from the

handle, if possible. For
water-based paint, wash
under running water (over
a bucket), working the
paint out with your hands
(wearing latex gloves).
More than one bucket
might be necessary.
Continue until all the paint
has been washed out.

8
8 Overlap strokes while paint is

For solvent-based paint,

work a small amount of
Polycell brush cleaner
through the roller pile,
then rinse over a bucket
until the water coming off
is no longer milky.

Shake roller vigorously

outdoors.

Air dry before storing.

Store by hanging so you

dont damage the nap.

Never throw paint

residue down the drain.
(See page 14 for
disposal).

wet for a smoother finish. End

each section with a light roll to
even out any lines left by the
roller.

9
9 Clean roller immediately after
use.
16

Drill small (2.5 mm) holes

in the groove around
the rim of the paint tin to
allow any paint in it to
drain back after decanting
into a roller tray. As paint
doesnt store well in a tin
thats no longer airtight,
do this only if you intend
using all the paint.

Green hint

Large amounts of
turpentine are needed to
clean brushes and rollers
properly. However if you
choose a brush cleaner like
Polycell, only a small amount is
needed; the last bit of washing
happens with water. So brush
cleaners are a greener
option than turpentine.

Never leave brushes or

rollers to soak in water or
solvent as it will damage
the integrity of the bristles
or pile.

Preparing the surface

HOW TO PREPARE THE SURFACES
1

Remove all door locks and

other fittings.

Check for damp (see

page 19) and remove
the cause. Wait for about
a month for the wall to
dry out completely before
painting.

To remove any mildew,

clean with a solution of
water, bleach and a mild
ammonia-free detergent.
Wash walls and
mouldings down
thoroughly with warm
water and sugar soap
(clean walls require 20%
less paint). Make sure
you rinse off the sugar
soap properly (use rubber
gloves to protect your
hands from this alkaline
product). Clean around
electrical outlets and
switches with a damp
cloth and sugar soap.

Make sure no water gets

onto your electrical fitings;
rinse by wiping with a
clean damp cloth.

Remove any loose or

peeling paint with a
scaper and feather the
edges with sandpaper. Try
not to gouge the surface
with the scraper as you
will have to go back and
fill in the marks.

What you
will need:
- Canvas drop cloths
- Plastic drop cloths

- Detergent/sugar soap
and warm water
- Clean rags and sponges
- Bloc-it painters
tape
- Paint scraper

SAFETY GEAR
Dust mask
Safety
glasses
Rubber
gloves
Overalls

- Spatula and filling

compound
- Hammer (if needed)
- Sandpaper, sanding
block
- Plaster primer
- Paint tin opener (or
screwdriver)
- Paint stirrer/paddle

17

Apply filler to any large

uneven areas or gashes
in the old paint. Do the
same with nail holes and
cracks. Level the areas
you have filled and, once
dry, sand smooth. (Refer
to the Cracks section).

Sand walls lightly,

including the corners, to
smooth out any lumps
and bumps with fine-grit
sandpaper.
After sanding, be sure to
brush and vacuum away
the dust. Surfaces must
be free of all dirt, crayon
(wax) and grease (try
washing or, alternatively,
sanding these away) as
they could bleed through
the paint if left.

Tape over light switches

and plug points (or, better
yet, remove the cover
plates).

10

Mask all doors, windows

and skirting boards with
painters tape so no paint
gets on them, then cut in
up to them.

11

Spot-prime any newly

patched areas on the
walls. Ask a Builders
to help you choose the
right primer for your
preparation coat.

12

Apply an undercoat
followed by your topcoat.

Start at the floor and move

towards the ceiling when
cleaning a wall with sugar
soap. The grimiest part is
usually near the ceiling so
cleaning it last means you
wont drag the dirt across the
rest of the wall.

18

CRACKS
All cracks should be opened
up and filled before painting.

4
4 Sand flush with the wall.

1
1 Sand around the crack and

open it up with a scraping

knife. Vacuum all the dust out or
use a clean wet rag to pick it
up. Allow to dry.

2
2 Apply a coat of plaster primer
and allow to dry.

3
3 Mix filler and fill the crack
with it using an X pattern.
Allow to dry.

5
5 Paint with plaster primer to
ensure your undercoat or
topcoat adhere well.

Use a 100 mm paintbrush or

an old dustpan brush dipped
in warm water and sugar
soap to wash a textured wall
in preparation for painting.
Rinse well to neutralise the
soap.

Write down the name of

the paint (its colour), the
manufacturer and batch
number with a permanent
marker on the inside of the
light switch cover. Should
you repaint, you will then be
able to match it closely, if not
exactly.

THE DAMP ISSUE

Three types of damp problems occur with walls; rising damp,
penetrating damp and condensation.

RISING DAMP

leaking shower seeps through to

the ceiling of the room below,
or when water from a leaking
gutter runs down a wall. Damp
patches then occur on the wall
or ceiling and attract mildew.

CONDENSATION

Caused when groundwater

moves up through the brickwork
and affects the plaster and
paint. When soil lies up against
a wall, water can also seep
through the bricks sideways.
This is usually noticeable as
brown stains where the wall
and floor join. Other signs that
you have rising damp are soft,
crumbly plaster and peeling
paint.

PENETRATING DAMP

The moisture in humid air can

condense on wall surfaces.
Where this is ongoing it
encourages mould to grow
on and stain the surface. The
problem, which often affects
bathrooms, can be cured with
proper ventilation.

SOLVING IT

When water drips constantly

onto a painted surface,
the paint weathers faster
than normal and can allow
the water to penetrate the
underlying surface. Examples
of this are when water from a

The solution to damp problems

is to remove the cause. Begin
by identifying the cause.
Whether its a leaking gutter,
air conditioner outlet, geyser
overflow or soil against
bricks, you have to fix it.
Air conditioner outlets and
geyser overflows can be
routed further away through
tubing or piping, gutters can
be fixed and showers can be

waterproofed. If the problem

is a wall with soil against it,
consider stepping the soil
back permanently, or exposing
the wall and waterproofing it
properly before replacing the
soil. Rising damp might require
more drastic action, such as
routing groundwater away
from foundations. In such cases
youll need to consult a damp/
waterproofing specialist.

Before repainting a wall that

had damp issues you must
take steps to prevent any
moisture still trapped in the
bricks from affecting your new
paintwork. Scrape or sand
the wall back to the plaster
and wash with sugar soap.
Repair any cracks in the plaster
with Tite waterproof crack
filler, then apply three coats of
thinned Dampseal, as per the
instructions. Sand the surface
smooth and paint with plaster
primer and an undercoat
before finishing with a topcoat.

19

Painting your ceiling

When painting an entire room, first paint the ceiling, then the walls
and lastly the woodwork and trim. Any splashes and splatters will
then land on areas still to be painted.

1 PERSON

3
SKILL

6 HOURS

HOW TO PAINT YOUR CEILING

What you
will need:
- Drop cloth and
plastic sheeting
- Paint stirrer
- Modo Pink to White
Ceiling Paint
- Cutting in

1
1 Prep by washing and rinsing

the surface to get rid of any

grease. Scrape off any flaking
paint, fill in any cracks and
sand down any lumps and
bumps.

20

brush (50 mm)

SAFETY GEAR

Safety glasses
Cap to protect hair
Overalls
Latex gloves

- Paint tray
- Roller
- Extension pole
- Ladder

2
2 If you have cornices, they will
need to be cut in completely as
your roller will not be able to
adequately paint them. Extend
the cut-in about 100 mm onto
the ceiling.

3
3 If you dont have cornices,

then cut in where the ceiling

and walls meet, extending the
paint about 100 mm onto both
the walls and ceiling to ensure
no gaps will be left after youve
painted the walls.

4
4 Using an extension pole, roller on a thin coat of Modo Pink
to White Ceiling Paint. It will show up any spots youve missed
as the paint goes on pink before drying to white. A thin coat
will ensure there are no drips and runs. Work from one side of
the ceiling to the otther, moving backwards to avoid too many
splatters landing on the area youve already painted.

5
5 Let the paint dry completely. Cut in cornices/corners again and
apply a second coat to the ceiling. This is where Modo Pink to
White is invaluable as the second coat will be going pink onto an
already-white surface.

21

Painting interior walls

HOW TO PAINT YOUR INTERIOR WALLS
1 PERSON

What you
will need:
3

SKILL

6 HOURS

- Paint stirrer (drill

attachment or flat
wooden paddle)
- Paintbrush and pail
- Small touch-up
paintbrush

Tint your undercoat to

a lighter shade of the
topcoat you intend using
as it will ensure better
coverage and colour
intensity.

1
1 Prep your wall (clean, mask,
fill, sand and prime).
22

SAFETY GEAR

Dust mask
Safety glasses
Rubber gloves
Overalls

- Paint roller
and tray
- Undercoat
- Interior paint Fired Earth
Ultimate
- Ladder and
extension pole
- Bucket for cleaning
- Painters tape

Fix a dry paint drip by

sanding it smooth, wiping
it with a damp cloth and
touching up.

4 Roller your wall from right to

left (the reverse if you are left

handed) as you are less likely
to accidentally touch and mess
up an area youve already
painted with your hand or
elbow.

2 Cut in and roller on your

undercoat.

5
5 Allow each coat to dry
before applying another coat.
Two coats should be sufficient
for a good finish, but if youre
painting a light colour over
a dark one, more might be
necessary.

7
7 Remove masking. If the paint
starts to lift, lightly score along
the edge of the tape before
continuing. Touch up where
paint was pulled off.

3
3 Using a paintbrush, cut in the
door and window frames, any
fittings, skirting and the ceiling
with your topcoat. Wrap the
brush in clingwrap to prevent it
from drying out before the next
cutting-in session.

6
6 Shine a strong light onto the

wall to show up any missed or

light spots.

Insert the handle of your

roller through a tinfoil or
paper plate to stop paint
dripping and flicking onto
your head when painting
above it.

23

Trim refers to
windows and
window frames
,
doors and door
frames, skirting
boards and deck
rails.

Painting your trim with enamel

Traditionally, woodwork in the home is painted with enamel
because of its glossy finish and ability to withstand knocks. The
end choice of colour and type of paint always lies with you.

What you
will need:

PAINTING A WINDOW

- Drop cloth

Because windows have many surfaces and extra effort is required

to keep the glass clean, painting a window takes longer than you
think. As youll probably want to close your windows at night for
security reasons, start work as early in the day as possible.

HOW TO

1 PERSON

3
SKILL

7 HOURS

- Bucket, sponge
and sugar soap
- Screwdriver
- 38 mm cutting in
brush
- Paint shield
- Bloc-it painter s tape
- Sanding block

SAFETY GEAR

- Fine-grit sandpaper
- Steel wool
- Mineral turpentine
- Primer (if necessary)

1
1 Lay down a drop cloth to
protect your floor.

24

Safety glasses
Latex gloves
Dust mask for sanding

- Modo enamel paint

- Polycell brush cleaner

2
2 Prep your windows and
frames by washing them with
sugar soap. Rinse well and let
dry.

5
6 Apply primer or stain sealer
where necessary to any bare
wood.

7
7 A 38 mm trim or cutting in
brush is a good choice. If you
have wider or thinner surfaces,
then choose a different size. A
cutting in brush with an angled
edge will be best for painting
the parts closest to the glass.

3
3 Use a scraper or sandpaper
to remove any loose paint.

6
6 Dont stir the paint as this

4
4 Remove any fittings and fill
any holes with wood filler.

will break down the non-drip

compound. If the paint has
separated, then stir it very
slowly and stop as soon as its
mixed well.

8
8 If you have casement
windows, open them halfway,
mask the glass with tape and
mask off the walls around the
window.
25

9
9 Paint in the following order:
1 cross-bars and rebates
(where the glass meets the
wood);
2 top and bottom cross-rails;
3 hanging stile and hinge
edge;
4 meeting stile;
5 frame

10
10 Work from the glass
outwards.

12
12 Paint the architraves and the
window frame.

13
13 Prep for a second coat
(optional) by sanding the first
lightly. Dust off or vaccum and
apply the second coat the
same way as the first.

11
The brush strokes should follow
the pattern of the joinery - so
make your vertical strokes cut
off the horizontal ones.
26

11 Do not apply too much paint

in one coat as it will run and
take longer to dry.

You can close windows

when the paint is dry to
the touch by rubbing talc
on the meeting surfaces
or putting cling wrap on
areas likely to stick.

PROTECTING THE GLASS

You can use painters tape, petroleum jelly or lip balm to
protect window glass from paint. Or use a ready-made
masking shield, held in place as you paint. Leave a 2 mm
gap between the frame and mask/shield to allow a tiny
bit of paint onto the glass. This will seal the frame and is a
great trick for external windows as it makes both the paint
and frames last longer.

If your technique with a cutting in brush (an angled brush

designed to give good clean edge if you have a steady
hand) is good, then you might not have to protect the glass
at all. The trick is not to overload the brush with paint and
to ease it towards the glass.

14
14 Remove the painters tape
and scrape off any excess
paint with a scraper.

15
15 When paint is dry, reattach
the fittings.

The parts of window frames

right next to the glass can
suffer from mould. Use a
fungicide wash or bleach
(diluted 1:3 with water)
to get rid of the problem.
Always wear gloves and
safety glasses with these
products.

16
16 If a window sticks at all,
sand where its sticking lightly
until it closes easily.

Remove drips on metal (if

you left your fittings on)
with steel wool dipped
in mineral turpentine.
Alternatively, remove
fittings, put each in a
plastic bag, reattach and
pull the bags tight. Paint
right up to the plastic
and when dry, remove
fittings, discard bags and
reattach fittings.

27

PAINTING A DOOR
Prepare door, doorframe and architrave at the same time. Wash to remove grease (sugar soap is
excellent but must be rinsed off well afterwards). Fill any cracks or nicks with filler, sand level when
dry and prime with bonding liquid. Sand the sheen off the surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper to ensure
the new paint bonds well with them.
Remove any handles and other fittings. Jam the door between two
doorstops to prevent it from closing and trapping you inside.

Always decant oil-based

paint before use, resealing
the tin to prevent whats
left in it from drying out
and debris from dropping
into it.

HOW TO

1 PERSON

SKILL

7 HOURS

What you
will need:
- Modo enamel paint
- Paintbrush
and pail
- Sanding block

1
1 Start with the door (always leave the frame till last), working

from top to bottom and left to right (if you are right-handed). It will
feel easier this way and you shouldnt get as much paint on your
elbow. Paint the door all in one go or it will show where you took
breaks. Paint small sections at a time, blending them well into one
another. Remember to paint the top and bottom of the door - this is
often forgotten.
28

- Fine sandpaper
- Painters tape
- Polycell brush
cleaner
- Plastic sheeting

4
2
2 Load the brush, dipping the bristles about 1/3 of their way into
the paint. Paint three vertical strokes next to each other, leaving a
gap between them just narrower than the brush width.

4 When the brush is almost dry,

go over the section lightly with
vertical strokes, stopping on
an upward stroke (this is called
laying off and will give the
work a quality look).

3
3 Without reloading the brush, work across the strips to fill in the
gaps and smooth the paint.

5 Paint the next section to the

side of the first, working the
new paint into the previous
section. Go right across the
door before moving down, but
make sure the paint you are
working the new section into is
still wet, otherwise the door will
be spoilt by a dry paint line.
29

PAINTING SKIRTING

PAINTING A PANELLED DOOR

2
1 Paint inside
panels first

Cross-bars and
centre struts
moving down

When painting skirting

above a fitted carpet, make
sure you dont load too
much paint onto the brush,
then start from the top and
move slowly down. This
will reduce the chance of
drips getting on the carpet.

3 Vertical
side pieces

Top and
bottom edges

Paint the inside panels first then the cross-bar at the top,
followed by the vertical centre strut and the middle and
bottom cross-bars. Finish with the vertical side pieces.
The order for the frame (not shown) is top cross-bar and
then the two side pieces. Check for drips and runs and
brush them out before the paint dries.
30

Paint your skirting last. First,

vacuum the floor well so
your paintbrush wont pick
up any dirt or fluff from it.
Next, mask the floor, or use
a paint shield as you go,
to protect your flooring or
carpet.

To paint or seal the bottom

edge of a door (without taking
it off its hinges), use a strip of
carpet as a paintbrush. Slip a
sheet of newspaper under the
door, apply paint or sealant
to the pile of the carpet, slide
it under the door and work it
back and forth to coat the bare
wood.

Waterproofing a shower
Sika Cemflex is designed for waterproofing showers, balconies,
retaining walls and fish ponds. You add cement and water to it to
create a waterproofing slurry and then use it in conjunction with a
membrane.

HOW TO

1 PERSON

SKILL

8 HOURS

SAFETY GEAR
Safety glasses
Gloves

What you
will need:

2
1
1 Remove old coating and

prep wall as for painting. It is

important to remove all dirt, oil,
grease and flaking, bubbling or
lifting paint to create a clean,
sound surface.

2 Mix Cemflex with equal

quantities of water. Add the
correct amount of cement
(check the table provided)
and mix to a lump-free slurry.
Use immediately, ensuring the
cement stays in suspension
throughout by mixing it
periodically.

- Bucket
- Block brush
- Trowel
- Black cement
(Portland slag cement)
- Silka Cemflex
- Membrane

31

3
3 Prime the surface by painting
it with a generous amount of
slurry.

5
5 Remove all creases and
bubbles before overcoating
with slurry.

6
6 Allow to dry and then apply
a final coat of slurry.

Clean tools immediately

with warm water.

8 Protect the area from

sunlight and wind for 24 hours
and allow 2 days for the
waterproofing to cure before
use.

TAKE NOTE
4
4 Saturate the membrane with slurry and immediately lay it onto
the surface. (Large pieces of membrane are hard to handle but
small pieces have to be overlapped, so you end up using more
membrane.)
32

Portland blast furnace

cement is not suitable as
a substitute for Portland
slag cement when
mixing Sika Cemflex.

Disclaimer

Gar
den
Edib ing es
se
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Des garde ntials
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Kee ing yo g
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Pai g a lu garde
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Dec ng the lawn
ora
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Pain ting a side of
ti
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fe
Floo ng out ature our ho
me
rin side w
Tilin g solu your all
tio
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hom
e
Sec your w ns
urin all
The g your s
pl
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Ligh umbing ome
tin
bas
ics
Sw g
imm
Cho ing po
osin ol ca
We g the re
r
eke
nd D ight to
IY p ols
roje
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Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. The
information contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIY
projects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibility
for the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of
any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws,
rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safety
precautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturers
instructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may only
be available at selected Builders stores. If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY project
please consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that may
result out of the use of the Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides.

O IN

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