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Table of Contents
Ellesmere Island
In March 2008, six emerging leaders, ages 21–28 from four countries, including
the US, Norway, Great Britain and Canada, joined Will Steger on a 1,400 mile
dogsled expedition across Ellesmere Island, in collaboration with National Geo-
graphic Society, the International Polar Year and the Royal Norwegian Embassy.
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1
Meet the Team
The son of Virgin mogul Sir Richard Branson, Sam grew up splitting his time between
England and the Caribbean and has a great respect for nature and the elements. Sam
has encountered all corners of the world – on a surf board, motocross bike and dog
sled, to name a few – and enjoys finding unique ways to traverse the world and feed his
love for extreme sports.
Trained as a chef at Le Cordon Bleu, Sam also holds a diploma in music. Between
jamming on his guitar, private business ventures and gearing up for the Ellesmere Island
Expedition, one thing is clear: Sam’s sense of adventure knows no bounds.
Released in the Winter of 2007, Sam’s book Arctic Diary journals his experience on the
2007 Global Warming 101 Expedition to Baffin Island, Nunavut Canada.
2
Meet the Expedition Team
In February 2007, he assisted the opening of the world’s first education base in
Antarctica. As a team leader for Robert Swan’s 2041 project, Toby was responsible
for organizing all activities for the 65 expedition members on land and ice. Toby has
circumnavigated most of the North Atlantic by sailboat and last summer he sailed to
Franz Josef Land in the Russian Arctic. When Toby is not traveling he splits his time
between the city of Oslo and Finse in the Norwegian mountains.
3
Meet the Expedition Team
WILL STEGER
A formidable voice calling for understanding and the preservation of
the Arctic and the Earth, Will Steger is best known for his legendary
polar explorations. He has traveled tens of thousands of miles by
kayak and dogsled over 40 years, leading teams on some of the most
significant polar expeditions in history.
Steger led the first confirmed dogsled journey to the North Pole
without re-supply (1986), the 1,600-mile south-north traverse of
Greenland (the longest unsupported dogsled expedition in history
in 1988), the first dogsled traverse of Antarctica (the historic seven
month, 3,471-mile International Trans-Antarctica Expedition in 1989-
90), and the first and only dogsled traverse of the Arctic Ocean from
Russia to Ellesmere Island in Canada (1995).
Steger joins Amelia Earhart, Robert Peary, Roald Amundsen and Jacques-Yves Cousteau in receiving the National
Geographic Society’s prestigious John Oliver La Gorce Medal for “accomplishments in geographic exploration, in the
sciences, and for public service to advance international understanding” in 1995. In 1996 he became the National
Geographic Society’s first Explorer-in-Residence and received the Explorers Club’s Finn Ronne Memorial Award in 1997.
In 2006 Steger joined Neil Armstrong, Jacques-Yves Cousteau and Harrison Ford, in receiving the Lindbergh Award
for “numerous polar expeditions, deep understanding of the environment and efforts to raise awareness of current
environmental threats, especially climate change.”
Steger is the author of four books: Over the Top of the World, Crossing Antarctica, North to the Pole and Saving the
Earth. Read Will Steger’s past expedition journals at www.willsteger.com
4
Ellesmere Island: The Land
Ellesmere Island is the world's tenth largest island and lies within the High Arctic Canadian archipelago. More than 77,600
square kilometers of this island are covered in glaciers and ice sheets. Also, on the northwest coast, approximately 800 km
from the North Pole, lays a series of ice shelves – Alfred Ernest, Milne, Ayles, Petersen, Ward Hunt, and Markham.
EUREKA
Situated on Ellesmere Island, the Eureka weather station was established in 1947 by Americans and Canadians. The
Americans later withdrew in 1972. The weather station is still in operation today, conducting a wide range of studies,
including research on the destruction of the ozone, weather, the aurora phenomena, long range transport of pollutants and
climate change.
GRISE FIORD
Grise Fiord is the only community on Ellesmere Island located in the southern end of the Island and is the furthest north
settlement in North America. Norwegian Polar explorer Otto Sverdrup named it “pig fiord” in Norwegian because the sound
of the walruses that reside there reminded him of pig’s noises. Inuit had passed through the area, but never traditionally
settled. In 1922, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) were the first to set up a permanent post at Craig Harbor, 55
km west of Grise Fiord. As the sovereignty of the High Artic grew questionable, the Canadian government decided to relocate
eight Inuit families (from northern Quebec and Baffin Island) to live and hunt in the harsh climate of Ellesmere Island. They
were placed just outside of Grise Fiord. It wasn’t until the RCMP moved their post to the current location in 1956 that houses
and schools were built in the 1960s and additional Inuit families moved to Grise Fiord, where the community still exists today.
It is home to approximately 150 residents.
ALERT
Established in 1950 as a weather station, Alert is located on the northern tip of Ellesmere Island. The Canadian military
established themselves there shortly after 1958. Then in 1986, an air pollution monitoring lab was established and Alert
became the furthest north permanent research station and the most northerly permanent settlement in the world, home to 70
personnel. The main studies today include an air chemistry observatory and ozone observations.
6
Ellesmere Island: The People
The Explorers
EUROPEAN AND EURO-AMERICAN
Some early expeditions were successful in reaching the High Arctic. The first explorers’ confidence
in western methods and the technology of the day, however, did not prepare them for the harsh
Arctic conditions. The members of George Nares’ 1876 British expedition developed scurvy
and several team members died as they sledged along the northern coast of Ellesmere Island.
Five years later a U.S. Army expedition led by Adolphus Greely made the mistake of relying on
ships to bring needed food and supplies. When cold weather made the ships unable to reach
the expedition, seventeen of the twenty-five team members died of starvation as they tried to
retreat. Later more successful expeditions understood that success in the High Arctic demanded
both respect for the harsh conditions and for the knowledge of the people who had lived there
for thousands of years. Norwegian explorer Otto Sverdrup adopted Inuit and Inughuit (Inuit
of Greenland and Ellesmere Island) technologies to explore the High Arctic. Over four years,
beginning in 1898, he and his team explored and mapped over 100,000 square miles (260,000
square kilometers), an area the size of the state of Colorado, all by dogsled. His maps were so good they were used until the
1950s when aerial photographs replaced them. Robert Peary and his African-American partner Matthew Henson hired sixty-
nine Inughuit men, women and children to help him prepare for his 1909 expedition. Peary and Henson knew their success
would depend on the superiority of Inughuit clothing, dogsledding abilities, and survival experience in the High Arctic. Four of
the Inughuit accompanied Peary and Henson all the way to the Pole. It is important to note that while Europeans and Euro-
Americans have been exploring the High Arctic for only the last 150 years, the Inuit and Inughuit have explored and lived in
the High Arctic for thousands of years.
MODERN EXPLORERS
In 1995 Polar Explorer Will Steger left Siberia, crossed the frozen Arctic Ocean over the North Pole and arrived at northern
Canada’s Ward Hunt Ice Shelf, the largest ice sheet in the Arctic. An ice shelf is a glacier that extends out over the ocean,
floating on the surface of the water. Early explorer Robert Peary first recorded observations of the Ward Hunt ice sheet in
the early 1900s. By comparing Peary’s records to modern observations, Steger knew that the ice sheet had been shrinking. In
2002 the Ward Hunt ice sheet broke apart. Steger and other explorers witness these changes and help draw public attention
to the changing climate of the polar regions. Steger’s 2008 expedition to the High Arctic focused attention on the remnants
of Ellesmere Island’s Ayles Ice Shelf which broke apart in 2005. Pieces of what was once the Ayles Ice Shelf are now floating
down the coast of Ellesmere Island.
7
Expedition Dispatches
Expedition Day: 23
Distance traveled: 21.3 Km / 13.2 mi
Position. N 78° 20’ W 094° 42’
Today was a short day but it would be difficult to convince my muscles of that. With
fully loaded sleds it is difficult to make good distance and even more difficult to
move the sleds when they get stuck on ice ridges. So far we have been lucky, we
have not encountered rubble ice, for if we did at our current weight it could be
crushing to the spirits of our dogs and our team members. Luckily for both we spent
the last two days resting.
Another important aspect of taking a rest day is the ability to set up the our two
Brunton solar panels in the more powerful noon sun light. Both panels under ideal
conditions are capable of providing 104 watts of power, just enough power to
run a large incandescent light bulb, or about enough power to run 6 compact florescent
light bulbs. For us this power is stored in two battery packs so that we can use the energy to charge a variety of small
electrical appliances when it suits our needs. Our list of electronics includes 2 iPaq PDA’s , 4 iridium satellite phones, 2
video cameras, 3 photography cameras and 3 iPod shuffles. It’s a lot to charge, but our system is well capable of handling
the load.
Photo-voltaic cells have been in existence for a long time, although in their infancy they rarely left the laboratory as they
were expensive to make and were inefficient compared to other sources of electricity. It was only later when NASA and
other space programs were interested in long-term power supplies that solar was taken seriously and developed into
an expensive but useful technology. Later during the oil crisis in the 70s solar was again experimented with, yielding
higher efficiency and lower cost of
production. Nonetheless, even today
solar is one of the most expensive
forms of renewable energies, and is
generally only used in areas of isolation
far from a grid or where maintenance
cost would be high. Promising new
technologies such as nano-tube tech,
and more efficient production methods
may make photo-voltaic electricity an
important part of our future.
15
Expedition Dispatches
Heading South
Wednesday, 14 May 2008 00:00
Expedition Day: 46
Position: N 80° 57’ W 091° 28’
Distance traveled: 22.4 km / 14 mi
With such an international team, it has been great to share our traditions. Both Ben and Will are from the states. Toby and
Sigrid are our two Norwegian team members who have been teaching us a new Norwegian word every day. Sam is from
England and Eric and I are both Canadian.
With such an international team, it’s great to be traveling together towards a single goal. On this expedition our goal is to
travel through the Arctic to eyewitness the effects of climate change first hand and share our experiences with our peers.
One thing we’ve learned is that the Arctic is a fragile and beautiful ecosystem that we must communally work together to
preserve it!
Sarah
20
Expedition Dispatches
Muskox!
Sunday, 18 May 2008 00:00
Expedition Day: 49
Position: N 80° 32’ W 89° 35’
It seems impossible to really capture this place with a camera, or even with words
for that matter. No matter how sophisticated the equipment we carry is, it cannot
capture the feeling of sitting alone atop an iceberg in the frozen sea listening to
the distant howls of wolves. The howls set our dogs into their own symphony and
the silence of the sea ice is broken.
We decided to make today a short travel day, not for lack of energy or difficulties, but simply because the region we just entered is by far the best
environment to see wildlife. In the shadow of an iceberg we made camp, and set to getting ready for a day in the mountains. We abandoned the skis
because the snow on the land is sparse, and we are soon satisfying our urge to explore this land in more detail. Until now I have seen little wildlife and I
had no opportunities to get any worthwhile photos of what I did see. That far I’ve seen a few lemmings and a snow bunting, a sparrow sized arctic bird.
Only 45 minutes of hiking into the steeper hills and we found a herd of muskox with 14 members, a number of those being calves. The muskox seem to
have been transported straight from the ice age with their curled horns and powerful bodies. It seems strange to me that they are close relatives of the
common mountain goats I see often in the Colorado Rockies because their character is so foreign to me.
A quick look around makes me really wonder about how these animals manage to survive here, as specialized as they are. Even lichens seem to have
trouble growing on the rocks, and grass is nowhere to be found. The muskox prefer a type of willow that stays close to the ground, but I didn’t even
see this anywhere. This only deepened my respect for these animals, then I think of how they manage to survive through the dark Arctic winters with
-40°F temperatures and their past issues with over hunting and dwindling populations. How then will these creatures manage when global warming
takes its toll? Just today Will who has been coming to the Arctic for years mentioned that he’d never seen the oncoming spring take hold so early. We
are experiencing June weather in May! With the early snow melt, the black cliffs of Ellesmere Island are exposed and reflect even more sun, speeding the
thaw. All around us patches of black dust blown in by the wind have absorbed the sun’s heat and sunk deep into the snow and ice. We are forced now
to travel on the rough sea ice because the land holds so little snow. This cycle has continued to escalate over the years, and we now can hardly argue
that we are not causing drastic changes to this environment, and to those majestic creatures that inhabit this harsh landscape and nowhere else.
Ben
Additional Info:
THE MUSKOX
The Muskox (Ovibos moschatus) is an arctic mammal of the Bovidae family, noted for its thick coat and for the strong odor emitted by males, from which
its name derives.
Muskoxen are more closely related to sheep and goats than to oxen, but are in their own genus, Ovibos. Both sexes have long curved horns. Muskoxen
are usually around 2.5 m (8.2 ft) long and 1.4 m (4.6 feet) high at the shoulder. Adults usually weigh at least 200 kg (440 lb) and can exceed 400 kg
(880 lb). Their coat, a mix of black, gray, and brown, includes long guard hairs that reach almost to the ground.
During the summer, muskoxen live in wet areas, such as river valleys, moving to higher elevations in the winter to avoid deep snow. They graze on
grasses, reeds, sedges, and other ground plants, digging through snow in the winter to reach their food.
Muskoxen are social and live in herds, usually of around 10–20 animals, but sometimes over 400.
Muskoxen have a distinctive defensive behavior: when the herd is threatened, the bulls and cows will face outward to form a stationary ring around the
calves. This is an effective defense against predators such as wolves, but makes them an easy target for human hunters.
21
Expedition Dispatches
Probably one of the most remarkable moments of this expedition was when we returned and had a chance to talk with
Al Gore and scientists about our eyewitness experience. After 43 days of rough ice, which prevented us from reaching
the northern coast of Ellesmere to visit the last remnants of the last ice age, we learned that we actually were traveling
through the ruins of the summer sea ice from the Arctic Ocean! The conditions we faced from Resolute to the north shore
of Axel Heiberg refers to the transition of the Arctic Ocean from multiyear ice to new ice. The summer break-up of the
Arctic Ocean sea ice drifted to this area and clogged up our route.
The total coverage area of the multiyear ice of the Arctic Ocean has reduced over 10 years, from 65% to approximately
28%. Although the Arctic Ocean freezes up in the winter, the multi-year ice is the back-bone of the summer sea ice, and
when this diminishes, as it has been over the last 10 years, the summer melt will be much quicker and dramatic. Last year
alone the Arctic Ocean lost up to 50% of the total surface ice - changing the reflectivity of the top of the globe - with
more of the sun’s energy being absorbed by the darker ocean (this is referred to as a reverse albedo affect). As a result,
the Arctic Ocean warmed an astounding 3 degrees Celsius last summer. This warming of the ocean is called “background
warming.” This helped break up the multiyear ice. In addition, this background warming scientists estimated caused one
meter of ice to melt on the Arctic Ocean. The domino effect is expected to continue this summer.
As we travel across Greenland in a few weeks as training for next year, we will stay tuned to this summer’s melt.
27
Expedition Dispatches
The expedition dispatches in this Baffin Island 2007 supplement were written
by Abby Fenton, Elizabeth Andre and Nancy Moundalexis and were selected
to complement the Global Warming 101 lesson plans. For a complete archive
of expedition dispatches, audio and video from Baffin Island 2007, as well as a
guide to how to use the dispatches with the lesson plans, go to:
www.globalwarming101.com.
From February through May 2007, explorers Will Steger and John Stetson, and
educators Elizabeth Andre and Abby Fenton joined three Inuit hunters on a
1200-mile, four-month-long dogsled expedition across the Canadian Arctic’s
Baffin Island. The expedition traveled with Inuit dog teams over traditional
hunting paths, up frozen rivers, through steep-sided fjords, over glaciers and ice
caps, and across the sea ice and visited some of the most remote Inuit villages of
the world.
Each day, the team used innovative technologies to post video, images, sounds
and text to the www.globalwarming101.com web site, and communicated
with online participants around the world. Students and teachers integrated the
educational curriculum components developed by the team into their course-
work, and participated in the expedition through research and forum discus-
sion. During the week-long visits to each Inuit village, the team listened to and
documented the Inuit’s experience with climate change. These collected images,
sounds and stories illustrate the dramatic climate-related changes happening in
the Arctic: starving polar bears, retreating pack ice, melting glaciers, disrupted
hunting and traveling, and the unraveling of a traditional way of life.
1
The Expedition Route
On February 24th 2007, the expedition team left from Iqaluit, Baffin Island, the
capital of Nunavut, for a 1200-mile journey. Following the frozen McKeand River
over the Hall Peninsula, the expedition team crossed the Cumberland Sound
to the community of Pangnirtung. The expedition spent one week in each
of the five communities along the way and documented the native people’s
observations of the rapidly changing climate. The emphasis was on interviewing
the elders -- hearing their stories of the past and their concerns for the future.
These elders, many of whom are in their eighties, remember the days before
the influence of western culture on their society, and they provide an important
historical perspective to our changing times and climate. It is important to
document the stories of their era before it vanishes.
The varied topography of the route offered some of the best Arctic
photographic and documentary opportunities of North America. Dog teams and
other hunters from villages along the way joined the expedition en-route. Once
across the mountains, the expedition traveled on the sea ice along the Atlantic
side of Baffin Island. There they visited
Qikiqtarjuaq (formerly known as Broughton
Island) and Clyde River, two of the most
remote communities in North America. These
villages rely on the sea ice to obtain their
food, and the dramatic shortening of the
ARCTIC BAY winter season is having a profound effect
on their way of life. Leaving Clyde River, the
expedition traveled west to cross the rugged
mountains of Baffin Island.
Next, the expedition route took the team
along the southern edge of the Barnes
Ice Cap, a remnant of the past Ice Age.
Upon reaching the east coast of Baffin the
expedition crossed the pack ice of the Foxe
HALL BEACH Basin to reach the community of Iglulik, the
cultural center and ancestral home for the
hunters and dogs of the Canadian Inuit.
Their people settled in Iglulik 2000 years
ago and, until recently, the currents that
flow from the Hudson Bay to Lancaster
Sound have provided ample hunting.
The cold, fifty-below winter freezes the
moving water solid for eight months
of the year, but global warming has
disrupted these weather patterns and,
by extension, the entire Inuit way of life.
The recent warming has reduced their
hunting season by fifty percent, and the
people say that, if these were traditional
times, there would be great starvation.
l Warming 101
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2
Meet the Expedition Team
The Global Warming 101 Expedition included educators and explorers - Will Steger led the team in this expedition across
Baffin Island, an area he has gotten to know over his years of exploring the Arctic. John Stetson, Expedition Manager,
brought years of experience working with Steger and with sled dogs in various areas of the Canadian Arctic. Education
coordinators, Elizabeth Andre and Abby Fenton, joined the team from Voyageur Outward Bound School, having led
dogsledding and experiential/adventure learning programs for several years.
3
Meet the Expedition Team
Stetson has traveled over 80,000 miles by dog team over the last 20 years,
primarily in the Arctic and sub-Arctic regions. Since 1986, Stetson has been
highly involved with sled dogs as an educator, explorer/adventurer and as a
professional racer. He has been a leader of several world-class expeditions, a
team member on numerous others, in addition to being a consultant and dog
trainer for many expeditions.
Stetson is a highly regarded and gifted sled dog trainer. His performance sled
dogs have secured many top finishes in races across North America, including
Championships in the grueling Hudson Bay Quest and the prestigious John
Beargrease Mid-distance Race.
From 1986 to 1990 Stetson was the training and logistics director for the historic 1990 Trans-
Antarctica Expedition. In 1993 Stetson founded Epic Adventures in Duluth, MN. Epic Adventures is an experiential
education organization which uses sled dogs to educate and inspire people of all ages and abilities. Epic has provided
incredible experiences for thousands. Stetson’s love of the Arctic and in its inhabitants led him to found Hudson Bay
Adventures in 1995. Located in Churchill, Manitoba, on the coast of Hudson Bay, Hudson Bay Adventures has educated
thousands of people on the use of sled dogs and their historical place in the Arctic.
Stetson is married to his partner and the love of his life Shelly Stetson and they have a wonderful son -- Nelson.
4
Meet the Expedition Team
Nancy hails from King George, Virginia. Her love for nature and adventure grew
out of her time at a science-based Nature Camp where she was a camper and
counselor. After graduating from The College of William and Mary with a degree in
Environmental Geology, Nancy served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Togo, West Africa,
working with sustainable agriculture and forestry for two years in a little village named
Aledjo Kadara. She worked as a winemaker near her hometown for two years at
Ingleside Winery and then found her way to Minnesota where she instructed canoeing
and dogsledding for Outward Bound courses over a period of four years. Now, Nancy
spends her summers working in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness for the
Forest Service and runs sled dogs in the winter.
5
Inuit Expedition Team Members
Lukie was born in 1942 and spent his young years at an outpost camp
outside of Iglulik. He is a hunter and has held a variety of different jobs
over the years. Lukie is a celebrated carver and has been a member of
the Canadian Rangers for 15 years. He has spent more than 30 years
running dogs and brings a lot of knowledge of Inuit traditional ways to
the expedition team. Lukie lives in Iglulik with his wife Marie and has nine
children.
6
The Expedition Dogs
Sled dogs are amazing creatures! They have been used as pulling animals for many hundreds of years in the north.
Until the advent of the snowmobile in the 1950’s, sled dogs were the primary means of travel in the snowy parts of the
world. Traditionally, long-haired huskies were used as sled dogs but these days you may see any type of dog used to pull
passengers on sleds, skis, skates, or bikes.
Will Steger has been training sled dogs for educational arctic expeditions at the Homestead Base Camp since 1974. As
with previous expeditions, the dogs that are used for Global Warming 101 Expeditions are from one of three categories:
CANADIAN HUSKY
The Canadian Husky, also known as the Canadian Eskimo dog or the Canadian Inuit dog, is a registered pure-breed dog.
These dogs are incredibly durable and hardy. They are not very fast but they have evolved to survive the extremely brutal
conditions on the ice, very much like the polar bear or the arctic wolf. These dogs average about 80 pounds.
ALASKAN HUSKY
The Alaskan Husky is 20 percent lighter than the Canadian Husky and has been bred to be much faster and have a thinner
coat. They are not considered to be a pure breed since there have been a variety of other types of dogs bred into their
lineage.
POLAR HUSKY
The Steger Polar Husky is a husky blend. In the 1970’s, Will Steger began combining Alaskan and Canadian Huskies with
the vision of creating an extremely powerful dog that has the hardiness of the Canadian with a bit more speed. These
dogs are usually bigger and have longer legs than either of the other types of huskies.
11
Baffin Island: The People
“Global warming is getting stronger every year. In the past, when lakes freeze over with ice some people would be jigging for fish. Now
it takes longer for lakes to freeze. There used to be ice that never melted. Now there are more of them melting due to earth warming
up. It is not like it used to be.” –Pauloosie Nakoolak, Coral Harbour (Northwest Territories, Canada)
“It’s usually in springtime before the ice breaks up that a seal spends time basking on the ice. At that time they are going through the
moulting stage. But if the ice breaks up early, then the moulting is incomplete; therefore the hair will be old and brownish in colour. I
will know right away that the moulting phase was disrupted by early ice breakup.” –Inusiq Nasalik, Pangnirtung (Baffin Island, Canada)
“Right now the weather is unpredictable. In the older days, the elders used to predict the weather and they were always right, but right
now, when they try to predict the weather, it’s always something different.” –Z. Aqqiaruq, Iglulik (Baffin Island, Canada)
“Long ago, there was always ice all summer. You would see the [multiyear ice] all summer. Ice was moving back and forth this time
of year. Now, no ice. Should be [multiyear]. You used to see that old ice coming from the west side of Sachs. No more. Now between
Victoria Island and Banks Island, there is open water. Shouldn’t be that way.” –Frank Kudlak, Sachs Harbour (Northwest Territories,
Canada)
“When there is lots of ice, you don’t worry too much about storms. You get out there and travel in between the ice [floes]. But last few
years there has been no ice. So if it storms, you can’t get out…” –Andy Carpenter, Sachs Harbour (Northwest Territories, Canada)
18
Expedition Dispatches
Jonah also shared observations of a suffering polar bear population. In the past five years he reported an increasing of
bear encounters near town. Hungry and on the hunt for food, these bears create a nuisance and can often be quite
dangerous. As a result, many of these bears end up being shot in self defense. Jonah has also observed an increasing
number of underweight polar bears, and reported two recent instances when dead bears where that were very skinny
when they died.
Other members of the HTA shared stories of unusual bird migrations. Canadian geese, for example, have made a dramatic
increase in the past 5 years. The hunters have noticed their impact on other native bird populations, forcing them out of
traditional nesting areas. They also reported increased sightings of marine animals such as dolphins and sea lions, common
down south but unusual this far north. They also reported seeing eider ducks overwintering further north than usual.
At the end of the meeting we gathered around the map to gather valuable local knowledge of the route to Clyde River.
The group cautioned us against polar bears and slushy ice, and recommended travel on the land side of the ice floe
edge. They pointed out several HTA cabins along the way, and suggested several short cuts to make our travel easier. Levi
Nutaralik ended the meeting by presenting each of us with a knife engraved on the side with “Qikiqtarjuaq HTA”.
The people of Qik continue to be gracious and welcoming, willing to share their observations from the land, and eager to
make us feel at home in their remote village. Full of fresh meat and fish, local stories, tea, and bannock, we certainly feel
thankful for their hospitality and kindness.
Abby
33
Expedition Dispatches
Kids in Qikiqtarjuaq know about global warming. At Inuksuit School they are learning about the impact of pollution
in the south on their Arctic homeland. They are also learning about the impact of their own actions on the immediate
environment and what they can do to make a difference. Walking through the hallways of the small school, we were
struck by the student art work and posters up on the walls. Below is a photo gallery of their work
34
Expedition Dispatches
The weather stormed and blew outside, but inside Quluaq School we were
warm and dry. Students grades 3-12 gathered to hear stories and film from our
expedition and learn more about global warming.
While Elizabeth and I opened and closed the presentation, Theo, Simon, and
Lukie rose to the occasion, describing the mission of the expedition from the
Inuit perspective. The three addressed the students in Inuktitut, describing some
of the changes they had observed in our travels so far and the implications
these changes have for traditional Inuit culture. They also talked of the joys and
challenges of travel on the land, and the thrill of running a dog team in traditional Inuit fashion. Will shared stories from
his travels in the polar regions and talked about the power of the Inuit voice to affect environmental policy in the U.S, and
world-wide.
Quluaq School teachers and staff are planning an exciting series of events for Earth Day, to be celebrated in Clyde River on
Monday, April 23rd. Ideas for the day include environmental games, poetry for the earth, and 101 things Clyde River kids
can do to slow global warming. Quluaq students are also invited to make a statement on global warming in the form of
an art piece, to be presented by Will Steger and Theo Ikumaaq to the U.S. Senate in June 2007.
Abby
36
Expedition Dispatches
Temperature: 12 F/ -11 C
Wind: 20 MPH/ 32 KPH
Cloud Cover: High clouds, partly sunny
Sunrise: 4:33 am
Sunset: 10:34 pm
The Student’s at Quluaq School in Clyde River have something to say to the world: “We love our land!”. This was
evident in the artwork made by 2nd and 4th grade students, who drew pictures of their homeland and native
traditions during our visit to the school today. Included in the drawings were pictures of igloos, dogsleds, kayaks,
tents and inuksuks, as well as images from the Arctic landscape. We spent the morning at the school, sharing more
stories from the expedition and discussing global warming. When asked to make a statement about global warming
and their Arctic home, the students responded with enthusiasm. We plan to deliver several of their drawings to the
U.S. Senate during our presentation in July.
We visited with a group of twenty high school students earlier in the morning, who
also had a message to deliver. Several students presented the GW101 expedition with
a list of “Clyde River’s 101 Solutions to Pollution for our Earth”. The students, who
spent the week preparing the list, read each one of the solutions out loud in English
and Inuktitut. The list was presented to us in the form of a diploma tied with a red
ribbon. Mixed in with a call to use alternative energy sources and create less waste,
were several solutions unique to an Inuit perspective:
The 101st solution on the list was a universal message for people around the globe: “Educate yourself...read as
much as you can on global warming and share with your children...for their future...”. We hope this list will provide
an inspiration, for classrooms, families and people everywhere, to think of solutions to global warming and steps
that can be taken on a local level.
Clyde River, as a whole, has also made a statement of their love for the land during our time here. Instead of
celebrating Earth Day, the community decided to celebrate Earth Week, hosting a variety of events around town.
Simon took third place in a traditional clothing fashion show and came in first place with Lukie in an igloo building
contest. There was snow carving on the ice yesterday afternoon and an Earth Day cake decorating contest last night.
The week culminates in a community feast and celebration this evening.
Our time here has been a pleasure and we will miss the kind and generous people we have come to know over the
past 12 days. We would like to thank the Hamlet Office and community members for all of the events planned this
week and for their flexibility in our ever changing schedule. We will remember Clyde for its rich and vibrant tradition
as well as its strong and committed vision for the future. Our expedition leaves tomorrow morning and we hope that
several of the local dog teamers will follow us out.
Abby 37
Expedition Dispatches
Sunburns
Monday, 07 May 2007
Each one of us has his or her own methods for trying to protect our skin. Stetson, Abby and I slather on the zinc oxide sunblock and don
baseball caps and bandanas. We joke that with the thick white paste on our faces we look a bit like geishas or clowns. One day when my zinc
layer was especially thick, Stetson asked if I was trying to scare away the polar bears.
Will covers up with his hood and a leather “beak” that attaches to the bridge of his sunglasses and covers his nose and cheeks. The famous
mountaineer Reinhold Messner gave the beak to Will when they were both preparing for expeditions in Antarctica in 1990.
Ed Viesturs’ preferred method for beating the sun is to wear a baseball cap, glacier glasses and a hood. It’s difficult to stay cool enough with a
hood up, however, when the sun is warm and you’re exercising.
Even with our vigilance against the UV rays, our skin is taking a beating. The other day when I finally crawled inside the shelter of my tent, I
looked at my face in the mirror on my compass and saw, much to my horror, that the skin was flaking off in sheets.
It’s not just our skin that is taking a beating. Otto, one of the cameramen, left his sunglasses off for too long the other day and went snow-
blind, a painful but temporary condition. He had to spend the next day inside his tent with his eyes closed, waiting for his eyes to repair
themselves.
Our red sled bag is bleaching out to a yellowish-orange and our ball caps are fading.
It’s not just the snow and the 24-hour daylight that makes us vulnerable here in the Arctic. The ozone layer is thinner here in the Arctic than it is
at lower latitudes. The thinned ozone layer lets through more UV radiation than you would get further south.
Although many people confuse the two issues, global warming and the ozone hole are separate issues. Stratospheric ozone thinning was
caused by chlorofluorocarbons that are now banned. The ozone layer is beginning to repair itself. Here in the Arctic, however, the ozone layer is
slower to recover. This is due in part to the effect of global warming on stratospheric temperatures.
During the spring the ozone layer is at its thinnest so we, along with the other living things in the Arctic, are exposed to the greatest amount
of UV radiation. For plants and animals, the spring is also the time in their life cycles where they are the most vulnerable to damage from UV
radiation.
So, although we may look ridiculous, we will keep covering ourselves up with sunblock, hats, beaks and hoods.
Elizabeth 43
Expedition Dispatches
Temperature: 10 F/ -12 C
Wind: 9 mph/ 15 kph
Cloud cover: Clear blue skies
Sunrise: 2:46 am
Sunset: 12:08 am
The schools in Iglulik, Nunavut are full of life and energy. The walls are decorated with student artwork, bright posters,
and historic photos from the community. Sprinkled throughout both schools are handmade signs welcoming the Global
Warming 101 Expedition Team back home. While Iglulik isn’t home for all of us, the warm welcome we continue to
experience makes it feel like it could be. Students greet us with smiles and waves at every turn.
The team came together for one last hurrah this morning to share our experiences with the elementary and high school
students in town. Both schools have been actively following the expedition online and students were excited to hear our
stories. They were also excited to see the first official screening (fresh from Jerry’s computer) of the video from our arrival
into Iglulik. Students shrieked and applauded as they saw themselves or people they recognized on film. The pride was
palpable during both presentations, in both the students and our Inuit team members, as Simon, Lukie, and Theo spoke
in front of the crowd. While we all felt like stars in front of our young fans, it is clearly these three men who are the real
heroes in the eyes of their community (and rightly so!).
The students did a beautiful job decorating the gym for our arrival. Their posters and artwork make a strong statement
about their commitment to fight global warming. We thought we would pass their message on to you, in hopes that you
might be inspired by their work as well. We hope that people all over the world will heed the message from the young
people of the Arctic: “Respect our earth!”
Abby
44
Expedition Dispatches
The Baffin Island Expedition is complete, but the lessons learned and Inuit voices are just beginning to be
reflected upon and shared. We have returned to Minnesota and to a new season - May in Minnesota is
green and lush; lilacs bloom and spill over back yard fences and maples, elms and birches show off their
brand new leaves. Up on Baffin Island it is spring too; snow is melting off the black rocks, ice is opening
up on the long rivers that run down from the interior, young seals are learning to swim and polar bears
are mating.
The Arctic, though beautiful beyond words, is an unforgiving host. Those who wish to live and thrive there must learn to adapt as a means of survival.
We came to listen to the voice of the Inuit people. Of course, as in any culture, there are a million voices each one with its own unique perspective on
the world. Despite differing perspectives, however, we did hear common threads.
We heard over and over again, in each community, a concern for global warming and the changing Arctic environment. We heard much evidence of this
change, of new species migrating north, of warming oceans and melting sea ice, and of the impact this has on the delicately balanced Arctic ecosystem.
We learned more about traditional Inuit culture, how intricately it has been woven into the land, and visa versa, over thousands of years. We also learned
more about contemporary Inuit culture, how it is a blend of the old ways and of the new. We quickly saw how the family is the center of life and the
source from which people gain strength. For an outsider it is hard to tell where one Inuit family ends and another begins. In the small communities
families join together to hunt, socialize, celebrate and support each other in the face of hardship.
Most of all, we learned about the Inuit spirit of resiliency and adaptation. When we asked about Inuit cultural survival in the face of global warming, we
heard the same reply time and time again: that the Inuit will continue to adapt as they always have. The question many Inuit asked us in return, can the
rest of us adapt?
There are technologies and strategies available to slow global warming. All we need is enough willpower as a collective community of humans to
make some changes. Part of what makes Inuit communities so strong is the unavoidable knowledge that they must work together to survive in a harsh
environment and that, without roads out of their communities, the solutions to challenges must come from within. They realize that their survival
depends on community and cooperation. They maintain their care and concern for community in spite of differences. This can be a model for the rest of
us.
This vision of strong local communities working in harmony with local environments is a vision that could inspire us. A beautiful alternative to our current
way of doing things could give us the motivation we need to make changes. A desirable goal for which to strive could turn global warming from a
depressing and overwhelming problem into an opportunity for collective action towards more beautiful, vibrant and diverse “local” communities.
The focus on community and connecting people is integral to our work, from expeditions to education, to the way in which we go about slowing global
warming; we believe that global warming will be slowed by people and organizations taking collective action. We believe that dramatic change in
personal and societal responsibility requires perseverance, courage, tenacity --the qualities of a polar explorer. We believe that by connecting people to
people, place to place, spirit to spirit, we can mobilize and act to make a difference.
We hope you continue to join us on online - we will continue to share the credibility and power of the eyewitness voice from varying perspectives. We
intend to share the stories of educators, students, individuals, and business leaders who are taking local action to inspire and catalyze individual and
collective leadership to achieve the changes we need.
We sincerely thank you for your interest and support and for following the Baffin Island Expedition. Please continue to visit www.globalwarming101.com
to share your thoughts, discoveries and actions to slow global warming.
Climate change is a huge challenge. Together, however, we can slow it. In the process we can develop better communities and more fulfilling
connections with the natural world. This is truly exciting. 45