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Summer Slice

By Cassandra Dominick

Materials:

US Size 0 (2mm) (or preferred


size up to US 3) 40 circular
Two balls Classic Elite Yarns
Summer Sox in Coral (MC), and
one ball in Seagrass (CC) (40%
cotton, 40% superwash merino,
20% nylon; 175 yds)
stitch markers
yarn needle

Gauge:
7-9 sts to an inch in stockinette
stitch

Size:
Custom

Abbreviations:
ssk: slip two stitches knitwise one at a
time, knit (this is a left-leaning
decrease)
k2tog: knit two sts together (this is a
right-leaning decrease)
sl 1: slip 1
pm: place marker
M1R: This is a lifted bar increase. Lift the
bar between the stitches from the
back with the left needle. Knit
this new st through the front
loop. This will twist the stitch and
make it invisibly blend with the
others.
M1L: Lift the bar between the stitches
from the front with the left
needle. Knit new st through the
back loop, twisting the stitch as
you knit it.
p2tog: purl two stitches together

knitthehellout.com

Cassandra Dominick 2011

Notes:

Many people have a specific needle size they like for socks.
I have a loose tension, so I knit on 2mm needles for
sturdier socks. You may choose your favorite size, since the
custom fit process is more important than actual gauge.
You can try your sock on as you knit it. You may increase
on the instep or sole edges as you like if the gusset or calves
feel tight and the center lace pattern will not be disrupted.
For this pattern you customize the size as you go. You end
toe increases when the toe barely touches the pinkie toe and
you begin the heel flap when the instep of the sock touches
the ankle bone. If you are making these for another person,
you should measure the total foot length, length to ankle
bone from toe, and foot circumference. The circumference
of the knitted sock should be about -1 inch less than the
actual foot circumference to keep the sock from sagging.
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Summer Slice
Cast on:
Cast on 15 sts on each needle with CC (30 total) using the toe-up cast on method of your choice. I
recommend Judys Magic Cast On found here: http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html
After you cast on for the first toe, slide the stitches onto the cable and cast on for the second toe in the same
way. You will knit into the first side normally, but will knit into the second side through the back loop
since the cast on will make the second side of stitches twisted. You do this only on the first round. Pm at the
beginning of the round. You should mark the first st, rather than placing the marker on the needle, as it will
slide off.
Knit two rounds. On the first round I like to knit my tail into my stitches. This is optional, but makes for
less finishing work later.
Begin increases. You will be increasing every other round on both sides of the toes. The increases will be
mirrored M1R and M1L. You will increase until the toe sections are wide enough to cover your toes and just
barely touching the top of your pinkie toe. The sock will stretch as you wear it, so a snug fit is good at first.
If you have a stitch count you have used in other socks that works well for your foot size, feel free to
increase to a number close to that size.
On an increase round: k1, M1R, k till one before the end, M1L, k1
When the toes are wide enough to barely cover the top of pinkie toes finish the round then change to MC.
Knit 3 rounds, then begin lace pattern over the center 23 sts. You may wish to place markers on both sides
of the 23 center stitches. Remember, the amount of stitches on your instep varies depending on your custom
fit. For example, if you have 66 total stiches, and 33 on your instep, there will be 5 sts on either side that are
not part of the lace pattern. Continue the lace pattern on the instep until the sock reaches the ankle. You
may increase evenly outside of the lace stitches as necessary for a good fit. Note where you are in the lace
pattern, since you will not be returning to the instep until the heel flap is done.

Lace:

The lace pattern is repeated only on the instep (top) side of the sock. The lace pattern is a 12-row repeat.
R1:
R2:
R3:
R4:
R5:
R6:
R7:
R8:
R9:
R10-12:

K8, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k8.


K7, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k7.
K6, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k6.
K5, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k5.
K4, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k4.
K3, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k4, ssk, k3.
K2, k2tog, k3, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k3, ssk, k2.
K1, k2tog, k5, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k5, ssk, k1.
K2tog, k4, yo, k5, p1, k5, yo, k4, ssk.
K11, p1, k11.

knitthehellout.com

Cassandra
Dominick 2011

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Summer Slice
Heel:

To make the heel flap, you will cease knitting on the instep side and will knit back and forth on both soles to
make the heel flaps. You will repeat the next two rows until the flap is about inch from the end of your
foot. Try the sock on as you go to check the length. End the repeats with a purl row.
Row 1: Sl 1 knitwise (as if to knit), *k1, sl 1 st purlwise (as if to purl), repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. Repeat
for the second sock sole.
Row 2: Sl 1 st purlwise, purl to end. Repeat for second sock sole.
When your heel flap is in shorter than the total sock length, you will do the heel turn. The heel turn is
made with short rows and now you will work on only one sock at a time. The second sock rests on the
cable of the needle. To make the heel turn, first place markers on either side of the 11 center sts.
Row 1: Sl 1 st knitwise, *k1, sl 1 st purlwise, repeat from * to second marker, remove marker, ssk, k1. Turn
work.
Row 2: Sl 1 st purlwise, p to remaining marker, remove marker, p2tog, pl. Turn work.
Row 3: S1 1 st knitwise, work in k1, sl 1 st purlwise pattern to the stitch before the gap created by the p2tog
in the previous row. Ssk the st before and after the gap to close the gap. K1. Turn work.
Row 4: Sl 1 st purlwise, purl to the st before the gap, p2tog the st before the gap with the st after the gap,
k1. Turn work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have completed the short rows and no stitches remain outside of the markers.
This is the end of the first sock heel turn. Place a marker on the left corner of the back heel (as worn). Using
the working yarn, pick up and knit the selvedge stitches on the left side (as worn) of the heel flap. The
slipped stitches that you made as you knit the flap are easy stitches to pick up. Make note of how many
stitches you pick up. This number should be the same on each side of the heel flaps for consistency
in size. To prevent a hole at the corner of the gusset next to the instep, knit one extra stitch next to the
instep through the center of a corner st.
Let this first heel flap and partial gusset rest on the needle as you repeat the heel turn and left gusset pick up
on your second sock in the same way. When the second sock is finished, knit across the instep of both
socks at the appropriate row in the lace pattern. When you have knit across both insteps, pick up
selvedge sts and knit along the right side (as worn) of the gusset of the sock you just knit the instep of (the
first sock you turned the heel of), remembering to add an extra st to prevent a hole near the instep. When
you have picked up the gusset sts, pm on the right (as worn) corner of the back heel. Knit across the back
heel sts of the first sock. Sl m and knit the left gusset sts.
From this point forward, you will be alternating a knit round with a sl st pattern (k1, sl 1 purlwise)
pattern on every other row between the markers that designate the back of the heel. The plain knit
round takes the place of the purl round that was done on the heel flap to maintain the pattern.
Continue the sl st heel through the gusset decreases, and as long as you like after. It provides a
sturdier point of contact for shoe rubbing.

knitthehellout.com

Cassandra
Dominick 2011

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Summer Slice
Move to the second sock. The working yarn should be at the right corner of the instep. Knit up the extra st,
then pick up and knit the selvedge sts. Pm on the right (as worn) corner of the back heel. You should now
have all of the heel, gusset, and instep sts on your needles. Complete the round by knitting across the heel
sts, sl m, and knit the left gusset sts. Work across the instep of both socks.
Decreases:
Beginning at the corner of the right (as worn) gusset on a new round, k1, ssk, k to marker, work across heel
sts in the sl st pattern to the second marker, sl m, k to last 3 gusset sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat for second sock.
Knit across instep in lace pattern for both socks. You have finished one decrease round. Decrease twice
more, then begin decreasing only every other round. Continue until the number of sts on the back of the leg
matches the number of sts on the front of the leg.
Leg:
When you have finished your gusset decreases, you may want to continue the sl st pattern until you finish a
lace repeat on the front of the leg, then begin a new repeat on both sides of the leg and cease making the sl
st heel thickness on the back. If you find it helpful, mark both sides of the 23 center sts on the back of the
leg. Continue in pattern until you are almost out of the MC (and finishing a lace repeat) or until the socks
are about 1.5 inches shorter than you prefer for the total cuff length. Switch to CC and knit in 1x1 twisted
rib (*k1 through the back loop, p1) until your cuff is about 1.5 inches (or longer if you prefer).
Bind off:
For a nice stretchy cuff bind off, try either Jenys Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off found in Knitty at
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php or a tubular bind-off from
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php. Weave in all ends. Put feet in socks and dance
around because you are done with both socks!
Please send questions about
this pattern to
cassy@knitthehellout.com. I
will respond to this email
faster than Ravelry inquiries.
Cassandra Dominick 2011.
The pattern, photos, and
illustrations contained in the
pattern are subject to
copyright protections. This
pattern is for personal use
only and may not be used for
profit. You may not sell items
made with this pattern.
Merchants may not distribute
this pattern freely or distribute
it as part of a class freely
without written permission of
the author. Printing or
downloading this pattern
implies agreement with these
terms.

knitthehellout.com

Cassandra
Dominick 2011

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