DS Caribbean 2

D E S T I N A T I O N
S P E C I A L I S T
Caribbean
including the Atlantic
Part 2
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands
Anguilla, St-Martin/Sint Maarten, St-Barthlemy, Saba, St. Eustatius,
St. Kitts and Nevis, Antigua and Barbuda, and Montserrat
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands

Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados,
St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and Grenada
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Beach scene, photo St. Vincent and the Grenadines Tourist Office
Diving in the waters off St. Lucia, photo St. Lucia Tourist Board
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Contents
Contents of Part 1
Anguilla
Introduction
St-Martin/Sint Maarten
11
St-Barthlemy (St. Barts)
21
Saba
29
St. Eustatius (Statia)
37
St. Kitts and Nevis
45
Antigua and Barbuda
57
Montserrat
67
73
The Atlantic
Bermuda
Bahamas
Turks and
Caicos Islands
63
65
77
95
Northern Caribbean
Cayman Islands
Jamaica
Haiti
Dominican Republic
Puerto Rico
U.S. Virgin Islands
British Virgin Islands
Guadeloupe
75
Contents of Part 3
Dominica
87
Martinique
99
Southern Caribbean
Trinidad and Tobago
The ABC Islands
Aruba
Bonaire
Curaao
St. Lucia
109
Barbados
121
St. Vincent and the Grenadines
131
Grenada
141
The Travel Institute
1
3
15
19
27
35
Western Caribbean
and the Coast
of Latin America
43
Cuba
45
Mexico (Yucatn)
49
Central America
55
Belize
55
HondurasThe Bay
Islands
60
PanamaThe San Blas
Islands
62
South America
65
Colombia
65
Venezuela
67
Guyana
70
Suriname
73
Index
103
105
115
129
139
151
167
179
77
Contents
iii
Alphabetical
Destinations
T
he following list includes the major destinations and islands in the

Table of Contents, their capitals, and major cities and towns. It
can serve as one way to review when you are done with the text. To
review, simply see if you can identify where each place name is and
what you know about it.
Abacos, The
Andros Island
Anegada
Anguilla
Antigua
Aruba
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
1,
1,
1,
2,
2,
3,
83
86
182
3
57
19
Bahamas, The
Barbados
Barbuda
Bay Islands, The
Belize
Bequia
Bermuda
Berry Islands
Bimini Islands
Bonaire
British Virgin Islands
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
1,
2,
2,
3,
3,
2,
1,
1,
1,
3,
1,
77
121
57
60
55
135
65
87
86
27
179
Caicos Islands
Cancn
Canouan
Caracas
Carriacou
Cartagena
Cat Island
Cayman Islands
Cozumel
Cuba
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
1,
3,
2,
3,
2,
3,
1,
1,
3,
3,
95
49
135
67
145
65
87
105
51
45
Alphabetical Destinations
vi
Destination Specialist Caribbean
Curaao
Part 3, 35
Dominica
Dominican Republic (Dominicana)
Part 2, 87
Part 1, 139
Elbow Cay
Eleuthera
Exumas, The
Part 1, 84
Part 1, 84
Part 1, 85
Freeport
Part 1, 80
Georgetown, Guyana
Grand Bahama Island
Green Turtle Cay
Grenada
Grenadines
Guadeloupe
Guyana
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
3,
1,
1,
2,
2,
2,
3,
70
80
84
141
131
75
70
Haiti
Hamilton
Havana
Harbour Island
Part
Part
Part
Part
1,
1,
3,
1,
129
69
46
85
Inagua
Part 1, 87
Jamaica
Jost Van Dyke
Part 1, 115
Part 1, 182
Kingston
Part 1, 121
La Guaira
Long Island
Part 3, 67
Part 1, 87
Margarita Island
Marie-Galante
Martinique
Mayreau
Montego Bay
Montserrat
Mustique
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
3,
2,
2,
2,
1,
2,
2,
68
80
99
136
118
67
135
Nassau
Negril
Nevis
New Providence Island
Part
Part
Part
Part
1,
1,
2,
1,
81
117
45
81
Ocho Rios
Part 1, 119
Palm Island
Paradise Island
Paramaribo
Peter Island
Petit St. Vincent
Puerto Plata
Puerto Rico
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Roatn
Part 3, 60
Saba
St. Croix
St. John
St. Kitts
St. Lucia
St. Thomas
San Andrs Island
San Blas Islands, The
San Juan
San Salvador
Santo Domingo
Statia (See St. Eustatius)
Suriname
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
2,
2,
1,
2,
1,
2,
2,
2,
1,
2,
3,
3,
1,
1,
1,
2,
3,
Tobago
Tortola
Treasure Cay
Trinidad
Turks Islands
Part
Part
Part
Part
Part
3, 3
1, 180
1, 83
3, 3
1, 95
Union Island
U.S. Virgin Islands
Part 2, 136
Part 1, 167
Vieques
Virgin Gorda
Part 1, 158
Part 1, 181
Walkers Cay
Part 1, 84
2,
1,
3,
1,
2,
1,
1,
136
81
74
182
136
144
151
29
21
171
37
170
45
109
11
169
131
66
62
154
87
141
37
73
Alphabetical Destinations
vii
EASTERN CARIBBEANTHE LEEWARD ISLANDS
ANGUILLA
ST-MARTIN
SINT MAARTEN
ST-BARTHLEMY
(ST. BARTS)
BARBUDA
SABA
ST. EUSTATIUS
(STATIA)
ST. KITTS
ANTIGUA
NEVIS
MONTSERRAT
viii
Eastern Caribbean
The Leeward Islands
The long crescent of the Lesser Antilles begins with the Virgin Islands listed
earlier and continues to the coast of South America. Different geographers
and guidebooks make the break between the Leeward Islands and the
Windward Islands in different places. Some put Guadeloupe in the Leewards,
others in the Windwards. We have opted to put it in the Windwards because
its mountainous, lush landscape and its culture are more similar to the
Windwards to its south.
Roughly from north to south, these islands are
Anguilla
Saba
St. Kitts and Nevis
Antigua and Barbuda
Montserrat
Little
Scrub
Island
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Shoal
Bay
East
Sandy
Ground
Crocus
Bay
Island
Harbour
The
Fountain
Sandy
Island
Scrub
Island
Scilly
Cay
The Valley
Road Bay
Wallblake House
and St. Gerards Catholic Church
Blowing Point
Ferry Terminal
for St. Martin
West
End Shoal
Bay
West
ANGUILLA
Rendezvous
Bay
Maundays
Bay
CARIBBEAN SEA
Anguilla
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
1.45
Kilometers 2.3
Anguilla
M
iles of coast on Anguilla (ang GWIHL uh) are lined almost

exclusively with beaches, some of which are the most beautiful
anywhere. Dazzling white hotels of exquisite Mediterranean design are
set against turquoise waters on long sandy strands. Anguilla is a flat
island, measuring 16 miles long by about 3 miles wide.
Located five miles from St-Martin, Anguilla is often visited on day
trips, as are nearby Saba, St. Eustatius, and St-Barthlemy. There
most similarities end. This British dependency has an ample choice of
accommodations and a carefully paced, growing tourism industry.
Anguillas hundreds of hotel rooms are usually occupied by those in the
know. No charters land from the north, no cruise ships lay anchor here,
and few tourists of the mass market know of it. Anguilla is a vacation
spot for those who want to relax away from crowds and have an opportunity to be pampered at some of the most elegant accommodations in
the Caribbean. The islands history has an interesting twist unmatched
in the Caribbean, helping to create a people who are proudly independent yet exceptionally friendly to visitors.
Fast Facts
Land Area
35 square miles
Population
12,400
Capital
The Valley
Languages
English
Time Zone
UTC -4 or AST (EST +1). It does not
observe daylight-saving time.
Drive on
Left
Currency
Eastern Caribbean dollar (ECD)
Electricity
110 volts, 60 cycles AC, same as U.S.
Historical Background
As is the case with other small Leeward Islands, neither Spain nor other
nations bothered with Anguilla until the mid-1600s, when British settlers arrived, most likely from St. Kitts. Although the French and
various pirate groups took control from the British for short periods of
time, the island has remained under British control up until the present.
A number of factors converged to give Anguillas history a twist different from other islands. Though it is only five miles north of St-Martins
French side, as the northernmost point in the Leewards it is somewhat
isolated from its British cousins. A number of Dutch and French islands
are located between it and British St. Kitts. Its plantation system, and
therefore its early economy, were weak. Slaves brought in were often put
out on their own to fish and learn a trade. The islands population was
also smaller, and today is only one-quarter the size of St. Kitts and
Nevis. Once the British seized permanent control in 1825, they lumped
Anguilla with St. Kitts and Nevis into one administrative unit. The
Anguillans, having little in common with inhabitants of St. Kitts,
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: Anguilla
protested, but the British washed their hands of the matter for more
than a century.
In the 1960s, British possessions in the Caribbean were exercising their
rights to self-determination and deciding on complete independence or
a self-rule status within the British Commonwealth. Anguilla saw itself as
the odd island out, being united in an Anglicized threesome with two
islands with which it felt no kinship. As a result, it revolted. It unilaterally seceded from the soon-to-be independent country and summarily
shipped officials and police from St. Kitts back to their home island.
If anyone doubted Anguillas seriousness, 18 Anguillans staged an
actual invasion of St. Kitts a few weeks later. They tried to storm a
government building on St. Kitts but were rebuffed. No one was
injured, but five people were captured and put on trial. In 1969, after
two years of stubbornness and tension, Great Britains patience came to
an end; it invaded Anguilla with military troops and the London
Police Force. Many Anguillans welcomed them with flags and flowers,
though there was still animosity until they were allowed to break from
St. Kitts. After some wrangling, Anguilla became a separate Crown
colony and a dependent territory in 1980.
Arrival and Location Briefing

There are no direct flights from North America to Anguilla.
Connections from the United States are best made in San Juan, though
St-Martin is another excellent option. British vacationers fly in to
Antigua for connections to Anguilla. Other island-hoppers connect
through St. Thomas.
The ferry ride into the Ferry Terminal at Blowing Point from Marigot,
St-Martin, is only 20 minutes, but seas can sometimes be rough.
Although resorts cluster to some extent in certain areas and around
certain beaches such as the West End, they are perhaps more equally
distributed around the islands perimeter than on any other island.
Choices should be made by resort type and amenities desired; the
beaches at each of them are equally fabulous. However, no resorts are
found around The Valley, Anguillas inland capital.
Local Transportation
The taxi fare from the airport to most places on the island is $10 to
$12 for two people; the fare from the airport to the farthest points on
the island is $22. Those who like to stay on the move can rent a car,
moped, or bike to visit a different beach and restaurant every day, but
those who want to relax can manage by taking taxis or renting a car for
a day or two. Bus service, when and where it exists, is used mostly by
native Anguillans.
Around the Island: Attractions

Only one main road runs the length of Anguilla, so visitors will find it
easy to explore. The island has some colorful cottages representative of
West Indian architecture and one well-known plantation house,
Wallblake House (open only by appointment). Next door is the
unique architecture of St. Gerards Catholic Church, with its intricate
facade made of a mosaic of stones. The Fountain offers nature trails,
bird ponds, and Arawak petroglyphs. The Valley has a few shops and
official buildings but is not a major stop.
But it is Anguillas spectacular beaches rather than great historic or natural sights that draw visitors (however, unlike some other Caribbean
islands, nude or topless bathing is not allowed here). The island is a
paradise of beaches, with white sand, vivid turquoise water, crashing
surf, and protected coves. The island has more than 30 beachesfor
strolling, jogging, or sunningand all are open to the public. From
west to east, some of the best ones include:
Maundays Bay, located in a protected cove, and one of the most
popular beaches on the island
Rendezvous Bay, with a one-and-a-half-mile stretch of white
sand, calm waters, and a view of St-Martin
Road Bay Beach, with yachts dotting the clear blue waters
of the cove
Crocus Bay, with dramatic cliffs and a secluded setting
Shoal Bay and Sandy Ground. Both have a small concentration of resorts and restaurants along their ideal
beaches. Shoal Bay, one of the most famous beaches in
the Caribbean, is a popular destination for day-trippers
from St-Martin.
Courtesy of
Carol Lee
Shoal B
ay Wes
t
Island Harbour Bay, lined with coconut trees and full of activity
Though Anguilla has a selection of hotels in all categories, the island is
most well known for the elegance and Mediterranean/North African
architecture of its premier locations. Villas, condominiums, and resorts
glisten in the sun among long stretches of sand, private swimming
Did you know?
Adding to the splendor

of Anguillas beaches
are tiny isles just off the
coast that are ideal for
day trips or picnics.
Some are close enough
to swim to; others are a
two-minute taxi-boat
ride away. Sandy
Island and Scilly Cay
have daytime snack
bars on them, while
Sombrero Cay is the
northernmost point in
the Lesser Antilles.
pools, and acres of natural landscape. Anguillas villa resorts

feature prominently in leading architectural magazines and
honeymoon publications. The Malliouhana Hotel (rated by many
as among the finest in the Caribbean), Cap Juluca (whose Moorish
domes and 98 rooms are set on 179 acres), and Coccoloba Valtur (an
Italian all-inclusive resort) are just three among a large selection of
exquisite choices. Moroccan, Greek, Italian, and other Mediterranean
influences are evident, and even the humblest accommodations
display character.
Whats Special about Anguilla?

Many islands in the Caribbean have exquisite beaches, but Anguillas
are arguably the most exquisite. Architects who designed Anguillas
accommodations have used these natural attributes and produced the
idyllic feel of the French/Italian Riviera or a Greek island.
Of course, every water sport is available, and the islands gentle landscape makes for easy biking from beach to beach, up and down its
length. However, there are no golf courses on the island. This is an
island that finds an ideal balanceit has all the necessary amenities and
resorts, yet it seems uncommercialized, low-key, and relaxed. The
friendly inhabitants add to the overall experience.
Island Culture
Anguillans are descended from African slaves and European settlers,
especially the Irish who came over from St. Kitts. Since plantations
were never strong here, the islands inhabitants have long been fishermen, carpenters, and boat-builders. The islanders still build boats, and
boat-racing is the islands primary sport. Today, however, much of their
self-reliance and skills are turned toward tourism.
The pride of a people determined to go their own way is evident and is
manifested in a friendliness to visitors, rather than a resentment toward
affluent tourists. Some islanders still favor complete independence for
the island, but the majority prefer its self-rule status as a British
territory. British traditions are seen in sports such as cricket and soccer,
but basketball, tennis, volleyball, and other sports (particularly water
activities) are also popular.
Celebrations and Special Events

Carnival, during the second week of August, is Anguillas major celebration. The islands interpretation of this Caribbean tradition includes
jump-ups (following the bands and dancing in the streets), Jouvert
Morning (dancing from dawn until noon), August Monday (the boat race
that starts Carnival), and the Parade of Troupes. The boat races that take
place throughout the week are a major part of the event.
Dining and Entertainment

Feasting on grilled lobster or fish at a seaside eatery is the perfect finale
to a day on the beach, especially when accompanied by a rum punch.
But there are 70 other dining choices with an array of cuisines.
Restaurants featuring regional food stuffs and influences label themselves Local, West Indian, European-Caribbean, Creole, CaribbeanAmerican, New Caribbean, and Nouveau-Caribbean, indicating a distinct desire for creative Caribbean cookery. Diners can also choose from
French, Italian, Greek, East Indian, or Chinese restaurants. Some of the
best haute cuisine is found in the top resorts in open-air settings or
overlooking the shore, but a little investigation will turn up memorable
local spots, some with equally enchanting views.
Evening entertainment includes the Mayoumba Folkloric Group, which
performs song-and-dance skits about Caribbean culture and features
African drums and a string band. Some establishments offer calypso,
reggae, and other island rhythms. Many of the best and most popular
bars are on the beach or in the hotels.
Another entertainment option is a day trip to St-Martin for shopping
during the day or gambling, nightlife, and dining later in the evening.
Day-trippers should be sure to check when the last ferry returns to
Anguilla. Some visitors might want to take a complete night tour to StMartin, with transfers to and from their hotel in Anguilla, a round-trip
ferry ride, and transfers to a resort in St-Martin with dinner, a show,
and a casino visit.
Cruise Call
None of the major cruise ships calls at Anguilla. Windjammers and
small specialty ships sometimes stop. Repeat cruisegoers making their
second visit to St-Martin might want to visit Anguilla. However, this
requires a taxi transfer to Marigot, a ferry crossing, and a taxi-tour of
Anguilla, plus the return trip to St-Martin.
Selling Anguilla
If you divide the Caribbean between the mass-market destinations with
direct service from North America and the lesser-known islands that take
a bit more effort to get to, Anguilla is clearly among the latter. There
are good connections from many cities in the East, Midwest, and South
to San Juan, St. Thomas, or St-Martin; therefore, visitors can arrive in
Anguilla early enough to enjoy their first day. A three-stage transfer consisting of a taxi from St-Martins Juliana airport on the Dutch side to
Marigot on St-Martins French side, the ferry over to Anguilla, and a
taxi to the hotel can be part of the journey for relaxed, flexible clients
who are traveling light. More rigid clients whose flights might
encounter winter departure delays getting into St-Martin might regard
all these transfers as an insufferable odyssey. Such clients should fly into
Anguilla. In either case, explain the itinerary to your clients in advance
so they are prepared.
Clients new to the Caribbean may have never heard of Anguilla or may
confuse it with Antigua or Aruba (which also have great beaches). You
should carefully determine whether they will appreciate the islands
quiet charms and special appeal. If your clients enjoy destinations that
few of their friends have ever heard of, Anguilla may appeal to them.
Brochure and Web site pictures of the Moorish/Mediterranean hotel
architecture may also entice some clients to visit Anguilla.
Island Secret
Every Saturday morning at Webster Park near the capital, the Corn
Soup Lady sits beside the road, selling her famous soup. Two huge
pots of soup are usually finished by noon, so visitors wanting a taste of
a simple Anguillan experience should get there early.
Key Points about Anguilla

Exquisite upscale resorts with Mediterranean architecture
Miles of beautiful beaches on both coasts
Independent, proud, and friendly islanders
Five miles north of St-Martin
For More Information

Anguilla Tourist Office
P.O. Box 1388
The Valley, Anguilla
Phone: 800-553-4939 or 264-497-2759
Fax: 264-497-2710
E-mail: marva@gov.ai
Web site: www.anguilla-vacation.com
My Contact Information
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Grand Case
Plage dOrient
Pic du Paradis
ST-MARTIN
Marigot
Cupecoy Beach
Oyster
Point
SINT MAARTEN
Dawn Beach
Mullet
Bay
Beach
Cole Bay
Maho
Bay
Beach
Philipsburg
Fort Amsterdam
CARIBBEAN SEA
St-Martin/
Sint Maarten
10
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
3.5
Kilometers 5.5
St-Martin/
Sint Maarten
F
rench St-Martin (sahn mahr TAHN with nasal n)/Dutch Sint

Maarten (sint MAR tin) is an island for todays vacationers-on-thego, those who like to keep busy for the whole week (or longer).
Visitors could spend weeks enjoying the water sports, golf, tennis, gambling casinos, shopping second only to St. Thomas, active nightlife, and
great restaurants on both sides of the island. Hotel choices range from
lavish resorts to inns on the beachwith more than 100 to choose
from. The standard of living is one of the highest in the Caribbean, and
English is spoken everywhere.
St-Martin is well known for being the smallest island in the world that
is divided between two sovereign nations: half is Dutch, half is French.
Not only are visitors given a two-for-one destination, but St-Martin is
also a hub for the smaller nearby islands of Anguilla, St-Barthlemy,
Saba, and St. Eustatius, which can be visited on day trips.
The Spanish, English, French, and Dutch fought over St-Martin in its
earlier years, but this was one island on which none of them achieved
total victory. In a surprisingly amicable settlement between two powers
that were otherwise hostile in the Caribbean, France and the
Netherlands decided to divide the island by treaty in 1648.
According to legend, the division of the island was decided by sending a
Frenchman and a Dutchman to pace their way around the coast. They
started from the same point but headed in opposite directions. Where
they met would be the endpoint of the boundary. France wound up
with the larger share. Though land disputes did occur, the original
boundaries were reaffirmed in 1816 and have remained stable and
peaceful since then.
St-Martin is a dependency of Guadeloupe, which is an overseas department of France; Sint Maarten is administratively a part of the Netherland
Antilles, an autonomous territory of the kingdom of the Netherlands.
Land Area
37 square miles
St-Martin: 21 square miles
St. Maarten: 16 square miles
Population
St-Martin: 29,061
St. Maarten: 38,695
Capital
St-Martin: Marigot
St. Maarten: Philipsburg
Languages
St-Martin: French, English
widely spoken
St. Maarten: Dutch, English
Time Zone
UTC -4 or AST (EST +1). They do not
Fast Facts
Drive on
Right
Currency
St-Martin: Euro
St. Maarten: Dutch guilder (technically
the Netherland Antilles florin, or NAF)
U.S. dollaraccepted everywhere. When
prices are quoted, visitors should be
clear about which currency is being
quoted.
Electricity
On the French side, 200 volts, 60 cycles
AC (adapter plug and transformer
required)
On the Dutch side, 100 volts, 60 cycles
AC, same as U.S.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: St-Martin/Sint Maarten
11
Though technically youre traveling from a Dutch to a French territory

when you cross the border, the only way you would know is if you
looked up and saw the sign reading Bienvenue, la partie franaise.
Courtesy of St-Martin Tourist Office
Historic Monument at Border of St-Martin and Sint Maarten

Nonstop jets from U.S. and European cities are frequent. The island
has airports on both the French and Dutch sides, but all international
flights, even those from France, arrive at Juliana Airport on the Dutch
side. The French regional airport, lEsprance, handles flights to
Guadeloupe, Martinique, St-Barthlemy, and other nearby islands.
However, St-Martin is a major hub and most of the visitors who visit it
by ferry from nearby islands have already connected in St-Martin in
order to reach those islands in the first place. Most travel between StMartin and nearby islands is done by day-trippers.
Before deciding where to locate your clients on the island, you need to
address two questions. First, will they stay on the French side or the
Dutch side? Second, do they want to stay at a hotel within easy reach
of other hotels, restaurants, and activities, or at a hotel that is a bit
more isolated on its own beach or cove? However, remember that this
is not a large island, so nothing is too far.
The Dutch side of the island is more Americanized than the French
side. Condominium developments, big resorts, and shopping areas
take up a good part of the landscape, and there are the inevitable
12
restaurant chains and T-shirt shops as well. Nevertheless, beaches

on the Dutch side are as fabulous as on the French side, and the
nonstop activity is what many tourists want; even so, there are
plenty of island getaway spots for quiet dining and entertainment.
The French side has much of the flavor and ambiance found on other
French islands in the Caribbean (see Guadeloupe and Martinique). As
such, tourists will notice the difference in style, especially if they dine
out or accidentally happen upon a clothing optional beach. Still,
residents of the French side are so accustomed to international tourists
visiting by the boatload and planeload that any culture shock is
minimized. Menus are in French and English, and most residents speak
both languages.
Buses run frequently between Philipsburg, Marigot, and Grand Case.
They do not serve most of the hotel areas or the airport. A taxi or car
rental will be necessary from the airport.
Rental cars are reasonably priced, especially off-season, and are a good
way to explore the island or to get to the more secluded beaches.
However, traffic can get congested during rush hours or when cruise
ships or planes are scheduled to leave.
Boat tours to Anguilla, St-Barthlemy, and Saba are very popular, but
travelers can also take ferries to these islands, if they are just looking
for transportation. Trips take between 30 and 90 minutes, depending
on the island.

St-Martin has few tourist sights (museums, forts, national parks) in
the conventional sense. Its beaches, resorts, casinos, shops, and activities are its true sights. Philipsburg, the capital of the Dutch side, is
famous for its shopping; in the Caribbean, its reputation is second only
to St. Thomas. Indeed, many repeat cruisegoers and other visitors prefer the atmosphere of Philipsburg to that of its American cousin. Front
Street is Philipsburgs 15-block-long mall, home to most of the
shops and two of the Dutch side of the islands 12 casinos. Back Street
is for island business or for a quieter walk. A number of smaller, intown budget hotels are located between Front Street and the beach.
Wathey Square, in the middle of town, is a good place to take a break
while surveying which shop, caf, or amusement to patronize next.
13
Around the square are the town hall and administrative buildings, some
going back to the 1700s. The nearby Sint Maarten Museum reflects
the history and culture of the island and its people from prehistoric to
modern times. At the end of town, on a promontory leading out to
sea, are the ruins of Fort Amsterdam, which was originally built by the
Spanish and then rebuilt by the Dutch.
Marigot (mah rhee GOH), the French capital, is a great place to
browse through boutiques, relax at
bistros and cafs, and soak up
some French atmosphere, islandstyle. A popular pastime is to
shop for the makings of a beach
picnica baguette, some
French delicacies, a bottle of
wine. There is also an old fort
overlooking Marigot.
Farther up the coast on the
Courtesy of
St-MartinSt
French side is Grand Case, a
-Martin Tour
An aeria
ist Office
l
v
ie
w of M
picturesque village with small
arigot
multicolored houses lining
the road, each one a
gourmet restaurant. So
dedicated are these local restaurateurs (many of
them are chefs who have worked throughout France) that they have
earned Grand Case the reputation as the restaurant capital of the
Caribbean.
Beachgoers will enjoy discovering a different beach each day, as there
are 37 beaches . Mullet Bay Beach on the Dutch side is the busiest
one on the island, frequented by guests from numerous large resorts.
Maho Bay Beach, at the end of the main airport, allows sunbathers to
watch 747 airplanes descend before touching down on the runway
about 100 feet away. Quieter, more secluded beaches such as Dawn
Beach or Cupecoy Beach can be found by those who desire them.
However, the beaches on the French side, in areas slightly less developed and much farther from the cruise pier, are generally less crowded.
Topless sunbathing is an accepted practice on all beaches. Plage
dOrient (Orient Beach), known for its watersports and beach bar
restaurants, tends to be more crowded than others. It is one of the
Caribbeans most well-known spots to sunbathe completely au naturel.
Much of the island is hilly, making for beautiful vantage points overlooking the magnificent beaches, resorts, and harbors. The highest point on
14
the island is Pic du Paradis, at 1,400 feet. A bumpy road leads to a park
at the top, with splendid vistas, including views of surrounding islands.
The island has more than 100 hotels, ranging from the 600-room
Maho Beach Hotel & Casino to fabled inns on the beach, such as
Marys Boon and the Horny Toad. The Meridien chain has a 400room lodging on the French side, while Marigot has small and atmospheric inns and converted mansions. La Samanna, just barely on the
French side, is the islands premier secluded, exclusive resort. The
Pasanggrahan Royal Inn in Philipsburg, reputed to be the islands first
hostelry, with lacy architecture and tropical charm, can be easily spotted
by anyone walking up from the cruise dock.
Whats Special about St-Martin/

Sint Maarten?
Visitors can experience two different cultures and lifestyles more
quickly and easily than elsewhere in the Caribbean. However, both are
somewhat superseded by a third international culturethat of the
beach-vacationer.
The cuisine found in Grand Case and Marigot, combined with a
familiarity with and acceptance of North American travelers, are not
duplicated elsewhere. A gourmet could dine on fine creative dishes in a
different bistro every night for his or her entire holiday.
The beaches of most islands in the Caribbean can be touted, but there
is something special about those on St-Martin. The coves and
promontories, combined with the sheer exuberance of the half million
vacationers who come here, earn St-Martins beaches a special recommendation from many visitors.
In St-Martin, duty-free shopping for imported goods is among the best
in the Caribbean. The French styles found in the galleries and arcades
of Marigot add some zest to the experience, and good Caribbean art
can be found in the markets.
Accommodation choices on St-Martin are among the most diverse in the
Caribbean, from large resorts to legendary inns on the beach.
St-Martins position as a hub for four other islands, all of which can be
considered prime destinations, is also unique. Anguilla and StBarthlemy are fairly close, while Saba and St. Eustatius are a bit farther. All are reachable by air, and the first three by sea, for day trips.
15
Island Culture
The Dutch side of the island has an international as well as multi-island
culture. Besides many tourists, people from other islands have come to
the island to contribute to its development and work in the tourism
industry. Still, the Dutch aspect of the island runs deeper than the surface. Street signs, names, and souvenirs, such as windmills, wooden
shoes, and delft china, reflect its ties to the mother country. Business,
education, and the government bespeak the fact that St. Maarten is
part of a far-off European nation.
The other side of St-Martin is unmistakably French, in its language,
style, food, and customs. However, compared to Martinique or
Guadeloupe, much more deference is shown to tourists who unwittingly find themselves in a strange culture. French residents
welcome the hundreds of thousands of visitors who cross over from
the Dutch side, as most do because of the islands small size. An Air
France jet arrives daily (albeit at the Dutch airport), bringing fresh
infusions of French culture. American tourists asking for directions
from a gendarme under the French tricolor will have no trouble
remembering they are in a different culture.

French St-Martin celebrates Carnival before Lent (late February/early
March), in accordance with the dates of major Carnival celebrations in
Catholic countries. The usual parades, dancing, parties, and concerts
are accompanied by steel-drum music. In late March, the Dutch side
has its own Carnival, which is at least as big and boisterous. Both sides
celebrate Concordia Day on November 11.

Dining on St-Martin is considered by some to be the best in the
Caribbean (though others would argue for Guadeloupe). This is in part
due to the strong influences of French cuisine, which in itself would
make the island an exceptional place to dine. The islands gastronomy
also shows strong Creole influences in many dishes. The presence of
some excellent Italian and other Mediterranean restaurants merely adds
to St-Martins culinary distinction. If that wasnt enough, Vietnamese
and Moroccan restaurants offer French-Colonial cuisines.
The Dutch side also has some fine dining, though its not Dutch food
that clients will be eating. There are some excellent international
restaurants, and Dutch-Indonesian restaurants bring flavors and dishes
16
not often found in U.S. cities, such as rijsttafel (rice table) with
numerous small, spicy dishes).
At last count, 12 casinos operate on the Dutch side. Major resorts

have casinos within their hotels, two others are on Philipsburgs main
street, and another is near the airport. There are no casinos on the
French side.
Because tourism holds such prominence in the islands economy, most

entertainment is geared to visitors rather than locals. Many major
hotels and resorts take turns offering special entertainment on different
nights of the week: Caribbean galas (with steel bands, limbo dancing,
and island drinks), live music from African-Caribbean bands, beach
parties, and barbecues. For those looking for more excitement,
discothques feature Latin and international rhythms as well as island
beats. However, for many, a long, leisurely dinner and stroll are
quite sufficient.
Did you know?
Cruise Call
As a cruise port, St-Martin is surpassed in numbers only by Nassau, St.
Thomas, and San Juan. The reasons it is so popular are its high level of
development, excellent shopping, and fantastic, easily accessible beaches. But the fact that tourists are getting two destinations in one makes
it doubly attractive.
Philipsburgs 15 blocks of duty-free shopping, two casinos, and numerous cafs and restaurants are just a five-minute cab ride or 20-minute
walk from the cruise dock. However, the docks and traffic congestion
do not make for a pretty walk, so taking a cab is the better choice.
Taxis will also take visitors to some of the best beaches. Those wanting
to sample the French side can take the bus from Philipsburg to
Marigot. Those who want to visit more than one beach or explore the
French side should rent a car.
Whether its Edam or

Gouda, Brie or
Camembert cheeses,
Beaujolais wine, or
Dutch gin, imported
foods are some of the
islands best souvenirs
or gifts to bring home.
Selling St-Martin/Sint Maarten

St-Martin, with its thousands of rooms, competes well with the leading destinations in the Caribbean. Charters leave from many cities in
the eastern half of the United States. It is ideal for the
conventional fun-in-the-sun, American resort-goer: the island offers
great shopping, excellent beaches, plenty of nightlife, a dozen
casinos, and fantastic restaurants, all set amid two different cultures
and an excellent infrastructure.
17
To differentiate St-Martin from other Caribbean destinations, sell the

benefits of being able to sample French culture and cuisine without the
longer flight and jet lag of a trip to Paris. In addition, point out that StMartin has the sea-sand-sun-sports amenities available on most islands
and is easily accessible, with nonstop flights from the United States.
Those looking to escape from a lot of tourists and commune with the
sand, sea, and stars may find St-Martin a bit too overdeveloped for
their taste. A possible solution is to choose a smaller hotel with more
privacy (especially on the quiet French side) and to book visits to quiet
nearby islands.
Island Secret
Those on a strict budget or who prefer a quick meal will find culinary
skill of a more casual nature on the French side. The Lolosoutdoor
stands and grills where delicacies are cookedare at the far end of
Grand Case, which is known as the culinary capital of the island.
Hungry visitors can savor barbecued fish, crab, lobster, chicken, or ribs.
On weekends there is often live music wafting over from other establishments along the beach.
Key Points about St-Martin/

Sint Maarten
Dutch side: great shopping, casinos, and beaches
1.
2.
3.
4.
French side: great dining and beaches

Philipsburg and Marigot
High level of development on both sides of the island
Hub for other islands

French Side
St-Martin Tourist Office
675 Third Avenue, Suite 1807
New York, NY 10017
Phone: 877-956-1234 or 212-475-8970
Fax: 212-260-8481
E-mail: sxmtony@msn.com
Web site: www.st-martin.org
18
Dutch Side
St. Maarten Tourist Office
675 Third Avenue, Suite 1807
New York, NY 10017
Phone: 800-ST-MAARTEN (800-786-2278) or 212-953-2084
Fax: 212-953-2145
E-mail: info@st-maarten.com
Web site: www.st-maarten.com
19
ATLANTIC OCEAN
ST-BARTHLEMY (ST. BARTS)
Pointe Milou
Plage de
Lorient
Corossol
Plage de Marchal
Baie de
St-Jean
Marigot
Lorient
Morne
du Vitet
St-Jean
Gustavia
Anse de Toiny
CARIBBEAN SEA
Plage
de
Grande
Saline
St-Barthlemey
20
Capital
City or town
Attraction
Miles
.5
Kilometers
.8
St-Barthlemy
(St. Barts)
S
t-Barthlemy (san bar TAY le mee with nasal n), most commonly
referred to as St. Barts by Americans, is chic and expensive. A
celebrity favorite, the island is sometimes described as a bit of the
French Riviera in the Caribbean. It boasts fine dining and some of the
areas best beaches, but most island parallels end there. Its small size
and population, and distinctive clientele have left its customs and heritage more intact than those of many larger islands. Most residents are
descendants of emigrants from Normandy and Brittany in France and
from Sweden, which ruled the country for more than 90 years.
St. Barts is patronized by those in the know, those who have taken
the time to find a secluded retreat, and those (for the most part) who
can afford it.
From the beginning, St. Barts history was different from other islands
in the Caribbean. While French colonists were establishing beachheads
on St. Kitts, Guadeloupe, and Martinique, the first settlers on St. Barts
in 1648 were wiped out by the Caribs, making others reluctant to follow. Protestant natives of Brittany and Normandy, feeling unwelcome
in France, emigrated a few decades later and established a farming community in 1673. The land was never fertile enough or large enough for
plantations and the accompanying slave labor.
Fast Facts
Land Area
8 square miles
Population
7,000
Capital
Gustavia
Languages
French
Time Zone
Drive on
Right
Currency
Euro
Electricity
220 volts, 60 cycles AC. An adapter
plug and converter are required.
French pirates used St. Barts perfectly shaped harbor to prey on enemy
ships, but instead of changing hands many times the island remained
largely under French control until its fortunes took an unusual turn. Five
years before the French Revolution, King Louis XVI sold the island and
its prosperous port to King Gustav of Sweden in exchange for duty-free
trading rights in Gteborg (Gothenburg, Sweden). The Swedes, not
exactly a power in the area, immediately modernized the main town
(later naming it Gustavia), built forts, and announced that the island
would be a duty-free port, which it remains today. A good number of
Swedes moved to the island, and both cultures existed harmoniously for
many decades.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: St-Barthlemy
21
Did you know?
Arriving aircraft at
Gustavia are limited to a
maximum of 19
passengers, a rule easily
understood the first time
you fly in. The pilot must
skim as close as is
safely possible between
two hills and then drop
down quickly before
applying the brakes on a
runway that seems too
short. Actually, the STOL
(short takeoff and
landing) aircraft that are
used make the landing
quite safe. For some,
getting there can be half
the fun; less
adventuresome travelers
might prefer to take the
ferries and catamarans
from nearby St-Martin.
When the ports of larger islands (for example, Dutch Sint Maarten and
Danish St. Thomas) took most trade away from St. Barts, the islands
fortunes declined, and Sweden eventually sold it back to the French in
1878. Although tourism has caused substantial economic and cultural
changes, for the most part St. Barts has been less affected than other
Caribbean islands. The traditions of Normandy, Brittany, and Sweden
are still evident. Today St. Barts is an island in the French overseas
department of Guadeloupe.

St. Barts is 15 miles southeast of St-Martin. No jets from the north
arrive at this small French enclave. The most convenient route is a connection through St-Martin for American cities that have direct service
there. Other commuter flights arrive from San Juan, St. Thomas, and
neighboring islands, especially those in the French West Indies.
Ferries and catamarans, which leave frequently from St-Martin, are
another mode of arrival. The trip takes one and a half hours, but seas
can sometimes be rough.
All flights and boats arrive at Gustavia, the islands only town of any
size. Many hotels are scattered at various beaches and coves around the
island. One location is not necessarily better or more convenient than
another; choices should be made mainly by the style of resort desired
and the beach description.
Many hotels will arrange to pick up visitors at the airport. Taxis are
another option for connecting service. They are unmetered, but prices
are based on the elapsed time for a journey. There are a few local buses
between towns, but they rarely meet the needs of tourists.
The decision to rent a car will depend on how mobile the traveler
wants to be. Exploring different beaches by day and interesting dining
spots at night will require a vehicle, even though distances are short.
The island is quite hilly and the coastline is irregular, so it is a long
journey from one peninsula or promontory to another just across a bay.
Some of the hotels have their own fleets of cars for rent. Open-air jeeps
are popular, and a few firms rent motor scooters. During the high season, car reservations should be made early. Cars sometimes sell out, and
renting for just a few days may be difficult. There are two gas stations
on the island.
22

For a small island whose major attractions are its beaches, the
conventional sights on St. Barts are quite unusual. What
other island can say it has a Swedish capital? Unfortunately,
fire and hurricanes in the 1800s have left few Swedish
remains in Gustavia except for street names, stone houses
and forts, and the triangular-roofed clock tower known as
the Swedish belfry on a hill overlooking the harbor.
However, the towns status as a free port, begun by King
Gustav, remains intact, and shoppers will be tempted by
the elegant French boutiques and minimall. The 14-suite
Hotel Carl Gustaf, set on a hill overlooking the town, is one
of the most luxurious on the island or, indeed, anywhere.
Co
North of Gustavia the road leads to the charming fishing village of

Corossol, where many residents still wear the traditional garb of 17thcentury Normandy. This includes ankle-length dresses and quichenottes
(shoulder-length sunbonnets). Intricate, locally produced straw work
made from the Lantana palm is sold in this area. Corossols Muse
Interocan (Shell Museum), reputed to be the only one in the world,
is just the sort of pleasant, low-key diversion that is typical of St. Barts.
Rugged hills and the irregular coastline create beautiful vistas throughout the rest of the island, with elegant new villas and residential
communities peeking out over the coast and beach. The muchphotographed Toiny coast holds Le Toiny, a hotel with just 12 suites
and a private pool. Le Toiny has accommodated many a movie star
and business mogul in the past.
The 76-room Guanahani is the islands largest hotel and also
among its best.
Each of St. Barts 20-plus beaches and coves has its own distinctive
flavor. St-Jean resembles a mini-Cte dAzur, with its beachside
bistros, small hotels, and bronze sun-worshippers; Lorient is popular
with surfers and those who like rolling waves; Marigot and Marchal
offer the best snorkeling; the secluded Grande Saline is known for its
wild beauty; Anse de Toiny is wild and untouched, but is not recommended for swimming. Other beaches are ankle-deep in seashells or
most easily reached by boat or a long walk on a hilly path. Luxurious
St-Jean is located on the Baie de St-Jean east of Gustavia and close to

the tiny airport. It is the earliest settlement on the island and is now
the most developed tourist area. The town is brimming with bistros,
and there are many boutiques for the serious shopper to explore.
urtesy of Jo
e Petrocik
Gustav
ia harb
or
Did you know?
There is no one correct

way of spelling the
islands name in its shortened usage, although the
official legal name is
Saint Barthlemy. It is
variously called St. Bart,
St. Barth (the French
nickname), and St. Barts,
and you will find all three
names in pamphlets and
guidebooks (weve also
seen St. Barths and St.
Barts). We will use St.
Barts in most instances
because it is the most
commonly used English
spelling.
23
villas, either completely private or for rent to visitors, dot the hills overlooking many of these beaches.
Whats Special about St. Barts?
Did you know?
Another reasonable
accommodation is also
a tourist sight in its
own right. Le Manoir is
a 17th-century Norman
country house that was
disassembled in France
and reconstructed on
St. Barts in 1984. The
cottages surrounding
Le Manoir are available
for rent.
A select clientele, casual-chic style, interesting history, and wide selection of uncrowded beaches make St. Barts a bit different from other
islands. Its unique properties are best compared to those on other small
islands such as the British Virgin Islands or the Grenadines, but here
the ambiance is French, setting a whole different tone. Visitors can
enjoy a little light adventure by choosing one of the isolated beaches
that can only be reached by a rugged path.
Island Culture
French is the official language of the island, but English is spoken in
most places, certainly much more than on Guadeloupe or Martinique,
though not as much as on St-Martin. Some of the French spoken is a
Norman dialect, reflecting the ancestry of some of the early settlers.
Most permanent residents of the island are descendants of emigrants
from Brittany and Normandy, which are provinces in northwestern
France. Distinctions are usually made between thenative French and
those who have come from mainland France more recently. Some live
the simple life their ancestors did, in contrast to the more monied,
more recent arrivals from both France (the Rothschilds) and America
(the Rockefellers). The women still wear traditional garblong,
starched bonnets and flowing dressesbut usually only on special
occasions. They do not do so as a cultural display for tourists, and
day-trippers should be respectful of their privacy.
Weaving straw from the sabal palm into bags, purses, hats, and other
products has been a tradition since the 1800s. Aloe, which grows all
over the island, is used in an island line of medicinal and cosmetic
products (La Ligne St. Barth). The grain of the roucou tree is used in
suntan lotions, following a time-honored native tradition.

St. Barts festivals are not world famous, but because of the islands size
and ambiance, celebrations take on a special flavor they dont have on
larger Caribbean islands. Its pre-Lenten Carnival is festive, as on all
French islands. The Saint Barts Festival is a three-day celebration
24
The Music Festival in January brings in classical stars from Europe and
America as well as famous members of the audience. In 1996 the first
St. Barth Film Festival was held. Now called Cinma Carabe, the
annual festival is dedicated to promoting Caribbean films and filmmakers. Regattas are held during the year, and a Gastronomic Festival
takes place in the spring.
taking place around August 24, when Gustavia hosts elaborate parades,
dancing, and games.
Did you know?

Dining is much of the evenings entertainment for the most part,
whether it be at the more than 50 restaurants and bistros or in private
homes and villas. Restaurants specialize in Classic French, Nouvelle
French, Creole, and seafood. Many restaurants have terraces overlooking the sea where diners can linger to the sound of piano music or the
pounding of the surf. Dining establishments tend to be small, so it is
important to make reservations.
St. Barts has no gambling casinos or big discothques. In addition to
the hotel bars, there are a few jazz bars and dance clubs, but much of
the socializing is done in private.
Cruise Call
Medium-sized to smaller cruise ships call at St. Barts occasionally, at
which time most passengers will take brief tours of the island, stroll
around Gustavia, or spend a few hours on one of the secluded beaches.
The island prefers that the megaships not stop, because an influx of
large numbers of day-trippers would change the ambiance and put a
strain on available services.
Selling St. Barts
Be sure to tell your

clients about Le Select
in Gustavia. It was one
of the first restaurantbars in St-Barthlemy,
opening its doors in
1949. Within a few
years it was the social
center of the island, a
place that moved to the
rhythm of the sun in the
days before electricity
had arrived on St. Barts.
Today, everyone goes to
the still-funky Le Select
on their first visit to the
island, be they Swedish
royalty, Rockefellers,
day-trippers from StMartin, or Jimmy Buffett,
who wrote the song
Cheeseburger in
Paradise about it. The
song is commemorated
in the outdoor dining
area adjacent to the bar.
Most people would love to stay on the proverbial desert island, but
they also want all their amenities. St. Barts is one of the few places that
meet those criteria. Of course, such luxury in relative solitude comes
with a price. St. Barts appeals to somewhat affluent travelers with good
taste, especially if they want an uncrowded island destination and the
opportunity to dine well. For the more typical client, look first in the
St-Jean area. If you cater to celebrities or other elite, youll want to
contact key island real estate offices for villa or house rentals rather
than relying solely on hotel offerings.
25
Day-trippers from St-Martin form another market for St. Barts. These
might include the merely curious, but any upscale traveler lodging on
St-Martin is a good candidate to see neighboring St. Barts in anticipation of a future trip. Travelers can take the ferries on their own or sign
up for a days tour.
Some hotels and restaurants close for a month or more during the year,
often in September. Restaurants are small, and reservations must be
made in advance during the high season.
Island Secret
The eight-room Hostellerie des Trois Forces is located near Morne du
Vitet, the highest point on the island (at 900 feet). It is a moderately
priced inn for St. Barts, but the astrologically designed decor and color
schemes of its Caribbean cottages make it something special. The
owners astrology and tarot readings, and yoga sessions are activities
matched in few, if any, hotels youll find elsewhere.
Key Points about St. Barts

Uncrowded, stylish, private
1.
2.
3.
4.
Gustavia and St-Jean

Fine dining
Good day trip from St-Martin

St-Barthlemy, c/o French Government Tourist Office
444 Madison Avenue, 16th Floor
New York, NY 10022
Phone: 410-286-8311 (for travel agents)
or 410-286-8310 (for general public) or 212-838-7800
Fax: 212-838-7855
E-mail: information@francetourism.com
Web site: www.franceguide.com (for brochures only)
St-Barthlemy Tourist Office in St-Barthlemy:
Phone: (011) 590.27.87.27
Fax: (011) 590.27.74.47
E-mail: odtsb@wanadoo.fr
Web site: www.st-barths.com
26
27
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Flat Point
Wells Bay
SABA
Mount
Scenery
Ladder Bay
The
Gap
Lower Hells
Gate
Upper Hells
Gate
Windwardside
The
Bottom
St. Johns
Saba
Marine Park
Fort Bay
CARIBBEAN SEA
Saba
28
Capital
City or town
Attraction
Miles
.4
Kilometers
.7
Saba
S
aba, an island of the northern Netherland Antilles, attracts

ecotourists and nature lovers. Splendid scenery, both above and
below water, is this islands main attraction. Those natural wonders,
combined with the neat picket fences, red-roofed cottages, and gingerbread trim of the islands buildings, give Saba a fairy-tale feeling. The
island is often visited as a day trip from St-Martin and can easily be
explored in a day.
Fast Facts
Land Area
5 square miles, including all islands
Population
1,500
Capital
The Bottom
Saba, called the Unspoiled Queen, is spotlessly clean, has little

modern development, and yet has a good standard of living. The
name of the island is pronounced SAY bah by locals, but Europeans
say SAH bah.
Languages
Dutch and English
Time Zone
Saba is one of the few Caribbean islands that did not change hands
many times during the 1600s and 1700s. The nature of its terrain
steep cliffs on almost all sidesmade it relatively impregnable. The first
recorded landing of Europeans was in 1632; a ship had stumbled upon
the island, and the crew had no choice. They found fruit trees to sustain them, which meant that someone had been there before them. It
was the custom of sailors to plant food-bearing trees on uninhabited
islands in anticipation of such future shipwrecks.
Drive on
Right
Currency
Netherlands Antilles florin or guilder
(NAF)
Electricity
The first permanent settlement was made by Dutchmen from St.

Eustatius in 1640, but Henry Morgan captured the island for the
English in 1665. The French, who captured St. Eustatius in 1689,
tried to take Saba but had no luck. It changed hands only by treaty or
agreement until the British handed it back to the Dutch in 1816.
In the 1700s, Sabans were mostly cobblers and sugar farmers. Fertile
land in the interior was limited, but they were able to establish small
plantations and brought in a number of slaves. Today the population is
almost half of European descent and half of African descent. In the
1800s, Saban men became renowned sailors, and in the 1900s they left
for Dutch oil fields off Venezuela and for other jobs around the
Caribbean. Currently tourism is an important component of the
islands economy. Today Saba is an integral part of the Netherlands and
has representation in the central government.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: Saba
29

The vast majority of arrivals come from St-Martin. The flying time is
approximately 15 minutes, and there are five flights daily. There are
occasional flights from St. Eustatius as well. Connections via St-Martin
make Saba very convenient for clients located in cities with direct
flights to St-Martin.
Like St-Barthlemy, takeoffs and landings are part of the fun of a
visit. The approach to Sabas airport might be a shock to first-time visitors who are not forewarned. The plane seems to be flying directly into
a mountain; fortunately, at the last minute, it turns and lands quite
safely at the 1,312-foot airstrip. The runway is one of the shortest in
the world and has cliffs at both ends. The experience is often compared
to landing on an aircraft carrier, but the STOL (short takeoff and landing) aircraft dont actually have to use all of the runway.
Two fast ferries connect St-Martin and Saba. The Edge departs Pelican
Marina on the Dutch side on Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday. The
Voyager operates on Tuesday and Thursday. The 60- to 90-minute trip
sometimes encounters choppy waters. Check for possible schedule
changes when your clients plan to travel.
Basically, there is one road on the island, and, appropriately, it is called
The Road. Before the 1940s, the island had only footpaths up and
down its steep mountainsides. In the 1930s, Dutch engineers surveyed
the steep, mountainous terrain of Saba and concluded it would be
impossible to build a road. However, a local resident, Josephus
Lambert Hassell, sent away for a mail-order engineering course;
after studying it, he organized 20 of the islands citizens to help
build the road.
By 1943, the first three-quarters of a mile of road led to the capital,
The Bottom. Twenty years later, in 1963, the last stretch of road
was completed. Today the 15-mile road winds in 20 hairpin turns
from the harbor at Fort Bay to the islands airport, also carved out
of a mountainside.
There are no buses on The Road; instead, travelers must either hitchhike, take a cab, or drive. Saba is one place in the world where hitchhiking is an accepted and safe practice. However, most tourists take
taxis, which meet all arrivals at the airport and ferry dock. Car rentals
are available, but drivers should be warned that roads are very steep,
narrow, and winding. Taxis are a better bet for most people.
30

The Road takes visitors past four villages: starting from the
airport, they are Hells Gate (Lower and Upper),
Windwardside, St. Johns, and The Bottom.
On Hells Gate Hill is the medieval-looking Holy Rosary
Church, which was built in 1962. Behind it, in the
Community Center, village women sell the renowned Saba
lace. Tea towels, handkerchiefs, tablecloths, and blouses are
embellished with the delicate work.
A small settlement and the islands schools are at St. Johns. By zigzagging downhill, the visitor reaches The Bottom. The town, however, is
820 feet above sea level. Its name is derived from the Dutch word
botte, which means bowl. The Bottom is the seat of Sabas government. Nearby is The Gap, a lookout point from which to see the 525
rough-hewn steps leading to Ladder Bay. Other steps lead to Fort Bay
at the waters edge.
The road also leads down to Fort Bay, where there is a dive center, a ferry
dock, and a deep-water pier that cruise tenders use when ships call at Saba.
Saba Marine Park stretches around the entire island (see next page).
Accommodations on Saba add up to about 80 rooms. They include
Willards, a luxurious, relatively secluded cliffside inn with seven rooms
and the only tennis court on the island; the Queens Gardens, a lush
12-room resort and gardens with Indonesian decor; and El Momo Inn,
with five rooms, shared bath, great views, and prices that meet the
needs of clients on a tight budget.
From Windwardside, 1,060 stone steps rise to Mount Scenery. At

2,854 feet, this is the highest point on Saba and one of its main sights.
Signs along the way describe the elephant ears, begonias, palms,
orchids, and other tropical plants. Climbers should pack a box lunch
and beverages and bring along a jacket or sweater for the cooler
temperatures at the summit. The view from the top is well worth the
trip and is a perfect spot for a picnic.
After spiraling past banana plantations and stunning views

Courtesy of
Saba Touris
Windw
t Office
of the ocean, the driver reaches Windwardside, the
ardside
village
islands second-largest village. It sits perched on the crest
of two ravines at 1,968 feet. The Saba Museum, in a 150year-old house set up like a sea captains home, and the tourist office
are located here. A church and some shops for browsing are also
situated among the red-roofed houses, neat cottages, and rambling
lanes and alleyways.
Did you know?
If you calculate the

number of steps and
the altitude at
Windwardside and
Mount Scenery, you
will come to the correct
conclusion that the
ascent is close to 1
foot for each step
(1,060 steps take you
886 feet higher in
elevation). Thats like
walking straight up a
staircase, or in this
case 75 or 80
staircases. The climb is
very pleasant, but
hikers should allot
enough time for it.
31
Whats Special about Saba?

The fact that Saba is the top of a steep mountain jutting out of the sea
makes it different from all other islands in the Caribbean, though St.
Eustatius shares some of its characteristics. For an extreme contrast,
compare Saba geographically to the island of Anguilla or some of the
flat Out Islands of the Bahamas, which are really enlarged sandbars with desert growth.
Hiking in the mountains is a major sport on the island.
Besides the steps to Mount Scenery, seven other trails are
marked out around the island. Although steps are carved into
the mountainside to make walking easier, be advised that
almost all of the paths are quite steep. Walking up can be
tiring and a challenge to little-used leg muscles; walking
down takes care, especially when the steps are wet.
t Office
Saba Touris
Courtesy of
nery
unt Sce
o
M
o
t
ps
The ste
Did you know?
Dive sites on Saba are

marked by buoys, and
the Saba Marine Park
has a marked
snorkeling trail. This
trail is not for the
beginning snorkeler,
however, as waters can
be rough and in places
the drop-offs are over a
thousand feet down the
sides of the submerged
mountains that
surround Saba.
32
There are no beaches on Saba, although a 20-foot strip of

gray sand appears near Fort Bay from April to November,
the off-season.
For divers, Saba is a very special place in the Caribbean. The snorkeling
is also good and beginning divers can be accommodated. But Sabas
waters usually attract experienced divers who have seen many of the
Caribbeans other waterscapes. Saba Marine Park was established to
preserve and maintain the islands underwater resources. It stretches
around the entire island to 200 feet below the high-water mark.
(Because deep dives are possible, facilities at Fort Bay include one of
the few decompression chambers in the Caribbean.)
Submerged pinnacles of islands that never rose from the sea are visible
at the 70-foot level. Caves, ledges, walls, overhangs, and coral and
sponge formations shelter a variety of marine life. A cruise around the
island is particularly special because of its topography.
Island Culture
Sabas mixed population is of Dutch, Irish, Scottish, Scandinavian, and
African descent. The islands architecture is also an amalgam of colonial
and West Indies styleall of it picturesque.
While Saban men left the island as sailors and oil-rig workers during the
past two centuries to support their families, Saban women adopted
lace-making and drawn-thread work as their special trademark. Saba
lace is still a major product of the island and one of the chief mementos
that visitors bring home. Saba Spice, a syrupy, rum-based liqueur, is
another cottage industry on the island. In some cases, cottage industry is literally trueask around and you may be directed to someones
home to purchase it.

The Saba Summer Carnival is held during the last week of July. Saba
Days, an annual mini-winter festival, takes place the first weekend in
December. The Queens Birthday is honored on April 30 with fireworks and a parade.

The 17 island eating establishments range from snack bars and the Y II
K Grill (being situated at the foot of the Mount Scenery trail, its a
good place to grab a packed lunch for the hike) to the international
cuisine of Willards of Saba and Mango Royal at the Queens Gardens
Resort, and dining establishments that will pick you up and drop you
off (things are very casual here). Views from most places are stunning,
and the cuisine is varied. With an island this small, restaurants make
you feel at home immediately. Lobster, land crab, goat chicken with
peanut sauce, saltfish, johnnycakes (cornmeal bread), red pea soup, and
guava berries are just some of the local fare available.
Small specialty cruises, windjammers, and other sailing ships call occasionally at Saba. Tenders land at the dock and transfer arrivals to The
Bottom; from there, visitors can see most of the island during the day.
Selling Saba
Saba is for hikers, divers, nature lovers, and those clients who are always
looking for the road less taken. Do you have clients who always prefer a
bed and breakfast (B&B) over a standard hotel? They may feel that the
entire island is their B&B after a stay of just a few days. Many cruise
ships today carry two or three times as many people as are on the entire
Cruise Call
Sabas nightlife often consists of lingering at a local restaurant or hotel

dining room. If you check the village bulletin board for weekend
events, you will usually find a barbecue, steel band performance, dance,
or entertainment at Guidos Pizza.
Did you know?
Before The Road was

built, Sabans got from
place to place on paths of
stone steps cut into the
mountains. Hikers who
want to walk any of these
seven trails should ask for
Sabas Nature Trails
flyer or contact the Saba
Conservation Foundation
for more information.
33
island of Saba, even when every hotel room is full; so you can see that
Saba has a more intimate feel than larger islands.
A direct flight into St-Martin from many U.S. cities can connect with
flights to Saba and get clients in on the same day. The island also makes
a great day trip out of St-Martin.
Because of its lack of beaches and its steep topography, Saba may stay a
special place for a long time, harkening back to what the Caribbean was
a century ago.
Island Secret
The Saba University School of Medicine, founded in 1992, is the
islands other huge income-earner besides tourism, lace-making, and
the money sent home by those working abroad. Approximately 250
students and faculty of this nonprofit university live on the island
(whose total population is 1,500) during the school year. Almost all
housing, food, and services are provided by the local population, generating about 30 percent of the islands gross national product. Health
care and other facilities have been vastly enhanced, and the schools
predominantly American student body has added an extra dimension to
the islands dining, shopping, and entertainment facilities.
Keys Points about Saba

Steep and mountainous, no beaches
1.
2.
3.
4.
Windwardside and The Bottom

Mount Scenery
For divers and hikers

Saba Tourist Office
P.O. Box 527
Windwardside
Saba, Dutch Caribbean
Phone: (011) 599-416-2231 or 2322
Fax: (011) 599-416-2350
E-mail: iluvsaba@unspoiledqueen.com
Web site: www.turq.com/saba/
34
35
St. Eustatius
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Marine
Park
Northern
Zeelandia
Area
Zeelandia Beach
Zeelandia Bay
ST. EUSTATIUS (STATIA)
Oranje Beach
Upper
Town
Oranjestad
Lower
Town
St
The Quill
(Mt. Mazinga)
.E
CARIBBEAN SEA
us
So tatiu
ut s M
he
rn arin
Ar e
ea Pa
r
Fort de Windt
St. Eustatius Marine Park

Southern Area
St. Eustatius
36
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
.46
Kilometers .75
St. Eustatius
(Statia)
B
ecause St. Eustatius (or Statia, as the island is affectionately called)

is a scenic, mostly volcanic island with few beaches and small-scale
tourist facilities. Ecotravelers and hikers enjoy its dormant volcano,
while divers can explore sunken ships and out-of-the-way underwater
sites. History enthusiasts will enjoy poking around its ruined forts.
Otherwise, visitors may simply want to relax on this friendly, quiet,
unspoiled Dutch islandone not yet touched by mass tourism.
Fast Facts
Land Area
12 square miles
Population
2,100
Capital
Oranjestad
The Spanish totally ignored Statia after sailing by it during early explorations. Few ships even stopped to test the Indians hospitality until the
Dutch landed and settled the island in 1636. The colony was modest at
first, but within a century the Dutch had built it into one of the richest
seaports in the region, earning it the nickname of the Golden Rock.
At one point, its resident population was 8,000; it would swell to twice
that number when as many as 100 ships were in the harbor at one time.
Statias great value also attracted the attention of England and France,
and the island changed hands an officially documented 22 times
between its founding and 1816, when the Dutch regained control for
good. In the meantime, slavery and a small plantation system were
established. Long before slavery was abolished in 1863, Statias prosperity as a seaport had been eclipsed by larger ports, and the islands
population and economy began a decline from which it has never really
recovered. In recent years, tourism has brought limited prosperity to
the islands population of 2,100.
Languages
Dutch; English widely spoken
Time Zone
Drive on
Right
Currency
Netherland Antillean florin or guilder
(NAF)
Electricity

Five or six flights a day make the 20-minute trip from St-Martin to St.
Eustatius. A few of these flights also stop at nearby Saba. Visitors can
arrive in Statia fairly conveniently from U.S. cities that have nonstop
service into St-Martin. Many people staying on St-Martin go sightseeing on Statia, flying in and out the same day.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: St. Eustatius
37
The capital, Oranjestad, is on the coast. Most of the hotels are in the
Lower Town section of the capital, while a few others are in the islands
interior. The largest hotel has 20 rooms.
Did you know?
During the American

Revolution, the island
was a way station for
arms smuggled to the
colonists. When the
United States declared
independence in 1776,
Statia was the first
foreign power to
officially salute a U.S.
flag vessel, an action
the British did not
forget after the war.
American ties have
been continually
renewed by
remembrance of that
fact, and the island
airport is named after
an American president,
Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Statias Franklin Delano Roosevelt airport is conveniently located midisland. Taxis from the airport to hotels are fairly inexpensive. Any of the
four bus-taxis on the island will be glad to conduct an island tour.
Roads are few, nothing is more than 20 minutes away, and cars with
unlimited mileage are reasonable in price. It only takes two or three
hours to see most of the sights on the island by car or taxi.

Oranjestad, the capital, is split into Upper and Lower Town. Lower
Town sits on a cliff overlooking a beach and a calm harbor. Here you can
explore Fort Oranje, the site of the first recognition of a U.S. vessel by a
foreign power. Originally built in 1629 by the French and enlarged in
1636 by the Dutch, it was restored in honor of the U.S. bicentennial celebration in 1976. The remains of 18 other forts in various states of ruin are
scattered around the island and will be of interest to history and archeology enthusiasts. Most of Lower Towns warehouses, which received the
tons of cargo that made Statia theGolden Rock, are also in ruins.
Upper Town holds a historical museum with exhibits dating back to
pre-Columbian times. Nearby is a cluster of 18th-century buildings
around a courtyard known as Three Widows Corner. Views from the
old Dutch Reformed Church recall a time when dozens of ships
would enter and leave the harbor at once. Nearby is Honen Dalim,
one of the Caribbeans oldest synagogues, dating
from 1738. Watching a haunting sunset
overlooking the harbor and Lower Town is
particularly captivating.
For most visitors, the islands biggest draw is Mt.

Mazinga, better known as The Quill. It is often
called the most perfect volcano in the
Caribbean. The Quill rises to 1,960 feet on the
southern end of Statia. Hikers can ascend to the
craters rim and then descend into the crater to
explore a botanical wonderland of lush tropical
alli
Courtesy of Angelo Cav
rain forest with 12 marked trails. The Quill was
e background
th
in
ll
ui
Q
e
Th
designated a National Park in 1998.
ed Church with
Dutch Reform
38
The islands three beaches have mostly white and black sand. Though
pleasant enough, they are not a big draw for tourists. Oranje Beach
near the capital on the leeward side is calmer than Zeelandia Beach
on the windward side, which has exciting Atlantic surf but is dangerous
for swimming. Much of the island has steep cliffs or hills descending
into the sea.
After a big storm, treasure hunters might want to search the beach for
blue glass beads once used for trading. These beads, found only on Statia,
were produced by the Dutch West Indies Trading Company in the 17th
century as a kind of currency. The unusual blue orbs were traded for rum,
sisal, cotton, tobacco, and slaves and are believed to be the same beads the
Dutch used to purchase the island of Manhattan from the Indians.
Whats Special about St. Eustatius?

The islands once-heralded position as a major port makes its history
particularly interesting, both above and below the water line. But
few of the water sports found on other major islands and resorts are
available here.
Courtesy of Mauricio Handler
Diving off Statias coasts is a growing tourist activity. Although there are
a number of dive sites, the islands limited selection of hotels and other
activities hinders its growth in the dive market. St. Eustatius Marine
Park, established in 1998, consists of four areas, including historical
wreck sites, restricted fishing locations, and open areas for diving and
fishing. Divers must go with a local operator to ensure the preservation
Diving, a
popular choice
in St. Eustatius
39
of historical artifacts and marine life. There are more than 30 dive sites
to explore.
Hiking may be the most popular sporting activity on the island. The St.
Eustatius Tourist Office has marked out about a dozen walking trails
around the island. Those with sufficient skill may want to consider
climbing the slopes of The Quill. The hike takes three hours, and
guides are available. There are few amenities on the trail (no water
fountains, picnic tables, or toilets), but for those who like to explore on
their own, it is an activity on the hard edge of soft adventure. Nature
lovers will also enjoy The Quill for its flora and fauna: dense growth,
dozens of flowering species, and at least 17 different kinds of orchids
are found in the volcano crater along with iguanas, huge land crabs,
butterflies, and exotic birds. Other nature tracks are laid out on the
wild northern part of the island.
A rather unique activity is hunting for large land crabs in the crater of
the volcano at night. This may not be everyones idea of a good time,
but an ecotraveler visiting Statia is probably not your average client.
Those who want to pursue this singular activity, as many of the local
people do, should definitely hire a guide.
Island Culture
Life on this relatively undiscovered island is still unspoiled,
undisturbed, and tranquil, harkening back to centuries ago when the
Golden Rock was known throughout the Caribbean and the ports
of Europe. No high-rises, time-shares, or luxury resorts overshadow
the islands natural feel.
Twenty nationalities make up Statias population. Dutch is the official
language used in government and the schools, but almost everyone
speaks English, and Spanish is taught in school as well. The music,
food, and customs are similar to those on other islands in the area.
The island is small enough that almost all passersbys greet one another,
so those staying even a few nights will become known quickly. Visitors
should wear their swimsuits only at the pool or waters edge and cover
up a bit when visiting the interior or the town.
The growth in tourism in the late 1990s has stemmed the tide of
Statians leaving to work on other islands and has led to an increase in
population. Crime is very low to almost nonexistent.
40

Carnival takes place in late July to early August and is similar to
others in the Caribbean, with parades, music, and a Carnival Queen. A
pajama jump-up takes place early in the morning, and on the last day a
calypso competition culminates in the burning of King Momo, the
spirit of the Carnival.
The Birthday of the Queen on April 30 is celebrated with fireworks
and partying, much as it is on other Dutch islands. Americans visiting
St-Martin on November 16 may want to go over to Statia for StatiaAmerican Day. Parades, band concerts, picnics, and a reenactment
with dignitaries in colonial garb take place amid 13-gun salutes.

Dining in Statia is low-key and casual, as you might expect. There is no
lack of variety in the West Indiesstyle and seafood-specialty places, and
at least four restaurants feature Chinese dishes. Dutch-Indonesian cuisine is also available. The popular land crabs come served spicystuffed, in the style of the Antilles (chunks of lobster stewed with
onion, red wine, Pernod, and hot pepper), and in a mousse with caviar
and horseradish.
In the evening, visitors can have drinks at the hotel, or listen to occasional live bands on weekends at a few of the local bars or the
Community Center, or party at one of the islands three nightclubs
(Lago Heights, Stone Oven, and Peace and Love). Weekends are particularly lively and visitors become part of the community for the merriment at hand, but Statia is not an island for extravagant nightlife.
And then theres always land-crabbing at night in The Quill.
Cruise Call
A few small cruise ships stop at St. Eustatius, as well as windjammers
and private yachts. Most visitors take the brief island tour, while only
the hardiest try the hike up The Quill.
Selling St. Eustatius

In the Caribbean, there are getaways for the rich-and-famous; there are
getaways on isolated beaches; and there are getaways that come with
sports and activities at hand when you want them. St. Eustatius is none
41
of these. Statia is a real getaway from everythingexcept nice views,

hiking and diving, a pleasant community atmosphere, and a relaxed
hello from an island friend.
You might consider combining Statia with a trip to St-Martin: four
days on one, three on the other. Or combine it with nearby Saba,
which is similar to Statia overall but different in many respects. Day
trips from St-Martin are, of course, another option.
Statia appeals to those with special interests. Divers, especially those
who dont require a lot of evening entertainment, may find it an ideal
getaway. Hikers and history enthusiasts are also market niches for
Statia, though its pull in these areas is currently not strong enough to
make it a primary destination for large numbers.
Island Secret
The Old Gin House, a historic 18th-century landmark, is a faithful
reconstruction of a building that once housed a cotton gin. With its
reopening in the spring of 1999, the number of accommodations
found on the island comes to a grand total of four (plus a guesthouse
and efficiency apartment rentals).
Key Points about St. Eustatius

History: once the Golden Rock
1.
2.
3.
4.
Friendly, quiet, unspoiled

Oranjestad
The Quill
Hiking and diving

St. Eustatius (Statia) Tourist Office
Oranjestad
St. Eustatius
Phone: (011) 599-318-2433
Fax: (011) 599-318-2433
E-mail: euxtour@goldenrock.net
Web site: www.turq.com/statia/
42
43
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Mt.
Liamuiga
Sandy Point
Fortress of Brimstone Hill
Half-Way Tree
Middle Island
Golden Rock
Bloody Point
Basseterre
ST. KITTS
Frigate
Bay
Cockleshell Bay
Banana Bay
Hurricane Hill
Nelsons
Pinneys Beach
Spring
Eden
Brown Estate
Charlestown
Bath
CARIBBEAN SEA
NEVIS
St. Kitts
Nevis
44
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
5.3
Kilometers 8.5
St. Kitts and

Nevis
T
he location of St. Kitts (officially named St. Christopher) and

Nevis (NEE vuhs) gives a clue to their appeal. Near the southern
end of the string of the Leeward Islands and the Virgin Islands of the
Lesser Antilles, they are easily reached by flights from their British and
Dutch neighbors. St. Kitts has beautiful beaches and resorts but still
not much glitter and hustle bustle. It retains a West Indian ambiance
and unspoiled natural charm that is only slowly changing. Nevis has
more in common with the even quieter St. Eustatius and Saba to its
north. Caribbean history and a British air are reflected on both islands.
Fast Facts
St. Kitts and Nevis possess some of the lush, fertile, and tropical landscape of the larger Windwards to their south. Sugarcane fields set
against volcanic hills, black-sand beaches, and views of many island
neighbors give both islands an unmistakable beauty. St. Kittss three
volcanic peaks and Neviss one central dormant volcano, capped by
snow-like clouds, offer Tahitian-like, luxuriant scenes.
Capitals
Basseterre, St. Kitts
Charlestown, Nevis
Visitors to these islands enjoy the slow pace of a country holiday near
the beach. Unlike most islands, Nevis was a center of European tourism
in another era and has preserved its history and heritage better than
most. For years, the hallmark of both islands has been intimate inns,
restored plantation houses, and secluded villasin short, privacy in a
tropical environment. At the beginning of the new millennium, large
resorts were beginning to join the few hotels that dot St. Kittss sandy
white shores. Nevis remains a haven of plantation hotels that hint of
West Indian life as it was two centuries ago.
St. Kitts and Nevis were originally discovered by the Spanish. After a
100-year hiatus, the islands spent most of the next two centuries volleying back and forth between the European powers, primarily England
and France. There is less French heritage than on islands farther to the
south, but French place-names such as Basseterre still remain.
Land Area
St. Kitts: 68 square miles
Nevis: 36 square miles
Population
45,000
St. Kitts: 36,000
Nevis: 9,000
Languages
English
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Currency
East Caribbean dollar (ECD)
Electricity
220 volts, 60 cycles AC. Converters and
adapters are necessary. However, many
hotels supply American standard
electricity, so be sure to check when
booking.
Each island followed the economic model of plantation, slavery, eman-
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: St. Kitts and Nevis
45
cipation, and decline that took place on other islands. Both have made
a stronger-than-average commitment to preserve the buildings and
trappings of their plantation heritage for future generations.
Both islands played a very prominent part in early colonial Caribbean
history, more prominent than their position today would suggest. For
many years, the French and English shared St. Kitts in relative harmony, using it as a base to colonize and control the islands around
them. Thus, for over a century St. Kitts was known as the cradle of
the Caribbean, a designation still recalled today. Once the two powers
had settled most of the other islands, they began feuding over St. Kitts.
The island changed hands between France and Britain until the British
gained final control.
Neviss story diverged from that of most islands in the area. In the 19th
century, it became known as the spa of the Caribbean. It attracted
fashionable Europeans who came to experience the curative powers of
the islands mineral baths. Names of gentry and nobility filled the guest
ledgers of its health spas for a century.
Beginning in 1888, St. Kitts, Nevis, and Anguilla were forced into union
with one another. Nevis and St. Kitts are only two miles apart, while
Anguilla is relatively distant. In the late 20th century, Anguilla staged a
mini-revolution in one of the more curious events of Caribbean history (see the chapter on Anguilla) and was eventually allowed to withdraw
from the union. In 1983 St. Kitts and Nevis became one independent
nation, but each operates its own internal affairs. Nevis reserves the right
to secede if two-thirds of its population so chooses. Up until recently it
seemed content in the union, though there has been plenty of rivalry. At
some time in the future a referendum might possibly lead the islands to
divide into two separate countries.

During high season, charters from Chicago, Detroit, and Boston
operate directly into St. Kitts. Otherwise, most travelers arrive on connecting flights via San Juan, Puerto Rico, or other Caribbean hubs such
as St-Martin and Antigua. Arrivals on Nevis come either on the eightminute flight from St. Kitts or via the ferry between Basseterre, St.
Kitts, and Charlestown, Nevis, (a 45-minute trip).
St. Kittss hotels cluster where the island narrows at the beginning of
the southeastern peninsula. This location puts them within easy reach
of both the airport and the capital, Basseterre.
On Nevis, a number of accommodations are clustered near the airport
46
on the northern end of the island. However, two top locations are
along Pinneys Beach near Charlestown.
Ferries operate daily across the two-mile channel between the two
islands; the trip takes about 45 minutes. On St. Kitts, car rentals are
easily managed; but renters on Nevis should be aware of the islands
winding roads. Visitors might want to rent a car, jeep, or motorbike for
a few days and then use taxis the rest of the time. In-season car rentals
may have a three-day minimum. Therefore, you should book in
advance, especially in high season.
On both islands, however, many accommodations are located fairly
close to arrival points, and taxi transfers are minimal. A one-day taxi
tour of each island will suffice for many visitors. Those so inclined can
see a good part of the two islands by public bus; the bus routes are
fairly simple to learn. Remind clients to start early in the day and to
finish early, because so do the buses.
Around the Islands: Attractions

St. Kitts
Visitors will probably start from one of their hotels on North

or South Frigate Bay and see Basseterre, the capital and hub
of activity. The main square is called the Circus, named after
Londons Piccadilly Circus. In the middle of the square is a
clock tower reminiscent of Big Ben. Independence Square,
the old slave market, is surrounded by private Georgianstyle homes. Other sights include St. Georges Anglican
Church and its lawns and gardens, and the Treasury
House, a domed colonial building on the waterfront.
Courtesy of
Tim Benfor
d
St. Kittss elongated shape, with a narrow peninsula at one end, has
been likened to a chicken leg or a cricket paddle (and round Nevis can
be seen as the ball). Fortunately, a road runs along the entire perimeter
of the major part of the paddle, allowing for a wonderful circle (or
oval) trip of the island. Another road runs along the narrow handle of
the paddle. Immense fields of sugarcane spill down St. Kittss
hills from difficult-to-penetrate rain forests, waterfalls, and
mountains, making for a beautiful drive.
Basset
erres C
ircus S
quare
Heading west along the south coast, visitors encounter

Bloody Point, where, early in colonial history, French and English
47
troops briefly collaborated to defeat and massacre the Caribs who once
lived on the island. Next is Middle Island, which holds the tombs of
the original British settlers on St. Kitts. Finally there is Half-Way Tree,
once the boundary between the British and French sectors.
d
St. Kitts an
Courtesy of
urism
rtment of To
Nevis Depa
ne Hill
Brimsto
f
o
s
s
Fortre
Farther along is the Fortress of Brimstone Hill. Today it is a

national park, and in 1999 it was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. This 38-acre fortress is perhaps the islands number-one point of interest. Most Caribbean islands contain fascinating forts, symbols of colonial power and defense. However,
Brimstone Hill is more than just another of these forts.
Located atop a 750-foot hill, it has a Masada-like aspect. It
was built over a period of decades by the labor of African
slaves (some of whom perished in the process). For these reasons, the fort is important to the heritage of St. Kitts and
the Caribbean. Much of its history and the recognition it
deserves are only now coming to light. Archeological work
on the site began in 1996 and still continues.
A long walk from the parking area to the fort atop the
hill affords a spectacular view of the historic village of Sandy Point, the
coast, and surrounding islands. Saba and St. Eustatius are to the northwest, Montserrat and Nevis are to the southeast, and St-Barthlemy
and St-Martin are to the north. The ruins of the military barracks, officers quarters, ordnance stores, and a cemetery are within the forts
walls. A small museum traces the islands history since the Stone Age,
including the major battles between the British and French that took
place here. The Citadelle on Haiti is perhaps the only other structure in
the Caribbean that rivals the fortress at Brimstone in size and, more
importantly, in site.
Other remains of forts and sugarcane plantations can be seen along the
coast and in the interior. The northeastern coast is a series of cliffs and
Black Rocks made up of lava deposits that toppled into the sea ages
ago when the volcano was active.
This circular tour, and short jaunts from it, will satisfy most visitors;
but some adventurous travelers will want to see the islands mountainous, lush interior. Few roads penetrate this land of rain forests and volcanic hills, so the area remains unspoiled. Hikers should be directed to
Mt. Liamuiga (lie a MEE guh) and some of the islands other volcanic
peaks. Visitors can drive part of the way by four-wheel drive, but then
they must make a long steady hike to the crater of this dormant volcano. To climb down into the crater, they must use vines and roots. If
they make the longer trip up to the summit, they will be 3,792 feet
48
Courtesy of Tim Benford
above sea level. Though parts of the hike can be attempted by experienced hikers on their own, most people will want a guide for the
entire trip. Anyone who is physically active and in good shape can do
the hike, but its still a bit of a challenge.
Rawlins
Plantation
At the end of the long eastern peninsula are Cockleshell Bay and
Banana Bay, where visitors can enjoy great beaches and fine views
of Nevis.
Visitors can choose between resorts on the beach and in secluded coves
in the Frigate Bay/Basseterre area and old plantation houses, most of
which have been converted into hotels. Sumptuous accommodations at
the White House will remind visitors of the islands colonial past.
Rawlins Plantation is built around the remains of a 17th-century sugar
mill, while Ottleys Plantation is in a great house dating from 1832.
Other luxury hotels and villas are in the hills overlooking the bay, while
bed and breakfasts, inns, and guesthouses are often in garden settings.
High tea at the luxurious Golden Lemon Inn and Villas can be a high
point of some clients trips. The Jack Tar Village, overlooking a lake, is
a moderate to first-class all-inclusive resort with a casino. It is currently
one of the largest resorts in the country. Newer resorts are planned for
the Frigate Bay area in coming years.
Nevis
Smaller and quieter, Nevis is an almost circular island whose central
volcanic peak is typically shrouded in white clouds and mist. Lush hillsides, natural-spring spas, and tropical flora surround the peak. The
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north coast is lined with a string of black-sand beaches, while the south
coast has powdery white-sand beaches. A number of hotels lie near the
airport in the north. The largest hotel is located on beautiful Pinneys
Beach on the west coast near Charlestown. The south contains a number of fascinating hotels that were once estate houses.
Did you know?
A Caribbean romance
novel could be written
about what happened
almost 200 years ago
at the Eden Brown
Estate on Nevis. On
June 17, 1822, a
wealthy planters
daughter was to be
wed there to the son of
the owner of an adjoining estate. During the
pre-wedding festivities,
however, the groom and
the best man, who was
the bride-to-bes brother, got into an argument
that resulted in a duel.
The official story states
that both were killed,
which is rare in a duel,
but some rumors say
that the groom survived
and fled. In any case,
the brides brothers
death is certified, and
the mystery remains.
The estate was then
closed and abandoned,
left to the ravages of
time, and is said to be
haunted to this day.
Compact Charlestown, and its waterfront Marketplace, can be explored

in an hour. It is one of the most pleasant towns in the Caribbean, with
some of the best-preserved buildings. At the northern end of town is
one of the islands major attractionsthe Alexander Hamilton House,
birthplace of the first U.S. Treasury Secretary and his home for five
years. Hamilton was born in 1757 of parents from Nevis. The house,
which dates back to the late 1600s, has been restored, and a small
museum is dedicated to the history of Nevis and Hamilton himself.
Nevis was an internationally
renowned spa location in the
1800s. South of Charlestown
are the ruins of Bath Hotel
and Bath Springs, which was
first built in 1778. The Bath
House has been restored and
is a popular tourist stop. The
complex contains the
Horatio Nelson Museum,
built to honor the islands
other famous resident-visitor, who married the local
Francis (Fanny) Nisbet.
Bath H
otel an
dB
Courtesy of
Tim Benfor
d
ath Spr
ings
North of the capital is Pinneys Beach, a four-mile strand that many

polls rank as one of the best beaches in the Caribbean. Nelsons
Spring is north of the beach. Admiral Nelson used to stop here on
trips from Antigua to restock his ships with water and to stay long
enough to court Fanny.
Farther north, the road diverges: one part travels across the northern
third of the island, while the other stays along the coast and leads to
Hurricane Hill. The hill offers a splendid view of St. Kitts; indeed,
one of the best aspects of St. Kitts and Nevis is that each has beautiful
views of the other. Along the east coast is the Eden Brown Estate.
Built in the 1740s, it was the scene of one of the Caribbeans most
haunting tales (see the sidebar).
The road around Nevis leaves the coast and then cuts across the southern third of the island back to Charlestown. As on St. Kitts, few good
50
roads go deep into the center of the island. But hikers can visit the
interiortrekking past sugar plantations, through the rain forest
around Nevis Peak, or to the summit. A number of tour operators
organize hikes up this dormant volcano, as well as other parts of the
interior, and clients are much better off going with a guide.
Great houses, plantations, and other special inns are banded together
in an organization called the Inns of Nevis. Neviss prime accommodations are on famed Pinneys Beach: the Four Seasons Resort offers all
imaginable island sports, including an 18-hole Robert Trent Jones golf
course.
Whats Special about St. Kitts

and Nevis?
Plantation house hospitality, and the history and tradition that accompany it, are more pronounced on St. Kitts and Nevis than anywhere
else in the Caribbean. At the same time, one or two large resorts on
each island will satisfy those who want both resort facilities and the
opportunity to escape to a quieter spot, if they choose to.
St. Kitts and Nevis offer great varietyplenty of water sports, hiking
and ecotravel in their interior, and history and traditionbut they do
so in a more low-key manner than nearby all-encompassing resort
islands. The islands have two great golf courses, plenty of water sports,
and a casino, but these amenities have not spoiled their natural feeling
and more out-of-the-way atmosphere.
Island Culture
Though French has left some traces in the local language, English has
been the official language of the islands for more than 200 years.
Cricket is the sport of choice for locals, and horse-racing is particularly
popular on Nevis. Another English tradition is afternoon tea at one of
the plantations. Life on both islands is low-key, but development along
the beaches near Basseterre, St. Kitts, is beginning to increase activity
on the island. Nevis is still little affected.
Food and music on the islands follow the Caribbean pattern. The lush
sides of the mountains produce a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables
that enhance the simplest of menus. Pepperpot peas, papayas, yams,
and pumpkins are local favorites, along with more unusual fruits with
intriguing names such as soursop. Pickled and curried items are popular
in local restaurants.
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People from St. Kitts are friendly and outgoing. Those from Nevis are
no less friendly, but they are more reserved and calm. On either island,
visitors who walk through town or along the roads can easily engage
islanders in conversation. Both islands residents have an air of confidence in knowing that their islands were the original hub from which
almost all nearby islands were explored and colonized. As on other
islands, dress is casual, but beachwear should be kept in its proper
place, and not worn in town, at shopping malls, or in restaurants off
the beach. At top spots in the evening, male diners may feel more comfortable in a jacket, especially in-season.
For 150 years after being discovered, St. Kitts was known as St.
Christopher, reportedly having been named by Columbus after his patron
saint. Islanders later shortened it. Nevis was also named by the Spanish,
who remarked that its volcanic cone looked like the mountains of the
Sierra Nevada in southern Spain, which were covered in snow (las nieves)
during the winter. Todays hikers need not worry about encountering any
snow near the crater of Nevis Peak, but they will be in the clouds.

St. Kittss Carnival takes place over the Christmas and New Year holidays. The 10-day Carnival begins on December 24, but its very early in
the morning of December 26, after religious respect has been paid, that
Jouvert (pronounced jouvay) takes place. This is when there is the traditional French Carnival coming-out (or leaving the houses after partying all night) of dancers and partiers. It really gets the festival going.
The four-day St. Kitts Music Festival, which starts on the last
Thursday of June, is one of the best in the Caribbean. The festival gets
the whole island involved, including people of all ages. It brings
together Caribbean rhythms, jazz, blues, and gospel played by the best
island performers, as well as special international stars. Hugh Masekala,
Peabo Bryson, and Chaka Khan are some of the past performers.
Neviss Culturama, a weeklong event at the beginning of August, is a
combination of Carnival and annual arts festival. It focuses on all
aspects of the arts and culture of Nevis, leading up to Culturama activities that span the month of July, and the Cultural Village features performances, food, and drink for three weeks, including festival week.

Diners on St. Kitts and especially on Nevis can enjoy a special treat:
feasting on West Indian or Continental cuisine in a plantation guest-
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Cruise Call
As a cruise destination, St. Kitts and Nevis have grown quickly in the
past few years. Cruisegoers can easily do their sightseeing in Basseterre,
but most visitors will probably enjoy a tour of the island. Visiting the
Fortress of Brimstone Hill and other historic spots, stopping at plantations and gardens, and circling the islands lush outer rim make for an
interesting trip. Other options include heading straight for Nevis for a
similar tour of its highlights, taking the rugged hike up Mt. Liamuiga
(this is an all-day tour for fit cruisegoers only), and a number of snorkeling, catamaran, or kayak trips.
Selling St. Kitts and Nevis

Of the two islands, Nevis is more easily classifiable. Clients who desire
the elegance of a bygone era will enjoy staying in one of the islands
plantation houses. These restored gems have a true Caribbean atmosphere. A lush landscape, stunning seascapes, and views of other
Caribbean islands add to this perfect portrait. At the same time,
Pinneys Beach is one of the best in the Caribbean and is only a short
drive from any spot on the island. Guests staying at the Four Seasons
will be directly overlooking Pinneys Beach. Residing at such a beachfront resort, with its full complement of facilities and activities, while
taking a number of meals at plantation restaurants, may be the ideal
vacation for some clients.
Nightlife tends to be low-key, though more and more is being offered

on St. Kitts. For many visitors, the entertainment focus is in hotels;
even so, much of the nightlife is on the weekends, and more is offered
in-season. Those who seek them out will find a variety of local places
and random jump-ups. The Jack Tar Village on St. Kitts currently has
the only casino, but newly planned resorts may add to that. The Four
Seasons on Nevis offers entertainment on most nights.
house, perhaps with a stunning view of the Caribbean. Since most plantation houses are both hotels and restaurants, seating for nonguests is
limited and reservations are a must. Choice of restaurants on St. Kitts is
a bit broader, ranging from beachfront bistros to elegant plantation
dining rooms. Tell clients to look for the Sunday brunch at a plantation
houseanother pleasure of the islands.
Did you know?
Ordering a CSR and

Ting will put visitors into
the spirit (and spirits) of
the island. CSR (Cane
Spirit Rothschild) is a
clear liquor produced
from the remains of
sugarcane production, a
process that began in
South Africa in the late
1800s. When the
current Baron de
Rothschild visited St.
Kitts in the 1980s, he
got the idea to distill
the liquor here. Since
then, it has displaced
rum as the drink of the
island. It is often mixed
with Ting, a grapefruit
soft drink. Visitors can
usually tour the CSR
plant with advance
notice.
St. Kitts has a number of selling points. Most accommodations are near
the narrow handle of the island, where the best beaches are. St. Kitts
also has a number of excellent plantation guesthouses. Increasingly, the
island is offering the amenities of resort living, but it combines these
53
with a rather low-key tourist environment, geared to getting away from

it all. As such, visitors can enjoy the best of both worlds. Those looking
for more tranquil locations can always escape to the northern part of
the island.
The islands are so close that each offers the opportunity for a day trip
to the other. Most visitors choose to take day trips, which you can
arrange in advance. Sometimes that day trip will lead to a longer stay
during a return trip. Each island has an excellent 18-hole golf course in
a beautiful setting, giving golfers one more reason to visit the other
island. Naturally, another option is to split a vacation, with a number of
days and nights on each island.
Island Secret
There are few Caribbean islands where one can find monkeys as part of
the natural fauna. St. Kitts and Nevis both have green African monkeys,
which were originally brought to the islands by French settlers. In the
ensuing three centuries, the monkeys have multiplied to the extent that
they now probably outnumber the human population. Visitors should
watch for them while hiking in the rain forest. Though interesting to
tourists, the monkeys sometimes devour local produce. Many residents
now view the vervets more as pests than pets.
Key Points about St. Kitts and Nevis

Basseterre and Charlestown
1.
2.
3.
4.
Frigate Bay beaches and resorts

Fortress of Brimstone Hill
Alexander Hamilton House and Horatio Nelson Museum
Plantation atmosphere and accommodations
Lush forests and green volcanic landscapes

St. Kitts and Nevis Department of Tourism
414 East 75th Street, 5th Floor
New York, NY 10021
Phone: 800-582-6208 or 212-535-1234
Fax: 212-734-6511
E-mail: info@stkittstourism.kn
Web site: www.stkitts-tourism.com
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55
Goat Island
Codrington
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Coco
Point
BARBUDA
Long Island
Great Bird Island
Dickenson Bay
Runaway Bay
Guana Island
St. Johns
Long Bay
Devils Bridge
Green Island
Bettys
Hope
Liberta
Half Moon Bay
Boggy Peak
Fig Tree Drive
ANTIGUA
English
Harbour
Curtain
Bluff
Shirley Heights
Carlisle Bay
CARIBBEAN SEA
Barbuda
Antigua
56
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
3.3
Kilometers 5.3
Antigua and
Barbuda
T
he islands of Antigua (ahn TEE guh) and Barbuda (bahr BYU duh)
are known as the heart of the Caribbean, partly because of their
central location, but also because they are at the center of the British
Leeward Islands. Although it does not match the tourist numbers of
some islands in the Greater Antilles, Antigua is a major destination,
with a very well-developed tourism infrastructure. Antigua is a popular
cruise port and has seen a trend toward all-inclusive resorts.
Antiguas irregular coastline is marked by inlets, coves, and natural harbors, which create the tourist attraction that has brought it the most
fameits 365 beaches. This topography and the islands location in the
center of the Caribbean have made sailing one of Antiguas major appeals.
In stark contrast to Antigua, Barbuda is a small, tranquil island that has
yet to see its first real paved road. A flat coral island with a large lagoon
on one side, it has an abundance of long beaches with pink or white
sand. Barbuda is best suited for those who yearn for peace and quiet, or
nature lovers who want to visit the bird sanctuary at the lagoon.
Fast Facts
Land Area
Antigua: 108 square miles
Barbuda: 62 square miles
Population
Antigua: 67,000
Barbuda: 1,500
Capital
St. Johns, Antigua
Languages
English
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Currency
The islands of Antigua and Barbuda were attacked by the Dutch and
French a number of times, but they remained in English hands
throughout most of their history. The huge naval base at English
Harbour on Antigua is evidence of the countrys formidable bulwark
against foreign invasion. It was abandoned in the early 19th century
but was restored in the 1960s. The Dockyard is one of the greatest
historical sights in the Caribbean as well as a tourist hub.
Electricity
Both 110 volts, 50 cycles AC and 220volts, 60 cycles DC can be found.
Check with local hotels. Plug adapters
and converters may be necessary.
A U.S.-British agreement during World War II granted the United

States bases on Antigua and brought a large influx of Americans. The
U.S. Air Force and Navy still maintain bases on the island.
Antigua is a hub and a capital, in a sense, of the six British Leeward
Islands. At one time, attempts were made to unite them, but very little
was accomplished to that end. Both Anguilla and Montserrat opted to
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: Antigua and Barbuda
57
remain British colonies, while Antigua and Barbuda became one independent country and St. Kitts and Nevis became another.
Antigua and Barbuda became an independent nation in 1981, and the

country remains part of the British Commonwealth.
Did you know?
The Caribbean islands

from Montserrat
southward tend to have
been exploded upward,
a process that began
millions of years ago
and still continues (for
example, on presentday Montserrat and on
Martinique during the
early 1900s). The
volcanic mountains thus
formed capture rain
clouds much better than
do the flat islands of
the northern Antilles.
Therefore, the islands of
the southern Antilles
usually have tropical
rain forests along their
mountainsides and a
much lusher
environment.

Antigua is the most important destination of the British Leeward
Islands, just as St-Martin is the hub of the Dutch islands. These flat,
desert-like islands of Antigua and Barbuda, in the northern half of the
Caribbean, are ringed with coral and are often scrubland/sandbars,
rising 100 feet above sea level. Their beaches are unparalleled.
Scheduled nonstop flights and charters from Florida, New York,
Toronto, and occasionally other East Coast cities land at the airport
near St. Johns, Antigua. The airport can handle jets of all sizes and will
be finishing a major overhaul in 2002. Antigua is a hub for flights to
almost every island north and south of it.
Antiguas round, amoeba-like shape, with many coves, harbors, and
bays on all sides, is a major reason that hotels can be found all around
the perimeter of the island, with a fairly heavy concentration to the
north and west of St. Johns. For clients who like to be where the
action is, you should choose this more-developed area.
Otherwise you can consider resorts along the southwestern coast, those
near English Harbour, or those due east of St. Johns near Long Bay.
English Harbour is an excellent location for nautically or historically
minded clients who do not need to be right on a beach. A number of
resorts around the island are all-inclusive or at least full-service in their
offerings, due to their secluded locations.
On Antigua, the decision to rent a car depends strictly on the client.
The island is large enough and has so many beaches, coves, and sights
that those who like to explore may wish to drive. On the other hand,
most clients who are coming for the resort experience and relaxation
may be better off taking taxis, taking an island tour, and/or renting a
car for a day if they feel the urge. A $20 local driving permit is mandatory for renters. Clients should be advised that roads are potholed in
many areas.
There is fairly convenient public transportation between St. Johns and
58
English Harbour as long as visitors make certain to catch the last bus in
the afternoon on their return. Because of the islands geography, however, other local bus and van services do not fit the needs of most
tourists. Most hotels are in harbors or locations away from St. Johns,
and the time and bother to make all the necessary transfers take up too
much time in the vacation day.
Flights from Antigua to Barbuda take 15 minutes and leave a couple of
times a day. Scheduled ferries do not run between the islands because
of the distancethey are 30 miles apartand the small number of people who make the trip each day. Most people fly to Barbuda for day
trips. Unless clients are on a tour, transportation on Barbuda consists of
negotiating with local people who show up with their cars to meet
flights. No major car rental companies have outlets on Barbuda, but
the tourist office can supply the names and numbers of small companies
or individuals who rent cars or four-wheel-drive vehicles.

Antigua
The other main hub for sightseers is across the island at English
Harbour. The Royal Naval Dockyard, known as Nelsons Dockyard,
is the islands number-one sight and one of the top historical attractions of the Caribbean. The stone warehouses, workshops, and quarters
that make up the naval yard helped give the English dominance in the
area in the 18th century; however, the Dockyard was abandoned in the
19th century. Restoration of the complex began after World War II,
and it was reopened with much fanfare in 1961. Some have compared
Nelsons Dockyard to Williamsburg, Virginia. It is now a national park.
Both the airport and the islands two cruise ports are near St. Johns.
Visitors will enjoy Heritage Quaya multimillion-dollar complex of
40 shops, a theater, hotel, casino, and food courtand Redcliffe
Quay, another waterfront marketplace just south of Heritage Quay.
The charm of restored buildings around small courtyards and cafs
makes this a favorite upscale shopping area among residents and visitors
alike. The two major sights for more conventional sightseeing are the
Museum of Antigua and Barbuda, housing artifacts of Indians native
to the islands, and St. Johns Cathedral, which was destroyed by an
earthquake in 1843 and subsequently rebuilt. The citys local open-air
market takes place on Saturdays.
Antiguas two most important touring areas are St. Johns and
English Harbour.
Did you know?
British Admiral Horatio

Nelsons four-year stay
on Antigua in the late
1700s left an impression that islanders
would never forget.
The Dockyard, which
was in use decades
before he came and a
century after he left,
was eventually named
after him.
59
t of Tourism
Departmen
d Barbuda
Antigua an
Courtesy of
Visitors to the Dockyard can also take a footpath that leads to

Fort Berkeley at the entrance to English Harbour. Across the
harbor from this promontory are the former fortress and other
military remains at Shirley Heights. The vista from either
location takes in the harbor and the Dockyard and is stupendous. The ruins at Shirley Heights give a hint of what the
entire area looked like before restoration.
Clients who rent cars can start at Liberta for a tour of Fig
Tree Drive, a 20-mile circular drive across the islands main
mountain range. The road goes through a rain forest rich in
pineapples, mangoes, and banana trees (fig is the
yard
s Dock
Nelson
Antiguan word for banana). Visitors will pass by Boggy
Peak; at 1,319 feet, it is the highest point on the island.
And at another spot, they will be able to see where the Atlantic and
Caribbean waters meet; this marine phenomenon results in magical
color contrasts.
For those who like to explore, there are other abandoned forts,
ruined sugar mills, and strange megaliths from ancient times in the
interior of the island, as well as innumerable beaches and coves, each
with its own special scene or vista. Roads can be rough, so a fourwheel drive is helpful.
Did you know?
Adding to the list of

places to explore on
Antigua is Bettys
Hope, the only fully
operational wind-powered sugar mill in the
Caribbean. It was
restored and opened to
the public in 1995.
Bettys Hope is located
on the road toward
Long Bay and Devils
Bridge.
60
Accommodations on Antigua range from those right out of Robin

Leachs Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous to bed and breakfasts and
hotels off the beach that more cost-conscious clients can afford. The
most deluxe hideaways are architecturally stunning and decorated with
art and trendy styles from around the world. They have less than 100
rooms (and often far fewer) and tend to be secluded; therefore, even
though they are not all-inclusives, a MAP (Modified American Plan) or
AP (American Plan) is highly recommended.
Other accommodations on the island are all-inclusive and couplesonly, including a luxurious Sandals. There are four other all-inclusives
as well as two hotels where clients have their choice of all-inclusive or
strictly EP (European Plan).
Barbuda
Barbuda remains almost a wilderness island, appealing to those who
want to see an island much as it was before Columbuss time. Most of
the islands 1,500 residents live in the town of Codrington, which was
named after Barbudas original slaveholders. There are no paved roads
on the island, few restaurants, and only a few sights. But there are miles
of deserted, pink beaches and a chance for solitude in a natural setting.
Whats Special about Antigua

and Barbuda?
Antigua has complete water-sports programs around the island, though
many Caribbean destinations can say the same. In the sports of sailing
and yachting, though, it ranks in the top tier. Many avid sailors sail
from the United States for the yachting season. Those interested in diving, snorkeling, and windsurfing will also find that Antigua and
Barbuda have a special appeal; Antigua has a wide choice of locations
for these water sports, and Barbuda has many pristine spots waiting to
be explored. The waters and dozens of shipwrecks off Barbuda are considered a divers dream, but they are usually for the experienced, who
must come prepared. Few, if any, facilities are available on Barbuda.
Antiguas reputation for having 365 beaches, one for every day of the
year, is well known. Each has its own special appearance, shape, and
atmosphere. When you include Barbudas beaches, there are an extraordinary number to choose from.
Barbuda has two very luxurious hotels, belying its wilderness

reputation. K Club, Italian-designed and -built, is a haven for those
who want their privacy. Secluded Coco Point Lodge includes all meals
and is open only to guests staying on the property. Other accommodations include a couple of budget guesthouses or inns. There is no
in-between on Barbuda.
Barbudas chief sight is its central lagoon, which contains the largest
breeding and nesting colony of frigate birds found anywhere in the
world. The island is also home to plenty of other bird species, turtles,
lobster, and deer. The sole historic ruin is Martello Tower, believed to
have been built by the Spanish before the English arrived. Barbuda
could best be compared to one of the Bahamian Out Islands or the
British Virgin Islands, but it remains even less well known.
Did you know?
The half-mile-square,
uninhabited island of
Redonda belongs to
Antigua and Barbuda; it
lies about as far south
of Antigua as Barbuda
is north. This rockisland was once
covered mainly in
guano. In previous
centuries, hundreds of
tons of these bird
droppings were
shipped to other
countries and islands to
be used as fertilizer.
Today only a few
private boats stop to
observe the bird life.
Antiguas location makes it a special hub for nearby islands, both

British and non-British. The country of Antigua and Barbuda is one of
three in the Caribbean that unites two distinct islands into one nation
(St. Kitts and Nevis, and Trinidad and Tobago being the other two).
Island Culture
Antigua has a strong African-Caribbean flavor in music, dance, food,
and language. Other influences come from British, Lebanese, Syrian,
61
and Portuguese descendants. As on other Caribbean islands, reggae,

calypso, and steel-drum music are quite popular here.
However, strong ties to British culture remain in religion,
sports, and government. Many of the stars of West Indian
cricket teams have come from Antigua, including Viv
Richards, a superstar of worldwide cricket who retired in
1992. These teams participate internationally against Britain,
Pakistan, and other strong teams of the former British
Empire. Antiguans follow cricket with great enthusiasm.
Antigua
Studios in
ey/Tropical
in
Ra
y
Ja
Courtesy of
play
at
et team
A crick
Jamaica Kincaid, a well-known writer, was born on

Antigua. She has written extensively about the Caribbean,
both in her novels and in nonfiction. Two of her most
celebrated books are A Small Place, which is about
Antigua, and Autobiography of My Mother. Not all of her
works are flattering to life in her homeland.
For an island of its size and population, tourism has grown rapidly on
Antigua, much as it has on St-Martin and St. Thomas. The islands
tourism infrastructure is well suited to vacationers who want fabulous
beaches, modern shopping areas, some nightlife, and a little bit of the
local scene and history; such visitors will spend almost all their time at
the resorts in the northwest and around St. Johns. Those who want to
experience the islands culture as it was before all this commercial
development will have to venture into the interior.
Lobster, fish, cockles, and conch are favorites of both locals and visitors. Antiguans also feast on goat stew, saltfish, and various tropical
fruits and vegetables, such as cassava, breadfruit, taro, and mango. The
island rum named Cavalier is produced in a local brewery

The Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta and Sailing Week, of which the
regatta is a part, are the islands top events. Antiguas racing event is
known as the biggest and funniest regatta in the Caribbean. Sailing
competitions and festivities begin the last Sunday in April, as yachts
arrive from all over the world to participate. Yachting enthusiasts purposely wait until the high season has ended to concentrate on their
sport. Days are filled with racing, while nights are a frenzy of cocktail
parties, balls, and other social soires.
Carnival is celebrated on the first Monday and Tuesday of August in
commemoration of Emancipation Day (August 1, 1834). It has evolved
from a simple remembrance into a major celebration, beginning with a
62
parade of costumed characters and children followed by steel-drum bands. Both tourists and
locals line the streets, enjoying the festivities
until midnight of the second day.
Tennis Week (in January), Heritage Day
(October 31), and other regattas help round
out the calendar of events.
Barbudas own celebration, Caribana, takes
place in June. Bird watchers migrate to
Barbuda during November, when the
mating dance of the frigate bird is at its
most spectacular.
Courtesy of Jay
Elaborate
Rainey/Tropical
Studios in Antig
costumes
ua
a Carnival
highlight

Because there are a large number of all-inclusives, as well as other
hotels that are full-service or tucked away in their own coves, much
dining takes place where people are staying. Those who choose to venture to smaller local spots in St. Johns can sample excellent Caribbean
cuisine at moderate prices.
On Sunday and Thursday afternoons, Shirley Heights hosts a calypso and
reggae party. A perfect combination is to couple a morning sightseeing
trip to Nelsons Dockyard with the afternoon party on Shirley Heights.
The island has four casinos; a fifth is planned to open in the future.
Tourists spend most of their time at entertainment venues in all-inclusives, hotels, and mall areas such as the two Quays in St. Johns and the
Dockyard and Shirley Heights at English Harbour. Calypso, steel
bands, limbo dancers, and folkloric groups are popular forms of entertainment. Antigua has some of the best steel bands in the Caribbean.
The island also has a handful of independent nightclubs, and visitors
are very welcome.
Antigua is casual for the most part, but its British heritage and the
sophisticated atmosphere at some of the resorts add a bit of formality
to the evenings during high season. Be sure to check for dress codes at
restaurants and casinos.
Cruise Call
Cruises call at the two docks in St. Johns. One is right downtown; the
other is about a mile from the main part of town, but is located in a
63
huge shopping, restaurant, and casino complex. Visitors can see a lot in
St. Johns on their own. The islands chief sight, Nelsons Dockyard, is
across the island; those who wish to visit it must take an island tour,
which is offered aboard all cruise ships or can easily be planned with
taxi drivers at the dock. Basic tour prices are regulated. Other sights,
such as Clarence House, Fig Tree Drive, and Shirley Heights, can be
added for very reasonable sums. Taxis can also be rented by the hour
for little more than the price of a tour.
Selling Antigua and Barbuda

Antigua is the quintessential warm tropical island that appeals to resortgoers. U.S. visitors to Antigua and Barbuda tend to have already been to
the Bahamas or the Virgin Islands and are venturing a bit farther this
time. With its English-speaking residents, well-developed infrastructure,
and full-service or all-inclusive hotels, Antigua is certainly an island that
is also appropriate for first-time visitors to the Caribbean. However, few
first-timers are going to request Antigua, so you are better off staying
with a more well known choice for them.
The U.S. market for Antigua is primarily from the East Coast; visitors can
also use Antigua as a hub for connections to other Leeward Islands.
Barbuda is another story. With its few small luxury enclaves and otherwise undeveloped interior, it is slightly different from other luxury islands
weve discussed. Barbuda makes a good day trip from Antigua, but the
reverse is also true. Those seeking solitude for most of their trip might
wish to stay on Barbuda and then visit Antigua for a day or an overnight.
Agents developing the sailing, yachting, and boating niche markets will
have this destination high on their list. You might not need to make
arrangements for the yachtsmen who arrive under their own power.
However, you can make bookings for their friends and relatives who
come to visit and watch the regattas. With many snorkeling and scuba
spots, Aruba also rates high in this specialty. And then there are the
365 beaches, not even counting the ones on Barbuda.
Island Secret
Antiguas Half Moon Bay was chosen as the ultimate beach by the
Travel Channel in early 2000. In a program titled The Short List
Best of the Beaches, the channels search for the greatest beaches in
the world settled on Half Moon Bay as number one. (Runners-up
included beaches in Tahiti, Greece, and Spain.) Antigua also won
honors for having one of the five best beach sunsets in the world.
64
Key Points about Antigua and Barbuda

St. Johns and English Harbour
Nelsons Dockyard
365 beaches
1.
2.
3.
4.
Yachts and regattas

Heart of the British Leeward Islands
Barbudas wilderness

Antigua and Barbuda
Department of Tourism
610 Fifth Avenue, Suite 311
New York, NY 10020
Phone: 888-268-4227 or 212-541-4117
Fax: 212-541-4789
E-mail: info@antigua-barbuda.org
Web site: www.antigua-barbuda.org
65
Silver Hill
Rendezvous Bay
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Little Bay
Carrs Bay
MONTSERRAT
Woodlands
St. George
Hill
Soufrire
Hills
Volcano
Plymouth
CARIBBEAN SEA
Montserrat
66
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
2.0
Kilometers 3.2
Montserrat
I
n the past, Montserrat had always been committed to a quieter form

of tourism, one without big resorts, nightclubs, or commercialization.
Tourist facilities and organized water sports were somewhat undeveloped. Its Emerald Isle nickname came not only from its verdant colors but also from the Irish settlers who first colonized this tropical
island. Montserrat was blessed with lush green rain forests, waterfalls,
and black sandy beaches. However, in 1995 the islands Soufrire Hills
volcano erupted after lying dormant for centuries and devastated the
southern half of the island. Today this region is an exclusion zone, an
area that is not safe or legal to enter because of volcanic activity.
Work is taking place continuously to rebuild the islands infrastructure,
but no one knows what the volcano may do in the future. No doubt,
in years to come, Montserrat will return to an approximation of its former self. The events that began in 1995 have changed the landscape,
the islands natural sights, and the inhabitantsboth those who stayed
and those who left.
Fast Facts
Land Area
39 square miles
Population
4,000 (before 1995 it was 10,000)
Capital
Plymouth (the temporary capital is
spread out from Brades to St. Johns)
Languages
English
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Currency
Irish and English settlers began colonizing the island in 1632. Sugar
plantations were started but were not hugely successful on the rugged
landscape. With the abolition of slavery, the islands economy had little
to sustain it. France attempted twice to take possession but failed after
bitter fighting, and Montserrat became a British Crown colony in
1783. Later it was put in a federation with other British West Indies
colonies. When England offered these colonies independent statehood
in the 1960s, Montserrat was one of the states that chose to remain a
Crown colony. Subsequent hurricanes and volcanic eruptions have
proved that to be a wise decision. The islanders are a resilient and hardworking people known for their neighborliness; they have always
bounced back to make their island a pleasant place to live.
Electricity
Both 110 and 200 volts; check with
local hotels. Adapter plug and converter
may be required.
Earthquakes in the late 1800s, 1930s, and 1960s were all caused by the
volcano; these were warnings that something more serious might occur.
The island took a couple of years to recover from Hurricane Hugo in
1989; it was then devastated by its volcano in 1995. An encore in 1997
and plenty of minor ash clouds and rumblings to the present day have
kept scientists and officials visiting the southern part of the island.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Leeward Islands: Montserrat
67
More than 60 percent of Montserrats citizens have relocated to Britain

and other British Caribbean islands.

Nonstop service from North America to Montserrat has never been
available. In the past, most visitors arrived on the 15-minute flight from
Antigua. However, the airport closed in June 1997; as of late 2000,
tourist arrivals were by ferry and helicopter from Antigua. The highspeed ferry from Antigua arrives at Port Little Bay at the islands northern tip; the trip takes only 55 minutes. The 20-minute helicopter flight
lands at Geralds Heliport in the islands northern center. Montserrat
remains popular for yachts, charter boats, and some small cruise ships.
Roads traditionally have been in good repair, but they are winding,
mountainous, and narrow; those renting cars should be aware of this.
Most visitors to the island are well served by taxis and buses. Distances
on the northern half of the island are not far.

The northern half of the island boasts lush landscapes, nature sanctuaries, tiny beaches in coves, and the ruins of plantations. In the south,
the former capital of Plymouth is deserted and has been effectively
destroyed by the volcano. Two overlooks give good vantage points
from which to view the ash-covered city: St. George Hill, which is
1,200 feet above Plymouth, and Garibaldi Hill, which is accessible only
by four-wheel drive. Authorities close the vantage points whenever they
are deemed to be unsafe. When clouds part, visitors can get a peek of
the upper slopes of Soufrire Hills Volcano. Craters lie steaming, and
precipitous walls of hot lava wait to cascade into the valley, forming the
volcanic rock flows that have inundated the southern half of the island.
Once-deserted villages are slowly coming back to life. At the islands former airport, lava flows sped down the northeastern sides of the mountain
and burned their way through the departure lounge onto the fringes of the
runway; when the area finally becomes safe, visitors may be able to get a
glimpse of this sight. Isolated buildings among the ash and debris remain
intact, spared from the destruction. At present, the thrill of safely experiencing the volcanos might is unpredictable; the volcano is still too active to
allow definite observation zones or interpretive centers to be set up.
68
Montserrats beaches are mainly strips of volcanic sand in coves.

They offer few beach or water-sport facilities. Three of the
most frequented beaches in the north are at Rendezvous Bay,
Little Bay, and Carrs Bay. Among the best beaches is
Woodlands, where one can swim through caves; a variety of
small accommodations are available here. Silver Hill and
other mountainous areas of the interior have good hiking
trails and excellent nature walks.
In the past, most accommodations were in the Plymouth
area; they are now either destroyed or in the exclusion
zone. New hotels and guesthouses have been built on the
northern side of the island, adding to the few that were
already there. Private villas, some for rent, are options of
a more luxurious nature.
Courte
sy of Monts
errat Touris
Rendez
t Board
vous B
ay Bea
ch
Whats Special about Montserrat?

Hiking in the northern part of the island is still a very popular activity.
The trail to The Cot goes to a ruined banana plantation that was
once the former summer cottage of an influential family. Silver Hills
Trail in the far north is the islands oldest volcanic center, but the volcano has been extinct for eons. The trail boasts spectacular bird
colonies, and hikers can see what the lava deposits of the south might
look like in a million years. Other trails lead down cliffs to beaches or
into the interior to waterfalls.
Those who approach by boat and bring their own gear can enjoy the
islands underwater beauty. Montserrats marine environment is quite
pristine due to the islands small population and moderate levels of
tourism, even in better times. One dive shop also operates in the north.
Island Culture
Montserrats culture was shaped by African slaves and Irish settlers from
nearby St. Kitts. Aspects of Irish tradition are still seen today in the names
of places and people and in folklore, symbols, and cuisine. The people are
outgoing and friendly, and proud of their island. Many of Montserrats
citizens have fought to stay here in spite of the volcanos eruption; others
have been emotionally devastated by the destruction. More and more
evacuees have been returning as the island seeks some normalcy.
Montserrat has always had a strong musical heritage, and that tradition
remains vital today. Calypso musicians use improvisations in their songs,
69
commenting on current events, politics, and cultural life. Islanders are

quite engaging and willing to tell visitors their latest opinions on anything
from island matters to world affairs. Although Montserrats culture derives
mainly from its African heritage, some remnants of Irish folk culture can
still be seen, including shamrocks, Irish names, and step dances. The
islands national dish, goatwater, is said to be derived from Irish stew.
Northern Montserrat was once home to George Martins Air Studios.
The one-time producer was host to the Rolling Stones, Stevie Wonder,
Elton John, and other famous artists who came to the island to record.
Before 1995 the island was a quiet haven for a number of North
American and British retirees, and it remains so today.

Carnival is held during the Christmas and New Years holidays, with
costumed revelers taking to the streets. New Years Eve or Festival
Day begins with street jump-ups at sunrise, followed by costume
competitions, steel-band music, and parties until many rush to church
at midnight.
The cultural influences of Ireland and Great Britain is seen in the fact
that St. Patricks Day in March and the Queens Birthday in June are
both celebrated with gusto.

Fine dining was limited before 1995 and is even more so today. The 26
spots listed in current island literature include a variety of local, Creole,
and American-style cuisines. Famous for their neighborliness, the snack
bars, beach bars, and small rustic restaurants will leave patrons with an
authentic island experience. Goatwater, a variant of Irish stew, is the
dish to try, but a good selection of other dishesfrom hamburgers to
frogs legsis also available.
Montserrat always was a quiet island, but islanders love their music.
Liming (hanging out) is a local tradition in the island bars. Meeting
the people of Montserrat will be a highlight of a visit.
Cruise Call
Montserrat never received large cruise ships, and that situation is not
expected to change anytime soon. However, a few of the Windjammer
Cruises and other small ships do occasionally stop here.
70
Selling Montserrat
Montserrat is not for the average vacationer. Hikers and divers might
be interested in visiting if they crave something different. A small market
consists of those who might wish to observe the volcano and see how
people are coping and rebuilding. The round-trip helicopter service from
Antigua will also provide a unique experience. It is both efficient and
moderate in cost.
Island Secret
Montserrats main secrets today probably lie in the hearts and minds of
the people. Human beings long for home; when home has been ravaged by nature time and time again, it takes a strong and optimistic
spirit to return and reclaim it. When the alternative is being a stranger
in a new land, whether it be in the Caribbean or in Britain, ones
homeland beckons even more. As the people of Montserrat return, they
are the best hidden surprises that visitors are likely to encounter.
Key Points about Montserrat

Emerald Isle
1.
2.
Current arrivals by ferry or helicopter from Antigua
3.
Half the island is a safe zone; the other half is an exclusion zone
4.
Hiking and diving

Montserrat Tourist Board
P.O. Box 7
Plymouth, Montserrat, West Indies
Phone: 664-491-2230 or 664-491-8730
Fax: 664-491-7430
E-mail: mrattouristboard@candw.ag
Web site: www.visitmontserrat.com
71
EASTERN CARIBBEANTHE WINDWARD ISLANDS
GUADELOUPE
DOMINICA
MARTINIQUE
ST. LUCIA
ST. VINCENT
Bequia
Petit Nevis
THE GRENADINES
BARBADOS
Mustique
Canouan
Mayreau
Tobago Cays
Union
Palm Island
Petit St. Vincent
GRENADA
72
Eastern Caribbean
The Windward Islands
The southern section of the crescent of the Lesser Antilles is called the
Windward Islands, due to its greater exposure to prevailing ocean winds.
Some geographers and guidebooks place Guadeloupe in the Leeward Islands,
and some place it in the Windward Islands. We have opted to place it here
because of its topography and cultural affinity with islands to the south.
Strictly speaking, Barbados is in the Atlantic Ocean, 150 miles east of the
curve of the Windward Islands.
Guadeloupe
Dominica
Martinique
St. Lucia
Barbados
Grenada
73
ATLANTIC OCEAN
La Pointe de la Grand Vigie

Porte dEnfer
GUADELOUPE
Ste-Rose
Lamentin
Basse-Terre
Ilet Pigeon
Le Moule
Rivire
Sale
Porte dEnfer
Grande Anse
Grande-Terre
Pointe--Pitre
Ste-Anne
Maison
Zvalos
Gosier
La Route
de la Traverse
Le Parc
National
La Soufrire
(volcano)
La Dsirade
Pointe Tarare
Pointe des Chteaux
St-Franois
Plage de la
Caravelle
Ilet du Gosier
Carbet Falls
Capesterre
tang As
de Pique
Basse-Terre
Marie-Galante
Parc Archologique
Ilet Cabrit
Le Bourg
Terre-de-Bas
Terre-de-Haut
Grand let
Les Saintes
CARIBBEAN SEA
Guadeloupe
74
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
14
Kilometers 22.5
Guadeloupe
T
he shape of Guadeloupe (ghwah duh LOOP) has been likened to a

butterfly. The two island wings are actually divided by the narrow
Rivire Sale (Salt River) and could be considered separate islands.
Each is quite different. Basse-Terre, the larger of the two, is mountainous with a rugged coastline and a partially active volcano. Le Parc
National, with many hiking trails and scenic wonders, covers most of
the land. Grande-Terre hosts more visitors because of its beautiful
beaches and the string of resort properties built along them.
Guadeloupe, known as the Island of Beautiful Waters, is about 20
percent larger than its sister French island, Martinique. It also has three
sets of offshore islands and a more diverse populationfacts that add
to its distinct self-image. It is the second-largest island in the Lesser
Antilles (Trinidad is the largest) and is a varied destination. Vacationers
can laze at a top beach resort for days on end, shop at some of the
Caribbeans best outdoor markets, or tour volcanoes, rain forests, and
lesser-developed satellite islands.
Fast Facts
Land Area
530 square miles
Population
430,000
Main Island: 410,000
Marie-Galante: 13,000
Terre-de-Haute: 1,600
Terre-de-Bas: 1,000
La Dsirade: 1,600
Capital
Basse-Terre (However, Pointe--Pitre is
the major city.)
Languages
French, Creole
Time Zone
Guadeloupe is one of the string of islands in the Lesser Antilles that
alternated between English and French control in the 1600s and
1700s, falling under lasting French control in 1815. By this time, the
sugar industry was waning, and Guadeloupes slaves achieved emancipation in 1848 at the urging of French cabinet minister Victor
Schoelcher (see Martinique).
Today Guadeloupe is an overseas department of France with full
representation in the French parliament. So people born in Guadeloupe
are full French citizens. The French side of St-Martin and the island of
St-Barthlemy are part of the department of Guadeloupe as far as
political divisions are concerned, though they are considered separate
destinations for tourism purposes.
Drive on
Right
Currency
Euro
Electricity
plug and converter are necessary.
The following outline shows the political divisions of the French West
Indies, though such minutiae seldom enter into consideration of island
choices for tourists.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: Guadeloupe
75
Martinique Department
Guadeloupe Department
Guadeloupe
Marie-Galante
La Dsirade
Les Saintes
St-Martin (French half of the island shared with the Dutch)

Flights land at Pointe--Pitre, Grande-Terre, near the center of the
island. Most Americans connect in San Juan or in Miami for frequent
flights to Pointe--Pitre. Sleek, comfortable catamaran-ferries also
connect Guadeloupe with neighboring islandsMartinique, Dominica,
and St. Lucia.
When you view a map of the island, think of the eastern side/southern
coast as the half with the most beach resorts, and the western side of
the island as the area with the lush mountains and tropical forests.
From Pointe--Pitre to the easternmost point along the southern coast
of Grande-Terre are many of the best beaches and more than 80
percent of the islands resort hotel rooms. For those seeking a
Caribbean beach vacation, its just a matter of picking the right hotel
with the loveliest location along this 20-mile strip. The northern part
of Grande-Terre is covered in miles of sugarcane fields and mangrove
swamps. Former plantations and old windmills dot the land. The
northern Atlantic coast of Grande-Terre is somewhat rugged, with cliffs
at waters edge; yet gentle hills and plains make it relatively flat
compared to Basse-Terre.
Basse-Terres landscape is a complete contrast. The few hotels along its
coasts and in the interior have excellent locations overlooking the sea or
rain forests. Le Parc National makes up about 50 percent of the interior. Visitors can easily circle and sightsee Basse-Terre on a days driving
trip from the beaches of Grande-Terre, but a few days stay in the interior gives more time to explore in depth and serves as a contrast to the
beach. Two bridges unite the southern coast of Grande-Terre with
Basse-Terre.
The offshore islands are much less developed for tourism and are most
often used as day trips, but accommodations are available on most of
76
them for those who want a quiet getaway. They can be reached by
ferry or plane.
The airport lies a few miles north of Pointe--Pitre; a bus connects the
two. Very few tourists stay in town, however. Taxi transfers are available
to the many locations along the south coast.
If visitors stay anywhere other than the resort-filled southern coast of
Grande-Terre, they will probably rent a car; in most cases, they have
little choice. Buses do serve the main road between Pointe--Pitre and
Basse-Terre and can be waved down anywhere, but to see le Parc
National in the interior requires a car rental or a tour. Roads are very
good, though the ones on Basse-Terre are challenging.
Ferry service is available to the three offshore island groups. The
crossings take about an hour or less; however, the seas can be choppy.
Flights are available for those who prefer to avoid rough water, but
they arent necessarily any more convenient than the ferry from most
hotel locations.

Grande-Terre
Guadeloupes major city of Pointe--Pitre (pwahnt uh PEE
treh) is on the island of Grand-Terre (grahnd TAIR). Certain
sections have 19th-century French architecture and there is an
interesting Caribbean market, but the traffic, noise, and commercial aspect of the city can lessen the charm for visitors.
The 100,000-inhabitant metropolitan area has a suburban,
European aspect to it rather than a Caribbean one. Highrise apartment complexes, shopping malls, and freeways add
to this overall impression.
Tour
Courtesy
of Joe Petro
ist Offic
cik
However, travelers staying at the beach resorts may want
e in Po
inte--P
itre
to visit the big city at least once. Here they can shop,
stroll in the park or market, or visit one or two museums and
Place de la Victoire. Little rubber-tired trains provide tourists with a
guided tour (plus commentary) of the city, but it is easy and interesting
to walk the city also. The Muse Schoelcher memorializes many of the
personal items of the French politician Victor Schoelcher who helped
abolish slavery in 1848, while the Muse Saint John Perse is a tribute
to the Guadeloupean-born Nobel Prize winner for literature.
77
Visitors should also stop at the open-air and covered markets, not only
for their treasures and foods but also because of the animated
exchanges of the tradeswomen garbed in brightly colored madras.
Just east of the city is Fort Fleur dpe, scene of some FrenchEnglish battles, and the large Aquarium Guadeloupe. East of Pointe-Pitre begins the islands 20-mile stretch of exquisite beaches and the
resorts on them. In general, the beaches closest to the capital are the
most crowded. They become emptier as you go east, but each resort
complex is full of vacationers. Construction of new hotels has
continued eastward.
The first town is Gosier (go zee AY), with plenty of big hotels, inns,
cafs, bars, and shops. It is set along the coast and rises into the hills
behind it, from which point one can see the island of Marie-Galante and
the Les Saintes. The tiny islet, let du Gosier, is great for picnics.
Between Gosier and Ste-Anne, condominiums and hotels line
the beach in many places with hills and cliffs in the background.
At Ste-Anne begins the outstanding Plage de la Caravelle, a
long, reef-protected stretch of sand, and home to Club Med.
More beaches line the coast from St.-Franois to the narrow
promontory extending east to the rugged Pointe des
Chteaux. Part of a national park, Pointe des Chteaux is a
seascape of crashing Atlantic waves carving castle-like shapes
out of the cliffs and rocks. The most remote strands of
beach are refuges for nude bathing. St.-Franois, a sleepy
e Petrocik
Jo
of
sy
te
fishing village not very long ago, is now the site of luxury
Cour
aux
s Chte
e
d
resorts, many catering to jet-setters. It has an
e
t
oin
ks at P
c
o
r
le
t
airport for small private aircraft, a golf course, and a
Cas
marina. Pointe Tarare has a nudist beach.
Travelers might also want to take a trip through the northern twothirds of Grande-Terre, passing through miles of silvery-green seas of
sugarcane. Some of the sights include:
Maison Zvalos, once the manor house of one of the islands largest
sugar plantations
Porte dEnfer (Hells Gate), where two jagged cliffs are battered by
the wild Atlantic
Le Moule, the original capital of Guadeloupe. This port city retains
some of its original charm
La Pointe de la Grande Vigie, the islands northernmost tip, where
the views are stunning
78
Basse-Terre
Basse-Terres (bahs TAIR) half of the island (although actually it is a
separate island) is the most scenic and draws the most sightseers. A
road circles the entire coast, and you can take it in either direction after
crossing one of the bridges from Grande-Terre. La Route de la
Traverse (Transcoastal Highway) also crosses the middle of the island
and goes through the heart of the Parc National. Basse-Terre is packed
with sights that can be viewed on a one-day drive or explored over
several days.
Le Parc National contains the Cascade aux Ecrvisses
(Crayfish Falls), lush rain forests, mahogany and bamboo trees,
tame animals, and numerous hiking and nature trails. A pass
that runs between Les Mamelles (two mountains, each about
2,500 feet high) affords spectacular views. For less strenuous
activity, the Parc Zoologique et Botanique (Zoological Park
and Botanical Gardens) are a pleasure to explore.
Most people access the park from the Transcoastal
Courtesy of
Highway. However, if you approach it from the south, you
A wate
Clement-Pe
trocik Co.
rfall at
Le Parc
will find the most spectacular sight in the park and indeed
Nationa
l
in all of Guadeloupe: La Soufrire (lah SOO free ayr)
volcano. A road twists from the city of Basse-Terre up to a parking
area; from there, the very hardy can hike two hours to the summit.
Each volcano in the Caribbean is in its own state, and La Soufrire is
still quite active. Although it posed no danger at the time of writing, it
last showed alarming activity in the 1970s, and at one point thousands
of people were evacuated. Rumbles, steam, and sulphurous fumes are
frequent, and visitors should heed any warnings. Other smaller craters,
lava pools, and volcanic remains lie in the vicinity. The summit is often
clouded or fogged in, giving it an eerie, fascinating feel; at times of
clear visibility, the views are striking.
Basse-Terre also has other attractions:
The city of Basse-Terre remains the capital of Guadeloupe, even
after being superseded in importance by Pointe--Pitre. It was
founded in 1640 and has endured attacks, hurricanes, and the sputterings of La Soufrire. Its narrow streets, old buildings, relaxed
pace, and lovely setting give it a charming aspect compared to
Grand-Terre. From picnic tables in suburban St.-Claude, visitors can
see the volcano on a clear day.
tang As de Pique is a five-acre lake 2,450 feet above Basse-Terre.
The Parc Archologique (Archaeological Park) on the south coast
contains pre-Columbian rock carvings.
79
Splendid Chutes du Carbet is another sight not to be missed. After a

steep, narrow drive, visitors must negotiate a slippery path to reach
the falls viewing points at the 65-foot, 360-foot, and 410-foot levels.
The northern coast has very nice beaches at Lamentin and
Ste-Rose, as well as Grande Anse, one of the best in Guadeloupe.
The Offshore Islands

Marie-Galante, the largest of Guadeloupes offshore islands, is circular,
covering 60 square miles. Sugarcane fields, ruined sugar mills, and rum
distilleries make up much of this island relatively undiscovered by
tourists, where few locals speak English. La Cohoba, a brand-new 100room hotel, opened in 1999. Otherwise, most accommodations are in
inn-like establishments and apartments of 6 to 15 rooms.
Les Saintes, an eight-island archipelago, lie off the south coast of
Basse-Terre. Only three of these islands are inhabited. Terre-de-Haut
receives both day-trippers and those staying for a longer time. Terre-deBas is almost as large, but it is not developed for tourism. Tiny let
Cabrit north of Terre-de-Haut has only a few inhabitants.
Terre-de-Haut, only five square miles, is the most visited of Les
Saintes. Walking is the major means of transport, though motor
scooters are also available. Its barren landscape was never planted
with sugarcane, so slaves were never brought to the island, leaving
it populated mostly by French descendants. Small fishing villages in
the south contrast with vacation villas to the north. Le Bourg, the
main town, has four or five picturesque streets with colorful homes
and carefully tended gardens. There are a number of small hotels
and villas. Many day-trippers visit Terre-de-Haut, as this is the easiest island to reach from Guadeloupe.
Terre-de-Bas, the other inhabited island of Les Saintes, was once
covered by sugar plantations, and its population is mostly of African
descent. Today fishing is its biggest occupation. It is about the
same size as Terre-de-Haut but has fewer inhabitants. The sights
include a fort, a charming town, some lovely beaches, and one
small new hotel.
La Dsirade, off Guadeloupes east coast, has a pretty church, two
hotels (with a total of 15 rooms at last count), and a handful of bars and
restaurants. Its economy relies mainly on fishing. There is little tourism
other than the day trips from the mainland to its attractive beaches.
80
Whats Special about Guadeloupe?

French vacationers love to participate in water sports of every kind, so
just about every aquatic activity under the sun is available at major
resorts and beaches. Internationally known organizations and experts
have singled out Guadeloupe as having some of the best facilities and
locations in the world for yachting, diving, and windsurfing.
Those who love bicycling can either participate in or watch competitive
events (try flat Grande-Terre rather than Basse-Terre). Le Parc National
in Basse-Terre is one of the Caribbeans foremost hiking spots. Hikes
can be undertaken on ones own with maps from the national park
office, but guided hikes are also available.
The French islands are among the few in the Caribbean that have
decent camping facilities and encourage the practice. Shopping for
French goods is excellent. Visitors should be reminded not only to
shop the boutiques and open-air markets but also to visit a French
department store for the best prices.
Island Culture
Most of what is said about the French influence on Martinique (see
Martinique) can also be said of Guadeloupe. But the people of
Guadeloupe, who were under Martiniques administrative control until
they rebelled after the French Revolution, tend to be a bit more independent and a bit more West Indies-oriented. A movement for independence from France has had adherents off and on during the last
century, but part of the reason that the island enjoys a high standard of
living is the support it receives from France.
If you picture a man from Guadeloupe getting his baguette

and croissant from the local ptisserie and walking through
the market talking to a woman wearing a colorful madras
dress with matching head-scarf, then you have a good
image of French-Caribbean Guadeloupe.
Courtesy of
Marc Garang
er
The islands predominantly French culture is immediately

apparent in the language, as well as in the architecture and
food. Most people speak Creole in addition to the French they
learn in school. The strong influence of African styles and
even of Hindu and West Indian cultures creates a fascinating
Creole mix.
Young
woman
in madr
as head
dress
Food is one of the added attractions of a destination that

already has many dimensions. French influence on Caribbean produce
81
and spices has produced Creole cuisine blends found nowhere else.
Stuffed crabs, cod fritters, blood sausage, Caribbean-style conch and
lobster, and spicy fish stew are just some of the specialties, which translate as crabes farcies, accras, boudin, lambi, langouste, and blaff on the
menu. Accompanied by imported French wine, these dishes can be followed by a dessert of native fruitsguava, papaya, mango, pineapple,
and coconut. Ti Punch, a heady concoction of rum, sugarcane syrup,
and lime juice, is the local drink.
Did you know?
Alexis Saint-Lger, who

wrote under the pseudonym Saint-John
Perse, was born in
Guadeloupe in 1887 to
a family who had lived
in the French Antilles
for 200 years. When he
was a boy, his family
moved back to France,
where he became not
only a high-ranking
minister of foreign
affairs but also a
renowned poet. After
Germany overran
France in 1940, he was
strongly opposed to his
countrys pro-German
Vichy government. He
was subsequently
exiled and lived the rest
of his life in the United
States. He wrote most
of his poetry over the
next 20 years and won
the Nobel Prize for
literature in 1960. A
museum in Pointe-Pitre is dedicated to
him.
Music lovers will enjoy the African-French zouk dance music, which is
also very popular in France. Topless bathing is prevalent around hotel
pools and resort beaches, but not always where local people congregate. One or two beaches are designated as nudist beaches, but nude
bathing may take place in other secluded areas.

Carnival is the major celebration of the year in this largely Catholic
country. It takes place during the pre-Lenten season of February or
March, depending on the religious calendar. Anyone going after the
first of the year, however, should check for activities, because events
start to pick up in early January. The usual Mardi Gras floats, parades,
dances, and festivities prevail, but Guadeloupes Carnival is one of the
Caribbeans best.
Early August sees La Fte des Cuisinires (Festival of Women Cooks),
during which women dressed in Creole garb parade through the streets
of Pointe--Pitre carrying wicker baskets filled with their own culinary
specialties. The festivities include singing, dancing, and a banquet of
the prepared delicacies, which visitors are invited to sample. The Tour
de la Guadeloupe, a 10-day mini-Tour de France cycling race, also
takes place in August.

Like Martinique, Guadeloupe has culinary delights. Diners can choose
from hundreds of restaurants, many of them right on the shore. Even
the hotel restaurants are fine, but this isnt the place to sell MAP
(Modified American Plan) to those who love to dine because there are
so many places to sample. Most of the top spots feature Creole-French
cuisine, but diners will also find Classic French and the latest French
cooking, as well as fine Italian, African, Indian, Vietnamese, and South
American offerings.
Both the nightspots at the fine resorts and the bars and discothques
82
around the island offer nighttime entertainment, which often features

music typical of this part of the Antilles: the beguine, which
Guadeloupe (as well as St-Martin, Martinique, and St. Lucia) says it
invented, and zouk, the craze of the past decade. Those who prefer
swinging sounds of a calmer sort can join the French in their love of
jazz. Casinos are available at Gosier and St-Franois on the southern
coast of Grande-Terre.
Cruise Call
Ships usually dock right in the heart of Pointe--Pitre, giving passengers a chance to visit the islands major town, its sights, and its shops
and markets on their own. The city has character and is large and
diverse enough to absorb large numbers of visitors at one time. Its
economy is not totally dependent on tourism. But the friendliness and
respect visitors show locals is reciprocated, especially by those encountered in the markets.
The city has glossy boutiques and neat cafs, as well as boarded-up
buildings and congestion. Those who expect a shiny facade and shops
catering solely to tourists will be disappointed. They may be better off
taxiing directly to the beaches on the south coast or taking a half-day
tour. The usual tour will spend a brief time in the city and then focus
on the lush beauty of Basse-Terre with a stop in le Parc National and
perhaps at a rum factory.
Selling Guadeloupe
Clients visiting Guadeloupe are getting several islands for the price of
one. People who like diversity can easily spend two weeks without
exhausting the destination. Culture appreciators will be in their element, as will be any clients who prefer nude beaches. Still, less than 4
percent of overnight visitors are from the United States, compared to
81 percent from France.
The beaches, volcanoes, tropical atmosphere, and West Indies culture
make visiting Guadeloupe different from visiting a province in France.
However, to a certain degree clients need to approach a trip here the
same way as if they were going to France. The partying, resort crowd
who want a carbon copy of a conventional American resort may not
enjoy the totally foreign ambiance at French resorts. The vast majority
of vacationers are French or French-Canadian, and most conversations
are in French.
83
But those who love the Caribbean and are looking for something a bit
exotic will find Guadeloupes diverse attractions a rich experience.
Travelers who enjoy discovering the island they are on, as opposed to
staying put at a resort for a week, should enjoy Guadeloupe.
Did you know?
As reported in the
Travel Industry World
Yearbook, the
Caribbean Tourism
Organization found that
4,500 U.S. citizens
stayed overnight in
Guadeloupe during
1998. Thats an average of only 12 arrivals
a day. For an island of
its size, culture, and
natural attributes,
Guadeloupe remains
relatively untouched by
Americans and is a
prime candidate for
early adopters or
those who like to be
one of the first ones on
their block to have
been to an undiscovered vacation
destination.
Those who like to imagine themselves discovering a little island before

mass tourism sets in (but still prefer the comfort of a hotel) might find
Terre-de-Haut in Les Saintes just the ticket. Once they arrive on the
ferry, they should go to a secluded beach away from town until the
ferry returns in the afternoon; this will allow them to avoid the throng
of day-trippers. The same can be said for Marie-Galante, though one
large hotel-villa complex has now been built.
Knowing a bit of French will ease the transition for American visitors. A
phrase book of basic French might be helpful for restaurants and other
situations, but those used to traveling in foreign lands with a smile,
goodwill, and patience will have no trouble.
Island Secret
The island has fine snorkeling and scuba-diving, but so do most other
Caribbean destinations. Ilet Pigeon (Pigeon Island), however,
received praise as one of the top 10 dive spots in the world from none
other than the late Jacques Cousteau. Pigeon Island is located just off
the middle of the west coast of Basse-Terre, near the town of Mahaut.
A number of dive companies are located nearby.
Keys Points about Guadeloupe

Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre
Southern beaches from Gosier eastward
Pointe--Pitre and Basse-Terre
Le Parc National and La Soufrire
Offshore islands: Marie-Galante, La Dsirade, and Les Saintes
French and Creole culture
84

Guadeloupe Tourist Office, c/o French Government Tourist Office
New York, NY 10022
Phone: 800-391-4909 or 410-286-8311 (for travel agents)
or 410-286-8310 (for general public)
Fax: 212-838-7855
E-mail: info@lesilesdeguadeloupe.com
Web site: www.antilles-info-tourisme.com/guadeloupe/
Guadeloupe Tourist Office in Guadeloupe:
Phone: (011) 590-590-82-09-30
Fax: (011) 590-590-83-89-22
85
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Calibishie
Cabrits National Park
Melville Hall
Airport
Prince Rupert Bay
Portsmouth
Marigot
Morne Diablotin
National Park
Layou River
Valley
Emerald
Pool
DOMINICA
Canefield
Airport
Boeri Lake
Laudat
Layou
Carib Indian
Territory
Roseau
Morne Trois Pitons National Park

Freshwater Lake
Boiling Lake
Trafalgar
Valley of
Falls
Desolation
Geneva
Estate
Soufrire Bay
Scotts Head/
Soufrire Marine Park
CARIBBEAN SEA
Dominica
86
Capital
City or town
Attraction
Miles
Kilometers
4
6.2
Dominica
D
ominica (dahm uh NEE kuh) is quite different from any other

Caribbean island. It has few beaches and no large resorts.
However, Dominica is the nature island of the Caribbean, a wonderland of tropical rain forests and mountains, laced with 365 rivers, and
home to a boiling volcanic lake. While other islands work at preserving
their ecosystems, Dominicas flora and fauna lie secluded, much of it
still untouched by modern development and human encroachment.
The last Caribbean island to be colonized by Europeans, Dominica is
home to the only Carib Indian territory and indigenous people in the
Caribbean. The island is also the site of three national parks, including
the Caribbeans first UNESCO-classified World Heritage Site. Plenty of
soft adventure and nature walks make it an ecotourists delight; but
the island also offers challenging hikes for the more adventurous,
including one that is a legend in hiking circles. Dominica appeals to
those who prefer cool waterfalls, dark forests, and rainy mountain trails
rather than acres of golden sand, hot sun, and emerald seas.
Fast Facts
Land Area
289 square miles
Population
75,000
Capital
Roseau
Languages
English, French Creole
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Currency
Eastern Caribbean dollar
Dominicas unusual topography helped determine its unique history.
While other islands were being colonized and planted in the 1600s and
early 1700s, Dominicas rugged interior provided a natural refuge for
the Carib Indians and an inferior agricultural base for the plantation
system. Dominicas position between Frances other two island
colonies, Martinique and Guadeloupe, finally worked against it in
1748; at that time, the French invaded in strength, mercilessly annihilating most of the resisting Caribs. The surviving Caribs retreated to a
stronghold near the wild Atlantic coast and were allowed to inhabit it
as long as they remained peaceful. In 1902 the territory officially
became their reservation in perpetuity.
Electricity
220 volts, 50 cycles AC. An adapter is
required.
In the meantime, the English eventually gained control of Dominica,

though the islands language and place-names still reflect its French
heritage. This cultural amalgam is similar to neighboring islands.
However, Dominicas history took a twist when, because of its topography and independent spirit, it became a refuge for any slave who
could escape from another island. Even with these immigrants,
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: Dominica
87
Dominica has the smallest population of the Windward Islands, despite

being one of the largest of the islands in surface area. This is probably
due to the fact that it had relatively few plantations.
Did you know?
Dominica is pronounced
dahm uh NEE kuh. You
should be sure to place
it in its proper geographical location when
you first introduce it, so
clients dont confuse it
with the Dominican
Republic. Further confusion comes from the
fact that the Dominican
Republics official name
in Spanish is Republica
de Dominicana. People
from the latter are
do MIN icans; people
from Dominica are
dom i NEE cans.
Dominica remains one of the least developed of the Caribbean islands.

Though topography is the main reason, bad luck also took its toll.
Soon after Dominica became independent in 1979, a hurricane
destroyed much of the islands housing; for the next few years, most
resources had to be channeled into rebuilding.

There are two airports on the island. Most flights arrive at the busier
Melville Hall airport on the northeastern part of the island. The drive
from this airport to Roseau, the capital, takes about an hour and 20
minutes. Many accommodation choices and many of the most popular
natural sights are in the area around Roseau. Visitors spending time at
the few beaches and hotels in the north will be closer to Melville Hall
airport. Canefield airport, just north of Roseau, receives some smaller
interisland flights.
Neither of these airports has nonstop flights from American or
European cities. A connection through San Juan, Barbados, or Antigua
is most convenient for the bulk of American travelers. Additional flights
connect the island with Barbados, Guadeloupe, Martinique, and St.
Lucia, all of which receive some flights directly from the United States.
There are beautiful forests, cliffs, mountains, and other vistas throughout the island, but the most well-known natural sights are in the south.
The majority of accommodations are in the area around Roseau; along
the coast between Roseau and Canefield; and inland from Roseau
toward the national park in the center of the southern half of the island.
The Carib Indian territory is about two-thirds up the east coast of the
island and close to the Melville Hall airport and the town of Marigot.
Ferry service connects Dominica with the neighboring islands of
Martinique, Guadeloupe, and St. Lucia.
Dominica is ideal for an adventurous independent tour by rental car.
Roads have been recently paved. Though there are occasional potholes,
for the most part highways are in good condition compared to many
islands with better economies. Highways run along most of the coast,
88
enabling drivers to make a circle tour around the island. Distances are
not far by the mile, but drivers can spend days of adventurous travel on
winding roads, while enjoying magnificent scenes, fascinating stopovers,
and side trips for hikes. On the other hand, travelers can see a lot by
taking day trips from one base.
Most tours by taxi, four-wheel drive, van, or minibus depart from
Roseau or the north coast, but they can be arranged at the clients
hotel. Shuttle buses run from Melville Hall airport to the capital.
Public buses (minivans) run on set routes and can be used for one-way
trips or certain round trips by clients who are flexible. Seeing island life
by bus provides an extra soupon of flavor to a tour. However, buses are
not convenient for seeing most of the interior sights.

Dominica is a tropical greenhouse with beautiful sights and views
all over the island, but well start with the Roseau area and move
outward from there.
Roseau is almost everybodys first stop in Dominica. Many people get
their bearings here, visit the botanical gardens and museum, plan their
trips into the tropical jungle, and hire necessary guides for the more
ambitious and strenuous treks. Visitors can start at Old Market Square
and the tourist information center and then buy their picnic or trekking
provisions at New Market, at the mouth of the Roseau River. A majority
of the islands citizens live in the city and its immediate surroundings.
Tiny cafs and craft shops are tucked into small buildings of three
stories or less with corrugated aluminum roofs. Buildings of note
include the National Park Office, which is fittingly situated in the 40acre Botanical Gardens. The gardens are a must-see for anyone visiting the islands. Besides the vast variety of native tropical plants, the
gardens hold specimens of the rare Jacquot and Sisseou parrots, which
hikers can hope to see in the wild. A very unusual sight is a large bus
crushed beneath a massive baobab tree; this happened during the
destruction caused by Hurricane David in 1979. Also of interest in
Roseau are the State House, Parliament, and other public buildings.
Inland from Roseau

Trafalgar Falls are five miles from Roseau in the river valley. The falls
lie beyond the village of Trafalgar and can be reached in a 20-minute
walk. Ginger plants and vanilla orchids line the trail to the trio of cascades that fall into a rock-strewn pool.
89
Courtesy of Dominica Touirst OfficeNY
Trafalgar
Falls,
near Roseau
Did you know?
In 1998 Morne Trois

Pitons National Park
was classified by
UNESCO as the
Caribbeans second
World Heritage Site
(and the only one in the
eastern Caribbean).
Sites are chosen based
on their outstanding
universal value to the
worlds heritage.
90
Seven miles from Roseau is the village of Laudat and Titou Gorge,
where a water-filled, narrow canyon winds along the base of a waterfall.
Swimming through the gorge is a once-in-a-lifetime experience but
should be attempted only by strong swimmers. Bathing under the cool
waterfall is tempered by warm streams of water coming over the rocks
from hot springs. Laudat is the best starting point for visits to Morne
Trois Pitons National Park. This rain forest is incredibly dark-green.
Sunlight barely filters down through all the foliage. Ageless trees sprout
orchids, and every surface is covered with some type of parasitic growth.
Giant ferns grow 30 feet tall, waterfalls roar, rivers rush and gush over
rocks, and a gentle mist rises from the jungle floor.
The road goes right to Freshwater Lake, at an elevation of 2,800 feet.
A one-and-a-quarter-mile hike takes you up and over two sharp ridges
to Boeri Lake and wonderful panoramas of villages along the Atlantic
coast. To the north of that is Morne Trois Pitons; at 4,560 feet, it is
the highest point in the park and the second highest on the island.
As far as sights and hikes are concerned, the parks pice de rsistance is
the trip to Boiling Lake through the Valley of Desolation. The names
of these geographic features are not hyperbolethe lake is the secondlargest boiling, sulphuric lake in the world. Its cauldron of gurgling
blue-gray water ranges from 180 to 197 degrees Fahrenheit, hot
enough to cook an egg in a few minutes. The strenuous hike to the valley and the lake is an all-day venture and ranks as one of the top few
treks in the Caribbean. However, the trek should be attempted only by
experienced hikers with a local guide.
The Rest of the Island

The Carib Indian Territory is located on the northeastern corner of
the island. Of the hundreds of thousands of Arawak and Carib Indians
inhabiting the Caribbean islands in 1492, only a few thousand
descendants are left, and almost all of them live here. Perhaps a few
dozen have pure Carib ancestry, but none speaks the ancient language
(though there are attempts to revive it). They are easily recognizable
and live in about eight hamlets.
Known as the Karifuna people, the Caribs have a lifestyle similar to that
of other island residents. Fishing and farming are mainstays of their
lives, but the Caribs also practice some of their ancient crafts, such as
woodcarving, basket-weaving, and canoe-building. Their wares are
displayed and sold in thatch-topped huts lining the road.
The rest of the island is almost as beautiful as the south and the Caribs
lands. Some of the major highlights include the following:
Emerald Pool, within Morne Trois Pitons National Park, is just off
the road that goes from Roseau to the east coast.
Layou River Valley, midway along the west coast, is rich with
bananas, cacao, citrus, and coconuts. The river is the largest and
longest on the island. Its deep gorges, quiet pools, beaches, waterfalls, and rapids provide all sorts of activities for visitorsswimming,
sunning, picnicking, and shooting the rapids.
Portsmouth, on the northwest coast, is a popular anchorage for
yachts. It also houses the 170-room Portsmouth Beach Hotel; this
moderately priced property is the only large hotel on the island.
Cabrits National Park, also in the northwest, boasts a spectacular
promontory formed by the twin peaks of extinct volcanoes, surrounded on three sides by the sea. Vantage points overlook Prince
Rupert Bay.
The island is replete with coconut estates, colorful fishing villages
(Calibishie, north of Marigot, is a special one), coastal drives, volcanic
beaches, pools, rivers, waterfalls, and trails for tropical hikes. Even though
Dominica is not a beach island per se, there are beaches on the northern end of the island, with small inns and hotels located nearby.
Fort Young Hotel in Roseau with 53 rooms is the only hotel in the
capital with more than 32 rooms. Numerous guesthouses, inns, and
cottage complexes are located throughout the island, with a concentration near Roseau and Morne Trois Pitons. These small inns range from
91
budget to deluxe class. The nicest ones have all the amenities but spend
more of their resources on natural island decor, art, and fabrics than on
showy luxury. Because Dominica has a good number of moderately
priced inns, the island is quite affordable for travelers on a budget. The
Atlantic east coast is the only area with only a few accommodations.
During this decade, a limited number of new and larger hotels plan to
open in areas away from Roseau. However, the Ministry of Tourism has
stated that growth will be controlled and environmentally sustainable.
Whats Special about Dominica?

Dominica is the Caribbean island for ecotravelers. Parts of the island
might be compared to the hard-to-reach interior of a Hawaiian island,
Kauai perhaps; nature lovers can revel in the lushness, greenness, waterfalls, and rugged mountains and gorges. Also similar to Hawaii,
Dominica has the vestiges of an almost-extinct culture that once reigned
supreme, with indigenous people who are reinvigorating their ancient,
traditional ways. Here, perhaps, the similarities end. Dominica does not
have luxury hotels catering to resort-minded tourists amid modern
development, although there are lovely accommodations around
the island.
Tourism can be a double-edged sword that brings both prosperity and change in the environment. These changes have not
yet affected Dominica and perhaps never will, especially now
that environmental awareness is keen. However, Dominicas
lack of development has left it poorer economically. Today it
hopes to develop tourism to the economic benefit of its
people without damaging its natural heritage.
NY
uirst Office
Dominica To
Courtesy of
ire
ufr
und So
o
r
a
s
in
Mounta
Interest in nature usually goes hand in hand with interest

in culture and that fact adds to Dominicas fascination to
the ecotraveler. Nowhere else in the Caribbean can the
true descendants of the indigenous Carib Indians be found. Even
those with the smallest portion of Carib Indian heritage in them fiercely defend their culture and traditions.
Hiking throughout the island ranges from pleasant walks that lead to
waterfalls, to strenuous treks up mountain peaks or to a boiling
sulphuric lake. Hiking in Dominica appeals to both the soft adventurer
and the serious trekker who wants a challenge. The swimming most apt
to delight visitors is that which takes place in freshwater pools, rivers,
and waterfalls, rather than in ocean waters off sandy beaches. A river
trip in an authentic dugout canoe is another activity that is not likely to
be duplicated on any other island.
92
Because of Dominicas natural setting, many activities take on a special

light when done in such beautiful surroundings. Fishing waters are more
unspoiled, boating and kayaking are more exciting, and dive sites are
more pristine. Diving is the leading activity that brings Americans to
Dominica. In fact, Dominica has been rated among the top five dive destinations in the Caribbean by Skin Diver magazine. Scotts
Head/Soufrire Marine Park, an underwater crater, is the islands
number-one dive site.
Island Culture
Dominica is less developed, less changed by modernity, a bit more isolated, and less visited than its neighbors, and therefore it tends to be
different culturally. Proud, independent, and relatively poor,
Dominicas people have held onto African and Amerindian traditions
and have infused them with new life. Music is just one example.
Many of the musical traditions of other Caribbean islands have taken
root in Dominica. But generations of dancers, singers, goatskin drummers, and other musical artists have forged their own roots. The
islands Creole music is the popular expression of the French-speaking
Caribbean combined with the rhythmic heritage from Africa. Vibrant
folk traditions have kept alive the rhythmic bl fertility dance with
lavway (a high-pitched chorus), the colorful quadrille, folk dances such
as heel-and-toe. Jing ping accompanying music includes various instruments, such as drums. Much of the dancing is accompanied by bamboo
flutes and lapo kabwit (goatskin) drums.
Many Dominicans have made their mark internationally on the arts and
sciences; they may not be household names, but they are recognized in
their fields. Dominica has produced its share of poets, writers, painters,
dancers, woodcarvers, and storytellers. Perhaps most well known to
North Americans is the writer Jean Rhys, author of Wide Sargasso Sea.
The novel (which was also made into a movie) transports the reader
into the Caribbeans past. Its setting was based on the Geneva Estate
and sugar mill, which can be visited today. Both the novel and the
movie are widely available.
In addition to European and African influences, Dominicas vibrant
culture has been enlivened by its Carib Indian heritage. The areas
Karifuna Cultural Group has thrilled audiences in North America and
Europe with its unique brand of dance, song, and drumming. Visitors
may want to see the Kabet, or traditional big house of the Karifuna,
which is used as an entertainment and cultural center for the people.
93
Food favorites include seafood and the multitude of island produce.

Diners can find salt fish, rotis, stews, callaloo soup, and other Caribbean
favorites, though often with a different Creole twist. Dominica shows its
distinctive style in local specialties such as mountain chicken (frogs, or crapaud in the local patois), stuffed crab backs, manicou (a small opossum),
and agouti (the worlds second-largest rodent); the latter two are served
smoked or stewed. Juices from a harvest of passion fruit, tamarind, sorrel,
seamoss, paw paw, soursop, guava, carambola, barbardine, and gooseberry
join the more familiar selections of fruits on the table.
Dominica lies between Martinique and Guadeloupe, so its not
surprising that some French influence is still felt, even though the
island was held by England for almost two centuries. The local language is a French-flavored patois mixed with English. The country is
predominantly Roman Catholic, also reflecting the influence of
France rather than England.
However, some English traditions hold sway: cricket is one of the most
popular sports, and often the Karifuna Indians have one of the
strongest teams.
Weaving, sculpting, and carving from reeds, bamboo, and other woods
are well-developed island crafts; the style tends to be naive, simple, and
functional. Tightly woven and waterproof baskets and grass mats are
specialties. If a visitor must return with one souvenir of the island, it
would probably be a Karifuna basket or mat. Local products include
soaps, lotions, oils, incense, pepper sauces, and syrups made from
various exotic fruits. Dominicas coffee ranks close to Jamaicas Blue
Mountain brew as one of the best in the Caribbean and is a good
souvenir to bring home; so are the many flavors from this spice
island. Kabuli beer, the local brand, is best consumed on the spot.

Dominicas Carnival takes place during the traditional religious season
in February/March. Like many things in Dominica, it is authentic and
not overly planned, lending an air of spontaneity to the festivities.
Domfesta, a weeklong festival of the arts in July, features music, dance,
drama, fine arts, literary programs, and art exhibitions.
The World Creole Music Festival is one of the Caribbeans most
unique events. It takes place the last week of October and brings
together leading groups and soloists of zouk, cadence, bouyon, soukous,
and even zydeco from Louisiana. Independence Day, November 3, is
another festive, cultural occasion.
94

Though island specialties are certainly widely available, diners wont
have to eat agouti and crapaud unless they really want to. The many
fruit species are almost matched by vegetable choicestaro, yam, tanya,
plantain, and more. Vegetarians could be delighted, but fish, chicken,
and crab are featured in many dishes, too. Spice is a way of life in
Dominica; cinnamon, bay leaf, hot peppers, onions, cocoa, and vanilla
are among the many seasonings used abundantly.
Creole cuisine dominates. Visitors who look for the Italian or
Americanized cuisine common to other islands will note that much less
deference is paid to these tastes. However, fast-food aficionados can find
hamburgers and pizza, and there is an Internet caf in Roseau. One big
concession is made to interamericanational tastesa very popular
KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken).
Cruise Call
The ratio of Americans who see Dominica from a cruise ship compared
to those who fly in is higher than on any other major island in the
Caribbean. Cruises dock in Roseau, and the wisest approach for most
clients is to take a ships tour. Only those with experience and flexibility
should try to arrange things on their own. Tours cover most of the
sights mentioned near Roseau, as well as the popular visit to the Carib
Indian territory, usually including a folkloric performance. Book early
on the ship for the latter. Tours also include whale-watching, scuba
tours, and easy to moderately challenging hikes.
Selling Dominica
If you review the Whats Special about Dominica? section, you will
get a good idea of which clients will enjoy Dominica. Dominica is less
known than many Caribbean islands, even to those in the eastern half of
the United States. This lack of exposure to mass tourism gives creative
salespeople an edge in promoting Dominica to the right groups or
individuals. Often it is easier to sell Dominica to special niche market
groups than trying to differentiate among other more familiar islands
lost in a sea of similarities.
The most obvious niche market is divers, who already represent the
major group that visits the island. Artists, hikers, counterculturalists,
and ecotravelers will also be delighted with Dominica. Culture
enthusiasts will find much to sample on the island; the term culture
here can reflect not only the daily life of the locals and the Carib
Indians, but also culture in its aesthetic sense.
95
How many travelers in the western half of the United States know
much about Dominica? Some travelers (those who usually enjoy the
national parks of the Western United States or may go to Alaska and
Hawaii to explore their natural wonders) perhaps view the Caribbean
merely as one big beach party. You might try to sell these people on
Dominica, with its rain forests, mountains, and challenging hikes,
coupled with an authentic culture and friendly and direct people.
Island Secret
Dominicas third national park was officially designated in January
2000. Morne Diablotin National Park contains and is named after
the islands tallest volcanic peak (at 4,747 feet). The park is home to
two rare parrot species (Jacquot and Sisseou), as well as dozens of tree,
bird, and mammal species and some of the most extensive and
undisturbed areas of rain forest in the Caribbean. A hike to the summit
of the mountain is rated moderately difficult to difficult and takes
about three hours each way. A loop hike around the perimeter offers
opportunities to see the Jacquot and Sisseou parrots in the wild.
Key Points about Dominica

The nature island
1.
2.
3.
4.
Roseau
Three national parks: Morne Trois Pitons, Cabrits, and Morne
Diablotin
Hikes to waterfalls, pools, peaks, and the Boiling Lake in the Valley
of Desolation
Carib Indian territory

Dominica Tourist Office
800 Second Avenue, Suite 1802
New York, NY 10017
Phone 212-949-1711
Fax 212-949-1714
E-mail: dominicany@msn.com
Web site: www.dominica.dm
96
97
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Grande Rivire
Mont Plee
Presqule de la Caravelle
Parc Naturel Rgional
de la Martinique
St-Pierre
Muse
Gauguin
Le Carbet
MARTINIQUE
Pitons du
Carbet
Balata
Fort-de-France
Baie de Fort-de-France
Pointe du Bout
Trois-lets
La Pagerie
Diamant
Rocher du Diamant
Grande Anse des Salines
Savane des
Petrifications
CARIBBEAN SEA
Martinique
98
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
7.2
Kilometers 11.6
Martinique
M
artinique (mahr tih NEEK) is considered the flagship of French

culture in the Caribbean. Its urban areas have a stylish French
feel, with avant-garde shopping, international cuisine, nightlife, and
gambling. Chic resorts reminiscent of the French Riviera are located on
its western and southern coasts. Its countryside contains inns and small
restaurants that hint of Provence, France. There is even an exact replica
of Basilique du Sacr-Coeur in Paris, a Gauguin museum, and a small
chteau or two.
Fast Facts
On the other hand, Martinique is also a typically Caribbean island, with

waterfalls, tropical forests, lush green mountainsides, a dormant volcano,
a desert of petrified wood. It also has overflowing displays of hibiscus,
bougainvillea, frangipani, wild orchids, and other picturesque flowers.
The languorous white-sand beaches on the southern coast and the
volcanic silver-blue-sand beaches on the northern coast are part of the
variety of Martiniques landscape; each offers its own particular pleasures
for European and North American vacationers.
Languages
French, Creole
Land Area
425 square miles
Population
392,000
Capital
Fort-de-France (population 100,000)
Time Zone
Drive on
Right
Currency
Euro
Martinique is one of the string of islands in the heart of the Lesser
Antilles that alternated between English and French control in the
1600s and 1700s. It came solely under French control in 1815. By this
time the sugar industry was waning, and Martiniques slaves achieved
emancipation in 1848 with the urging of French cabinet minister
Victor Schoelcher, whose memory is still revered today. Equally famous
is Marie-Josephe Tascher de la Pagerie, a native of Martinique. Born in
1763, she would become Napoleons wife, the Empress Josephine.
Electricity
plug and converter are required.
The year 1902 brought one of the worlds most cataclysmic events to
the island. Its capital was then St-Pierre, considered to be the Paris of
the Antilles. It had unknowingly been built on the side of a oncedormant volcano. When rumblings began, a few people were scared
off; however, at the time, the science of volcanology was not very
advanced, so few in the government and population understood what
was happening. When the mountain blew, the entire population of
about 30,000 (except one) was killed almost instantly.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: Martinique
99
Martinique became an overseas department of France in 1946 and was

elevated to regional status in 1974. It has full representation in the
French parliament. People born in Martinique are full French citizens.

From the United States there are charters that leave from a few major
population areas of the East Coast and Canada and a direct flight from
Miami. There are also connections through San Juan. Local carriers
connect the French Antilles, while a Caribbean carrier connects
Martinique with nearby English-speaking islands. Sleek, comfortable
catamaran-ferries also connect Martinique to neighboring islands
Guadeloupe, Dominica, and St. Lucia.
Fort-de-France and the bay of the same name are on the middle of the
west coast. The sheltered white-sand shores from here to the southern
tip of the island are where most of the top resorts and best beaches are
located. These, along with the area from Fort-de-France to St-Pierre,
are the most developed parts of the island. The sand becomes volcanic
and silver-blue as you go north, and the Atlantic side of the island is
rough and rugged, though occasional hidden coves of sand and
smoother waters can be special finds.
The island offers the conventional Caribbean vacation on beaches with
flowers and palms that fulfill anyones resort dream; however,
Martiniques unusual sights, mountains, natural areas, and countryside
guesthouses and bistros also qualify it as a touring destination with a
tropical backdrop. Beach resorts tend to be large and all-encompassing
as far as activities and amenities are concerned, in keeping with the
European penchant to stay in one place for a one- or two-week holiday.
The airport is five miles or 15 minutes inland from Fort-de-France.
Most tourists go to hotels and resorts a bit away from the capital. Taxis
provide the only convenient transfers; costs vary by distance. If one is
renting a car for only part of the time, renting it at the beginning or
end of the stay will save an airport transfer.
Resorts, beaches, and the numerous sights on the island are quite
spread out. This fact and the large size of the island make renting a car
for one or more days a good idea for those who want to see more than
just their resort. Travel to and from the capital, however, is easy by
taxis collectifs, taxi-like minivans that pick up and drop off passengers
along set routes. Ferries, operating between the capital and Pointe du
100
Bout, connect the two peninsulas, which encompass a 270-degree circle

of the Bay of Fort-de-France. Those staying at a hotel in Pointe du
Bout could enjoy its surroundings, see the capital, and take the ferry
and taxis collectifs to St-Pierre and back; but if they want to see anything else, it is more convenient to rent a car or take a tour.

Fort-de-France and the South
Courtesy of Joe Petrocik
Fort-de-France (fawr duh FRAHNS)with its narrow streets lined

with pastel-colored houses and lacy wrought-iron balconieswill
immediately remind Americans of the French Quarter in New Orleans,
Louisiana. La Savane, a waterfront park, is a good spot to watch the
life of the city as well as the arrivals from cruise ships in the harbor.
Fort St-Louis, dating from the 1600s, looms next to the park; it is still
used by the military and is open only by special arrangement.
Bibliothque
Schoelcher
One of the chief photo opportunities is the wildly elaborate

Bibliothque Schoelcher (library), styled in Byzantine-EgyptianRomanesque architecture. It was originally built in Paris for the 1889
Exposition; it was then disassembled, shipped to Martinique, and
reassembled. Cathdrale St-Louis and the Vieux Htel de Ville (Old
City Hall) are nearby. All of these sights are in the heart of Fort-deFrance, just a few blocks from the port, making it a good walking tour.
Most visitors will also spend a lot of time shopping for French imports
and Caribbean arts, and people-watching in French cafs.
101
Did you know?
It was on May 8, 1902,

at 8:00 A.M. that Mont
Pele erupted. The
mountain had been
quiet in the first 200
years of the citys existence, erupting briefly in
1851 to send a cloud
of ash over the city and
then once again
becoming dormant.
When it awoke with
smaller eruptions and
lava flows earlier in
1902, few heeded the
warnings that it was
about to erupt.
Within a matter of minutes, the entire population of 30,000, except
1 man, was vaporized,
carbonized, or covered
with molten lava by a
cloud of burning gas,
ash, and stones that
came down at 300
miles per hour. Scientists say that the eruption was the equivalent
of many atomic bombs.
The person who survived, Auguste Cyparis,
had been imprisoned in
an underground jail cell
with thick walls. He was
pardoned and later
toured the United
States with Barnums
Circus until his death in
1955.
102
About 15 minutes north of Fort-de-France is Balata, home of the islands

premier Jardins Botaniques de Balata (Balata Botanical Gardens) and
a church that is a replica of Basilique du Sacr-Coeur in Paris.
Just across the bay from the capital are the beaches and resorts of
Pointe du Bout. A road that skirts the entire bay goes to this area, but
Pointe du Bout is much more quickly and easily approached by a small
ferry from the dock near La Savane. Those staying on the southwestern
coast can also leave their cars
here and take the 20-minute
ferry ride to the capital to save
time and parking hassles.
Trois-lets, next to Pointe du
Bout, is the small town where
Josephine was born and baptized. La Pagerie, the museum at her birthplace, is one
of the most visited sights on
the island. Although hotels
Courtesy of
Joe Petroci
La Pag
are scattered all along the
k
erie
southwestern coast, Pointe
du Bout/Trois-lets is the
biggest resort area because of its fine beaches
and ideal location across the bay from the capital.
South of Pointe du Bout is a succession of beautiful beaches, resorts,
charming fishing villages, and sleepy towns. The most notable sight
along this coast is Rocher du Diamant, a rock jutting 573 feet from
the sea, just offshore. This mini-Gibraltar was fortified by the British in
the early 1800s and manned by 1,200 troops. They held out for 18
months under devastating French artillery bombardment; when the
British capitulated at last, France took final control of the island.
Farther along the coast near Grande Anse des Salines is the Savane des
Petrifications (Petrified Savannah), a contrast to the rest of flowery
green Martinique. This eerie and desert-like area is actually a field of
petrified volcanic boulders in the shape of logs.
The North
The road between Fort-de-France and St-Pierre is the most frequently
traveled route in Martinique. The coast reminds some people of the
French Riviera. Sights include:
Small towns and fishing villages such as Le Carbet, where Columbus
landed and where French settlers arrived in 1635
The five-room house of the Muse Gauguin at Anse Turin,

commemorating the artists stay on the island in 1887 before he
moved to Tahiti
St-Pierre, once the capital and the French pearl of the Antilles. A
much smaller town was rebuilt on the ruins of the old capital. It is
now known as the little Pompeii of the Caribbean. The Muse
Volcanique and Muse Historique de St-Pierre tell the story of
the great disaster and lend a fascination to the region.
4,600-foot Mont Pele, which can be reached by driving to the
2,500-foot level and hiking and climbing the rest of the way (four to
five hours, for the fit only). Mont Pele can be reached by the
coastal road or by the scenic, inland Route de la Trace, which
winds through a steep mountain rainforest of amazing varieties
of vegetation.
On the northeastern coast of the island is the Presqu-le de la Caravelle
(peninsula), a narrow finger of land that is home to a nature preserve
that is part of Parc Naturel Rgional de la Martinique.
Whats Special about Martinique?

All the water sports are prevalent on Martinique, but windsurfing may
be the most popular, due to its immense popularity in France.
Equipment and lessons are available at all the hotel resorts. There is an
English-speaking golf pro at the Golf de lImpratrice Josephine
located at Trois-lets near Pointe du Bout. Martinique is also a paradise
for sailing with Le Marin, the largest of several marinas.
Martiniques mountainous interior makes it one of the best Caribbean
islands for ecotourism, hiking, and mountain-climbing. The Parc
Naturel Rgional de la Martinique at the Presqu-le de la Caravelle and
the mountains around and including Mont Pele are two of the most
challenging and popular spots. Mountain-climbers should consider hiring a guide for scaling the tricky terrain up to the volcano.
Island Culture
French culture may surprise some American visitors, albeit in a pleasant
way. In contrast to other islands, few people outside the immediate
downtown area and major resorts speak English. Most vacationers are
European, plus a good number of French-Canadians. Baguette-carrying
motorcyclists ride down the main street of the capital, while those
dressed in the latest chic-leisure styles sip espresso with their croissant
103
at an outdoor caf. Topless bathing is prevalent not only at the beaches

but also around the hotel pool. However, first-time visitors soon get
used to these cultural differences.
Did you know?
Visitors who have

enjoyed their first Ti
Punch might want to
tour some of the 10
rum distilleries in
Martinique, most of
which offer free tours
and tastings of the
islands 17 varieties of
rum. These are the only
rums to have the French
label appellation dorigine contrle, usually
reserved for the best
French wines and
cheeses.
Besides the impact of French culture on the lifestyle in Martinique,

Caribbean influences add plenty of their own spice to this Creole
bouillabaisse. Caribbean fabrics are designed into the latest styles.
African dances are still performed in places; also popular is the classic
French West Indies dance, the beguine, as well as mazurkas and
merengues. Music lovers can listen to African-Caribbean zouk music, a
great favorite in France. Most people speak Creole as well as the
proper French they learn in school. Shortfalls in the local economy
are made up by the French social service system, which keeps the
standard of living at an even keel.
The island is noted for its food, which ranges from gourmet continental French to a spicy wholesome Creole amalgam of Caribbean and
French that is one of the worlds great cuisines in its own right. Stuffed
land crabs, Creole blood sausage, conch, and clawless Caribbean lobster
(crayfish) are just some of the many specialties, but some form of
seafood is featured in each special dish. Food-loving visitors will want
to purchase at least a few bottles of the local sauces. The local rum is
mixed with cane syrup and a bit of lime for the islands Ti Punch.

During Carnival, the most important event of the year, everyone dons
a costume and parades through the streets dancing and singing. Various
activities take place on the six weekends preceding Ash Wednesday.
During the last four days of the festival, decorated floats jam the
streets. The pre-Lenten celebration ends on Ash Wednesday (in
February or March), when a funeral pyre consumes King Carnival
(called Vaval).

The French islands dont cater to the steak-and-pasta crowd. Many
gourmets contend that Martinique has the best food in the French
Antilleswhich of course means the best in the Caribbeanand most
restaurants are stocked with fine French wines. Unlike many islands,
Martiniques restaurants are not concentrated only at the resorts; there
are many good dining establishments throughout the countryside and
along the coasts. Some food lovers might want to visit the island solely
as a gastronomic journey, with the islands exquisite mountains, beaches, and foliage merely forming a backdrop.
104
Some of the most well-known restaurants also have spectacular

locations, such as the restored Plantation Leyritz (a 17th-century
plantation that is now a hotel and restaurant), country houses, gardens
and terraces overlooking the sea, or the capital city. Better hotel
restaurants may require coat and tie for evening dining in season, but
in most places stylish but casual wear is the norm. Prices match the
quality, and people tend to dine well at lunch as well as at dinner.
In addition to French-Caribbean cuisine, diners can also find
Vietnamese, Chinese, and Indian food. La Savane in Fort-de-France has
outdoor stands and recorded music, so visitors can have fun and good
food at a moderate cost.
Entertainment is similarly scattered and varied, though hotels provide
a large proportion of it. There are two casinos on the island, both at
major hotel resorts. Music lovers can find clubs and nightspots offering almost all Caribbean tempos as well as jazz (a favorite among the
French). Those who enjoy seeing a major performance indicative of
the island should not miss Les Grands Ballets de la Martinique, which
performs throughout the island and is one of the best folkloric groups
in the Caribbean.
Cruise Call
Ships call at Fort-de-France regularly to give cruise passengers a taste of
French atmosphere. Tenders usually take tourists right to the dock.
Those going it on their own might want to take a short walk through
town, do some shopping, pause at a French caf in town, or visit the
park. Then they can take the ferry to Pointe du Bout to spend the rest
of their time at the beach.
Tours leave from near the dock, going north of the capital to visit
St-Pierre, the Muse Gauguin, Jardins Botaniques de Balata, and the
Plantation Leyritz. Tours also afford a look at Mont Pele as well as the
lush northern landscape.
Selling Martinique
American fun-in-the-sun lovers who are out for a good time at a
Caribbean resort may not particularly enjoy a resort on Martinique,
where almost everyone speaks French, styles are a bit more chic, and the
culture is just a bit different. These resorts appeal more to seasoned
travelers or those who have been to other Caribbean islands and are
looking for a slightly different experience. Francophiles, of course, will
105
love these resorts. If visitors are in doubt, they could try first with a
vacation in St-Martin, spending a good deal of time on the French side.
But Martinique is a large island, and staying at a big resort is not the
only option. Those who want to explore the island and stay at smaller
hotels and inns will enjoy a trip that has many of the advantages of
traveling through the French mainland, but with the added bonus of
being in a tropical paradise with Riviera-like beaches.
Veterans of independent travel in Europe who are looking for an island
dream may acclimate quickly and find a rich experience here. The islands
Club Med/Buccaneer Creek continues to be known as a flagship of the
Club Med singles scene, long after most other clubs in the chain have
altered their focus markets to families, couples, and even business travelers.
Island Secret
Few visitors will see the northern- and southernmost points on the
island, but in both cases, beautiful landscapes and vistas await them.
Near the southern tip is Grande Anse des Salines, with white sand and
coconut palms. Many consider this to be the best beach in all of
Martinique. Where the road ends, beachcombers can walk and walk
until they are all alone. They can also take a stroll through the nearby
Savane des Petrifications. If skies are clear, they can see St. Lucia on
the horizon.
Near the northernmost point of the island lies the village of Grande
Rivire, perched on high cliffs. Views on clear days include the island
of Dominica to the north and mountains to the south. The very hardy
can reach a lovely beach on a well-marked 11-mile trek that is relatively
flat and completely uninhabited.
Key Points about Martinique

1.
Fort-de-France
2.
3.
4.
French culture: cuisine, language, shopping

The north: Le Carbet, Muse Gauguin, St-Pierre, Mont Pele
The south: Pointe du Bout, Trois-lets, Rocher du Diamant, Grande
Anse des Salines
Activities: windsurfing and sailing, ecotourism, hiking, and
mountain-climbing
106

Martinique Promotion Bureau, c/o French Government Tourist Office
New York, NY 10022
Phone: 800-391-4909 or 410-286-8311
Fax: 514-845-4868
E-mail: info@martinique.org
Web site: www.martinique.org
Martinique Tourist Office in Martinique:
Tel: (011) 596.596.63.79.60
Fax: (011) 596.596.73.66.93
107
Pigeon Island National Park

Rodney Bay
Reduit Beach
Cap Estate
Gros
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Islet
George Charles Airport
Vigie Beach
Castries
Morne Fortune
Marigot Bay
Anse-la-Raye
Canaries
Frgate Islands
Nature Reserve
ST. LUCIA
Anse Chastenet
Soufrire
Petit Piton
Sulphur Springs
Gros Piton
Choiseul
Labourie
Hewanorra
Airport
Maria Islands Nature Reserve

CARIBBEAN SEA
Moule--Chique Peninsula
St. Lucia
108
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
2.4
Kilometers 3.8
St. Lucia
F
ew islands can match St. Lucias (saint LOO shuh) lush greenery,
whose beauty invites comparisons to Tahiti, Fiji, and other islands
of the South Pacific. Its two Pitons, twin peaks that rise over 2,000 feet
above the sea, have impressed all who see them, from todays tourists
to the sailors of the past five centuries. Interior mountains are covered
by forest, surrounded by banana plantations, and ringed by coastal
fishing villages that have changed little from a century ago.
However, St. Lucias charms do not stop at its thick foliage and twin
peaks. Its northern beaches and resorts are the equal of those on other
islands for beauty and the variety of activities available. Its capital, Castries,
was a hub of shipping in days past. It is nestled in a sheltered harbor with
a mountain to its south. Farther south is a volcanic crater that you can
drive right into. The parking lot is close to sulphuric pools that could boil
an egg. Dark volcanic sands in the south provide unusual seascapes.
Fast Facts
Land Area
238 square miles
Population
153,000
Capital
Castries
Languages
English, Creole patois
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
St. Lucias history follows the classic Caribbean recipeCarib Indians
fiercely defending their island against Europeans; invasion and reinvasion
by the French and English; the dominance of a sugarcane economy
based on slavery; emancipation; and economic depression. However,
there were some unique twists to this history. The island changed hands
between the two European powers a documented 14 times, leaving a
heavy French influence on an ultimately English island. As on Dominica,
some Caribs survived, and their descendants still live on the island. But
they are mixed into the population and have no intact culture.
Currency
Electricity
220 volts, 60 cycles AC. A converter
and adapter plug are required.
St. Lucias mountains go straight down into the sea, so the island has
deep harbors. This made it a chief refueling spot for ships during its
early history. In addition to its rich agriculture, the island also has
some manufacturing, making its economy more resilient than many
others. It became an independent member of the British
Commonwealth in 1979.

When booking St. Lucia, you should be especially careful to note the
location of your clients hotel in relation to the airport at which they
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: St. Lucia
109
urist Board
St. Lucia To
Courtesy of
will arrive. St. Lucia has two airports: the major international airport
(Hewanorra) is at the southern end of the island, while a smaller
interisland airport (George Charles) is at Castries, toward the northern
end of the island. The majority of larger resort-style hotels and the best
beaches are located near and north of Castries. Therefore, tourists
arriving directly from North America who are staying at the beach
resorts in the north can anticipate a transfer of at least an hour and a
quarter (a bit longer if theyre staying north of Castries).
ia
St. Luc
ied on
r
a
v
is
tion
Vegeta
However, this transfer can be quite enjoyable. First, there is a

lot to see on St. Lucia, and the landscape throughout the trip is
lush, and, at times, magnificent. The east coast route is faster,
running through miles of banana groves in an almost primeval
setting. The mountainous west coast route skirts the Pitons
and is more scenic but takes longer. Prepare your clients to
enjoy the trip as part of the experience of seeing the island.
Many hotels in the north build transfers into their rates or
packages. If the hotel doesnt include the transfer in their
rate (always check), be sure to cost it into the travel package.
There are a number of hotels near Soufrire, which is

much closer to the Hewanorra international airport. This
beautifully situated town is the second largest in St. Lucia. The settings of these hotels are quite distinctivein rain forests, high above
coves, or right under the Pitons. However, the volcanic sand beaches
are small and gray. The southernmost tip of the island, right at the airport, has some long stretches of volcanic beach and an all-inclusive
resort. You face a dilemma in choosing the location of accommodations: will your clients prefer the beaches and resorts in the
northwest, or the beauty and nature in the southwest?
Sleek, comfortable catamaran ferries connect St. Lucia to neighboring
islandsMartinique, Dominica, and Guadeloupe. There is also service
from Trinidad, which stops at islands to the south.
Taxi service is available for local and cross-island trips, and rates are
generally fixed. However, late-night returns from Gros Islet, or when
buses have completed their runs from Marigot, Castries, and points
north, should be arranged in advance, as competition for taxis can lead
to higher rates.
Buses and minivan-buses cruise the length of the island and especially
the northwestern shore. Clients need flexibility and a sense of adven-
110
ture: schedules are not fixed; buses do not go directly to hotel

entrances and beaches that are tucked away in coves; and passengers
may have to share space with produce. But travelers usually only need
to take a short walk to get to the beach or hotel. Most buses depart
from Castries and make frequent stops.
St. Lucia is definitely a candidate for the client who wants to rent a car
and who likes to explore. Even though the island is only 27 miles long,
there is much to see. Clients arriving at the international airport and
staying north of Castries will get their moneys worth from a car rental
by using it for their airport transfer, a day trip to the Pitons, and a
Friday-night excursion to Gros Islet. Visitors can even see a good part
of the island with a one-day rental. Roads through the Pitons and
along the coasts can be treacherous, however; many clients might fare
better on jeep tours or catamaran trips along the coast.

St. Lucias many sights are clustered mainly on its western Caribbean
coast. The beaches on the eastern Atlantic coast are rough, rugged, difficult to reach, and not visited as often as those on the Caribbean coast.
For those who are seriously interested in wildlife or who want to get
off the beaten track (and are more adventurous), a tour or horsebackriding trip on the east coast is highly recommended. However, the
fastest north-south route is just inland from the east coast. It goes half
the length of the island, then crosses the island toward Marigot Bay
and Castries, and travels through thousands of acres of banana groves.
Castries
Castries (KAHS trees), the capital (population 65,000), is a large and
fairly bustling city for the Caribbean. Fires in centuries past, and two
more in 1948 and 1951, destroyed much of its center. However, the
French-style architecture and gingerbread design survived in some
structures on the outskirts of the city center. Castries has grown around
its splendid natural harbor, which is actually the crater of a long-extinct
volcano. The sheltered bay creates one of the busiest shipping and
cruise ports in the Caribbean.
Visitors to Castries will want to start from Derek Walcott Square and
stop in at the colorful Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception,
which was built while the city was under French rule. A short walk will
take them to the Victorian-style Government House and Jeremy
Street, with its Saturday market. Shoppers will want to see Pointe
Seraphine, a complex of duty-free shops near the harbor, or La Place
111
Carenage, a shopping plaza superimposed on the old plans of the city

when most buildings were of wooden construction.
Morne Fortune (Hill of Good Luck) rises just behind the city. The
view of the harbor from Fort Charlotte, at the top of the hill, stirs
memories of the 1700s, when it witnessed many battles for the highly
sought-after city of Castries. Barracks, guardrooms, stables, cells,
battlements, and a cemetery all remain and can be visited today.
North of Castries
Southern St. Lucia may boast the islands best natural sights, but the
north is also beautiful and has the best beaches and most of the major
resorts. Vigie Beach is just to the north of Castries and almost right
next to George Charles Airport. It was the site of past invasions to
take the capital, but little remains of this history.
The coastal road leads to Rodney Bay, an 80-acre man-made lagoon
with many hotels and restaurants. Then come the resorts at Reduit
Beach and the fishing village of Gros Islet. Pigeon Island National
Park, the islands first national park, juts out into the sea and is connected to the mainland by a causeway; visitors can walk to the island
along the causeway from some of the nearby hotels. The park boasts
sandy beaches, calm waters, picnic grounds, traces of the Arawak
Indians, and historic ruins from English and French struggles.
Cap Estate is an elegant residential area at Le Cap, the northern
tip of the island.
South of Castries
South of the capital, the sights are even more numerous. The
following highlights are listed in order, from Castries to the southern
end of the island:
Marigot Bay is a yachtsmens haven and one of the most beautiful
bays in the Caribbean. In 1778 a British admiral hid his ships from
the French here by covering them with palm fronds. Many movie
companies have used the bay for background shots, Dr. Doolittle
being one of the most well known.
Two colorful fishing villages, Anse-la-Raye and Canaries, come
alive with bright boats bobbing in the harbor and nets hanging out
to dry. The local fishermen make canoes by burning out the center
of a log.
Soufrire, the islands breadbasket, comes next. The townnamed
after the nearby volcanois dwarfed by Petit Piton and Gros
112
Piton, the two pointed mountains that have become a

popular symbol of St. Lucia and one of the most-photographed scenes in the Caribbean. These two volcanic
cones, now green with vegetation, make a spectacular landmark: visible for miles, they rise up to 2,619 feet, while
waves crash around their bases. Soufrire Estate on the
east side of town has a botanical gardens, minizoo, and
nearby Diamond Falls and Mineral Baths.
La Soufrire Sulphur Springs famous drive-in volcano, is just south of the city. Visitors literally drive
right into the old crater, where they can view 20 bubbling pools of black, spewing, smelly water, steaming
yellow-green sulphur, and pools of hissing steam.
Courtesy of
St. Lucia To
urist Board
The Pit
ons
Choiseul and Laborie are traditional West Indian fishing villages

that have changed little over the years. Shoppers can hunt for
woodcarvings and pottery, especially at the Choiseul Arts &
Crafts Centre.
A small peninsula extending from St. Lucias southern tip provides
some scenic panoramas. From the peak of Moule--Chique
Peninsula, visitors can get a view of the greenish-blue Caribbean
mixing with the dark-blue Atlantic; on a clear day, they can see all
the way to St. Vincent.
Even at this point, the islands natural wonders are not complete.
Off the coast is the Maria Islands Nature Reserve of frigate birds,
rare species of lizards, and other birds and reptiles.
St. Lucias eastern side is largely untouched by tourists, except for the
main road on the southern half of the island that cuts across to the
west about mid-island. Nevertheless, nature lovers will be interested in
several swampland habitats and offshore islands that protect bird life,
principally the frigate birds of Frgate Islands Nature Reserve.
Accommodations on St. Lucia include eight all-inclusives but no highrises; a Hyatt Regency that opened in 2000 near Pigeon Point; the
Jalousie Hilton Resort and Spa near Soufrire; and a wealth of small
inns situated in tropical landscapes or cozy coves with exquisite views.
Le SPORT is an all-inclusive offering archery, fencing, aerobics, Tai
Chi, and weight-training in addition to the more traditional water
sports. Two properties of the Sandals chain are located near Castries, as
well as the Rendezvous for couples only. Visitors can also choose from
numerous other first-class to deluxe properties and smaller guesthouses.
113
Whats Special about St. Lucia?
Only a few Caribbean islands compare with St. Lucia for beauty.
Less-visited Dominica to the north, Guadeloupes Basse-Terre, and the
much larger interior of Jamaica perhaps come closest to matching St.
Lucia. Most comparisons are made instead to islands in the South Pacific.
Did you know?
St. Lucias Parliament

established the National
Trust in 1975 to pursue
a policy of preserving
the islands unique
natural and historical
heritage. Visitors to
many of the trails
through nature areas
must be accompanied
by a guide from the
National Trust to ensure
protection of the
surroundings. This
includes visits to the
Maria Islands, Frgate
Islands, the 19,000-acre
National Rainforest, and
trails that begin near
Soufrire.
This lush splendor has led to an emphasis on ecotourism and travel

devoted to seeing the sheer beauty of the island. Nature walks, visits
to nature reserves, mountain hikes, and boat trips to island sanctuaries are popular. St. Lucia has a number of indigenous bird species
such as the jacquot (St. Lucia parrot) and carouge (St. Lucia oriole);
the island is also home to sanctuaries for birds that are found
throughout the Caribbean, such as the frigate. The names of two of
the most popular individualistic hostelries on the island, the Green
Parrot Inn and the Hummingbird Inn, are representative of the
islands interest in its environment.
What is special about St. Lucia is that this natural beauty can be coupled
with great beaches and hotel resorts, which equal those on much more
developed islands. All-inclusive hotels have taken root here, not so much
as isolated havens, but as comfortable bases from which to explore the rest
of the island. Visitors to St. Lucia who rarely venture out from their allinclusive enclave will miss St. Lucias key attraction: its natural splendor.
St. Lucia has a select number of inns or guesthouses that are found on
almost every list of the best hideaways or the secret Caribbean for
lovers. The most well-known is Anse Chastenet near the Pitons (which
was voted by readers of Modern Bride magazine as a top honeymoon
destination), but there are numerous others.
St. Lucias fantastic ports and harbors and a number of offshore islands
and nature areas make it a leading anchorage for bareboat (without
crew) and crewed yacht charters. At the very least, visitors should take a
half-day or one-day sail to see the awe-inspiring views of the island that
have amazed sailors for the past 500 years.
Island Culture
French influence on St. Lucia is apparent everywhere. Although it
became English in 1814, the French language and culture were firmly
established, much as in Martinique and Guadeloupe to the north. Most
people speak a French patois or Creole among themselves, though
much English has seeped into it. English is spoken in business,
government, the schools, and in dealings with tourists. The majority of
the population of St. Lucia is Roman Catholic.
114
Many of the current musical fashions found on the French

islandssuch as African-Caribbean-French zouk and socaare as
popular here as the steel-drum and calypso music that North
American visitors often associate with Caribbean islands of
English heritage. In addition, the magic of African drumming
and ancient shamans is easily discernible in St. Lucian culture.
St. Lucia has one of the Caribbeans richest traditions in the
arts. Sir Derek Walcott, a writer and artist, has become a
living legend on the island. In 1992 he won the Nobel
Courtesy of
Prize for literature for his poem Omeros and for a body of
St. Lucia To
A mark
urist Board
et scen
work that includes many poems, an autobiography in
e on St
. Lucia
verse, and plays. His work can be found in collections and
public places all over the island and is for sale at various galleries.
He has lived and taught in the United States for many years, but his
Caribbean heritage inspires both his writing and his life. He runs an
annual writers workshop on Rat Island near Castries. Writers other
than Walcott are known throughout St. Lucia and the Caribbean.
St. Lucias pride is apparent in its other Nobel Prize winner, Sir Arthur
Lewis, who was honored for his work in economics in 1979.
Other elements of St. Lucian culture are also distinctive. English lyrics
of songs are straightforward and explicit, commenting on sexual mores
and current events. Creole or English lyrics are often ad-libbed on the
spot. The islands musical traditions have been documented by folk
research groups.
Some islanders have achieved fame in international art circles. Its not
difficult to understand why both local and foreign artists have been
inspired by the islands lush and varied scenes.
In addition to the islands diversity in activities, natural sights, and
culture, its tourists are also diverse, about half North Americans and
half Europeans.
The islands protection of its environment and its promotion of Nature
Heritage Tourism are strong influences today. However, as on other
islands, much of its forests were destroyed in past decades to make way
for agriculture. Environmental movements of the 1970s stemmed the
tide and pushed for protection of endangered species, many of which are
now flourishing. Today, environmental studies are part of the school
curriculum beginning in elementary grades. Tourism can sometimes
place negative stresses on the environment. But because the island is
aware that it has so much beauty to protect, for both visitors and its
own citizens, controlled tourism development has also had a positive
impact on the ecosystem.
115

St. Lucias Carnival was traditionally a Catholic, pre-Lenten festival
celebrated in February/March. However, it was recently moved to
summer and is now held in July or August. The extravagant celebration
of spectacular costumes and parades takes place mainly in Castries.
Every December the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), the worlds
largest ocean-crossing sailing event, concludes its transatlantic race in
St. Lucia. Approximately 150 vessels race into the harbor at Rodney
Bay for Christmas celebrations.
The Friday night Street Party at the northern village of Gros Islet is a
special event that visitors to St. Lucia might enjoy attending. This
spontaneous and authentic street fair/dance party sprang to life totally
from the spirit of local residents. On its best nights it can be compared
to a mini-Mardi Gras. St. Lucians and tourists alike attend this fte.
The International Jazz Festival held in May is reputed to be the best in
the Caribbean. It attracts some of the worlds best musicians, of not only
traditional jazz and jazz with Cajun and Caribbean influences, but also of
rhythm-and-blues.

Both dining and entertainment on St. Lucia are in keeping with much
of the Caribbean, though perhaps in even more abundance and variety
(12 types of bananas are available, for instance). A list of food specialties would read like a review of cuisine in most of the Leeward and
Windward Islands. Diners will find French-Creole and strictly
Caribbean cuisine as well as European (including Italian) cooking.
Plenty of more standard American choices are also available. However,
restaurants make less of a concession to U.S. tastes than islands farther
north, perhaps reflecting St. Lucias more varied mix of visitors.
The vast majority of St. Lucias dining optionsbe they formal, casual,
or funkyshare one thing in common: extraordinary settings. Open-air
dining rooms usually overlook the sea or the mountains. Local
plantations and estates, beachside cafs, and a World War II barracks
are other interesting locations.
A variety of Caribbean entertainment is offered at the larger hotels, and
some all-inclusives offer evening packages. No casinos operate on St.
Lucia. Anyone looking for a party on the north side of the island
should consider the popular Friday-night Street Party at Gros Islet.
Evening entertainment and views at the Green Parrot, on a hill
116
overlooking Castries, are legendary. The Derek Walcott Theatre in

Castries usually presents a play, musical, or dance program.
Cruise Call
Most ships call at Castries. From there, shoppers can walk to the nearby
Pointe Seraphine complex, which features some of the islands best shopping. Sightseers can reach the center of the city in 20 minutes on foot or
in a few minutes by cab. Ships occasionally call at the pier that is even
closer to the city center, but farther from the major shopping complex.
Most arrivals will want to take one of the many island tours; the choices
are extensive. Visitors face a dilemma: whether to go north to see
Pigeon Island National Park and the beautiful beaches, or go south to
see Soufrire, the Pitons, and the drive-in volcano. Special tours by
four-wheel drive and dirt bike are offered by some cruise lines.
Only the more adventurous tourists should attempt these tours on their
own by rental car or taxi, as distances can be deceptive and roads can
be rough. They should check the ships departure time carefully and
plan to return far in advance to give themselves enough time.
Smaller ships sometimes call at Soufrire; from there, passengers are
only a short distance from the volcano, the Pitons, and other sights.
They should definitely see this area, the most spectacular on the island,
rather than venturing very far away.
Selling St. Lucia

The islands diversity, natural wonders, and beauty almost make
prospects forget to consider it when choosing a destination for more
conventional sports and activities. Those interested in snorkeling, diving, or deep-sea fishing may find areas in St. Lucia that are relatively
untouched and uncrowded, particularly in comparison to places better
known for these activities. This only enhances the quality of the experience. See the dive center at Anse Chastenet, especially.
If youve developed a group of four to ten people who like to charter a
boat or yacht, they have probably already visited the British Virgin
Islands or islands farther north. If they are ready for something new,
you can introduce them to St. Lucias many harbors, coves, and islands,
or even its rugged east coast.
The leading nature sanctuaries, mountains, and beautiful sights are
scattered throughout the island. Therefore, the choice of hotel (or
117
itinerary, in the case of travelers who want to visit two different parts of
the island) should be made in light of what one wants to see and do.
Pure resorters will want to stay on the northwest coast.
The islands varied sights are ideal for independent travel via car; an
automobile tour is particularly recommended for savvy clients who have
international travel experience. Roads along the beautiful west coast can
be narrow and rugged. If drivers encounter a rain squall, make a late
start, or plan unrealistically, they could end up being exhausted rather
than exhilarated. Its almost an island tradition for young men near the
volcano and sulphur springs to pester tourists to hire them as guides,
whether their services are needed or not. For simple peace of mind, its
usually best to hire one, agree to a price, and stick to it.
If in doubt about journeying on their own, clients should rent a taxi by
the hour or take island tours. They can drive down the coast from
north of Castries, see the sights in the south, and come back in one
day, but its a long day. Travelers who do not mind changing hotels
once during their stay could have the best of both worlds.
Island Secret
Indicative of St. Lucias creative arts is the gallery of Llewellen Xavier,
the originator of mail art. His new art form was inspired by a
prisoner who, Xavier felt, had an unjust sentence. He mailed him a
lithograph wrapped around the outside of a tube. The work acquired
stamps, postage marks, and visas for international shipping and took
on a life of its own. Xaviers work became well known, and he has
since gone on to work in other art forms. His work can be viewed at
his gallery at Cap Estate, the northernmost point of the island, and at
other galleries in Castries.
Key Points about St. Lucia

Castries and Soufrire
1.
2.
3.
4.
The Pitons and Sulphur Springs

Pigeon Island and the northwestern resort area
Lush beauty and nature travel
Two airports: Hewanorra and George Charles
English island with strong French overtones
118
St. Lucia Tourist Board

800 Second Avenue, 9th Floor
New York, NY 10017
Phone: 888-4STLUCIA (888-478-5824) or 212-867-2950
Fax: 212-867-2795
E-mail: stluciatourism@aol.com
Web site: www.stlucia.org
Did you know?
To become a Destination
Specialist St. Lucia, see
The Travel Institutes
Destination Specialist St.
Lucia course.
119
BARBADOS
Almond Beach
Speightstown
ATLANTIC OCEAN
ST. LUCY PARISH
Barbados Wildlife Preserve

ST. ANDREW PARISH
ST. PETER
PARISH
St. James
Church
Holetown
Bathsheba
Andromeda
Gardens ST. JOHN
ST. JOSEPH
PARISH
PARISH
Harrisons
Cave
ST. THOMAS
PARISH
ST. JAMES
PARISH
Codrington College
Ragged Point Lighthouse
ST.
GEORGE
PARISH
ST. PHILIP
PARISH
Sam Lords Castle
ST. MICHAEL
PARISH
Bridgetown
Brownes Beach
Hastings
Dover Oistins
Brighton Beach
CHRIST
CHURCH
PARISH
Barbados
120
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
4.1
Kilometers 6.6
Barbados
B
arbados (bahr BAY dohz) lies out in the Atlantic, 100 miles east of
its neighbors in the southern crescent of the Windward Islands.
For years it has been one of the major tourist destinations in the
Caribbean. It welcomes more overnight visitors than St-Martin or
Bermuda and rivals the U.S. Virgin Islands in overall tourist numbers.
Almost half of these tourists are from Europe, but many are from the
United States.
Barbados offers white-sand beaches and rolling hills and fields of sugarcane, rather than lush volcanoes and tropical rain forests. Its nickname,
Little England, is reflected in its British traditions of afternoon tea
and cricket matches and its colorful cottages, neat little gardens, and
stone parish churches. With more than 150 luxury resorts, first-class
hotels, inns, guesthouses, villas, and other properties, Barbados has a
well-developed tourist infrastructure.
Fast Facts
Land Area
166 square miles
Population
268,000
Capital
Bridgetown
Languages
English
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Barbadoss very early history is a mystery. The first Europeans on
record to visit were the Portuguese in 1536. Petroglyphs and other
artifacts suggest that the island was inhabited by Amerindians for a
thousand years, but early sailors saw no indication of any people. The
Portuguese left behind some wild hogs and sailed on. When English
settlers landed a century later, these pigs had bred and multiplied,
providing them with food, but the rest of the island was uninhabited.
No records exist indicating whether the early inhabitants left before the
Europeans came, or whether perhaps the Spanish landed first and
decimated the Amerindians.
Currency
Barbados dollar
Electricity
The English settlers established small crop farms, allowing them a

decent living for the first decade, and colonists from England flocked
to the island. Once sugarcane was introduced, however, some of their
lives changed. The world demand for sugarcane products overwhelmed
the islands economy, but it was most profitable only for very large
estates and plantations. Dispossessed farmers moved to other English
islands or to North America, and slaves were brought in to work the
new corporate farms. After emancipation, most freed AfricanCaribbeans had little choice but to continue to work the farms
for low wages.
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: Barbados
121
Barbados history is also different from many other Caribbean islands in

that France, Spain, and the Netherlands never held sway herethe
island stayed British throughout its colonial history, probably due to its
isolation from other islands and lack of strategic value. Consequently,
fewer forts of any size were built on the island.
Barbados has the oldest parliament in the Western Hemisphere. This
legislative body was established in 1639, the same year that sugarcane
came to the island. Barbados became an independent nation in 1966
and remains a member of the British Commonwealth. It is proud of its
British heritage, but recent political trends have been in the direction of
even more autonomy from Britain. Even though its economy has had
its ups and downs (sugar producers were hit by drought and poor
production in recent decades), Barbados is one of the most economically and politically stable countries in the Caribbean.

A number of daily nonstop flights arrive from New York, Miami,
Toronto, and Montreal at the international airport in Christ Church
Parish, 11 miles east of Bridgetown. Charters from the East Coast also
bring visitors to the island. Connections from some American cities can
best be made through San Juan, Puerto Rico. Barbados is an important
hub with numerous flights to and from nearby islands. Flights from
Europe (primarily England and Germany) are frequent.
The south and west coasts have most of the beaches, while the rugged
north and east coasts have high cliffs. The vast majority of the large
choice of accommodations are located all along the south coast to
Bridgetown and up the west coast to Speightstown. Many of the newer,
more fashionable resorts are along the west coast in St. James Parish;
accommodations along the south coast have been around a bit longer.
A few lodgings are scattered elsewhere on the island.
Travelers who are accustomed to public transportation can see and do a
lot on Barbados. Those for whom convenience is not essential can even
take the public bus from the airport to Bridgetown or a number of
hotel locations. Many tourist arrivals will have transfers included in
their package or charter; those who decide to take a taxi can ask the
airport tourist office to quote the set fare to their hotel.
Public buses, private minibuses, and route taxis cover the entire
122
island, and distances are not far. However, the island has so many hotels,
dining spots, and tourist sights that renting a car is an attractive option.

At the heart of Bridgetown is the colorful and picturesque old harbor at
the Carenage, an inlet surrounded by old warehouses. Nearby is the citys
own Trafalgar Square, with a statue of British Lord Admiral Horatio
Nelson that predates the one in London by some 36 years. The
architecture of the old government buildings around the square is also
reminiscent of parliament buildings one might find in London.
Two minutes from the square is the Anglican St. Michaels Cathedral,
which has been rebuilt twice after hurricanes. George Washington is
said to have worshipped at this church. Other sights include the Old
Synagogue, which was restored on the site of the original 17th-century
one; and the Garrison Savannah, a 50-acre park surrounded by trees,
which is two miles from central Bridgetown.
The road along the south coast west of Brighton passes through towns
with British names such as Hastings and Dover. Oistins, a former shipping port, today is a colorful fishing village and the main fishing town
on the island. It also has historic importance: it was here that the people of the island signed the charter surrendering to British
Commonwealth forces after the English Civil War. The town comes
alive around 1 P.M., when the days catch is brought in and sold. The
south coast has a number of budget, moderate, and first-class accommodations.
North of Bridgetown, the west coast is a series of towns and hotels
amid stunning coves, white-sand beaches, calm water, and beautiful
sunsets. Holetown (the name comes from the town of Hole on the
Thames River) is where the first English settlers landed. Today the
town is quite modern and is known for its beaches. Visitors will want
to stop at St. James Church, built in the 1600s. It still has an old bell
inscribed God Bless King William, 1696 and tombstones dating back
to the 17th century. To the north is Speightstown (SPITES town).
This former whaling port was founded in 1635 and also has historic
buildings to examine.
The hotel choices along the west coast are numerous and include some
of the best in the Caribbean. Sandy Lane has been renowned for years;
recent renovations include new villas and two 18-hole golf courses,
which will open in 2001. Almond Beach Village and Almond Beach
Club are all-inclusives on Almond Beach with several swimming pools.
123
Authority
urism
Barbados To
Courtesy of
eba
Bathsh
Did you know?
The infamous Sam

Lord is said to have
amassed the riches
that helped him build
his Georgian-style Sam
Lords Castle by luring
unsuspecting ships
onto the rocks off the
rugged Atlantic coast in
the early 1800s. He
hung lanterns in trees
to simulate port lights;
after the ships
wrecked, he looted
their cargo.
Construction on the
castle began in 1820.
Artisans from Italy took
three years to build the
mansion, though local
slaves did most of the
arduous work. Some of
its columns and
plastered ceilings rival
those in the finest
European palaces.
124
Lining the east coast is a series of rugged cliffs rising 1,000 feet
above the sea. This area, with old churches and fishing villages,
appeals more to sightseers than to beachgoers. Andromeda
Gardens are located high above the fishing town of
Bathsheba. Barclays Park (whose land was donated by the
banking conglomerate) and Barbados Wildlife Reserve are
two other pleasant places to visit while touring the island.
Also along the coast and inland are rum factories, plantation
great houses, and a number of caves that can be visited.
Much of Barbados is an upended reef surrounded by more

reef covered with coral. As such, its porous limestone interior has eroded through the millennia, creating caverns all
over the island. Harrisons Cave is a major tourist
attraction. Visitors tour the underground world aboard an electric tram
after watching a video show of the cave. Bubbling streams, deep pools,
and cascades are punctuated by stalactites and stalagmites.
Up the southeastern coast is Sam Lords Castle; this Georgian mansion is part of one of the most well-known hotels on the island. With
72 landscaped acres along the rugged Atlantic coast and its history (see
the sidebar), the castle is one of the most visited sights on Barbados.
Farther north on the coast is Ragged Point Lighthouse, which was
built in 1885 on a steep cliff. This is the point where the sun first hits
Barbados (and the Caribbean), and the views are spectacular.
Whats Special about Barbados?

Barbados is not only a beach-resort island but also something much
more. It has a good number of hotels in the 100- to 300-room range,
but no very large resorts. It also boasts a diversified economy, an easyto-reach interior, a high standard of living, and a sophistication in
dealing with the tourist tradequalities that give it the air of a much
larger country.
Barbados does not have tropical rain forests, inaccessible mountains, isolated segments of population, or areas that have never seen development. Nonetheless, it has more than its share of wild scenery: cliffs
along the north and east coasts, sweeping bays, treacherous reefs, and
mysterious caves. No island of its size has such an intricate web of paved
roads reaching as many secluded spots of its interior and coast. It is a
country that can be toured; visitors can meander about and poke
around, much as they might sightsee in the Irish or English countryside.
The facts that Barbados did not change hands among the European
powers and that its rolling landscape resembles Britain give it a special
Barbados southern shore ranks among the top six destinations in the
world for windsurfing. Windsurfers from the world over visit annually
for the Barbados Cup, one of the top professional international
sailboarding events.
English quality that remains today. Nonetheless, independence, pride in

its African and West Indian heritages, and new cultural influences have
given the island its own distinct culture. But it still ranks near the top
in the Caribbean for beach, sun, sand, water sports, and funthe
features most vacationers are seeking.
Did you know?
Island Culture
With more than a quarter of a million inhabitants, Barbados has the
highest population density of any island in the Caribbean. The islands
traditional Little England moniker does hold true in many of its
cultural traits, though its West Indian traditions are in many ways just
as strong as on islands to the west.
British place-names abound on the island. It is divided into parishes
such as St. James (the fashionable west coast area), St. Michael (where
Bridgetown is located), Christ Church (including the south coast),
and St. Andrew to the northeast. The northern part is called the
Scotland district. Asian Indians and Middle Easterners have also
made their mark here.
Cricket is a national passion on this island. With less than one-quarter of a percent of Britains population, Barbados has produced some
of the worlds greatest cricket players (including Sir Garfield Sobers,
the Babe Ruth of cricket) and is home to the oldest team in the
British Commonwealth.
American visitors may

want to stop at Crofton
House near
Bridgetown, where
George Washington
stayed on his visit to
the island in 1751. He
had accompanied his
half-brother Lawrence,
who came for health
reasons. In his diary,
Washington recorded
that he stayed in a
building owned by a
Briton named Captain
Crofton.
Calypso is king of traditional Bajan (a contraction of Barbadian) music,

though reggae and other West Indian forms are popular as well.
Calypsos satiric, storytelling, improvisational form suits this multifaceted island and constantly recalls its African roots.
The Bajan dialect is different from the patois or creoles of other islands,
which are heavily influenced by the Spanish, French, and Dutch languages. Bajan is a mixture of English and African language, and most
islanders can speak both English and the Bajan dialect. Today Bajan
speech is looked upon with pride as an integral part of island life.
Barbadoss literacy rate stands at more than 90 percent; as such, it is
one of the highest in the developing world, according to the United
Nations. The island also has a rich tradition of writers, artists, and
125
craftsmen. One of the indigenous architectural forms is the chattel

house, which was originally constructed for slaves and workers. It was
built so that it could be easily broken down, moved to another
plantation, and put back together.
Many Bajan dishes are similar to other islands: pepperpot stew, salt fish
with cou-cou (corn meal and okra), peas and rice, and numerous of fish
recipes. One particular denizen of the deep (and also of the air) has
become a national dish and symbol of the island: the flying fish. It is
caught from December to May and thus will be on many menus during
the tourist season. Barbados has plenty of variety in foodstuffs,
although it does not have the extravagant assortment of produce that
the lush islands to the west have. Mount Gay rum is the islands bestknown local brand.

In terms of celebrations, Barbados differs somewhat from its sister
Caribbean islands. Instead of Carnival, which is heavily influenced by
the religious calendar, Barbadoss biggest event is Crop Over, a festival
in celebration of the sugarcane harvest. This five-week party takes place
in mid-summer. Its climax is Kadooment Day, a national holiday, when
everyone participates in the excitement of parades, music, and fireworks. Numerous fishing festivals celebrate another important
component of the islands economy.
Barbadoss cultural events put it in the forefront of performing arts in
the Caribbean. In-season events include Holders Season, one of the
Caribbeans premier cultural events, in the latter half of March. It
features opera, classical music, theater, and internationally acclaimed
performers. Paint It Jazz (in January) has featured such stellar
performers as Wynton Marsalis and the late Tito Puente. Another inseason event is the Holetown Festival in February, which celebrates
the arrival of the first English settlers. The popular Oistins Fish
Festival takes place in April. Those who enjoy the performing arts
might want to attend the National Independence Festival of the
Creative Arts, an off-season festival that takes place in November.

As befits an island that receives so many tourists and has such a high
population density, the choice of restaurants is large. Diners will find
quite a few restaurants with European-style cuisines. Though many of
the hotels feature first-class restaurants, discerning patrons will be
tempted to try the independents that offer even more of a local flavor.
126
Most restaurants add some Caribbean touches to their dishes and offer
local specialties. Fish and seafood predominate as featured specials. Of
the restaurants often mentioned as being among the best, one has a
caviar bar, two have stunning views from atop cliffs, others are in
plantation houses, and many have wonderful waterfront settings.
Plenty of colorful local places abound, and prices are quite reasonable.
The Friday Oistins Fish Fry is a cross between dining, entertainment,
and a special event. Chains have arrived here, including Pizza Hut and
KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken). Hungry visitors can also find peas and
rice or a roti at a Bajan fast-food outlet such as the Chefette.
Nightlife is also bound to meet the needs of the urbanized American
tourist who wants to dance to a Bajan beat. One particularly local place
is the rumshop, where patrons buy a bottle (they come in fifths and
smaller sizes also), mixers, and ice and serve themselvesa very
authentic and friendly experience; those wishing to go should ask for
suggestions at their hotel.
Most hotels feature a Caribbean show with the usual limbo-dancing, fireeating, calypso, and steel bands. Discothques, dance clubs, and jump-ups
(advertised in newspapers or on the street) are numerousmost do not
warm up before midnight and they stay open late. Big dinner shows are
staggered on five different days of the week at three different venues. Two
of them explore Bajan culture and history. A dinner cruise and theater
performances are available (George Washington mentions in his diary that
he attended a performance here). These can be dress-up events, whereas
most other nightlife is casual-chic.
This large selection of nightly entertainment is ample for Bajans and
visitors alike; the island does not have any casinos. Many of the most
highly rated restaurants and top nightspots are on the west coast, but
there are plenty of other places along the south coast as well.
Cruise Call
Barbadoss cruise terminals have recently been renovated, and a
number of shops have been constructed to re-create an island street
scene; some storefronts resemble chattel houses in brilliant colors. A
short walk away is Bridgetown, and visitors can see the town on their
own quite easily. Brighton Beach and Brownes Beach near
Bridgetown are popular with cruisegoers.
Barbados is the most frequently visited cruise port in the southern
Caribbean. Of the Lesser Antilles, only the super cruise ports of St.
Thomas and St-Martin in the far north receive more visitors. Ships usu-
127
ally stay a full day to allow passengers to see as many of the islands
diverse sights, beaches, and shops as they wish. Cruise passengers can
choose from full island tours, a trip to Harrisons Cave, visits to nature
areas and the wilder Atlantic and northern parishes, party cruises,
diving trips, island safaris in jeeps, and rum tours.
Selling Barbados
On Barbados, tourism is a large, well-developed industry and is key to
the islands economy. In that respect, Barbados is similar to the
Bahamas, the Cayman Islands, Bermuda, and even the U.S. Virgin
Islands. Most who come here are looking for beach fun and nightlife in
a slightly exotic setting, but one that has all the conveniences and
comforts they expect. In addition, Barbados offers a number of historic
sights and nature areas.
As such, Barbados can be a good first-time Caribbean experience for
the more discerning traveler. Those who have already been to
the Bahamas, the Cayman Islands, Bermuda, and the U.S.
Virgin Islandsand who want a similar experience a bit farther away, with a somewhat different flavorare ready for
Barbados. However, those who want to get away from
civilization or who prefer a lusher natural scene are better off
choosing one of the Windward Islands west of Barbados.
ority
urism Auth
Barbados To
Courtesy of
coast
he east
ge on t
la
il
v
g
A fishin
For Anglophiles who want a winter vacation, this could be

the perfect choice. The British experience can be enhanced
by touring plantation houses and gardens, as well as
stately, beautiful Codrington College. The college was
founded in the 1740s as a grammar school and a century
later became a seminary.
Easterners tend to be more aware of Barbados than are other

Americans. However, with daily nonstop flights from Miami, New
York, and San Juan, the island is also quite accessible from midwestern
and other cities.
Island Secret
Although there are islands that are more naturally wild, Barbados has
the Arbib Nature and Heritage Trail. Opened in October 1998, the
trail won Islands magazines Eco-Tourism Award in 1999, out of 42
entries submitted by 20 islands. The trail begins at Speightstown and
features two distinctly different paths. One path, a 4.7-mile trek,
traverses the mysterious Whim gully, crosses one of the last working
128
plantations, and is ideal for the experienced hiker. It returns along the
beach toward town. The other path is a 3.4-mile trail designed for
those looking for a more relaxing hike; this trail also explores the natural history and heritage of Speightstown.
Keys Points about Barbados

Bridgetown
St. James Parish (the stylish west coast)
Christ Church Parish (the south coast)
1.
2.
3.
4.
Sam Lords Castle

Harrisons Cave
Highest population density in Caribbean
Little England

Barbados Tourism Authority
800 Second Avenue
New York, NY 10017
Phone: 888-BARBADOS (888-227-2236) (brochure requests)
800-221-9831 or 212-986-6516 (other inquiries)
Fax: 212-573-9850
E-mail: help@barbados.org
Web site: www.barbados.org
129
Falls of Baleine
ATLANTIC OCEAN
La
Soufrire
Volcano
ST. VINCENT
Georgetown
Barrouallie
Layou
Mesopotamia
Valley
Kingstown
Young Island
THE GRENADINES
Admiralty Bay
Princess Margaret Beach
Moon Hole
Port Elizabeth
Bequia
Petit Nevis
Mustique
CARIBBEAN SEA
Canouan
Mayreau
Tobago Cays
Union Island
Palm Island
Petit St. Vincent
St. Vincent and

the Grenadines
130
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
15
Kilometers 24.1
St. Vincent and

the Grenadines
T
he island of St. Vincent lies off the beaten track from mainstream
tourism and remains unspoiled. Few areas of the island are well
known or visited; it does not have the grand beaches and amenities to
appeal to the conventional tourist. However, it does have a rugged,
active volcano with rain-forest slopes, lush fertile valleys, rushing rivers
and waterfalls, and mostly black-sand beaches that have not yet been
discovered by most niche market visitors.
Fast Facts
The focus of most island-countries is on the large, major island, while

smaller satellite islands are of much less importance. However, with St.
Vincent and the Grenadines, the situation is just the reverse. It is the
small Grenadines, with their beautiful white-sand beaches, that are of
primary interest. These islands are particularly a sailing paradise, but
water sports of all kinds are enjoyed in an uncommon atmosphere at
locations far from tourist crowds.
Capital
Kingstown, St. Vincent
The Grenadines are an archipelago of secluded and private destination

choices. Whether arriving by plane or yacht, visitors enjoy the quiet
beauty, uncrowded beaches, and special appeal of these islands. The
Grenadines often play host to the rich-and-famous, offering peaceful
getaways, private resort islands, and idyllic yacht harbors.
Land Area
St. Vincent: 133 square miles
Grenadine Islands: 17 square miles
Population
112,000
Languages
English
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Currency
Electricity
220 volts, 50 cycles AC. Adapters and
converter plugs are required.
Like Dominica, St. Vincent was a chief Carib Indian stronghold and one
of the last of the Lesser Antilles to be colonized by the Europeans.
Settlers held only part of the island throughout most of the 1700s.
During this period, the island changed hands several times between
Britain and France.
What was different about St. Vincent, however, was the existence of a
powerful black Carib Indian community. A slave ship had wrecked off
one of the Grenadines in 1675, and its survivors were accepted by
many of the islands Carib Indians. As word got around to nearby
islands, escaping slaves also made their way to St. Vincent. These black
Carib Indians fought with neighboring pure-blooded Caribs and also
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: St. Vincent and the Grenadines
131
fought wars against the European invaders. They finally lost their struggle in 1797, and many were shipped out to Roatn, Bay Islands,
Honduras, where their descendants still live today. Pure-blooded Carib
Indians who had never mixed with the Africans were pushed to the
harsh, volcanic northern part of the island, where a few of their descendants still live. They are the only Carib Indians left in the Caribbean
besides those on Dominica.
Slavery was abolished in 1832. In 1902 economic hard times were
exacerbated by the eruption of La Soufrire, which killed 2,000. The
volcano erupted just two days before Mt. Pele on Martinique, which
killed 30,000. La Soufrire erupted again on Good Friday in 1979,
devastating agriculture in the north, but people were evacuated without
anyone being killed. St. Vincent achieved independence that same year
and remains a member of the British Commonwealth.

There are no direct flights from the United States to St. Vincents
airport. Commuter planes offer direct service from San Juan, Puerto
Rico, and flights from neighboring islands such as Barbados, St. Lucia,
Grenada, and Martinique also arrive at St. Vincent.
The major Grenadine Islands trail south from St. Vincent in the
following order: Bequia (and Petit Nevis), Mustique, Canouan,
Mayreau (and Tobago Cays), and Union Island (with Palm Island and
Petit St. Vincent to the south). Scheduled flights arrive at new airports
on Bequia, Union Island, and Canouan, while charter planes or private
aircraft use the Mustique airstrip. As in the Bahamas, a private charter
is a good option for getting to some of the smaller islands and can be
reasonable in cost.
There is weekly ferry service from Trinidad and more frequent service
from Grenada, and occasional service from Venezuela and Margarita
Island. For the few who may inquire, check schedules at the time of
booking. Many people arrive in the Grenadines by private boat.
At the time of writing, there was one flight a day from St. Vincent to
Bequia (a five-minute flight) with continuing service to Union Island, a
second daily flight direct to Union Island, two flights to Canouan, and
one to Mustique.
Most travelers still take one of the ferries or schooners (about a one-
132
hour trip) between St. Vincent and Bequia, the closest island to the
south. Numerous other ferries, sailing ships, regular fishing boats, and
powerboats connect the islands. You can find an approximate schedule
ahead of time, but this must be double-checked locally. A mail boat
operates several times a week throughout the Grenadines. Short ferries
and taxi-boats connect these islands with the smaller nearby islands.
Clients need a flexible itinerary to use any of the above boat connections
unless the schedule has been carefully checked. However, this is not the
case to and from Bequia, where service is frequent, daily, and punctual.
Those on a budget who want lots of local culture can use the minivan
buses that abound in St. Vincent. A taxi with driver-guide or a car rental
is recommended for those who have limited time and seek convenience.
Clients who rent cars should describe their intended route to the agency
before departing, because roads are narrow and four-wheel drive may be
necessary near the volcano and in other areas. Minivan buses also operate
on Bequia. On most other islands, transportation is informal or on foot.

St. Vincent
With its mountains, valleys, waterfalls, and volcanoes, St. Vincent has
all the ecological wonders of its neighborsluscious St. Lucia, divine
Dominica, and gorgeous Grenada. Compared to these last three
islands, where tourism is just beginning to blossom, St. Vincent has yet
to blossom. This is an island waiting to be discovered by those who
want to see the real Caribbean before development takes place. Most
travelers who do come give it a cursory glance as they head for the
Grenadine of their choice.
Kingstown, the capital, is beautifully situated on the deepwater harbor of Kingstown Bay at the southwestern corner of
the island. Freighters unload their cargo, sailors walk along
Upper Bay Street, and merchants conduct business. Visitors
are transported to a West Indian harbor town as it might have
been a century ago rather than one transformed to entice
tourists. A careful look at the buildings reveals English architecture of the 1700s sprinkled among new concrete ones,
the Fish Market (where you can buy a lot more than fish),
and the new covered produce market.
Kingstowns Botanical Gardens, just north of downtown,
are the capitals primary sightseeing attraction. The gardens were founded in 1765 and are thus the oldest in the Western
Courtesy of
St. Vincent
and the Gr
enadines To
Botanic
urist Office
al
Garden
s
133
Hemisphere. They are home to St. Vincent parrots, green monkeys,

and acres of unusual trees. Those contemplating a tour around the
island will want to begin here.
Did you know?
For two centuries,

breadfruit (a potato-like
starch) has been one of
the food staples of the
Caribbean. However, it
was not originally native
to St. Vincent. Breadfruit was brought here
from Tahiti by Captain
William Bligh, of the
HMS Bounty, after the
infamous mutiny. One
of the main attractions
at the Botanical
Gardens is a breadfruit
tree descended from
the original plant
brought by Bligh in
1793, years after the
gardens had been
established.
Other sights in the capital include Fort Charlotte, dramatically

perched 636 feet above the sea. Views of the coast of St. Vincent in
one direction and the Grenadines in another are worth a 30-minute
uphill hike or a 10-minute taxi ride. The fort saw little military action
and was used primarily to house paupers and lepers. Architecture
enthusiasts will not want to miss St. Marys Catholic Church, with its
mix of Romanesque arches, Gothic spires, and Moorish embellishments, and the stained-glass windows in St. Georges Cathedrals.
Sights along the west coast include the fishing village of Layou, the
nearby Carib Indian petroglyphs that were carved 13 centuries ago, and
the old whaling village of Barrouallie.
Adventure awaits those who tour the rest of the island. East of
Kingstown is Marriaqua Valley, known locally as Mesopotamia Valley
because it is one of the most lush and highly cultivated regions in the
Caribbean. The valley is full of spice farms, forests, banana trees, arrowroot, and other crops that grow in the rich soil. At one time arrowroot,
a somewhat unusual starch, was the leading crop of the island; St.
Vincent still is the origin of much of the arrowroot that is shipped to
the United States.
The relatively few people who tour the island in any depth will visit the
west coast where there are more sights. This means that the east coast
has few tourists. However, the east coast boasts dramatic scenery and
the islands second-largest city, Georgetown. The roads along the coast
do not meet in the north because of the rugged landscape created by
the volcano; therefore, it is impossible to circle the island by car.
Dominating the northern end of the island is the mighty La Soufrire
Volcano. Its most recent eruption in 1979 spewed jets of steam and
ash 20,000 feet into the air, causing people to be evacuated for a 10mile radius. The hike to the craters rim is for the intrepid and should
not be attempted without a local guide. At the top, however, is what
some believe to be the most panoramic view in the Caribbean. Less
serious hikers can try the Vermont Nature Trail and search for the
colorful St. Vincent parrot.
Though many visitors head straight out to the Grenadines, St. Vincent
has accommodations for those who want to get away from it all. Young
Island, a deluxe island resort of Tahitian-style cottages, hammocks, and
tropical lagoons, is just a five-minute ferry ride from the southern tip of
the island (very near Kingstown). Other accommodations include a cou-
134
ple of inns from the late 1700s/early 1800s and an all-inclusive tent
resort (maximum of 16 guests) in a hidden bay accessible only by boat.
The Grenadines
The Grenadines (grehn uh DEENZ), which lie south of St. Vincent, are
composed of 32 small islands, cays, and reefs. Most visitors come to
relax and enjoy the seclusion of unspoiled beaches by turquoise seas.
Mustique, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent, and Mayreau offer mostly
exclusive resorts or deluxe villas. Bequia and Union Island cater to
various markets: to those willing to pay for comfort, to the budgetconscious traveler, and to amateur deckhands looking to sign on with
the next yacht.
Bequia (BEK way), the northernmost and largest of the islands, is a
gem in the string of the Grenadines. It is also easy to reach. Traditional
boatbuilding and boat repairs are chief industries on this authentic
island, though artists models of the big boats are also produced. A
century and a half ago, Bequia was one of the Atlantics best-known
whaling stations.
The town of Port Elizabeth is on picturesque Admiralty Bay, one of
the Caribbeans most alluring yacht harbors. Sun-worshippers can reach
quiet, uncrowded beaches by water taxi from the harbor. Princess
Margaret Beach is named after one of its most well-known beachgoers; it
is a half-hour walk from Port Elizabeth or a few minutes by water taxi.
Moon Hole, a difficult-to-reach community at the southern end of the
island, is a collection of private homes built into the cliffs. They have
been featured in travel and architectural magazines for years and are
worth finding for anyone with the slightest interest in design.
Mustique is six miles south of Bequia. The island is exclusive. Clients
who are looking for a special experience and can book long in advance
might want to stay at one of the luxury lodgings or villas situated
among the million-dollar private mansions. Many of the mansions
themselves can be rented through island realtors or their U.S.
representatives when the owners (such as Princess Margaret, Mick
Jagger, Paul Newman, and Elton John) are not in residence. Powdery
white sands, lush terrain, and a wrecked ocean liner in the distance are
its other attractions.
Canouan is three and a half miles long by one and a half miles wide and
has fewer than 1,000 residents. The island is somewhat low-key but has
several villas, two medium-sized hotels, and a new deluxe offering. The
new Carenage Bay Beach and Golf Club, set on 800 private acres of natural beauty and secluded beaches, has put Canouan on the Caribbeans
135
luxury map. It boasts the only European casino in the Americas, a ballroom, discothque, and copious other facilities and amenities.
Did you know?
The experience of one

visitor in the 1980s is
illustrative of how informal a Caribbean nation
can be. The visitor took
the ferry from St.
Vincent to Bequia and
heard a loudspeaker
continually blaring out a
speech. Upon arrival,
transfer to the hotel
consisted of taking off
ones shoes and walking along the beach. A
female resident of the
island, who was also
walking barefoot toward
the hotel, offered to
carry one of the visitors
bags. After thanking
her, the visitor asked
who was giving that
speech that never
seemed to end. Oh,
thats my husband, the
Prime Minister, giving
the State of the Union
message, and he just
goes on and on.
136
Union Island is the southernmost of the Grenadines that belong to St.

Vincent. It is a hub for ferries and water taxis to the nearby islands of
Mayreau, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent, and the Tobago Cays. The
peak of Mt. Toboi, almost 1,000 feet high, can be seen by sailors from
miles away. The airport has an interesting landing approach: planes
head right toward the mountain before descent.
Other islands easily reached from Union Island include:
Mayreau, a privately owned island of one and a half square miles,
with one resort and no cars or roads
The Tobago Cays, a nature reserve of five uninhabited islets set in
Horseshoe Reef, popular with the yachting set
Palm Island, nurtured as a private island for rest and relaxation and
home to Palm Island Beach Club, whose guests have use of the
entire island
Petit (puh TEE) St. Vincent, another private island, home to the
exclusive Petit St. Vincent Resort
Whats Special about St. Vincent and

the Grenadines?
Each of the islands and islets of the Grenadines has its own special
appealmost as exclusive resorts, others as getaways for those seeking
the ambiance of the old Caribbean, even those on a budget. St.
Vincent is one of the few unspoiled places in the Caribbean.
Unadulterated West Indian atmosphere is its unique trait.
Diving is excellent in these pristine waters, especially off Bequia and the
sandy beaches of its neighbors. Hiking the volcano and other lush areas
and waterfalls on St. Vincent can be an adventure.
However, sailing and yachting are the particular attractions of these
tiny cays and fashionable islands. In the Caribbean, only the British and
U.S. Virgin Islands to the north can match the coves, harbors, beaches,
islets, and many anchorages that make sailing in the Grenadines a
delight. Private yachts and rented bareboats (without crew) or crewed
boats sail the waters year-round, but especially in-season.
Many aspects of local culture, such as music (calypso and steel drum) and
food, share the same roots as other islands, but St. Vincents lushness
adds to the great variety of locally grown foods. Diners will find unusual
vegetables such as christophene, dasheen, taro, and tannia. Sports traditionally lean toward British interests (cricket, soccer, and netball).
The heyday of boatbuilding and whaling is long gone, but many of the
skills and traditions of those times remain intact and are still an honored calling, along with the rugged individualism and resourcefulness
that accompanied them. The islands are also replete with northern
dreamers, both rich and not-so-well-off, coming to create their own
paradise. For the most part, though, agriculture is still the mainstay on
St. Vincent, and per capita income is not high.

St. Vincents Carnival, known as Vincy Mas, takes place in July. The
Easter Regatta on Bequia brings sailors from the seven seas. The
islands recognize many of the traditional British holidays as well.
More than 90 percent of the countrys population lives on St. Vincent,

whereas most tourism is centered in the Grenadines. The population is
a true mixture: a majority of the citizens are of African descent, but a
small number of descendants of Carib Indians still live on the island,
mostly on the northern end in the shadow of La Soufrire. When the
volcano erupted in 1979, they were dispersed with the evacuations;
many did not return. Europeans, Asian Indians, and people of mixed
heritage make up the rest of the population. St. Vincent still exhibits
French influences here and there in speech and place-names (though
less so than other British islands of the Windward Islands), and Spanish
has had an influence on the language.
Island Culture
Did you know?
Plenty of original dishes

are found in St. Vincent
and the Grenadines,
including a cornmeal
and okra dish (corn
cou-cou), specially
cooked tri-tri (a tiny
fish), pelau (the islands
version of paella), and
coconut boileen (a
one-pot meal of fresh
fish, vegetables, green
bananas, pigs tail, and
fresh coconut milk, with
lots of seasonings).
Breadfruit is also popular, and it can all be
accompanied by some
Captain Bligh rum,
lemonade, or local fruit
punch.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines do not have the same style of
all-inclusive that is found on Jamaica, Antigua, and other islands.
However, many of the resorts are inclusive, because they are located
away from an urban area or on islands that have few or no commercial
restaurants other than those at the resort. Having all three meals included, or at least MAP (Modified American Plan), is very common. Food
quality is quite good on these agriculturally rich islands. Kingstown does
have a number of special establishments, including the simply titled
137
French Restaurant, across from Young Island, and King Arthurs, set in
an 18th-century mansion.
Nightlife on St. Vincent and the Grenadines is low-key and centers
around hotel parties and bars with string bands or steel drums. Basils
Bar on St. Vincent is a branch of its famous parent on Mustique,
frequented by the rich and famous. A few small casinos can be found,
but they are hardly the pleasure palaces of more-visited islands. These
and other island nightspots are not frequented by those who need glamour and glitter to prove their importance. In a sense, this nightlife helps
sum up St. Vincent and the Grenadines place on the tourist scenea
destination where some of the most exclusive resorts and some of the
least expensive accommodations in the Caribbean can both be found.
Cruise Call
Few cruise ships call at the working-class port of Kingstown, a situation
that will slowly change as more cruises are added, other islands become
inundated, and passengers look for new experiences. St. Vincent will
not appeal to those simply looking for an extension of their fun ship,
but it will intrigue those looking for an authentic experience. The citys
deep-water dock can handle large ships, and a new port facility opened
in 2000.
Selling St. Vincent and the Grenadines

St. Vincent and the Grenadines are not for the everyday tourist. The
islands might appeal to the adventurous who need no pampering, or
to the illustrious (who are beyond pampering), or to the culturally
curious. But this is definitely a destination for those who want an
authentic Caribbean experience.
The niche market that youve nurtured through the British Virgin
Islands, Antigua, or the Bahamasthose bareboat sailors or small
groups who charter crewed craftwill take delight in the Grenadines,
a place they can return to any number of times. They will find better
sailing and yachting than in most of the Caribbean.
The Grenadines may be a little more difficult to get to (unless clients
have their own private yacht or plane), but those who understand their
qualities will take the trouble. However, the Grenadines are probably
not a good match for clients who are concerned about the less
accessible aspect of the island.
138
Island Secret
Besides those mentioned in the text, another two dozen small islands
make up St. Vincent and the Grenadines. These islets can be explored
on chartered boats or yachts, or on day trips. One hidden spot on the
northern part of St. Vincent is the Falls of Baleine. No road accesses
the falls or this section of the coast. The only way to reach them is by a
boat from Kingstown. The long but scenic trip (about one and a half
to two hours) goes along the coast and past fishing villages. The reward
is a heavenly cove and the falls, which are just slightly inland. The falls,
near the endpoint of a river that flows from the heights of La Soufrire,
drop 60 feet into a natural swimming pool.
Key Points about St. Vincent and

the Grenadines
Kingstown, a West Indian town
1.
La Soufrire Volcano and the lush, volcanic countryside
2.
3.
4.
Bequia
Mustique
Union Island
Resort islands: Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent
Yachting in the Grenadines

St. Vincent and the Grenadines Tourist Office
801 Second Avenue, 21st Floor
New York, NY 10017
Phone: 800-729-1726, 800-235-6451, or 212-687-4981
Fax: 212-949-5946
E-mail: svgtony@aol.com
Web site: www.svgtourism.com
139
Carriacou
Petite Martinique
Hillsborough
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Large Island
Saline Island
Frigate Island
Sugar Loaf
Green Island
Sandy Island
Sauteurs
Gouyave
Pearls
Dougaldston
Estate
Grenville
Grand
Etang
National
Park
GRENADA
CARIBBEAN SEA
St. Georges
Grand Anse Beach
Westerhall Point
Point Salines
Glover Island
Hog
Island Calvigny
Island
Grenada
140
Capital
City or town
Attraction
0
0
Miles
5.3
Kilometers 8.5
Grenada
T
he scent of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and vanilla wafts through

the balmy air of Grenada (grih NAY duh), the fragrant Spice
Island of the Caribbean. Grenada is an independent three-island nation
that offers visitors a balance between development and untouched
beauty. White-sand beaches and mountain waterfalls add to the delight
of the perfumed air, and the harbor of St. Georges is one of the
prettiest in the Caribbean.
Grenadas own Grenadines, the outlying islands of Carriacou and Petite
Martinique, are popular for day trips and scuba and snorkeling excursions. These islands continue the chain of Grenadines that are appended
to St. Vincent to the north. Grenada itself is the farthest south in the
chain of major Windward Islands. Ninety miles of sea separate it from
Trinidad and Tobago, which are only a few miles off Venezuelas coast.
As on Dominica, the Carib Indians on Grenada held the Europeans at bay
for more than 150 years before the French established a settlement and
eventually gained control of the island. On Dominica, the remaining native
peoples fled to a remote part of the island; but on Grenada, the last small
group of Carib Indians threw themselves into the sea from a precipice on
the north coast, now known as Le Morne de Sauteur, or Leapers Hill.
In the course of French-British battles, the island changed hands a
number of times. The French eventually ceded the island to Britain in
the 1783 Treaty of Versailles. However, many French place-names are
still evident on the island, and the people speak a patois mixture of
French and English, in addition to English.
Fast Facts
Land Area
Grenada: 133 square miles
Carriacou: 13 square miles
Petite Martinique: .75 square mile
Population
102,000
Capital
St. Georges
Languages
English, French patois
Time Zone
Drive on
Left
Currency
Electricity
220 volts, 50 cycles AC. A plug adapter
and converter are required.
Harsh treatment of French settlers by the English and slave rebellions

fomented revolt until 1834, when slavery was abolished. In that same
year, nutmeg and other new trees were introduced on the island. At
this time, many Caribbean islands were in economic decline, but the
production of spices provided Grenada with some prosperity. In the
1950s and 1960s, the island was among the first in the Caribbean to
begin to develop itself as a tourist destination.
Grenada became independent from Great Britain in 1974, but 10 years of
Eastern CaribbeanThe Windward Islands: Grenada
141
Note: On September 7,
2004, Grenada suffered a
direct hit by Hurricane Ivan,
resulting in severe damage.
Hurricane Ivan claimed the
lives of 39 Grenadians,
damaged 90 percent of the
homes, as well as public
buildings and schools, and
brought domestic power
supplies, telecommunication
systems and other
infrastructure to a grinding
halt. However, while far from
being what they were prior to
the storm, conditions
continue to improve everyday
as life slowly returns to
normal. With the assistance
of countries and donor
agencies from around the
world, Grenadians are
committed to restoring the
nation back to its former
glory. For the most updated
information on Grenadas
recovery and relief efforts
and the tourism sector,
please visit www
.grenadaemergency.com, the
official Web site of the
Grenada Embassy and
Grenadian consulates, in
conjunction with the Grenada
Board of Tourisms U.S.
representatives.
political turmoil followed. When its strong-willed leader was overthrown in

a revolt in 1979, a group with socialist leanings took over. Though the new
government improved the average persons situation in many areas, the
regime was also repressive. In 1983 a more strongly socialist faction of the
government took power in a coup that killed 60 people, including the
prime minister. Because of the new governments ties to Cubas dictatorship, the United States (along with other Caribbean nations) sent in troops
to rescue U.S. medical students, most of whom did not know they were
in danger. As a result, the socialist government was overthrown. The country then established a political system with free elections, which is still in
place today. Tourism, which had slowed and then stalled for a number of
years, soon began a steady, moderate growth that continues to this day.

The large Point Salines Airport was begun with Cuban assistance and
labor and was later finished with American resources. Its long landing
strip can handle passenger aircraft of any size. Grenada presently has
three nonstop weekly flights on Air Jamaica from New York and once
weekly from Philadelphis from USAir. There are also daily connections
from New York and Miami to Grenada via Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, and
daily direct flights out of San Juan. Other popular connecting points are
Montego Bay, Jamaica, and Barbados.
The airport is at the islands southwestern tip near St. Georges. Almost
all major hotels are also located in this area, so you do not have to
spend much time deciding where to situate your clients. Instead, you
can focus on which cove, beach, or hotel is right for them.
Airport-to-hotel transfers are by taxi and are relatively quick and
reasonably priced.
Buses (mainly minivans) serve most major points of the island from St.
Georges, but travelers should determine when the last bus returns to the
capital (usually in the afternoon).
Grenadas interior is mountainous, its south coast has many coves and
bays, and its shores have 34 beaches. These features make renting a car
and exploring the island a treat; narrow, sometimes potholed roads and
little signage make it an adventure. Most clients prefer to rent a car for
a day or two, spending the rest of their time enjoying the beaches and
accommodations of the southwestern coast. An alternative is an all-day
island tour by taxi or minivan. Smart visitors should weigh the cost of
142
renting a car, gas, and the fee for a local drivers license ($12 as of this
writing) against hiring a driver-guide for a day and getting insight into
local events. The latter option might be preferable in-season and at
other busy times, when some companies require a three-day minimum
for a car rental.
Those traveling from Grenada to Carriacou usually leave from St.
Georges, since the northern part of Grenada has a small population
and limited accommodations. Those with sea legs can choose either
the four-hour boat trip or the hour-and-a-half hovercraft ride. Others
might prefer the frequent interisland flight, which takes 12 minutes.

St. Georges, the capital, has one of the most picturesque seaports and harbors in the Caribbean. Pastel warehouses cling to
the curving shore. Steep streets are bordered by wrought-iron
balconies, red-tile roofs, and frangipani blossoms, all competing to delight the visitors eye. The city has two halves: the
Carenage, overlooking the inner harbor, and the
Esplanade, facing the Caribbean Sea.
The Carenage, the towns main thoroughfare, is a walkway
Courtesy of
along the horseshoe-shaped harbor. There are a few shops
Grenada Bo
St. Geo
ard of Tour
ism
rges, t
and cafs, but the buildings around the walkway are more
he cap
ital
for business than for tourism. Forts and churches adorn
the citys heights. These include Fort George, standing at the
entrance to the bay; Scots Kirk, a Presbyterian church dating from
1831; St. Georges Parish Anglican Church, which was rebuilt in 1825
on the site of the original 1763 structure; and the Roman Catholic
Cathedral. York House, the Parliament of Grenada, is on the same
street as these religious edifices.
The high ridge that divides the two parts of the city is breached by the
340-foot Sendall Tunnel, which was built in the late 1800s. Visitors
may want to stop at Fort Frederick with its excellent view of the harbor.
The afternoon fish market comes alive when the days catch is brought
in, and the citys main produce market is also here. Visitors will not want
to miss it on a Saturday. Shoppers will definitely want to buy some packets of spice, which can be found everywhere. The friendly women selling
them will hardly let visitors get through the day without purchasing one
or more, and Grenadian spices make great gifts at a reasonable price.
Those interested in flora should visit Bay Gardens and Lauras Herb
and Spice Garden. Here they will learn about the islands plants and
what to look for if they plan to explore the lush interior.
143
Just south of St. Georges is the islands most famous Grand Anse
Beach. Its sugar-white sands extend into deep water far offshore and
curve for two miles. Gentle surf and a palm-covered point at the southern end make it an ideal spot. Other beaches continue farther south
and along the greatly indented southern coast.
Did you know?
The newest hotel in

Grenada is the Monmot
Hotel offering 20
suites, located in Lance
Aux Epines, 10 minutes
from the airport.
All of Grenadas hotels are low-rise. Most of them are located along Grand
Anse and the beaches south and east of St. Georges. Accommodation
choices range from guesthouses, cottages, and apartments of moderate
cost, even in-season, to deluxe resorts. One all-inclusive spa, La Source,
shares the area with luxury suite resorts such as the very popular Spice
Island Beach Resort and Calabash Suites. The Grenada Grand Beach
Resort with 240 rooms is currently the largest, followed by the Rex
Grenadian with 212 rooms. Some resorts offer an all-inclusive option.
Some new hotels have 14 to 20 rooms.
Grenada is circled and crossed by roads, giving travelers a choice of
sightseeing routes. Many choose to go one way across the middle of the
island, so they can see its verdant, tropical interior, and return along the
west coast, so they can sample some of the towns, sights, and shoreline
views. A drive around and through the island is perfect for the client
who wants to discover the Caribbean of yesterday and today.
North of St. Georges is the coastal town of Gouyave, the center of the
nutmeg industry. Nearby is Dougaldston Estate, which is still a working
spice factory. Here visitors can see cocoa, mace, cloves, cinnamon, and
nutmeg in their natural state drying in the sun. By driving a bit inland,
clients can reach one or two waterfalls between St. Georges and Gouyave.
Two others lie farther inland, requiring a 30-minute or a 90-minute hike.
Trails into the center of the island lead to Grand Etang National Park
(see below).
The western road follows the coast until the very northern part of the
island, where it veers inland and then returns to the sea at Sauteurs. It
was here that the Carib Indians made their leap into the sea (mentioned earlier). The road along the eastern length of the island stays a
bit inland from the rugged Atlantic coast. It passes the old airport at
Pearls and then the large town of Grenville, where there are more
choices for sampling spices. A rum distillery and Grenadas highest
waterfall (Mt. Carmel Falls) are nearby.
At Grenville the road heads west to cross the islands mountains and tropical interior. Before 1983, this road was the main connection between the
old airport and the capital; it is in good repair but is narrow and winding
and takes time. Myriad opportunities await hikers who want to see the
local flora and fauna in trips to the mountains and waterfalls, and through
dense rain forest. This is especially true in Grand Etang National Park,
144
a bird sanctuary and forest reserve. There is a lake with 13 acres of glassy,
calm, cobalt-blue water in the crater of an extinct volcano. Guides may be
necessary in some areas where trails are not clearly marked. Other nature
reserves and parks attest to Grenadas dedication to ecotravel.
Grenadas Grenadines
Carriacou (kayr ee uh KOO), the largest of the Grenadines, is a hilly

island bordered by beautiful beaches. Like Bequia to the north, its boatbuilding traditions fascinate yachtsmen and other vacationers alike.
Carriacou, the land of many reefs, has a population of about 8,000. Its
capital is Hillsborough. Above the town is Belair, a great house whose
tower affords magnificent views of Grenada. For those who want to get
away from it all, Carriacou has the ambiance of the Caribbean of times
past. Three or four moderate hotels with 6 to 16 rooms are set among
numerous guesthouses and villa, apartment, and cottage complexes.
Those looking for a real getaway can visit Petite Martinique, the only
other inhabited Grenadine that is part of Grenada. To reach this volcanic island, visitors must take a taxi-boat from Carriacou. Principal
occupations here are boatbuilding, fishing, and trading. The island has
about 600 inhabitants. There are few guesthouses, each with several
rooms, but no hotels.
The term Grenadines usually refers to the islands to the north that
are part of the country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. But two of
these islands (and a number of tiny cays and islets) are part of Grenada:
Carriacou and Petite Martinique.
Did you know?
Island ingenuity and

informality are evident
in the fact that
Carriacous main road
runs across the landing
strip of the airport. And
those arriving on the
12-minute flight from
St. Georges should not
be alarmed when they
see the fire truck pull
up. It meets all incoming flights.
Grenadas southwestern beaches rank with the best; indeed, Grand

Anse is often mentioned in lists of Top 10 Beaches of the Caribbean.
Besides the ones mentioned in Around the Island: Attractions,
numerous other hikes have just the right amount of challenge for those
beach-vacationers who also want a bit of adventure. The island has its
share of underwater locations as wellserious divers will want to visit
the relatively untouched waters around Carriacou. Finally, Grenada is
The term Spice Island is most appropriate for Grenada, given the
level of its production; other islands generate various spices, but
Grenada does so abundantly. Otherwise, Grenada is a bit more
difficult to categorize than other islands, as no single special feature
dominates over others. However, it does have some of the best
beaches in the Caribbean and some of the areas best hiking in its
mountains and rain forests.
Whats Special about Grenada?
Did you know?
Grenada has the

largest wreck in the
Caribbean, which is the
Bianca Sea, a 600passenger Italian ocean
liner that caught on fire
and sank in 1961.
145
the southernmost in a chain of islands that is one of the best

sailing locations in the world (see the chapter on St. Vincent and
the Grenadines).
Grenada has a number of first-class and deluxe hotels, but resort life
remains low-key for the most part. No casinos, high-rises, or exciting
nightlife intrudes on those seeking the tranquil Caribbean; however,
development has picked up recently and new hotels are opening, so you
should consult a current list when planning a trip. Accommodations in
guesthouses, apartments, villas, and cottages are available at a moderate
cost. Shoppers will want to buy some island spices, as well as spiced
sauces, jams, and jellies. Also of interest are Grenadian batik and woodcarving, as well as other creations of the vibrant local art scene. Carriacou
artist Canute Caliste is internationally known (see Island Secret later),
and other artists are making their mark.
Island Culture
Like other Caribbean islands, Grenadas culture is quite an amalgam of
a number of ethnic groups. Drum ceremonies little changed from their
African roots meet up with Scottish and Irish customs. French placenames, such as Grande Anse, coexist with English place-names, such as
St. Georges, named in honor of King George III. A French patois is
spoken locally, though it is not nearly as dominant as on the islands farther north. Roman Catholicism and Anglicanism are the islands leading religions. All of these cultural elements, language and religion in
particular, are superimposed on strong African traditions.
On Grenada, time-honored Caribbean traditions of producing and making things have remained strong. Spices are still extracted, cured, and
produced as they were almost two centuries ago. Occasionally boats are
still built on Carriacous shores, under a palm tree, using few modern
power tools. Visitors should try to catch a performance of Carriacous
own folk groupthe Big Drum Dance features music played on drums
made from old rum barrels in an authentic African-Caribbean folk style.
Even though feelings about the 1983 U.S. invasion have waned,
Grenadas political history in the past 40 years is more prominent than
on other islands, in the minds of both citizens and some visitors.
Grenadas food specialties mirror those of nearby islands: callaloo soup,
conch, great seafood, and the usual array of island fruits and vegetables.
Chefs try to use the islands spices to creative advantage. The islands
unique dish is oildown, a stew boiled in coconut milk until the liquid is
absorbed, supposedly making the dish oily. Avocado and nutmeg ice
146
cream will pleasantly surprise diners, while nutmeg almost always tops
off the islands own versions of tropical rum drinks.

Carnival takes place the second weekend in August on Grenada and
before Lent on Carriacou. The week before Carnival, steel-band and
calypso contests are held. Petite Martinique also has a pre-Lenten
Carnival, a feature of which is the greasy-pole competition. Competitors
try to climb a pole suspended over the sea to reach a prize at the end of
the pole. Most fail and fall into the drink, to the delight of the audience.
The Annual Spice Island Billfish Tournament takes place in January.
Highlights for sailors are the Sailing Festival on Grenada (late January
to early February) and the Sailing Regatta on Carriacou (in August);
both feature a festive week of partying and sailboat races. The Parang
Festival, held in Carriacou mid-December, features music highlighting
local rumors provocatively fashioned into song. The Fishermans
Birthday Festival takes place in Gouyave on June 26.

Restaurants in St. Georges and environs are quite varied. Though
international cuisine can readily be found, less deference is paid to
more Americanized tastes. Caribbean restaurants abound, and even the
resort restaurants favor West Indian cuisine more than those on islands
much farther north. Grenadas fantastic produce, abundance of spices,
and remaining French influences have produced a classic Caribbean cuisine that should be sampled as often as possible. Most American diners
will enjoy the adventurous concoctions devised with seafood, land crab,
and the many varieties of vegetables without having to wander into the
culinary unknown of armadillo, opossum, and other such local fare.
Many Grenadian restaurants have colorful locales, sea views, and entertainment on occasion. Some feature steel-drum music on certain days,
and a few restaurants pick up diners from their hotels and return them
at no charge. Strolling calypso strummers who improvise songs about
the diners are one of Grenadas special treats.
Nightlife centers around the hotel lounges and bars, where entertainment consists of steel-drum bands, reggae, calypso, jazz, and folk dancing. Most hotels take turns with some type of entertainment every
night in-season, but things can be much quieter from September to
December. Visitors should be on the lookout for local jump-ups.
147
Cruise Call
Did you know?
A new multimilliondollar cruise terminal is

being built that will be
able to accommodate
at least two megacruise
ships at the same time.
St. Georges harbor is one of the prettiest in the Caribbean. Small to

medium-sized cruise ships can tie up at the dock; from there, it is a
very short walk, along the Carenage, to the towns main sights. Larger
ships must anchor in the harbor and tender passengers to the dock in
the center of town. If visitors want to see the churches and forts above
the harbor, they should be prepared to do quite a bit of walking upand downhill. Guides can accompany them as they negotiate the hills.
Water taxis will take visitors across the harbor, and regular taxis will
take them through the tunnel to get to the market.
Most visitors will head for beautiful Grand Anse beach. To avoid the
hot, crowded minibus ride along the winding two-mile road, they can
take a water taxi along the coast to the beach. The standard organized
tour visits the churches and forts of St. Georges and then a rum distillery and nutmeg- or other spice-producing facility. The interior of
Grand Etang National Park is included on some tours. Few people opt
to take a full island tour, because the harbor and the beach at Grand
Anse are too enticing.
Selling Grenada
Grenada is as attractive as any of the Windward Islands. The facts that
there are few direct flights from the United States and that it is the
most southern of the Windward Islands prevent it from receiving more
U.S. visitors, but it still outdoes a number of its neighbors (Dominica,
St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Martinique, and Guadeloupe). New
additions to its hotel inventory may in turn lead to more air service.
In the meantime, development is being carefully controlled to keep
Grenadas ecosystem and West Indian ambiance intact. Hotels must be
built away from the water, be low-rise, and blend in with their background. This should satisfy ecologically conscious clients as well as those
who just want a beautiful beach in a somewhat exotic environment.
Those who want a taste of the best of the Caribbean in a truly West
Indian atmosphere are good candidates for Grenada. The island has
something for almost everyone: a beach that is second to none, mountains and thick forests in the interior, a distinctive culture and
ambiance, and a unique history. Few first-timers to the Caribbean will
choose Grenada, and few second-timers are even familiar with it. The
same is true of sports enthusiasts and ecotravelers. Grenada has appeal
for most niche markets. Grenada is a good destination for repeat clients
to the Caribbean who want a cultural experience along with sun, sand,
and water sports.
148
Island Secret
Many Caribbean islands appeal to a sometimes forgotten travel niche
market: the art lover. Examples have been suggested in the chapters on
Haiti, the Bahamas, and St. Lucia, in addition to the Caribbean connections of artists such as Gauguin and Matisse.
Canute Caliste, a Grenadian artist of the art primitif, is another such
master. His work is exhibited internationally, and he is revered in his
country. At the time of writing, he is in his early 90s. Among his many
subjects are visions of mermaids, island festivals, and the political events
of 1983. One can view his work at the Carriacou Museum.
Key Points
Spice Island
St. Georges and the Carenage
Grand Anse Beach
Grand Etang National Park
1.
2.
3.
4.
Grenadines: Carriacou and Petite Martinique

Grenada Board of Tourism
P.O. Box 1668
Lake Worth, FL 33460
Phone: 877-708-9554 or 561-588-8176 (for travel agents only)
800-927-9554 (for brochure fulfillment only)
Fax: 561-588-7267
E-mail: cnoel@grenadagrenadines.com
Web site: www.grenadagrenadines.com
Grenada Board of Tourism in Grenada
Phone: (011) 473-440-2279
Fax: (011) 473-440-6637
E-mail: gbt@caribsurf.com
149
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D E S T I N A T I O N

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rench St-Martin (sahn mahr TAHN with nasal n)/Dutch Sint

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Courtesy of St-Martin Tourist Office

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