How to Replace an ABS Control Unit

Select Vehicle
Note: This is a general guide for all vehicles.
Safety Tip:
Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when
necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.

1
Locate your vehicles OBD connection.

2
Plug your scan tool into the OBD connection with the key in the ON position.

Photo may not be

specific to your vehicle

3
Gather all trouble codes and refer to a vehicle specific service manual for a trouble code index that directs you to the
specific component.

Disconnect your vehicle's negative cable.

Photo may not be

specific to your vehicle

5
Locate your ABS control module on the driver's side front corner of the engine compartment.

Photo may not be

specific to your vehicle

Photo may not be

specific to your vehicle

6
Disconnect (unplug) the wiring from the ABS control module.

7
Use the appropriate tools to remove the mounting bolts that hold the ABS control module in place.

8
Remove the failed module and replace with the new unit.

9
Plug in the wiring terminal back into the brake ABS module.

10
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery.

11
Road test the vehicle. Multiple styles of driving such as full throttle, idle and deceleration are recommended in order for
the brake ABS module to relearn proper commands.

12
Be sure to clear all codes present.

13
Turn off the vehicle.

14
Turn on the vehicle.

15
Check your scanner connection for any codes remain present.

MKIII VR6: ABS Pump and Module Removal and Replacement

Preface:
My ABS light was on and stayed on while driving. I located a used hydraulic pump and module unit
(you can separate them, I think) and replaced the whole unit. My car is a 1998 GTI VR6 with
111,000 miles equipped with the TEVES 20 GI ABS system. This system controls the ABS/EDL
(Anti-lock brakes and Electronic Differential Lock). On cars 96+ (without a brake proportioning
valve), the module also controls front/rear brake bias. Apparently, the module is known to fail on
many other European cars including Volvo and Seat. A picture of the engine bay is below.
The numbers and codes from my ABS module are:
Component:

ABS/EDL ITTAE20 GI V00

Module:

3A0 907 379 E

Code:

03704

Tools required:
1. VAG-COM Diagnostic tool or Ross-Tech
2. T-25 Torx driver
3. 11mm line wrench (or flare nut)
4. 13mm line wrench (or flare nut)
5. 10mm box wrench
6. New hydraulic pump and module
7. Brake parts cleaner
8. 2-3 liters of brake fluid
9. Brake bleeder or a clean glass jar and some clear tubing for 2 man bleeding
The Symptoms:

ABS light on and stays on while driving. I used the VAG-COM to read the fault codes (DTC) and got
this Code:
Fault code 01276: Hydraulic Pump - V64 Signal outside specifications
Things to check first:
There are 2, 15-amp, fuses at the top of the fuse/relay board. Make sure that they are not
blown. Also there is another fuse in the main row of fuses that is related to ABS check that one,
too.
The procedure: (removal)
1. First, use the VAG-COM tool and write down the numbers and codes for your control
module. You will need this later!
2. I suggest you do this on a cool engine, or you will likely burn your forearms. I would also
recommend jacking the car up and placing it on jack stands at all four corners, since it makes it
a lot easier to bleed later with all four wheels removed.
3. Disconnect the battery (both terminals, negative first) then remove it, as you will need the
room.
4. Drain the brake reservoir using a turkey baster, or open a bleeder screw and allow the fluid to
run until the reservoir is empty. Discard the old fluid; you should use fresh fluid to refill the
system.
5. Place a rag or towel under the brake master cylinder as you will lose some fluid and you wont
want it to sit on the CV boot.
6. Loosen all 6 lines running into the ABS. The two top lines are 13mm and the 4 bottom lines
are 11mm. Unscrew all of the lines and move them out of your way (they wont move far
because they are not flexible).
7. Disconnect the wiring harness from the module. It is located on the outside of the module. To
disconnect it, you must pull the small T shaped handle toward the front of the car. It will
move about 1 inch then you can move the plug out of your way.
8. Use the T-25 Torx to loosen the 3 brass colored bolts on the upper surface of the ABS unit. The
front one is easy to see. It is the size of a nickel and brass with a rubber bushing under it. The
other 2 are in the back corners but you can get to them fairly easily. You dont need to remove
the screws from the mounting bracket. It is easier to access the rear bolts if you disconnect the
brake fluid level sensor on the reservoir above the ABS unit.
9. Once the screws are unbolted GENTLY wiggle the unit forward. Be careful not to kink or
bend the brake lines while removing it. There are a wiring harness and a coolant hose that pass
in front of the ABS unit. If you have a helper, have him hold the harness and hose out of the
way.
10.At this point you can separate the module from the hydraulic pump assembly and swap with
the new part. I replaced both parts (pump and module)

11. To install a new unit, simply reverse the removal process.

12.After installing the unit and attaching all the lines (dont over-tighten) and plugging in the
wiring harness you will need to refill the brake fluid reservoir and bleed the brakes. Start with
the rear passenger caliper; then do the rear driver, front passenger, and then front driver. After
you bleed the brakes, you will notice that you wont have a very good pedal feel (i.e., it will go
to the floor). Thats OK; youll correct this later. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up
during the bleeding process to keep air out of the lines.
13.Re-install the battery.
14.Use the VAG-COM to check the coding of your new ABS module. The data should match the
data you copied down in step 1. If not, re-code the module as necessary.
15.Then cycle the pump using the VAG-COM software. To do this, choose ABS Brakes from
the main menu. Then select Test Output and follow the on-screen instructions. The
computer will cycle the pump, and then test each of the valve positions, one corner at a
time. After this is done, you should have good brake feel again. Ive heard that running the
pump for more than 30 seconds or so could lead to the pump overheating and susbsequent
damage, so accomplish this procedure reasonably quickly.

16.I re-bled my brakes to get any air released by the pump, cleaned the calipers with brake parts
cleaner, and Voil! Your ABS light should be out and your ABS will work again. During the
first road test, I noticed that the pedal was slightly mushy and had slightly greater travel. This
went away after driving the car for a day or so and became very firm and confident feeling.
YMMV.
his is not meant to be a full 'how to', but rather to give enough information to enable a competent DIYer to decide whether or not to undertake repair of the ABS/ESP unit following a 'G201 sensor failure' in
the ABS/ESP hydraulic unit. The information is taken from German forums and I've translated it into
English. I assume that the repair kits sold in the UK will come with English instructions, so just the
basics are given here...
NEEDED:
Repair kit 1K0 698 517 B (129+VAT). Suitable as a replacement for the hydraulic blocks:
1K0 614 517 B, C, D, E, H, J, M, N, Q, T, AA, AB, AE, AF; 3T0 614 517, 3TO 614 517 A and 2K3 614
517
Access to VCDS or similar tool.
Pressure bleeding kit (e.g. Gunson's EazyBleed).
DIAGNOSIS:
ESP light stays on irrespective of ESP switch position.
Connect VCDS.

Open the braking Controller and go into Measurement Block 5 to monitor the brake pressure recorded
by the G201 sensor. The value of the brake pressure should be proportional to the pressure on the
brake pedal. When the brake lights just illuminate the value of the pressure shown in Measuring Block 5
should not be more than 4 Bar. If it is, then check the brake light switch and/or perform a 'Basic
Setting' on the pressure sensor (see later). If the pressure reading is stuck at a high value, irrespective
of the pressure on the brake pedal, then the G201 sensor has failed and you need to get the repair kit.
REPAIR OF ABS/ESP UNIT:
Disconnect battery earth lead and remove battery if it makes access to the ABS unit easier (depends on
model).
Remove the electrical connector from the ABS unit.
Open the front-left and rear-right brake bleed nipples.
With a stick/pole wedge the brake pedal about 60mm down from its resting position (this is to close off
the ports to the master cylinder).
Close the previously opened bleed nipples.
Take a picture/drawing of the locations of the brake pipes as they connect to the ABS unit.
Remove the brake pipes from the ABS unit - first the two pipes that enter horizontally and then the four
pipes that enter vertically.
Using the bungs supplied with the kit, block off the ports in the ABS unit to avoid fluid spillage.
Pull upward and rotate the ABS unit out of its holder and remove from the car.
Now replace the hydraulic unit with the new one supplied in the repair kit - this is simple (just two long
setscrews, 6Nm torque). Be sure to keep brake fluid away from the electical contacts. DO NOT separate
the motor from the ABS unit!
With the new part fitted the ABS/ESP unit can be refitted into the car.
Refit the brake unions and refit the battery and earth lead.
Remove the stick from the brake pedal.
Connect VCDS and clear any fault codes.
Now use your pressure bleeder to 'pre-bleed' the hydraulics.
Firstly open both front bleed nipples and bleed simultaneously.
Then repeat at the rear and bleed both rear brakes simultaneously.
Using VCDS, connect to the braking controller. With NO PRESSURE on the brake pedal the pressure
reading in Measurement Block 5 should be within the range +/- 3.8 Bar. If it is outside of that range
then go into Measurement Block 66, login with code 40 168 and perform a zero-point calibration using
the 'Basic Settings' option.
Finally bleed the brakes in the conventional manner (one brake at a time, FL, FR, RL, RR) to conclude
the job and perform a road test.

IMAGES (from the Motor-talk.de forum)

Repair kit package label:

New hydraulic unit (still with protective packaging on):

Underside of the new hydraulic unit (packaging removed) - the two holes where the
clamping setscrews pass through are visible:

Front of the new hydraulic unit:

Hope this helps some doing the repair. The instruction come in english and german and are very poor
quality the pics are poor too...but here are the instructions.
Instructions came with ABS repair kit 1k0698517B.
All health and safety not included and individual should have the necessry training to carry such work
and at your own risk. Supplied for info only not as a guide.
1. General Notes to the MK60-p ESC
The brake system is split diagonally. Brake boost is created from the vacuum servo booster. The Mk60
unit (HECU) consistes of the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and the electronic control unit (ECU).
Seperation of the unit is only possible after removal of the MK60 unit.

2. General notes for removal.

The change of components is only permitted by qualified personnel with the assistance of the service
and repair instructions of the OEM
Vehicle is standstill
Use on board diagnostics to find out whether the failure cause refers to a pressure sensor failure in the
HCU (dtc 01435 069B) ***(i THINK THIS SHOULD BE G201)***

Take car of ESD (electro static discharge)

Pick spare parts out of package just before assembly
Incorrect assembly can result is negative performance of braking system.
Ensure absolute cleanliness when working.
Clean surface of ECU with mineral oil prior to work
Ensure no fluid enters the electrical connector
Dont use compressed air when the system is opened or move car
Electrical connectors at connector, pressure sensor and ECU as well as sealing elements must not be
touched.
Remove all componenets that restrict acess to braking system.
Close all hydraulic ports immediately with appropriate caps after dissasembly of the ESC unit.
HECU assembly/diaasembly on work bench only.

3.Hydraulic-Electronic control unit removal

Switch off ignition and disconnect GND (earth) pole of battery.
Remove electronic connector by pulling out the lock on the connector and remove the connector.
Push down on brake pedal approx 60mm with a stick/bar or the proper brake depress tool. This closes
the TMC central valves and stops fluid running out of the open system.
Connect bleed bottles to one front wheel and one rear wheel on the same side. Open the bleeder
nipples to decrease pressure that was built up in the brake system before.
Identify the pipes and remove the brake lines leading to the TMC at HCU first. Close open ports with
included caps immediately.
Identify the pipes and remove the brake lines to the brake circuits. Close ports with caps.
Loosen and remove screws securing the HCU in the ........ bracket(unreadable).
Remove complete unit from bracket.

4. Diassemble Electronic Control Unit

Loosen and remove both torx head screws. New ones inc in kit.
The pump is not connected anymore be careful
Hold tight the pump motor and HCU and remove the ECU (so basically you are removing the bit that
never came with your repair kit 1k0698517B.
The pump motor adapter can be torn out of the electronic controller during dissasembly due to
corrosion and remain in the valve block bore. In this case the complete HECU has to be exchanged
If the ECU has damaged contact pins (ECU connector DC motor contact pins) the ECU cannot be used
and a complete HECU has to be exchanged

5 Prepare new ECU and new HCU for assembly

In a re-assembled ECU the pressure sensor contact may not be touched or damaged.
The housing edge of the pressure sensor also must not be damaged (sealing element)
No humidity or dirt are allowed to enter the ECU
Avoid ESD (electro-static discharge

6. Assemble ECU

Assemble used ECU and new HCU without canting.

Secure ECU to HCU with new torx screws 5.5+0.5Nm
(note HECU is not sealed before complete assembly)

7. HECU refitting

important- The port covers and the pump motor assembly aid of HCU should only be removed when the
connecting pipe or brake line is ready to be fitted. This prevents dirt ingress and contamination of the
brake system and reduces fluid loss.
Insert unit into the holding bracket and torque securing nuts to 8 + 2 Nm
Remove port covers and pump motor assembly aid and connect wheel circuit lines to valve block
ensuring each one is in correct place.
Repeat process for master cylinder pipes. Ensure connection go on square to prevent cross threading
Torque pipes to 13-20Nm
Reconnect battery
Connect ECU harness and lock connector
Fill brake fluid resevoir to MAX with Dot 4 brake fluid and bleed vehicle as shown in workshope manual
Calibrate pressure sensor of ABS using Vag-com/VCDS
Switch on ignition and ABS and ESP warning lights should go out.
Clear the ESP fault using Vagcom/vcds and rescan for faults.
One final test drive make sure that min, one brake cycle was done with ABS control (pulsation in brake
pedal must be felt)......I think this mean bleeding the ABS using Vagcom but my opinion only.)

8. Genral notes for assembly.

Only use Dot 4 brake fluid.

Subsequent to rework or repair of the brake system, completely check both the conventional and ABS

parts for correct function according to workshop manual. Check hydraulic ports and connection for
leakage.
(assembly and dissasembly of ECU and HCU only permitted for maximun of six times.)

This guide is for information and not as a description of how to carry out this repair.
I've added a few bits of grammar here and there.....I was never anygood at english anyway. If
something does not compute let me know and I will check instructions again just incase I made a
mistake. Most of this process is in elsawin if you have it.

ABS Control Module Replacement Service &

Cost
What is an ABS Control Module all about?
ABS (anti-lock brake system) is a safety system that prevents your car from skidding or sliding when you
apply the brakes. There are two main components: the ABS speed sensors and the ABS control
module. When the brake is applied, the ABS control module reads the speed data from the speed
sensor and sends the correct pressure to each wheel to prevent any sliding/skidding (wheels locking
up). If the ABS module or one of the sensors goes bad, the ABS warning light will turn on and it will
disable the ABS. You will still be able to slow down and stop your car, but it will not prevent the wheel
from sliding when you apply the brakes (especially critical on wet or slippery surfaces).

How it's done:

Confirm that the ABS control module is bad.

Remove and replace the ABS module if needed.

Bleed the brake system.

Add new brake fluid.

Test drive the car.

Inspect the brake system.

Our recommendation:

Follow the manufacturers recommendations on regular brake service for your car.

If the ABS light is on, get the ABS system inspected as soon as possible and avoid driving on
slippery roads (rainy days) completely.

During a brake service, your mechanic should make sure the sensor is free of debris and/or
grease, which could prevent the sensor from functioning properly.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to

replace the ABS Control Module?

ABS Light is on

Brakes are not working

Very hard brake pedal

How important is this service?

All services associated with proper function of your brakes are important. In addition to safety issues,
ignoring small repairs can quickly lead to more serious (and more expensive) problems.

How much does ABS Control Module Replacement cost?

It depends on the type of car you drive and the auto repair shop you go to. Our mechanics are mobile,
which means they don't have the overhead that repair shops have. They provide you convenience by
coming to your home or office.

ABS Pump - Range Rover Classic

Pump:Wabco 111, 3391, A0074, 418-501-010-0, NTC-6889
Electric Motor: Wabco 009, 443001, 0080, 1BB42, 12V
ABS relays/fuses

ABS Pump/Motor

ABS Removal

Ah, the ABS motor and pump. Lovely little design, parts for which are kept under lock and key by
the British M5 Service with people like 007 making sure no rebuild parts ever fall into the hands of
the evil Dr. No, or his henchman (people like us.)
What follows is my attempt at making my pump last longer. It was making a very loud whiney
noise. I obtained a failed pump, used, and used some parts from it to make my own pump work
properly. I tried to source bearings and other motor bits, but to no avail.
If you have found a source of parts for these little sons of bitches, please forward that info on to me,
many, many people would be made very happy if you did.

Oh, and it did work so far... I've had the pump apart five or six times now to finally get the bearing
cleaned up enough to freely spin. When it is super cold out side (<15F), the pump will again start to
whine, but when the ambient temperature warms, the noise goes away. I plan on moving from
Wisconsin to Miami to avoid the noisy pump problem.... it would be cheaper for me to move my
family to Florida, then replace that damn pump.
Cheers... John.

ABS pump, pressure switch, and motor located on driver's side (NAS) inner fender:
I have the rear plastic wiring cover removed on this pump.

The infamous ABS motor, with its pants off! It don't look so damn scary now, does it? Well,
it's not, unless you are trying to find parts to rebuild it! This particular motor was fried by a
faulty ABS relay that stuck on and burned out the armature, brushes and the brush holders
(plastic):

The actual hydraulic pump portion of the device. The silver piece is where the motor fits in
so as to turn the pump. You can see the impeller pump bearing on the outer diameter.

Here I took off the silver motor coupling, the pressure switch is upper right with the electrical
connector:

The electric motor on the left fits into the abs pump on the right, but first the silver coupling
must be set in the black pump body:

Here are two ABS pump impellers, only one per pump. This is the part that actually builds
brake fluid pressure, ultimately charging the accumulator with high pressure brake fluid:

The impellers have little metal cylinders which fit in the side of the black donut, when the
motor spins them inside the pump body, the metal cylinders are forced outward by
centrifugal force. They are retained by the bearing in the pump body.

This bearing retains the metal cylinders as they are spun by the motor, it's hard to see here,
but the center shaft on which the black pump cylinder rides, is actually OFF CENTER to the
bearing. This allows a varying volume to be created by the spinning metal cylinders
because they are constantly extending out of and retracting into the black pump cylinder.
Look above at the pics with the black pump cylinder in the pump body and you'll notice the
gap is NOT constant between the bearing and the black ring, this is where the brake fluid is
pressurized as the motor spins.

Here a side view of the metal cylinders that create the pumping action.

Bleeding the pump after install is easy, just open the bleed screw and let gravity force out
the air, make sure your master cylinder is topped off, and clean brake fluid will soon emerge
from the pump body all over your nice inner fender well. Manual says "use clean absorbent
towels..." I say "...what a crock of baloney!"
If you think THIS is bad, wait till you bleed the accumulator! You'll have a nice pool of brake
fluid down below the master cylinder that is hard to completely remove. If your truck is like
mine, there'll be a nice crease of rust where previous brake work has left paint-eating brake
fluid sitting there for years because the mechanic didn't take enough time to thoroughly
clean the fluid up... thanks!
My personal suggestion: "...use clean absorbent cloths..."
You can just see the bleed screw poking up from the "...clean absorbent cloth..."

Ron Beckett made a good comment on this last picture... just rinse the area well with water... you
should be able to remove the brake fluid with enough water.

Assorted ABS Motor Notes, text, and opinions...

Volvo ABS pump/Module failure

The Volvo ATE Teves ABS module is located underneath the main ABS pump and can be removed from it with a 4mm
socket. The module can be rebuild and sent back normally within 48 hours and comes with a Lifetime unlimited mileage
.*warranty
We have been rebuilding these modules for Volvo main dealers and specialists for many years now so you can be assured
of our very high standard of work. We always replace components with higher than standard spec to ensure a rebuilt unit
.will never fail again
Volvo ABS pump/Module failure
Volvo 850 with TRACS 2/4WD ABS system 1996-1997 Volvo C70, S70 and V70 with TRACS ABS system 1998-2001 2/4WD Volvo ABS system and newer Volvo S80 with ABS/STC system 1999 ECU Type - ATE Teves
ECU location: Fitted to the back of the ABS pump (held on with four torx screws that are easily removed with a 4mm
.socket)
Price: 145 with two year warranty
Delivery: Next working day before 1pm

This is a very common failure on all Volvo ABS pumps built after 1995, causing the ABS light to come on along with the
tracs light if fitted. When the fault codes are read there will usually be a fault code blaming the high pressure pump
and/or a fault code blaming one or more wheel speed sensors. The fault is normally always the ABS module when these
faults occur. We can rebuild your own ABS pump/module for 145 + postage, or we can supply replacement units from
stock (ring for replacment prices as they vary depending on part numbers)

.
It is worth noting that the ABS module can be removed and the pump left in place thus alowing the vehicle to be driven
.with normal braking (no ABS)
We will need your unit for approximately 2 - 3 working days to complete the full rebuild (times may vary depending on
current workload & demand). If you would like to arrange for your unit to be tested and rebuilt then please fill in this test
.form

DIY - ABS Hyraulic Unit Repair - BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X):

'via Blog this'

I needed some wheels a few months ago so I took a chance on a 1998 BMW E36 (3 series) Estate. I bought the car for

500 so did expect a few issues. Here is what has been replaced so far:

1. Brake pads
2. Brake pad sensors
3. Back shocks and 1 collapsed coil
4. Back wiper unit and control unit (still not working :-( )
5. ABS sensors, front and back

The ABS light is still on and I took it to a "guy" to reset the diagnostic code after the sensors were replaced.
Unfortunately it seems to be the ABS Pump at fault.

It seems this is a known issue so I will fix it myself when the rain and sleet stops in the UK.

Here are three articles I found.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202

1. Remove the ABS pump (hydro unit)

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Sukc out as much of the brake fluid as you can from the fluid
resevoir (a turkey baster works nicely). The pump is located beneath the master cyclinder. You'll have to
remove your MAF from the throttle body. It is NOT necessary to remove the brake resevoir or master
cylinder. It is a good idea to label all the lines so you know where everthing goes when you reassemble.
You may run into problems removing the hose clamps from the connections to the fluid resevoir. This is
actually the hardest part of the whole DIY. BMW uses those lovely single-use sacrificial crimp clamps. You will
have to cut them off with your Dremel. DO THIS VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY, or you will be buying a new
fluid resevoir. Also be sure you have some replacement screw-type hose clamps ready for when you
reassemble (unless you are masochistic and want to intall new BMW crimp clamps).

2. Remove pump (continued)

The pump is held in place by a single bolted rubber stopper in the front of the unit. There are two more
stoppers in the aft of the pump which fit into two retaining cups. Loosen the front nut and tilt the front
upwards, and pull the whole thing out.
Warning: Be prepared for fluid spillage.

3. Remove bottom plate

Marvel at your solenoids.

4. Test electrical connections

Refer to wiring diagram below. The diagram on the right (from Bentley) is only for 1995-96 without AST. The Table on
the left is compiled from the Teves Mk IV manual.
From the Teves Mk IV manual that you downloaded, you can determine the expected resistances across the various
valves. All the testing will be done at the 12-pin connector on the pump. You should be able to verify the faulty valve
from your diagnostic sheet.

_________________

5. Remove filament wire

Un-solder the filament wire. THIS THIN FILAMENT is the culprit. With age it sometimes cracks or tears or
corrodes. Don't bother trying to find the break in the circuit, it is virtually impossible to see. Just remove the
whole thing.

6. Gasket seal
Before reattaching the harness to the hydro, put a bead of gasket sealant on the edge where the harness
mates with the pump body.

7. Rewire the valves

Here is the path for my particular unit. This isn't an exact tracing of the filament. I had to go the long way
for some wires (for example, T to A to D to E to B ).

Rewiring in progress
Commentary: After doing this little exercise, I realize why BMW went with filament wire instead of full-on gauged wires: filament is

easier to install. The entire circuit is pre-printed & mass produced on the conductor film; all the assembler has to do is sauder all the pins in
order, much faster on an assembly line. No need to route individual wires. The drawback is that the filament eventually corrodes or disintegrates,
causing a fault.

8. Verify your wiring

Once you are done wiring, re-test the resistances at the pins using the table in step 4 above. If you did
everything right, the readings should now be within spec.

http://www.staffordnet.net/repairs/bmw/abs_pump_rewire.htm

ABS Pump Rewire

This is how I rewired my ABS pump in my

1996 BMW 328i

Remove the pump by taking off the 5 or 6 fluid lines, disconnecting the electrical connector, and
removing that one nut at the front end of the pump assembly. Takes about 10 minutes to remove. It
might be easier if you remove any little bits that are hovering above the pump assembly. I took off the
MAF and air tube and moved some other stuff around to make it easier.

Once it is off, take it to your bench and CAREFULLY clamp it in a vise or otherwise position it in a stable manner so
that you can remove the plate on the bottom. There are 6 torx headed bolts that you remove to get to this area of the
pump.
This is what it looks like at first:

Note all the corroded flexi-cable.

Here is what it looks like after you carefully desolder and remove all the flexicable and rewire it:

Here is a wiring diagram I drew up.

All the solenoids share a common contact, and these are all tied back to pins 2 and 7 on the connector. Notice that
pins 2 and 7 on the connector are also common. I numbered these myself and these numbers mean nothing and do
not relate to any numbers you may find on the connector.
I started at the right side of the connector from the perspective that my pictures were taken and numbered it from right
to left. I did this also because the wires come into that connector from the right.
I have no idea what gauge of wire to use. I am obsessive, so I went bigger than I am sure you really need to. To do it
over again, I would buy a good grade silicone insulated wire so that you wouldn't have so much trouble melting the
insulation during the soldering job. We used 16 gauge, but I bet 18 gauge would be easier to work with and still meet
operating expectations as well.
I bled the brakes normally starting at the farthest wheel and working my way in. The normal way, having someone
pump then hold the brakes while I cracked the nipples. I went ahead and bled them until the fluid was clear so
effectively changing the fluid, but I don't think you HAVE to do it that way. Lots of people talk about shorting the relay to
activate the pump during bleeding, but I didn't do it, and I have used the ABS several times after this repair and it is
working fine and I still have normal brake pedal feel and pressure.
My ABS light went right off after we were done bleeding the brakes and started the engine.
Hope this helps you and good luck in your repair!

Paul
Email me

--------------------------------------------http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=341672

The definitive guide to self diagnosing your ABS/ASC light.

Look familiar?
If you're like me, one of your biggest pet peeves is a Christmas tree dash. Some people don't mind trouble lights on; I
am not one of those. I cant stand the feeling that something is wrong with my car.
A BMW dealer will quote you anywhere between 1-2 hours of diagnoses charges (@ ~$120.00/hr) to read your
ABS/ASC faults for you. If you are all about saving money, and learning something at the same time, you may find this
useful. I will show you how to find the faults in your ABS/ASC system using a simple multimeter without being at the
mercy of the dealer.

To start off, download the proper ETM for the year of your vehicle from TIS online. In this you will find the proper pin out
info for your year. Use this link:
http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_97.pdf
Change the year in the above link to match your vehicle. Example: if you are working on a '99 change it to:
"http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_99.pdf"
You will need to remove your glovebox to access your ABS/ASC computer connector. Here they are:
Computer:

Connector:

Here is how the pin numbers are laid out in the connector:

I ignored the assignments off to the left, they're wrong as far as my '97 was concerned. Use the ETM you downloaded
for the proper pin assignments for your vehicle.
For a '97 we refer to the following assignments for reference:

Some of the most common things that will cause an ABS fault in your system are amongst the following:
1. A faulty wheel speed sensor
2. A bad ABS relay
3. A bad pedal travel sensor
4. A stuck/clogged solenoid valve
5. A faulty ABS pump motor
6. A bad brake light switch

Testing your wheel speed sensors.

Perform all of these tests with the ignition in position 3.
Our cars use Variable Reluctance type wheel speed sensors. In the tip of the WSS is a magnet and a coil that
produces an AC voltage proportionate to the rotational speed of the wheel. This signal is sent to your ABS computer
where it uses it to monitor the speed of your wheel rotation to decide when to activate/deactivate the ABS solenoids.
Test the sensor for proper resistance:
The specification for resistance of the sensors per BMW is between .5 -2 Ohms. Test this by identifying the proper pins
in your connector that apply to that sensor. Let's use the rear Right for example. Using the above pinouts we see that

pins 10, 45 are the 2 pins for the sensor. To measure the resistance over the WSS, apply your black multimeter probe
to pin 10 and the red on pin 45. With your multimeter set on ohms you will get a reading. Do this on all 4 sensors. If the
sensor is out of spec for resistance, replace it.

Test the sensor for proper function:

With your multimeter set to read AC volts, remove the wheel, then unplug the sensor from the harness. Probe the + pin
in the connector on the harness side with red, and the ground pin with the black and spin the wheel. You should see
your voltage produced increase with speed of the rotating wheel. Do this for all 4 sensors. If the voltage is not
consistent with wheel speed replace the sensor.

Verify proper power supply to the ABS computer.

The ABS computer gets numerous 12V inputs from different areas all pretty much through the ABS relays/fuses. Using
your multimeter set to DC volts, connect your black probe to pin #1 on your connector and leave it there while you
perform the following tests. Referring again to the above pinouts, we see that we should have a 12V supply to the
ABS/ASC computer at pins: 3,16,33,35,51 with the ignition in pos. 3. Using your red multimeter probe, touch all of
these (may be different for your year) pins and verify that there is voltage there. If there is not, you have a bad power
protection relay (stuck open) and/or fuses, and your ABS computer is not getting power. Make sure that your ABS
computer is getting power by checking all the necessary pins for 12V. Your actual voltage will vary but it should be
close to the measured static voltage of your battery which is close to 12V but could be as low as 11 or more in some
cases depending on your battery. A voltage below 7 volts will trigger a fault code and turn your ABS/ASC light(s) on.

Test your ABS power protection relay.

Your abs power protection relay is an internally fused relay that is designed to blow and open when subjected to over
voltage protecting your ABS computer from damage. If the relay is bad you will not have any power at the pinouts
outlined above in the 12V power tests. If you do not have power in the previous test at the specified pins, this relay has
tripped. If this is the case, remove the relay, and test the pins again; you should have full power everywhere with the
relay removed. If you have power again after removing the relay; replace it.
Here it is:

Some more in depth testing info:

The way this relay works is; when power is applied over pins 85, and 86 you energize the coil magnet and it closes the
relay. The closing of the relay is what completes the circuit and allows current to flow through it.
Make sure the diode in the relay works. A diode is a one way valve for electricity; only letting it flow one direction. Put
your multimeter on resistance. Put the red terminal on pin 30a, and the black on 30. You should see a resistance
reading between 50-100 Ohms. Now reverse your probes, putting the black probe on pole 30a and red on 30, you
should now see infinite resistance. If neither of the above cases is false, the diode is bad and warrants replacing the
relay entirely.
Test the continuity of the inner circuitry. Before energizing the relay, put your multimeter on continuity test. Red on pin
30 and black on 87a, you should register contact and hear a beep and/or signal that your multimeter makes to signal
continuity.
Power up your relay by adding 12v across pins 85/86. you should hear a click. If so, the circuits are closed. Verify that
they work by testing again for continuity, this time red on 87, black on 30. 87a no longer applies when energized
because it becomes disconnected when the relay closes.

Test your ABS pump inlet/outlet solenoids.

Do this with your ignition in pos. 3. Our ABS systems are 4 circuit systems. Each hydraulic circuit to each wheel has 2
solenoids. 1 to modulate inlet pressure and 1 to modulate outlet pressure. Referring to your proper pin out, select which
valve you want to test. Example, lets pick the inlet valve from the rear right. According to the above pinout, the pin to
control it is pin #39. Set your multimeter to measure resistance. Connect your black probe to ground (pin 1 or any other
ground pin) and the red one to pin 39. Specs for resistance for the valves are:
Inlet: 2-9 Ohms
Outlet: 2-7 Ohms
anything out of spec is likely a stock/clogged solenoid and would warrant a replacement abs pump.

Test your brake light switch

With multimeter set on DC volts, probe pin 1 with black, and 32 with red. Push your brake pedal. With the brake pedal
pushed, you should have 11+ volts displayed. With the pedal at rest with no pressure you should have 0 volts.

Test your hydro pump motor for operation.

Do this with accy pos. 3 on. Measure the resistance between the 2 ABS pump sensor signals; pins 49, 50 in this case.
BMW spec is 10-40 Ohms for the connection. Out of spec means new ABS unit. Within spec = continue reading. If
resistance checks out, go to your fuse box and pull your abs pump motor relay. Its the 5 pole relay, not 6 pole. Jump the
always hot pole to your pump supply line. (ID this by looking at the diagram on the side of the relay.) You should hear
the pump start up, if not, its nad.
ABS Module replacement (540it)
Dang... I, like many others got the dreaded DSC, ABS and Yellow Brake light on a quick run to the Bay Area
last week in my 1999 540it. As a bonus, I got a SES light on the return trip.

Carsoft read the error as a right rear wheel sensor error.

I replaced that wheel sensor to no avail. I was getting the lights when the car warmed up. (Although SES
remained solid, no codes) After reading more and talking to Jared, I decided to replace my ABS sensor. While
I could have send my module in to be repaired, I went new for $450.00, plus tax for a new Bosch module.

This is a 20 min replacement for the module. This includes the time to take the airbox off for easier access.
It's sooo simple, it really dosen't require the pictures I did here, but I read some folks asking what it takes...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------For this DIY, you'll need a 10 mm socket and screwdriver for removing the air filter box. I used a 1/4" ratchet
with 6" extension and T20 six point Torx for removing the ABS module.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------First, remove the air filter housing to gain better access to the ABS module lower Torx screws. Remove the
airbox 10mm retaining bolt.

Unclip the retaining clips between the air filter housing and the MAF.

Unscrew the MAF hose clamp.

Lift the right side (Front facing rear) of the airbox to remove it and the MAF housing. Set both aside. Be
careful with the MAF and it's connector/wiring.

Next, remove the ABS Module electrical connector. I used a screwdriver to slide the plastic retaining clip to
the right. It is a plastic retaining clip, so do be careful not to break it. It slides over about 1 1/4 inches or so.
Once the clip is fully to the right, lift the electrical connector straight up to remove.

Remove the ABS module itself. There are six T20 Torx screws holding it in place. I used a T20 torx bit in a
1/4" socket and a 6" extension. 3" extension shown.

Once all six screws are removed, pull the ABS module straight out towards the passenger side headlight.

Here's a shot of the old and new modules side by side. The new module is on the right. No visible damage on
the old module.

There is a gasket attached to the new unit. Carefully place the new module over the control actuators.
Loosely replace six new T20 Torx screws included with the new module. Tighten snug tight then a little more
to seat the gasket.

Reattach the electrical connector. Position the electrical connector, lightly press down while pressing the
retaining clip in to the left.

Reassemble the Air Filter box and MAF.

That's it. 26 minutes. (Six min for pictures)

to get the module coded to your car.

You're now ready to head to an Indy or cooperating dealer

I wonder if any heat shielding to protect the ABS module would prolong its service life?...
Whether you rebuild your failing unit or get a new one, in the end, they are easy to replace.

Hyundai ABS - Auto Repair Codes

Scan Tool for Codes and Live Data for your Hyundai ABS from $699 USD
The information below may apply to Hyundai Lantra and many other models
Connector Diagram

Note: You may need the Rennacs UniPlug and UniPlug specific software.
Click here for more info.
Auto Repair Manual - How to read codes (No Special Tools Needed)
Note:If the ABS warning light does not flash it means there are no fault codes.
1 Ground terminal 15 as shown in the diagram to your left.
2 Turn ignition ON, the ABS warning light should be flashing.
3 Read codes as described in the Code Format Description below.
4 Press the continue button to enter the code numbers and get the code description.
Tip:You may use pins 4 and 5 as ground for this connector.
Code Format Diagram

Code Format Description

 Code sequence begins with a 2 second flash.

Each following code is made up of two series of flashes.
The long flashes indicate the 'tens' digits.
The short flashes indicate the 'ones' digits.
A long pause separates each code sequence.
Once every code has been displayed the code sequence repeats.
Code Format Diagram shows code No. 12.
To move to the next screen click on the Continue button

Continue >
Note on Example Model(s): Hyundai Lantra
The example model(s) shown, Hyundai Lantra for this auto repair service are only an indication to help you.
There may be many other models that apply to this connector. Click above link to see the complete vehicle
.coverage list

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