Workshop Manual

C
2(0)

AQ205, 430, 431, 432, 434

Workshop manual
AQ205, 430, 431, 432, 434

Contents
Page
Safety Precautions ................................................................................................ 2
General information ............................................................................................... 5
Repair instructions ................................................................................................ 6
Presentation .......................................................................................................... 8
Cooling system ..................................................................................................... 9
Lubricating system .............................................................................................. 11
Fault tracing, engine ............................................................................................ 12
Chapter 1 Overhaul data ................................................................................. 13
Chapter 2 Special tools ................................................................................... 19
Chapter 3 Wiring diagrams .............................................................................. 23
Chapter 4 Cylinder head with related parts ..................................................... 27
4A Fault tracing and repair procedures, fuel system ........................... 29
4B Removing the related parts ............................................................. 63
4C Overhauling the cooling system ..................................................... 65
4D Overhauling the valve system ........................................................ 67
4E Assembling the cylinder head ......................................................... 73
4F Installing the related parts ............................................................... 75
Chapter 5 Engine block with related parts ....................................................... 77
5A Removing the related parts ............................................................. 79
5B Overhauling the crankshaft assembly ............................................ 81
5C Overhauling the camshaft ............................................................... 91
5D Overhauling the balance shaft ........................................................ 97
5E Fault-tracing and remedial action, ignition system .......................... 99
5F Installation of related parts ............................................................ 111

Safety Precautions

Introduction
This Workshop Manual contains technical data,
descriptions and repair instructions for Volvo Penta
products or product versions contained in the contents list. Ensure that the correct workshop literature
is being used.
Read the safety information and the Workshop
Manual General Information and Repair Instructions carefully before starting work.

Important
In this book and on the engine you will find the following special warning symbols.
WARNING! If these instructions are not followed there is a danger of personal injury,
extensive damage to the product or serious
mechanical malfunction.
IMPORTANT! Used to draw your attention to
something that can cause damage, product
malfunction or damage to property.
NOTE! Used to draw your attention to important information that will facilitate work or operations.
Below is a summary of the risks and safety precautions you should always observe or carry out when
operating or servicing the engine.
Immobilize the engine by turning off the power supply
to the engine at the main switch (switches) and lock it
(them) in the OFF position before starting work. Set up
a warning notice at the engine control point or helm.
Generally, all servicing should be carried out with the
engine switched off. Some work (carrying out certain
adjustments for example) requires the engine to be
running. Approaching a running engine is dangerous.
Loose clothing or long hair can fasten in rotating parts
and cause serious personal injury.
If working in proximity to a running engine, careless
movements or a dropped tool can result in personal
injury. Avoid burns. Take precautions to avoid hot surfaces (exhausts, turbochargers, charge air pipes and
starter elements etc.) and liquids in supply lines and
hoses when the engine is running or has been turned
off immediately prior to starting work on it. Reinstall all
protective parts removed during service operations
before starting the engine.
Check that the warning or information decals on the
product are always clearly visible. Replace decals
that have been damaged or painted over.

Engine with turbocharger: Never start the engine

without installing the air cleaner (ACL). The rotating
compressor in the Turbo can cause serious personal
injury. Foreign objects entering the intake ducts can
also cause mechanical damage.
Never use start spray or similar to start the engine.
The starter element may cause an explosion in the
inlet manifold. Danger of personal injury.
Avoid opening the filler cap for engine coolant system
(freshwater cooled engines) when the engine is still
hot. Steam or hot coolant can spray out. Open the
coolant filler cap carefully and slowly to release pressure before removing the cap completely. Take great
care if a cock, plug or engine coolant line must be removed from a hot engine. It is difficult to anticipate in
which direction steam or hot coolant can spray out.
Hot oil can cause burns. Avoid skin contact with hot
oil. Ensure that the lubrication system is not under
pressure before commencing work on it. Never start
or operate the engine with the oil filler cap removed,
otherwise oil could be ejected.
Stop the engine and close the sea cock before carrying out operations on the engine cooling system.
Only start the engine in a well-ventilated area. If operating the engine in an enclosed space, ensure that
exhaust gases and crankcase ventilation emissions
are ventilated out of the working area.

Always use protective goggles where there is a

danger of pieces of metal, sparks from grinding,
acid or other chemicals being thrown into your
eyes. Your eyes are very sensitive, injury can lead
to loss of sight!
Avoid skin contact with oil. Long-term or repeated
contact with oil can remove the natural oils from
your skin. The result can be irritation, dry skin, eczema and other skin problems. Used oil is more dangerous to health than new oil. Use protective gloves
and avoid using oil-soaked clothes and rags. Wash
regularly, especially before meals. Use the correct
barrier cream to prevent dry skin and to make
cleaning your skin easier.

Never allow a naked flame or electric sparks near

the batteries. Never smoke in proximity to the batteries. The batteries give off hydrogen gas during
charging which when mixed with air can form an explosive gas oxyhydrogen. This gas is easily ignited and highly volatile. Incorrect connection of the
battery can cause a spark which is sufficient to
cause an explosion with resulting damage. Do not
disturb battery connections when starting the engine (spark risk) and do not lean over batteries.
Never mix up the positive and negative battery terminals when installing. Incorrect installation can result in serious damage to electrical equipment. Refer to wiring diagrams.

Most chemicals used in products (engine and transmission oils, glycol, petrol and diesel oil) and workshop chemicals (solvents and paints) are hazardous to health Read the instructions on the product
packaging carefully! Always follow safety instructions (using breathing apparatus, protective goggles and gloves for example). Ensure that other personnel are not unwittingly exposed to hazardous
substances (by breathing them in for example). Ensure that ventilation is good. Handle used and
excess chemicals according to instructions.

Always use protective goggles when charging and

handling batteries. The battery electrolyte contains
extremely corrosive sulfuric acid. If this comes into
contact with the skin, wash immediately with soap
and plenty of water. If battery acid comes into contact with the eyes, immediately flush with copious
amounts of water and obtain medical assistance.

Be extremely careful when tracing leaks in the fuel

system and testing fuel injection nozzles. Use protective goggles! The jet ejected from a fuel injection
nozzle is under very high pressure, it can penetrate
body tissue and cause serious injury There is a
danger of blood poisoning.

Clutch adjustments must be carried out with the engine turned off.

Turn off the engine and turn off power at main

switch(es) before carrying out work on the electrical
system.

All fuels and many chemicals are inflammable. Ensure that a naked flame or sparks cannot ignite fuel
or chemicals. Combined with air in certain ratios,
petrol, some solvents and hydrogen from batteries
are easily inflammable and explosive. Smoking is
prohibited! Ensure that ventilation is good and that
the necessary safety precautions have been taken
before carrying out welding or grinding work. Always have a fire extinguisher to hand in the workplace.
Store oil and fuel-soaked rags and fuel and oil filters safely. In certain conditions oil-soaked rags can
spontaneously ignite. Used fuel and oil filters are
environmentally dangerous waste and must be deposited at an approved site for destruction together
with used lubricating oil, contaminated fuel, paint
remnants, solvent, degreasing agents and waste
from washing parts.

Use the lifting eyes mounted on the engine/reverse

gear when lifting the drive unit.
Always check that lifting equipment is in good condition and has sufficient load capacity to lift the engine (engine weight including reverse gear and any
extra equipment installed).
To ensure safe handling and to avoid damaging engine components on top of the engine, use a lifting
beam to raise the engine. All chains and cables
should run parallel to each other and as perpendicular as possible in relation to the top of the engine.
If extra equipment is installed on the engine altering
its center of gravity, a special lifting device is required to achieve the correct balance for safe handling.
Never carry out work on an engine suspended on a
hoist.
Never remove heavy components alone, even
where secure lifting equipment such as secured
blocks are being used. Even where lifting equipment is being used it is best to carry out the work
with two people; one to operate the lifting equipment and the other to ensure that components are
not trapped and damaged when being lifted.
When working on-board ensure that there is sufficient space to remove components without danger
of injury or damage.

Components in the electrical system, ignition system (gasoline engines) and fuel system on Volvo
Penta products are designed and constructed to
minimize the risk of fire and explosion. The engine
must not be run in areas where there are explosive
materials.
Always use fuels recommended by Volvo Penta.
Refer to the Instruction Book. The use of lower quality fuels can damage the engine. On a diesel engine poor quality fuel can cause the control rod to
seize and the engine to overrev with the resulting
risk of damage to the engine and personal injury.
Poor fuel quality can also lead to higher maintenance costs.
Observe the following rules when cleaning with
high-pressure water jets. Never direct the water jet
at seals, rubber hoses or electrical components.
Never use a high pressure jet when washing the
engine.

General information
About the workshop manual

Replacement parts

This workshop manual contains technical specification, descriptions and instructions for the standard
versions of AQ205A, 430A, 430B, 431A, 431B, 432A
and 434A. The product designation and number should
be given in all correspondence about the product.
This Workshop Manual shows the work procedures for
a 431A. Please note that the illustrations used do not
always fully correspond with other engines. The repair
methods are identical on other versions unless otherwise stated. Important differences are described separately.

Replacement parts for electrical and fuel systems are

subject to statutory requirements (US Coast Guard
Safety Regulations for example). Volvo Penta Genuine
parts meet these requirements. Any type of damage
which results from the use of non-original Volvo Penta
replacement parts for the product will not be covered
under any warranty provided by Volvo Penta.

NOTE! The engine 431A was introducted and for one

year sold under the designation AQ205 A. As AQ205A
and 431A are identical products, the later designation
been used in this workshop manual.
This Workshop Manual has been developed primarily
for Volvo Penta service workshops and qualified
personnel. Persons using this book are assumed to
have a grounding in marine drive systems and be
able to carry out related mechanical and electrical
work.
Volvo Penta is continuously developing their products. We therefore reserve the right to make
changes. All the information contained in this book is
based on product data available at the time of going
to print. Any essential changes or modifications
introduced into production or updated or revised
service methods introduced after the date of publication will be provided in the form of Service Bulletins.

Repair instructions
The working methods described in the Service Manual
apply to work carried out in a workshop. The engine
has been removed from the boat and is installed in an
engine fixture. Unless otherwise stated reconditioning
work which can be carried out with the engine in place
follows the same working method.
Warning symbols occurring in the Workshop Manual
(for their meaning see Safety information)
WARNING!
IMPORTANT!
NOTE!
are not in any way comprehensive since it is impossible to predict every circumstance under which service
work or repairs may be carried out. For this reason we
can only highlight the risks that can arise when work
is carried out incorrectly in a well-equipped workshop
using working methods and tools developed by us.
All procedures for which there are Volvo Penta special
tools in this Workshop Manual are carried out using
these. Special tools are developed to rationalize
working methods and make procedures as safe as
possible. It is therefore the responsibility of any
person using tools or working methods other than the
ones recommended by us to ensure that there is no
danger of injury, damage or malfunction resulting from
these.
In some cases there may be special safety precautions and instructions for the use of tools and chemicals contained in this Workshop Manual. These
special instructions should always be followed if
there are no separate instructions in the Workshop
Manual.
Certain elementary precautions and common sense
can prevent most risks arising. A clean workplace
and engine eliminates much of the danger of injury
and malfunction.
It is of the greatest importance that no dirt or foreign
particles get into the fuel system, lubrication system, intake system, turbocharger, bearings and
seals when they are being worked on. The result can
be malfunction or a shorter operational life.

Our joint responsibility

Each engine consists of many connected systems and
components. If a component deviates from its technical
specification the environmental impact of an otherwise
good engine may be increased significantly. It is therefore vital that wear tolerances are maintained, that
systems that can be adjusted are adjusted properly and
that Volvo Penta Genuine Parts as used. The engine
Maintenance Schedule must be followed.
Some systems, such as the components in the fuel
system, require special expertise and special testing
equipment for service and maintenance. Some components are sealed at the factory for environmental
reasons. No work should be carried out on sealed
components except by authorized personnel.
Bear in mind that most chemicals used on boats are
harmful to the environment if used incorrectly. Volvo
Penta recommends the use of biodegradable
degreasing agents for cleaning engine components,
unless otherwise stated in a workshop manual. Take
special care when working on-board, that oil and
waste is taken for destruction and is not accidentally
pumped into the environment with bilge water.

Tightening torques
Tightening torques for vital joints that must be tightened with a torque wrench are listed in workshop
manual Technical Data: Tightening Torques and are
contained in work descriptions in this Manual. All
torques apply for cleaned threads, screw heads and
mating surfaces. Torques apply for lightly oiled or dry
threads. If lubricants, locking fluid or sealing compound are required for a screwed joint this information
will be contained in the work description and in Tightening Torques Where no tightening torque is stated for
a joint use the general tightening torques according to
the tables below. The tightening torques stated are a
guide and the joint does not have to be tightened using
a torque wrench.
Dimension
M5
M6
M8
M10
M12
M14

Tightening Torques
Nm
6
10
25
50
80
140

lbf.ft
4.4
7.4
18.4
36.9
59.0
103.3

Tightening torques-protractor
(angle) tightening
Tightening using both a torque setting
and a protractor angle requires that
first the recommended torque is
applied using a torque wrench and
then the recommended angle is added
according to the protractor scale.
Example: a 90 protractor tightening
means that the joint is tightened a
further 1/4 turn in one operation after
the stated tightening torque has been
applied.

Locknuts
Do not re-use lock nuts that have been removed
during dismantling as they have reduced service life
when re-used use new nuts when assembling or
reinstalling. For lock nuts with a plastic insert such
as Nylock the tightening torque stated in the table
is reduced if the Nylock nut has the same head
height as a standard hexagonal nut without plastic
insert. Reduce the tightening torque by 25% for bolt
size 8 mm or larger. Where Nylock nuts are higher,
or of the same height as a standard hexagonal nut,
the tightening torques given in the table apply.

Tolerance classes
Screws and nuts are divided into different strength
classes, the class is indicated by the number on the
bolt head. A high number indicates stronger material,
for example a bolt marked 10-9 indicates a higher
tolerance than one marked 8-8. It is therefore important that bolts removed during the disassembly of a
bolted joint must be reinstalled in their original
position when assembling the joint. If a bolt must be
replaced check in the replacement parts catalogue
to make sure the correct bolt is used.

Sealants
A number of sealants and locking liquids are used on
the engines. The agents have varying properties and
are used for different types of jointing strengths,
operating temperature ranges, resistance to oil and
other chemicals and for the different materials and gap
sizes in the engines.
To ensure service work is correctly carried out it is
important that the correct sealant and locking fluid
type is used on the joint where the agents are required.
In this Volvo Penta Service Manual the user will find
that each section where these agents are applied in
production states which type was used on the engine.
During service operations use the same agent or an
alternative from a different manufacturer.
Make sure that mating surfaces are dry and free from
oil, grease, paint and anti-corrosion agent before
applying sealant or locking fluid. Always follow the
manufacturers instructions for use regarding; temperature range, curing time and any other instructions for the
product.
Two different basic types of agent are used on the
engine and these are:
RTV agent (Room temperature vulcanizing). Use for
gaskets, sealing gasket joints or coating gaskets. RTV
agent is clearly visible when a component has been
dismantled; old RTV must be removed before the joint
is resealed.
The following RTV agents are mentioned in the Service Manual: Loctite 574, Volvo Penta 840879-1,
Permatex No. 3, Volvo Penta P/N 1161099-5,
Permatex No. 77. Old sealant can be removed using
methylated spirits in all cases.
Anaerobic agents. These agents cure in an absence of
air. They are used when two solid parts, for example
cast components, are installed face-to-face without a
gasket. They are also commonly used to secure
plugs, threads in stud bolts, cocks, oil pressure
switches and so on. The cured material is glass-like
and it is therefore colored to make it visible. Cured
anaerobic agents are extremely resistant to solvents
and the old agent cannot be removed. When reinstalling the part is carefully degreased and then new
sealant is applied.
The following anaerobic agents are mentioned in the
Service Manual: Loctite 572 (white), Loctite 241
(blue).
NOTE! Loctite is the registered trademark of Loctite Corporation, Permatex is the registered trademark of the Permatex
Corporation.

Presentation

The serial number plate is located at the rear of the engine

block on the port side (as seen from the rear). Engines manufactured before March 1988 have the plate located on the starboard side.
The engine is a 6-cylinder, sea water cooled gasoline engine.
The thermostatically controlled cooling system is supplied with
sea water from a crankshaft drive impeller pump. A separate
circulation pump forces cooling water through the engine block
to maintain an even operating temperature. The cooling water
also circulates through the exhaust system to keep it cool. The
430A, 431 A (late models) and the 430B, 431B, 432A, 434A
have a modified cooling system with a different cooling water
flow through the thermostat housing and the exhaust risers.
The 430, 431, 432 and 434 have a displacement of 4293 cm3
(262 cu.in.).
The 400-engines use a breakerless electronic ignition system.

Engine cooling system

Cooling system up to serial no. 4100130994

Engine cooling system

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Inlet
Impeller pump
Thermostat housing
Circulation pump
Outlet

Cooling channels in the thermostat housing, thermostat

closed.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Cooling channels in the thermostat housing,

thermostat open.

Cooling water from the impeller pump

By-pass to the outlet chamber
Outlet to exhaust manifold
Cooling water from the engine block
Outlet to the circulation pump

Cooling system, serial numbers from 4100130995 and upwards

Cooling system
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Cooling water passages in the thermostat housing,

thermostat closed.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

10

Inlet
Impeller pump
Thermostat housing
Circulation pump
Outlet

Cooling water passages in the thermostat housing,

thermostat open.

Cooling water from the impeller pump

Outlet to the exhaust risers
Outlet to the exhaust pipe
Cooling water from the engine block
Outlet to the circulation pump

Engine lubricating system

Lubricating system, from the strainer to lubrication points

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Oil strainer
Oil pump with relief valve
Oil filter
Hydraulic valve lifters
Oil gallery
Drive for oil pump

11

Fault tracing procedure, engine

Engine
does not
start

Engine
stops

Engine
does not
reach correct operating r/min at
full throttle,
or knocks

Engine
runs unevenly or vibrates abnormally

Engine gets
abnormally
hot

Main switch not switched ON, discharged

battery, open circuit in electrical cables,
main fuse or 8A fuse in instrument panel
blown.

X
X

X
X

X
X

Empty fuel tank, closed fuel cock, clogged

fuel filter.

X
X

Water or impurities in the fuel

Faulty spark plugs
Moisture in the distributor or on the ignition cables

X
X

Faulty electronics unit

Idle speed not adjusted correctly

X
X

Faulty rev counter

Growth on boat hull and on outboard drive

Boat loaded abnormally

Damaged propeller

12

Cause

Clogged cooling water intake or cooling

channels. Faulty impeller or thermostat.
Incorrect ignition setting (too late)

Wrong fuel grade in relation to ignition setting.

Wrong propeller diameter or wrong propeller pitch

430B, 431B, 432A, 434A.

Faulty fuel pump.
Alternator belts or other alternator faults.

Chapter 1 Overhaul data

Technical data*
(Measurements are given in mm unless otherwise specified)
General
Type designation ................................................................................
Method of operation ...........................................................................
Max. output .........................................................................................
Speed range for full load ...................................................................
Max. cruising speed ...........................................................................
Idling speed ........................................................................................
Compression ratio .............................................................................
Compression pressure at engine starting speed .............................
Engine type ........................................................................................
Number of cylinders ...........................................................................
Bore ....................................................................................................
Stroke ..................................................................................................
Swept volume .....................................................................................
Weight with drive, without oil (DP/SP) ...............................................

430A/431 A, 430B/431 B, 432A/434A

4-stroke
See the sales literature
4 100 4 500 r/min (430A/B)
4 400 4 800 r/min (431A/B, 432A, 434A)
300 - 500 r/min lower than the max. speed attained
750 r/min
9.3:1
10 11 kp/cm2
90 V engine
6
101.6 (3.962")
88.4 (3.448")
4.293 dm3 (261.972 cu.in.)
355/351 kg (781/772.2 lb)

Cylinder block
Material ............................................................................................... Cast iron
Bore, standard .................................................................................... 101.58 101.66 (3.961 3.964")
Bore, oversize .................................................................................... 102.4 (3.994")
Max. cylinder out-of-roundness ......................................................... 0.05 (0.002")
The cylinder barrels should be rebored when
the wear exceeds ............................................................................... 0.13 mm (0.005")
(if the engine oil consumption is abnormal)
Max. cylinder conicity ......................................................................... 0.025 (0.001")

Pistons
Material ...............................................................................................
Piston clearance ................................................................................

Aluminium
0.069 (0.003")

Pistons, standard ...............................................................................

101.595 101.608 (3.9998 4.0003"1)

101.608 101.620 (4.0003 4.0008")
102.4 (4.03")

Pistons, oversize ................................................................................

Piston rings
Piston ring gap, measured at the opening of the ring
compression ring, upper ....................................................................
compression ring, lower ....................................................................
Piston ring gap, oil ring ......................................................................
Oversize, piston rings ........................................................................

0.25
0.25
0.38
0.76

0.76 (0.010 0.030")

0.89 (0.010 0.035")
1.65 (0.015 0.064")
(0.030")

* For AQ205A, see technical data for 431A.

13

430A/431 A, 430B/431 B, 432A/434A

Compression rings
Upper ring, chromium-plated, marking up
Number on each piston .....................................................................
Height .................................................................................................
Piston ring clearance in slot
upper ring ........................................................................................
lower ring ........................................................................................

2
1.98 (0.077")
0.03 0.11 (0.001 0.004")
0.03 0.11 (0.001 0.004")

Oil rings
Number on each piston .....................................................................
Height .................................................................................................
Piston ring clearance in slot ..............................................................

1
4.74 (0.185")
0.05 0.20 (0.002 0.008")

Piston pins
Forced fit
Fit in the connecting rod, negative clearance ...................................
Diameter, standard .............................................................................
Max. piston pin clearance in piston ...................................................

0.02 0.04 (0.0008 0.0016")

23.50 23.55 (0.917 0.918")
0.025 (0.001")

Crankshaft
Axial crankshaft clearance .................................................................

0.05 0.15 (0.002 0.006")

Main bearings
Main bearing journals, journal no. 1 (from the front) ............
Diameter, standard ....................................................................

1
2 and 3
62.179 62.212
62.181 62.204
(2.425 2.427")
(2.425 2.426")
Bearing clearance ....................................................................
0.025 0.038
0.025 0.064
(0.0010 0.0015") (0.0010 0.0024")

4
62.176 62.199
(2.425 2.426")
0.064 0.089
(0.0024 0.0035")

430A/431 A, 430B/431 B, 432A/434A

Out-of-roundness, max. .....................................................................
Conicity, max. .....................................................................................

0.025 (0.0010")
0.025 (0.0010")

Main bearing shells

1st undersize ......................................................................................
2nd undersize ....................................................................................

0.254 (0.010")
0.508 (0.020")

Big end bearings

Diameter, standard .............................................................................
Big end bearing clearance ................................................................
Out-of-roundness, max. .....................................................................
Conicity, max ......................................................................................

57.11 57.14 (2.227 2.228")

0.033 0.076 (0.001 0.003")
0.025 (0.0010")
0.025 (0.0010")

Big end bearing shells

1st undersize ......................................................................................
2nd undersize ....................................................................................

0.254 (0.010")
0.508 (0.020")

Connecting rods
Axial clearance at crankshaft ............................................................

14

0.15 0.36 (0.006 0.014")

430A/431 A, 430B/431 B, 432A/434A

Camshaft
Number of bearings ...........................................................................
Bearing journal, diameter ..................................................................
Bearing journal, max. out-of-roundness ............................................
Camshafts straightness, max. cast ....................................................
Axial clearance ...................................................................................
Cam lift
intake ..................................................................................................
exhaust ...............................................................................................
Lift tolerance .......................................................................................

4
47.45 47.48 (1.850 1.852")
0.025 (0.0010")
0.051 (0.0020")
0.10 0.30 (0.004 0.012")
6.83 (0.267")
6.94 (0.271")
0.05 ( 0.002")

Valves
Inlet
Disk diameter .....................................................................................
Min. disk edge ....................................................................................
Stem diameter ....................................................................................
Oversize, 0.015" .................................................................................
Oversize, 0.030" .................................................................................
Valve seat angle .................................................................................
Cylinder head seat angle ..................................................................
Width of seat in cylinder head ...........................................................

49.149 49.403 (1.917 1.927")

0.8 (0.031")
8.65 8.68 (0.337 0.339")
9.05 9.07 (0.353 0.354")
9.43 9.45 (0.368 0.369")
45
46
0.80 1.60 (0.031 0.062")

Exhaust
Disk diameter .....................................................................................
Min. disk edge ....................................................................................
Stem diameter ....................................................................................
Oversize, 0.015 ..................................................................................
Oversize, 0.030 ..................................................................................
Valve seat angle .................................................................................
Cylinder head seat angle ..................................................................
Width of seat in cylinder head ...........................................................

37.97 38.23 (1.481 1.491")

0.8 (0.031")
8.63 8.68 (0.337 0.339")
8.75 8.76 (0.341 0.342")
9.05 9.07 (0.353 0.354")
45
46
1.60 2.40 (0.062 0.093")

Valve guides
Clearance, valve stem guide, inlet valve .......................................
Clearance, valve stem guide, exhaust valve .................................

0.025 0.094 (0.0010 0.0040")

0.025 0.120 (0.0010 0.0047")

Valve springs inlet, exhaust

Length unloaded ................................................................................
Length at a load of 334 370 N (34.0 38.0 kp) .............................
Length at a load of 853 905 N (87.0 92.5 kp) .............................

51.6 (2.012")
44.0 (1.716")
31.7 (1.236")

Lubrication system
Oil quality ............................................................................................
Viscosity .............................................................................................
Oil capacity excl. oil filter ....................................................................
Oil capacity incl. oil filter ....................................................................
Oil pressure at idling speed, hot engine ...........................................
Oil pressure at full speed, hot engine ...............................................

Service SG
SAE 20W/50 (15W/50)
3.8 l (1.016 US gall.)
4.2 l (1.123 US gall.)
0.7 kp/cm2
2.50 3.16 kp/cm2

15

430A/431A

430B/431 B

432A/434A

Fuel system
Fuel quality, min. ...........................................

91 octane (RON)

Fuel pump
Mechanical pump,
supply pressure at 1 000 r/min .....................
Electrical pump,
supply pressure (min.) at 12 Volts ................

0.32 0.46 kp/cm2

0.07 kp/cm2

0.07 kp/cm2

Electrical system
430A/430B, 431A/431B, 432A/434A
Battery
Ground connection .......................................
Voltage ..........................................................
Capacity ........................................................
Battery electrolyte specific gravity
fully charged battery ..................................
battery to be recharged at .........................

1.275 1.285 g/cm3

1.230 g/cm3

Alternator
Type ...............................................................
Max. output ....................................................

Alternating current
700 W (50 A)

Starter motor
Starter motor output ......................................

0.96 kW (1.3 hp)

Negative
12 Volts
60 Ah (min.)

Ignition system
430A/430B

431A/431B
432A/434A
Volvo Penta part no. 876046-4
AC MR43T or equivalent
0.9 (0.035")
1-6-5-4-3-2

Spark plugs ...................................................

Spark plug gap ..............................................
Firing order ....................................................
Stroboscope setting
3 300 r/min .................................................
2 500 r/min .................................................
basic setting ...............................................
Distributor, air gap .........................................

21 BTDC
8 BTDC/1800 r/min

16 BTDC
8 BTDC/750 r/min

0 BTDC/750 r/min

0.20-0.25 (0.008-0.010") 0.20-0.25 (0.008-0.010")

Cooling system (sea water cooled)

430A/430B, 431A/431B, 432A/434A
Thermostat
starts to open at .........................................
fully open at ................................................

62C (144F)
72C (162F)

Fresh water cooling system (accessoire)

Thermostat
starts to open at .........................................
fully open at ................................................

16

68C (155F)
83C (182F)

Tightening torques
Nm

kpm

lbf. ft.

Cylinder head bolts, 1st tightening ...........................

2nd tightening ...........................................................
Main bearing bolts ....................................................
Big-end bearing caps ...............................................
Flywheel bolts ...........................................................
Flywheel housing bolts .............................................
Center bolt, crankshaft, front .....................................
Bolts for camshaft gear .............................................
Intake manifold bolts .................................................
Exhaust manifold bolts ..............................................
Riser, bolts .................................................................
Spark plugs ...............................................................
Bolts for oil pump ......................................................
Oil pan bolts ..............................................................
Oil pan nuts ...............................................................
Timing gear casing bolts ...........................................
Valve cover bolts .......................................................
Oil drain plug .............................................................
Circulation pump bolts (coolant) ..............................
Distributor bracket bolts (430A/B, 431A/B) ..............
Distributor bracket bolts (432A/434A) ......................
Carburetor bolts ........................................................
Retainer, push rod guides ........................................
Rocker arm screws (430B, 431B, 432A, 434A) .......
Balance shaft, drive (432A, 434A) ............................

50
90
108
61
82
41
82
24
41
35
25
20
90
11
22
14
6
27
41
46
27
13
16
47
20

5
9
11
6.2
8.2
4.1
8.2
2.4
4.1
3.5
2.5
2
9
1.1
2.2
1.4
.6
2.7
4.1
4.6
2.7
1.3
1.6
4.7
2.0

36
66
80
45
60
30
60
17.5
30
26
18.5
14.5
66
8
16
10.3
4.5
19.8
30
34
20
9.5
11.8
34.8
14.8

Balance shaft, bearing retainer (432A, 434A) .........

14

1.4

10.4

Lubrication
lock fluid
Permatex
Molykote
oil
oil
oil
oil
oil
oil
Permatex
Permatex
Dry
oil
oil
oil
oil
oil
oil
Permatex
oil
oil
oil
oil
oil
VP 1161053-2 or
Locktite 242
VP 1161053-2 or
Locktite 242

17

18

Chapter 2 Special tools

9986052

Valve spring compressor

884359-1

Drift for fitting seal in flywheel housing

884944-0

Tool for guiding the connecting rod and

protection for connecting rod bolt

884528-1

Puller for crankshaft gear

884529-9

Drift for fitting timing gear casing seal

884530-7

Drift for fitting crankshaft drive

884943-2

Tool for fitting oil strainer

884608-1

Tool for removing and fitting the front vibration

damper

884682-6

Fixture and drift for removing and fitting

wrist pin

Drift for fitting primary shaft in flywheel housing

884596-8

884599-2

Drift for fitting sealing ring in flywheel housing

19

884609-9

Locating pin for removing and fitting exhaust

manifold

884613-1

Drift for choke lever

884614-9

884615-6

Measuring tool for float level

884616-4

T-measure, inch scale

884617-2

Angle scale for choke valve

884618-0

Vacuum pump

884619-8

Holder for choke lever

884620-6

Support for carburetor

884621-4

Adjuster key

884991-1

20

Break tool for carburetor linkage

Reamer kit for valve guide, inlet and exhaust

884627-1

Puller for rocker arm bolt

884628-9

Tool for removing and fitting camshaft

bearings

884629-7

Tool for fitting rocker arm bolt

884630-5

Tool for cleaning valve guide

884632-1

Reamer for rocker arm bolt, 0.013 in oversize

884691-7

Tool for venting screw (when setting fuel/air

mixture)

885050-5

Fixture for support

884838-4

Drift for fitting sealing ring in flywheel housing

885163-6

Connector for the basic ignition timing

432A, 434A

9998113-6

Drift for removing and fitting the bearing housing to the balance shaft

21

22

Chapter 3: Wiring Diagram

Wiring Diagram 430A, 431A

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.

Oil pressure gauge

Temp gauge
Voltmeter
Tachometer
Instrument lights
Key switch
Switch, instrument lights
Fuse 8 Amp

AWG
16
13
10
8

mm2
1.5
2.5
6.0
10.0

17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.

Fuse 8 Amp
Alternator
Starter motor
Automatic choke
Automatic fuse 40 Amp
Main switch (optional)
Battery (optional)
Temp sender

Color
SB
=
PU =
LBN =
R
=
GR =

black
purpur
light brown
red
grey

Oil pressure sender

Distributor
Ignition coil
Relay
Resistor
Fuel gauge (alternative)
Connector adapter

LBL = light blue

R/Y = red/yellow
BN = brown
W
= white

23

Wiring diagram, 430B, 431B

Cable colors
SB = Black
PU = Purpur
LBN = Light Brown
R
= Red
GR = Grey
LBL = Light Blue
R/Y = Red/Yellow
BN = Brown
W
= White
Y
= Yellow
LR = Light Red
Cable areas
AWG
mm2
16
1.5
13
2.5
10
6.0
8
10.0

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.

Tachometer
Oil pressure gauge
Temperature gauge
Voltmeter
Switch, instrument illumination
Instrument illumination
Key circuit breaker
8A fuse, ignition
8A fuse, starter
Connector, neutral position switch
Connector, safety contact
Connector, instrument illumination (optional)
Connector, outlet, max. 20A
Connector, outlet, max. 5A in total (main panel +
flybridge panel)
Connectors, engine/instrumentation*
Extension cabling
Alternator
Starter motor
Automatic choke
40A automatic fuse
Main power switch (optional)

22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.

Battery
Temperature sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Distributor
Ignition coil
Resistor
Relay
Relay
Fuel pump
Connector
Insulator (some engines only)

* NOTE! The terminals in the engines round connector and the instrument panels rectangular connector are numbered differently. The
numbers shown in this wiring diagram show the number of pins in the connector, not the electrical connection between the connectors.
The connectors are coupled electrically in accordance with the wire colors, i.e. with the pin opposite in the diagram.

24

Wiring diagram, 432A, 434A

Cable colors
SB = Black
PU = Purpur
LBN = Light Brown
R
= Red
GR = Grey
LBL = Light Blue
R/Y = Red/Yellow
BN = Brown
W
= White
Y
= Yellow
LR = Light Red
Cable areas
AWG
mm2
16
1.5
13
2.5
10
6.0
8
10.0
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.

Tachometer
Oil pressure gauge
Temperature gauge
Voltmeter
Switch, instrument illumination
Instrument illumination
Key circuit breaker
8A fuse, ignition
8A fuse, starter
Connector, neutral position switch
Connector, safety contact
Connector, instrument illumination (optional)
Connector, outlet, max. 20A
Connector, outlet, max. 5A in total
(main panel + flybridge panel)
Connectors, engine/instrumentation*
Extension cabling
Alternator
Starter motor
Automatic choke
40A automatic fuse
Main power switch (optional)
Battery

23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.

Temperature sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Distributor
Ignition coil
Resistor
Relay
Relay
Fuel pump
Connector

* NOTE! The terminals in the engines round connector and the instrument panels rectangular connector are numbered differently. The
numbers shown in this wiring diagram show the number of pins in the connector, not the electrical connection between the connectors.
The connectors are coupled electrically in accordance with the wire colors, i.e. with the pin opposite in the diagram.

25

26

Chapter 4 Cylinder Head

This chapter covers the cylinder head and related parts as follows:

Procedure

Page

4A Fault-tracing and repair, fuel system ............................................................. 29

4B Removing related parts .................................................................................. 63
4C Overhauling the cooling system .................................................................... 65
4D Overhauling the valve system ....................................................................... 67
4E Assembling the cylinder head ........................................................................ 73
4F Installing the related parts .............................................................................. 75

Quick guide:
Replacing the thermostat: Follow points 1-3, page 65.
Overhauling the sea water pump: Follow points 7-8, page 66.

27

28

Chapter 4A Cylinder Head

Fault-tracing and repair procedures, fuel
system

IMPORTANT! Remember the danger of fire. Always have a fire extinguisher nearby! Switch off
the ignition when working with the fuel system. All
checks and repairs must be done with the engine
stopped! Run the engine room blower for 2 to 3
minutes before starting work.

The fault-tracing procedure only covers problems in the

carburetor and fuel system.

Closed fuel cock

Clogged fuel filter

Faulty fuel pump

Blocked fuel line

Carburetor flooding
X

Irregualr running

Poor fuel economy

Suddenly stops

Loss of power during normal

acceleration
Loss of power during fast
acceleration or at high speed

Hesitates when accelerating

Runs on, post ignition

Poor idling (too fast or slow)

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Fill fuel tank
Open the fuel cock

X
X
X

Not enough fuel in the carburetor

IMPORTANT! Be aware of the fire hazard. Always have

a fire extinguisher near at hand.

Empty fuel tank

Choke not functioning correctly

Difficult starting

Starts but stops again

Will not start

CAUSE

SYMPTOM

The symptoms described can also be caused by malfunction of the ignition or electrical system, a dirty hull, damaged propeller or drive, incorrect trim angle or a worn engine. Check these possible causes of the fault before any
work is started on the carburetor.

1)

Replace the pump

Blow clean all fuel lines

2)

X
X

3)
X

4)
5) (Excl. Holley 2010.)

Corrective Action
1. Replace or clean the fuel filters. The engine has 2
fuel filters: one large main filter fitted at the fuel pump
and a filter fitted in the carburetor at the fuel inlet. The
main filter must be replaced, the carburetor inlet filter
either cleaned or replaced. Note! Certain installations
can have additional filters or water separators, for example before the fuel cock. Ensure that all filters are
clean.
2. Check by removing the flame arrester and looking
down into the carburetor with the engine stopped. If
the engine is flooding, there will be fuel flowing in the
venturi. To stop the flooding, check the needle and
seat, and the float. Replace the needle and seat if
there is leakage. Check that the float can move freely.
If the carburetor is flooding due to contamination, then
the complete carburetor must be removed and
cleaned.

3. Check the needle and seat function and float level.

Adjust the float level as specified under Overhauling
the Carburetor.
4. General: Clean the choke mechanism and check that
linkage and choke valve is not sticking or seized.
When replacing parts or disassembling, adjustment of
the choke and the vacuum break (excl. Holley 2010)
must be completed.
The engine starts but stops again: Check the choke
warm-up function and that the electrical connections
are undamaged. Correct any sticking, check setting.
Holley 2010, 4160: Check the vacuum piston. Correct
any sticking. Check that there is no air leakage at the
cork gasket.
The engine is difficult to start: The choke valve is
not closing, check setting.
5. Check operation and make sure it is not sticking. Adjust as per specification in Overhauling the Carburetor. (Excl. Holley 2010.)

29

Carburetor sucking air, vacuum leak

Accelerator pump faulty/incorrectly adj
Air valve sticking/incorrectly adjusted
Contamination in carburetor

Idling speed incorrectly adjusted

Choke incorrectly adjusted

Holley 4160: Check that the vacuum housing diaphragm

or the cork gasket at the sealing face is not leaking. If leaking the secondary plates will not open fully.

Check that there is no contamination in the accelerator

pump fuel passages. Clean and blow through with compressed air.
8. Check the function and adjust the mechanism as per
specification under Overhauling the Carburetor.
9. Adjust the idle to the correct speed as per Technical Data.

Overhauling and Checking the

Rochester 4ME Carburetor,
431A, 431B, VP No. 856138-3
Functional Description
The carburetor is a four barrel, two-stage, down-draught carburetor.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
11.
13.
14.
15.
16.

30

Linkage for choke valve

Screw for the choke valve shaft
Choke valve lever
Choke valve shaft
Choke valve
Choke valve screw (2)
Screw for carburetor air horn (short)
Screw for carburetor air horn (long)
Secondary fuel needle hanger
Screw for carburetor air horn (countersunk 2)
Control lever for pump
Shaft for pump lever
Carburetor air horn, complete

Irregualr running

8)
X

Clean the carburetor

9)

7)

X
X

6. Check the gaskets and the mounting hardware. The carburetor should be tightened to a torque of 13 Nm (1.3
kpm/9 lbf.ft). Do not over tighten.

1. Carburetor Construction, Rochester 4ME.

7. Remove the flame arrestor and the cover. Check the function and setting of the accelerator pump, and the ball
valve.

6)

X
X

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Repl. the hose. Rochester

X
X

Poor fuel economy

Suddenly stops

Hesitates when accelerating

Loose or leaking vacuum hose

Loss of power during normal

acceleration
Loss of power during fast
acceleration or at high speed

Runs on, post ignition

Poor idling (too fast or slow)

Difficult starting

Starts but stops again

Will not start

SYMPTOM

CAUSE

djust the choke setting

17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
43.
45.
46.
47.
49.
50.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
59.
60.
62.
63.
64.
65.
66.
68.
69.
71.
72.
73.
75.

Fuel needle, secondary

Pump, complete
Spring, pump return
Gasket, carburetor air horn fuel bowl
Float, complete
Float shaft, complete
Spring, holder for primary fuel needles
Intermediate piece, fuel bowl
Protection plate, secondary venturi
Lever, choke rod (lower part)
Fuel needle, primary (2)
Main jet, primary (2)
Power piston for fuel needles, primary
Spring
Holder, ball pump discharge
Ball, check valve accelerator pump
Float needle and seat, complete (standard)
Fuel bowl, complete
Choke cover with spring
Arm
Locking screw
Locking washer
Chock housing
Shaft with lever
Seal
Spring, adjuster screw idle
Screw, idle speed adjustment
Spring, filter discharge
Filter, fuel intake
Gasket, fuel filter
Filter nut, fuel intake
Rod for vacuum break
Vacuum break, complete
Bracket for vacuum break
Hose for vacuum break
Gasket, throttle body fuel bowl
Throttle Body, completer
Fastening screw, throttle lever
Linkage, secondary valve
Lever
Linkage, accelerator pump
Spring, fuel needle idle mixture
Fuel needle, idle mixture
Fastening screw, throttle body to fuel bowl
Gasket, throttle body inlet manifold

2. The first stage (primary side) consists of two 1 3/8

(35 mm) barrels where the fuel is metered through a
combination of fixed main jets and tapered fuel needles (32). The up and down movement of the fuel
needles (31) in the main jets is controlled by a spring
loaded power piston (33). The power piston is regulated by manifold vacuum.
The primary side is also equipped with an accelerator
pump consisting of a spring loaded piston (18) that
moves in a fuel filled well. Movement of the piston is
controlled by a lever (14) that is connected by linkage
(69) to the throttle mechanism. When the throttle is
opened it pushes the piston down into the well forcing
fuel through the accelerator pump check valve (36) to
a passage and into the primary venturi.

The accelerator pump piston contains a check valve

on the piston plunger itself. When the piston moves
downward into the fuel well the valve is closed. When
the piston moves upwards, the valve opens allowing
the fuel well to fill and any gas to escape. The accelerator pump check valve closes when the pump piston moves upward preventing air from being sucked
into the pump well.
3. The second stage (secondary side) consists of two 2
1/4" (57 mm) venturis controlled by a mechanical set
of throttle plates as well as a vacuum operated air
valve. When the primary side throttle is completely
opened, linkage (66) opens the mechanically operated secondary throttle plates located at the bottom of
the carburetor bore (16). This exposes the vacuum
operated secondary air valve, mounted at the top of
the carburetor bore (16), to manifold vacuum. As the
air valve opens an eccentric cam mounted on the air
valve shaft lifts the hanger (11) and in turn the secondary needles (17). The tapered needles lift out of a
fixed orifice which meters the fuel proportionate to the
air flow through the venturi. The higher the needle is
lifted the more fuel is delivered to the secondary venturi.
4. The fuel bowl is centrally located between the two primary venturis, which makes for a short fuel transfer
distances to both the primary and secondary fuel circuits. The float (21) is made of a closed cell plastic
material hung on a lever, which pivots on a shaft (22).
The other end of the lever operates the float needle
which works in a brass seat (34).
The incoming fuel must first pass through a spring
loaded filter (55). Should the filter become blocked so
that fuel cannot flow through, the fuel pump pressure
will overpower the spring pressure (54) and bypass
the clogged filter element.
5. Idle System. The primary side of the carburetor incorporates an idle system to supply the correct air/fuel
mixture during idle and off-idle operation. The idle circuit is necessary since airflow through the venturi at
these slow engine speeds is insufficient to obtain efficient metering through the main metering system.
Fuel flows from the main jets to the main well. It then
passes through the idle passage where it is picked up
by the idle tube. At the top of the idle tube it mixes
with air from the idle air bleeds and flows down another passage, through an idle channel restriction,
and exits through the idle discharge hole below the
slightly opened throttle plate. The idle discharge hole
has an adjustment screw (53) to provide the correct
mixture setting. Turning the screw in (clockwise)
leans the mixture out and turning it out
(counter-clockwise) richens the mixture up.
6. Vacuum break. The secondary air valve is controlled
by a vacuum break (59). It consists of a spring loaded
diaphragm which is connected to the air valve by a
piece of linkage (58). When manifold vacuum exceeds 127-152 mm Hg (5-6" Hg) the diaphragm fully
retracts by overcoming the spring tension. In this position the linkage (58) is in the rearmost of the slot of
the air valve lever and the air valve is consequently
closed.

31

As the spring pressure holding the choke closed decreases the vacuum underneath will gradually take
over so that the valve will continually open until the
spring is completely unwound. The electric heating of
the choke is done in two stages with a built-in thermostat monitoring the temperature of the choke housing.
If it is sufficiently hot, due to the rising heat from the
engine, the spring will be heated rapidly. In this condition the bimetallic spring is already partially unwound due to the engine heat, the choke valve will
open much faster. Therefore little or no choke is used
when starting a warm engine.

During acceleration or when the engine under load

manifold vacuum drops and the diaphragm spring
overcomes the effect of the vacuum on the diaphragm and presses it outward. The linkage (58) extends and moves forward in the lever groove and allows the air valve to open.
The vacuum connection to the diaphragm has a restriction to provide gradual opening of the air valve.
This is done so that the heavier fuel gets a chance to
start to flow to the secondary discharge nozzles to
prevent a lean mixture.
7. The carburetor has an electric choke. There is a bimetallic spring which keeps the choke valve in the
closed position when the engine is cold. Upon starting the bimetallic spring is electrically heated and the
spring begins to unwind. As it unwinds it begins to
open the choke valve by means of the choke arm
(43) and linkage (1). When the choke shaft (49) turns
as the choke opens it releases the lock for the secondary air valve and allows the secondaries to operate if required.

8. Carburetor Air and Fuel System

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.

32

Carburetor cover
Primary barrel (first stage)
Secondary barrel (second stage)
Fuel bowl
Accelerator pump (primary barrel)
Primary venturi with discharge nozzle
Secondary valve
Air valve (secondary)
Fuel channel secondary barrel
Channels, idle system
Fuel channel primary barrel
Accelerator fuel channel (primary)
Fuel needle (secondary)
Fuel pipe (secondary)
Main jet (secondary)

Overhauling and checking

11. Place the carburetor in the fixture 884620-6. Remove

the arm for the choke intermediate linkage at the
choke valve. Remove the small TORX screw for the
secondary hanger (in the middle of the secondary air
valve) and pull out the hanger together with the needles.
9. Removing the carburetor
Remove the carburetor protective cover, wrench size
10 mm. Remove the flame arrestor, wrench size 11
mm. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle mechanism. Remove the fuel line, wrench size 17 mm. Remove the carburetor, together with the brackets for the
protective cover, wrench size 1/2".
NOTE! Do not forget to disconnect the electrical connections to the choke.
10. Dismantling the carburetor cover
NOTE! Before opening the carburetor, it must be cleaned
if it is dirty externally. Clean carefully using a brush and
carburetor cleaner, thinners or other denatured alcohol.

WARNING! Always work in well ventilated areas.

No open flames!

12. Push in the pin for the accelerator pump lever, using
drift 884613-1, only far enough to release the lever.
When reassembling, the pin is pressed in with a
screwdriver.

IMPORTANT! Never use more cleaner than absolutely necessary and minimize your exposure to
these solvents as they may be harmful. The carburetor must never be immersed in cleaning fluid to
remove dirt. Rubber or plastic components can be
damaged by certain types of cleaning agents.
Hold the carburetor in the horizontal position with the
flame arrestor installed. If compressed air is used for drying and blowing clean, pull a plastic bag over the flame
arrestor. Blow from above and downward. Do not direct
the air in from underneath the carburetor. Remove the
flame arrestor and wipe both the upper edge and underside clean with a clean lint-free rag.

13. Remove the center stud. Remove the two countersunk screws in the carburetor bore, remove the two
baffle screws and the three short and two long
screws. All the screw heads are TORX 20. Pry loose
the carburetor cover carefully so that it releases from
the gasket. Lift the cover and remove the vacuum
break linkage.
NOTE! Be careful not to let the accelerator pump fall
from the cover.

33

Never use tools to do this. Remove the fuel bowl

plastic spacer (3). Remove the power piston return
spring. Remove the float and float needle together by
pulling them out by the float hinge pin (4). The float
needle and float hinge pin can now be removed from
the float. Remove the seat and remove the seal.

16. Adjusting the air valve spring

14. Checking and adjusting the float level

Remove the fuel bowl spacer to allow better accessibility. Hold the float shaft (1) in position while measuring, see diagram. Lightly press the float arm (2)
against the float valve. Measure from the upper edge
of the fuel bowl to the top of the float (3), 4.8 mm (3/
16") from the tip of the float.

Loosen the locking screw (1) approximately 1/4 turn

using a Torx driver, TRX10. Turn the adjuster screw
(2) counter-clockwise until the air valve is partly
opened. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise until the
air valve just closes, and then turn it another 7/8 turn.
Lock with the locking screw (1).

Use T-gauge 884616-4. The float level should be 6.6

mm (0.26") Adjusting: Remove the float and bend the
float arm (4) up or down. Check after adjusting that
the float hangs straight.

17. Installing the carburetor cover

15. Replacing the needle and seat

Remove the carburetor cover gasket, being careful
where the primary needles pass through the gasket.
Remove the return spring for the accelerator pump
(1). Remove the power piston together with the primary needles as one unit (2). This is done by repeatedly
pressing down and quickly releasing the piston.

34

Fit a gasket carefully over the primary needles and

guide pins. Check that the gasket holes for the fuel
passages are correctly centered. Install the vacuum
break linkage to the air valve lever. Carefully lower
the cover. Check that the accelerator pump locates
correctly into the return spring. Install the secondary
needles and hanger.

20. Checking and adjusting the choke lever

18. Install the two long screws, 6 and 7 and the two
countersunk, 1 and 2. Install the baffle with screws 3
and 4. Install the remaining screws and tighten in the
sequence shown in the diagram. Install the accelerator pump lever.

Remove the cover for the choke.

Close the choke valve (1) by pressing up the choke
arm (2) insert a 3 mm (3/16") drift into the hole in the
choke housing.
The lower edge of the choke arm (4) should make
light contact with the drift.
Adjusting: bend the linkage arm at (5), see diagram
insert.

21. The choke coil setting

Loosen the locking screw (1).

With the choke valve fully open (cold choke and engine), turn the choke cover (2) until the choke valve
just closes.
Turn to the O-mark on the choke housing (3).
Tighten the locking screws.

19. Checking and adjusting the accelerator pump

stroke

Throttle valve (1) must be completely closed.

If necessary, bend away the stop tang (2) so that the
primary throttle valve can be closed completely. (Diagram is with throttle arm removed.)
The linkage must be in the innermost hole on the accelerator pump lever (3).
Measure from the top of the carburetor (4) (by the
bowl vent) to the pump rod at its upper position. The
distance should be 9.1 mm (0.36"). Bend the accelerator pump lever (5) when adjusting.
22. The vacuum break setting

Place an angle gauge 884617-2 on the choke valve

as per points 26-28.
Press the throttle arm tang lightly against the vacuum
break rod (3).

35

The choke valve should open to the set number of

degrees: 26. Check on the bubble level. If necessary, adjust by bending the throttle arm tang (3).

23. Simplified setting (less accurate)

Press in the vacuum rod (5)

Press the valve arm tang lightly against the vacuum
break rod (3)
Measure the valve opening (6) using a 3 mm (3/16")
drill bit.
Where necessary, adjust by bending the throttle arm
tang (3)

27. Close the choke valve (1) and place the magnetic foot
of the tool on the valve (2). Zero the degree plate and
center the bubble level (4).
28. Adjust the degree plate to the angle given (33) (5).
Adjust carburetor if necessary (as per 28 and 24) until
the bubble level is centered.

29. Checking and adjusting the secondary valve opening ratio

24. Checking and adjusting the choke unloader

Place an angle gauge 884617-2 on the choke valve

as per points 26-28. The choke coil must be at the
0-mark (1).
Hold the throttle valve wide open.
Close the choke valve by pressing up the intermediate lever tang (2). Hold it in place using a rubber
band (3).
The choke valve shall open (incl. linkage play) at 33
(4).
When adjusting, bend the tang (5).

The screw is set to the correct idle speed (1)

The choke valve is completely open (2)
The lever is against the tang (3)
Measure the clearance in the oval hole (4) 3 mm
(1/8"). Do not touch the linkage rod during the measuring
When adjusting, bend the tang (at the arrow)

25. Simplified setting (less accurate)

Follow point 24, except, measure the choke valve

opening with a 4 mm (5/32") drill, instead of the angle
gauge. Place the drill on the underside of the valve
(by the float bowl vent).

26. Measuring with the angle gauge 884617-2

36

The angle gauge can be used for measuring the

choke valve opening angle. If the carburetor has
been removed, it must be placed so that the throttle
plates and linkage function in the same way as if the
carburetor was installed on the engine.

30. Adjusting the arm for the secondary valve (second

stage) opening function

Open the primary valve until the arm touches the tang
(1)
The arm (1) must be in the middle of the oval hole.
When adjusting, bend the tang (at the arrow) (3).

Nikki carburetor
430A, 430B, VP No. 856845-3
Overhauling and checking
31. The carburetors structure and function

1. Carburetor body and float chamber

2. Carburetor cover
3. Choke
4. Vacuum break
5. Fuel intake and filter
6. Carburetor float and mounting
7. Carburetor float needle valve
8. Venturi cluster
9. Acceleration pump
10. Return spring, acceleration pump
11. Power piston, maximum load
12. Power valve
13. Main jets
14. Non-return valve, acceleration pump
15. Idling mixture screw
16. Idle screw
17. Fast idle cam
18. Choke linkage
19. Choke throttle
20. Pump linkage

The Nikki carburetor is a twin-port, single-stage

down-draft carburetor. The diameter of the ports (venturi
tubes) is 43 mm (1.68").

32.Description of functions

The carburetor has two ports and two different measuring

systems for fuel and air. The carburetor receives fuel via
the main jets when the engine is idling or running at partial load. These main jets are of different sizes (190 on
the choke side, 145 on the lever side) in order to ensure
that fuel is distributed as evenly as possible in the engine. Fuel flows into the main fuel channels, one for each
port. The carburetor contains fuel tubes for idling and
partial-load systems and emulsion tubes for the main metering system and full-load system.

37

33. Idling system

35. Full-load system

This provides the engine with fuel when the throttle is

wholly or partially closed. It operates with the aid of negative pressure from the induction manifold.

The full-load system is a part of the main metering system

and complements the same when the engine is run at
high speeds or at large loads. In these cases, the negative pressure in the induction manifold is at its lowest
(close to atmospheric pressure) due to the large flow of
air when the throttle is open fully.
Extra fuel is supplied to the excess of air, as at full load it
is desirable to attain as much power as possible. The
negative pressure controls a spring-loaded vacuum piston (11) which opens an extra passage for fuel in addition
to the main jet. This full-load valve is known as a power
valve, is fitted with a return spring, and opens when the
vacuum piston reaches the power valves plunger. When
the vacuum in the engine increases, the vacuum piston
will travel upwards again. The power valve is then closed
by its return spring.
36. Acceleration pump
This is a type of piston fitted with a return spring. This piston is actuated mechanically from the damper. During acceleration, the piston is pushed down into its cylinder and
forces fuel from the pump barrel.

When the throttle is closed, the negative pressure at the

opening (1) below the throttle is high. Atmospheric pressure prevails at the opening (2). This great difference in
pressure forces air to rush into the mixing channel and
take fuel with it.
More air enters via a second choke tube (3). Fuel and air
are mixed in the mixing channel (4) which leads out to
the low speed jet (5). The amount of fuel and air is regulated using the mixture screw (6).
The idling system has an extra opening (4) which begins
to operate when the throttle begins to open and the negative pressure reaches the opening. This provides a
smooth transition from idling speed to partial load.
34. Main metering system
The system consists of emulsion tubes (7) which are recessed in the main fuel channels. The full-load system
gradually begins to operate when the throttle begins to
open and air flows down through the venturi tubes
(ports). According to the venturi principle, the pressure
then drops and the flow rate increases when the air passes the venturi tubes tapered end.
This is utilized in the carburetor by placing the fuel emulsion tubes opening inside the venturi tube. This opening
has been designed as a venturi cluster in order to increase the negative pressure still further.
The main fuel channel (8) receives air via the hole (10).
The fuel/air mixture will then be transported as a result of
the difference in pressure between the venturi cluster and
the fuel channel. The fuel and air are mixed in the emulsion tube (7) when air flows into the tubes side holes.

38

The pressure of the fuel then opens the seat valve (12),
upon which fuel arrives at two jets which direct the fuel
towards the venturi clusters of the two ports. When the
piston has stopped traveling downwards, the pressure in
the fuel channel drops and the seat valve closes, which
prevents air from entering the pump housing and prevents the channel from being sucked dry by the air flowing through the venturi tubes.
The pump piston is forced upwards by the return spring,
and the cylinder can again be filled with fuel from the float
chamber via the aperture (13).
37. Choke
This is electrical. On the choke cover is a bimetallic
spring which holds the choke throttle closed with its
spring action. When the engine is started from cold, the
bimetallic spring is heated electrically. When the engine
has cooled, the spring contracts and closes the throttle.

Overhauling and checking

38. Removing the carburetor
Remove the carburetors flame arrestor, spanner size 11
mm. Remove the throttle cable from the control mechanism. Unscrew the feed pipe, spanner size 17 mm. Remove the carburetor, spanner size 1/2".
IMPORTANT! Do not forget to remove the chokes electrical connection.
39. Removing the carburetor cover
N.B.! If the outside of the carburetor is dirty, clean it before
dismantling it. Clean this carefully using a brush and carburetor cleaner, paint thinner or denatured alcohol such
as methylated spirit.

WARNING! Work in a well ventilated area. There

should be no naked flames in the working area.

41. Remove the pin for the acceleration pump linkage.

IMPORTANT! Do not use more cleaner than is absolutely necessary, and use it for as little time as
possible. The carburetor must not be dipped in the
cleaning fluid in order to loosen contaminants. The
fluid may damage plastic and rubber parts.
Replace all the carburetors gaskets and O-rings
when overhauling it. The gasket surfaces should
be cleaned using a mild solvent such as paraffin.
All channels, jets and passages should be blown
clean carefully using compressed air.
Hold the carburetor horizontal with the flame arrestor fitted. If you are using compressed air to dry the carburetor
and blow it clean, a plastic bag should be slipped over
the flame arrestor to protect it. Blow the carburetor clean
from the top downwards. Do not direct the flow of air in
under the carburetor. Remove the flame arrestor and dry
the upper and lower sides of the carburetor with a clean,
lint-free rag.

42. Remove the idle cam.

40. Remove and clean the fuel filter. If the filter is extremely blocked, unfiltered fuel may reach the carburetor if the fuel pressure exceeds the spring pressure
in the filter. If this is the case, the entire carburetor
should be cleaned carefully.

39

45. Checking and adjusting the float level, lower position

43. Remove the eight screws in the carburetor cover. If

the cover is stuck, tap it lightly with the shaft of your
screwdriver in order to loosen it. Undo the vacuum
hose and remove the vacuum break and linkage as a
single unit.

44. Checking and adjusting the float level, upper position

Measure from the lower dot on the float to the carburetor
gasket, which should be in position. Use a T-gauge, part
no. 884616-4 (1). The float level should be at 10 mm
(0.39"). When adjusting this level, bend the ball-float lever (2) in the direction of the arrow. After adjusting the
level, check that the float (3) is straight.

40

Turn the carburetor over and let the float (1) hang freely.
Measure from the gasket to the joint on the tip of the float.
The level (2) should be 35.6 mm (1.42"). When adjusting
the level, bend the tang (3) in the direction of the arrow.
Check that the float needle (4) does not stick at maximum
deflection.

46. Replacing the float needle

Remove the float by pressing out the float pin (1). The
float needle can now be unhooked from the ball-float lever.
NOTE! The float needle comprises three separate parts.
Unscrew the jet using a screwdriver with a 10 mm (0.39")
head. Screw on the new jet and fit a new gasket. Do not
forget to fit the baffle (2) around the float needle.

50. Setting the choke spring

47. Replacing the jets

Unscrew the jets using a wide-blade screwdriver. The
carburetor has two main jets (1) and a full-load jet (power
valve) (2). The main jets in the 430DP and 430SP are of
different sizes. Size 190 is fitted on the left-hand side (the
choke side), and size 145 is fitted on the right-hand side
(the lever side).

Loosen the locking screws (1). With the choke valve fully
open (cold choke), turn the choke cover against the tension of the bimetallic spring until the choke closes. Then
turn to the 0-mark (2) on the choke housing. Tighten the
locking screws (1).

48. Fuel channels

Blow the carburetors air ducts and fuel channels clean
using compressed air. Remove the venturi cluster and
blow it clean separately.

51. Checking the pressure relief of the choke

49. Venturi cluster, structure

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Hold the throttle (1) fully open. Measure between the upper side of the choke throttle and the carburetor barrel.
The gap width (2) should be 6 mm (0.23"). When adjusting this, bend the tang (3). Positions A and B refer to the
order in which the linkages are fitted when the carburetor
cover has been removed. Linkage A is fitted before Linkage B.

Venturi cluster with jets for the main metering system

Emulsion tubes
Fuel tube, idling system
Acceleration pump jets
Air intake, main metering system
Air intake, idling system
Air intake, idling system

41

52. Setting the idling speed

Connect a workshop tachometer to the engine. Turn the
adjustment screw (1) and set the idling speed in accordance with Technical Data.

53. Fitting the carburetor cover

Fit a new gasket. Check first of all that the float needle
baffle is fitted correctly. Then lower the cover and check
that the acceleration pump is positioned correctly in relation to the return spring. Fit the screw and tighten them all
evenly and in the sequence shown in the figure.
Fit all the linkages and the vacuum break. See also the
figure for item 51.

42

Holley 2010 carburetor

432A, VP No. 857248-9
Overhauling and checking
54. The carburetors structure and function

1. Carburetor body
2. Carburetor cover
3. Choke
4. Choke throttle, choke arm
5. Float
6. Carburetor float needle valve
7. Venturi cluster
8. Acceleration pump
9. Non-return valve, acceleration pump
10. Cam, acceleration pump
11. Throttle control bracket
12. Arm, acceleration pump
13. Full-load valve (power valve)
14. Main jets
15. Idling mixture screws
16. Idle screw
17. Float chamber ventilation

The Holley 2010 is a twin-port, single-stage downdraft

carburetor. The carburetor has only a few main parts and
is therefore simple to take apart and easy to clean and
check.

43

The two ports are fed with fuel by an idling system, a

main metering system, a full-load system and an acceleration pump.

The carburetor body (1) is cast in a single piece and has

twin ports (venturi tubes). The float and choke throttle are
mounted on the carburetor cover (2).

55. Idling system

This provides the engine with fuel when the throttle is
wholly or partially closed. It operates with the aid of negative pressure from the induction manifold.
When the throttle is closed, the negative pressure at the
opening (1) below the throttle is high. Atmospheric pressure prevails at the opening (2). This great difference in
pressure forces air to rush into the mixing channel and
take fuel with it at the connection with the fuel channel.
This fuel has been mixed with air in the idle chamber,
which is located on the top of the reinforcement piece.
See positions 7 to 9 in the figure below. The opening has
idling jets (6) which regulate the flow of the fuel/air mixture.
The float chamber has main jets and a vacuum-controlled
full-load valve (power valve) located in the bottom. The
float chamber also has an outlet directly to the acceleration pump. The float chamber is ventilated via a breather
pipe which opens out over the twin ports.

The idling system has extra openings (4) which also begin to operate when the throttle begins to open and the
negative pressure reaches the opening. This provides a
smooth transition from running on the idling system to
running on the main system. Fuel is fed into the idling
systems fuel channel via the main jet (7). When the float
chamber is at atmospheric pressure, the difference in
pressure helps the fuel to be sucked in at point (3).
The fuel channel has a restrictor (5) which controls the
amount of fuel to the idling system.

The float is made of plastic and is center-suspended. The

floats lever actuates the seat valve, which can be replaced. The inlet is fitted with a fuel filter made of brass
mesh.

44

57. Full-load system

56. Main metering system

This system works according to the venturi principle. This
means that air which flows via the tapered end of a tube
has the greatest flow rate, and the lowest pressure is
found in the narrowest part.
This is utilized in the carburetor by placing the fuel emulsion tubes opening into the venturi tube. This opening
has been designed as a venturi cluster (1) in order to increase the negative pressure still further. The emulsion is
produced by fuel at atmospheric pressure being fed from
the float chamber to the mixing channel (3) via the main
jet (2).
The fuel/air mixture is formed by air flowing out from the
tubes (4) of the venturi cluster. These tubes have holes
bored into the sides and are recessed in the main fuel
channels. Air flows into the inlet opening (5) (where atmospheric pressure prevails), down into the tubes and
into the holes in the sides of the tubes. The difference in
pressure between the venturi cluster (1) where the fuel/
air mixture comes out (negative pressure) and the point
(5) and the float chamber (atmospheric pressure) thereby
provides the driving force for the transportation of the fuel.
Extra air which helps to transport the fuel is taken in via
position (6). The idling systems vaporizing chamber is
located at position (7), which chamber receives fuel via
the tube (8) and air via the hole (9).
The amount of air which flows through the venturi tube
determines how much fuel is forced out of the float chamber.

The full-load system is a part of the main metering system

and complements the same when the engine is run at
high speeds or at large loads. In these cases, the negative pressure in the induction manifold is at its lowest
(close to atmospheric pressure) due to the large flow of
air when the throttle is open fully.
Extra fuel is supplied to the excess of air, as at full load it
is desirable to attain as much power as possible. The
negative pressure controls a spring-loaded vacuum valve
(1) which opens an extra passage for fuel in addition to
the main jet. This power valve is numbered according to
the vacuum at which it opens. For example, a 65 opens
when the negative pressure drops to 6.5" of mercury.
When the throttles start to close and the negative pressure rises, the spring action is overcome and the extra
fuel passage is closed. This allows the carburetor to provide optimum efficiency so that fuel consumption is low at
mid-range speeds, while still retaining the capacity for
high power.
58. Acceleration pump
This pump is of the diaphragm type and is located at the
bottom of the float chamber.
The acceleration pump has two functions:
1. To compensate for a shortage of fuel when the throttles
open and air rushes in. This shortage of fuel is explained
by the fact that fuel is considerably heavier, that is to
say, it has a higher density than air. This leads to the fuel
feed becoming sluggish when rapid changes are made
to the throttle position, and a mixture of fuel and air which
is too lean results.

The air flow velocity in the venturi tube is at its greatest,

the pressure in the venturi tube is at its lowest, and the
amount of fuel being transported is at its greatest when
the throttles are fully open. The main jets (which can be
replaced) limit the flow of fuel. These jets are marked with
a flow capacity expressed in cm3/min.

45

2. To enrich the fuel mixture in order to compensate for

the fuel which condenses on the surfaces of the induction
manifold when the throttle is opened quickly at low
speeds. A rapid drop in the negative pressure tends to
condense the fuel.

When the pressure in the fuel channel drops, the seat

valve (5) closes, which prevents air from getting into the
pump housing and the channel being sucked dry by the
flow of air in the venturi tube. The seat valve consists of a
ball, and a pin as a counterbalance. When the pressure
in the pump housing drops, the fuel in the float chamber
can open the non-return valve (diaphragm) by virtue of its
own weight, and then it can run down into the pump
housing. The return spring in the pump forces the pump
diaphragm back simultaneously so that new pump capacity is created.
59. Choke

The pump is actuated mechanically by the damper. The

damper is fitted with a plastic cam (1) which actuates the
lever (2) of the acceleration pump via an intermediate lever. The design of the cam determines the capacity of the
pump, and its profile determines how the fuel is distributed when the throttle opens.

This is electrical. On the choke cover is a bimetallic

spring which holds the choke throttle closed with its
spring action. When the engine is started from cold, the
bimetallic spring is heated electrically. When the engine
has started, the piston (which is controlled by negative
pressure in the choke housing) drags the choke throttle to
a set position, known as the qualified position. The bimetallic spring causes the choke throttle to continue
opening.
When the engine has stopped and cooled, the spring
contracts and closes the throttle.

Overhauling and checking

Technical data
Engine
Main jets
left
right
Full-load valve
(power valve)
Choke setting

Fuel runs down into the pump from the float chamber via
the channel (3). When the pump lever pushes the pump
diaphragm up (the diaphragm is fitted with a return
spring) the feed channel is closed by the pump pressure
via a plastic diaphragm (4). The fuel is then forced into a
channel to a seat valve (5), which opens, and the fuel arrives at the jets (6). These jets force out a jet of fuel directed towards the venturi cluster in the ports.

46

VP 857248-9
432A, DP/SP
76
80
65
7 marks from the left

60. Removing the carburetor from the engine

Undo the carburetors protective cover, socket size 10
mm. Remove the electrical connection to the choke and
the vacuum hose to the gasoline pump. Remove the
throttle cable and the return spring. Undo the fuel pipe
connections, spanner sizes 17 and 19 mm.

WARNING! Avoid spilling fuel.

62. Removing the carburetor

Remove the carburetor from the induction manifold, Allen

key size 1/4".
61. Removing the carburetor cover
NOTE! If the outside of the cover is dirty, clean it before
opening the carburetor. Clean this carefully using a brush
and carburetor cleaner, paint thinner or denatured alcohol such as methylated spirit.

WARNING! Work in a well ventilated area. There

should be no naked flames in the working area.
IMPORTANT! Do not use more cleaner than is absolutely necessary, and use it for as little time as
possible. The carburetor must not be dipped in the
cleaning fluid in order to loosen contaminants. The
fluid may damage plastic and rubber parts.

63. Unscrew the carburetors center screw, spanner size

11 mm.

NOTE! Replace all the carburetors gaskets and O-rings

when overhauling it. The gasket surfaces should be
cleaned using a mild solvent such as paraffin. All channels, jets and passages should be blown clean carefully
using compressed air.
Hold the carburetor horizontal with the flame arrestor fitted. If you are using compressed air to dry the carburetor
and blow it clean, a plastic bag should be slipped over
the flame arrestor to protect it. Blow the carburetor clean
from the top downwards. Do not direct the flow of air in
under the carburetor. Remove the flame arrestor and dry
the upper and lower sides of the carburetor with a clean,
lint-free rag.
Place the carburetor in support no. 884620-6. Alternatively, fit four M8 or 5/16" screws of a minimum length of 45
mm (1.76") into the carburetors mounting holes in order
to prop the carburetor up on legs.
64. Remove the circlip which fixes the choke linkage in
position.

65. Unscrew the three TORX 20 screws and lift off the
choke housing. Unscrew the six TORX 25 screws and
carefully remove the carburetor cover. Tapping it
lightly with a plastic mallet or the shaft of a screwdriver may facilitate this.

47

66. Remove the acceleration pump from the float chamber, TORX 20 screw head.

67. Remove the pump diaphragm and the return spring.

Leave the non-return valve diaphragm, shown in the
figure, in place. Check that the diaphragms are undamaged.

68. Remove the cover of the full-load valve, TORX 20

screw.

48

69. Remove the full-load valve using a 1" ring spanner.

When refitting this valve, tighten it to a torque of 11
Nm (1.10 kpm/8.14 ft. lb.).

70. Remove the venturi cluster.

NOTE! The non-return valve for the acceleration
pumps fuel channel is located beneath the hollow
screw of the venturi cluster.

71. Unscrew the main jets from the float chamber using a
wide-blade screwdriver of at least 8 mm (0.31") width.

72. Unscrew the idle screws of both ports.

76. Replacing the float and seat valve
73. Clean the inside of the carburetor body using a mild
cleaning agent such as paraffin. All channels should
be blown clean using compressed air.
74. Clean all the parts of the carburetor which you have
removed. Blow all the channels in the venturi cluster
and the hollow screw clean. Check that the diaphragms of the acceleration pump and the full-load
valves are undamaged.

Press out the float pin and remove the float. To replace
the seat valve, unscrew the locking screws. The valve
can now be unscrewed using the adjusting nut.
NOTE! Do not lose the nut which is loose on the valve.
Lubricate the O-ring before fitting it, and place new gaskets on the upper and lower sides of the adjusting nut.

Adjustment
77. Adjusting the float level

WARNING! Exercise extreme caution when adjusting the float level. There should be no smoking, naked flames or sparks in the working area. Beware
of moving parts of the engine such as belts and
pulleys.

75. Checking the choke housing

Remove the choke housing. Check that the chokes vacuum piston does not jam. Blow the vacuum duct clean using compressed air. If necessary, remove the piston by
unscrewing the choke spindle. Press in the stop rivet at
the piston rod and pull out the piston. If necessary, polish
the piston using an extremely fine emery cloth. Blow the
vacuum duct clean using compressed air. Oil the shaft
and the hub of the accelerating chamber lightly. Fit the
parts. Do not forget to push the rivet back.
78. Unscrew the level plug with the engine idling and the
gears in neutral. Undo the locking screw and turn the
adjusting nut until the fuel level is level with the bottom of the level hole. Increase the speed of the engine a few times with the gears in neutral to check the
setting. Tighten the locking screw, holding it in position using a 16 mm (5/8") spanner. Replace the level
plug.

49

79. Setting the idling speed

The screws for controlling the idling mixture are located

on either side of the carburetor body. If these screws
have been removed, the mixture must first be adjusted to
a basic setting. With the engine switched off, screw in the
mixture control screws until they bottom. Do not screw
them in too hard, as this may damage their seats. Then
unscrew both screws a 3/4 turn (counterclockwise).

81. Connect a vacuum gauge to the outlet on the induction manifold. Note the starting positions of the mixture control screws (screwdriver slot). Adjust both
screws equally, 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until attaining
the highest possible value on the vacuum gauge. Reset the idling speed to 750 r/min using the throttle
stop screw. Then repeat the same procedure once
more.
82. Setting the acceleration pump

80. Run the engine up to operating temperature. Set the

idling speed to 750 r/min using the idling mixture
screw. Use a workshop tachometer.

Check that the plastic cam is in position 2. Set the adjusting screw on the pump lever so that it is in contact with
the pump rocker arm when the engine is idling.
83. Check the setting. The pump rocker arm will begin to
move as soon as the plastic cam moves if the setting
is correct. At the same time, the setting should allow
the pump rocker arm to move slightly when the throttle is fully open. The clearance between the pump
rocker arm and adjusting screw should be 0.40-0.50
mm (0.016-0.020") when the throttles are fully open.
84. Check the operation of the throttle with the throttle cable connected. Get someone to operate the throttle
controls at the helm. The engine should be switched
off. Remove the flame arrestor and observe the venturi cluster. The slightest acceleration by the throttle
control handle should result in fuel being sprayed out
from the jets towards the venturi. Adjust any clearance in the throttle control mechanism.

50

85. Adjusting the choke

The choke is adjusted in three stages: basic setting, setting the choke spring, and setting the choke balance.
A. Basic setting

88. Turn the choke cover so that the adjustment mark is

aligned with the correct adjustment mark on the
choke housing. This setting should be 7 marks from
the left. Tighten the choke cover.
C. Setting the choke balance

86. Bend a wire with a maximum diameter of 0.70 mm

(0.027"). The bent end should be no more than 3 mm
(0.12") long.
1. Push the wire into the piston groove until it bottoms.
Pull this wire out together with the piston until the wire
gets caught.
2. Push the closed choke throttle gently with your finger.
3. The distance between the lower side of the choke
throttle and the wall of the carburetor body should be
between 6.35 and 7.60 mm (0.25 and 0.30"). Measure this using a drill shank.
4. When adjusting this setting, turn the adjusting screw
inwards (clockwise) to reduce the gap and outwards
to increase it.

1. The choke should be set correctly as specified in sections A and B.

2. Throttles fully open.
3. Push the closed choke throttle gently.
4. Measure the distance between the lower side of the
choke throttle and the wall of the carburetor body.
This gap should be at least 7.10 mm (0.28").
5. When adjusting the setting, bend the tang on the lever of the damper (below the choke housing).

B. Setting the choke spring

87. Check that the ring of the bimetallic spring is positioned around the choke arm in the choke housing (if
the choke has been dismantled).

51

Holley 4160 carburetor

434A, VP No. 857382-6
Overhauling and checking
89. The carburetors structure and function

1. Carburetor body
2. Throttle housing
3. Float chamber, primary side
4. Float chamber, secondary side
5. Choke
6. Vacuum unit, secondary side
7. Float, primary side
8. Float, secondary side
9. Float valve, primary side
10. Float valve, secondary side
11. Fuel filter, gasket
12. Metering unit, primary side
13. Metering unit, secondary side
14. Main jets
15. Lever, acceleration pump
16. Idling mixture screws
17. Acceleration pump
18. Full-load valve (power valve)
19. Fuel jet, acceleration pump
20. Idle screw
21. Throttle control bracket
22. Feed pipe, primary and secondary
sides
23. Feed pipe, acceleration pump
24. Cam, acceleration pump
25. Stop screw, secondary throttle

The Holley 4160 is a four-port, dual-stage downdraft carburetor. The carburetor has two separate fuel systems, one for the
primary side and one for the secondary side.

52

The carburetor is structured in modules comprising float

chambers (1), metering plates (2), throttle housing (3)
and the carburetor housing (4) with its four ports (venturi).
The diameter of the primary port is 34.00 mm (1.34"), and
the diameter of the secondary port is 32.00 mm (1.26").

92. Idling system

This provides the engine with fuel when the throttles are
wholly or partially closed. Fuel enters from the float chamber via the main jet (1) and goes on to the main vaporizing chamber. From here, the fuel flows via a restrictor (2)
into the idling mixture chamber. The fuel is mixed with air
from the jet (3) in this idling mixture chamber. The fuel/air
mixture is sucked down via a channel, where it is distributed. Some of the mixture goes to the opening (5), while
most of it is fed to the idle port (6). Adjusting screws (7)
control the amount of fuel/air mixture at the port (6). The
disks open in order to provide a smooth transition from
the idling system to the main metering system.
93. Main metering system

90. Float chambers

This system works according to the venturi principle. This

means that air which flows via the tapered end of a tube
has the greatest flow rate, and the lowest pressure is
found in the narrowest part. This is utilized in the carburetor by placing the fuel emulsion tubes opening into the
venturi tube.

The float chambers accommodate floats which are suspended on one side. The lever of each float actuates a
seat valve (1) which is located in a plastic baffle. This
valve can be replaced. The inlet is provided with a brass
mesh fuel filter. The primary side float chamber is linked
externally to the secondary side float chamber.
91. First stage (primary side)
The primary side has two ports which are fed with fuel
from the idling system, main metering system, full-load
system and the acceleration pump.

53

A spring-loaded full-load valve or power valve (1) regulated by the negative pressure in the induction manifold
opens and allows more fuel to flow to the opening of the
fuel emulsion tube. The full-load valve is numbered and
shows the negative pressure at which it opens. For example, a valve marked 25 opens when the pressure drops
to 2.5" of mercury.
When the pressure in the induction manifold exceeds the
opening pressure, the full-load valve closes and the extra
fuel flow is throttled. This optimizes the carburetor and
ensures that it uses a small amount of gasoline at
mid-range speeds, while still retaining the capacity for
high power output.
95. Acceleration pump
This opening has been designed as a venturi cluster (1)
in order to increase the negative pressure still further.
Fuel flows from the float chamber to the mixing channel
(3) via the main jet (2). The fuel is then sucked up via the
channel and is mixed with air from holes in the channel
(4). These holes are linked to the constrictions (5) located
in the carburetors air intake. The fuel/air mixture is
sucked up via the main mixing channel and is fed to the
opening on the fuel emulsion tube in the venturi cluster
(1).

This pump is of the diaphragm type and is located at the

bottom of the float chamber on the primary side.
The acceleration pump has two functions:
1. To compensate for a shortage of fuel when the throttles open and air rushes in. This shortage of fuel is
explained by the fact that fuel is considerably heavier, that is to say, it has a higher density than air. This
leads to the fuel feed becoming sluggish when rapid
changes are made to the throttle position, and a mixture of fuel and air which is too lean results.
2. To enrich the fuel mixture in order to compensate for
the fuel which condenses on the surfaces of the induction manifold when the throttle is opened quickly
at low speeds. A rapid drop in the negative pressure
tends to condense the fuel.

94. Full-load system

The full-load system is a part of the main metering system
and complements the same when the engine is run at
high speeds or at large loads. In both cases, the throttles
are fully open and the negative pressure in the induction
manifold is at its lowest. The engine works with an excess
of air, and more fuel must be supplied so that it can output more power.

54

The pump is actuated mechanically by the damper. The

damper is fitted with a plastic cam (1) which actuates the
lever (2) of the acceleration pump via a lever. The design
of the cam and its position on the damper (holes numbered 1 and 2 respectively) determine the capacity of the
pump, and the profile of the cam determines how the fuel
is distributed when the throttle opens. The lever is provided with an adjusting screw (3).

Fuel is fed to separate idling and main systems. The design and function are similar to those on the primary side.
The throttle is coupled to the vacuum break (1) via an arm
(2). A spring (3) is located on the upper side of the diaphragm which endeavors to hold the throttle closed. A
channel links the vacuum break with the ports of the primary side.
When a sufficiently large amount of air is flowing through
the primary ports, the negative pressure on the upper
side of the diaphragm will overcome the spring action
and the secondary sides throttle (4) will begin to open. If
the negative pressure in the ports on the primary side is
reduced, the spring will push down the diaphragm and
thereby close the secondary throttle.

Fuel runs down into the pump from the float chamber via
the open valve (3). When the pump lever pushes the
pump diaphragm up, which diaphragm is fitted with a return spring, this closes and forces fuel into a channel to
the metering plate. The fuel is then fed on to the jet (4) via
a long, diagonal passage. This jet opens and allows the
fuel to flow out into the opening on the carburetors venturi. When the pressure in the fuel channel has dropped,
the valve (5) closes and prevents air from forcing its way
into the acceleration pump housing and the passage
from being sucked dry by the negative pressure in the
venturi tube.

There is also a linkage to the primary throttle whose task

is to close the secondary throttle. This linkage is fitted for
safety reasons, to prevent a broken diaphragm spring in
the vacuum housing from locking the secondary throttle
in the open position.

When the throttles are closed, the pump rocker arm

moves to its original position and the return spring pushes the diaphragm down. Fuel flows through the open
valve (3) and fills the pump again.
96. Second stage (secondary side)
The second stage has two ports (venturi) which are fitted
with vacuum-controlled throttles.

97. Choke
The carburetor is fitted with an electric choke. The choke
cover contains a bimetallic spring which closes the choke
throttle when the engine is cold. When the engine is started from cold, the bimetallic spring is heated electrically.
When the engine has started, the piston (which is regulated by the negative pressure in the induction manifold)
drags the choke throttle to a preset position, known as the
qualified position. The bimetallic spring causes the
choke throttle to continue opening. When the engine is
switched off and cold, the spring contracts and closes the
throttle.

55

Overhauling and adjustment

Technical data
Engine
Main jets
primary left (lever side)
primary right (choke side)
Full-load valve (power valve)
Choke setting

VP 857382-6
434A, DP/SP
68
59
25
5 marks to the right

98. Removing the carburetor from the engine

Undo the carburetors protective cover, socket size 10
mm. Remove the flame arrestor, socket size 11 mm. Remove the electrical connection to the choke. Remove
the throttle cable and the return spring. Undo the fuel
pipe connections, spanner size 20 mm.

WARNING! Avoid spilling fuel.

99. Remove the carburetor from the induction manifold,
Allen key size 1/4".
100.

102. Place the carburetor in support no. 884620-6. Alternatively, fit four M8 or 5/16" screws of a minimum
length of 45 mm (1.76") into the carburetors mounting holes in order to prop the carburetor up on
legs.

Removing the carburetor

NOTE! If the outside of the cover is dirty, clean it before

opening the carburetor. Clean this carefully using a
brush and carburetor cleaner, paint thinner or denatured alcohol such as methylated spirit.

WARNING! Work in a well ventilated area. There

should be no naked flames in the working area.
IMPORTANT! Do not use more cleaner than is
absolutely necessary, and use it for as little time
as possible. The carburetor must not be dipped in
the cleaning fluid in order to loosen contaminants. The fluid may damage plastic and rubber
parts.
All the carburetors gaskets and O-rings should
be replaced when it is overhauled. The gasket
surfaces should be cleaned using a mild solvent
such as paraffin. All channels, jets and passages
should be blown clean carefully using compressed air.
101. Hold the carburetor horizontal with the flame arrestor fitted. If you are using compressed air to dry the
carburetor and blow it clean, a plastic bag should
be slipped over the flame arrestor to protect it.
Blow the carburetor clean from the top downwards. Do not direct the flow of air in under the
carburetor. Remove the flame arrestor and dry the
upper and lower sides of the carburetor with a
clean, lint-free rag.

56

103. Remove the float chambers screws on the primary

side. Remove the float chamber and the metering
unit together with the gaskets.
NOTE! The gaskets can be left in place. Tap the
parts lightly using the shaft of a screwdriver or a
plastic hammer. Pull out the feed pipe between the
float chambers. Replace the O-rings in the connections on the float chambers.
104. Clean away any remaining pieces of gasket using a
mild cleaning agent such as paraffin. Never use a
knife or a piece of metal, as this may scratch the
surfaces.
105. Repeat this procedure on the secondary side. Remove the metering unit and the gasket. Discard the
gasket. Remove the plate and gasket on the carburetor body. Loosen the gasket using a solvent.

106. Dismantle the choke.

First remove the locking pin which retains the choke
linkage.
IMPORTANT! Note the choke setting in relation to
the thermostat housing and choke housing so that
the thermostat housing may be replaced in the
same position.

110. Clean the inside using a brush and a mild cleaning

agent such as paraffin. Clean away any remaining
pieces of gasket using a mild solvent such as paraffin. Never use a knife or a piece of metal, as this
may scratch the surfaces. Blow the idle vents clean
using compressed air.
IMPORTANT! Steel wire or similar must not be used
for cleaning the fuel channels.

107. Remove the choke thermostat housing by removing

the three cross-head screws. Remove the choke
housing.

108. Remove the linkage to the vacuum break from the

arm of the damper. Remove the circlip with pliers.
Remove the vacuum break from the carburetor
body.
109. Remove the throttle housing, which is held in position by 8 screws. Tap it with a plastic hammer so
that the gasket loosens. Discard the gasket. No
more parts in the throttle housing are to be removed.

111. Remove the acceleration pump cover (1), the diaphragm (2) and the spring from the float chamber
on the primary side. Clean this in the same manner
as described above.
IMPORTANT! Take care to ensure that no solvent
comes into contact with the float or the diaphragm in
the pump. Check that the diaphragm is not damaged.

57

112. Check that the non-return valve (rubber seal) (3) is

undamaged so that the pump can fill up without
problems. If necessary, replace the gasket. Clean
the holes in the float chamber before putting on the
new seal.
113. Remove the fuel line nipple. Check the fuel filter (4)
and clean it if necessary. Put on a new gasket and
fit the nipple in the float chamber.

Pull the acceleration pump pipe out of the metering plate.

Discard the O-rings. Remove the full-load valve (power
valve) on the primary side, socket size 1".
Brush the metering plate clean and blow all the passages
clean using compressed air.
Fit the full-load valve and a new gasket. Tighten the valve
to a torque of 11 Nm (1.10 kpm/ 8.14 ft.lb.). Fit the main
jets.
Fit the idle needles and new cork gaskets. Replace the
acceleration pump pipe and fit new, lightly oiled O-rings.

114. Replacing the float, primary and secondary sides

Remove the float (1) by removing the circlip on the float
pin (2). Pull out the float and its spring.
Remove the float valve. The needle and seat are located
behind a baffle (3). This guard is fixed in a groove in the
float chamber. Pull the guard out of the float chamber.
Lift up the needle (4) from the seat (5). Unscrew the seat.
Put a new gasket under the seat.
Replace the parts in reverse order. Ensure that the lever
(6) on the needle is positioned correctly.
Adjust the float as described in the section entitled
Adjusting the float level.

116. Replacing the diaphragm in the vacuum break,

secondary side
Undo the 4 screws. Tap the cover lightly with the shaft of
a screwdriver to separate the parts. The spring and the
diaphragm (1) can now be replaced.
Blow the jet (2) clean. Replace the cork gasket (3).

115. Replacing the jets

Unscrew the main jets using a wide-blade screwdriver of
at least 8 mm (0.31") width. Unscrew the idle needle with
the cork gaskets.

58

Adjusting the carburetor

118.

Adjusting the float level

WARNING! Exercise extreme caution when adjusting the float level. There should be no smoking,
sparks or naked flames in the working area. Beware of moving parts of the engine.

Remove the ejector jet and gaskets (1) in the acceleration pump. Turn the carburetor body over and let the needle (2) in the jet drop into your hand. Blow this clean using compressed air. Always fit new gaskets.
Avoid removing anything else from the carburetor body.

The primary and secondary floats are both adjusted in

the same way. Drain the float chamber of gasoline and
remove the float chamber. Turn the float chamber
upside-down. Carefully bend the bent tang (1) which is in
contact with the float valve. Adjust the tang so that the
float is parallel to the float chamber when it closes the
valve (hold the float chamber upside-down). Clean away
any remaining pieces of gasket, fit a new gasket and replace the float chamber.

119.
117. Replacing the acceleration pump cam
Note the position (numbering on the screw hole) in the
washer on the damper. Press the acceleration pump feed
arm down. Unscrew the cam. Fit a new cam in the same
hole.

Setting the acceleration pump

Check that the plastic cam is fitted and that its upper hole
is in the position marked 1.
Set the adjusting screw on the pump lever so that it is in
contact with the pump rocker arm when the engine is
idling.

59

Check the setting. If the setting is correct, the pump rocker

arm will begin to move as soon as the plastic cam moves.
At the same time, the setting should allow the pump rocker arm to move slightly when the throttle is fully open. The
clearance between the pump rocker arm and adjusting
screw should be 0.25-0.40 mm (0.010-0.016") when the
throttles are fully open.
Check the operation of the throttle with the throttle cable
connected. Get someone to operate the throttle controls
at the helm. The engine should be switched off. Remove
the flame arrestor and observe the venturi cluster on the
primary side. The slightest acceleration by the throttle
control handle should result in fuel being sprayed out
from the jets towards the venturi. Adjust any clearance in
the throttle control mechanism.

Check the choke opening. The distance between the lower side of the choke throttle and the wall of the carburetor
body should be 6.50 mm (0.26"). Measure this using a
drill shank. Adjust using the stop screw, inwards for a
smaller opening and outwards for a larger opening.
IMPORTANT! Ensure that the stop screw is not screwed
so far out that the piston can pass the screw and thereby
sustain damage.
B. Setting the choke cover

120. Adjusting the choke

The choke is adjusted in three stages: basic setting, setting the choke spring, and setting the choke balance.
A. Basic setting

Check that the ring of the bimetallic spring is coupled to

the choke arm (if the choke has been dismantled).
Turn the choke cover so that the adjustment mark is
aligned with the correct adjustment mark on the choke
housing. This setting should be 5 marks to the right of the
0 mark (see figure).
If a richer or leaner mixture is required while the engine is
warming up, the choke cover can be turned one mark at a
time. Turning the cover counterclockwise (left) makes the
mixture richer, while turning it clockwise (right) makes it
leaner. Never adjust this by more than two marks from the
position specified see above.

Push the choke piston against the adjustable stop screw

(1) using a steel wire or the like. Be careful not to damage
any parts.
Push the choke housing arm closed so that there is no
play in the linkage to the throttle.

60

C. Setting the choke balance

Unscrew the adjusting screw until the throttles are fully

closed. Screw in the screw until it makes contact with the
lever stop lug. Screw in the screw a further 1/4 turn.
Check that the throttles cannot be turned so far in that
they get stuck in the ports. Adjust the screw again if required.
122. Idling adjustment

The choke should be set correctly.

The primary throttle should be fully open.
Push the closed choke throttle gently. Measure the distance between the lower side of the choke throttle and
the wall of the carburetor body. This gap should be 7.60
mm (0.30"). When adjusting the setting, bend the stud (1)
on the damper.

Start by setting the idling mixture by screwing in the idling

mixture screws until they bottom gently against the seats.
IMPORTANT! Tighten them only gently, otherwise the
jets and seats may be damaged.
Then screw the jets out by 3/4 turn.

121. Secondary throttle stop position

Run the engine up to operating temperature. Set the

idling speed to 750 r/min using the idle screw.
Turn the idling mixture screws in so that the engine
speed decreases. Unscrew both screws until the engine
is running at the correct speed. Unscrew the screws to
the same extent on both sides. The idling speed should
be 750 r/min.

61

62

Chapter 4B Cylinder heads

Removal of related parts

1. Remove the carburetors protection cover, wrench

size 10 mm. Remove the flame arrester, wrench size
11 mm.

3. Remove the carburetor together with the brackets for

the protection cover, wrench size 1/2".
NOTE! Do not forget to loosen the chokes electrical
connection. (Illustration shows the 431-engine.)

4. Remove the hoses from the thermostat housing. (Illustration shows an early version.)

2. Loosen the throttle wire from the control mechanism.

Unscrew the fuel pipe, wrench size 17 mm.

5. Remove the spark plug cables from the spark plugs.

Loosen and pull out the distributor, wrench size
9/16".

63

6. Loosen the temperature sender connection, wrench

size 3/8".

9. Remove the exhaust manifold(s). Unscrew the two

outer bolts and replace them with guide pin
884609-9. The pipe can then hang on these until the
remaining four bolts have been removed. Wrench
size 9/16"

7. Loosen the cable loom at the rear right hand side (if
the right hand cylinder head is to be removed).
Wrench size 9/16".

10. If the left hand cylinder head is to be lifted, the alternator and any servo pump must be removed. Wrench
size 14 mm. Slacken the alternator belt first, wrench
size 13 mm.

8. Remove the intake manifold, socket size 9/16".

64

Chapter 4C Cylinder heads

Overhauling the cooling
system

4. Where necessary, check the thermostat opening temperature by immersing the thermostat in hot water.
The thermostat should start opening at 62C (144F)
and should be fully open at 72C (162F).

1. Remove the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing. Check the condition of the hoses. (Illustration
shows an early version.)

5. Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the V-belt.

Wrench size 13 mm.
2. Remove the thermostat housing from the intake manifold, socket size 9/16". (Early version.)

3. Remove the circlip and take out the thermostat.

Use two screwdrivers. Early style of thermostat
housing has a circlip with eyelets for circlip pliers.

6. Remove and inspect the circulation pump. Wrench

size 9/6". Any evidence of damage or wear requires
the replacement of the pump as an assembly. Remove the pulley and install it on the new pump.
Wrench size 5/8".

65

Changing the exhaust risers gaskets

9. When changing the gaskets between the exhaust
pipe and the exhaust riser, the new configuration, including a flange, should be used. The new gaskets
have been fitted in engines with serial numbers from
around 4100137346 and upwards, but they should
also be used in older engines.

7. Remove the collant hoses from the sea water pump.

Remove the pump bracket from the pump. Wrench
size 1/2".
Remove the pump bracket from the engine block.
Wrench size 14 mm.
Remove the pump from the harmonic balancer, 5/16"
(Allen wrench).

10. Drain the cooling water from the exhaust pipe and riser by undoing the hose at the nipple (A). Remove the
exhaust riser. Carefully clean the gasket surface on
the exhaust pipe and riser. Fit the new gaskets as
shown in the figure.
NOTE! The middle gasket should be turned so that
the flange and the word UP are facing upwards.
11. Fit the exhaust riser and tighten the screws. Tightening torque: 25 Nm (2.50 kpm/18.50 ft.lb.). Fit the hose.

8. Remove the pump cover and pull out the pump housing using slip joint pliers. Remove the circlip and separate the pump and bearing housing. Take care of the
seal ring and washer. Check the ball bearing and replace if necessary. Lubricate the ball bearing thoroughly with grease and assemble the pump in the reverse order. Install the cover using a new gasket.

66

Chapter 4D Cylinder heads

Overhauling the valve system
Carry out steps 1-10 in 4B.

3. Remove the cylinder head(s) and remove gasket.

Socket size 5/8".

1. Remove the valve cover(s) and remove the gasket.

Wrench size 3/8". (Early models Torx TX 27.)

4. Remove the valves and springs. Use tool 9986052-0.

2. Remove the rocker arms and push rods, socket size

5/8". Remove the valve lifters if the engine block is to
be overhauled.
NOTE: Place the rocker arms, rocker arm balls, push
rods and valve lifters in the same order as were in the
cylinder heads. Mark their position so they can be installed in their original position when reassembling.

5. Remove the valve lock, upper washer, lower washer

and spring. Remove the O-ring from the valve stem
and take out the valve.
NOTE! Place the valves in a marked rack, so that they
can be fitted back to their original seats.

67

6. The intake valve has an extra seal on the valve guide.

Carefully remove the upper circlip using a small
screwdriver or similar. Pry apart and remove the lower circlip using circlip pliers. Remove the seal.

7. Remove any carbon deposits and remains of gaskets

(1) from the cylinder head. Make sure there are no
cracks in the combustion chamber, valve seats or
coolant channels (2).

8. Check the flatness of the cylinder head. Use a steel

ruler and feeler gauge.
A = Lengthwise direction
B = Diagonally

68

9.

Clean the valve guides using tool 884630-5.

10. Clean the valve seats using a reamer. The valve seat
angle should be 46. The same angle applies for intake and exhaust. The seat width should be 0.80-1.60
mm (0.031-0.062") for intake and 1.60-2.40 mm
(0.062-0.094") for exhaust.

11. Check the valves and valve guides for wear. (Lower
the valve approx. 1.5 mm (1 /16") when checking.
Permitted clearance:
Exhaust: 0.025-0.120 mm
(0.001-0.0047")
Inlet:
0.025-0.094 mm
(0.001-0.0037")

12. Where the clearance is excessive, the valve guides

should be reamed to the next oversize. Use reamer
kit 884991-1 which contains reamers for 0.015" OS
and 0.030" OS. The appropriate oversize valve
should then be used.

13. If necessary, machine the valves in a valve grinding

machine. The angle should be:
Exhaust valve: 45
Inlet valve: 45

16. Check the wear on the rocker arm bolts. Bolts with
damaged threads or that are loose in the cylinder
head must always be replaced with new ones.

17. Pull out the rocker arm bolt using tool 884627-1.
Place the longer sleeve on the bolt and tighten the
nut to the end of the thread. Unscrew the nut and
lengthen the sleeve length with the shorter sleeve,
pull out the remaining part of the bolt.

Minimum valve edge height after machining: 0.8 mm

(0.0315")
14. Ensure that valves and valve seats are seating properly. Apply marking dye to the valve seating surface
and rotate it with light pressure against the seat. If the
dye is not evenly distributed over the entire valve seat
surface (the valve is not sealing correctly), the valve
should be re-machined or the seat should be reground , and a new check carried out until the desired
result is obtained.

430A, 431A:
18. If necessary, ream to oversize. Use tool 884632-1.
NOTE! Installation of O.S. rocker arm bolt must always be preceded by reaming as the cylinder head
can be cracked otherwise.

15. Check the valve springs (without damper):

Length without load: 51.6 mm (2.03")
Length with 334-370 N: 44.0 mm (1.70")
Length with 853-905 N: 31.7 mm (1.25")

69

21. Clean the cylinder head so that no dirt or swarf remains in e.g. the valve guides. Blow clean with compressed air.

430A, 431A:
19. Fit new rocker arm bolt. Apply a thin coating of hypoid
oil to the bolts press surface. Tap down the bolt until
it bottoms using tool 884629-7.
NOTE! Place the cylinder head completely flat on a
piece of wood or similar to avoid damage to the sealing surfaces or deformity.

22. Install the valves. Lubricate the valve stem and fit the
valve in its original seat. Fit new seals on the inlet
valve guide.

430B, 431B, 432A, 434A:

23. Assemble the valve spring (with damper) (1), spring

protector (2), valve spring retainer (3) (inlet) and rotator (4) (exhaust).
Compress the spring with the valve spring compressor, and install the seal ring (5) in the valve stem bottom groove. Fit the valve keepers (6) in the upper
groove by using grease to keep them in place. Remove the valve spring compressor and install the remaining valves.
A = Inlet valve
B = Exhaust valve
20. Spread a little oil on the new rocker screws. Fit the
screws in the cylinder head.
Tightening torque: 47 Nm (4.70 kpm/34.8 ft.lb.).

70

VALVE LIFTERS
If there is noise in one or more of the lifters, all lifters
should be disassembled and cleaned.
Noise can have other causes than faulty lifters. See fault
diagnosis below.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS VALVE LIFTERS

Spontaneous noise when starting the engine: This

is quite normal and is due to oil having been drained
from the lifters when the engine has been stopped for
some time. It takes a few seconds for the lifters to fill
again after starting.

Spontaneous noise at idling, disappears with increased engine speed: This is an indication of worn
valve ball or dirt in the lifters.

Noise at idling or when engine oil is hot, quiet at

higher engine speed or with cold engine oil: Lifters
that leak a lot of oil.

Noise at high engine speed, but quiet at low speed:

Oil level above max on the oil dipstick the crankshaft whips the oil to foam, which causes the noise in
the lifters. Too low oil level the oil pump sucks air at
high engine speed or when the boat rolls. Air in the
oil can cause noise in the lifters.

25. Loosen the ball holder using a screwdriver.

Clean all parts and inspect them carefully. If any of
the internal parts are found to be worn the complete
valve lifter should be replaced.

26. Place the ball and spring in the piston and fit the ball
holder using a screwdriver.
24. Press down the piston using a push rod and remove
the circlip using a screwdriver. Release the push rod
and remove the internal parts.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

Roller
Lifter body
Plunger spring
Ball check retainer
Ball check spring
Ball
Plunger
Oil metering valve
Push rod seat
Retaining ring

71

27. Place the piston spring on the piston and insert into
the valve lifter.
NOTE! The oil holes in lifter body and piston must line
up.
Fill the lifter with SAE 20 oil and press down the piston using a 3 mm (1/8") drift (1) so that the oil holes
align.
NOTE! Do not pump the piston.
Insert a 1.5 mm (1/16") drift (3) through the oil hole (2)
so that the piston is locked in its bottom position. Remove the 3 mm (1/8") drift and fill the lifter with SAE
20 oil again.
Fit the valve, push rod seat and circlip. Press down
the seat and remove the 1.5 mm (1/16") drift.
28. Coat the bottom of the lifter with Molykote or equivalent and install the lifters in their original lifter-bores.
NOTE! New valve lifters should always be used when
a new camshaft has been installed. Fill the lifters with
oil and coat the bottom with Molykote or equivalent.

72

Chapter 4E Cylinder heads

Assembling the cylinder head

1. Make sure that the contact surfaces are clean. The

cylinder head bolts and hole threads in the block
must be clean so as not to affect the tightening torque.
2. Apply a thin coating of sealing compound, Locktite
518 or similar, to both sides of the gasket. (Applies to
steel gaskets only). Use a short fibre roller or brush.

Valve Mechanism

5. Install the push rods in the same location they had

when removed. Fit the rocker arms, rocker balls and
rocker arm nuts in the same order they were removed. When rocker arms or rocker balls are installed, they should be lubricated with Molykote or
equivalent.

NOTE! Composite gaskets should be fitted dry.

3. Locate the cylinder head gasket. Fit the cylinder
head. Fit in the head on the two guides.

4. Fit the cylinder head bolts. Apply Permatex or similar sealing compound. Tighten in two steps and in the
order illustrated above. The arrow indicates the front
direction.
Step 1
Step 2

50 Nm (5 kpm/36 lbf.ft)
90 Nm (9 kpm/66 lbf.ft)

73

Adjusting the valve clearance

430A, 431A

6. The engine has hydraulic valve lifters, and can be adjusted during re-assembly. Tighten the adjustment nut
until the rocker arm touches the valve and push rod
and a slight resistance can be felt when turning the
push rod. Thereafter tighten 3/4 additional turn.
A. Turn the engine until the no. 1 piston is in the firing
position. Check the marking on the vibration damper.
Valves for no. 4 should be rocking.
NOTE: With the engine in this position, the following
valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust: 1-5-6
Inlet: 1-2-3
B. Turn the engine one revolution (360 degrees) until
the No. 4 piston is in firing position, no. 1 valves
should be rocking. Check the marking on the vibration damper. With the engine in this position, the following valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust: 2-3-4
Inlet: 4-5-6

Adjusting the valve clearance 430B,

431B, 432A, 434A
7. Engines fitted with rocker arm screws with collars do
not require the valve clearance to be set. The rocker
arm nut needs only to be torque-tightened.
Tightening torque: 27 Nm (2.70 kpm/20 ft.lb.).

74

Chapter 4F cylinder heads

Installing the related parts

4. Tighten the manifold and replace the guide pins. Apply Molykote or similar to the bolt threads.
NOTE! The alternator bracket is fastened with the two
front bolts on the left hand exhaust manifold. Tighten
to 35 Nm (3.5 kpm/25 lbf.ft). Wrench size 9/16".

Installing the intake manifold

5. Fit any steering servo pump with bracket on the left

hand cylinder head. Do not forget the clip for the coolant hose to the thermostat housing. Wrench size
14 mm.

1. Fit the intake manifold using new gaskets and seal

the surfaces A and B with silicone rubber, part No.
841261-1. All sealing surfaces must be clean. Tighten
according to sequence C and torque to 47 Nm (4.7
kpm/34 lbf.ft) according to D. The arrow indicates front
direction.
NOTE! Do not forget the engines lifting eyes. The eye
with two holes should be fitted on the right hand side
rear, the other one on the left hand side front.

2. Fit the valve covers; use new gaskets. Tighten to 10

Nm (1 kpm/7.5 lbf.ft). Wrench size 3/8". (Early models
Torx TX 27.)

6. Fit the alternator bar and the V-belt to the alternator

and any steering servo pump. The V-belt should be
tensioned so that it can be depressed 8-10 mm
(0.315"-0.394") midway between the pulleys, using
thumb pressure.

3. Fitting the exhaust manifold

Screw in the two guide pins 884609-9 and hang on the
exhaust manifold. Use new gaskets and spring washers.
Locate the gaskets with the metal side facing outwards.

75

Engine 430A/B, 431A/B

7. Fit the bracket for ignition coil and main fuse.

Engine 430A/B, 431A/B

8. Fit the distributor as follows:
Screw out the No. 1 spark plug. Hold a finger over the
spark plug hole and rotate the engine slowly until there is
compression (i.e. the No. 1 valves do not rock). Set the
ignition mark on the vibration damper right opposite 0
on the ignition setting plate. Turn the distributor rotor so
that it points between the spark plug cables for No. 1 and
No. 6 in the distributor cover. Fit the distributor and connect the electrical cables.
NOTE! Do not forget the gasket between intake manifold
and distributor.
Engine 432A, 434A
9. See chapter Electronic ignition system, Fitting, Distributor pages 103-104.

76

10. Install the carburetor with new gaskets. At the same

time, fit the brackets for the carburetor cover; do not
forget the spacer sleeves between bracket and carburetor for the front bracket. (Certain models only.)
Tighten to 16 Nm (1.6 kpm/11.6 lbf.ft). Fit the fuel
pipe.

11. Connect the electrical cables for the choke and temperature sender.

Chapter 5 Engine block

This chapter covers the engine block and related parts as follows:
Procedure

Page

5A. Removing the related parts ........................................................................... 79

5B. Overhauling the crankshaft assembly .......................................................... 81
5C. Overhauling the camshaft ............................................................................ 91
5D. Overhauling the balance shaft, 432A, 434A ................................................. 97
5E. Fault-tracing and repair, ignition system ....................................................... 99
5F. Installing related parts ................................................................................. 111

77

78

Chapter 5A Engine block

Removal of related parts

4. Loosen the belt pulleys and remove the circulation

pump. Remove the pulley from the vibration damper. Sleeve size 5/8"
1. Remove the starter motor and flywheel housing.
Wrench size 9/16".

2. Remove the fuel pump and sea water pump. Wrench

sizes 3/8" and 17 mm for the fuel pump, 5/16" Allen
wrench and 14 mm for the sea water pump.
3. Remove the fuel filter.

79

80

Chapter 5B Engine block

Overhauling the crankshaft
assembly
Removal

3. Loosen the three bolts for the camshaft gear and remove the gear and chain. Wrench size 1/2".
1. Remove the front vibration damper. Use puller
884608-1.

2. Remove the timing gear cover, wrench size 3/8".

4. Remove the rear vibration damper. Remove the flywheel. Loosen four bolts completely and two bolts
part way.

81

5. Pry off the flywheel, the partially loosened bolts will

act as stops. Remove the bolts and remove the flywheel.

6. Turn the engine and remove the oil dipstick pipe,

wrench sizes 21 mm and 9/16". Remove the oil pan.
Wrench sizes 3/8" and 1/2".

8. Remove the oil pump. Wrench size 5/8".

9. Measure the crankshaft axial clearance (end play)

Min. 0.05 mm (0.0020")
Max. 0.15 mm (0.0059")

7. Remove the crankshaft gear (only when replacing

drive or crankshaft or grinding the crankshaft). Use
puller 884528-1.
10. Measure the connecting rods axial clearance (side
play) on the crankshaft journal.
Min: 0.15 mm (0.0059")
Max: 0.36 mm (0.0142")

82

Pistons

Piston rings

11. Remove pistons and connecting rods. Each connecting rod and bearing cap should be marked, beginning from the engines timing gear end. Cylinder 1, 3
and 5 are located in the left hand cylinder block and
2, 4 and 6 in the right hand block (engine turned right
side up). Loosen the big end bearing cap, wrench
size 9/16". Press out the piston and connecting rod
through the cylinder. Use tool 884944-0 on the connecting rod bolts as protection and guide when pressing out.

13. Remove the piston rings using piston ring pliers.

Clean the piston ring grooves.

12. Place piston with connecting rods in order in a rack.

Measure the cylinder bores using a cylinder indicator.
Measuring for the greatest wear should be done immediately below the upper turning point and diagonally across the engine. Measuring for the smallest
wear is done at the lower turning point. For cylinder
bore, see Technical Data. Measure the pistons using a micrometer perpendicular to the piston pin hole
and approx. 6 mm (0.236") from the lower edge. For
piston diameter, see Technical Data.

14. Measure the new piston ring gaps using a feeler

gauge. Insert the ring approximately 6.5 mm (1/4")
into the cylinder in which it is going to be used. If necessary, increase the gap using a special file. The gap
should be:
Upper compression ring 0.25-0.76 mm (0.010-0.030")
Lower compression ring 0.25-0.89 mm (0.010-0.035")
Oil ring 0.38-1.65 mm (0.015-0.065")

83

15. Measure the piston ring clearance by first rolling the

piston rings in the groove. Measure the clearance in
several places using a feeler gauge.

18. Press in the wrist pin using tool 884682-6. The wrist
pin is interference fitted in the connecting rod by
0.02-0.04 mm (0.0008-0.0016").

The clearance should be:

Compression rings: 0.03-0.11 mm (0.0012-0.0042")
Oil ring: 0.05-0.20 mm (0.002-0.008")

16. Press out the wrist pin using tool 884682-6.

17. Clean the parts thoroughly and measure the wrist pin
using a micrometer and the wrist pin hole of the piston with an inside micrometer. If the combined clearance is more than 0.025 mm (0.0010"), the piston and
wrist pin should be replaced.

84

19. Install the piston rings. Use piston ring pliers. Start
with the oil ring. The compression ring marking
should face towards the top of the piston. Turn the
piston rings so that the gaps are spaced 120 apart
from each other.

Crankshaft seal

24. Check the connecting rod and main bearing journals.

Use a micrometer. Measure in several places around
the circumference and lengthwise. The out of round
for both big end and main bearing journals must not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.0010").
The taper must not exceed 0.025 mm (0.0010") on
any of the journals. If the measured values are near
or exceed the above, the crankshaft should be machined to the nearest undersize. See Technical
Data.

20. The rear crankshaft seal can be replaced after the flywheel housing and flywheel have been removed. Pry
out the seal using a screwdriver at the tabs shown in
the diagram.

If the engine is to be completely overhauled, refer to

point 187, page 149, Camshaft overhaul.

Assembly

21. Before installing the new crankshaft seal, it should be

lubricated with engine oil. Press in the crankshaft seal
until it bottoms.
Gasket for crankshaft seal housing
22. The crankshaft seal housing gasket can be replaced
after the flywheel housing, flywheel, oil pan and
crankshaft seal have been removed. When refitting
the seal holder tighten the bolts to 13-16 Nm (1.3-1.6
Kpm/9.5-11.7 lbf ft).

Crankshaft

23. Remove the crankshaft. Place the marked main bearing caps and bearing insert in the same order as they
were in the block.

25. Locate the main bearing inserts in the block and main
caps.
NOTE! The main bearing closest to the flywheel also
functions as a thrust bearing.

26. Lubricate the bearing inserts and install the crankshaft.

NOTE! Do not lubricate the backside of the bearing. If the
crankshaft has been machined, it must have been thoroughly washed and cleaned.

85

27. Lubricate the main bearing insert in the caps and install them according to the previous marking.
NOTE! The arrow marking points towards the front of
the engine.

30. Install the crankshaft seal housing with a new gasket,

tighten the bolts to 13-16 Nm (10-12 lbf.ft). Press in
the crankshaft seal until it bottoms. The seal should
be lubricated with engine oil.

28. Coat the bolt threads using Molykote or equivalent.

Torque the all the main bearing caps to 108 Nm (11
kpm/80 lbf.ft) except the rear one. The rear bearing
cap bolts shall be torqued to 14-16 Nm (1.4-1.6 kpm/
10-12 lbf.ft).

29. Using a lead mallet, carefully strike each end of the

crankshaft so that the crankshaft settles in place. First
move it backwards, and then forwards. Retorque all
the main bearing caps to 108 Nm (11 kpm/80 lbf.ft).

86

31. Fit the bearing shells in the connecting rod and caps.
Lubricate the cylinder bores, pistons and connecting
rod bearings with engine oil. Turn the crankshaft so
that the rod journal is the bottom position for the cylinder where the pistons will be installed. Fit the pistons
in their original cylinders according to the marking
done earlier. Screw tool 884944-0 onto the connecting rod bolts. Check that the marking on the piston is
facing the front of the engine and that the piston ring
gaps are 120 displaced from each other. Use a piston ring compressor and push the piston down into
the bore using a hammer handle.

32. Pull the connecting rod in place and remove the tool
884944-0. Fit the connecting rod caps according to
the markings. Lubricate the threads and tighten using
a torque wrench. Tightening torque; 61 Nm (6.2 kpm/
45 lbf.ft). Check that the crankshaft can be turned.

34. Replacing the oil strainer: Hold the pump in a vice,

using protective jaws. Reference or mark the angle of
the strainer. Remove the old strainer. Install the new
strainer using tool 884943-2.
Install the oil pump. Torque to 81-94 Nm (8.2-9.5 kpm/
60-69 lbf.ft). Wrench size 5/8".

Lubricating oil pump

Overhauling

35. Install the crankshaft gear. Use tool 884530-7.

36. Install the camshaft gear according to points 24-28,
chapter 5C.

33. Remove the oil pump cover (5). Mark the gear wheels
(3, 4), so that reassembly can be done with the same
tooth engagement. Remove the gears. Remove the
pressure relief valve. Knock out the lock pin (8) and
remove the spring (7) and piston (6). Do not remove
the oil strainer (10) unless it will be replaced. Clean
all parts and dry with compressed air. Check that the
pump housing is not worn or that the drive shaft has
no play due to wear. If the pump housing or the gear
wheels are worn, the entire pump should be replaced. Reassemble in the reverse order. The cover
(5) should be torqued to 9 Nm (0.9 kpm/6.6 lbf.ft).

37. Clean the oil pan gasket surfaces. Place the new gasket on the block. Put a small bead of sealing agent
(silicone, part no. 841261-1) on the corners of the oil
pan, see arrows.

87

38. Install the oil pan. Torque the bolts to 11 Nm (1.1 kpm/
8 lbf.ft) and the nuts to 22 Nm (2.2 kpm/16 lbf.ft).

Overhauling the flywheel housing

(13" flywheel) 430A, 431A
42. This flywheel housing is designed for a 13" flywheel.
The shaft is mounted in two ball bearings in the housing.

39. Install the flywheel. Coat the inside with an anti-rust

agent, Tectyl or equivalent. Lubricate the threads
and torque diagonally to 82 Nm (8.2 kpm/59 lbf.ft).
NOTE! Use a drift as a counterhold as shown in the
picture.

43. Inspect the flywheel housing and replace defective

parts. Press in and out bearings and seals using tools
884359-1, 884596-8 and 884599-2. Note how the
seals are fitted (what way they are facing) before removal. Remove in the following order:

40. Install the rear vibration damper.

Remove seal (1) and the retainer rings (3) and (4).
Press the primary shaft (2) together with the bearing
(5). Remove the retaining ring (6) before pressing the
bearing off the primary shaft. Thereafter, remove the
seal (9) and retainer ring (8). Bearing (7) can then be
pressed out.
Assemble in the following order:
Press on front bearing (7) and fit the retainer ring (8).
Press the rear bearing (5) onto the primary shaft and
secure with retainer ring (6). Press in the primary
shaft into the flywheel housing and install retainer
rings (4) and (3). Install a new seal ring (9).
NOTE! Carefully grease the seals before they are installed. Turn the seals the correct way when installing.

41. Install the front vibration damper. Apply a thin coat of

oil to the journal and the vibration dampers contact
surface against the sealing ring. Use tool 884608-1.
Hold still by inserting a screwdriver in the flywheel
ring gear.

88

Fill the space marked A with water resistant bearing

grease. Replace the plug (10) with a grease nipple.
Use a grease gun and force grease out through the
rear bearing (4). Install a new seal ring (1).
NOTE! Install it with the opening facing outwards.

Overhauling the flywheel housing

(14" flywheel)
430B, 431B, 432A, 434A
44. This flywheel housing is designed for a 14" flywheel.
The shaft is mounted in a ball bearing in the housing
and in a sliding bearing in the crankshaft.

Put on the new sealing ring (5) using special tool no.
884838.
NOTE! The seal should be fitted with the opening facing
outwards.
Push a new bearing onto the shaft. Use special tool
884596. Put on the circlip (6). Fill cavity (A), between the
bearing and the sealing ring, with water-resistant ball
bearing grease.
Fit the shaft in the flywheel casing. Use special tool no.
884596 and push the shaft into position. Ensure that the
circlip (6) abuts against the groove in the tool. Put on the
circlips (2). Fill the cavity (B) with water-resistant ball
bearing grease. Fit a new outer seal (1) using special tool
884359.
NOTE! The opening on the sealing ring should face outwards.

45. Inspect the flywheel housing and replace any faulty

parts. Bearings and seals are pushed in and out using special tools 884838, 884596 and 884359. Note
how the sealing rings are fitted (the direction in which
they are turned) before removing them.
Dismantle in the following order:
Remove the seal (1) and the circlips (2). Push out the
shaft (3) and the bearing (4) using a rubber mallet. Then
remove the seal (5), followed by the circlip (6). Push the
bearing off the shaft.

46. Coat the exposed portions of the primary shaft with

rust inhibitor before installing the flywheel housing.
Lubricate the bolts and install the flywheel housing.
Torque to 41 Nm (4.1 kpm/30 lbf.ft). Wrench size
9/16".

Fit in the following order:

47. Install the protection plate to the flywheel housing.

Wrench size 5/16".

89

90

Chapter 5C Engine block

Overhauling the camshaft
Removal
1. Remove the related parts according to 4B, remove
the valve system acc. to 4D steps 1-2. The cylinder
heads do not need to be removed.
2. Remove the circulation pump and the sea water
pump bracket. Wrench size 9/16".
3. Remove the sea water pump, Allen key 5/16".

6. Remove the timing gear casing, wrench size, 3/8".

4. Remove the belt pulley, wrench 5/8".

5. Remove the vibration damper, use puller 884608-1.

7. Check the chain and chain gear wear. Tighten one

end of the cam chain by turning the crankshaft or
camshaft. Measure the distance from a reference
point on the engine block to the tensioned chains
outer edge midway between the chain gears. Tighten
the cam chains other end and measure again from
the same reference point. The slackness should be
max. 9.5 mm (0.374") at the chains midway point.
8. Remove the cam chain gear and the chain. Wrench
size 1/2".

91

Replacing the camshaft bearings

15. Remove oil pan, flywheel housing, rear vibration
damper, flywheel and crankshaft. The main bearings
can be replaced with the engine completely or partly
disassembled. If cylinder head and pistons are not removed, the connecting rod bolts should be taped to
prevent damage to the crankshaft. Tape also the connecting rods to the engine sides to keep them out of
the way when replacing bearings.

9. 430A/431A (mech. fuel pump): Remove the fuel

pump. Wrench size 17 mm for the fuel pipe, 1/2" for
the pump bolt.
10. 430A/431A (mech. fuel pump): Remove the intermediate piece and pull out the push rod. Wrench size
3/8".

16. Tap out the camshaft plug; use a wooden stick or similar with a dia. of approx. 45 mm (1.772") and 500 mm
(19.685") length.
17. Install tool 884628-9. Press out the two middle bearings first.

11. Carefully pull out the camshaft. Be careful not to damage the camshaft bearing surfaces in the block. Removal is made easier if two long 5/16" bolts are
screwed into the camshaft and used as a handle.
12. Check the camshaft bearing journals using a micrometer. If they are out of round by more than 0.025 mm
(0.0010"), the camshaft must be replaced. Also check
the camshaft for straightness. If the run out is more
than 0.038 mm (0.0015"), the camshaft must be replaced.
13. Check the cams lift height. It should be 5.94 mm
(0.234") for the intake valve and 6.53 mm (0.257") for
the exhaust valve. Tolerance for the lift height = 0.05
mm (0.0020").
14. Inspect the camshaft bearings in the block for wear.
Replace if necessary.

92

18. When removing the front and rear camshaft bearings,

the puller and drift should be used that included in
884628-9.

Installing camshaft bearings

19. Install the front and rear bearings using the puller and
drift included in tool 884628-9.
NOTE! The camshaft bearings should be installed
with the oil holes located as per Fig. 20.

22. Install a new camshaft plug, seal with Permatex or

equivalent. Fit the plug flush or max. 0.80 mm (0.030")
deeper than the end surface. Fit the crankshaft, flywheel and rear vibration damper.

20. Installation positions for camshaft bearing oil holes.

The diagram shows the engine turned the right side
up seen from the front, (camshaft timing gear side).
The front bearing has two oil holes, other bearings,
one.

21. Install the two middle bearings using tool 884628-9

with the oil hole position as per Fig. 20. Remove the
tool and check that all oil holes are aligned correctly.

93

Installing the camshaft

26. Replace the timing gear cover seal. The seal is removed from the front using a large screwdriver.
NOTE! Be careful not to damage the cover.

23. Oil the camshaft bearing surfaces with engine oil and
install the camshaft. Be careful not to damage the
camshaft bearings.
NOTE! If a new camshaft is installed, all the cam
lobes should be coated with Molykote or equivalent.
When installing a new camshaft, all new valve lifters
should also be installed, see Chapter 4D.

Install a new seal using tool 884529-9; support with a

wooden block when installing.
NOTE! The seal should be installed with the lip facing
inward.

27. Clean the gasket surfaces on the engine block and

timing cover. Place a 3 mm (1/8") bead of silicone
sealer on the joints, see arrows.

24. Fit the cam gear with the chain loose. Turn cam and
crankshaft so that their markings coincide with each
other. Check using a ruler.
25. Screw on the cam chain gear. Tighten to 24 Nm (2.4
kpm/17.3 lbf.ft). Wrench size 1/2". Lubricate the cam
chain with engine oil.

28. Brush the gasket with a sealer and place it on the

cover. Lubricate the oil pan gasket upper edge with a
little engine oil and install the timing cover. Tightening
torque 14 Nm (1.4 kpm/10 lbf.ft), socket size 3/8"

94

29. Install the oil pan using a new gasket. Lubricate the
oil pan gaskets upper side with a little engine oil
(sealing surface towards the timing gear casing).
Torque the bolts to 11 Nm (1,1 kpm/7.8 ft lbf.ft) and
the nuts to 22 Nm (2.2 kpm/115.6 lbf.ft). Refer to point
37, chapter 5B for installation of the oil pan.

32. Install the belt pulley bolt. Tighten to 82 Nm (8.2 kpm/

59 lbf.ft). Wrench size 5/8".
33. Install the cylinder heads according to chapter 4E,
page 67. Install the sea water pump, Allen key 5/16",
and the pump bracket, wrench size 14 mm.
Install the circulation pump, wrench size 14 mm.

30. Fit the vibration damper. Apply a thin coating of oil to

the bearing journal and on the vibration dampers
contact surface against the sealing ring. Use tool
884608-1.

31. 430A, 431A: Lubricate the fuel pump push rod and
install it together with the mounting plate and gasket,
wrench size 3/8". Install the fuel pump, wrench size 3/
8". Fit the fuel line, wrench size 17 mm.

95

96

Chapter 5D Engine block

Overhauling the balance shaft,
432A, 434A

3. Remove the two screws (TX30) for the bearing retainer. Knock out the balance shaft using a plastic mallet.
1. The engines have been provided with a balance shaft
for operation with fewer vibrations. The balance shaft
is built into the engine block between the rows of cylinders and is driven by the camshaft using a gear
wheel at the front of the engine. The balance shaft
runs at the same speed as the crankshaft. As the
camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft,
the gear ratio is 1:2. The balance shaft is mounted in
a roller bearing at the back and in a ball bearing at
the transmission.

Removal
2. Remove additional parts as described in chapter 4B.
Remove the cooling water hoses from the water
pump. Remove the water pump and the transmission
cover.

4. Fit the balance shaft in a vice.

NOTE! Use protective pads.
Remove the screws (TX12) for the balance shaft
drive. Remove the drive from the shaft and pull off the
bearing using a standard tool.

97

5. Knock out the expansion plug from the inside of the

engine. Use a drift suitable for the purpose.
NOTE! Note the position of the bearing bushing in the
engine block (same position as when fitting). Knock
out the bearing bushing using drift no. 9998113.
Check the bearings, bearing bushing, drive and balance shaft for any wear.

Fitting
6. Oil the bearing bushing with engine oil and fit it using
drift no. 9998113.
NOTE! Ensure that the bushing is positioned correctly
in the engine block.
7. Spread Permatex on the sealing cover. Knock the
cover into the engine block using a drift suitable for
the purpose.

8. Push the bearing onto the balance shaft. Slip the

bearing retainer onto the shaft. Fit the drive on the
shaft (TX12) using Volvo Penta 1161053-2 or Loctite
242. Tighten to a torque of 20 Nm (2.00 kpm/14.8
ft.lb.) + 35.

98

9. Fit the balance shaft in the engine block. Turn the balance shaft and camshaft so that the markings on the
drives face each other. Tighten the screws (TX30) of
the bearing retainer. Use Volvo Penta 1161053-2 or
Loctite 242. Tighten the screws to a torque of 14 Nm
(1.40 kpm/10.36 ft.lb.).

Chapter 5E Engine block

Fault-tracing and repair,
ignition system
430A/B, 431A/B

Prestolite
Electronic ignition system
430A/B, 431A/B
Description
2. The system is a breakerless transistorized ignition system that provides very stable and accurate ignition
timing. The electronic module is not affected by moisture, extreme temperatures or vibration. It is also protected from excessive voltage and reversed polarity.
The system is independent of engine speed and functions at all speeds above 0 rpm. Few components
and a simple fault-tracing makes it very easy to service.

Function
3. The system construction and external appearance is
that of a traditional ignition system with an ignition
coil and distributor. The distributor has been changed
so that the breaker points and the condenser have
been replaced by an electronic module.
4. The ignition coil has a high voltage output and is
matched to the electronic module. A ballast resistor is
not used. The impulse sender is in the form of a
toothed wheel with 6 teeth that corresponds to the
cam on the distributor shaft for breaker point systems.
1. Ignition system
1.
2.
3.
4.
6.
7.
8.
11.
13.
14.
15.
18.
19.

Oil pressure gauge

Temperature gauge
Voltmeter
Rev counter
Key switch
Switch, instrument lighting
Fuse, 8 Amp slow-action
Starter motor
Circuit breaker
Main battery switch (accessory)
Battery
Distributor
Ignition coil

Wire sizes
AWG mm2
16 1.5
10 6.0
Cable colors
SB = Black
PU = Purple
R = Red

5. A sensor is mounted next to the impulse sender,

which records the presence or absence of teeth. The
sensor functions as a metal detector. The electronic
module sends a current to a fine wire coil in the sensor. The coil functions as an oscillator that creates a
magnetic field. The field is affected by the presence of
the teeth of the impulse sender. Each pulse, or interference, that the impulse sender creates in the magnetic field causes a transistor to electrically close or
open the primary voltage to the ignition coil, performing the same function as breaker points.

99

Cleaning

6. When a tooth is right opposite the sensor and the

magnetic field is disturbed a low frequency current is
sent to the electronic module. The transistor is in the
off position and no current flows to the ignition coil.
This corresponds to breaker points being open.

7. When there is a gap right opposite the sensor, the

magnetic field is not disturbed by the presence of
metal and a high frequency current is sent to the electronic module. The transistor is in on position, providing primary voltage to the ignition coil. This position corresponds to breaker points being closed. The
ignition advance is controlled by centrifugal weights
and the dwell angle is determined by the air gap between the sensor and the impulse sender.

100

8. Before starting any fault-tracing, all components in the

ignition system must be thoroughly cleaned. Use a
mild degreasing agent or special purpose cleaner.
Dry the ignition coil, ignition wires and distributor. The
distributor cap should also be dried on the inside.

9. Inspect the ignition wires, one at a time and inspect

the contact points for pitting, etc. Use a
moisture-repelling spray such as Volvo Universal oil
part No. 1161398-1 or equivalent. Clean the spark
plug insulators. Clean the primary wiring in the same
way.

Fault-tracing

15. Spark plugs

10. Fault-tracing is carried out in two steps: Fault-tracing

the secondary circuit (high voltage)

Check the spark plugs for wear and deposit build up.
Make sure that the insulator is not cracked.

Fault-tracing in the primary circuit (low voltage)

Always start the fault-tracing in the secondary circuit.

16. Start the engine

Trouble in the ignition system often occurs due to several different reasons. Do not stop the fault-tracing
when one cause of the trouble has been found! The
entire fault-tracing procedure must be followed.

If the engine starts and runs smoothly, there is no need to

continue the fault-tracing.

WARNING! In case of trouble in the high voltage

secondary circuit arcing and sparks can occur. Before starting to work, make sure that there is no fuel
or gas leakage. Ventilate the boat and run the engine room blower (if fitted) 2-3 minutes before commencing work.
WARNING! The high voltage secondary circuit produces a voltage of more than 10000 V. It is very
dangerous to come in contact with any of these
high voltage components. The ignition must be
switched off when working with the high voltage
circuit, and should only be switched on when performing function tests.
17. Engine does not start

Fault-tracing the secondary circuit

(high voltage circuit)
11. The secondary circuit fault-tracing includes:
ignition coil
distributor cap
rotor
ignition cables
spark plugs
12. Ignition coil
Check that the coil is dry and clean. Make sure that there
are no cracks in the top of the ignition coil. Inspect the
condition of the ignition wire connections and insulation.
Check that the primary wires are connected correctly and
are making good contact. Install the circulation pump,
wrench size 14 mm.

Connect the inductive sender for a timing light around the

ignition wire between the ignition coil and distributor.
Connect the light to the power source. Have someone
crank the engine with starter motor. Check if the light
starts to flash. If so, the primary circuit (low voltage) is
working correctly.
18. Timing light does not flash; carry out points 13-15
again. Also make sure that the starting difficulty is not
due to a problem in the fuel system or that the ignition
timing has been altered. For ignition setting please
refer to point 35.

13. Distributor cap and rotor

Make sure that the parts are clean and dry, and that there
are no cracks. Replace even if there is the smallest crack
or if the contact points are heavily corroded or burnt.
14. Ignition wires
Make sure that the ignition wires are clean and dry.
Check that there is good electrical contact and that the
insulation is not damaged. Be extra careful when inspecting the coil wire. The resistance of the ignition wires
should be 0 W, test using an ohm meter.

19. If the timing light still does not flash, remove the distributor cap and rotor. Rotate the engine so that one
of the impulse sender teeth stop right opposite the
sensor. Check that the distributor shaft is not bent.
Check the air gap between the impulse sender and
sensor. The distance should be 0.20-0.25 mm
(0.0078-0.0098"). Adjust if necessary.

101

20. Re-fit the distributor cap. Repeat point 17. If the timing
light still does not flash, the primary circuit voltage
should be measured with voltmeter.

Fault-tracing in the primary circuit

(low voltage)

23. Measuring the voltage in the primary circuit

21. Troubleshooting of the primary circuit includes:

battery
supply circuit battery-ignition coil
check of ignition coil resistance
check of electronic module

Rotate the engine so that the sensor lines up between

two teeth on the impulse sender, corresponding to the
breaker points being closed. Turn the starter key to the
ignition position. The primary circuit is now engaged. The
value V-1 should be between 12 and 13 V. If lower,
charge the battery. Should the battery seem to be in poor
condition, a more thorough battery test should be carried
out and the battery replaced if necessary.
NOTE! Always carry out a voltage drop test according to
points 31-34, even if the problem has been found.

24. Connect the voltmeter between the ignition coil + connection and ground. This voltage (V-2) should be
max. 1 V lower than V-1. Normally 0.5 V lower value.
25. If V-2 has a lower value, the reason for the voltage
drop must be found, refer to points 31-34.
22. Make sure that the battery connections are clean and
making good contact. Clean and grease with an electrically conductive grease, e.g. CRCs copper paste or
similar. If the battery seems to be in poor condition,
carry out a thorough battery test and replace the battery if necessary.

26. Connect the voltmeter between the ignition coil connection and ground. This voltage V-3 should be between 4 and 8 V. If less than 4 V see point 29. If
more than 8 V, carry on according to point 30.

102

29. V-3 shows less than 4 V. Remove the connection

from the coil connection and connect only the voltmeter to the connection.
If the voltmeter now shows 12-13 V, it indicates that
the ignition coil is not at fault and that there is a short
circuit in the electronic module. If the same value is
obtained, it indicates a faulty coil. There is an open
circuit in the primary winding. Replace the coil.
27. Now place a screwdriver in the opening in front of the
sensor. V-3 should now read between 12 and 13 V.
Should the voltmeter show correct values, although
the ignition is not functioning, this indicates a fault in
tie ignition coil. Test the coil by measuring the resistance between + and connections (R2) in the primary circuit. The resistance should be 1.25-1.4 W at
20C (68F). Then measure the resistance of the secondary circuit (R1). It should be 9.4-11.7 kW at 20C
(68F). If necessary, replace the ignition coil.
NOTE! Remove the ignition coil connections when
measuring.

30. V-3 is more than 8 V, typically 12-13 V, the same as

for the coil + connection. This indicates poor or no
connection to ground between the distributor and engine block. Such a fault is unusual, however. Check
the distributor ground connection. If there is no fault
there, replace the electronic module.
31. Voltage drop supply circuit battery to ignition coil
A poor connection in this circuit leads to voltage drop to
the ignition coil. This voltage drop often results in intermittent ignition failure, irregular ignition, backfiring, etc.
28. Connect the timing light according to point 17. Install
the distributor cap and rotor. Turn the engine. If the
timing light does not light, there is also a fault in the
electronic module. Replace the electronic module.

103

Ignition timing

32. Rotate the engine so that the sensor stops right between two teeth on the impulse sender.

35. Check the ignition timing using a stroboscopic timing

light on the vibration damper.
NOTE! A workshop rev counter should be used for ignition timing, not the boat instruments.
The setting should be:
430A/B:
8 B.T.D.C. at 1800 rpm
21 B.T.D.C. at 3300 rpm
431A/B:
8 B.T.D.C. at 750 rpm (idling)
16 B.T.D.C. at 2500 rpm

33. Connect the + side of a voltmeter to the battery + connection and the voltmeter - side to the ignition coil +
connection. With the ignition switch on, the voltage
V-4 should be less than 1 V, typically 1/2 V. Do not
stop the test if the value is correct.
34. Look for poor contact by moving the wire connections
at the battery, starter motor, solenoid, harness connections, starter key and ignition coil. Should a contact point change the voltmeter reading when this is
carried out, the connection must be removed and the
faulty connection corrected.

WARNING! Sparking might occur, so make sure

that the boat is properly ventilated.

104

Delco Voyager
Electronic Ignition System
432A, 434A

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Distributor cap
Rotor
Pulse generator
Coil
Electronic unit
Timing shaft
Ignition coil
Power supply connection, tachometer connection
Ignition leads (6)
See also the wiring diagram for the 432A/434A

Description and function

36. The ignition system is a breakerless, electronic high
energy system (HEI) with a magnetic induction sensor
(pulse generator), a distributor with a rotor, an electronic unit and a dry-type ignition coil. It is characterized by the fact that is has few components, and it has
precise and stable timing. The electronics are protected against moisture, insensitive to extreme temperatures, shaking and vibration.
The cams and points on the timing shaft have been
replaced by a magnetic pulse generator. The system
operates independently of the engine speed.
Pre-ignition is regulated automatically in the electronic unit,
The pulse generator consists of a rotating solenoid
with 6 teeth. There is a fixed solenoid around the rotating solenoid. The fixed solenoid also has 6 teeth
(corresponding to the cams on the timing shaft in a
system with breaker points). Inside the fixed solenoid
is a fine wire coil, which is molded in plastic.

When the solenoid rotates, a voltage is induced in the

coil. This voltage is affected by the position of the solenoid teeth in relation to one another. When the teeth
are directly opposite one another, the voltage is 0. We
get a pulsating voltage with alternating polarity. In
turn, the voltage makes a transistor in the electronic
unit make and break the circuit of the primary current
to the ignition coil. In this way, we get a precise electrical pulse which controls the primary current in the
ignition system. In other words, the coil, teeth and
transistor fulfil the same function as the points in a
conventional ignition system.
The electronic unit has a number of integral circuits
comprising transistors, resistors, diodes and capacitors. In addition, there is a current-limiting circuit
which regulates the primary current to the ignition coil
to a maximum of 5.5 Amp. No ignition resistance units
are required, and the electronic unit can thus operate
at maximum power.
Pre-ignition is regulated fully automatically and electronically in the electronic unit.

105

Ignition timing

Troubleshooting

37. If the distributor has been removed, the crankshaft position should be checked and the distributor fitted in
accordance with the section entitled B. Ignition unsynchronized, point 57.

41. Ignition leads

When setting the ignition timing, the following are required:

Check that the ignition leads are clean and dry. Check
that there is good electrical contact and that the insulation
is not damaged. Take special care when inspecting the
lead from the ignition coil (an engine can quite easily run
under normal conditions, but it may not start if there is
tracking on the ignition leads).

special tool no. 885163-6, connector for basic setting

(disconnects pre-ignition regulation)

The resistance in the ignitions leads should be 0 ohm.

Check this using an ohmmeter.

stroboscope and inductive sensor (ignition timing

lamp)

42. Spark plugs

workshop tachometer.

Check that the spark plugs are clean and that the electrodes are not worn. Also check that the insulator is not
cracked.
43. Distributor cap and rotor
Check that the parts are clean and dry and that there are
no cracks. Replace any parts that are even slightly
cracked or if the points of contact are heavily corroded or
burned.
44. Checking B+ (12 Volt), ignition coil

38. Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Connect the ignition timing
lamp, with the lamps sensor around the ignition lead
to No. 1 cylinder. Connect up the workshop tachometer. The engine should be idling. Remove the blind
plug (1) and connect connector no. 885163.
39. Connect the connectors crocodile clip to the batterys
+ terminal, for example B+ on the starter motor. The
pre-ignition function will stop when this is connected.
The engine speed will probably then decrease.

IMPORTANT! The engine must be running when

the crocodile clip is connected to the + terminal.
Otherwise the ignition systems electronics may
be damaged.
Iignition timing: 0 BTDC at 750 r/min.
40. Slightly undo the distributor clamp in the engine block
and turn the distributor so that the engine timing is
correct. Tighten the clamp.
Tightening torque: 27 Nm (2.70 kpm/19.98 ft.lb.).
Recheck the ignition after tightening.

106

Remove the connector and leads from the tachometer/

ignition lock (gray/mauve) from the ignition coil. Connect
a voltmeter, with its positive (+) connected to the pin for
the mauve lead and its negative () to ground.
Start the ignition. The voltmeter should display a value of
at least 8 Volt.

45. Checking B+ (12 Volt), distributor

47. Distributor
Remove the distributor cap, rotor and connector from the
coil. Check the coil by connecting an ohmmeter to it as
described in points 4 5. Also check the leads for breaks
by bending and twisting them while measuring.

Connect the gray/mauve lead to the ignition coil. Remove

the connector with brown/light red leads from the distributor. Connect a voltmeter, + to the pin for the light red lead
and to ground.
Start the ignition.
The voltmeter should display a value of at least 8 Volt.
46. Ignition coil
Check the ignition coil for short-circuiting or breaks using
an ohmmeter. Check this by measuring the resistance
three times. Connect the ohmmeter as described in
points 1 3 below.

4. The ohmmeter should always display an infinitely

high resistance. If this is not the case, the coil is faulty
and should be replaced.
5. The ohmmeter should display a stable value of between 700 and 900 ohm, even when the leads are
bent or twisted. If the resistance changes, there is a
fault in the leads or in the coil.
NOTE! It is normal for the resistance to change when
the rotor shaft is turned.
48. Electronic unit
The electronic unit shows only two symptoms of faults: no
spark at the plugs, or pre-ignition inoperative.
NOTE! When replacing the electronic unit, the contact
surface with engine should be cleaned extremely carefully. Afterwards, grease the surface with silicone grease or
with heat transfer paste designed for electronic components, Volvo Penta part no. 3851513-6.

1. The ohmmeter should display a very high resistance

(infinite). Replace the coil if the value is incorrect.
2. The ohmmeter should display a very low resistance of
0.35-0.45 ohm. Replace the coil if the value is incorrect.
3. The ohmmeter should display a high, but not infinite,
resistance, (7500-9000 ohm). Replace the coil if the
value is incorrect.

107

Replacing components, removal

51. Drive

49. Distributor
Remove the high tension lead from the ignition coil and
the contact piece from the electronic unit. Turn the crankshaft so that No. 1 cylinder is in the ignition position (both
valves are fully closed).

Mark the position of the drive in relationship to the shaft

so that it is replaced in the same position as before.
Knock out the locking pin using a drift (diam. 4.5 mm/
0.18") and pull off the drive, washer and star washer.

Remove the distributor cap. Note the position of the rotor

and mark this position on the distributor.
Also mark the distributors position in relation to the engine block in order to place it in the correct position when
fitting it. If the engines crankshaft has changed position
while the distributor is not connected, the ignition must be
completely reset as described in the section entitled B.
Ignition unsynchronized, point 57.

Fitting
52. Electronic unit

Remove the distributor clamp (1) and pull the distributor

out of the engine. Remove the gasket. Pull the rotor off
the timing shaft.
50. Electronic unit
Remove the leads from the coil. Remove the screws and
the electronic unit. The unit may sometimes get stuck in
the distributor and have to be prised out.
IMPORTANT! Remove all heat transfer paste from the
electronic unit and the distributor. Clean the contact surfaces carefully.
Ensure that the contact surfaces between the electronic
unit and the distributor are clean. Spread heat transfer
paste such as silicone grease, Volvo Penta part no.
3851513-6 on the electronic unit.
NOTE! Heat transfer paste or silicone grease is necessary to prevent the electronic unit from overheating.
Fit the unit to the distributor.

108

53. Drive

55. Distributor
56. A. Ignition synchronized
(The crankshaft/valves have remained in the same position while the distributor was removed.)
There are markings for the rotor distributor casing and
distributor engine block.)
Turn the rotor approximately 60 counterclockwise in relation to the rotor distributor casing markings.

Fit the star washer, washer and drive on the timing shaft.
NOTE! Note the drive shaft markings.
Knock the locking pin into the shaft.
54. Rotor
Push the rotor firmly onto the timing shaft.
NOTE! Note the rotor distributor casing markings.

Place a new gasket over the hole in the engine block. Put
the distributor into the engine and ensure that it is positioned correctly.
NOTE! The rotor may need to be turned slightly in order
to position the distributor correctly. Ensure that the distributor engine housing markings are aligned.
Fit the distributor clamp. The screws should be tightened
only to the extent that the distributor can be turned, with a
little resistance.
Connect the leads from the ignition coil.
Grease all the terminals in the distributor cap. Fit the distributor cap. Tighten the screws. Connect the leads to the
ignition coil and spark plugs.
See the section entitled Ignition timing, point 37-40.

109

57. B. Ignition unsynchronized

(The crankshaft/valves have not remained in the same
position while the distributor was removed.)
This method is also used when no markings have been
made between the rotor and distributor casing and distributor and engine block.
Place No. 1 cylinder in the ignition position (both valves
are fully closed) and ensure that the 0 marking on the
vibration damper is directly opposite the marking on the
engine block. No. 1 cylinder is now in the ignition position.

Fit the distributor and a new gasket in the engine. When

the distributor is in place, the rotor should be in the firing
position for No. 1 cylinder see figure. If you find it difficult to position the distributor correctly, press down gently
on the distributor cap and rotate the crankshaft at the
same time. Put the clamp on when the distributor is in the
correct position. The clamp screw should be tightened
only to the extent that the distributor can be turned, with a
little resistance.
Fit the distributor cap. Turn the distributor in the engine
block so that the rotor is in contact with the terminal for
No. 1 cylinder (spark plug). Tighten the distributor clamp.
Check all the high tension leads and connect the ignition
leads. Ensure that these leads are connected in the correct order.
Connect the lead from the ignition coil to the electronic
unit.
Then continue with the section entitled Ignition timing,
point 37 40.
WARNING! Before starting the engine, ensure that
no gasoline fumes can be detected on board and
that the boat is sufficiently well ventilated.

110

Chapter 5F Engine block

Installation of related parts

1. Install the flywheel housing. Lubricate the bolts and

torque to 41 Nm (4.2 kpm/30 lbf.ft). Wrench size 9/16".

4. Install the circulation pump using new gaskets.

Wrench size 9/16".
5. Install the belt pulley, socket size 5/8".

2. Install the protection plate to the flywheel housing.

Wrench size 5/16".
6. 430A, 431A: Install the fuel pump using new gaskets
on both sides of the metal mounting plate. Grease the
push rod to hold it in place while installing. Wrench
size, 1/2" for the pump and 3/8" for the metal mounting plate.
7. Install the sea water pump, 5/16" Allen wrench. Install
with rubber dampers, large washer, spring washer
and bolts.

3. Install the starter motor. Wrench size 9/16".

111

References to Service Bulletins

Group

No.

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112

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Refers to publication: .............................................................................................................................................

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AB Volvo Penta
Customer Support
Dept. 42200
SE-405 08 Gothenburg
Sweden

7732808-6 English 102000