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Summary
2007 2012
Luxury is an entirely subjective concept. What is
luxury for one person is taken for granted by
Homes & Fashion/ Homes Fashion/
another. The underlying consumer segments others clothing & others clothing
Accessories Accessories
vary accordingly in the definitions used by the 10.0 10.1
44.3 41.9
market researchers and corporate consultants. 11.1 12.1
1
Luxury market
Experts believe that the German market for luxu Fashion &
accessories
+12 +++
the largest share of German tax-free sales. China, Japan 3.1 -33.2%
Korea and the United Arab Emirates also saw a
Source: German Central Tourist Office/Global Refund 2008 l_06e
share increase.
2
Luxury market
in their brand value − in some cases a consider Hermès (73) 4.3 +10%
able one − in 2007. The best known and biggest Tiffany & Co. (79) 4.0 +5%
luxury brand is Louis Vuitton. It consolidated its Cartier (83) 3.9 +15%
seventeenth place in the global league table of Prada (94) 3.3 +14%
the 100 best brands with a considerable increase Burberry (95) 3.2 +16%
of 15 percent in its brand value. Chanel, Hermès, Polo Ralph Lauren* (99) 3.0 n.a.
French and Italian names dominate the market Volume: EUR 138 billion* (~270 brands)
1.66 billion for 2007. Many groups cover a number * Fiscal year 2007/08 (to 31st March 2008)
of luxury segments at the same time; others ** Conversion based on average exchange rate for the fiscal year (Deutsche Bundesbank)
*** Fiscal year 2007/08 (to 3rd February 2008)
Source: FAZ/company information/Textilwirtschaft/own research l_14 e
concentrate on just a few areas.
3
Fashion & accessories
bathing wear
of the weather. Thus, over the first four months
of 2008, outdoor jackets saw increased sales −
and, for women, overcoats too. Frocks and suits Source: Textilwirtschaft magazine l_10e
went well.
Attitudes to fashion
Luxury is a matter of attitude
(in %)
Quality and price must be right. Then
I don’t consider the brand so important 65
Purchasing behaviour among the Germans varies I pay particular attention to my external
appearance; I consider a well-groomed 60
when it comes to fashion, as in other areas of appearance to be important
more expensive. They like to save, but like to When buying clothes I look for
brands I know already 35
treat themselves occasionally, too. Moreover, When I buy a well-known brand I can
30
be sure I am not going entirely wrong
more and more people have the financial means
I prefer to buy one high-quality item
29
to do this, whether for economic or demographic of clothing rather than two cheaper ones.
reasons. This can also be seen in their attitudes I consider it personally important
to be always dressed fashionably. 26
Luxury Luxury
(main de- 26 (main de- 22
signer lines) signer lines)
This could be seen as regards women’s wear, for
example, in a survey of traders by Textilwirtschaft
magazine at the start of 2007. This survey re Premium 100 Premium 71
4
Fashion & accessories
+1.8
Good prospects for the
German fashion industry +1.3
Production -9.6
-1.5
by looking at the top brands and providers from Source: Textilwirtschaft magazine l_14e
and Dolce & Gabbana; French brands such as *Excluding German companies; **Business year 2006-2007; ***Estimate; 1) Wholesalers without own retail outlets
Source: Textilwirtschaft magazine l_14e
Louis Vuitton, Lacoste and Yves Saint Laurent.
5
Fashion & accessories
group for accessories, even if men are likewise * I agree completely: “I prefer to buy one high-quality item of clothing rather than two cheaper ones”
** I agree completely: “I mainly buy exclusive brands”
discovering expensive bags, belts and shoes. Source: Communication Networks 11.1 Trend l_16e
High-quality accessories Retail trade with shoes Retail trade with leatherwear
111.3 110.5
106.0 105.8
100.0 102.6 100.0
This increasing enthusiasm for accessories can
also be seen in the sales figures. According to
information from the German Statistical Office,
sales of shoes and leatherwear grew by some 13
percent from 2003 to 2007. Specialist outlets for
leather goods saw a particular rise in sales. The n.a.
association of leatherwear retailers (BLE) esti 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007
mates the market volume of leather goods for * In constant prices; 2003 = 100
Source: German Statistical Office / Status: 23 June 2008 l_17e
6
Watches & jewellery
12.7
11.4
Swiss watches are a constant factor in the inter 10.1
9.7
9.3
national luxury market. The Swiss watch manu 25.9
26.7
facturers can look back on a long tradition, use 24.4 24.9 24.4 24.9
of sales in 2007. In 2004 the share had been * Estimated on basis of businesses with 20 employees or more, with 50 employees or more from 2007
** Estimated on basis of 9 months
Source: German Jewellery and Watch Association, German Statistical Office l_20e
only 25 percent.
7
Watches & jewellery
Europe recorded a particular rise. In all, German * Estimated on basis of business with 20 employees and above, from 2007 with 50 employees and above
** Estimated on the basis of 9 months
jewellery manufacturers delivered 70% of their Source: German Association for Jewellery & Watches, German Statistical Office l_21e
8
Fragrances & cosmetics
1.551 1.565
Aveda
The return to quality and to brands shown by Jean Paul Gaultier
consumers is instilling confidence into the repre Bobbi Brown
Chanel
sentatives of luxury cosmetics organised in the Clarins
Clinique
VKE (Association of Cosmetic Product Distribu Dior
tors). For the approximately 50 manufacturers of Estée Lauder
Givenchy
medium-range and higher-priced products, how Guerlain
Kenzo
ever, 2007 was no more than a middling year. Lancaster
They saw sales increase by only 0.9 percent, to Lancôme
Helena Rubinstein
EUR 1.565 billion. The manufacturers are cau Shiseido
tiously optimistic about 2008: the association 2006 2007 YSL Beauté
Source: VKE-Kosmetikverband (VKE Cosmetics Association) l_63 e
anticipates a two-percent growth in sales.
9
Advertising market
Advertising for fashion on the rise Total market for fashion and accessories
Course of advertising budgets (in EUR million)
543.9 Range advertising textiles
530.5
The gross volume of advertising for fashion and 525.1
7%
and clothing
Corporate publicity and
2%
3% 1%3% image advertising
4%
accessories rose in 2007 by three percent, to 458.4 1%
5% Leather goods and accessories
2%4% 16% Shoes
19%
stand at EUR 544 million. This growth was gen 4%
16% Underwear and hosiery
Clothing
14%
erated less by the individual fashion segments, 5%
5% 5%
vehicles in the publicity market for fashion and Source: Nielsen Media Research (gross advertising expenditure) l_27e
106.4
tising, over the last few years budgets have in 2%
3%
89.1
creased dramatically. Advertising is determined 1%
2%
11%
3%
primarily by the watch manufacturers, who ac 1%
8%
2%
2%
count for about two-thirds of all revenues. Jewel
lery manufacturers account for about a quarter
62%
of overall expenditure; the rest goes on range 66% 37.3
29.5 2%
advertising, trade advertising, and accessories. 2%
4%
3%
2%
5%
4%
Advertising for several product families in one 65%
72%
motif has taken off over the last two years: many 19% 20%
21% 18%
watch brands are now also putting their own 2006 2007 Jan.–May 2007 Jan.–May 2008
jewellery collections on the market. Advertising Source: Nielsen Media Research (gross advertising expenditure) l_29e
10
Advertising market
5 6
women’s magazines together account for more Fort-
nightly
Fort-
nightly
women’s
women’s
than half the budget. Watch manufacturers prefer magazines 12
30
magazines 12
26
Lifestyle
news and current-affairs magazines, while jewel Lifestyle
magazines News and current-
magazines
News and current-
affairs magazines affairs magazines
lery brands are advertising increasingly in month and journals and journals
14%
29% 308.8 300.6
24% 2%
28% 1%
27% 5% 2% 6% 1%
3%
Advertising expenditure on cosmetic products 13%
2%
13%
17% 15%
and fragrances has been on an upward trend over 35% 22% 22%
34% 36% 33%
the last two years, with variations in different 35% 37%
segments. This rise has been driven in particular
2004 2005 2006 2007 Jan.–May Jan.–May
by the perfume and fragrance segment, which 2007 2008
recorded a greater than average increase of 21 Source: Nielsen Media Research (gross advertising expenditure) l_87 e
11
Communication
Extremely/very interested:
such subjects as fashion, trends, cosmetics, * Population aged 20 to 69, agreeing completely/on the whole with the following statements:
“I mainly buy exclusive brands” and/or “I like to buy in exclusive/upper-range clothing shops”
watches and jewellery. The socio-demographic Source: Communication Networks 11.1 Trend l_33e
Buyers of luxury products are selective in the Face and indicators 2.18 29 46 14 5 6
media they use. They show a disproportionate * Population aged 20 to 69, agreeing completely/on the whole with the following statements:
“I mainly buy exclusive brands”
Source: Communication Networks 11.1 Trend l_35e
affinity with print media. The internet, with a
12
Communication
in particular seem to be turning increasingly to * Population aged 20 to 69, agreeing completely/on the whole with the following statements:
“I mainly buy exclusive brands” and/or “I like to buy in exclusive/upper-range clothing shops”
the business press and to lifestyle magazines − a Source: Communication Networks 11.1 Trend i_36e
* Population aged 20 to 69, agreeing completely/on the whole with the following statements:
buyers, but high readership figures too. FOCUS “I mainly buy exclusive brands” and/or “I like to buy in exclusive/upper-range clothing shops”
Index: Population aged 20 to 69 = 100
Source: Communication Networks 11.1 Trend
is effective in this magazine segment because it l_37e
and fragrances. The combination of FOCUS with 70 90 110 130 150 170 190 210 230 250
CPM (EUR)
F OCUS M ONEY , the business publication for
* Population aged 20 to 69, agreeing completely/on the whole with the following statements:
which men have a high level of affinity, called the “I mainly buy exclusive brands” and/or “I like to buy in exclusive/upper-range clothing shops”
Basis: Top 15 by CPM; affinity >101 (population aged 20-69); Selection of publications
FOCUS-BlueChip-Kombi provide high readership (MA-adjusted): news and current-affairs magazines, business press, lifestyle magazines
Format: 1/1 p. 4c with bleed (Ø prices 2008 gross)
Source: Communication Networks 11.1 Trend / Potential: 5.59 m. l_38e
figures at a low CPM.
13
Your contacts
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