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Print

Various ways of printing on clothing and


fabrics
2:00 AM

Printing is referred to as controlled placement of color, design, motif,


pattern etc on a fabric. Printing finds popular application both in knitting and
woven garments. With printing, garments look colorful, smart a beautiful. Printing
can add a great value to the garments. If a product asking value is $10, then the
contribution of print and embroidery is at least $2. That means if print and
embroidery does not exist, those can be sold by $8. Printing sector is growing by
amplifying beautification of garments and to added value add service. So we can
easily realize the significance and value add service of these supporting industries
in apparel industry is inevitable.
Printing is essentially, ornamental artwork consisting of designs worked on fabric
either by hand or machine. Printing plays an important role to make a garment
product. It is very essential to decorate a garment. It has to be set on a specific
garment zone according to buyers expectation. It also makes the apparels more
gorgeous to customers. Currently most of the ready-made garments made with
different kinds of printing task.
Every buyer exist different logo or Icon. Generally buyer wishes to have an
attractive embroidery design or logo on their product. That design or logo represent
buyers slogan.
The colorant is first prepared in the form of a paste and applied on the fabric in
various ways:

(1) Direct printing (2) Discharge printing (3) Resist


Printing
(4) Transfer Printing (5) Flock Printing (6) Pigment Printing
(7) Lacquer Printing (8) Warp Printing
(9) Manual Printing,
(10) Roller Printing (11) Screen Printing.
We can discuss issues relevant to printing on clothing and fabrics. Printing on
textiles can be done by hand with screens and squeegees or on complex textile
printing machinery. Lets discuss printing techniques, printing machinery, as well
as local printers and international garment printing factories and more.
The goal of this discussion is to help each other to learn more about the craft of
textile printing. Let's learn how to make great print designs on our fashion and
complete our projects profitably.
1) Direct Printing / Overprinting: In this method the printing paste is applied
directly on to the prepared surface of the fabric. Overprinting implies that a plain
dyed fabric is printed with a pattern in a darker color.
2) Discharge Printing: A plain dyed fabric is overprinted with a discharge paste
which destroys or decolonizes or make a change in the color of the dye. A white
discharge is when the original white is restored to the printed area. A color
discharge is when a separate color is applied at the same time as the discharge
paste.

3) Resist Printing: This is when a white fabric is printed with a resist paste. One
subsequent dyeing the printed area is not colored. Resist areas can also be white or
colored.
4) Transfer Printing: The design is first applied onto a special type of paper with
certain type of dye paste. These are special papers. The pattern is transferred &
applied on to the fabric with the aid of a heated calendar.
The temperature is high enough to cause the dye stuffs to pass into the vapor phase
(Sublime). Since it is held in close proximity to the paper, under pressure, some of
the dye vapor finds its way onto the fabric and defuses into the fibers. The process
represents about 6% of print production and finds its most direct and simple
application on synthetic fiber textiles. Special techniques, paper, and fiber
preparation have been developed for natural fibers and blends.
5) Flock Printing: Velvet like appearance is obtained to the print by electrostatic
flocking. There the fibers snippets are caused to stand upright in an electrostatic
field as they are being applied.
6) Pigment Printing: Pigments are special colors. They do not dissolve and
penetrate into the fibers. They are applied together with a film forming binder.
More than 50% of all printing colors are pigment type.
7) Lacquer Printing: A pattern is made by printing the fiber with a colored resin.
This forms a shiny film.
8) Warp printing: Before weaving a pattern is printed onto the warp sheet. After
weaving the design is subdued and shadowy, without a distinct outline. Also called
chine or shadow print.
9) Hand Printing: This is the most primitive method of printing but it is now
seldom used. The printing paste is applied by the means of a wooden block, which
carries the design in relief, or by a stencil.
10) Roller printer: This is oldest mechanized method of continuous printing. But
now it represents only about 15% of printing production. The method is now on the
decline. Roller printing can produce sharp outlines to the printed pattern. This
feature is especially important for small figures. The maximum design repeats is
the circumference of the engraved roller. The design is engraved onto copper
rollers. One roller is designated for each color. The rollers are mounted against the
large main cylinder, around which the fiber travels together with a resilient blanket
and a protective back grey. The printed paste is located in a trough.

A transfer roller runs partly immersed in the paste and in contact with the engraved
roller. A doctor blade scrapes away all of the paste except for that contained in the
engraving. A cleaning blade on the other side scrapes away any lint picked up from
the fabric. The pressure of the engraved roller against the fabric causes the design
to be transferred. Any excess paste which is squeezed through the fabric is taken up
by the back grey. This protects the blanket and prevents the design from being
smeared.
11) Screen Printing: Screen printing (flat and rotary) is the most important
printing method now-a-days. This method currently makes substantial printing
production. The design is formed on a screen by blocking off those parts of the
screen where no Printing is to occur.
The screen is coated with a light sensitive polymer and then selectively exposed
through a stencil. Exposed areas are made insoluble; unexposed areas are washed
away. A modern alternative is to coat the screen with an insoluble polymer which is
then selectively etched away by a computer driven laser beam. A separate screen is
required for each color. The maximum design repeat is the size of the screen,
which can be much larger than an engraved roller.
Screen printing Process: Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven
mesh to support an ink-blocking stencil i.e thin sheet in which a pattern is cut,
placed on a surface and printed or inked over etc to reproduce the pattern.

The printing process may be a manual operation or carried


out with varying degrees of automation. Garments or garment components are

precisely placed on a palate. Sometimes an adhesive spray is used on the palate to


ensure stationary placement of the item to be printed.
A screen for each color in the design is loaded onto a rotating carousel. An operator
lowers each screen one at a time in a predetermined sequence, over the garment on
the revolting palette. A sequence is used to force a thick, viscose ink through the
screen and onto the garment. For multi-color designs, the ink may be partially
cured (flashed) between applications to eliminate discoloration or smearing.
Inks are cured by exposing them to heat, usually between 300 and 350 degrees
Fahrenheit. Heat softens resin particles and causes them to swell. Resins absorb
liquid around them and meld together to form a film.
Ink curing time and the amount of heat required vary with each brand of ink,
amount of ink applied to a garment, blend of ingredients and the type of drying
oven. Light color ink may require more heat than darker inks due to reflection
characteristics. Garment color may also alter curing time. Curing can be tasted by
stretching the printed design forcefully. If cracks appear or the film crumbles or
smears when rubbed, the film is under cured.
By reading above lastly we can realize that screen-printing is a process where a
design, drawing, artwork or other format is transformed to a film and the film is
converted to a screen. The number of screens for any design is based on the
number of colors of the design. Relations are then transferred through the screen to
the garment in a proper order to achieve the desired result. The process involves
exact pressures, specialized links and heat curing to result in a long lasting design.
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Print

Heat Transfer Print Procedure


6:47 AM

Heat transfer print is another ornamental part of a garment. It has to be set on a


specific garment zone by a transparent Logo print Film/Paper based on standard
temperature, Time and Pressure. Logo print film generally made of an artificial
chemical compound and its object almost same as Screen Print. In garments sector
for making garment generally we depend on Natural Fiber. Due to the shortage of
natural fiber demand of synthetic fiber increasing day by day in garments industry.

Heat transfer print basically use on synthetic fabric. In this situation


Textile/Garment manufacturers are feeling the importance and improvement of
Heat Transfer Print. Heat transfer print is substitute of screen printing and its
purpose to minimize screen printing time as well as costing.

To do the heat transfer operation, operator


need to reset the machine temperature, Time and Pressure based on fabric nature to
get the best performance or result. For this operation garment factory can follow
the most modern, scientific machinery, lab test procedure and inspection system.
Most of the leading Buyer is using heat transfer print process for their dynamic
product. In heat transfer operation Q.A department has to follow the several
inspection methods.
Those processes are mentioning bellow:
(A) Pre- Production Inspection Preparation:
(i) Collect the fabrics Swatch and Heat Transfer print film/paper.
(ii) Collect the BOM and logo instruction from Buyer/supplier
(iii) Brief Machine operator, Q.A, Cutting, Maintenance team & set the Machine
according to buyer or suppliers instruction.
(iv) The machine temperature, time, pressure need to be reset to make the mockup. Keep the machine temperature, time, pressure record.
(B) Lab Testing Procedure:
(i) There are three kinds of Lab test for Heat transfer print.
*PEELS OFF

*STORAGE TEST
*COLOR BLEEDING (Color Fastness) TEST.
(ii) Do lab test daily minimum1 PC / Color / Logo / Style by following
below procedure?
* Generally Lab test standard level 5 cycles for PANEL & 3 cycles for garments.
(iii) Must need to keep lab test record and maintain the inspection log book
(iv) Prepare daily inspection report and dispatch to concern section.
(C) Mock up processing & Analysis:
(i) If found any instruction from supplier/buyer, kindly follow it first, if result is
pass then proceed for production.
(ii) If not found any right information from supplier/buyer, then apply basic idea to
set the machine and record the Time, Temperature and pressure properly.
(iii) If visually accept then sent for lab test. If lab result is:
Passthen proceed for production.
Failthen again do mock up by readjusting the machine temp, time, pressure etc.
then resubmit those mock up for lab test (Until get the Pass results).
(D) Pre- Bulk Caution:
(i) Any failed issue Re-heat/ Re-test or find out the reason and stop the production
till getting the pass result.
(ii) Daily cleaning the machine and try to set one M/C for individual LOGO.
(iii) Use the Rubber / Washer as per LOGO size and White knit fabrics for avoid
the shine mark.
(E) Bulk Production. Processing and analysis:
(i) Heat transfer machine and inspection table need to set in a restricted area for
smooth production.

(ii) Before start production need to check the Logo placement, design and fabric
item, color combination etc randomly.
(iii) Submit mock up two times daily for lab test and keep record.
(iv) Maintain the daily inspection LOG BOOK and inspection Summary.
So, finally we can say Heat transfer is a process of transferring an image to a
substrate by applying heat and pressure. A design is printed on paper with special
dyes and transferred to a product by application of heat and pressure. Specific
temperatures and dwell times change a dye from a solid to a gaseous state and back
to a solid form on the product. Heat transfer prints are available in stretch, flock,
puff, reflective and foil design.

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