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Research Proposal - Major A

Empowerment or exploitation

Jayme Calderwood Zohdi S3331439


Bachelor of Fashion Merchandise Management BP310

Contents
Abstract
1.Title

2. Introduction & Rationale

3. Research Aim & Objectives


4. Literature Review

2
3
4-11

Ethical Fashion

4.1.2
Child Labour and exploitation

4.1.3
Contrasting opinion on child labour

4.1.4
Fair trade and Sustainable practices

4.1.5
Supply chain management and Corporate social responsibility

4.1

4.1.6

Environmental impacts

10

5. Framework

12

6. Research concepts / Proposed Research Design

14

14

6.1

Research Concepts

6.1.1 Qualitative research

14

6.1.2 Quantitative research

14

6.1.3 Secondary Data

14

6.1.4 Primary Data

15

6.1.5 Data Triangulation

15

6.1.6 Validity

15

6.1.7

Ethics and access

15

6.1.8
Limitations 16
6.2 Proposed Research Design

16

6.2.1 Information required

16

6.2.2 Data collection techniques

16

6.2.3 Limitations

17

6.2.4 Access

18

6.2.5 Ethical Procedures

18

7. Gantt Chart and Budget

19

7.1

Gantt chart for Research Project

20

7.2

Budget for Report Project

20

8. Reference List

21-23

9. Appendices

24

9.1

24

Interview Questions

9.1.2
Full images featured in text

25-26

9.1.3
Concept Maps and Idea Planning

27-30

Abstract
This paper presents results of research aimed at identifying the issues of sustainability within the fashion industry. As sustainability involves many issues the focus of this paper investigates different areas
of a supply chain highlighting concerns and disputes over sweatshop practices leading to child labour,
exploitation, discouraged fair trade and corporate social responsibility. The study also takes a deeper
look into the extreme pressures placed on individuals by the convergence of economic need and cultural imperatives, linking to social and environmental concerns. It is identified that companies are now
adopting socially responsible strategies within the business unit but their still remains the problem over
the lack of knowledge and research that covers certain issues within market.
It is acknowledged that the intent is not to eradicate certain practices but merely to examine the complex nature of a companies supply chain, from production to consumer, effectively investigating current and viable scenarios, in an attempt to implement better practice with levels of transparency. The
research in this proposal was gathered from numerous resources such as certified databases, articles,
literature reviews and books.

Empowerment or exploitation, an expose of the inequality in


todays fashion industry with an attempt to create balance.
The importance of implementing social and environmental sustainability within the
Fashion industry to create an equal playing field and brighter future.

2.

Introduction and Rationale

The research intends to examine the current issues of sustainability within todays society, focusing
on the harsh reality of sweatshop practices, fair trade, corporate social responsibility and sustainable
supply chain management. The issue of child labour and exploitation and its association to the fashion
industry highlights the strong relationship between modes of production and ethical responsibility, as
companies continue to source from developing countries in search for cheaper production and quicker
lead times. The current constraints on the industry demonstrates that supply chain management has
become a topic of increasing strategic importance and social responsibility is of great concern in an
increasingly globalized industry and it is stated that a company is no more sustainable than its supply
chain (Krause 2009).
The topics of discussion will clearly identify the importance of creating a connection between a product and who was involved in making it, to effectively re connect severed links in the attempt to create
stronger collaborative networks which will leverage the capabilities of the whole supply chain. In todays
society it is going to take more than just awareness to address the current issues of poor labour practices which are currently endemic as companies need to find ways to convince consumers about their
ethical integrity (Carrigana and Attalla, 2001). Companies must understand that the eradication of
sweatshops is not the answer but it is merely a matter of putting in place better practice.
The current issues that are present within the fashion industry worldwide demonstrate the human cost
of cheap clothing, although good practice seems to be at the forefront of discussion creating viable
scenarios to generate better working conditions and a sustainable future. The ethical issues raised surrounding the fashion industry have targeted public interest among consumers, retailers, designers and
manufacturers with the aim to create fashion with a conscious (Joergens, 2006). The research investigates and displays the importance of partnerships between producers and traders, which aims at
sustainable development (People Tree, 2009).

3.

Research Aims and Objectives

The aim will be to determine and assess the issues currently associated with creating sustainable practices within the fashion industry, in an attempt to put in place better practise and aim towards corporate social responsibility throughout a sustainable supply chain, focusing on implementing fair trade
and taking ethics into consideration.
1-

To identify and investigate sustainable practice within the fashion industry, focusing on fair

trade and ethics.

2-

To identify and analyse corporate social responsibility practices within the Australian fashion

retail industry.

3-

To evaluate and make recommendations concerning the elements of a sustainable supply chain

management.

4.

Literature Review

This literature review will discuss and explore areas of sustainability within the fashion industry, ethics, labour rights, fair trade and corporate social responsibility in an attempt to promote better practice. In an industry sector that is continuously facing endless pressure, companies must address that
the current status of the market place is characterized by off shore sourcing, high levels of instability
and prolonged downward price pressure. It is highly suggested that social responsibility is a growing
area of concern and the greatest challenge here is to achieve substantial compliance with labour rights
throughout the supply chain whist adopting sustainable practices. With Fair trade at the forefront of
concern world wide, there is current demand in establishing partnerships that entail, transparency and
respect, contributing to sustainable development and better trading conditions.
Although we must acknowledge the viable practices undertaken by leading innovators such as People
Tree, Patagonia and American apparel, also looking at companies who are taking into consideration,
the effect in which the production of fashion is having on the environment. Essentially sustainability
was defined in 1987 and means being able to satisfy current needs without compromising the possibility for future generations to satisfy their own needs, with this being said researchers and companies
are devoting amplified attention to the topic of environmental sustainability in the attempt to achieve a
balance between environmental and business needs (Clarke and Clegg, 200). It is important for companies to create sustainable supply chains, adhere to rules and regulations and take into consideration
corporate social responsibility to create a better future for fashion retail and develop stronger and ethically sound networks world wide.
Ethical Fashion
Ethical fashion is expressed as the production of clothing under fair trade principles in 100% sweatshop free labour conditions, with the conscious efforts to reduce social and environmental issues. It is
also discussed as a new approach to fashion with conscience in the market and refers to a growing
number of ethical clothing companies that currently exist (Joergens 2006, p360). However Joergens
raises the point that Ethical fashion is generally hard to define, as there is no current industry standard, although it relates to characteristics with other movements such as fair trade, environmentalism
and green fashion (Joergens 2006, p360). There are many theories that have been proposed regarding the unethical stability of the fashion industry, as in todays society current issues continue to prevail
over the ongoing debate of workers undergoing unethical labour practices, unfair trade agreements
and poor, unsafe or unsanitary working conditions. The increasing mass production of garments has
brought about large concern worldwide causing great deliberation over the well being of individuals and
the sustainability of the future of retail. Sustainability was reportedly defined in 1987 as being able to
satisfy current needs without compromising the possibility for future generations to satisfy their own
needs (World Commission on Environment and Development, 1987) also referred to as the focus on
the use of natural resources and their influence on quality of life (Robinson, 2004) with a relationship
between social equity, economic growth and the respect for the environment. The current situation
aims to appeal to the triple bottom line approach (Elkington 1998) addressing certain issues that may
impact future generations.
The industry is under immense pressure as unlawful acts continue to surface, with companies continuously disregarding the health and wellbeing of their workers, forcing unreasonable hours, child labour,
and paying inadequate wages that drive individuals under the poverty line. The harsh reality of long
hours and little earnings is not the only concern, this ongoing problem of inhumane working conditions,
exploitation, ignored regulations, labour abuse and ignorant acts by corporations has caused a world
wide disconnect. The production of clothes and shoes in the last 25 years has unfortunately shifted to
some of the poorest counties in the world, According to Womens Wear Daily, as of 2012, 85 percent
of apparel for the US market was produced outside its boarders and the council of textiles and fashion

industry of Australia state that 92% of clothes sold in Australia are imported.
M.D.C Crawford suggest that history is almost repeating itself, as working conditions and unfair trade
seems to be relapsing as the nature of the industry is such that without a constant surveillance, the
evil might return (2014, p113). Referring to the idea that without monitoring rules and regulations
people within developing countries will continue to suffer. However outsourcing of production overseas
is nothing new to the fashion industry, the low operational and labour expenses, the overhead costs
associated with operating a manufacturing facility and levels of flexibility, has effectively lured manufactures to move. According to Joel Seidman this out of town movement is a phase of the search for
cheap labour that has gone on virtually without interruption since the needle trades developed supporting that statement Gordon et al. (2014) described the problem is characterized by networks of
contractors and specialized subcontractors which exists as part of the garment food chain. Although
a major issue lies in the hands of the unknown, it is evident that many consumers and companies are
very much unaware of exactly what they are buying or whom they are doing business with, this has
caused companies to turn a blind eye and disregard the truth that lies beneath the sheets.
Child labour and exploitation
The current growing issue of child labour and exploitation discovers the relationship between companys production and ethical responsibility. In todays society there is a boundary between fair labour
and blatant abuse, meaning we must examine the complex nature of working conditions and economic
certainties across the globe. Child labour refers to the employment of children in an industry or business, most often when illegal practices are undertaken, this is considered exploitative. Exploitation
essentially refers to the use or working of something, especially for a profit (Liat Smestad 2009,
p.149). Children amongst developing countries have become victims of global, political and economic
movements that has underlined a variety of extremely complex circumstances such as poor education, high poverty, cultural attitudes and a lack of social services. It is important to understand that the
growing nature of the Fashion industry is constantly having a negative impact on developing countries
where individuals have little to no say in the matter, suffering circumstances that they have no power
to change, nor do they have anywhere to seek for help.
Companies today have effectively become blind sided of the practices that are undergone within developing countries, unaware of the certain circumstances that these children experience where the greatest challenge here is to achieve substantial compliance with labour rights throughout the entire supply
chain. Liat Smestad (2009, p.149) reports that according to a new National Labour Committee report,
an estimated 200 children have been the victims of child labour, many of these children being the age
of 11 or even younger, are sewing clothes for companies such as Hanes, Wal-Mart, Penny and Puma
at the Harvest Rich factory in Bangladesh. It is reported that children have in the past been beaten,
harassed and run down from exhaustion, whist still expected to work around 12-14 hours daily even
sometimes all night, with little breaks and minimal food, usually seven days a week for wages as little
as 6 cents per hour. In this instance sweatshops not only symbolizes the growing greed of the industry
but it also highlights incredible levels of poverty in which many lives all over the world live and suffer on a daily basis. Jean lambert (2015) discusses a moment in the history for the garment industry
that changed everything, the Rana Plaza incident in Bangladesh that claimed the lives of more than
1,100 individuals where the building that had previously been reported as unstable and unsafe due to
cracks in the walls collapsed on innocent individuals. This tragedy typically highlighted the human cost
of cheap clothing, opening peoples eyes up to the levels of inhume behaviours that take place in developing countries where Brands were fully aware of the conditions at factories like Rana Plaza but continued business as usual, increasing orders and demanding lower prices. (Tansy Hoskins 2015) Local
factory owners have gone so far to say that they are pushed so hard that they simply can not afford
to ensure there factories and workers are safe, this should not be the answer, a humans life should be
considered a blessing and not a burden.

Figure 1.0 The Rana Plazzza building falling down after the employees re-joined their work on April 24 morning. Photo: Star

Figure 1.1 Inconsolable, relatives of the dead and the missing still flock to Rana Plaza despite no hope of any other survivor.
Photo: Star

However this incident did spark the collective conscience of consumers, retailers, investors and governments but was not enough to target everyone (Gershon, Jasmin & Claire 2015), even after such
an incident 91% of companies still dont know where all their cotton comes from and 75% of who are
unaware of where there fabrics where actually sourced from. With this being said if companies are unaware of production location and sourcing, then how is it that they would have any control or any way
of ensuring that their workers are safe and protected from the harsh reality of bad practice. It is stated

The real power behind the throne is held by the brands as they have a huge amount of control over
the production in factories, so essentially they have the power to influence certain working conditions
and encourage higher wages (Tansy Hoskins 2015). In 1997, the average woman in the UK bought 19
items of clothing a year; in 2007, she bought 34 (Jason Berg 2014), essentially the demand for fast
fashion will only continue to get stronger, meaning if actions are not put into place soon the issue will
only continue to get worse.
Contrasting opinion on child labour
However this also raises the issue that these individuals are unable to refuse such conditions where
they suffer low wages and long hours because opportunity is so scares and economic necessity so
strong, in this case it seems exploitation is the reality of the devastating task of survival and is perceived as a nonnegotiable need (Liam Smestad 2008). Grootaert and Patrinos state In many societies a 10 year old whose work makes a major contribution to the households income is not considered
a child(1999:2, p.150). Living in a world of poverty has repositioned the different priorities of childhood and this current issue of child labour can appeal not only to people of Bangladesh but also to a
large and diverse number of people throughout the world (Ethel Brooks 2007:1, p.149)
Child labour is to acknowledge the economic and social vulnerability of workers young and old (Liat
Smestad 2009, p.149) and to consciously make sure the working conditions adhere to rules and regulations. It is all too common that working conditions within sweatshops are a representation of not
only of labour abuse but also a strong indicator of poor quality, unacceptable ethics, and human rights
violation. A sweatshop is referred to as a physical place, an industry phenomenon, a cultural indicator,
and economic model, and the mascot for labour abuse worldwide (Liat Smestad, p151) supporting this
notion is the U.S General Accounting Office (GAO) who than goes to define sweatshops as an employer that violates more than one federal or state labour law governing minimum wage and overtime,
child labour, industrial homework, occupational safety and health, workers compensation, or industry
regulation(Ross 1997:12, p151). It is evident that the term sweatshop effectively has many connotations: a hot, crowded space; mistreated workers and repugnant working conditions, with an extremely
long list off offences that are being broken that date back nearly a century old and it seems not much
has changed.

Figure 1.2 an image of an over crowded working space of over 1,129 workers

Although on the contrast MIT economics professor Michael Piore seeks to look at the situation from an
alternate angle discussing how the term sweatshop has been thrown around to loosely to describe
nearly any situation that seams inhumane and unfair, in his study Michael Piore calls sweatshops,
symptomatic of a particular economic logic, the manifestation of a specific organization of work, where
the sweatshop is characterized by very low fixed costs. (1997: 135, p152).
This indicates that the current issue is incredibly complex and eradicating sweatshops completely
may not be the initial answer, with the termination of sweatshops we are also eliminating a significant
source of income and creating extra pressure for individuals to seek jobs for example in illegal professions (Liat Smestad, p155). However pressures should be placed on industries to begin to monitor better working conditions and increase the minimum wage, Richard Rothstein a research associate
of the Economic Policy Institute and the former education columnist for the New York Times identifies that other areas around the world such as Mexico who currently have labour wages four times
higher than for example in Indonesia and other developing countries, stating that Even if a modest
increase in Indonesias minimum wage tempted manufacturers to move their facilities to, say, Mexico,
the temptation would be frustrated if Mexico simultaneously enforced a comparable increase in its
minimum (Richard Rothstein 2005:3, p156). Rothstein argues the point that The fear that labour
standards would cause manufacturers to flee, only makes sense if some countries were exempt from
global regulation (Rothstein 2005:3, p157). Essentially it is identified that the growing issue is not just
from a single cause, but it is about how the world is structured by interconnected associations through
economy, commerce, politics and how each of these areas have placed great pressure onto people into
certain actions, where social cultural and political forces have shaped the world of exploitation.
Fair trade and Sustainable practices
Companies must work towards conducting levels of fair trade and enforcing a positive approach to fair
labour, it is stated by Connolly and Shaw (2006, p77) that there is no universally accepted definition of
fair trade, but FINE an international alliance of Fair Trade organizations defines in 2001 that Fair trade
is a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equality in
international trade (FINE 2001, P77) supporting this statement Low and Davenport, 2006 suggests
that the concept of fair trade has become more familiar to consumers and can be considered part of
a broader group of ethical consumers. This movement encourages sustainable development by offering better trading conditions with small but steady wages. It is no longer true that companies must
produce there products overseas to stay competitive, in this rapidly evolving industry there are many
brands that do or have started to provide ethical alternatives and sustainable practices for example
CUE being one of Australias leading womens fashion labels who manufacture over 75% of its clothing
in Australia (Walsh, S 2009) along with White suede, Scanlan Theodore and Manning Cartell, for these
Australian retailers the answer is ethical supply chain management and ethical sourcing with a good
relationship with their supplier. International designers have also in recent years gotten on board producing ethical clothing lines such as Vegan designer Stella McCartney who has produced a line without
the use of animal products and Philip Lims Go Green line that is constructed with natural fibres and
organic cottons (Liat Smestad 2009, p158).
Although becoming ethically sound and conducting sustainable practices isnt always easy, as we can
see controversial clothing brand America Apparel has been reported to be at the for front of all major
labor battles, including allegations of sexual harassment and misconduct, yet this does not distract
from their revolutionary business model, one that has effectively been able to capture the audience of
many young teenagers worldwide. American Apparel is located in downtown Los Angeles with all aspects from design to physical labour taking place under the roof of an 800,000 square foot factory. It is
stated by not outsourcing, weve made the process so much more efficient this is stated by Alexandra
Spunt, a content adviser at American Apparels factory and headquarters in Los Angeles (Liat Smestad
2009, p159). Supporting the previous statement it is suggested that market demand can be responded

too much faster, also the company is able to effectively produce adequate amounts of stock and not
produce anything that hasnt been successful, this effectively saves the company time and money and
allows American apparel to contribute to their employees living wage. (Machosky 2006). American apparel demonstrates that effective labour restructuring consists of building a sustainable business practice. Throughout the company the average sewer is paid well over twice the federal minimum and each
employee has the assurance of job security. This current business model emphasizes on the notion that
happy, healthy workers make a better product. What has become very clear is that ethical and transparent businesses models can in fact be competitive and commercially successful in todays society, as
American apparel has proven that it is possible for companies to operate a fashionable clothing company that is effectively affordable for consumers whilst remaining financially successful and incredibly
current.
However American Apparel is not the only company adhering to sustainable practices, Peter Fisk (2010,
p64) discuss the company Patagonia, that has effectively promoted fair labour practices and safe working conditions throughout their entire supply chain, along with being an early pioneer of corporate
environmentalism. In 2008 Patagonia was awarded Eco Brand of the Year at the Volvo Ecodesign
Forum awards in March, the companies aim of having a positive impact on the environment. Patagonia focused on understanding the value of impacts throughout the supply chain and acknowledged the
value that this held for customers and stakeholders worldwide. The aim was to use this information to
establish a more transparent and accountable approach to production and marketing. The company
has also adopted corporate responsibility throughout the business that takes liability for the impact of
their activities on employees, customers, communities and the environment as stated on their website.
Patagonia has also donated $25 million to over 1,000 organizations and it currently donates 1 percent
of its profits to an alliance after the name 1 per cent For the Planet. (Peter Fisk 2010, p64)
In addition Helen Goworek a senior lecturer in marketing in the division of Marketing, retail and operations, explores the business model of the company People Tree, which is a small to medium enterprise that sells fair trade and organic mens, womans and childrens wear sourced from developing
countries. This company has adopted a unique business model in which they provide their customers
with details of the suppliers that manufacture their products, offering a level of transparency throughout their production. Carrigana and Attalla (2001, p80) propose that companies need to find ways
to convince consumers about their ethical integrity this notion is supported by Marylyn Carrigan and
Ahmad Attalla who state that consumer sophistication is no real guarantee that consumers actually participate in wise or ethical buying practices (Titus and Bradford, 1996). Sofia Minney founder
of people tree believes that fair trade is a partnership between producers and traders, which aims at
sustainable development for excluded and disadvantaged people in developing countries (People Tree,
2009). People Tree strives to live by the principles to promote the workings of traditional skills, operate
with transparency, avoid using damaging chemicals and promote the use of natural resources by using
recycled and biodegradable substances where possible. Minney (2007) states that one of people trees
aims is to alter the widespread perception that ethical clothing is unattractive and make the idea appeal to everyone on a wide spread scale (Tomolio and shaw, 2003), by overcoming some of the factors
for which ethical clothing is sometimes criticized. With the belief that there will be a significant growth
for ethically made clothes in the future, it is suggested that early commitments will result in long-term
cash flows. The current status of the fashion industry has vast potential for improvement, With current
sustainable development being advocated as a guiding principle in the industry, it still must be assessed and transferred into business practices, particularly within the supply chain (Fredrick Caniato et
al .2011, p4)
Supply chain management and Corporate social responsibility
In an exploratory case based research it is established that companies have in the past faced challenges in attaining a good balance between environmental models and business needs (Clarke and Clegg,

2000), whilst achieving a sustainable supply chain that provides levels of transparency and adheres to
corporate social responsibilities. A company that adopts traceability and transparency is able to trace
suppliers and establish systems throughout the supply chain that aim to address and prevent modern slavery and worker exploitation. In context Supply chain management (SCM) serves two underlying purposes, helping companies be effectively competitive and allowing them to adopt environmental
responsibility (Fredrick Caniato et al .2011, p1) it is addressed that working closely with partners in
time-based competition is important and more and more companies are adopting sustainable strategies. Patsy and Neil (2012) support the previous statement by underlining that trust and cooperation
between supply chain partners can effectively create strong collaborative networks that fundamentally
leverage the capabilities of the whole supply chain and lead to competitive advantage.
Supply chain management (SCM) represents an effort by suppliers to develop and implement supply chains that are as efficient and economical as possible, however the idea of a sustainable supply
chain management (SSCM) can be defined as the management of material, information and capital
flows as well as cooperation among companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all three
dimensions of sustainable development into account which are derived from customer and stakeholder
requirements (Seuring & Mller, 2008: 1700) SCM can also be considered as the implementation of
corporate sustainability into the supply chain, although regardless of the defined meaning, SSCM can
and will vary depending on the certain structure of the specific business unit in place. It is stated that
essentially the role of SCM is larger than any other organisational function in adopting social and environmental issues (Tate et al. 2010) with the supporting statement that a company is no more sustainable than its supply chain (Krause et al, 2009 p479).
Environmental impacts
It is encouraged that managers consider all platforms of environmental issues throughout the SC, as it
has come to great concern the impact in which the fashion industry has had on the environment, with
the use of different fibres such as wool, cotton and synthetics inherently requires process that demand
large quantities of pesticides and water along with the use oh large levels of energy that are exhausted
in the production of nonrenewable resources (Myers and Stolon, 1999, p1). It is known that producing
fashion has always been one of the longest and most complex industrial chains within the manufacturing industry (Kate Fletcher, Sustainable fashion & textiles) and significant environmental impacts can
occur at every stage of the textile life cycle.
In current years the market of environmentally friendly production of apparel has grown rapidly, with
the rising concern over product sustainability, the life cycle of a garment and eco friendly labels. It is
no secret that the fashion industry has been put under immense pressure and spotlight over the significant contribution to global, environmental and social issue. As the apparel industry has a long and
complicated life cycle, it is understood that the environmental, social and financial aspects are all interrelated. As stated earlier an example of a company implementing environmental practices is Patagonia,
a company that in the 1990s changed there mission to give the maximum attention to product quality
while striving to do no harm to the environment (Chouinard and Brown, 1997). By effectively adding the green component to supply chain management means addressing the influence and relation
between SCM and the natural environment (Srivastava, 2006 and Zhu et al, 2008).
It is made apparent that the current issue of ethics, fair trade, SCM, sustainability and child labour see
tense relationships between modes of production and ethical responsibility as their has been past and
present pressure placed on companies as the result of the combination of economic needs and cultural
necessities. It is underlined throughout, that the initial goal is not to dwell on the misconduct and poor
practice of the fashion industry but to effectively investigate current and viable scenarios, in an attempt
to implement better practice.

10

Existing situations of misconduct and unethically sound production has turned the fashion industry
upside down and created long lists of debatable concerns, with sustainability currently being a major
issue in todays society we must look at the issue from diverse angles and acknowledge that it is now
the companies turn to alter current business models that comply with existing concerns and issues.
Companies are held responsible for environmental and social problems caused not only by themselves
directly, but also by their suppliers, although the display of sustainable practices exhibited by companies such at Patagonia and People should be acknowledged and used as leading examples within
the industry. It is made clear that the researcher will now need to conduct an investigation to further
scrutinize these specific areas of sustainability in an approach to create transparency and aim towards
corporate social responsibility throughout the supply chain, specifically analysing areas of fair trade and
ethical concern.

11

5.

Framework

Who

What

Why

How

They will contribute an


insight on how they
value a sustainable supply chain and how they
feel about transparency
within a company.

A Senior executive usually


employs a significant level
of knowledge and an extensive range of experience,
valid information would be
gained about the companies
practises and current supply
chain models.

An elaborate interview, with the use of


open ended questions

STAKEHOLDERS
2 x Senior executives of
fashion companies
A senior executive is a well
respected employee within a
company that has extensive
knowledge of the business
Matters or has/is working their
way up through the ranks of the
company.

Industry buyer with at least


10 years experience
Industry buyer with at least
10 years experience will have
extensive knowledge and have
a good understanding of the
industry / company they are
working for.

This will allow for a


greater understanding and the collection
of primary information
about how the company
values sustainability and
transparency.
They will contribute
an insight on current
trends in the market and
identify current customer needs, can also
contribute an opinion on
weather they feel Eco
fashion is trending for
consumers and if it is of
great demand.
Can also gather information on weather ethics
plays a role in purchasing power.

CEO of a fashion company


a highest ranking executive in a
company whos main responsibility includes; developing and
implementing high level strategies, making major corporate
decisions, managing the overall
operations and resources of a
company

Consumers

They will effectively


contribute an insight
on the business moves
and decisions within the
company in relation to
sustainability, fair trade
and ethical fashion.

They will contribute


there understandings
The demographic of the consum- of fair trade within the
industry, sustainability,
er group will be young adults
ethical fashion and Eco
that have a great influence on
or green fashion.
future trends and outcomes,
these could also include fashion
These individuals will be
students that will have an influable to share there opinence on future business modions and thoughts.
els as they could proceed into
management roles or seek jobs
in the industry, aged around 20
- 26
Along with consumers that may
be aware of present issues
within our society and have a
broader understanding of the
fashion sector, these individuals
will be aged over 26 +

2 senior executives will be


interviewed to compare and
contrast the information
different information that
will eliminate levels of bias
A buyers roles usually require reacting to changes in
demand, logistics and meeting suppliers to negotiate
terms of contracts

An elaborate interview, with the use of


open ended questions

Information can be gathered on these areas along


with contributing an insight
on outsourcing from developing countries.

These CEOs have been


chosen as they act as the
main point of communication between the board of
directors and the corporate
operations

An elaborate interview, with the use of


open ended questions

These specific consumer


groups will provide their
own personal opinion on the
current situations regarding sustainable fashion and
weather they find transparency, supply chain management and eco clothing
a leading factor in there
purchasing decision.

n depth focus group,


that will be discussion based with the
use of prompts and
supporting images
regarding sustainability in the fashion
industry.
(Informal discussion)

Also giving insight on


weather they feel the topics
of discussion are of major
concern in todays society

12

Companies
The aim will be to target two
companies that are currently
based in Australia. One that
is based in Melbourne but out
sources production overseas and
a company that manufactures
and produces within Australia.

They will contribute an


insight on the degree
and levels of impact that
sustainable practices,
eco clothing or organically made clothes has
on the every day consumer.
Employees of these
companies can also be
targeted to gain insight
on whether they understand anything about
the brand they currently
work for

Have chosen to look into


companies to identify how
they rank / acknowledge
the importance of sustainability and ethical practises
world wide

An elaborate interview, with the use of


open ended questions (informal)

Have also chosen to target


these employees off the
different companies to gain
a understand of weather
these individuals are knowledgeable about the garments they are selling to
their consumers

BROADER AUDIENCE
Academics
Academics that are currently
studying the issues of sustainability, sustainable practice, Eco
clothing, ethics, child labour,
SSCM (sustainable supply chain
management), SCM (supply
chain management) and fair
trade.

Bloggers / writers
- Fashion Bloggers

- Eco friendly fashion Bloggers


- Writers targeting sustainability
in the fashion industry
- Bloggers starting up and wanting to target a certain niche

Fashion students
Fashion students that are currently studying areas of sustainability, eco fashion, ethics, fair
trade, transparency or supply
chain management

Academics will benefit


from information about
current situations within
the fashion sector and
gain an alternative understanding off sustainable practices.

For future resources


Validation of information
To compare and contrast
To gain insight in issues
Limit bias opinion
Data Triangulation

Bloggers and certain


writers will benefit from
this piece of writing as a
source secondary information and as a greater
insight in sustainability
and sustainable practises. This can also be used
as a source to quote or
reference when writing
up about current issues
in the fashion industry

For future resources


Validation of information
To compare and contrast
To gain insight in issues
Limit bias opinion
Data Triangulation

Fashion students will


benefit from information
about current situations
within the fashion industry to gain an alternative understanding off
sustainable practices,
ethical practises, sweatshops and the effect that
the fashion industry if
having on our environment. It will also inform
student of good and bad
practise, comparing and
contrasting issues.

For future resources


Validation of information
To compare and contrast
To gain insight in issues
Limit bias opinion
Data Triangulation

These academics will


also gain greater knowledge in the current areas concern and be able
to use this information
to either validate current
sources or compare and
contrast pieces of writing. Academics will also
have a greater insight of
companies that also are
off good practise.

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6.

Research concepts / Proposed Research Design

6.1 Research Concepts


6.1.1 Qualitative Research
Qualitative is derived from quality, a term coined by Plato to mean of what kind. Qualitative research
is characterized by the use of methods that attempt to examine inherent traits, characteristics, and
qualities of the political objects of inquiry (Landam 2000, PP. 227) the methods used in the type of research tend to be more imperative in nature.
Qualitative methods of research include in depth interviews with individuals, group discussions, diary
and journal exercises. This type of research can be conducted in person, by telephone, via conference
and via the internet. (Grix 2010)
The positives and negatives of this type of research:
Essentially this style of research provides us with a rich and detailed understanding of topical questions, and can give us an insight on why people act a certain way about certain issues , however qualitative data can be bias and can skew the data gathered, this method is also time consuming and for a
company can last months or almost years, could also be costly.
6.1.2 Quantitative Research
This term is derived from quality, and refers to numbers. Quantitative research employs methods
with the intention of being able to produce data that can be quantified (counted, measured, weighed,
enumerated, and so manipulated and compared mathematically). This type of research is interested
in finding general patterns and relationships among variables, including for some testing theories and
making predictions (Ragin 1994:132-6)
Quantitative research includes surveys and customer questionnaires (this can help firms for example
to improve their products and services by allowing them to make informed decisions). The results of
this style of research are based on larger sample sizes that are representative of the population and all
aspects of the study are carefully designed before data is collected. (Grix 2010)
The positives and negatives of this type of research:
This style of data allows us to evaluate and analyze collected data, this can be used to test hypotheses
as we have the ability to measure data using statistics. However the specific context of the study is being ignored and does not allow you to discuss certain meaning and go into great depth. A disadvantage
is also that a large sample of the population must be studied to get accurate information.
6.1.3 Secondary Research
Secondary data analysis is any further analysis of an existing database which presents interpretations,
conclusions or knowledge additional to, or different from, those produced in the first report on the inquiry as a whole and its main results. This also refers to data that has been collected in the past or by
other parties. (Smith, ES 2008)
Examples of Secondary data:
-
Research reports
-
Government Reports
-
The Internet
-
Books and articles
-
Reports and documentations

14

6.1.4 Primary Data


Primary data or information, which has not yet been published and must therefore be found by field
research. (A&C Black 2006)
Examples of Primary data:
-
Surveys
-
In-depth focus groups
-
Experiments
-
Interviews
-
Group discussion
6.1.5 Data Triangulation
The term has come to be associated with the practice of drawing on a variety of data sources, which
are cross checked with one another to limit the chances of bias in the methods or sources employed.
It is common practice to attempt to measure one particular variable using a variety of different methods, for example mixing statistical analysis with qualitative methods to gain further insight into reality on the ground (Grix 2010). Lucienne T.M. Blessing, Chakrabarti (2009) also state the possibility of
triangulation will be clarified, with the use of multiple sources and methods to gather evidence about a
particular phenomenon, so as to strengthen the evidence.
Data Triangulation allows you to receive confirmation of findings from various different sources that all
relate back to the same topic.
6.1.6 Validity
Validity, according to Cook and Campbell (2009), is the best available approximation to the truth or
falsity of propositions, including propositions about cause. Validity is an approximation because we can
never know for certain what is true.
Face validity:
A type of content validity, determining the suitability of a given instrument as a source of data on the
subject under investigation, using common-sense criteria. (Elsevier, 2011).
Concurrent validity:
A test or a measurement tool that is established by simultaneously applying a previously validated
tool or test to the same phenomenon, or database, and comparing the results. Concurrent validity is
achieved if the results are highly correlated (the same or similar) at a statistically significant level.
(Mosby, 2012)
Construct validity:
Refers to whether the scored of a test or instrument measure the distinct dimension (construct) they
are intended to measure. The present entry discusses origins and definitions of construct validation,
methods of construct validation, methods of construct validation, the role of construct validity evidence
in the validity argument, and unresolved issues in construct validity. (Salkind, NJS 2010)
6.1.7 Ethics & Access
Many professional organizations have developed codes of ethical practice to provide guidance on professional ethics and conduct, research is similarly subject to common agreements about ethical practice. All researchers are expected to work within the relevant guidelines to ensure that their research
is conducted ethically, and ethical considerations should be at the forefront of every research project.
(Crouch & Pearce 2012)

15

RIGHTS:
-
The rights of individuals who practice in research must be respected
-
How will confidentiality be ensured, and is confidentiality in any way limited?
-
What kind of informed consent is necessary? How will the information be used, and who will

have access to it?
-
Participants should understand the purpose and the importance of the research

Ethical considerations will inform research practices throughout the project.
6.1.8 Limitations
Limitations are influences that the researcher cannot control. They are the shortcomings, conditions or
influences that cannot be controlled by the researcher that place restrictions on your methodology and
conclusions. Any limitations that might influence the results should be mentioned. (Towson, MD 2010)

6.2 Proposed Research Design


6.2.1 Information required
The research objectives intend to explore sustainability within the fashion sector with the use of; Qualitative research, Primary and Secondary data, Data triangulation and Validity
-
Qualitative research will effectively be used to examine, qualities, perspectives, traits, characteristics, opinions and ideas. This type of research will be conducted through the use of interviews,
focus groups, group discussions and extensive research allowing the reader to develop and gain a
greater insight over the issues revolved around sustainability, ethics and transparency. When interviewing specific stakeholders researchers will be able to gain a greater insight and opinion over issues in
the fashion industry, this will strengthen and support arguments. This style of research will also limit
amount of bias and allow for diverse opinions.
-
Primary data will allow researchers to seek out and conduct their own investigations and studies
in attempt to gain answers on specific questions regarding area of discussion. Primary research allows
for greater control when considering sample size, information allocation and concentrating of specific
subjects. Focusing heavily on the use of qualitative data to compare and contrast opinions.
-
Secondary data will be another form of research used to analyze existing data, source through
past and present resources and compare and contrast different pieces of writing, limiting the amounts
of bias and being able to validate and triangulate reports and articles. This style of research will allow
for in depth views and opinions of sustainable practice, labour rights and the issues regarding sweat
shops.
-
Data Triangulation and Validity will be used to validate and justify pieces of writing and opinions from certified sources, this will allow the researcher to draw on a variety of data, which are cross
checked with one another effectively limiting the chances of any bias opinions. The method of data
triangulation will allow for the use of a variety of different methods to measure particular variables, for
example using statistical information and qualitative methods to gain further insight and depth.

6.2.2 Data Collection techniques


I envision to collect data via individuals, focus groups and in-depth interviews, I may also conduct surveys to be completed by entities of the general public / consumers ranging in demographic, related to
sustainability and ethics. This specific data will be collected throughout an extensive time period, enabling me to gain greater insight and depth on the view of my proposed research from primary sources.

16

I intend on gaining insight on the views and opinions of sustainability, ethics, child labour, eco clothing and the impact on which people believe are of concern. I anticipate to analyze focus groups of up
to 6 people, I will aim to work with two separate focus groups that consist of people with diverse age
groups, one with people of our youth and the second with a range of mothers, fathers, and/ or elderly
people so that I can effectively compare and contrast the difference in results and opinions/ view point
on current issues. Interviews that are to be conducted will be in-depth and concise, drawing on the issue of transparency and ethics, these interviews will be targeted at companies CEOs, industry buyers
and senior executives of a fashion company where I will gain a unique view of the industry.
See Appendix for survey Questions.

Focus group discussion:


1.

Would you as a consumer be more inclined to purchase if your product had been made
ethically?

In this instance most consumers would say YES, to develop discussion within the focus group a mix of
brand names that are effectively sustainable will be placed up on the board along with some companies
that currently do not adhere to ethics and sustainability. Consumers will than be advised to distinguish
between the two (sustainable and not sustainable) This type of activity will allow the researcher to develop and understand of weather consumers are actually aware of what products they are purchasing
and demonstrate if they can identify between the two. [Placards and images will be used]
2.

What is your opinion on sustainable clothing and eco clothing? And are you aware of
the effect that the production of fashion has on the globe?

A discussion will be developed over consumers opinions on what sustainability means to them and
weather they are knowledgeable about eco clothing, this discussion will allow the researcher to understand weather consumers are well informed or ill informed over the current issue.
3.

As a consumer what is your opinion on transparency within a company and would this
change the way you purchase?

This discussion will allow for the insight into weather consumer see transparency as a leading factor in
purchasing power or weather they are not phased.
4.


With the knowledge of sweat shops? (Show current photos of sweatshop practices)
What is your view point and how does this make you feel?
Would this change the way you purchase or would you rather a cheaply made garment
knowing the conditions they were made in?

These questions will attempt to develop a range of different views on how big of an issues consumers
see sweat shops to be, images will be shown to identify to consumers the conditions that developing
countries face. This will attempt to identify weather a consumer would happily continue purchasing
from a company that uses sweatshops or not.

6.2.3 Limitations
Throughout the duration of the research limitations may occur and will arise in different areas of the
proposed study. The researcher must take into account that getting in contact with or seeking out
stakeholders may pose as an issues and must be organized within a flexible time frame. Stakeholders
in many industries have very limited tine slots and scarce availabilities, so to ensure the right informa-

17

tion has been gathered a back up plan must also be organized. In this instance another authoritative
figure within the company may be interviewed. When targeting industry professionals bias opinions
must also be taken into consideration and the researcher should seek out the information from companies that follow different practices.
Sample sizes may also be a limitation as not everyone within a focus group will have a direct opinion,
resulting in bias answers. The researcher must remain organized when conducting times set for focus
groups and group discussions and time constraints can be an issues when bringing together a group of
people. It is also clear that the size of the consumer groups are limited to a certain number of individuals and this will just be an indication of opinions from small group, indicating that further research may
be required to increase validity.

6.2.4 Access
The way on which industry professionals will be contacted is via telephone, in attempt to secure dates
for when interviews can be conducted. Focus groups will be set for certain dates and individuals will be
scouted from RMIT University and the general public.

6.2.5 Ethical Procedures


Throughout the duration of the research ethical procedures must be adhered to, that involve written
consent by participants, commercial confidentiality and must meet current standards of behaviors.
The National Statement on ethical conduct in human research (2007) suggests that values are respected; research has merit, integrity and justice. Among the values that have been put into place, respect
is essential. It involves recognizing that each individual being has value in himself or herself, and that
this value must inform all interaction between one another. Although Research often generates ethical
dilemmas in which it may be impossible to find agreement on what is right or wrong. What must also
be considered in human research is the risks and benefits of research, and participants consent.

18

Presentation

Submission

Mentor meetings

Classes

Draft report completed

Editing week

On going literature review

Write up and analyse all findings

Collate data received from surveys

Collate data received from focus groups

Collate data received from interviews

Carry out focus groups

Carry out interviews with stakeholders

Print off questions for interviews / focus groups


and send out online surveys

Contact Individuals / consumers for focus groups

Contact Stakeholders ( arrange appointment)

Prepare questions for survey

Prepare questions for focus groups

Prepare questions for in depth interviews

Tasks to be completed
WK.1

WK.2

WK.3

WK.4

WK.5

WK.6

WK.7

WK.8

WK.9

WK.10

WK.11

WK.12

WK.13

WK.14

7.1
Gantt chart for Research Project

19

7.1. Gantt chart for Research Project


The proposed research will be conducted over a 14 week period starting from the preparation of interview questions and focus group discussions that will be used as a source of primary data and assist
towards the major project. This time line simply indicters and blocks out certain week periods when
the researcher will be allocating substantial time for different activities. Some critical areas within this
proposed time line will be the on going literature review, constant mentor meetings and classes. The
block out of these activities will allow the researcher to remain on top of tasks and remain effectively
time conscious, allowing certain areas to be conducted within sufficient time.
Time frames will be constantly monitored and looked over as this Gannt chart will allow for the researcher to monitor time constraints and limitations in association with the proposed research. The
allocated block out period distinguishes that there will be an entire week to seek out stakeholders and
broader audience for focus groups and interview periods where discussions will be carried out. Interviews and focus groups will be carried out over a two week period to allow for any rescheduling and
allow for flexibility. Towards the end of the project sufficient time will also be allocate d to editing and
drafting as the researching gets closer to the time of submission and begins to prepare for the final
presentation

7.2 Budget for Research Project

Activities associated with major project

Costs

Printing

Print out of whole report, including cover page,


surveys, interview questions and supporting documents / articles in relation to literature review =
$30

Catering

Food / snacks and drinks supplied at Focus group


meetings = $20

Travelling

Travelling to and from interviews, focus group


meetings = $25 (Petrol price)

Props

Props / garments that will be brought along to focus group meetings, demonstrating the difference
between eco fabrics and standard manufactured
clothing = $80

Binding

Free from RMIT University Brunswick campus

Placards

(Placards for focus groups) paper and printing


=$10

Total cost

Total cost for activities all up;


$30 + $20 + $25 + $80 + $10 = $165

20

8.

References

Brooks, Ethal C. 2007, Unravelling the garment industry: Transnational organizing and Womens Work.
Minneapolis, MN, and London: University of Minnesota Press.
Caniato, Caridi, Crippa, Moretto, 2011, Environmental sustainability in fashion supply chain: An exploratory case based research, Issue 1, Volume 135, Green Manufacturing and Distribution in the Fashion
and Apparel Industries, PP. 659-70
Carrigan, M, Attalla, A, 2001, The myth of the ethical consumer; do ethics matter in purchase behavious?, Journal of consumer Marketing, Vol. 18 No. 7, PP. 210-6
Chouinard & Brown , 1997, Going organic converting Patagonias cotton product line, Journal of Industrial Ecology.
Clarke and Clegg, 200 T. Clarke, S.Clegg, Chaning Paradign, Longman, Sydney (2000)
Cook TD, Campbell DT (1979) Quasi-experimentation: design and analysis issues for field
settings. Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston
Crouch, Pearce, 2012, Doing research in Design, Berg, Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, pp. 75-76
Develop a Research Proposal : Planning the Methodology Limitations and Delimitations, July 2013,
viewed 12 May 2015, <https://www.bcps.org/offices/lis/researchcourse/develop_writing_methodology_limitations.html>
Elsevier, 2011, Dorlands illustrated medical dictionary Philadelphia, Philadelphia, 12/05/2015,
Credo, <http://search.credoreference.com.ezproxy.lib.rmit.edu.au/content/entry/ehsdorland/face_
validity/0?searchId=459b83d3-f84c-11e4-bc6e-0aea1e24c1ac&result=0>
FINE, 2001, Fair Trade Definition and Principles, viewed on 24 may 2015, <www.befair.be/site/download.cfm?SAVE+ 1314&LG =1-FINE definition>
Gordon, Jennifer Farley Hill, Colleen, 2014, Sustainable Fashion: Labour Practices, London, Bloomsberry Publishing.
Grix, 2010, Palgraves study skills: The Foundation of Research, 2nd edn, Palgrave Macmillan, St Martins Press LLC.
Hoskins, 2015, Rana Plaza: are fashion brands responsible for those they dont directly employ? viewed
24 May 2015, <http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015/
apr/10/rana-plaza-are-fashion-brands-responsible-for-those-they-dont-directly-employ>
Joergens, C, 2006, Ethical Fashion: Myth or future trend?, Journal of Fashion Marketing and management, 360-71

21

Jonathan Grix, 2010, Palgraves study skills: The Foundation of Research, 2nd edn, Palgrave Macmillan,
St Martins Press LLC, pp. 172
Krause, D.R., Vachon, S. Klassen, R.D, 2009, Special topic forum on sustainable supply chain management: introduction and reflections on the role of purchasing management, Journal of Supply Chain
Management, Vol. 45, No. 4. ,Quoted in Conceptual framework development, CSR implemantation in
fashion supply chains, Perry & Towers, 2012
Lamberet, 2015, Bangladesh: has the situation improved two years after the Rana Plaza disaster?, viewed 24 May 2015, <http://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/news-room/
content/20150422STO43905/html/Bangladesh-has-the-situation-improved-two-years-after-the-RanaPlaza-disaster>
Landam, T. (2000) Issues and Methods in Comparative Politics: An Introduction, London: Routledge.
Lucienne T.M. Blessing, Chakrabarti, 2009, DRM a Design Research Methodology, PhD Faculty of Science, Technology and Communication, University of Luxembourg, Rectorat
Machosky, Michael, 2006, Vertical Integration The Pittsburgh Tribune Review, <http://www.americanapparel.net/presscenter/articles?20060213pittstrib.html> viewed 24 mayy 2015
Maher , SM 2014, How long must Rana Plaza workers wait for justice?, viewed 24 May 2015,<http://
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Mosby, 2012, Mosbys dictionary of Medicine Nursing & Health professions, Philadelphia, 12/05/2015,
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Myers, D, Stolton, S, 1999, Organic Cotton, From Field to final project, intermediate technology, London.
People Tree, 2009, Producers, <www.peopletree.co.uk/producers.php>
Perry, P, Towers, N, 2013, Conceptual Framework Development: CSR Implementation in fashion supply
chains, Emerald group publishing.
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trade, and the rights of garment workers, London: Verso, PP.135-43.
Robinson, 2004, Squarring the circle? Some thoughts on the idea of sustainable development, Ecological Economics, 48 (4) (2004), pp. 369-384
Ross, Andrew, ED, 1997, Introduction. No sweat: Fashion, Free trade, and rights of Garments Work-

22

ers, Verso: London, PP.9-39.


Rothstein, Richard, 2005, Defending Sweatshops: Too much logic, Too little Evidence Dissent Magazine Spring: 1-8
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Sirvastava, S.K. 2007, Green Supply chain management: a state of the art literature review, International Journal and management reviews.
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World Commission on Environment and Development, 1987 World Commission on Environment and
development, Oxford, University Press, Oxford

23

9.

Appendices

9.1 Interview questions:


Bellow are questions that will be asked throughout the duration of the researchers in depth interview,
in attempt to gain primary information on the topic of sustainability within the fashion industry

1.

What is your opinion on complete transparency within the supply chain?


[prompts] Is it viable in todays society?, Will this benefit developing countries?
Will this change the way manufacturers do business?

2.

What sort of regulations are in place to monitor manufacturing overseas?

3.

How do you ensure there is no child exploitation or use of sweatshops?

4.

How would you describe a sustainable supply chain?

5.

In your opinion what does it mean to transparent?

6.

What is your opinion on eco fashion and is it viable?

9.1.2 Full images featured in text


These images were used in sections throughout the beginning of the report, they are essentially a good
representation of the emotion and devastating circumstances for individuals in developing countries.
These images have been taken on the inside of sweatshops and gives a good representation and image
of bad practise;
Figure 1.0
This image displays the Rana Plaza building falling down after the employees re-joined their work on
April 24 morning. This image displays the lack of conscious effort to maintain levels of safe working
conditions.
Figure 1.1
Inconsolable, relatives of the dead and the missing still flock to Rana Plaza despite no hope of any
other survivor. The horrific look of grief on the individuals face displays how devastating the tragedy
was for the individuals.
Figure 1.2
This image is a good representation of an over crowded working space of over 1,129 workers, who are
left in hot crowed spaces that do not comply with current rules and regulations

24

Figure 1.3

Figure 1.4

25

Figure 1.5

Figure 1.6

26

9.1.3 Concept maps and Idea planning


The concept maps gave the researcher a good indication of what direction the proposed literature review was going to take. The different heading areas laid out the main areas of discussion and concern,
clearly clarifying and generating ideas and concepts to investigate. Throughout the initial stage of the
investigation the researcher used the mind maps to refer back to a grasp an idea of what path they
were going to take.

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