To construct the perfect Jimmy jig on any table saw

perfected by macduff and C. U. JMY.

Requiring less in stationary tools to do more
big is not always better, small can get the job done
macduff/c.u.jmy. 2013
Using 80/20 aluminum extrusions and custom linear motion pads, these pads can be custom made
with hardwood to match the slots in the 80/20 rails, fig # 1 and fig # 2

fig # 1

fig # 2

custom matched UHMW pads can be purchased on line with the 80/20 ( but hardwood will suffice,
machined on a router table) The linear motion pads are doubled keyed and F

fractions

fig # 3

F is 3/8in. (red)

fig # 3
is sized custom to 3/8in.all found under linear motion This will allow lee-way for the rails to by pass
with a wee bit of slack 3/32in.at the most, customized
between the pad and the rails

fig # 4
to have the rails on the jimmy jig ( when attached )higher by 3/32 above the rails on the side of the
table saw allowing clearance on the table saw top when the jimmy jig slides left and right over the saw
( all profiles are in the Co. catalogue on line) google 80/20 extrusions.

rmmc.net/8020/
4 rails 1504-LS 1.5 * 1.5 @ 48ins. Or R-1515-Lite 1.5 * 1.5 reversible if you make a mistake
2 rails 1504-LS 1.5 * 1.5 @ the width of you table saw plus 1/8in..
Linear motion pads UHMW coustom made F profile to be 3/8ins or self made of hardwood
2 @ 48ins
Fence, catalogue profile 30-30-s or 30-30 ls 3.00 * 3.00 1 @ 38ins. less or greater

80/20 - 4 bolt attachement to table saw ends

4- 5/16in 3/4in bolts fig # 5 and 6

OJJ at full extension on the 80/20 rails

which bolt to the ends of the table saw

Attach the small rails to the ends of the table saw with 5/16in or 1in. Special bolts from the
catalogue with a nut and locking washer, drill at least two predetermined 7/16th. holes in the table saw
ends, missing any ribs in the casting and in a position to make the rail slightly above the table saw top,
the 7/16th hole will allow movement before tightening the bolt. The rail will be placed central on the
saw ends, taking note of the added 1/8in or greater to the length for the side rails to clear the side of the
table saw when bolted together with the right angle brackets

Fig 7, 8 and 9

Place the side rails to the rails on the end with right angle corner brackets, 4 required, from the
catalogue (15 series # 3364 ) spaced equal distance on the saw side edges, at right angles and dead
parallel ( this is very important ) tighten with Allan keys. Check that all rails are slightly above the
saw top. On the ends of the long rails tap the centre hole with a 5/16 tap, size a 1 * 1 in. soft wood
and bolt to the end of the rails, check the parallel at both ends.
Furnish the OJJ from 1/2in. multi core plywood or metric equivalent, covered on both sides with
laminate. The aperture is formed by two sides and two ends, sized to, with the blade at full extension
plus 2 1/2in to allow easy passage to the blade for a distance of 49ins. (Blade will be in a central
position with in the aperture.) Left and right in side the aperture.

Fig # 10

The long inside edges of the aperture have to be stop rabbetted to 3/8in. By half the thickness of the
laminated covered plywood, which allow the inserts to slide inside the aperture as the saw kerf is also
formed in the inserts.
{ Depending on the size of your table top and the position of the blade in the table top, measuring from
the front to the back of the saw with the rails and pads temporary in place with clamps, allowing an
overhang of 1/2in over the front rail on the jimmy jig with the same or greater over the back rail for a
jimmy jig width of 30 ins or greater, to find the actual size of each of the sides and ends of a jimmy jig,
this will depend on the size of your table saw top and placement of the blade there on.}

Fig 11 and

12

The jimmy jig is about 5ft.2 ins long and 30ins wide constructed from two sides and two ends
forming the aperture. The ends one 5in wide and the other 7ins are joined to the sides with biscuits,
glued and clamped together to form the jimmy jig sliding support platform, (the resulting aperture is
the width of the inserts to which the inserts are mated to the rabbet on the sides of the aperture. The
plywood is covered with laminate on both sides first, also the 3/8in rabbet are stop routered, to allow
the postion of the buscuits in a square edge, make sure all biscuit slots are level when mating.

Fig # 13
Fig # 14
The inserts are 3/4in wider than the finished aperture width this allows for the 3/8in.rabbet
the panels that mke up the OJJ are biscuit jointed, glued and clamped together.
see Fig # 10
See Fig's # 2 4 and 8 There has to be 3/32nd play between the mating rails, one on the table saw,
the other on the underside of the jimmy jig, and the linear motion pad (or this made from hardwood on
a router) (Designate all pictures as figures and refer back to this picture because you have covered this
before but it is an important factor and necessary check to make before moving on ) This pad is
machined to lift the rails on the underside of the jimmy jig allowing 3/32nd clearance above the rail on
the side of the table saw, ( eliminating friction between the rails ) the jimmy jig slides only on the linear
motion pad. These pads can be custom made as above from the company

rmmc.net/8020/

Check the rails on the saw for dead parallel and all bolts are bolts tight . The linear motion pads
have to be glued to the saw rails with a thin bead of Sikaflex (give names of similar caulkings ie
silicone etc) caulk in the top corner of the pad, then a spacer of 3/32nd is added between the pad and
the OJJ rail, lightly clamp the formed frame together with 4 clamps across the width of the saw, leave
clamped for 8hrs. See Fig # 5 Clamp a 1/2in. Spacer to the front rail, this will allow the over hang
at the front of the jimmy jig, . Mate to this spacer when placing the jimmy jig on the frame centrally
placed. Before hand , apply a thin bead of Sikaflex in the centre to the outside rails and place the
assembled jimmy jig carefully on the caulking and weighted down. Leave for 8hrs.

C U. JMY. Handle from a web clamp

sizing the pannels for an OJJ
FIG # 15 AND 16
The clamp to the side of the jimmy jig was created from the handle of a web clamp and to the front
edge of the handle an aluminum 3/4in. angle extrusion 12ins. Long.
The angle was screwed to the front of the web clamp to act as t-bar.and measured to be 1/8in below
the 1/2in.overhang, with an 1/8in space against the rail on the jimmy jig to allow by pass, to the leading
edge of the t-bar add a strip of electrical tape to prevent rubbing of the two surfaces This clamp has to
be attached to a 1/4in or greater alumimium plate screwed to the under side of the saw rail and wide
enough to take the web handle which in turn is bolted to the plate, and placed just under the 1/2in over
lap of the jimmy jig with the t-bar in place. Place the clamp and plate about six inches, less or greater
to the left of the fence this is important when placing the tape for the cursor on the t-bar see (Fig # 15
and 17) at the cursor point

Fig # 17 and 18
To the front edge is applied a stick on tape in conjunction with the t-bar and the cursor mark, you don't
want the handle under the fence when at zero. The the cursor is marked on a piece of electrical tape.
(Refer again to the left picture above as figure # what ever it becomes in picture numbers.)
The fence is attached with two thin beads of Sikaflex, set dead parallel to the blade and over rides
the 5in end by 2ins. over the end of the aperture, this allows the inserts with a saw kerf and guard close
contact with the fence. Other inserts are fashioned at the same time as the 5 and 7in. ends, plus 3/8ins.
By 2 to match the rabbets on the long sides

Fig # 19 and 20

Fig # 21 shows blade parallel to the fence

Fig # 22 shows the air operated on and off switch
Note the air operated switch should be attached to the top of the fence not on the end
Pictures will be made available of the splitter, guard and anti-kick back devices that are placed up front
and over head of the blade or cutting tool.

Fig # 23, 24 and 25 guard

splitter

whole show

Remember to paste wax all outside running parts of the linear pads if they are made for hardwood. And
use thin double sided tape to attach the linear pads to the inside rails for a trial run before actually
gluing them with sikaflex.

See Fig # 2

and 8

To finish the two ends and the back edge of the jimmy jig 1/2in *1/2in angle aluminum is screwed to
the said edges.

Aluminium
on 2 edges

and the back

tape to front

Alternate to the custom pads (to raise the jimmy jig rails off the table saw rails) you can add a 3/32nd
spacer to the jimmy jig rails (sikaflex) and still use the custom pads from the company and or router
your own straight profile. This will cancel the need to raise the rail that is attached to the jimmy jig
See Fig # 2
UPDATE An air operated on and off switch is attached on top at the front of the fence
See Fig # 22
After purchase of the Original Jimmy Jig you will receive high resolution pictures by e-mail as a
follow up in conjunction with these instructions, providing all the the up front safty features position
wher they make more sense Doing things right
C. U. JMY./macduff 2013
Disclaimer: the original jimmy jig/the piggie-back/with the OZ downunder multiple power tool
support frame and/or any additions
there on and James N. McCombie are not liable in in whole or in part for any
personal injury or
property damage to any person or property whosoever or whatsoever or for any
special, indirect or
consequential damages or any damages of any kind however arising, out of the
operation of or in
connection with this product. Any fitness for purpose or express or implied
warranity are expressly
disclaimed