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The 30-

something
issue
Welcome Who’s
to your 30s: that Girl?
A roundtable discussion How Big Retail Chains
with New York’s top female are targeting the
movers and shakers. “new” 30-year-old.

Coming out Tips from


of Hibernation: the Pros:
Fashion ideas to inspire and Over 30 pages of
get you out of your winter rut. insider tips and links
for clothing, beauty,
home decor, cooking,
My Poorly fitness, books, the
Drawn Life: arts and more!
At home with Comic Book
Artist Tania del Rio. Spring 2010
Spring 2010

contents 15
12 8 Contributors

9 Letter from the Editor

In Every Issue
10

Essentials Spring’s essentials
items by blogger Cassandra LaValle.

12

Coverings Top dress picks of the
season by Denver dilletant May Wilson.

14

Furnishings The lates trends in home decor
by shop owner and blogger Annie Crowninshield.

16

Vanities Beauty Expert, Andrea Ducharme’s working
girl’s guide to spring makeup.

18

Vanities Makeup artist, Ann Marie Laurendeau, selects
the latest products to look your best this spring.

10 20

Eats Real estate broker and part-time foodie, Michelle Mckenna,
shows us how to cook in season.

18

p sloane / spring 2010


Spring 2010

116
contents
In Every Issue
88

READS Book Reviewer, publicist and journalist, Jocelyn Kelley,
recommends what’s new in print.

90

Rants Amber West tells it like it is. This issue she takes on a tall
drink of a certain warm obsession...

92

SWEATS Mariel McNaughton reports on what’s hot in fitness.
This issue, let go of your fear of weights with BODYPUMP.

116

LUSTs Publisher, Dana Córdova’s lusts of the season.
Because, well, we all want things...

33
Features
24

Welcome to your Thirties A round table discussion
about the benefits of saying goodbye to your twenties.

28

Who’s that Girl? Retailers rejigger selections and concepts
to capture the 30-something shopper.

33

The Eye of the Beholder The history of the ideals of beauty
from the strange, painful, absurd and even deadly.

92 88
p sloane / spring 2010
Publisher / Editor Dana Córdova
Spring 2010
Design / Photo Editor Dana Córdova
Assistant Editor Colleen Reilly
Marketing Rachel Texeira

contents
Technical Advisor Luke Peters

Special Thanks / Unofficial Advisory Board:


Raul Córdova, Casey Hatchett, Vanessa Peck,
Ben Tregoe, Adam Wynne

Advertising Sales:
advertising@sloanemag.com
40 Fashion
Interested in Getting Involved?
Please send your idea pitch to 40

Hibernation’s End Relaxed boho layers to carry you through
chilly mornings, warm afternoons and out on the town.
editorial@sloanemag.com with the
subject line: Ideas for the urbane.
58

Belgian Beauties The young women of Brussells teach us how
to look chic on a dime by mixing unique vintage pieces.
Join the Mailing List!
mail@sloanemag.com
72

SpringFling Wake yourself, and your mate, up from a winter
slumber and slip into these light and flirty lingerie pieces.
© 2010 sloane

Usage, mention or reproduction of any content


within this publication MUST link back to:
www.sloanemag.com (basically, this means:
Arts, Interviews, Essays
we’d love for you to talk about sloane, but just
be courtious, give us credit and a link.) 95

Arts Behind the scenes with New York art’s writer, Jennifer Guinn.
This issue: explore the Whitney Bienniel 2010 & New York Art Fairs.

102

My Poorly Drawn Life Sloane goes inside the home of comic
artist Tania del Rio.

Usage License: Attribution-Noncommercial-


No Derivative Works 3.0 United States,
108

Reflections It’s the Worst Thing Getterly Old?
by Ginna Christensen.
Creative Commons.

To Share: to copy, distribute and transmit the


work under the following conditions:
Attribution: You must attribute the work in the
109

Reflections Making Friends, Yoga Style, by Marique Newell.
Sometimes reaching out can be more rewarding than you think.

manner specified by the author or licensor (but

111
not in any way that suggests that they endorse
you or your use of the work).
Reflections Thirty-fried, by Leala C. Munson.
Noncommercial: You may not use this work for The frazzeled working girl gets a reality check.
commercial purposes.
No Derivative Works: You may not alter, trans- 95

114
form, or build upon this work. Reflections Proper Ventilation, By Joanne Colan.
Just, breathe.

p sloane / spring 2010 p sloane / spring 2010


contributors letter from the editor
sloane was born from 19 years of my and utilize sloane as a resource and
life and 1 moment of insanity. guide to all-things-useful online.

At age 13, I saw my first issue of The Spring 2010 inaugural edi-
Sassy magazine and knew I wanted tion—the 30-Something Issue—
to create a publication of my own. assembles some truly fantastic writ-
Flash forward to age 32: 8+ years ers, photographers and profession-
in the publishing and contemporary als to give their take on the concept.
art world, 1+ year of marriage and, An in depth look at how major retail-
reflecting on where I’ve been and ers are targeting the new moneyed
where I’d like to go, I decided NOW 30-something, to an intruiging over-
was my time. view of the ideals of beauty through-
out the ages, to ways in which we
Freed of publishing costs, logistics can remember to stop our busy lives
Born and raised in Berkeley, CA. Elkie Vanstiphout was born and An accomplished member of the fash- Dana Córdova and overhead—and, thanks to ad- and breath; endless fashion spreads,
Chloe got her MFA in Film Produc- raised in a very small town in Bel- ion and entertainment industries, Car- Editor/Publisher vances in technology—there truly beauty tips, over 200 shopping links
tion from USC and quickly found gium, in which she still spends her rie Mitchell enjoys a diverse career as seems to be no time like the pres- and more...
she loved taking still photos more days taking pictures and making mu- a writer and producer, spanning New ent. In creating my vision for the
than working on moving ones. For sic. For Belgian Beauties, Elkie and York, Toronto, Vancouver, Shanghai magazine I considered what I liked For, Welcome to your Thirties, Car-
Spring Fling Chloe went on loca- her sister, stylist Suzie Vanstiphout, and Paris. She currently covers all and didn’t like about the maga- rie Mitchell gathered together a
tion in the desert outside Los An- created sophistocated images using things style, while photographing and zines stacked up beside my bed. great (albeit annonymous) group of
geles to shoot images that capture only affordable clothing and the am- travelling whenever she can. In truth, I love ALL magazines, all powerful New Yorker’s to offer their
the warmth and freedom of spring. bience of the streets of Brussels. www.stylegroove.com types, all styles. They are these won- take on what they love about being
www.chloeaftel.com. www.ellequi.com derful little creations filled with end- in their 30s. This particular piece re-
less interest. My friends will tell you ally spoke to me, given where I am in
I read every caption, note and even my life, and from being surrounded
the index. Fashion, health, design, by women who feel the same as they
fitness, current events...but, they are do. We are not our mothers’ daugh-
all in so many different places and so ters, we are not 25 (although we just
often depict people and things with might look it!), we don’t accept the
which I don’t often identify...some “settle-down” ideas of the past and
too young, some too mature, others we are changing the idea of “Happily
too high brow and others too low. Ever After” every day.
I hope that you will find sloane is
just right. This is what sloane is about. A place
that combines the youthfulness you
Thus, my curatorial skills came in still possess with the self-possession,
handy. sloane is in so many ways, a achievement and confidence you
grand exhibition—a zeitgeist, a col- never had when you were in your
Felicity Byrne is a freelance photog- Suzie Vanstiphout attended art Caletha Crawford is a veteran writer lection of life in progress. I hope that 20s. Please enjoy and be inspired.
rapher and photo editor living in Los school where she specialized in paint- who has covered fashion and retail you will find inspiring articles, fun
Angeles. She has a degree in pho- ing and drawing. Her favorite hobby for consumers and market insid- fashion and beauty ideas, beautiful I present to you, my firstborn.
tography from Art Center College of was always playing dressup—from ers for more than 10 years. In ad- photography, thoughtful pieces to
Design. Her work has appeared in spending hours composing outfits dition to being the editor in chief make you pause and ideas to stay
Dazed and Confused, Vibe, and Flaunt for herself and customizing afford- of Earnshaw’s magazine, she shares healthy. I encourage you to notice
Magazine. For Hibernation’s End Felic- able dresses, to helping style photo constructive and destructive critiques that, (wherever possible) we have
ity created beautiful photgraphs using shoots for friends. She now devotes of her favorite television shows at created useful links for shopping
natural light and a simple home set- all her time to fashion styling. blamethedvr.wordpress.com. She also resources and background infor-
ting that feel real and relatable. writes for AskMichaelCohen.com and mation on articles. Please consider
www.felicitybyrne.com the forthcoming TheAtlantaPost.com.

p sloane / spring 2010 p sloane / spring 2010


7

1
2

3 6. Selima sunglasses $288 If you’re going to go retro­—go


classic retro. These clear-rimmed sunglasses from add the per-
fect amount of cool for beach or boulevard time.

7. Dash & Albert Throws $58 A lightweight throw


in washed out stripes is perfect for picnics in the park or
summer nights on the front porch. A cotton version like
this one ensures the easy breezy lifestyle.

By the time a new season approaches, I’ve usually already 8. CB2 Tumblers $3.95 (each) Pick up a few brightly
spent months sorting through new styles and trends (some colored glasses for refreshing cocktails, invite your friends
of which seem to pass before they’ve even begun) to end up over, and enjoy the fabulous weather!
with an overall look that mixes my classically inspired approach
to design. For spring and summer, I’ve built my must-haves 9. J. Crew Panama Hat $58 This year’s must-have acces-
around a relaxed, washed out beach style that incorporates sory is the fedora. For me, I prefer the more classic shape
pops of neon for a punch of fun... and color like this one. It makes a trend seem less ubiqui-
8
tous and more like you’ve been doing it all along.
1. Heidi Merrick Linen Dress $ Nothing says summer more
to me than a little white linen dress. The bohemian sleeves and 10. CB Perfume “At The Beach 1966” $70 Because I’m
neon stitch in this piece are pure genius! a California beach girl at heart, the smell of Coppertone oil
and ocean breezes makes for the best perfume I can imagine.
2. Urban Outfitters Outdoor Side Table $38 Cassandra Lavalle began her career in event
You can’t expect to enjoy the sunshine without a cool planning in 2002, moving into interior design in
drink in your hand and a table to set it on! 2007 when she began her then blog (now business)
4 coco+kelley. Exploring trends in fashion, decor, and
3. Kendra scott Ring $75 I never leave entertaining, coco+kelley has received praise and
home for the evening without a fabulous cock- recognition from publications like Martha Stewart,
tail ring, and neither should you. This year I’m crav- Lucky Magazine, and the New York Times. Cassan-
5 ing the natural texture of turquoise set in shiny gold to contrast dra lives in Seattle, WA where she also works as a
my softer wardrobe. It always makes a statement and is sure to Home Merchandiser for Anthropologie.
start a conversation.

4. Sigerson Morrison Sandals $220 Metallic shoes are


a staple in my wardrobe because they absolutely go with
everything, anywhere, all the time. The cutout detail on
these flats adds a beautiful ethnic twist.
9
5. H&M Denium Jacket $ Yes, it’s true. Denim is
back. But, while I simply cannot imagine myself in
denim button-ups, bustiers, or dresses, there’s no
way to deny a classic jean jacket. James Dean would
be so proud.
10

p10 sloane / spring 2010 p11 sloane / spring 2010


6 9

2
1. Vivienne Westwood, $575 Maybe its my east coast 8. Milly, $316 Ever since I saw the
roots, but I am a sucker for nautical stripes and this season we Hérmes chain pattern I have cov-
can all love them together because they are everywhere. I love eted all things chain linked...except
that this dress is not your typical stripe and is very flattering for fences. This dress is no exception.
those who are frightened by horizontal stripes.
9. Banana Republic, $79.50
2. Halston Heritage, $895 I am new to this line, but I like I love hunting down a deal for
what I see. This dress connects with my inner hippy (VERY in- the season and this is it for me.
ner). Think big gold chunky bracelet, some gold hoops and a Oprah’s stylist said we all have to
comfortable pair of flats. have a spicy color for the Spring
and he is right...they look good on
3. Missoni, $775 Oh Missoni how you have hurt my bank ac- EVERYONE! Check out the detail
countant, but they never go out of style. This season I am col- around the collar...love.
lecting my spare change and swearing off Starbucks so that
I can have one of my very own. This season and beyond.
7 10. DVF, $220 Two of the big buzz words
for this Spring are floral and abstract prints.
4. Alexander Wang, $595 You will see a lot of these ruched I have always had trouble getting my head
dresses this season. They look very intimidating on around both of these trends, but this DVF dress
the hanger, but take a deep breath and try it on! This style hides works for me. I especially love the waist wrap so
a multitude of sins and will make you feel sexy...I promise. it doesn’t end up looking like a muumuu.
1
5. Lotta Stensson, $135
When I see this dress I dream
of farmer markets, flip flops and
big sunglasses. There is noth-
10
ing more comfortable then 4
a great jersey floor length May Gardner Wilson currently resides in
dress for Spring errands. Denver, CO working on decorating projects
ranging from pillow fluffing to home re-mod-
8
6. Rebecca Taylor, $325 els. She also is involved with a variety of local
The little girl in me will always and international charities. Prior to Denver,
love ruffles. I love the idea of a May worked as a designer with Charlotte
little tan, silver accessories and a Moss in New York City. Her pride and joy
great pair of wedges (see Jimmy is her pug Lola who patiently observes
3
Choo this season!). her constant desire to look her best!

7. Philip Lim, $350 When I


started seeing Phillip Lim in the
magazines, I was not blown
away. To see it in person is to
love it. The rouching detail on
the chest is a very flattering.
This is a great day to evening
transition dress this Spring.

5
p12 sloane / spring 2010 p13 sloane / spring 2010
4 Two’s company, $195

1 Downtown, (contact dealer for price)

5 williams sonoma, $450

Annie CROWNINSHIELD is a Boston native who


was born into a family of pioneering modernists.
2 PB Teen, $149
Trained as an artist in France and Mexico, she
eventually entered the world of interior design. Af-
ter starting her own online sofa company in 2005,
she became partner of Empiric Inc. in Los Angeles,
CA where she dedicates her time contributing to
their growing line of new and vintage home fur-
nishings. She also writes the lifestyle blog relishs-
mallpleasures.blogspot.com

As functional household objects


or simply items of decor, the history of mir-
rors is long and ever evolving. Increasingly
important in many aspects of design and
architecture, these eye catching scalloped
mirrors are no exception. An organic de-
parture from the recent trend in sunburst
mirrors, these lend a softer silhouette to the
modern, contemporary, and eclectic interi-
ors of today.

6 Target, $249.99

3 Empiric, $275
p14 sloane / spring 2010 p15 sloane / spring 2010
Once again spring is here and it is time to renew, re-
invent and refresh your wardrobe and makeup. This season,
I have been asked by many of my professional clients this ques- • NARS Torrid Blush: Slightly pink, bright peach
tion: “How do I translate the bold, and in some cases downright tone with a hint of shimmer
over the top, looks featured on the runways into a workable • MAC Shroom Eyeshadow: Simply the perfect
look?” Of course, as a makeup artist I am completely smitten allover ivory shadow with a satin texture
with the matte fuchsia lip, just not sure if it will fly for the work- • Paula Dorf Eyeshadow in Wet Sand: A great
ing girl at her next risk-reduction presentation at the office. Well, matte warm brown to define the crease
why not sneak some strategically placed SHEER pops of color • Stila Smudgepot in Cobalt: A stay all day gel
in with your favorite neutrals? After all, a girl can still be stylish liner in the perfect 80’s blue, can be softened
while she is conquering the corporate jungle. and smudged but never budges
• NARS Niagra Lipstick: The perfect Pink-Coral
Lips • NARS Schiap Lipstick: A beautiful matte pink
Cherry red, fiery orange, hot fuchsia and neon pink lipsticks • Bareminerals Buxom Lipgloss In Krystal:
call out to you from the spring makeup displays, but how do A clear lipgloss with a plumper built into the formula
you wear these shades to the weekly management meeting and
be taken seriously? Simple. Put on the bold lip color, blot down
and top with a clear lip gloss. Now pair it with a classic nude
eye shadow, two coats of mascara, add a swirl of a matte pinky-
peach blush to the apples of your cheeks and you are ready to
rule the boardroom. Image: Spring 2010 Versace via Style.com Image: NARS

Eyes
This go-to technique is a sure bet to brighten your eyes while still
looking professional when crunching numbers. Take a neutral
ivory shadow all over the lid, add a matte warm peachy brown
into the crease, now add a smudge of whatever jewel tone shade
you want along the upper lash-line. It is a surprisingly chic way
to wear the candy-colored shadows seen at Bryant Park while
presenting your latest ad campaign on Madison Avenue.

Cheeks
I ADORE the Spring 2010 Nars Collection featuring Amber Valetta
channelling Catherine Deneuve goddess with majorly contoured
bright coral cheekbones. However I realize this will look over-
done in the workplace, so here is my solution. If you simply have Andrea Ducharme has been working in the
to have wear the bright cheek color, skip the contour all together. makeup industry for over 18 years, and has had
Simply smile and swirl the coral or pink blush on your apples, the pleasure and honor to represent Clinique,
then dip your blush brush into a translucent powder and go over Estee Lauder, Trish McEvoy and MAC Cosmetics.
the cheeks to soften the look even more. Who says you can’t be She has received many awards and acknowledg-
flush with success while looking fabulous? ments, including being named one of Boston’s
five top makeup artists by Fashion Boston Maga-
Image: Michael Thompson via www.allure.com zine. While managing Rouge Cosmetics in Salem, Image: Elle.com
MA the boutique was awarded the prestigious
“Best of Boston for Makeup Shopping” by Boston
Magazine. She also works with several Boston
celebrities to ensure they look their best at their
personal appearances.

p16 sloane / spring 2010 p17 sloane / spring 2010


8
6

1. Perricone MD Nutritive Cleanser $60 This luxuri- 7. Clarins Joli Rouge Perfect Shine
ous cleanser removes impurities (dirt, oil & makeup) with- Sheer Lipstick $24
1 out stripping the skin of its vital moisture. Packed with an- This creamy textured lipstick instantly adds color
tioxidants and other anti-aging ingredients such as Alpha and shine to your lips. The long-lasting formula
Lipoic Acid and DMAE—proven to diminish the appear- keeps color true for hours after application.
ance of fine lines and improve skin’s overall texture. Coral shades are the most popular lip colors
for spring; if you are looking for a fun new
2. Estee Lauder Idealist Dual-Action color, try Melon.
Refinishing Treatment $50
2 Regular exfoliation is the best way to remove dead 8. Neutragena Healthy Skin Brighten-
skin cells and rejuvenate skin that feels dull and drab. ing Eye Perfector SPF 25 $13.99
This finely grained scrub is ultra gentle, yet works This incredible illuminator highlights and brightens your
9
perfectly to reveal healthy skin cells. It will leave you complexion while working miracles on skin imperfections. Wear
with a soft glow. as a light-weight concealer or as a highlighter under the eye-
brows. High-tech formula contains SPF 25 for added protection
3. DHC Skincare Velvet Skin Coat $21 against harmful sun rays. 7
Face primers are the secret weapon used by profes-
sional makeup artists to achieve a flawless and more 9. Sonia Kushuk Perfecting Liquid Makeup $10.49
youthful complexion. This unique, non-greasy, gel Don’t be fooled by cost, this lightweight liquid foundation offers
primer greatly enhances your skin’s overall appear- many of the benefits of foundations with a much higher price.
ance and extends the wear-time of foundation. After A few pumps of this product will provide your skin with an
3
one use you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. invisible, natural-looking dewy finish and moderate coverage.

4. Anemone Makeup Anti-Aging Moisturizer 10. CoverGirl Volume Blasting Mascara $8.99
$24.00 (available 7/1/10) Exclusive volume-boosting formula and ultra full brush
This light-weight lotion is specifically formulated to lengthens and separates lashes without clumping, flaking
4 correct the appearance of aging by stimulating collagen or smudging, creating the long and full lashes you have
production and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and always desired. Removes easily with a mild cleanser and
wrinkles. Natural green and white tea extracts work day and water. Hypoallergenic and suitable for contact lens wearers.
night to help skin retain moisture.
10
5. Senna Cosmetics Sheer Glow Eye Color $16.50
This sheer powder eye shadow provides intensely rich color as it Ann Marie Laurendeau is a makeup artist,
glides on effortlessly, and it doesn’t crease or fade. Semi-opaque hair stylist, educator, and writer with more than 20
color and light-reflective finish enhance eyes to their years experience. In 1995 she founded Anemone
maximum potential. (If you are searching for Makeup and in 2006 launched her own line of all-
a pretty champagne color try Glossamer.) natural, mineral-based cosmetics which includes
makeup and skin care products. Throughout her
6. M.A.C. Mineralize Blush $21 career, Ann Marie has provided makeup and hair-
This gorgeous luminous powder blush contains all the styling for many well-known corporate clients, ce-
benefits of pure minerals. It seamlessly glides across lebrities, and public figures. Based in Boston, she
your cheeks without streaking, resulting in the same frequently travels throughout New England, New
sheer healthy glow you achieve from a brisk walk! York and beyond for media, destination weddings,
and events.

p18 sloane / spring 2010 p19 sloane / spring 2010


Heat a very large, preferably a cast-
iron skilet over a high flame. Add 1/4
cup of oil and heat for a moment.
Add the leeks and a big pinch of salt
and fry, turning only very occasional-
ly, until they are mostly deep brown.
Remove about two tablespoons of
them two paper towels and season 1/2 cup blanched almonds Whatever you don’t use, you can It helps them last longer, they look
with salt. As they cool, the should 1/4 cup chopped red onion freeze (delicious over pasta). Line a pretty in your kitchen and they are
become crisp. 1/2 teaspoon chopped and ice cube tray with plastic wrap and right there ready to use.
seeded serrano chile fill in the individual cube spaces with
Return the pan to a medium flame 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt the pesto. Freeze and remove from Adapted from Herbivoracious
(with the rest of the leeks still in it), 1/4 cup olive oil the ice tray, put in a sealed freezer bag
and deglaze the pan with 1 cup of 1 tablespoon of lemon juice for future use. NEED INSPIRATION?
water, scraping well to get all the fla- Check out these recipes with salivating
vorful bits. Add the morita peppers In a food processor, pulse the cilan- Quick Tip photography: www.tastespotting.com
and the honey and whisk. Reduce tro, almonds, onion, chile, and salt Using fresh herbs can add another lev-
heat to a bare simmer and cook until well blended. With the food el of flavor. I love adding them to sal- Cool New Food Site:
five minutes, adding more water if processor running, slowly add the ads and pasta. When you bring your www.pictorymag.com/showcases/
needed. olive oil in a steady stream. Add herbs home from the grocery store local-flavor
toasted in a dry skillet more oil as needed for your use. wash them and put them in a vase
Featured Recipe 1 tablespoon honey Using a fine sieve and pressing well, Makes about 1 cup. with water to keep fresh all week.
of the Season: 2 organic eggs transfer the liquid to a very small
Creamy Grits with Crispy 2 ounces queso fresco or other saucepan and keep warm. Dispose
Leeks, Cilantro Pesto, cheese of your choice of the solids. Reduce or add liquid
Queso Fresco, and Sunny as necessary to produce a thin jus
Side Up Egg Bring the 3 cups of water and 1 cup with just a hint of body. Taste and
of milk to a boil. Whisk in the polen- adjust seasoning. We’d like a bal-
Getting together for brunch has al- ta in a thin stream, stirring continu- ance of savory from the leeks, salt,
ways been a favorite tradition with ously. smoke and heat, and sweetness
my friends. This recipe is a nice tran- from the honey.
sition from winter to spring, a little Add a couple big pinches of salt. Re-
southern take on breakfast using duce to a simmer. Cook for about 45 In a non-stick skillet, fry off two eggs.
delicious mexican ingredients. (Your minutes, stirring occasionally. You Cover so that the whites cook while
favorite sausage can also be added will notice a distinct change where the yolk remains runny.
for a heartier meal.) they go from being “gritty” to creamy.
Add more water as necessary if they To serve, put a helping of the grits
Serves 2 are getting dry before that happens. in each bowl and make a well. Fill
INGREDIENTS Anytime after they turn creamy, they the well with the egg. Top with the
3 cups water are ready to serve. Taste and add salt crispy leeks and pour a couple table-
1 cup whole milk as needed. spoons of the jus around the edge.
1 cup polenta Add a tablespoon or so of the pesto
(or grits essentially the same thing) Meanwhile, make the Cilantro Pesto and a small piece of queso fresco.
1/4 cup canola oil in a food processor, pulse until it
3 leeks, white parts only, halved forms a coarse, pesto-like consis- Cilantro Pesto
lengthwise, cleaned and thinly sliced tency. You might need a little more INGREDIENTS
2 morita peppers or other smoked oil. Taste and adjust salt. Makes 2 cups, packed, of cilantro,
pepper of your choice, briefly about one cup. large stems removed

p20 sloane / spring 2010 p21 sloane / spring 2010


New Staple Recipe
Ina Garten’s Mexican
Chicken Soup

Today with the internet at our finger People all over the country are realizing all the ben-
tips there are thousands of recipes to efits of eating locally. More nutritious and flavorful
choose from it makes it overwhelm- fruits and vegetables plus you support your local
ing to pick out a recipe and how do farmers. Find out where there are farmers markets
you know which one is better than near you: www.localharvest.org
another? This is a great quick meal,
that’s makes a big batch to have
all week long. I bought a rotisserie
chicken and shredded the chicken
to save time. The easiest way to Winter
shread chicken is to use two forks Chestnuts, Grapefruit, Lemons, Oranges
and pull the meat apart. Don’t skimp Tangerines, Kale, Leeks, Radicchio
on the toppings they take the soup Radishes, Rutabaga, Turnips
to whole new level!
Spring
Apricots, Avocado, Mango, Pineapple
Rhubarb, Strawberries, Artichoke, Asparagus
Carrots, Celeriac, Chives, Collards
Fava Beans, Fennel, Fiddlehead Ferns, Morels
Mustard Greens, New Potatoes, Spinach
Spring Baby Lettuce Mixes, Sugar Snap
and Snow Peas, Vidalia Onions, Watercress

Summer
Blackberries, Blueberries, Nectarines, Peaches
Plums, Raspberries, Tomatoes, Watermelon
Beets, Broccoli, Chinese Cabbage, Corn
Cucumber, Eggplant, Garlic, Green Beans
Summer Squash, Zucchini

Fall
Apples, Cranberries, Figs, Grapes, Pears
Pomegranate, Quince, Acorn Squash, Belgian
Endive. Butternut Squash, Cauliflower, Celeriac
Garlic, Ginger, Mushrooms, Parsnips, Potatoes
Pumpkin, Sweet Potatoes, Swiss Chard

Source: www.hubpages.com

Michelle Mckenna currently lives in Boston,


working at a real estate firm selling high-end
residential homes. She has always thought of
cooking as a way to bring people together and
considers it a form of expression, not a chore.
Her love of food began as a child cooking with
her mother and grew after a semester abroad in
Venice, Italy while earning her BFA from Boston
University. Most days you will likely find her read-
ing a cookbook on the “T” rather than the Wall
p22 sloane / spring 2010 Street Journal.
find yourself in a progressive and down guards, exposing your battle an who is married with kids, I will
positive state of mind, you can be scars, and admitting you don’t know show you five who are not but liv-
any age you feel you want to be. Do everything. There is tremendous ing extremely full lives. I have come
not submit to an age category box! freedom in that. In my 30’s it was as to know couples in fantastic rela-
I am not here to stereotype or though the flood-gates opened and tionships, but even more who have
judge those younger than I, especially truth started to spill from the mouths channeled dreams of prince/prin-
because I know some spectacularly of my friends as we stopped our cess charming into fantasies of their
wise teenagers and 20-something’s, judgmental tendencies and finally own making. Do we want to have it
some disastrous 30 & 40 year olds, saw each other for everything we all? Yes. Will we survive with out it?
By Carrie Mitchell and of course, brilliant, youthful and have in common as women. It is im- Yes. But now is the time to decide
Illustration by Kristian Goddard inspiring women in their 60’s, 70’s
and 80’s. The frivolity of those earlier
portant to maintain perspective, and
not get lost in the details because
what you can and can’t live without.
I am lucky in my life to be sur-
years can bring about both wonder- your 30’s are busy. You have a ca- rounded by incredible women who
ful and difficult experiences. Reck- reer, a full social life, hobbies, travel, are smart, kind, funny, cultured and
less abandon shifts to cautious opti- maybe even a marriage and/or kids. driven, and who rarely get splashed
mism, peppered with skepticism. As You may find yourself in a position across the covers of magazines.
young women, we are busy proving at work or at home, wondering how With so much to discuss, I gathered

I recently overheard a woman


complain about turning thirty; she
bemoaned getting older, having re-
sponsibilities and less fun. “Oh sis-
to the world we can take care of our-
selves, all the while test driving our
you got there. The new adjectives
that reflect your own “maturity” and
these women together for a round-
table discussion and asked these
ter, if only you knew!”, I thought. It emotions, test driving partners and include more concrete ideals such friends—from journalists to pro-
was difficult to restrain myself from defining ourselves. It’s a wild and as integrity, passion for living, princi- ducers, artists to financiers, single
telling her she had no idea just how wonderful ride, so take the time to ples, goal-oriented, considerate and ladies to mothers—to share their
much more powerful, confident and reflect on it and be excited for all the loving. Creating the life you want in (anonymous) thoughts on being 30-
sexy it is to be a woman in your possibilities. For most women, the your 30’s takes work, but it’s worth something. Here are the results:
thirties. You are a survivor of mis- person she is at 20 is drastically dif- it! You finally can make it on your
guided, youthful folly and jubilance, ferent than the woman she becomes own terms, and in collaboration with What do you like about being in
thankfully arriving at 30 infinitely by 30: the evolution is a messy but an equal partner. Your thirties (and your thirties?
more sure of yourself. Although the beautiful process. beyond) are a force with which to be
journey of self-discovery is life-long, C.S. Lewis said, “Thirty was reckoned in all the right ways. —I love my 30’s because it’s all
there is something to be said for tak- so strange for me. I’ve really had to Relationships change too, and about me as an independent woman
ing those many roads that lead to so come to terms with the fact that I am whether you are married, divorced and I can do whatever I want on my
many mistakes in your 20’s. You will now a walking and talking adult.” or dating, you suddenly find yourself own terms, living by my own rules
eventually be thankful for it all, hav- There may be some truth to that, asking questions about your future that come from my heart and my
ing lived and learned about yourself. but if you think you are suddenly go- that had just seemed so far away. brain! In my 20’s I was consumed
You’ll be proud to celebrate your ing to wake up one day “an adult,” My friends and I jokingly refer to our by the little things in life, like what
passage by hoisting your flag atop think again. No matter your age, you lives as “tales from the dangerously to wear, who to date and what hot
the mini mountain that is 30! It’s continue to straddle the divide be- self-sufficient” that include as we spot I planned on hitting. In my 30’s
an accomplishment. Your 30’s are tween adolescence and responsibil- are building our careers, buying our I am thinking of my path to financial
not what you imagined during your ity of adulthood. Embrace it. I don’t homes, taking ourselves out to din- freedom, the countries I want to vis-
teenage years. I look back and laugh think it serves one well to solely fall ner, and managing our own invest- it, my home, my family, my friends,
Age only matters when one is ag- when I recall what I imagined. What onto one side of that equation or the ments. The majority of women in
ing. Now that I have arrived at a will you say to yourself looking back other. For God’s sake, have some my life live in major cities from New
great age, I might just as well be from 50? 60? 30 is young—enough fun while you’re doing it all; laugh York to Vancouver, and Los Angeles
twenty…Youth has no age. —Pablo with lamenting over birthdays! As is and be open with your friends; they to London. There’s an abundance
the case for all the decades to come: need it too. I think there is an hon- of incredible, single women in each
age is entirely an attitude, and if you esty that comes with age, letting city and happily so. For every wom-

p24 sloane / spring 2010 p25 sloane / spring 2010


looking at myself with an objective —Oh God, I love my thirties. There experience and it is amazing to see. can never be captured in the later —Move past the relationship fairy
eye, evolving as a woman. In my is such a profound relief in it. Not —Successful women in business years is the sparkle in your skin and tale. Embrace a real partnership,
20’s I was always confident without that it is easier, just richer and more like Producer Christine Vachon. stupidity. I don’t understand the ob- because it is infinitely more reward-
reason but in my 30’s I am confident productive. I was reminded on my session with youth in media. I per- ing. Don’t give up on romance, it
and have an understanding of it. birthday this year of a great Oscar —Any woman with a command of sonally find a woman that has lived is very important, but learn to love
Wilde quote: “Thirty-five is a very her brilliance and fierce with a vital out her youth more attractive. She the qualities of another, do the fairy
—I feel so loving and happy in my attractive age. London society is full capacity to love. Women that tran- has more substance and character. tale the right way. Connection is ev-
30’s. My 20’s were a mess for me! of women of the very highest birth scend time… —I hardly even notice it anymore. erything, because at the end of the
Everything fell into place and made who have, of their own free choice, Good for them…it is only a one-di- day you really have to like some-
sense in my 30’s. I know what I am remained thirty-five for years.” —I admire Angelina Jolie...she’s mensional perspective, so as long one, not just love, so that you still
doing here now when in my 20’s I successful, married Brad f**king as I keep that in mind, it doesn’t stay engaged and interested in their
wasn’t sure if I was coming or going, What did you think you would be Pitt, adopted half a litter, had a lit- bother me. own journey as an individual, while
and I hear the 40’s are even better, doing now? What are you doing ter of her own and doesn’t give a incorporating it in to your own and
if you can imagine, and 50’s, then now and is it better? s**t what anyone thinks! Also, my —I think the youth of today get it. constantly loving forward together.
Frivolity, gaiety, freedom to satisfy And at this stage of the game, if you
pleasures and whims is underrated are out there dating, if a connection
-- it’s about a youthful state of mind. doesn’t fit, then move on…
They’re doing all these things;
they’re smart, savvy, spearhead- —Life takes you down unexpected
ing the 21st century in a lot of ways paths without warning. If you have
(direct and indirect), and achieving good people around, you will al-
what someone in their 30’s, 40’s and ways make it through stronger. Take
up can without context... time to hear someone’s story, you
may be surprised at what you learn.
60’s and so on. I feel able to take —I thought I would have a job where dearest friend for never judging me, Any lessons you would like to Follow your heart even if it leads
on whatever I need, whether from a I am hugely successful… I am work- always supporting my decisions, share? Advice? toward a difficult road. Love deep
business or personal standpoint. ing on doing that now, in an industry never telling me what to do but and without reserve. Cherish your
I love; however I never accounted guiding me with my best interest in —Appreciate yourself as a woman. friends and family neither can be re-
—Motherhood. The clarity of action/ for my taste getting so much more mind, being a great listener, a truth- Give love and honest friendship. Ac- placed. Regret is the worst thing to
purpose. The multi-faceted beauty specific and lifestyle becoming such ful woman, giving me unconditional cept wrong decisions and take ap- live with, so take a risk and be okay
of womanhood amplified is happen- a big factor. love and being a great friend. propriate actions so not to live with with whatever the outcome. Have
ing right now for me in my 30’s with the mistake. faith and appreciate what you have
a growing awareness of what that —I thought I would be married with What questions would you ask of today. S
means in human terms. 6 kids. But I am working at work, at your peers? —Be conscious of your own day-to-
home and on myself, and actually day reality, there’s art in that! And
—A few things come to mind… I’ve this is much better! I hope for a good —Are we really grown ups? make it a personal achievement to For more on Carrie Mitchell, visit
always been a people pleaser and man but if he doesn’t show up I can live each decade better than the one www.StyleGroove.com
I’ve learned that sometimes you live out my dreams on my own! —My concerns are that I might not before but never compare them.
have to put your own feelings and carry a child of my own at this point.
happiness ahead of trying to please —I am continuing building my career I would ask my peers if they have —Don’t be lazy and bank on things
everyone else...as I get older this is experience as a writer, starting my the same concerns and how they like, “ it’s likely”
becoming clearer to me. I’ve also own company, being a full-time mom, feel about the possibility of never
noticed that my relationship with my writing my thesis, and gearing up to conceiving a child.
parents has started to develop into be officially back to work: generally
more of a friendship than a parent/ expanding my outlook. Building my —I generally ask spontaneous ques-
child relationship in the past couple own business is immensely reward- tions when together with other
years. And I still have as much fun as ing, humbling, challenging and worth girlfriends-- I like the ones that are
I did in my 20s but I now have more it. I’ve literally felt myself grow expo- based on day-to-day life experienc-
of my own money to do it with! nentially as a human being. es, of the now.

—As someone who is very focused What women do you admire? Thoughts on the youth obsessed
on career at the moment, I love that media?
in your thirties people take you seri- —I look at my mother and see how
ously in business. Finally! solid she is. That can only come with —The one thing about youth that

p26 sloane / spring 2010 p27 sloane / spring 2010


Who’s That Girl?
needs of this demographic, which
spans many life stages (including
singles, marrieds, moms, stay-at-
homes and career women). Some
have taken the Urban Outfitters ap-
proach to appealing to shoppers
Retailers rejigger selections and concepts to capture the 30-something shopper. who’ve graduated from their initial
store concepts. Like Urban, which
By Caletha Crawford begot Anthropologie—an outlet that
draws a wide range of ages with it’s
trendy but accessable product and
cozy store format—American Eagle
Outfitters launched Martin + Osa in
2006. Unlike American Eagle shop-
pers who typically measure time in
semesters, the new 28-location chain
seeks to lure 25-to-40-year-olds with
more sophisticated denim-focused
merchandise. Currently the store is
time span—so they have the same line magazine, demands more from chockablock with the season’s sa-
history defined by coming out of each purchase than she did in the fari-inspired trends, including utility
World War II. Younger demograph- past. “Ten years ago, I was buying pants and tees emblazoned with an-
ics like Gen X and Y don’t have as trendier items, but now the longev- imal illustrations that coincidentally
consistent a background.” ity of the item is more important to recall the outback aesthetic compet-
Without this shared experi- me,” she said. “You realize you have itor Banana Republic launched with
ence, it’s challenging to identify the a closet full of things that are very decades ago. Though the sales help
desires of a whole generation, but one season, and you don’t want that is friendly and the layout inviting,
a few generalizations may be safe: anymore.” M+O has left some shoppers cold.
we’re past the slouchy logo sweats
and Uggs phase although we are
not ready to morph into our moth-
ers quite yet. Combine that with the
new pragmatism everyone’s ad-
opted (thanks to the recession) and

A
today’s 30-year-old consumers are
could blame her? The brand had ally calling out: ‘If you’re 30, come shopping a lot differently then we
grayed to the point of a punch line, here.’ They’re addressing a fashion did a decade ago.
earning a notorious place on Broad- sensibility, a wearability and a value “In my 20’s, I was very trendy
way in Nora Ephron’s play “Love, proposition that communicates to and now I have more of a classic
Loss and What I Wore” with the that life stage ‘We understand what look,” explained Carla Stocker, a
ge—like size—is a line: “When you start wearing Ei- you need and we’re delivering it.’” single 40-year-old Wells Fargo bank-
very touchy subject in fashion. Just leen Fisher, you might as well say Pinpointing the needs of cus- er from the Atlanta area, adding
look at the deep sartorial waters ‘I give up.’” OUCH! tomers is a safer option than brack- that she turns to funky accessories
Eileen Fisher found herself in last With this cautionary tale in mind, eting them by age; no group is to punch up her look. “In my 20’s,
Fall after attempting to ditch her it’s no wonder that fashion types are homogeneous, especially today. if I saw it and wanted it, I bought
eponymous brand’s image as your skittish about discussing age. “Peo- “We’re seeing more fragmenting in it. There wasn’t a thought process.
mother’s clothing label. Beyond the ple tend not to want to say they’re age groups than there used to be. Now, I think about if I need it or have
sleeker, more hip fits of the clothes, targeting people in their 30s just like They’re breaking up and becoming it in my closet already.”
she created a splash by jettisoning they didn’t want to say they’re tar- submarket groups,” explains Dudley This idea of stopping to con- Thirty-eight year old Jennifer
the usual silver-haired Boomers in geting 40-somethings or 50-some- Blossom, Ph. D and associate pro- sider a purchase—based on quality, Introducing The New Kids Vallez of Connecticut describes her-
the company’s ad campaigns, literal- things,” observed Wendy Liebmann, fessor at LIM College, which focuses aesthetics or need—is a hallmark of On the Block self as an impulsive shopper who
ly trading them in for younger mod- CEO of marketing consultancy WSL on the business of fashion. “The 30-plus shopping. Meredith Levy, Retailers are responding to these prefers to fill her closet via the In-
els. Devotees like Rosie O’Donnell Strategic Retail. “There are compa- Baby Boomer generation was born a 35-year-old New York mom and shifting demands, aiming stores ternet thanks to her time-strapped
were not amused. But really who nies that are doing it but not liter- in a narrow range—about a five year founder of the Pint Size Social on- and collections towards the various schedule as a mother of two young

p28 sloane / spring 2010 p29 sloane / spring 2010


stodgy, if not younger image. Last and everything would be curated for There’s a lot of energy in the Cusp self,” she explained, adding that the
fall, the store blanketed women’s her and appropriate for that.” store, and we pay a lot of attention tone and merchandising have to
magazines with ads touting “The The Cusp team shops hundreds to music,” he said. The challenge for work. “Things like the noise level,
New Ann.” Turns out, this meant of lines, cherry picking the pieces Cusp, which operates six standalone type of music and the experience
more trend-right pieces that ex- that are best for their customer. Ac- locations, will be to bring that ex- level of the staff are all really impor-
tended beyond the store’s for- cording to Vallez, the tactic works. “I perience into it’s newly announced tant in determining if a store is for
mer business-attire niche. For think Cusp is more my style. I grew shop-in-shops within select Neiman you or your younger sister.” s
instance, this spring bright cor- up in New York, and Cusp is more Marcus stores.
als and yellows beam from racks like a boutique,” she said. “Every- Blossom points to places like
while simple sheaths and ruff led thing feels really well edited. There’s Apple stores and Barney’s as lead- For more on Caletha Crawford visit
tops beckon. And whether it was a lot of thought going into J. Crew or ers in creating environments suited blamethedvr.wordpress.com. She also
the marketing or merchandising, Madewell product, but [unlike Cusp] to their target customers. “Barney’s writes for AskMichaelCohen.com and
consumers seem to be taking you feel like it’s all mass produced.” creates a luxurious experience. Ap- the forthcoming TheAtlantaPost.com.
note. Vallez, who lists Anthropolo- Cusp’s goal of outfitting shop- ple creates an Adventureland for
gie as one of her favorite stores, pers from weekend casual to a night shoppers wheth-
stated a renewed interest. “I’ve out on the town is also a strength of er they’re buying
been shopping more at Ann Tay- J. Crew, which shoppers and indus- or not,” he said.
lor lately. I think they have a new try insiders alike credit for its stay- “Stores are realiz-
designer; things seem more mod- ing power and cross-generational ing that one of the
ern and more of my style.” appeal. “J. Crew seems to have a only ways they
At Ann Taylor, the company says very broad audience because of the have left to re-
that it’s seeking to woo “modern mix of styling from good-looking ev- main competitive
women” though it doesn’t pinpoint eryday wear going up to the classic is to create a cus-
an age. Similarly, Neiman Marcus’ pieces for more special occasions,” tomer experience
Cusp concept acknowledges that noted Liebmann, adding the range that the shoppers
its core customer is probably in of price points means there’s some- wants to be a part
her 30s but the aim is for multi- thing for everyone. “Martin + Osa of.”
generational appeal. “We don’t talk struggles with that. When you see Levy, for one,
girls and owner of the Sophie & Lili the location in the Mall of America about age because we believe that the quality and presentation, it is a can list the charac-
children’s clothing and accessory in Minneapolis,” she said, “and I did in contemporary [fashion] we know really pleasant place to shop. But is teristics that make
company. Though she says Ameri- see nice things that I would buy but we can dress a wide range of ages,” it worth the price or too high priced? for a pleasant shop-
can Eagle is way too young for her I thought the stuff was overpriced.” said Russ Patrick, managing director J. Crew has different price and qual- ping experience. “I
now, she thinks Martin + Osa might Monogram, Banana Republic’s of Cusp. “It’s about her lifestyle and ity points in one store.” don’t like music that
have skewed too far in the other more tailored (read: mature) collec- how she perceives herself.” J. Crew is also praised thanks is too loud and light-
to its push into new markets like kids ing is key. I enjoy re-

“This idea of stopping to consider a purchase—


and weddings. “J. Crew looks much ally good dressing
better and the quality is better,” Levy rooms and skinny

based on quality, aesthetics or need—is a hall-


confirmed. “I love shopping the lo- mirrors,” she said,
cations with Crewcuts. It’s one-stop adding Lululemon

mark of 30-plus shopping.”


shopping.” offers one of the
best shopping ex-
Setting the Tone periences. “I was
direction. “Martin + Osa is really tion, has received a similar reaction Patrick said the Cusp model, Convenience is key when catering blown away by the
boring. It’s too safe, and I’m not a among shoppers who question the which launched in 2006, offers a to the demands—work, children and staff and the clothes. Shopping for
crazy dresser,” she said. “No one value. Vallez, who used to shop at carefully edited selection of contem- social—that pull 30-somethings in workout clothes is like shopping
piece stands out to me at all.” Vallez Banana Republic before it became porary fashion for active women. different directions, but it’s only part for bathing suits. You need a help-
does credit the chain with having “boring”, said Monogram is also un- “She is extremely busy with such a of the puzzle. Increasingly retailers ful staff. Other stores should model
covetable accessories, which are derwhelming. “I’ve looked at the col- busy calendar she’s constantly look- are focusing on consumer experi- around them.”
often branded goods like Ray-Ban, lection online, and I think Monogram ing for things to updated her ward- ence. Patrick said the differences Liebmann said it’s important
Havaianas and Dolce Vita. is too pricey for what it is.” robe,” he stated, explaining that the between the Neiman Marcus stores for retailers to remember that wom-
Though based on the selec- stores are laid out for expedience. and Cusp locations are designed en shop for a variety of different
tion, she could see herself shopping Taking A Refresher Course “If she’s shopping for something to around the type of shopper each reasons. “Sometimes shopping is
there, Stocker was ultimately turned Ann Taylor is among the established go out in that night, we could take is trying to lure. “The physical plan about necessity and sometimes it’s
off by the M+O’s prices. “I shopped retail names looking to project a less her to a specific room in the store, is different from Neiman Marcus. about needing a moment to your-

p30 sloane / spring 2010 p31 sloane / spring 2010


by Amber Hurwitz

I
room of the Twilight
Zone, the main char-
acter awaits the re-
sults of her ninth pro-
cedure that attempts
mages of feminine beauty are to make her look “nor-
everywhere. History, culture, me- mal.” In the fictional
dia, industry developments—whether society of the Twilight
a woman chooses to or not, she is Zone, she will be sent
presented with overwhelming im- away from society to
ages of beauty in her society. The live with others who
dream of ideal beauty is chased and are deformed if her fi-
regarded as a standard by which nal treatment has not
women are so often measured. Nar- achieved the desired
row definitions of beauty make it dif- result. To her despair
ficult to imagine alternatives. Yet a and horror, the last
spectrum of idealized beauty exists attempt at fixing her
throughout history and the world, face fails. A stunningly
defined by different characteristics beautiful woman ap-
both praised and definitive. pears as the bandag-
Physical characteristics con- es are removed. The
sidered alluring in one milieu might doctors and nurses
be seen as undesirable in others. A are repulsed by her
glance into the mainstream percep- appearance, and their
tions of the beauty ideal in different faces are revealed to
societies unveils an incredible clash be monstrous look-
of tastes, and diversity of appeal. ing. The woman faces
Dita Von Tesse (Image: Limité)
Outside of any predominantly ac- a life of banishment
cepted vision of beauty there lie oth- from society, and she is greeted by Of course, perception of beau-
er cults of beauty worship, despite another victim of “disfigurement” (in ty is subjective and largely a part of
the seemingly singular onslaught of Twilight terms), who is, of course, a personal taste. However, conformity
imagery in a given culture. A study very handsome man. He tells her to what is considered ideal physical
of differing perceptions of beauty that he will take her away to live with beauty is pursued to a rigorous and
cleans the slate in the eye of the be- others of “their kind,” where she will overwhelming extent. A uniform,
holder, and opens a grand array of feel a great sense of belonging and uncompromising view of beauty is
what are considered to be coveted being loved. He says to her, “there’s often pursued to the extent of health
characteristics of beauty. an old saying. A very, very old say- risks, surgeries, time—consum-
There is a famous episode of ing… beauty is in the eye of the be- ing and expensive beauty rituals,
the Twilight Zone called “Eye of the holder.” Though it’s obviously an mutilation, self-destruction, eating
Beholder” which illustrates a soci- extreme and bizarre mind trick, the disorders and even death. Women
ety with clear-cut values regarding episode contemplates themes of have long suffered in attempting
appearances. In the surreal hospital conformity to cultural norms. to embody impossible standards.

p33 sloane / spring 2010


single picture that sparked an enor-
mous response from readers all over
the world. “The Lizzi Miller Phenom-
enon” resulted in hundreds of read-
ers flooding the magazine’s website
the moment after the image first ap-
peared, lauding their approval and
The ugly side of beauty—where admiration and desire. Viewing the of white skin as the standard and appreciation with comments like, “I
women who are literally dying for idealized beauty through a number ideal relegates non-white beauty to love this picture. I was starting to de-
approval, is something most women of lenses reveals an ever-changing, be considered “exotic.” White West- spair of ever seeing real women in
have felt to some degree in many highly subjective, and far from the ern beauty standards certainly affect magazines and it made me reassess
cultures. Unfortunately, a major- singular image emblazoned in main- other ethnicities ideals significantly, how I look at myself. I have a simi-
ity of women today report having stream media. Considering the vast so not only are beauty standards nar- lar tummy which I hate—but look
poor body-image and many under- spectrum of worshipped ideal beau- rowly defined but widely portrayed at her, she’s beautiful.”4 The model
ty, it is like compar- as the norm. American beauty stan- was pictured smiling to her naked
ing the Lily to the dards are hugely influential around self, looking comfortable and care-
Rose. the globe. Lack of diversity in the free in a 3x3 photograph on page
What is beauty? idealized standard is significant. Un- 94. The featured model, 20-year-old
According to Web- der-representation of black women Lizzi Miller, was a size 12-14, coinci-
ster’s Dictionary, (not to mention other minorities) in dentally about the same size as the
the word beauty Western fashion and beauty indus- average American woman. The re-
is derived from tries continues in America—despite sponse to Lizzi’s picture was so in-
the latin “bellitas,” the fact that, according to estimates tense and widespread that Glamour Artist Kelis has been admired for wearing her hair au natural (Image: Curlista)
which comes from from 2007, black women alone referenced it as sparking their “Body profile of the flapper. The flat boy- A small bust, however, was
the word “bellus,” spend over $20 billion on apparel Image Revolution.” It wasn’t just fe- ish figure exemplified by the flapper ideal during the Middle Ages, when
meaning “fair, pret- annually.3 male readers who were raving about style inspired women to bind their the coveted size was compared to
ty.” Beauty is said Indeed, body size and shape is the picture, but men writing in to re- breasts, slim down (diet) to get rid apples. Previous centuries showed
to inspire feelings paramount in the ubiquitous images quest “more like her!”5 Even more of their curves and undergo breast beautiful women as having minimal
of mental well-be- of what makes a woman desirable. glowing reactions appeared in over reduction surgery. By the 1930’s, chest development combined with a
ing and harmony. It The portrayal of a single body type 1,000 postings on Glamour.com all however, a full bust was back in bottom and upper thighs that were
is used to describe as the norm and standard also has joyously praising the picture.6 style. In fact, the bigger the better. rich in fat.11 In recent times this ide-
good looks, any a powerful impact on women of all Women have always been un- Some actresses acquired expen- al has been reversed, pairing a big
attractive feature; backgrounds. Throughout history, der pressure to attain their society’s sive breast implants, but they were bust with a narrow, androgynously
the quality which what is considered not only attrac- ideal of feminine beauty. The his- not discussed. By the 1950’s, a thin thin torso and hips. Both beauty ide-
makes an object tive, but, acceptable or tolerable, tory of beauty and examinations of woman with a large bust line was als, ironically, are not realistically
seem pleasing or has changed immensely. The shift in cross-cultural values show the ex- considered most attractive.7 8 Ideal attainable, because body fat is not
satisfying in a cer- perception during the past century treme measures taken by women American beauty in the 1950’s was naturally relegated to one half of a
tain way.” Beauty is towards desirable body shape has to live up to what, from an objective exemplified by full, pointed breasts, person’s body! In Brazil, women
also said to invoke been drastic. Marilyn Monroe ex- perspective, can sometimes seem and long legs, usually clad in high were traditionally expected to have
feelings of love and emplified the epitome of femininity capricious and inane ideas of attrac- heels. Breasts, not weight, were a fuller bottom and a smaller bust.
desire. It can also as shapely and busty in the 1950’s. tiveness. Defined in a given society the main point of concern to young For Brazilians, large breasts were re-
describe a particu- Being underweight, for the first time by an array of social, traditional and women.9 garded as vulgar in the past. Howev-
Lizzi Miller’s “body-image-revolution” (Image: Glamour)
lar graceful quality.2 in history, became the ideal in the historical elements, there is a sheer Modern actress Kiera Knight- er, in the last several years the Brazil-
estimate their attractiveness. Some It’s interesting to note that the Web- 1960’s, giving way to “heroin chic” trendiness associated with any ley, largely regarded as beautiful, ian beauty ideal has been influenced
studies have estimated that up to ster definition of beauty repeats the waif-like models such as Kate Moss mainstream image of beauty. has said she is very jealous of wom- by the American ideal, and breast
80% of adult women believe they word “fairness” and serves as part of a few decades later. The last half of For example, certain bust siz- en with long legs. “I hate my body. implants in Brazil have become larg-
are overweight and aim to achieve a the word’s origin, whereas today’s the 20th century found thinner and es have gone in and out of fashion I like so many other people’s bod- er and more popular.12
figure that is approximately two sizes Western culture idolizes tan skin. thinner figures in the spotlight— throughout American history. As the ies. I like legs—a good pair of legs During the Victorian era, the
smaller than the body size most men Though tans are portrayed as quite a contrast from the times when fashion, politics, industry and social on someone else always makes me ideal woman was soft and full—fig-
actually find desirable. The odds are desirable, it’s usually tan Caucasian softer, more curvaceous, voluptuous climate have changed (among other jealous!”10 Interestingly, with a flat ured. Corsets were used to minimize
that you are more attractive than you skin, which is shown in mainstream bodies were deemed the epitome of things), so has the desirable wom- chest and short legs, Kiera Knight- waists while simultaneously accentu-
think!1 Western culture—sometimes ex- femininity and sensuality. an’s body. By the 1920’s, the ideal ley’s features would be significantly ating the hips and buttocks. Corsets
Exploring different standards of tremely light complexioned minori- The September issue of last of a Victorian hourglass figure was undesirable by the beauty standards caused a variety of health problems
beauty presents a reality of diverse ties. The overwhelming portrayal year’s Glamour Magazine featured a replaced with the flat washboard of America in the 1950’s. related to breathing and digestion.

p34 sloane / spring 2010 p35 sloane / spring 2010


Wearing a corset constantly gradual- high contrast, with bright red cheeks surgery, sometimes even referred to been quoted as saying, “There are face of fashion. Her
ly altered the structure of a woman’s “like the color of poppies,” white as “plastic surgery addiction”, which beautiful women, and then there’s tall, boyish figure,
body to fit the hourglass ideal, con- skin “like white snow,” clear, lus- demonstrates habitually seeking me. I’ve seen this face in every mall with no breasts and
torting a woman’s waist to the size trous eyes “like a falcon,” and black cosmetic surgery. I’ve ever been in. I’m not that spe- no hips, was not
of a hand span after several years of eyebrows “like a sable’s tail.” (Push- Artists and architects of the Re- cial.”22 Some modeling agencies at all the Victorian
“tightlacing” and “corset training.” 13 kareva97) and (Kireyeva). naissance used an equation known will not hire women who have had standard of beauty,”
In the Renaissance era (1400’s— Modern Japanese women be- as the “golden ratio,” a mathemati- nose jobs, and furthermore look for writes one of her
1600s), it was considered a sign of in- lieve their skin is the key to true cal finding that goes back to ancient beauties with quirky and uniquely biographers.27 Dur-
telligence and beauty to have a high beauty. Miki Okae, one of Japan’s times, to design many works of art. admirable features. “A face that [is] ing a time when red
forehead, which led women to pluck most famous beauty experts, says Modern scientists have adopted this so beautiful, but not beautiful in a hair was often seen
their hairlines often halfway up the the ideal is fair, smooth skin. “Ev- mathematical formula to explain why sense that all America thinks it’s as a stigma associ-
scalp.14 This is exhibited in portraits eryone demands that,” she says.17 some faces are considered beautiful. beautiful…it’s the type of beautiful ated with the devil
of Queen Elizabeth the 1st and in Da Creams claiming to lighten a per- Some researchers have determined that the fashion industry appreci- and witch-craft, her
Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Sometimes, the son’s complexion are very popular that we identify human facial beauty ates and loves,” noted Tyra Banks, “coppery golden”
plucking didn’t stop at the hairline in Japan. “You see a lot of products using a very specific ratio called the in discussing a contestant chosen hair was very influ-
either—eyebrows were often com- that advertise whitening because phi ratio or the “Golden Ratio.” We for her show, America’s Top Model ential.28 Siddal be-
pletely eliminated. Other characteris- [Japanese women] want that porce- look for a specific mathematical ra- in 2005.23 came a trendsetter
tics of beauty in renaissance Europe lain, that very, very fair, light skin,” tio between the eyes, mouth, nose, One effect of a ubiquitous im- of the “aesthetic”
entailed a full figure with an ample says another expert.18 jaw, forehead, etc., and this ratio is age of a white beauty ideal is the movement, and the
prominent practice of relaxing and typical fashionable
straightening naturally textured hair. aesthetic lady had
Additionally, in Japan, straight hair red hair (often en-
is considered “the norm,” and thus, hanced by henna), a
more attractive—so great lengths pale face, green eyes
are gone to in order to make hair and wore heelless
straight if it isn’t already.24 Histori- shoes. The idea of
cally, in West African culture, afros red hair was thought
bosom, rounded abdomen, and wide In contrast, half way around the phi, or 1.618033… The symmetry were considered a distinctly femi- of as social suicide Suicide Girls fill the “alterna-girl” void online (Image: suicidegirls.com)
hips.15 The upper echelon of society world, American women have been and the ratio of the proportion are nine trait and black hair was very and her appearance
pursued porcelain skin, which was sunbathing and going to tanning considered innately aesthetically culturally important. Some African was both mimicked by trend fol- naissance with a series of tortured
viewed as a mark of modesty and beds fully aware of the likelihood of pleasing.21 Many studies claim the nations viewed a woman’s afro as lowers and mocked in cartoons.29 love poems addressed to a mysteri-
virtue. The ideal beauty combina- skin cancer as a result. Fake-tanning golden ratio relates to an instinctual being similar to the thickness of the In fact, while red hair has been per- ous “Dark Lady” whose true identity
tion was a white face with red lips creams, tanning lotions and oils are attraction based on recognition of a forest, reflecting the identification of ceived as a mark of the devil and/or has never been revealed. Although
(symbolic of passion) and cheeks. highly popular where the Western face as both human and healthy on women with the Great Mother Earth a fiery temper in some cultures, hu- black hair is the most common
A pure white complexion, however, ideal of beauty is browned skin. Not a primal biological level. Yet other and female principle of God.25 mans have tried to redden their hair natural hair color, it is rarely found
is impossible for a healthy person only is tanning seen as fashionable, studies have proved that distinct fea- Various hair colors have been in other societies for thousands of in Westerners, which may have giv-
to attain naturally, so women used but it is also thought of for many as tures which vary from the average viewed as enchanting, or distinctly years. Ancient Egyptians and North en black hair an air of mystery and
various methods to whiten their skin, a way to relax. Last August the Inter- or most attractive, showing why ac- undesirable, in different times and Africans used henna, mineral com- glamour in modern western culture.
some of which were dangerous and national Agency for Research on Can- tresses like Derryl Hannah, Penelope places. Ancient Egyptians dyed pounds, and other natural materials Those with very dark hair, natural or
even deadly. One popular technique cer moved tanning beds to its highest Cruz, Sophia Loren, Meryl Streep, their hair and wigs a variety of col- to go red.30 dyed, are often regarded as having a
was the use of white lead powder, cancer risk category, calling them “car- Cate Blanchett, Uma Thurman and ors, with blues, greens, blondes and Dark haired women have long uniquely exotic beauty.32
(also used by the Ancient Roman’s cinogenic to humans.”19 The desire Drew Barrymore are widely consid- golds being their favored choices. In been perceived as possessing an un- Consider the use of man-made
despite knowing it was potentially for tanned skin and the use of tanning ered to be very beautiful women. ancient Greece many dyed their hair paralleled degree of sophistication, beauty enhancements to achieve
lethal). Women all over Europe cov- beds has led some to a habit which is Appearances deviating from red with henna and sprinkled it with poise and intelligence. For decades, the appearance of a dream woman,
ered their faces, necks and chests difficult to break because the UV rays the ideal or average are often seen gold powder, often adorning it with women striving for respect and such as false eyelashes, fake nails,
with lead powder.16 cause endorphins to be released from as highly alluring, and exotic inspira- fresh flowers.26 achievement have darkened their hair extensions, padded bras and,
Thinness and pallor were signs the brain; some people also experi- tions of intrigue. General character- Lizzie Siddal, was the model for hair because of these perceptions.31 of course, implants and plastic sur-
of illness in Russia, and were also ence not being able to tell when they istics of attractiveness like lustrous John Everett Millais famous paint- The romantic connotations of black gery and fake tans. Comparably, in
associated in Russian culture with are “tan enough” leading to a spiraling hair and smooth skin are also sym- ing “Ophelia.” (1852). The red haired hair begin with the ancient Egyptian the country of Georgia during the
mean behavior, bad habits or de- fixation.20 bolic of health and seem to serve beauty was a muse to many artists ruler Cleopatra, who is believed to 17th century, high society women
pravity. The similarity between bled- Similar to the “tanorexia” fixa- as qualities of attractiveness across and in her rejection of oppressive have enhanced the starkly black tint often donned false teeth, false hair,
nost (pallor) and bliadstvo (harlotry) tion, the modern Western ideal of the board. Heather Locklear, re- Victorian standards of beauty she of her hair with henna and indigo. false bosoms and false calves. It was
was noted in ecclesiastical texts. beauty has also been associated garded as an exceptionally beautiful set, rather than followed, a new Shakespeare immortalized the black thought beautiful to induce large
Russian women aspired to a look of with a preoccupation with cosmetic woman by modern standards, has ideal of beauty. “She changed the haired beauty ideal during the Re- eyes, which they dilated by using

p36 sloane / spring 2010 p37 sloane / spring 2010


terestingly, too, are counterculture
beauty queens like burlesque star
Dita Von Teese, who ignites beauty
ideals from the past, such as the
popularity of corsetry and other vin-
tage images. Images of the epitome
of feminine beauty are everywhere,
and they make for some of the most
prevalent symbols in our society. It
is nearly impossible to escape from
the idealized version of what a wom-
an is supposed to look like, what is
considered to be the norm, and what
is decidedly sexy. A glance into the
past and other cultures reveals how
subjective and changeable these
seemingly infallible visions of beau-
ty actually are. S

­—Amber Marie Hurwitz attended


American University’s School of
Public Affairs in Washington DC,
where she earned a bachelors de-
gree in Political Science. Amber got
her start as a professional writer
working as Associate Editor for Com-
munity Development Publications in
Silver Spring, MD. She covered leg-
islative updates on Capitol Hill and at
the National Press Club. Amber has
also written articles for female audi-
ences in numerous publications and
currently lives in Ithaca, NY where
she works as a freelance writer.

1940’s sex symbol and Hollywood starlet, Rita Hayworth (Image: Suspensemovies.com)

belladonna extracted from the dead- Modern beauty marks and


ly nightshade plant.33 Another pop- beauty art which does not conform
ular beauty mark of the 1600’s was to a standard “ideal” can be seen to
the use of patches to cover small- take on their own terms of confor-
pox scars. Small dots of black taffeta mity and beauty worship. Piercings
or velvet were shaped into symbols and tattoos, which could be consid-
such as stars and moons. This fash- ered marks of rebellion against ex-
ion which began as a way to cover pectations of female beauty, have
up smallpox blemishes lasted well taken on their own cult of beauty
into the 18th century and turned into worship (for example the popular-
a mark of beauty and decoration.34 ity of the Suicide Girls models). In-

p38 sloane / spring 2010


Photographs by Felicity Byrne, Styling by Ashley Glorioso

S tep out of your


winter rut with beautiful layered
pieces that can easily be mixed
and matched to work for chilly
mornings, warmer afternoons
and nights on the town.
Kite and Butterfly jacket, Maggie
Ward tee, stylists own harness
and socks, Blue Life by Planet
Blue lace shorts, Deena and
Ozzy boots.
Literature Noir fringe Dress,
ReCollection black fringe Vest,
Cosabella Socks, Opening
Ceremony Boots, Elizabeth and
James (knife) necklace, others,
stylists own.
Society for Rational Dress cotton
and leather cardigan, Anne Valerie
Hash lace bustle, Louise Manna
body chain, Yfb slip, stylists own
socks, Opening Ceremony Boots,
Elizabeth & James cross ring, rose
gold rings Campise, other rings
stylists own.
Vintage bra, Myne skirt,
Bulgari gold ring, long silver
ring Soixante Neuf, cross ring
Elizabeth and James, rose gold
spike and diamond band both
Campise, necklaces stylists own.
Kite and Butterfly Jacket,
ReCollection silk top, Elizabeth
and James shorts, Jennifer Shon
body chain, Free People leather
gladiator sandals, ReCollection
cotton bra.
Kite and Butterfly top, Yfb slip,
Free People sandals, BB Brush
necklace, vintage hat from
Screaming Mimi’s NYC.
Elizabeth and James Blazer,
Fluxus T-shirt, Kettle Black
studded Bustier, Splendid Bike
Shorts, Deena and Ozzy Boots,
socks and necklaces and bracelet,
stylists own.
ReCollection flannel shirt, vintage
bra, Herve Leger skirt, Louise
Manna chain suspenders, Deena
and Ozzy boots
Photographys by Elkie Vanstiphout
Model’s own jacket,
Styling by Suzie Vanstiphout
New Look shoes.
T he land that bore us
Audrey Hepburn and Rene
Magritte has a new breed of
beauty to share. Take a tip from
the young women strutting the
streets of Brussells—mix and
match unique vintage finds with
affordable off the rack pieces for
a unique look you won’t see on
anyone else.

Zara jacket, American Apparel


dress, vintage belt.
Zara jacket, American Apparel
dress, vintage belt.
THIS PAGE: Model’s own jacket,
American Apparel jumpsuit,
New Look shoes.

LEFT: All pieces vintage.


Model’s own jacket, Urban
Outfitters bra, top and belt
vintage.
All pieces vintage.
THIS PAGE: All pieces vintage.

vintage shops in Brussels:


Episode, Rue de la Violette 28
Sussies, Rue Du Lombard 74
Foxhole Vintage, Rue des Riches-
Claires 4

Click for More vintage


shops in Brussels
Photographs by Chloe Aftel
Styling, Djuna Bel / Hair & Makeup, Megumi Wakabayashi

Ray Ban Sunglasses, Chloe Top.


N othing celebrates a
women’s form quite like beautiful
lingerie. These vintage inspired,
flirty pieces are sure to wake you
(and your mate) up to languish in
the change of season.

See by Chloe top, Maiden’s Belt


panties by Strumpet and Pink,
ROSEARK necklace (designer,
Diana Orr).
See by Chloe top, Maiden’s Belt
panties by Strumpet and Pink,
ROSEARK necklace (designer,
Diana Orr).
See by Chloe top, Maiden’s Belt
panties by Strumpet and Pink,
ROSEARK necklace (designer,
Diana Orr).
Garden of Delights panties
by Strumpet and Pink
BOTH PAGES: Rosy Posy
Posy Rosy panties by
Strumpet and Pink
Christian Dior vintage glasses,
Fox and Fawn vintage tulle
crinoline
Fox rhoncus
nec and Fawnvitae,
vintage
ultrices
tulle et
lacus. Maecenas ultrices velit sed
crinoline.
eros volutpat ac consectetur mi
elementum. Pellentesque urna
massa, tincidunt ut dictum quis,
tempor id dui. Nullam sodales,
arcu non pharetra luctus, dui velit
pharetra metus, nec imperdiet
est nisl suscipit nisl. Nulla ac
interdum eros. Vivamus id elit vel
tellus feugiat mollis. Donec sus-
cipit libero nec velit elementum
sodales. Vivamus vel neque quis
Often characterized as a chick-lit find Kristin’s words to be a soothing
writer, Anna McPartlin’s latest novel, antidote to their worries. This is a
Alexandra, Gone, offers much more woman who has been there, done
emotional depth than is often found that and written humorously and
between the candy-colored covers honestly about it along the way. (Just
of her contemporaries. McPartlin Let Me Lie Down: Necessary Terms
tackles regret, fear, loss and heart- for the Half-Insane Working Mom by
break in her very readable and cap- Kristin von Ogtrop, Little, Brown and
tivating novel. This story centers Company, April 1, 2010)
on the disappearance of Alexandra
Kavanaugh and the effect it has on
her family and friends. Four people
discover themselves while search-
The Lake Shore Limited, Sue Miller’s ing for a lost friend. (Alexandra,
first novel since her phenomenal Gone by Anna McPartlin, Downtown
bestseller The Senator’s Wife, is Press, April 13, 2010)
about how tragedy and fate affects
our lives individually. The catalyst
for this heart-wrenching novel is a
terrorist attack on a train, similar in
scope and reminiscent of the public
mourning of 9/11. Four unforgettably
authentic characters allow readers
into their imperfect lives and into the
deep emotional landscape of their Elizabeth Berg writes with such
hopes and fears. The lives of each fluid grace and honesty that when
character intersect at poignant mo- reading one of her novels you truly
ments captured with the grace and feel like you are listening to a close
simplicity of pitch-perfect prose that friend. Berg’s latest, The Last Time I
only Sue Miller is capable of creat- Saw You, is no different. This novel
ing. This novel is certain to strike an centers on a fortieth high school
emotional chord with readers every- Kristin von Ogtrop is the editor of reunion. The story is told from the
where. (The Lake Shore Limited by Real Simple and spends her life points of view of five classmates,
Sue Miller, Knopf, April 6, 2010) helping people simplify their lives. each with very different high school
What we discover in her debut experiences, each seeking answers
memoir/self-help dictionary, Just to very different questions. The
Let Me Lie Down: Necessary Terms characters in this heartfelt novel
for the Half-Insane Working Mom, is come to the reunion carrying their
that her life (and the lives of women burdens of regret, fear, loss and ulti-
everywhere) is anything but simple. mately hope and curiosity. As in life,
Kristin handles the obstacles and the answer’s each classmate seeks
pitfalls of mixing motherhood and will bring about a newfound joy and
career with humor, grace and last hope that only Berg can deliver with
but not least, simplicity. Any wom- exquisite detail and an incompa-
an who has ever found themselves rable attention to dialogue. The Last
tethered to their Blackberry, unable Time I Saw You will have you calling
to keep their life in order and always up old high school memories and
struggling to find the elusive “bal- reconnecting with long lost friends.
ance” they keep hearing about, will (The Last Time I Saw You by Eliza-

p88 sloane / spring 2010


Falling Off the Wagon
Another cold day in the office. Cold Here I sit, stomach feeling a little un-
enough to drive me to flee to Star- easy, reminding me why I stopped
bucks for a Venti Caramel Macchiato. drinking these things in the first
place. The Venti cup stands high,
Starbucks and I are in an abusive re- proud; he knows that he has won
lationship. today. I tell him that I don’t want
to see him ever again. He casts a
I haven’t been drinking coffee for smug glance in my direction, insu-
some time now. The caffeine was lating sleeve pulled high, because
disagreeing with my stomach, and he knows I won’t leave for long. The
my penchant for the polysyllabic weather will turn cold again, or an
drinks filled with sugar and dairy early morning will catch up with
definitely played a part in the 30+ me…And he will be waiting.
pound weight gain while in Seattle.
With whipped cream on top.
But this morning, I was too cold to
care about the ill effects I might have
to suffer. Hot frothy goodness was
calling to me. There was no fighting
its siren song; my strength had been
sapped from trying to stay warm for
the past several hours.
(Sidenote: Ladies, have you ever no-
ticed that when you are cold, it always
seems to be your hands and feet that
are the coldest? I know you are think-
ing, “Duh, those are like, almost the
only parts that aren’t covered.” You
are now also wondering why I made
you all sound like dumb valley girls.
The point is, scientists believe that
the female body is wired to send all
the heat available in the body to the
midsection, to protect the womb.
This is why when I stick my cold feet
on my husband’s side of the bed he
yells at my stomach, “There is no
baby!!” Also, he is crazy.)

Image: Jevett Photos

p90 sloane / spring 2010


“You have a handbag that you pick up every
day that can weigh around 25 pounds; your
Feature: body can handle more than a 3 pound weight
BODYPUMP at the gym...”
created by Les Mills
Power to Venus and Serena on the
courts, but while we want to be stron-
ger, we don’t necessarily want to be
bigger. Over time, these thoughts
have morphed into the gym phobia
that says by increasing the weight
we lift, we’ll increase the number
we see on the scale and the tag in
our jeans. All the while, our desire to
have toned Mrs. Obama arms con-
tinues to tempt us back to the weight
room.

“You have a handbag that you pick up


Image: munfitnessblog.com every day that can weigh around 25 Images: lesmills.com
pounds; your body can handle more
than a 3 pound weight at the gym,” Fournier has three suggestions: a most bang for your gym-time-buck. be the best marker of your progress,
says Lexi Fournier, personal trainer body fat test prior to beginning your “Group exercise is great because it and will fit so perfectly to your firm
and group exercise instructor, who is exercise regimen, working with a feels like an appointment. There’s a tush that you could bounce a quar-
certified by The American College of trainer or in group exercise classes, set time, you’re there to work, and ter off of them. s
Sports Medicine and has worked with and finally, the “Pants Don’t Lie” rule. if you don’t go, someone might no-
leading health clubs throughout Bos- Your local gym can give you a body tice,” says Fournier.
ton, Massachusetts, for over six years. fat test that will show your body’s When you’re in a group exercise
“The most prominent fear of women at lean and fat masses. This will serve class like BodyPUMP, picking your
the gym is bulking—this anxiety over as a benchmark for your progress. weights wisely is crucial. Fournier
getting big by lifting weights—and it’s Women ages 25-45, should be recommends testing out weights
simply a myth.” around 25-30% body fat. with the following criteria: if you can
do more than 12 repetitions easily,
The truth about lifting: when done Then comes the actual work. it’s too light; if you can’t do more
properly with weights that challenge than 8 repetitions, it’s too heavy.
your muscles (no more 3 pounders!), Enter, the world-renowned BodyPUMP.
it will burn fat by boosting metabo- BodyPUMP is a 60-minute, group fit- After six to eight weeks of your new
lism, building lean muscle, improving ness program that works the eight exercise regimen, you might be
balance and posture, and changing major muscle groups through the tempted to step back on a scale to
your entire body composition. More use of free weights, barbells, plates, see your progress. Instead, take an-
muscle means a faster metabolism, and aerobics. Upbeat (think Ameri- other body fat test. Or, just try your
which translates as more calories can Idol meets stadium sports meets jeans back on. Here’s why: Muscle
burnt (even when you’re sitting at 90s nightclub) music keeps the class weighs more than fat—it’s smaller
home indulging in Real Housewives moving at a uniform pace, so you’re and denser, and therefore confounds
Image: modestocourtroom.net of New York City on the couch). lifting correctly but also getting the the scales. Your jeans, however, will

p92 sloane / spring 2010 p93 sloane / spring 2010


by Jennifer Guinn

As the title implies, 2010, the 75th Murayari, this exhibition has been mark our world and be conscious
edition of the Whitney Biennial is labeled the “Women’s Biennial” with of the weight of heritage—what we
deliberately restrained, defined an unprecedented majority of the perpetuate and leave behind for the
overwhelmingly by its time, and represented artists women, as well generations to come. It is this reck-
an inverse of the institution’s prior as an unusually high inclusion of es- oning heralded by the Biennial and
bombastic, sprawling editions. As tablished artists and painters, creat- its espousal of traditionally feminine
Recycle - Reuse - Repurpose the mission statement declares, the
aim is to give a “cross section” rath-
ing a more intimate, physical and lay-
ered feel. Interestingly, it is the pared
themes which marks a significant
2.
er than an overview of the state of down approach that along with the
Unique Tote Bags & Pillows contemporary American art, and to strength of the artwork manifests the
“underscore the idea of time as an impact of the varied yet cohesive and
Handmade from Vintage Fabrics. element of the Biennial and to dem- interwoven dialogue.
onstrate the influence of the past”
within which the artists establish “di- Of the women’s contributions, some
Painted Cottage Furniture verse responses to the anxiety and of the strongest also best exem-
and Accessories for Your Home. optimism” of our era. Co-curated by plify the concept of time: legacy,
Francesco Bonami and Gary Carrion- ephemerality, identity, transition,
1. regeneration. Many of
the works give as much
weight to the tangential
theme of space, both pri-
vate and public, in order
to communicate ideas of
interiority, community,
vulnerability and dignity.
Walking among the gal-
leries, one is struck by
the highly personal and
specific nature of the shift within the contemporary mood
works, the overall ab- about gender associations, the col-
sence of irony and sexu- lective unconscious and hierarchy.
ality, the smallness in size
and simplicity of many Two of the few works included
of the selections. This which do explore sexuality to il-
subtlety is a bit of a trick, lustrate identity in very different
however, and along the ways are Aurel Schmidt’s Master
course of the exhibition of the Universe/FlexMaster 3000
an impressive discourse and Dawn Clements’, Mrs. Jessica
develops about who we Drummond’s (My Reputation,1945).
are in this day and age, Aurel Schmidt, with her humorous
our struggle to overcome and bizarre drawing of the trash-
our limits, to define and composed minotaur, has become
distinguish ourselves, to something of the Biennial’s it-girl.

1. Aurel Schmidt, Master of the Universe/FlexMaster 3000


www.calicocollections.com 2. Dawn Clements, Mrs. Jessica Drummond’s (My Reputation, 1945)

Wholesale - Retail
3. (continued) decay finds new life in the creature say about the state of American con- strain that runs through their works’ 6.
arrive in varying media: photogra- that semblance makes of it, a survi- temporary art, in particular, as well messages is about what it means to
phy, painting, and sculpture. In Tam vor’s character study. Aki Sasamo- as a larger possible paradigm shift be an American and an artist; female
Tran’s series, Raising Hell, her young, to’s Strange Attractors installation in our society? The female artists in- artists now have the advantage of
pajama-clad nephew fights off an uses science as a springboard (the cluded in the show are both Ameri- hard-won equality and get to move
imaginary foe armed with cape and Lorenz Attractor, a fractal structure in 5. beyond the gender
broomstick, the photographs alter- a dynamic system) upon which the narrative to represent
nately capturing the forceful warrior artist’s interactions with the artificial society and make per-
and the little boy with his outsized environment transcend the ordinary sonal messages that
weapons. Maureen Gallace’s small into something new: a performance are universal—what it
paintings of New England homes at art version of Pollock’s action paint- means to be human,
first glance seem dainty and pasto- ing, controlled but playful chaos. Pae not what it means to
ral but the lack of any facade detail- White’s exquisite tapestry creation be a woman.
ing on the homes gives them a sub- Still, Untitled, almost painful not to
versive undertone; they are missing touch, combines digital photography Our time is an era
their inhabitants and any means of with the loom to result in a lustrous, marked by stagnation
entry or view, merely semblances evocative large-scale textural work. as much as change,
of a home, insubstantial and ex- The ephemeral smoke wisps curl and floundering in war
clusionary, Norman Rockwell via dance along the surface in a cool, and recession, so-
the Twilight Zone. Jessica Jackson sensual depiction of fleeting meta- can born and immigrants, ages cially discontinuous, technologically silient, quietly willful vision, making
Hutchins’ sculptural work, Couch For morphosis, which the artist describes ranging from early twenties to mid dominated. While much of the art in the otherness into something beau-
The young artist’s tongue-in-cheek a Long Time, consists of 4. seventies, and of varying ethnicities this year’s Biennial is psychologically tiful and dignified. The Biennial feels
image of the man-beast, his body a sofa from her childhood and socioeconomic backgrounds. weighty, the pervasive mood is one of hopeful because it shows progress
constructed of refuse (including cig- living room which the art- strength: of rising to meet challeng- is being made despite our problems,
arettes, beer cans, condoms, vase- ist “reupholstered” with The most significant and evident es, the idiosyncrasies of personality, and while the naysayers love to ar-
line, and a Blackberry), straddles a newspaper articles about change in their artworks is that of making patterns out of the chaos, gue about the medium’s irrelevance
number of opposing ideas: mascu- Barack Obama occupied they aren’t hampered by or advo- moving away from passivity to resus- and politics, the curators found a way
linity and impotence, beauty and ug- by awkward ceramic ob- cating their femaleness or the gen- citate, to reconsider, 7.
liness, life and decay. Alternatively, jects positioned on the der war; the images of women by to bring life back to
Clements’ wry, intricate ink drawing cushions as stand-ins women where found here are fluid the realm of the es-
of a woman’s boudoir, replicated in for the family, the po- and what one encounters at 2010 is sential. The women
sections from the 1940s film about litical encroaching on the a focus on form, style and experi- artists in 2010 have
a “fallen woman” who has taken up importance of family or mentation with techniques. These moved beyond the
with a soldier following the death of home. Each demonstrates women stand comfortably on the gender war to fo-
her husband confronts the construct through distillations of shoulders of giants because of the cus on larger, uni-
of womanhood as a trap, a prison. American iconography— last seventy years’ toiling of other versal issues while
The panoramic view into her life and superheroes, regionalism, women who fought to have a voice still communicating
objects is both highly detailed yet in- family identity/childhood and place for themselves within the them in intimate,
complete: working from film stills, memories—the disparity institutions and markets of the mod- intuitive, sensitive
Clements reproduces images that between how things look ern to contemporary art world. The works; these con-
are side-by-side yet non-continuous, and how things are. curators were in a position to include tributions speak
taken from different angles, deliber- as the “fabric’s dream of becoming more work by women because more of people uncom-
ately fragmented. Both works dem- Finally, there are the (re-)construc- something else.” All three commu- women are able to work as artists fortable in, unsettled by their world, to redeem and make the show fresh
onstrate the limitations of gender tions: the reclaimed statue, the nicate our transience, the longing to now, they chose works based on their but determined to examine it, in on again by taking it back to the basics:
identity, the inherent contradictions found-art environment, the dream- be protean and timeless, our human strengths and scope rather than topi- the joke. The show celebrates a new good art. s
of traditional roles (the impotent world tapestry. Huma Bhabha’s to- need to personify the natural world cality, and we, as the audience, get a breed and mood in contemporary
beast, the sexualized woman), and temic piece, My Skull Is Too Small, and be less alien to ourselves, one more interesting, representative and American art: adeptly integrating Images: Whitney Museum
fuse the modern (recycling, repro- made of detritus looks ominous another and our environments. accessible show and dialogue. The old and new, positing an holistic, re- of American Art.
duction) with the past (mythological and dreary at first glance, but mar-
beast, antique belongings). ries the dystopian with hopefulness So, what does the demographics
Interpretations of American identity in that this reconstituted object of profile of this “Women’s Biennial”

3. Tam Tran, Battle Cry 5. Jessica Jackson Hutchins, Couch For a Long Time 7. Pae White, Smoke Knows
4. Maureen Gallace, Cape Cod, Early September 6. Huma Bhabha, My Skull Is Too Small

p96 sloane / spring 2010 p97 sloane / spring 2010


arts 1.

up to the transgres-
sive theme of this
year’s title, No Guts
No Glory. Stand-
outs for me: GL
Brierley’s metamor-
phosing forms at
Madder139, Anita
Beckers’ booth for
Maria Jose Arjona’s
performance, Israeli
artists Yuval Pudik’s
hybrid collages at
Kim Light/LightBox
and Tamara Kosti-
anovsky hanging
meat fabric sculp-
tures at Y Gallery.

Scope, over at the


light-suffused space
at Lincoln’s Damros-
ch Park, about which
I was most intrigued
by the program in-
Image: The Armory Show cluding film, fashion
and photography and painting were Volta, the sister-fair to the Armory and an auction of opportunities/
prominent. Jessica Rankin’s luminous and an invitational show which mentorship for young artists, but this
Dark Star at Carlier Gebauer became complements the Armory’s struc- ambitious interdisciplinary approach
by Jennifer Guinn one of my favorite finds of the week; ture with its carryover of the single- needs to be better integrated to feel
the artist’s “embroidery painting” on artist focus. Volta is much smaller more finished. The film room in the
If you are an art world insider or art Fountain, Pool, Verge and Red Dot. work I saw all week, especially in Pier organdy creates translucent, floating in scale and approachable; many of back seemed an impromptu addition
enthusiast then Armory Arts Week Furthermore, this year the activities 94 which housed the contemporary. thought—transitory, personal, and the artists were on-hand at the gal- and was too small, the “sweet shop”
(AAW) is fast becoming the pin- were expanded across the boroughs While Pier 92 showed many estab- abstract. There was the “cross-pol- leries to speak about their work and bus out front had no one around but
nacle, amassing the largest, most with galleries open late, lectures and lished names with appropriately lofty lination” of MOMA-feature Marina had editorial input on their represen- the nonplused driver (artist?) and
impressive and diverse collection of tours, installations, performances, price tags, I found the overall selection Abramovic and Whitney Biennial’s tation in the catalogue, significantly the fashion exhibit in the annex got
international contemporary fine art and parties. Inarguably, if you can not as impressive as I’d anticipated, James Casebere at Sean Kelly, as with more collaborative in process and little traffic despite being a collabo-
for one week each spring in NYC. only make it to one, the Armory is though there were singular standouts other Biennial artists Dawn Clements presentation than a fair the size of ration with Chicks on Speed--again,
Despite the U.S. economic collapse the “grande dame” in terms of scale, in recent pieces like Joan Mitchell’s at Pierogi and Maureen Gallace at the Armory can afford to be. Volta, German, and renowned for imagina-
over the last couple of years, AAW professionalism and diversity, but Red Tree at Hollis Taggert, and Rob- 303. The new addition, Armory Focus, to me, felt cool and more European tive work. Scope was friendlier and
reported record attendance for 2010 the smaller fairs feature a broader ert Rauschenberg’s collage, Mirthday this year featured 22 Berlin galleries, in its aesthetic, and somewhat dark. more Pop than Volta—more L.A. less
and good sales, though the ostensi- range of lesser-known artists, are Man at Faurschou. Overall, the New a savvy statement since the Berlin art The crowd was more hip and less L.E.S.— and less resonant for it. Fa-
bly lowered pricing surely accounts more collaborative and willing to York galleries and some of the German scene is known for its idiosyncratic Louboutin-ed than the Armory, the vorites here for me were the Asian
for some of the resurgence in the take risks, and give new collectors had the strongest offerings, but the in- and daring nature; perhaps wary of champagne less prevalent and the and Italian galleries/artists for their
art market. This year, new satellite opportunities for relatively afford- termingled periods made calling Pier becoming obsolete the organizers prices more accessible. This show is high quality and formalism: Kwang
fairs announced themselves—Inde- able buys that the Armory does not. 92 the “modern” somewhat of a mis- are looking to associate the fair with the American version of the success- Sung Park and Doyang Zu with their
pendent, the Korean Art Show and nomer. Pier 94, however, was stron- bold counterparts for inspiration and ful Volta Basel begun in 2005 but this large-scale abstractions at Gallery
Dutch Art Now—alongside familiar The the twelfth edition of the Armory ger and more heterogeneous than I support. year felt a little safe, not quite living Yeh, Fulvio di Piazza’s biomorphic
fairs like ADAA Art Show, Pulse, Show was the largest yet with nearly had expected, many galleries focused
Scope, Volta, and smaller, less struc- 300 galleries from over 30 countries on single-artist representation which 1. Alex Prager, Rachel and Friends (from the Week-end series)
2. Evol, Hof 4, Gerichtstr
tured and market-driven ones like and showcased some of the best art- kept it from feeling overwhelming,

p98 sloane / spring 2010 p99 sloane / spring 2010


(continued) subversive photographs at M + B, follow the focus on Berlin? This fair
painting at Bonelli ArteContempo- Miki Taira’s glass-encased creatures could supplant Art Basel Miami’s es-
ranea Mantova. I was most pleased and Chiharu Nishizawa’s twist on tra- teemed position. If satellite fairs like
to see the popular art inclusion of ditional Japanese painting at Tokyo Pulse further distinguish themselves
R.Crumb, Robert Williams (also in Gallery + BTAP, Julian Lwin’s Stasis as the platforms for new talent by
the Whitney Biennial), and Evol— installation of static-filled tvs (a de- keeping the fairs distinctive, fresh
the last of which, a German street ceptively simple commentary on the and intimate, the Armory may prove
artist, showed some of the freshest endless utility value, noise and pro- to be the old guard: the staid, over-
works around: spray paintings with duction of garbage in our lives). Of blown affair that has little bearing
stencils on cardboard done so deftly all the satellite fairs, this one felt the on or connection to the emerging
they transcend photo-realism. most thought-out, relevant in con- art scene, more market- than artist-
tent and engaging. Pulse showed driven with little to offer but “good
From the entrance in, Pulse NY ex- that it is not necessary to feature a buys.” Finally, the competition and
hibited a marked shift in seriousness- specific theme or region in order to recession recovery could continue
-the selected artists more confident make a fair cohesive, instead show- to drive down prices, force galler-
in technique, mature in style and ing how the spirit of democratiza- ies to work harder internationally for
with distinctive points of view. While tion—an international roster of ex- discoveries and the fairs to become
hibitors presenting more innovative, daring and inter-
2.
high quality works active, and ultimately change the
of widely varying hierarchy of the art market/world.
media, scale and More immediately, December will
style from both reveal whether or not the Miami
emerging and fairs acknowledge the challenge and
known artists—can endeavor to steal the attention back
be used to accen- from New York. s
tuate the integrity
and differences of ­ Jennifer Guinn studied German

the artwork show- and Austrian fin de siecle art and
cased. culture at the University of Texas
at Austin. She lived in Germany
As the recession for a few years after her studies
levels off, we shall and is now back in the US, living in
see how AAW Brooklyn. She spends as much time
evolves through as possible looking at and writing
the formation of about art and is currently at work on
new fairs, collabo- her first book of essays.
rations with differ-
ent institutions and
scenes abroad and
within New York,
and what the com-
petition means for
Miami’s fairs. It was
a pragmatic move
there was no imposed thematic ap- by the Armory this year highlighting
proach, the element of sound fig- some of the same artists featured in
ured into some of the works, espe- the Whitney Biennial and opening
cially the site-specific installations. I within a week of one another, and
have many favorites from this show with this mutualism and new pro-
but to highlight a few: Alex Prager’s grams like Armory Focus—what will

p100 sloane / spring 2010


T ania del Rio is a gradu-
ate of the Minneapolis College of
Art and Design with a BFA in ani-
mation. In 2003, her manga entry,
Lovesketch, was selected to ap-
pear in TOKYOPOP’s Rising Stars
of Manga Anthology, Volume 2.
She quickly moved on to working
for Archie Comics as the writer
and artist for the comic Sabrina
the Teenage Witch, a monthly
comic that was given a complete
shoujo manga makeover in 2004.
Over the course of 5 years she
completed 42 issues, ending the
series with issue #100.

Del Rio has also done additional


work for Archie, including work
on, Sonic the Hedgehog, Josie
and the Pussycats, and on the
forthcoming Cheryl Blossom and
Katy Keene. During this time she
also did some writing for Marvel
on Spider Man/Arana Special:
The Hunter Revealed, and edited
the Mangaka America book featur-
ing some of the hottest emerging
North American manga artists.

She currently resides in Los An-


geles with her two corgis and
husband, award-winning graphic
designer, Will Staehle. Del Rio’s
personal projects include the web
comic, My poorly Drawn Life, and
a Victorian-inspired art business,
The Bazaarium, she runs with her
husband.

p103 sloane / spring 2010


Q What has your
experience been like working in
a traditionally male-dominated in-
dustry? 

While comics is still a primarily


male-dominated field, I think it’s
easier for a woman to break into
the industry than ever before. The
manga boom helped a lot with
that because there was a sudden
influx of shoujo comics aimed at
girls specifically, and more girls
started getting into comics for the
first time.

This created more of a market


for female creators to step in and
make the kinds stories that girls
would want to read. In addition,
Archie comics, unlike some of
the other major publishers, has
always had a high percentage of
female readers, so I was already
working in a very supportive envi-
ronment where I had a lot of cre-
ative freedom to tell a girl-oriented
story filled with magic, romance,
and adventure.

I feel fortunate to be a creator in


this field, not necessarily because I
happen to be female, but because
the industry itself is extremely
competitive regardless of one’s
gender. At the end of the day, it’s
all about making a good story and
creating good art, and I take pride
in the fact that I’ve been able to
make comics for an audience that
has largely been overlooked by
the industry.  

p105 sloane / spring 2010


Q You seem to have
an interesting partnership/collab-
oration with your husband—how
has your life’s direction and pro-
fession helped you to redefine the
“traditional” idea of marriage and
home life? 

We met in our freshman year of


art school and our relationship
has always been very collabora-
tive, art-wise. While we were still
in school, we formed an LLC to
self-publish our comics that we
would sell at conventions during
the summer. I guess you could say
our marriage was never set up to
be a “traditional” one, despite the
fact that my husband works at an
office, and I work from home. Nei-
ther of us would be content with
me being solely a homemaker.

Personally, it’s important to me


to contribute to the household in-
come, even though comics doesn’t
pay well. As for my husband, he
has always pushed me to have the
most successful career that I can.
Whenever freelance is slow, he
encourages me to take advantage
of the time to work on my own art
projects. Given that I am home
most of the time, I do tend to take
care of most of the household
chores, but to be honest, I dis-
like housework and cooking. That
said, he hates it even more than I
do, so I take it on as a way to give
him time to work on his personal
art projects when he gets home
from the day job. It’s almost like
we take “shifts” where we give
each other time and space to cre-
ate art. I think that’s what a good
marriage is all about - supporting
your partner individually while
collaborating on common goals.

p107 sloane / spring 2010


“It’s the worst thing… getting old,” thought of going under the knife, When I was growing up, my father any given day. Yoga was my peace,
an elder Persian man uttered in my however, makes my stomach feel as constantly told me, “Make friends my quiet—it is that for most yogis,
direction. I was sitting on a bench in though it’s crawling up the back of with everyone; never limit yourself I think.
front of the Beverly Glen Deli staring my throat. to one group or one way of think-
up at the clouds. He was dressed in ing.” Perhaps this mentality is why More often than not, I strode into the
a racer’s biking uniform stretching Ironically, I come from a family that my father’s high school senior class studio, dropped my mat, and laid
out his hamstrings with the assis- embraces and encourages plastic voted him most popular. down, rested my eyes, my mind,
tance of a near by trash can. surgery. My mother had her nose and and my body before standing up
boobs “done” when I was 4, her eyes My father’s words stuck with me. and working for 90 silent minutes. I
“These guys,” he continues point- “done” when I was 14, and her face Throughout high school, I had my ath- had no interest in “making friends”
ing to a table of men similarly dress, lifted when I was 26. Most of my aunts lete friends, my fellow English junkies, or becoming buddies with my fellow
“can all ride 30 miles and just sit, and and cousins have had similar surger- as well as the pretty, popular, partying yogis—I kept to myself. As did most
order pancakes and eggs and sau- ies; some of the men have had work girls with whom I’d known and with everyone else. And, frankly, I liked it
sages. I have to stretch, or I won’t be done too (boob jobs excluded). whom I’d socialized with since sixth that way.
able to walk for a week.” grade. Different weekends went to
So: why does my body have such a hanging out with different groups, These days, it’s a different story.
Looking at him, I began to wonder visceral reaction to the thought of do- and I prided myself on being able to
if it was the aging that is so bad, or ing the same? Perhaps it was seeing walk into any classroom or get-to- The proof? My new friends from
is it that as we get older, we begin the aftermath of my mother’s face lift gether and feel comfortable because yoga.
to notice the things in our lives that surgery: the swelling, the pain, and I was friendly with most everyone.
are lacking and that really matter like sitting up while sleeping. Or perhaps What can I say? I have always been Recently, I met up with two fellow
purpose and love. it’s that I suspect that my relatives my father’s daughter. yogis for a class at a studio I don’t
would look just as beautiful without normally attend, led by a teacher
But, aging is a difficult thing, for any of the surgeries. Or perhaps it’s Throughout my twenties, my ability whose classes I don’t often make.
women in particular. I see it ev- that I really want to believe what my to make friends didn’t wane, but I cer- We spent weeks e-mailing and ar-
eryday on the faces of women my parent’s taught me as a child: ”It’s tainly chose more selectively. Time ranging this get-together—a 10 a.m.
age—and even younger–who, have what’s on the inside that counts.” is precious; I can only give so much “boot camp” class with a notoriously
already begun to have their skin, love and attention to so many people. tough teacher, followed by an indul-
peeled, pulled and pricked. To me, Honestly, thus far, I love getting old- And, admittedly, these days I give a gent brunch. On my walk to the stu-
they all begin to look alike, and I’m er. With each year that passes, I birth lot of time to my yoga practice. dio, my stomach flipped excitedly a
reminded of Nicole Kidman in the a new part of myself that I never few times. Yoga with friends! What
movie Stepford Wives. knew existed. At 30, I started creat- Considering how many hours I spend a rare treat!
ing collages, at 33, I started writing in the yoga studio, you’d think I’d
I am fortunate that at 36 the only poetry, and at 35, I started sharing it have made a real yoga friend or two I can’t say much for my practice that
effects of aging that I feel are hang- with people. by now. morning—10 a.m. is an odd time
overs now lasting 3 days rather than for me to hit the yoga mat. In hind-
three hours, hips that are soar after a My boyfriend often says that he be- The truth? Not really. sight, I should have woken up early
day-long hike, and noticeable laugh- lieves that death could be our great- enough to eat a light breakfast be-
lines around my eyes that are, how- est adventure. I think the same could When I first started Bikram yoga, cause my blood sugar was too low.
ever slowly, turning into wrinkles. be true about aging. s I was too caught in my own head Although I didn’t feel my best, my
and my own practice to think about two friends fed me great servings of
While I may not opt for injections of —Ginna Christensen is an organic those around me. My studio stood their own strength, focus, and calm,
Botox or Restylane, I do use the best foods aficionado, avid cook, blogger, Graphic: Kristian Goddard as a safe, quiet, peaceful refuge, cool steadiness. They helped me re-
creams I can afford. I have also (mi- and the founder of 27ground.com, in which I didn’t have to make idle member to smile, to shrug it off, to
raculously) given up coffee for Mat- a custom rug manufacturer based chit-chat, or be “outgoing,” or be let go. They carried me through…
cha tea (anti-aging properties!) The in Los Angeles, CA. anything other than how I felt on As friends oftentimes do.

p108 sloane / spring 2010 p109 sloane / spring 2010


(continued) and practice with yoga bloggers —Marique Newell is a writer, blog- Thirty-fried
Afterward, we faced the cold and “in real life,” to introduce myself to ger, and yogi based in Boston. An
walked to a nearby restaurant for complete strangers in the hot room, avid fan of live music, literature, lo- by Leala C. Munson
brunch. Great conversation ensued, to attend parties and happy hours cal designers and artists, and the hot
the kind that happens between new hosted by fellow yogis, to give out yoga studio. Read more on her blog:
friends, the kind that carries itself in my e-mail address and my phone hannahjustbreathe.wordpress.com. It has been said that “40 is the new author of the book, Future Shock, Bureau of Labor Statistics, women-
a rush of shared stories interrupted number so that fun post-yoga plans 30.” Does that mean 30 is the new states that people will experience owned small businesses will gener-
with fits of laughter and a flurry of can be made. 20? Absolutely not. The 20’s were the more stress when subjected to a lot ate more than half of the 9.72 mil-
follow-up questions. We covered party years, the road trip years, the of change in a short period of time. lion new small business jobs and
yoga, of course, as well as house I don’t know whom to thank for all of multiple boyfriend years and the “find Change is inevitable and constant in approximately one-third of the 15.3
renovations, fashion, blogging, nutri- this—my yoga teachers for encour- yourself” years. They were fun and all of our lives, especially in the fast- million total new jobs anticipated by
tion, Amsterdam, American medical aging such behavior, or my fellow necessary in our lives. Now we are paced world of today. 2018. Currently there is an increase
practices, outdoor markets, English yogis for showing such interest and in our 30’s. History tells us we should in the number of women taking col-
cuisine, and child-proofing a home. warmth, or the universe for putting be married with a couple kids at this Businesses and Education lege courses. Adult education and
me in such close proximity with so point. Throughout history women It is not enough to be busy. So are degree completion programs are
And then, after two decadent hours many fascinating, friendly people. who were single, independent and the ants. The question is: what are thriving all over the country and on-
of visiting, eating, and giggling, we intelligent were frowned upon and we busy about? line. Whether starting college, fin-
gave one another tight hugs and Or, if I should simply thank my yoga, called names like spinster, hag, witch —Henry David Thoreau ishing a degree or obtaining gradu-
made promises to plan another for helping to remind me to stay and old maid. But those ideas and be- ate degrees, more women in their
yoga-and-brunch date soon. open, to anything, to anyone, just as liefs do not apply anymore. In the book, The 10 Women You’ll 30’s through 50’s are registered at
my father always said. s Be Before You’re 35, author Alison colleges and universities across the
I stumbled home exhausted, elated, Today, women in their 30’s are all James explains what we will all go country and on the internet.
and carrying a slice of coconut cake over the map. Many women marry through from college into the thir-
to enjoy later. My body hummed and have children before turning ties. It is a must-have book for all of Cell phones, Computers,
from the deep yoga rinse; my heart 30; however, the majority of thirty- us in the thirty age range. She lists Blackberries and Health
felt as full and happy as my stom- somethings in the United States do the 10 different women, or stages of Beeped and pinged, interrupted and
ach. I made a mental note to send not. Dr. Terri Orbuch, a relationship life, we will go through. Finding your inundated, overloaded and hurried
my two new friends a quick note expert and author of Five Simple true self is the goal of these stages: ­—that’s how we live today…What’s
thanking them for a lovely morning. Steps to Take Your Marriage From needed is a renaissance of attention
Good to Great, states, “Educated 1. New Graduate —a revaluing and cultivating of the
And then I thought: “It is funny, this women tend to be more confident 2. Dollarless Diva art of attention to help us achieve
community of yogis.” about who they are and less will- 3. Worker Bee depth of thought and relations in
ing to settle for a man who doesn’t 4. Party Girl this complex, high-tech time.
We share in so much together—in meet their standards.” We are the 5. Body-Conscious Babe —Maggie Jackson, New York Times,
the hot room, in the locker room, on new breed of 30; we are changing 6. Chameleon June 22, 2008
our blogs—and yet we all experience the way people look at age and life 7. Crisis Chick
our yoga so differently, so individu- roles. Here we are, in uncharted ter- 8. Ms. Independence When you stop and think about
ally. We stand so alone on our mats. ritory with no guidebook to tell us 9. Wirl (half woman/have girl) your daily routine, with how many
how to deal with the issues we will 10. True You electronic devices do you come
I used to think yoga was so very face. Should I get married now? Do I in contact in a 24-hour span? Now
solitary. want to have children? Is this where Some of us are in high-ranking po- multiply that by 365. That is a pretty
I want to stay? How come I didn’t get sitions at major corporations while large number, and that is only one
And yet, with enough effort—or, that promotion? All these thoughts many others are breaking away from year! According to an article in Total
sometimes, hardly any effort at all— take over the already churning the ‘norm’ and starting their own Health by Dr. Sherrill Sellman, a na-
we connect. We share our yoga. We minds of today’s women in their thir- businesses. In the midst of these turopathic doctor, psychotherapist
share ourselves. We make a com- ties. What toll do these overwhelm- difficult economic times, women and author, “The 100 trillion cells of
munity; we work as a team; we be- ing thoughts have on us physically who started their own businesses the human body communicate with
come friends. and mentally? Regardless of our have been doing quite well. Accord- each other by subtle low electro-
incomes, occupations or education, ing to a study by the Guardian Life magnetic signals as well as through
I understand this now. And this un- stress can sneak into our lives with- Small Business Research Institute biochemical reactions. These signal
derstanding has enabled me to meet out out our knowledge. Alvin Toffler, and based on information for the pathways carry the information that
Photo: Colleen Reilly

p110 sloane / spring 2010 p111 sloane / spring 2010


(continued) give your brain a break. Even some- education and careers, we didn’t one hour away from all electronic
then become translated into all the thing as innocuous as a digital alarm jump into the carpool lane right devices. Every week: increase the
biochemical and physiological pro- clock on the night stand next to your away. Now some women are real- amount of time away from devices.
cesses of the body. Continuous ex- bed can affect your brain and cause izing they want children before they Try it and note how much better you
posure to electromagnetic radiation sleep disturbances. pass 40 years old. If you are lucky feel after one month.
(EMR), in particular information car enough to already have your ideal
rying EMR, can drastically distort Another major issue we face is our boyfriend or husband, you may be Stress can kill. It can lead to emo-
and disrupt these cellular commu- biological clock. Within the past 20 able to start having babies imme- tional problems such as depression
nication pathways resulting in ab- years, women have been getting diately. However, the new trend is and anxiety. It can cause increases
normal cellular metabolism and, married and having children later becoming motherhood by artificial in physical problems such as heart
ultimately, disease. Cell function de- in life. One recent study from the insemination or adoption. Now, in- palpitations, fatigue, heart attacks
teriorates; cell membranes harden; Department of Health stated that stead of the stress of family inquiries and strokes. Removing stress is cru-
nutrients can’t get in and toxins can’t over the past decade, the number (I am sure I am not the only 35 year cial for a longer, healthier life. Our
get out. The breakdown of healthy of babies born to women aged 40 old woman tired of my grandmother thirties, should be wonderful. It is
cellular processes leads to biologi- and over has nearly doubled from continuously questioning when I will the new beginning of our lives so
cal chaos in our bodies.” Find a way 13,555 in 1998 to 26,419 in 2008. marry and produce grandchildren) enjoy it! s
to cut back on all the devices and Since many of us were focused on you face the new stressors of family
life and motherhood. —Leala Munson is a child and adoles-
cent advocate, an academic, writer
Busyness and Stress and singer. Her experience includes
If we are unhappy, busyness makes working in higher education at Con-
a convenient excuse so that we don’t coria College and Harvard Universi-
1 Unplug yourself from all electronic children’s department for a little while. Lis-
have to acknowledge what’s not ty and with at-risk adolescents. Her
devices for at least 1 hour every day. ten to those children’s conversations. Look
up your favorite book from childhood. working in our jobs or our families. dream is to open a center for teen
2 Schedule personal time into daily routines. —Marc Lesser, Less: Accomplishing girls where they can learn leader-
14 Handwrite (not email or text!) a letter to More by Doing Less ship skills, confidence, life skills and
3 Close your eyes and do not think about someone you haven’t talked to in awhile. realize their full potentials.
work or family issues.
15 Discover your passion (reading, writ- Something women in their 30’s tend
4 Listen to music. ing, journaling, singing, knitting, etc.) and to ignore is free time. Just a couple
do it at least once every day. hours of relaxation and “me” time
5 Exercise daily. can make a significant boost in your
16 Play a game. A real board game. Online
6 Go for a short (or long) walk through games if no other people are available.
mental and physical health. In the
a park. book, The Overworked American,
17 Write lists about yourself. economist Juliet Schor points out
7 Be kind to a stranger. In your busy life, The jobs you’ve had, the names of the the importance of leisure time and
find some way of being someone’s surprise boys/men you dated, or the names of
how we have less time for it now.
benefactor by giving change to a homeless friends with whom you’ve lost touch
person, helping someone cross the street, through the years. Schor mentions that despite all the
donating time or money to a cause. new innovations and technology
18 Learn something new—a new lan- that could make our lives easier, we
8 Volunteer to help someone or a non- guage, a musical instrument, painting.
actually take even more time to do
profit organization of your choice. (Something you have always secretly
wanted to do but never invested the time finish tasks now. Maybe we forgot
9 Try to cut down on caffeine and sugar. or effort in.) how to relax. Opportunities for re-
You’ll be less jittery. laxation, free time and hobbies are
19 Visit a museum. Go back to see the
all over the place. Yoga classes are
10 Hang out with friends and DO NOT whale hanging from the ceiling at the
discuss work. Museum of Natural History that you saw becoming as common as Starbucks
during your 5th grade field trip. and many companies are offer-
11 See a comedy movie. ing yoga classes in the workplace.
20 Clean clutter from your house or apart- Spend a couple hours a day reading
12 Laugh, laugh, laugh. ment. When your rooms are clutter-free,
you have more incentive to make your a book, taking a slow walk along a
13 Go to your local library and sit in the entire life clutter-free. waterfront park or challenge yourself
to some unplugged time. Start with
Graphic: Kristian Goddard
p112 sloane / spring 2010 p113 sloane / spring 2010
Proper ventilation.
by Joanne Colan
Sighed lately? Think about it. When It occurred to me I hadn’t sighed in or exhaustion. We sigh when one breathing, it can feel like pumping breath, which helps shift your focus where in between inhaling until you
was the last time you consciously al- the way it occurs to me to open a of life’s more intense episodes—a air in and out at balloon-bursting into the present moment. Puffed up feel comfortably full, and exhaling
lowed yourself the luxury of a deep, window and let fresh air into a room horrid argument, a bone-racking capacity! However, by not engaging with cleansing air, you disrupt your as you let go of preoccupations and
long, gut-extending breath? And then where the atmosphere has become sob— finally lets up and we can ac- the diaphragm, abdomen and chest internal non-stop chatter and upon fears. Breath awareness provides an
released it audibly, slowly, purpose- thick and stuffy. I needed fresh air! tually breathe again. Indeed, to sigh cavity when breathing, we are add- exhaling you, release some of that imperceptible shift in focus and en-
fully, mindfully? It might have been Indulging in a rich, delicious sip of is to acknowledge the burdensome ing stress to our body, compromis- built up tension. In more ways than ergy. Properly ventilated, you’ll feel
the last time you took a yoga class air and then surrendering to the c’est la vie kind of suffering we must ing our immune system and creating one, it feels great to breathe a sigh centered, present and still. s
or ascended to the top of a flight of sensation of it releasing from me sometimes endure. But the inten- a shortage of oxygen to the blood. of relief.
stairs. Perhaps it was an involuntary brought a stillness that felt all at once tional mindful sigh is another animal Sounds pretty dramatic but surpris-
altogether. ingly it doesn’t kill us; we survive When is sighing useful and how can
quite well considering! Nonetheless, you apply it? For starters, when you
It’s not news that oxygen keeps us in order to alleviate some stress, rid feel you need to let in some fresh
alive. Taking a deep breath is cleans- our lungs of gaseous toxins and let air! Each day can presents choices,
ing, yes, but it’s also vital for living. in some fresh air, it certainly doesn’t deadlines, problems, decisions, bur-
We breathe around the clock without hurt to permit oneself some con- dens, relationships and attention. We
thinking about it, yet breathing is nev- scious mindful ‘sing out loud’ sigh- leave little room for ourselves, and
er on our To Do list or scribbled down ing once every so often. we are always chasing what’s next.
at 2pm Tuesday in our appointments As well as providing our hard-work- Inevitably, the weariness, sorrow, or
book. Our breathing is just always ing body with some purifying ven- exhaustion of life’s challenges can
there, keeping up with us no matter tilation, sighing can be used as a cause us to sigh rather heavily. It is,
what comes our way. It kicks up a useful “reboot.” The sigh, I happily after all, a good way to let off steam
notch when we have to run to catch (re)discovered, is a handy portal and release a little pressure. Better,
a train, or bowl after our toddler, and to the now of any given moment. though, to punctuate the day with
it slows down to a comfortable state That rich full diaphragmatic breath purposeful healing sighs of relief. A
of invisible when we watch TV or sit properly oxygenates the blood, thus mindful sigh in all its diaphragmatic
at the computer. In reality though, all calming our nervous system. The in- glory can become your very own
that auto-pilot, mindless breathing is flow of oxygen nourishes our brain, portable on-the-go retreat. Let the
robbing us of some essential health we feel less fatigued and emotional- thorough exchange of air cleanse
benefits. ly balanced. A conscious deep sigh you from the inside out. Be con-
also means a full awareness of your scious of the calm that exists some-
We don’t often indulge in the kind
of breath that makes us feel we’ve
inflated our entire upper body like a
Photo: Colleen Reilly balloon. Rather, the rapid in-and-out
sigh, nothing out of the ordinary. But familiar yet long forgotten. I was in- that best describes how we typically
if you put down what you’re doing for stantly calmer; I was relaxed; I felt breathe is known as chest breath-
a moment, mark a physical and men- refreshed. “Did I also have a slightly ing. On a physical level, shallow
tal pause, and bring your attention different perspective than just mo- breathing doesn’t allow for a com-
inward, what happens when you let ments before? Was I slightly giddy plete exchange of gases through
yourself consciously sigh? Try it. Inhale on all that new oxygen?” Whatever the lungs. That only happens when
through the nose until your belly is full, it was, I decided in that contented we do what’s called diaphragmatic
and then gently expel the air through state, that sighing was worth a little breathing where the diaphragm fully
the mouth in a steady, slow, discern- investigating. contracts downward, thus expand-
ible sigh. Notice anything? When I did ing the chest cavity and causing
this recently, I noticed I hadn’t sighed in Commonly, we associate involun- the belly to extend outward. When
Graphic: Kristian Goddard
a while. And this got me thinking. tary signs with weariness, sorrow we’re not used to diaphragmatic

p114 sloane / spring 2010 p115 sloane / spring 2010


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p116 sloane / spring 2010