Clothing in India

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Clothing in India varies on the different ethnicity, geography, climate and cultural traditions
of the people of that region. Historically, male and female clothing has evolved from
simple Langotas, and loincloths to cover the body to elaborate costumes not only used in
daily wear but also on festive occasions as well as rituals and dance performances. In
urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all strata. India
also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibers, colours and material of clothing.
Colour codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. For
instance, Hindu ladies wear white clothes to indicate mourning, while Parsis and Christians
wear white to weddings. The clothing in India also encompasses the wide variety of Indian
embroidery.
Contents
[hide]

1History

2Female clothing
2.1Traditional clothing

2.1.1Sari and wrapped garments

2.1.2Salwar Kameez

2.1.3Lehenga Choli (skirt and blouse)

3Male clothing
3.1Traditional clothing

3.1.1Dhoti

3.1.2Panche or Lungi

3.1.3Sherwani

3.1.4Jama
3.2Headgear

3.2.1Dastar

3.2.2Pheta

3.2.3Mysore Peta

3.2.4Rajasthani safa

3.2.5Gandhi cap
4Contemporary clothing
5See also
6Bibliography
7Notes
8References
9Further reading

History[edit]
Main article: History of clothing in India

The Didarganj Yakshi depicting the dhoti wrap

India's recorded history of clothing goes back to the 5th millennium BC in the Indus Valley
civilization where cotton was spun, woven and dyed. Bone needles and
wooden spindles have been unearthed in excavations at the site. The cotton industry in
ancient India was well developed, and several of the methods survive until
today. Herodotus, an ancient Greek historian described Indian cotton as "a wool exceeding
in beauty and goodness that of sheep". Indian cotton clothing was well adapted to the dry,
hot summers of thesubcontinent. The grand epic Mahabharata, composed by about 400
BC, tells of the god Krishna staving off Draupadi's disrobing by bestowing an unending
saree upon her.
Most of the present knowledge of ancient Indian clothing comes
from rock sculptures and paintings in cave monuments such as Ellora. These images show
dancers and goddesses wearing what appears to be a dhoti wrap, a predecessor to the
modern sari.The upper castes dressed themselves in fine muslin and wore gold
ornaments The Indus civilisation also knew the process of silk production. Recent analysis
of Harappan silk fibres in beads have shown that silk was made by the process of reeling, a
process known only to China until the early centuries AD.
[1]

[2]

[3][better source needed]

[4]

[5]

According to the Greek historian Arrian:

[6]

The Buddha, in Greco-Buddhist style, 1st2nd century CE, Gandhara(Modern eastern Afghanistan).

"The Indians use linen clothing, as says Nearchus, made from the flax taken from the trees,
about which I have already spoken. And this flax is either whiter in colour than any other
flax, or the people being black make the flax appear whiter. They have a linen frock
reaching down halfway between the knee and the ankle, and a garment which is partly
thrown round the shoulders and partly rolled round the head. The Indians who are very
well-off wear earrings of ivory; for they do not all wear them. Nearchus says that the Indians
dye their beards various colours; some that they may appear white as the whitest, others
dark blue; others have them red, others purple, and others green. Those who are of any
rank have umbrellas held over them in the summer. They wear shoes of white leather,
elaborately worked, and the soles of their shoes are many-coloured and raised high, in
order that they may appear taller."
Evidence from the 1st century AD shows some cultural exchanges with the Greeks. IndoGreek influence is seen in the Greco-Buddhist art of the time. The Buddhas were portrayed
as wearing the Greek himation, which is the forerunner of the modern sam ghti that forms
a part of the Kasaya of Buddhist monks. During the Maurya and Gupta period, the people
continued to wear the three piece unstitched clothing as in Vedic times. The main items of
clothing were the Antariya made of white cotton or muslin, tied to the waist by
a sash called Kayabandh and a scarf called the Uttariya used to drape the top half of the
body.
[7]

[citation needed]

New trade routes, both overland and overseas, created a cultural exchange with Central
Asia and Europe. Romans bought indigo for dyeing and cotton cloth as articles of clothing.
Trade with China via the Silk road introduced silk textiles into India. The Chinese had a
monopoly in the silk trade and kept its production process a trade secret. However, this
monopoly ended when, according to legend, a Chinese princess smuggled mulberry seeds
and silkworms in her headdress when she was sent to marry the king of Khotan(present
day Xinjiang). From there, the production of silk spread throughout Asia, and by AD 140,
the practise had been established in India. Chanakya's treatise on public administration,
the Arthashastra written around 3rd century BC, briefly describes the norms followed in silk
weaving.
[8]

[9]

Painting on wooden panel discovered by Aurel Stein in Dandan Oilik, depicting the legend of the princess who hid silk
worm eggs in her headdress to smuggle them out of China to the Kingdom of Khotan.

A variety of weaving techniques were employed in ancient India, many of which survive to
the present day. Silk and cotton were woven into various designs and motifs, each region
developing its distinct style and technique. Famous among these weaving styles were
the Jamdani, Kasika vastra of Varanasi, butidar and theIlkal saree.
Brocades of silk
were woven with gold and silver threads and were deeply influenced by Persian designs.
The Mughals played a vital role in the enhancement of the art, and the paisley and Latifa
Buti are fine examples of Mughal influence
[citation needed]

[10]

Dyeing of clothes in ancient India was practised as an art form. Five primary colours
(Suddha-varnas) were identified and complex colours (Misra varnas) were categorised by
their many hues. Sensitivity was shown to the most subtlest of shades; the ancient
treatise, Vishnudharmottara states five tones of white, namelyIvory, Jasmine, August moon,
August clouds after the rain and the conch shell. The commonly used dies
were indigo(Nila), madder red and safflower. The technique of mordant dyeing was
prevalent in India since the second millennium BC. Resist
dyeing and Kalamkari techniques were hugely popular and such textiles were the chief
exports.
[11]

[12][a]

[13]

Integral to the history of Indian clothing is the Kashmiri shawl. Kashmiri shawl varieties
include the Shahtoosh, popularly known as the 'ring shawl' and the pashminawool shawls,
historically called pashm. Textiles of wool finds mention as long back as the Vedic times in
association with Kashmir; the Rig Veda refers to the Valley of Sindh as being abundant in
sheep,
and the god Pushan has been addressed as the 'weaver of garments',
which evolved into the term pashm for the wool of the area. Woolen shawls have been
mentioned in Afghan texts of the 3rd century BC, but reference to the Kashmir work is done
in the 16th century AD. The sultan of Kashmir, Zain-ul-Abidin is generally credited with the
founding of the industry. A story says that the Roman emperor Aurelian received a
purplepallium from a Persian king, made of Asian wool of the finest quality.
The
shawls were dyed red or purple, red dye procured from cochineal insects and purple
obtained by a mixture of red and blue from indigo The most prized kashmiri shawls were
the Jamavar and the Kanika Jamavar, woven using weaving spools with coloured thread
called kani and a single shawl taking more than a year for completion and requiring 100 to
1500 kanis depending on the degree of elaboration.
[citation needed] [b]

[14]

[15]

[citation needed]

[16]

[14]

Indian textiles were traded from ancient times with China, Southeast Asia and the Roman
Empire. The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea mentions mallow cloth, muslinsand coarse
cottons. Port towns like Masulipatnam and Barygaza won fame for its production of
muslins and fine cloth. Trade with the Arabs who were middlemen in the spice
trade between India and Europe brought Indian textiles into Europe, where it was favored
by royalty in the 17th18th century. The Dutch, French and British East India Companies
competed for monopoly of the spice trade in the Indian Ocean, but were posed with the
problem of payment for spices, which was in gold or silver. To counter this
[17][c]

[18]

problem, bullion was sent to India to trade for the textiles, a major portion of which were
subsequently traded for spices in other trade posts, which then were traded along with the
remaining textiles in London. Printed Indian calicos, chintz, muslins and patterned silk
flooded the English market and in time the designs were copied onto imitation prints by
English textile manufacturers, reducing the dependence on India.
[19]

The British rule in India and the subsequent oppression following the Bengal
Partition sparked a nationwide Swadeshi movement. One of the integral aims of the
movement was to attain self-sufficiency, and to promote Indian goods while boycotting
British goods in the market. This was idealised in the production of Khadi. Khadi and its
products were encouraged by the nationalist leaders over British goods, while also being
seen as a means to empower the rural artisans.
[20]

[21]

Female clothing[edit]

Indo-Western outfit based on salwar kameez, worn byBhavana Balsavar, and traditional sari and choli, worn by Shubha
Khote. (2012)

In India, women's clothing varies widely and is closely associated with the local
culture, religion and climate.
Traditional Indian clothing for women in the north and east are saris worn with choli tops; a
long skirt called a lehenga or pavada worn with choli and a dupatta scarf to create an
ensemble called a gagra choli; or salwar kameez suits, while many south Indian women
traditionally wear sari and children wear pattu langa.
Saris made out of silk are
considered the most elegant. Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, is one of India's fashion
capitals.
In many rural parts of India, traditional clothing is worn. Women wear a sari,
a long sheet of colourful cloth, draped over a simple or fancy blouse. Little girls wear
a pavada. Both are often patterned. Bindi is a part of women's make-up.
Indowestern clothing is the fusion of Western and Subcontinentalfashion. Other clothing
includes the churidar, gamucha, kurti and kurta, and sherwani.
[citation needed]

[citation needed]

[citation needed]

The traditional style of clothing in India varies with male or female distinctions. This is still
followed in the rural areas, though is changing in the urban areas. Girls before puberty
wear a long skirt (called langa/paawada in Andhra) and a short blouse, called a choli,
above it.

Traditional clothing[edit]

Purple silk sari worn byVidya Balan.

Sari and wrapped garments[edit]

Main article: Sari

A saree or sari
is a female garment in the Indian subcontinent. A sari is a strip of
unstitched cloth, ranging from four to nine meters in length, that is draped over the body in
various styles. These include: Sambalpuri Sareefrom East, Mysore silk and Ilkal of
Karnataka and, Kanchipuram of Tamil Nadu from South, Paithani from West
and Banarasi from North among others. The most common style is for the sari to be
wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff.
The sari is usually worn over a petticoat. Blouse may be "backless" or of a halter neck
style. These are usually more dressy with a lot of embellishments such as mirrors or
embroidery and may be worn on special occasions. Women in the armed forces, when
wearing a sari uniform, don a half-sleeve shirt tucked in at the waist. Teenage girls wear
half-sarees, a three piece set consisting of a langa, a choli and a stole wrapped over it like
a saree. Women usually wear full sarees. Indian wedding sarisare typically red, a tradition
that goes back to India's pre-modern history.
[22][23]

[24]

[25]

[24]

[26]

[27]

Saris are usually known with different names in different places. In Kerala, white saris with
golden border, are known as kavanis and are worn on special occasions. A simple white
sari, worn as a daily wear, is called a mundu. Saris are called pudavai in Tamil Nadu.
InKarnataka, saris are called Seere. The traditional production of handloom sarees is
important to economic development in rural communities.
[28]

[29]

Keralan lady wearing mundum neriyathum. Painted by Raja Ravi Varma, c.1900

Mundum Neriyathum
Main article: Mundum Neriyathum
Mundum Neriyathum is the oldest remnant of the ancient form of the saree which covered
only the lower part of the body, a traditional dress of women in Kerala, South India.
The
basic traditional piece is the mundu or lower garment which is the ancient form of the saree
denoted in Malayalam as 'Thuni' (meaning cloth), while the neriyathu forms the upper
garment the mundu.
[30][31]

[30][31]

An Assamese girl wearing mekhela sador, 2010

Mekhela Sador
Main article: Mekhela chador
Mekhela Sador (Assamese: ) is the traditional Assamese dress worn by women.
It is worn by women of all ages.
There are three main pieces of cloth that are draped around the body.
The bottom portion, draped from the waist downwards is called the Mekhela (Assamese:
). It is in the form of a sarongvery wide cylinder of cloththat is folded into pleats
to fit around the waist and tucked in. The folds are to the right, as opposed to the pleats in
the Nivi style of the saree, which are folded to the left. Strings are never used to tie the
mekhela around the waist, though an underskirt with a string is often used.
The top portion of the three-piece dress, called the Sador (Assamese: ), is a long length
of cloth that has one end tucked into the upper portion of the Mekhela and the rest draped
over and around the rest of the body. The Sador is tucked in triangular folds. A fitted blouse
is worn to cover the breasts.
The third piece is called a Riha, which is worn under the Sador. It is narrow in width. This
traditional dress of the Assamese women are very famous for their exclusive patterns on
the body and the border. Women wear them during important religious and ceremonious
occasions of marriage. Riha is worn exactly like a Sador and is used as Orni.

Four women wearing salwar kameez, Puducherry, 2006

Salwar Kameez[edit]

Main article: Salwar kameez

Salwar is a generic description of the lower garment incorporating the Punjabi salwar,
Sindhi suthan, Dogri pajamma (also called suthan) and the Kashmiri suthan.
The salwar kameez is the traditional wear of women in Punjab, Haryana and Himachal
Pradesh and is called the Punjabi suitwhich is most common in the northwestern part of
India (Punjab region). The Punjabi suit also includes the "churidaar" and "kurta" ensemble
which is also popular in Southern India where it is known as the "churidaar".
[32]

The salwar kameez has become the most popular dress for females. It consists of loose
trousers (the salwar) narrow at the ankles, topped by a tunic top (the kameez). Women
generally wear a dupatta or odani (Veil) with salwar kameez to cover their head and
shoulders. It is always worn with a scarf called a dupatta, which is used to cover the head
and drawn over the bosom.
[33]

[33]

The material for the dupatta usually depends upon that of the suit, and is generally of
cotton, georgette, silk, chiffon among others.
This dress is worn by almost every
teenage girl in lieu of western clothes. Many actresses wear the salwar kameez
in Bollywood movies.
[citation needed]

The suthan, similar to the salwar is common in Sindh where it is worn with
the cholo and Kashmir where it is worn with the Phiran. The Kashmiri phiran is similar to
the Dogri pajamma. The patiala salwar is an exaggeratedly wide version of the salwar, its
loose pleats stitched together at the bottom.
[33]

[34]

[35][36]

Purple churidar with green kurta worn by Nagma

Anakarli suit worn byBenaf Dadachandji

Churidaar
Main article: Churidar
Churidaar is a variation on the salwar, loose above the knees and tightly fitted to the calf
below. While the salwar is baggy and caught in at the ankle, the churidar fits below the
knees with horizontal gathers near the ankles. The churidaar can be worn with any upper
garment such as a long kurta, which goes below the knees, or as part of the anarkali suit.
[37]

Anarkali Suit
Main article: Anarkali Salwar Suit
The anarkali suit is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a slim fitted bottom.The
anarkali is an extremely desirable style that is adorned by women located in Northern India,
Pakistan and The Middle East. The anarkali suit varies in many different lengths and
embroideries including floor length anarkali styles. Many women will also opt for heavier
embroidered anarkali suits on wedding functions and events. Indian women wear anarkali
suits on various other occasions as well such as traditional festivals,casual lunch,
anniversary celebrations etc. The kameez of the anarkali can be sleevelesss or with
sleeves ranging from cap- to wrist-length.
[38]

White and gold lehenga and red choli worn by actressZoa Morani, 2012.

Lehenga Choli (skirt and blouse)[edit]

Main article: Ghagra choli

A Ghagra Choli or a Lehenga Choli is the traditional clothing of women

in Rajasthan and Gujarat.
Punjabis also wear them and they are used in some of
their folk dances. It is a combination of lehenga, a tight choli and an odhani. A lehenga is a
form of a long skirt which is pleated. It is usually embroidered or has a thick border at the
bottom. A choli is a blouse shell garment, which is cut to fit to the body and has short
sleeves and a low neck.
[citation needed]

Different styles of ghagra cholis are worn by the women, ranging from a simple cotton
lehenga choli as a daily wear, a traditional ghagra with mirrors embellished usually worn
during navratri for the garba dance or a fully embroidered lehenga worn during marriage
ceremonies by the bride.
Popular among unmarried women other than salwar kameez are Gagra choli and Langa
voni.
[39]

Pattu Pavadai/Reshme Langa

Main article: Pattu pavadai
Pattu Pavadai or Langa davani is a traditional dress in south India and Rajasthan, usually
worn by teenage and small girls. The pavada is a cone-shaped skirt, usually of silk, that
hangs down from the waist to the toes. It normally has a golden border at the bottom.
Girls in south India often wear pattu pavadai or Langa davani during traditional functions.
Girls in Rajasthan wears this dress before marriage (and after marriage with sight
modification in certain section of society. )
Langa - Voni/Dhavani
This is a type of South Indian dress mainly worn in Karnataka,Andhra Pradesh and Tamil
Nadu also in some parts of Kerala . This dress is a 3-piece garment where the langa or
lehanga is the cone shaped long flowing skirt.