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w it h
C la ss ic P a tt e rn
C h il d re n ’s C lo s fo r
th e s a n d A c c e
ss o ri e s
F io n a B e ll
Button-Through Dress
This is a great “everyday” dress, as it can be worn over jeans
even a print that contrasts with the main print of the dress.
Materials
Paper for pattern
Plain chambray for yoke and
button plackets
Printed cotton voile for main
body of dress
6 buttons
1 in (2.5 cm) wide broidery STEP 1
anglaise trim Making up the yoke
Basting thread With right sides together, match the notches at the shoulders and pin the
Matching sewing thread front pieces to the back. Baste and then machine stitch along the shoulder
Sewing machine and sewing kit seams with a 1⁄4 in (5 mm) seam allowance. Repeat for the yoke lining. Press
the seams open, then fold and press the bottom of each yoke 1⁄4 in (5 mm)
to the wrong side. With wrong sides together, baste the yoke and lining
together around the neckline.
Pin and then baste a length of broidery anglaise trim along the bottom
edges of the front yoke pieces. Make sure the right side of the top edge of
the trim is facing the wrong side of the bottom edge of the outer front yoke.
STEP 3
Making the button plackets
Fold and press the short ends of the button plackets 1⁄4 in (5 mm) to the wrong
side. Press the strips lengthwise into thirds, but leave one edge 1⁄4 in (5 mm) wider
than the other. With the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the dress,
align the raw edge of one placket with the inside edge of one of the front panels
of the dress. Pin, baste, and then machine stitch with a 1⁄4 in (5 mm) seam allowance.
Flip the folded side of the placket to the outside of the dress, and topstitch down
both sides. Repeat on the other side of the dress.
Make six vertical buttonholes down the length of the placket on the right of
the dress, making the first 1⁄2 in (1 cm) from the top and edge, and spacing them
approximately 23⁄8 in (6 cm) apart. Sew six corresponding buttons onto the placket
on the left of the dress.
4 Playtime
STEP 4
Making and inserting the sleeves
With right sides together, pin and baste a length of broidery anglaise trim to the bottom edge
of the sleeves, then machine stitch 1⁄4 in (5 mm) from the edge. Overlock the raw edges, then
fold the seam allowance to the wrong side of the sleeve and topstitch over the fold.
In the same way as you gathered the skirt (see step 2), loosely gather the cap of each sleeve
at the shoulder. With right sides together, fit the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the shoulder
seam on the yoke with the center of the sleeve; pin, baste, and then machine stitch with 1⁄3 in
(8 mm) seams. Overlock the raw edges and then press the seam to the wrong side.
Fold and press the seam binding into thirds. From the end of the yoke, machine stitch the
seam binding onto the edge of the armhole, with right sides together. Flip the seam binding to
the wrong side of the armhole and topstitch along the inside edge of the binding and all the
way around the armhole, catching the sleeve’s overlocked seam allowance in the stitching.
STEP 5
Finishing the neckline
Fold and press the trim in half on the cross grain. Fold and
press one side of the trim 1⁄4 in (5 mm) to the inside. With the
right side of the trim to the inside of the neckline, align the
raw edge of the trim with the edge of the neckline and pin,
baste, and then machine stitch 1⁄4 in (5 mm) from the edge. Flip
the folded side of the trim to the outside of the dress, and
topstitch around the neckline.
STEP 6
Making the pockets
Fold and press the rectangular pocket piece in half lengthwise, then press the long
edges 1⁄4 in (5 mm) to the wrong side. Loosely gather the top edge of the curved
pocket piece so that the width fits into the rectangular piece. Pin and then baste a
length of broidery anglaise trim along the top of the gathered edge. Fit the top edge
between the two folded edges of the rectangular portion and topstitch along the
folded edge.
Press the 1⁄4 in (5 mm) seam allowance to the wrong side of the pocket edge and
topstitch around the sides and bottom, making sure the two pockets are placed at
the same distance from the side seams and hem.
feel, especially when the hem has been embellished with a pique-
edge trim, as shown here. This versatile skirt can also be made in
soft, lightweight twills and baby cord, both printed and plain.
Materials
Paper for pattern
Plain chambray
5
⁄8 in (15 mm) wide pique-
edge trim
1 ⁄2 in (4 cm) wide elastic
1
Basting thread
Matching sewing thread
Sewing machine and sewing kit
children’s clothing shop and label. An eclectic and unique collection of patterns
and designs, Sewn with Love showcases Fiona’s well-known work with retro
styles and prints with a distinct influence from the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s.
Twenty-five gorgeous projects, from a boy’s classic shirt and playtime dun-
garees to a girl’s pretty party dress and sweet summer pajamas, are ideal for
sewists eager to dive into classic sewing techniques with contemporary results.
Divided into four sections (babies, playtime, parties, and bedtime), each pat-
Fiona Bell opened Their Nibs, a children’s shop and label with clothes, accessories,
and homeware in 2003. Her couture sewing expertise and eye for fashion have allowed
Fiona to bring her range of gorgeous clothes to online retailers and various stores and
boutiques around the world, including Mothercare, John Lewis, Harrods, Bon Marche,
and Avoca. Fiona lives in London, England.
Paperback with flaps and CD with full-size patterns, 9¼ x 9¾, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-1-59668-349-5, $26.95, Available October 2010