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Whats the problem? At the base of the model, one or more corners lift up so they
are no more level with the print platform. This can also result in horizontal cracks in
upper parts.
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Use a heated print bed to keep the plastic at a temperature just below the
point where it gets solid this is called the glass transition temperature.
This way, the first layer stays flat on the print bed.
2.
Increase adhesion of the first layer to the print bed by spreading a tiny film
of glue evenly on the bed.
3.
4.
Even if your printer has a heated bed, we recommend you use glue and level the
bed.
Image source: Rudor on Flickr
Whats the problem? The base of the model (i.e., the first layers) is wider than
wanted.
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Whats the cause? To avoid warping, users often increase first layer squish. This
may result in the base bulging out thats why this effect is called elephant foot.
This ungainly effect can also be caused by the weight of the rest of the model
pressing down the first layers, when the lower layers havent had time to get solid
in particularly, when your printer has a heated bed.
What to do about it? In 3D printing troubleshooting guides, this is probably the
most-discussed 3D printing problem. Its not easy to find the right balance between
getting rid of warping and avoiding the elephant foot effect. To minimize bulges at
the base of your model we recommend levelling the printer bed and moving the
nozzle a little further away from the bed (but not too far, otherwise the print will not
stick); additionally, lower the bed temperature slightly.
If you create the 3D model yourself, put a small chamfer at the bottom of the model.
Start with a 5mm and 45 chamfer and experiment to get the best result.
Image source: Walter Gordy at Flickr
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Right: Uneven first layer; left: warping because of the small footprint.
2.
3.
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and malleable longer than the plastic layers above the height. This way it may
yield under the weight of the upper layers and cave in.
What to do about it? Heres 3D printing troubleshooting 101: Reduce bed heat! In
some printers, the default bed temperature is 75C, the recommended temperature
for PLA, however is 50-60C. Additionally, set the fan in the printer to fully blow at
the lowest height.
When printing small models, we recommend you print two copies or two differenct
objects. This way the print head will take more time to print one layer after the
other.
When printing models with a large footprint, do not reduce bed temperature
otherwise the edges may warp.
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Turn the printer off and check whether you can move the head easily along
the rods with your hands. If the head moves stiffly or it moves more easily in
one direction, apply a drop of sewing machine oil to the rod (or the rod along
the head moves more stiffly).
2.
To see, if the rods are correctly aligned: Moving the head to the left and the
right side of the printer and check that the distance between the sliding
blocks and the pulleys are equal on both sides. Repeat this for the
front/back of the printer. If you notice misalignment, loosen the screws on
the two pulleys of the rod in question. Nudge the sliding block a bit until the
rod is aligned again, then tighten the screws. Repeat for the other rod.
3.
Check to see if the screws that hold the pulleys in place are tight. If
necessary, tighten them.
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Whats the problem? Some layers in the middle of the objects have shifted.
Whats the cause?
The printer belts are not well tightened.
The top plate is not fastened and wobbles around independent of the
bottom plate.
One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly straight.
What to do about it?
This is our 3D printing troubleshooting suggestion:
1.
2.
3.
Check the Z axis rods and replace those that are not 100% straight.
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part or completely).
Whats the cause?
For some reasons the printer failed to provide the amount of plastic
required for printing the skipped layers. This is called (temporary)
underextrusion. There may have been a problem with the filament (e.g. the
diameter varies), the filament spool, the feeder wheel or a clogged nozzle.
Friction caused the bed to temporarily get stuck. The cause: The vertical
rods are not perfectly aligned with the linear bearings.
There is a problem with one of the Z axis rods or bearings: The rod could
be distorted, dirty or had been oiled excessively.
What to do about it?
1.
Check the rods and bearing for problems and fix them. If there is too much
oil, for example, remove it.
2.
3.
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Whats the problem? The top surface shows bumps or even holes.
Whats the cause?
The typical cause for this 3D printing problem is improper cooling.
The top surface is not thick enough.
What to do about it?
1.
Set the cooling fans to top speed when the top surfaces are printed.
2.
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Whats the problem? There are unwanted thin strings of plastic between parts of
the model.
Whats the cause? When the print head moved over an open part (so-called travel
move), some filament dripped from the nozzle.
What to do about it? Most printers have a feature called retraction. When
retraction has been enabled, the printer retracts the filament in the nozzle before
travel moves. This way, no surplus plastic can drip from the nozzle and produce
strings. So: Make sure you enable retraction in the slicing software for your printer.
One of the easier 3D printing problems.
Image source: Ultimaker
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The diameter of the filament used does not match the diameter set in the
slicing software.
The amount of material that is extruded is too low because of faulty slicer
software settings.
The flow of the material through the extruder is restricted by dirt in the
nozzle.
What to do about it?
In Simplify3D, you set the filament diameter in the Edit Process Settings dialog.
1.
Check the filament diameter and the diameter setting in the slicing software
correct the software setting, if necessary. The filament diameter is printed
on the spool or on the package: if not, measure it using calipers.
2.
3.
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Check to see if there is a partial blockage in the nozzle and remove it.
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A Flow setting way over 100% in Cura may result in overextrusion; the Flow setting (right) is only visible when you
check the Flow option in the Preferences (left).
Whats the problem? Overextrusion means that the printer supplies more material
than needed. This results in excess material on the outside of the model printed.
Whats the cause? Typically, the Extrusion multiplier or Flow setting in your
slicing software is too high (see the section above)
What to do about it? Correct the Extrusion multiplier or Flow setting in your
printers software.
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The first corrective measure when you notice holes or gaps in the top
surface: Increase the number of solid top layers in the slicing software.
There should be at least 0.5mm of solid layers (how many layers that means
depends on the layer height). The additional solid top layers do not add
height to your printed model. When you increase the number from 3 to 5, for
example, the last 5 layers are printed solid (instead of 3).
In Simplify3D, you increase the number of solid layers on the Layer tab in
the Edit Process Settings dialog. In Cura, use the Shell Thickness setting
on the Quality tab to increase the solid top layers (plus the solid bottom
layers and the outside walls).
2.
When the hollow gaps in the model are too wide, because the infill
percentage is only say 10 or 20% the solid layers may sag. If adding
more solid top layers does not correct the problem, increase the infill
percentage in the slicing software. This will increase the filament
consumption.
In Simplify3D, the infill options are found on the Infill tab in the Edit
Process Settings dialog. In Cura, youll find the Infill Density setting on the
Infill tab.
3.
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In Cura, you can increase the thickness of outer walls and the top and bottom layers.
1.
2.
Reduce the height of the very first layer depending on your printer and the
filament used, you may go down to 0.1mm (this, however, requires that the
printbed is absolutely level).
See All3DPs guide on how to get better results in 3D printing to learn how to level
the printbed and adjust the gap between the nozzle and the printbed.
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What looks like scratches is in fact oozing of the filament when the printhead travelled over the piece.
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For the example above the, the Retraction Vertical Lift value in Simplify3D was too low.
1.
To avoid scratches and reduce oozing: Increase the vertical lift (or Z-hop)
setting for your printer. This setting controls how far the nozzle is lifted up
above the last layer printed when travelling (without printing). In Simplify3D,
you change this setting on Extruder tab of the Edit Process Settings
dialog; make sure the Retraction option is enabled and increase the
Retraction Vertical Lift setting. In Cura, set Enable Retraction and
Retraction Distance (in the Preferences dialog) and increase the
Retraction Distance value on the Material tab.
2.
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processes.
There is a problem with the feeder. The feeder motor may be defective, the
pressure the feeder puts on the filament is too low or the filament has
ground.
What to do about it?
1.
2.
The text of "16 Common 3D Printing Problems and Solutions" by All3DP is licensed under a Creative
Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
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