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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

R-7 PLATINUM

REAL WORLD CYCLING

THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE OPTIMIZED FOR

ENDURO FORK SEALS

RECOMMENDED PARTS
FOR SERVICING THE

R-7 PLATINUM

-Plastic bucket/drain pan


-2mm Allen wrench
-8mm Allen wrench
-Flat-bladed screwdriver
-Pocket screwdriver
-20mm 6-point socket
-11mm socket
-Ratchet wrench
-Adjustable at-jawed wrench
-Torque wrench
-Clean, lint-free rags
-5 wt. fork uid
-5w/30 synthetic motor oil
-80 wt. fully synthetic gear oil
-Super-Slick Grease or PrepM
-Red Devil Grease
-Oil syringe (or other measuring device)
-Shock pump
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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

R-7 PLATINUM

REAL WORLD CYCLING

TABLE OF CONTENTS

TOOLS REQUIRED .................................................................. 1


SLIDER/OUTER LEG ASSY, REMOVAL ............................ 3-7
AIR SPRING LEG DIS-ASSEMBLY ....................................... 8-11
AIR SPRING LEG RE-ASSEMBLY ....................................... 12-14
DAMPER LEG DIS-ASSEMBLY ........................................... 15-16
DAMPER LEG RE-ASSEMBLY ........................................... 17-19
SEAL REMOVAL ...................................................................... 20
ENDURO FORK SEALS INSTALLATION ....................... 21-22
SLIDER/OUTER LEG ASSY, RE-INSTALLATION ........... 23-26
SUSPENSION/DAMPING FLUID ......................................... 18-19
AIR PISTON LUBRICATION .................................................... 14
NEGATIVE COIL SPRING ..................................................... 8-9, 13
AIR PISTON .......................................................................... 11-12, 14
SNAP VALVE SPV ...............................................................16-17

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

R-7 PLATINUM

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1) Remove the red SPV Air Cap


from the right side of the crown.
(Right side of the fork from riders view)

2) Use a small screw driver to relieve


the air pressure from the SPV chamber.
NOTE: A small amount of oil may mist out
with the air, so watch your eyes!

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

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3) Turn the rebound adjusting knob to halfway


between both extremes.
The knob is located at the bottom Right side of the fork
from the riders view. Centering the knob helps to avoid
putting pressure on the rebound adjusting components while
removing the retaining screw.

4) Use a 2mm Allen wrench to


remove the retaining screw.
Hold the knob to keep it from rotating
while tightening the screw.

5) Pull the rebound knob straight down


to remove it from the damper assembly.

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

R-7 PLATINUM

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6) Use an 8mm Allen wrench to


turn the damper rod Clockwise up
into the fork leg. Be prepared for
oil at this point...

7) Once the threads have cleared


the leg casting, use the Allen
wrench to compress the rod up
into the leg and move over to the
left fork leg while allowing the
semi-bath oil to drain.

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

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8) Use an 11mm socket or


wrench to loosen the retaining
bolt at the bottom of the left leg
(riders perspective).
NOTE: This is a standard bolt that is removed by turning in a Counter-Clockwise
direction.

Once the bolt is broken loose,


you can remove it by hand, but
be prepared for oil....

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

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R-7 PLATINUM

9) Remove the air cap


at the top of the left leg
and release the air pressure. Be prepared for a
small amount of oil to
discharge with the air.

10) Pull the outer leg assembly off. (Also known


as the slider or lowers)

NOTE: If you do not wish to inspect or service the internals of the spring leg, you may skip Steps 11-20 and proceed directly to Step 21.

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

R-7 PLATINUM

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11) Using a good-quality adjustable wrench or at-jawed


pliers, carefully loosen the
end cap at the bottom of the
spring leg.
Finish unwinding the end cap
by hand and remove the negative spring/push rod assembly.

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Pictured at right is the negative spring/push rod


assembly. The R-7 is classied as an All Air
Spring because the positive spring does not use
an auxiliary coil spring for the initial travel and
sag adjustment, as did the Skareb line of forks.
The spring on this assembly is a negative spring,
causing the lower rod to be retracted up into the
stanchion tube until the air chamber is sufciently pressurized.
The spring pictured below is the stock spring for
the R-7 Platinum, and is Titanium. The negative
springs on the Super and Elite models are steel.
The Titanium spring
weighed 0.5 Ounces, or 15
Grams on our scale.
There are no ride kits
available for the R-7 forks.
Manitou says that one negative spring rate is suitable
for all riders.

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12) Use a 20mm socket to remove the air top cap.

13) There is a small amount of


oil on top of the air piston that
must be poured out at this time.

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14) Remove the Air Piston.


The easiest way to remove the
air piston is to use a rod or long
wooden dowel to push the air piston down and out of the bottom
of the leg.

If the air piston seems stuck in


place, a slight tap on the rod will
get it moving and you will be
able to push it out the bottom of
the leg.
Clean the air piston and inspect
the seal rings for damage.
Inspect the inside of the leg for
debris or scratches.

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

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15) Grease the seal rings of the


Air Piston and start it into the top
of the leg.
The large cup faces up.

16) Wiggle the piston from side


to side while applying downward
pressure with your thumb until
the piston clears the threads.

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17) Lubricate the top portion of


the negative spring with a heavy
grease such as Rock n Roll Red
Devil. Because the semi-bath
oil can get into the fork leg and
mix with the gease, apply the
grease sparingly on the lower
portion of the spring.

18) Re-insert the pushrod assembly into the


fork leg from the bottom and tighten the end
cap.

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

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19) Put approximately 3cc of oil


on top of the air piston.
NOTE: The purpose of this oil is to lubricate the air piston and maintain an air
seal. Manitou usually recommends 40wt
or greater automotive oil. Our personal
preference is 80wt synthetic gear oil (although a lighter grade is probably ne).

20) Lube the threads and O-ring of the


top cap, thread in by hand, and torque
to approximately 30 Inch Pounds.
Now, on to the damping leg.....

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NOTE: If you do not wish to inspect or service the internals of the damper leg, you may skip Steps 21-34 and proceed directly to Step 35.
21) Remove the SPV air valve cap and
releive any remaining air.

22) Remove the top cap using a 20mm socket.

23) Drain out the old damping oil into an appropriate


container.

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24) Using at-jawed pliers or an


adjustable wrench, loosen the end
cap.
Take your time and be careful not to damage the plastic wrench ats.

25) Remove the Snap Valve SPV


Assembly.

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26) Verify proper movement and spring-back


of the gold piston.

27) Use Super-Slick Grease or other suspension grease to lube the threads at the bottom of the
stanchion tube and the blue Teon seal.
On this particular fork, getting the SPV piston past the threads was not
very difcult. Once the piston was started into the leg (as picured at the
right), rotating the other end of the rod in a small circle while lightly
prushing in on it caused the piston to slide easily past the threads.

28) Tighten the end cap.

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29) In stages, pour about


125cc of 5wt damping oil
into the top of the SPV
leg. Slowly pump the
damping rod as you add
the oil.

30) Verify the correct


suspension uid height.
(Factory recommendations on page 19)

A simple method for setting the


oil height is to use an oil syringe
and a piece of plastic tubing.
For example, if you were setting
the oil height to 100mm, you
would measure from the bottom
of the syringe body out 100mm
onto the plastic tubing. Mark
and cut the tubing.
Insert the syringe and tubing into the fork leg until the syringe body
is resting against the crown. Remove it and look for uid on the
end of the tubing. If the tubing did not contact uid, add uid until
it is higher than the end of the tube. Re-insert the syringe with the
plunger fully compressed into the syringe body. Holding the syringe
against the crown, pull the plunger up, removing the excess oil until
only air is being pulled into the syringe. You are now at whatever
level you chose to cut the tubing at.
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Factory Recommendations for R-SEVEN Oil Levels:

Snap-Valve SPV 80-100mm travel ............................ 108-123mm*


TPC / Lockout (crown mounted) 80-100mm travel ..... 110-125mm*
FFD (Fluid Flow Damping) 80-100mm travel ............. 110-125mm*
Remote Lockout 80-100mm travel .............................. 104-119mm*
Platform + Damping, 80-100mm travel ....................... 73-88mm*

*Measured from the top of the crown where the top cap screws in, to the surface of the oil,
with the damper rod fully extended.

31) Lubricate the O-ring and threads of the top cap.

32) Tighten the SPV


top cap to 30 Inch
Pounds.

33) Pressurize the SPV chamber to 40 PSI.

34) Install the red SPV valve cap.

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35) Remove the old wiper/seals by inserting a at-bladed screwdriver under the back end of the wiper/seal and applying downward pressure on the
screwdriver handle until the wiper/seal pops up and out.
Note that the shaft of the screwdriver is
wrapped in tape to protect the nish of
the fork.

The foam rings found


under the wiper/seal will
not be re-used. They will
be replaced with a special
inner oil seal.

36) If the lowers are particularly dirty, its time to


move to the sink and use some biodegradable degreaser.
37) Chase the degreaser with a
mixture of hot water and dish soap
and a little brushing, if needed.
RINSE well with hot water.
38) Thoroughly
dry the lower
legs.

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39) Lubricate the inside of the seal head (pictured on the left) and the outer edge of the oil
seal with Super-Slick Grease.

The side with the letters


and numbers faces UP, or
AWAY from the oil.

The side with the groove


and garter spring faces
DOWN, or TOWARD
the oil.

40) Start the seal into the lower leg and use
your thumbs to press it down evenly until ush
with the top edge of the lower leg.
41) Use a large inverted socket and
extention to carefully seat the inner
oil seals in each leg.

40

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42) Install the Enduro Wipers:


a) Apply a thin coating of grease to the insertion area of the Eduro
Wiper.
b) Start the wiper into the insertion area of the lower leg. It should
not be difcult to start, as the leading edge is slightly tapered.

c) If the wiper goes in easily


enough, you may seat it by
hand.

d) If you are unable to seat the wiper by


hand, use a piece of 1-1/4 PVC pipe to
press the wipers in until no gap can be seen
below the wiper lip.

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43) Check the O-ring at the bottom of the


damper rod.
If this O-ring has been damaged, it will result in oil leaking at
the bottom of the fork leg. The clear factory O-ring can be replaced with a standard rubber O-ring from the hardware store
(take it in and match it up).
Lubricate the O-ring and threads at the bottom of the damper
rod.

44) Lubricate the inside of the


new seals and wipers with SuperSlick Grease.

DAMPER ROD

45) Before re-installing the


lowers, verify that the hardware is correctly congured
on the rods....

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COMPRESSION
ROD

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PICTORIAL SERVICE MANUAL

R-7 PLATINUM

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46) Start the lowers over the rods


and up to the stanchion tubes. Be
sure the reverse arch is facing the
right way.

47) Carefully work one wiper over its respective


end cap and just barely onto the stanchion; then
work the other wiper on to its stanchion.
When both sides are started, slide the lowers about halfway
down (dont let the stanchions enter the lower bushings yet).

48) Inject16-20cc of semi-bath


oil into each lower leg.
Angle the bottom of the fork upwards and
use an oil syringe. Manitou recommends
Motorex Semi-Bath 5/40w synthetic oil.
Other brands of fully synthetic multi-viscosity oils are acceptable.

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49) Put about 90 PSI into the air spring


chamber to fully extend the rod.
(It requires this much pressure to overcome the negative spring)

50) Cover the lower casting


holes with a clean towel (to
prevent oil from being ejected)
and push the lower assembly all the way onto the stanchions.

51) Insert and tighten the Compression


Rod Fixing Bolt.

Inspect the O-ring and replace it if torn or distorted. Lubricate the O-ring and threads with Super-Slick Grease.
Recommended torque: 20 Inch Pounds.

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52) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to wind


the Rebound Damper Rod back into the
lower leg casting.
If the damper rod is out of reach, you can relieve air
pressure from the spring side and push the lowers
further up the stanchions.

Remember to turn the Allen wrench


counter-clockwise to tighten.
Recommended torque is 10-30 Inch
Pounds.

53) Insert the Rebound Knob


and tighten the set screw, using a
2mm Allen wrench.
Hold the knob to keep it from rotating
while tightening the screw.

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PROPER CARE OF YOUR

ENDURO FORK SEALS


Even in relatively clean and dry
conditions, you will nd that the
stanchions and top edges of the
wipers get dirty.
Use a soft, clean cloth to carefully
clean the stanchion tubes and wipers.
Drizzle some Stanchion Lube onto
the clean stanchion tubes and allow
it so settle on the tops of the wipers.

Stanchion Lube
by Finish Line

Compress the fork a few times.


Using a soft cloth work the excess Stanchion Lube into the
upper legs.
Before each ride, rotate your
bike backwards over the rear
wheel, allowing the oil to prelube the stanchion/bushing
interface and inner oil seal.
This will extend the life of your
seals and bushings.

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