Quality Control in Garments Production

INTRODUCTION

Quality is defined as the level of acceptance of a good or service. It is a very

essential requirement for any kind of product. Every product should maintain the
standard quality level. In this 21st century of globalization market are becoming
more and more complex, thats why every industry are facing a high level of
competition for their business. So the product must fulfill the customer requirement.
For this reason every product should maintain the quality level. For the textile
industry and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality
standard of fiber, yarn. Fabric construction , color fastness, design and the final
finished garment. Nowadays buyers are very much quality conscious. If it is possible
to maintain a high Quality system of inspection policy, the buyers shall be
motivated and more quality products can be made.The fitness for use concept can
be applied to garment. For a garments to be fit for use provided its style
acceptable.1. It must be free from defects such as stain, material defects, open
seam, loose hanging thread, misaligned buttons and button holes, defective zipper
etc.2. Must fit properly for the labeled size.3. It must perform satisfactorily in normal
use, meaning that a garment must be abler to withstand normal laundering / dry
cleaning / pressing cycle without color loss or shrinkage, seams must not come
apart, fabric must not tear and so on.But maintaining an adequate standard of
quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential
customer for a new product really wants, through the processes of design,
specification, controlled manufacture.

Quality Control

Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and

expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor
to produce work of good quality.The systems required for programming and
coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the
requisite quality. As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance
or Total Quality Control.

Objectives

To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the
first time. To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to

the level of choice in design, styles, colors, suitability of components and fitness of
product for the market.Satisfactory quality can only be ensured through:

1. Knowing the customer need.

2. Designing to meet them.

3. Faultless construction.

4. Certified performance and safety.

5. clear instruction manual

6. suitable packaging

Satisfaction quality can be ensured from the customers point of view by providing:

1. Right product.

2. Right quality.

3. Right time.

4. Undamaged condition.

To ensure the quality level of a garment we need to observe some specific sector

1- Fault free fabric.

2- Shade matching of the garments.

3- Making the pattern as per buyer requirement.

4- All the different parts of the garment should have the perfect size.

5- Good stitching, seam formation should be perfect.

6- Additional accessories such as button, zipper, tag, level is in right position.

7- Packing and packaging.

Quality section:

Quality control in garments production are operated in the different sector 1.

Cutting section2. Sewing Section. 3. Washing Section.4. Finishing Section.

Quality control stuffing:

Cutting Department Quality Stuff:

1- Q.C general manager.

2-Q.C Manager

3-Q.C Officer

4- Q.C. In Charge

5- Quality Controller

6- Line Q.C.

Sewing Department Quality Stuff:

1- Q.C general manager.

2-Q.C Manager

3-Q.C Officer

4- Q.C. In Charge

5- Quality Controller

6- Line Q.C.

7- Process Q.C.

Finishing Department Quality Stuff:

1- Q.C. In Charge

2- Quality Controller

3- Quality Supervisor

4- 2 Hrs Audit

5- Pre Final Q.C.

7- Measurement Q.C.

8- Iron Q.C.
Q.M

...
Cutting quality control
Sewing quality controlFinishing quality
Store Q.ITrims and accessories inspection

Fabric relaxation and shade band Q.IQuality supervisorQuality supervisor

Shrinkage and GSM test Q.I

After iron inspection Q.I

Fabric inspection SR Q.I

Line Q.C

Spreading quality controlMeasurement check Q.IProcess Q.I

Final getup inspection Q.I

Marker checking Q.IProcess Q.I
After cutting O.I

Hangtag & Barcode inspection Q.IProcess Q.I

Bundle inspection ram dam Q.ITwo hours audit

Ratio & size inspection Q.I

Output final inspection Q.I in side/Top sidePre-final

Cut fabric panel check

Different section of quality checking and its team

Different section of quality checking:

Quality checking is done by different section followed by a sequence to ensure the

production of 100% good quality product. Step by step quality checking is done to
identify every defect and each section whose identify the defects take action to
solve the problem. The fabric inspection is done primarily. Then the fabric goes to
the cutting section, in the cutting section quality checking is done by every part of
the processing, the identified problem solve there. As the same process the sewing
section, washing and finishing section do their work. As a result the good quality
product can be produced which helps to fulfill the buyers requirement
The various Steps of Garments manufacturing where in-process inspection and
quality control are done are mentioned below-

1. Fabric inspection.

2. Inspection in fabric cutting section

3. Inspection in sewing section

4. Inspection of washing section

5. Inspection in pressing & finishing section.

Activities to be done by Quality team:

Inspection of Fabric and Accessories:

To fabric which will be used to make the garments, matching with the approved
swatch card.
To inspect fabric and accessories before start the processing

Fabric Test:

The following tests are carried on based on 4 point system. There are used a glass
table. The fabric laid on the table and under the glass a light used to checking
clearly.

Shade matching.
Different types of spot checking.
Side-Centre-Side shade check.
End-End shade check.
Shrinkage Test.

Spreading Quality Control:

100% fabric lay spreading should be based on 4 points on a wooden table.

Cutting quality control:

Block check- taking 7 blocks of different size of any one cutting.Bundle check- 100%
check of cutting no, bundle no, and size serial etc.Panel check 100% of cutting
table inspection.

After cutting Quality Report:

Sl.no Buyer Styler/ref.no Color Type of fabric Cut.no Cut.quantityty CheckedQty

Name of parts Size Misscut M/c plies Pattern check Top/In maintain Defect Qty
Defect Rate01 suns burry 403 Purple Pique 42 1260 126 Back XXL 1 OK OK OK 3
2.38%02 suns burry 403 Purple Pique 42 1260 126 Front L Not found OK OK OK 2
1.59%03 suns burry 403 Purple Pique 42 1260 126 Sleeve M 1 OK OK OK 3 2.38%04

suns burry 403 Purple Pique 42 1260 126 Moonxl S Not found OK OK OK 1 .79%05
suns burry 403 Purple Pique 42 1260 126 Placket XL Not found OK OK OK 2 1.59%06
07 08 09 10 TTL
All defects are rectified and pass.

Stitch monitors Record:

To check the stitch counting them twice in a day, such as- after starting sewing in
the morning and after lunch break.3.2.6 In- Line Inspection:The garments check in
every line everyday.At least 20 to 30 machine operator works under the quality
inspector. He checks the garments in his line.3.2.7 Table inspection:
This is the
last part of sewing section. The table inspection is done in the final line of every
sewing line. The garments when completed sewing then it goes to the table for
inspection.

Final Inspection:

The garments check 100% at final inspection line before the product deliver.

Keep the record hourly after checking the product.

Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to pressing of the garment at
finishing room is known as initial finishing.
Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and passed for
tagging and packing.

Fabric quality inspection

Fabric inspection:

Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as the visual

examination or review of raw materials like fabric. The quality of a final garment
depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the most
outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials.
Normally, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them based on a
four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is
put into production. Normally four systems are used for inspection of finished

garments.1. 4 point system2. 10 point system3. Graniteville 78 system.4. Dallas

system.But among them 4 point system is widely used. Now a short description of 4
point inspection system is given below.

point system:

The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) pointgrading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of
apparel fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC.
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and
significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any
single defect. Defect can be in either length or width direction, the system remains
the same. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to
minor defects. In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total
rolls in the shipment and make sure to select at least one roll of each color way.
Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following: Total defect points per
100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria are generally
not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are
considered seconds. Formula:
Points/100 sq yards = Total defect
points/Total length of fabric in yard X 100/1 X 36 inch/Width of fabric in inch.
Finished Fabric Inspection Report:
When the fabric inspect, many types of fault has to check

1. Yarn fault:-Naps-Slubs.-Thick and thin place.-Dead cotton.

2. Knitting construction fault:-Loop-Oil stain.-Needle mark.-Sinker mark.-Hole.

3. Dyeing fault:-Dye spot.-Uneven.-Crease mark.-Softener spots.-Hole.-Adration
mark.
Finishing fault:

-Dirt or soil.

-Hole

knitting fabric fault and remedies:

Cause:
1. High yarn tension.
2. Less strength of yarn which breaks during loop formation.

3.Presence of mineral particle in yarn.

4.

Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.

5.

Yarn feeder not properly set.

Solution: 1. For holes problems solution use proper count of yarn.2. Yarn strength is
important.3. It should be free from all kind of foreign particle.4. The gap between
the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per the knitted loop size.
Pin hole: Very small holes appeared in the fabric.
Cause:
1. Due to break down of latch or bend.
Solution:

1. Change the needle.

2. Different drive has to maintain.

Needle broken/laddering:-

These defects occur due to broken needle. The loop does not form in the wale.
Cause:

1. High yarn tension.

2. Wrong cam setting.

3. Breakage of hook or butt. Solution:

Defective needle should be change

Needle setting should be right.
Yarn tension has to minimize.

4. Needle must be cleaned before production of any new fabric

Stain:

Stains appear as spots of grease oil or dyes of different color, in a neat & clean
finished fabric surface.
Cause:

1.

If dying machine does not clean.

2.
Grease & Oil stains from the unguarded moving machine parts like; Gears
Shafts Driving Pulleys & Trolley wheels etc.

3. Fabric place on the dirty floor after completing the process.

4. During transportation.
Solution:

1. To remove the oil mark the machine should be cleaned regularly and lubricants
use carefully.

2. The fabric should place in the clean floor.

3. Make sure that the fabric is neatly packed in or covered with Polythene sheets
while transporting or in storage.

Contaminations:

Contaminations appear in the form of foreign matter such as; dyed fibers, husk,
dead fibers etc. in the staple spun yarn or embedded in the knitted fabric structure.

Causes:

1. Presence of dead fibers & other foreign materials, such as; dyed fibers, husk &
synthetic fibers etc.

2. Dyed & other types of fibers flying from the adjacent Knitting machines cling to
the yarn being used for knitting & get embedded in the Grey Fabric.
Solution:

1. Rigid control measures in the Blow Room to prevent the mixing of foreign matters
in the Cotton mixing.

2. Segregate the Spinning & Knitting Machines, with Plastic Curtains or Mosquito
Nets, to prevent the fibers flying from the neighboring machines, from getting
embedded in the yarn / fabric. Fly yarn:
This fault occur when the
flying yarn get mixed with the yarn during knitting.Solution:
The knitting
machine have to clean regularly because the machine when process the yarn to
make fabric lot of fiber drop as wastage and this can be mixed with the fabric

Fabric Cutting Inspection

Fabric Cutting:

Fabric cutting is the preliminary section in garments industry. The fabric cut into
parts of garments here. This is most important section of garments for inspection
because the fabric spread of 60 to 70 plies on the table for cutting. If there make
any mistake for measurement in cutting it can cause a serious damage for many
garments product. So it required skilled operator and high level of inspection.

Process Sequence of Fabric Cutting Section:

1. Fabric spreading: 60 to 70 plies of fabric spread on the cutting table. The fabric
spread is very important. All the fabric measurement is kept same for from one
edge to another edge. Tension of all plies will be same. Marking process:
2. Marking process: This is the second step of cutting section. The pattern parts
place on the fabric plies and draws according to pattern measurement. Marking is
done compactly for possible amount of fabric can save from wastage.

3. Fabric Cutting: After making is done the cutting process begin. High speed
cutting machine cut the fabric plies by the operator. The operator should be skilled
for this process because the fabric has to cut by exact marking measurement.
4. Numbering: When the fabric cut into parts has finished all the parts numbered by
the sticker. This is done for all the parts of a garments can assembled by the same
fabric. So it can minimize the risk of shade variation.
5. Bundling: after numbering the parts has to bundled and sent to the sewing
section
Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card
maintain.
1. Program No
5. Roll No

2. Cutting No

3. Size No

4. Pies

Quality Control in fabric spreading & cutting:

1. Fabric spreading according to correct alignment with marker length and width 2.
Maintain requirements of spreading 3. Lay contains correct number of fabric ply 4.
Correct Ply direction
7. Tension control
1. The dimension of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate 2.
Cut edge should be smooth and clean
3. Avoid blade deflection
4. Maintain cutting angle
5.4. Fault occurs in cutting section and its remedies:
5.4.1. Misalignment of plies: Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut
with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread.
Cause:
1. Different plies spread too tight or too loose.2. All the plies do not
spread from the edge at same measurements.
Solution:
1. All fabric should spread at same tension.2. Measurement should be equal at all
measurement for the edge.

Less marker efficiency: less marker efficiency cause of increasing wastage and
result a wrong cutting.

Solution:

Check the marker is placed on the spread with the edge parallel to the selvage of
the goods. It must ensure that no plies is creased, damage, or have overlapped
parts. It must be ensured that possible amount of wastage can reduce.
Incorrect tension of plies: Improper tension during spreading can spoil the right
measurements of the cutting parts
Solution: 1. Check the tension during spreading. It is very important for knit fabric.

Wrong cutting: This occur due to

1. Careless cutting operator

2. Deflection of blade.

3. Unsharpened blade.

4. Roller jams during cutting

Solution: 1. Blade should be sharpened.2. Regular checking of cutting machine 3.

Should be careful when cutting.
5.4.5 Numbering mistake:
The cutting parts
numbered by the sticker to assemble the garments from same fabric. If operator
misses any parts to number all the parts after from there will be wrong numbered.
Cause:

Lack of concentration by the operator during numbering.

Solution:
The operator has to be alert when he numbered the parts that no
parts cannot be missed from numbering.
Sewing Quality Inspection
Sewing section:

After finishing the cutting process the cutting parts come here for sewing. It is
mainly an assembly section in the garments factory. Different parts of the garments
joined together here and attach other accessories like button, zipper make a
complete product.
6.2. Quality Control in Sewing Section:
1. Input material checking
2. Accessories checking 3. Machine is in well

condition 4. Thread count check 6. Needle size checking 7. Stitching fault should
be checked 8. Garments measurement check 9. Seam fault check
10. Size
mistake check
12. Shade variation within the cloth 13. Wrong placement of
interlining 14. Creased or wrinkle appearance control
Defects occur in sewing section and remedies:

Skipped stitch:

Some place in the stitch line where the stitch does not formed :

Cause:
1. Failure of needle to enter loop at correct time2. Needle deflection or bent
needle3. Thread loop failure due to incorrect needle size for thread size4. Incorrect
sewing tension in the needle5. Thread loop failure due to incorrect setting of thread
control mechanism6. Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot control
Solution:
1. The sewing tension in the needle should be proper.

2. Perfect needle size for thread size

Needle breakage defect:

Scratch on the sewing product by the needle tip when several stitches are
performed and needle is broken during sewing
Cause:

1. Excessive tension in needle thread

2. Excessive needle heat, groove or eye blocked with melted fabric

3. Thread fraying at needle

4. Thread trapped at thread guide

5. Thread trapping at the base of cone

Solution:

1. The needle has to change immediately. If the scratch on the garments is very big
or deep the product should be rejected.

2. Use stronger thread or adjust tension.

3. Reduce Increase thread guides and reduce disc tension

4. The overhead guide should be directly above cone or the thread package. Also
ensure that thread package shouldnt get tilted during off winding.
Uneven (sleeve, armhole): sleeve or armhole edge fold has a measurement. Uneven
means when the measurement is not same in all place. This occur due to careless
operating by sewing operator
Solution: the uneven place seam has to open and again stitch with right
measurement.
Main level not in centre point:

1. Buyer gives instruction where to place the main level. If it is placing in the wrong
area this is a fault.
Solution: 1. Main level has to attach in the right place.

Oil mark in garments:

Oil mark occur from the sewing machine lubricants and spot is appeared on the
garments
Cause:
During the sewing operation oil can accidentally slick out from the
machine and drop on the fabric and spotted.
Solution:

Spot lifter chemical use to remove the oil the mark of the garments. At first the spot
lifting chemical spray on the garments spot then air blown by the machine. The spot
remove.

Side seam not in line:

Side seam are not at the side line. It may come forward or backward.
Cause:
If the front and back part of the garments do not cut by correct
measurement or operator make mistake of sewing the seam formation in the side
come forward or backward from the side formation.
Solution:
Cutting parts must have right measurement and oprator have to
be conscious about that. Some times it can recover by stitching again or it can be
reject.

Seam Pucker:

After sewing when the fabric is puckered in the seam area. It is the wrinkle, or
corrugation of the sewn fabric running across the seam
Cause:

1. Fabric and / or thread instability

2. Poorly controlled fabric feed

3. Extension in sewing thread

4. Incorrect tension setting

5. Structural jamming or inherent pucker

Solution:

1. Adjust feed timing and fabric control for maximum pulling of the fabric.
2. Check tension level in the thread, Sew with minimum tension possible. Always
adjust bobbin thread tension first then needle thread tension.
3. Check if the coefficient of friction of the thread with metal is high.

Shade problem:

It is the problem appeared when the two parts shade looks different in the garments
Causes:

It is also may be a problem in cutting section where this parts made numbering
mistake.
For the lack of experience or concentration of worker and if different parts are mixed
by worker.

Solution:

Shade problem parts are separate and actual parts are attached

Kacha problem:

If unexpected parts are shown by the garments from sewing area then this problem
is occurred
Causes:
For lack of experience or concentration of worker.Solution:
The unexpected part is cut out precisely.

Stitch line uneven:

Stitch line is not straight position, it is displaced from its line.
Cause:

This fault is occurred by operator.

Solution:

The stitch has to open and again sewing.

Non matching thread: Some times when sewing is done, the garments and the
sewing thread looked shade variation.

Cause:

If garments color and sewing thread does not match with color

Solution:
The sewing thread must have the same color with the garments.
To ensure that before sewing the thread must check with the garments.
Washing Quality Inspection
Washing section:

Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing
the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.
-Washing technique create new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting,
whiskering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.p
spoon zing etc. Which is also seems the best touch of garments.
-The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result
the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.
-When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
-To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and
market developments.
-Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further
shrinkage of wash garments.
-Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also
removed due to washing
7.2 Quality control in washing section:

1. Shade variation check.

2. Uneven check.

3. Maintain time schedule for each process.

4. Maintain exact temperature for each process.

Finishing Quality Inspection

Finishing section:

This is the final section of the garments industry. Various types of fault check here.
This is the important section where finally the product has to inspect and solve the
defect of the garments.
Quality Control in Finishing Section:

1. Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt, impurities

2. Shading variation check

3. Smooth and unfold in pocket

4. In secured or broken chain or button

5. Wrong fold

6. Proper shape in garment

7. Properly dried in after pressing

8. Collar closing

Fault occur in finishing section and its remedies: Ironing problem: Some ironing
problem occurred are giving bellow most 8.3.1 Shoulder up down: During ironing if
the shoulder side is not placed correctly Causes: It is also the mistake of the
worker.Remedies: Shoulder placed correctly and ironing again.
Bottom up down:

If top and bottom are not placed correctly

Causes: For the lack of experience or concentration of worker.Remedies: Bottom and

top placed correctly and ironing again.

Puckering:

Crease if brought in the fabric and ironing. Causes: For the lack of concentration of
worker if he ironing the garment on the crease area.Remedies: Remove the crease
from the fabric and ironing again.
Poor folding resulting poor appearance: Due to poor folding the garments
Appearance looks odd or not appreciating.
Solution:

The garments should fold properly according to buyers instruction.

Incorrect packing: The packing should do by following instruction from the buyer.

Solution: The product has to pack properly

Size mistake:

Different size sign are used in garment and lock pin label

Causes:

Its a mistake or lack of concentration of worker.Solution:

Place the lock pin which size are shown in the product

Barcode problem:

If the main label and hang tag barcode are not similar.

Causes: Its a mistake of worker.Solution: Same barcode of main label and hang tag
are placed.

CONCLUSION

Quality control plays a vital role in knit garments production. Nowadays buyer
requires specific quality in all major parts of the finished products. What special in
this report is that the information data and description very much objective &
practical. We have tried to complete this project work as much we can. It will help
us to maintain the quality of the garments in garments production.