Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
05
AMERICAN
LIFE
2 0 1 6
VO L . 52
I S S U E
AMERICA IS SURFING
#5
T
H
E
A L O H A
S T A T E
DEBATE
HE
N
ON B
ETWEE
D
O
S
Y
L
L
C
DI
US
SI
TE OF
A
F
PA G E
UNION
A
S H O U L D
HAWAIIAN
S U R F E R S
COMPETE FOR
THE
USA?
A R
E
OUNDTABL
58
M A D E
I
N
AMERICA
THE DREAM
AND REALITY
OF
KANOA
IGARASHI
PA G E
66
N E W A G E , O L D G LO RY. PA T R I O T
KO LO H E A N D I N O
PLEDGES
H I S A L L E G I A N C E I N S U R F C I T Y,
U S A . P H O T O : P E T E R TA R A S
F E A T U R I N G
U N R E A S O N A B LY D RY
U N R E A S O N A B LY L I G H T
PHOTO: NELLY/SPL
NF R ISING SWE LL BO A R D SH O R T
VANS.COM/BOARDSHORTS
Vans Inc. 2016
I PLEDGE
F O R E WO R D
1/2
ALLENat Young makes like the American flag and proudly hangs in Huntington. PHOTO: JIMMICANE
Ma y, 2 01 6
10
S u r f in g M a g a zin e
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F O R E WO R D
2/ 2
Last year Courtney Conlogue finished a few heats short of becoming the first American to win a world title since Kelly Slater in 2011, and the first female since Lisa Andersen in 1997. (Excluding Carissa Moore,
but thats a whole nother topic we tackle in this issue.) Is Courtney our brightest hope for a title in 2016? PHOTO: JIMMICANE
the goal? To nail photos like the one you see on this page (and the
cover). For the America Issue. Our first in two years.
The five paddle out just after 8 a.m., with six photographers
and two videographers strategically placed to capture their every
move with the red, white and blue prominently displayed in the
background. I take a seat on the cool sand next to Kolohes dad,
Dino Andino, and we spark up a conversation.
What do you think of this concept? I ask.
I love seeing American media pushing America. I really do, Dino
answers. Whats going on with competitive surfing right now,
with back-to-back Brazilian world champs and all of the talent
coming out of that country, it reminds me a little bit of Jackie
Robinson bursting onto the baseball scene back in the late 40s.
And I mean that in the best possible way. Its lighting a fire under
these American guys asses.
I think about what he means. About Jackie Robinson. About
how the comparison hes making is in respect to the hunger and
drive surfers like Adriano are using to springboard themselves to
the top. When Jackie came into the MLB he inherently wanted
it more than anyone who had ever preceded him, and when he
take a long, hard look in the mirror. Gabriel and Adrianos world
titles are having a similar effect: Theyre forcing American surfers
and everyone, really to work harder. Because as it relates
to the CT, its time to be honest: America is no longer the alpha.
Of course, the current state of American surfing shouldnt be
judged strictly by wins and losses on the WSL, and thats the
point Leo Maxam makes in America Is Surfing on Pg. 26. In it, he
writes: [In America] we are the culture makers, the trailblazers,
the benchmark for the rest of the surfing world. So pay no mind to
the make America great again doom and gloom noise from those
who would hijack American surfing and sell us exactly what we
dont need: fear, xenophobia and self-doubt. And hes right: What
America might lack in wave quality and world title contenders (at
least right now), it makes up for tenfold in opportunity.
Kolohe takes off on a chest-high right, spins a full-rotation air
reverse and rides it to shore. He sprints up the beach giving
Dino knuckles never losing stride all the way to the parking lot.
According to Dino hes trained once already this morning and hes
off to work out again right now. This is a big year for Brother,
Dino tells me. And doing well on tour is all he cares about.
I leave Dino and walk to the end of the pier. With the guys done
surfing I clip the zip ties holding the massive flags and carefully
fold each one into a 3-foot triangle. A pair of middle-aged women
greet me. One of them is wearing a white hat with the emblem
of an American flag.
That was a beautiful display, the one with the hat tells me.
We watched all morning and as US Navy vets were really happy
to see you surfers representing our flag.
And isnt this just the greatest country on earth? The other
one adds, with a warm smile.
It is, I think to myself, my arms filled with red, white and blue.
Zander Morton
2 0 1 6
I S S U E
#5
M AY
E D I TO R I A L
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TRANSITION PRODUCTIONS
When we decided to sit down with Kelly Slater, CJ
Hobgood, Brett Simpson, Kolohe Andino and Nat
Young to discuss the State (err, Fate) of the Union
for this America Issue; we enlisted the fine folks at
Transition Productions to capture the conversation
from every possible angle. The day of the shoot, over
on Oahus North Shore, they had everything all set
up location, lighting, cameras and sound, and it
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find the results of our collaboration starting on
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now. So thanks, Transition. We couldnt have done
it without you.
R e c
n s
e
c l
CREW
e e r
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the USA.
TKO
RANGE TX
STAPLE
TANNER ROZUNKO
BARGE TRUNK
Conner
ITS JUST LIKE THE PHIL COLLINS SONG. Ive been waiting for this
momentfor all my lifeOh, Lo-orrd. Minus something about Phil
witnessing a murder when he was young and then outing the guy
at a packed concertor whatever that songs about. Im talking
about the chorus. Cause Santa Barbaras 22-year-old Conner
Coffin has been waiting for this moment CT qualification for
all his lifeOh, Lord. A moment that, for hundreds of other QS
grinders, does not come easily. But after a little adapting to
some crummy Brazilian and Portuguese beachies, Conners excited
to surf the waves we all dream [tour] about. With one or two
other guys outOh, Lord. Its a little like that Phil Collins
song. Beau Flemister
Coffin
PHOTO: SHERMAN
SPEAKEASY
1 /3
SPEAKEASY
2/ 3
Now that hes qualified, Conner no longer has to feel guilty drawing perfect lines in his backyard. PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET
lately that Ive been able to practice in better surf and not feel guilty since I was a kid. Its like, you get to surf Pipeline or Cloudbreak with
about it. Really, Im just excited to surf against the guys on tour and one or two guys out?! Thats been my motivation and drive forever.
see how they approach all these good spots.
Do you feel any pressure to stay on tour after your rookie year, or do
And youve probably already competed against most guys on tour you kind of have nothing to lose at this point? Mmm, I dont really have
Back to what you said about feeling guilty surfing good waves I
never looked at it that way. Sure, back when I was on the QS and I
was at home, it was almost a disservice to surf Rincon for two days
straight, if I was going to Brazil the following week. You always had
to keep up your bad-wave game.
And why is that? Why would it feel far-fetched for you when youre
one of the best kids your age in America? You didnt just plan on
qualifying? I think I had a good year in 2013 where I came fairly close
to qualifying, but then the next year I could barely even make a heat,
so I kind of lost that mojo. Like, going into Hawaii in 2013, I saw how
it was actually attainable. But thats a pretty common problem
Would you say that a lot of the waves on tour suit your style? The first with people on the QS. You could be trying for over five years and it
three waves are potentially great, if not longer rights. And, yeah, I can be really up and down. One year youre really close and the next
love surfing those types of waves, but The Box or North Point or even you feel like youre surfing the same way but you cant make a heat.
Cloudbreak are my favorite waves in the world to surf regardless, so And you watch the other guys get their mojo and you wonder what
an opportunity to compete in them thats what Ive dreamed about youre doing wrong.
Ma y, 2 01 6
22
SPEAKEASY
3/ 3
PHOTO: SHERMAN
And how does one get their mojo back on the QS and make things guy or that guy; when the waves are good its more of a strategic
click? I think when it comes down to it, thats just the way surfing game that is really fun to play.
goes. Youre dealing with Mother Nature and elements that are
out of your control. So finding that rhythm can be really difficult
in a 30-minute heat. But at the same time that unpredictability is
what keeps us coming back for more. You can definitely lose so many
heats that it can affect your attitude and the reasons why you surf
in the first place.
Do you have a nemesis on tour that you competed with in the Primes?
No, not really. I guess I grew up competing against Keanu Asing, but
its not like we are nemeses. I guess Ive had a lot of battles with
Kolohe when we were younger, but hes definitely beat me more than
Ive beat him. [laughs]
UP
F R ON T B U RN E R
RE N T R O U L ET T E
S AIL I NG T O T H E AI RP O RT
B U MB L E DY NA S TY
H IT H E R O N T H E D M
B AL D E A GL E S
JO I N T D O G C U ST O DY
MA SS D IVO R C E E MA IL S
F R E E DO M
PLEDGING ALLEGIANCE
N O N C O N T IG U O U S STAT ES
E X IT S TR A TE GY
F E E L IN G T H E B E RN
DOWN
SA YI N G M U R I C A
B A C K U P NU T
TRUMPING
F EL LO W SHI P SE SS I O NS
P O LI TI C S A S U SU A L
LO S T I T S LU S T R E
TR U TH BE TO LD
P O LI C I NG I N STA G R A M
T HR O WI NG C U P S
SI C K F O R A M O NT H
NO T V OT I N G
GOOGLE IT
F I SC A L N EW Y EA R
Ma y, 2 01 6
24
1 /6
A M O D E R N S N A P S H O T O F S U R F I N G I N T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S
BY LEO
MAXAM
Ma y, 2 01 6
26
S u r f in g M a g a zin e
27
2 /6
Though it was by accident, the army corps of engineers created a version of Kellys wave way back in 1929 when constructing a breakwater to
protect the Santa Barbara harbor. Its not as consistent, but its every bit as perfect. Sandspit. PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET
BIGGEST OF GAME-CHANGERS.
HE MADE FANTASY A REALITY,
AND PLANTED IT IN THE HEART OF
AMERICAS AGRICULTURAL ENGINE,
Slaters roaring competitive inferno has finally cooled and the rest of the world has
pounced with a vengeance. We were foolish to be so complacent. Wed be smart to start
stocking up on Twinkies and ammunition and seal the underground bunker until the
Brazilian Cataclysm blows over. If were lucky, well be able to survive American surfings
nuclear winter and eventually scurry out from our tunnels like small mammals after
the asteroid strike and rebuild after the lizards go extinct. The universe is collapsing.
Or is it? If you ask us, American surfing is doing just fine, thank you. First off, we can
proudly claim the current world champion. Her name is Carissa Moore, she holds a US
passport and she has better style than most. In fact, shes hoisted three world title
trophies in the past five years. Thats dynasty status. And in 2015 there was a fiery,
freckled regularfoot from Huntington named Courtney Conlogue giving her a good
run all the way to Honolua.
But surfing is bigger than world titles, and the number of Americans competing on
the CT is but one myopic estimate of our countrys surfing health. When we take a
Ma y, 2 01 6
28
SUPER COMFY
3 /6
From buoyweather.com to barreled in under 24-hours. Michael Dunphy, using American technology to strike in the Caribbean . PHOTO: NICOLA LUGO
Ma y, 2 01 6
30
TO
C U LT U R E
TO
D I S C O V E R Y,
A M E R I C A N S U R F I N G K N O W- H O W
C O N T I N U E S TO R E I G N S U P R E M E .
S u r f in g M a g a zin e
31
4 /6
A scene like this. Outer Banks, North Carolina. PHOTO: MATT LUSK
MUCH
DIFFERENT
SCENE.
SURFER
OF
THE
MONTH:
PHOTO: DJ STRUNTZ
GABE MORVIL
AGE: 16
HOMETOWN: WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA
SCHOOL: SWITCHED ON SCHOOLHOUSE
SPONSORS: QUIKSILVER, SURF CITY SURF SHOP, FREAK TRACTION, ORION SURFBOARDS
When it comes to surfing in slop on the East Coast, being tall isnt generally a good thing. Its no coincidence the best from
the East Slater, the Hobgoods, the Lopezes and Benny Bourgeois are all in the sub-6-foot club. Gabe Morvil, however, is
ready to be an exception to that rule. The 16-year-old recently encountered a growth spurt that shot him skyward, but it hasnt
slowed him down a bit. In fact, he recently won three divisions Open Mens, Explorer Mens and Explorer Juniors in one
event at Carolina Beach and you better believe hes ready to tower over his competitors at Nationals this summer. From the
top of the podium, of course with two hands grasped around his first national title. Michael Ciaramella
5 /6
6 /6
And Pipeline is, and always will be, the gold standard of surfing. Balaram Stack. PHOTO: BRENT BIELMANN
C U LT U R E
MAKERS,
THE
them the best opportunity to succeed. And theres nothing more American than that.
In this way America is surfing. We are the culture makers, the trailblazers, the
benchmark for the rest of the world. And as the standard bearer, American surfing
faces some tough questions in 2016: Where do we go in the post-Slater era? Should
Hawaiian surfers finally represent the US in competition? Just who are Conner Coffin
and Kanoa Igarashi, our countrys newest additions to the CT, and are they up to
the challenge? In this issue, we explore those questions and more, and arrive at one
overarching conclusion: Theres still work to be done, but America is the one for the job.
So pay no mind to the make America great again doom-and-gloom noise from
those who would hijack US surfing and sell us exactly what we dont need: fear,
xenophobia and self-doubt. And next time you paddle out, from sea to shining sea
or a wave pool somewhere in between remember how many surfers around the
world would love to be where you are. Chin up, America. Youre already great.
Ma y, 2 01 6
36
Tatiana Weston-Webb
#GoTati
Caroline
T H R E AT
1/ 2
Marks
PHOTOS: NATE LAWRENCE
Ma y, 2 01 6
38
Donut
T H R E AT
2 /2
We bought a
hog one time
and it grew
into this huge
monster and
tried to eat
one of my little
brothers
Its not a question of if but rather, a question of
when Caroline Marks wins her first world title.
Eyeing a big future in Indonesia. PHOTO: LAWRENCE
Ma y, 2 01 6
40
photo corban
TM
@PROLITEINT
S u r fi n g M ag a z in e
42
FATE
UNI N
OF THE
KOLOHE ANDINO
CJ HOBGOOD
BRETT SIMPSON
KELLY SLATER
NAT YOUNG
SURFING
IM SWEATING.
Partly because Im sitting on an outdoor porch under a 1,000-watt strobe light on a humid evening on Oahus North
Shore, but mostly because Kelly Slater, CJ Hobgood, Kolohe Andino, Brett Simpson and Nat Young are 20 minutes
late. I wipe my forehead. Soaked.
With lights and cameras and a 12-person production team all ready to go, I frantically start texting the group.
Where are you guys?
One minute later, with my anxiety peaking, Kelly arrives. Moments later so do Nat, Kolohe, CJ and finally Brett.
Everyone exchanges pleasantries and takes their seat. I step into the background and relax.
With the Pipe Masters set to start tomorrow, in many years past wed be excitedly awaiting the potential crowning
of an American world champ (if he hadnt already been crowned before Hawaii). But times have changed. No American
is in the title race in Hawaii. CJ is retiring. Brett is falling off tour. Kelly is in the twilight of his glorious
career and only he and Nat are ranked in the top 10 on the CT (9th and 10th, respectively).
So, where do we go from here? What is next for American pro surfing? Saxon Boucher starts the
conversation. Zander Morton
tour. And there are quite a few kids his age Kelly: Dane never won it and hes getting
and younger who are on that same track seven figures [laughter].
laughter].
SURFING: DO YOU THINKTHE HIGH PAY
Force, Coolie Kids and now the Brazilian Storm. saw Freddy [Patacchia]; I never saw Andy another factor is that theres more of an
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
45
TAKE, AND YOU CAN DO WHAT YOU WANT AND HAVE A LOT OF FUN
AND MAKE A GOOD LIVING WITHOUT NECESSARILY COMPETING.
NAT YOUNG
Ma y, 201 6
46
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
47
SURFING: THAT BRINGS US TO MOTIVATION. jealous; they get motivated, whereas a lot of bad thing. I feel like insecurity can be a huge
when theyre deep in the contest, Im rooting have you seen those guys paddle for a wave? countries even see a difference between
for them.
Kelly: When you have your crew of friends,
you definitely can feed off of that. I know
with our group of friends when we traveled
together me, Shane [Dorian] and Rob
[Machado], Conan [Hayes] and Kalani [Robb]
and everybody I feel like we really fed off
each other in contests.
Brett: And thats what you see with the
Brazilians a lot more these days.
Kelly: They support each other for the most
part, but they also have a really competitive
thing amongst themselves at the same time,
like, Oh, I want to outdo this guy.
Kolohe: I think the difference is they dont get
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
49
Ma y, 201 6
50
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
51
competition. It all depends on what kind of of the pressure. And some kids know how to
CJ: So Americas got the best freesurfer. FOR AMERICANS TRYING TO GET ONTO THE
Heyooo!
Kelly: You could easily argue that Dane is the
most influential surfer in the world in the last
eight, 10 years. And his whole thing has been
based on a website, freesurf clips, making
movies and whats fun for him.
SURFING: BUT AS FAR AS SURF FANS GO,
THERES A LARGE FAN BASE THAT WANTS
TO GET HIM IN A JERSEY.
Brett: I think a lot of Americans dont like
losing. I mean, nobody likes to lose, but I knew
guys on the QS that would get a good result,
then lose twice and theyd say, Im not gonna
do the rest of the contests.
Kolohe: Theyre scared.
Brett: Its like, dude, youre gonna lose. Thats
part of it. You win a lot as an amateur. I
remember winning a lot in NSSA. Then you
get on the QS and youre just getting smoked
by Brazilians and guys you dont even know.
Its a harsh reality check.
Kelly: David Eggers is a classic case of that.
He had one of the greatest-ever amateur
careers. He turned pro and fell off the
map within a year. I think he turned pro at
16 and he was winning everything to that
point, even pro contests he was surfing
in when he was 12. And when he turned
pro, for whatever reason, all the pressure,
expectations, he just fell apart. But he
was a true contest machine, that guy. As
a kid everything was about contests and
everything in their familys life was all about
Dave going to contests, winning, and he was
gonna win everything.
Brett: You see these soccer moms and dads
America anymore? When I came out of NSSA Kelly: No, if they moved the Trestles contest to
Brett Simpson has spent the last six years on the CT and has won the US Open of
Surfing twice during that span in his Huntington Beach backyard. For Brett, the
tour, and competition, has always been it. PHOTO: JIMMICANE
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
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S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
55
Kolohe Andino: Pro surfings patriarch for patriotism. Lower Trestles. PHOTO: JIMMICANE
A
E
S ur fi n g Ma g az i n e
58
D U E T O A 6 0 - Y E A R - O L D T E C H N I C A L I T Y,
THE
IN
50TH
D
A
STATE
PROFESSIONAL
OF
AMERICA,
SURFING.
HAWAII,
BUT
IS
HAS
IT
BEEN
PERHAPS
DELINEATED
TIME
TO
AS
ITS
RETHINK
OWN
THIS
NATION
(HAW)
S E PA R AT I O N ?
BEAU FLEMISTER, SURFINGs Hawaii-born editor-atlarge, and CHAS SMITH, former SURFING editor-atlarge and author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to
Hell, sit down at a Starbucks in Carlsbad, California,
to debate:
S ur fi n g Ma g az i n e
61
theyre both haoles, or at least is more added to the American team. How, on a
One could
maybe say that
surng existed
in Hawaii
before the
United States
was even a
country.
Ma y, 201 6
62
Mason Ho, alii-bred enjoying the Sport of Kings. PHOTO: BRENT BIELMANN
B: Dont you feel, though, that if the WSL also think that after 20 titles, its gonna wear that card. I understand that its a reason to
played into being more nationalistic and off and the patriotism will fade and they will
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
63
Haole-Hawaiian, Hawaiian-Hawaiian, Hawaiian-American...who gives a shit? When it comes down to it, are we rooting for the man or his
nation? John Florence, a man adored by men of all nations,. Outer Reef, Hawaii. PHOTO: HANK
S ur fi n g Ma g az i n e
65
BRENDAN
KANOA
BUCKLEY
IGARASHI
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
67
Ma y, 201 6
68
S ur fi n g Ma g az i n e
69
Kanoa speaks three languages and has two citizenships, but he only has one
home (and no, its not the tube).
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
71
the top five guys were really powerful and everyone else was just
happy to occasionally make the quarters. Anybody can win now.
He pauses.
But I think Kanoa will get smoked in 6- to- 8- foot waves, he says.
Flaws. We all have them. Mine is limping for a week after I come
home at 6 a.m.
I talk to Kanoa about this later that day. I know that my weak
point is in bigger, heavier waves. As soon as it gets over 4 feet, Ill
feel like Im surfing really well and then Ill watch the footage and
realize that I look like a little kid. Even when its 3 feet at a place like
Margaret River, Im going to be going against guys like Jordy and
looking really weak.
He pauses.
But then you look at a guy like Adriano de Souza. He weighs less
than me and he figured it out.
He did. His trophy says so.
Figuring it out means attacking your weaknesses. Figuring it out
means treating it like a real job. Figuring it out, apparently, means
spending a few weeks in Portugal.
I GREW UP AS AN AMERICAN , SO
Ma y, 201 6
72
close friends who still live there. Plus Id be the first Japanese to ever
PHOTOS: TARAS
minute look into his adolescent life, in which we explore his surfing,
his personality and his ambitions. Its cheesy. And amazing.
But it also serves as an overdose of reality.
I still cant believe it. Its been three months and it still hasnt sunk
in. I think its only going to feel real when I get to Snapper.
Snapper will be the first CT Kanoa ever surfs in unlike a lot of
kids in his position, hes never had a wildcard.
Im used to going to CT events as a spectator and being so excited
to surf with those guys. I would always trip on how good they surf
and how focused they are. Its going to be such a weird transition to
actually be one of them. Im worried that Ill forget what Im doing
and find myself asking for Micks autograph before our heat. [laughs]
It all happened so fast.
Kanoas goal for the 2015 QS season was to finish in the top 100.
Halfway through the year, he needed a decent result at the Mr. Price
Pro in Ballito, South Africa, to keep that dream alive.
I had lost first or second round at every event before that and I
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
73
IM WORRIED
THAT ILL
FORGET WHAT
IM DOING
AND FIND
MYSELF ASKING
FOR MICKS
AUTOGRAPH
BEFORE OUR
HEAT.
went into that one with the goal of making two
heats.
He made the quarters and it gave him a boost
of confidence that changed his life. A few big
results followed and before long, he found himself
on the podium at the Mahalo Surf Eco Festival in
Itacare, Brazil, with a trophy in his hand. And just
like that, it was official.
I didnt feel the same happiness as a normal
win. I went into shock.
Since then, Ive had days when I cant stop
thinking about it. Ill find myself spending hours
watching heats from last year and imagining
myself there and I can really feel it. Then Ill have
moments when it doesnt even feel real.
In Portugal, I witnessed both.
What I saw was a kid just a kid in the midst
of a profound transition. He realized his dream,
S ur fi n g M aga z i n e
75
2 0 1 6
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SURFING MAGAZINE _ISSN # 0194_9314_USPS # 510_770_MAY 2016, VOLUME 52 ISSUE 5, published monthly by TEN: The Enthusiast Network, LLC, 261 Madison Ave, 6th Floor, New York, NY 10016. Copyright 2016 by TEN: The Enthusiast Network Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. Periodicals Postage Paid at New York, NY and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all UAA to
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01.
02.
03.
04.
05.
O U T TA K E S
1/1
A
QU OT E
WE
C U T:
06.
ALL I KNOW IS CJ
IS GONNA COP
SO MUCH SHIT
FOR CALLING
BRAZILIANS
INSECURE.
KELLY SLATER
07.
09.
10.
Ma y, 2 01 6
112