Happily

Ever Rafter

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL ANDERSON AND LARRY OKREND

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An easy-tobuild hip roof

makes this
gazebo a
doable project
for any DIYer
BY JENNY STANLEY

Figuring out precise angles and cuts

for a hip roof can be a daunting task
that might deter some DIYers from
attempting to build an outdoor
structure. But with the help of a
terric Web site (see Online Math
Whiz, p. 20), all of the calculating for this gazebo project is done
for you; all you have to do is follow
the plans and round up a few extra
hands, and youll be sipping iced
tea in the shade in no time. (Before
you start the project, however, be
sure to check with your local building authority regarding applicable
permits and codes.)

PREP THE FOUNDATION

To allow for proper drainage and
prevent grass and weeds from
growing beneath the gazebo, rst
mark the 12 x 12-ft. pad; then remove the sod and about 3 in. of
dirt within the marks. Add a layer
of landscape fabric and top it with
approximately 3 in. of class II gravel (photo 1, p. 20).
Next, dig four 12- to 14-in.-dia.
holes (one in each corner) to accommodate the 8-in.-dia. Sonotube forms for the concrete footings. Dig at least 24 in. deep or to
the frost-line depth for your area.
Mix the concrete and start by
lling the holes half full. Insert the
Sonotube forms so that the distance
from the center of one footing to
the center of the adjacent footings
measures 10-1/2 in. and the diagonal distance between the centers

of the footings is 14-4/5-in. Use a

laser level (photo 2) to make sure
the tops of each form are at an even
height. (The yard where we built
this gazebo was slightly sloped, so
the footing elevation above each
hole varied.)
Finish lling each hole and
form with concrete and smooth the
surface; then insert a mudsill anchor in the center of each footing.
HANDYs contractor for this project, Mike Conner, borrowed the
idea of employing mudsill anchors
from a friend who has great success
using them to build decks.
Once the concrete has cured
(usually after 24 to 48 hours), use
a reciprocating saw or sharp utility
knife to remove the Sonotube form
from the outside of each footing
(photo 3).

BUILD A SIMPLE DECK

Create the deck frame by cutting
two 2x10 boards to 10 ft. 9 in.
Double-check that the pieces rest
level on the concrete footings. Cut
two more 2x10 boards to 10 ft.
6 in.; they will t between the longer boards to create a square frame.
Fasten the pieces together and box
the frame (photo 4; see WEB EXTRAS). Add shims where there are
spaces between the boards and the
concrete footings. Secure the frame
to the concrete footings by wrapping the mudsill anchors around
each board and nailing them in
place with joist-hanger fasteners
(photo 5). Be sure to keep the box
straight and level while attaching
the straps.
Next, cut 10 4x4 posts to 6 ft. 8 in.
Using 4x4 joist hangers, fasten one
post inside each corner of the deck
frame and the rest of the posts along
the sides (photos 6 and 7). Drive a
ledger board fastener through the
frame and into each post.
Mark the locations of the 2x10
joists 16 in. OC (or 15-1/4 in. from
the end of each previous joist);
then cut all joists to t within the
frame. Be sure that the crown of
each board faces up. (To learn more
about crowning lumber, see WEB
EXTRAS). Conner recommends
nailing the joists to the frame to

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1
Cover the foundation with landscape fabric and about 3 in. of
class II gravel to prevent weed growth.

3
Fill the holes and Sonotube forms completely with concrete and insert a mudsill
anchor into each footing. When the concrete is dry, cut away the Sonotube forms.

Dig four holes for the footings and partially fill them with concrete.
Place the Sonotube forms in the holes and check that the centers
are square. Use a laser level to ensure equal height across the tops
of all Sonotube forms.

4
Build the deck frame on the concrete footings, making sure that the mudsill anchors
are prepped to wrap around the boards.
Then ensure that the frame is square.

5
Secure the mudsill anchors to the deck
frame. A palm nailer works well for
building the deck portion of this project.

ONLINE MATH WHIZ

While designing this project, we discovered a smart (and free!) Web site that
does complicated roofing calculations
for you. Go to www.blocklayer.com and
input your structures dimensions and
the type of roof youd like to build. The
site produces the precise angles, cuts,
spacing and other details for all hip,
rafter and creeper boards no more
head scratching or wasting time and
materials because of mathematical mistakes. (Keep in mind, however, that due
to factors such as variations in lumber
dimensions, etc., youll most likely have
to make slight adjustments as you assemble the roof.) JS

6
Use nails to attach the 4x4 joist hangers
inside the deck frame.

7
Insert 4x4 posts into the hangers and
screw ledger-board fasteners through
the deck boards and into the posts.

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rest of the frame with deck boards

cut to t within the edging. To nd
the right spacing, lay out all of the
boards before fastening them. Using a hidden-fastener jig such as the
Camo Marksman (see SOURCES
ONLINE), secure the boards to the
frame, creating a smooth surface
(photo 12).

hold them in place while attaching the 2x8 joist hangers (photo 8,
p. 22). Secure each 2x8 joist hanger
to the frame using joist-hanger fasteners. (Be sure to drive a nail in
every hole.) If you run into a space
where there isnt enough room for
a hanger (as we did), use shims and
locking screws to attach the joist
to the frame (photo 9).
Attach two 2x6 boards (decking blocks) to the ends of the deck
frame that run parallel to the joists
(photo 10, p. 23). This will provide
a sturdy surface for nailing the
deck boards in place.
Add the deck boards next. To
create a nished look for the perimeter of the deck, let the edge pieces
overhang slightly and miter the
corners. Youll have to notch the
edge pieces and the adjacent deck
boards with a jigsaw to t around
the 4x4 posts (photo 11). Top the

CONSTRUCT THE RAFTERS

Begin by measuring and cutting
eight 2x4s for the top plate. Secure two stacked boards on top of
the 4x4 posts along each side of
the gazebo; then add 2x4 support
brackets to each corner (photo
13). Next, refer to the rafter layout (p. 22) to cut the rafters and
hips one at a time as you assemble the roof. This will allow you
to make slight adjustments as
necessary.
Start by creating the four com-

mon rafters (to be installed from

the center of each side of the
top plate to the center point of
the roof). Cut four 8-ft. 2x6s to
7 ft. 6-3/4 in. Mark and cut the
angles for the setbacks and birdsmouths to achieve the proper
height above plate (photo 14 and
inset; to watch a video clip of this
step, see WEB EXTRAS). Cut the
overhanging ends to achieve the
desired length and nished edge.
Attach the common rafters to a
ridge, a 6-in.-long x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2-in.
piece at the center point of the roof.
Next, measure, mark and cut
four 2x6 hip boards (to be installed
from each corner of the top plate
to the center point of the roof) one
at a time to make sure you achieve
the correct length, setback and
birds-mouth. Each hip will have
a compound miter on one end for
securing to the adjacent main raf-

E AS Y - T O- B UILD G A Z E B O

33-1/2"
80"

36"

9-1/2"

10'1

1"

ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ANDERSON

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ADD ROOFING

Check that the crown of each 2x10 joist

faces up. Nail the joists in place first;
then add the joist hangers.

For spaces where there isnt enough

room for a joist hanger, use shims and
locking screws to attach the joist to the
frame.

RA F T ER L AYOU T
Common rafter

To make the roof panels, we

laminated 3/4-in. water-resistant
plywood (for the top face of the
roof) and 1/4-in. non-waterresistant plywood with a highgrade veneer (for the underside).
Creating this double layer prevents
the roong nails from puncturing
the ceiling of the gazebo.
Use construction adhesive to
glue each 4x8 sheet of 1/4-in. plywood to a sheet of 3/4-in. plywood
to create eight panels. Once the
adhesive has cured according to
the manufacturers instructions,
lift the rst panel onto the bottom
edge of the roof framing and screw
it in place along the common rafter. Snap a chalk line to mark the
cut location along the hip; then use
a circular saw with the depth guide
set to 1 in. to make the cut (photo
18). Use the scrap pieces for the
upper portions of the roof. Repeat
these steps until the roof is completely covered with plywood.
Though this is an open-air
structure, adding a vent will help
to allow air and heat to escape,
preventing too much uplift under
the roof. After youve installed the
vent, add the drip edge to the roof
using a hammer and nails (photo
19); then cover the plywood with a
layer of roong felt and staple it in
place. Top the felt with an armor of
shingles (photo 20).

Ridge

Creeper

Hi
p

ters and ridge (photos 15 and 16).

Cut the overhanging ends to the
same length as the common rafter
boards. To ensure accuracy and to
speed up the process of marking
and cutting the overhanging ends
of all subsequent boards, Conner
suggests adding a nail to the end of
each hip board (one in each corner)
and tying a string across all sides.
Making sure to mark the correct
spacing, setback, birds-mouth and
end cuts for each, continue adding
three boards (creepers) to each side
of the four hip boards (photo 17,
p. 24). There will be eight creepers
of each length.

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10

11

12

Add a double-layer of 2x6s (decking

blocks) inside the deck frame at the ends
that run parallel to the joists.

Notch and miter the decking trim boards

and secure them in place along the edge
of the frame.

Use a hidden-fastener jig such as the

Camo Marksman to attach the decking
to the joists.

Ridge

Birds-mouth

14

13
Attach the top plate to the 4x4 posts and add support brackets
to the corners of the gazebo.

Cut two common rafter boards and attach them to the ridge. Fit
them in place along the top plate, making sure that they are at
the correct height above plate (HAP). Mark and cut the birdsmouths (inset) for both boards.

15

16

Install the hip boards, making sure to cut the correct compound miters that will attach to the ridge and adjacent common rafters.
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INSTALL THE RAILING

AND APPLY FINISH
We chose to use Deckorators
26-in. classic-baluster railing from
a local home center for this project. To install the railing, start
by attaching the top and bottom
metal rails to the top and bottom
2x4s for each section of railing.
Then screw all plugs in place and
insert the balusters.
Next, mark the cut locations for
the top and bottom 2x4s for each
section and cut them to size (photo
21). Install each section of railing
by screwing it in place between the
4x4 posts. Tip: Use a couple of pieces of scrap 4x4 to prop up each railing section from the deck; this will
ensure that all sections are installed
at the same height (photo 22).
Once the railing was installed,
we sprayed on a cedar-color semitransparent water-base stain from
Thompsons WaterSeal. (To watch a
video of the process, see WEB EXTRAS.) You can apply the nish of
your choice. After the stain dries,
all thats left is to furnish your gazebo with a couple of chairs and
perhaps a small table or two; then
youre ready to relax and enjoy the
fruits of your labor.

WEB EXTRAS
To watch a quick video of
contractor Mike Conner
building this gazebo, scan
this tag or go to www.
HandymanClub.com and
click on WEB EXTRAS.

17
Attach three creepers to each side of the
hip boards; use nails and string to mark
the end cuts for all boards.

19
Install the drip edge; use tin snips to cut
the corner.

18
Enlist a couple of helpers to lift the plywood panels onto the roof framing. Use a
circular saw with the depth guide set to
1 in. to make cuts.

20
Cover the plywood with roofing felt and
shingles.

To watch the completed

gazebo being sprayed with
stain, scan this tag or go to
www.HandymanClub.com
and click on WEB EXTRAS.

To learn more about

crowning lumber, scan
this tag or go to
www.HandymanClub.com
and click on WEB EXTRAS.

SOURCES ONLINE
For online information, go to www.HandymanClub.com
and click on WEB EXTRAS.
National Nail Corp. (Camo Marksman)
www.camofasteners.com

21
After assembling the sections of railing,
fit them in place and mark the cuts.

22
Use scrap pieces of 4x4 to prop up the
railing; secure it in place.

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