Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
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Introduction
Fairly recently I began to learn how to call touches for simple methods.
These pages collect together much of what I have learnt so far. I have
written this so that I have a record of what I thought as I was learning,
before I take it all for granted, and I have put it online for other ringers
because I noticed that there wasn't anything similar.
I have been adding more pages as I learn and I have tried to explain
everything fully and simply. It surprised me that calling a touch is
actually not too difficult, so I would encourage anyone thinking about
trying for the first time to give it a go.
47
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You can also notice that the 4 and 5 are back home
halfway through. The 4 does the same work at each
set of three Homes - In, Out, Make. You can see this
from the table of work of each bell affected at a bob:
Out In Make
45
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It is really important
to put in sufficient mental preparation before you try and call any plain
course, call changes, touch or quarter peal in the tower.
Learn the actual touch, i.e. what happens.
Look at what the work of your chosen bell will be at each call.
For each call know whether you will call it at handstroke or
backstroke.
For each call work out what place your bell will be in.
Look at how many leads there are between calls. (A lead is the
ringing between the treble leading and the treble leading again.)
Go through the touch fully in your mind. Imagine you are ringing it.
I have found this kind of preparation very useful. If it seems too much
effort, remember that once you get used to it and have called
something a few times then it will not be necessary anymore.
H
2
52436
54326
54263
42563
42635
sW
62435
64325
sW
34625
sH
32645
sM
32546
sW
52346
43
%%
13254678
13524678
"6 to 7"
13524768
"4 to 7"
13527468
13572468
"2 to 7"
- this is Queens and sounds
particularly good, so ring this
more times
"7 to 2"
13527468
"7 to 4"
13524768
"7 to 6"
13524678
"5 to 2"
13254678
"5 to 4"
13245678
12345678
"3 to 2"
- back to rounds again
In simple touches and quarter peals the tenors (the 7 and 8) are not
affected by calls so we can ignore them and think of the coursing
order as 53246. Now let us look at the effects calls have on coursing
orders.
We will look at the effects of bobs and singles at Home, Wrong,
Middle and bobs at Before. If you are not sure already what these
terms mean then you can find out on the Position of Calls page.
Bob at Wrong
Rotates first three bells
53246
32546
Single at Wrong
Swaps first and third bells.
53246
23546
Bob at Home
Rotates central three bells
53246
52436
Single at Home
Swaps 2nd and 4th bells
53246
54236
Bob at Middle
Rotates last three bells
53246
53462
Single at Middle
Swaps 3rd and 5th bells
53246
53642
Bob at Before
Last bell comes to the front
53246
65324
These are some musical changes that you can choose to go between:
Queens 135246 (on 6), 13572468 (on 8) - odd bells, then even bells
Tittums 142536 (on 6), 15263748 (on 8)
Whittingtons 12753468 - 1, 2, up the odds, down the evens
Kings - 531246 - Whittingtons on 6
8
41
3
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3
Home
This means that the tenor is about to come back to its starting
position. For Bob Minor this is when the 6 is about to dodge 5-6
down. For Grandsire Triples it would be when the 7 is about to dodge
6-7 up. It is also when the tenor becomes 6ths place bell in minor. For
major it will be when the tenor is about to become 8ths place bell, and
so on. If you don't really know methods by place bells then have a
look in the Diary or some other ringing book, they will be marked
there. (8ths place bell is just the first lead that the tenor rings, 2nds
place bell is the first lead that the 2 rings, and so on.) For those
mathematically inclined, Home is when the tenor is about to become
nths place bell where n is the number of bells. If you call the 5th
unaffected in Bob Doubles this is calling three Homes.
Wrong
This means that the tenor is about to become 5ths place bell in minor,
7ths place bell in major etc. For example, 5-6 up in Plain Bob Minor
and 7ths place bell (lie, dodge, plain hunt down, dodge-lie-dodge on
the front, 3-4 places) in Cambridge S Major. That is, when the tenor is
about to become n-1'ths place bell.
Middle
This means the tenor is about to become n-2'ths place bell. You do
not really use this position in minor. In major the tenor is about to
become 6ths place bell.
The calls come at backstroke and they always come at backstroke for
Plain Bob on any number of bells.
Before
This means that if there is a bob then the tenor will run out. So in Bob
Minor it is when the 6 is about to become 2nds place bell (that is,
make 2nds over the treble). In Cambridge S Major it is also when the
tenor is about to become 2nds place bell (that is, about to make 2nds
over the treble and then do Cambridge front work). However, in
Bristol S Major it is when the tenor is about to become 3rds place bell
because in the plain course no-one makes 2nds over the treble, you
just run out whether or not there is a bob.
Just as for the 120 when you call yourself unaffected, you need to call
three bobs with these touches. The four 120s this gives are the only
ones possible for Plain Bob Doubles.
These are the main positions. The calls are put in just before you get
to the leadend in question, e.g. for a Wrong in Bob Minor make the
call when the tenor strikes in 5ths place before dodging 5-6 up.
10
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Grandsire Doubles
In Grandsire the calls come when the treble is in 3rds place
The handstroke you need is the change before you ring backwards
rounds, which is when the 5 (in the middle of 7ths place bell) rings in
3rds place in the middle of the dodge at the end of the first set of 3-4
places. When you ring in 4ths place on your way up call "That's all"
and it should come round at the next change.
Three leads of Bristol
It is however common to ring three leads of Bristol S Major. To do this
you call a bob at the end of each lead. This works because the 5, 6, 7
and 8 all dodge at a bob and repeat the work that they have just
done. (You can also say that they repeat the place bell.)
The 2, 3 and 4 ring those place bells once each. As in Plain Bob, the
calls come the change before the treble leads full, so when the treble
dodges back into 2nds place and 2 blows before you become your
next place bell.
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With Grandsire Doubles you can also have 240's where you have each
change twice
The most commonly rung of these are called Morris' 240's after their
composer. You can find some of these in the Ringing World Diary.
For a quarter peal of Grandsire Doubles you need ten 120's and a 60,
just as for a quarter peal of Plain Bob Doubles. You can use the 240's
and other lengths too if you like.
Grandsire has a reputation of being hard to call. I do not understand
exactly why this is and do not agree with it. If you do your preparation
and work out where the calls will come as described above, there is
absolutely no reason why you should find it any harder than Plain Bob.
117
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Notice that when you call a bob at 14 you make the bob and so
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The simplest way to call a quarter of Bob Minor is to call a 720 (an
extent, i.e. all the possible changes) followed by a 540, and to call this
from the tenor. However, for my first quarter of Bob Minor as conductor
I knew that I couldn't manage the tenor and concentrate on the calls,
so I chose this 1260 in which the 4 repeats the same work six times.
These are several simple touches which can be called from any bell
and in which you are always unaffected. One such is to call bobs at
the S positions (positions 3 and 4) and then call them again the next
time you get to these points. So four bobs in all and you ring 2 plain
courses in all. Suppose you are ringing the 4
W B
5243
ss
six part
s for - halfway and end
omit ss from parts 4, 5, and 6
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Stedman Doubles
Ringing the 6:
Choose your bell and choose another with whom youre going to
make the singles. As you come to double-dodge either 4-5 up or
down with this bell call a single in your first blow in 4ths place if you
would have dodged up, or your last blow lying in 5ths place if you
would have dodged down. So the calls come at handstroke.
Make the single, and remember that if you make a single it changes
the way you go back down to the front. When you meet this bell again
call the second single and do the other part of making a single (i.e. do
cats ears then anti-cats ears, or vice versa). This is a 120.
7ths unaffected.
At the next lead end (that is, when the
20
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This is how this touch is written out in, say, the Ringing World Diary.
112
234567
352746
-
357624
356472
543267
Repeat
A dash in the left column, "-", means that there is a bob at that lead
end, a blank means it is a plain lead. If it were a touch with singles
there would be an "S" against the lead ends where you needed to call
a single.
"Repeat" tells you to ring it again. If a touch has "repeat twice" that
means you ring it 3 times in total, and so on. So from this way of
writing the touch you can extract PBBPPBBP, and it's also a quicker
way to see what each bell is doing at each lead end than always
working it out from the beginning - for example, at the third lead end
the 5 has become 3rds place bell and so will make 2nds next time
(providing there is no call).
22
... and out of the hunt with bobs (unless it is the end of the 3rd
or 6th part, when you need the second bob to be a single)
You can then have a look at what your work is at every call..
4-5 down - this is what you do at the very start
P
6-7 down
double-dodge 4-5 up
3rds unaffected
6-7 up
4-5 up
3rds unaffected
6-7 up
4-5 up
3rds unaffected
6-7 up
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times, S for B
at 3rd and
6th part ends
26
Grandsire Triples
168 changes - In and out three times
The simplest touch is to call yourself in and out of the hunt three
times. You can do this from the 4, the 6 or the 7. (You can also call it
from the 2. Then it becomes "out and in three times" because the 2 is
in the hunt at the start.)
You start off ringing until you reach the place where you would go into
the hunt if a bob were called, that is you are coming away from lead
and you are preparing to
dodge 4-5 up. But if you go
into the hunt you miss out
your 4-5 up dodge and
instead make thirds and lead
again. Since you want to go
into the hunt you call a bob
when you are in 2nds place,
as you come away from lead.
(Remember that in Grandsire
the calls are made when the
treble is in 3rds place, which
is always at handstroke.)
You then hunt up to the back
but on your way down you
will want to get out of the
hunt, which you do by
double-dodging 4-5 down. So
call a bob as you first ring in
5ths place on the way down
and do the double-dodge as
required.
Do this twice more. At 168
changes this touch is the
length of two plain courses.
23
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Ringing the 3:
Work out the exact position of the calls, there is no point putting
2nds unaffected.
At the next lead end you would have
You can learn and call this touch from these bells and work it out for
other bells until you are comfortable with it. So long as you know
where the calls come for each bit of work you are about to do, soon
you can try taking any bell and just working out what happens as you
ring. Then you will just need to remember "PBBP repeated".
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Stedman Triples
Unlike Plain Bob and Grandsire, Stedman is not built up from leads but
from sixes. A six just means six changes. A six can be a quick six or a
slow six, depending on whether the bells on the front are right hunting
or wrong hunting. (Right hunting is normal hunting as in Plain Bob, it
means when you come down to the front you are leading at
handstroke and then at backstroke. Wrong hunting is the other way
round, so when you come down to the front you are leading first at
backstroke and then at handstroke.) Away from the front all bells
double-dodge and a double-dodge fills up a six.
The relevance of this for calling touches is that you put calls in at the
5th change of a 6 and so the first step is to learn where these points
are. A slight further complication is that we actually start ringing
Stedman at the 4th change of a six, so there could be a call
immediately.
To the left is a diagram of the line, with the calling points
and the starting points marked. The calling points are
marked with a red dot and are numbered.
The starting points are less obvious but are numbered
with the numbers in circles. To begin with you will only
need the calling points which have letters after them
(these are explained below).
There is a calling position at the last dodge of every
double-dodge.
All calls are at handstroke.
The pair 3 and 4 is called S (for slow).
The pair 5 and 6 is called H (for half-turn).
The pair 7 and 8 is called L (for last whole-turn).
The pair 12 and 13 is called Q (for quick).
W B H
5243
ss---
3542
ss---
3245
ss--s
5342
---
2543
---
2345
--s
I worked the part ends out when I went through the lead ends for
each part. The tenor doesnt appear in these because she is
unaffected throughout and so always at the end of the change at the
part end. As you can see, the 4 is also back home at the end of
every part, i.e. in fourths place which is why I chose to call this
composition from the 4.
The next thing is to work out the lead ends in at least the first part and
also to note how many leads between calls and the work of your bell
at each call (which is obviously easiest for the 6 and 4). Also look at
which bells make the singles in the first 3 parts and which bells are
unaffected at the other calls.
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Surprise Major
If you're ringing the 3 then to call the 5 halfhunt you might like to call PSPBPB x2.
The first lead you dodge 4-5 down as
usual. Then you call the single when you
are in seconds place coming away from
lead. So make long thirds.
Your next work is dodge 4-5 down and the
following lead you will make thirds and go
into the hunt. Make the call at your first
blow in lead.
Hunt for two leads - when you get to the
back the second time you need to call a
bob at your second blow behind and
double-dodge 4-5 down.
Now dodge 4-5 up. At the next call (the
second single) make seconds and go back
into the hunt. The call will be at your first
blow in lead.
Again, hunt for two leads - when you get to
the back the second time you need to call
a bob at your second blow behind and
double-dodge 4-5 down.
Dodge 4-5 up. Finally you will make 3rds
unaffected at the last call, call the bob
when you strike your first blow at lead.
"That's all" comes the blow before you get
rounds, so when you are in seconds place.
"Go, Cambridge!"
Ring 4 leads
"Plain hunt"
"That's all!"
Taking your own work (ringing the 3), you are doing Cambridge front
work - "dodge, lead, dodge, 2nds, lead, dodge" and then you would
make 2nds, which would force everyone behind you to dodge. But you
want to hunt into 3rds place so as you dodge back into lead before
making seconds call "plain hunt", you run out and then call "That's all!"
at the next blow, when you are in 2nds place. Then ring in 3rds place
and it should have come round!
You can of course call this from any bell.
Half a course (3 1/2 leads) of Yorkshire, Superlative, Bristol
In these methods you get backwards rounds (87654321) exactly
halfway through the plain course, i.e. after 3 1/2 leads. So from this
point you can ring 8 changes of plain hunt and get back to rounds.
So you start the method as usual and ring 3 and a bit leads of it.
Suppose you're ringing the 5 for Yorkshire: You ring 5ths, 2nds and
6ths place bells and start 7ths place bell. You call "plain hunt" at
handstroke because it is a change of method (i.e. it is like when you
call "Go, Yorkshire" at the beginning of the touch).
34
You may like to work out the touch you are going to call beforehand,
in fact I would strongly recommend this the first few times you call a
touch in any method. Once you have got used to it you will probably
be able to work out what happens as you go along.
Another common 120 of Grandsire Doubles is SBSP twice repeated...
i.e. SBSP SBSP SBSP. You can also have all rotations of this, so
then you would start with another lead - say the plain lead, which
would give you PSBS PSBS PSBS.
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You need to call ten 120s and a 60 to give you 1260 changes. Your
120s can be any you like, but it is probably a good idea to ring them
in some kind of order (such as 2 unaffected, 3 unaffected, 4
unaffected, 5 unaffected, then repeat all of that and ring two bells
unaffected again), so that you dont lose count!
bell you choose to ring depends on how difficult you want to make it
for yourself. Here we will look at it from the 6, which is unaffected
(so are the 7 and 8).
First there is a bob at Home, so when the tenor is about to become
8ths place bell again (i.e. at the very end of the plain course). The 6
is about to become 6ths place bell. For a method where the treble
treble-bobs, like Yorkshire, you make calls at the blow before the
treble leads full, i.e. when it dodges back into 2nds place.
You also need to call the 60 to make up the changes. There are two
possible 60s: PBPBPB or BPBPBP. What that notation means is that
PBPBPB you have a plain lead (i.e. you ring as usual) and then you
have a bob lead i.e. you call a bob! And you do this 3 times.
If you are ringing the 4 then it is sensible to call PBPBPB because
this means you make 5ths, make 4ths (i.e. make the bob), make
5ths, make 4ths, make 5ths, make 4ths.
If you are ringing the 5 then its sensible to call BPBPBP because
then you make 4ths, make 5ths, make 4ths etc.
If you ring another bell youll need to work out what you do
Then you ring another course and call a bob just as you are about
place bell.
Finally there is the last call a single this time. This is at the Wrong
36
You can ring the 60 when you like. An argument for ringing it first is
that if it goes wrong its very easy to start again. An argument for
planning to ring it last is that if you end up ringing one too many 120s
because something goes wrong then you can just miss out the 60.
If you miss a bob all is not necessarily lost
You can nest 120's inside each other - so suppose you have begun to
ring an extent with the 3 unaffected, but then you miss the second
bob. So you wanted to ring PPBP PPBP PPBP, but you've actually
got to PPBP PPP... You can call a bob the next lead and begin a new
extent before you've finished the last one. So you will get PPBP PP
(PBPP PBPP PBPP)BP PPBP.
You could instead nest a 60 inside the 120 which had the mistake.
You can do something similar when any bell is unaffected except with
the 5 unaffected because in this case you will have already had 4
plain leads and so had a plain course.
Hopefully you won't miss a bob in the first place - but it's nice to know
there might be a remedy!
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An example
You may wish to call this quarter from a bell that is not the 6, the 7 or
the 8. To work out how easy the work of each bell is to remember, you
can work out the coursing orders for the quarter. I have done this and
explained it on the Coursing Order page. Here they are again:
5324
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5243
5432
4352
3542
3425
3254
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5234
You first hunt to the back and then down to the front, you are
about to make 2nds. So the first call is at this lead end. You
will be running out so the call will come at your second blow
at lead. (As soon as I start hunting down to the front I start
preparing myself for the call.)
Then you have a small break before the next call. Having run
out you make 2nds next time. Once I've done this I start
thinking about where the next call will be.
Out In
Make
You want to make the bob next time, so this will be when you
were about to dodge 3-4 up. So you dodge 3-4 down, then do
long 5ths, then you hunt up and are about to dodge 3-4 up.
"Bob" comes at your blow in 3rds place. You make 4ths.
Then you have another break. You go up and make long 5ths
as you always do after making a bob. Once I've got to here I
think about the next call. This time you want to run in, so this
will be when you were about to dodge 3-4 down.
So you dodge 3-4 up, make 2nds and then you are about to
dodge 3-4 down. But you don't quite get this far because you
call the third and last bob when you get to 4ths place and so
you run in.
Now you are almost done. You will need to call "that's all" at
the blow before you get rounds. This is when the 3rd has just
dodged 3-4 up so after the last bob you dodge 3-4 down next
time, then make long 5ths and put the "that's all" in when you
strike in 4ths place at handstroke before you dodge back to
3rds place.
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Coursing Orders
Knowing coursing orders can help you understand and learn a quarter
peal or touch better, follow what is going on and check other bells are
right.
The easiest touch to call is to call yourself unaffected. You can also
say "call yourself observation" or "ring the observation bell". You can
choose to ring the 2, 3, 4 or 5.
This will tell you what coursing orders are and how to work them out.
You will call three bobs in total. Each comes just as you start your
long fifths. As you know, when you make long fifths you are
unaffected by bobs, so these bobs will not affect you, and in all you
will ring 3 plain courses. Each bob cycles the other three working
(inside) bells around.
In Plain Bob you make all calls when the treble is in 2nds place on the
way down, so the blow before she leads. If you are calling yourself
unaffected, as you are here, then this means that you call "bob" as
you are about to strike your first blow in 5ths. This is at backstroke.
So call a bob each time you get to this point. When you've done this
three times you are done, except to call "That's all" at the blow before
you get back to your starting place. And that's all there is to it.
Calling yourself unaffected:
This is also the order you follow the other bells from any bell in Plain
Bob, allowing for slight blips when you dodge or make seconds. The
treble also appears at different points in each lead.
Say you are ringing the 5. Then you can look at the coursing order and
see that in Plain Bob you will follow the 7 down to lead and then the 3
will follow you down to lead. The 7 and 3 are your coursebells. In fact,
you can say that the 7 is your coursebell and the 3 is your afterbell.
In Surprise methods the coursing order is not so clear to see but it is
there all the same. For example in Cambridge and Yorkshire you
dodge with your course bells every time you are at the back so this is a
pointer which is good to know. In Yorkshire you often dodge with them
on the front too.
40
12345
21435
24153
42513
45231
54321
53412
35142
31524 Bob!
13254
12354
21534
25143
/
AD
.B
);<FE
(
C(
#
(
1!
/!
7*<F
*7<F
)
!
7)*<F
*)7<F
/"
)*+0
)+0*
)
"
)
)*<0
)0<*
//
1
);<0
0);<
/#
*+F
*+F
)
#
;
<
;+F
+;F
2
Call Changes
53246
52436
54326
43526
35426
34256
32546
52346
123456
W
H
H
H
sW
H
H
H
W
H
H
H
sW
H
H
H
42
5324
3254
3542
3425
3254
5234
5342
5423
5234
2354
2543
2435
2354
5324
5243
5432
5324
up
down
132456
Make your calls at handstroke and then the bells change over at the
following handstroke. More exactly, the calls come when the treble
pulls off at handstroke, so if you are ringing a back bell then you
either need to watch the treble or call just that bit before you pull off.
Wait a little between each call. Long enough that the band is ringing
the new change as evenly as they can but short enough that you do
not all get bored! Generally you should get back to rounds at the end.
After a few more rounds at the end call "Stand" at a handstroke.
A piece of advice I found helpful when first trying to call changes is to
actually write out every change you are going to call to make it easier
to see what is happening. I have done this here for the simple
example of calling the bells to Queens and straight back to rounds:
A
B
C
@
-(
#
-(
#
-(
+
-
1
(
+
1
-
#
(-
1
-
#
(-
+
1
(
Once you have found out how to work out the coursing orders for a
quarter peal of Plain Bob Major you can try calling it with more of an
idea of what the other bells should be doing. This may be your first
step to conducting as opposed to bob calling.
...
231546
213456
124365 "That's all!"
123456
2345
5243
3245
44
3254
3542
3425
3254
5234
5342
5423
5234
2354
2543
2435
2354
5324
5243
5432
5324
Make sure that your calls are loud enough, clear and polite.
If the ringing becomes too choppy, with too many people
lost and if there is no-one to put them right, then it is your
responsibility to call "Rounds please" or something similar
and then either "Stand" or "Go again" depending on what
the person running the ringing indicates to you.
If at all possible you should try and have rounds before you
stand the bells, unless there is an emergency such as a
stay or rope breaking or a learner losing control of their
bell. Not to do this is bad manners and also it does not
sound good to anybody who might be listening outside.
Tip: There is no shame at all, particularly when you are
learning, in calling something very easy -- even if it seems
too easy to you. Nobody will mind, and it is much better to
have a successful, short and simple burst of call changes
than one where you get yourself muddled up in the middle.
The band will have more confidence in you and you will
have more confidence in yourself next time you are asked
to call something!
5
-
Further Resources
Preliminaries
Web Links
These pages describe the basics you need to know to take your very
first steps in calling a touch. Learn when to call "Go", "That's all" and
"Stand". Including which stroke to call them on and some examples of
calling a plain course of Plain Bob Doubles, Plain Bob Minor and
Grandsire Doubles. There are some ideas on how you can prepare a
touch before you get into the tower. You can also learn how to call
changes.
musical changes.
You might try Mark Banner's Standard 8 pages for touches.
The touches section of the Cambridge District of the Ely Diocesan
Guild website has some touches for doubles, minor and major.
Don Morrison's site contains lots of quarter peals and peals.
Roger Bailey's Ringing Resources links to most of the ringing
pages on the web.
Book Links
The Ringing World Diary has a selection of touches. This is
A good way to start to learn to call is to ask your tower captain to let
you say "Go and Stop" to a plain course of any method.
Wait for the rounds to settle down and become fairly regular.
As you pull off on a handstroke say "Go, Plain Bob Doubles", or
work your chosen bell will just have done and which precise place
the bell you are ringing will be in.
For plain courses "That's all" comes at a handstroke. Some
touches e.g. Grandsire and Stedman come round at handstroke
and so "That's all" is at a backstroke. We shall go through three
examples of where to say "That's all" in the following pages.
Wait for a few more rounds before you call "Stand" at handstroke.