So Sew Easy

Empire of the Sun-Dress

Summer has never been so much fun in this reversible sundress.
Cross over bodice front and back creates a low back and v-neck
front.
In sizes to fit bust 31 to 45 inches.
For knit fabrics only - I used an ITY knit for my dresses and the bindings.
(Read more about different types of knit fabrics here.)
Fabric needed for all sizes Assuming fabric 54 inches wide, sizes A& B
need approx. 1.75 yards, C/D/E need 2 yards and F/G need 2.5 yards.

More photos and the full step by step

photo sewing instructions for this skirt
can be found on So Sew Easy here
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
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Page 1

Skill level Intermediate

so on. In our pattern, this is called Print for all layers. Then there are

You can find a range of useful sewing tutorials and videos at So Sew Easy
tutorials page. Experience in sewing knit bindings would be useful.

the size layers, one layer for each size. Next to the layers is a little
icon that looks like an eye. You can click the eye to turn each layer
on and off, so you can see it, or not see it. Pick your size and turn off
the eye from all the other layers, except the Print for all Sizes layer.

Please read through all of these instructions before

starting your project and cutting your fabric.

Up at the top menu, select File, then Print and up comes the print
preview box.

To print your PDF pattern

Your pattern and instructions come as one file to make printing easy.
Please make sure you are using the latest version of Adobe for best results.
You can download the latest version here if you need to.
This pattern comes as a Layered PDF file which means you can select the
size you want to print and hide the others. If this is your first time with a
layered PDF file, you can read a full step by step photo tutorial on how to
use it here:
How to print just your size in a layered PDF file

To select the layers you want to see and print, go over to the menu
with little icons on the left hand side. Pick the icon that looks like one
sheet of paper on top of the other that is the layers tool. Now you
can see all of the separate layers in your pattern. These will
correspond to your sizes.
There is one layer that has all of the fixed information on it, such as
the test square, size chart, pattern piece names and descriptions and
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Page 2

Make sure you have selected Actual Size as the print option so that
there isnt any scaling of the pattern. Dont select Fit to page or
Shrink Oversized Pages. You can use the arrows under the preview
on the right to see all of the pages.
You can print the lot including the pattern and instructions, or if you
want, just print the pattern pieces at the end of these instructions.

Need help with the pattern?

You can find helpful tutorials on how to download, print and assemble PDF
sewing patterns here:
How to download and print a PDF sewing pattern
How to print and assemble a PDF sewing pattern
How to print a layered PDF file

Assembling your pattern

On the top edge of the first pattern sheet is a test square. This box should
measure 2 inches square. If yours is wildly different you will need to check
your printer options to make sure the pages are not being resized.
Match up the pattern pieces, folding under or cutting off any overlaps, and
tape together. Match up lines and circles across pattern pieces.

If you have printed just your size, you may not need all of the sheets, and
your pattern will look much simpler than that above.

Your assembled pattern should look like this:

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Page 3

Always test the fit using the paper pattern pieces, or an inexpensive

Materials needed

Knit stretch fabric see suggestions

Matching thread

Stretch or ball point needle for knit fabrics

Useful serger or Overcasting foot

Optional Stretch Twin Needle

test fabric before cutting your expensive fabric for this project. If in doubt
test the larger size and adjust for fitting at the seams during construction.
Size

A
B
C
D
E
F
G

Fabric requirements, suggestions and layout

Stretch fabrics with moderate stretch, that allow you to take a close-fitting
dress on and off. Fabric with a lesser stretch will feel tighter, a great stretch
will feel looser. The skirt will drape nicely in a soft fabric.
Fabric needed for all sizes Assuming fabric 54 inches wide, sizes A& B
need approx. 1.75 yards, C/D/E need 2 yards and F/G need 2.5 yards.

Bust in inches
@ widest
part
31
33
35
37.5
40
42.5
45

Directions

More fabric may be needed for pattern matching, stripes etc. if you have a
large pattern repeat.

Seam allowances 1/2 inch / 1.25 cm unless otherwise stated

What size do I need?

Stitches to use if using a regular sewing machine, you may have a stretch

Abbreviations used RST right sides together.

stitch refer to your sewing machine manual.

Please use this table as a guide only as although our body measurements
may be similar, different body shapes may require fitting differently.

If not, then you can use a narrow zig-zag stitch try a stitch length of 2.5

Fabrics with different thickness, drape and stretch will also affect the
finished result and fit on this project.

and a width of 0.5 or 1.0. Always test your intended stitches on a scrap of
fabric before starting your project and test for stretch.

Compare the flat pattern measurements to your own body measurements

Trim, neaten and finish your seams as you go. You may use a serger, or

to determine ease as we all have a different preference as to how our

trim and overcast, or zigzag, or simply trim and leave raw. Most knit fabrics

clothes fit.

do not fray so you may also chose to leave the inside edges unfinished.
Always stop your stitching coming undone at each end of your seam by
backstitching 2 or 3 stitches.
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Page 4

Cut your fabric pieces. You'll need 2 skirt pieces and 4 bodice pieces. The

Lets sew

back and the front of this dress are the same. Lay out your bodice pieces
so you can be sure which pieces go where and that the 'points' are

Download, print and assemble your pattern. If you need help in printing the

pointing towards center with the armholes on the outside. I know it seems

layered PDF file just in your size, check out this previous article - How to

obvious, but just double check before joining the shoulders. Then join two

Print a Layered PDF Pattern. Or you can just print all sizes, like a regular
pattern. Instructions for printing are included in your download above.

opposite pieces together at the shoulder. Repeat for the other side.

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Page 5

To finish the edges, you have two options:

Contrast or matching fabric trim

As a rule of thumb, your binding should be about 85% of the length of the
neckline, but this depends on your fabrics so use your own judgement and
experience.

Cut yourself some contrast (or matching) trim 1.5 inches wide. The stretch
in the fabric runs along the length of your trim.

Sew along the middle of the width of the binding. Leave an inch of spare
binding at each end, we can trim this later.

Fold it in half and match the raw edges of the trim with the raw edges of
the bodice armholes and neckline. You can pin if you like, or just match up
as you sew. Slightly stretch the trim as you sew it on.

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Page 6

Fold back the binding and press seam allowances to the main fabric. Stitch
through all layers close to the binding stitching line. This holds everything
neatly in place on the back and keeps it all flat.

Here's what it looks like on the inside. You can choose to trim away any
extra close to the stitching line if you like.

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Page 7

No trim - turn and stitch option

Join the bodice side seams. If you've added the trim, make sure the edges
match neatly under the arm.

You may also turn a small seam allowance to the wrong side and stitch if
you don't want to use a binding. Finish the neckline edges while flat. You
may choose to turn and finish the armhole in the round once the side seam
is sewn, if you aren't adding the binding.
Here are the finished bodice pieces.

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Page 8

Mark 9 inches from the point on each bodice piece and overlap the points
by the 9 inches. Pin the overlaps in place. CAREFULLY try on your bodice
and check for fit. Try not to get a pin in the eye!

Sew the skirt side seams to make a tube of fabric.

Match the side seams on the skirt with the side seams on the bodice,
matching right sides together. Your bodice and skirt empire lines will be
different lengths.

Depending on your size and unique body shape, the 9 inch overlap might
or might not work for you. Adjust the fit until you are happy with the
neckline. Hand baste in place with a loose stitch. Repeat for the front and
the back. Both are the same.

No problem, our fabric is stretchy and we're going to 'ease' the two
together to fit.

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Page 9

Find center front and center back on the skirt and bodice and match. Ease
the fabric evenly between the 4 quarters and pin the bodice and skirt
together.

Join the two with a 3/4 inch seam allowance.

With raw edges matching, finish with a serger, a zig-zag stitch or an
overcasting stitch to join all fabric edges and create a casing within the
seam allowance for your elastic. Leave a small gap to thread through your
elastic.

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Page 10

Press the casing down towards the skirt and sew close to the edge to
secure it.
Make sure to leave enough room for your elastic.

Your dress is finished. I hope you have great success making this summer
sundress pattern.

Thread your elastic through the casing and then try on the dress to check
for fit and trim your elastic to fit snugly but comfortably. Stitch the ends of
the elastic together and close the gap in the casing.

Enjoy wearing your Empire of the Sun-Dress and maybe think about
making one in a glitsy fabric for a date night dress. That would be nice too
with the low back.

Try on your dress and check the length of the hemline. Trim if
necessary. Finish the hem with your favorite method. A stretch stitch isn't
necessary. I just turned up the hem, pressed and stitched. You can use a
twin needle for a nice finish - read how here.
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Page 11

Keep up with all the latest news and sewing

projects at So Sew Easy.
We also have a really great sewing chat group where you can ask
questions, share your completed projects, and get 24 hr sewing inspiration.
Its not just for So Sew Easy projects you can chat about all sewing there,
whether a newbie just starting out, or an advanced and experienced sewer,
theres something for everyone in the sewing chat group. Join us here and
share what you made.

SEWING CHAT GROUP

For the latest list of both free and paid patterns
available, pop on over to my designer page at
Craftsy.

Thank you for downloading this pattern. I hope you enjoyed making this
project and remember that I love to see what you made so do upload your
completed projects to the pattern page on Craftsy.

This pattern graphic, the photos and the instructions are copy right Deby Coles at So
Sew Easy. Please do not copy, publish, sell, redistribute or alter them in any way.
Please dont print and give to your friends, or send it to anyone by email. Please do
not rebrand this work as your own and sell or give it away, even if altered. This is
intended for your personal use. If you would like to recommend these instructions,
please pass on the original download link at So Sew Easy. Thank you for your
understanding. Usage you ARE allowed to use this pattern to make things to sell on
a small handmade basis, such as for craft fairs and for your Etsy shop. However it may
not be used for larger scale commercial purposes without a commercial licence.

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Page 12

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So Sew Easy
Empire of the Sun-Dress
2015 So-Sew-Easy.com