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Oleaje
Propagacin
n Viaje
n El
Oleaje
refraccin
refraccin
difraccin
Oleaje
n
Aguas Profundas:
Aguas profundas
Oleaje
n
donde d es la profundidad.
Oleaje
n
Oleaje
Oleaje
n
del
oleaje
+
Reflexi
n
del
oleaje
Oleaje
Punta Candor, Rota
2 de Diciembre 2004
Punta Candor, Rota
Punta Candor, Rota
2 de Diciembre 2004
2 de Diciembre 2004
Oleaje
Refraccin
n Fenmeno
n La
n La
n El
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Refraccin del oleaje
Oleaje
n
Oleaje
n CLCULO
Oleaje
n Mtodos
(2):
n Hiptesis
(6):
C f(T, d).
n Cada elemento de onda viaja perpendicular al frente (ortogonal).
n E contenida entre dos ortogonales se mantiene constante.
n Se desprecia: viento, percolacin, turbulencia, corrientes, reflexin y
difraccin.
n Ondas simples (Airy), T cte., crestas largas.
n Curvatura de la Tierra ?
n
Oleaje
Ortogonales
Planos de oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
n CLCULO
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
Oleaje
sin '
'
'
1 &Equation
sin II-3-9, 1 & (0.29)
In deep water, is 45 deg. From
Example
(Concluded)
1 & II-3-1
(0.707)
0.50
0 4 Problem
4
Kr '
C1 sin 0
0.91
' 0.86
C sin 0
Therefore: Hi = H0 Ks Kr = 1(1.14) (0.86) = 0.98
sinm. ' 1
C0
0
The angle of approach is arc sin (sin) = 16.80. Thus, the l-m,
15-sec wave has changed 2 percent in
m/15
=
9.60
m/s.
water C0 = 1.56T = 23.4 m/s. In 10 m of water, C1 = L1/T = 144
s in angle
= 23.4 m/s. In 10 m of water, C1 = L1/T = 144 m/15s = 9.60 m/s.
In
deep
C0 =of1.56T
28.2
degwater
approach.
Oleaje
'
at the 4-m depth, the wave height for a 45-deg initial angle is 1.18 m compared
1.3902
m for a wave w
30toApr
n Problema23.4
simple de23.4
refraccin:
23.4
23.4
sin '
Kr '
1
4
1 & sin20
1 & sin2
angle of 0 deg. If the initial angle had been 70 deg, Kr Ks would be about 0.8.
1
4
1 & (0.707)2
1 & (0.29)2
'
'
1
Table 1
II-3-1
2
0.50 4
& sin20 4
1
&
(0.707)
4
' 0.86K '
Example Problem II-3-1 Refraction
and Shoaling Results
'
'
r
EXAMPLE
PROBLEM
II-3-1
0.91
2
2
1 & sin = 0
1 & (0.29)
= 15
Depth
o
0.50 4
' 0.86
0.91
= 45
o
FIND:
H
(0.86)height
= 0.98H
m.and angle at water
ore: Hi = H0 Ks Kr = 1(1.14)
= H200,
(0.86)
= 0.98
m.40, 30, 20, 10, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8,
Therefore:
Hi of
Wave
depths
100,
90,
80,
70,
60,
50,
0 Ks K
r = 1(1.14)
500
0
1.00
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
o
o
o
0
,
15
,
and
45
.
6,
and
4
m
for
deepwater
wave
angles
of
0
01.00
400 in height
0 by
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
gle of approach is arc sin (sin) = 16.8 . Thus, the l-m, 15-sec wave has changed 2 percent
o
The angle of approach is arc sin (sin) = 16.8 . Thus, the l-m, 15-sec wave has changed 2 percent in
300
0
1.00
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
28.2 deg in angle of approach.
g in angle of approach.
GIVEN:
200
1.00
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
SOLUTION:
70
0
0.92
13.2
0.91
38.9
0.88
II-3-1
Routine solutions for a plane beach can be obtained Table
using
the
ACES
wave
transformation
code,
by
direct
60
0
0.91
12.7
0.91
37.0
0.86
Example Problem II-3-1 Refraction and Shoaling Results
calculation,
or
graphically
using
Figure
II-3-6.
50
0
0.91
12.0
0.91
34.5
0.85
= 15
= 45
Depth
=0
= 15
= 45
Depth
=0
Table II-3-1
Example Problem II-3-1 Refraction and Shoaling Results
o
40
0.92
H
0.95
11.1
9.9
0.92
H
0.94
31.8
28.1
0.84
H
0.85
300
1.00
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
200
1.00
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
300
16
200
14
0
0
0
0
1.00
1.04
1.00
1.07
15.0
7.8
15.0
7.1
1.00
1.03
1.00
1.05
45.0
21.1
45.0
19.8
1.00
0.91
1.00
0.92
80
0.93
13.7
0.92
30.4
0.89
90
10
80
8
0
0
0
0
0.93
1.14
0.93
1.19
14.0
6.1
13.7
5.5
0.93
1.12
0.92
1.17
41.2
16.8
30.4
15.1
0.91
0.98
0.89
1.02
60
0.91
12.7
0.91
37.0
0.86
50
0.91
12.0
0.91
70
6
60
4
0
0
0
0
0.92
1.27
0.91
1.39
13.2
4.8
12.7
3.9
0.91
1.25
0.91
1.37
38.9
13.15
37.0
10.8
0.88
1.08
0.86
1.18
12.0
0.91
34.5
0.85
40
0.92
11.1
11.1
0.92
31.8
0.84
30
0.95
9.9
30
Table
II-3-1
provides
the
obtained
using500
the ACES
code.
On a15.0
personal
computer
with
a
500
0
1.00
15.0results
1.00
45.0 by directly
1.00
0
1.00
1.00
45.0
1.00
20
0
1.00
8.4
0.99
23.4
0.88
400
0microprocessor,
1.00
15.0the results
1.00
45.0be obtained
1.00
486-level
may
in seconds.
400
0
1.00
15.0
1.00
45.0
1.00
18
0
1.02
8.0
1.01
22.3
0.89
For a wave with a depth of 10 m and an initial wave angle of 45 deg, wave height and angle are calculated as
100
0
0.94
14.3
0.94
42.4
0.92
100
0
0.94
14.3
0.94
42.4
0.92
12
0
1.10
6.6
1.08
18.4
0.95
follows:
90
0
0.93
14.0
0.93
41.2
0.91
Since
the deepwater
of a 15-sec
wave
70
0
0.92 wave
13.2length
0.91
38.9
0.88 is
34.5
0.85
2
2
50
0
L
'
1.56
T
' 1.56 (15)
' 351
m0.91
0
0.92
31.8
0.84
40
0.94
0
0.99
28.1
0.85
0.92
0
0.95
9.9
0.85
initial
wave is a30deepwater
condition.
The
wave0.94
length28.1
of the wave
and
since 500
m 1.00
is greater8.4than L /2, the given
20
0
23.4
0.88
20
0
1.00
8.4
0.99
23.4
0.88
in
be 1.02
estimated
18 10 m must
0
8.0from 1.01
22.3
0.89
18
0
1.02
8.0
1.01
22.3
0.89