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A Monk in Koyasan - An Interview with Nobuhiro Tamura

Photographic Memories - Leaving Koyasan Day 10

I first meet Nobuhiro Tamura at the entrance of the

A Monk in Koyasan

temple.

As I disembark the bus, there is a light drizzle in Koya San. I

notice some fellow travellers heading for the same lodgings and
we tentatively drift onto the grounds, standing at the entrance of
the Shukubo (temple lodgings) ready to check in.
Nobuhiro greets us with a smile. He gives a quick explanation
regarding footwear. (Only slippers or socks allowed inside the
temple and lodgings) before escorting us to a separate building.
I am lead to a room at the back. Its traditional Japanese style
accommodation complete with tatami mats, low table covered by
a blanket and a beautiful view of a rock garden that can be seen
through large glass sliding doors.

I originally came to the temple as a translator. I was friends

with the priests son and this lead to an offer of a part time
job during my vacation time from university. I wasnt really
interested in Buddhism at all, but during that time I learnt a
lot and became very interested.

So its not a case of sending a resume, or an email?

Prior to my arrival, I conducted some research about Koyasan and

the monks residing there. I was aware that they lead a life of
discipline without giving up all pleasures. This means that even
though they are allowed to drink, have fun (in moderation) and
even get married, they also adhere to ascetic principles at certain
times. Yet I am still pleasantly surprised at Nobuhiros approach
and honesty. My curiosity is piqued and at this point I decide to
request an interview.

A clean room is like having a clear mind. We believe that our

external environment, (what we can see with the eye) is
connected to our internal environment (what is inside of
us), so this is very important. The priest watches us work and
then we are invited to take part in a ceremony in order to
become a monk if he is happy with the way we demonstrate
discipline through cleanliness.

Nobuhiro manages Ekoin, one of the 52 temples which provide

lodgings for guests travelling to the area for different reasons.
Some are believers, some are seekers and others come to escape
modern day life.
I conduct the interview in the Shukubos computer room.
Nobuhiro is a busy man and he excuses himself at various points
during the interview as he deals with guests arriving at his office
to ask questions. He is gracious and humble when explaining the
concepts of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism practiced in the area.

The purpose of the fire ritual is to expiate ones sins with a

flame of Buddhas wisdom. We throw many offerings into
the flame to ask Buddha for salvation.

In my case, I knew somebody in the temple. Its important to

have connections, whether that is a family connection or (as
in my case) friendship.

[Laughs] No, that is not the way it works. When I made the
decision to become a monk, I was asked to be a cleaner for
the temple, thats how we all start off. The idea is that if you
cannot clean a room, then you dont have the right character
to be a good person.

For example, I am handed a business card during our first meeting.

There are Ekoin T-shirts for sale outside the administrative office
of the Shukubo which are surprisingly tastefully designed. (I am i
nformed that a tattoo artist friend was responsible for the
artwork). Nobuhiro also offers night tours of Okunoin, a renowned
cemetery in Koyasan that holds the remains of Japans most
revered and attracts visitors from other parts of the Japan and the
world.

What is the purpose of the Fire Ritual?

How do you become a monk, what is the

process?

Nobuhiro and I make light conversation as he informs me of the

dining arrangements and books me in for the afternoon
meditation session. I am immediately taken by his friendly down
to earth manner as he tells me that he has recently given up
smoking.

I find out during my stay that Nobuhiro studied Marketing and

Business in Japan before he decided to become a monk and I can
see a subtle integration of this influence throughout the temple.

Name: Nobuhiro Tamura

Age: 31
Occupation:Manager of Ekoin
and Monk

What made you decide to become a monk?

All of the monks here come from a family who were also
monks, so there is generational influence in their presence
here. Im a little different as none of my family were monks.

How many Monks are there at Ekoin?

At the moment there are 10.

Describe your daily routine

We are all up at 6.00am to take part in a ceremony for

Buddha. This is specifically about being thankful for
sentient beings. After this point, we start the fire ritual and
have breakfast.
We then check out our guests and clean the whole lodge
by hand. Sometimes we have Japanese guests who want to

take part in a special ceremony dedicated to their ancestors, so

we chant at around midday. After this point we check in our new
guests.

Ekoins Daily Morning Fire Ceremony

The ritual has a cleansing effect on a psychological and
spiritual level removing negative energies. The ritual is also
performed for making requests and giving blessings.

Tell me a little bit about the history of Ekoin

and Koyasan

This temple has an 1100 year history and Koyasan has a 1200
year history. The town was originally only for
practising monks before the Shukubo (temples which
offer accommodation for guests) officially started in the 14th
century. At this point, noble people and emperors began to
come here in order to gain power. For example, if rain was
needed in the locality, the monks trained the aristocracy to
manifest different conditions by asking the gods.
After a time, believers in the discipline were invited. There
are 117 temples in Koyasan and 52 Shukubos. There used
to be over 7000 temples in this area a long time ago, but
due to fires, this number has gradually decreased over the
centuries.

What is special about Koyasan?

We have a unique culture here which is reflected in the town.

Koyasan has a small population of around 3300 people, of
which 1000 are monks and this area is the main centre in
Japan for Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. I think the form of
Buddhism practised here definitely has an impact on the culture of the area. Koyasan is special to me because I
enjoy nature and really appreciate the seasons. I eat well

which means I have a healthy life and have the opportunity

to meet different people from around the world when they
come to stay at our temple.

Koyasan is about to celebrate its 1200

anniversary this year. This sounds like a big
deal, tell me a little about what you will be
doing to mark the occasion?
We will acknowledge this important milestone from 2 April
until 21 May. This is going to be a very busy time for us and
we are expecting a lot of visitors here in Koyasan. There will
be lots of ceremonies in the Dajan Garan Complex,
Kongobuji and Okunoin and all the monks here are
preparing to come together for this.

Im a little worried about the amount of traffic that will come

into the area during this time, but Im sure that everything
will go well.

What is Shingon Buddhism?

Shingon Buddhism was started by Kobo Daishi and is a form

of Esoteric Buddhism. The practice of Buddhism in Japan is
a mix of Shinto and Buddhism. Shinto has older origins,
different gods for different purposes and is connected with
the concept of nature being a spiritual force. Buddhism has
a number of different practices and traditions and is
centred on the teachings of Buddha.
The 2 practices have fused to create the Buddhism that is
predominantly practiced in Japan today. You could say
that Shingon Buddhism embraces the middle way. (This is
about taking the path of moderation), for us, everything is
connected and has a different job to do.
Shingon Buddhism originally started in East Asia and
comes from the Vajrayana lineage. The teachings spread
from India to China and Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai)
travelled to China to learn this form of Buddhism. Shingon
is a translation of the Chinese word Zhenyan which means
True Words which also translates as mantra in Sanskrit.
We also believe that there is good and bad and that there
are 2 sides to everyone and everything- for example, evil
people can become good people and nothing has a
definite shape.

We try to do good things and help people.

Importantly, the practice of Shingon Buddhism
is centred on the belief that we can achieve
enlightenment right now whilst we are living.

One of Kobo Daishis important teachings says that

everything is neither born nor unborn. We do not hold the
view that we have to go without, or that we should live a life
cut off from the rest of society. Its acceptable for us to have
desires- for example, we are allowed to get married, have fun
and drink in moderation. (Though some monks choose not
to do this), however we do have special times when we
practice asceticism and this is an important part of our
training. We also believe in reincarnation.

So you believe that we come back again after

our current life?
Not exactly. For us reincarnation is about passing down
good or bad things, for example if our mother or fathers do
good things this is passed onto their children, equally if they
do bad things this can also be passed on.

Buddhism is very different. We believe in lots of Gods and

each god represents something different. For us this means
that there is potentially less debate over what one god
does. Everything has a different job to do and we embrace
this.

What were you doing before you decided to

become a monk?

I was a record promoter-specifically house, techno, pop

and underground hip hop selling records and organising
gigs. I was the only one who could speak English, so I was
tasked with bookings. I also studied at Manchester
University.

Do you meet with other monks from

different temples?
Yes all the time. We practice the same sutras, even though
different temples may have different policies. We have
special ceremonies and pray together on a regular basis.

Are there other schools practising this form

of Buddhism internationally?
Yes, we have schools in Los Angeles, Seattle, Hawaii,
Taiwan, Canada, Thailand and Europe. We are a community
and we communicate with these schools.

We also travel between prefectures in Japan and let people

know about the form of Buddhism we practice here,

One of Kobo Daishis

teachings state that
everything is neither
born nor unborn.

Where is the nun who used to reside at Ekoin?

Oh, she married one of the monks here!

How has becoming a monk changed you?

Im a better person. I have more discipline and eat well.

Finally, a lot of people undertake

pilgrimages to Koyasan and visit your
temple, perhaps seeking some form of
enlightenment. What advice would you give
people who are seeking something different,
or who want to incorporate Buddhism into
their daily lives?

I think a lot of people are so busy that they do not have time
to stop and think. Life can be hectic, especially city life. We
practice and teach meditation here and its important that
people take time out of their day (even if it is just a few
minutes) to clear their mind. That would be my advice.

Isnt that similar to the concept of Karma?

Western people like to talk about reincarnation and

karma. I know they are famous words, but these words are
from Exoteric Buddhism. We focus on the life we have now
rather than life after death. We might say evil passions
rather than karma. We dont think its important to discuss
life after death because we focus on how we live right now. I
would say - after I am dead, I just lose my body so I become
something invisible you call it soul, we call it Buddha.

Ive read that people believe that Kobo Daishi

is still alive. Do they mean in the literal sense
or that his teachings live on in Koyasan?
Good Question. People believe both. His teachings are
obviously still alive in our community.

What do you believe?

[Smiles] When I pray I can hear him speak to me.

What do you think about the concept of one

Supreme Being One God?

Koyasan-1200 Anniversary

What did you study at University?

I looked at how music affects hormones, specifically

testosterone levels. This was about 12 years ago, so I have a
vague memory of my studies. I also studied marketing and
business in Japan.

Thats really interesting, because at the time

you were studying at Manchester, you had
no intention of becoming a monk, even
though your studies at that time reflect an
interest in something alternative.
Right

Nobuhiro has compiled a small booklet

containing some of Kobo Daishis
teachings. It is available for sale at Ekoin.
A painting of Kobo Daishi

Are women allowed to become monks?

Yes. We have previously had women at Ekoin who have be

come monks (actually referred to as nuns) and they have the
same responsibilities and training as us. Women are also
expected to shave their heads but we do give them the option to cut a small amount of hair if they wish. Actually, one
of our female cooks is currently thinking about becoming a
nun. There are also schools here in Koyasan especially for
nuns.

Esoteric Buddhism is a portal

that transcends all space in
an instant
With it, you can surely attain
Buddha-hood whilst you are
alive

About Koyasan
Koyasan is the epicentre of Shingon
Buddhism in Japan. Located 800m above
sea level, the area was founded by
Kobo Daishi in 816 after a search for the
perfect place to practice and teach Shingon
Buddhism.

Koyasan has undergone many changes over

the centuries, however Kobo Daishis
teachings continue to live on and remain at
the heart of the small community residing
there.
Password
Ekoin

Day 10

Leaving Koyasan

KOYASAN

I didnt want to leave Koyasan.

Purposefully missing 2 buses, I wait at the bus stop
looking around for the last time.
As I say goodbye to Koyasan, I feel strangely elated
and lifted... I carry this feeling with me as I move
on to the next part of my journey.