UNIVERSITY OF PERPETUAL HELP

SYSTEM DALTA CALAMBA

WORKSHOP THEORY AND

PRACTICE LAB

SUBMITTED BY : QUITO , BRYAN N.

SUBMITTED TO : MR. MOSQUERA

WOOD WORKING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

The Shop-Vac

You may not think of a shop vac as a woodworking tool, but just try to get any work done with your saws
kicking up powdery sawdust into your eyes. Now, you can go all out, and get a built in vacuum system
installed. This is much like the home vacuums that have outlets in every room of the house. You just take a
hose with you from one room to the other, plug it in, and the vacuum does its job, taking everything to the
central vacuum receptacle.
While this may be a dream scenario, the more realistic version is the portable shop vac. You can use one of
your handy clamps listed previously and clamp the hose to your saw, vacuuming up the sawdust as its made.
This keeps your cutting line clear and unobstructed. If you choose a wet/dry vac, youre getting even more for
your money. Be sure to get one with enough amps in the motor. Low amps in these small motors usually mean
low power, and you want it to work as hard as you do.

The Bench Grinder

Get a good bench grinder. It doesnt have to be in the way you can make a stand for it and keep it in the
corner. But youll be amazed at how much youll use a bench grinder. Youve got to keep all of your chisels
sharp, and keep the burrs off of your screwdrivers, too. A grinder doesnt cost that much, and the time and
expense it saves you when you have dull tools will pay for itself in no time.

The Circular Saw

A good circular saw is one of the most versatile tools you can own. Most people consider the circular saw to be
a carpentry tool, but combined with proper clamping of your materials, they are just as accurate as any table
saw. Plus, you can use a circular saw for tasks that you could never attempt with a table saw. It makes a lot
more sense to set up a couple of saw horses and get out the circular saw to cut a sheet of plywood or MDF than
to try to maneuver around in your shop to cut them on a table saw. A high-quality circular saw should be the
first power tool in your shop.
All of your saws will have options on how many teeth-per-inch, or TPI you use. To make your decision, you
need to know what you are striving for with a cut. A saw blade with a lot of teeth will make smoother cuts.
However, you run the risk of burning your wood. This is because a fine-toothed saw moves more slowly
through the stock. It also doesnt clear the sawdust out of the cut as quickly, since the gaps between the teeth
are smaller. These gaps are called gullets, and on fine-toothed saws, numerous small gullets hold more sawdust
than the bigger gullets on a wide-toothed saw. The wide-toothed saws will aggressively buzz through your
stock with less burning, but the cut will be rougher, probably requiring refinement with your orbital sander or
jointer.
As a general rule of thumb, you should keep a selection of blades for your saws. Your circular saw and table
saw, as well, can make rough cuts with a 40-tooth saw blade, and plywoods and other laminated materials will
work well with an 80-tooth saw blade.
If you know that the blades of your saws are right, but are still having trouble getting the cut you want, the
moisture content of your stock may be wrong. Wood that has a moisture content level that is too high for your
area will feather when its cut, regardless of the size or sharpness of the blades. Wood that is too dry will
crack and split when you cut it. If it seems that no matter what you do to your saws, you still dont get
satisfactory cuts, use your moisture meter to check the moisture content levels of your stock.

The Power Drill

The next power tool you should purchase is a power drill. Now, many people swear by cordless drills, but
theyre more expensive, and they cant do everything that an electric drill can do thats where the term
power comes in. Power drills are not as expensive, and theyre more powerful than cordless drills, which do
have their place in your shop. The steady power that comes with a corded drill makes it a better tool for
extended use, especially when using large bits such as paddle bits.
Most power drills are variable speed, with 2 speeds to choose from. When you select a power drill, youll
choose which sized chuck you want 3/8 or . This will determine the size of bit you can use. If you
anticipate the need for larger drill bits, such as for lag bolts used in decking, you may want the drill. They
also have more power. Typically, both chucks accommodate the smallest diameter whether you use a keyless
chuck or not. Some people swear by keyless chucks, others find that they occasionally loosen. Others find that
keyed chucks loosen. Its up to you.

The Sabre Saw

Every woodworker should have a sabre saw. Often called a jigsaw, it will allow you to cut curves and patterns
in your stock materials. Youll probably need an electric one, rather than a battery-operated, although the
battery-powered sabre saws work fine on thin material and for limited use. You need to find one that fits your
hand. Too small, and you cant grip it; too large, and you cant control it. For thicker materials, youll need a
band saw, which well cover later.

The Palm Sander

A good palm sander is vital to any woodworkers power tool collection. The palm sander will use sheet of
sanding paper, and is small enough to get into tight places. However, you should be careful not to sand patterns
into your finished work with the palm sander. They usually move in a circular pattern, or back and forth.
Either way, they can leave swirls and streaks in your wood that show up once it is stained, so be sure to keep it
moving across the surface you are sanding so that you dont sand grooves into your wood.

The Random Orbital Sander

A random orbital sander is actually a step up from the little brother version the palm sander. The random
orbital sander uses hook and loop (Velcro) to fasten the sanding disks to the sanding pad. The random
movement of the disk helps to avoid sanding patterns into your wood. Your main precaution with this tool is to
make sure that your hardware supply store has discs in stock in every grit. Otherwise, youll have a sander that
you cant use because you cant find sanding pads for it.

The Table Saw

Now, we start getting into the first permanent fixture in your woodworking shop the table saw. Of course,
table saws can be loaded in the bed of your truck, so, technically, theyre portable. But, the table saw is not one
you can pick up with one hand and head to the worksite. The table saw will be the workhorse of your shop, so
get a good one. Youll use it to rip, miter, shape, square, groove, and join, so a good saw that suits your needs
is vital.
The work surface should be heavy duty to withstand the abuse it will take. Look for a handle to raise and lower
the saw blade easily. It should have another handle so that you can adjust the angle of the blade. See if there
are connections for a dust collector, too, to make that aspect easier. Youll want your table saw to have enough
power to cut through hard wood and make deep cuts. Again, look at amps and horsepower. The motor should
start with little to no vibration and run smoothly. Make sure it has a blade guard and that the on/off switch is
easy to reach. These days, the power switch is a paddle that is easily pressed with you knee if you need an
emergency off.
The blades for your table saw are in the same categories as the hand saws: rip and crosscut. The rip blades have
deep gullets. The crosscut blade has a kerf, or extra cutting chisels, on every tooth, on alternating sides. This
produces a very fine cut surface. Rip blades are designed to cut with the grain of the wood, as you rip stock.
Crosscut blades can cut either with or against the grain. The most commonly-purchased blades are combination
blades, ranging from 24 TPI to 80 TPI.
As pitch from the wood you cut accumulates on your saw blades, youll need to pause and take time to clean
them off. The pitch will heat up as you use the blade, and overheat the blade, damaging it. There are a number
of commercial cleaners available, but you can just soak them in oven cleaner. This will dissolve the pitch, with
only a little rubbing. Do not use any abrasives on your saw blades. Scrubbing cleansers and rough pads will
leave scratches on the blade, which will only hold more pitch, making the problem worse the next time you
need
to
clean
the
blade.
All saw blades dull over time, but your circular saw and table saw blades can be resharpened, if they are
carbide. Since carbide blades are more expensive, this feature makes the blade more cost-effective, since
sharpening will prolong the life of the blade.
Your drill press will have a platform for the stock you are drilling, but your table saw will have well a
table. There are a few precautions you should take with each of the tables you use with your saws and drills.
These tables are usually made of cast iron. Cast iron rusts easily. It will come with a special grease that
protects the surface during storage. Youll need to clean the grease off of the surface, and apply a protectant in
its place that wont stain your stock or be a fire hazard. Possibly the best product for this is simple car wax.
Carnauba wax protects your car from harsh elements, and will do the same for your table. Just be very sure that
you dont use silicone wax, because the residue interferes with the finish on certain woods.

The Rip Fence

Your table saw should have a rip fence. Youll want one with fine-tuning adjustment that runs parallel to the
blade. Some rip fences have an adjustment knob on each end of the fence, others on just one end. The main
thing to look for is torque. When you move the fence, do both ends move evenly, or does the far end hand up?
This can be a real problem, and youll save yourself a lot of frustration and stock lumber if you have a rip
fence that stays parallel to the cutting blade.

The Miter Gauge

Look for a T-groove miter gauge on your table saw. While most saws have a built-in miter gauge, it may move
out of the groove when youre making your cuts. The gauge needs to slide smoothly in its grooves without
being loose.

SAFETY USES AND RULES :

1.

Only use woodworking machines and tools you have knowledge of or have been trained to use.

2.

Always read and understand the owners manual prior to using a tool or piece of equipment.

3.

Always wear safety equipment such as goggles, face shields, dust masks, and hearing protection
appropriate for the type of tool or equipment being used.

4.

Dress appropriately. Do not wear gloves, ties, scarves, loose fitting clothing or jewelry around moving
equipment. Also, do not wear sandals, open toed shoes, or go barefoot in the shop. Only wear gloves
temporarily when handling or stacking rough lumber for storage purposes.

5.

Avoid distractions at all times. Do not listen to a radio. If you must converse with another person, first
turn off the equipment you are using.

6.

Keep the working area and floor clean and free of wood scraps, clutter, oil spills, etc. Always use a
brush to clean off sawdust or wood scraps from the machine or work area being used.

7.

Make sure the safety guards are in position and operating properly for all equipment used.

8.

Do not stand in water or use any electrical equipment in the rain or any inclement weather.

9.

Be sure all equipment is properly grounded before use.

10.

11.

Always use the correct tools and equipment for the job. Never use a tool or attachment on a machine
for which it was not designed.
Always check stock for nails, screws, staples, loose knots or other defects before using.

12.

Before plugging in a machine, make sure the switch is in the off position. Also make sure the on/off
switch is within a convenient reach.

13.

Keep the power cords away from equipment while operating. Also, electrical cords should not be
strung across the floor to prevent tripping. If possible, install power cords or wiring overhead or under the
floor. If an extension cord must be used, be sure that it has the correct wire size and has a ground plug.

14.

Concentrate on the work at hand at all times. Do not day dream and keep your hands and fingers at a
safe distance from blades and any rotating parts while working.

15.

Always use a push stick to push the stock into the cutting area whenever possible.

16.

Always clamp stock securely when cutting, sanding or drilling.

17.

Never make an adjustment with the power on. If possible unplug the machine when changing blades,
bits, etc.

18.
19.

Make sure all blades, bits, drills, etc. are sharp and in good working condition before using.
Lighting is important. Clearly reading scales and measuring devices, plus visualizing blades, bits,
drills, and the cut lines on wood stock is imperative.

20.

Do not use a machine until it is running at full speed.

21.

Never walk away from a machine while it is still running. Turn off the power and wait until it has
come to a full stop.

22.

If a machine does not sound right, there are unusual smells emitted, or smoke is visible, turn the
machine off immediately and check for the problem before reusing.

23.

Avoid unsafe operations where a sudden slip could cause your hand to move into a blade or cutting
tool.

24.
25.

26.

Make sure the floor space is clean and clear of debris or spills that could cause an accident.
If possible, do not stand directly behind any stock being cut, planed, or jointed. In the event of a kickback, serious injury could result.
Keep all machines, equipment, and tools clean, oiled, sharpened, and in good repair.

27.

Keep used oily and stained rags in a covered metal container. This will help prevent spontaneous
combustion.

28.

Keep an ABC class fire extinguisher in a convenient location. The ABC class will extinguish all
classes of fires.

29.

Discard or sharpen dull blades, cutters, chisels, drill bits, lathe tools, etc. Dull tools may not provide
the quality of work desired and could result in accidents.

30.

Keep lumber stored in a safe and dry place. Lumber should never be stored near equipment or
working areas.

31.

Use a wooden box to store cut-off material, or small stock that could be used for future projects.

32.
33.

If possible, us an exhaust ventilation system to remove sawdust and chips from the machines.
Never us drugs, alcohol, or medication that would impair vision or judgment in a woodshop
environment.