Textile Internship Report

Textile Internship Report
Aditya Birla Nuvo-Jaya Shree Textiles

Bachelor of Fashion Technology
(2014-2018)
Internees:
Industry Mentor:
Meezan Alam (BFT/14/1504)
Mr Manoj. R. Kumar
Shivani Sneha (BFT/14/169)
DGM-Processing
Semester-V
Mr Rajesh. K. Nair
NIFT Kolkata
DGM-Quality Assurance
Academic Mentor:
Prof. Bibekananda Banerjee
NIFT Kolkata
Page | 0
Table of Content
Serial
No
Page
No
Topic
Acknowledgement
Internship Objective
10
Introduction to the Industry

Jaya Shree Textiles
Company Profile
Organisation Structure
Linen-An Introduction to Flax Fiber
12
16
19
42
57
Remarks
Cultivating, Harvesting and

Preparation of Fiber
Design and Development
Spinning
Raw Material
Sorting
Hackling
Drawing
Roving
Bleaching
Ring Spinning
Radio Frequency Dryer
Winding
Packing
Weaving
Yarn segregation
Warping
Drawing
Gaiting
Weaving
Pre-Treatment Process
Singeing cum Desizing
Continuous Bleaching Range
Page | 1
10
64
11
86
12
99
13
119
14
129
Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing
Package Dyeing
Hank Dyeing
Hydro Extraction
Radio Frequency Drier
Piece Dyeing
Pad-Batch Dyeing(Exhaust
Dyeing)
Jig Dyeing
Jet Dyeing
Semi-Continuous Dyeing
Kustrers Cold Pad Batch Dyeing
Continuous Dyeing
Finishing
Stenter
Calendering
Sanforizing
Folding
Rotormat
Quality Control
Physical Lab
Dyeing Quality Department
Testing
Warehouse
Inspection of Grey Fabric
Warehouse Machines at Jaya
Shree Textiles
Inspection of Finishes Fabric
and Packaging
Yarn Packaging
Learning Interesting Facts
15
134
Bibliography
Page | 2
Acknowledgement
The internship opportunity we had from National Institute of Fashion
Technology was a great chance for learning and professional
development. We consider ourselves as very lucky individuals as we
were provided with an opportunity to be a part of it. It gives us great
pleasure in acknowledging the support and help of our departmental
faculty Mr. Jyoti Prakash Behera who constantly helped us in getting
our internship confirmed at Jaya Shree Textiles.
We thank Ms. Sritapa Bera for guiding us through the HR processes
and accepting our request to learn as an intern at this prestigious
Industry.
It is with immense gratitude that I acknowledge the support and help
of our Academic Mentor Prof. Bibekananda Banerjee. His throughout
consideration and sincere guidance helped us covering up each and
every topic for the successful completion of this Internship Report.
We owe our deepest gratitude to our Industry mentors Mr Manoj. R.
Kumar, (DGM-Processing Department) as well as Mr Rajesh Nair,
(DGM-Quality Control Department) for the valuable guidance,
advice, useful comments, remarks and engagement throughout the
learning process of this project and sharing his precious time with us
during the internship.
I would like to thank Mr. Krishan Chobey and Mr. Partho for
explaining us about the topics from time to time which gave us the
possibility to complete this report.
Last but not the least we deeply appreciate the guidance provided by
the operators and staffs at Jaya Shree Textiles who were a helping
hand at every next step.
Thank you Jaya Shree Textiles.
Page | 3
Internship Objective
To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric
production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile
testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for
commercial purpose.
To develop an understanding of the basic concept of Quality and
PPC.
To analyse the Hazard, Inspection, Risk and Assessment for the
processing machines.
To learn the SOP (Standard Operating Process) of machines
available at the Industry
Page | 4
Jaya Shree Textiles

The incredible fabric Linen is the oldest fabric woven on earth. The human
civilisation reached a pinnacle of achievement when Linen was discovered.
Linen has a wealth of properties that almost no other natural fabric can boast of.
It has retraced the history of this astounding garment of Mother Nature. We
shall come across the glimpses of glory and elegance that defines the erstwhile
royal fabric once adorning the monarchs of the world. It was the Egyptian who
first discovered the Flax plant from which Linen was woven. The ancient
Egyptians believed that Linen was a gift of God and regarded it as sacred.
Although the world has seen much by the 20th century, this incredible fabric was
first brought to India by Jaya Shree Textiles in the year 1949. This was the first
time any major investment was made in terms of Linen in the Indian subcontinent. Sourcing the raw fibres from Belgium and France. Jaya Shree
Textiles manufactures linen under the brand Linen Club.
Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre. Their natural colour ranges between
shades of ivory, ecru, tan or grey. Linen is a natural breathing fabric that is
naturally antibacterial. When freed from impurities Linen is highly absorbent
and will quickly remove perspiration from skin. It also feels cool to the touch.
As a natural cover from the sun, Linen is UV-protective. Linen is also the
strongest of the vegetable fibres that is 3 times as much stronger than cotton.
Linen is still a very fashionable fabric as it was in the oldest of times adding to
the range of natural Linen material.
Linen Club offers Linen in the variants of Linen with Cotton, Linen with
Rayon, Stretch Linen, Linen modal, Linen silk. Fashion designers around the
world are captivated by the fluidity of Linen and the way it can be draped and
styled as a garment. At Linen Club, renowned Italian designer Mario Talli
Nencioni, Raffaela Palmieri are the head of designing and inspiring a group of
designers. Each season is updated with the latest in fashion in terms of design,
colour and product development. The retail presence extends widely across
India.
Linen is a fabric that if taken care of will last a life time.
Page | 5
Company Profile
NAME OF COMPANY
JAYA SHREE TEXTILES
ADDRESS
HEAD OFFICE & PRODUCTION UNIT

Jaya Shree textiles
Aditya Birla Nuvo Limited
PO: Prabhasnagar 712249
Dist. Hooghly, West Bengal, India
PHONE NO.
+91-33-2672 1146
WEBSITES
adityabirla_abnl.com/www.linenclub.org
FAX NO.
+91-33-2672 2626
PRODUCT TYPE
suiting, shirting and dress materials
TOTAL WORKERS
8000
STAFF PROFILE
Foreman
Sr. Foreman 1%
0%
Asst
11%
Sr. Asst
8%
MT GET President Sr. VP

2% GM
0%
0% 1%
3%
DGM
4%
AGM
4% Sr. Mgr
4%
Mgr
8%
Dy. Mgr
4%
Asst. Officer
18%
Asst. Mgr
8%
Officer
12%
Sr. Officer
12%
Page | 6
Achievements
1997 Award for excellence in Human Resource Management by ICMFs
Birla Economic Textile Research Foundation
2000 Chairmans Bronze Award for Manufacturing Excellence by
Corporate World Class Manufacturing
2001 Golden Peacock National Quality Award in the Manufacturing
(Large Units) Category by the Institute of Directors (IOD)
2002 Chairmans Silver Award for Manufacturing Excellence by
Corporate World Class Manufacturing
2002 Export Performance Awards year after year (1981 and onwards)
2003 HRD awards Certificate of Appreciation by CII (ER)
2003 National Energy Conservation Award in Textile Sector FIRST
2004 National Energy Conservation award in Textile Sector SECOND
2004 Second Prize in textile sector, National Energy conservation Award
given by the ministry of power, government of India
2008 Performance Excellence Trophy Ramakrishna Bajaj Quality
Award
Page | 7
Certification
ISO 9001: 2008, ISO 14001: 2004, OHSAS 18001: 2007 and SA 8000: 2008
certified Company Jaya Shree Textiles meets all the regulatory and statutory
norms like Environment & Pollution Control, Safety Systems, and Care for
Society, maintaining all the Social Standards and Quality norms. Safety
committee looks into compliance of all safety regulations. Other regulations
such as pollution control, environment control, etc. are compiled by establishing
Environment Management System as per ISO 14001 standards. A certified
Audit Farm carries out financial audit and the report circulated to all
shareholders.
Last but not the least the company has achieved a Six-Sigma Classification.
Mission
To be a preferred supplier of wool tops, flax yarns, worsted yarns & fabrics to
chosen market segments and provide total customer satisfaction through thrust
on cost, quality, speed and innovation
Page | 8
Organisation Structure
The unit is headed by Mr. S. Krishnamoorthy, who is the President Textile. The
company has 4 strategic business units which are further segregated according
to the supporting functions required.
The Spinning, Processing and Weaving department have their own structure
such as:
Page | 9
Linen-An Introduction to
Flax Fiber
Linen is a textile material made from the bast fibres of the flax plant (fig1.1),
Linum usitatissimum. Flax is an annual plant, which means it only lives for one
growing season. From seed-planting, it is ready to be harvested in about a
hundred days. Unless the weather is particularly warm and dry, flax requires
little watering or attention during
this time. It grows to about three or
four feet tall, with glossy
bluishgreen leaves and pale blue
flowers.
The flax fiber is composed
basically of the substance,
cellulose. Linen is usually an
expensive textile, and is produced
in relatively small quantities. It has
a long "staple" (individual fiber
length) relative to cotton and other
natural fibre.
Figure 1.1 Flax Plant
PROPERTIES OF LINEN:
Strength: 5.5-6.5 g/d. Linen
is durable and 2-3 times
stronger than cotton.
Moisture Regain: 10 -12 %
Elongation: Low (3%)
Abrasion resistance: Low
Thermal conductivity: Fair
Dimensional stability: Poor
Elasticity: Poor elasticity
Figure1.2 Microscopic view of Linen
and does not spring back
readily, explaining why it wrinkles so easily
Page | 10
Resilience: It has little resilience therefore it wrinkles a lot but there is a

wrinkle resilience treatment for the fabric.
Drapability: Linen has more body than cotton and drapes somewhat
better.
Heat Conductivity: Linen is most suitable for summer apparel as it
allows the heat of the body to escape.
Absorbency: It absorbs moisture and dries more quickly than cotton. It is
therefore excellent for handkerchiefs and towels.
Cleanliness and Wash ability: Linen launders well and gives up strains
readily; its softness is enhanced by repeated washings.
Reaction to Bleaches Linen doesnt stain as readily as cotton, its more
difficult to bleach as well.
Shrinkage Linen doesnt shrinks more. it shrinks less than cotton.
Effect of Heat Linen scorches and flames in a manner similar to cotton.
Effect of Light Linen is more resistant to light than cotton, but it will
gradually deteriorate from protracted exposure.
Resistance to Mildew Linen is vulnerable to mildew.
Resistance to Insects Linen is not damaged by moths. Damage by other
insects is uncommon.
Reaction to Alkalis Linen, like cotton, is highly resistant to alkalis.
Linen may also be mercerized.
Reaction to Acids Linen is damaged by hot dilute acids and cold
concentrated acids but not by cold dilute acids.
Affinity for Dyes Linen doesnt have good affinity for dyes.
Resistance to perspiration Acid perspiration will deteriorate linen.
Alkali perspiration will not cause deterioration but it either case
discoloration.
Exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.
It has a long "staple" (individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other
natural fibers.
The natural color of flax varies from light ivory to tan color.
Fiber length varies between 2 36.
Linen fabrics are lint free because there are no short fibers.
Page | 11
Cultivating, Harvesting
and Preparation of Fiber
There are three processes involved for the production of Linen Fiber
Cultivation
Harvesting
Preparation of the fibre
Cultivating: The flax plant requires deep, rich, well ploughed soil and a cool,
damp climate. Warm weather affects the growth and the quality of the fiber.
Harvesting: When the flax turns brownish in color, which indicates that the
plant is about to mature, it is ready for harvesting. There must be no delay at
this stage; otherwise the fiber will lose its prized luster and soft texture. The
stalks are tied in bundles, called beets.
Preparation of The Fiber:
Pulling- Flax fiber is pulled by hand or by mechanical pullers to keep the roots
intact. If flax is cut, the fibers become permanently discoloured. Harvesting
occurs in late August when the plant is a rich golden brown colour.
Rippling- After drying, the flax is rippled. The seeds and the leaves are removed
from the stems of the flax plant by passing the stalks through coarse combs.
Retting- The bundles of plants are then steeped in water so that the tissue or
woody bark surrounding the hair like flax fiber will decompose, thus loosening
the gum that hold the fiber to the stem.
Following are the three different kinds of retting:
Dew retting
Vat or mechanical retting
Chemical retting
Page | 12
Dew retting:
It involves the spreading of flax on the ground, where it is exposed to the
action of dew and sunlight.
The natural method of retting gives uneven results but provides the
strongest and most durable linen.
It requires a long period of time.
Average exposure time is 4-6 weeks. Pool retting:
It is a process in which flax is packed in sheaves and immersed in pools
of stagnant water.
Bacteria develop in water and rot away the stalk covering.
After retting the water is drained away and flax is dried.
Pool retting requires 2-4 weeks.
Vat, or Mechanical, Retting:
It requires the stalks to be submerged in vats of warm water, hastening the
decomposition of the stem. The flax is then removed from the vats and passed
between rollers to crush the bark as clean water flushes away the pectin and
other impurities. This method used primarily in Belgium, France, Northern
Ireland, and the United States. Linen produced by this method is more
susceptible to mildew.
Chemical retting:
Most manufacturers use chemicals for retting. The plants are placed in a
solution either of alkali or oxalic acid, then pressurized and boiled. This method
is easy to monitor and rather quick. Chemical retting adversely affects the color
and strength of the fiber.
After the retting process, the flax plants are squeezed and allowed to dry out
before they undergo the process called breaking.
(Different kinds of retting affects the color and the quality of flax or linen)
Breaking- The stalk becomes partially separated from the fiber when the wet
plants are placed in the fields to dry. In order to crush the decomposed stalks,
they are sent through fluted rollers which break up the stem and separate the
exterior fibers from the bast that will be used to make linen. This process breaks
the stalk into small pieces of bark called shives.
Scutching- The scutching machine of removes the broken shives by means of
rotating wooden paddles, thus finally releasing the flax fiber from the stalk.
Page | 13
Combing- The simple combing process straightens the flax fibers, separates the
shorter from the long staple, and leaves the longer fibers in parallel formation.
The very finest flax fibers are called line or dressed flax, and the fibers may be
anywhere from 12-20 in (30.5-51 cm) in length.
Carding- The short-staple flax fibers, called tow are used for the spinning of
irregular linen yarns. Tow is put through a carding operation, similar to the
carding of cotton staple, which straightens the fibers and forms into a silver
ready for spinning into yarn.
The long-staple fibers are used for fine linens. These are called line, sometimes
dressed flax. Line fibers are from 12 to 20 inches (30-50cm) in length.
Page | 14
The Brain of the Industry
Page | 15
Design & Development

Design and Development department in Jaya Shree Textiles has a significant
part in the production. It works in two segments- RMG/Export and OTC.
Between these two 65% of total production happens in OTC and 35% in RMG.
The SAP software is used here in Design and Development department.
Flow Chart of Design and Development

Process
Design and Development
RMG/Export
OTC
No
Sampling
Department
Buyer
Is the
sample
Correct?
Yes
Bulk Production
Page | 16
RMG (party buyer)

In this part the company produces according to the order placed by buyers.
Different buyers places order of fabric and according to the order the design
department first prepares the specification sheet. Then it is sent to the sampling
department, where sample is prepared for the respective order.
Then it is sent to the Buyer for approval of the sample. If it is approved by the
buyer then bulk production takes place. And if any changes are required
according to the buyer then the design department makes the changes and again
it is sent to the buyer. Then after receiving approval from the buyer bulk
production takes place.
The quality of the fabric depends on the order placed by the buyer.
OTC (over the counter)

In this part production takes place for retail buyer and for Linen Club. The
design department prepares design for the different seasons according to the
survey by the fashion forecasters. A famous Italian designer Mr. Mario visits
the company every three months and provides his adequate knowledge about
recent global fashion (mainly European). According to all these the design
department prepares the Specification Sheet and it is sent to the sampling
department. After the sample is made it is sent to the design department and
when it approved by the design department mass production for the respective
design takes place.
Quality of the fabric produced for OTC most- 60L, 40L, and 25L.
Jayashree textiles has a very well developed design studio at linen club.
Renowned Italian Designer Mr Mario Talli Nencioni and Raffaela Palmieri
are at the helm of leading and inspiring creative design team. The studio is fully
equipped with latest textile design. Here, Texcad is used for the development
of designs; SAP system has been also installed for data storage and ease of
access.
Designers over here prepare designs according to the market trends and
forecasts. Every collection includes thousands of designs, color ways and
textures.
Apart from that, the brand Linen Club has various elite designers who have
worked with the label Mr.Rohit Bal, the famous international designer has
always been the face and soul of the brand. Other than him there have been
other people who have shared their talents with the group. They are: Rohit
Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, TarunTahilani, Ritu Kumar, Priyadarshani Rao,
Sabyasachee Mukherjee, Rocky S and many more.
Page | 17
Working Procedure
There are two types of collections launched every year.
They are: Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer. For each season around 1000
new designs are presented by their designers to their retailers, OTC and certain
customers. All the in-house designers frequently meet to discuss, debate and
contemplate the latest trends, fashion, colour in the market and then the
designers put on all their efforts to make their exemplary designs. The outcome
of this process is an exuberant range of master work, which mesmerizes their
customers and thus results in the placement of large no. of orders.
Selection of Designs
The designers first make designs with the help of Texcad, which are then
converted into blankets which contain a combination of maximum 6 colors. The
blanket is sent for weaving outside the factory by some outsourced weavers.
After the blanket is weaved and received by the design department, it is then
shown to the Mr.Abhay Nair Sir, the senior Vice-President of Jaya Shree
Textiles and Mr.Sarnath Sarpute, the Design Head who select and reject the
designs to be constructed on looms. The selected designs are then sent for
making sample cards.
Page | 18
Spinning
Process Flow Chart of Linen Spinning
Raw Material
Flax Fiber from Belgium and
France
Bleaching
Bleach/Boil of Grey Rove
Sorting
Wet Spinning
Bunch making of 100+/-10 gm
Making Yarn from Rove
Hackling
RF Drying
Fiber separation and making

Sliver from bunch
Drying of Wet Yarns
Drawing
Winding
Fiber Parallelization and Fiber

uniformity by doubling and
drafting
Removal of Yarn Faults and

Making Cone/PSPD on Auto
corner
Roving
Packing
Making Rove from Sliver
Packing of Finished Material

(Cone/PSDP)
Page | 19
Raw Material
The raw materials are procured from the western part of Europe. The main
countries that supply the raw fiber are Belgium and France. The flax fibre
comes in two forms:
Fibre
Hackled Sliver
The fibre packages are of two types:
Round 100 kg
Square 200 kg
Hackled sliver also comes in two types of packages:
Round: 150 kg
Square: 600 kg
Sample packages are of 30 kg.
The varieties of the flax procured
generally are:
Suzanne
Maryline
Malina
Alizee
Lorea
Figure 2.1 Fibre packages stored in godown
The fibre packages are stored in two

godowns (fig2.1). Their mixing and
conditioning is done separately.
Bale Opening
In this process, the bale is opened and is
converted to sheet form (fig2.2).
Conditioning
The conditioning of the flax fibres is done
Figure 2.2 Bale opening
by spraying water on the opened bales.
This process is conditioned to improve the
strength of the fibres. This process is done manually like the bale opening.
Page | 20
The workers in the godown divide the round fibre packages into 5-6 parts of 20
kg each. The square package is also divided into two parts weighing 100 kg
each. Fibre weighing 100 kg for both type of packages is delivered to sorting
table, while sliver goes to the drawing section.
Page | 21
Sorting
MANUAL SEGREGATION
Manual segregation is the process of separating the raw fibres that have been
imported, into different bundles according to quality or fineness. As the name
suggests, manual segregation is done manually by workers.
Feed: Raw fibres
Delivery: Manually segregated raw fibre materials (100 +_ 10 grams each
bunch)
Machine used: Perforated table with a suction mechanism under the table
(fig2.3)
Significance of manual segregation:
To segregate or separate raw
fibre materials according to
their fineness or according to
their quality
To clean the raw fibre
materials of all the visible dirt
particles like twigs, leaves,
etc. manually.
Figure 2.3 Manual Segregation
Perforated table:
The perforated table is made up of metal.
It has a perforated section in the middle.
It also has a suction mechanism located under the table just under the
perforated portion of the table.
The workers segregate the fibres over the perforated portion of the table
and the lint and fuzz are sucked down.
Characteristics of the fibres

The fibres are initially cleaned of the visible dirt particles.
The fibres are also cleaned of most of the lint and fuzz that are present.
There are no changes in any other characteristics of the fibres.
Page | 22
Hackling
Hackling is the process of straightening of the raw fibre materials. This process
also helps in cleaning the raw fibre materials and separates the good quality
fibre from the low quality (fig2.3)
(fig2.4).
Feed: Manually segregated fibre
materials
Delivery: Hackled slivers (30 40
gm/m) Long line flax fibre: 60%
Waste: Tow (25% - 30%)
Significance of hackling:
Hackling helps the fibres to
straighten and set in a parallel
way.
It also helps in increasing the
lustre of the fibre.
It is also a way to remove the
impurities from the raw fibre
materials. 28% - 32% of the total
weight of fibre is generated as
waste.
Figure 2.3 Hackling Machine
Figure 2.4 Hackling Machine
SOP of Hackling Machine

Machine name: JAMES MACKIE & SONS LTD BELFAST NO-3473
Make: FLCB, Jamie Mackie
Year of manufacture: 1950, 1965
Total no of machines: 3
Machine parameters:
Hackling height hackling sheet- 760mm
Frequency of opening and closing of hackling sheet- 8-8.5 times/min
Row no of hackling tool on hackling sheet- 24
Page | 23
Length of hackling tool- 12inches (305mm)

Speed of hackling sheet-18-28m/min
Can diameter and height of spreader- 450X1000mm
Delivery roller diameter-101.6mm
Front roller diameter-114.3mm
Overall size of the whole machine- 11700 X 4800 X 3000
Processing capacity: 400 kgs/ shift (4320 bunches)
1. Hackling machine has a feed section, where the manually segregated fibres
are fed into the machine manually.
2. One holder of the hackling machine is fed with two bunches of flax fibres and
combed.
3. It has a conveyor belt system which carries the fibres to the other parts of the
machine.
4. It has three sections containing three types of pins- the first portion has thick
pins that are placed far apart, the second portion has less thicker pins that are
placed much closely placed and the third portion has thinner pins that are placed
very closely together.
5. Each of these sections of pins provides a combing operation on the fibres
such that the fibres are straightened and become parallel.
6. The combing process leaves behind a waste material, tow, at the bottom of
the pinned section of the machine.
7. The hackling machine has a cyclic process and the already combed fibres to
the next pinned sections of the machine that consists of the same arrangement of
pins for the same purpose.
8. The machine has a delivery section that delivers the hackled slivers
automatically to drums that are placed at the delivery portion of the machine.
Characteristics of the fibres

The fibres are straightened and they are mostly paralleled.
The fibres have increased lustre.
The volume of the fibre is decreased.
Page | 24
Gill Box
The objective of gill box (fig2.5) is re-combing of the flax fibres to get finer and
finer output. In the final step, a slight crimp is given by differential speed of
rollers, so that the fibres can stretch during drawing and do not break.
Machine used: Hand Gill Box (NSC)
No. of machines available: 4
Gill box 1: Input-10 ends, Output-1 end
Gill box 2: (Bi-coiler) Input-8x2 ends, Output-1 end (fig2.6)
Gill box 3: Input- 4 ends, Output- 1 end
Gill box 4 (finisher): Input- 5 ends, Output-1 end (providing crimps)
Draft of gill box is calculated by= Input/output
Speed= 1440 nips/min
Figure 2.5 Gill Box
Figure 2.6 Bi-Coiler
Page | 25
Processing of Tow
Carding: Carding may be defined as the process of reduction of an entangled
mass of fibres to a filmy web by working between closely spaced, relatively
moving surfaces clothed with sharp wire points.
Feed: Drawn slivers of tow
Delivery: Carded slivers of tow
Machine used: Flax Joint Carding Machine (FX151E)
Significance of carding
The fibre to fibre separation.
To affect a thorough mixing of fibres.
Removal of dirt particles in the lap or opened flax in the blow room
process.
Conversion of lap or opened flax in the blow room process into sliver
form suitable for further processing.
Figure 2.7 Opening of flax
Carding region
The carding region (fig2.7) consists of workers cylinder, steppers cylinder and
flats. The purpose of cylinder and flats are:
To open the flax completely, even to the separation of one fibre from all
others.
To collect short fibres and dirt and separate them from the longer fibres.
The different cylinders keep giving and taking up tow fibres as until it is
fully opened. After seven such complete cycles, the fibres are aligned.
They are then compressed and 4 outputs are given which are combined
into one final output.
Page | 26
Flow Chart for Tow Processing

Carding
Gill Box 1 (input 8 end/output 1 end)
Bi Coiler (produces two slivers, both

stored in the same drum)
Combing (input 24 ends/output 1 end)

(12 drums)
Gill Box (bi coiler)
Re Combing (To align and straighten

the fiber)
1st Gilling (input 10 ends/output 1 end)
2nd Gilling (input 8 ends/output 1 end)
3rd Gilling (input 4 ends/output 1 end)
Finisher (input 3 ends/output 1 end)
Roving
Page | 27
Draft Count on the Basis of Flow Chart

Formula:
Draft = Input (g/m)
(g/m)
/ Output
1. Carding output: 28 g/ m
2. Gill box 1 input: ( 28 X8 )g/m ( 8 ends become one)
Required output: 25g/m
Thus the required draft in gill box 1 = (28X8)/25= 8.96
3. Bi- coiler = 5 ends produce two ends but in the same drum.
Total input= (5X 25) g/m
Desired output= 18.33g/m
Thus the required draft = (5X25)/18.33= 6.81
4. Combing Feeding = 24 ends (2 from one drum from bi- coiler, i.e. 12 drums)
Total input= (18.33 X 24) g/m = 440 g/m
Combing production(Speed X feed length X feed load X 1440)/10^6
(160 X 6.7 X 440 X 1440)/10^6
679.2g/m
5. Re-combing in similar fashion
6. 1st Gilling- output- 24g/m
7. 2nd Gilling- output- 22g/m
8. 3rd Gilling- output- 12g/m
9. Finishing- 4.5 g/m
10. Roving- 9 g/m
Page | 28
Drawing
Drawing is the process of passing the hackled slivers through a certain number
of rollers that give these slivers a greater shine, finer texture and devoid of most
of the thick and thin places.
Feed: Hackled slivers
Delivery: Drawn slivers or cans (100s, 80s)
SOP of Drawing Machine

Machine names: FX280, FX281, FX282, FX283, FX284
Number of machine available: 12
Make: James Mackie, Italian, Domestic
Year of manufacture: 1949, 1993, 1983
Machine Name
FX280
FX281
FX282
FX283
FX284
No. of Head
2,3,4
2,3,4
3,4,5
4,5,6
5,6,7
Distance Between
Carriage Plate
1180
1104
1003
953
928
No. of Faller/Head
97
88
96
87
84
Diameter of Front Roller
76
63
45
45
45
Diameter of Back Roller
77
51
45
45
45
Significance of drawing
Drawing of the hackled fibre ensures that slivers of the desired count are
obtained.
It removes the thick and thin places that are present in the hackled slivers.
It delivers a more lustrous sliver than the hackled slivers.
The slivers that are delivered are lesser in volume than the hackled fibres.
In this process, the remaining of the dirt particles is removed.
This process helps in blending the fibres.
Page | 29
Process
There are six rows of draw frames, each row containing six draw frames.
One drum of hackled sliver is passed through each of the draw frames
and one continuous sliver of hackled fibres is drawn.
The drawing process is accomplished by passing the hackled slivers
through a system of rollers such that the fibres are stretched to be
straightened and be cleared of the remaining dirt particles.
A continuous sliver of hackled fibres is passed through each of the six
draw frames progressively.
The hackled slivers are firstly passed through the rollers of the first draw
frame.
That sliver is passed through the second draw frame, then the third, the
fourth, the fifth and lastly the sixth draw frame.
The sliver that is treated by the sixth and the last draw frame is delivered
as the drawn slivers.
Each row of the draw frames have colour coded drum where the
individual drawn slivers are delivered.
The colour codes are used to distinguish the count of the individual
slivers from the individual draw frames. The colours are red, orange,
green, deep blue, light blue and yellow.
In drawing, doubling and drafting are also done.
Doubling is done to make the slivers even. In one unit, 6 slivers are
combined into one to form cans.
Page | 30
Roving
Roving is the process of giving the drawn slivers a false (protective) twist to
provide strength before the bleaching or boiling process is being undertaken.
Roving provides the drawn slivers
with a suitable package.
Feed: Drawn slivers
Delivery: Roved slivers
SOP of Roving Machine

Machine name: FX-402
Number of machines: 4
Figure 4.2 Roving Frame
No. of Heads
15
No. of Spindles
120
Diameter of Front Roller
38.1
Diameter of Back Roller
38
Roving machine
Roving machines have a feed section through which the drawn slivers are
fed and the slivers are given a false and loose twist.
At the delivery section, there are cylindrical empty packages for the roved
slivers to be wound around.
The drawn slivers are fed through the feeding zone and the false twists
are given in the twisting section.
The delivery section has the empty cylinder so that the roved slivers are
wound around.
In roving, one doubled sliver is passed through one spindle. There are a
total of 120 spindles.
There are no combinations of the hackled fibres.
Page | 31
Boiling
Boiling is the process of treating the roved slivers such as to remove all the
remaining grease and the dust materials.
Feed: Roved slivers
Delivery: Boiled roved slivers
SOP of Boling Machine
Machine used: Loris Belline
Capacity: 8 carriers (1150 bobbins)
Consumption of water: 10,000 litres x 5 times
Significance of boiling
Boiling makes the roved slivers softer.
It also gets rid of all the remaining grease and dirt particles.
Characteristics of the roved slivers after boiling
The slivers are softer and they are mostly free from the grease materials
and dirt particles.
Figure 5.1 Boiling Machine
Figure 5.2 Boiled Rove
There is one PR (preparation) tank where the solution is prepared, and a main
tank where bleaching is done.
Page | 32
Process Flow Chart for Boiling

Wetting with soap at Room
Temp. for 10 minutes
Boiling with Caustic Soda at

95C for 90 minutes
First hot wash with soft water at

80C for 15 minutes
Second hot wash with soft water

at 80C for 15 minutes
Washing with CH3COOH at

Room Temp. for 15 minutes
Cold Wash with soft water at

Room Temp. for 10 minutes
Soft Water Wash for finishing at

40C for 15 minutes
Page | 33
Bleaching
Bleaching is the process of removal of all the natural coloring matters from the
raw fibre materials.
Feed: Roved slivers
Delivery: Bleached roved slivers
Chemicals used for bleaching:
1. Hydrogen peroxide 35%
2. Sodium hypochlorite
3. Sodium chlorite 40%
4. Peracetic acid 15%
5. Sodium nitrate
6. Sodium hydroxide
7. Pretepon G
8. Solopol BLS concentrated
9. Sultafon UNS
10. Magnesium sulphate
Significance of bleaching
Bleaching makes the roved slivers white in colour.
It helps in getting rid of all the natural colours to make it suitable for the
fibres to absorb the dyes and get the desired colour.
Characteristics of bleached roved slivers

The roved slivers are white in colour.
They are ready to absorb dyes that are used to treat the roved slivers with.
Page | 34
Process Flow Chart for Bleaching

Pretreatment with HCL at 52C for
15 minutes
Cold Wash with soft water at Room

First Bleaching with H2O2 at 85C

for 35 minutes
Cold Wash with soft water at Room

Sampling
Second Bleaching with H2O2 at

95C for 45 minutes
First hot wash with chemical at

80C 10 minutes
Sampling
Washing with CH3COOH at Room

Soft Water Wash for finishing at

40C for 15 minutes
Page | 35
Wet Spinning
Wet spinning is the process of spinning of fibres into yarns in a wet
environment.
Feed: Bleached or boiled roved slivers
Delivery: Spun yarns
SOP of Wet Spinning Machine
Machine name: Spinning ring frame
(PM-88 L5)
Number of machines: 26
Number of people working: 40
No. of spindles: 56
Yarn linear density: 20-60 tex (Nm)
Twist/meter: 300-800Tm
Twist direction: Right Z
Yarn ring diameter: 55mm
Wind height: 210mm
Spindle speed rpm: 3700-3800
Drafting system: Single zone, single
apron drafting system with two pressure
rollers
Figure 6.1 Ring Frame
Color coding is done for different rings for spinning yarns of different counts
(lea).
Mechanism
The mechanism of the machine is that the roves are fed through the feeding
section.
The feed roller rotates at a lesser speed than the delivery roller causing
the slivers to thin in the process.
The ring frame machine uses warm water to proceed with the spinning
action of linen..
Page | 36
Significance of wet spinning:

Wet spinning helps in converting the roved slivers into yarns of a definite
count.
It makes the slivers to be suitable for weaving process
TWISTING:
Two or more single yarns are twisted to form a
single yarn.
SOP of Twisting Machine
Number of machines = 13
Name : Two for one twister
Make : Prerna
Model number : prn 160/W
Number of spindles : 144
Traverse length : 5.5
Figure 6.2 Twisting Machine
Page | 37
RF Drying
RF Drying helps in the drying of the wet yarns that are being spun in the wet
spinning process. RF dryer is the machine used to carryout the process.
Feed: Wet spun yarn
Delivery: Dried spun yarns
Machine Used: Monga Strayfield RF Drier
No of Machines: 2
Consists of the following components:
i.
ii.
iii.
iv.
Conveyor belt
Control panel
Back side conveyor belt
There are total 30 chambers and at a time 19440 spindles can be dried.
The remaining water in the wet spindles is removed by passing it through the
chamber of RF Drier. The wet spindles are kept on a moving belt in the
chamber. The time is adjusted by increasing/decreasing the speed of the moving
belt in the chamber
A wet product submitted to a Radio Frequency (RF) field absorbs the
electromagnetic energy so that its internal temperature increases. If a sufficient
amount of energy is supplied, the water is converted into steam, which leaves
the product, that is to say the wet product gets dried.
Figure 7.1 RF Dryer
Page | 38
Winding
Winding is the process of salable package formation of yarns, i.e, big yarn
packages are formed such that they can be sold. Moreover, Winding also helps
in manageable package formation of yarns such that they can be further
processed.
Feed: Dried spun yarns
Delivery: Packages of spun yarns (Weight: 1-1.5 kg)
SOP of Winding Machine
Machine used: SCHLAFHORST
AUTO CONER
No. of machines: 3
Speed: 500m/min
Production: 3 tonnes/day
Parts of the Machine
INDICATORS:
RED- when the machine
stops due to entanglement
of threads
GREEN- when the
machine is running
YELLOW- when the
package is complete
Figure 8.1 Winding Machine
GRIPPER ARM:
The upper arm gripping is
also clearly more efficient.
The piecing cycle of the
upper yarn gripping is
Figure 8.2 Winding Machine
optimized.
The suction arm moves gradually closer to the package surface with each
searching movement.
Page | 39
As a result, the yarn is gripped faster and the number of unproductive

repeat piecing cycles due to none gripping of the upper yarn is clearly
reduced.
SPLICER:
Utilizing compressed air the splice whirls the yarn ends together forming
knotless yarn joints. The tensile strength of the splice is nearly identical to the
yarn strength, thus representing the ideal, yarn like joint of two yarn ends. The
splicer is fastened on the winding unit housing. It is driven from the cam shaft
of the winding unit housing. It is driven from the cam shaft of the winding unit
via plug coupling. Shaft carries the cams for splicing. Splice testing takes place
automatically at the winding unit start up, as the splice passes through the
clearers measuring slot.
WINDING UNIT:
It consists of three major assemblies:
Winding unit housing: With package cradle, individually driven yarn
guide drum, traverse displacement, control circuitry and control
elements with signal lamps.
Central housing: With suction arm, waxing device, electronic clearer,
yarn tension sensor, splicer head, yarn tension device and suction pipe.
Creel housing: With circular magazine (RM), bobbin chute and creeling
mechanism
TENSIONING DEVICE:
The tension device applies uniform tension to the yarn, in order to obtain the
desired degree of hardness of the delivery package. The yarn runs between the
rotating tension discs driven against the direction of the running yarn by tension
motor. The desired yarn tension is generated through friction of the yarn against
the two tension disc.
PACKAGE DOFFER:
The package doffer patrols on the tracks located above the winding units. Upon
request from a winding unit the doffer winds a nose tail on the completed
package, and doffs the package. The doffer also places a new cone from the
magazine into the package cradle and winds and transfer tail.
CONDITIONING ROOM:
In this stage the bigger package wound in the Auto coner machine are stored in
a conditioning room and from there they are sent for packaging..
Page | 40
Packaging
Yarn packaging is the section where yarns are being conditioned, checked,
packed and weighed. In this section the yarns come for packaging on peg
trolleys where they are divided according to their count. Then these yarn are put
on a conveyor belt where the total work for packaging is done.
STEP 1. Firstly, these yarns are conditioned. This is done by spraying the cones
with RO water one by one. The amount of water that can be sprayed depends on
the type of cone, for example- its 20% for shafted cone.
STEP 2. Secondly, checking is done. In this section the cones are checked for
any broken thread or anything unwanted and then it goes to the packaging part.
STEP 3.Thirdly, comes packaging. Here the cones are put into plastic packets to
retain the moisture and then it is packed in cartons and sealed. 24 cones are
packed in 1 carton.
STEP 4.Fourth and the final step is weighing. Here the cartons are weighed and
the weight is written on each carton.
Packing is as done as follows:
In 1 carton 28/30/32 cones
1 kg = 32 cones
1.5 kg = 18 cones
Page | 41
Weaving
Weaving is the process of making fabrics by interlacing the threads lengthwise
and width wise commonly known as warp and weft in a regular order. The
operation is performed in a machine called a loom. Two sets of yarns are
interlaced, almost always at right angles to each other. One, called the warp,
runs lengthwise in the loom; the other, called the filling, weft or woof, runs
crosswise. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various
sequences gives many possible weave structures.
Flow Chart of Weaving Process

Segregated yarns
weavers beam
Yarn
segregation
Warping
drawn beam
warpsheet ready for weaving
Outputs
Ys
Inputs
grey and dyed yarn
segregated yarn
Drawing
weavers beam
Gaiting
drawn beam
Xs
Woven fabric
Weaving
graded fabric
Grey
checking
Page | 42
Creeling
Creeling is the process used to creel the packages.
Draw the threads into the appropriate tensioners.
Insert the threads of each horizontal row into the guides and the
appropriate stop motion element.
Parallel cone creel (magazine creel)
Capacity: 480 (480 reserved)
Features: warp stop motion, when yarn is break. Here photo electric
sensors are used.
Creeling time: 25-30 min.
Type of tensioner: Mechanical type (spring plate).
Adjustment of the tensioner: By manually.
Beam dimension:
For Rapier,
Dia. Of beam- 8.2
Length of the beam- 92
Weight of the beam- 128kg
For Projectile,
Dia. Of beam- 7
Length of beam- 92
Shift wise productive: 2 beam per shift
(avg.)
Requirement of worker: 2
Transportation of beams: by using
Creels
trolleys.
Fault: Missing end, lost end, Double end, losing end, Selvedge loose, Cut
end, Lease problems.
Warping Program:
-Yarn count 40 Lea
-Total end =2013
-Beam flange to flange distance in mm =915 mm
-Creel capacity= 480
-Total length in meter=1200 m
-Partial length in meter=150 m
-End/mm=2.2 mm
-No. of section=4 of 480 ends& 1 of 93 ends,-Section width=218.8 mm
Page | 43
Warping
Warping is the process of arranging a set of yarns (warps) in a stretched
position, the yarns parallel to each other under high tension.
Feed: Dyed or undyed yarns
Delivery: Stretched, parallel dyed or undyed yarns on warp beams.
Significance of warping
This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
We directly obtain weavers beam from this process.
As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require

sizing are used.
Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weavers beam.
Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member

if ends.
The production is less in sectional warping.

The yarn tension is less uniform.
It is less efficient than high speed warping.
Sectional warping
It is a process in which equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections or
sheets on a drum. Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam in the form
of a sheet. It is a two stage process and is used to produce fancy fabrics by color
and weave effect.
Page | 44
SOP of Sectional Warping Machine

NAME: PrashantGamatex.
(Sectional warping m/c)
Model: E.P 1100
Size: 2200 mm
Total No. of m/c: 13
No. of m/c in section I: 03
No. of m/c in section II: 04
Beam or drum diameter: 3
meter
Warping speed: 150 m/min
Sectional Warping Machine
Travers speed: 232.4 mm

Reed space: 78 inch max (64 inch avg. used)
It is a two stage process, called the warping and beaming
Warping is done from creel to drum. Creel capacity is small as compared
to direct warping.
The drum/swift is tapered at a slight angle to provide support to the yarn
and it also prevents the slippage of yarn. Higher the taper angle less will
be the package stability.
The yarns are laid section-wise, starting from the conical base side.
The first section is supported by the taper of the base and the subsequent
sections supported by the taper formed by the preceding section.
Each section has multiple ends per sequence required, while section
length is the same.
The number of ends is same in each section, except the last section also
known as the cut-able section.
The sections are traversed on the drum during warping along the width of
section to form an angle.
Length of the yarn is measured by the measuring roller.
Page | 45
Beaming
1) After completion of warping, press
centering push button to take the
m/c almost in line with beam.
2) Take an empty beam in front of
beaming headstock.
3) Take all the yarns on beam from the
top of fluted roller, waxing roller &
guide roller. Tie all yarns on the
beam keeping equal space between
the entire sections knot.
4) Start beaming by pressing the green
push button & gradually increase
speed.
5) Stop the m/c to take out the lease
safety.
Beaming
Page | 46
Technical Specification Sheet
Page | 47
Drawing
Yarn drawing is the process of passing the warped yarns through the appropriate
eye of the heddles of a harness. A harness is a rectangular frame which
performs the shedding operations. Attached to these frames are a series of wires
that are called heddles. The heddles have openings that can be compared to the
eyes of needles.
Feed: Warped yarns
Delivery: Drawn yarns
Yarn drawing is done manually with the help of a hook that helps in pulling the
yarns through the eyes of the heddles.
There are total 26 in m/c for drawing.
Two workers are required in Beam:
1) Drawer
2) Reacher
For 6 heald shaft, 4 for body & 2 for selvedge are used.
Drawing- in m/c parts: type of design.
Average no. of ends drawn/shift/operative for plain sorts- 6000-6500
ends.
Specifications of heald wire ,drop pines, heald wire
For projectile for-length 13
For rapier 200 length 15
Drop pins-different weighted drop pins are used for different count
Finer count above 80 low weight
Fault during drawing in, denting and their
corrections:
Fault 1.Crossing in warping, it is corrected by
operative
Fault 2.Pattern change. (Discussed with design
department, they solve it)
Page | 48
Gaiting and Knotting

Gaiting
Gating is the manual process of passing the induvidual ends through the
machine parts where the process takes around 3-4 hours of time.
Knotting Machine
Knotting
Knotting machine: Staubli Tophomatic
The machine is used to Knot two warp sheets together where it is capable of
making 320 knots per minute.
The various steps involved in Knotting are as follows:
Dressing
Lease up and down
Pull thread
Cutter, knotter
Waste extractor
Page | 49
Weaving
Weaving is the process interlacement of two sets of yarns, the warp and the
weft.
The weaving department is divided into 2 sheds.
Shed 1: 50 looms
I. 30 rapier looms
II. 20 projectile looms
Shed 2: 48 (all Rapier looms)
Almost 14,000 meters of fabric is made in 1 day. The maximum width of the
fabric is 153 inches i.e. 390 cm. Other widths of fabric include 200, 220 and
190. An efficiency of 65% is achieved.
A variety of weaves are used such as plain, twill, satin and fancy weave. They
also have attachments for dobby. Plain weave is the most commonly used
weave. The department works in all the three shifts. All the looms are Sulzer
Ruti Looms.
RAPIER MACHINES
Make: SULZER RUTI

No. of Machines: 78
Width: 200cm
190 cm
Max. No. of Heald Shafts Possible: 20
PROJECTILE MACHINES
Name: SULZER RUTI

Model: Projectile-Webmachine 9751997
No. of Machines: 20
Width: 390 cm
Max. No. of Heald Shafts Possible: 18
The primary motions are:

Hedding: Raising specific warp yarns by means of the harness or heddle frame
Picking: Inserting filling yarns through the shed
Beating-up: Or battening is pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of
the reed.
The secondary motions are:
Taking-up and letting-off: Winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and
releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.
Page | 50
Working Process for Weaving

Take charge handover from previous shift operators and check the
cleaning of the machine.
Indicator lights:
Warp breakage: Blue
Weft breakage: Yellow
Weft package: Yellow +

White
Doff length: Yellow +

White (continuous
blinking)
Mechanical or electrical:
Red
Always mend warp ends with same
Weaving Process
warp yarn shade and use weaver knot.
Reset meter after reach length of fabric

and inform to roll doffer to cut fabric roll.
Always use plastic wire for inserting the weft yarn in an accumulator.
Always use red hook for drawing the warp yarn in heald and reed.
Page | 51
Weaving section machine details

78 loom Repier
4 loom Repier pikanol 20 loom projectile
Name of loom-solqG6200
Sectional warping machine
-----------prashant gamatax
size of warping machine ---------------2200mm

Warp drum
300m/min
diameter--------3m/ warping speed----------100-
Reed space------60 to 80 inch

Single end warping m/c--------suzuki
Size of machine -----------2200mm/warp drum diameter---------7m
Warping speed------100-200m/mint
Type of creel------parallel/ creel capacity--------480max/ creeling
time-----30min
Type of tensioner---------air pressure and mechanical
warp beam dimension( rapier)----------dia of beam8.2 length
Page | 52
Weaving Faults:
Design Cut
Wrong Drawing
Wrong Denting
Wrong Warp Pattern
Wrong Weft Pattern
Missing End
Double End
Cheera, Chappa, Stitches, Float
Lashing Pick
Tall Ends
Bad Selvedge
Wrong Monogram
Wrong Design
Wrong Lifting
Reed Mark
Temple Mark
Oil Stain
Jhiri, Patti
Let-off-mark
Starting Mark
Small Weft cut, Long Weft Cut
Double Pick
Hole
Page | 53
A Survey on the Weaving Department

Waste %
4.45
4.45
4.5
4.45 4.35
4.26
4
3.44
3.5
3
2.5
Waste target
Waste Actual
1.5
1
0.5
0
Jan-16
Feb-16
Mar-16
Running Efficiency
70
70
70
70
69
68
67.4
67.2
Running Efficiency Target
67
66.3
Running Efficiency Actual
66
65
64
Jan-16
Feb-16
Mar-16
Page | 54
Loom Production Metres/Day

24800
25000
22779
24800
23619
24800
22604
20000
15000
Loom Production im Mtrs Target

Loom Production in Mtrs Actual
10000
5000
4.5
0
Jan-16
Feb-16
Mar-16
Warping Production Meters/Day

30000
29325
29325
29325
29000
28000
27447
26575
27000
26000
25529
Warping Production Target

Warping Production Actual
25000
24000
23000
Page | 55
Power/100 Meter
160
144
144
144
140
111
120
95
100
77
Target
80
Actual
60
40
20
0
Jan-16
Feb-16
Mar-16
Weaving Damage%
2.5
2.13
1.84
2
1.68
1.5
1.25
1.25
1.25
Weaving Damage Target

Weaving Damage Actual
0.5
0
Jan-16
Feb-16
Mar-16
Page | 56
Pre-Treatment Process
Jaya Shree Textiles contribute to three basic Pre-Treatment processes for Piece
Dyed Fabrics:
Singeing
Desizing
Flow chart for Pre-Treatment Processes:
1
Piece Dyed Fabrics
Yarn Dyed Fabric

2
Singeing+Desizing
Singeing
3
Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR)
Finishing Process
4
Finishing Process
Page | 57
Singeing
Singeing refers to the burning-off of surface fiber. Loose fibres not firmly
bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the surface of
the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces,
and pilling results.
Singeing is carried out due to the following reasons:
Loose yarns are not firmly bound into the fabric structure.
Protruding fibre ends are sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.
SOP of Seinging cum Desizing Machine

Name: OSHTOFF singeing machine
Made In: GERMANY
Source of flame: L.P.G.
Pressure of LPG: 1.5 bar
Flame Height: 6 approx
Temperature of flame: 1100 C
Singeing through Singeing
Speed: 100 m/min

Colour of flame: Blue
Flame Intensity: Depends upon the G.L.M. of fabrics
The flame attacks the fabric in three ways:
1. Direct: The flame is perpendicular on the fabric surface. This is the process
that is being used.
2. Angular: The flame and the fabric surface creates an angle between them.
3. From below: The flame is provide from below on the fabric.
Page | 58
Operating Process
1. Emergency stops are checked.
2. Air pressure is checked.
3. Front roll setting and automatic press
lifting point on 1 position
4. Before ignition, check that fabric is
wound tightly around the singeing rollers
to prevent burning.
5. Initial burner pressure is kept very low.
6. Before shutting down, the machine is
cleaned for atleast 12 min keeping key at 1
position
Singeing cum Desizing Machine
7. Duct 3 is cleaned using water spray.

8. Rollers and chemical tanks are cleaned after padding.
Page | 59
Desizing
Process Flow Chart
Pre brushing
unit
Singeing
Keep the batch in rotation

for 8-10 hours
Dancer roller
Batch
formation
Post brushing
Padding with
desize(85 C)
Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in
woven fabrics. Sizing agents are selected on the basis of type of fabric,
environmental friendliness, ease of removal, cost considerations, effluent
treatment, etc.
Desizing, irrespective of what the desizing agent is, involves impregnation of
the fabric with the desizing agent, allowing the desizing agent to degrade or
solubilize the size material, and finally to wash out the degradation products.
Machinery Parameters
NIP Pressure: 0.8 BAR
Trough Capacity: 750 lit
Chemical Recipe
Enzyme: 5 g/l
Wetting agent: 4 g/l
Complexer : 1 to 1.5 g/l
Temperature: 85 C
pH : 6 to 9.5
Speed: 80 to 100 m/min
Enzyme used: Palkozyme Plus.
Page | 60

(CBR)
Bleaching in our open-width ranges is executed with a pad-steam bleaching
process. It combines a two step chemical processes:
Demineralising the fabric and
Bleaching the fabric using Peroxide/Alkali liquor in combination with a
steam atmosphere.
Bleaching ranges vary in size and are available from 300 to 1200 kg/h. The
process is highly economical in water/steam/chemical consumption as
compared with discontinuous
machines.
SOP of Bleaching Machine

Name: Mezzera HTP UNITEX
Made in: Italy
Year of Manufacturing: 2006
Number of Chambers with details:
CBR Machine
CHAMBER 1 &2 : HOT
WATER(90C) WASH
(CAPACITY : 1200L EACH)
CHAMBER 3 : PEROXIDE, CAUSTIC SODA, STABILIZER AND
WETTING AGENT WASH (CAPACITY : 200L)
CHAMBER 4 (STEAMER) : STEAMED AT 99C (contact time in
steamer 2-2.5 min for 90m)
CHAMBER 5 : HOT WATER(100C) WASH + STEAM SPRAY
(CAPACITY : 1800L)
CHAMBER 6 & 7 : : HOT WATER(90C) WASH (CAPACITY : 1800L
& 1200L respectively)
CHAMBER 8 (a&b) : COLD WASH - NEUTRALISATION WITH
ACETIC ACID (CAPACITY : 600L EACH)
Page | 61
Ratio of Water and Material: 6 lit/kg

Threading Length: 40 m
Contact Time in Steamer: 3 min
Pressure Required:
Steam pressure: 5-6 bar
Water pressure: 2-4 bar
Air pressure: 5-6 bar
Working Width: 2000m
Max Speed: 50mtr/min
Operating Process
1. Dosing of chemical with sequesting agent to prevent holes in fabric.
(Iron contamination by weaving or chikates iron particle deposition may create
hole in fabric)
2. 3 prewashes at 90 C to prevent overdosing of chemical.
Checkpoints:
(exact recipe of liquor is to be used after tartaration from QA lab)
(Speed Control)
3. Steaming zone for 130mtr fabric at a time at 90-95 C maintain ph by caustic
soda
4. Post washes using double threading of fabric tp increase efficiency of
washing.
5. VDR to dry the fabric. 100 kg of steam (120-130 C) required for single
roller. Steam pressure maintained at 4 kg/cm sq.
6. Sample for whiteness in sent to QA lab. If the whiteness is less than 70-80
then fabric is bleached on jigger.
Page | 62
Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR) Diagram
Page | 63
Dyeing
The process of applying desired colour/shade to the yarn/piece is termed as
Dyeing.
The two basic constituents of dyeing are:
Alkali
Colour
Alkali
Alkali is used in dyeing to maintain pH. Best dyeing rate is achieved at pH
of11-12. Further increase in pH will reduce the reaction rate as well as the
efficiency in fixation.
The most common alkali that we use in dyeing is Caustic Soda or Silicate
Preparation of Alkali
The raw Alkali is concentrated at 130 but we need to have 34 concentration to
achieve best dyeing.
To achieve this degree of concentration we need to add 5 GPL of Caustic to 32
concentrated Alkali.
Page | 64
Process
The raw silicate of approx. 50 kg is added to 150kg of H2O(room temperature)
If the concentration of Alkali is more than 32 concentration, Add extra water
If the concentration of Alkali is less the 32 concentration, Add Silicate
Now check the total Concentration
When 32 concentration of total weight of silicate is formed, Add 54 GPL

Caustic
Now check the solution again
The final weight of concentration will be 34
Page | 65
Colour
Colours are used to give specific shade to the fabric.
Primary Colours: The basic colours that can mingle with each other to form vast
number of colours
There are three primary colours: Red, Yellow and Blue
Pre-Preparatory Process
Tear the weighing Container
Check all the available colours
Weigh the colour that has least quantity first proceeded by the colour with
maximum quantity
Sample Paste Preparation
Colour paste is formed by mixing colour and water in the ratio 1:10
Start Steering
Paste is formed
Large Volume Preparation
Take colour and water in the tank in the ratio 1:10 where the water is at normal
room temperature
Add all the colours and chemicals such as wetting agent, dispersing agent etc.
Finally when the required amount of volume is obtained, Start Steering
Final Dye Solution is formed
Page | 66
Dyeing in Jaya Shree Textiles

Dyeing of linen is done in the Jaya Shree Textiles in two forms:
Yarn Dyeing
Piece Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing
The process of applying desired colour to the spun yarn is termed as yarn
dyeing.
Feed: Undyed yarn
Delivery: Dyed Yarn
Yarn Dyeing can be categorised into two forms
Package Dyeing
Hank Dyeing
Piece Dyeing
The process of applying desired shade to the RFD (Ready For Dyeing) fabric is
termed as piece dyeing.
Feed: RFD (ready For Dyeing) Fabric
Delivery: Dyed Fabric
Piece dyeing can be categorised into three forms:
Pad-Batch Dyeing(Exhaust Dyeing)
Continuous Dyeing
Page | 67
Yarn Dyeing
Significance of Yarn Dyeing
To give specific colours to the yarns

To create interesting checks, stripes and plaids
To help dyestuff to penetrate to the fibers in the core of yarn
Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in colour
Dyes used in the Industry

Reactive Dyes
Vat Dyes
Lab Activity
Shade Development
In -Process shade matching
Quality Testing (fastness)
There are two forms of yarn dyeing done in the industry
Package Dyeing
Hank Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing Audit Report
Date: 25/05/2016
Target
HTHP Production-kg 6945
Daily
Updt
7337
8732
Hands/100kg
120
117
110
INT.Cust.Complain
(The whole system is computerised and complete database is maintained)
Page | 68
Package Dyeing
What is HTHP Package Dyeing?
Dyeing method with High temperature and High Pressure in the form of
packages of any textile substrate in a pressure vessel is called as HTHP Package
Dyeing.
Packages comes in two kind, either cylindrical or conical.
Process Flow Chart of Package Dyeing Process of Yarn
Grey Receipt
Loading into Carriers
Dyeing of HTHP
Unloading from
Carriers
Hydro Extraction
Radio Frequency
Drying
Packaging of Dyed
Yarns
Page | 69
Machines employed for Package Dyeing
Dalals Dyeing Machine

Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine
Fongs Dyeing Machine
Hydro Extraction Machine
Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine
Fong's Dyeing Machine
SOP of Dalals Dyeing Machine

Total no of machines:6 (Wool Dyeing)
Capacities:60kg/300kg
Outside-In Flow Schematic Diagram
Page | 70
SOP of Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine

Total no of machines: 7 (Wool Dyeing) + 5 (Yarn Dyeing) = 12
Capacities: 160kg/280kg/360kg
Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine Diagram
Page | 71
SOP Fongs Dyeing Machine

Total no of machines: 7 (Yarn Dyeing)
Capacities: 40kg/72kg/189kg
Fongs Dyeing Machine Diagram
Page | 72
SOP Hydro Extraction Machine

Manufacturer: Centrifuge Berta
RPM: 1470cycles
Capacity: 160kg
Power: 16kw
Machine is used for removing excess water by centrifugal extraction. About
65% of water is removed by this process.
The machine is like a round basket made of steel. There are many holes at the
base of the machine. It is moveable that moves and the water is removed by
centrifugal attraction. Extracted water is drained through the holes.
SOP of Radio Frequency Drier

RF Drying helps in the drying of the wet yarns that are dyed . RF dryer is the
machine used to carry out the process.
Feed: Wet dyed yarn
Delivery: Dried dyed yarns
Machine Used: Monga
Strayfield RF Drier
No of Machines: 2
Consists of the following
components:
v.
vi.
vii.
viii.

Conveyor belt
Control panel
The remaining water in the cones is removed by passing it through the chamber
of RF Drier. The cones are kept on a moving belt in the chamber. The time is
adjusted by increasing/decreasing the speed of the moving belt in the chamber
Page | 73
Advantages:
Uniform drying at low temperature where only the humid parts are heated
Energy Saving (1.2 kg water per kW/hr high frequency power)
Improved fiber quality and fastness
Residual humidity controlled within 1%
Constant and repeatable drying level
Space saving and time saving
Instant controls and adjustments
Page | 74
Hank Dyeing
It is also known as Skein Dyeing where the spun yarns are made into hanks or
skein before dyeing.The hanks or skeins are loosely wounded packages of
yarns. Due to this looseness, dye penetration in hank dyeing becomes excellent.
The skeins are hung over a ring and immersed in a dyebath in a large container.
After the compilation of the dyeing process, the yarns are re-wounded in spools.
This is the most costly form of dyeing.
The colour penetration is best and the yarns also retain a softer and loftier hand.
Machines employed for Hank Dyeing

Cone to Hank Reeling
It is a machine that converts Cones that are large spools of yarns into
loosely wounded hanks which are then send to dyeing machine.
Hank Dyeing Machine
SOP of Hank Dyeing Machine
Manufacturer: Flainox (Italy)
Year: 2009
Capacity: 30kg
Total No of Machines: 4 of 30kg/1 of 2kg/2 of 60kg and 1 of 300kg
It is the machine that dyes the hanks of yarns.
Squeezer
SOP of Squeezer
Manufacturer: Minmetti (Italy)
Year: 2007
Capacity: 1 stick/5 sec
Total No. Of machines: 2
It is a machine that squeezes out the water from the hanks after it has
been dyed.
Page | 75
SOP of Radio Frequency Drier

RF Drying helps in the drying of the wet yarns that are dyed. RF dryer is the
machine used to carry out the process.
Feed: Wet dyed yarn
Delivery: Dried dyed yarns
Machine Used: Monga
Strayfield RF Drier
No of Machines: 2
Consists of the following
components:
i.
ii.
iii.
iv.
Conveyor belt
Control panel
The remaining water in the cones is removed by passing it through the chamber
of RF Drier. The cones are kept on a moving belt in the chamber. The time is
adjusted by increasing/decreasing the speed of the moving belt in the chamber
Advantages:
Uniform drying at low temperature where only the humid parts are heated
Energy Saving (1.2 kg water per kW/hr high frequency power)
Improved fiber quality and fastness
Residual humidity controlled within 1%
Constant and repeatable drying level
Space saving and time saving
Instant controls and adjustments
Hank to Cone Reeling

It is the machine that converts the hanks back to the cones of yarns and
then it is packed.
Page | 76
Process Flow Chart of Hank Dyeing Process of Yarn

Grey or bleached yarn
into the form of cone
Creeling of cone into

hank form
Loading of hank in the

carrier
Dyeing in the dyeing

machine
Squeezing in the
squeezer machine
Drying in the drying

machine
Conversion of hank into

the cone
Packaging of Dyed
Yarns
Page | 77
Piece Dyeing
Significance of Piece Dyeing
To give specific shade to the fabric
To help dyestuff to form bond with the fibers of fabric
To provide lustre to the fabric
Dyes used in the Industry
Reactive Dyes: in a reactive dye a chromophore contains a substituent
that is activated and allowed to directly react to the surface of the
substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the
bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly
used in dyeing of cellulose like cotton or flax.
Lab Activity
Shade Development
In -Process shade matching
Quality Testing (fastness)
Machines at Lab for Dyeing Tests
Colour Checking Booth
Instrument Name: Mathis Padder
Speed: 2.5m/min
Pressure: 5Bar
Purpose: Sample padding
Before dyeing of a batch, a sample is dyed for DLC (Di liquor
confirmation so that the same shade comes when the batch is dyed.
Launderometer (for fastness testing due to washing)
Spectrometer (for fastness due to light)
Forms of dyeing process done in the industry
Pad-Batch Dyeing (Exhaust Dyeing)
Continuous Dyeing (*not practised in the industry)
Page | 78
Piece Dyeing Audit Report

Date: 28/05/2016
Budget
Today
Updt
Fabric Delivery
(mtr)
756000
20671
453313
Manpower
237
211
239
INT.Cust.Complain 0
(*The whole system is computerised and complete database is maintained)
Page | 79
Pad-Batch Dyeing (Exhaust Dyeing)

Batch dyeing is the most popular and common method used for dyeing of textile
materials. It is often referred to as Exhaust Dyeing.
Valuable factors in reactive Exhaust Dyeing with reactive dyes
Temperature: A higher temperature in dyeing with reactive dyes results in
higher rate of dyeing, Lower colour yield, Better dye penetration, Rapid
diffusion, and lower sustianivity.
pH: pH influences the primary site of reaction on the fabric, Best dyeing rate is
achieved at pH of11-12. Further increase in pH will reduce the reaction rate as
well as the efficiency in fixation.
Electrolyte: Electrolyte increases the rate and extent of exhaustion, Electrolyte
increases the dye aggregation. Electrolyte decreases the diffusion.
Liquor to material ratio: Advantages of lower liquor ratio, higher colour
strength and higher exhaustion.
Machines employed for Pad-Batch Dyeing

Jig Dyeing Machine
Jet Dyeing Machine
Jig Dyeing
SOP of Jig Dyeing Machine
Manufacturer: Pacific Harish Industries
Water Capacity: 500kg
Max. Temperature: 98C
Jumbo Jigger
It is the old form jigger machine also known as Open Jigger where the
quantity of water/steam/ speed control is done manually by the operator.
Total no. of machine: 2
Page | 80
There are two types of Jig Dyeing machines in the industry

Pacific Jigger
It is the modern form of jigger
also known as Close Jigger that
has a touch pad from where the
operator can take the prescribed
quantity of
water/steam/controlling of speed
in one touch.
Pacific Jigger Dyeing Machine
Jigger Dyeing Machine Diagram
Page | 81
Process Flow Chart of Jig Dyeing

Cleaning of Bath roll
Leading cloth is joined

to the feeding roller
Warm Wash
Manually passed to the

feeding roller
(2 rounds)
Colour Wash
Salt Wash
(2 rounds)
(2 rounds)
Solid Wash at
60C
(6 rounds)
Cold wash
Acid Wash at
60C
Piece Cut
Soaping
Hot Wash
Cold Wash
(2rounds)
(2 rounds)
(2 rounds)
ash
(2 rounds)
(6 rounds)
Wrapped with plastic

sheet
(2 rounds)
OOH)
(2 rounds)
aping
Fabric is unloaded
to the Batch Roller
Wash
Neutralization (by
(2 rounds)
CH3COOH)
(2 rounds)
(2 rounds)
Wash
Wash of Jig Dyeing over CPB Dyeing is that Steeping can be

(The basic(Cold
advantage
done in fabric
so that the flaws can be removed and it can be re-dyed)
(2 rounds)
2 rounds)
Page | 82
SOP of Jet Dyeing Machine (*not in working state)

Manufacturer: Swish fid Pvt.Ltd
Loading Capacity: 150kg
Liquor in Bath: 700ltr
Max. Temperature: 140C
Max. Pressure: 5kh/cm
Diameter of Jet Nozzle: 2mm (Suiting) and 1.5mm (Shirting)
Total No. of machines: 1
Page | 83
Semi-Continuous Dyeing (Exhaust Dyeing)

Semi Continuous Dyeing is also known as pad batch dyeing. Such form of
dyeing is able to dye fabric length of 1000-2000m at economic cost.
In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad roll
where the fabric is first impregnated with the dye liquor in, which is called a
padding chamber. In the pad-roll this treatment is done at low temperature by
employing cooling chamber. This helps in fixation of dyes on the fibre.
Machines employed for Semi-Continuous Dyeing:
SOP of Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine (CPB)
Manufacturer: Kusters Calico Machinery Ltd. Gujarat

Threading Length: 10m
Roller Width: 2000mm
Working Width: 1800mm
Squeeze Roll Hardness: 60
shor
Trough Capacity: 50ltr
Max. Air Pressure: 3.9bar
Max. Oil Pressure: 3.2bar
Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine
There are two types of Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine in the industry:
Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine (Automatic)
It is the modern form of CPB machine that has a touch pad from where
the operator can take the prescribed quantity of water/dye + chemical
ratio/controlling of speed in one touch.
Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine (Manually Operated)
It is the old form CPB machine where the quantity of water/dye +
chemical ratio/ speed control is done manually by the operator.
Page | 84
Process Flow Chart of Cold Pad Batch Dyeing:

Cleaning of Trough
Stitching of leader
Cloth to the RDF fabric
Dyeing Solution
Preparation and test
Machine Starts
Leading cloth is rolled

over feeding roller and
the cloth is cut.
Now the feeding

batch Roller is
wrapped with
plastic sheet
Now the Dyed

Fabric has to be
rolled over feeding
batch roller
Rotational fixation
process of 12 hrs.
The feeding batch

is then wrapped
with plastic sheet
Completion of
Dyeing
Finishing
Setup Layout of Kusters Cold Pad Batch Machine
Page | 85
Finishing
Manufacturing Linen Textiles in Jaya Shree Textiles, finishing refers to the
processes that convert the woven cloth into a usable material and more
specifically to any process performed after dyeing the fabric to improve the
look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile.
Process Flow Chart of Finishing

Input
Dyed Fabric
Bleached Fabric
Finishing on Stenter Machine
Calendering
No Calendering
Sanforizing
Folding and Laboratory Testing
Page | 86
Stenter Machine
It is a machine used to impart chemical finish to fabric. The purpose of the
stenter machine is to bring the length and width to pre determined dimensions
and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also
shade variation is adjusted. Main objectives of stenter machine are: drying,
finishing, heat setting and curing. There are 3 Harish Stenter Machines which
have the same working.
SOP of Stenter Machine

Name: Harish stenter 60 H,PIN
Model: D1x1
No. of Heating Chambers: 6
No. of Radiators: 4 in each chambers
Maximum Temperature: 180 C
Standard Temperature: 160 170 C
Blower Fan Speed: 100 rpm
Mangle: 2 DIP & 2 NIP
Maximum NIP Pressure: 6 kg/cm2
Workable NIP Pressure: 4 kg/cm2
Workable Width: 180 cm
Threading Length: 150 m
Trough Capacity: 150 L
Standard Overfeed: 4 %
Components of Machine
1. Trough-chemical is loaded on the Trough.
2. Padding mangle-squeezes out extra amount of chemical,leaving only the
required amount of chemical inside the fabric.No dwell time required.(std
mangle pressure-2.5kg)
3. Bianco-for head setting i.e, keep the warps vertically straight in one direction.
Page | 87
4. overfeed roll-shrinkage setting

5. Pinning table-To keep the width uniform.
6. Camera-moves left and right according to the image of selvedge on it.
7. Uncurler-removes the curling of selvedge of fabric
8. Heat chamber-to dry the fabric.There are 6 heat chambers each with the
standard temperature of 150 C.
9. Detector and alarm-To detect any abnormalities in tension,load or presence of
dirt and ring alarm to inform the operator for immediate action.
10. Platter area-output zone
11. Air blower-for cleaning.
Working Process
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed
through the padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade
variation is corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the
function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by
the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they
pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than
the clips.these clips and pins are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10
chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters
are provided to separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base
to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers.
Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The
speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each
chamber.
Page | 88
Stenter Machine Diagram
Page | 89
Operating Process
Delivery of wet fabric rolls covered with plastic sheets and ticketed as
For Finishfrom bleaching and dyeing department.
Supervisor gives the chemical recipe according to the roll number in the
programme book.
Buckets and chemical tanks are cleaned and then chemicals are prepared
as per the given recipe.
Checkpoint- Weighing of chemicals checked by the supervisor randomly.
Operators re open the plastic sheets and input the rolls of fabric.
Chemical shifting from chemical tank to Truff.
Parameter setting( eg temperature, pressure, width etc ) by the operator.
Machine is run.
Checkpoints:
o automatic limit( left, right) according to the width of fabric.
o Heat chamber net cleaned regularly for even heating/drying.
o Brushes changed twice a day based on the deposition of yarn on
them.
o If fabric has loose threads on the surface,uncurler is switched
on.
o Machine stopped immediately on the ringing of alarm which
may be due to roll change,filling of chemical in truff etc.
Platerman checks the fabric on output side.
Checkpoints:
o In case of any defect or non conformance to quality,it should
be immediately informed to the supervisor.(not followed)
Output rolls are again covered with plastic sheets and ticketed as for
calender or for zero.
Page | 90
Calendering
It is the process used to impart chemical finish to fabric using frictional force
between calendar rolls. There is one 3 bowl calendar machine. The main
objectives of calendaring are:To upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth
silky touch to the fabric, improve the opacity of gthe fabric, compress the fabric
and reduce its thickness, impart different degree of luster to the fabric, reduce
yarn slippage.
SOP of Calendering Machine
Name: Ramisch Guarneri
Working Width: 150m
Threading Length:10m
Standard Speed: 50mtr/min
Standard Temperature100C
Maximum Pressure: 150C
Standard Pressure: 200N/m
Maximum Pressure: 350N/m
1. Metal detector: Detects the presence of metal on the surface of fabric and
rings alarm.
2. Seam detector: Detects presence of stitch in the fabric in same roll and
rings alarm. Pressure then drops to 0 till the stitched part is rolled on the
output roller and then resumes with 200 N.
3. Calender Rolls:
-Bottom roller made of cotton: for soft finish the fabric is passed through
cotton bowl. This roller is made up of cotton.
-mid roller made of fibre: To avoid selvedge overlapping on batcher.
-top roller made of steel through which steam is applied to fabric: To give
smoothness and luster. The temperature is provided to steel roller about 32200 c with help of electric heater as we increase the temperature shining will
increases only used for cotton CVC and percale and PC.
Page | 91
4. Cooling drum: Cool down the fabric water circulates inside the cooling
drum.
5. Amperometer: shows the
current consumption of
machine.(not working)
6. Guide rollers guide the fabric
through the machine.
*4000-5000 m fabric input at a
time
*8-9 ampere current utilized.
Calendering Machine
Operating Process
Delivery of fabric rolls wrapped in plastic sheet and ticketed as for
calender from stenter machine.
Plastic sheets unwrapped and input roll loaded manually. Checkpointrolls are loaded such that face side of fabric is in contact with calender
rollers for softer hand and more lusture.
Machine is run applying entrance braking pressure of 25 bar.
200 N calender pressure applied on fabric.
A standard speed is maintained thereafter. Theoretical std speed50mtr/min.speed used 70mtr/min.
Checkpoints- In case machine stops due to presence of metal detected, it
must be removed immediately.
-Dirt found on rollers during the process are remove manually there
and then.
-Rollers cleaned with water after completion of rolls or according to
the roll to be used next(white dyed fabric).
-In case of any defect on the output roll, it must be immediately
informed to the supervisor(not followed).
On completion of roll, it is wrapped with plastic sheet and ticketed as
for zero zero.
Page | 92
Calendering Machine Diagram
Page | 93
Zero Zero
Used to impart pre determined shrinkage to fabric to reduce the progressive
shrinkage during its wear.There are 2 flexa compacta machines. In sanforizing
process shrinkage is achieved by passing the cotton fabric onto a movable
elastic felt blanket is released it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus the
cotton fabric is forced to conform this compression. The shrinkage amount of
fabric is dependent on:
The nature of fibers
The character of threads
The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.
Crimp in yarn.
Cycle of washing no. of washing.
SOP of Machine
Name: Speretto Rimer
Year of Macturing: 2007
Standard Speed: 30mtr/min
Rubber Thickness: 65-40mm
Standard Rubber Blanket Temperature: 125-130C
Standard Woolen Felt Temperature: 130-140 C
Air Pressure: 4 Bar
Threading Length: 30m
1. Display board-with information about machine and for setting parameters
as shrinkage, temperature etc.
2. Cornio-To remove bowing/skewing of fabric.
3. Porous metal roller wrapped with woolen felt.steam forced to fabric
through this roll.
4. Rubber roll
5. Sprayer-to cool rubber.
Page | 94
6. Heated metal roller (130C) to set shrinkage.

7. Cool metal roller for fabric to relax.
8. Detectors for uniformity in width failing which machine stops
immediately
Safety detector- a wire which when pulled stops the machine immediately.
9. Air pipe for cleaning.
Zero Zero (Sanforizing Machine) Diagram
Page | 95
Operating Process
Delivery of rolls wrapped in plastic sheet sticketed as for zero zero
from calender machine or stenter machine.
Rubber blanket heated upto 130C.
Checkpoints
o steam and air pressure checked
o Hardness of rubber checked and grinded if required.
The required shrinkage is set on display board according to fabric used by
operators based on
their experience.
Checkpoints
o output fabric is observed where the shrinkage is modified if required.
Zero Zero (Sanforizing) Machine
Machine cleaned using air pipe.
On completion of process, rolls wrapped in
plastic sheets for folding or testing
department.
Page | 96
Folding
It is the process used to convert the finished fabric rolls into open width form.
There are 2 folding machines available at Jaya Shree Textiles.
Operating Process
Fabric is delivered wrapped in plastic sheet from zero zero machine.
Roll is unwrapped and fabric unwounded to certain length and the roll
is kept to be rotating slowly.
End of fabric fixed with clamps on machine bed.
2 operators hold the fabric from both sides(widthwise).
Machine is run.
On completion of one type/color of fabric in one roll,machine is
stopped and fabric is cut from the stitch area.
Cut part separated on another trolley and machine started again.
On completion of roll.All folded fabrics are loaded individually on
one trolley which are the carried to testing department.
Components of Machine:
Machine Bed: Folded fabric rests on the machine bed.
Rods: to guide fabric on the machine bed.
CAM and Follower: rotate and move the clamps
Clamps: carry the free fabric from one end to other folding at both the ends.
Page | 97
Rotormat
It is a machine used to impart different aesthetic effect in fabrics like cotton,
linen, wool and their blends by virtue of mechanical process i . e, beating.Only
yarn dyed fabrics are subjected to mechanical finish in rotormat machine after
washing. There are 4 rotormat machines.
SOP of Rotormat
Name: MAT De Bertoldi
Made in: Italy
Capacity: 6 rope x 100(600 mtr or
200kg)
Liquor: 200 lit
Maximum Temperature: 120C
Standard Speed: 700 mtr/min
Rotormat Machine
Page | 98
Quality Control
Quality control is the last procedure and can be done by the help of various
physical as well as chemical tests that can help in determining whether the
quality of the fabrics have met the required standards.
The Quality Control at Jaya Shree Textiles can be briefly categorised into three:
a. Physical lab
b. Dyeing Quality Department
c. Testing
Quality: Quality is the essential character- nature, an ingredient or
distinguishing attribute; property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of
grade or excellence.
Quality as defined by ISO (International Standards Organization): The totality
of features and characteristics of a product or service that bear on its ability to
satisfy stated or implied needs.
Some basic quality
Piece dyed quality
Product Reed Ppi Warp Weft Warp Weft GSM Blen
count count wt.
wt.
d
name
Quality
no.
Weave
F-1807
F 1807 Flora
48/2
56
60 lea 60
lea
9.17
9.9
116
100
%lin
en
plain
F-2078
F 2078 Flora
48/2
48
50 lea 50
lea
11
10.8
129
100
%lin
en
plain
Yarn dyed quality

Quality
no.
Product Reed Ppi Warp Weft Warp Weft GSM Blen

count count wt.
wt.
d
name
Weave
F-1451
F 1451 Amazon 44/2
44
40 lea 40
lea
12.61
11.7
148
100
%lin
en
F-5003
F 5003 Anna
56
1/60
lea
9.55
9.91
118
plain
100
%%li
nen
50/2
1/60
lea
Page | 99
Plain
Quality checking at different stages

Departme Division
nt
Checking
Method
Responsibility
Spinning quality checking

Spinning
Sorting
and
bunching
Bunch weight
Visual checking
Checker
Hackling
Sliver weight
Visual checking
Checker
Drawing
Set
weight Manual checking
making
Drawing
Finisher
drawing sliver
and
sliver
strength,micro
n check
Wrapping
Flax
spinning
machine
and SQC Supervisor
bundle
strength
tester
Roving
Rove density
Measurement of SQC Supervisor

yards per ounces
Supervisor
Bleaching Bleaching and Volume titration

plant
boiling loss
Supervisor
Ring
frame
Doff weight
Supervisor
Ring
frame
Yarn wrapping Wrapping

Supervisor
machine
and
weighing scale
Winding
Residual fault
Final yarn Physical

inspection parameters
Manual checking
Manual
winder Supervisor
with cleaner
Std method
Flax
SQC
Supervisor
Page | 100
Yarn dyeing quality checking

Departme Division
nt
Checking
Yarn
dyeing
Yarn
dyeing
store
Grey material Visual checking of yarn

dyeing
checking
whiteness index
operator
Yarn
dyeing
Shade
checking
(primary)
Under std
source
light yarn
dyeing
supervisor
Yarn
dyeing
Shade
checking
(secondary)
Under std
source
light Designing
officer
Yarn
dyeing
Washing
fastness
ISO 766
Fabric dyehouse
supervisor
Yarn
dyeing
Rubbing
fastness
Not done
Not done
Yarn
dyeing
Dyed
yarn Tenso rapid
strength check
Central
operator
Yarn
dyeing
Levelness(3
part checking)
Visual checking
Yarn
dyeing
supervisor
yarn Visual checking
Yarn
dyeing
supervisor
Delivery Dagi,
and final damage
checking
Method
Responsibility
SQC
Weaving quality checking

Departme Division
nt
Checking
Method
Responsibility
Weaving
Warping
Creeling
Visual checking
Warper,
then
checked
by
weaving
supervisor
Warping
Denting
Visual checking
Warper,
checked
weaving
then
by
Page | 101
supervisor
Warping
Pattern
checking
Visual checking
weaving
supervisor
Warping
Drawing
Visual checking
weaving
supervisor
Loom
state
Heald
check
Loom
state
On
loom Visual checking
pattern check
Loom
state
Patti checking
frame Heald layer wise weaving

yarn colour
supervisor
Two samples(4 , weaving

6)
cut.
One supervisor
checked
by
weaving,
one
checked
by
designing
Loom
state
Loom
state
weaving
supervisor
Weaving
design
supervisor
and
First
piece First 50 mtsfabric Grey inspection
checking neps, is checked in grey operator
dhaga, knots
inspection
Grey
Neps,dhaga,kn
inspection ots
Visual checking in Grey inspection

grey
inspection operator
machine
Fabric Processing Quality Checking

Departme Division
nt
Checking
Fabric
PTR( Pre Whiteness
processing treatment index
Range)
Method
Responsibility
CIE Scale
Lab supervisor
Page | 102
Dyeing
Shade and CS
Visually under std Lab supervisor

light
QA supervisor
Finishing
Checking
of Std
as
per Lab supervisor
physical
customer protocol QA supervisor
parameters,
hand feel
Finishing
Shade
grouping
Visuall Operat
y
or
under
standard light
source
(Primary: D-65;
Secondary:
CWF)
operator
Warehouse Quality Checking

Departme Division
nt
Checking
Warehous
e
Neps,
knots
Mending
Method
Responsibility
dhaga, Manual checking
Checker/supervi
sor
Grading
Weaving,
(buyerwis processing
e)
fault check
Visually under std Checker/supervi

light
sor
Rolling
and
padding
(buyerwis
e)
Than, roll size Weighing

and roll weight machine,visually
checking, roll
to roll shade
checking
Decoratin
g
table
and
packing
Order
Manually
checking and
buyerwise
packing
Checker/supervi
sor
Page | 103
Process flow of fabric from testing lab to

inspection machine
Fabric
processhouse
Not ok
Flexa compacta/zero
zero
Fabric samples are
recorded in the lab register
book with sl. No. , quality,
customer etc
Shrinkage,tear,te
nsile strength,
slippagewashing,
light,rubbing
fastness,etc are
checked
Lab testing
ok
Folding and delivery to
warehouse
Process details
- Finished fabric is collected from zero-zero machine and sent to fabric testing
lab with lot movement card, containing quality, shade, customer, NS No., Job
card no., etc.
- Record fabric samples in the lab register book with date, time , sl. No., quality,
shade no., customer, NS. No.
- Condition fabric for four hours at 21 + 2 oC temperature and 63% + 2 R.H.
- Fabric tests are performed according to requirements.
- If test results are OK, fabric is sent to folding section with quality officer
authorized signed fabric testing card and if any of the test results are NOT
OK, the fabrics are sent back for reproducing to the finishing department of the
Fabric Process House.
- No lab tests are done for less than 50 meters fabric.
- For reprocessed fabric fastness (light, washing, rubbing) tests are not done.
Page | 104
Shade evaluation
Shade matching and grouping
- All shade matching and sorting are done under standard light of D^%, CWF,
UV lights. The approved reference sample is the standard for shade continuity
checking.
- Maximum of five shade lots are allowed per colour subject to a minimum of
25% of the total lot quantity in each shade lot or minimum size of 500 meters.
In larger deliveries (e.g., 10000 meters in one colour in bottle green) higher
number of groups may be possible.
Shade continuity
Shade continuity within each roll is evaluated by assessing the shade variation
between:
- Side to center variation (CSV)
- Roll to roll
Flame retardent machine or tester

This test is carried on the flame retardant fabric which is manufactured for
Indian Railways only. There are different types of test are there to check the
flame retardancy of the fabric as: Vertical test (IS 11871 methods)
45 degree angle test (UCI 564 methods)
Limiting Oxygen Index (IS 13510 methods)
Determination of visibility due to smoke
Toxicity
Flammability tester
45 degree angle test ( UC1564)

In this test, all the processes are same as vertical test except the angle of flames
are in 45 degrees.
Page | 105
Detoriation of visibility due to smoke (UCI564)

This test is performed to check the smoke for each fibre. Gas
chromatography is used and special type of tubes is also
used. And by this method, we can also find the density of
smoke of each fibre respectively. It takes more time as well
as it needs more patience from the operator.
Visibility detoriation test
equipment
Toxicity
This test is carried out to find out the toxic gases which come
after burning of the fibre. There are total 14 different types of
toxic gases as well as different types of tube are also used to
find out the gas. Here, the flame temperature should be 1200
degree Celsius +- 100 degree Celsius.
Toxicity tester
Page | 106
Physical lab
Equipments in the physical lab
Cone or core tester
Model: Digital
Serial number: CONE/CORE COMPR. 2007-374
Year of manufacture: 2007
Make: Ubique system
Calibration method: IS 1828 (Part-1):2005 in compression
Ref. certificate number: JST/2013-076
CAP -500 kgf
Mettle electronic balance
Make: Mettler, Switzerland
Model: AE-160
Application: Precise weighing
Maximum capacity 160 gms
Resolution: 0.0001 gms
Wrap reel
Name of the machine : Wrap Reel
Identification number : 2
Make of the machine : MAG
Solvics Private Limited,
Coimbatore, India
Display Capacity : 1 to 9999
Rotation
Model number : MAG C
1051
Wrap Reel
Application : Length
measurement for determination of yarn count.
Mettle electroniuc balance
Page | 107
Uster Tensorapid 4 [UTR -4]

Name of the machine : USTER TENSORAPID
4[UTR -4]
Identification number : 6
Make of the machine : USTER
TECHNOLOGIES AG
USTER/SWITZERLAND
Application: the USTER TENSORAPID 4 is a
tensile testing installation for the quality control
in the textile industry. The determined values for
the tensile force and the elongation percentage
Measuring principle constant rate of extension
CRE
Testing mode - simple tensile test, elongation
percentage
Uster tensorapid
Force measuring range 0.01 N 500 N

Measuring accuracy For force & Elongation measurement +-1% order
+- 1 cN
Air Flow Meter
Name: air flow tester
Make: US Testing co. Inc., USA
Model: 9025
Application: Air permeability test
Technical specification: 1 to 70 CUFt./minute/ Sq. Ft. at 0.5 inch pressure
drop
Checking of Chemical Dosing in CBR
In bleaching of fabrics there are two important dosing parameters:
Dosing of Hydrogen peroxide
Dosing of caustic
Test: Colour Fastness to washing (Test method: AATCC 61A)
Equipment: Infrared Dryer
Make: Logic art
Test: Colourfastness to crocking or rubbing (Test Method: AATCC 8)
Equipment: Paramount Manual Crockmeter
It is done both for dry as well as wet rubbing.
Page | 108
Test: Residual Shrinkage % (Test method: AATCC 135)

Equipment: PARAMOUNT Accushrink scale; IFB washing machine; Tumble
drier; Flat bed press)
The dimensional changes of the fabric specimen subjected to typical home
laundering and drying practices are measured using pairs of benchmarks applied
to the fabric before laundering.
Test: Tear Strength (in lbs) (Test Method: ASTM D 1424)
Equipment: Elmendorf tearing strength tester
Make: PARAMOUNT
Checking of dye: Silicate ratio in Kuster
To avoid variation in dyeing dye: Silicate ratio is to be checked everyday before
running the machine.
If dye:silicate ratio is not 4:1, then check dosing assembly with the help of
maintenance department.
Checking of core pH
Core pH is checked of each and every lot of piece dyed fabric before finishing
avoiding any shade variation. The required value of core pH is 6.0-6.5. if core
pH is not as per requirement the goods will be taken for reprocessing.
Operating procedure of Datacolour Spectrophotometer (CCM)
Measurement of Whiteness index.
Measurement of colour difference (dE).
Recipe prediction
Recipe prediction:
1. Go to DataColor Tools. Insert user name and password.
2. If it is already calibrated then change the settings to UV 100% and
Specular Include.
3. If not, then calibrate the CCM with the said setting and appropriate aperture.
4. Press recipe button.
5. Then, go to the button marked with a flower or press F5. Measure the
standard directly.
6. Select the dyestuffs.
7. Check the appropriate light source.
8. Press the Calculate button.
9. The recipe will be in gm/kg. Select appropriate recipe with low metamerism.
Page | 109
10. Note the recipe in the register and go back to main page to DataColot
Match.
Precaution to take while using CCM:
1. For every time, dont forget to switch on CCM and computer simultaneously.
2. For every measurement, always check if the CCM is calibrated or not.
3. Always keep proper setting for measurement of white and dyed samples, i.e.,
Specular Include/ Exclude and UV %, etc.
4. Set the aperture as per the size of the sample to be measured.
5. CCM is to be calibrated for each aperture.
6. Do not go in any portion of the software which is unknown.
Page | 110
Finished Fabric Testing Report
Page | 111
Dyeing Quality Department

Fibre Dye Lab
Fabric Dye Lab
Fibre Dye Lab

In this lab, operators make the recipe of dye according to the shade cards which
is going to used for dyeing the fibre at production floor. Earlier this process
took 15 days (approx) but nowadays this process takes not more 1 day at any
cost.
In this lab there are some machines as follows:
Spectrophotometer
Autolab
Solution maker
Ahiba nuance
Colour matching machine
Spectrophotometer
This is a machine which identifies the shade of the sample. It takes recipe from
the database. But the operator has to choose the best recipe of dyes materials.
Autolab
This machine is used for error prevention while using materials for making dye
solution. It measures accurately the components of the solution.
Solution maker
This machine is used for solution making which is used for dyeing the samples.
Page | 112
Ahiba nuance
This machine can makes 14 different solutions at a single time.
Colour matching machine

After dyeing the fabric, the dyed fabric should wash and then dried in dryer,
then the samples are matching for the shade attenuation level. There are 4
different types of light in this machine which is used for colour matching and
they are DL-84, D-84, UV and fluorescent light.
Page | 113
Fabric dye lab

In this lab, all the operation is performed before the production. All quality
parameters are checked thoroughly in the lab itself. These are machines which
are present in the fabric dyeing lab are as follows:
Dispenser
This machine is used for taking recipe accurately as required and there is a
proper ratio of colour and silicates i.e. 1:4.
Padding mangle
It is dyeing equipments which are used for dyeing the samples.
Colour matching
After dyeing the samples, they are washed and dried properly and then the
colour of samples are matching under different types of lights are as: daylight,
cool white, TL-84, incandescent, horizon and ultra violet light.
Checking of RFD Fabric (Dyeing)
Before dyeing of each and every batch there is a process of checking the RFD
(Ready for Dyeing) fabric by means of its absorbency, whiteness index,
peroxide content, pH, starch content and OBA (Optical Brightening Agent)
content, C/S (Centre-to-Selvedge) variation.
Checking of DLC
To check the colour prepared for dyeing is OK or NOT OK, there is a process
called DLC checking. The method is as follows:
1. Take colour from bulk dyeing tank and RFD fabric from the same batch.
2. Pad sample in Mathis Padder in lab with bulk colour solution and bulk fabric.
3. Take 100ml water in microwave oven box.
4. Put the sample on the loosely on the box and cover it. Put the box in
microwave.
5. Set the microwave with power level 450 and time 5.0 minutes and start.
6. After 5 minutes, take out the sample, wash it, dry it and check the shade.
7. If the shade is OK, then go for bulk dyeing.
8. If the shade is NOT OK, then give necessary addition in the tank.
Only dyeing in-charge or any authorized personnel should check the DLC
sample and give addition if required.
Page | 114
Checking of shade and C/S

After dyeing of each and every batch and before finishing, there is a process
called shade and C/S checking. Every piece dyed shade should be checked
visually as well as with the help of CCM against party cuttings or approved
labdips before finishing. In case of CCM colour difference (dE) should be<1. If
the shade is not matched, then batch will be taken for re-dyeing. Only matched
shade will be considered OK for finishing. C/S of each batch should also be
OK.
Shade should be checked by HOD or dyeing in-charge or any authorized
person.
Test: Colourfastness to perspiration (Test Method: AATCC 15)
Equipment: Perspirometer (Model: M231); Make: SD ATLAS Ltd.
Specimen size: 40mmx100mm
Test: Colourfastness to light-20 AFU (Test Method: AATCC 16E)
Equipment: Water-cooled machine or Xenon arc lamp (ATLAS Cl 3000 +
XENON ARC WEATHER-O-METER)
The resistance of a material to a change in its colour characteristics as a result of
exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial light source is measured.
Exposure Conditions
Black panel temperature: 63 + 1oC
Dry bulb temperature: 43 + 2oC
Relative humidity: 30 + 5 %
Total number of segments: 1
Duration time: Irradiance
Controlling back sensor: BPT
Black temperature must be active.
Irradiance/wattage: 1.10 W/m2
Cycle: Light
Duration: 85 kJ/m2 (Approximately: 22 hrs)
Specimen spray: Off
Rack spray: Off
Xenon lamp filters: Inner (Sodium borosilicate); Outer (Soda lime)
Specific amount of exposure made under the specified condition, where one
AFU is 1/20th of the light on exposure required to produce a colour change
equal to step 4 on the grey scale (AATCC L-series) for colour change or 1.73 +
0.3 CIELAB units of colour difference on AATCC blue wool light fastness
standard L4.
Page | 115
Test: Measurement of Core pH (Test Method: AATCC 81)

Equipment:
1. PARAMOUNT pH meter with 0.1 unit graduations
2. Buffer solutions pH 4.0 and 7.0.
Calibration: Calibrate the pH meter according to the manufacturers
instructions.
Specimen: Use a 10 + 0.1 g specimen of the material to be tested.
Test: Tensile Strength (in kg) (Test method: ASTM D 5034:1995)
Equipment: universal Testing Machine (Tinius Olsen, model: H10KS by SDLATLAS)
Tolerance limit is:
For below 110 GSM: 10.0 kg for warp and 9.0 kg for weft
For above 110 GSM: 15.0 kg for warp and 13.0 kg for weft
Test: Pilling resistance (Martindale) (Test Method-4970)
Equipment: Martindale pilling and abrasion tester (Model M235)
Make: SDL ATLAS Ltd.
The degree of pilling should be assessed using the following 5-point scale:
5 No pilling
4 Slight pilling
3 Moderate pilling
2 Severe pilling
1 Very severe pilling
When appearance falls between two of the descriptions given above half values
may be given.
Test: Abrasion resistance (Martindale) (ASTM D 4966)
Equipment: Martindale pilling and abrasion tester (Model M235)
Make: SDL ATLAS Ltd.
Page | 116
Test: Water repellency: Spray test (Test method: AATCC 22-2001)

Equipment: AATCC spray tester, beaker, distilled water
RATING CHART
100 (ISO 5) No sticking or wetting of upper surface
90 (ISO 4) Slight random sticking or wetting of upper surface
80 (ISO 3) Wetting of upper surface at spray points
70 (ISO 2) Partial wetting of whole of upper surface
50 (ISO 1) Complete wetting of whole of upper surface
0 (ISO 0) Complete wetting of whole of upper and lower surface
Test: Oil repellency: Hydrocarbon resistance test (Test method: AATCC
118-2002)
Equipment: Test liquids prepared and numbered according to the table,
dropping bottles, white AATCC textile blotting paper.
AATCC OIL REPELLENCY GRADE COMPOSITION
NUMBER
0
1
2
None (fails kaydol)

Kaydol
65:35 Kaydol:n-hexadecane by
volume
3
4
5
6
7
8
n-hexadecane
n-tetradecane
n-dodecane
n- decane
n-octane
n- heptanes
A failure occurs when three or more of the five drops applied from a given test
liquid show complete wetting or wicking with loss of contact angle. A pass
occurs if three or more of the five drops applied show clear, well rounded
appearances with high contact angle.
Test: Determination of the flammability and flame resistance of textile
fabric (Test method: IS: 11871-1986 Method A)
Equipment: Vertical Flame Resistance Tester by B.T.R.A.
Page | 117
Test: Protective clothing- Protection against heat and flame (Test method:
BS EN 532-1995) - Limited Flame Spread
Equipment: Horizontal Flame Resistance Tester
Gas used: Commercial grade propane gas
Testing atmosphere: Perform the tests in an atmosphere having a temperature
between 10oC and 30oC, a relative humidity between 15% and 80% and air
movement less than 0.2 m/s.
Test: Method for determining fire Resistance of coated and uncoated
textiles (Test Method: UIC 564-2)
Equipment: 45o Angle Flammability tester
Test: Method determining deterioration of visibility due to smoke released
on combustion of materials (Test Method: UIC 564-2)
Equipment: Deterioration of visibility due to smoke released tester
Test: Determination of flammability by oxygen index (Method: IS: 135011992)
Equipment: L.O.I test equipment by S.C.Dey & Co.
Page | 118
Warehouse
The warehouse at Jaya Shree Textiles contributes to two of the basic
features:
Inspection of Finished Fabric and Packaging
Inspection is the last procedure to check for any faults before the fabrics are
shipped out. Inspection is the process of checking the lengths of fabrics visually
or with the help of an inspection table.
Significance of inspection
Inspection of the fabrics helps in preventing overlooking of the errors that may
have been left out.
Inspection defined by ISO (International Standards Organization): The
purpose of inspection is to make a sound judgement on the disposition of a
material or product, whether to accept or reject it.
What is done with a rejected lot may be a matter of negotiation between a buyer
and seller.
Page | 119
Inspection Levels at Jaya Shree Textiles

Division
Checking
Method
Responsibility
Mending
Neps, Dhaga,
Knots
Manual Checking
Checker/
Supervisor
Grading (Buyer
wise)
Weaving,
processing,
Checking
Rolling and
Padding (Buyer
wise)
Than, roll size and Weighing

weight checking, machine, visually
roll to roll Shade
checking
Visually (Under
fault standard light)
Decorating Table Order checking

and Packing
and buyer wise
checking
Manually
Checker/
Supervisor
Checker
Packer or Data
Operator or
Supervisor
American 4-point inspection system

The 4-point system, also called American Manufacturers Association (AAMA)
point grading system for determination of fabric quality, is widely used by
producers of apparel fabrics.
Size of Defect (Length in Inches)
No. Of Penalty Points
3 inches or less
Over 3 inches but less than 6 inches
Over 6 inches but less than 9 inches
Over 9 inches
Holes and
dimensions)
Openings
(largest No. Of Penalty Points
1 inch or less
Over 1 inch
Page | 120
Total defect points/100 yd2 are calculated and normally those fabric rolls
containing more than 40 points/100 yd2 are considered seconds.
Notes:
Fabric will be inspected only on the side designated as the face by the
mill.
Fabric will be inspected for spinning or weaving or processing defects
and stains, holes, etc., and are graded according to the quality to grade A
and B.
No more than four points can be assigned to any 1m of fabric. All defects
must be flagged at the selvedge such that the flag can be detected from
either the back or face of the fabric during spreading and points are
documented.
The maximum points allowed per 100 linear meters: 30
The maximum no. of 4 points allowed per 100 linear meters: 4
No. of holes allowed per 100 linear meters: 3
Average points per lot per 100 linear meters: 25
Any holes will be penalized four points.
One type of defect resulting in single point allowed: 15 per 100 linear
meters
A repeating defect of 2 meters and above should not be allowed;
otherwise the roll should be rejected.
Minimum roll length: 20 meters
Four point inspection system is applicable for both PD and YD quality,
only for RMD.
Page | 121

Grey Fabric
Grey fabric received from weaving
Should match with technical sheets
Inspection on m/c using 4point system
Upto 3-1, upto 6-2, upto 9-3, 9 and

above 4 point system
Sending fabric to mending with

marking
Mender should follow making during

mending
After mending fabric sent to rolling

m/c
Yarn dyed fabric sent to folding m/c
After making roll, fold sent to grey

packing
Folded fabric sent to yarn dyed

location
Grey packed fabric sent to rack with

location
From yarn dyed location, job card

wise fabric issue to process
From rack, job card wise fabric issue

to process
Page | 122
Warehouse Machines at Jaya Shree Textiles

Two types of inspection machines are used:
1. Three Grading cum Padding Machines:
MAKE: True Shape
MODEL: Master
2. Five Inspection cum Rolling Machines:
MAKE: True Shape
MODEL: Master
- All fabrics are inspected on a inspection machine or frame equipped with a
variable speed motor as well as meter for measuring roll lengths. Frame is tilted
so that fabric passes at an angle between 45o and 60o off horizontal. During
inspection, the inspector must be able to stand at an appropriate distance from
inspection frame to ensure best possible visibility of fabric shading and defects.
- The frame is lighted with a minimum of two TLF-84 tubes parallel to each
other and perpendicular to the direction of fabric movement. The lights should
be four feet away from the section of fabric being inspected. The lights must
also be directly above the viewing area, at an angle of 60o.
- All machines have digital meter to calculate the total length of the fabric.
Inspection cum Rolling Machine
Page | 123
Fabric Double Rolling Machine:

Feed: Loose, Batch woven linen fabrics
Delivery: Rolled woven linen fabrics
Fabric Double Rolling Machine is a highly efficient tool for folding the fabric
with care. Original length and width is always maintained. Folding reduces
transportation and increases production.
Features:
Doubling, rolling, measuring any type of fabrics with inlet from plait/
loose fabrics, rolls or batchers and with outlet on rolls.
For proper folding, special systems for thin and sensitive fabrics.
Automatic alignment of selvedge on the doubling triangle with very
sensitive and precise photo- electric guide.
Reliable measuring with electronic calibrated counter meter system.
Hard or loose folding feature, due to torque controlled, from inlet of
fabric to end of the roll.
Automatic printing on selvedge, checking table, printing of measuring
Optional
Linear Fabric Roll End Cutter - Optional.
Page | 124
Inspection of Finished Fabric

Process Flow Chart of Inspection of Finished Fabric
OTC Y/Ds/White/PD's
Inspection and
Grading
Fresh Fabric
Stitching
Padding (M/C)
Decoration
Packing
Bar-Code
Page | 125
Step 1. Grading- This is divided into two parts- hand grading and machine grading.
In hand grading the fabric was inspected for defects and if any defect is found
they mark it and send the fabric back to process house.
In machine grading they use roller inspection machines for inspecting any type
of defect.
Grading Machine
Step 2. Stitching- This is done to make rolls for buyers. Some buyers want the
fabric in roll form and then stitching is done.
Making Than in Padding Mangle.
Step 3. Padding- This is done for retailers who want the cloth in Than form.
The padding machine folds the cloth and makes than out of it.
Page | 126
Figure 3Packed Fabrics
Decoration Table
Step 4. Decoration table- Here decoration is done i.e. the folded or rolled
fabric is packed and tags and labels are attached to it.
Bale Packaging
Step 5. Packaging and bale packing- The finished products are then packed
and stored for retail and the rest is sold as per order.
Page | 127
Step 6. Barcoding- The bales are scanned and their information is stored in
SAP.
Bar Coding
Software used in Barcoding
After all these steps the fabric is sent to respective buyers and some are stored
for retail purpose.
Packages Stored for Retail Purpose
Packaging Check
The packing requirements of the roll nos./ bale nos., piece length and piece nos.
with the contractual specifications are checked. The mode of packaging, i.e.,
Hessian/H.D.P.E or polythene sheet is compared.
Page | 128
Learning Interesting
Facts
A thorough knowledge of the industrial environment.
A thorough knowledge of the manufacturing processes in details.
The practical knowledge about all of the machines is known in
details.
Practical knowledge about the tests and the quality control
procedures.
Practical observation of the workings of the machines.
1. What is done with yarn rags that break during winding?
There was a chamber below the monitor screen of Autoconer with clear glass
where all the yarns that break due to unevenness get collected. The operator
emptied the chamber when it got filled and collected all the rags in a container.
We thought that it could be nothing more than waste and they would probably
sell it in scrap. But, to our amazement, it was sold at a price much higher that
we had imagined.
As we know that currency paper is made from 75% cotton and 25% linen. So
these rags are sent to the currency paper making industry. Moreover, the
currency paper is not technically a paper, but a fabric which has warp, weft, and
is woven and desized.
2. Why vat dyeing is done during night time?
The workers generally dye using vat in the night shift. I realized this when I had
to get few cones dyed in vat as a part of my project. Later, I got this doubt
cleared. Actually, while dyeing in reactive dyes, the machine has to be opened
after a couple of hours and the shade is checked to ensure that so far the dyeing
has took place properly, and whether or not any ingredients need to be increased
or removed. So, a supervisor and his team have to be present. Naturally, it is
more convenient in the day time. Whereas, vat dyeing involves a complex cycle
of making the dye soluble and then insoluble. So, it cannot be controlled even if
checked in between. Thats why vat dyeing is preferred in the night time as it
does not require monitoring.
Page | 129
3. What is Delave effect?

The winding of yarn on cheeses is done in such a way that they overlap and
intersect other yarns at an acute angle. At those overlapping points, the
penetration of dye is less, whereas it is more at other points. This creates a
patchy effect in the fabric produced, which is a characteristic feature of linen.
This is known as Delave effect.
Delave Effect
Cupping of Cones
4. Cupping of cones for vat dyeing

The most compact part of any package is edges or shoulders, where the yarn
turns the corner and this is the most difficult place to wet out and to penetrate.
Incomplete penetration will cause will cause it to dye lighter or not at all,
Cupping or crimping is the only workable solution to this problem. The edges
are rounded by applying pressure from hands.
Page | 130
5. Innovation by Aditya Birla: Conveyer belt below carding machine

The conveyer belt below the carding machine collects the noile (short fibres)
that is separated from Tow. This noile is used to make ropes and as filling in car
seats.
Conveyer Belt below Carding Machine
6. Motion of hands to detect which drop wire has dropped

The series of drop wires can be moved flowingly by the motion of hands. But at
the place where the wire has dropped, there is an obstruction. Thus the exact
position can be located.
Motion of hands to detect dropped wire
Page | 131
7. Weavers knot:
When any warp yarn breaks during weaving, it has to be tied. The knot used is
not a simple knot but a weavers knot in which the two yarns are so tightly fixed
that they cannot slip, and also the length of tails are minimum.
8. Keeping fishes in the final treated water at ETP:
The employees at Jayashree keep fishes in the treated water, to show the
effectiveness of their treatment, that the water is so clean that fishes are alive in
it.
9. Transportation devices
These power-driven chargeable Voltas transportation device, with a capacity of
3 tonnes were used in the plant for transportation of materials. A fully charged
vehicle has a back-up time of 8 hours.
Page | 132
Bibliography
Information collected through Industry Observation

Jaya Shree Textiles official website
Handbook on testing at Jaya Shree Textiles
Wikipedia
Industry Reports at Quality Control Department
Page | 133

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Aditya Birla Nuvo-Jaya Shree Textiles

Meezan Alam (BFT/14/1504)

Shivani Sneha (BFT/14/169)

Introduction to the Industry

Cultivating, Harvesting and

Jaya Shree Textiles

JAYA SHREE TEXTILES

HEAD OFFICE & PRODUCTION UNIT

suiting, shirting and dress materials

MT GET President Sr. VP

Figure 1.1 Flax Plant

Resilience: It has little resilience therefore it wrinkles a lot but there is a

The Brain of the Industry

Design & Development

Flow Chart of Design and Development

RMG (party buyer)

OTC (over the counter)

Bunch making of 100+/-10 gm

Making Yarn from Rove

Fiber separation and making

Drying of Wet Yarns

Fiber Parallelization and Fiber

Removal of Yarn Faults and

Making Rove from Sliver

Packing of Finished Material

Figure 2.1 Fibre packages stored in godown

The fibre packages are stored in two

Figure 2.3 Manual Segregation

Characteristics of the fibres

Figure 2.3 Hackling Machine

Figure 2.4 Hackling Machine

SOP of Hackling Machine

Length of hackling tool- 12inches (305mm)

Characteristics of the fibres

Figure 2.5 Gill Box

Figure 2.6 Bi-Coiler

Figure 2.7 Opening of flax

Flow Chart for Tow Processing

Gill Box 1 (input 8 end/output 1 end)

Bi Coiler (produces two slivers, both

Combing (input 24 ends/output 1 end)

Gill Box (bi coiler)

Re Combing (To align and straighten

1st Gilling (input 10 ends/output 1 end)

2nd Gilling (input 8 ends/output 1 end)

3rd Gilling (input 4 ends/output 1 end)

Finisher (input 3 ends/output 1 end)

Draft Count on the Basis of Flow Chart

SOP of Drawing Machine

Diameter of Front Roller

Diameter of Back Roller

SOP of Roving Machine

Figure 4.2 Roving Frame

Diameter of Front Roller

Diameter of Back Roller

Figure 5.1 Boiling Machine

Figure 5.2 Boiled Rove

Process Flow Chart for Boiling

Boiling with Caustic Soda at

First hot wash with soft water at

Second hot wash with soft water

Washing with CH3COOH at

Cold Wash with soft water at