Embroidery

01/06/2016
Saima Jafari, NIFT
The embroidery unit is situated in the C.I.P.L. building but is managed by the third
party. The space and utilities (electricity) is provided by C.I.P.L., but the machines
and manpower are provided by an outsourcing vendor (Design Plus Bd Ltd.)
No. of machines
Output per shift
Total manpower
No. of shifts
Avg. cycle time

4 (+1 sampling)
12,000 pcs.
36
2
4 minutes

There are a total of 5 embroidery machines in this unit: 4 for bulk production,
and 1 for sampling.
An outline of the pattern is drawn on the flat bed to ensure the correct
placement of the panels to be embroidered.
Adhesive tapes are also used to keep the panels stable on the bed.
The placement of the logo is checked by using a paper template and a rough
fabric.
Embroidery is done by the motion of the bed, and not the heads.
Stitch type: 301 (Lock stitch)
Total time required on the embroidery machine: 4 minutes
The machines are having a sensor which detects thread breakage, and stops
the machine. The operator then threads the machine manually.
The machines are computer- controlled. There is one computer attached to
these machines which is having separate soft wares for Tajima and Barudan.
Maintenance:
o Breakdown maintenance policy is followed. The machine downtime is
1-2 hours in a month.
o There is no preventive maintenance schedule apart from oiling the
machine every day (when bobbin makes noise). Sewing oil is used.
Generally occurring problems:
o Breakage of small parts in the heads.
o Technical problems in the digital design card.
Needle replacements: 1-2 in a day.
Design: The design to be embroidered is provided by the buyer in a digital
form. Sometimes, for a new design, the buyer gives the hard copy of the
image. DPs designer digitizes the image and programs the machine.
Thread consumption: 5 meter for each piece
The embroidery thread supplier is nominated by the buyer.
Shifts: The unit functions in both the shifts.
o Day shift: 8AM to 7PM

o Night shift: 7PM to 6AM

Order time: The changeover time for loading a new order can be from hour
to 5 hours.
Manpower: A total of 36 people work in both the shifts.
Operators
Helpers
Supervisors
Quality inspectors

8
8
1
1

Double layers of interlining (non-woven paper fusing) are put under the panels
as stabilizers for machine embroidery. It is gently torn away after the
embroidery is complete. Consumption per day: 180 yards.
20 watt LED task lights are used on each head in all the machines.
Type of head: If the head is linear (such as in Tajima), then only flat-laying
panels can be embroidered. But if the head is circular (Barudan), both flat and
curved surfaces (like a cap) can be embroidered.
The maximum number of colours that can be embroidered in this unit is 15. If
the logo contains more than 15 colours, it has to be outsourced.
Quality: Visual inspection of the:
o Position: Pattern is placed over the panel and the position is verified.
o Stitch: The stitch formation is checked for evenness.
o Visual appearance: The embroidered logo is matched with the
standards approved by the buyer.
Rejection and re-work:
o If any embroidery defect occurs, it is ripped and re-embroidered.
o If the defect is beyond repair, the panel is rejected. (DHU: 0.4)

Barudan multi-head embroidery machine

Manufacturer
No. of machines
No. of heads
Type of head
No. of colours
RPM

BARUDAN
2
20
Round
9
720-740

Tajima electronic multi-head automatic embroidery machine

Manufacturer
No. of machines
No. of heads
Type of head

TAJIMA
1
24
Linear

No. of colours
RPM

6
720

There are 24 heads, but only 12 function at a time. Each alternate head is
turned off because the heads are very close together and there is no enough
space under each head to place the panels. If the panels are folded and kept,
creases may come.

Barudan multi-head embroidery machine

Manufacturer
No. of machines
No. of heads
Type of head
No. of colours
RPM

BARUDAN
1
20
Linear
15
720

Barudan single-head embroidery machine (Sampling)

Manufacturer
No. of machines
No. of heads
Type of head
No. of colours

BARUDAN
1
1
Linear
15

The sampling machine is having 15 colours, as the maximum numbers of

colours that can be run in the unit are 15.

EMBROIDERY UNIT FLOW CHART

Design given by the

Program the machine

Sampling

Buyers approval

Not OK
OK

Setting sample as standard

Receive panels from

cutting & patterns
from CAD
Draw outline for
placement of panels
a/c to patterns
Mount panels

Embroidery

QC Audit

Not
passed

Passe
d
Delivery to
sewing

Rework/ Kill

Observations:
1. Task Lights
It was noticed that there were 20 Watt LED task lights on each head of the
machines. There was apparently no need of those task lights as the
machines were automatic and once the panels are placed there was no
human intervention in the embroidery process. The lights could have been
turned off once the correct placement is ensured.
It was told that it is the buyers requirement to have enough lux level at the
point to be embroidered.
2. Interlining
Double layers of interlining (non-woven paper fusing) were put under the
panels as stabilizers for machine embroidery. It was gently torn away after
the embroidery was complete. The interning was used in sheet form and
after each cycle, it was pulled and moved to position the un-torn part under
the point for the new cycle. There was a lot of wastage of interlining in this
way. Usage of interlining in strip form would have provided more efficiency.
It was told that the cost of interlining was very low. The cost of cutting it in
strip would have exceeded the current material cost.