Living My Dream

Cycling through Manali leh Khardungla Leh

Mission : Khardungla Calling

Mission Period: 14th August 26th August plus two days of touring in
Leh after the finish and a day of forced rest at Sissu due to rains.
Total Cycling days : 11
Rest Day : 01 (Forced rest at Sissu due to continuous rains)
Total days for the trip: 15 days
Total Cycling KMs : 569 KMs
Day wise planned target locations:
Kothi Marhi Sissu Jispa Zingzingbar Sarchu Pang Debring
Upshi Leh Khardungla (Back to Leh same day)
Mission statement: Fun and Photography

||

Mission Rules
1. We would always stay within the eye range of each other. If any
unfortunate incident happens, that would allow the other to act
timely. Phones mostly would not work for the entire trip.
2. We would not argue with each other and others to keep ourselves
positive through-out. Positive mindset was critical to success.
3. We would carry medicines for emergency situations only. No
precautionary medicine would to be consumed

4. We would not walk the cycle. We would pedal every inch.

We successfully managed all the four self inflicted disciplinary
postulates

Food: Mountain food Maggi and Omlette were available at all the
stopover locations. Thalis were also available with Moong sabut /
Rajma, mix vegetable, rice and chapattis. At few places, aloo paranthas
were also available. Variety of tea (Normal, Masala, Ginger and lemon)
was available at all the locations. We consumed tea in abundance to
keep ourselves warm and complete. Boiled eggs were denied at couple
of locations due to huge time required to boil at high altitudes. Details
are captured separately.

Snacks:
Chips, Kurkure and chocolates were available at most of the locations.
Few had real / Tropicana juice cans / Soft drinks as well. We consumed
tonnes of chocolates varying from Cadbury diary milk, BarOne and
Snickers along with routine assorted Almonds and Munnakka. Lays
plain salted chips never tasted so delicious and fulfilling. Snacks even
made up for a regular meal at times when we didnt find a designated
Dhaba to eat during our rides.

Cycle 29 Maximus @ Firefox brand

Card board packing box 5 x 3 x 10 (Arranged through local dealer @

Faridabad)

Clothes (Detailed list)

Apprehensive as ever, we carried bagful of clothes just to realize later
that almost 60 percent of the load could have been left behind.
Experience teaches. Wish we could find information on clothes as well
in the multiple blogs I read on Manali Leh trip.
List of attire carried (required / actually carried)
Clothing
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.

U/Wear 6 / 9
Half sleeves dry fit 6 / 11
Full sleeves dry fit 2 / 4
Shorts 2 / 6
Leggies 3/4th 2 / 2
Full sleeves fleece / Inner 1 / 2
Arm sleeves Optional / 3 pairs
Knee Bands 1 / 1 pair
Elbow bands 1 / 1 pair
Full sleeves light weight warm jacket 1 / 1
Flexible head scarfs 2 / 2
Mid sized handkerchief / towels 2 / 2
Socks 4 pairs
Small hand towels 3
Specs as per your choice / 2
Shoes Your choice / 1pair

17. Slippers Your choice / 1pair

18. Bathroom kit Your choice / 1set

Medicines
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.

Crocin strip
Combiflam strip
Disprin strip
Diamox strip
Oflox TZ
Savlon
Bandage
Bandage tape
Crape bandage
Band-Aid
Cotton pack small
Betadine tube

Please do not forget any specifically prescribed / regular medicine for

BP, sugar or Thyroid etc

Tools, spares and cycling accessories

1.
2.

Spare tyre per cycle 1 / 1 (We carried Maxxis tyre (29x2.1, 65 psi)
Two tubes per cycle 1 / 2

3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.

Allen key set upto 8 mm 1 / 1

Spanner 14/15 for pedals 1 / 1
Spanner as per the bolts in cycle carrier 1 / 1
Pedals 1 set / 1 set
Front head light 1500 lumens USB powered 1 / 1
Back light blinkers 1 / 1
Gear wire 1 set / 1 set
Brake wire 1 set / 1 set
Spokes 4nos / 4 Nos
Spokes driver 1 / 1
Screw driver 1 / 1
Puncture kit 1 / 1
Velcro bands 8 nos * 15 L * 1 width
Standard Air pump (Desi style) tied to the frame on the lower leg

Dry fruits and light snacks

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Bags

Almonds 500 gms / 500 gms

Chocolates as per your choice
Munakka 500 gms / 1 Kg
Dates @ 500 gms
Chips / Juices Can as per availability at shops enroute

1.
2.
3.
4.

Two Panier bags 15 ltrs each 1 / 1. Vinay Bhai carried 20 Ltrs bags
instead.
Back bag @ 15 ltrs on top of the carrier in between panier bags 15
ltrs 1 / 1
Front bag @ 15 ltrs tied to the handle bar 15 ltrs 1 / 1
Back pack bag@ 20 ltrs 1 / 1

The numbers can change basis what you actually carry. The bags were
all purchased from Decathlon stores @ Noida except the 20 ltrs panier
bags carried by Vinay. These were locally made as per the design shared
similar to 15 ltrs Decathlon bags.

Communication and photography accessories

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Mobile phone (Preferably BSNL and Airtel sim) 1 / 2

Charger cable as per phone 1 / 2
Fully charged power bank 10000 mAH 2 / 2
DSLR Camera @ Canon 1200D or as per availability 1 / 1
Spare battery for camera 1 / 1

Miscellaneous
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Polybags for securing used clothes

Polybags for rain protection of camera and electronic accessories
Multi socket for multiple charging
Black salt
Hydration bag @ 1 ltrs (Optional)
Water bottles @ 1 ltrs 2 / 2

7.

A big thick polythene for covering the entire bike in the

eventuality of rains

Expense summary
Total expenses @ 44344/- for two of us

Amount
4000
Transportation
17554

11990

Hotel Charges
Food

Spares
10800

The above doesnt include expenses incurred on buying BSNL SIM,

additional clothes and wearing accessories from Decathlon and other
stores.
Distances and infrastructure
Location
Kothi
Marhi
Sissu
Jispa
ZZ Bar
Sarchu
Pang
Debring
Upshi
Leh
Khardungla
Leh

Medical facility Network

Repairs
No
BSNL / Airtel
No
No
BSNL Only
No
Yes
BSNL Only
No
No
BSNL Only
No
No
No network
No
No
Satellite Phone
No
No
No network
No
No
No network
No
Yes
BSNL Only
No
Yes
BSNL / Airtel
Yes
No
No network
No
Yes
BSNL / Airtel
Yes

Accomodation
Food
Brick and Mortar
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
Tented only
Yes
Tented only
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes
No
Yes
Brick and Mortar / Tented
Yes

Distance @ Manali KMs

14
36
86
139
179
226
304
351
435
486
527
569

Altitude summary stopover destination wise

Altitude Summary
Onward Journey
Location
Faridabad
Mode
Innova
Altitude Mtrs
198
Return Journey
Location
Mode

Delhi Manali Kothi

Volvo Cycle Cycle
216
1950
2506

Marhi Sissu Jispa ZZBar Sarchu Pang Debring Upshi Leh Khardungla Leh
Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle
Cycle Cycle Cycle
Cycle
3330 3130 3274 4340 4300 4600 4646 3400 3425
5359
3425

Leh
Manali Delhi Faridabad
Tempo Traveler Volvo Innova Innova

Passes enroute to Khardungla from Manali.

Rohtang Pass @ 3980 Mtrs Enroute to Sissu from Marhi
Baralachla Pass @ 4890 Mtrs Enroute to Sarchu from ZZbar
Nakeela Pass @ 4952 Mtrs Enroute to Pang from Sissu
Lachungla Pass @ 5097 Mtrs Enroute to Pang from Sissu
Tanglangla Pass @ 5328 Mtrs Enroute to Upshi from Debring
Khardungla Pass @ 5359 Mtrs Onwards from Leh, Its falsely claimed at
5602 Mtrs though.

Simulation
It was extremely critical and important for us to test ride the fully
loaded cycles along with the carrier fitment robustness before leaving
to test the feasibility and stability of the bikes, to avoid unfortunate
uncalled surprises over next two weeks. Although the test conditions
were far better than what we were going to face and that could not
even be perceived on plains.
Despite the fact, the conditions of Manali Leh route could never be
simulated at home, the stability of cycle in terms of reliability and

ability of the carrier with fitted bags and equipment gave us

tremendous confidence that the hardware should be able to withstand
the ride to Leh. In July, a month before our planned dates to Leh, I
could ride for only couple of days after which I had to travel to meet my
work commitments and lost track of cycling. It got compounded as I
could not even indulge into my favorite alternate in running as I fell sick
at Chandigarh. It continued almost till the very last day till 14th August
2016, the day to leave for Manali.

The beast at home, fully loaded

Time to pack stuff

The things were packed and a reference list was made specific to match
the bag count for easy handling although it got all scrambled up the day
when we finally left due to packing and repacking the stuff and
repeating till very last hour.
We tied up all the four bags to the cycle carrier and rode some distance
in and around our home on the morning of 14th August for checking the
robustness of the bags and carrier and the ability to pedal. Sudden rain
cut it short. May be Lord directed us to rest and feel relaxed.

The practice ride at home and actual quality along with off roads on
Manali - Leh route were poles apart and that completely outlived our
practice at home. That was logically obvious while our expectations
were amateur.

Time to leave
Day 0 (14th Aug 2016)
Faridabad Delhi ISBT Kashmere Gate - Manali

Volvo (HRTC Delhi Manali, Online booked through Redbus)

We had finalized 14th August to leave for Manali. The D - moment had
arrived. We began packing cycles at Vinay Bhais place around 9am on
14th August and the first experience of dismantling the cycle (the front
tyre, pedals, handles, front mud guard and carrier) took us almost 5
hours. The majority of the time was consumed by dismantling the
pedals. We even had to visit a cycle shop to understand the turning
directions of the pedals. Right pedal would open towards the left side
and Left pedal would open towards the right side. We were students at

packing cycles. New learnings. Next time it should be a cakewalk

expectedly
Finally the cycles were packed inside the boxes and ready for
transportation. The pedals, spare tyre and carrier were all adjusted
inside the box before sealing it with packing tape of 2 with some loose
card boards and paper stuffed inside to provide for the safety of spokes
and gear shifter mechanism specifically. Each box weighed about 11920 Kgs including the box itself.
I came back home and took shower before I finally left for my brothers
place after bidding bye to Rashmee, my life support system. The Innova
arrived at 4.45pm.
Both the boxes were just big enough to be adjusted inside the vehicle
by folding the back seat and one of the middle row seat. The box sizes
were 5x3x10 and there were two boxes.
The Volvo Himachal tourism bus (booked online) timing was at 7.30pm
from stand no 19 Kashmere gate, ISBT Delhi. As the situation happened,
we were not able to carry the cycle boxes inside the bus terminal owing
to small size of the scanning machines at the entry points and fear of
security personal opening due to extra security checks as a routine on
the eve of independence day. We didnt take any chances. I boarded
the bus without any baggage from inside the terminal for blocking the
reserved seats and my brother waited at Majnu ka tila just after the red
light point along with cycle boxes still inside the vehicle. Proactively, I
had requested for reserved vacant dedicated space inside the bus boot
for boxes by talking to the luggage man at the bus terminal as our stuff
was to be loaded later. He had obliged.

I had already spoken to the bus conductor about the arrangement and
driver was cooperative enough to stop the bus at Majnu ka tila @
7.50pm and get our stuff loaded carefully.
The first target was achieved in style.
Volvo started racing towards the destination Manali. Inside seated on
our seats, we were completely gungho about the ensuing ride next day
from Manali. The supper destination was at Mannat Haveli, Ambala at
10.30pm, scheduled 40 mins halt. Only the toilets were good. Every
item was overpriced above MRP. Vinay Bhaiya had carried home
prepared Rajma Rice. He savored the meal while I avoided for my own
fixation with diet during night travel by bus to keep myself light.
Honestly it was real task to keep my temptation locked for my favorite
rajma rice meal and that too while being served in the immediate
neighborhood.
Thereafter , the bus stopped at multiple locations for accommodating
the natures call including full fledged 30 minutes early morning
stoppage at Mandi at 6am.
I could not sleep in the bus out of my unfortunate inability to sleep in a
moving vehicle, how much comfortable it might be. But then I was
prepared.

Day 1 (15th Aug 2016)

Manali Kothi (Independence Day ride)
Distance 13.8 Kms
Elevation gain 1950 mtrs to 2506 Mtrs
Time to start: 1pm
Time to end: 4pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks: 7.6Kms/Hr
Network: Airtel and BSNL
We reached Manali at 8.30am after a morning stopover at Mandi along
the inviting and charming Bias river on our right.

Early morning hours at Mandi

We had plans to cycle out of Manali till Kothi after reconciling our
cycles, carry bags and a bit of rest on the day 1 itself. Our carry bags
and cycle boxes got unloaded. Search was initiated for any hotel or
guest house which can accommodate us for 3-4 hrs and assure secure
storage of our cycle boxes meant for packing back our cycles for return
journey at a reasonable price. After couple of denials and failures, Raj
palace close to the Main Manali lane, accepted my proposal while
Vinay bhai took care of the luggage and cycles at the bust terminal @
Manali. Caretaker Sunil@ 9857725642 was polite enough and agreed to
store our cycles for fifteen days @ Rs 500/-. He also charged Rs 300/separately for us to retire and freshening up for few hours required
after a strenuous ride from Delhi. We ate paranthas along with tea at
next door restaurant before unpacking the cycles. Vinay bhai, the
expert, quickly got into the act of unpacking the boxes and putting the
parts together while I played my designated support role as second

fiddle and within next one hour both the cycles were ready to go. We
had learnt packing.

Raj palace, Manali,

Where we secured our precious cycle boxes

Preparing the beasts

We took shower and got ready while reviewing the stuff packed in our
bags. We were ready to go.

The bags were loaded, some pictures clicked before we moved first
pedal towards Leh at 1pm. The plan was to reach Kothi @ 13.8 Kms
away from Manali for the first stop over. The ride started with
immediate elevation and it continued till Kothi. The total elevation gain
was 560 Mtrs till Kothi. It was an uphill task and served us the first real
feel of the Manali Leh ride and still it was low altitude compared to
what was in the offing. We had clearly realized without any
assumptions in our mind that uphill wouldnt be easy. On top of that I
was out of cycling routine for last 15 days due to sickness and my tired
soul out of overnight travel without any serious sleep clearly reflected
in my crippled first days ride.

Unfortunately, the gear shifter of Vinay Bhaiyas cycle faltered just after
2 Kms from Manali. Fortunately the lower gears were OK as the uphill
would be mostly on gear combination 1 / 4-3-2-1.

First forced break just outside Manali to settle gear shifter issue @
Vinay Bhais cycle
For the initial few Kms, we cycled along river Beas. The flow was
opposite to our ride. The view was getting only better with every pedal.

Partying view of Manali from some distance

We had our first lunch at Him Caf towards right side just before the
bridge that leads to Kothi. It had nice arrangement for toilet too.

Nice facility at Him Caf, Just before Kothi

The highlight of the day was Vinay Bhais effort. He cruised quite
smoothly and looked comfortable. Vinay Bhaiya did much better on day

1 and that kept had a cascading effect on my spirits too. It pushed me

too. I had actually thought Kya panga le liya and this thought
haunted me quite frequently initially. It seemed that the cycle was just
too heavy and It was actually the thought rather the weight of cycle
that made the uphill ride too difficult. While we were resting on the
steps of an open shop with no one inside, we met young local
braveheart Mr. Raj Takhur, actually the owner of shop, renting warm
suits for Rohtang pass tourists. On chatting, we learnt that he had done
Manali Rohtand Lahaul spiti round journey in 3 days on a rented cycle
covering 89 KMs on either side. The inspiration derived from such
stories gets reinforced in ones belief specially on such resilient mission.
And it did.
Finally we rested our ride at Kothi at 430pm and stayed at Hotel Sagu
Valley on our right.

Hotel Sagu Valley, Kothi

We were pleasantly surprised to see nice facility with large rooms with
100% wooden interiors and 24 hours hot water supply. While we locked
the room with the power key, the hot water geezer wouldnt get off.
This was real customer focus. We had even kept the cycles inside the
room. Kothi is a magnificent village located at the foothills of Rohtang
pass. The river beas is seen flowing through a very narrow gorge at this
point and the location offers the first scenic beauty of Manali Leh route.
I could upload my ride using strava using the Airtel network. It was not
available inside the hotel. We had to cross the road to the opposite side
to access the network.

After a refreshing shower and much needed rest had sumptuous dinner
in the restaurant along with clicking some photographs in the dark
outside. We retired to bed at 9pm for the next day crusade to Marhi. I
slept like a baby.

Day 2 (16th Aug 2016)

Kothi Marhi
Distance 21.3 Kms
Elevation gain 2506 mtrs to 3330 Mtrs
Time to start: 8.45am
Time to end: 3.30pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks: 8.1 Kms/Hr
Network: Airtel and BSNL (Voice only and no data network from the
terrace of the only temple in town on the right side)
We got ready around 7.30am and had breakfast in the restaurant. The
morning sun was out and the weather got pleasant welcoming our
target ride to Marhi. Clicked lot of pics before leaving for Marhi at
8.45am

Savoring Mother Nature at Kothi

The ride was along the mesmerizing and picturesque green mountains
and deep gorges with lot many waterfalls alongside out of the glacial
melts. Nice sunny weather complimented our day 2 effort. Honestly
the ride was very tough again as the body was still taking time to
acclimatize to the uphill and the associated oxygen limiting altitude
challenge. It appeared at times that Leh challenge might have to be
surrendered. I got myself together and chanted Leh Leh Leh looking at
the sky. Might be God was listening. Yes indeed, it was. There was a
downhill just before Marhi leading to a small water reservoir. Just as we

thought that we were done for the day, we could see a steep uphill
leading to a temple. That was Marhi. The sight of uphill dampened our
spirits a little.
Mother natures magnetic charm subdued our fatigue of uphill and kept
ON hunger for more and more serving blissful surroundings and scenic
beauty. Mother nature was very supporting and pushy.

Picturesque route to Marhi

We pushed ourselves for the last stride to reach Marhi alive. It rained a
little towards the end. We reached Marhi after another extremely
taxing ride. Vinay Bhaiya was doing lot better and that had a very
positive compounding effect on my own motivation level and
willpower. Thats the power of team. Positivity is exponential. I had
survived first two days.

Marhi is a very small town @ 3330 mtrs with very crudely built roadside
restaurants, few of which even offered shabby accommodation. Tented
accommodations were also available, although we didnt check.
I was too tired to search. Vinay Bhai took the lead. I enquired about
hotel Sagu supposedly branch of the facility at Kothi. The facility was
not at all comparable with Kothi. It offered split facility, room in one
dilapidated building and washroom about 50 mtrs away across the
road. Vinay bhai enquired about the only government guest house
which accepted pre booked tourists (from Kullu). The caretaker over
there had no idea of the booking status and had to just wait endlessly
every day for any surprise booked tourists, else it ends up vacant. God
bless the dilapidated governance. The facility looked good from outside
but it had everything out of order as per the candid and forthright
caretaker.

Govt guest house, Marhi

Caretaker at suggested to attempt Chamba. Finally we checked into
Chamba restaurant, on the right side of the road across the hotel sagu
and temple. The owner was unexpectedly very rude and looked

perennially annoyed. However the support staff was accommodating

and we finalized a room with multiple beds with all ours. We could
manage to get two buckets of hot water as well for the much needed
bath.
The network availability was terribly pathetic and one had to climb the
terrace adjacent to main temple at Marhi, across the road. Fortunately
we could make calls to home from BSNL number. Airtel network
showed up intermittently but calls could not mature. The ride could not
be uploaded on strava. Still it was recorded on GPS platform.

Temple at Marhi

Mesmerizing Marhi
I could manage to wash my T- shirt and attempted drying it across the
common temporary corrugated metal sheet wall erected at the ongoing
construction work for expansion of Chamba hotel, outside our room.
The toilet facility was shabby. We had heavy dinner in the night and
retired to bed at 9pm. Not to mention, we slept like baby again. Sleep
had suddenly found me that eluded me for years at home. That is
mother natures motherhood. The cycles rested alongside us inside the
room.
During the evening while making calls from the terrace of temple, we
had met young Ketan Bhanushali, solo cyclist hailing from Mumbai
attempting the same Manali Leh route. We had little but hugely
motivating talk with him. His attempt that too solo was quite brave and
inspiring. His primary passion was into trekking. He was extremely fit
and sporty.

Day 3 (17th Aug 2016)

Marhi Sissu
Distance 50.4 Kms
Elevation Profile Marhi@ 3330 Mtrs to Rohtang @ 3980 Mtrs to
Koksar @ 3160 Mtrs and Sissu @ 3130 Mtrs
Time to start: 7.50 am
Time to end: 5.00 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks: 11.1 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and only BSNL (Voice only and no data network,
Only facebook worked offline on BSNL)
Day 3 was strategically very significant. Rohtang Pass @ 13058 feet
distanced 17 KMs from Marhi, first of the five passes till Leh was to be
vanquished today. The stakes were high as the outcome for the evening
would pave the way for rest of the ride. We got up timely at 5am. Got
ready and after having breakfast, we prepared our cycles. The initial
two days of slow ascend had acclimatized us stronger and cemented
our conviction to get ready for the battle. We were completely in it and
all for the challenge. The bright and sunny day reassured our faith.

Chamba Dhaba, Marhi

We started making strides at 7.50am and made good progress as
expected. Even after moving 5 KMs, beguiling Marhi town was in sight
from the top. We kept on pedaling and shooting pictures. Most of the
time shooting dominated pedaling. Well the temptation to shoot the
unadulterated and alluring landscape majorly dominated our ride. After
first two days of strenuous ride, my energy levels were back and
pushing me. I had begun.

Weather miraculously changed as we inched near Rohtang Pass

Capturing the captivating nature actually became the fodder for
forward movement. By the time we inched closure to Rohtang Pass, the
weather outlook changed drastically to foggy and cloudy. Weather was
utterly unpredictable in mountains. We reached the pass at 12.30pm
and rain Gods sort of welcomed us. We were madly happy to make it.

After few shoots in front of the mid-sized Rohtang Pass signage, we

decided to leave immediately for the target destination at Sissu due to
rains. One of the onlooker at our request shot us enacting the famous
Dharam Veer pose where cycles replaced the horses with our
achievement in the background. The fear of getting our cycles wet
made us refuse tea against our wish to a gentle local lady selling
readymade tea carried inside a mobile container. We had ascended to

3980 Mtrs from the launching elevation of 3330 mtrs at Marhi. That
was victory of sorts as we had made our first of the five passes. We
started descending with loads of confidence with rain droplets trickling
down our clothes and cycles. Initial descent of 2.5 KMs from Rohtang
pass had splendid tar road. Shockingly it digitally vanished after that
and we were in for one of its kind sort of off road descent for
approximately 16 KMs till Koksar and that too quite muddy and
slippery.

Enroute to Koksar
The tar road went absent and it had only muddy passageway full of
loose rocks and mountain gravels providing for one of the most
challenging off road descent of our life. Vinay Bhaiyas Sony Xperia Z
mobile came handy in capturing the video of this unique experience.
My bag on top of the carrier came down twice during the descent and I
had to fortify the tying arrangement in the middle of the wet and
muddy (Kicchadd) road. The experience was dangerous yet awesome.
We reached Koksar@3160 mtrs at 3.30pm.

Everest Food Plaza, Koksar

The missing tar road though broken reappeared. Fortunately we had
sighted a small restaurant Everest Food plaza on the right side at the
very beginning of Koksar. We were totally wet with dirt all over.
Welcome aboard. We had tea and omlette galore. Indeed we had
earned our much needed break for the day.

Destination Sissu was further 12 KMs away. The route all along the river
Chandra on the left was a magnificent prospect and motivation. We got
past a bridge just after the Koksar town as we cycled towards Sissu

town. I fell down just before the bridge trying to get down. It affected
my left arms elbow a little.

Bridge after Koksar

We clicked few photos at the location where Rohtang tunnel@ 8.8 KM
under construction would open before Sissu town. It was slated to

reduce the distance between Manali to Keylong by 60 KMs. Clicking

photos was simpler task.

Enroute to Sissu

Rohtang Tunnel, Under construction

Sissu town
We reached tranquil and serene town of Sissu at 5pm. The government
guest house story was replayed as an exact copy of Marhi. We were
lucky to sight homestay titled Tashi Yank Khil @ 9459017904. The
facility had 24 hours mineral water supply. We immediately washed our
cycles and ourselves to rediscover the hardware we had carried. The
room size was big enough for two and had electrical rod for acquiring
hot water. Just as we had settled, Ketan Bhanushali seemingly lost,
arrived. Struggling for getting shelter, he requested us space and we
were three in the room intead of earlier two. Had delicious dinner and
slept early with plans to leave for destination next Jispa the following
morning.

Homestay @ Sissu

View outside from Window @ Home stay Sissu

Day 4 (18th Aug 2016)

Sissu Jispa
Time to start: Forced rest owing to continuous rains
Mother nature had its plans. It forced a rest day upon us, although it
made us little restless in the morning as our rhythm got interrupted.
Vinay bhai honestly wanted to leave not caring for the rains. The first
half of the day was dominated by
1. Regular look at the skies praying for relief from rain Gods
2. Tying and untying the bags to the cycle.
After waiting till 11am, we gave up and accepted the Lords verdict. We
relaxed and enjoyed the rest day as much as we could without internet.
We slept and ate and repeated it for rest of the day. Honestly, decision
to stay back proved to be correct in the end. Mother nature had

already put dates to our ride schedule. We should have plainly obliged
at the first place.
We also met two Israeli adventurers staying alongside our room who
were in India for last four months exploring India on purchased Avenger
Bikes. Those bachelors were on repeat visit to India. They were on to
Manali after finishing Leh and Lahaul Spiti. Rains held them back as well
for a day.
I clicked lot of pics around the homestay capturing the little farming
over there enjoying a rainy yet serene day.

Ketan had also stayed back.

Day 5 (19th Aug 2016)

Sissu - Jispa
Distance 52.9 KMs
Elevation Profile Sissu @ 3130 Mtrs to Gondala@ 3200 Mtrs to Tandi
@ 2570 Mtrs to Keylong @ 3080 Mtrs to Jispa @ 3274 Mtrs
Time to start: 7.15 am

Time to end: 5.00 pm

Average Moving time excluding breaks (Sissu keylong): 12.3 Kms/Hr
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Keylong Jispa): 12.2 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and only BSNL (Voice only and no data network,
Only facebook worked offline on BSNL)

We launched ourselves early after settling the finances at homestay

and securing the bags after enjoying the days rest behind us.

Town of Sissu while we left for Jispa

Had heard about Aliyaas restaurant about a KM from there on the left,
from one of the paying guests at Homestay we were in. Unfortunately,
the staff was not up and ready that early hours to accommodate us for
the first meal of the day. Half hearted, we proceeded few hundred
meters and found PLM Dhaba on the right. It had nice arrangement for
accommodation as well. After feeding ourselves with omlettes and
slices of bread, we left for destination Jispa. The visiting card of PLM
Dhaba had complete route map printed on it till Pang.

PLM Dhaba just after Sissu

The days ride began with mix of some mild uphill and flat for initial 10
KMs to Gondola, abundantly green hamlet. There were cauliflower (my
favorite vegetable) fields all along the road. The initial ascent was
followed by gradual descent till Tandi @ 2875 Mtrs, 25 Kms away from
Sissu. The downhill was predominantly off road with road construction
work in progress in splits. We sighted one idle Escorts Dynapac on the
roadside and break followed for animated poses and pictures.

A little further we met very inspiring and strong as a horse, foreign

couple on cycles pedaling in from the opposite direction. The cycles
were fully loaded with systematic arrangement of bags occupying both

the wheels. We captured some moments together before moving our

ways.

We reached Tandi@ 2875 Mtrs soon and were awestruck at the view of
confluence of Chandra River on our side of the road and Bhaga River
coming in from the right. They merged together to form Chandrabhaga
which finally transforms into Chenab.

Simultaneously, the thought of descending back to approx 2800 mtrs

dampened the struggle and efforts invested to reach 3980 mtrs at
Rohtang Pass. The remaining passes were all towering comparatively.
The journey had to be rediscovered multiple times. Haha This is what
makes this stretch one of the toughest in the world. Once you are into
the trap, there is no going back as its uphill on either side to freedom.

The cost of achieving supremacy is high and payment is mandatory. We

must prepare every day. That is Manali Leh route.
There was another group of six foreigners led by an Indian cyclist and
coordinator riding alongside us with huge support luxury bus following
them. They kept on chanting Namastey to anyone making an eye
contact. All of them possessed wild energy levels. All in all, a very
interesting and inspiring set of people.
We stopped over at Tandi bridge built over Bhaga river for some
captures and bought some snacks as well for replenishing our tummies
for rest of the ride. Incidentally we met with a huge hoard of sheeps on
the Tandi bridge and no prizes for guessing what next. It was time to
shoot and capture the incredible ongoing experience.
After a brief stopover and photo shoot at the Tandi bridge, we resumed
our ride for Keylong, all uphill till we brushed with Keylong 0 milestone.
The field of vision all along the route was all very green, pretty and
panoramic. The last 4 KMs were again broken pieces of tar road and off
road as it involved a passage through gorge forming a cleavage
between two mountains with bridge connection at the V of the
cleavage to move to the other side.

Keylong@3080 Mtrs appeared to be the first of the location with shade

of a realistic town since we had left Manali supporting basic facilities. It
had shops for motorbike repairs as well.
Nalwa guest house appeared on our right immediately after we
reached the town. We didnt get any space inside as six foreigners
occupied all the existing tables using the entire facility as a single dining
hall. That provided us with the opportunity to try and explore
alternatives and as the fate would have been, we found Mentokling
guest house and restaurant again on our right after cycling few meters
that was destined to serve us one of the best toothsome meal on the
entire route. Meal comprising mixed vegetable along with chapattis
was well served and extremely inviting. We found sufficient time to
charge our mobiles through the multi socket electrical board available
near the reception counter. It had temporary toilet facility without the

door as well. Another opportunity to try out your singing skills to keep
the enemies at bay

The main market / Keylong town was downhill on the right. It had ATM
facility as well from SBI. The owner of the restaurant informed us about
another on the way at Gemur towards Jispa.
After serving our tummies the much needed fodder, we resumed our
ride for destination Jispa. Uphill immediately started to absorb the
calories eaten at Keylong. The gradual upstream continued till 17 KMs
from Keylong. I replenished cash at SBI ATM on the right side of the
road at Gemur town approx 18 KMs ahead of Keylong.
The last mile of the day about 3 KMs mild uphill culminated into Jispa @
3274 Mtrs at 5pm.

Nice accommodation at Jispa

The location boasts of some of the best camping (tented) locations
along the riverbank on the right. We checked into Himalaya home stay
on our left just before the Ibex Jispa. We were accommodated on 2nd
floor and the room had all the amenities of any urban locale. The entire
facility was superintended by a young and very polite woman. The rain
continued to play hide and seek. The cycles were secured inside the
lobby on ground floor during the night. After a succulent dinner inside a
makeshift tent outside serving as dining hall, we retired into bed at
9.15pm
Ketan had also traveled to Jispa and found space in the same home stay
on first floor as well.

Day 6 (20th Aug 2016)

Jispa Zing Zing Bar (ZZBar)
Distance 39.3 KMs
Elevation Profile Jispa @ 3274 Mtrs to Darcha @ 3360 Mtrs to Patseo
@ 3734 Mtrs to Zingzingbar @ 4340 Mtrs
Time to start: 8.20 am
Time to end: 4.40 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Jispa ZZbar): 8.2 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and No BSNL
The route to ZZbar was all uphill and this day was scheduled to
transform our rides above 4000 Mtrs for next few days. The souls had
greatly acclimatized in sync with depleting oxygen at altitudes. Yet the
altitude challenge stayed. Our partners in crusade our cycles were in
great shape. The ride commenced at 820 hrs and we pedaled towards
Darcha @ 3360 Mtrs about 7 KMs ahead of Jispa. The initial 3 KMs to
Darcha was uphill followed by a mild descent to Darcha.

It had a checkpost for registration of tourists. Cyclists were spared.

Cyclists are spiritual. We bought snacks and guava juice can @
Tropicana as supplies for rest of the day from the roadside shops just
before the bridge. After clicking photographs across the bridge, the ride
recommenced towards Patseo, our luncheon target. The road after the
bridge had direct access to Darcha town, while we remained on the
highway on our left. We were cerebrally prepared for the continuous
uphill ascent slated for the day. The ride was going to be slow but
steady. We reached Patseo @ 3734 Mtrs at 12.30pm, 13 KMs ahead of
Darcha. The only tented location offering limited mountain diet had a
small lake (Deepak Taal) associated with it. Weather had gone real cold
complimented by mild sporadic rains and winds.

After feeding our ever wanting tummies, we proceeded for Zingzingbar

at 1.15pm, target destination for the day. The uphill seemed never
ending. We measured altitude of 3938 Mtrs, 6 KMs ahead of Patseo
and 4013 Mtrs 11 KMs ahead of Patseo. After cycling for 13 KMs, we
reached ZZbar at 3.17pm @ 4083 Mtrs. Before we could even celebrate
the days culmination, Ketan who was ahead of us and reached ZZbar 0
milestone shared a dampener. The milestone bearing ZZBar 0 KMs was
the government location where few construction workers camped. The
genuine ZZbar where the cyclists / bikers rest / retire was still 6 KMs
ahead. Now that needed real push as our souls had shut down for the
day. There was no choice. We carried ourselves on our own shoulders
on top of the cycles for the rest of the ride to ZZBar @ 4340 Mtrs. The
clock read 4.40pm.

We checked into Peace Caf@ Prop Dorje Mobile 9418606269

(although it wont work for lack of network), one of the tented
locations on our left side. The toilet was outside without roof and
shared. It was Indian with a cemented makeshift arrangement. The
caretaker Mr. Thailen was overly polite and caring. We refreshed
ourselves in open with hot water made available to us in limited
quantity. It was ice cold initially and it got better as we acclimatized
over next few hours. I could also rinse few of my clothes to remove the
stink. Thailen spread them across the kitchen to expedite drying.
Indeed a very noble human being. He shared his family details and
claimed that his wife sold stuff at a stall in Tibetan market Faridabad.
In the night when I got out to piss, I havent sighted this clear sky in my
life. There were millions and billions of stars, with clear visibility of

distant milkyway. I stood for almost 10 minutes hypnotized and under

some magical spell looking the distant galaxy. I believe I was virtually
inside Paradise. God was very close. God bless ZZBar for hosting us.
We met Mr Vishal Bhanushali, an avid and pro motorbiker owning KTM
250cc from Mumbai. We were in a shock to learn that he used to cover
850-1000 KMs a day @ 120-130 KMs/hr. I was confused to categorize
whether that was bravo or plain madness. All in all, Vishal was a very
interesting and gracious gentleman to speak to. While we were retiring,
a bikers gang arrived looking for accommodation. They were 8 of them.
They finally joined. We felt good for Thailens business.
No electricity and No communication tower. Generator was switched
ON at 7pm till 10pm for facilitating the dinners and charging of
electronic stuff.

Day 7 (21st Aug 2016)

Zing Zing Bar ZZBar Sarchu
Distance 47.3 KMs
Elevation Profile ZZBar @ 4340 Mtrs to Barlacha la @ 4890 Mtrs to
Sarchu @ 4300 Mtrs
Time to start: 7.33 am
Time to end: 3.30 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (ZZBar Sarchu): 10.5 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and No BSNL (Satellite phone facility can be
availed)

As we left for Sarchu, we clicked selfies with Vishal and the owner Mr.
Thailen.

Vishal Bhanushali, Super Motobiker : Thailen the Napalees Owner

We sighted four riders from Chennai getting their stocks ready outside
the tent just ahead of ours. The ride to Sarchu was appraised as very
significant as it would entail moving past Baralachala Pass @ 4900 Mtrs
while reaching Sarchu @ 4300 Mtrs.

The distance to peak was 15 KMs uphill with a uneven mix of tar road,
partly tar, stoney and rough off road. We measured altitude at 4512
Mtrs and 4870 Mtrs at 5 Kms and 11.7 Kms ahead of ZZbar respectively.
We were gradually and steadily peaking at an enduring pace. The clock
showed 11.15am at Baralachala Pass.

We spent a while at the top clicking pictures capturing our moments of

successful seize of 2nd pass of the trip. It started raining and wind was
chilly.

After careful maneuvering the pace and route, we reached Bharatpur

@ 4700 Mtrs after cycling 2 KMs in rains, ahead of the pass. My hands
had gone numb. We secured our cycles under a temporary roof and
warmed ourselves with couple of tea pots. It appeared to be small
hamlet with mostly tented and temporary outfits. Thereafter we
launched for sarchu 30 KMs ahead of Bharatpur. The road was very

rough with a benefit that it was all downhill till Sarchu. The green
vegetation had completely faded away.

After cycling about 7 KMs from Bharatpur, there comes a location

named Killing Sarai with some military establishment. Just after
crossing the bridge, the rider would come across two off roads. Take
the straight off road. Off road continues till it opens up inside
mesmerizing and very large valley.

The road gets better and the wind direction decides the comfort of the
ride. We were lucky. The wind coupled with downhill propelled us into
the valley at supersonic speeds.

One can sight lot many tented options about 5 Kms to Sarchu @ 4300
Mtrs and it continues till the last known border town of Himachal
alongside J&K.

We were done for the day. We checked into unnamed tented outfit
owned by Rinku on our left. It was very professionally managed with
separate, hygienic and totally encaged english toilet. We settled into a
dormitory tent with just two of us. I literally begged for hot water for
ourselves which the owner finally obliged. The bright sun and heavy
wind worked out to be perfect recipe for washing the clothes and
getting them dried up in time. The opportunity was fully realized. I
visited nearby establishment of BRO to make a satellite call back home
appraising them of our safety. Initially sounding rigid, Rinku turned out
to be wonderful host and we had our delicious dinner served
professionally in very good quality cutlery. We were surprised. The cook
was perfect and accomodating. Rinku shared the challenges to maintain
the setup as he had paid Rs 55000/- to the government for leasing that
space for 120 days and that was the concluding part of the window for
the season. He didnt make the desired money. He had to pack up
everything by 15th Sep 16 and leave for Manali. No electricity and No
communication tower. Generator was switched ON at 7pm till 10pm for
facilitating the dinners and charging of electronic stuff.
The foursome Chennai gang rented a tent for four in other outfit
neighboring us. It felt amazing to be progressing together.

Two motobikers arrived in the night and rented separate tents. Our
dormitory had just two of us. We felt little sad for Rinkus business.
The skyline was magical and magnificent and continued from ZZbar;
urban population is deemed to miss the sight. One could see not only
billions of starts but far starts from other milky ways too. God
appeared virtually very near. We felt like guests in the Gods own
paradise.
We retired to our beds at 9.30pm

Day 8 (22nd Aug 2016)

Sarchu Pang
Distance 78.5 KMs
Elevation Profile Sarchu @ 4300 Mtrs to 21 Gata loops start @ 4201
Mtrs to end @ 4667 Mtrs to Nakeela Pass @ 4952 Mtrs to Lachungla
Pass @ 5097 Mtrs to Pang @ 4600 Mtrs
Time to start: 8.33 am
Time to end: 7.30 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Sarchu - Pang): 9.9 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and No BSNL
I woke up to the clinking of the wind against the tent walls. Vinay bhai
was also up. The ride from Sarchu to Pang was estimated to be the
most arduous and demanding as it involved triplet challenge of
traversing eye popping 21 Gata loops followed by Nakeela and
Lachungla Passes at about 5000 Mtrs.

We reached start of the Gata loops at 4201 Mtrs at 25 KMs from

Sarchu. Towards the end, we had passed Brandy BR @ 21 KMs and
Whiskey BR at 23 KMs respectively. The names were sadly delusive as
we had accelerated under the temptation and we didnt find a drop of
either brandy or whiskey at any of the locations.. unaware of another
shocker round the corner.. Gata loops. We had a downhill image of it
in our judgmental minds. The board read Gata loop starts (total 21
loops) and our eyes popped out as the real image was just invert of the
one
we
had
relished
till
that
moment.

The stretch was all uphill on a single mountain with hairpin bends at the
end of every loop. I believed it to be the gateway to the first pass of the
day Nakeela. We clicked few photographs and introduced ourselves

into the loops. Counting the loops made it even more longer and
steeper. The splintered and fractured road challenged our climb.
Eventually we were at the site where it read Gata loops end @ 4667
Mtrs.

GATA loops enroute to Pang from Sarchu

Hurrah we had conquered it pedal by pedal, loop by loop. The trip so

far had transformed us into bit of a mountain man. I saluted my cycle
and myself. The cycle gazed at me condescendingly. The loops spread
approximate 11 KMs till its end point. Altitude measured at 37 KMs @
4689 Mtrs followed by 4923 mtrs @ 44 KMs from Sarchu respectively.
We arrived at Nakeela pass at 45.4 KMs from Sarchu with Altitude

measuring 4952 Mtrs at the peak. Another milestone was reached..

Another pass was conquered. Dream was building up Pedal by pedal.
We shaped ourselves to the curves of Nakeela pass board to blend with
the moment. The moment was ours. The moment was captured.

Nakeela
The Chennai foursome also peaked a little later and we clicked our get
together. Bravery was served in abundance all around.
The wind was fairly stronger and chilly. We had to leave. Thereafter a
descent of 4.5 Kms guided us to Whiskey Nallah, reasonably fine
location for the cyclists to stayover for night. My brother had
descended faster (he mostly led the descents with supersonic speeds)
and enquired about the staying arrangements. Pang was still 30 KMs
far. Chennai foursome had decided to call it a day and stayed back.
After a quick chat and eye talk, we proceeded for Pang at 4.25pm,
surely a tall call as it included Lachungla Pass about 7 KMs ahead of
Whiskey Nallah @ 4774 Mtrs. We plunged ourselves into the last push
of the day. We arrived at Lachungla Pass at 5.40pm @ 5097 Mtrs at 56

KMs from Sarchu. The last summit for the day was served with pride
and propriety.

Lachungla
After a brief stopover to celebrate and capture our mark, we
immediately left for Pang. We had to pedal further 23 KMs to get there
before twilight. The descend begun amidst shattered and rough road.
The stretch appeared to be never ending as it was race against time.
We could find the six foreigners retiring in the self put up tent about 10
Kms before Pang. We kept pedaling. The darkness prevailed over our
pace. Luckily, front headlights that we carried bailed us out. At one
point of time we got confused about the direction. As we waived our
hands to enquire from one of the cars coming in from the opposite
side, it sped suddenly and dashed pass us and disappeared. May be we
thought about to be savage guys. Haha It was DL numbered vehicle.
Just couple of KMs of cycling saw us meeting two nicer Bihari peasants
who reassured us about the route and pointed at Pang just two more
KMs ahead. Finally we reached Pang @ 4657 Mtrs at 7.40pm. The day
had been astonishingly amazing. The musketeers again arrived as per

plan. Our cycles had fully supported our endeavor every pedal. Oh
God Four out of the five summits till Leh had been were surmounted.

Luckily we found brick and mortar built Lyon guest house although with
cracked walls and rustic roof, on the left at the start of Pang just after
crossing over the bridge. We got our cycles secured in the common
narrow lobby inside. We retired to bed at 9.30pm after munching tasty
dinner reminiscent of homely simplicity. The facility was entirely
managed by indefatigable, studious and polite women.

Lyon Guest House, Pang

We met one nice soul from Gujarat who was seemingly quite impressed
at our effort. He had accompanied his elderly uncle for a ride and
vacation planned at Leh in his Gypsy. We had good talk with him during
the brief rendezvous.
Ride, Next day was supposedly uncomplicated and plain sailing as it
involved just 7 KMs of uphill followed by 40 plus KMs of Moore plains.
We retired at 9.45pm and there were no alarms set this night.

Day 9 (23rd Aug 2016)

Pang - Debring
Distance 46.2 KMs
Elevation Profile Pang @ 4657 Mtrs to Peak elevation @ 4763 Mtrs to
Moore plains @ 4700 Mtrs to Debring @ 4646 Mtrs
Time to start: 8.35 am
Time to end: 1.45 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Pang Debring): 14.8 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and No BSNL

It was a relaxed morning as the ride was also seemingly plain today. The
landlady further slackened us as she shared the fun of riding on
majestic Moore plains just after initial mild ascent of 6.5 KMs. We
shaved using the mirrors of the parked motorbikes outside. We were in
a fairyland with angels all around yet it was real. There was a military
recovery post at the other end of Pang. The uphill stretch was without
tar. The Pang looked awe-inspiring from the top of the ascent. A narrow
gateway among the scenic extruded rocky edges at the end of the
ascent opened into the spectacular and striking Moore plains. Another

photo shoot location ensued and smiles captured with magnificent and
magical mother nature.

Moore ride was kind of amusement park fun with mighty wind cutting
across and sides. We had multiple photo shoots. Happily, there was no
haste for completing the days ride. We willfully let the mother nature
hijack us and kept enjoying our status as hostages.
We met with another magnificent lot from Switzerland coming across
from the other side and proceeding to Pang. They were amazed looking
at our cycles and the carried stuff including the spare tyres clung to the
side of the left Panier bag. We had few clicks together memorizing the
association.

At times I pondered, did we overprotect ourselves. As were riding

towards Debring, two motobikers coming from the opposite direction
sought our airpump for their bikes. It did help. My cycle pump made me
proud. It had already helped the needy twice.

We reached Debring at 1.45pm with another recovery post on the left.

We had our lunch in one of the tent on the right just after the recovery
post. It had beds available for night, but the only toilet available was
open to the skies with just one sided paneled metal sheet wall. The seat
was dangerous to use.
We met foreigners Mark and Nicholas, prodigious brave hearts
exploring India for few weeks now on their respective trailer cycles. We
were really impressed.

Mark, the braveheart

While we were enjoying lunch and tea, group of army men arrived at
the location. We had very hearty talk in Punjabi with soldier Mr.
Ramandeep Singh.
One of them guided us to pedal another 2-3 KMs to find better tented
locations for stay.
We were suggested to cycle little further for the night stay. We got one
facility Skarma Rangdol Restaurant on our right after 2.1 KMs made out

of brick and mortar amongst the other tented locations. The landlady
was quite polite and accommodative. The toilet though outside was
very neat, fully enclosed and roofed.

Accommodation at Debring
We were also offered little hot water for refreshing ourselves. The
bright sunny and windy weather prompted me to wash few of my
clothes with possible prospect of drying up in time. The facility at the
mo mans land was fantastic.
There was no electricity facility including no portable generators.
Restaurateurs there survive on solar banks and accessories. It was the

first location where we could not charge our mobiles. Power banks
played the savior.
Few moments later Mark and Nicholas arrived too and finalized a
location for night stay in one of the tents next to our brick and mortar
abode. They shared some real funny facts about their ride and
experience all across the globe, including one Italian secrethaha
I had not sighted the magnificent foursome from Chennai since
Whiskey Nallah and Ketan since Zingzingbar respectively. I prayed for
their wellbeing.
We retired to bed around 9.15pm after another delicious dinner
comprising rotis, moong dal, rice and mix vegetable served with love.
I woke up at night out of the fear of the pitch dark room where we had
slept. I had kept one torch provided by the landlady handy for the night
movement. I felt choked in the dark and moved outside the facility for
fresh air. It was chilly outside. The gaze at the skies left me enthralled
and bewildered. It was even better compared to what I had witnessed
at Sarchu. I braved chill to spend few minutes outside captivated by the
majestic skyline full of stars and mesmerizing milky ways.
Thereafter I slipped into my bed carrying the images in my mind to
sleep. The fear went away miraculously.

Day 10 (24th Aug 2016)

Debring - Upshi
Distance 83.9 KMs
Elevation Profile Debring @ 4646 Mtrs to Peak elevation Tanglangla
@ 5328 Mtrs to Rumtse @ 4210 Mtrs to Upshi @ 3400 Mtrs
Time to start: 7.15 am
Time to end: 4.30 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Debring Upshi): 15.1 Kms/Hr
Network: No Airtel and Only BSNL

We were up early and had a quick breakfast of omeletts and chapatti

along with tea. We bought chips and Real orange juice 1 ltr tetra packs.
Before we left at 7.15am, we clicked a selfie with the landlady for
remembering her courtesy. Today we were supposed to ride past the
fifth and the last of the passes to Leh, the monumental and mighty
Tanglangla Pass @ 5328 Mtrs, the highest pass between Leh and
Manali. It also boasted to be the second highest motorable pass after
Khardungla. The ascent started at Debring @4646 Mtrs and peaked at
5328 Mtrs, 21 KMs away from Debring.

Mark and Nicholas @ Tanglangla

The excitement was assorted as we had a mix of being apprehensive

considering the fact that we were climbing the tallest of the pass and
equally excited at the prospect of being so near to Leh that was just a
day away. We pedaled our way to the top and reached the summit at
11.30am way ahead of our expectations. The excitement of reaching

Leh added muscles to our legs making short work of the climb. Staying
at Tanglanga was bliss. Foursome from Chennai arrived and we
exchanged high fives. Mark and Nicholas too arrived in style. Ketan was
already there. It was a grand congregation. We had actually survived all
the five summits. The shutter of the camera was unstoppable.
Moments of life captured forever. Brief snowfall was too welcoming.
There was a tented facility offering tea and snacks at the peak. We
missed it.
We started at 12.15pm for Upshi, further 60 KMs away for the peak.
Now it was our turn for joyride. The road suddenly got amazing after
the pass and we quickly descended to Rumtse at 2.15pm @ 4210 Mtrs
and 32 KMs from Tanglangla pass. We had a relaxed lunch at a Rumtse
restaurant on our left. We resumed our ride to Upshi at 3pm. The
stretch to Upshi moved along a river and we were back into civilization
and green vegetation. Few mesmerizing hamlets in Sasoma, Gya and
Miru passed by as we pedaled to Upshi with few locals seen working in
fields. The road condition was just average with missing tar for majority
of the stretch. Reached our target destination Upshi @ 3402 Mtrs, 30
KMs ahead of Rumtse after crossing over Indus river bridge just at the
entry point to the town at 4.30pm. Indus river was monumental with
blustery and turbulent currents. The road just after the bridge split into
two with right one leading Pangong lake and the straight road
proceeding to Leh. Indus river stayed along Upshi Leh highyway.

Upshi
After a frantic search for night stay in almost all the available options,
finalized Highway Inn and Foodz on the left side. The owner runs
Tibetan restaurant on right side opposite to the gate of Highway Inn
and Foodz. The owner was amazingly accommodative and polite
fellow. The goodness prevailed all across. I had not experienced or
witnessed courtesy in that abundance before. BSNL signal despite seen
on the handset didnt allow the voice call to mature. The owner left his
BSNL mobile with us for attempting as many times as possible. That
was mind blowing human side and unbelievable courtesy. Luckily the
network started working after couple of hours and we could call home
from the BSNL number.
We could get hot water and had a revitalizing, real and much needed
bath after Sissu. In between these two locations, we could manage
applying simple and plain sponge to our bodies with limited hot water
that we could muster.
We had delicious aloo paranthas at night along with curd and Dal
Makhani. We witnessed printed menu card after Marhi. It was really
fascinating and impressive.

The rear end of the hotel opened directly to the banks of Indus river.
The flow was very strong and water muddy.
We retired to bed at 9.30pm. There were just two of us in the entire
dormitory housing 24 beds.
Vinay Bhai was visibly agog about the final ride to Khardungla, while I
had a mixed feeling about furthering our ride beyond Leh. His
commitment kept me motivated. That is the power of two. The chance
of dreams survival gets better.
It rained intermittently during the night.

Day 11 (25th Aug 2016) The D Day

Upshi - Leh
Distance 51.1 KMs
Elevation Profile Upshi @ 3400 Mtrs to Karu @ 3325 Mtrs to Stakna
Monastery @ 3287 Mtrs to Thiksey Monastery @ 3600 Mtrs to Shey
Monastery @ 3415 Mtrs to Choglamsar @ 3225 to destination Leh @
3425 Mtrs
Upshi Karu 14 KMs, Karu Stakna 11 KMs, Stakna Thiksey 8 KMs,
Thiksey Shey 5 KMs, Shey Choglamsar 7 KMs, Choglamsar Leh 5
KMs
Time to start: 8.40 am
Time to end: 3.00 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Upshi - Karu): 14 Kms/Hr

Average Moving time excluding breaks (Karu - Leh): 13.5 Kms/Hr

Network: Airtel, BSNL and Aircel

The day of redemption had arrived. As I opened my eyes to the blissful

morning and the majestic sound of Indus river, I was out of the bed the
next moment. The excitement was quite visible in my anxiety to reach
Leh. We had been cycling for days and lost track of dates and days.
After the morning rituals, we had our breakfast at the same place
across the road where we had consumed our night supper.
The ride to destination Leh commenced after we had settled the
commercials. The initial 5 KMs were almost flat with little downward
gradient leading us to 3360 Mtrs. The next four KMs ascended to 3475
Mtrs followed by Joy ride of 5 Kms descending through the magnificent
and picturesque campus of army establishment encasing Indus river
banks the town of Karu. It belonged to Trishul regiment. We risked
being fined for maintaining speeds in excess of 45 KMs while the
warning boards read vehicle speed limits pegged at @ 35 40 KMs. We
reached end of Karu and sighted one very picturesque reasonably sized
Monastery on our left. Road on the right opened into route to Pangong
lake. Little ahead was Karu shopping center to our right and a huge
prayer wheel outside the complex. We relaxed and loosened ourselves
coupled with few captures with the camera. I sighted a shop with Airtel
painted on it and finally network was discovered after day 2 of our ride.
I was as happy as clams. It was 2G with intermittent Edge in between. I
tried uploading my last all rides onto strava. Brother also fixed up the
gear shifter issue after borrowing long plier from a mechanic shop.
Civilization is resourceful. Just after the network showed up, I received

call from my younger brother who was relieved and quite satisfied and
felt pride in our quest.

For first time in the entire ride, we had no hurry to reach the days
target. The aroma of air around us smelled victorious. We had
seemingly acquired a bit of unfair Narcissism.
We resumed our ride towards Leh. As we neared Stakna, some 11 KMs
away from Karu, one old and historic looking beguiling and tantalizing
construction caught our eyes. The elevated construction on top of a
mountain mound was visible from few KMs on our left side. It turned
out to be the famous Stakna Monastery (which I learnt later). The
consummate beauty had prompted me to capture it in my camera from
multiple distances and angles. The land on the opposite side of the
Monastery across the road was amazingly flat and huge with
mesmerizing mountain ranges in the backdrop. It trapped us
completely. We went off road and to the plains. Another bout of photo
shoot followed with some animated and vivacious poses. We were
absolutely relaxed and tranquil with no watch on the watch.

The cycling resumed and we headed towards Thiksey town, 8 KMs

further. Presumptions on the alluring and eyeful outlook of the Thiksey
Monastery just few moments away made us inquisitive and curious. It
appeared on our right with a mammoth inviting gate leading to the
renowned and legendary Thiksey Monastery on top of the mound.

We could not afford to miss it and we truly didnt. We had all the time
in the word to reach Leh. The passes were past us. We cycled to the top
to the parking just before the main entrance to the Monastery. We
savored the celebrated abode capturing few moments. There was no
way we could have missed the visit.
The ride commenced again towards Leh. Shey monastery awaited us 5
KMs away. We halted at one of the road side stores on our left for a
bite. The restaurant alongside didnt have anything to offer except
Maggi. Instead we had chips and chocolates to infuse calories into our
intestines. We found chocolate bar made by Patanjali and it tasted
good with lot of calories to pump you up. Soon we rode past Shey
Monastery. It was parched on top of another mound on our right
overlooking a small lake across the road. The magnificent and magical
beauty had continued and accompanied us since day of our ride so

loyally. I could not thank Mother Nature enough for pushing us cross
our limits.
We ate couple of Bananas at Choglamsar town, neighboring Leh. The
last stretch began and it was uphill to the Godly town of Leh. Pedal by
pedal we inched towards our final terminus and finally we were at Leh.
Hurrrraahhhhh. High fives were exchange between us and we
captured the selfie moment at the roundabout near petrol station. The
foreigners group also made it along us. The foursome from Chennai
also won the battle. Ketan had also arrived. It felt blissful.

We had cycled for 10 days to be there. We had literally lost track of

dates during the crusade. We quickly came back out of our hypnotic
shells and recollected ourselves. We reminded us of Khardungla Pass,

supposedly the finally final destination, scheduled for next morning.

After checking on the probable hotel locations, with the local vegetable
vendor on the right of the roundabout, we pushed ourselves little uphill
on the old road, Sheynam with accommodation options.

About 200 mtrs upwards, found success with Norzang Holiday Home, a
grand and homely recently built up decent structure with meticulously
planned interiors at amazingly reasonable fee. It had extra toilet in
addition to the attached bath and 24 hours of hot water supply. The
window of the room on the first floor overlooked the majestic
Karakoram ranges staring at pretty and poetic skyline.
We wandered and waded the streets of Leh in the evening. We sighted
one Sardarji Punjabi Dhaba offering snacks and food on our right on the
main road. Had a plate of Samosa-choley and followed by couple of
Aloo paranthas. We stuck to our favorite Aloo Paranthas wherever we
could, and wondered what we should eat as cyclists. We always obeyed

our hearts call. It favored Paranthas. Hahahaha.. Sardarji got super

excited after listening to our cycling ride from Manali.
We prepared ourselves for the final battle of Khadungla, the Mecca and
final pilgrimage for any cyclist.
We retired into our beds around 9.15pm. Khardungla looked near yet
the sleep seemed far away.

Day 12 (26th Aug 2016) The Final Nail

Leh - Khardungla
Distance 82.5 KMs
Elevation Profile Leh @ 3425 Mtrs to South Pullu @ 4663 Mtrs to
Khardung La @ 5359 Mtrs
Leh South Pullu 27 KMs, South Pullu Khardungla 14 KMs,
Time to start: 7.50 am
Time to end: 6.00 pm
Average Moving time excluding breaks (Leh Khardungla - Leh):
10.3Kms/Hr
Network: No network
I was out of the bed at 6.15 and quite upbeat about the final ride to
Khardungla. On the contrary today, Vinay Bhai looked nebulous about
the ride. He suggested to just roam around in Leh and conclude our ride
at Leh itself. Taking turns, I pumped up Vinay bhai this time and next
moment we were ready for the ride. That is the power of two. Honestly

none of us wanted to loose Khardungla after coming this far. We left

without having breakfast at the hotel. Our cycles for the first time were
without any bags except odd one at our backs. We carried one spare
tube tied to my cycle carrier along with the puncture kits. Just as were
leaving Leh, we checked into the new bus stand on our left to enquire
about the transportation options to carry our cycles back from Leh to
Manali. We wasted about 40 minutes and fetched nothing. Honestly we
could have done it on our way back from Khardungla. The uphill had
started from the very first pedal of the day. After maneuvering
serpentine streets of the town we reached the outskirts. The sight of
the town behind looked pretty and pleasing. God must have an address
here. We touched the highway and cycled past the first check post. One
of the staff was seen practicing archery on the roadside with stunning
accuracy. It established soon after our start that ride to Khardungla
would be the toughest of the trip and test our limits. We could
scrutinize it looking at the eyes of one another. The ride was slow but
steady. Just as we were about 8 KMs from where we started, a flurry of
army trucks (all empty) went pass us and we stood dislodged on the
narrow ground towards the left of the road. I counted 26 trucks. It
actually puzzles about the purpose of the movement of empty trucks
from one post to the other burning fuel at the expanse of tax payer. My
first political statement so far. Apologies
I had not moved beyond few hundred mtrs when I received a call. It
was Sanjeev Vaid, my schoolmate who was incidentally in Leh and had
come to know about my ride to leh from our common whatsapp group.
He promised to come next day to Hotel and see me.
We met fearless twosome young lads from Assam approaching
Khardungla. They had cycled all the way from Assam for realizing their

Khardungla dream. Inspiring, Isnt it. We chatted for some distance

while it started raining. I learnt their names as Dhrubhjyoti and
Animesh.
We reached South Pullu @ 4663 Mtrs after passing by Ganglas about 14
KMs from Leh. It had a army check point with permit permissions office.
Fortunately it had a small restaurant with just maggi as the food choice.
We requested for two maggies with added eggs to infuse lost energy
bytes. Vinay bhai looked frazzled and dog-tired. Luckily, 15 minutes
stretch on the available flat cot for 15 minutes recharged his soul. I too
relaxed for a while on a nearby chair tied to the table. The cycles looked
at us bewildered. The place overlooked an exquisite river flowing
downhill on the left.
Soon after we resumed our ride to Khardungla further 14 KMs ahead.
After four KMs, the road vanished and we had to pedal through
unfriendly and stony path. Soon we were aware that brutally rough
status of the road will continue till the last pedal to Khardungla.
Soon we met the two cyclists again, this time walking their cycles on
the rough stretch. While we surpassed, we learnt about the damage
incurred to Animeshs cycle. Vinay Bhai was quick to lend support trying
fixing the axle using the 14/15 spanner available with us. The ball
bearings of the rear axle of Animeshs cycled seemingly had moved.
Truly it was tough luck for the duo. Unfortunately the braveheart duo
had to walk the last stretch.
After lending the support as much as possible, we marched ahead for
our final thrust. Every loop looked as if it was the last, just to open up
into another one. Just as it seemed unending, one passerby from
Punjab (assumption based on the number plate) driving range rover

from the opposite side, saluted myself first followed by my brother just
behind. That salute recharged our souls. God had sent another angel
for support when needed. Its magical.
We reached our mecca, the peak at 4.45pm.

The MOMENT
We found our purpose; The ride of our life

The ride of my life

Mission Khardungla Calling accomplished.
BINGO.. HURRAH HALLELUJAH. We hugged each other. High fives
were exchanged in multitude. Truly it was our moment. The clock has
gone still. Our souls rejoiced. I had lived my life. We had relished the
paradise while we were alive. We had our photo shoot. Standing along
with my cycle with Khardungla signboard reading 18380 feet in the
backdrop felt blissful. We were on cloud nine. Zero Punctures. Zero
major breakdowns. Zero serious injuries. Unlimited Joy. Unlimited
pride. God had been very kind and honored our faith and prayers of all
our well wishers for us. God had walked with us throughout. After
spending 20 minutes at the top, we commenced our descent to Leh.
The initial 10 KMs were high-risk and unpredictably dangerous. It called
for extremely focused eye and pedal symphony. After the off road, the
rest was a joy ride till Leh and we simply followed our cycles speeding
past the milestones. The odometer looked scary at 72 KMs, top speed
witnessed during the downhill. It was dangerous temptation.
We were able to touch Leh before dark. The mission was successful and
fulfilling. It was amazing self discovery. I had found myself.
The dinner tasted victorious. We retired to bed around 9.30pm and
slept like babies.

Day 13 (27th Aug 2016) After tour of Leh

I called up Sanjeev in the morning and he joined us for breakfast along
with his colleague Sanjay Jangir and Tapka driver less friend more. He
was managing a project of erecting structures for the forces at multiple
locations across Laddakh.
He suggested to join him for his site visit near Sangam location where
Indus and Zanskar river merge.

My schoolmate Sanjeev @ Leh

We also visited the Magnetic Hill and Patthar Sahib Gurudwara on our
way back. We tasted delicious and spiritual langar at Pathar Sahib. We
also visited guest house where Sanjeev stayed.

We looked for options to pack our cycles and courier it directly to our
homes from Leh. Courier agency D2D estimated Rs 850/- per cycle and
it looked quite reasonable. The condition was to deliver them packed
cycle inside a box. Our search for a cycle box almost all across Leh went
in vain. One of the shops summer sports had cycle boxes but didnt
have the requisite one for our 29 bikes. The courier option had to be
dropped.
Sanjeev savored our evening with a grand dinner at Zen, one of the best
Hotels at Leh. We wore our cycling gear throughout the day as there
were no regular clothes carried along. Sanjeev had brought over few
card boxes for support.
The day was divinely amazing.

Day 14 (28th Aug 2016) Leaving Leh

We had breakfast along with Sanjeev at our hotel. We went to Shanti
Stupa in Leh. The place overlooked the Leh city and the sight was
majestic. We booked our tickets @ Rs 1800/ each in the morning from
the tempo traveler association office at first floor on top of a fruit shop
inside the bus stand. It would leave at 8pm in the evening an reach
Manali next day afternoon. The driver had agreed for tying the cycles at
top of the bus at a charge of additional Rs 500/- per cycle.
Sanjeev hosted lunch for us again at the hotel dragon close to our
location. We bade good bye thereafter. Thanks Sanjeev for your
courtesy, time and support during our stay at Leh.

We packed our stuff and relaxed for few hours. At 6.45pm, we left the
hotel. We put the luggage on top of the cycle and walked to the bus
stand. The cycles were tied on top of the traveler and luggage was kept
inside. We were finally got stuffed into our seats, 2nd row from the last.

Cyles on top (Leh Manali)

Day 15 (29th Aug 2016) Manali

Reached Manali at 2.45pm instead of the scheduled 12pm, due to
unplanned stopover of 2 hours in early morning hours.
The journey was long and tiring. Cycles were disembarked and Bingo.
The cycling hardware was seemingly ok.
Reached Raj Palace, where we had secured our boxes. Packed the
cycles and we were ready for the second consecutive night travel. We
had booked our tickets in Volvo @ HRTC from Manali to Delhi. It left
Manali at 7pm.

Day 16 (30th Aug 2016) Delhi and back among our world
Reached Delhi at 7.30am and Innova carried us and our cycles to
Faridabad. I was home at 8.30am.
Thanks Vinay Bhai for the support and push. You are truly inspiring and
amazing team player and mentor and leader.
Thanks Rashmee for your trust. You kept motivating my spirits
whenever network availability offered connectivity. I could hear your
prayers. You are truly amazing life partner. I promise you a ride on
motorbike to Leh soon.
Thanks to Aditya my son for his prayers and push. I missed him.
Thanks to my spirited friends and well wishers. Thanks to my fellow
cyclists. You are my extended family. I cant thank everyone enough for
the prayers.
God Bless