Automation in Garments Manufacturing 2

Automation in Garments Manufacturing
Automation:
Automation is the use of control systems and information technologies to reduce
the need for human work in the production of goods and services. In the scope of
industrialization, automation is a step beyond mechanization. Whereas
mechanization provided human operators with machinery to assist them with the
muscular requirements of work, automation greatly decreases the need for human
sensory and mental requirements as well. Automation plays an increasingly
important role in the world economy and in daily experience.
Automation has had a notable impact in a wide range of industries beyond
manufacturing (where it began). Once-ubiquitous telephone operators have been
replaced largely by automated telephone switchboards and answering machines.
Medical processes such as primary screening in electrocardiography or
radiography and laboratory analysis of human genes, sera, cells, and tissues are
carried out at much greater speed and accuracy by automated systems. Automated
teller machines have reduced the need for bank visits to obtain cash and carry out
transactions. In general, automation has been responsible for the shift in the world
economy from industrial jobs to service jobs in the 20th and 21st centuries.
Advantages :
The main advantages of automation are:
Replacing human operators in tasks that involve hard physical or

monotonous work.
Replacing humans in tasks done in dangerous environments (i.e. fire, space,
volcanoes, nuclear facilities, underwater, etc.)
Performing tasks that are beyond human capabilities of size, weight, speed,
endurance, etc.
Economy improvement. Automation may improve in economy of enterprises, society or
most of humanity. For example, when an enterprise invests in automation, technology
recovers its investment; or when a state or country increases its income due to automation
like Germany or Japan in the 20th Century.
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Process Flow-Chart of Garments Manufacturing

Design / Sketch
Pattern Design
Automation
Sample Making
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker Making
Spreading
Cutting
Sorting/Bundling
Sewing/Assembling
Inspection
Pressing/ Finishing
Final Inspection
Packing
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Despatch
Design/ Sketch:
For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular
garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after
manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done
manually or with the help of computer.
Pattern Design:
Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each
component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming
allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern
design could also be done manually or with the help of computer.
Sample Making:
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric
form are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to
be done by a very efficient and technically sound person.
Production Pattern:
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production
pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to
modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor
modification.
VStyler 3D garment design software
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Specifications
Designers need have no special expertise in pattern making or in 3D graphic
design.
VStyler is a 3D garment design application that gives designers the freedom they
need to see their ideas in endless true-to-life 3D simulations without the cost in
time
and
material
required
to
develop
physical
samples.
Designers need have no special expertise in pattern making or in 3D graphic
design. VStyler provides all the expertise required to take a 2D design, add data on
fabric and texture, and turn it into a truly realistic 3D garment visualization.
Based on proprietary software, VStyler offers the most powerful draping capability
features currently in existence. The result is a 3D image that is an accurate
reflection of the designer's concept. It's a design tool whose only limit is the
designer's imagination.
General features - Pattern Designer
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Quick and accurate pattern design, using basic design tools and advanced
geometrical procedures
Advanced model design and make-up with simulation for darts, folds
Automatic and manual pattern grading
Pattern checking and verifying, measurement table, real time watcher
Pattern digitising, support for fast access digitizing functions, vocal
confirmation
Editor for technical documentation, including support for graphical add-ons
Import and export in/from international standard formats
When you design your own products or collections, Kuris Pattern Designer is the
software environment in which the designer's ideas are easily transformed into
perfectly built and checked pattern projects. Gifted with unique design functions
like reversible folds and darts, automatic & interactive seam allowance creation,
automatic notch translation and the all-sizes dimension watcher, Kuris allows a
quick
and
perfect
pattern
design.
Automatic grading and the interactive grading functions allows the previous
experience to be stored in grading rules and easily applied to the new products.
Kuris Pattern Designer is based on Bezier curves, but can also handle complex
polylines or B-Spline Curves. The KPD's interface has a very different approach
compared to other CAD applications, because is built to be extremely user friendly,
according to the latest software standards. KPD comes as standards with a built-in
convertor for Gerber, Assyst and Lectra native files and also for DXF-AAMA
import and export.
Winda Garment CAD Software
Quick Details
Version Type: Enterprise Brand Name: Winda
Model Number: WD-GS
Place of Origin: Guangdong China (Mainland)
Pattern Design System: Easy to
make pattern ins... Garment Grading System: Realizing Fast Garment ...
Garment Marker System: Manual & Auto marker
Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Detail: Standard Packing
Delivery Detail
Within 7 days
Specifications
Winda Garment CAD System Includes:
Pattern Design System;
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Garment Grading System;

Garment Marker System;
Super auto marker!
Winda Garment CAD Includes:
Intelligent Pattern Design System;
Garment Grading System;
Garment Marker System
Automatic Marker System
Winda intelligent Garment CAD system is a special-purpose pattern design and
grading system for clothing, shoes and hats industry. Easy to operate and learn as
well as safe and reliable to use. It can improve the user's working efficiency and
product quality and enhance user's market competition.
Fully Automatic Pattern Design Generate garment pattern just by simple input the
measurement table to the software. There is also vivid body picture to show the
size. It is the most fast way to design and modify pattern without complicated
calculation and greatly improve the user's working efficiency. The system not only
can design pattern, modify pattern and grading in the computer, but also can import
manual designed patterns to the software by digitizer. Then go to grading, nesting,
printing and plotting. Manual graded patterns can also be imported to our system
for modifying and saving
Winda Garment Grading System helps you fast and accurately grading patterns in
the shortest time. Winda Grading system offers various grading methods -- point
grading, line grading, rule grading, memory grading, body grading, angle grading
and so on.
Winda marker system is a special-purpose marker system for clothing, shoes and
hats industry. It is easy to operate and learn as well as safe and reliable to use. It
can improve the user's working efficiency, product quality and enhance user's
market competition. More Fabric is saved by Winda System! Auto nesting can
greatly improve the user's working efficiency.
Garment CAD Software
Quick Details
Place of Origin: Hong Kong
Brand Name: JINDEX
CAD
Compound Mode: Integrated System
Model Number: JD-V3-
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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail: carton paper by air or sea
Delivery Detail
3 days
Specifications
Jindex cad software has the features:auto patterns, free patterns design grading,
marker making system and conversion system..
The cad system contains fully automatic patterns, formula patterns design, free
design
Automatic designing / grading / nesting
Intelligent order for quoting.
1, Fully-Automatic Patterns Design Model
2, Grading module
3, Fully-Automatic Marker making
4, Accu-quote order
5, Jindex conversion system
Spreading:
It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width
of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited upto
maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe.
Spreading Machines
MS 100
Working width 183 cm and 213 cm
Spreading height max. 12 cm
Cloth roll dia. max. 60 cm
Cloth roll weight 60 kg / Option: max. 125 kg
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PIONIER SHUTTLE
Working width 168 to 258 cm
Cloth roll dia. max. 40 cm / Option: max. 60 cm
Cloth roll weight 60 kg
PIONIER SUPER ELECTRONIC

Working width 168 bis 213 cm
Cloth roll dia. max. 40 cm / Option: max. 60 cm
Cloth roll weight max. 120 kg
PIONIER KNITMASTER
Working width 93 bis 123 cm
Cloth roll dia.max. 60 cm
Cloth roll weight max. 80 cm
Marker Making:
All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that
maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are
made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption
calculations.
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General features - AutoMarker
Full automatic, high efficiency marker optimisation

Special features for markers on fabrics with lines or stripes, tubular or folded
fabrics, for fuzing-block definition, for fabric contraction
Over-night marker optimisation for large volume of work
Fully compatible with markers from Gerber, Lectra and Assyst
Fully compatible with all types of plotters and cutting machines from
Gerber, Lectra, Assyst and others
Kuris AutoMarker is an advanced solution for automatic nesting in apparel

industry, developed by Kuris, but also available for users that work on other CAD
products
Kuris AutoMarker is based on state of the art technology and algorithms that will
provide excelent nesting results in record time. It can run full automatic nesting for
one individual marker or work continously for a list of markers, with no human
intervention required. The usual time needed for an average marker of 8 m is about
3-5 minutes. The average results in terms of speed and efficiency are considerably
higher
than
manual
nesting.
Kuris AutoMarker can perform full automatic nesting on simple, folded or tubular
fabrics, with or without plaids, stripes or textures, with specific widths and
contractions, according to each piece specifications and freedom.
Kuris AutoMarker cand output the nesting results in its own file format *.pt or
*.mrk, but can also export in all major industry standards: DFX-AAMA, HPGLPLT, ISO-CUT and RS274D. After automatic nesting, the markers can be directly
plotted
or
send
to
automatic
cutting
machine.
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Fabric Cutting:
On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the
fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife
cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each
patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.
Computer controlled knife cutting (Numerical control) machine:
Figure: Computer controlled (numerical system) knife cutting machine.

Numerical control systems are now used for any process that can be described as a
series of movements and operations. These include laser cutting, welding, friction
stir welding, ultrasonic welding, flame and plasma cutting, bending, spinning,
pinning, gluing, fabric cutting, sewing, tape and fiber placement, routing, picking
and placing (PnP), and sawing.
Features:
1. This method provides most accurate cutting at high speed.
2. Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting.
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3. Cutting knife is oval shaped, very hard, sharpness also very high and blade
is made by stainless steel.
4. Cutting knife moves according to the direction of computer memory.
5. This machine is a CAM system and works through CAD system.
CAM system includes:
a) Auto spreader.
b) Auto cutter.
CAD system includes:
a) Pattern making.
b) Pattern grading
c) Marker making.
Working principle:
1. Cutting table is perforated.
2. Table is covered with nylon bristles, which are flexible enough to
permit penetration & movement of knife blade which supported only
at top.
3. A sheet of air tight polyethylene covers the top of the lay, which
assists the creation of a vacuum & allows significant compression of
the lays.
4. Cutting head is placed in a beam which is set width wise of the table
& cutting head moves length wise of the beam according to the
directing of computer head.
5. A controlled cabinet houses the computer & the electric components
are required to drive the cutter & motor.
6. After loading the disc into the computer, the operator positions the
cutting heads origin right over the corner of the spread, this provides
the computer with a reference point.
7. Since the computer controlled knife cuts according to the instruction
from the computer rather than by following a pattern line drawn on a
marker, it gives accurate dimension.
Advantages:
1. Very fast cutting pertain.
2. Very active cutting by computer controlled system.
3. Suitable for very large-scale production.
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4. Sped of cutting can be controlled.

5. Cutting knife can be driven at any direction.
6. Cutting defects are less than others.
7. Can be compressed in lays that assist during fabric cutting.
8. Intensity of accident is low.
9. No need of marker.
10.Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method.
11.Less labor cost.
Disadvantages:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Very expensive machine.

Higher maintenance cost.
Skied manpower is required.
If correct disc is not added in the computer, error will be indicated.
Water jet cutting machine:
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Figure: Simple diagram of water jet cutting machine.

Here,
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
high-pressure water inlet

jewel (ruby or diamond)
abrasive (garnet)
mixing tube
guard
cutting water jet
cut material
A water jet cutter is a tool capable of slicing into metal or other materials using a
jet of water at high velocity and pressure, or a mixture of water and an abrasive
substance. The process is essentially the same as water erosion found in nature but
greatly accelerated and concentrated. It is often used during fabrication or
manufacture of parts for machinery and other devices. It has found applications in
a diverse number of industries from mining to aerospace where it is used for
operations such as cutting, shaping, carving, and reaming.
Operation:
The cutter is commonly connected to a high-pressure water pump where the water
is then ejected from the nozzle, cutting through the material by spraying it with the
jet of high-speed water. Additives in the form of suspended grit or other abrasives,
such as garnet and aluminum oxide, can assist in this process. Because the nature
of the cutting stream can be easily modified, water jets can be used to cut diverse
materials, from prepared foods to metals. There are few materials that cannot be
effectively cut with a water jet cutter; one of these is tempered glass, which
shatters when cut, regardless of the cutting technology used. Certain ceramics are
also resistant to water jet cutting. Water jet cuts are not typically limited by the
thickness of the material, and are capable of cutting materials over eighteen inches
(45 cm) thick. The penetrating power of these tools has led to the exploration of
their use as anti-tank weapons but, due to their short range and the advent of
composite armour, research was discontinued.
Versatility:
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The versatility of the waterjet allows it to be used in nearly every industry. There
are many different materials that the waterjet can cut. Some of them have unique
characteristics that require special attention when cutting. Each material cut will
have some unique characteristics that have to be taken into account. Materials
commonly cut with waterjet include rubber, foam, plastics, fabrics composites,
stone, tile, metals, food, paper and much more. The only materials that cannot be
cut with waterjet are tempered glass, diamonds and certain ceramics.
Types of water jet:
1. Pure water jet
2. Abrasive water jet
Pure water jet:
Pure water jet is the original water cutting method. The first commercial
applications were in the early to mid 1970s, and involved the cutting of corrugated
cardboard. The largest uses for pure waterjet cutting are disposable diapers, tissue
paper, and automotive interiors. In the cases of tissue paper and disposable diapers
the waterjet process creates less moisture on the material than touching or
breathing on it. Unplanned down time, common to other cutting processes, cost
over $20,000 per hour in some diaper or tissue plants. The waterjet provides the 24
hour per day, 7 day per week, 360 day per year operation required by such
applications maintenance can be scheduled into production.
Pure waterjet attributes:
Very thin stream (0.004 to 0.010 inch in diameter is the common range)
Extremely detailed geometry
Very little material loss due to cutting
Non-heat cutting
Cut very thick
Cut very thin
Usually cuts very quickly
Able to cut soft, light materials (e.g., fiberglass insulation up to 24 thick)
Extremely low cutting forces
Simple fixturing
24 hour per day operation

Abrasive water jet:
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The abrasive water jet differs from the pure water jet in just a few ways. In pure
water jet, the supersonic stream erodes the material. In the abrasive water jet, the
water jet stream accelerates abrasive particles and those particles, not the water,
erode the material. The abrasive waterjet is hundreds, if not thousands of times
more powerful than a pure waterjet. Both the waterjet and the abrasive water jet
have their place. Where the pure waterjet cuts soft materials, the abrasive water jet
cuts hard materials, such as metals, stone, composites and ceramics. Abrasive
waterjets using standard parameters can cut materials with hardness up to and
slightly beyond aluminum oxide ceramic (often called alumina, AD 99.9).
Abrasive waterjet attributes:
Extremely versatile process
No Heat Affected Zones
No mechanical stresses
Easy to program
Thin stream (0.020to 0.050 inch in diameter)
Extremely detailed geometry
Thin material cutting
10 inch thick cutting
Stack cutting
Little material loss due to cutting
Simple to fixture
Low cutting forces (under 1 lb. while cutting)
One jet setup for nearly all abrasive jet jobs
Easily switched from single to multi-head use
Quickly switch from pure waterjet to abrasive waterjet
Reduced secondary operations
Little or no burr
Features:
1. Cutting head is nozzle movable but fabric is stationary.
2. A very high velocity small diameter stream of water is created by applying
high pressure to a nozzle.
3. Generally water pressure is 60,000 lb/inch.
4. The high pressure jet works as a solid tool when it encounters the material to
cut.
5. Catcher collects loose fibers when cut the fabric.
6. The water used must be filtered and de-ionized.
7. Cutting head is controlled by the computer.
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Working principle:
There are six main process characteristics to water jet cutting:
1. Uses a high velocity stream of abrasive particles suspended in a stream of
Ultra High Pressure Water (30,000 - 90,000 psi) which is produced by a
Waterjet Intensifier Pump
2. Is used for machining a large array of materials, including heat-sensitive,
delicate or very hard materials.
3. Produces no heat damage to workpiece surface or edges.
4. Nozzles are typically made of sintered boride.
5. Produces a taper of less than 1 degree on most cuts, which can be reduced or
eliminated entirely by slowing down the cut process.
6. Distance of nozzle from workpiece affects the size of the kerf and the
removal rate of material. Typical distance is .125". Temperature is not as
much of a factor.
Advantages:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Very fast cutting operation.

It is most effective with materials including leather and plastic.
Not require to sharp the blade.
The table is not cut as catcher is used.
Disadvantages:
1. Not possible to fulfill the cutting requirements as water spot may be on the
fabric.
2. Capital costs are high.
3. Water is to be filtered and de-ionized.
4. Not suitable for cutting fabric of more lay height.
5. There is a danger of wet edges.
6. The sound of jet has to be controlled.
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Laser cutting machine:
Figure: Laser cutting process on a sheet of steel.

A laser is a device that emits light (electromagnetic radiation) through a process
called stimulated emission. The term laser is an acronym for light amplification by
stimulated emission of radiation. Laser light is usually spatially coherent, which
means that the light either is emitted in a narrow, low-divergence beam, or can be
converted into one with the help of optical components such as lenses. Typically,
lasers are thought of as emitting light with a narrow wavelength spectrum
("monochromatic" light). This is not true of all lasers, however: some emit light
with a broad spectrum, while others emit light at multiple distinct wavelengths
Page- 17
simultaneously. The coherence of typical laser emission is distinctive. Most other

light sources emit incoherent light, which has a phase that varies randomly with
time and position.Laser cutting is a technology that uses a laser to cut materials,
which is used in the production line and is typically used for industrial
manufacturing applications. Laser cutting works by directing the output of a high
power laser, by computer, at the material to be cut. The material then either melts,
burns, vaporizes away, or is blown away by a jet of gas, leaving an edge with a
high quality surface finish. Industrial laser cutters are used to cut flat-sheet material
as well as structural and piping materials.
Sorting/ Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per
size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.
Sewing or Assembling:
It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry.
Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the
garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence
of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 nos
to 60 nos depending on the style of the ga4rmnet to be produce. Production pr line
pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstances.
Number of sewing machine arrangement per line may be upto 60 depending on
design and out put quantity of garment.
Sewing Data Programming Software (PS-300B)
Your original sewing patterns can be created enhancing the products value
Sewing pattern data can easily be modified. It reduces the time for resizing and
correcting
Sewing pattern data for existing models and external data can also be used
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Main function: Creating, editing, setting and converting of sewing data. File
input/output, data input/output
Direct Drive Programmable Electronic Pattern Sewer with Cylinder Bed
BAS-311G
Attractive sewing accurate to the sewing data
High productivity with maximum sewing speed 2,700 rpm
By using PD-3000 Programmer, creation and management of sewing data is
easily done
Sewing area (X-Y): 130 X 100 mm
For medium materials / heavy materials
Max. sewing speed: 2,700 rpm
Stitch length: 0.05-12.7 mm
Number of stitches: Max. 20,000 stitches per pattern
Direct Drive Programmable Electronic Pattern Sewer with Cylinder Bed
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BAS-326G
Attractive sewing accurate to the sewing data
High productivity with maximum sewing speed 2,700 rpm
By using PD-3000 Programmer, creation and management of sewing data is
easily done
Programmable Electronic Pattern Sewer with Cylinder Bed
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BAS-341F
The ideal model for decorative stitching of shoes and bags
Machine dimensions: 1,200 W X 1,220 D X 1,180-1,450 H mm
Programmable Electronic Pattern Sewer with Cylinder Bed
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BAS-342G
The ideal model for decorative stitching of shoes and bags
Machine dimensions: 1,200 W X 1,270 D X 1,180-1,450 H mm
Page- 22

Automation in Garments Manufacturing 2

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Automation in Garments Manufacturing

Replacing human operators in tasks that involve hard physical or