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    1 00:01:09,833 --> 00:01:13,040 Lots of chatting. 2 00:01:13,833 --> 00:01:18,915 Such are our days and nights. 3 00:01:19,458 --> 00:01:23,874 There something going on every moment. 4 00:01:24,208 --> 00:01:30,207 People call us mad. 5 00:01:40,958 --> 00:01:42,582 Are you ready now? 6 00:01:45,833 --> 00:01:47,499 Here we go. 7 00:01:58,416 --> 00:02:00,957 By the way. All the way. 8 00:02:01,375 --> 00:02:04,082 The life that we have got. 9 00:02:04,083 --> 00:02:06,665 It sings. It laughs. 10 00:02:07,291 --> 00:02:09,749 Its a bit crazy. 11 00:02:09,750 --> 00:02:12,332 We fight. We kiss and make up. 12 00:02:12,666 --> 00:02:15,290 Its new every moment. 13 00:02:15,291 --> 00:02:17,957 Its moody. Its stubborn. 14 00:02:18,708 --> 00:02:21,124 I have no idea what to do about it. 15 00:02:21,125 --> 00:02:23,999 You cant stop us. 16 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:26,749 We fly like the breeze. 17 00:02:27,208 --> 00:02:31,582 That's our life. 18 00:02:32,291 --> 00:02:35,207 That's our style. What to do? 19 00:02:35,208 --> 00:02:38,165 If someone minds, what to do? 20 00:02:38,375 --> 00:02:41,957 Everyone's upset with us now. 21 00:02:41,958 --> 00:02:44,207 Just forget it. 22 00:02:46,708 --> 00:02:48,374 Exchange the rings. 23 00:03:05,583 --> 00:03:07,207 'So romantic.' 24 00:03:08,041 --> 00:03:09,790 'Isn't my aunt looking hot? ' 25 00:03:10,291 --> 00:03:11,707 'Actually, she always was.' 26 00:03:12,125 --> 00:03:14,082 'She was Miss. India in 1 982.' 27 00:03:14,541 --> 00:03:17,457 'And the best is, she never let us miss mom.' 28 00:03:18,333 --> 00:03:19,999 'Look at my colonel uncle.' 29 00:03:20,166 --> 00:03:21,915 'He's so handsome, isn't it? ' 30 00:03:22,750 --> 00:03:24,207 'But Those moustaches.' 31 00:03:24,208 --> 00:03:26,249 'He looks like the villains from the 1970s.' 32 00:03:28,500 --> 00:03:31,665 'You know, I introduced uncle and aunt for the first time.. ' 33 00:03:31,666 --> 00:03:33,415 '.. at the Gymkhana club.' 34 00:03:33,833 --> 00:03:35,499 'I made them sit at the same bridge table.. ' 35 00:03:35,500 --> 00:03:38,582 '.. and uncle lost the game but won aunt's heart.' 36 00:03:52,666 --> 00:03:54,374 'Aaliya, my elder sister.' 37 00:03:54,708 --> 00:03:56,915 'She had the same boyfriend from school to college.' 38 00:03:56,916 --> 00:03:58,582 'And she also married him.' 39 00:03:59,000 --> 00:04:00,165 'So boring.' 40 00:04:01,000 --> 00:04:03,374 'You know what? These days, she only thinks about food.' 41 00:04:03,666 --> 00:04:05,332 'Because she's six months' pregnant.' 42 00:04:05,833 --> 00:04:07,832 'All thanks to her one and only boyfriend.. ' 43 00:04:07,833 --> 00:04:11,249 '.. and now my brother-in-law, Karan Burman from Mumbai.' 44 00:04:11,500 --> 00:04:14,082 'How will Aaliya ever fit into her jeans again? ' 45 00:04:18,541 --> 00:04:20,582 Congratulations, Colonel. 46 00:04:21,833 --> 00:04:23,332 'And that's my papa.' 47 00:04:23,333 --> 00:04:24,790 'He's so cute, isn't he? ' 48 00:04:24,791 --> 00:04:27,540 'His small happiness turns into a big party.' 49 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,165 'Add a few tears, drama and butter.. ' 50 00:04:31,166 --> 00:04:33,499 '.. and anyone can be papa's guest.' 51 00:04:35,750 --> 00:04:37,499 'Everyone's so happy.' 52 00:04:38,416 --> 00:04:39,999 'It looks so nice, doesn't it?' 53 00:04:41,625 --> 00:04:43,290 'I planned all this.' 54 00:04:45,791 --> 00:04:47,082 'You know what? ' 55 00:04:47,083 --> 00:04:50,332 'When everything goes as planned, it feels so nice.' 56 00:04:53,208 --> 00:04:55,999 The story of the heart.. 57 00:04:56,000 --> 00:04:58,624 ..I want to tell openly now. 58 00:04:58,625 --> 00:05:02,040 You cant forget if you hear it o

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    1 00:01:09,833 --> 00:01:13,040 Lots of chatting. 2 00:01:13,833 --> 00:01:18,915 Such are our days and nights. 3 00:01:19,458 --> 00:01:23,874 There something going on every moment. 4 00:01:24,208 --> 00:01:30,207 People call us mad. 5 00:01:40,958 --> 00:01:42,582 Are you ready now? 6 00:01:45,833 --> 00:01:47,499 Here we go. 7 00:01:58,416 --> 00:02:00,957 By the way. All the way. 8 00:02:01,375 --> 00:02:04,082 The life that we have got. 9 00:02:04,083 --> 00:02:06,665 It sings. It laughs. 10 00:02:07,291 --> 00:02:09,749 Its a bit crazy. 11 00:02:09,750 --> 00:02:12,332 We fight. We kiss and make up. 12 00:02:12,666 --> 00:02:15,290 Its new every moment. 13 00:02:15,291 --> 00:02:17,957 Its moody. Its stubborn. 14 00:02:18,708 --> 00:02:21,124 I have no idea what to do about it. 15 00:02:21,125 --> 00:02:23,999 You cant stop us. 16 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:26,749 We fly like the breeze. 17 00:02:27,208 --> 00:02:31,582 That's our life. 18 00:02:32,291 --> 00:02:35,207 That's our style. What to do? 19 00:02:35,208 --> 00:02:38,165 If someone minds, what to do? 20 00:02:38,375 --> 00:02:41,957 Everyone's upset with us now. 21 00:02:41,958 --> 00:02:44,207 Just forget it. 22 00:02:46,708 --> 00:02:48,374 Exchange the rings. 23 00:03:05,583 --> 00:03:07,207 'So romantic.' 24 00:03:08,041 --> 00:03:09,790 'Isn't my aunt looking hot? ' 25 00:03:10,291 --> 00:03:11,707 'Actually, she always was.' 26 00:03:12,125 --> 00:03:14,082 'She was Miss. India in 1 982.' 27 00:03:14,541 --> 00:03:17,457 'And the best is, she never let us miss mom.' 28 00:03:18,333 --> 00:03:19,999 'Look at my colonel uncle.' 29 00:03:20,166 --> 00:03:21,915 'He's so handsome, isn't it? ' 30 00:03:22,750 --> 00:03:24,207 'But Those moustaches.' 31 00:03:24,208 --> 00:03:26,249 'He looks like the villains from the 1970s.' 32 00:03:28,500 --> 00:03:31,665 'You know, I introduced uncle and aunt for the first time.. ' 33 00:03:31,666 --> 00:03:33,415 '.. at the Gymkhana club.' 34 00:03:33,833 --> 00:03:35,499 'I made them sit at the same bridge table.. ' 35 00:03:35,500 --> 00:03:38,582 '.. and uncle lost the game but won aunt's heart.' 36 00:03:52,666 --> 00:03:54,374 'Aaliya, my elder sister.' 37 00:03:54,708 --> 00:03:56,915 'She had the same boyfriend from school to college.' 38 00:03:56,916 --> 00:03:58,582 'And she also married him.' 39 00:03:59,000 --> 00:04:00,165 'So boring.' 40 00:04:01,000 --> 00:04:03,374 'You know what? These days, she only thinks about food.' 41 00:04:03,666 --> 00:04:05,332 'Because she's six months' pregnant.' 42 00:04:05,833 --> 00:04:07,832 'All thanks to her one and only boyfriend.. ' 43 00:04:07,833 --> 00:04:11,249 '.. and now my brother-in-law, Karan Burman from Mumbai.' 44 00:04:11,500 --> 00:04:14,082 'How will Aaliya ever fit into her jeans again? ' 45 00:04:18,541 --> 00:04:20,582 Congratulations, Colonel. 46 00:04:21,833 --> 00:04:23,332 'And that's my papa.' 47 00:04:23,333 --> 00:04:24,790 'He's so cute, isn't he? ' 48 00:04:24,791 --> 00:04:27,540 'His small happiness turns into a big party.' 49 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,165 'Add a few tears, drama and butter.. ' 50 00:04:31,166 --> 00:04:33,499 '.. and anyone can be papa's guest.' 51 00:04:35,750 --> 00:04:37,499 'Everyone's so happy.' 52 00:04:38,416 --> 00:04:39,999 'It looks so nice, doesn't it?' 53 00:04:41,625 --> 00:04:43,290 'I planned all this.' 54 00:04:45,791 --> 00:04:47,082 'You know what? ' 55 00:04:47,083 --> 00:04:50,332 'When everything goes as planned, it feels so nice.' 56 00:04:53,208 --> 00:04:55,999 The story of the heart.. 57 00:04:56,000 --> 00:04:58,624 ..I want to tell openly now. 58 00:04:58,625 --> 00:05:02,040 You cant forget if you hear it o

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    391 vizualizări69 pagini

    555 Timer IC

    Încărcat de

    Angga Pradana
    1 00:01:09,833 --> 00:01:13,040 Lots of chatting. 2 00:01:13,833 --> 00:01:18,915 Such are our days and nights. 3 00:01:19,458 --> 00:01:23,874 There something going on every moment. 4 00:01:24,208 --> 00:01:30,207 People call us mad. 5 00:01:40,958 --> 00:01:42,582 Are you ready now? 6 00:01:45,833 --> 00:01:47,499 Here we go. 7 00:01:58,416 --> 00:02:00,957 By the way. All the way. 8 00:02:01,375 --> 00:02:04,082 The life that we have got. 9 00:02:04,083 --> 00:02:06,665 It sings. It laughs. 10 00:02:07,291 --> 00:02:09,749 Its a bit crazy. 11 00:02:09,750 --> 00:02:12,332 We fight. We kiss and make up. 12 00:02:12,666 --> 00:02:15,290 Its new every moment. 13 00:02:15,291 --> 00:02:17,957 Its moody. Its stubborn. 14 00:02:18,708 --> 00:02:21,124 I have no idea what to do about it. 15 00:02:21,125 --> 00:02:23,999 You cant stop us. 16 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:26,749 We fly like the breeze. 17 00:02:27,208 --> 00:02:31,582 That's our life. 18 00:02:32,291 --> 00:02:35,207 That's our style. What to do? 19 00:02:35,208 --> 00:02:38,165 If someone minds, what to do? 20 00:02:38,375 --> 00:02:41,957 Everyone's upset with us now. 21 00:02:41,958 --> 00:02:44,207 Just forget it. 22 00:02:46,708 --> 00:02:48,374 Exchange the rings. 23 00:03:05,583 --> 00:03:07,207 'So romantic.' 24 00:03:08,041 --> 00:03:09,790 'Isn't my aunt looking hot? ' 25 00:03:10,291 --> 00:03:11,707 'Actually, she always was.' 26 00:03:12,125 --> 00:03:14,082 'She was Miss. India in 1 982.' 27 00:03:14,541 --> 00:03:17,457 'And the best is, she never let us miss mom.' 28 00:03:18,333 --> 00:03:19,999 'Look at my colonel uncle.' 29 00:03:20,166 --> 00:03:21,915 'He's so handsome, isn't it? ' 30 00:03:22,750 --> 00:03:24,207 'But Those moustaches.' 31 00:03:24,208 --> 00:03:26,249 'He looks like the villains from the 1970s.' 32 00:03:28,500 --> 00:03:31,665 'You know, I introduced uncle and aunt for the first time.. ' 33 00:03:31,666 --> 00:03:33,415 '.. at the Gymkhana club.' 34 00:03:33,833 --> 00:03:35,499 'I made them sit at the same bridge table.. ' 35 00:03:35,500 --> 00:03:38,582 '.. and uncle lost the game but won aunt's heart.' 36 00:03:52,666 --> 00:03:54,374 'Aaliya, my elder sister.' 37 00:03:54,708 --> 00:03:56,915 'She had the same boyfriend from school to college.' 38 00:03:56,916 --> 00:03:58,582 'And she also married him.' 39 00:03:59,000 --> 00:04:00,165 'So boring.' 40 00:04:01,000 --> 00:04:03,374 'You know what? These days, she only thinks about food.' 41 00:04:03,666 --> 00:04:05,332 'Because she's six months' pregnant.' 42 00:04:05,833 --> 00:04:07,832 'All thanks to her one and only boyfriend.. ' 43 00:04:07,833 --> 00:04:11,249 '.. and now my brother-in-law, Karan Burman from Mumbai.' 44 00:04:11,500 --> 00:04:14,082 'How will Aaliya ever fit into her jeans again? ' 45 00:04:18,541 --> 00:04:20,582 Congratulations, Colonel. 46 00:04:21,833 --> 00:04:23,332 'And that's my papa.' 47 00:04:23,333 --> 00:04:24,790 'He's so cute, isn't he? ' 48 00:04:24,791 --> 00:04:27,540 'His small happiness turns into a big party.' 49 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,165 'Add a few tears, drama and butter.. ' 50 00:04:31,166 --> 00:04:33,499 '.. and anyone can be papa's guest.' 51 00:04:35,750 --> 00:04:37,499 'Everyone's so happy.' 52 00:04:38,416 --> 00:04:39,999 'It looks so nice, doesn't it?' 53 00:04:41,625 --> 00:04:43,290 'I planned all this.' 54 00:04:45,791 --> 00:04:47,082 'You know what? ' 55 00:04:47,083 --> 00:04:50,332 'When everything goes as planned, it feels so nice.' 56 00:04:53,208 --> 00:04:55,999 The story of the heart.. 57 00:04:56,000 --> 00:04:58,624 ..I want to tell openly now. 58 00:04:58,625 --> 00:05:02,040 You cant forget if you hear it o

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    555 timer IC

    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


    Jump to:navigation, search

    NE555 from Signetics in dual-in-line package

    Internal block diagram


    The 555 Timer IC is an integrated circuit (chip) implementing a variety of timer and
    multivibrator applications. The IC was designed by Hans R. Camenzind in 1970 and
    brought to market in 1971 by Signetics (later acquired by Philips). The original name was
    the SE555 (metal can)/NE555 (plastic DIP) and the part was described as "The IC Time
    Machine".[1] It has been claimed that the 555 gets its name from the three 5 k resistors
    used in typical early implementations,[2] but Hans Camenzind has stated that the number
    was arbitrary.[3] The part is still in wide use, thanks to its ease of use, low price and good
    stability. As of 2003, it is estimated that 1 billion units are manufactured every year.[3]
    Depending on the manufacturer, the standard 555 package includes over 20 transistors, 2
    diodes and 15 resistors on a silicon chip installed in an 8-pin mini dual-in-line package
    (DIP-8).[4] Variants available include the 556 (a 14-pin DIP combining two 555s on one
    chip), and the 558 (a 16-pin DIP combining four slightly modified 555s with DIS & THR
    connected internally, and TR falling edge sensitive instead of level sensitive).

    Ultra-low power versions of the 555 are also available, such as the 7555 and TLC555.[5]
    The 7555 requires slightly different wiring using fewer external components and less
    power.
    The 555 has three operating modes:

    Monostable mode: in this mode, the 555 functions as a "one-shot". Applications


    include timers, missing pulse detection, bouncefree switches, touch switches,
    frequency divider, capacitance measurement, pulse-width modulation (PWM) etc
    Astable - free running mode: the 555 can operate as an oscillator. Uses include
    LED and lamp flashers, pulse generation, logic clocks, tone generation, security
    alarms, pulse position modulation, etc.
    Bistable mode or Schmitt trigger: the 555 can operate as a flip-flop, if the DIS pin
    is not connected and no capacitor is used. Uses include bouncefree latched
    switches, etc.

    Contents
    [hide]

    1 Usage
    o 1.1 Monostable mode
    o 1.2 Bistable Mode
    o 1.3 Astable mode
    2 Specifications
    3 Derivatives
    o 3.1 Dual timer 556
    o 3.2 Quad timer 558
    4 Example applications
    o 4.1 Joystick interface circuit using quad timer 558
    o 4.2 Atari Punk Console
    5 References
    6 Bibliography

    7 External links

    [edit] Usage

    Pinout diagram
    The connection of the pins is as follows:
    Pin Name
    1 GND
    2 TRIG
    3 OUT
    4 RESET
    5 CTRL
    6 THR
    7 DIS
    8 V+, VCC

    Purpose
    Ground, low level (0 V)
    OUT rises, and interval starts, when this input falls below 1/3 VCC.
    This output is driven to +VCC or GND.
    A timing interval may be interrupted by driving this input to GND.
    "Control" access to the internal voltage divider (by default, 2/3 VCC).
    The interval ends when the voltage at THR is greater than at CTRL.
    Open collector output; may discharge a capacitor between intervals.
    Positive supply voltage is usually between 3 and 15 V.

    [edit] Monostable mode

    Schematic of a 555 in monostable mode

    The relationships of the trigger signal, the voltage on C and the pulse width in
    monostable mode
    In the monostable mode, the 555 timer acts as a one-shot pulse generator. The pulse
    begins when the 555 timer receives a signal at the trigger input that falls below a third of

    the voltage supply. The width of the pulse is determined by the time constant of an RC
    network, which consists of a capacitor (C) and a resistor (R). The pulse ends when the
    charge on the C equals 2/3 of the supply voltage. The pulse width can be lengthened or
    shortened to the need of the specific application by adjusting the values of R and C.[6]
    The pulse width of time t, which is the time it takes to charge C to 2/3 of the supply
    voltage, is given by

    where t is in seconds, R is in ohms and C is in farads. See RC circuit for an explanation


    of this effect.

    [edit] Bistable Mode


    In bistable mode, the 555 timer acts as a basic flip-flop. The trigger and reset inputs (pins
    2 and 4 respectively on a 555) are held high via pull-up resistors while the threshold input
    (pin 6) is simply grounded. Thus configured, pulling the trigger momentarily to ground
    acts as a 'set' and transitions the output pin (pin 3) to Vcc (high state). Pulling the reset
    input to ground acts as a 'reset' and transitions the output pin to ground (low state). No
    capacitors are required in a bistable configuration. Pin 8 (Vcc) is, of course, tied to Vcc
    while pin 1 (Gnd) is grounded. Pins 5 and 7 (control and discharge) are left floating.

    [edit] Astable mode

    Standard 555 Astable Circuit


    In astable mode, the '555 timer ' puts out a continuous stream of rectangular pulses
    having a specified frequency. Resistor R1 is connected between VCC and the discharge pin
    (pin 7) and another resistor (R2) is connected between the discharge pin (pin 7), and the
    trigger (pin 2) and threshold (pin 6) pins that share a common node. Hence the capacitor
    is charged through R1 and R2, and discharged only through R2, since pin 7 has low
    impedance to ground during output low intervals of the cycle, therefore discharging the
    capacitor.

    In the astable mode, the frequency of the pulse stream depends on the values of R1, R2
    and C:

    [7]

    The high time from each pulse is given by

    and the low time from each pulse is given by

    where R1 and R2 are the values of the resistors in ohms and C is the value of the capacitor
    in farads.

    [edit] Specifications
    These specifications apply to the NE555. Other 555 timers can have better specifications
    depending on the grade (military, medical, etc).
    Supply voltage (VCC)
    Supply current (VCC = +5 V)
    Supply current (VCC = +15 V)
    Output current (maximum)
    Power dissipation
    Operating temperature

    4.5 to 15 V
    3 to 6 mA
    10 to 15 mA
    200 mA
    600 mW
    0 to 70 C

    [edit] Derivatives
    Many pin-compatible variants, including CMOS versions, have been built by various
    companies. Bigger packages also exist with two or four timers on the same chip. The 555
    is also known under the following type numbers:
    Manufacturer
    Custom Silicon Solutions
    Avago Technologies
    ECG Philips
    Exar
    Fairchild Semiconductor
    Harris
    IK Semicon

    Model
    CSS555/CSS555C
    Av-555M
    ECG955M
    XR-555
    NE555/KA555
    HA555
    ILC555

    Remark
    CMOS from 1.2 V, IDD < 5 A

    CMOS from 2 V

    Intersil
    Intersil
    Lithic Systems
    Maxim
    Motorola
    National Semiconductor
    National Semiconductor
    NTE Sylvania
    Raytheon
    RCA
    STMicroelectronics
    Texas Instruments
    Texas Instruments
    USSR
    Zetex
    NXP Semiconductors

    SE555/NE555
    ICM7555
    CMOS
    LC555
    ICM7555
    CMOS from 2 V
    MC1455/MC1555
    LM1455/LM555/LM555C
    LMC555
    CMOS from 1.5 V
    NTE955M
    RM555/RC555
    CA555/CA555C
    NE555N/ K3T647
    SN52555/SN72555
    TLC555
    CMOS from 2 V
    K10061
    ZSCT1555
    down to 0.9 V
    ICM7555
    CMOS

    [edit] Dual timer 556


    The dual version is called 556. It features two complete 555s in a 14 pin DIL package.

    [edit] Quad timer 558


    The quad version is called 558 and has 16 pins. To fit four 555s into a 16 pin package the
    control voltage and reset lines are shared by all four modules. Also for each module the
    discharge and threshold are internally wired together and called timing.

    [edit] Example applications


    [edit] Joystick interface circuit using quad timer 558
    The original IBM personal computer used a quad timer 558 in monostable (or "one-shot")
    mode to interface up to two joysticks to the host computer.[8] In the joystick interface
    circuit of the IBM PC, the capacitor (C) of the RC network (see Monostable Mode above)
    was generally a 10 nF capacitor. The resistor (R) of the RC network consisted of the
    potentiometer inside the joystick along with an external resistor of 2.2 kilohms.[9] The
    joystick potentiometer acted as a variable resistor. By moving the joystick, the resistance
    of the joystick increased from a small value up to about 100 kilohms. The joystick
    operated at 5 V.[10]
    Software running in the host computer started the process of determining the joystick
    position by writing to a special address (ISA bus I/O address 201h).[11][12] This would

    result in a trigger signal to the quad timer, which would cause the capacitor (C) of the RC
    network to begin charging and cause the quad timer to output a pulse. The width of the
    pulse was determined by how long it took the C to charge up to 2/3 of 5 V (or about 3.33
    V), which was in turn determined by the joystick position.[11][13]
    Software running in the host computer measured the pulse width to determine the
    joystick position. A wide pulse represented the full-right joystick position, for example,
    while a narrow pulse represented the full-left joystick position.[11]

    [edit] Atari Punk Console


    One of Forrest M. Mims III's many books was dedicated to the 555 timer. In it, he first
    published the "Stepped Tone Generator" circuit which has been adopted as a popular
    circuit, known as the Atari Punk Console, by circuit benders for its distinctive low-fi
    sound similar to classic Atari games.

    [edit] References
    1. ^ van Roon, "pg. 1"
    2. ^ Scherz, Paul (2000) "Practical Electronics for Inventors," p. 589. McGrawHill/TAB Electronics. ISBN: 978-0070580787. Retrieved 2010-04-05.
    3. ^ a b Ward, Jack (2004). The 555 Timer IC - An Interview with Hans Camenzind.
    The Semiconductor Museum. Retrieved 2010-04-05.
    4. ^ van Roon, Fig 3 & related text.
    5. ^ Jung, Walter G. (1983) "IC Timer Cookbook, Second Edition," pp. 4041. Sams
    Technical Publishing; 2nd ed. ISBN: 978-0672219320. Retrieved 2010-04-05.
    6. ^ van Roon, Chapter "Monostable Mode."
    7. ^ van Roon Chapter: "Astable operation."
    8. ^ Engdahl, pg 1.
    9. ^ Engdahl, "Circuit diagram of PC joystick interface"
    10. ^ Engdahl, "Joystick construction".
    11. ^ a b c Engdahl, "PC analogue joystick interface".
    12. ^ Eggebrecht, p. 197.
    13. ^ Eggebrecht, pp. 197-99

    [edit] Bibliography

    van Roon, Tony (1995). "555 Timer Tutorial" Tony van Roon (VA3AVR) Website.
    Retrieved 2010-04-05.
    Engdahl, Tomi (1994). "PC analogue joystick interface". EPanorama.net.
    Retrieved 2009-06-06.
    Eggebrecht, Lewis C. (1983). "Interfacing to the IBM Personal Computer". Sams
    Publishing. ISBN: 978-0672220272. Retrieved 2010-04-05.

    [edit] External links

    Wikimedia Commons has media related to: 555 timer IC

    CSS555 Data Sheet(PDF) \Custom Silicon Solutions.


    Surtell, Tim (2001). 555 Timer Circuits - the Astable, Monostable and Bistable
    Electronics in Meccano.
    Hewes, John (2010) 555 and 556 Timer Circuits The Electronics Club.
    LF/LM555 Data Sheet(PDF) Fairchild Semiconductor, 2002.
    Falstad, John (2010)Java simulation of 555 oscillator circuit. Falstad.com
    NE555 datasheet (PDF) Collection of 555 Datasheets. DataSheetArchive.com.
    Roca, Juan Carlos Galarza (2007) Using NE 555 as a Temperature DSP "The
    Parallel port as an Input/output Interface" (unpublished book)
    NE555 Frequency and duty cycle calculator for astable multivibrators.
    Daycounter.com. 2004. Notes 20% inaccuracy.
    "Eagleapex" (2007) Time-lapse intervalometer for SLRs using a 555.
    Instructables.com.

    Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer_IC"


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    IC
    Timer
    555
    Home
    Written by Aswan Hamonangan
    Editorial
    Editorial Archive Sunday, 18 January 2009 01:50
    Kalau ditanya apa komponen elektronika yang paling popular

    Main Menu

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    password
    dan serba guna, maka jawabnya adalah IC timer 555. IC timer
    ?
    jenis ini sudah dikenal dan masih populer sampai saat ini
    Forgot
    sejak puluhan tahun yang lalu. Tepatnya IC 555 pertama kali
    your
    dibuat oleh Signetics Corporation pada tahun 1971. IC timer
    username
    555 memberi solusi praktis dan relatif murah untuk berbagai
    ?
    aplikasi elektronik yang berkenaan dengan pewaktuan
    Create an
    (timing). Terutama dua aplikasinya yang paling populer
    account
    adalah rangkaian pewaktu monostable dan osilator astable.
    Jeroan utama komponen ini terdiri dari komparator dan flipflop yang direalisasikan dengan banyak transistor.
    ELab's

    POLLI
    NG

    Apakah anda
    berminat
    mengikuti
    Resolusi Twenty
    pelatihan
    Ten (2010)
    Mikrokontroler
    Wall Following
    Algorithm - Robot
    Ya, karena
    Diablo
    saya pemula
    Gambar 1 : IC Timer 555
    Buku Panduan
    Ya, karena
    Belajar
    saya ingin
    Dari dulu hingga sekarang, prinsip kerja komponen jenis ini
    Mikrokontroler
    yang lebih
    tidak berubah namun masing-masing pabrikan membuatnya
    PIC16F84 (Bagian
    'advance'
    dengan desain IC dan teknologi yang berbeda-beda. Hampir
    2 - akhir)
    Tidak,
    semua pabrikan membuat komponen jenis ini, walaupun
    Buku Panduan
    karena saya
    dengan nama yang berbeda-beda. Misalnya National
    tidak
    Belajar
    Semiconductor menyebutnya dengan LM555, Philips dan
    tertarik
    Mikrokontroler
    Texas Instrument menamakannya SE/NE555. Motorola / ONTidak,
    PIC16F84 (Bagian
    Semi mendesainnya dengan transistor CMOS sehingga
    karena saya
    1)
    komsusi powernya cukup kecil dan menamakannya MC1455.
    sudah tahu
    Prediksi Teknologi
    Philips dan Maxim membuat versi CMOS-nya dengan nama
    Elektronika Tahun ICM7555. Walaupun namanya berbeda-beda, tetapi fungsi
    Vote
    2009
    dan pin diagramnya saling kompatibel satu dengan yang
    lainnya (functional and pin-to-pin compatible). Hanya saja
    MOST READED
    ada beberapa karakteristik spesifik yang berbeda misalnya
    konsumsi daya, frekuensi maksimum dan sebagainya.
    Kapasitor - Prinsip Spesifikasi lebih detail biasanya dicantumkan pada datasheet
    dasar dan
    masing-masing pabrikan. Dulu pertama kali casing dibuat
    spesifikasi
    dengan 8 pin T-package (tabular dari kaleng mirip transistor),
    elektriknya
    namun sekarang lebih umum dengan kemasan IC DIP 8 pin.
    Prinsip Dioda Dioda, Zenner dan Rangkaian Monostable
    LED
    Thyristor - SCR, IC ini didesain sedemikian rupa sehingga hanya memerlukan
    TRIAC dan DIAC sedikit komponen luar untuk bekerja. Diantaranya yang utama
    Prinsip Kerja Catu

    Daya Linear

    adalah resistor dan kapasitor luar (eksternal). IC ini memang


    Operational
    bekerja dengan memanfaatkan prinsip pengisian (charging)
    Amplifier - bagian dan pengosongan (discharging) dari kapasitor melalui resistor
    kedua (analisa
    luar tersebut. Untuk menjelaskan prinsip kerjanya, coba
    rangkaian op-amp perhatikan diagram gambar IC 555 dengan resistor dan
    popular)
    kapasitor luar berikut ini. Rangkaian ini tidak lain adalah
    sebuah rangkaian pewaktu (timer) monostable. Prinsipnya
    rangkaian ini akan menghasilkan pulsa tunggal dengan lama
    tertentu pada keluaran pin 3, jika pin 2 dari komponen ini
    dipicu. Perhatikan di dalam IC ini ada dua komparator yaitu
    Comp A dan Comp B. Perhatikan juga di dalam IC ini ada 3
    resistor internal R yang besarnya sama. Dengan susunan seri
    yang demikian terhadap VCC dan GND, rangkaian resistor
    internal ini merupakan pembagi tegangan. Susunan ini
    memberikan tegangan referensi yang masing-masing besarnya
    2/3 VCC pada input negatif komparator A dan 1/3 VCC pada
    input positif komparator B.

    Gambar 2 : Rangkaian pewaktu monostable


    Pada keadaan tanpa input, keluaran pin 3 adalah 0 (ground
    atau normally low). Transistor Q1 yang ada di dalam IC ini
    selalu ON dan mencegah kapasitor eksternal C dari proses
    pengisisian (charging). Ketika ada sinyal trigger dari 1 ke 0
    (VCC to GND) yang diumpankan ke pin 2 dan lebih kecil dari
    1/3 VCC, maka serta merta komparator B men-set keluaran
    flip-flop. Ini pada gilirannya memicu transistor Q1 menjadi
    OFF. Jika transistor Q1 OFF akan membuka jalan bagi
    resistor eksternal R untuk mulai mengisi kapasitor C
    (charging). Pada saat yang sama output dari pin 3 menjadi
    high (VCC), dan terus high sampai satu saat tertentu yang
    diinginkan. Sebut saja lamanya adalah t detik, yaitu waktu
    yang diperlukan untuk mengisi kapasitor C mencapai
    tegangan 2/3 VCC. Tegangan C ini disambungkan ke pin 6
    yang tidak lain merupakan input positif comp A. Maka jika
    tegangan 2/3 VCC ini tercapai, komparator A akan men-reset
    flip-flop dan serta merta transistor internal Q1 menjadi ON
    kembali. Pada saat yang sama keluaran pin 3 dari IC 555
    tersebut kembali menjadi 0 (GND).
    Berapa lama pulsa yang dihasilkan amat tergantung dari nilai
    resitor dan kapasitor eksternal yang pasangkan. Dari rumus
    ekponensial pengisian kapasitor diketahui bahwa :
    Vt = VCC(1- e-t/RC) .. (1)
    Vt adalah tegangan pada saat waktu t. Jika t adalah waktu
    eksponensial yang diperlukan untuk mengisi kapasitor sampai
    Vt = 2/3 VCC, maka rumus (1) dapat disubstitusi dengan nilai
    ini menjadi :
    2/3 = 1-e-t/RC
    1/3 = e-t/RC
    ln(1/3) = -t/RC dan seterusnya dapat diperoleh
    t = (1.0986123)RC yang dibulatkan menjadi
    t = 1.1 RC
    Inilah rumusan untuk mengitung lamanya keluaran pulsa
    tunggal yang dapat dihasilkan dengan rangkaian monostable

    dari IC 555.
    Rangkaian Astable
    Sedikit berdeda dengan rangkaian monostable, rangkaian
    astable dibuat dengan mengubah susunan resitor dan kapasitor
    luar pada IC 555 seperti gambar berikut. Ada dua buah
    resistor Ra dan Rb serta satu kapasitor eksternal C yang
    diperlukan. Prinsipnya rangkaian astable dibuat agar memicu
    dirinya sendiri berulang-ulang sehingga rangkaian ini dapat
    menghasilkan sinyal osilasi pada keluarannya. Pada saat
    power supply rangkaian ini di hidupkan, kapasitor C mulai
    terisi melalui resistor Ra dan Rb sampai mencapai tegangan
    2/3 VCC. Pada saat tegangan ini tercapai, dapat dimengerti
    komparator A dari IC 555 mulai bekerja mereset flip-flop dan
    seterusnya membuat transistor Q1 ON. Ketika transisor ON,
    resitor Rb seolah dihubung singkat ke ground sehingga
    kapasitor C membuang muatannya (discharging) melalui
    resistor Rb. Pada saat ini keluaran pin 3 menjadi 0 (GND).
    Ketika discharging, tegangan pada pin 2 terus turun sampai
    mencapai 1/3 VCC. Ketika tegangan ini tercapai, bisa
    dipahami giliran komparator B yang bekerja dan kembali
    memicu transistor Q1 menjadi OFF. Ini menyebabkan
    keluaran pin 3 kembali menjadi high (VCC). Demikian
    seterusnya berulang-ulang sehingga terbentuk sinyal osilasi
    pada keluaran pin3. Terlihat di sini sinyal pemicu (trigger)
    kedua komparator tersebut bekerja bergantian pada tegangan
    antara 1/3 VCC dan 2/3 VCC. Inilah batasan untuk
    mengetahui lebar pulsa dan periode osilasi yang dihasilkan.
    Misal diasumsikan t1 adalah waktu proses pengisian kapasitor
    yang di isi melalui resistor Ra dan Rb dari 1/3 VCC sampai
    2/3 VCC. Diasumsikan juga t2 adalah waktu discharging
    kapasitor melalui resistor Rb dari tegangan 2/3 VCC menjadi
    1/3 VCC. Dengan perhitungan eksponensial dengan batasan
    1/3 VCC dan 2/3 VCC maka dapat diperoleh :
    t1 = ln(2) (Ra+Rb)C = 0.693 (Ra+Rb)C
    dan
    t2 = ln(2) RbC = 0.693 RbC

    Gambar 3 : Rangkaian osilator astable


    Periode osilator adalah dapat diketahui dengan menghitung T
    = t1 + t2. Persentasi duty cycle dari sinyal osilasi yang
    dihasilkan dihitung dari rumus t1/T. Jadi jika diinginkan duty
    cycle osilator sebesar (mendekati) 50%, maka dapat
    digunakan resistor Ra yang relatif jauh lebih kecil dari resistor
    Rb.
    Penutup
    Satu hal yang menarik dari komponen IC 555, baik timer
    aplikasi rangkaian monostable maupun frekuensi osilasi dari
    rangkaian astable tidak tergantung dari berapa nilai tegangan
    kerja VCC yang diberikan. Tegangan kerja IC 555 bisa
    bervariasi antara 5 sampai 15 Vdc. Tingkat keakuratan waktu
    (timing) yang dihasilkan tergantung dari nilai dan toleransi
    dari resistor dan kapasitor eksternal yang digunakan. Untuk
    rangkaian yang tergolong time critical, biasanya digunakan

    kapasitor dan resistor yang presisi dengan toleransi yang


    kecil. Pada banyak nota aplikasi, biasanya juga ditambahkan
    kapasitor 10 nF pada pin 5 ke ground untuk menjamin
    kestabilan tegangan referensi 2/3 VCC. Banyak aplikasi lain
    yang bisa dibuat dngan IC 555, salah satu aplikasi yang
    populer lainnya adalah rangkaian PWM (Pulse Width
    Modulation). Rangkaian PWM mudah direalisasikan dengan
    sedikit mengubah fungsi dari rangkaian pewaktu monostable.
    Yaitu dengan memicu pin trigger (pin 2) secara kontiniu
    sesuai dengan perioda clock yang diinginkan, sedangkan lebar
    pulsa dapat diatur dengan memberikan tegangan variabel pada
    pin control voltage (pin5). Di pasaran banyak juga jumpai dua
    timer 555 yang dikemas didalam satu IC misalnya IC LM556
    atau MC1456.
    -endLast Updated on Sunday, 18 January 2009 02:03
    electroniclab.com. Powered by Joomla!
    Valid XHTML and CSS
    Free template 'Feel Free' by [ Anch ] Gorsk.net Studio. Please, don't remove this hidden
    copyleft!

    Kompetisi menulis Bebaskan Pengetahuan 2010 memasuki putaran terakhir. Peserta yang
    lolos ke babak selanjutnya kini bertarung untuk dapat berpartisipasi dalam Wikimania
    2010. Lima peringkat atas telah dikukuhkan pada hari Kebangkitan Nasional 20 Mei
    2010.

    Kondensator
    Dari Wikipedia bahasa Indonesia, ensiklopedia bebas
    Langsung ke: navigasi, cari
    Kondensator atau sering disebut sebagai kapasitor adalah suatu alat yang dapat
    menyimpan energi di dalam medan listrik, dengan cara mengumpulkan
    ketidakseimbangan internal dari muatan listrik. Kondensator memiliki satuan yang
    disebut Farad dari nama Michael Faraday. Kondensator juga dikenal sebagai "kapasitor",
    namun kata "kondensator" masih dipakai hingga saat ini. Pertama disebut oleh
    Alessandro Volta seorang ilmuwan Italia pada tahun 1782 (dari bahasa Itali
    condensatore), berkenaan dengan kemampuan alat untuk menyimpan suatu muatan listrik

    yang tinggi dibanding komponen lainnya. Kebanyakan bahasa dan negara yang tidak
    menggunakan bahasa Inggris masih mengacu pada perkataan bahasa Italia
    "condensatore", bahasa Perancis condensateur, Indonesia dan Jerman Kondensator atau
    Spanyol Condensador.

    Kondensator diidentikkan mempunyai dua kaki dan dua kutub yaitu positif dan
    negatif serta memiliki cairan elektrolit dan biasanya berbentuk tabung.

    Lambang kondensator (mempunyai kutub) pada skema elektronika.


    Sedangkan jenis yang satunya lagi kebanyakan nilai kapasitasnya lebih rendah,
    tidak mempunyai kutub positif atau negatif pada kakinya, kebanyakan berbentuk
    bulat pipih berwarna coklat, merah, hijau dan lainnya seperti tablet atau kancing
    baju.

    Lambang kapasitor (tidak mempunyai kutub) pada skema elektronika.


    Namun kebiasaan dan kondisi serta artikulasi bahasa setiap negara tergantung pada
    masyarakat yang lebih sering menyebutkannya. Kini kebiasaan orang tersebut hanya
    menyebutkan salah satu nama yang paling dominan digunakan atau lebih sering didengar.
    Pada masa kini, kondensator sering disebut kapasitor (capacitor) ataupun sebaliknya
    yang pada ilmu elektronika disingkat dengan huruf (C).

    Kapasitor dalam rangkaian elektronik

    Daftar isi
    [sembunyikan]
    1 Kapasitansi
    2 Wujud dan Macam kondensator
    3 Jenis kondensator

    4 Lihat pula

    [sunting] Kapasitansi
    Satuan dari kapasitansi kondensator adalah Farad (F). Namun Farad adalah satuan yang
    terlalu besar, sehingga digunakan:

    Pikofarad (pF) =
    Nanofarad (nF) =
    Microfarad (
    )=

    Kapasitansi dari kondensator dapat ditentukan dengan rumus:

    C : Kapasitansi
    0 : permitivitas hampa
    r : permitivitas relatif
    A : luas pelat
    d :jarak antar pelat/tebal dielektrik
    Adapun cara memperbesar kapasitansi kapasitor atau kondensator dengan jalan:
    1. Menyusunnya berlapis-lapis.
    2. Memperluas permukaan variabel.
    3. Memakai bahan dengan daya tembus besar.
    Permitivitas Relatif Dielektrik
    Dielektrik
    Permitivitas
    Keramik rugi rendah
    7
    Keramik k tinggi
    50.000
    Mika perak
    6
    Kertas
    4
    Film plastik
    2,8
    Polikarbonat
    2,4
    Polistiren
    3,3
    Poliester
    2,3
    Polipropilen
    8

    Elektrolit aluminium
    Elektrolit tantalum

    25
    35

    [sunting] Wujud dan Macam kondensator


    Karakteristik kondensator
    Frekue
    Sudu
    Teganga Tegang Koefisi nsi
    Resista
    Tolera
    t rugi
    Jangkau
    n AC an DC en suhu pancun
    nsi Stabilita
    nsi
    (
    an
    lazim lazim (ppm/C g fR
    bocora
    s
    (%)
    (V)
    (V)
    )
    (MHz)
    n ()
    )

    Tipe

    Kertas
    Mika
    perak
    Keramik
    Polystyren
    e
    Polyester

    10 nF 10 uF
    5 pF - 10
    nF
    5 pF - 1
    uF
    50 pF 500 nF
    100 pF 2 uF
    1 nF 100 uF

    10%

    500 V

    600 V

    0,5%

    400 V

    10%

    250 V

    400 V

    1%

    150 V

    500 V

    5%

    400 V

    400 V

    Polypropyl
    5% 600 V 900 V
    ene
    Elektrolit
    Terpolari
    1 uF - 1 F 50%
    400 V
    aluminium
    sasi
    Elektrolit 1 uF Terpolari
    10%
    60 V
    tantalum 2000 uF
    sasi

    300
    0,1
    0,01 109
    ppm/C MHz
    100
    10 0,000
    1011
    ppm/C MHz
    5
    30
    10
    0,01 108
    ppm/C MHz
    -150
    10 0,000
    1012
    ppm/C MHz
    5
    400
    1 MHz 0,001 1011
    ppm/C
    170
    0,000
    1 MHz
    1010
    ppm/C
    5
    1500
    0,05
    0,05 108
    ppm/C MHz
    500
    0,1
    0,005 108
    ppm/C MHz

    [sunting] Jenis kondensator


    Berdasarkan kegunaannya kondensator dibagi dalam:
    1. Kondensator tetap (nilai kapasitasnya tetap tidak dapat diubah)
    2. Kondensator elektrolit (Electrolite Condenser = Elco)
    3. Kondensator variabel (nilai kapasitasnya dapat diubah-ubah)

    [sunting] Lihat pula

    Komponen elektronik

    lumayan
    Baik
    sekali
    Baik
    Baik
    sekali
    Cukup
    Cukup
    Cukup
    Baik

    [tampilkan]
    lbs

    Komponen dasar elektronika

    Portal Elektronika

    Diperoleh dari "http://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kondensator"


    Kategori: Kondensator | Penyimpan energi
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    Artikel
    Pembicaraan
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    Halaman ini terakhir diubah pada 10:57, 29 April 2010.


    Teks tersedia di bawah Lisensi Atribusi/Berbagi Serupa Creative Commons;
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    Home | Tutorials | Beginning Embedded Electronics |

    Beginning Embedded Electronics - 1


    Skill level:

    Beginner

    Beginning Embedded Electronics - 1


    by Nate |
    June 19, 2008 |
    42 comments

    Lecture 1 - Background and Power Supply


    This is a series of lectures written for those with mild electronics background (aka Sophomore in
    Electrical and Computer Engineering) to learn about the wild world of Embedded Electronics. I assume
    only that you know what electricity is and that you've touched an electrical component. Everything else
    is spelled out as much as possible. There is quite a lot here so take your time! It is also my intention to
    get book-hardened EE's students to put down the calculator and to plug in an LED. Remember, if it
    smokes, at least you learned what not to do next time!
    You can get all the parts for this lecture here.
    Sorry for the confusion. When these tutorials were written and photographed, we used the ATmega8.
    We now carry the newer ATmega328. You will find all ATmega328 information in the following pages,

    but the pictures will show an ATmega8.


    What's a Microcontroller?
    You may know what an OR gate is. An OR gate is a logic gate that takes two inputs and controls an
    output. You may have played with these types of gates, even possibly a DIP packaged OR gate with 4
    OR gates built into it. This DIP package required a power pin and a ground pin. Electricity flowed
    through the IC and allowed it to operate. You may not be sure how the IC was built, but you understand
    that if you change the inputs, the output changes. You can do this by tying the inputs to either power
    (also known as VCC) or ground (GND). You probably played with one of the DIP ICs in a breadboard.
    If any of this is completely alien to you, don't fret! We'll try to ease you into it.
    A microcontroller is the same as an OR gate. You have some inputs, you have outputs. The crazy thing
    is that a micro runs code. Machine code to be specific. For instance, with a little bit of work, you can
    monitor the input of two pins A and B. And based on those inputs, you can control an output pin C. So
    to replicate an OR gate:
    if (A == 1 || B == 1)
    {
    C = 1;
    }
    else
    {
    C = 0;
    {

    It's C code! You can code up all sorts of different applications, compile code, load it onto a micro,
    power the micro, and the code runs. Very simple! Microcontrollers are used in all the electronics you
    take for granted such as your microwave, TV remote, cell phone, mouse, printer, there's over 150
    microcontrollers embedded into new cars! There's one waiting for you to depress the brakes (BRAKES
    == 1) and for the tires to lock up (LOCK_UP == 1). When this happens, the micro releases the brakes,
    and you have ABS (anti-lock brake system).
    In the old days, microcontrollers were OTP or one-time-programmable meaning you could only
    program the micro once, test the code, and if your code didn't work, you threw it out and tried again.
    Now micros are 'flash' based meaning they have flash memory built inside that allows their code to be
    written and rewritten thousands of times. I've been programming micros for years and always burn out
    the microcontroller far before I hit the limit of flash programming cycles.
    Flash micros are different than computers and RAM. Computers require tons of power and components
    to get up and running. Computers run HOT. Computers take forever and a day to boot. Micros are on
    and running code within milliseconds and if they're warm enough you can feel heat coming off of them,
    something is very wrong and you've probably blown the micro. Oh - and micros cost about $2.
    Now back to that OR gate IC. It had a bunch of pins, all dedicated to being either inputs or outputs of
    the various built-in OR gates (4 gates in one package = 8 inputs, 4 outputs, 2 power/gnd pins). 14 pins
    of fun. Now with a micro, the most basic pin function is GPIO - general purpose input/output. These

    GPIO pins can be configured as an input or an output. Very cool. Each input pin can be monitored and
    acted upon. Example:
    if (PORTC.2 == 1)
    then do something...

    Each output pin can be pushed high or low. Example:


    while(1)
    {
    RB3 = 1;
    delay_ms(1000);
    RB3 = 0;
    delay_ms(1000);
    }

    Guess what that code does? It toggles a pin high/low every 2 seconds. Fancy right? This is the 'Hello
    World' of the microcontroller world. It seems trivial, but by god when you've been trying to get a micro
    up and running after 5 hours of tearing your hair out and you see that LED blinking for the first time,
    it's just glorious!
    What types of microcontrollers are there and how do I get one blinking?
    Here's a very shallow breakdown of the micros in my world:

    PIC - This is the classic micro from Microchip. Very simple, very proven, but it lacks many of
    the features that other mfg's are building into their chips. This is a big deal for me. I was a diehard PIC person for years and I've started to see the limits of PICs and the benefits of other
    micros!
    AVR - This is basically a direct competitor of PICs. They do everything a PIC does, but in my
    new opinion, better, faster, cheaper, and simpler.
    MSP - These are very good micros by Texas Instruments (TI), not as beefy as AVR or PICs.
    However they truly excel at low-power applications. More on this later, but imagine running a
    complete system on one AA battery for 5 years. This is in the realm of nano-amp current
    consumption. Crazy!
    ARM - Why are all these three letters? I don't know actually... ARMs are the new kids on the
    block and they are huge. Very powerful, very low-cost, they are taking over the world but can be
    really intimidating if you've never played with a micro before.
    8051 - The '8051 core' was the de facto standard in 8-bit (and 4-bit!) microcontrollers.
    Developed by Intel in the 1980s, it still seems to be the instruction set they love to teach you in
    college. They are based on archaic, but field proven instruction sets. Very old tech in my humble
    opinion, but these ICs have been significantly improved over the years (now Flash based, ADC,
    SPI, etc.).
    68HC08/11 - Another very common instruction set developed by Motorola. Extremely popular,
    and a micro commonly taught at university, it's the microcontroller I love to hate. These original

    micros often lack on-board RAM and flash based memory.


    Google any of these for more info. I have chosen the ATmega168 as the learning IC of choice. Why?

    20 MIPs (million instructions per second!) is powerful enough to do some really cool projects
    It's cheap! $2.13 currently
    It's got all the goodies under the hood (UART, SPI, I2C, ADC, internal osc, PWM, kitchen sink,
    etc)
    16K of program memory is enough for almost any beginner project
    The tools are free! (C compilers for many of the other micros cost a lot of money)
    The programming and debugging tools are low cost ($20 will get you started)

    With a little work and probably $40 worth of parts, you too can get an LED blinking. As with any new
    hobby (also known as a drug addiction), the extra cost of 'goodies' can grow very quickly.
    You want to play microcontrollers today?
    With any IC, you need to power the thing. There are two power connections on basic micros : VCC and
    GND. What the heck is VCC? This is the label for the positive voltage. Don't worry, after a few days of
    this, seeing 'VCC' will become very normal. GND is short for ground. All electrical current needs a way
    to flow back to ground. This can be called 'common' but is often just labeled GND.
    There are thousands of different micros out there, but 5V (five volts) is the typical VCC. 3.3V is also
    typical but you'll also see 2.8V and 1.8V VCCs on more exotic micros. For now, just worry about 5V
    and GND.
    Where do I find this 5V?
    You can get all the parts for this lecture here.
    You need to hook up 5V and GND to your micro. Your house outlet runs at 110V AC (or 220V for
    many countries). AC = alternating current and is very bad for 5V DC (direct current) micros. So you'll
    need to convert the 110V AC from your outlet to a useable 5V DC.
    Quick note: If you reverse the connection on your micro - bad things happen. Always make sure your
    5V power supply is connected to the VCC pins and GND to GND. If you reverse this and connect 5V to
    GND on the micro and GND to VCC on the micro, things won't explode, probably no smoke, things
    will probably heat up like crazy, and you'll probably damage your $2 micro. You probably will. I did.
    Many times. Try not to do it.
    Ok! You need 5V. Time to build a simple voltage regulator circuit!
    You can buy something called a 'wall wart'. Don't ask me why they call it that, ask google. A wall wart
    takes a higher voltage and converts it to a lower voltage. DO NOT assume a wall wart labeled '5V' will
    output 5V. This is a major misconception - I know, I know, faulty advertising. Just hook up your
    multimeter to the barrel plug and see what voltage you read. Probably more like 8 or 9V. This will kill

    your micro so keep reading! For a more detailed explanation check out the Unregulated Power Supply
    Tutorial.
    Let's assume you are using a wall wart with an output of something nice like 9V. Dandy. Unfortunately
    this 9V output is rather noisy - meaning there is a lot of ripple. Ok what does ripple mean? You want a
    DC voltage meaning you want a solid voltage (the opposite of alternating). A wall wart uses some
    cheap tricks to get 110V AC down to 9V DC. So the DC signal coming out of the wall wart tends to
    alternate 100-500mV. Instead of a solid 9VDC, you see a signal that rises and falls between 8.5 and 9.5
    volts. This 'ripple' can cause havoc with your system, and 9V is too high (we need 5V!) so we need to
    pass 110V through this wall wart, and send the 9V through a regulator to get down to a clean 5V DC
    signal. If this all sounds scary - don't worry. After you get your 5V power system built, you'll wonder
    why you were scared in the first place (it's simple, I swear).
    The most common regulator is called the LM7805. Why? I dunno. I've never actually touched a
    component with LM7805 stamped on the outside. There's always other letters stamped on the outside
    like 'LM7805' or 'LV78X05' or some such crazyiness. Just know that there are many many
    manufacturers out there and they are all producing the same basic part, with small tweaks to each one.
    What you need is one of these generic parts that is designated as a '5V linear regulator'. If you're
    playing in a breadboard, you'll also want it in the TO-92 or TO-220 package. More about packages in a
    later lecture, just go with it for the moment.
    You've got your regulator in hand, you've got the wall wart. Time to connect them up.

    Here you can see the 'pin-out' of the LM7805. Say 'IGO' in your head and commit this to memory
    (input, ground, output). You'll probably hook up a lot of these. When in doubt, always check the
    datasheet before hooking up a new part - or else be close to the on/off switch! Input is the input voltage
    of anything greater than about 7V. GND is ground. Output is the 5V output pin. Your wall wart should
    have two wires. One is 9V, the other is GND. All grounds need to be connected together for current to
    flow across the system. One more time - connect all grounds. This is the #2 reason why novii can't get a
    system to work. For our breadboard, we will be inputting 9V (or whatever transformer you've got up to

    about 15V) and outputting 0V (GND) and 5V to our breadboard rails.

    We are going to go through a bunch of iterations of the power supply, adding parts as we go. Shown
    above, we have a basic regulator configuration. 9V in, we should see a rough 5V on the output.
    Schematic note: The two ground pins are not shown connected. We assume that nets (the green wires)
    of the same name are connected together. Schematics can get big and complex, so you won't see all the
    wires together, but in your breadboard you need to connect all the GND pins together. In this case it's
    the GND wire from your wall wart connected to the GND pin on the regulator.
    Cool. But why doesn't the multimeter read 5.000V? Electronics are not that good. The cheap-o
    regulators are +/-5% tolerate meaning you'll see between 5.25 and 4.75V. In practice, you should see
    between 5.1 and 4.9V with most run of the mill regulators. You can of course spend many $$ and get
    tighter tolerances but 5.1-4.9V will work fine for our purposes.
    Now we should be worried about ripple. There is noise coming in the input pin, the regulator tries hard,
    but some of that noise gets onto the output pin. Your multimeter says 5.08V, but that's because it's
    averaging many readings together and showing you only the average. Do you know someone with a
    oscilloscope? If so, show them this tutorial and ask them to show you the noise on your 5V rail. With
    no filtering caps, you could see as much as 200mV of noise.
    Whoa - what's a filtering cap? Filtering capacitors are large bulky capacitors that help smooth out
    ripple. There've been lots of analogies about capacitors so here's another one for ya:
    Capacitors act like water tanks. When your circuit pulls a bunch of water out of the system, the
    capacitor helps hold the voltage up temporarily until the power system can catch up. For example: you
    may live in a city with water and water pressure. If you take a shower you affect the pressure in the
    municipal water system ever so slightly. If everyone turned on their shower and flushed every toilet in
    the city, odds are the water pressure would fluctuate quite a bit! A big water tank helps minimize these
    pressure fluctuations. A big cap helps minimize the voltage fluctuations on your breadboard.

    Is this something you can see happen? Unfortunately not really. You can probably run your system
    without filtering caps, but it's not good engineering practice. Give it a whirl without caps! But when
    things don't work, you'll wonder if it's the caps, or your code, or your timing, or maybe you blew out
    the sensor. Too many unknowns will make you crazy. My recommendation: just use a couple basic
    caps...

    100uF (one-hundred micro farad) on the input and 10uF on the output. You will use a lot of 100uF and
    10uF around power systems and you will eat 0.1uF (point one micro farad) caps like candy around
    micros. These two caps should smooth the input into the regulator and will smooth the output nicely.
    Capacitors cannot deliver their stored energy instantaneously. Larger caps (1ouF and 100uF) store more
    energy, but they react more slowly. The smaller the capacitor, the faster it can deliver its stored energy.
    If you have a large power outage (power dips for 10-100ms), a big cap (100uF to 1000uF) will help
    'hold up' the falling voltage. A smaller cap (0.1uF) will help suppress higher frequency noise and
    shorter power dips (noise in the 1us to 100us range). Therefore, 0.1uF caps are located near the
    microcontroller to help with short bursts, where 100uF and 10uF caps are used on the power rails.
    Now you see the schematic symbol looks a bit odd. What's with + and curved lines? This schematic
    component is indicating that the 100uF and 10uF cap are polarized. Oh jeebus, what's that? Time for a
    capacitor breakdown:

    Electrolytic caps: These are larger caps capable of storing 10uF to 1,000,000s of farads. They
    are cheap and great for bulk capacitance. They are polarized meaning there is a positive pin and
    a negative pin.

    The cap has a minus '-' sign on the cover indicating that pin needs to go to GND.

    Ceramic caps: These are the cheapest and most common cap you'll play with on a breadboard.
    They are NOT polarized so you can stick em in the breadboard any way you want. Ceramic caps
    cannot handle as large of capacitance as electrolytics so you'll need both on your breadboard
    system.

    There are many more different kinds of capacitors but for the sake of your head exploding, we
    won't cover them here.

    Okay - now you need to work through some logic here. You know the positive part of the 100uF cap
    needs to be connected to the input pin, but only the negative pin is marked. Yes it's confusing - but
    you'll get used to it. Negative marked pin goes to ground, the other goes to the input pin.
    What happens if you get them switched? Well here's where things may go poof.

    From the left: Bad, good, ugly


    This is what happens when you over-voltage or reverse voltage a polarized capacitor. The middle cap is
    normal. The cap on the left, you can see the top is slightly raised up. This is what happens when the
    electrolyte inside expands. And the cap on the right shows us what happens when this pressure is so
    great, it busts through the metal top. Notice the '+' imprinted into the tops of these caps? That imprint is
    there so that if the pressure does build up, the cap will fail like the unit on the right - rather than
    blowing the top half of the cap across the room.
    This picture was taken from the inside of an old Gateway computer (circa 1999). Gateway had used
    some 'marginal' 1000uF/16V capacitors. The /16V means they are rated to 16V. A 16V rating means
    they can withstand voltages up to 16V but no more. These caps were sitting on the 12V rail to smooth
    out the ripple but obviously they where failing. Gateway was trying to save $0.50 by using a capacitor
    that was too close to the maximum. Manufacturing is not perfect! With any production run, the
    population of capacitors and their tolerance looks like a bell curve. The majority of the 16V rated caps
    can withstand 16V. Some can 18V, even 22V! But the tolerance bell curve goes both ways; a small
    number of the capacitors rated at 16V will fail at 10V, some at 8V. You get a big enough ripple on the
    12V line and you could pop the 16V rated cap. This is why most engineers talk of 'de-rating' capacitors.
    If you have a 5V rail, you do not stick a 5V rated cap on the rail! A good rule of thumb is to de-rate any
    capacitor by 50%. So a 12V cap is good to be used on 6V rail, 24V cap on a 12V rail, etc.
    Guess what happens when an electrolytic cap fails like the ones above? They quit working. In most
    cases, they 'fail safe' meaning they won't work as a capacitor anymore but they won't short to ground.
    The real fun begins when the failure is so bad that the internals fuse together and you get a short to

    ground - then you can have some fun melt downs! In the case of this computer, the motherboard had all
    sorts of bad software failures because the power supply had too much ripple! The big filtering caps on
    the power supply had failed so the 12V was all over the place.
    Similar failures can happen if you reverse the polarization of the cap. If the voltage is low (less than
    around 25V) the cap will probably just be damaged a bit. If you've got a vacuum bell sitting around and
    you want to really cause some damage, ask a trained professional to hook up 10V cap backwards to
    10,000V. It should instantaneously blow up like a pop corn kernel.
    For your power supply filtering caps, I recommend using a 25V rated 100uF cap (100uF/25V) on the
    input and a 10uF/10V cap on the output. Engineers will tell you to 'derate' the cap by 50% meaning if
    the label says 100V don't trust it past 50V. This is generally good practice. Following this idea, our
    100uF/25V is good for inputs up to about 12.5V before we should worry that we may pop the
    electrolytes. Again, not mandatory, just don't expect a 5V rated cap to withstand a 9V input.
    Back to our power supply! Don't worry about blowing things up just yet, you should be at low enough
    voltages you won't do any harm. Again, if things heat up/smoke/spark, just unplug or turn off the
    system. Speaking of turning things off - we need a power switch!

    This will allow you to turn on/off the system. Handy. It can get really annoying pulling and inserting
    the power wires to power/kill your system.
    Inside the small black enclosure, is a switch. The switch has three pins. It looks like a see-saw inside.
    The center pin is always connected to the middle of the see-saw and as you slide the switch back and
    forth, the see-saw rocks up and down. Slide the switch forward and the see-saw shorts from the center
    pin to the forward pin. Slide the switch back and the see-saw disconnects from the forward pin and
    shorts to the rear pin. We recommend you connect power to the center pin of the switch. When you
    slide the switch forward, power will short to an unconnected pin and do nothing (no power to your
    system). Slide the switch back and the center power pin will short to the wire running into your

    regulator, delivering power to your system (power on!).


    Remember all the warning about reversing VCC and GND and how that is bad? Well if you connect
    your power supply backwards, that's bad. So let's protect ourselves!

    That's a diode (marked D1). A diode lets current flow in one direction (in the direction of the arrow)
    and it blocks current from flowing in the opposite direction. This will allow 9V to flow in the right
    direction, and if you accidentally hook your power supply up the wrong way, it will block current from
    flowing backwards and damaging your system. Is it overkill? Pretty close. But we always design them
    into our development boards because we don't know what type of power supply you knuckleheads (also
    known as our paying customers) will plug on to our boards. If you plug the wrong type of wall wart
    onto a board, we want to protect you from yourself.
    There are some down sides to a protection diode:

    All diodes have a voltage drop, meaning 9V on one side will drop to about 8.5V on the other. So
    your 9V wall wart just became 8.5V.
    Diodes have a current rating. If you try to suck 1A (1 amp) through a 0.1A (one hundred miliamp) rated diode, the diode will quickly heat up and fail. For reverse protection, we recommend
    a 1A 1N4001 diode. These are dirt cheap and very common.

    Note that diodes are polarized. They have a direction that you need to pay attention to. Many diodes
    have a band indicating the cathode. What's a cathode? Go google. All you really need to know is that
    the line on the schematic part is the same as the line on the diode. If you can't remember which is
    which, remember 'arrow is for anode'. Cheesy, yes.
    So if you want to install this 'reverse protection diode', the 9V from your wall wart goes into the end of
    the diode without the band (the anode). The banded end (cathode) goes into your switch. Your switch
    then goes into the input. Throw the switch and you should see 5V on the output using your multimeter.
    Nifty. But I am tired of using my multimeter each time to check the 5V output. There must be a better

    way! Time to wire in the power LED.


    Light emitting diodes (LEDs) are bits of silicon that light up when current flows through them. Go
    google for the science. As a general rule of thumb, LEDs can have 20mA max current flowing through
    them before they begin to fail.

    So if you hooked up your LED like in the above schematic, it would light up very bright for a split
    second and then burn out. That's cause the LED is a diode and the current will flow from the anode
    (arrow) to the cathode (line) to ground - uncontrolled! The silicon will flow current at something like 1
    amp for a split second and burn up. To limit this current flow to 20mA, we need Ohm's law. Yea, the
    book worms in the room suddenly perked up:
    V = IR (this is Ohm's law)
    If we have 5V, and we only want 20mA flowing through the LED:
    5V = 0.02 * R
    R = 250 Ohm
    Now this is not completely true because the LED has a forward voltage drop, but don't worry too much
    about that. Hooking up LEDs is very common with micros. All you need to remember is that you're
    going to need to limit the current. The most basic way to do this is with a resistor. 220 Ohms will work
    (LED will be brighter), 330Ohm is also good (LED a bit dimmer), 1K (1000) will work as well. 220,
    330, and 1K are more common resistor values.
    I highly recommend you get your hands dirty. Hook up an LED to a 1k resistor, then a 330, then a 220,
    100, 50, then finally blow the thing up by hooking it with no resistor. That was fun right? Good. You
    had a back-up right? Once the bit of silicon inside the LED is burned out, it is no good and the LED can
    be thrown away.

    Eagle schematic / PDF


    Our final power supply circuit. It seems like a lot of work, but once you set this up on your breadboard,
    you might never take it off. This is the basis for all things micro. The input voltage may change, the
    output voltage may change (to 3.3V for example), but the basics are all there. Flip the switch and you
    should have a nice 5V rail and an LED letting you know that everything is a-ok. If the LED does not
    light up, that means that something else on the 5V rail is sucking so much current that the LED cannot
    light up. This is a very strong indicator something is wrong. If you turn on your system and the
    Power LED does not turn on, immediately turn off the system and check your wiring.
    You may be wondering if the resistor/LED order matters. It does not. The resistor can come first and
    then the LED or as shown. Either configuration will correctly limit current through the LED.
    If you think you may have blown up your LED then your LED will never turn on. You may want to
    check your power system with a multimeter instead.
    Good, you've made it this far. Now for some technical info about ripple/noise and why it's bad.
    If you've got major ripple on your power rail, say 500mV or more, this can cause your micro to latchup.
    This means that it was running fine a 4.8V, but at 4.3V it's not happy and will go into an unknown state.
    When the rail returns to 4.8V (because the ripple is bouncing the rail up and down), the micro goes
    from unknown to possibly latching up or freezing up. This is pretty rare these days because the chip
    manufacturers have done a good job of internally protecting against this, but in general, ripple is bad.
    Say you've got 500mV of ripple on your system and you're doing analog to digital conversions off of a
    temperature sensor. The temp sensor has an output pin that will output an analog voltage that will vary
    100mV for every 1 degree C. So at 25 degrees C (room temperature) the sensor will output 2500mV or
    2.5V. If your micro is doing analog-to-digital conversions on this signal, it has to compare what it
    'thinks' is a solid power rail of 5V against this changing analog signal from the temperature sensor. Well
    if your 5V 'solid' rail has 500mV of ripple, the micro doesn't know this, and will report a regular 2.5V
    reading as varying between ~3.0V (3000mV = 30C) and ~2.0V (2000mV = 20C). This is wildly bad.

    You need a good 'clean' power rail if you are doing anything with analog signals.

    Now some notes and photos on breadboards:


    Go read Tom Igoe's breakdown of the breadboard. In short, the power rails (the red/blue rows) are
    connected internally. The columns within the main area of the board are interconnected. So you can
    insert a wire into one hole and it will be electrically connected to a neighboring hole (vertical
    connections for the numbered columns, and horizontal connections for the blue/red power rails).
    Historically, the blue rail or the horizontal row of holes next to the blue line is 'GND' or ground. You
    can connect all the ground pins of all your components to this rail. Similarly, the red rail is for VCC. In
    our case, this is 5 volts.

    Power jack, switch, LM7805, power LED


    Here you can see power from the barrel jack being delivered to the slide switch, and then to the input
    pin of the v-reg. When the switch is thrown to the on position, the yellow LED turns on.
    I cheated a bit.
    Do you see that odd thing in the upper right corner of the picture? That is my wall wart plugged into a
    DC barrel jack. Most wall warts are terminated with a round connector called a 'barrel'. The outside
    metal sheath is ground, and the inside metal is 9V. The two metal contacts are isolated. The DC barrel

    jack accepts this wall wart barrel (wall wart barrel slides into the jack with some friction to hold it in
    place). I don't like hacking the ends off power supplies and inserting the bare wires into a breadboard.
    Having energized bare wires bothers me. If the wires get pulled out of the breadboard because you
    kicked out the power cord, you'll have some tense moments until you get the power brick unplugged.
    So I soldered some short leads to the barrel jack so that I can plug/unplug my power cable from the
    breadboard. Easier to transport.
    See the orange wire at the end of the barrel jack? That pin inside the DC barrel jack connects to the
    center of the wall wart barrel. The center of our wall wart barrel connectors are '+' or 'hot' or '9V',
    whatever you want to call it. So the end of the DC barrel jack is soldered to an orange wiring meaning it
    is '+'. This orange wire is then connected to the center pin of the power switch.
    All ground connections are connected together. You will see a small black wire underneath the DC
    barrel jack. This is the pin that connects to the outside sheath of the wall wart barrel. This is the ground
    connection on the wall wart. This small black wire connects the ground of the wall wart to the ground
    on the breadboard.
    I did not install a reverse protection diode. I *only* use center positive power supplies so I know I'm
    safe. If you do anything similar, check your wall wart carefully with a multimeter before doing any
    testing.
    Note: Our breadboard will have 5V and 0V rails. The blue rail is GND (considered 0V). Red is VCC
    (or called 5V).
    Note on LEDs: LEDs are a polar device meaning you've got to hook them up in the correct direction.
    Light emitting diodes (LED) have a cathode and an anode. How do you tell the difference? Imagine the
    schematic element:

    An LED
    Do you see the arrow? Do you see the flat line? A is for arrow. A is for anode. The physical LED will
    have a flat side corresponding to the flat line (the cathode) in the schematic picture. And there you go!
    When connecting an LED, you know that diodes only pass current in one direction (from anode to
    cathode - in the direction of the arrow!) so the flat side of the LED needs to be connected to ground
    some how (usually through a resistor first) and the other side (remember arrow) is the anode and needs

    to be connected to power for current to flow. If you hook it up backwards, it won't turn on, and you
    might damage the LED but probably not. Just verify that you've got 5V on the correct rail and then flip
    your LED around if need be.

    Power supply with 10uF and 100uF caps in place


    Note the polarization of the caps. The larger 100uF cap is directly connected to the Input and GND pins
    of the v-reg. The '-' sign is connected to the ground pin. The smaller 10uF is connected on the power
    rails. The '-' sign (in white) is connected to ground, the opposite leg is inserted into the '+' rail. The
    power LED is on!
    Note: The center pin of the wall transformer is connected to the red wire on the rear of the barrel jack.
    This short wire is then routed by another wire to the slide switch. Do not connect this center pin/9V
    source to the power rail on your breadboard!
    The slide switch has three legs. The center pin is considered the 'common' pin. If the switch is thrown to
    the right, there is a connection from the center pin to the right pin. Slide it to the left and a connection to
    the left pin is made. When dealing with power, we want the raw voltage (9V in our case) delivered to
    the center pin of the switch. When I slide the switch to the left (as pictured above), current is allowed to
    flow from the center pin to the left pin and on to the voltage regulator. When I slide the switch to the
    right, the center pin is connected to the right pin (which is not connected to anything). In this state,
    current does not flow anywhere and the breadboard remains powered down. Voila! We have a power
    switch.

    Power LED is not lighting!


    This picture is key. When I initially wired up this circuit, I flipped the switch and the power LED didn't
    light. That was VERY bad indicating there is a massive short somewhere. Even the good guys screw up
    now and again. Whip out your trusty multimeter and start probing in continuity mode.
    Quick note: I highly recommend you purchase a multimeter with a 'continuity' feature built in. This
    mode allows you to 'tone' out circuits. In this mode, if you touch the two probes together, you should
    hear a tone indicating that there is a direct connection between one probe and the other (obviously - you
    have them touching!). This feature is used countless times during trouble shooting. In the above
    example, by probing from one GND rail to another, I noticed that I could not get a tone. Therefore,
    there was a break in the circuit somewhere which lead me to realize the breaks in the rails.
    If you've got a medium sized breadboard such as the one shown above, you'll notice something horribly
    odd. The various holes of the power rails are not connected!

    The yellow lines show what holes are inter-connected and where the breaks occur
    There is a reason why the power rails are broken. If you have a breadboard with multiple and different
    power rails, you cannot share them on the same row of holes. So modern breadboards break the rails up
    so that you can isolate different parts of your circuit. For example, if you were building a really
    complex design you may need to have 5V and 3.3V on the same board. Because the rails are isolated
    from each other, you could just use various strips around your breadboard to be designed at 5V, 2.8V,
    etc. For the purposes of this tutorial (and for almost all breadboarding) we assume that you'll only be
    using 5V and GND. Therefore, we need to use short jumper wires to interconnect all the isolated rails,
    forming one continuous 5V rail and one continuous GND rail.
    When I first wired up my power supply, I only had the long black/red jumpers on the right side of the
    board, but didn't have the small jumpers in the middle of the rails. Without these middle jumpers, only
    the bottom left rails (next to the 5V supply) actually have 5V and GND. Since the LED is connected to
    the upper left power and ground rails, the LED never got power! Therefore, you will probably need to
    use very short jumper wires (and some long ones on the end) to connect all the '+' rails (5V) together
    and all the '-' rails (GND) together.
    Some additional nit-picky notes about breadboarding:
    1. You won't listen to this rule. Neither did I initially. Use a few different colors of wire! It's really
    helpful to see where the power and gnd wires go if GND is black and 5V is red. I wired 200
    connections using only orange. When things didn't work, it was hard to figure out where all the
    connections went.
    2. Don't worry about super-tight wires, and don't use huge loops. When cutting and stripping wire
    for breadboard connections, don't spend exorbitant amounts of time making the wire perfectly
    flat. It doesn't matter. That said, don't use 9" of wire when 1" will do. Make it clean.
    3. The 'making things clean' rule applies to LEDs, resistors, and crystals as well. Clip the legs! If

    you've got OCD like I do, it can be hard to permanently alter a part in this way. What if I need
    the legs to reach further away on a future project?! It's ok. Resistors cost $0.005 each. If in the
    future, you need a resistor with full legs to reach from point A to point B, just get a new one. It's
    not worth having lots of exposed legs that could bend and short to other exposed legs.
    Now with your power supply built up, turn your multimeter to voltage and check your board voltage by
    probing from the Blue rail (0V or GND) and the red rail (5V or VCC).
    Note: To use a multimeter you need to use both probes. Voltage refers to a potential. Using only one
    probe will get you nothing because you have to compare something against something else. In our
    world, we assume ground is 0V. So touch your black probe to any ground connection. Now you can
    measure the voltage on any other pin with the red probe. In the picture below, the black probe is
    touching the ground rail (0V), and the red probe is touching the 5V rail - thus we are viewing the what
    voltage is exposed on the red probe compared to ground. If we put both probes on the 5V rail, the
    multimeter would show 0V because there is no difference in voltage between the probes.
    Guess what happens when you push the black probe against the 5V rail and the red probe against the
    ground rail? The multimeter will show -5V. This is because the multimeter assumes the black probe is
    touching 0V. There is still a difference of 5V between the probes so the multimeter shows -5V.

    4.98V on the 5V rail

    So you don't have 5.000V. Nothing in engineering is perfect. If you're within 100mV you're doing just
    fine. These cheap-o voltage regulators are cheap for a reason - and we don't need high-precision. 4.9V
    to 5.1V is just fine.
    Congratulations! You've built up your very first breadboard! Now leave this 5V power supply wired in
    your breadboard! You are going to use it many times...

    A 500mA PTC
    Quick Note: PTCs are your friend! PTC = positive temperature coefficient. Beginners will often create
    shorts or accidentally hook things up backwards. A PTC (also known as a thermistor) is a device that
    will increase in resistance as current flows through it. These PTCs can be designed so that at a certain
    current flow (let's say 500mA), the resistance increases dramatically, thus limiting the current flow.
    Basically, the PTC acts as a resettable fuse! You will want to place this device in series, before your
    voltage regulator. If your circuit draws more than 500mA (if you short power to ground for instance),
    the PTC will heat up and limit the current to 250mA. Once you remove the short, the current will drop
    back down, the PTC will cool off and the circuit will start operating normally again. Very cool little
    component that has saved many of my designs from smoking.

    This is how the PTC looks in circuit. The PTC is wired in line. As the current of the circuit flows
    through the PTC, it will trip if the current is too large, cutting off the rest of the system.
    We love feedback! Please report typos, comments, or recommendations to spark@sparkfun.com.

    Lecture 1 - Background and Power Supply


    Lecture 2 - How to Get Code Onto a Microcontroller
    Lecture 3 - What is an oscillator?
    Lecture 4 - UART and Serial Communication
    Lecture 5 - AVR GCC Compiling
    Lecture 6 - Soldering Basics
    Lecture 7 - SMD Soldering
    Lecture 8 - Eagle: Schematics
    Lecture 9 - Eagle: PCB Layout
    Lecture 10 - Eagle: Creating a new part
    Common Mistakes, Tips and Tricks
    Back to Tutorials

    Comments
    42 comments
    Log in to post comments.
    by
    xxxlepexxx
    +1.3
    | Aug 29, 2008 at 4:30pm
    +0.53
    Thanks a lot, this tutorial is great, it has everything an electronic should know, even the
    obvious but tricky things. I saved it completely.

    by
    Estwald
    +1
    | Sep 5, 2008 at 3:27am
    0
    Great tutorial, a nice addition for the totally inexperienced would be to add the diagrams
    for center positive and center negative barrel connectors.
    by
    tj
    +2.4
    | Sep 7, 2008 at 11:46pm
    +0.15
    That was really nice tutorial. I have a bachelors in engineering and have not used
    electronic circuits in a while, so it really helped refresh a lot of things. Thanks for doing
    that.

    by
    wuziq
    +1.2
    | Nov 3, 2008 at 2:20pm
    +0.15
    really nice tutorial, i actually read the whole thing, and i never knew i could get so
    excited about a regulated power supply.. :D
    by
    Penguinator
    +1.4
    | Nov 10, 2008 at 5:43am
    +0.15
    Thanks for writing that article, I've learned more from reading this than I have in a long
    time! Very well written and easy to understand, which is different from many other books
    and articles I've tried to read on electronics.
    by
    nedium
    +2.6
    | Nov 17, 2008 at 1:06pm
    +0.15
    Thanks for very very helpful, easy to understand tutorial.
    But, i have a question. How should we use PTC?
    Serial connection as a resistor or like a cap?
    It would be very good if you can integrate PTC to schematic.
    by
    Nate
    | Dec 3, 2008 at 9:26am
    Good question - it is wired in line. I've added an updated schematic upon your request.
    Checkout the end of this page near the PTC image.

    by
    Gillerire

    +1
    | Dec 2, 2008 at 5:55pm
    0
    I agree with the comment above; could you please add some more explanation of the
    PTC and how it connects to the circuit.
    Also, I have always wondered about the values of filtering capacitors. Why do you use
    100uF on one side and 10uF on the other? When should a 0.1uF be used?
    The explanation of the capacitor max voltage was very helpful. Something I never knew
    about.
    by
    Nate
    | Dec 3, 2008 at 9:29am
    Good points. I've added more on the PTC and caps. Larger caps obviously store more
    energy, but they react more slowly. If you have a large power outage (power dips for
    10-100ms), a big cap (100uF to 1000uF) will help 'hold up' the falling voltage. A
    smaller cap (0.1uF) will help suppress higher frequency noise and shorter power dips
    (noise in the 1us to 100us range). Therefore, 0.1uF caps are located near the
    microcontroller to help with short bursts, where 100uF and 10uF caps are used on the
    power rails.

    by
    Gillerire
    +1
    | Dec 11, 2008 at 5:51pm
    0
    Thanks Nate :)
    by
    peterb
    +1.4
    | Jan 6, 2009 at 3:55am
    0
    this is a great tutorial, having fun.
    when i set up my power supply though, i'm only getting 4V on the rails. why would that

    be?
    thanks,
    Peter
    by
    cpjolicoeur
    +1.3
    | Jan 6, 2009 at 7:00am
    0
    I'm still relatively new to electronics and have a question. When talking about the LED
    you mentioned:
    "You may be wondering if the resistor/LED order matters. It does not. The resistor can
    come first and then the LED or as shown. Either configuration will correctly limit current
    through the LED."
    Why is this so? I don't understand why you can put the resistor on either side of the LED.
    Wouldn't the resister need to come before the LED to resist the flow of power into the
    LED? How does it help afterwards when the power has already gone through the LED?
    by
    TBaumg
    +2
    | Jan 6, 2009 at 1:22pm
    0
    cpjolicoeur,
    An LED and Resistor in series create a single path(circuit) for electricity to flow through.
    It doesnt matter if the resistor is before or after the LED because the total impedance of
    that circuit is limited by the resistor.
    It is similar to a water hose and a valve. The valve is like a resistor; it can limit how much
    water can flow through it. It doesnt matter if the valve is at the supply side or the open
    side of the hose, the end result will be the same limited amount of water.
    As long as you limit the amount of current that flows through the LED it will be fine.
    Hope this helps.

    by
    TheDoc
    +3.7
    | Jan 14, 2009 at 1:53am
    0
    Excellent tutorial. One thing I'd like to ask is that my Voltage Regulator gets fairly warm
    - not so warm as to burn me. Nevertheless, I'm working on a gadget (mostly just an RGB
    thingy) that I want to give my grandma. Anyway, I just want to figure out to keep the
    voltage regular from getting so hot. Can I just put an extra resistor between the power in
    and the regulator or something?
    Wicked tutorial at any rate. Thanks tons!
    by
    BeanForge
    +2
    | Jan 18, 2009 at 1:07am
    0
    5.1V and a lovely yellow light!! Thanks for a great, well thought out tutorial. On to
    microcontrollers...
    by
    MattTheGeek
    +2.4
    | Jan 30, 2009 at 2:24am
    0
    Thanks for the tutorial Nate.
    by
    David McFarland
    +2.4
    | Feb 17, 2009 at 11:30am
    0
    Great tutorial. Thanks.

    A couple of questions about the capacitors:


    1. why do you use two?
    2. what would happen if you switch their positions (put the 10uF where the 100uF is in
    your schematic, and vice versa).
    by
    Michelle
    +1
    | Mar 16, 2009 at 3:51pm
    0
    a bit lengthy but awesome tutorial
    by
    mouse-wiz
    +1.4
    | Mar 17, 2009 at 4:18am
    0
    I'm not sure I've ever been so excited to see an LED light up. Great write up =D
    by
    tr0nk
    +5.1
    | Apr 16, 2009 at 8:56pm
    1.2
    if you just need to get some pretty lights blinking (for an art project or something), and
    you find these tutorials overwhelming (even though they're awesome (!!)), you may want
    to start with an arduino programmer instead:
    Arduino USB Board
    http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=666
    http://www.arduino.cc/
    it is still recommended that you read through the tutorials (^_^)/
    by
    Bogatyr

    +1.2
    | May 18, 2009 at 6:04pm
    +0.15
    Thanks for a great tutorial. I've been wondering about these little switches used in
    breadboard power circuits -- they're all pretty wimpy in the current department, e.g., the
    one listed in the parts kit for this tutorial is rated at 200mA. Doesn't that mean that the
    entire current usage of the design hooked up to the supply circuit is limited to 200mA
    before the switch will weld open or otherwise destruct?
    All the beefier switches (1A+) that I've seen are huge and don't have pins suitable for
    direct/convenient use on a breadboard. Are there higher rated but BB-friendly (no
    soldering required) switches available? (Where?)
    thanks!
    by
    ncsuece
    +1.6
    | May 29, 2009 at 2:59pm
    +0.15
    Great tutorials! I really like to print out tutorials and follow along, esp. when they are
    long like this. Is there a better way to print these tutorials? The light gray text and gray
    columns on the side make it a real pain to print and read. Is there a PDF or printformatted version available?
    Thanks and keep up the great tutorials!
    by
    Manuel
    +1.8
    | Jun 9, 2009 at 12:31pm
    0.15
    Well, this kind of 5V source isn't the type I'd use. It wastes almost 50% of the power. This
    means that your 9V battery will last almost the half it should with a well made 5v source.
    There are some IC's from maxim that achieve high efficiencies. I've learned that in
    battery powered projects one should be as efficient as possible. Anyway, I think it's a well
    made tutorial and it's a good starting source for one's first projects. By the way, you are so
    right about the PTCs. I've seen several of my most sensitive IC's smoke to death in an

    instant and not because of short circuits. When using batteries one has to take into
    account the short circuit current it gives. It may be too small (CR2032 for example) or
    too high and may give trouble because there's no limit. PTCs are life savers.
    by
    spangaroo
    +1
    | Jul 10, 2009 at 12:07am
    0
    Great tutorial. I love learning more about power flows.
    I can see the resistor in the photo, but I don't see the 1N4001 diode. Am I missing
    something? I'm just trying to study all the components so I can set it up properly from the
    beginning.
    by
    KB8RWX
    +1
    | Jul 28, 2009 at 10:32am
    0
    Outstanding tutorial! Thanks.
    by
    SIGTERMer
    +2.7
    | Sep 13, 2009 at 5:40pm
    +0.15
    best tutorial so far. two downsides though:
    - gray isn't the best color for this kind of reading.
    - a printable version should be made availabe, if it hasn't been already.
    never the less, good job :)
    by
    NathanWong

    +1
    | Sep 27, 2009 at 7:51am
    0
    Thanks for taking the time to post such a great tutorial. I apologize if this is taken into
    account in some of your later tutorials (I intend to read them all!), but I just have one
    question: Some components, like the little LCD screens sold here, require 3.3V. How
    would this usually be provided? Would it be a parallel split at the end of the power circuit
    and another voltage regulator, or would it be a split before the voltage regulator and then
    have two circuits, one at 5V and one at 3.3V? I'm just trying to understand how to take
    advantage of having 9V (albeit unregulated) and needing both 5V and 3.3V. :) Thanks
    again!
    by
    thejam
    +1.4
    | Oct 5, 2009 at 8:00am
    0
    I just got the parts in the mail yesterday... What's funny to me is that I thought all the
    components were much bigger than they actually are. Probably because I've only been
    looking at pictures for the past 2 weeks.
    But I put the power supply together, and it worked! The LED lit up and didn't burn out.
    And even more than that, I can read the schematics now too! It all makes sense now that I
    can see it in my hands and on the schematic.
    Thanks for these tutorials!
    by
    Surya Sharma
    +1.2
    | Oct 15, 2009 at 5:02am
    0
    How are PTC's coded? I need one for 500mA / 5V (USB specifications) The ones I have
    Read C1122 and 0135. How many amps are these?
    by
    blalor

    +2.5
    | Nov 14, 2009 at 6:46am
    0
    There's a broken image; the image above the text "The cap has a minus '-' sign on the
    cover indicating that pin needs to go to GND." points to
    "http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/images/Caps-3.jpg", which is 404'ing.
    by
    hm
    +1
    | Nov 15, 2009 at 12:57am
    0
    This is a great tutorial! It was a lot of fun to read it cause there is nothing like this for
    computer programmers that know nothing of electronics!
    One point to mention is to Note that I BURNT MY LED because the GND pin of my
    voltage regulator was not connected to the shared ground! The regulator's output pin
    instead of +5V was giving out +9.8 V ! Just because of a missing GND connection.
    I suggest we make the GND connection of our regulator the final gate for all grounds
    connections in this circuit, so if that goes cut, our circuit would turn off instead of have
    dangerous voltage !
    by
    Andros1200
    +1.8
    | Nov 25, 2009 at 7:54pm
    +0.15
    You have a spelling error in your OR microcontroller code.
    if (A == 1 || B == 1)
    {
    C = 1;
    }
    else
    {
    C = 0;
    {

    If you would notice the very last bracket is an opening bracket not a closing bracket.
    Very nice tutorial!
    by
    Techn010g1ka11
    +1
    | Dec 6, 2009 at 12:52pm
    0
    Great tutorial. Thanks!
    by
    Ngesh
    +1
    | Dec 14, 2009 at 4:07am
    0
    The tuitorial is very informative. It has turned me into a Sparkfun fan!
    by
    warlord
    +1.5
    | Jan 2, 2010 at 1:04am
    0
    I keep being amazed at how helpful the sparkfun community is. Good job! Well
    explained!
    by
    Robban
    +1.8
    | Jan 5, 2010 at 4:40pm
    0
    Would love to hear some examples of where you feel PICs are inadequate for your
    purposes. Is it just very specialized tasks or just in general? I'm still just a newbie but I've
    played around with a few different PICs in several projects and I've yet to come across

    something they can't do (of course, these are _basic_ projects).


    by
    ebrandt
    +1.3
    | Jan 18, 2010 at 7:36am
    0
    This worked for me according to the instructions and I used ubuntu as the (parallel port)
    PC programmer. I had to make two small edits to the makefile to get it to work:
    1. remove the '-P lpt1' from the AVRDUDE_FLAGS (its not called lpt1 on ubuntu, and
    the default value is fine, so its OK to ommit that flag entirely.)
    2. I had to add '-E noreset' to the AVRDUDE_FLAGS. This deactivates the /reset line on
    the parallel port after programming. Without it, pin 1 stayed low after programming until
    I disconnected the programmer's reset line. With this flag I can leave the programmer
    connected.
    Just a few tips that anyone else using ubuntu might find useful. Happy blinking...
    by
    SeaJay
    +1.3
    | Feb 17, 2010 at 10:48am
    0
    Can the Pocket AVR Programmer be used instead of the AVR STK Parallel Port Dongle
    Programmer to support laptops without parallel ports? If not, are there any other fixes?
    Thanks in advance.
    by
    alexl
    +1.2
    | Mar 1, 2010 at 10:58am
    0
    I get a consistent 6.5ish volts out of the 10 or so L7805CVs I've tested this with.
    What's going wrong here? I'm using a standard 9v battery as my power source.

    by
    alexl
    +1.2
    | Mar 1, 2010 at 12:09pm
    0
    I figured it out: the batteries were dead in my multimeter.

    by
    blen2r
    +1.4
    | Apr 11, 2010 at 9:22am
    0
    Nice tutorial!
    I was wondering if that ripple we were filtering with the capacitors is present when the
    power is coming from a battery?
    by
    Klone38
    +1.1
    | Apr 30, 2010 at 8:22am
    0
    ARM microcontrolles actually stand for Advanced RISC Machines which were made by
    ARM holdings in the mid 1980 as a original substitute for the Motorola 68000 and
    National Semiconductor 32016 to be used in the Acorn Business Computer. the Motorola
    68000 and National Semiconductor 32016 wern't strong enough in the computer so ARM
    holdings decided to invent a new chip called the ARM. for more info you can wikipedia
    ARM architecture, ARM Holdings, or Acorn Computers.

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    Kapasitor
    Sabtu, 12 Desember 2009 19:55 Bayu Kuncoro Mukti
    Penilaian Pengguna:
    /0
    Jelek

    Bagus

    Nilai

    Kapasitor merupakan komponen elektronika yang berfungsi sebagai penyimpan muatan


    listrik selain itu kapasitor juga dapat digunakan sebagai penyaring frekuensi. Kapasitas
    kapasitor dalam kemampuannya menyimpan muatan listrik disebut Farad (F).
    Kapasitor memiliki berbagai macam bentuk dan ukuran, tergantung dari kapasitas,
    tegangan kerja, dan lain sebagainya. Kapasitor terbagi dalam dua kelompok yaitu
    kapasitor yang memiliki kapasitas yang tetap dan kapasitor yang memiliki kapasitas yang
    dapat diubah-ubah atau dengan kata lain kapasitor variabel.

    Kapasitor Nonpolar
    Kapasitor nonpolar merupakan jenis kapasitor yang memiliki kapasitas yang tetap,
    kapasitor ini memiliki kapasitas yang tidak terlalu besar. Untuk menggambarkan sebuah
    kapasitor dalam sebuah gambar rangkaian elektronika, kapasitor nonpolar digambarkan
    dengan simbol seperti dibawah ini.

    Kapasitor jenis ini biasanya terbuat dari bahan kertas, mica, keramik, mylar dan lain
    sebagainya. Jenis bahan pembuat kapasitor memiliki karakteristik yang berbeda-beda,
    sehingga memiliki kekurangan dan kelebihan masing-masing.

    Pada umumnya nilai kapasitas dari sebuah kapasitor nonpolar digambarkan dengan kode
    angka. Untuk lebih jelasnya dapat dilihat pada contoh berikut.

    Courtesy : www.wima.com

    Pada kode angka yang ditampilkan pada baris A untuk mengetahui berapa nilai kapasitasnya adalah dengan melihat pada bagian Capacitance/Voltage yang terletak pada bagian
    depan, disana tertulis 0.01/100 yang artinya kapasitor ini memiliki kapasitas 0,01nF dan
    tegangan maksimum-nya adalah 100V. Sedangkan untuk nilai toleransi-nya diperlihatkan
    pada bagian belakang, disana tertulis angka 10 yang artinya 10%.
    Pada kode angka yang ditampilkan pada baris B, kode angka dibubuhkan pada bagian
    atas kapasitor. Pada bagian tersebut tertulis 1,0J63 yang berarti kapasitor tersebut

    memiliki kapasitas sebesar 1nF, tegangan maksimum-nya 63V, sedangkan toleransi-nya


    ditandai oleh huruf J yang mana pada keterangan gambar memiliki nilai 5%. Kedua
    contoh kode diatas nilai kapasitas kapasitor-nya selalu dalam nF (nano Farad). Selain dua
    contoh diatas ada satu lagi contoh pengkodean pada kapasitor, seperti berikut.

    Pada gambar diatas kode yang tertera adalah 101, angka pertama merupakan digit
    pertama, angka kedua merupakan digit kedua dan angka ketiga merupakan faktor pengali
    dalam satuan pF (pico Farad). Jadi nilai kapasitor tersebut adalah 10 x 101 = 100pF.
    Contoh lain; Jika kode yang tertera adalah 223 maka nilai kapasitas-nya adalah 22 x 103 =
    22000pF = 22nF

    Kapasitor Polar atau Kapasitor Elektrolit


    Sesuai dengan namanya kapasitor ini memiliki polaritas pada kedua kakinya yaitu
    polaritas positif (+) dan polaritas negatif (-). Kapasitor ini termasuk dalam kelompok
    kapasitor yang memiliki nilai kapasitas yang tetap dan memiliki nilai kapasitas yang
    besar. Pada rangkaian elektronika kapasitor elektrolit disimbolkan seperti gambar berikut.

    Untuk C1 merupakan simbol gaya Eropa (Europe Syle) dan C2 adalah simbol gaya
    Amerika (American Style). Untuk pemberian nilai kapasitas, pada kapasitor elektrolit
    ditulis secara langsung lengkap dengan satuan dan tegangan maksimum, serta simbol
    polaritas-nya.

    Perhatian : Ledakan dapat terjadi jika pemasangan polaritas-nya terbalik atau tegangan
    yang diberikan pada kapasitor ini melebihi tegangan maksimum-nya.
    Kaki yang memiliki polaritas negatif berdekatan dengan tanda garis vertikal pada bodi
    kapasitor, atau kaki yang berpolaritas positif memiliki ukuran yang lebih panjang
    daripada kaki yang berpolaritas negatif. Seperti terlihat pada gambar diatas.

    Kapasitor Variabel
    Kapasitor variabel adalah kapasitor yang nilai kapasitas-nya dapat diubah-ubah sesuai
    keinginan. Oleh karena itu kapasitor ini di kelompokan ke dalam kapasitor yang memiliki
    nilai kapasitas yang tidak tetap.

    Simbol kapasitor variabel diperlihatkan seperti gambar sebelah kiri diatas. Seperti
    potensiometer kapasitor memiliki tuas untuk diputar atau biasa disebut rotor, dan bagian
    yang diam disebut stator. Kapasitor variabel dibuat dalam berbagai bentuk dan ukuran,
    nilai kapasitas-nya mulai dari beberapa pF hingga ratusan pF keatas. Kapasitor variabel
    biasa terdapat pada pesawat radio penerima, biasanya kapasitor variabel digunakan
    sebagai tuning untuk mencari frekuensi radio dari pemancar.

    Sumber Referensi

    Marking of WIMA Capacitors, www.wima.com.


    Understanding Electronic Components Capacitors, www.mikroe.com.
    Lessons In Electric Circuits, Volume I - DC, By Tony R. Kuphaldt, Fifth Edition.
    (http://openbookproject.net/electricCircuits)

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