Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
AT
SUBMITTED BY:
SHISHIR GUPTA
UDAY SHANKAR JHA
Bachelor of Fashion Technology
(Batch 2004 08)
Page 1
CERTIFICATE
Shishir Gupta
Uday Shankar Jha
had carried out Apparel Industry Internship at Ambattur Clothing Limited, Chennai
from 21st May 2007 to 13th July 2007.
Centre Coordinator
Page 2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The quest for knowledge provokes man to undertake many journeys in life. Through
his pursuit, there are various people who extend their invaluable support to make it a
success we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to those people whose help and
guidance made our apparel internship at ACL possible.
First of all we would like to thank Mr. Indevar Pandey (Director NIFT, Hyderabad)
and Dr. P Krishna Mohan (Registrar NIFT, Hyderabad) for giving us an opportunity
to have first hand experience of the Apparel Industry. We sincerely thank our course
co-ordinator Mr.Sanjay Shrivastava and Mr Rajasekhar (RIC,NIFT,Hyd) who took
pains in arranging for the internship and ensuring its success .
We are extremely thankful to Mr. S.V.Srinivan (HRM), Mr. Amaan, Mr. Bala and
Mr. Sairam for their cordial warmth and support that they have extended.
We are extend our sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Radha Krishnan (factory
manager), Mr. Shiva Kumar (Production Executive), Mr. Vasu Devan and Mr.Ajay
for their continuous, encouraging and patient support. Without their practical advice
and valuable experience and expertise, we would never have completed this report.
Page 3
PREFACE
Page 4
TABLE OF CONTENT
Sr. No.
TOPIC
Pg. No.
COMPANY PROFILE
1.1
INTRODUCTION
1.2
1.3
CAPACITY
1.5
LOCATION
1.4
PRODUCT RANGE
3-4
ORGANISATION CHART
2.1
CORE MANAGEMENT
2.2
PRODUCTION
3.1
ACL MISSION
3.2
WELFARE MEASURES
4.1
ORGANISATION HIERARCHY
4.2
10
4.2.1
11-23
24
5.1
PATTERN DEPARTMENT
23
5.1.1
ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY
24-25
Page 5
5.1.2
FUNCTIONS
25
5.2
CAD DEPARTMENT
25
5.2.1
FUNCTIONS
25
5.2.2
25-26
5.3
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
27
5.3.1
27
5.4
MARKER DEPARTMENT
27
5.4.1
FUNCTIONS
27
R & D DEPARTMNET
28
6.1
FUNCTIONS
28
6.2
28-29
MIS DEPARTMENT
30
7.1
30-31
7.2
31-32
33
8.1
OBJECTIVES OF CIED
33
8.2
FUNCTIONS OF CIED
33-34
EXPORT DEPARTMENT
35
9.1
PRE-SHIPMENT DOCUMENTATION
35
9.1.1
AEPC DOCUMENTATION
35
9.1.2
CUSTOM DOCUMENTATION
35-36
9.2
36
9.3
BUYER DOCUMENTATION
36
9.4
LETTER OF CREDIT
37
10
38
10.1
FABRIC STORE
38-39
10.1.1
39-41
10.2
TRIMS STORE
41-42
Page 6
11
WASHING UNIT
43
11.1
43-45
11.2
46
12
47
12.1
INTRODUCTION
47
12.2
47-48
12.3
49
13
LAYOUTS
50
13.1
50
13.2
51
13.3
52
13.4
52
14
STORES
54
14.1
FABRIC STORE
54
14.1.1
54-55
14.2
TRIM STORE
56
14.2.1
56-57
15
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
58-60
15.1
61-64
15.2
65
15.2.1
TABLES
65
15.2.2
MACHINERY
65
15.2.3
MISCELLANEOUS
65
15.3
66
15.3.1
66
15.3.2
67
15.3.3
68
16
SEWING DEPARTMENT
69
Page 7
16.1
LINE SECTION
70-72
16.2
KAJA SECTION
73
16.2.1
73-74
16.3
75-76
16.4
77
16.4.1
MACHINES
77
16.4.2
MISCELLANEOUS
77
17
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
78
17.1
78-81
17.2
82
17.2.1
MACHINES
82
17.2.2
MISCELLANEOUS
82
18
PACKAGING DEPATMENT
83
18.1
83-84
18.2
EQUIPMENT DETAILS
84
18.3
85
19
86
19.1
86-87
19.2
87
19.3
88
19.3.1
88
20
MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT
89
20.1
89
20.1.1
MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE
89
Page 8
20.1.2
ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE
89
20.2
BREAKDOWN MAINTAINENCE
90
20.2.1
MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE
90
20.2.2
ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE
90
20.3
SPARES INVENTORY
90
20.4
90
20.5
GENERAL MAINTAINENCE
91
20.6
WORKSHOP
91
21
PROJECT
92-97
22
CONCLUSION
98
APPENDIX
ANNXEURES
Page 9
1. COMPANY PROFILE
1.1 Introduction:
Ambattur Clothing Limited was incorporated in the year 1981 by Mr. Vijay
Mahtaney (VIJU), who is a first generation entrepreneur. The company was started
with a single factory with a work force of around 150 employees. In just 2 decades
the organization has become the fifth largest exporter of garments in India, with a
total workforce of over 15000 people employed in nine production facilities managed
by the company.
ACL has a very high reputation in the global market for its commitment to Quality
and delivering within the stipulated time equipped with the latest state of the art
technology. ACL specializes in the manufacture of Shirts, Trousers, Ladies wear,
Jackets etc. ACL clientele includes GAP, BANANA REPUBLIC, J JILL, J CREW,
OLD NAVY, ANN TAYLOR, ESPIRIT, LEVIS, DIESEL to name a few. COLOR
PLUS which has a very high reputation in the domestic market was a part of the
ACL group. CLOTHES ENCOUNTER is a retail division of ACL, which has got
its showrooms in 7 locations across India.
In a highly demanding industry like Apparel Exports, where competition from both
domestic and abroad is fierce, Human Resource and Infrastructure decides sustenance
and success of any key player. ACL has the positive edge in both the factors, which is
the prime and sole reason for its success.
Over the years, ACL has come to signify the best in the service and dependability for
many of its clients. This resulted as a great achievement for the organisation as last
year it has crossed an annual turn over of 140 Million US dollars. The organisation
has also been rated as Best client in India by IDBI bank.
Page 10
Head office
Establishment Year
Managing Director
Nature of Business
Export
Product Category
Product MiX
No. of Workers
15000
Annual Turnover
1.3 Capacity:
Location
Capacity (2005-06)
Capacity (2006-07)
8 Million pieces
9 Million Pieces.
ACL, Bahrain
3 Million Pieces.
3 Million Pieces.
Total
11 Million Pieces.
12 Million Pieces.
Page 11
1.4 Location:
Ambattur Group
Ambattur
Chennai, India
2000 Machines
Export Zone
Chennai, India
2 Production Facilities
500 Machines
ACIL
Bahrain
1 Production facility
600 Machines
Buyers
Woolen pants
Polyester / Blends
Page 12
Woolen Jackets
Product-mix
Others
5%
Tops
35%
Bottoms
60%
Page 13
Product Range
Mens wear
Womens wear
Shirts
Top
Trousers
Skirts
Jackets
Pants
Shorts
Dresses
Jackets
Shorts
2. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
2.1 Core Management:
Page 14
Production Units
Operational Functions
Support Functions
Ms.Ambika/ Mr.Bopanna
Mr.Behram K
Director - Production
Director
Merchandising/
VP - Merchandising
Mr.T Rajendran
Head Human
Resources
Administration
Mr.Darius K
Head R&D
CAD/CAM/Sampling
Quality Assurance
Mr.T Subramaniam
Finance & Accounts
MIS, Projects & IT
Mr.Vinayak T
Head - MMC
Mr.V Paranthaman
Head - Commercial
Page 15
2.2 Production:
Mr. Behram K
Director
Mr. Manohar K
Babu Genreral
Manager
Mr. .Ganapathy S
General Manager
Mr. Gopinath
General
Manager
Mr. Krishnan, FM
Mr. Sekar/Mr.
Mani, PM
SP 53
Mr. Anandraj, FM
Mr. Raja, PM
69 B
Mr .Dave, FM
Mr. Shaji, PM
B 12
Mr. Narasimhan,
FM
Mr. Balakrishna,
PM
B 13, B 15
MEPZ Division
Mr. Anand, FM
Mr. Prince, PM
( B 9)
Mr. Rajendran PM
(B 10)
Mr. Pawan /
Mr. Sudhakar,
FM
Mr. Srikanth, FM
Mr. Gopalan, PM
D 26
Mr.Radhakrishnan
, FM
Mr.Shankar, PM
SP 10/8
Page 16
ACLs human resource policy stems from the underlying belief that human resource
is one of its greatest assets. These assets appropriately motivated developed and
above all professionally managed will be source for the advancement of ACLs
corporate plans. Corporate personal policy strives to secure job satisfaction for all its
employees. It is ACLs vision is to be the MOST PREFERRED EMPLOYER in
garment industry and the means employee towards this end includes:
To align with the changing Business Demands and Goals and accordingly
institutionalize the key performance areas of the functional departments and
every individual.
Page 17
Medical facility: The organization has its medical centre located in SP-24,
which has an in house medical practitioner, with renowned specialist visiting
regularly. The service is totally subsidized and the employees have to pay a
very nominal amount for registration. The centre also provides medicines at
very nominal rates.
Crche facility: The organization also offers crche facility to the employees
children in the age group between 1-6 yrs of age. Certified and well trained
personnel in childcare manage this facility. The centre also provides periodic
health checkups for the children.
Library facility: The organization has a corporate tie-up with British council
library for taking care of the library needs of the employees and the
organization. Every employee is eligible to avail this service and borrow
books, periodicals, magazines, videos for a period of 2 weeks.
Page 18
Promotion or marketing the brand to the right audience at the right time.
BMC HEAD
(MANAGER)
MERCHANDIS
ER
(PRODUCT
DEVELOPME
NT)
Jr.
MERCHANDISER
(P D)
Sr.
MERCHANDIS
ER
(PRODUCTIO
N)
Sr.
MERCHANDIS
MERCHANDIS MERCHANDIS
ER
ER
ER
(PRODUCTIO
(SOURCING) (SOURCING)
N)
Jr.
Jr.
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
(TOPS)
(TOPS)
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
(P D)
(P D)
(BOTTOMS)
(BOTTOMS)
Page 19
Design
on
paper
Garment
with actual
fabric
Garment design
Proto
Printing &
development
Wash trials
Adoptio
n
Franchise
Critical fit
Production
Diagram showing the sampling stages from design to bulk production of the garment
Page 20
Page 21
Page 22
Buyer Tracker
GSS
BOM
Pattern
CIED
DD
S
A
M
Research &
Development
Pattern request
Sample request
Marker request
Wash request
(If applicable)
Costing
Sample
Basic procedure in Product development
Tracker: It is the excel chart from the buyer which mentions styles allocated to
different vendors. It is a comprehensive chart which is circulated among all SVD
offices (Supplier Vendor Development office), indicating entire status of adoption
sample for a particular season. It has all the details of the styles to be made with like
fabric, colour and the wash.
Garment specification sheet: It is made by the designers and sent to SVDs.
Designers provide details such as sewing, construction details, which are required to
make the garment diagrammatic introduction. It includes buyer block / pattern to be
followed for shapes and the measurement/ specifications of all the parts of a finished
garment. As soon as GSS is received, it is checked if any extra information is needed
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 23
or not. For any extra information the CSP (customer supplied product) will be
circulated to CIED (central industrial engineering department) and R&D (research n
development).
BOM (Bill of materials): It contains the details of shell fabric, labels, buttons,
interlinings, threads, prints, embroidery, wash specifications, packaging details etc.
Trims ordering should have following details:
Supplier name
Buyer Bloch: It is the soft copy of the pattern which is necessary for pattern making
on paper.
Pattern request: After GSS, BOM and Buyer Bloch, pattern request is issued for the
preparation of computerized or manual pattern. Communication with this department
is only through marker request form.
These are the following detail in the pattern request form:
Version of pattern
Size
Fabric type
R & D comments: When the pattern is ready, the pattern department will send
merchandising department comments. They will also give costing comment which
can be done on style without affecting design and style. These comments to be
enclosed with sample request.
Sample request: As soon as fabric and trims are required sample request is issued,
which contains following details:
Style no
Page 24
Labels detail
Button detail
Wash details
Special instructions
Store has to handover the fabric and trims required for a sample request
Pattern cutting: Here the cutting of fabric as per the pattern takes place
Lining issual
Washing(if applicable)
Finishing: After washing samples will be checked for quality, ironed and
packed
Page 25
Wash price
Marker request: After receiving the details about the fabric for a particular style
merchandising department has to determine the consumption of a fabric which is
given by CAD/CAM (Marker department).
The Marker request should contain the following details:
Style no.
Placement of fabric
Add information such as NAP up down fabric, one way or two way fabric
Based on above details, marker department will give the consumption (wastage is
added with this and called yield yardage) of the fabric for that particular style.
Matching standard:
Page 26
Fabric factor- Fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage (Varies from 5%10%)
Washing
Page 27
CPS
Fabric booking
Trims ordering
Proto
AD sample
No
Rev M
Yes
No
Approval
Approval
Yes
GPT sample
Yellow tag
Green tag
PCD
Trim card approval,
Thread approval,
shade band approval
Interlining report, FTP, GCR
PP meeting
Shipment sample
Wash sample
Final Inspection
Shipment
Page 28
Top sample
PRODUCTION
After adoption is over, buyer will start placing order through ACT (All channel
trackers). It is an excel format which has the details about confirmed styles, orders
quantity and delivery etc. after that final GSS and BOM is sent by the buyer. Then
the costing is done again and it is very tight to BOM. The costing is done in CPS
format which should be very tight & competitive. The Product Development
department has to hand over the samples to the concerned production merchants to
carry over.
Confirmed Program Sheet: After receiving the bulk GSS and BOM, the costing for
bulk is done and same is sent in a format called CPS to the buyer. This includes all
the details about product like fabric details with price, delivery details and mode and
Time & Action (T&A) plan of that style.
Quantity Indication: Once orders are confirmed, indication of the new order to
management, import & export department to plan for production & spacing is given.
For that we have to give details like style no, colour ways, SAM, order quantity per
colour way, delivery date, and mode of delivery.
Time & Action Plan: This is the plan through which merchandisers commit the exit
dates of various samples such as (Proto, Revised M, yellow tag, green tag,
advertisement sample & shipment sample) to buyer to meet the delivery required by
them. Buyer will give the delivery as IN-DC date. So, we have to work backward &
give the dates for sample exit. From the given details we can have the idea to give
dates & will change time to time for different cases:-
Page 29
PCD (package date):- 35 days from Ex-factory for a regular cut n sew
program and 45 days for an O/D (over dye) program.
Page 30
BOM & GSS Classification: As soon as the department receives the BOM and GSS,
it has to be studied carefully and asked about the classification within 48 hrs.
Shrinkage Sample: When washed fabric shrinks, it needs to be measured and
examined properly to maintain the specification that buyer wants for the wash
programs. Normally the shrinkage is checked in both warp and weft direction of the
fabric which will be added in the pattern so that it meets/hits the specifications
required by the buyer. It is very important to study the shrinkage on different roles of
the fabric as it will differ from roll to roll or takka to takka. Normally one shrinkage
study sample is made before doing any sample valid for specification/fit to avoid the
last time rejection due to measurement problems and this is totally for internal
purpose.
Proto Sample: After getting the classification for GSS & BOM merchandisers
arrange the samples to be sent to the buyer. First stage sample of production in base
size which is only meant for fit, specification and fabric. In this sample Trims are not
actual. Buyer will review the sample and give their approval or comments on fit.
Revised M Sample: If buyer is giving his comments to a proto, another sample in
the same base size incorporating all the comments is made and sent for approval
which is known as Revised M sample. Again buyer will review the sample and give
their approval which will be called as Revised M. Again buyer will review the
sample and give their approval or comments.
Wash Sample: In tailoring yardage, sample in base size (normally in 4 pieces) is
made with actual wash required for wash approval. The same will be sent to SVD,
Delhi and then approved and then forwarded to the buyer. The approved wash should
be maintained till the end of the order.
Garment Package Test (GPT) Sample: This is exclusively done for Banana
republic as the buyer has set some standards for their products in all the aspects.
Page 31
Banana republic has nominated some laboratories like ITS Mumbai and BY/MTL
Bangalore. So before starting production the garments to be tested and passed for its
qualities like fabric, trims and stitching quality from those laboratories. Here they
will test the sample for fabric weight, fabric content, flammability of fabric, tear
strength, tensile strength, pilling resistance, rain test, belt loop test, pocket attaching
strength, button attachment strength, snapping/unsnapping strength and various
colour fastness tests. To ensure the quality of the product the department has to make
and send the sample as per the labs requirement (4 pieces in dark colour way + 3
pieces in other colours -all in basic sizes).
Yellow Tag or Sealer Sample: Once proto/ Revised M is approved by buyer, the
department has to make a sample same as the Revised M with actual fabric and trims
to get it sealed by SVD Chennai. That is meant for all actual trims, specifications and
washes and to be followed by factory for production.
Green Tag Sample: There are times when all the trims required to make the yellow
tag sample are not received. In that case the department makes the yellow tag with
substitute trims and get SVD sample in any colour with actual trims and wash. This is
basically done to reduce the production delay.
Advertising Sample: In the meanwhile the department has to send the advertisement
samples (12 pieces) as instructed by the buyer for their catalogue/Marketing team. It
is for presentation purpose so it contains actual trims and fabric.
Size Set: All samples made till this stage After PCD (Production commencement
date- Date on which factory starts working on an order) are made in the base size
only. Therefore, before starting the production factory under goes pilot run that is
doing a trial production and making garments in all sizes. And one piece from each
size will be sent to SVD office to set the approval. The department should get the
approval for size set by pre-production meeting.
Page 32
Pre Production Meeting: After pilot run and before starting the production the PP
meeting is been conducted at SVD offices to discuss the critical points of the
particular order.
Top of Production (TOP) Sample: As soon as the production starts TOP samples in
base size (4 pieces) are sent to SVD offices and then to buyer to show them the
production product quality. If no comment is received within 48hrs then the
production will continue.
Shipment Sample: Samples from bulk are sent to SVD covering all sizes to
represent the shipment. It will contain the actual trims and packaging material and
exact wash.
Package File: Normally factory will be located away from headquarters so in turn to
avoid wastage of time in asking the classifications from merchants and to avoid
making mistakes. It will have to give all the details regarding the particular order for
which there is a checklist which were generated from the past experience. All the
details should be put in the package file.
Page 33
Work order
Wash approval/band
Page 34
Pressing standard
Matching standard and mini marker for stripes and plaid fabrics
Zipper grading
Internal BOM: It is a system generated BOM in BMC which has all the details
about the particular order like fabric detail, trim detail, order style, PO and the status
of the raw material etc. Shortly it has the complete up to date status of that particular
order. This is circulated to the factory, stores (SP-76) by PPC at time of production
for the follow up.
Trim Card: This is swatch card which has the swatch or samples of all fabric and
trims such as labels, buttons, zipper, thread, interlining; tape etc. a set of swatch card
has to be sent to the SVD offices before starting the production and get their
approval. Same will be sent to factories along with the package file for their
reference and to avoid confusion.
Thread Advisory Report: Some fabrics are sent to the thread supplier and the
quality of the thread which is to be used for that fabric is taken. Based on that PDD
have to match the thread for fabric and get approval from buyer. The approved
thread panel should be kept in the package file.
Shade Band: Since the yarns for bulk will be dyed more than once, the scope for
different shades of colour is more. As soon as the company receives the fabric, fabric
stores will segregate the shade, inform the quantity per shade, and then send the band
(collection of different shade swatches) to buyer and get the approval.
Interlining Report: To check the operating temperature and pressure of the
interlining to a particular fabric and to choose the correct interlining supplier and get
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 35
their suggestions/advice for the interlining which should be included in the package
file.
List of forms used at different stages:
Short Quantity: After package file is handed over to the factory, factory will start
pilot run, size set samples, TOP samples and shipment samples. At the time of
production or end of the production, factory will inform us the short quality to the
actual required quality, the same to be informed and get approved from buyer
beforehand.
Final Inspection: Once the goods are ready, QA from SVD will come and inspect
the goods. Once it is approved, the goods can be moved from the factory premises to
the buyer nominated forwarder and then the goods will be shipped to the buyer.
Shipment Advice: Once the goods are shipped, the details about the shipment like
invoice, delivery challan, Bill of shipping or Air fare & vessel / flight details etc to
the buyer is taken care by Export department. They are also taking care of payment
related activities.
Page 36
Technical head
The basic procedure followed in the department for a new order can be summarized
as follows:
Grading is done
These patterns are used in sampling and sent to the buyer for approval, and
also sent to factories for production
Pattern tracking system prevails with version numbers for every amendment.
5.1.2 Functions
Page 37
The senior pattern makers work on styles like jackets, outerwear, shirts,
trousers, dresses etc.
The junior pattern makers help out in adding shrinkage to existing patterns,
grading and amendments
The pattern assistants trim the tracing received from the buyer and make
templates
Consumption of lace, webbing tapes draw-cord etc are also given by this
department
Page 38
Cross checking
Checking
R
e
j
e
c
t
i
o
n
Page 39
Quality Audit
.
Stores- The stores in sampling keeps account of all the sampling fabric and
trims issued to them. They issue the same to cutting as per the sampling
requests.
Cutting section- This department is equipped with personnel who cut fabrics,
pocket interlinings.
Sewing section
Finishing/pressing/checking section
The senior marker will maintain the centralized record from sampling, pattern
and markers
Page 40
They will file all Patterns by buyer wise and the pattern request form also
The research and development department has different roles in case of different
buyers. However the basic functions of research & development department can be
summarized as
6.1 Function
Construction comment.
Specification comment.
Trims details.
After getting the GSS and BOM from buyer this will send to three department
Research and development department and CIED department and patter making
department.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 41
In research and development they will make costing for each and every
process.
They will check the capacity of machines and ability of the workers of factory
for a particular style.
R&D department
While production if the factory people have any doubt in the operation
R&D department will come and clear the doubt regarding the production and
productivity
While sending the sample to the buyer we have to attach the comment from
R&D department.
Page 42
7. MIS DEPARTMENT
The company uses centralised information system which is developed by the core IT
team of the company. The company has two tier integrated information system to
track the over all production with the management, planning, Sourcing and inventory
facilities. All the production and the support facilities are interconnected by optical
fibre on LAN network.
The information system can be divided in two parts i.e.
1. BMC (Business Management Centre ) and
2. Production Management System
Page 43
Page 44
Page 45
8.
Page 46
Industrial Engineering department acts as the bridge between the corporate office and
the production floor. It helps marketing people in understanding the complexity of
the product for accurate negotiation of manufacturing cost with buyer against the
production cost involved for the product based upon the factory efficiency.
After order confirmation the evaluation garment is reanalyzed for better &
economical methods to reduces the negotiated CMS in order to stay in
safe margin
Page 47
Buyer
Merchandizing
R&D
Planning
CIED
Factory
Sampling
HRD
MIS
Accounts/
Finance
Page 48
9. EXPORT DEPARTMENT
Export department receives delivery schedule from marketing department and
confirm the product category, quantity, delivery date and destination of orders with
the concerned merchandiser. The following documents are been prepared.
Commercial invoice
Shipping bill
Visa format
AEPC annexure
(b) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before
shipment
(c) Follow up with AEPC and receive following documents
(d) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before
shipment
9.1.2 Custom documentation
(a) Selection of C & F (Carriage & Freight) agent
(b) Coordinate with C & F agent and decide on shipping line
(c) Preparation of following documents and the same shall be handed over to the C &
F agent days before the planned shipment:
Customers invoice
GRI
Packing slip
Shopping bill
Page 49
Order copy
(d) Follow up with the C & F agent and ensures that the above documents are
submitted to the customs days before the shipment.
(e) Coordinate with C & F agent and receive the following document from him
GRI duplicate
Page 50
(e) Any other declaration required by buyer (e.g. Certificate of origin, single country
declaration)
(d) Ensuring the above document reach buyer in time and receiving feed back
(e) Providing any other information required by the buyer.
Page 51
Page 52
EQUIPMENT
Beasley meter
Pick glass
Page 53
Washing fastness
Perspiration fastness
Crocking
Pilling test
Tearing strength
Flammability
pH
Colour matching
Laundromat
Perspirometer
Crocking meter
Pilling tester
Tearing strength tester
Flame Burner
pH meter
Visual Matching
10.1.1 Fabric quality checking: The universally accepted 4-point inspection system
is used to check the fabrics. After receiving the fabric half a meter, full width fabric is
cut. Fabric swatch is cut from this piece for shade identification and to find roll wise
shrinkage. Roll no is marked on each swatch for identification. The fabric is scanned
for all the defects. All the detail of defects with the Non Conformance Report is made
and is issued to concerned merchandiser for the approval. A minimum 10% checking
is done of each received lot.
Checking process: the checking process constitute following steps which are as
follows:
Fabric rolls are checked both in the flat table as well as machine so that the
faults, which could not get detected in the flat table, can be detected on the
machine and vice-versa.
Fabrics are being checked for selvedge to selvedge and centre to selvedge
shade variation.
Defective
samples
are
sent
to
concerned
merchandiser
for
approval/disapproval.
Preparation of Non Conformance Report, which highlights all the defects and
characteristics of the fabric, is issued to the concerned merchandiser. He
decides whether to accept or to reject the fabric roll.
Fabrics are inspected and all defects are marked with stickers for
identification.
Page 54
Shade identification: The unit has a separate section for fabric shade
identification. Where fabrics are segregated into different shades. It is done by
experts based on their experience.
Width checking- Width of the roll is checked with the help of specimen cut
from the roll and record is maintained.
Note:
Before sending bulk fabric, supplier has to send a pilot yardage of same fabric
to us where the defects and quality of the fabric is analyzed. If this pilot
yardage is meeting the buyers standard, only then bulk order is given to the
supplier, otherwise report is sent to concern merchandiser to sort out the issue.
defects
Page 55
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
weaving defect
broken warp
oil stains
slubs
warp line
crease marks
stopping marks
knots
holes
broken weft
weft line
Otherwise checks 5%. In this 5%, if rejection is less than 2%, forward it to
issue department.
Again if checking fails it Checks 10%. In this if rejection is more than 2%,
NCR (Non Conformance Report) is made and sent to concerned merchant.
Note:
For rejected trims, debit note is made and sent to accounts department
mentioning P.O no, quantity, rate, amount.
Thread consumption: Department also finds out the thread consumption. After
finding out thread consumption it is confirmed with the concerned factory.
Page 56
Factory finds out the consumption at its side. Comparison of both is done and
approval is given to the minimum.
Page 57
The Company has recognized the importance of having state of the art wet processing
facility to backup its world class production facility. To achieve this goal, the
company has brought experts from other countries to develop washes and to manage
the laundry. This is also complemented with Capital investment in buying world class
washing equipments.
The company has centralized washing unit to fulfil its all washing and wet processing
needs, located at D-16, Industrial Estate, Ambattur.
In general the quality of the laundry is related to many factors such as:
The follow up and proper execution of the laundry procedure with well
trained workers and staff, the quality of finished goods get enhanced.
11.1 Work flow in the washing unit for the bulk production
Goods Reception : All the goods after receiving are 100% checked for quality and
entered to the laundry production control systems into the daily washing status
sheet using this system we are able to know and control how many garments are
received, washed, issued and in progress for wet process as well as dry process.
Unwashed Quality Audit: Goods received into laundry for wash are checked before
wash for any quality issue such as fabric defects, sewing quality, uncut sewing thread
etc. 100% check need to be done for 1 st bulk including 32 pieces, and 10% for normal
production. Only when the goods are perfect it will be cleared for wash. If any
defects are found, it will be registered into the Pre-wash quality check reports
sheets, and the defective garments are kept aside. The Pre-wash audit form is then
signed by the quality assurance manager from the laundry and forwarded to
manufacturing manager and QC manager along with the defective goods for their
inspection. We wait for the comment from the sewing plant whether we can proceed
with wash or return the goods for the repair work. After getting approval from the
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 58
manufacturing plant, the pre-wash quality check report form get signed by FM and
QM and returned back to laundry than the goods are proceed for wash.
First bulk wash: No garment is allowed for washing without the approved wash
standards and the shade bands for the same style, after receiving all this, the wash
recipe is taken from the technical laundry department. The production and quality
control work sheet and recipe worksheet is created by the laundry systems in charge,
attached to the goods and handed over to the washing supervisor for the wash. Only
for the first bulk wash, the work sheet printed is green in colour for auditors
identification. On the first bulk, it is 100% quality check up for shade, hand, feel etc.
Bulk wash: Few garments representing the shade range from the first bulk will be
forwarded to the merchandiser for approval before laundry proceeds into further
wash. For any other issue not related to washing, they will inform the factory
accordingly for future care.
Merchandiser will sign the first bulk wash garment and will be accordingly to the
laundry for containing the bulk wash. The final production and quality control
worksheet, repair worksheet and chemical registration slip will be created into
systems for the balance bulk production.
Post wash quality: After drying, the goods are subjected to quality check at the
laundry by QC team. The goods are checked for the shade, hand feel, defects etc. the
% of the total garments check is starting from 20% for the basic wash ( rinse wash,
soft wash) up 100% for stone wash, dyeing and denim. The goods, which are not
satisfying the shade, hand feel, are sent back for re-wash, the number of the rewash
garment is mentioned in the final QC report as correctable pieces, for the goods
satisfying the approved standard and shade are packed and sent to manufacturing
plant.
After that the travelling work sheet will be finalized and saved into laundry quality
systems computer.
Rinses and softener wash 20% check
Enzyme wash, enzyme stone, denim and dye 100% check
Page 59
In general for the major defect as shade, holes, streaks etc. They stop washing until
the problem get resolved by looking again through the washing recipe and doing
trails in sampling before proceeding for bulk.
Quality Department: The data from travelling work sheets are saved into the
systems that automatically generate the final QC report for daily production.
The laundry QC supervisor will analyze the final quality report of each order and
update the laundry on the quality issue and get it signed from QC manager and FM
for further action if it needs to be taken.
This final report allowed the production people to control better what they are
producing and stop the problem in the earlier stage. By this method the % of reject
due to washing are minimized.
Chemical Stocks: By using the chemical requisition slip, the quantity of all
chemicals has been saved through laundry systems, and automatically they will be
able to check and control their chemicals stocks daily.
List of washes given in the unit:
S.No.
WASH
S.No.
WASH
1
Enzyme wash
22
Soda wash
2
Enzyme wash-mild
23
Soap wash
3
Enzyme wash-heavy
24
Water wash
4
Bio wash
25
Crinkle wash
5
Band wash
26
Distress wash
6
Detergent wash
27
Colour fixing wash
7
Stone wash
28
Mud wash
8
Bio polish
29
Paper effect wash
9
Anti pilling bio wash
30
Caustic wash
10
Softner wash
31
Leather finishing wash
11
Denim wash
32
Rubber finishing wash
12
Denimax wash
33
Desize wash
13
Dip wash
34
Starch wash
14
Silicon wash
35
Ice wash
15
Ball wash
36
Feather finish wash
16
Silicon ball wash
37
Silky wash
17
Rubber ball wash
38
Carbonised enzyme wash
18
Optical brightness wash
39
Zinc vodka wash
19
Vintage wash
40
Acid wash
AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
20INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP
Tea stain
wash
41
Stone enzyme washPage 60
21
Bleach wash
M/C Capacity
Machine Type
sample Wash
Ramson
Ramson
Ramson
Ramson
Tonello
M/C Capacity
Machine Type
Dryer Capacity
Ramson
100 kg
400 kg
200 kg
150 kg
35 kg
20 kg
5 kg
3 kg
17 kg
Wash Capacity of
Goods
120 kg
60 kg
60 kg
No of M/C
Wash Capacity of
Goods
15 kg
10 kg
3 kg
2 kg
10 kg
No of M/C
Wash Capacity of
Goods
60 kg
No of Dryer
4
2
4
4
3
2
1
1
24
Note:
In general garments are dried between 55 to 60 degree centigrade and for the
delicate fabric the temperature followed would be 50 degree centigrade.
Page 61
AREA ( SQ FT )
CUTTING
7268.19
PRODUCTION
11698.66
FINISHING
5550.83
748.52
GENERATOR ROOM
769.97
LADIES TOILET
734.37
GENTS TOILET
174.94
CANTEEN
2152.95
29098.43
7.5
Page 62
DEPARMENT
ADMINISTRATION
CHECKING
CUTTING
IRONING
KAJA BUTTON
MAINTENANCE
PACKING
PRODUCTION
SEWING
STAIN - REMOVING
STORES
TRIMMING
TOTAL
76
298
STAFF
MEN
4
1
3
0
0
5
4
1
9
0
2
0
WOMEN
2
0
2
0
1
0
0
0
1
0
0
0
29
409
11
53
13
13
6
6
20
150
CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24
Committees
No. OF MEMBERS
FREQUENCY OF MEETING
GRIEVANCE COMMITTEE
13
BI-MONTHLY
CANTEEN COMMITTEE
15
BI-MONTHLY
SAFETY COMMITTEE
14
BI-MONTHLY
Page 63
Mr. Mohan K
Babu
General
Manager
Mr.
Radhakrishnan
Factory
Manager
Mr. Christopher
Franklin
Quality
Manager
Mr. Shankar
Production
Manager
Mr. Wilson
Store
Incharge
Mr. Mohan
Cutting
Incharge
Sewing Line
Incharge
(3)
Supervisor
( 4 per line)
Mr.
Ramakrshna
Finishing
Incharge
Mr. Babu
Ironing
Incharge
Mr. Miller
Packaging
Incharge
Mr. Sigamani
Button and
Button hole
Mr.
Vasudevan
Defect
Analyser
Quality
Controller /
Checkers
(5)
Page 64
13. LAYOUTS
13.1 Cutting Department Layout:
Page 65
Page 66
Page 67
Page 68
14. STORES
The unit has in-house store for the fabric and trims issued from the MMC which
stores the goods for the production period. The store is divided into two sections:
1.
Fabric store
2. Trims store
Fabric storage
Buyer no:
Page 69
Style no:
Colour:
Width:
Date
Factory
Delivery
Length(in
challan no.
metres)
Grand Total
Total no of
Rolls
Fabric storage: The fabrics received are first shade wise segregated and placed on
the storage racks. However, final segregation is done according to the shade as well
as the shrinkage percentage. The fabric rolls contains specification stickers which
contains following information:
BARCODE
PO No.( purchase order number)
Code
Bale/DC
Po Width
Weight
Supplier code No.
Fabric Description
Count
Takka No.
The shade and shrinkage family name is manually written over each roll after
receiving the shrinkage report from MMC.
Fabric issue to the cutting Department: Now according to the time and action plan
(in which cutting date is mentioned), the fabric is issued to the cutting department
and log book is maintained in the cutting department which contains following
information:
Style No. :
Buyer Name :
Fabric Colour :
Fabric :
Garment Description:
Order quantity :
Fit of the Garment:
Fusing to be used :
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
FABRIC
SAMPLE
Page 70
Trims storage
D. C. No
Style No
Items
Nos.
Trims storage: According to the type and quantity trims and accessories are kept in
the designated racks placed in the store. The list of different types of trims and
accessories are given below:
Labels:
Main label (contains brand name and trademark)
Tab label (contains detail about company)
Care content label (contains content of the fabric)
Size label (size of the garment)
Wash care label (wash care instructions)
Vendor ID label (contains name of the vendor)
Buttons
Page 71
Zippers
Locker loop
BTW tape
Trims release: A trim card is made for each and every order containing all the
qualitative and quantitative trims specifications needed for that order. Exact
samples for each item are also attached on the card for identification. It also
includes the information about the buyer, style, ACL style, GMT (garment),
Quantity. The accessories are matched with the samples and then issued to the
sewing department.
Page 72
Marker length
Marker width
Buyer name
Version
Sizes
Marker efficiency
According to the marker plan spreading is planned and a Lay Slip is maintained in
the following format:
Format no
Version
Lot no
Book no
Style no
Name of buyer
Counted by
Name of cutter
QC name & checked by
H.O.D
Item code
Fabric width
Lay length
Colour
No of layers
Sizes
Lay starting time
Lay finishing time
Shade
Lay starting and lay finishing time helps the supervisor in monitoring the hourly
target for the spreading:
Target
40 plies/hr (approx.)
Spreader also maintains the spreading particulars in Lay Info slip as following:
Date
Cut no -
18/5/07
Lay length
5.23 mts
Lay width
51
Page 73
XS, S, M, L
Quantity
61
Shade Takka no
A
No of plies
11
Roll segregation
Roll opening
Fabric inspection
Fabric relaxation
Page 74
Spreading
Lay relaxation
Cutting
Ticketing and
bundling of cut parts
Fusing
Page 75
Approved bundle
Cutting storage
Disapproved bundle
Page 76
Cutting storage
Page 77
out and the fabric is being kept in relaxed / loose form on fabric relaxation trolley for
2-5 hours.
Spreading and relaxation: In this process, first a brown paper is spread over the
table which is fixed on the table by the cellotape. After that the fabric is laid flat over
the table so that the uniformity in the fabric can be obtained while cutting. For this
purpose, generally wooden scales are used to remove the wrinkles and crimps. Lay
weights (iron blocks) are also used for keeping the correct fabric alignment. The
spreading table used are made up of wooden base with plywood surface mounted on
the
steel
stand.
The
dimensions
of
the
table
are
11m*1.5m*1m
(length*breadth*height).The ply cutting or the lay cutting for the spreading purpose
is done by the rotary cutter. Generally 75-125 lays are put in one spread and average
height of the lay is 3.75 inches. The lays are kept for the period of 5-12 hours for the
proper relaxation. However, the relaxation time depends on the nature of the fabric,
temperature and relative humidity at the work. In spreading, the lay length and fabric
consumption calculation are done on the basis of CAD marker.
Cutting: The CAD marker needed for the cutting comes from the E2 / E3 units, are
actually size set samples markers. These markers are further manually modified by
the cutting master as per the modification needed for the bulk production. Now, are
placed over the spreaded lay and cutting is carried out with the help of straight knife.
Band knifes are also used for cutting smaller and complicated parts while Drill
markers are used for making holes for the marking purposes.
Fusing: The fabric cut parts which require fusing before the stitching are sent to the
fusing section. It has two fusing machines. The temperature of fusing machine is set
according to
Page 78
The section also maintains the Daily Fusing and Bonding Strength Report in the
following format:
Buyer style-BR-514519
Temp
Sample
F Noon
A Noon
Pressure
Date-31/05/07
Time
Bonding strength
Sec
11
11
GMS
800
800
C
Kg/sq cm
125
1.5
125
1.5
Factory ACL-SP 10/8
Length in inches
Before
4
4
After
4
4
Width in inches
Change
Before
3
3
Interlining-P*313
F Noon Sample
After
3
3
A Noon Sample
The fusing equipment must provide control over three major factors as instructed by
R&D Department:
Time
Temperature
Pressure
Machine setting is also checked after every two hours and recorded in Fusing Report:
Date
31/05/07
8:30
125C
10:30
125C
12:30
125C
3:00
125C
5:00
125C
Signature
Any other
Signature
CE
Setting
FN
AN
No
bubbling
F N AN
No colour
change
FN
AN
Bonding
strength
FN
AN
FN
AN
31/05/0
7
Page 79
Change
-
Ticketing and Bundling: After that the cut parts are allotted with ticket number and
stickers are used for this purpose, which consist whole description about the part and
now the bundling is done. The cut parts of similar types are put in one bundle.
However, the number of cut pieces in a bundle varies with the production runs and
the sizes. The stickering operators are issued with the list of numbers, which has to be
stuck on the cut parts. Each operator has the following info to stick the tickets issued
by the department. Example:
Lot no
Destination
Style No.
Colour
Lilly rose
Size
XS
S
M
L
Version
Cut no
Lay length
Takka no
4962(D)83, 3930(E)85
4962(D)309, 3930(E)311
4962(D)227, 3930(E)229
4962(D)83, 3930(E)85
Date
Time
Page No.
Bundle no
7192450
7192454
7192458
7192462
Pcs
20
20
20
20
FPLY
83
309
227
83
TPLY
102
328
246
102
Operators adjust their ticketing gun according to the numbers issued to them and
three different stickers are put on the every cut piece. The placement of label/sticker
on the cut pieces is pre decided in the pre production meeting.
Sticker Details:
324702
ZB500267 * 3/2/
USA/ SHADOW
Style number
Destination / Colour
8208344 31/30
[71-73] 3
5 - Fly
ZBJO33742 (B)
Parts name
Page 80
Cut part inspection: The cut parts are inspected as per the damages and the ticket
number and if any discrepancies are found they are sent to bit end storage section
other wise bundle is approved and sent to the sewing department by the trolleys. For
confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is done as well as from each cut
block top, middle and bottom panel are matched against original pattern as well as
each other for the exact and even measurements.
Bit end storage: Here end bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept and if
any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again parts are
cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same ticket number
is allotted to that particular cut piece and sent to the sewing departments.
Page 81
No.
5
2
2
1
1
1
No. of worker/table
2
4
3
5
3
7
15.2.2 Machinery:
Machine
Straight knife
Band knife
Drill marker
Rotary cutter
Fusing machine
Rod Clamp
Stickering machine
No.
2
2
2
1
1
2
2
1
5
Operators/machine
1
1
1
1
3
3
2
2
1
Make/ Model
Eastman machine Co.
Blue Streak BS2
KM bk-700
Eastman machine Co. CD3
Ngai Shing NS-71
Hashima
Kannegiesser
Local
BlitzTextile Mod.2234
No.
5
10
5
10
10
10
Make
Local
Local
Orient/Usha
Elite
Gec Alsthom
Local
15.2.3 Miscellaneous:
Items
Racks
Trolleys
Fans/Table
Tube light/Table
Exhaust fan
Lay weights
Page 82
WHAT
Narrow
goods
WHY
To ensure that all
the plies extend
beyond the
marker line.
count
Leaning
edge
Marker
Marker
placement
To ensure correct
quality of the lay
as well as to
ensure that plies
extend to the
table marking
line at both
sides/ends.
To ensure that
one edge of the
lay is square to
the table.
To make sure that
marker is not
over torn, over
lapped, creased,
damaged or
altered
To ensure that all
cut part are
complete
Tension
To ensure that
spread is not
slack or tight,
very much
important for
knits and stretch
fabrics.
HOW
Visual
inspection by
checking far
edge of the lay
with marker line
By counting
plies at both
ends of the lay.
WHO
Quality
controller
WHEN
At random during
laying and after
the completion of
lay before cut.
Quality
controller
After spread is
finished and
before the cut.
Visual
inspection
Quality
controller
Visual
inspection and
check against
original patterns
Quality
controller/
supervisor
At random during
the laying and
after completion
of lay before cut.
After marker is
put on lay and
before cut.
Marker should
be placed
parallel to
selvedge of the
lay i.e. visual
inspection
Visual
inspection
Quality
controller/
Cutter
After marker is
put on lay and
before cut
Quality
controller/
spreader
At random during
laying
Page 83
15.3.2
Standard
operation
procedures
for
cutting
supervisor:
S.No.
1
WHAT
Check actual
temperature
Check actual
time
Visual check
Bond
strength test
Durability
wash
Mocks of
fusing parts
(interlining
placement)
Fusing
specification
WHY
To check against
RnD
specification for
conformity
To check against
RnD
specification for
conformity
To ensure no
discolouration,
no adhesive, no
bubbling coming
out shell
To ensure
durability of
bonding
To check bond
strength and
variation in
shrinkage
As a ready
reference for parts
that are to be
fused
As a ready
reference
HOW
Thermal stripe/
digital meter
WHO
Quality
controller
WHEN
Once in 2
hours
Stop Watch
Quality
controller
Morning and
evening
Visual
Quality
controller
Once in 2
hours
Spring balance/
manual
Quality
controller
Morning and
Afternoon as
per the
buyers
specification
Once in a day
Quality
controller
Visual display
Cutting
supervisor
During entire
run of the
style
By interlining test
report or approved
fusing specification
Cutting
supervisor
During entire
run of the
style
Page 84
15.3.3
Standard
operation
procedures
for
fusing
HOW
Stripe/
digital meter
WHO
Mechanic
/ Quality
controller
WHEN
Morning
and after
noon
Stop Watch
Mechanic
/ Quality
controller
Morning
and after
noon
Control
knobs
Mechanic
/ Quality
controller
Morning
and after
noon
As per the
manufacture
rs manual
guidelines
mechanic
As
stipulated
by the
manufactur
er
mechanic:
S.No.
1
WHAT
Temperature
Time
Pressure
Machine
cleaning
WHY
To set the fusing
machine as per the
RnD or approved
specification
To set the fusing
machine as per the
RnD or approved
specification
To set the fusing
machine as per the
RnD or approved
specification
Daily maintenance
Page 85
Style:
Date:
Country:
Time:
S. no.
1.
2.
Cut no
3
3
Prepared by
Marker
3
4
Colour Size
Black M
Black L
Issued by
From bundle
7192827
7192837
To bundle
7192836
7192846
Received by
F Ply
277
180
T Ply
476
379
Cutting supervisor
After receiving the cut parts they are again counted by the receiver to counter check. The
setting and process flow of the sewing department changes with every order. Before the
execution of the order, the operation breakdown of the garment is done and operation
bulletin is made. The operation bulletin acts as the tool for the line balancing and helps in
production target achievement. According to this breakdown the sewing line is set so that
the through put time can be reduced for the smooth production flow. The production
bulletin prepared for the sewing comes from the CIED department.
All sewing operators are provided with a production slips (time sheet) in which bundle
stickers are stuck as soon as bundle operation gets completed. The work slips are counted
after every two hours to prepare the manual production report as well as the barcode are
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 86
scanned and hourly production status is fed into the production management system. It
helps to check the efficiency of each operator at regular intervals. At the end of the day
total production report is made.
There are five checkpoints in each line to check the quality. If any problem occurs the
production manager and executives gets into immediate action and rectification is done for
producing any quality garment.
Page 87
4.BACK FLAP
Make Flap
Turn Flap (Rectangular)
Topstitch Flap
Ready Cut Flap
Attach Tab to Flap
5.FRONT
Serge Front Rise
Attach And Topstitch Fly
Attach Zipper To Fly
Attach Flybox To Zipper
Topstitch Front With Flybox And Zipper
Attach Facing Scoop Pocket to Front
Turn And Press Front Pocket
Topstitch Front Pocket Mouth
Attach Pocket To fornt
Stay Stitch Front Pocket At Side And Waist
Sew J-Stitch
Sew Front Rise
6.BACK
Mark Back For Welt Pocket And Dart
Sew Darts
Press Back Dart
Topstitch Dart All round
Serge Pocket Facing
Make Welt Pocket
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 88
Turn Welt
Press Welt
Tack Welt
Topstitch Down Welt
Topstitch Top Welt
Serge Welt Pocket Bag
Pattern Stitch On Welt Pocket Bag
Attach Back Pocket Flap To Back
Topstitch Back Pocket Flap
7.SUB ASSEMBLY
Match Front With Back
Sew Side Seam
Topstitch Side Seam
Sew Inseam
Sew Back Rise
Topstitch Back Rise
Topstitch Back Rise
Attach Label at Side
8.ASSEMBLY
Mark Body For Loops & Waistband
Match Waistband With Body
Attach Waistband To Body
Close Waistband Face
Topstitch Waistband All around
Hem Bottom
9.FINISHING
Attach Button to Waistband
Keyhole Waistband
Attach Button To Back
Keyhole Flap
Bartack Crotch & Fly
Bartack Front Pocket
Bartack Welt Pocket
Attach Snap To Waistband (Female)
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 89
Kaja Making
Button Marking
Button attach
Sticker removing
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 90
templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked
position by the specialised machine.
Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine
buttons are attached at the marked positions.
Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank
wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface.
Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where
proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found
they are again sent back for correction.
Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are
further sent to the washing or the finishing department.
Page 91
Page 92
Page 93
No.
18
2
120
20
4
3
15
2
18
10
2
40
4
2
7
2
2
3
1
1
Make
JUKI
Brother
JUKI
Brother
JUKI
JUKI
JUKI
Beiser
JUKI
JUKI
Brother
JUKI
Ngai Shing
JUKI
Brother
Brother
JUKI
JUKI
Brother
Ascolite
16.4.2 Miscellaneous:
Items
Checking tables
No.
18
Make
Local
Page 94
Hangers
Fans
Tube light
Exhaust fan
Chairs
9
90
312
7
270
Local
Orient/Usha
Elite
Gec Alsthom
Local
Draw cord
Trimming
Inside Checking
Stitching repair
Stain removal
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 95
Thread suckering
Bulk ironing
Tag attaching
Belt tieing
Page 96
Measurement Checking
Tag attaching
Belt tieing
Page 97
Draw Cord: This step is for this style only as per the design requirement.
Trimming: After this the garments are sent to the trimming table, where extra thread is
trimmed from the garment and a trimming report is also maintained as follows:
S. No
Name of
Operator
9:15 10:15
11:15
...
5:00
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
22
22
22
10
22
20
13.
22
242
10
235
477
20
240
2190
Total
Grand total
Inside Checking: After receiving the garments, inside checking is done to check out
defects like broken stitches, skip stitches and uncut threads etc. After checking the
garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment, inspected by her. Each sticker
has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out which garment is being
inspected by which checker. A set format is given to each checker to maintain the record
of defects at various areas like A/H, cuffs etc. It also helps to find out the total garments
inspected by the checker and percentage defectives found.
Stitch Repairing: In case of any sewing defect the respective garments are sent back to
sewing line to repair it immediately. However, finishing department has its own tailors to
repair the minor faults. To rectify defects, checker puts the clip at the defective garments
after tying the defective area with the help of thread. Each clip has a particular no assigned
to each checker. After repairing the garments are sent back to the respective checker to
recheck
Stain Removing: As each garment suffers multiple handling right from receiving the
fabric to the finishing, it leads to stain marks on the garments. So, the garments are sent to
stain removal section to remove the stains from the garments. These stains are removed by
stain removal guns in which white petrol is used to remove the stains. Sometime they also
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
Page 98
use stain removing sprays. Here, also each operator sticks the particular sticker assigned to
her to track out the garment handled by her.
Thread suckering: Now the garments are exposed to the thread sucker machine where
the left over cut threads are sucked from the garments.
Bulk ironing: The department has fourteen pressing work stations, where the garments
are passed for the pressing.
2nd checking: Now the garments are sent to 2nd checking to find out fabric defects, shade
variation, shape distortion (bottom shape, cuff and placket shape etc.), minor stitching
defects etc. After checking the garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment,
inspected by her. Each sticker has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out
which garment is being inspected by which checker.
At the 1st checking stage, major concern is stitching defects and extra threads only.
Draw cord tacking: This step is also style specific as per the design of this garment only.
Measurement Checking: The garments are now sent to the measurement checking table
where all critical measurements are taken and matched according to the specifications and
tolerance.
Security Label attaching: This is also a buyer specified attachment as in this style RFID
security labels are attached.
Tag attaching: Here price tags and wash care labels along with the extra buttons are
attached with the garment.
Final Stain removing: Again stain removing is done by the sprayer before final packing.
Belt tieing: This is also specific to this style only as per the buyer specification.
Final folding and packing: It is the final step in which garment is folded as per the
packing instructions and packed in the poly bags.
Page 99
All garments are passed to needle detection machine to meet the safety compliance
of the buyer before the packing. But it is done for a few buyers only.
No.
1
14
1
Operators/machine
2
1
1
Make/ Model
HASIMA/ HN740 G
Ramsons Veil
Ramsons
17.2.2 Miscellaneous:
Items
Checking tables
Storage bin
Fans
Tube light
No.
55
3
48
143
Make
Local
Ramsons
Orient/Usha
Elite
Page 100
Shade checking
Packet concealing
Barcode scanning
Size sorting
Packing in carton
Sent to store
Page 101
No.
3
1
1
6
12
6
5
Model/Make
Local
ARGOX
F6AP/ ATCO
Usha
Philips
Usha
Local
Page 102
#69
#208993
#7440
#6P
#971875
B
SHADE
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
COLOUR
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SIZE
OOP
OP
2P
4P
6P
8P
10P
12P
14P
ACT PCS
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
SCAN PCS
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
972130
59 - MISSY
203860
1295
A
10 pcs.
81230815
37*30*18 cms
4.450 Kgs.
3.700 Kgs.
OOP/1 OP/2 2P/3 4P/2 6P/2 8P/2 10P/2 12P/1
14P/1 TTL/14
Page 103
SL. NO
Version
Style No
Fabric
Cut No
Lay Length
No. Piles
Table Marking
Marker Placing
Ends
Marrow Goods
Page 104
Leaning
Tension
Counts
Marker
Total Defects
Sign QC
Cutting Super
19.2 List of the defects checked during the inline and end line checking,
and the quality audits:
fabric defects
colour shading
broken stitches
skip stitches
uneven SPI
loose stitches
insecure button/snap
high low
raw edge
needle holes
unwanted pleats
missing operation
incorrect labels
stains/dirt marks
stickers
uncut thread
out tolerance
Page 105
No of
samples
7
Rejection level
500
2 minor/ 1 major
defect
2 minor/ 1 major
defect
2 minor/ 1 major
defect
NOTE:
After external audit is done buyer representative is invited for the audit. The AQL
depends on the buyer. E.g. the AQL for Levis is 2.5 whereas for J-JILL it is zero
(0).
Page 106
Oil leakage
SPI
Seam quality
Thread path
One electrician takes care of all the sewing floor and checks all the live lines for
insulation.
Weekly inspection and cleaning of all the electrical lines of any foreign materials
Page 107
Maintains a breakdown log book where the machine down time is noted.
Line mechanic also maintenance a log book for broken and blunt needles.
Broken needle is affixed completely ( including the broken part ) in the prescribed
format
If the broken part cannot be traced, the garment around that particular area will be
passed through needle detector
Blunt and bent needles are collected in a sealed box and audited by the concerned
buyer the QC every so often.
Needle detector is calibrated twice a day with the gauges and readings are
Page 108
documented.
The machines, attachments and folders requirement list for new style is given by
the production manager at pre production meeting
The requirement list is reconciled with the stores stock and items that are not
available indented giving the full specification of the purchase department
All the materials that are received from supplier are checked 100% for quality and
specification by the store keeper. The material stock is updated in the spares
registers with all the relevant details.
Cleaning of oil ( taking the foreign materials from the oil reservoir)
All machines are provided with eye guard and finger guard
The band knife and cloth cutting machines operators are given metal gloves to
avoid accidents
20.6 Workshop
Workshop involves the repair and fabrication of the damaged machine and machine parts.
Folders and attachments are as per the requirements of sewing line. Some of the
attachments fabricated here are also sent to other units of the company.
Page 109
21. PROJECT
AIM: Cutting and Sewing Department Process Analysis for increasing productivity in the
SP 10/8 unit.
DURATION: 7 days
METHODOLOGY APPLIED: Analysis of test reports and working procedures to find
out the deviation from the standard operating procedures.
INSPECTION AREA GIVEN BY THE FACTORY MANAGER:
In Cutting Department:
Fabric relaxation
Cut Quality
Damage Cutting
Production time
In Sewing Department:
In line Problems
Shrinkage and shade sorting: The test report sent by the MMC is followed and
proper roll segregation is done. Therefore there is not any problem.
Page 110
Fabric relaxation: recommended fabric and lay relaxation time is given so problem
regarding uneven lay length and stretching is not found. Lay checking is also
carried out and the bowing is corrected by making notches as well as pulling the
fabric in opposite direction.
Cut Quality: lay height is set according to the buyer specification as well as the
nature of the fabric. For confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is
done as well as from each cut block top, middle and bottom panel are matched
against original pattern as well as each other for the exact and even measurements.
So, there is no problem regarding the cut Quality.
Damage Cutting: End bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept in store
and if any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again
parts are cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same
ticket number is allotted to the cut pieces and sent to the sewing departments.
Production time: There is no time lag has been found in the cutting room. All
orders are cut before or on the scheduled time.
Suggestions:
The marker efficiency is generally 70% so there is no measures have been taken to
utilize waste fabric in constructive way. Those can be used for the operators
training as well as for their stitch practices.
Whenever new blade is fed in the straight knife frayed edges and wavy marks are
seen on the lay sides. This should not be ignored.
The capacity of the cutting room is under utilization, it can take approx. 5% more
orders.
Page 111
In Sewing Department:
1. Pre production operation:
Operators and tailors are assigned for the each and every operation in one day
advance.
List of the machineries and folders required for the production are given to the
maintenance department three to seven days in advance.
Capacity of the operator: at the time when any critical operation or bottleneck is
found in the line, then by time study operators capacity for an hour is calculated
by production manager/ executive.
Production executive / supervisor also analyses the way of stitching and operators
feedback may suggest some new innovative ideas for doing that operation.
Page 112
difficult to overcome the start up losses. However, a full function line can produce up to
850 pieces per day but it is rarely achieved. It also causes non uniformity in the stitches as
different people have different way of stitching. Due to absence of a skilled tailor, stitch
quality also deteriorates as well as that place has to fill with two semi skilled operators.
Absenteeis
Workers
Date
m%
present
7-Jun-07
8-Jun-07
9-Jun-07
11-Jun-07
12-Jun-07
13-Jun-07
14-Jun-07
15-Jun-07
16-Jun-07
18-Jun-07
19-Jun-07
20-Jun-07
21-Jun-07
22-Jun-07
23-Jun-07
25-Jun-07
26-Jun-07
27-Jun-07
28-Jun-07
29-Jun-07
30-Jun-07
2-Jul-07
3-Jul-07
4-Jul-07
12.94118
10.58824
7.058824
16.47059
12.94118
10.58824
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
10.58824
74
76
79
71
74
76
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
78
78
78
78
78
78
76
Page 113
Page 114
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
7- 8- 9- 10- 11- 12- 13- 14- 15- 16- 17- 18- 19- 20- 21- 22- 23- 24- 25- 26- 27- 28- 29- 30- 1- 2- 3- 4Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun- Jul- Jul- Jul- Jul07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07
There is very less technical knowledge about the machine and stitches to the
workers.
There is not proper IE support to the production managers and the executives in the
unit.
Suggestions:
Page 115
Incentive
Rs. 600 + Medical Facility
Rs. 400 + Medical Facility
Rs. 250 + Medical Facility
Medical facility
No Medical Facility
There should be one hour training programme for the new operators after every 15
days.
There should be monthly general meeting between high authority and the operators
so that there problems can be seen from the grass root level.
New operator should spend every day first five minutes on the practice stitches and
these should be submitted as an assignment of the training programme.
There should be easy access to the IE tools and services for the production
managers and supervisors, so that their time can be effectively and efficiently
utilised.
Page 116
22. CONCLUSION
The industrial internship in the Ambattur Clothing Limited has exposed us to the different
and vivid facets of the garment field. Apart from the theoretical and practical knowledge
the internship has given us the opportunity to use our knowledge and skill in solving the
problems on the production work floor. The practical experience imparted by the
internship has helped us to visualize and analyse the ground level details in order to
understand the complexity of any problem. At the one end industrial experience had
conveyed the importance of professional and corporate approach towards the work and life
mean while at the other it helped us to understand the importance of emotional quotient in
increasing the productivity. It helped us to realize the importance and need of team work
in order to achieve success.The two months stay at Chennai has also given us the
opportunity to interact with the people of different culture, language and background.
Altogether it was a wonderful experience and memory to be treasured life long.
Page 117