Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Garment
manufacturing
is
an
assembly-
oriented
production
volumes,
supply
chains,
retail
range
from
small
family
business
multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.
to
Departments in garment
manufacturing unit
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-a
industry1.asp
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
the
fabric
for
the
bowing
or
skewing.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.
ics
r
b
fa
e
ar
ed
k
ec
h
c
to
e
re
t
Th
n
:
ce
r
(
fo
th
id
W
ts
de
c
)
a
h
ge defe
ea
t
S
d
s
(
g
ve
l
n
i
se
v
e
ea
ag
Functions
of
the
trims
and
accessories
department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production &
other material as per requirement.
To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.
Planning
Markers
Production
Spreading
Manual
Machine
Manual
Cutting
Preparation
for sewing
Machine
Ticketing
Bundles
Cutting orders
leads to
Marker planning
Lay planning
Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific
style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of
pattern
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005
Markers types:
Blocks or Sections
Continuous
Block or section
marker
Continuous marker
Markers types:
Open marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.
Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the
tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker
Marker making
Manually produced
Computerized marker
making (CAD)
Manual marker
omission of pcs.)
Accuracy depends on individuals skill.
Marker making
Computerised marker
Accurate
omissions
Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the
computer.
Can be printed/recalled/modified.
requirement.
Nap/
One/
Way
marker
(abbreviated
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005
Nap/
Up/&
Down
marker
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly Processes The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste
Requirement of spreading
Spreading
equipment
Spreading machines
Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines
In
manual
spreading,
fabric
is
the
end
is
secured
by
weights or by clamps.
The operators work back from the
end,
aligning
the
edges
and
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two
spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll)
walking along both sides of cutting table.
While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and
machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the
fabric in the process.
Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to
come back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return
movement of spreading machine is called as dead heading
Face one
way
Nap one
way
Face to
face
Nap
either
way
Face to
face
Nap one
way
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by
180 degree and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end
face one way. There is no dead heading by the machine in this
spreading mode.
Face one
way
Nap
either
way
Spreading costs
Labour cost
Fabric waste
Splicing loss
End loss
Width loss
Cutting
Scissors
Power system
Handle
Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Up and down
movement
One way thrust as the
circular blade makes
contact with the fabric
Round knife
Base plate
Straight knife
Round knife
Popular, light and fast.
Suitable only for cutting in
straight lines
or very gradual curves, in
depths of
about 15cm
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of
soft or
bulky material, or lower lays of
harder
material such as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer
swivel arm
It combines vertical cutting
and
band knife cutting into one
machine
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Die cutting
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Plasma
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature
cutting
ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Problems same as for laser cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature
ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Cutting
Stationary cutters: Water jet
Very high velocity, fine stream of water
cutting
High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum
decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
Leather, plastic, vinyl
High equipment costs
Cutting
Position markers: Notchers
Notches can be cut by straight knife
too but
accuracy is required
Specialized
notching
equipment
provides
greater accuracy because a guide
lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
Hot notcher consists of a heating
element
(blade) that slightly scorches the
fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
Two types of notches:
Cutting
Position markers: Drills and thread
Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a
markers
hole and spirit
level
Used for reference markers needed away from the
edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
A hole is drilled through the lay
Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible
until the sewing
Hypodermic
operator comes
to use
it drill leaves small deposit of paint on each
(or dye
spot)
scorches
fuse must eventually be concealed by the construction of the
ALL drillorholes
the edges of the hole
garment
Ticketing
may
be
incorporated for
payment purposes, control of
work
and facilitating quality control
Source: ApparelKey.com
Source: ApparelKey.com
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production
system:
Progressive
bundle system
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work,
reties the bundle and passes it to the next
operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or
table for storing the inter-process work between
each operation.
The work is routed by means of tickets.
This system is the most widely used system in
the garment industry today. It is used in shirt
factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production
system:
Flexible
flow
system
A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of
work in a rack at the side, work at an engineered
work place.
The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow
of work can be planned using the correct number of
operators in sequence.
For style A garments, the work distributed after
operation 1 can be distributed to the two operators
performing operation 2. On completion, the work
from both workers is then sent to operator 3. After
operation 3, the work is continued by the two
operators performing operation 4 and so on.
When a new style is to be loaded on to the system,
the number of operators needed for each operation
must be planned in detail to ensure a balanced
output.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production
system:
Straight
line
system
The manufacturing process is broken down into
several operations, which take the same time to
complete.
Groups of operators are required to handle only
individual garments.
The garment parts pass from one operator to
the next, until the garment has been completely
made up by one group of operators.
The central distribution unit may be a fixed
table or a a conveyor belt (its speed will be set
to suit the cycle time).
Source: ApparelKey.com
different
processed
garment
together
to
parts
form
garments.
Source: ApparelKey.com
are
then
completed
Production
system:
Modular
manufacturing system
Modular manufacturing groups operators
into teams, or modules.
The team works on one/a few garment at a
time instead of a bundle of garments.
The operators stand /sit at their stations
and rotate to different machines as they
work, becoming familiar with multiple steps
in producing the garment.
Thread-guides
Thumb-nut
screw
Stitch
regulator
Take-up lever
Tension
discs/checkspring
Needle
bar
Needle
Throat
plate
Reversing
lever
Needle guard
Presser foot
Machine
bed
Needle Bar
Needle
Throat plate
Needle Eye
Presser Foot
Feed Dog
Stitch forming
devices
Stitch
Device used
Lock stitch
Bobbin hook
Chain stitch
Looper
Over lock
Machine beds
Raised bed
Flat bed
Machine beds
Cylinder bed
Feed of arm
Machine beds
Post bed
For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S
Seams
The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or
characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type
together with the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and
end-product is of paramount importance.
Physical properties of
Strength: a seam must be
seam
directions: across the seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the
seam (longitudinal strength).
Extensibility
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear
the garment
Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an
Classification of seams
Superimposed
seam
Lap seam
Bound seam
Flat seam
Superimposed seam
Edge finishing
Bound seam
Lap seam
Edge finishing
Flat seam
Stitches
Stitch properties
Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.
Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can
be an indicator of quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means
long stitches. Generally, the greater the spi, the more the holding power
and seam strength.
Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation
Stitch
Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.
classification
Stitch
100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch
classification
Using one needle thread and one blind looper
Diagram
Stitch
class
Thread
count
Typical uses
101 Class
One thread
Basting, or light
construction
103 Class
One thread
104 Class
One thread
Stitch
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
classification
Using one needle thread
Diagram
Stitch
Thread
class
count
202 Class
205 Class
One Thread
One Thread
Typical uses
Basting, tacking or
repairs
Pick stitch topstitching
Stitch
classification
300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch
Stitch
Thread
class
count
301 Class
Two threads
Typical uses
Seaming multiple plies
Zig-zag stitch; a stretch
304 Class
Two thread
306 Class
Two thread
Blind stitch
315 Class
Two threads
lockstitch
Stitch
classification
400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch
Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads
Diagram
Stitch class
401 Class
404 Class
406 Class
Thread count
Typical uses
Two threads
Seaming multiple
plies with
moderate stretch
Two threads
Topstitching or
seaming with
stretch
Three threads
"Bottom cover
stitch; a (greater)
stretch chain
stitch
Stitch
classification
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
Stitch
class
Thread
count
Typical uses
501 Class
One thread
502 Class
Two thread
503 Class
Two thread
504 Class
Three thread
Stitch
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
classification
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Diagram
Stitch
class
Thread
count
Typical uses
512
Class
Four
Thread
514
Class
Four
Thread
515
Class
Four
Thread
516
Class
Five
Thread
Stitch
classification
Stitch class
Thread
count
Typical uses
602 Class
Four thread
Cover stitch or
seaming knits
605 Class
Five thread
Cover stitch
607 Class
Six thread
Wide cover
stitch
100% inspection
Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling
Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to
the amount of inspection to be performed
Inspection terms
100
Identification of defects
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would
cause the item to be second.
Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as
a second either because of severity or location.
Second: A Second is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects
the saleability or serviceability of the item.
Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:
Skimpy marking
Mixed parts
Generous marking
freedom
Mismatched
checks
and
stripes
Notches
and
omitted,
misplaced
drill
marks
indistinct,
or
Cutting defects
Frayed edges
Sewing defects
Needle Damage
Pleated seams
Feed Damage
Skipped stitches
Thread breaks
Staggered stitch
Broken stitches
Seam grin
Seam pucker
Seaming defects
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
Insecure back stitching
Twisted seam
Mismatched checks or stripes
Mismatched seam
Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through
the seam
Reversed garment part
Blind stitching showing on the face side
Wrong seam or stitch type used
Wrong shade of thread used
Assembly defects
Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.
Finished garment not to size
Parts, components, closures or features omitted
Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned
Interlining incorrectly positioned
Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,
Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness
Garment parts shaded
Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction
Mismatched trimming
Skipped stitches
Labels
Cracked stitches
Elastic
Stitches/inch
Measurements
Uneven seams
Mends or repairs
Stripe
seams
Hems
Trim
Broken needle
Raw edge
Distortion
The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of
sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process
average.
The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer
indicates will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling
procedures to be used.
to
to
15
16
to
25
26
to
50
51
to
90
91
to
150
151
to
280
281
to
500
501
to
1200
1201
to
3200
3201
to
10000
10001
to
35000
Sample
Size
6.5
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
Ac
10
Re
Ac
Re
13
20
32
50
10
11
80
10
11
14
15
125
10
11
14
15
21
22
200
10
11
14
15
21
22
21
22
315
14
15
21
22
21
22
21
22
Operations performed at
Thread cutting:
finishing
stage Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and
packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose
and uncut threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink,
rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains
Seam ironing:
Ironing
vacuum boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing
equipments.
Operations performed at
Tagging and
packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and
finishing
stage
packing section. It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to
provide the tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand
tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the
tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind
while placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label
and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is to pack the garments
as per the specification of the buyer.
Operations performed at
finishing
stage
Presentation
checking and cartoon packing
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation.
Checkers check the packed garments for the following things:
Poly bags are as per specification.
Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
Packing is secured or not if specified.
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
Hangers are there or not if specified.
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Operations performed at
finishing
stage
Presentation
checking and cartoon packing
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The
following things are kept in mind during carton packing: