Schlafhorst Texlab: Catalogue of Services

Schlafhorst TexLab
Catalogue of Services
Copyright:
All rights reserved. No part of this catalogue of Services
may be reproduced or copied in any form or by means
without the express permission of the Schlafhorst TexLab.
Dipl.-Ing. Iris Biermann
Phone: +49 - (0)2161 - 28 23 29
Fax:
+49 - (0)2161 - 28 30 84
E-mail: texlab@schlafhorst.de
Valid from:
October 2002
4.12
Contents
1.
1.1
1.2
1.2.1
1.3
2.
2.1
General Information
The Textile Testing Laboratory
Accreditation of the Textile Testing Laboratory
Accreditation Certificate
General Terms and Conditions of Business
2.8
3.
Textile testing on rovings/slivers
3.1
3.2
Determination of roving/sliver fineness

Determination of sliver unevenness
(Uster Tester 4)
Adhesion/slippage test on slivers
(Statimat ME)
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7
3.3
4.
Textile testing on yarns
4.1
Determination of yarn uneveness

(optical and capacitive), yarn imperfections,
density and roundness (Uster Tester 4)
Determination of the uneveness of single
and plied yarns by visual inspection (yarn
inspection board)
Determination of the fineness of single and
plied yarns (Uster Tester 4, Module F)
Determination of the fineness of single and
plied yarns taken from the fabric
Determination of yarn hairiness
(Uster Tester 4, Module H)
(Zweigle Hairiness Meter G565)
Simple tensile test on single and plied yarns
(Uster Tensorapid 3 and Statimat ME)
Determination of the tensile elasticity of
single and plied yarns (Statimat ME)
High-speed tensile test on single and plied
yarns (Uster Tensojet)
Determination of twist on single and plied
yarns (Zweigle Automatic Twist Tester D302)
Determination of twist on single and plied
yarns taken from the fabric
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.8
4.9
4.10
4.11
4.14
4.15
4.16
Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in

rovings/slivers
Micronaire, maturity and fineness of cotton
fibres (FMT 2)
Gravimetric test to determine the trash and
dust content (MDTA 3)
Determination of fibre tensile strength, fibre
elongation, fibre length, colour, trash content
and micronaire-value (HVI 900)
Determination of nep content, single fibre l
ength, single fibre diameter and trash content
(AFIS)
Test of cotton stickiness (SCT)
Detection of Cavitoma infestation
Determination of bundle strength and
elongation (Stelometer)
Fibre identification
2.2
4
4
4
5
5/6
4.13
4.17
7
7
4.18
5.
Textile Testing of fabrics
5.1
Tensile test on strips of textile fabrics

(Statimat ME)
Determination of the tensile elasticity
of fabrics (Statimat ME)
Determination of the tear resistance of
textile fabrics; leg tear growth test
(Statimat ME)
Determination of mass per unit area of
textile fabrics
Determination of the sett of the fabric
Determination of the weave of woven fabrics
Determination of the dimensional stability
of textiles
Determination of the colour fastness of
dyed and printed textiles
5.2
8
9
9
10
10
11
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
11
12
Determination of the yarn friction coefficient

(Schlafhorst Friction Tester)
Determination of the yarn abrasion behaviour
(Zweigle Staff Tester G555)
Determination of the snarling tendency
of yarns, Torque-Test
Determination of the number of wrapper
fibres on a rotor-spun OE yarn
Determination of the method employed
for the production of the yarn (Macroskopy)
Classification of yarn faults
(Uster Classimat 2)
Simulation of woven and knitted
fabrics (OASYS)
6.
Special Tests on fibres, yarns, fabrics

and auxiliary agents
6.1
6.2
Tests on wax
Determination of package density
18
19
19
20
20
21
21
22
22
23
23
24
24
25
25
26
26
13
13
14
14
15
15
16
16
17
17
18
1.
General Information
Schlafhorst is a producer of rotor spinning machines and

winding machines. Rotor spinning machines are for spinning yarns from natural and man-made fibres. Winding
machines transfer the spun yarns onto packages suitable
for the subsequent production stages. Thus, the basic
expertise of Schlafhorst lies not only in the field of
mechanical engineering but importantly also in the processing of textile raw materials and their conversion into
the semi-finished product, the yarn. The textile industry
worldwide uses for the production of garments, household textiles and industrial textiles predominantly yarn as
the semi-finished product and without exception fibres as
the raw material. The physical and chemical properties of
the textile raw materials and the technological characteristics of the yarns and fabrics determine the worth and
level of suitability of the finished textile goods for the
consumer.
1.1
The Textile Testing Laboratory
In order to ensure this basic expertise, Schlafhorst operates a Textile Testing Laboratory equipped with top-class
testing instruments and staffed with highly qualified personnel. The range of tasks of the Textile Testing Laboratory is:
Testing of fibres, yarns, fabrics and finished textile products with the following aims:
for the machine manufacturer, to provide support in

the development of textile machines
for the customer, to optimize the application range of
the textile product
for the textile industry, to provide a general support
service
Within this range of tasks, the Schlafhorst Textile Testing

Laboratory handles every year around 30,000 yarn bobbins and packages, around 1,000 samples of fibre materials and a large number of fabrics and finished textile
articles sent to it for testing.
The tests are carried out in air-conditioned testing rooms
in an absolutely constant standard atmosphere with 65%
relative air humidity and 20 C air temperature. This
ensures that the results of the tests are comparable with
those of testing laboratories all over the world.
The TexLab has its own electronic data acquisition and
processing system to which all test instruments are connected, so that errors in the transmission of data are
excluded. Customers are provided with easily understandable test reports. A special service offered by the TexLab
is the communication of the test report data via e-mail.
1.2
Accreditation of the Textile Testing

Laboratory
The Schlafhorst Textile Testing Laboratory has been officially accredited by the DAP Deutsches
Akkreditierungssystem Prfwesen GmbH (German Accreditation System for Testing Ltd.), in accordance with the
requirements specified in DIN EN ISO/IEC 17025:2000, as
laboratory covering the area of application of:
"textile-physical testing of fibres, slivers, yarns and
textile fabrics"
with the accreditation registration number DAP-PL2924.00.
Through this accreditation the Schlafhorst Textile Testing
Laboratory has been confirmed as a textile testing laboratory recognized on a European level under the terms of
the EAL MLA (European cooperation for Accreditation of
Laboratories Multilateral Agreement), by an official
accreditation authority certifying that it is competent to
carry out specific tests impartially, independently and
with integrity. The customer is thus given the assurance
by an external authority that the Textile Testing Laboratory of Schlafhorst is competent to render the services
offered within the area of application of this accreditation. Under the terms of DIN EN ISO/IEC 17025:2000,
"accreditation" is defined as:
"Formal recognition of the competence of a testing laboratory to carry out specific tests or categories of tests".
DAP -PL-2924.00
1.2.1 Accreditation Certificate
1.3
General Terms and

Conditions of Business
1.3.1 Content of the Contract

Our written order confirmation and the conditions set out
hereinafter shall be applicable to this Contract. An offer
made by us in writing and accepted by the Customer in
due time, even verbally, together with our Terms and
Conditions shall become part of the Contract. Additional
agreements and modifications shall not be valid unless
confirmed by us in writing. The foregoing shall also apply
if the Customer confirms the order placed with us. Our
conditions shall prevail in any case.
1.3.2 Execution of the order
Except as otherwise agreed upon in writing between the
parties to the Contract, the Schlafhorst TexLab will conduct the ordered tests in accordance with the test parameters set out in the Catalogue of Services (applicable
standards, scope of testing, etc.) valid at the time of the
test. The Catalogue of Services will be available for
inspection or the customer may have it sent to him any
time. The Schlafhorst TexLab may extend or restrict the
scope of a test if and when that is considered necessary
for the success of the test. Should the scope of a test
have to be extended for statistical reasons and an
increase of more than 25 % in the price of the test therefore become necessary, the Schlafhorst TexLab shall be
obliged to inform the Customer accordingly and obtain
Customer's consent.
1.3.3 Test material
The test material has to be sent "freight paid" to the
Schlafhorst TexLab. The cost of the return of the material
shall be borne by the Customer. The Schlafhorst TexLab
assumes no liability for the transport of the test material.
As long as the test material is in the hands of the
Schlafhorst TexLab, the TexLab will be responsible for it
only to the extent of the care normally exercised by it for
its own materials and equipment. Unless otherwise
agreed upon, the Schlafhorst TexLab shall have the right
to dispose freely of the test material received for testing
and any unused material shall become the property of the
Schlafhorst TexLab.
1.3.4 Test results
The test results shall apply exclusively to the sample(s)
tested. Test reports issued by the Schlafhorst TexLab are
legally binding only if written on the prescribed official
form and signed by the Schlafhorst TexLab.
1.4.5 Objections to test results
If a customer raises objections to test results communicated to him, the Schlafhorst TexLab will check the
results. If the original test result is confirmed, the cost of
checking shall be borne by the Customer. Otherwise, the
test report will be rectified at no cost to the Customer.
Objections to the test result will only be considered and
acted upon within 6 month of the date of the test report.
Objections will have to be made in writing. The
Schlafhorst TexLab reserves the right to keep samples of
5
all materials received for testing, in case they should be

needed for later checking.
1.3.6 Liability
Any liability of the Schlafhorst TexLab, of whatever type
and for whatever cause in law including liability in tort,
for faulty testing or incorrect test results or for damage
caused in the testing and checking operations, is excluded. This clause shall not apply in the case of damage
caused intentionally or by gross negligence. The
Schlafhorst TexLab shall be liable only for damage whose
existence has been proved by the Customer. The liability
of the Schlafhorst TexLab shall cover only direct damage
caused by acts or commissions occurred in connection
with the execution of the order, and shall be limited to
an indemnification not exceeding the amount of Euro
25,564.60. Any claims a Customer may have resulting
from improper execution of an order including claims for
damage shall be barred by the statute of limitations in
accordance with the provisions of section 638 of the German Civil Code.
1.3.7 Prices and terms of payment
Unless otherwise agreed between the contracting parties,
the prices to be paid for the tests are those set out in the
Schlafhorst TexLab price list valid at the time of the test.
The prices indicated are understood to relate to each test.
Where exceptionally a price refers to a sample or some
other unit, this is shown in the price list. The prices do
not include the German VAT value added tax. Where the
price of a test has to be specially calculated according to
the time actually required, the calculation will be based
on a rate of Euro 71.58 per hour. The minimum price to
be paid for any testing order will be Euro 51.13, VAT not
included. The invoice amount will be due immediately
and shall be transferred, net without discount, to the
account of the Schlafhorst TexLab within four weeks of
the date of the invoice, giving the Schlafhorst TexLab
invoice number. This shall apply also in cases where a
Customer has raised an objection according to 1.3.5
hereof. The rate of interest on arrears will be 3% above
the official discount rate of the Central Bank of Germany.
1.3.8 Other provisions
A test report may not be reproduced or transmitted, in
whole or in extracts, in any manner whatsoever without
the prior written permission of the Schlafhorst TexLab.
The Customer must not use a test report, in whole or in
part, for advertising purposes, if the agency having
accredited the Textile Testing Laboratory of Schlafhorst
considers such advertising as misleading. The accreditation of the Schlafhorst TexLab should in no case be taken
to mean that the agency having accredited the
Schlafhorst TexLab has accepted, verified or approved the
test results in any way.
1.3.9 Place of performance and jurisdiction
Place of performance shall be Mnchengladbach.
Place of jurisdiction for German customers having the
status of merchant or legal entity under public law and
for customers from other countries than Germany, shall
be Mnchengladbach.
6
2. Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in rovings/slivers
2.1
Micronaire, maturity and fineness of

cotton fibres (FMT 2)
Testing instruments:
Shirley Fineness & Maturity Tester Series 2 (FMT 2)
Fibre preparation and cleaning apparatus, Zellweger
Uster MDTA 3
Test results:
Micronaire-value (MIC)
Fibre fineness (dtex)
Maturity ratio (M)
Percentage of mature fibres (PM)
Material required:
Quantity: approx. 30 g of raw cotton
Sampling: 12 g of prepared fibres (3 x 4 g specimens
0.001 g)
Applicable standards:
ASTM D 3818 - Standard Test Method for Linear Density and Maturity Index of Cotton
ISO 2403 - Textiles; Cotton, Fibres; Determination of
micronaire value
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.14)
TexLab conditions for testing
Schlafhorst applies an empirically determined correction factor depending on the form of the material
tested (loose fibres, roving/sliver).
Note:
Fibre maturity and fibre fineness values provide information on the quality of the cotton raw material, important
for the processing of the cotton, the selection of the
spinning components and the spinning limit.
2.2
Gravimetric test to determine the

trash and dust content (MDTA 3)
Zellweger Uster MDTA 3 (Micro Dust and Trash
Analyser 3)
Test results:
Trash content in %, by weight
Fibre fragment content in %, by weight
Dust content in %, by weight
Material required:
approx. 20 m of roving/sliver
Sampling: 2 x 20 g of loose fibres, 10 m of roving/sliver
Filter mesh sizes: 15 for dust, 500 for fibre fragments.
Note:
Trash content and dust content in cotton are important
parameters influencing the spinning limit of the raw cotton. Foreign matter contained in the raw material can
have unfavourable effects in subsequent production
processes. For example, dust can accumulate in the rotor
groove, leading to moir-effect in the yarn. Knowledge of
the percentage values of foreign matter contained in the
raw cotton allows the machines in the spinning preparatory processes to be set to ensure an optimum level of
cleaning. Tests on the loose fibres or on the card sliver
indicate the degree to which the fibre material has been
cleaned in the preceding processes.
Accredited procedure
2.3
Determination of fibre tensile

strength, fibre elongation, fibre
length, colour, trash content and
micronaire-value (HVI 900)
High Volume Instrument (HVI), Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
Uniformity Index (UI), Mean Length (ML) and Upper
Half Mean (UHML)
Fibre tensile strength in cN or g tex -1 (1/8 inch)
Fibre elongation (%)
Stress-strain diagram
Micronaire value (MIC)
Reflectance, brightness, yellowness
Trash percent area (%), number of trash particles,
trash code
Material required:
Quantity: approx. 30 g of raw material, approx. 2 m
of roving/sliver
ASTM D 4605 - Standard Test Method for Measurement of Cotton Fibers by High Volume Instruments
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.15) Cotton
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P51) Man-Made Fibre
HVICC cotton calibration standard
The Man-made Fibre Program allows testing of synthetic fibres for length, tensile strength and elongation
Note:
The determination of the various parameters tested
allows assessment of the suitability of the fibre quality for
the various production processes.
2.4
Determination of nep content, single

fibre length and trash content (AFIS)
Uster AFIS with Multi-Data, modules for length, neps
(N) and trash (T), Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
Absolute and weight-related number of neps
Mean nep size and frequency distribution of nep size
(m)
Mean staple length and upper-quartile staple length
(mm)
Short fibre content
Frequency distribution of staple lengths (mm), by
weight and by number
Number of trash and dust particles, trash content
Size and frequency of the particles
Material required:
Quantity: approx. 10 g of raw material
Sampling: 10 x 0.5 g specimens of loose fibres or
sliver/roving
Note:
This testing method serves as a quality control throughout the opening and cleaning processes. The values
observed allow conclusions to be drawn with regard to
the carding intensity, the wear and tear of the cards, the
setting of the drafting systems, the checking of the
combing operations, and the feed materials for the
respective spinning methods.
2.5
Test of cotton stickiness (SCT)
Graf/IRTC Sticky Cotton Thermodetector (SCT)
Labormixer
Test results:
Number of sticky spots
Stickiness classification
Material required:
Sampling: 3 x 2.5 g 0.001 g of cotton
EN 248318 - Determination of cotton fibre stickiness,
using a manual thermo-detection device
Note:
Testing with the SCT Thermodetector allows general evaluation of the stickiness of the cotton tested. Stickiness
can be caused by physiological sugar (honey dew), the
secretions of insects, seed-coat oil or sticky foreign substances.
2.6
Detection of Cavitoma infestation
Chemical testing with an indicator solution
Test results:
Positive or negative result, i.e., identification of existing Cavitoma infestation or proof that there is no
such infestation
Material required:
Note:
Cavitoma is caused by the infestation with micro-organisms, which may occur under certain weather conditions
before the harvesting of the cotton or by improper storage. Destruction of the cellulose structures of the fibres
by micro-organisms can adversely affect fibre strength,
fibre length and dye affinity.
2.7
Determination of bundle strength and

elongation (Stelometer)
Stelometer, Spinlab
Test results:
Tensile strength (cN tex -1 or g tex -1)
Elongation (%)
Material required:
Quantity: approx. 30 g of raw material
Sampling: 10 specimens of the material to be tested
10 specimens of a reference material
ASTM D 1445 - Standard Test Method for Breaking
Strength and Elongation of Cotton Fibers (Flat Bundle
Method)
Note:
The Stelometer allows the determination of the tensile
strength of cotton fibres as a flat bundle with 1/8-inch
clamp spacing. Unlike the determination of the bundle
strength by HVI, the Stelometer allows testing of manmade fibres and coloured fibre materials.
2.8
Fibre identification
Zeiss Microscope with optical accessories, videostation
and camera adapter
Microtom, Leitz
Axiovision, image processing program
Test results:
Determination of the quality-characteristics of textile
fibres on the basis of fibre cross sectional views
and/or fibre longitudinal views
Fibre identification by means of photo-documentations
Material required:
Quantity: small quantity of fibres
ISO 3696 - Water for analytical laboratory use, Specification and test methods
DIN 60001-T01 - textile fibrous materials; Part 1: natural fibres and relevant letter codes
DIN ISO 2076 - Textiles, manmade fibres, relevant
generic terms and letter codes
Note:
There are as many different methods and procedures for
the microscopic examination and identification of fibres
as there are different textile raw materials. The fibres are
identified by their characteristic appearances and by
means of reagents and dye-tests.
10
3. Textile testing on rovings/slivers
3.1
Determination of roving/sliver
fineness
Zweigle Sliver Wrap Reel L212
Sartorius Textile Balance L2200
Test results:
Sliver/roving fineness in ktex
Sliver/roving fineness in Nm
Material required:
Quantity:
Roving
approx. 220 m
Sliver
approx. 20 m
Sampling:
Roving
100 m
Sliver
10 m
Compared with DIN EN ISO 2060- Textiles; yarns taken
from packages; determination of linear density (mass
per unit length) by skein method
Note:
The determination of the fineness of rovings/slivers is
important for the control of cards and drawframes as
well as for setting the draft on roving frames and spinning machines.
3.2
Determination of sliver unevenness

(Uster Tester 4)
Uster Tester 4, Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
CV (%) at 1 cm, 3 m , 10 m length of cut
(length of cut = test length)
Unevenness index (I)
Diagram
Spectrogram
Material required:
Quantity: 250 m
Sampling: 125 m test length
DIN 53 817 T02
Testing of textiles; determination of unevenness of
slivers and single/plied yarns; capacitive test
Testing time: 5 min
Testing speed: 5 m min -1
Note:
The quality of the yarns spun is influenced by the level of
evenness of the sliver fed. Determining the sliver unevenness provides a control of the levelling of the slivers on
the cards or drawframes.
11
3. Textile testing on rovings/slivers
3.3
Adhesion/slippage test on slivers

(Statimat ME)
Automatic Tensile Tester Statimat ME, Textechno
H. Stein
Mahlo moisture measuring instrument
Test results:
Maximum tensile force (cN)
Elongation at maximum tensile force (%)
Cohesion length (m)
Work to break (N cm)
Stick-slip curve
Material required:
Quantity: approx. 20 m
Sampling: 10 specimens x 1 m
Length between clamps: 3 times the fibre length
Test speed: 20 m min -1
Note:
The adhesion/slippage test on slivers is carried out to
determine cohesion length, maximum tensile force and
elongation at maximum tensile force of fibre strands
(card slivers, draw frame slivers) fed to machines of the
subsequent production processes. These values and also
the stick-slip curve are important parameters to know for
the spinning process.
12
4. Textile testing on yarns
4.1
Determination of yarn unevenness

(optical and capacitive), yarn imperfections, density and roundness
(Uster Tester 4)
Uster Tester 4, Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
Capacitive yarn irregularity CV (%)
Thick places (+50%) 1,000 m -1
Thin places (-50%) 1,000 m -1
Neps (+200%, + 280%) 1,000 m -1
Optical yarn diameter and diameter variation at cut
lengths 0.3 mm and 8 mm.
Yarn density
Yarn roundness
Irregularity spectrogram (optical and capacitive)
The standard deviation and the coefficient of variation
are given for all the measured values.
Material required:
Quantity: 1.200 m
Sampling: at least 5 test packages,
1.000 m test length
DIN 53 817 T02: Determination of the unevenness of
slivers and yarns; capacitive test
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.05 and LAA.P.48)
4.2
Determination of the unevenness of

single and plied yarns by visual inspection (yarn inspection board)
Yarn Evenness G552, Zweigle
Test results:
Inspection board
Classification of the yarn by Denkendorf yarn standards or ASTM Yarn Appearance Standards
Material required:
ASTM D 2255 - Standard Test Method for Grading
Spun Yarns for Appearance
Note:
Yarn inspection boards allow visual assessment of the
yarns. Besides the evaluation of yarn unevenness by
means of test instruments, yarn classification by means of
a yarn inspection board provides additional information
useful for the application for which the yarn is intended.

Test speed: 400 m min -1
Note:
The evenness of a yarn influences, among other parameters, the evenness of the appearance of the fabric made
from the yarn.
13
4.3
Determination of the fineness of single and plied yarns (Uster Tester 4,

Module F)
Uster Tester 4, Module F, Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
Yarn fineness (dtex)
Material required:
Quantity: this test is made parallel to the test for the
determination of the yarn unevenness
Sampling: at least 5 test packages
100 m test length
DIN EN ISO 2060 - Textiles; Yarns from packages;
determination of the linear density (mass per unit
length) by skein method
100 m in each test package
number of spot-check specimens per number of test
packages, is specified
Note:
The fineness (linear density) of single and plied yarn is
established by determining the ratio of length and material mass of a specified test section of the yarn. The result
is called the effective yarn fineness which may be different, within the tolerance band, from the nominal yarn
fineness.
14
4.4
Determination of the fineness of single and plied yarns taken from the
fabric
Analytical balance
Ruler
Test results:
Yarn fineness (dtex)
Material required:
Quantity: fabric 1 m in length
Sampling: at least 20 specimens, each specimen
500 mm test length
DIN 53 830 T03 - Determination of the linear density
of single and plied yarns; single and plied yarns; textured yarns; short-length method
DIN 53 830 T04 - Determination of the linear density
of single and plied yarns; single and plied yarns; elasto-yarns including corespun yarns made from elastic
fibres; short length method
Note:
Yarn fineness tests on single an plied yarns are carried
out by determining the ratio of yarn length and material
mass of a specific yarn test section. For the analysis, the
yarns are removed carefully from the fabric.
4.5
Determination of yarn hairiness (Uster

Tester 4, Module H)
Uster Tester 4, Module H, Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
Uster hairiness (H)

Standard hairiness deviation (sh)

are given for all measured values.
4.6

(Zweigle Hairiness Tester G565)
Hairiness Tester G 565, Zweigle
Test results:
S3 value 1,000 m -1 of yarn
(S3 = number of fibres which protrude by 3 mm or
more from the yarn axis)
Number of fibres from up to twelve different length
classes (1 - 25 mm) 1,000 m -1 of yarn
Coefficient of variation
Material required:
Quantity: this test

the determination
Sampling: at least
package, 1,000 m
is carried out parallel to the test for

of yarn unevenness
5 test packages, 1 test per test
test length
Applicable standard:

Material required:
Sampling: at least 5 test packages, 200 m test length
Pre-tension force: 4 - 5 cN
Note:
Yarn hairiness is a criterion of great importance for further processing, e.g., the number of passages in fabric
raising in the finishing process depends on the yarn hairiness level. Thus, knowing the hairiness value provides
information regarding the properties of the end product
(handle, voluminosity, etc.).
Note:
The fineness (linear density) of single and plied yarn is
established by determining the ratio of length and material mass of a specified test section of the yarn. The result
is called the effective yarn fineness which may be different, within the tolerance band, from the nominal yarn
fineness.
15
4.7
Simple tensile test on single and plied

yarns (Uster Tensorapid and Statimat
ME)
Statimat ME, Textechno H. Stein
Tensorapid, Zellweger Uster AG
4.8

of single and plied yarns
(Statimat ME)
Test results:
Test results:
Maximum tensile force (cN or N)
Breaking tenacity (cN tex -1)
Work to break (cN cm)
Bar diagram
Stress-strain curve (on request)
The coefficient of variation and the confidence interval as
well as the minimum and maximum values are indicated
for each measured value.
Force-elongation diagram of the deformation cycles

Total elongation and residual elongation (%)
Elastic elongation and elongation ratio (%)
Coefficient of variation, standard deviation and minimum
and maximum values are indicated.
Material required:
Quantity: 10 m
Sampling: at least 5 test packages, 10 values per test
package, 10 deformation cycles per test, test length
0.5 m x 10 = 5 m
Material required:
Quantity: 100 m
Sampling: at least 5 test packages, 100 values per test
package, test length 0.5 m x 100 values = 50 m
ISO 2062 -Textiles; Yarn from packages; Determination
of single-end breaking force and elongation at break

Testing speed: 5m min -1
Note:
Knowing the maximum tensile force and the elongation
at maximum tensile force of a yarn constitutes valuable
information for the further production stages, e.g., with
respect to the stress to which the yarn can be subjected
in the subsequent processes and the frequency of
machine stoppages caused by yarn breaks.
DIN 53835-T02 - Determination of the elastic behaviour of single and plied yarns; of filament yarns made
from elastomeric fibres by repeated application of
tensile load between constant extension limits
DIN 53835-T03 - Determination of the elastic behaviour; single and plied yarns; by single application of
tensile load between constant extension limits
DIN 53835-T04 - Determination of the elastic behaviour single and plied yarns; by single application of
tensile load between constant force limits

Pre-tension force: 4 - 5 cN tex -1
Testing speed: as specified in the applied standard
Note:
Textile fabrics made from yarns with poor elastic behaviour show poor wearability and serviceability. These yarns
are unsuitable for technical applications.
16
4.9
High-speed tensile tests on single and

plied yarns (Uster Tensojet)
Tensojet, Zellweger Uster AG
Test results:
Bar diagram, histogram, variation diagram of the
elongation at maximum tensile force and maximum
tensile force
Maximum tensile force (cN)
Breaking tenacity (cN tex -1)
Percentile values (distribution of the test values in
percent classes)
The coefficient of variation, the standard deviation, the
confidence interval as well as the minimum and maximum
values are indicated for each measured value.
Material required:
Quantity: 8.000 m
Sampling: the number of test packages required depends
on the task to be performed, 10.000 values per test
package, test length 0.5 m x 10.000 values = 5.000 m

Testing speed 400 m min -1. A selection of the broken
tail ends of a weak place in the yarn is possible.
Note:
The Tensojet high speed tester allows the determination of
maximum force and elongation at maximum force of single and
plied yarns at speeds similar to those actually used on the
weaving machines. It is thus possible to obtain in a minimum of
time information pertinent to the various zones of a yarn package. Periodic long-wave faults or slowly changing measured
quantities inside a yarn package can be detected and shown.
4.10 Determination of twist on single and

plied yarns (Zweigle Automatic Twist
Tester D302)
Automatic Twist Tester D 302, Zweigle
Test results:
Number of turns (T m -1)
Difference in twist (T)
Twist factor ()
The coefficient of variation, the confidence interval, the
standard deviation as well as the minimum and maximum
Material required:
Quantity: 200 m
Sampling: at least 5 test packages, 20 test per test
package, test length 0.5 m x 20 values = 100 m
DIN EN ISO 2061 - Textiles ; Determination of the
twist of yarns ; Direct counting method
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.03), untwist-retwist
method
Pre-tension force:
Ring yarn 0.5 cN tex -1
Rotor yarn 0.6 cN tex -1
Note:
The test method to be selected depends on the nature
and characteristics of the test material. The amount of
twist affects the technological properties of the yarn,
such as tensile strength, elasticity, appearance, smoothness, voluminosity and pliability.
17

Untwist-retwist method
of the slip-apart length

Untwist method
4.11 Determination of the twist of single

and plied yarns taken from the fabric
4.12 Determination of yarn friction coefficient (Schlafhorst Friction Tester)
Schlafhorst Friction Tester, Textechno H. Stein
Twist Tester, Zweigle
Test results:
Number of turns (T m -1)
The coefficient of variation, the confidence interval, the

standard deviation as well as the minimum and maximum
Material required:
Quantity: approx. 1 m fabric length

Sampling: 20 test specimens, 500 mm test length per
specimen
Test results:
Diagram of friction coefficient at 1 cN
input tension
Diagram of friction coefficient at 4.5 cN
input tension
Material required:
Quantity: see below
Sampling: Spinning bobbin: one full bobbin
Cross-wound package: at least one full spinning bobbin length on the package, OE-yarns: by special agreement
DIN EN ISO 2061 - Textiles ; Determination of the

twist of yarns ; Direct counting method
Note:
The yarn lengths for the twist test should be taken from
the fabric very gently.
Note:
The yarn-to-polished steel coefficient of friction is determined by this test method. The method allows checking
of the effectiveness of yarn waxing.
18
4.13 Determination of yarn abrasion

behaviour (Zweigle Staff Tester G 555)
4.14 Determination of the snarling tendency of yarns, Torque-Test
Zweigle Staff Tester G 555

Sartorius Analytic Balance
Yarn reel (1.5 yards)

Tripod
Weight rings
Test results:
Staff value (rubbed-off matter in mg per 10 g of yarn)
Test results:
Amount of twists for deciding if problems may arise in

downstream processing
The coefficient of variation, the confidence interval as

for each measured value.
Material required:
Material required:
Quantity: length of maximum 700 m

Sampling: at least 5 test packages per test
test length, depending on the yarn fineness, maximum
500 m
Quantity: 300 m per test package

Sampling: 2 test packages per material
Specimens:
< Nm 25 = 80 reel revolutions of 1.5 yards each
> Nm 25 = 160 reel revolutions of 1.5 yards each
Note:
Pre-tension force: 4 - 5 cN
Note:
This test method is predominantly used for manmadefibre yarns to check if the fibres have been exposed to
mechanical stresses during the spinning process or to find
out if any great amount of dust from the yarn must be
expected in the subsequent production stages.
The determination of the snarling tendency of the yarn is

important for evaluating the processability of the yarns in
weaving, knitting and also in finishing (e.g. ball warping).
High levels of yarn snarling in the textile production
processes may cause an excessive number of yarn breaks.
19
Ring yarn
Rotor yarn
4.15 Determination of the number of

wrapper fibres on a rotor-spun OE
yarn
4.16 Determination of the method

employed for the production of the
yarn (Macroscope)
GAG Yarn Analyser, Engineering College of Aachen
Macroscope, Wilde
Test results:
Number of turns required for untwisting (T m -1)
Change of length as the yarn is untwisted
Average mean values of the yarn diameters before
and after untwisting
Number of small-diameter places in the yarn, per test
length
Total number of small-diameter places and lengths of
the small-diameter places
Percentage of the total length of the small-diameter
places in the total yarn length
Total length of all small-diameter places (mm)
Test results:
Method employed for the production of the yarn
(e.g., ring spinning, rotor spinning, or other.)
The standard variation, the coefficient of variation and

the confidence interval are indicated for each measured
value.
Material required:
Quantity: 10 m
Sampling: 10 values per test package
test length 0.5 m x 10 values = 5 m
Note:
The number of wrapper fibres on the yarn has an effect
above all on its opening behaviour in the subsequent
production processes.
20
Material required:
Note:
The spinning methods are identifiable by the characteristic surface structures of the yarns produced.

Classification matrix
Fault cross-section
Fault length (mm)

Dev.(%)
Neps: 24 km-1
Value OCV: 12.80 %
Thick places: 105 km-1 Ref. value: 0.31 mm

Thin places: 0 km-1
Fault length (cm)
Speed: 400 m min-1

Length: 800 m
4.17 Classification of yarn faults (Uster

Classimat 2)
4.18 Simulation of woven and knitted

fabrics (OASYS)
Uster Classimat 2, Zellweger Uster AG
OASYS G 588 Measuring System - Transfer
OASYS - Gold Simulation Program
OASYS - Fancy Yarn Module
Test results:
Classification printout
Classification matrix
Card-board box with yarn faults
Class limits
Material required:
Quantity: minimum 100.000 m of yarn
Note:
The purpose of this test is the classification of infrequently occuring yarn faults. The Uster Classimat 2 allows
faulty places to be identified and cut out for visual
inspection and tracing the cause of the fault. At the same
time, a matrix is created showing the numbers of faults
registered in the various classes.
Test results:
Evaluation matrix of an optical imperfections classification
Number of imperfections (1,000 m -1)
Uniformity of the visual appearance of the yarn (%)
Simulation of the measured yarns on a yarn inspection
board, as a knitted fabric or a woven fabric
Creation of the design of a textile fabric made with
fancy yarns and simulation of that design in the textile
fabric.
Material required:
Quantity: no less than 2000 m of yarn
Applicable standard:
Internal Standard (LAA.P.80)
Testing speed: 400 m min -1
Notes:
An optical sensor scans the test material and checks the
course of the yarn diameter, thereby registering the neps
and thick and thin places as well as the uniformity of the
visual appearance of the yarn. On the basis of the data
registered, a computer creates a simulation of a yarn
inspection board, a knitted fabric or a woven fabric. In
this way, the expenditure for preparing patterns of the
knitted and woven fabrics can be saved and a visual
assessment of the applications for which the yarn can be
used is possible.
21
5. Textile Testing of fabrics
5.1
Tensile test on strips of textile fabrics

(Statimat ME)
5.2

of fabrics (Statimat ME)
Test results:
Stress-strain curves for all specimens
Mean stress-strain curve
Maximum tensile force (N)
Test results:
Deformation cycles (cN)
Total elongation and residual elongation (%)
Elastic elongation (%)
Elongation ratio

for each measures value.
Material required:
Quantity: 2 m fabric length
Sampling: 6 cm x 40 cm (fabric strip with the threads
on its sides stripped off 0.5 cm from the edge, parallel
to the yarn direction), 5 specimens each in warp and
in weft direction
DIN EN ISO 13934-T01 - Determination of the maximum tensile force and elongation at maximum tensile
force on textile fabrics, using the strip method
Note:
This simple tensile test allows the determination of the
relationship between tensile load and elongation of fabric
strips, or the tensile load and elongation immediately
before the break of the test specimen.

well as the minimum an maximum values are indicated
Material required:
Sampling: 6 cm x 40 cm (fabric strip with the threads
on its sides stripped off 0.5 cm from the edge, parallel
to the yarn direction), 5 specimens each in warp and
in weft direction
DIN 53835-T013 - Testing of textiles; Determination of
the elastic behaviour of textile fabrics by a single
application of tensile load between constant extension
limits
DIN 53835-T014 - Testing of textiles; Determination
of the elastic behaviour of knitted fabrics by a single
application of tensile load between two force limits .
Note:
The tensile elastic behaviour of a fabric is an important
characteristic for its wearability and serviceability. Basically, a distinction is made between testing with constant
force limits (retardation) and testing with constant extension limits (relaxation). The test results provide an indication of the residual deformation when a constant load is
applied.
22
5.3
Determination of the tear resistance

of textile fabrics, leg tear growth test
(Statimat ME)
Test results:
Diagram showing an analysis of peak loads, applied at
the tear propagation test
Tear propagation force (cN)
Material required:
Sampling: 5 cm wide x 15 cm long, cut in the centre
of the width (at 2.5 cm) to form two "legs" of 10 cm
length, 5 specimens each in warp and in weft direction
DIN EN ISO 13937-T02 - Tear propagation behaviour
of textile fabrics Part 2: Determination of the tearing
force, using the leg tear growth test.
5.4
Determination of the mass per unit

area of textile fabrics
Sample Cutter, Zweigle T610
Analytical balance
Test results:
Mass per unit area of fabric in g m -2
well as the minimum an maximum values are indicated
Material required:
Sampling: 5 circular specimens each of 100 cm 2 area
(Woven fabrics); 3 circular specimens each of 100 cm 2
area (Knitted fabrics)
DIN EN 12 127 - Textile fabrics; Determination of the
mass per unit area, using small samples
Note:
The determination of the mass of textile fabrics is useful
for acceptance testing and for proving that the required
production and delivery conditions have been met.
Note:
The leg tear growth test is used to determine the tear
resistance of a fabric, i.e. the force required to continue
or propagate a tear in a fabric under specified conditions.
The force registered is the force required to tear successive yarns in a fabric in the direction of the initial cut.
23

Weaves
Plain weave
5.5
Determination of the sett of textile

fabrics
5.6
Twill weave
Determination of the weave of woven

fabrics
Thread counter
Dissecting needle
Test results:
Number of ends per cm in warp and weft
Number of stitch wales and courses
Test results:
Material required:
Quantity: 0.5 m fabric length
Sampling: Size sufficient to allow measuring of 3 values each in the warp and in the weft direction of the
fabric
Material required:
DIN 53 883 - Determination of the number of courses,
wales and stitch density of knitted fabrics
DIN EN 1049-T02 . Woven fabric, construction,
method of analysis: determination of the number of
ends per unit length
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.39) (Woven fabrics)
Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.50) (Knitted fabrics)
Note:
The determination of the sett of fabrics is useful for
acceptance testing and for proving that the required production and delivery conditions have been met.
24
Satin weave
Thread counter
Dissecting needle
Type of weave
Weave pattern
Quantity: the test fabric must contain at least 5 adjacent repeats
DIN ISO 9354 - Weaves; Coding system and examples

ISO 3572 - Textiles; Weaves; Definition of general
terms and basic weaves
Note:
Woven fabrics are characterised by the type of weave.
The weave allows conclusions to be drawn regarding the
production parameters.
5.7
Determination of the dimensional stability of textiles
Commercial washing machine (Miele Novo Eco)
Commercial dryer (Miele Novotronic Duett A)
Calibrated ruler
Test results:
Dimensional change in mm or in % between the measuring points fixed in each case
Material required:
Quantity: textile fabrics: at least 1 m x 1 m
Ready-made textiles: complete article of clothing
DIN EN ISO 3759-04.1955 - Preparation marking and
measuring of fabric specimens of fabrics and
garments in tests for determination of dimensional
change
DIN EN ISO 6330-04.2001 - Domestic washing and
drying procedures for textile testing
DIN EN 25077-02.1994 - Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
DIN EN 3175-T01-10.1998 - Textiles; Dry cleaning and
finishing
Methods for assessing the cleanability of textiles and
garments
Note:
The determination of the dimensional change in a washing and/or drying process provides information about the
care properties of a ready-made garment at the user.
5.8
Determination of the colour fastness

of dyed and printed textiles
Grey scale for assessing staining
Grey scale for assessing colour change
Perspiration-Tester (colour fastness to perspiration,
colour fastness to water, colour fastness to sea water)
Commercial washing machine (colour fastness to washing)
Crockmeter (colour fastness to rubbing)
Multifibre companion-fabric
Minolta Colorimeter
Test results:
Rating for the assessment of colour change
Rating for the assessment of colour staining on the
material of the multifibre companion fabric (acetate,
cotton, polyamide 6.6, polyester, polyacylnitril, wool)
Material required:
Quantity: textile fabrics: fabric swatch of approx.
30 x 30 cm, Yarns: approx. 5 g, Fibres: approx. 5 g
DIN EN ISO 105-E04 - Tests for colour fastness, colour
fastness to perspiration (LAA.P.43)
ISO 105-X12 -Textiles; Tests for colour fastness
PART X12: Colour fastness to rubbing (LAA.P.45)
DIN EN ISO 105-E02 - Textiles; Tests for colour fastness; colour fastness to sea water; determination of
the colour fastness to sea water of dyed and printed
textiles (LAA.P.46)
DIN EN ISO 1205-E01 -Textiles; Tests for colour fastness; Colour fastness to water (LAA.P.47)
LAA.P.53 - Determination of fastness to washing; in
accordance with ISO 105 CO6-08.1994 - Textiles; Tests
for colour fastness; Colour fastness to domestic and
commercial laundering
Note:
Colour fastness in wear and use is determined. TexLab
assesses the colour fastness values by visual inspection
and by means of instruments.
25
6. Special Tests on fibres, yarns, fabrics and auxiliary agents

Specific density (g / cm 3) =
Density (g)
Volume (cm 3)
Volume,
conical
Volume,
cylindrical
6.1
Tests on wax
Hot plate
Thermometer for measurement of the solidification
point
Microscope
Penetration meter
Heating bath
6.2
Determination of package density
This test runs parallel to the rapid tensile testing on Uster
Tensojet. If required, how-ever, the package density
determination can be done without at the same time
determining the tensile strength.
Ruler
Balance
Test results:
Solidification point (C)
Description of the crystalline structure
Assessment of water solubility
Wax penetration curve from 20C to 40C
Description of the shape of the wax roll
Test results:
Volume of the yarn ring
Specific density of the yarn ring
Maximum tensile force and elongation at maximum
tensile force in the yarn ring
Material required:
Quantity: at least 2 wax rolls
Material required:
Quantity: depending of the task to be performed
DIN ISO 2207 - Determination of the congealing point
by means of a rotating thermometer
DIN 51579 - Testing of petroleum waxes; Determination of needle penetration
Note:
The test on the wax provides an indication of the suitability of a wax for use in the different climatic zones.

The determination of package density is carried out
along with the determination of the tensile strength
by means of the Uster Tensojet. In this way, the influence of the package density on yarn strength and
yarn elongation can be determined.
Note:
The determination of the package density provides information on the build and structure of the yarn package
and the winding pressure used.
26
P-S-200-12/02, ka, e
W. Schlafhorst AG & Co.

Blumenberger Strae 143 - 145
D-41061 Mnchengladbach
Phone:
+49 (0)2161 28-0
Fax:
+49 (0)2161 28-2645
Internet: www.schlafhorst.de
E-Mail:
info@schlafhorst.de

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Schlafhorst TexLab

Textile testing on rovings/slivers

Determination of roving/sliver fineness

Textile testing on yarns

Determination of yarn uneveness

Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in

Textile Testing of fabrics

Tensile test on strips of textile fabrics

Determination of the yarn friction coefficient

Special Tests on fibres, yarns, fabrics

Schlafhorst is a producer of rotor spinning machines and

The Textile Testing Laboratory

for the machine manufacturer, to provide support in

Within this range of tasks, the Schlafhorst Textile Testing

Accreditation of the Textile Testing

1.2.1 Accreditation Certificate

General Terms and

1.3.1 Content of the Contract

all materials received for testing, in case they should be

2. Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in rovings/slivers

Micronaire, maturity and fineness of

Gravimetric test to determine the

2. Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in rovings/slivers

Determination of fibre tensile

Determination of nep content, single

2. Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in rovings/slivers

Test of cotton stickiness (SCT)

Detection of Cavitoma infestation

2. Textile testing on loose fibres and fibres in rovings/slivers

Determination of bundle strength and

3. Textile testing on rovings/slivers

Determination of sliver unevenness

3. Textile testing on rovings/slivers

Adhesion/slippage test on slivers

4. Textile testing on yarns

Determination of yarn unevenness

Determination of the unevenness of

TexLab conditions for testing

4. Textile testing on yarns

Determination of the fineness of single and plied yarns (Uster Tester 4,

4. Textile testing on yarns

Determination of yarn hairiness (Uster

Uster Tester 4, Module H, Zellweger Uster AG

Uster hairiness (H)

The standard deviation and the coefficient of variation

Determination of yarn hairiness

Quantity: this test

is carried out parallel to the test for

Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.05)

4. Textile testing on yarns

Simple tensile test on single and plied

Determination of the tensile elasticity

Statimat ME, Textechno H. Stein

Force-elongation diagram of the deformation cycles

TexLab conditions for testing

TexLab conditions for testing

4. Textile testing on yarns

High-speed tensile tests on single and

Internal Test Specification (LAA.P.04)

TexLab conditions for testing

4.10 Determination of twist on single and

4. Textile testing on yarns

of the slip-apart length