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PATCH WORK
BERL N
Unstitching the Past

INTRODUCTION........................................ p4 -5

HISTORY.......................... p6 - 9

TRANSPORT...........................................p10 - 11

Outdoor Spaces.................................... p78 - 89

SURVIVAL............................................ p12 - 17

Eating & Drinking..................... p100 - 125

Shopping.................................... p134 - 141

Sights & Monuments...............................p20 - 39

Museums............................ p40 - 61

Nightlife.....................................p126 - 133

REVIEWS.......................................... p18 -141

Entertainment....................... p90 - 99

Galleries......................................... p62 - 69

Streets, Squares & Tours........................... p70 - 77

TEAM.......................................... p142 - 145

CONTENTS

Introduction
Even a short stay will reveal how
Berlins spaces parks, squares,
monuments and cafs are constantly evolving. The Berlin Wall,
a symbol of division and political
domination, now radiates colour
as an art gallery snaking along the
River Spree. The area around the
Brandenburg Gate, monumental
entryway for rulers throughout history, plays host to a Fanmeile during important football championships. 100,000 supporters can enjoy
beer, a wurst and a game on a big
screen. Everywhere, dners turn in
windows and halloumi sizzles, filling the streets with aromas of Turkish cuisine and reflecting the citys
prominent Turkish community.

The fabric of Berlin is woven
from threads of the past and the
present. A city with such a volatile
history, Berlin is a cultural nexus of
politically charged street art, multicultural neighbourhoods and the
shadow of past regimes.
Here in Berlin, one cannot help
being aware that you are the hub
around which turns the wheel of
history. Martin Luther King Jr. 1964
This guide explores Berlin whilst celebrating its patchwork of influences. Contrasts in architecture, people, and atmosphere are palpable;
something youll experience for
yourself during your trip.
What are your expectations for
your stay in Berlin? Do you think the
citys hipsters have swarmed over
its historical significance? Is the history of department stores, offices
and stations still recognisable, or
has it been forgotten?

Our team of travel writers, editors

and designers lived in the city for
a summer. They walked, trammed,
ate and clubbed their way across
Berlin to bring you a guide that will
help you take a step further off the
beaten track of the typical tourist
sights. Weve included the mustsees such as the TV tower and the
Reichstag, as well as our personal highlights like the Turkish Market
and our favourite vintage shops.
From solo travel and vegetarian
eating, to 24 hours in Berlin for 20,
our features will also help you see
the citys full potential.

Equipped with our book, unstitch

Berlins past for yourself, get lost in
the cultural diversity of the city and
create your own history.
Schne ferien!

Patchwork Berlin |

History
In the 20th century alone, Berlin survived
war, destruction, and division.
Central to Europe and to the world,
Berlin can be seen as the manifestation
of global conflicts and confrontation.
No longer an epicentre for trouble,
Berlin has created a position of global
importance that it continues to hold
today.
When the Berlin Wall was erected on
August 13, 1961, it did more than divide
families; it broke Europe into two worlds
and sealed the door between them.

As a hot spot in the Cold War, the city

saw the clashing of communism and
capitalism within its city boundaries.
The tensions that would arise over the
division of the city into the Federal
Republic of Germany (West Berlin) and
the German Democratic Republic (East
Berlin) would lead to confrontations
which would almost cause nuclear war,
such as the Berlin Blockade of 1948-1949
and the Berlin Crisis of 1961 at Checkpoint
Charlie.
The fall of the Berlin Wall in November
of 1989 would do more than mark the
reunification of Berlin; it would mark the

end of the Iron Curtain dividing Europe

into two opposing ideologies and two
opposing worlds.
In this way, Berlin has taken on various
roles of global significance throughout its
history.
When John F. Kennedy stood at
Brandenburg Gate and declared Ich
bin ein Berliner! (I am a Berliner), he
exemplified the importance of West Berlin
to the U.S.A. and the Western World.
An island of capitalism in a sea of
communism, West Berlin stood in direct
confrontation to the Soviet Union. East
Berlin, on the other hand, marked the
gateway to the West for many living in
the Eastern Bloc - or communist side - of
Europe.
As a result, Berlin came to hold much

more significance than simply that of a

capital city. It became a manifestation
of the conflicts of the 20th century.
Two Berlins came together on a night of
tumultuous events in 1989.
Right away, the concrete divide
between families, friends, and freedoms
disintegrated upon the words of SED
spokesperson, Gnter Schabowski.
Wall-beating garden hammers and
government machinery helped Berliners
untangle themselves from previous
boundaries; an undoing that catapulted
Germany to unification in 1990.
This German jigsaw has been successful
in areas such as politics, but perhaps
less in the social and
economic fields.
On
the
Berlin-scale,
however, the redrawing
of neighborhoods has
brought cultures and
communities together.
For
example,
Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg,
formed in 2001, is the
perfect
anti-capitalist,
creative persona of new
Berlin.
Its
home
to
the
Bundestags
single
Green MP and an
annual vegetable fight
that
celebrates
the
neighborhoods coming
together.
However, Berlins appeal,
as an alternative hub for
the worlds diaspora,
could end up being its
undoing as gentrification

becomes an increasingly prominent

issue.
Berlin has become a political nucleus to
rival London and Paris.
With the German voice in world affairs
more certain, deals and dialogue
springboard
from
the
sparkling
embassies along the Spree, yet amongst
the transparency of the Reichstags
gleaming copula, and the tahini of roti
wraps on Kastanienallee, youll find 21st
Century Berlin.

The Berlin Wall

When the Berlin Wall fell overnight on
November 9th 1989, the two halves of
the city found themselves unexpectedly
reunited. The 90 miles of border
fortifications were swiftly removed and
the city began the awkward process of
growing back together. While tracing
the former path of the Wall through the
city today, remnants can sometimes still
be seen, while in other places the former
border is undetectable.
One of the most vibrant spaces once
occupied by the border is Mauerpark
(literally Wallpark), north of the city
centre. Here, the only sign of the Wall is
part of the Hinterlandmauer - a smaller
wall which was part of the extended
border fortifications. This stretch of
graffiti-covered wall runs along behind
the amphitheatre, famous for its Sunday
karaoke. Just down the road from
Mauerpark is Bernauer Strae, where
the front of the buildings on the east side
of the street formed part of the border.
Today it is the location of the Berlin
Wall Memorial, made up of an openair exhibition running along the street,
incorporating historical remnants of the
border together with a recreated section
of the death strip.

Berlins train stations were meticulously factored into maintaining the Walls
integrity. Next to the Berlin Wall Memorial is Nordbahnhof, a so-called ghost
station until 1989. The division of the
city complicated its public transport
system. Some train lines started and
ended in West Berlin but had to pass
through a number of East Berlin stations
along the way. The station entrances
in the East were bricked up and trains
would travel through without stopping
while East German police patrolled
the platforms. Now a functioning train
station again, Nordbahnhof entrance
hall features a free exhibition about
ghost stations.
Throughout the city, two lines of bricks
are set into the road illustrating the former path of the Wall. Nowhere is this
more striking than by the Brandenburg
Gate, now one of the busiest tourist spots in the city. The Wall curved
around the front of the Gate, which
sat in the middle of the death strip,
before continuing south towards Potsdamer Platz.

Once the heart of Berlin, the Platz became a wasteland while the city was divided. The Wall
ran through the centre, next to the widest section of no-mans-land anywhere in the city. It
couldnt look more different now, with its high rises and malls.
One large piece of the original Wall can be seen on Niederkirchnerstrae, running along
the edge of the Topography of Terror exhibition, just up the road from the reconstructed
border crossing at Checkpoint Charlie. However the most obvious remnant is the East Side
Gallery. Famous for its murals, its the longest preserved section of the Wall, running along
Mhlenstrae next to the river Spree. Stretching across the river is the striking Oberbaumbrcke, a red brick turreted bridge, which was blocked to vehicles and trains for and used
as a pedestrian checkpoint.
While seeing actual remnants of the Wall may give a more tangible impression of what the
divided city looked like, its equally fascinating to look at the areas where traces of the border can no longer be seen. Berlins urban spaces are continually transforming, and have
created harmony where there was once division. As you flit back and forth across the city,
youll notice that the Walls presence and in many cases, its absence contributes to the
palpability of Berlins status as a junction between history and modernity.

Transport
Saviour and sorrow, seated or standing,
S-Bahn and U-Bahn; Berlins transport
network is a mixed bag of emotions and
no-thrill escorts.
With maps and common sense, however,
youll make it out alive.
On foot, youll find Berliners sauntering
through Kreuzberg and stomping about
Hauptbahnhof.
Below, the U-Bahn breaks Cold War
boundaries.
Above, the S-Bahn runs electrified rings.
Yet trams and buses still shadow the
urban fabric of East and West Berlin.
Alternatively, taxis, tuk tuks, and segways
will move you.
Tickets cater to single trip and monthly
visits best bought for the central AB
zone.

History
Berlins first overground line came about
in 1902, and underground line in 1910, as
a solution to traffic congestion.
These lines crisscrossed geographical
separations, and married communities.
Whilst the First World War halted U-Bahn
expansion, the Second World War magnified interest in a system that sheltered
Berliners from air raids.
The Wall then splintered a damaged train
network, with border stations acquiring
ghost status.
A former ghost station Jannowitzbrucke
- was the first one to be reopened as a
crossing point. Such events encapsulate
the role of transport in the rebirth of Berlin.

Arrival

Advice

Berlins history can be found in Flug

(flight).
Whilst Schnefeld airport acted as
headquarters for the Soviet Air Force in
1946, Tegel airport lays claim to Prussian
hunting ground, Versailles restrictions,
and Air -Lift heroics.
Ageing infrastructure and German
unification propelled plans for a new
international airport to replace those of
East and West.
Despite the ideals of modernity,
momentous
can
only
describe
planning hiccups behind an eight-year
delay.
Before Brandenburg International Airport
(BER) opens, Schnefeld and Tegel
connect Berlin with the world.
Schnefeld Airport is 18km southeast of the city centre, and served
by low cost airlines. A 3.50 ABC
ticket will get you to Berlin itself.
Tegel Airport is 11km north, served
by flag-carriers and long-haul
airlines. A 2.70 AB ticket will get
you to the city centre.

10

Rules and Safety:

-Plain-clothed ticket officers carry out
random inspections across the network.
Having a valid ticket will save you the
60 fine.
-Tickets not purchased from a bus driver
or on-board a tram require validation.
Stamp the ticket using the yellow box.
Transport Practicalities:
-Tickets cover all transport types.
-Train station ticket machines will only
accept German credit cards.
-Day Tickets are valid until 03:00 the next
day.
-Flag down a taxi for a 2km ride, and
youll pay the 4 Kurzstrecke rate.
-After 8pm on weekdays and at
weekends, a monthly ticket will cover an
additional traveller.
Destination Advice:
-Key sites such as Schnefeld Airport and
Potsdam lie within the C zone.
-The infamous 100 and 200 bus routes
make for inexpensive sight-seeing.
-The S5 is also scenic, from the medieval
Spandau to picturesque Strausberg.

11

SURVIVAL
The Bear Necessities

Tipping
Tipping is quite
easy. Just round
your bill up to
the next euro
and give that
to your waiter
at the end of
the meal.
Sunday, Funday?

Currency: Euro ()
Time Zone: Central European Time
Emergency Numbers: Police dial 110,
Fire and Ambulance 112.
Weather Average Temp: Summer 1526, Winter -3-2
Electricity: Continental two round pin
plug
Why cant you speak German?
Berlin is brimming with many nationalities and tourists so you could get by just
sticking to English, however the occasional Bitte or Guten Morgen might
help your cause. Here are a few phrases
to get you started:

Otherwise known as Zzzonntag, Sundays are the best days to unwind and
relax as most places shut. Just make
sure youre stocked up on food so
youre not caught out! On weekdays,
larger shops open at 8am and close
between 6pm and 8pm.

Starting Simple:
Hello
Please
Thank you
Goodbye

Hallo
Bitte
Danke
Auf Wiedersehen/
Ciao
Excuse me/Sorry
Entschldigung
I dont understand
Ich verstehe nicht
Do you speak Eng- Sprechen Sie English?
lisch?
Yes/No
Ja/Nein
I would like...
Ich htte gern

More Serious Stuff

Where is?/
Where are?
Toilet
Main train station
Bar
How much is?
Two beers
A glass of wine
Tap Water

12

Toilet Tricks
Dont expect to find any public toilets
around. Your best bet is to walk into any
restaurant or caf nearby, and (politely and confidently) request to use the
toilets there.
(singular) Wo
ist? /(plural) Wo
sind?
die Toilette
der Hauptbahnhof
die Kneipe
Wie viel kostet?

Zwei Biere
ein Glas Wein
das Leitungswasser
There is something Ich denke mit meinem
Handy stimmt etwas
wrong with my
nicht. Es findet deine
phone. It doesnt
have your number Nummer gar nicht!
in it!

How to buy beer, get into clubs and get

some bang back for your bottle
Theres no pint in denying it, Berlin is a
city built on beer. No matter what time
of day, whether inside or out, Berliners
are imbibing. And why not? Its legal
to drink on the street and although its
technically banned on public transport,
everyone does it anyway.
Sptis - late night corner shops selling
buckets of beer at bargain prices - are
everywhere. But with so many types of
ale on offer, it can get a little bamboozling. This is where we can help out.
The Pilsner Germanys go to pale
lager; perfect for all occasions and
cheap. City favourites include the Berliner Pilsner (the green bottle with the

rampant red bear logo) and the Berliner

Kindl (the oh-so-cute baby boy peering
over the pint glass).
In the mood for something a little different? Try a weisse beer. These slightly
darker coloured wheat concoctions
tend to have a bit more bite. They will
also fill you up faster.
If you see the word Hell written on your
beer bottle, its nothing Satanic, it just
means its pale. Meanwhile, the darker
Dunkel is more malty and only has a
slight hoppy bitterness.
So, now you know whats hop and
whats not, lets get onto the next part
of the night.
Clubbing is an altogether different
prospect in Berlin. Instead of wearing your poshest frock and fancy shirt,
scale it down with some vintage gear
or distressed denim. Failing that, shorts,
t-shirts and flip flops will do for most
places, except Berghain that is. No one
truly knows how to get into the famous
semi-mythical techno club, but rumour
has it donning black and speaking German is the way to go.
A word of warning however: dont get
too hammered before you get in any
queue. Surprisingly, the bouncers dont
take friendly to those slurring, swaying,
or being general buffoons.
When you come back home and see
a mass of empty bottles, dont panic,
theres money to be made. Take them
back and cash in your 8 for every item.
Bringing back the ale shall never fail!

13

As chilled as ice, but as ecstatic as spice, Generator Hostel is

the stronghold of art-craving,
facility-searching, buzz-seeking travellers. Situated in Mitte
a few metres away from Oranienburger Tor U-Bahn, this
hostel boasts a central location without too much gimmick.

Wombats City Hostel

Generator Hostel

Accommodation

Its communal spaces ooze

colour and its social areas
ooze cool. Emerald-green turf
carpets the historic courtyard
whilst a library contains plush
cushions and plentiful Wi-Fi.
One form of nightlife is sustained in the
ground-floor bar, whilst the other occurs
in one of many shared rooms. Sleeping conditions are ordinarily clean and
comfortable, with en-suite bathrooms,
private lockers, and bedside sockets.
Events and tours are almost on-tap,
whilst Hackescher Markt and Alexanderplatz are within walking distance.
This is where guide-book sights meet realistic simplicity. It is the embodiment of

Berlins creative credentials. The largerthan-life abstract faces of artist Thierry

Noir provide humanistic corridor dcor,
whilst Sebastian Preschouxs string sculpture twirls between the reception and
caf.
The expansion of Generators European
collection to Berlin saw the transformation of two 19th century office buildings
as a design-orientated endeavor. Even
the hostels G logo is commissioned in
a crocheted sculptural form.
For sure, the stream of happy sleepers
and socialites staying at Generator Hostel will leave with a sense of a historic
reputation to rival that of Mitte itself.

Oranienburger Str. 65, 10117,

Mitte From 20 24 hours
reception generatorhostels.
com/en/destinations/berlin/
mitte U Oranienburger Tor

Awake to the breaking of low expectations at Wombats City Hostel Berlin, ideal for its central location at Rosa-Luxemburg Platz in sight of the TV Tower.

Keen and knowledgeable receptionists

provide 24/7 assistance, whilst the hostel
organizes frequent events and information on Berlin experiences.

Wombats free WiFi, fresh linen, and gratis welcome drink make for a comfortable entrance to the city.
Top that with views and travel chit-chat
at the 7th floor WomBar.

Whenever and wherever, Wombats City

Hostels have been saving Euro-trip-travellers for 17 years, with other burrows in
London and Vienna.

Attention to detail prevails on all floors.

Communal spirit and human ingenuity
present themselves via recycled furniture
and a herb garden.
Rooms range from 2 to 6 beds, with contemporary but characterful furnishings.
Bedside sockets and reading lights allow
you to recharge yourself as well as your
gadgets.

Alle Schnhauser Str. 2, 10119,

Mitte From 26 24 hours reception wombatshostels.com
U Rosa-Luxemburg Platz

15

Students do it better:
This is a guide on how to spend a day in
Berlin, visiting the most important sights,
with less than 20 in your wallet. A whole
day travel ticket for zones A and B is
highly recommended, since it gives you
access to trams, the U-Bahn, the S-Bahn
and buses for 7.
10:00 Starting point, Alexanderplatz
Grab a pretzel and a coffee from one
of the bakeries on the square (2.5)
but dont eat it yet!
Take a look at the iconic Fernsehturm
(Television Tower)
Head to the Marienkirche (St Marys
Church), and spend 10 minutes inside to
admire its early-Gothic design.
Before leaving Alexanderplatz, check
out the Neptunbrunnen (Neptune Fountain).

A day for less than 20

10:40 Museum Island

Walk along Karl-Liebknecht Strasse to
Museum Island.
Once you reach the Lust garden, sit
down on the grass and enjoy your pretzel in the shadow of the Neo-Baroque
Berliner Dom .
Head left towards the museums and
wander around the picturesque streets
by the Altes and Pergamon Museums.
12:00 Unter den Linden

12:40 Brandenburger Tor

Leave Museum Island and walk along

Unter den Linden Avenue.
Make a stop at the Neue Wache and
then at Bebelplatz to see Humboldt
University and to go inside St Hedwigs
Kathedrale.

At the other end of Unter den Linden is the symbolic Brandenburger Tor and Pariser
Platz.
Turn left at Wilhelmstrasse and then right at Behrenstrasse to find the Holocaust Memorial.
Walk along the Hannah-Arandt Strasse, and then the Franzsische Strasse, up to Gendarmenmarkt, a beautiful square with two cathedrals.
Take the Franzsische Strasse U-Bahn towards Warschauer Strasse.
15:00 Kreuzberg
Grab a Currywurst near the station (3) and visit the East Side gallery, by the river Spree.
At the other end of the gallery, take the Ostbahnhof S-Bahn towards Nordbahnhof.
17:00 Berlin Wall Memorial
Head towards the Berlin Wall Memorial and spend an hour there learning about the wall
that divided the city during the Cold War.
18:45 Reichstag & Bundestag
Take the S-Bahn from Nordbahnhof to Friedrichstrasse and walk along the river to see
the Bundestag and the Reichstag (Houses of Parliament).
Sit down and relax by the River Spree.
If you have booked online in advance, you can visit the Reichstag Dome (free) with an
impeccable view of the city.
21:00 Hakescher Markt
Take the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn towards Hackescher Markt.
Head to the Monbijou Park and choose a beach bar where you can have dinner whilst
enjoying a beer and the lit up Museum Island by the river (7).
Enjoy!

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