Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Long graduation
Long graduation
This haircut first became popular in the 1970s. It brought new movement to long hair and
revolutionised the way it was styled.
Long graduation allows you to create a soft, textured outline shape while still achieving height and
volume on the top.
This haircut is still one of the most popular styles for long hair and it has developed to include
variations in length, texture and movement. It can even be used to produce the straight, flat look that
is fashionable today.
Almost all face shapes and hair textures are suited to long graduation because it is so adaptable.
For example, for a client with a square face, you can create short layers on the top of the head to
give it length. Or, if your cliens has a long face, you can shorten the overall length of the cut to make
their face appear rounder.
Long graduation is an adaptable, flexible and useful cut and it is likely to be the one that you use
most often.
Haircut guide
Before starting your haircut:
complete your client and hair analysis;
with your client, decide how long the cut should be; and
make sure your client is wearing a protective gown and is sitting
comfortably.
A long graduation is divided into four areas:
Back
Side
Layers
Fringe area
Follow your curved sectioning pattern back until you reach behind the
ear, pulling all the hair forwards to meet your guideline (but
remembering not to include the fringe area at this stage of the
haircut).
The layering technique
You will use square layering in this haircut.
Create a top box section on the top of the head. Take a section from
both sides, from the middle of the eyes back towards the top of the
crown.
Holding the hair straight up and keeping your fingers square to the
headshape, work forwards.
Next, work down from your top box section into the side areas. Direct
the hair upwards to your guideline, keeping your fingers square to the
headshape. Repeat on the opposite side.
To create the square layering in the back area, take a profile line
down the centre of the head and dirct all the hair upwards to meet
your guideline. Remember to keep the angle in your fingers if you
want to maintain length and weight.
Double crown
Nape whorls
Calf licks
Widow's peak
If your client has any of these growth patterns, you should cut without
using pressure to allow for the natural movement of the hair.
You may need to cut the sections of hair within the growth patterns
longer than the rest of the hair. This allows for the movement of the
hair as it springs back to how it falls naturally. The hair looks level
even though it has not been cut level.
Quality of hair
The quality of hair means the condition. Good quality hair is easy to
style. Hair that is thin and brittle is more difficult so you will need to
use styling agents such as mousse or gel.
Quantity
Quantity refers to the density of hair how much hair is on the head
and how thick or fine the hair shape is.
These factors are important when you are thinking about the balance
and control of a hair style. For example, it is easy to show volume on
thick hair. On thin hair it is more difficult so you need to use styling
gels and mousses.
When you are applying chemical treatments, the thickness of your
client's hair will dictate how much product and what techniques you
use. For example, fine hair can be more resistant to colour and perm
treatments.
Texture
There are three types of hair texture:
Fine
Medium/normal
Thick/coarse
The texture of your client's hair affects the size of the sections you
take. For thicker hair, you need finer sections to make sure the
guideline is visible. You need to see the guideline to know exactly
where to cut each section of hair.
In this case, our model's face shape is square.
Her hair type is naturally curly and it's density is above average.
Divide the hair cut into segments: back; side; front; and internal layers.
Step 17 of 19 - Fringe
You do not have to create a fringe with this haircut. You should
discuss this option with your client during your consultation.
To create a fringe, take a section from the natural parting. On our
model, we are using a side parting.
From the parting, take a curved section out to the corner of the eyes
on both sides.
Comb the hair down, using the wide teeth of your comb. This will
show up - and help you work with - any irregularities at the front, such
as an uneven hairline.
If there are any irregularities in the hairline, they should not come as a
surprise. You should have been looking for them during your client
consultation and analysis.
Step 18 of 19 - Fringe
Wet the hair. Using relaxed tension, hold the hair between your
fingers and cut straight across.
Because you have taken a curved section, the fringe will appear to be
curved.
Remember, your sectioning pattern dictates your cutting line:
curved sections mean curved cutting lines
square sections mean square cutting lines
Tip:
Always check the hairline movement at the
front. If the hairline is uneven, you will not
get a straight fringe.