SEPTEMBER 2016 | VOTED AUSTRALIAS BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

delicious.
BUON
MAMMA MIA!
Ricotta & cinnamon trifle
with salted amaretto jelly

APPETITO!
OUR GRANDE
ITALIAN ISSUE

RECIPES FROM GUY GROSSI,

GIOVANNI PILU, ADRIANO
ZUMBO, MASSIMO MELE & MORE

FOOD TRAILS

ROME + MILAN + SICILY

MATT MORAN

JAMIE OLIVER

SILVIA COLLOCA

Ultimate risotto,
minestrone & polenta

Three-cheese
pasta bake

Easy Italian
street food

SEPTEMBER

CONTENTS
REGULARS
10
13
14
15
17

Eds letter
delicious.com.au
Inbox
Menus
Out & about
Join us at OTTO in Brisbane.
18 Produce Awards
Announcing the 2016 state winners.
20 Subscribe to delicious.
31 Insider: news
Food trends and restaurant news.
34 Review
Sydneys revamped Dolphin Hotel
36 Drinks
Mike Bennie speaks Italian.
38 Prole
The inimitable Nigella Lawson.
40 Meat market
Its Italian, but not as you know it, as
Colin makes pork belly saltimbocca.
42 Im loving
Matt Preston takes on Sicily.
44 MasterChef
Billie McKays sweet custard arancini.
138 Insider: travel
Hot destinations, news and products.
153 Recipe index & directory
154 Innovators
Anthony Huckstep tries the good oil.

68
SAVOUR
21

Hand picked
Giovanni Pilus seasonal feast.
58 Entertaining
Australias godfathers of Italian
cuisine make you an offer you
cant refuse: lunch.
68 Faster food
Trattoria favourites in a ash.
78 Balancing act
Light, bright spring salads.
86 Vallis kitchen diary
Valli celebrates Italys top cheeses.
94 Jamie Oliver
Jamies ultimate comforting
risottos and pastas.
102 Silvia Colloca
Silvia gets streetwise with
Italys best bites made easy.

8 delicious.com.au

110 Matt Moran

Home-style grain recipes even
mamma would be proud of.
118 No waste
Showstopping Italian desserts
made with pantry staples.

ESCAPE

130 Global avours

A taste of Sicilys island culture.
140 24 hours in Rome
When in Rome: eat; drink; eat more.
142 Postcard
Shannon Bennett buckles down
to nd Milans most iconic dish.
144 Locavore
Cheese, wine, oil, and Italian
avour in Shepparton, Victoria.

FOLLOW US...
@deliciousAUS
Download our enhanced App
for Cook Mode & bonus content

delicious.com.au

For more delicious content.

ON THE COVER
Ricotta & cinnamon trifle with salted
amaretto jelly (recipe p 126)
Recipe Phoebe Wood
Photography Chris Court
Styling Kirsten Jenkins
THE DELICIOUS. TEST KITCHEN USES:

ME TO
O
C
L
E
W

INBOX.

TALK TO US
#makeitdelicious

I lived in Ireland (many moons

ago) and I fell in love with their simple
but wholesome food. Vallis Irish feature
in the June 2016 issue (Vallis Kitchen Diary,
p 112) with its hearty dishes reminded me
of just how comforting Irish food can be.
What better way to spend the cooler months
than by throwing a dinner party ire style.
Phoebe Phillips

round of applause
The July issue is the best! Love
the layout, cover and the recipes are
full of soul. This must be one of the best
issues for 2016 and all I had to do to enjoy
it was open my mailbox. Susanna Airlie

Words cannot describe

how incredible this
stack of pancakes was
coconut pancakes with
banana, creme fraiche
and caramel sauce
from your fabulous
website. Thanks
delicious.com.au.
@nellieannabelle

Christine Manelds unbelievable

salted choc-chip cookies from the May
2016 issue (Guest Chef, p 111) are now the
family favourite. Im baking double batches
to keep up with the demand. Theyre so
good, thanks delicious.! Janet Lynch

table star
Thank you delicious. and Matt
Moran for your wonderful herb and garlic
porchetta with roast winter vegetables
recipe (July 2016, p 112). I had to take a
photo in the nal stages of cooking before
my family came in and devoured the whole
thing. Takes me right back to exploring
the local markets in Italy. Chris Tuckwell

LAMINGTON LOVE
THANK YOU MONTY KOLUDROVIC FOR THE
JAFFINGTON RECIPE (JULY 2016, P 21)! WE MADE IT
WITH OUR FIRST BATCH OF ORANGES OFF OUR TREE.
BEST GLUTEN-FREE CAKE EVER! LHEANA GAVAGNA
tour guide
I couldnt believe my luck when
I booked our winter holiday in Queenstown
and the next thing that popped into my
mailbox was the March 2016 issue featuring
what felt like my own personalised foodie
guide (Locavore, p 142). Not one of your
suggestions led us astray! Sarah Asamoah

THE WINNER IS...

To the editors of delicious. from an appreciative reader, I quite agree with other readers
who fold down the corners of the recipes they like. We are only two people so with your
recipes I can make us a varied and interesting diet. A roast is generally too big, so the
pot-roasted lamb shanks with polenta and sprouts from your July 2016 issue were
perfect (Hand Picked, p 18). Your magazine makes me think to try new things and my
husband is always a very appreciative recipient. Thank you. Elizabeth Kelly, via letter

EDS NOTE: Congratulations, Elizabeth! Youve won a Marcato Pasta Machine valued
at $299. This stylish appliance will have you whipping up Italian dishes in no time.
For more information, visit: marcato.it.

14 delicious.com.au

bake queen

the whole hog

Big thanks to Colin Fassnidge and
Anthony Puharich for teaching me another
way to use a ham hock in their ham hock
& cheddar pie! (Meat Market, July 2016,
p 40.) Pea and ham soup doesnt cut the
mustard in our house anymore, so its great
to try something different. Catrina Murray

Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters, posts and comments.

PHOTO OF
THE MONTH

comfort food

MENUS

delicious.com.au/entertaining

Want more menu inspiration? Check out

our recipe collections for great ideas.

Veal cotoletta with

saffron tomato &
fennel salad

HEALTHY ITALIAN
N O - M E S S PA R T Y

FINGER FOOD

R US T I C LU N C H

TRATT CLASSICS

Fatalone Greco Bianco

Spinomarino 2013

Bird in Hand Arneis 2015

Cascina degli Ulivi Bellotti

Bianco 2013

Bird in Hand Nero dAvola 2014

Bird in Hand Honeysuckle

Riesling 2016

L I GH T EN U P

Cascinetta Vietti Moscato

dAsti 2015

delicious.com.au 15

OUT & ABOUT.

YOURE
INVITED

DINNER AT
OTTO, BRISBANE
N
Antipasti of fried Sardinian globe
artichokes, olives and cured meats
(bresaola, prosciutto and mortadella)
~
Farfalle with crab, cherry tomatoes
and lemon oil
PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO

~
Porchetta with fennel salad
& roast potatoes
~

VIVA ITALIA! Our love affair with Italian food continues as we head north to OTTO
Brisbane, the rst outpost of the iconic Sydney ristorante. Join us for this special
dinner created by head chef Will Cowper (pictured) in the glorious dining room
overlooking the Brisbane River and Story Bridge. Cowpers menu features the
best of Italiano: antipasti of fried Sardinian globe artichokes and salumi, farfalle
pasta with crab and cherry tomatoes, and crisp porchetta with fennel and roast
potatoes. The Italians know how to do dolci right, and OTTO signature creamy
tiramisu is the perfect dessert to end the meal. And dont think weve forgotten
the drinks (the Italians never would!) sommelier Alan Hunter has carefully paired
each dish with beautiful matching wines. Book now, this event is not to be missed!

WHERE

Lvl 4, 480 Queen St, Brisbane

WHEN

6.30pm, Tuesday, September 27

PRICE

$150 for 4 courses with matched wines

BOOK

(07) 3835 2888

OTTO signature tiramisu

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/PEOPLE-EVENTS for galleries from every delicious. event.

delicious.com.au 17

PRODUCE
AWA R D S
201 6

VALUED
AT $39.99

SUBSCRIBE NOW. VISIT: MAGSONLINE.COM.AU/DEL/M1609DLC,

OR CALL: 1300 656 933, AND QUOTE: M1609DLC

HAND PICKED.

NETTLE SPAGHETTI CACIO E PEPE

WITH GUANCIALE
SERVES 4

Uncooked nettle will sting unprotected

skin, so use thick rubber gloves when
handling. You will need a pasta roller.
200ml white wine
1/4 tsp dried chilli akes
2 garlic cloves, bruised
1 tsp whole black peppercorns
120g nettles (order from greengrocers)
or baby spinach leaves
360g semolina our, plus extra to dust
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
160g guanciale (cured pork cheek from
selected butchers) or at pancetta,
cut into thin strips
50g unsalted butter, chopped
11/2 cups (120g) nely grated pecorino
To make the spaghetti, place wine, chilli,
garlic, peppercorns and 1.5L (6 cups) water
in a large saucepan. Season with salt. Place
over medium-high heat and bring to the
boil. Add 100g nettle leaves and cook for
2 minutes or until wilted. Drain, reserving
3 /4 cup (185ml) cooking liquid. Place the
nettle and reserved liquid in a small food
processor and whiz until smooth. Using the
back of a spoon, press through a ne sieve,
pushing through as much nettle puree
as possible. Discard solids. Measure out
100ml nettle puree and set aside.
Sift our and 1/2 tsp salt into a large
bowl. Add nettle puree and 1 tbs olive oil
and stir to combine. Turn out dough onto
a lightly oured work surface and knead
for 5 minutes until smooth and elastic (add
a little warm water if dough seems too dry).
Enclose in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.
Divide dough into 4 equal pieces, then
enclose 3 portions in plastic wrap and set
aside. Start on the thickest setting of
your pasta machine. Run dough through
2-3 times, folding it in half each time, until
elastic. Keep rolling the dough through
the settings, reducing the thickness each
time, until 2mm thick. Pass through the
spaghetti cutter on the pasta machine,
then place pasta in a single layer on a
semolina-dusted tray and cover with a
clean tea towel while you roll and cut

24 delicious.com.au

remaining pieces. (Alternatively, fold

pasta sheets onto themselves lengthways
and thinly slice to create fettuccine.)
Return to tray.
Place a large saucepan of salted
water over high heat and bring to the
boil. Add the nettle pasta and cook
for 1-2 minutes until al dente. Drain,
reserving 1/3 cup (80ml) cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tbs
oil in a large frypan over medium heat.
Add the remaining 20g nettle leaves
and cook for 30 seconds or until crisp.
Remove using a slotted spoon and drain
on paper towel. Add the guanciale to the
pan and cook, stirring, for 4-5 minutes
until crisp. Remove frypan from heat and
add the drained pasta to the pan. Toss to
coat with guanciale and oil. Season with
pepper and stir in the butter and 1 cup
(80g) pecorino. Add reserved cooking
liquid and toss until creamy, adding a
little more water if pasta seems too dry.
Divide pasta among serving plates
and top with crispy nettle leaves and
remaining pecorino to serve.

BEEF TARTARE WITH

BOTTARGA MAYONNAISE
SERVES 4
1/4 cup (75g) whole egg mayonnaise
30g bottarga (cured mullet or tuna roe,
from Italian food stores and selected
shmongers), grated
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to serve
1/4 cup (50g) capers in vinegar, drained
400g beef rump, trimmed,
cut into 5mm pieces
1/4 cup (40g) pumpkin seeds (pepitas),
toasted
1/4 cup (40g) fresh or frozen peas,
blanched
Crispbreads and micro parsley,
to serve

DRESSING

2 tsp apple cider vinegar

2 tsp red wine vinegar
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tbs sh sauce
2 tsp hot English mustard

To make the bottarga mayonnaise,

combine the mayonnaise and bottarga
in a bowl. Set aside.
For the dressing, place all ingredients
in a bowl and whisk until combined.
Season and set aside.
Heat the oil in a small frypan over
high heat. Add capers and cook for
2-3 minutes until crisp. Remove using a
slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
Place the beef in a bowl with 1/4 cup
(60ml) dressing and stir to coat. Add
pepitas, peas and fried capers, and stir to
combine. Spread bottarga mayonnaise
over crispbreads and top with beef
tartare. Scatter over micro parsley and
drizzle over extra dressing to serve.

ASPARAGUS & TALEGGIO RISOTTO

SERVES 4

3 bunches asparagus, trimmed

1.5L (6 cups) chicken or vegetable stock
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
50g unsalted butter, chopped,
chilled
1 onion, nely chopped
300g carnaroli or Arborio rice
1/3 cup (80ml) dry white wine
30g nely grated parmesan,
plus extra to serve
60g Taleggio, rind removed
Micro basil, to serve
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil
over medium-high heat. Add asparagus
and cook, without stirring, for 2-3 minutes
until tender. Drain, reserving 1/3 cup (80ml)
cooking liquid. Place two-thirds of the
asparagus in a food processor and whiz to
a puree, adding a little cooking water to
loosen if necessary. Chill until needed.
Place the stock in a saucepan over
high heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce
the heat to low and keep warm.
Place oil and 25g butter in a deep
frypan over medium heat, swirling until
melted. Add onion and cook, stirring, for
2-3 minutes until softened. Increase the
heat to medium-high and add the rice.
Cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes until well
coated. Add the wine and cook, stirring,
for a further 30 seconds until evaporated.

HAND PICKED.

Add stock, one ladle at a time, stirring

between each addition and making sure
stock is absorbed before adding the next
ladleful, for 15-20 minutes until all the
stock is used and rice is al dente. Add the
asparagus puree and stir to combine.
Remove from heat and stir through
parmesan, Taleggio and remaining
25g butter. Season. Top with remaining
blanched asparagus, micro basil and
extra parmesan to serve.

ALMOND NOUGAT
MAKES ABOUT 20 PIECES

Store nougat in an airtight container

in a cool place for up to one week.
You will need a sugar thermometer.
4 sheets rice wafer paper (available
from speciality food stores)
2 eggwhites
600g caster sugar
1 cup (350g) honey
33/4 cups (600g) almonds, lightly toasted
Line a baking tray with baking paper. Lay
two sheets of rice paper over the baking
paper, slightly overlapping, to cover.
Place eggwhites and a pinch of salt in
the bowl of a stand mixer tted with the
whisk attachment. Whisk on high speed
until stiff peaks form.
Meanwhile, combine the sugar, honey
and 1/3 cup (80ml) water in a saucepan
over medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar,
then cook until syrup reaches 126-128C
on a sugar thermometer. Reduce stand
mixer speed to low and, with the motor
running, slowly pour the hot syrup into
the eggwhites in a thin, steady stream.
Increase speed to high and whisk for
10-12 minutes until thick and glossy. Fold
in almonds. Spread onto the centre of
the rice paper and top with remaining
2 sheets rice paper, slightly overlapping
the sheets. Using a rolling pin, gently
roll the mound of nougat so that it spreads
evenly under and across the paper to form
a 1cm-thick slab. Set aside to cool at room
temperature, then, using a sharp knife
dipped in hot water, trim edges and cut
into 3cm squares. Serve.
>>

MARKET
BASKET
NETTLE
Something that comes with the
word stinging or burning at the
front of it makes putting it in your
mouth sound like a dumb idea, but
we eat all sorts of stupid things if
you think about it: milk thats been
transformed by bacteria and mould
(hi, cheese), or rotted soy beans
(hello, miso). Its just a matter of
knowing how to control it. Stinging
nettle will inject you with histamines
if handled without protection (tip:
wear thick rubber gloves), but when
cooked becomes harmless, and
delicious with a bright greenness
and some zing. Young shoots and
small leaves are best, and will go
well in place of spinach, or in soups,
pesto, or pureed and stirred
through risottos and pastas.

BEEF RUMP
One of the most versatile and
flavourful cuts of beef, rump can
be broken down into smaller cuts
for steaks, roasting, stir-fries or
slow-cooking. Coming from the
hindquarter (its a rump) and
covering the hip bone, the rump
does a decent amount of work,
meaning its somewhere between
tender and tough, and generally
lean. Steaks are good medium-rare,
while rump works well in tartare as
it has more flavour than tender eye
fillet. Any concerns over texture are
overcome by chopping, which acts
to tenderise it.

ASPARAGUS
Supermarkets will often stock
Peruvian asparagus out of season,
which is like trying to sunbake in
winter, it just leaves you cold and
disappointed. Instead, buy the
freshest possible to get them at their
peak keep tabs on your grocer,
stalk the delivery guy because
theyll never be better than picked
straight from the garden. Blanched
and served with hollandaise or
soft-boiled eggs is a classic, but
chargrilling brings out nuttiness.

HONEY
Its worth trying honeys from
different areas, as the composition
is so dependent on the types of
flowers visited by the bees. This will
give different hues, trace elements,
consistencies, and flavours to
different honeys. Wellington Apiary
in Tasmania is one example of a
producer taking advantage of wild
flora to produce a unique product.
Try their firm, semi-sweet Prickly Box
honey over warm buttered crumpets.

WHAT ELSE TO BUY IN SEPTEMBER

artichokes blood oranges broad beans carrots grapefruit
leeks lemons mandarins peas Seville oranges
silverbeet spring onions strawberries (Qld; WA)

delicious.com.au 27

HAND PICKED.

BAYWATCH

Giovanni Pilu took a chance when he left his

home in Sardinia for Australian shores, but hes
making it count with a second restaurant and
an approach his mamma would be proud of.

iovanni Pilu is relaxing at a window seat of his hilltop

restaurant taking in the panoramic view of the waves from
Pilu at Freshwater on Sydneys northern beaches. The chef
(now restaurateur, as he calls himself) is a young mid-40s, with
traces of an Australian drawl in his Sardinian accent that hint at
a close relationship with the country he moved to at the age of
21 to chase a girl, Marilyn, (now his wife, business partner, and
mother of his two children) and a dream to work in hospitality.
I was still fairly young, he says of taking over his rst restaurant
at age 27. And thats when my life really turned around: rst baby,
new restaurant, we bought a new apartment at Freshwater. I dont
really believe in luck, because luck is not something that comes
knocking at your door you need to look for it but things went
in the right way. Pilu at Freshwater then came around in 2004,
combining Italian hospitality and generosity with knockout views.
Rave reviews and awards followed.
This January saw Pilu open another venture at Akuna Bay,
serving long Sunday lunches. Its a set menu, he explains. Meat,
sh, pasta, sides, tiramisu, panna cotta, it all comes out. We put it
in the middle of the table and like a lunch with friends or family
you just eat and share. Thats it, just like a Sunday lunch at home.
Pilu explains that a career built on seasonal Sardinian-style food
has become easier as Australian produce has improved. Theyve
even started serving a Locavore menu once every three weeks,
with key ingredients all sourced from within NSW. Seasonality
gives you the avours and the intensity, and that craving for stuff,
says the chef, No matter where you live, you can do any cuisine

28 delicious.com.au

CLOCKWISE (from
top left): Pilu at
Freshwater looks
over Freshwater
Beach; the venue
sits on a hill by
the water; Pilu
at Akuna Bay
serves long Sunday
lunches to share;
Giovanni Pilu.

as long as you respect the seasons and work with local farmers.
When local and seasonal became buzz words, Pilu saw it as
Australia catching up with ideas that were quotidian in a village
of 300 people back in Sardinia. I used to come back from school
with my brother, walk behind our house and pick wild asparagus,
you know the really thin ones he says. And wed make a little
frittata for afternoon tea. Or we would pick wild pears, even eat
them unripe, and wed choke on these bloody things! Stinging
nettle? We used to play soccer as kids and fall into bushes of it,
and get these rashes everywhere! So its something that I grew up
with, and now its almost trendy.
While providing a great experience is a priority, he understands
there is a bigger role for chefs in educating the public about good
food. Were spoiled here, sometimes in the wrong way; you can
get things all year round, he says. Seasonality. Local produce.
Thats the key for me, for all our chefs. This is what everyone has to
try to do. And then people come here and eat and learn about it,
take it back to the shops and then things change. Thats it.
@pilurestaurant

Download our enhanced

App for Cook Mode

delicious.com.au/food-les

For our seasonal produce guides, ingredient guide

and more recipes from top Australian chefs.

JAPAN
NATIONAL
TOURISM
ORGANIZATION

INSIDER.

TA B L E TA L K

WORDS DAVID MATTHEWS

TIPO00 PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MORGAN

STYLING KIRSTY BRYSON

Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, books & more.

CHEFS PICKS

Pablo Tordesillas won hearts

at Brisbanes Ortiga, now its
Sydneys turn at THE RESIDENT
overlooking Hyde Park. True to form,
Tordesillas goes heavy on Spanish
and Med avours, with bites like
anchovy and gordal olives (above)
mixed with small to larger plates.
Here, grilled octopus with ajo blanco
is a hit. Stop by in the day too, they
do sandwiches and salads next door.
Melbourne rejoice at the return
of Philippe Mouchel, whos had
a long-running love affair with
the city. His new digs, PHILIPPE,
is all charm with its zinc bar and
French classics. Signature rotisserie
chicken headlines a menu rich
with roasted meats, steaks and
contemporary touches.
BRITISH COLONIAL CO. in
Brisbanes Hawthorne is taking
inspiration from the British
Empire with everything from South
African to Middle Eastern touches.
That could mean orange blossom
doughnuts for brunch, Sri Lankan
pork belly to share, or Earl Grey
panna cotta for dessert.
Camperdown Commons has
turned urban farm, with ACRE
stepping up the farm-to-table
vibe in Sydney. Roast porchetta is
a treat and ex-Jamies Italian chef
Gareth Howard is doing good things
with veg. Expect more as the on-site
garden comes into its own.

4
Edited by Heidi Finnane and David Matthews
DELICIOUS.COM.AU Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our team of critics and reviewers.

delicious.com.au 31

Fans of top-down cooking

bibles will love EATALY:
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
COOKING for updated takes
on classics from the global
institution (Phaidon, $65),
then those with hungry
mouths to feed would do well
to grab MAMMISSIMA, with
rustic family recipes straight
out of Puglia. (Bloomsbury,
$39.99). Dreaming of Venice?
VENEZIA FOOD & DREAMS
is lled with stunning recipes
and photos from the oating
city (Murdoch Books, $69.99).

THE DAILY GRIND

D I A R Y D AT E

CUCINA CALABRIA
RUNS SOUTHERN
ITALIAN COOKING
CLASSES EVERY
2 WEEKS IN NSW.
SIGN US UP FOR AN
ITALIAN FOODIE
GETAWAY! $220PP.
CUCINACALABRIA.COM

Chopping Board
ct for Euro-chic
ing it cool when
couture.com.au

CELEBRATED
DESIGNER
RICHARD SAPPER
BRINGS A LITTLE
THEATRE TO THE
TABLE WITH THE
ALESSI TODO
GIANT GRATER.
JUST ONE LONGP
STROKE WILL TO
ANY RAGU WITH
A PORTION OF
FINELY GRATED
PARMIGIANO.
TOO EASY! $127.
STORE.ALESSI.
COM/AUS

TUTTI FRUTTI

Gelato has fallen out of the cone and splashed into everything from
the colour of our appliances to our plates, shoes and cookware.
1. Marc Newson 2 slice Sunbeam toaster in Lucite Green, $199, sunbeam.com.au. 2. Alessi Koki ice cream scoop, $60, alessi.com/en. 3. Beans +
Jazz yellow porcelain plate, $79.95, beansandjazz.com.au. 4. Norsu Menu salt and pepper bottle grinders in blush, $139, norsu.com.au. 5. Robert
Gordon Australia Large Mug-Swatch half-dipped mug in chantilly pink, $25.95, robertgordonaustralia.com. 6. Zakkia small clay bowl in purple, $19,
theminimalist.com.au. 7. Burch & Purchese passionfruit curd, $14 (280g), burchandpurchese.com. 8. Smeg 50s retro kettle in pastel green, $199, smeg.
com.au. 9. Le Creuset Signature cast iron 2.4L round casserole in coastal blue, $399, lecreuset.com.au. 10. Winston Watch silver and white with blue
leather, $199, winstontime.com. 11. RivaReno Gelato artisan gelato, from $4.90, rivareno.com.au. 12. Marimekko Yona shoes, $450, marimekko.com.

33 delicious.com.au

Style, substance and sophisticated Italian food in a pub? Anthony

Huckstep dives in to Sydneys reimagined The Dolphin Hotel.

34 delicious.com.au

in tune with the commoner as it is with the

gourmand. His dishes scream simplicity
but beneath the surface lies patience and
masterful craftsmanship.
Slender anchovies criss-cross buttered
Saos in the ultimate artisanal bogan
moment before beautiful burrata oozes
on the plate when provoked by a spoon.
Then toothsome Fremantle octopus,
braised for ve hours and grilled, is tossed
with poached kipers and salsa verde.
Its nice to see a venue champion Roman
pizza (think thin n crisp), rather than the
malleable Neapolitan discs ying about of
late. Simple tomato, garlic, basil and buffalo
mozzarella hit the spot for a mid course.
Gelatinous on-the-bone esh of whole
baked athead benets from burnt butter
highlighting porcini and seaweed. Intense
green dehydrated gremolata brightens
long, thick tongues of pappardelle with
chunky bolognese and dollops of buffalo
ricotta. And although bottarga brings an
umami bang to spaghetti, the delicate
sweet blue swimmer crab is a little lost
in the mix. Nevertheless its a great dish.
Desserts are just as well-conceived and
executed. Lemon pudding gets a bit of
woodred oven lovin and a marvellous
mascarpone mouth feel reminds me why
a scoop of a large tiramisu leaves those
single-glass pretenders for dead.
With this kind of eating and Terzinis
balance of professionalism with a sense of
couture casual, we could do far worse than
give him the keys to more Sydney hotels.

THE DOLPHIN
CUISINE
Contemporary Italian
CHEF
Monty Koludrovic
VISIT
412 Crown St, Surry Hills NSW
OPENING HOURS
Public Bar: 10am-12am Mon-Sat;
10am-10pm Sun.
Dining Room: Wed-Thu 5pm-late;
Fri-Sun 12 noon-late.
Wine Room: Daily 5pm-late.
BOOKINGS Yes
BOOK
(02) 9331 4800,
dolphinhotel.com.au
PRICE $$$
BYO No
OTHER FEATURES
Wine room and public bar
CHILD FRIENDLY
Yes

@huckstergram

@anthuckstep

delicious.com.au/eat-out
For more of our critics dining picks.

LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY JASON LOUCAS

THE LOCKOUT LAWS

proved that New South
Wales is a nanny state.
Just as common sense
regaled Sin City with small
bar licenses, blanket bans for knee-jerk
political pointscoring sent us hurtling
back to the Stone Age.
Anyway, pubs neednt be seedy swill
houses of social savagery. The reimagined
Dolphin Hotel is testament to that. A huge
hotel given a touch of style, substance and
sophistication without losing the swagger
of a local accessible to all and sundry.
Restaurateur Maurice Terzini (Icebergs
Dining Room and Bar) and his team have
altered our perception of what constitutes
a colossal haunt, with a remarkable t-out
featuring four dened spaces: a public bar,
wine room, public lounge and dining room.
Designer George Livissianis, known for
stellar work at Apollo, Cho Cho San and
Billy Kwong, removed a clunky mezzanine
to reveal the buildings bones and breathe
life into the space. Crumpled white cloth
wraps around walls as if Christo had a hand
in it, while local artists Beni Single and
Tracey Deep have provided exclamations
with grafti and sculptures respectively.
Meanwhile, wine gun James Hird has
produced a killer list in the wine room
and a highly accessible tome of table
wines for the dining room that underpin
executive chef Monty Koludrovics menu.
Koludrovic is a clever chef. Technically
tighter than spandex, his palate is as much

www.ara-anz.com

,
y
a
d
y
M
.
e
o
h
s
my

Fit your lifestyle.

DRINKS.

VINO VIDI VICI

Mike Bennie conquers the world of Italian wines from Aussie pinot grigio to orange
wine from northern Italy and a drinkable can of beer thrown in for good measure.
@mikerism101

LANGUAGE OF LOVE
Italian food is almost a second language in
Australian homes: pizza, linguine, fettuccini,
vongole. These and more all just about roll
off the tongue. All thats missing is righteous
drinks that feel good to enjoy alongside, so
I asked a couple of chef mates (who Im guilty
of begging for their best buffalo mozzarella
to go with olive oil and basil during tomato
season) to give me the lowdown on what they
like to accompany some of the Italian classics.

Pizza and pet nat: Monty Koludrovic

of Sydney landmarks Icebergs Dining Room
and Bar, and newly-styled The Dolphin Hotel
in Surry Hills, says of pizza, I recently had the
Cantina Giardino Frizzante, which is produced
with greco grapes from Campania. Its an
umami bomb from tomato land, made in
the home of pizza. It makes our Roman-style
no cheese marinara pizza with anchovies,
capers and beautiful tomato sugo dance.
Carbonara and orange wines: Mitch
Orrs staunchly traditional (read: cream-free)
carbonara sits opposite thrillingly inventive
pasta dishes at ACME in Sydney. In another
twist he reaches for Italian orange wines as his
carbonara match. Made when white grape
skins are left in contact with the juice, orange
wine has unusual hues and spicy aromas. Its
in your face, you dont need a degree to pick
delicate scents out of it, and the texture is
amazing, explains Orr. It matches our ideals:
minimal intervention; old world techniques.
Osso buco and lambrusco: Melbourne
chef-proprietor of Pope Joan, Matt Wilkinson
is on point with his love of the resurgent
lambrusco with osso buco. I drank a lot of
lambrusco when I was in Italy and its delicious
with this dish, he says. The sparkling red
style might have connotations of awful cheap
drinking, but a renaissance has seen many
well-made examples available. Here, the
savoury, dark fruit with light fizziness fits
well with the heartiness of osso buco.

delicious.com.au/drinks
For more Italian drops.

36 delicious.com.au

FIRST DROP MINCHIA

2012, $38 (ADELAIDE
HILLS, SA) I wont translate
the Italian slang minchia as
it will likely be vetoed by my
editor, but rest assured the
contents of the bottle are
very delicious. Vibrant and
fruity, it stains the palate with
dark fruit nishing with spice.
Perfect with parmigiana.

PERONI NASTRO
AZZURO CAN, $4 (ITALY)
I like calling Peroni beer
the other Italian mineral
water, such is its light
avour and ultra refreshing
feel. Its neutral in aromas,
faintly malty to taste,
vibrant with gassy bubbles,
and just so damn drinkable.
For enjoying in the sun.

LA STOPPA AGENO
2011, $70 (ITALY) This
is an orange wine from
the Emilia-Romagna region
that shows wild, incredible
perfume of quince, dried
apple and sweet spice.
Dives into the palate where
its juicy, then rm with chalky
tannins. Matches well with
chargrilled sardines.

SARACCO MOSCATO
DASTI 2015, $20 (ITALY)
Moscato dAsti sits at
5.5% alcohol, is gloriously
perfumed, lightly zzy, frisky
and sweet. The fresh, vibrant
feel of these wines make
them great drinking any
time, but they work best
after a meal, served up next
to beautiful, seasonal fruit.

QUEALY PINOT GRIGIO

2015, $25 (MORNINGTON
PENINSULA, VIC) Pinot
grigio is perhaps Italys
most well-known white,
and typically is a light, crisp,
grassy refresher. Winemaker
Kathleen Quealy has worked
with grigio in Australia for
longer than most, and this
is an absolute thirst-slaker.

CHRISMONT LA ZONA
PROSECCO NV, $22 (KING
VALLEY, VIC) Prosecco
grown and made in Australia
is gaining ground on those
produced in the homelands,
like this perky, fruity, zzy
version. Strident Italophiles
take note. Its great in a spritz
with a splash of Campari
and a wedge of orange.

Ikuei Arakane (Kin San) is the

chef behind popular restaurants
in Melbourne and Hobart.

PROFILE.

MY WEEK WITH

NIGELLA

IVE JUST COME OFF WORKING with Nigella for two

weeks on MasterChef. The resulting week of TV challenges
are unintentionally an insight into how she is seen in Australia
as the domestic goddess, as the queen of decadence, as
the English rose sitting under a marquee at a summer fete
for 2000 guests. Yet those two weeks have left me with a
somewhat different impression of the woman.
The rst surprise is how refreshingly down-to-earth she is
with everyone. This makes her an instant favourite with the
crew. She brings no army of PRs, PAs and managers but just
a true weathervane of a friend, Trish, who also just happens to
do her hair and make-up. Nigella is no shrinking violet when it
comes to expressing her views, and with a mind thats smarter
than a whip with a new haircut, she ts in immediately.
Her use of language is still beautiful, her palate true, her
knowledge deep and her input feels insightful, authentic and
fresh rather than the practiced shtick of some celebrity chefs.
There is little of the nger-licking Nigella beloved by
caricaturists on show. In fact she shies away from suggestions
that shes coquettish or irtatious on TV and abhors the very
word sexy. She is far more the woman who enjoys few things
more than curling up with a cup of tea and a good book in front
of the re. I am a very lazy person but I work very hard, she
admits, explaining the reasoning behind this contradiction. Im
not trying to escape I do what I love doing but I always say
lazy people work very hard because if we didnt wed just stay
lounging about in our pyjamas on the sofa all day.
She also admits to having an immoderate appetite for life,
and feels this is actually quite useful as a cook and recipe writer.
I always want the most direct route to something delicious to
eat!, she tells me with a laugh.
A true star, it is her impact on others that is most fascinating to
watch. In men, she inspires a protective, white-knightism, while
women greet her with empathy and a ready desire to share their
darkest fears with her. Its as if her stoicism and dignity in the face
of the challenges that life has thrown at her has done more to
shape how we relate to Nigella than all those books and TV series.
I ask her whether she sees the same bravery that others see in her,
I dont know that I am brave, she says. I feel that in life you just
have to get through things. When you are responsible for other
people there isnt much of an option; you just have to keep going.
A personal pride at holding yourself upright is also important.

38 delicious.com.au

While this belief hasnt wavered, theres no doubt that her

approach to food has shifted slightly. Flick through her latest
cookbook, Simply Nigella, and buzz ingredients like matcha,
coconut yoghurt, cocoa nibs and goji berries scattergun the
recipes Id point out that theres chia seed too if I wanted
to satirise myself entirely, I hear her pipe in.
In spite of all those so hot right now ingredients, Nigella
is no fan of the current diet cults that have deied them. Shed
rather people had a positive relationship with food instead of
one that slips into orthorexia. As she tells me, There is always
a danger that food is seen as something which is either good
or evil; that somehow if you eschew the evil and embrace the
good youll live forever which, obviously, is not the case. I nd
the term clean eating quite disturbing. I dont like the idea that
some forms of eating are dirty or to be ashamed of or that
it makes you a morally pure person because of what you decide
not to eat. I dont think we should be polarised.
At the end of the trip she sits on the couch in a Melbourne
hotel room offering to share her Lune almond croissant with me.
As she reclines on a sofa with long legs clad in black denim curled
beneath her, she is coursing with a nervous energy that Ive not
encountered before. The nal of a long day of interviews, we both
feel strangely self-conscious and the process feels a little forced
and uncomfortable. A few months later I ask her to share how
she felt during our conversation, Yes, it was strange. We had
chatted pretty much non-stop during the lming but having it
formalised like that made me feel a little self-conscious. But being
on MasterChef was a really inspiring experience, and I miss being
there. I am desperate to know how they went on and did.
Myself, Im just desperate to know her feelings about Australia
after this last protracted stay: I always love being, and eating,
in Australia, and I just cannot wait to return. I feel very at home.
So, as Arnie says, I will be back!
After two weeks with Nigella do I feel like I am any closer
to knowing who she is? Yes. Does the reality bear much of
a resemblance to the TV mask? Not really, but that just makes
me love her all the more. Am I writing this in my pyjamas sitting
on the sofa? Most denitely!
For more from Matt each week, see:

ON SUNDAY

@mattscravat

PHOTOGRAPHY DEBRA HURFORD BROWN

Captivated, enthralled and intrigued by the mystery that is Nigella Lawson,

Matt Preston documents his time working alongside her on MasterChef Australia.

MEAT MARKET.

Colin Fassnidge loves to mess with tradition,

much to the chagrin of Anthony Puharich.
But his clever saltimbocca inspired meatballs
are set to give Mamma a run for her money.

THE CHEF AND

THE BUTCHER

Download our enhanced

App for Cook Mode

40 delicious.com.au

SERVES 6-8

200g at pancetta (from Italian delis),

rind removed, nely chopped
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
2 onions, nely chopped
4 garlic cloves, nely chopped
2 tbs nely chopped sage leaves, plus
extra fried whole leaves to serve
2 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
2 /3 cup (60g) rolled oats
1kg rindless pork belly, minced
(ask your butcher)
3 egg yolks
11/4 cups (100g) grated parmesan
21/2 cups (250g) grated mozzarella

@cfassnidge

@fassnidge73

Place the pancetta and oil in a cold frypan

over medium heat. When sizzling, cook
for 2-3 minutes until fat renders. Add the
onion and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes
until softened. Add garlic, sage and fennel.
Season. Cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until
fragrant. Remove from heat and cool. Whiz
oats in a small food processor until nely
chopped. Transfer to a bowl and combine
with pork, egg and pancetta mixture. Using
1/4 cup per meatball and working with wet
hands, form into 20 balls. Chill slightly.
Preheat oven to 200C. For the sauce,
heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Add
onion and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes
until softened. Add garlic and thyme, and
cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
Add wine, scraping pan with a spoon. Add
bay, parmesan and passata. Season. Cover
and cook for 15 minutes or until infused.
Discard parmesan and bay.
Place meatballs in an ovenproof dish.
Pour over sauce and roast for 30 minutes,
then combine cheeses and sprinkle over.
Cook for a further 10 minutes or until
golden. Serve with fried sage.

@askthebutcher_

For more of Colins recipes, see:

ON SUNDAY

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

1 tbs extra virgin olive oil

2 onions, nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbs thyme leaves
11/2 cups (375ml) red wine
2 bay leaves
1 parmesan rind
700g tomato passata (sugo)

PHOTOGRAPHY BENITO MARTIN

PORK MEATBALL SALTIMBOCCA

TOMATO SAUCE

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY SHARYN CAIRNS

A Haha! Yeah, straight into the brick wall!

C Every month you give me a wall of doubt,
but we strap on our helmets and we get
through. This month its the Italian wall, and
guess whats on the other side? Meatballs.
A Weve talked about roadblocks, helmets,
Ireland and meatballs. Lets stick with
meatballs. What makes a good meatball?
C Fat. You need to have at least 25-30 per
cent. Pork belly is great because it increases
the fat content, and wont break the bank.
Add herbs to cut the richness, and cook it
in a tomato sauce for sweetness and acidity.
A What about the cheese?
C Im stingy because Im Irish, so I put
parmesan rind in my sauce to give avour.
A Fass sometimes I think you take this
nose-to-tail eating too seriously!

INTERVIEW SHANNON HARLEY

[The Chef and the Butcher are at Sydneys

restaurant Hubert, having just polished off
the whole chicken fricassee, which is served
with the head and feet for presentation.]
C I feel sick.
A Thats what happens when you eat the
chicken head, stupid. I told you not to.
C Alright, lets talk about my recipe.
A Pork saltimbocca meatballs, a recipe that
sounds as stupid as you eating the head.
C What do you mean?
A Its the Italian issue and Italians are mad
about veal, so we discussed vitello tonnato,
saltimbocca traditional dishes but the
Irishman found a way to bastardise things.
C Look, because Italians are so passionate,
I couldnt mess with tradition, so I had to
do a dish that wasnt typically Italian. I dont
like stuffed, rolled meat, and its so easy to
overcook veal, so I wanted to give people
another way that they cant stuff up.
A Saltimbocca is a classic dish super tasty,
cheesy, salty then you made it even more
desirable by turning it into meatballs. But
why mess with one of my favourite dishes?
C Veal llet is very expensive, and people
have mortgages and families Anthony
A Since when did that stop you? You did
the Black Amex burger last month!
C Italian is about la cucina povera, peasant
food; meatballs sum that up. Cheaper cuts
with herbs and spices. You know Im right.
A Im struggling to keep up with you Col
C Stick with me. I ght the system. If theres
a roadblock, I put you on the bike, or the
Vespa, with me and I drive straight through!

IM LOVING.

42 delicious.com.au

3 blood oranges or oranges, plus

nely grated zest and juice of
2 blood oranges or oranges
250g slivered almonds
8 dried apricots
11/3 cups (295g) caster sugar
5 eggs
1 tsp baking powder
160ml Campari or Aperol
1/2 tsp orange blossom water
Pure icing sugar, to serve
CHEATS ALMOND ICE CREAM

800ml almond milk

395g can sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup (125ml) thickened cream
For the ice cream, combine all ingredients
in an extra-large zip-lock bag. Place in a
shallow tray and freeze overnight.
Meanwhile, place blood oranges in a
zip-lock bag and microwave on high for
12 minutes. Do not seal bag tightly; take
care as oranges will be very hot. Cool to
room temperature, then chill overnight.
The next day, cut frozen ice cream
mixture into pieces, then whiz in a food
processor until smooth. Pour into a 1.5L
(6 cup) container and return to the freezer.
Preheat the oven to 150C. Grease and
line base and sides of a 22cm springform
cake pan with baking paper. Whiz almonds
in a food processor to a meal. Roughly
chop oranges and add to food processor
with apricots and 1 cup (220g) caster sugar.
Whiz until smooth. Add the eggs and
baking powder, and whiz for 30 seconds
or until combined. Pour into pan and bake
for 1 hour 40 minutes or until a skewer
inserted comes out clean. Cool in the pan.
To make syrup, place orange zest and
juice, Campari and remaining 1/3 cup (75g)
caster sugar in a pan over medium heat.
Stir until sugar dissolves. Increase heat
to high and boil for 15 minutes or until
reduced by two-thirds. Remove from heat,
stir in orange blossom water and cool.
Dust cooled cake with icing sugar, drizzle
with syrup and serve with ice cream.

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

OH, IM DESPERATE to go to Sicily, says the blonde across the table. Do I smile
and tell her I went recently and it was amazing, or will she detect my lie? Maybe it was
the weight of expectation, the heights that I expected the people, food and history
to reach, but after nine days there this is why I only sort of love Sicily.
Sicily isnt Italy The Italians are widely regarded as a joyous, friendly people; the Sicilians
are seen as grumpy and suspicious. This probably has something to do with the fact that
everybody from the Romans, Greeks and Byzantines to the Normans, Germans, Arabs
and Spanish have controlled the island and taken turns to bleed it dry, grinding down
the agricultural population. Even youd be forever suspicious of foreigners after that!
Sicilys beauty is veiled Take Taormina. While its hard not to sigh in awe as you sit on the
terrace of the restaurant Principe Cerami as the sun sinks into the sea, once outside this
hotel with its elegant courtyard bar, the hilltop town is too often overrun with tourists.
Sicily has amazing produce Go to Sicily in August when gs are in season and youll
feast on their esh for breakfast; perfect with slices of the local SantAngelo salami, the
specialty of the pig-loving township of Brolo. Through summer the tomatoes of Pachino,
and from the rich soils on the lower slopes of Mount Etna, will blow your mind. The price
you pay is that Sicilys hills are often lined with ranks of agricultural polytunnels.
Sicily thrives through adversity In 1693, 70 towns and villages were destroyed by an
earthquake, but in their place Spanish gold paid for the building of wonderful baroque
towns like Noto, Modica and Ragusa. Here youll nd some of the best dishes in Sicily
whether its Ristorante Accursios one-star take on street snacks in Modica, Ciccio
Sultanos interpretation of Sicilian avours and techniques at his two-star Duomo,
in Ragusa, or the ethereal ice clouds of Corrado Assenzas granite at Caff Sicilia.
Sicily has Ortigia Ortigia is now one of Sicilys gems, a small island of narrow alleys and
reclaimed palazzos. It has a magical dreamy quality. Here youll nd the perfect local
market loaded with everything from local sh, fat citrus and even tenerumi vine tendrils
to be served in soup or stir-fried with garlic or a panino shop selling toasties lled with
stringy smoked cheese and local charcuterie, and some great simple seafood restaurants.
Palermo has history too Palermo is graftied, run down and smells of sun-dried piss.
It is a city of crowded markets, menacing bars and shops selling fried spleen. Thats the
Palermo I dont love. The Palermo gold I treasure are their pyramids of crumbed arancini
stuffed with cheese and the soaring golden arches of the 12th-century Cappella Palatina.
The sea, always the sea The Mediterranean laps at Sicilys shores like a mothers touch
on a sick toddlers brow, but it not only calms, it also provides. Bluen tuna is still prized,
as are the anchovies from Sciacca and the swordsh landed on the island of Favignana.
The greatest Sicilian dishes revolve around this catch, including sarde a beccaco with
sardines rolled and baked stuffed with pine nuts, raisins and breadcrumbs. Most delicious
of all Sicilys delicacies are the red shrimp landed at Mazara del Vallo; slippery sweet,
these need little more than a splash of oil and vinegar. They alone are enough of a reason
to visit. These shrimp are not available in Oz, but you can still get a taste of Sicily with this
recipe for ourless blood orange cake with a blood orange syrup and almond ice cream.

Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS

He has a few gripes (just like the locals),

but Matt Preston manages to nd a few
reasons to love Sicily, sort of.

SERVES 10

WORDS & RECIPE MATT PRESTON

I (SORT OF)
LOVE SICILY

BLOOD ORANGE CAKE

MASTERCHEF.
SWEET CUSTARD ARANCINI
MAKES 12

Billie McKay loves Italian, but says sometimes,

the best dishes come from breaking tradition.
WE HAVE SO MUCH to thank the Italians for when it comes to good food. Pizza, pasta,
affogato, buratta, and, undoubtedly the best way to use lady nger biscuits, tiramisu. Italy
is a food-lovers paradise, but its not just the food that makes it so. It is the way the Italians
think about food and eating that really sets them apart from the rest. The food is simple,
yet so rich in avour. Slaving over a ragu for four hours is completely acceptable and totally
worthwhile, but then a chunk of fresh mozzarella with nothing more than olive oil, salt and
pepper is, in my opinion, what dreams are made of.
For Italians, eating and cooking with gusto are a true way of life. Whats more, Italians
are also savvy, taking yesterdays risotto, for example, and turning it into what I think is
even more delicious than the original dish, arancini. These balls of risotto, usually with a
mozzarella or ragu-lled centre, are crumbed and fried until beautifully golden. This got me
thinking about different llings for arancini and although not traditional, Ive found sweet
arancini to be absolutely delicious. A little like doughnuts but with a sweet rice lling, these
treats are completely irresistible and the hidden custard centre will leave you hard-pressed
to stop at one! And if you feel inclined, a little syrup drizzled over the top is to die for.

@billie_mckay15

44 delicious.com.au

Download our enhanced

App for Cook Mode

delicious.com.au/recipes
For more of Billies recipes.

WORDS & RECIPE BILLIE McKAY PHOTOGRAPHY BENITO MARTIN

SWEET LIFE

Place rice, milk, 3/4 cup (165g) sugar and

1 tsp salt in a saucepan over medium heat.
Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low.
Add the cinnamon quill and half the
vanilla seeds. Cover and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 15 minutes, then remove
lid and simmer, stirring, for 20-30 minutes
until rice is al dente. Remove cinnamon.
Whisk yolks, cornour and 1/3 cup (75g)
sugar in a heatproof bowl until pale. Place
cream and remaining vanilla seeds in a pan
over medium heat. Bring to just below
boiling point, then pour into egg mixture,
whisking constantly. Return to pan and stir
for 10 minutes or until thickened. Reserve
1 cup (250ml) custard in pan, then pour
remaining custard into rice. Spread custard
rice over a tray and chill for 2 hours.
Soak gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes.
Squeeze to remove liquid, then add to pan,
stirring to dissolve. Chill for 2 hours.
Place 1 heaped tbs rice mixture in your
hand and atten. Scoop 1 tsp custard into
centre, then enclose with rice mixture to
form a ball. Set aside, then repeat to make
12 arancini. Chill for 15 minutes to rm up.
Place our and breadcrumbs in separate
bowls. Whisk remaining 3 eggwhites and
2 eggs in a third bowl. Dust each arancini
in our, then dip in egg and roll in crumbs.
Repeat egg and crumb layers once more.
Chill for 15 minutes to rm up.
Half ll a saucepan with oil and heat to
170C. Combine ground cinnamon and
remaining 1/2 cup (110g) sugar in a bowl.
In batches, fry arancini for 2-3 minutes until
golden. Roll in cinnamon sugar to coat.

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH

1 cup (220g) Arborio rice

1L (4 cups) milk
350g caster sugar
1 cinnamon quill
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
3 eggs, separated, plus 2 whole eggs
1 tbs cornour
300ml thickened cream
1 titanium-strength gelatine leaf
1/2 cup (75g) plain our
1 cup (100g) breadcrumbs
Sunower oil, to deep-fry
2 tsp ground cinnamon

PRESENTS

BES T IN CL A SS

INTRODUCING THE MOST ADVANCED APPLIANCES

FOR THE HOME FROM HARVEY NORMAN

STEAM OVEN

COOKTOP

DISH WA S H ER

REFRIG ERAT ION

WA SH ER DRY ER

K ITCHEN

steamoven
Whether steaming week-night vegetables or baking dinner-party
soufs, the AEG 60cm MaxiKlasse 25 Function ProCombiPlus
SteamOven (BS836680AM, $5,999) gives perfect results with minimum
effort. It features ThermiCAir, which circulates hot air evenly
throughout the oven, so you have exact temperature control.

INNOVATION: SOUS-VIDE
To complement the AEG ProCombiPlus SousVide setting, the PrecisionVac
SousVide vacuum-sealer drawer can be integrated below the oven. This
combination allows you to precisely control the heat and humidity while
steam-cooking the most delicate ingredients a simple way to lock in flavour.

K ITCHEN

cooktop
The Electrolux Flexibridge induction cooktop (EHX857FHK, $2,699)
makes a chef out of any cook with technology that enables
professional-standard fare. It has four induction cooking segments,
soyou can use the smallest to make coffee in an espresso pot or
combine all the segments together for a large, single cooking area.

INNOVATION: FLEXIBLE BRIDGING

Flexibility meets control in the cutting-edge Electrolux Flexibridge induction cooktop.
If youre cooking for a crowd, the clever Flexibridge design lets you bridge three
cooking zones together or combine all four if you are using extra-large or multiple
cookware, while the controls allow for instant, precise heat distribution.

K ITCHEN

This AEG dishwasher (F87782M0P, $1,999) manages mixed loads with

ProZone, ensuring delicate glasses get the gentle care they require
without reducing the power needed for the pots and pans below. Plus,
the Sensorlogic function measures the size and dirt level of dishes
tone-tune programs, maximising water and energy efciency.

INNOVATION: GLASS CARE

The AEG 45C glass-care program keeps all your glasses sparkling, while
the SoftGrip and SoftSpikes design features secure your stemware for added
protection. The ProClean double rotating satellite spray arm and five spray
levels ensure maximum water coverage over the load for a spotless result.

K ITCHEN

The Electrolux FreshPlus range of fridges (EBE5367SD BMF with

water dispenser, $2,299, and EBM5307SA BMF, $1,999) offers food
storage exibility, stylish design and energy efciency. FreshPlus
detects when the fridge door is open and ramps up cooling to
stabilise the temperature so produce stays as fresh as possible.

INNOVATION: STYLISH BUILT-IN DESIGN

Along with its best-in-class FreshPlus crisper technology, Electrolux is keeping
things fresh on the outside with its range of built-in trim kits (ETK8080 Trim
Kit, $1,299), so you can customise your appliance to suit your decor. The kitsfit
perfectly, with no alignment issues in models of all sizes and formats.

L AUNDRY

washer dryer
Take the guesswork and hard work out of clothing care with an
AEG ProTex Series 9 OkoKombi washer dryer (L99699HWD, $3,499).
There are 16 wash and dry programs, including a steam refresh option
to freshen items after a days wear, a delicates program and a Woolmark
Blue-certied cycle for washing and drying woollen garments.

INNOVATION: HEAT PUMP TECHNOLOGY

The first washer dryer with heat pump technology available in Australia,
the OkoKombi has an energy rating of six stars for drying, meaning its costefficient and eco-friendly. The air condenser requires just one litre of water to
start the drying process and consumes no water during the drying phase.

The goods described in this advertisement may not be on display or available at each Harvey Norman Complex, or online if specified as available in store only. Call 1300 GO HARVEY (1300 464 278) before attending a
Harvey Norman Complex to enquire as to whether a franchisee at that complex has the goods on display or available. Prices may vary from store to store due to additional freight charges in certain areas. Offer ends 7/11/2016.

Uncompromised in quality.

Incomparable in taste.

Discover more at

eveningsofexcellence.com.au

Find us on

Facebook

AUSTRALIAS GODFATHERS OF ITALIAN FOOD 58 >> TRATT CLASSICS 68 >> BRIGHT SPRING SALADS 78
VALLIS FORMAGGI OVERLOAD 86 >> JAMIES BEST EVER PASTAS 94 >> ITALIAN STREET EATS AT HOME 102
MATT MORANS ITALIAN GRAIN RECIPES 110 >> NO-WASTE DOLCI 118

SAVOUR

58delicious.com.au

If revenge is a dish that tastes best when served cold, then Italian
hospitality is best served hot. Weve pulled together the godfathers
of Australias food world to create the ultimate Italian feast.
WORDS SHANNON HARLEY

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER

STYLING JUSTINE POOLE

he one word that sums up the

way Italians entertain, says
Guy Grossi, is generosity.
When you have people over
to your home or restaurant,
theres that feeling of warmth and
hospitality we approach things with
gusto, says the man behind Melbournes
Grossi Florentino, Merchant and Ombra.
Fellow godfather Massimo Mele agrees:
Theres a concept in Italy called la bella
gura, which is all about making an
impression. Its such an important part
of life. When someone comes around,
you create a beautiful table, use the best
crockery and create a warm welcome,
regardless of how rich or poor you are.
Yes, its very Italian that when you
have a guest, the best comes out, says
Giovanni Pilu. In the olden days, people

couldnt afford meat every day and pasta

was made only with our and water, but
on Sundays and special occasions, my
parents would add eggs to the dough
and buy a piece of meat. Ive chosen
roast suckling pig for todays menu as
we would always kill a pig for celebrations
growing up in Sardinia.
For Federico Zanellato from Sydneys
LuMi, meat is reserved for sacred
occasions at home and in the restaurant:
Italian food is perceived as rustic and
traditional, but Im making it light by
focusing on vegetables and fusing it with
Japanese avours. What we do at LuMi
is still la cucina povera, but elevated.
Despite the fact that these chefs
collectively run the countrys most
prestigious Italian restaurants between
them, tradition and peasant cooking are
very much at the heart of what they do.
For Naples-born Mele, its memories
of family holidays on the Amal coast
eating sardines prepared by his mum;
for Ottos Richard Ptacnik, its foraging
in the woods for mushrooms and trufes
with his grandmother. Now its trendy
all this stuff sharing, foraging, grass-fed
beef, dry-aging but we grew up with it,
says Pilu summing up the collective
sentiment. Im not stuck on tradition,
I just respect it and really love it.

Mixed tiles (used throughout) from Tiles by Kate and Alexandria Tiles,
For stockist details, see Directory, p 153.

ENTERTAINING.

Download our enhanced App for Cook Mode

ABOVE RIGHT:
Guy Grossis
schiacciata alluva
(foccacia with grapes
recipe p 67).
BELOW LEFT:
Negronis are Meles
choice for aperitivi.
PREVIOUS PAGE:
(from left): Mitch
Edwards from
PorkStars, Adriano
Zumbo; Nino Zoccali
from Pendolino, Guy
Grossi, Massimo
Mele, LuMis
Federico Zanellato,
Giovanni Pilu, Otto
chef Richard Ptacnik.

I warn people when they come over its not

a sprint, its a marathon! says Mele. For todays
feast, each chef has created a recipe that
best-represents Italy, inspired by their heritage
and memories. For Mele its sardines his mum
made during summer holidays on the Amal
Coast; for Grossi its a bread typical of Puglia
where his father is from; Ptackniks mushroom
pasta is redolent of foraging trips with his
grandmother; Zanellatos beetroot side elevates
vegetable-driven cucina povera with Japanese
avours, as he does at his restaurant LuMi;
the centrepiece is Pilus suckling pig, supplied
by Mitch Edwards from PorkStars and
reminiscent of celebrations in Sardinia,
where his family would break down a whole
pig over a three-day festival; and Zumbo
combines two classics in hazelnut panna cotta.

TABLE
Channel Francis Ford Coppolas decadent
mob-vibe in The Godfather trilogy with a
tuxedo-inspired monochrome palette with
splashes of chianti red. Rich marble, graphic
encaustic tiles, mismatching patterned plates
and dark onyx cutlery create a dramatic table.

PLAYLIST
The Godfather soundtrack and anything
by Nino Rota, of course.

DRINKS
To start its a Negroni or Aperol spritz, to nish
a digestive such as Fernet-Branca. Zoccalis wine
pairings include a perfumed Sicilian white, such
as Catarratto, for the sardines; a lighter red,
such as schiava from near the German border,
for the quail; and a bold, food-friendly Barolo
or Barbaresco from Piedmont with the pork.

delicious.com.au 61

ENTERTAINING.

MASSIMO MELE

POLENTA-CRUSTED SARDINES
WITH SALSA VERDE
SERVES 8

Growing up in the south of Italy, I never

tried polenta until I moved to Australia!

NINO ZOCCALI
2 tbs each nely chopped at-leaf
parsley, oregano and chives
1/2 bunch rocket leaves, nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
Juice of 2 lemons
2 /3 cup (165ml) extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to shallow-fry
1/2 cup (75g) plain our, seasoned
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 cup (120g) polenta
16 sardines, cleaned, butteried (tails
intact ask your shmonger)
To make the salsa verde, combine the
herbs, rocket, garlic, lemon juice and
oil in a bowl. Season and set aside.
Place our, egg and polenta in three
separate bowls. Coat sardines in our,
then egg, allowing excess to drip off,
then coat in crumbs, leaving tails clean.
Heat 1cm oil in a large frypan over
medium-high heat. In 2 batches, fry
sardines, turning once, for 2-3 minutes
until golden and crisp. Drain on paper
towel. Drizzle with salsa verde, to serve.

62 delicious.com.au

BARBECUED PANCETTA & SAGE

QUAIL WITH FARRO SALAD
SERVES 8

6 quails, butteried, deboned, halved

lengthways, wing tips removed
24 sage leaves
24 thin slices pancetta
140ml extra virgin olive oil
2 bay leaf sprigs
1 large garlic clove, sliced
11/4 cups (250g) farro
3 heirloom tomatoes, sliced
250g cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup oregano leaves
1 cup chopped at-leaf parsley leaves
1/2 cup chopped mint leaves
1 red onion, thinly sliced into rounds
100g small black olives
2 /3 cup (110g) roasted almonds
1 tbs red wine vinegar
Place quail, skin-side down, on a chopping
board and place two sage leaves on each
piece. Wrap each in two slices of pancetta

and place on a baking tray. Drizzle with

cup (80ml) oil and add bay and garlic to
tray. Cover and chill for 1 hour or overnight.
Meanwhile, cook farro according to
packet instructions or until tender. Drain
and refresh under cold water. Place in
a bowl with tomatoes, herbs, onion, olives,
almonds, vinegar and remaining 1/4 cup
(60ml) oil and toss to combine. Season.
Remove quail from fridge 30 minutes
before serving. Season. Preheat a chargrill
pan or barbecue to medium-high heat.
Cook quail, turning once, for 6 minutes
or until golden and crisp but with a pink
centre. Rest, loosely covered with foil, for
5 minutes. Serve with salad.
1/3

RICHARD PTACNIK

FETTUCINE WITH MUSHROOM,

TRUFFLE AND EGG YOLK
SERVES 4
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
300g each shiitake and Swiss brown
mushrooms, sliced
1 garlic clove, chopped

ENTERTAINING.

saucepan with parmesan, remaining

50g butter and reserved cooking liquid
(adding a little extra water if necessary)
and stir to coat and warm through.
Divide pasta among bowls. Carefully
place an egg yolk on top and scatter
with extra parmesan, trufe and nuts. Stir
egg yolks through hot pasta at the table.

FEDERICO ZANELLATO
1 cup (250ml) chicken stock
1/2 cup (125ml) white wine
100g salted butter
1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked
4 thyme sprigs
1 cup (80g) grated parmesan,
plus extra to serve
4 egg yolks
Thinly sliced trufe and toasted
chopped hazelnuts, to serve
PASTA DOUGH

150g semolina our,

plus extra to dust
300g tipo 00 (super-ne soft our)
4 eggs
For the pasta, place semolina and our in
a large bowl and make a well in the centre.
Lightly beat the eggs with 1 tbs water and
pour into the well. Using a fork, slowly
combine the dry ingredients with the egg.
Turn dough out onto a clean work surface
and knead for 10 minutes or until smooth.
Enclose in plastic wrap and set aside at
room temperature for 30 minutes to rest.

64 delicious.com.au

Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces,

then enclose 2 portions in plastic wrap
and set aside. Start on the thickest
setting of your pasta machine. Run the
dough through 2-3 times, folding it in
half each time, until elastic. Keep rolling
dough through the settings, reducing
the thickness each time, until 2mm thick.
Pass through the fettucine cutter on
the pasta machine, then place in a single
layer on a semolina-dusted tray and
cover with a clean tea towel while you
roll and cut remaining pieces.
In batches, cook pasta in a saucepan of
boiling, salted water for 3 minutes or until
al dente. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup (60ml)
cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat oil in a large frypan
over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms
and garlic, and cook, tossing the pan,
for 3-4 minutes until mushrooms are
golden. Add chicken stock, white wine
and 50g butter and cook, tossing the pan,
for 6-8 minutes until slightly reduced.
Add herbs and season, then simmer for
2 minutes to infuse. Add pasta to the

SALT-BAKED BEETROOT WITH

SESAME AND GOATS CHEESE
SERVES 8

4 large beetroots
3 eggwhites, plus 1 egg yolk
500g rock salt
150g tahini
2 tbs each soy sauce and mirin
1 cup (250ml) grapeseed oil
2 tsp honey
Goats cheese, freshly grated
horseradish, toasted black sesame
seeds and chopped chives, to serve
Preheat oven to 180C. Place beetroot
on a baking tray. Whiz the salt in a food
processor until nely crushed, then whisk
in a bowl with eggwhites to a paste. Coat
beetroots in the salt paste to completely
cover. Roast for 2 hours or until tender
when pierced with a skewer. Cool in salt
crust, then break the salt crust open and
discard. Wearing kitchen gloves peel
beetroots, then thickly slice.
Place egg yolk, tahini, soy sauce and
mirin in a bowl and whisk to combine.

CLOCKWISE (from far left):

fettucine with mushroom,
trufe and egg yolk;
salt-baked beetroot with
sesame and goats cheese;
porcetto arrosto con
pinzimonio (oven-roasted
suckling pig with crudites
recipe p 67).

ENTERTAINING.

Transfer to a small food processor, then

with the motor running, add oil in a thin,
steady stream until thick and emulsied
(mixture should be the consistency of
mayonnaise, add more oil if necessary
to thicken). Stir in honey and season.
Spread tahini mixture over a serving
plate and top with beetroot. Crumble
over goats cheese and scatter over
horseradish, sesame seeds and chives.

GIOVANNI PILU

PORCETTO ARROSTO CON

PINZIMONIO (OVEN-ROASTED
SUCKLING PIG WITH CRUDITES)

oil in a bowl. Add the

micro parsley and season.
Cut pork into large pieces.
Arrange on a serving platter,
garnish with crispy rosemary
and serve with salad.

GUY GROSSI

SCHIACCIATA ALLUVA
(FOCCACIA WITH
GRAPES)
SERVES 8 AS A SIDE

This is a thick, dense focaccia

topped with grapes from my
fathers region, Puglia.

SERVES 8

3-4kg side pork belly (bone in)

100ml extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (55g) salt akes
4 rosemary sprigs
1 fennel, thinly sliced using a mandoline
2 carrots, thinly sliced using a mandoline
2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
1 treviso or raddichio, leaves separated
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 punnet micro parsley
Place pork, skin-side up, on a baking tray.
Chill uncovered overnight to dry out skin.
Remove pork from fridge 1-2 hours before
cooking and bring to room temperature.
Preheat oven to 110C. Place pork,
skin-side up, on a wire rack set over a
large baking tray. Drizzle with 2 tbs oil and
rub salt akes into the skin. Set aside for
15 minutes to extract excess moisture
from the skin. Place in oven for 30 minutes
to soften. Increase oven to 150C and
cook for 1 hour 20 minutes or until the
esh is cooked through. Reduce oven to
120C. Cook for a further 40 minutes or
until the meat comes away from the bone.
Remove pork from oven and increase
oven to 220C. Cover pork loosely with
foil and set aside for 15 minutes to rest.
Uncover meat and using a clean, dry cloth,
brush off all of the salt. Place rosemary on
the rack, then place pork, skin-side up,
on top. Return to the oven for a further
30 minutes or until skin is golden and crisp.
Toss the fennel, carrot, celery, treviso,
lemon juice and remaining 1/4 cup (60ml)

10g dried instant yeast

1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin
olive oil, plus extra
to serve
31/3 cups (500g) plain our
350g dark grapes, picked
Watercress, to serve
Place 2 cups (500ml) lukewarm water in a
stand mixer tted with the dough hook.
Add yeast, 1 tbs oil and a pinch of salt, and
knead on low speed for 3 minutes or until
yeast has dissolved. Add our and knead
for 15 minutes or until smooth and elastic
(the dough will be quite wet). Transfer to
a greased bowl and cover with a clean tea
towel. Set aside in a warm place for 1 hour
or until doubled in size.
Preheat oven to 180C. Grease a large
baking tray with oil. Press the dough
evenly into tray. Push the grapes into the
dough. Season with salt and drizzle with
remaining 2 tbs oil, then set aside for
10 minutes or until slightly risen. Bake
for 30-35 minutes until dough is golden.
Drizzle foccacia with extra oil and
scatter with salt. Serve with watercress.

ADRIANO ZUMBO

HAZELNUT PANNA COTTA

SERVES 8

1L (4 cups) pure (thin) cream

2 /3 cup (250g) hazelnut paste
1 cup (350g) runny honey
2 vanilla beans, split, seeds scraped
5 titanium-strength gelatine leaves

HAZELNUT PRALINE
3/4 cup (165g) caster sugar
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
1/2 cup (75g) roasted hazelnuts,
chopped

Place cream, hazelnut paste, honey and

vanilla pod and seeds in a saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring
to combine, then remove from heat and
set aside for 30 minutes to infuse.
Soak gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold
water for 5 minutes to soften. Return
cream saucepan to medium heat and
bring mixture to just below boiling point.
Remove pan from heat. Squeeze excess
water from gelatine leaves and add to the
cream mixture, stirring until melted and
combined. Strain through a ne sieve,
then divide among eight 1/2 cup (125ml)
dishes. Cool to room temperature, then
chill for 4 hours or until set.
For praline, line a baking tray with
foil. Place sugar and vanilla seeds in
a non-stick frypan over medium-high
heat. Cook, swirling pan occasionally, for
8 minutes or until a golden caramel. Add
hazelnuts and a pinch of salt and swirl to
combine, then pour over foil. Set praline
aside for30 minutes or until rm and set.
Roughly crush praline, leaving some big
pieces, and serve with panna cottas.

delicious.com.au 67

ITALIAN
JOB
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

FASTER FOOD.
Spaghetti marinara with
white wine and capers;
artichoke, radicchio,
tomato & burrata salad
(recipes p 70).

FASTER FOOD.

IVE TAKEN INSPIRATION FROM ALL

OVER ITALY THIS MONTH, USING
TRADITIONAL MILANESE FLAVOURS
OF VEAL AND SAFFRON FOR MY
TAKE ON A COTOLETTA, TO A FLAKY,
GOLDEN ERBAZZONE, A SPINACH
PIE FROM EMILIA ROMAGNA.
@phoeberosewood

VEAL COTOLETTA WITH SAFFRON

TOMATO & FENNEL SALAD
SERVES 6

500g cherry tomatoes on the vine

cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to shallow-fry
1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar
1/4 tsp saffron threads
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1 cup (100g) dried breadcrumbs
11/2 tsp dried Italian herbs
1/2 cup (75g) plain our, seasoned
2 eggs, lightly beaten
6 x 250g veal cutlets
1 large fennel, shaved on a mandoline
Micro radish and lemon wedges, to serve
1/3

Preheat oven to 200C. Place tomatoes

on a baking paper-lined baking tray and
drizzle with oil and vinegar. Scatter with
saffron and season. Roast for 15 minutes
or until starting to burst. Drain roasting
liquid into a bowl and stir in garlic. Season.
Place the breadcrumbs and herbs in a
bowl and season with salt. Place the our in
a separate bowl. Using a rolling pin, atten
the veal cutlet meat between 2 sheets of
baking paper until 1cm-thick. Coat the
cutlets in our, dip in egg, allowing excess
to drip off, then coat heavily in breadcrumb
mixture. Heat 1cm oil in a heavy-based
frypan over medium-high heat. In two
batches cook the cutlets, turning once,

70 delicious.com.au

Download our enhanced

App for Cook Mode

for 5 minutes each side or until golden

and crisp. Drain on paper towel. Repeat
with remaining cutlets.
Combine roast tomato, fennel and
reserved roasting liquid in a bowl. Serve
salad with veal micro radish and lemon.

ARTICHOKE, RADICCHIO,
TOMATO & BURRATA SALAD
SERVES 4

4 heirloom tomatoes, thickly sliced

1/2 bunch oregano, leaves chopped
1 tbs thyme leaves
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
4 whole marinated artichokes
1 radicchio, torn into leaves
1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar
2 burrata balls
Preheat the oven to 200C and place
tomatoes on a large baking paper-lined
baking tray. Place oregano, thyme, garlic
and oil in a bowl and stir to combine.
Spoon over tomatoes and season. Roast
for 10 minutes or until warm and slightly
soft. Add artichokes and radicchio for the
nal 2 minutes of cooking to warm through.
Arrange vegetables on a plate and
drain oil and herbs into a bowl. Add red
wine vinegar and whisk to combine.
Top vegetables with burrata and
drizzle over dressing to serve.

SPAGHETTI MARINARA WITH

WHITE WINE AND CAPERS
SERVES 4-6

2 tbs olive oil

4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 long red chilli, nely chopped
11/2 cups (375ml) white wine
250g cherry tomatoes
2 tbs capers in brine, rinsed, drained
100g unsalted butter, chopped
1kg mixed seafood (such as prawns, white
sh cut into 2cm pieces and cuttlesh)
2 tbs chopped at-leaf parsley leaves
500g pipis, cleaned
400g spaghetti, cooked according
to packet instructions
Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat.
Cook the garlic and chilli, stirring, for
2-3 minutes until fragrant. Add the wine
and tomatoes, and cook for 10 minutes or
until tomatoes are starting to collapse. Add
capers, then, stirring constantly, add the
butter, 1 piece at a time, making sure each
piece is incorporated before adding the
next. Add mixed seafood and cook for
5-6 minutes until cooked. Remove from the
heat and add parsley. Cover. Keep warm.
Heat a pan with a lid over high heat. Add
1/4 cup (60ml) water and pipis. Cover and
cook, shaking pan, for 2-3 minutes until
pipis open. Add to sauce with pasta. Toss
to combine, then season and serve.

FASTER FOOD.

ERBAZZONE (SPINACH PIE)

SERVES 6

4 slices at pancetta, chopped

2 eschalots, sliced
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 bunch silverbeet, stems removed,
shredded
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley leaves
11/4 cups (100g) grated parmesan,
plus extra nely grated to scatter
400g rm ricotta
2 x 445g sheets frozen Careme Sour
Cream Shortcrust Pastry, thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 tbs water
Lemon wedges, to serve
Preheat oven to 200C. Place the pancetta,
eschalot and garlic in a large frypan over
medium heat. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes
or until soft. Add silverbeet and parsley,
and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until
wilted. Season. Fold through the cheeses,
then remove from heat.
Place one pastry sheet on a baking tray
lined with baking paper. Spread the lling
over the top, leaving a 6cm border. Top
with the second pastry sheet. Trim corners
to make them rounded, then pleat edges
of pastry to seal. Brush with egg and
scatter with extra parmesan. Bake for
35 minutes or until golden and cooked.
Serve pie warm with lemon wedges.

CHICKEN DIAVOLA WITH POLENTA

AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS
SERVES 4

1.4kg whole chicken, halved lengthways,

breasts, thighs and legs scored
1 cup (250ml) white wine
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp dried rosemary
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1/2 bunch oregano, leaves picked
10 zucchini owers with stems attached,
stems thinly sliced, owers torn
Cooked instant polenta (we used
Woolworths Macro), to serve
Preheat oven to 200C. Place chicken,
skin-side up, in a roasting pan and add
wine, oil, rosemary, garlic and oregano.

76 delicious.com.au

Season with salt. Roast for 45-50 minutes

until juices run clear when the thickest part
of the thigh is pierced with a skewer.
Toss zucchini in roasting juices, season
with pepper. Serve chicken, zucchini and
roasting juices over polenta.

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA
SERVES 4
1/2

cup (75g) plain our

2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted, ground
3 eggplants, sliced
1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 cups (500ml) tomato sugo
400g can crushed tomatoes
1 bunch basil, leaves picked
2 buffalo mozzarella balls, sliced
1 cup (80g) nely grated parmesan
Combine our and fennel seeds in a bowl
and season with salt. Add eggplant and
toss to coat. Heat 2 tbs oil in a large frypan
over medium-high heat. In 3 batches, cook
eggplant, turning once, for 10 minutes or
until softened and golden. Repeat with
remaining oil and eggplant.
Preheat the oven to 200C. Place sugo,
tomatoes and half the basil in a saucepan
over medium heat. Stir until warmed
through. Divide half the eggplant slices
and half the sauce among 4 ovenproof
dishes. Top with half the mozzarella, then
remaining eggplant and sauce. Finish with
the remaining mozzarella and parmesan.
Place dishes on a baking tray and bake for
25 minutes or until golden.
Serve warm with remaining basil leaves.

1 bunch cavolo nero, nely shredded

300g baby spinach leaves
150g romano beans, blanched, refreshed
2 cups roughly torn stale bread
Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Add
celery, carrot and onion, and cook, stirring,
for 12 minutes or until soft. Add fennel
seeds, chilli and bay. Stir to coat, then add
tomatoes, stock, parmesan rind, cannellini,
and cavolo nero. Bring to the boil, then
reduce heat to medium-low and simmer
for 25 minutes or until reduced. Season.
Stir in spinach.
Divide romano beans and bread among
serving bowls and ladle over soup. Sprinkle
over parmesan to serve.

TAGLIATELLE WITH SUGO

BUGIARDO (LIAR SAUCE)
SERVES 4-6
1/3

cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

3 celery stalks, nely chopped
1 large carrot, nely chopped
2 onions, nely chopped
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1/2 bunch each rosemary and oregano
leaves, nely chopped
1 bunch sage, leaves nely chopped
2 pork and fennel sausages,
casings removed
2 bacon rashers, thinly sliced
700ml tomato passata (sugo)
1/2 cup (125ml) red wine
400g tagliatelle, cooked according
to packet instructions
Grated parmesan and basil leaves,
to serve

RIBOLLITA WITH ROMANO BEANS

SERVES 4-6

2 tbs extra virgin olive oil

2 celery stalks, nely chopped
1 each carrot and onion, nely chopped
11/2 tsp each fennel seeds and dried
chilli akes
2 bay leaves
400g can whole tomatoes
1L (4 cups) chicken stock
1 parmesan rind, plus
grated parmesan to serve
400g can cannellini beans, rinsed, drained

Heat oil in a large pan over medium heat.

Cook celery, carrot and onion, stirring, for
12 minutes or until softened. Add garlic
and herbs, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes
or until fragrant. Add sausage and bacon,
and cook, breaking up the sausage meat,
for 2 minutes or until lightly browned. Add
passata, wine and 1/2 cup (125ml) water
and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 25 minutes or until thick
and reduced. Season.
Stir cooked pasta through sauce and
serve with parmesan and basil.

GLUTEN
FREE

RICH IN
PROTEIN

VEGAN

WHERE WOULD ITALIAN

SEPTEMBER 2016 | VOTED AUSTRALIAS BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

delicious.
BUON
MAMMA MIA!
Ricotta & cinnamon trifle
with salted amaretto jelly

APPETITO!
OUR GRANDE
ITALIAN ISSUE

RECIPES FROM GUY GROSSI,

GIOVANNI PILU, ADRIANO
ZUMBO, MASSIMO MELE & MORE

FOOD TRAILS

ROME + MILAN + SICILY

SAVE
UP TO

42%
MATT MORAN

JAMIE OLIVER

SILVIA COLLOCA

Ultimate risotto,
minestrone & polenta

Three-cheese
pasta bake

Easy Italian
street food

SUBSCRIBE NOW. VISIT: MAGSONLINE.COM.AU/DEL/M1609DLC,

OR CALL: 1300 656 933, AND QUOTE: M1609DLC

THATS AMORE
Praiseworthy pasta and risotto are the hallmarks of Italian food. All occasion classics
that conjure images of rice spilling over tables, delicious tomato sauces, marble benches
dusted with our and sheets of fresh pasta even Nonna would be proud of. Jamie Oliver
brings the best from his favourite country with staples youll love to make, over and over.
RECIPES & STYLING JODENE JONES

PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA LEE

JAMIE OLIVER.

Risotto with beef

shin and salsa verde
(recipe p 99)

delicious.com.au 95

PASTA DOUGH
300g tipo 00 (super-ne soft Italian
our), substitute plain our,
plus extra to dust
3 large eggs
2 tsp olive oil
Place the our in a large bowl and make
a well in the centre. Beat the eggs and oil
in a separate bowl. Pour into the well and
use a wooden spoon to bring in the our
from around the edges. When it becomes
too hard to stir, our your hands and
knead to form a rm dough. Turn out
onto a lightly oured work surface and
knead for 5-10 minutes until smooth and
elastic. Enclose in plastic wrap and chill
for 30 minutes.

NDUJA, TOMATO & BASIL PENNE

SERVES 4

1 tbs olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 bunch basil, leaves picked,
stalks nely chopped
50g fresh nduja (spicy, spreadable
salami from Italian delis)
2 x 400g cans whole tomatoes
320g dried penne
Grated parmesan, to serve
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan
over medium heat. Add garlic and basil
stalks, and cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes
until light golden. Add the nduja and
fry, breaking up with a wooden spoon,
for 1-2 minutes until golden.

96 delicious.com.au

@jamieoliver
@jamieoliver
Download our enhanced
App for Cook Mode

Add the tomatoes and 400ml water,

breaking up tomatoes with a spoon.
Season, and stir through basil leaves,
reserving a few to garnish. Bring to the
boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer,
stirring occasionally, for 30-40 minutes
until thickened and reduced.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta according
to packet instructions. Drain, reserving
1/2 cup (125ml) cooking liquid. Stir the
pasta and the reserved cooking liquid
through the sauce.
Serve pasta with a drizzle of oil, grated
parmesan and the reserved basil leaves.

FETTUCCINE WITH RABBIT

RAGU AND PANGRATTATO
SERVES 6-8

Make the fettuccine from scratch, as

detailed below, or swap it for a good
quality dried pasta if you want to
spend more time out of the kitchen.
1 quantity pasta dough
(see recipe above)
1/3 cup (50g) plain our
2 x 500g rabbits, jointed
(order from your butcher)

1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

15g unsalted butter
3 eschalots, nely chopped
3 celery stalks,
nely chopped
1 leek, outer leaves removed,
nely chopped
1 garlic bulb, halved
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves and
stalks separated, nely chopped
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
3 bay leaves
2 rosemary sprigs
1/2 bunch thyme
200ml white wine
800ml chicken stock
150g fresh breadcrumbs
Grated parmesan, to serve

Start by making a batch of pasta dough,

then place in the fridge to rest.
Place our in a bowl and season. Add
rabbit, toss to coat and shake off excess.
Heat 1 tbs oil in a large, heavy-based
saucepan over medium heat. In batches,
cook rabbit for 3 minutes each side or
until golden. Remove rabbit from pan and
repeat with remaining pieces. Add butter

JAMIE OLIVER.

EVEN NOW, AFTER SO MANY YEARS

TRAVELLING AROUND ITALY, LEARNING
FROM ITS CHEFS AND READING SO MUCH
ABOUT IT, THE COUNTRY CONTINUES
TO SURPRISE ME. THE SIMPLICITY AND
ACCESSIBILITY OF ITALIAN FOOD, AND THE
EMPHASIS ON FAMILY AND COMFORT IN
EVERYTHING THEY COOK, IS SOMETHING
WE SHOULD ALL EMBRACE A BIT MORE.

Fettuccine with rabbit

ragu and pangrattato.
OPPOSITE: nduja, tomato
& basil penne.

Orecchiette with tuna,

capers and rocket

JAMIE OLIVER.

and swirl pan until melted. Add eschalot,

celery, leek, garlic and parsley stalks.
Cook, stirring, for 10 minutes or until
vegetables are softened and light
golden. Return the rabbit pieces to
the pan, then add half the lemon zest.
Tie the bay leaves, rosemary and thyme
together with a piece of kitchen string
and add to pan. Increase heat to high and
add wine. Bring to the boil, scraping the
bottom of the pan with a spoon, and cook
for 1-2 minutes until reduced by half. Add
the stock, season, then bring to the boil.
Cover surface with a circle of baking paper,
reduce heat to low and gently simmer for
11/2 hours or until sauce has reduced and
meat falls away from the bone.
Remove rabbit from sauce and set
aside to cool. Discard herb bundle and
squeeze garlic esh from one of the
bulb halves into the sauce and stir well,
discarding skin. Discard remaining garlic
bulb. Return pan to low heat, and cook,
stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or
until sauce is reduced.
Once rabbit is cool enough to handle,
shred meat from bones, discarding bones.
Return rabbit to pan. Stir well and cook
for a further 10 minutes or until thickened,
adding a splash of water if needed.
Meanwhile, to prepare pasta dough,
cut dough into four equal pieces, then
enclose 3 portions in plastic wrap and set
aside. Start on the thickest setting of your
pasta machine. Flatten dough with your
hands and run it through the machine
2-3 times, folding it in half each time
until elastic. Keep rolling the pasta
sheet through each setting, dusting
with a little our as you go and reducing
the thickness each time, until 2mm thick.
Place pasta on a our-dusted tray and
cover with a clean tea towel while you
roll the remaining pieces. Working with
one sheet at a time, dust with a little
our, then loosely roll up, leaving a little
unrolled at the end. Cut into rough,
5mm-wide strips, unravelling each strip as
you go. Dust well with our. Wrap strips
into loose bundles until ready to cook.

Heat remaining 1/4 cup (60ml) oil in

a large frypan over medium heat. Add
the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, for
10 minutes or until golden and crisp. Add
remaining lemon zest and stir to combine.
Remove from the heat, add the chopped
parsley leaves and season.
Cook the fettuccine in a saucepan of
boiling salted water for 2-3 minutes until
al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup (250ml)
cooking liquid.
Add pasta and reserved cooking liquid
to the sauce and toss well to coat. Serve
with pangrattato and grated parmesan.

ORECCHIETTE WITH
TUNA, CAPERS AND ROCKET

RISOTTO WITH BEEF SHIN

AND SALSA VERDE
SERVES 8-10

Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

3 carrots, roughly chopped
4 celery stalks, roughly chopped
2 red onions, quartered
1 garlic bulb, halved
2 bay leaves
1 bunch rosemary
2.5kg whole beef shin, bone removed
and reserved (ask your butcher)
1 cup (250ml) red wine
1 tbs olive oil
1/3 cup (50g) plain our
2 cups (500ml) beef stock

SERVES 4
SALSA VERDE
1/2

500g orecchiette
2 tbs olive oil
1/4 cup (75g) baby capers in salt,
rinsed, drained
2 garlic cloves, crushed
185g can tuna in olive oil
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon,
plus lemon wedges to serve
50g rocket leaves

bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves

nely chopped
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
1/2 bunch watercress, nely chopped
1 tbs capers, nely chopped
3 cornichons, nely chopped
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Cook pasta in a saucepan of boiling

salted water according to packet
instructions. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup
(125ml) cooking liquid.
When pasta is almost ready, heat
1 tbs oil in a large frypan over high heat.
Carefully add one-third baby capers and
fry for 2-3 minutes until golden and crisp.
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain
on paper towel.
Return frypan to medium heat and add
remaining 1 tbs olive oil. Add the garlic
and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until
softened. Add the tuna, breaking it up
with a wooden spoon. Stir in the lemon
juice and remaining capers. Season with
black pepper. Add the pasta, reserved
cooking liquid and rocket leaves, and
toss to combine.
Serve orecchiette with fried capers,
lemon zest and lemon wedges.

RISOTTO

1.8L vegetable stock

1 tbs olive oil
2 onions, nely chopped
2 celery stalks, nely chopped
23/4 cups (600g) Arborio rice
200ml white wine
50g unsalted butter
2 /3 cup (50g) nely grated parmesan,
plus extra to serve
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Combine carrot, celery, onion, garlic, bay
and rosemary in a large bowl. Add beef,
reserving bone. Pour in wine and cover
with plastic wrap. Chill, turning once,
for at least 4 hours or overnight.
The next day, preheat oven to 170C.
Heat oil in a large ameproof roasting
pan over medium heat. Remove beef
from the marinade and pat dry with paper

delicious.com.au 99

JAMIE OLIVER.

ZUCCHINIS ARE INCREDIBLE VEGETABLES. WHETHER

STUFFED, SLOW-BRAISED, SHAVED RAW INTO SALADS,
ROASTED OR GRILLED, THEY REALLY ARE A VEG THAT
TAKE ON BOTH BOLD AND DELICATE FLAVOURS. IMPRESS
YOUR FRIENDS WITH THIS GENEROUS PASTA BAKE,
BURSTING WITH FLAVOUR, TEXTURE AND ITALIAN FLAIR.
towel. Season our and scatter over
a large tray. Roll beef in our, shaking
off any excess. Add beef to the hot pan
and cook, turning, for 10 minutes or until
browned on all sides. Add reserved
marinade and beef bone, bring to the
boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer
for 5 minutes or until slightly reduced.
Pour in the beef stock, cover and seal
tightly with a double layer of foil. Roast
for 3-31/2 hours until meat is very tender
and falling apart.
Remove the beef from the roasting
pan, set aside and cover with foil to keep
warm. Place the pan over high heat and
bring liquid to the boil. Reduce the heat
to low and simmer for 20-30 minutes
until thickened. Strain through a sieve
into a small saucepan and keep warm
until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, for the risotto, place the
stock in a saucepan over medium-low
heat. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat
to low and keep warm. Heat oil in a large
non-stick frypan over medium heat. Add
onion and celery, and cook, stirring, for
10 minutes or until softened. Increase
the heat to medium-high and add rice,
stirring, for 1-2 minutes until grains are
coated and toasted. Add wine and bring
to a simmer. Cook, stirring constantly,
for 3 minutes or until wine is absorbed.
Add hot stock, one ladle at a time, stirring
constantly and allowing the stock to be
absorbed before adding the next, until all
stock has been used and rice is al dente
(this will take about 20 minutes). Remove
from heat and add butter and parmesan,
beating with a spoon until creamy.
Season and add lemon juice, then cover
and rest for 1-2 minutes.

100 delicious.com.au

For the salsa verde, place all

ingredients in a bowl and whisk to
combine. Season and set aside.
Divide the risotto among serving
plates, making a small well in the middle.
Shred the beef and divide among risotto,
then pour over the reduced sauce. Spoon
over the salsa verde and serve with the
extra grated parmesan.

THREE-CHEESE ZUCCHINI
PASTA BAKE
SERVES 6-8

1 quantity pasta dough

(see recipe p 96)
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to drizzle
2 onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/2 bunch basil, leaves torn, stalks
nely chopped
8 large zucchini, sliced into 1cm rounds
1L (4 cups) chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup (125g) ricotta
180g fontina cheese, coarsely grated
2 /3 cup (50g) nely grated parmesan,
plus extra to sprinkle
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Green salad, to serve
Start by making a batch of pasta dough,
then place in the fridge to rest.
Heat 1 tbs oil in a large deep casserole
over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic
and basil stalks, then reduce heat to
medium-low and cook, stirring, for
10-12 minutes until very soft and golden.
Heat remaining 1 tbs oil in a separate
large frypan over high heat. In batches,
fry the zucchini, stirring, for 4-5 minutes

until golden and crispy. Transfer to the

casserole. Add basil leaves and stock.
Season, then increase heat to high
and bring to the boil. Reduce heat
to medium-low and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 25 minutes or until
reduced, thickened and zucchini has
broken down. Remove from heat and
add cheeses and lemon juice. Season.
Meanwhile, to prepare pasta dough,
cut dough into four equal pieces, then
enclose 3 portions in plastic wrap and
set aside. Start on the thickest setting
of your pasta machine. Flatten dough
with your hands and run it through the
machine 2-3 times, folding it in half each
time until elastic. Keep rolling the pasta
sheet through each setting, dusting
with a little our as you go and reducing
the thickness each time, until 2mm thick.
Place the pasta on a our-dusted tray and
cover with a clean tea towel while you roll
out the remaining pieces.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease
a 30cm x 25cm roasting pan. Spread a
1cm-thick layer of zucchini mixture over
the base of the pan, then tear over pasta
sheets. Repeat layering until you have
used all the zucchini mixture and pasta,
nishing with a little zucchini mixture.
Sprinkle over lemon zest, extra parmesan
and a little black pepper, then nish with
a drizzle of oil. Bake for 35-40 minutes
until golden and bubbling.
Set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly,
then serve with a green salad.

delicious.com.au/recipes
For more rustic Italian rice
and pasta dishes.

SILVIA COLLOCA.

Silvia Colloca is talking real Italian food. Not your typical pasta
or osso buco, no: the kind of food locals crave and devour behind
piazzas in well-heeled boots and sunglasses. Shes talking slabs
of pizza, paper cones of fried goodness and gelato brioche from
the streets. Its the best part of Italy, and shes brought it home.
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

SILVIA COLLOCA.

ITALIAN FOOD IS A TRULY sensational, bottomless pit of regional recipes. They range
from the robust dishes of the north, showcasing game and poultry served with creamy
polenta, to the opulent offerings of central Italy, the home of the likes of Parmigiana,
lasagne, ravioli and gnocchi, right down to the southern comfort of piquant food, laced
with lashings of extra virgin olive oil and chilli.
Over the years we have been exposed to the many marvels of Italian cuisine, and local
restaurants in Australia build their reputation on how authentic the food is that they serve.
But for those born with the spirit of adventure, there is nothing better than a trip back to
the Bel Paese, the beautiful country, as Italians affectionately refer to Italy. This is where
you can sample the true avour of our culinary world. One travelling tip I always suggest
is to try the local street food. Each region has its very own traditions and unique recipes.
I could not resist including piadina, the classic at bread from Emilia-Romagna, ever
so easy to make (no proving!) and delicious stuffed with cold meats and cheese. And
how to ignore the Neapolitan cuoppo? A paper cone lled with all things deep-fried and
delicious. For my vegetarian friends Ive included panelle, golden chickpea fritters, lovely
on their own or on a panini. And of course, I cannot forget the most quintessential street
foods, pizza al trancio and brioche con gelato. So be inspired and get cooking!

PANELLE (CHICKPEA
FRITTER) BURGERS
SERVES 6

You will need a kitchen thermometer.

12 /3 cups (250g) chickpea (besan) our
Sunower oil, to deep-fry
11/4 cup (100g) nely grated parmesan
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced on a mandoline
1 pear, thinly sliced
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
6 soft long rolls (such as ciabatta)
100g rocket leaves
Place chickpea our and 850ml water in a
saucepan and whisk until smooth. Season,
then place over medium-low heat and
bring to a gentle simmer. Stir with a whisk
for 3-4 minutes until thick and smooth.
Place 1 large piece of baking paper on
a clean work surface. Pour the chickpea
mixture onto baking paper. Cover with
another sheet of baking paper and, using
a rolling pin, smooth out to 1cm thick. Set
aside at room temperature for 30 minutes
to set, then cut into 24 rough triangles.
Half-ll a pan or deep-fryer with oil and
heat to 180C. In 4 batches, deep-fry
panelle, turning once, for 2 minutes or
until crispy and golden. Remove with a
slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
Season and scatter with parmesan.

104 delicious.com.au

@silviascucina

Place fennel, pear, lemon zest and juice

and olive oil in a bowl and toss to coat.
To serve, divide panelle among bread
rolls and top with fennel salad and rocket.

TALEGGIO & BRESAOLA

PIADINA (FLATBREADS)
SERVES 6

2 cups (300g) tipo 00 our (super-ne

soft Italian our), substitute plain our,
plus extra to dust
70g lard, softened
180ml milk
200g Taleggio, sliced into 6 pieces
200g mozzarella, sliced
150g thinly sliced bresaola
1/2 bunch basil, leaves picked
Rocket leaves, to serve
Place the our, lard, milk and 1 tsp salt in
a bowl and stir to combine. Form into a
ball, then transfer the dough to a lightly
oured work surface. Knead for 3 minutes
or until smooth. Cover in plastic wrap and
set aside for 30 minutes to rest.
Cut the dough into 6 pieces, then
roll out on a lightly oured work surface
to 22cm rounds. Place a sheet of baking
paper in between each round to prevent
them from sticking to each other.
Heat a large non-stick frypan over
medium heat. Working with one piadina

Download our enhanced

App for Cook Mode

at a time, cook for 1 minute or until the

surface starts to bubble. Turn and cover
one half of the cooked side with 1 slice
Tallegio, one-sixth mozzarella slices,
4-6 slices bresaola and 1 handful basil.
Fold one-half pastry over lling to form
a half moon and cook for a further
2 minutes or until cheese is melted.
Set aside and keep warm. Repeat with
remaining piadina. Serve with rocket.

NEAPOLITAN CUOPPO (FRIED

VEGETABLES AND SEAFOOD)
WITH ORANGE & THYME SALT
SERVES 4

1 tbs thyme leaves

Finely grated zest of 1 orange
2 tbs salt akes
4 small eggplants, quartered lengthways
1 cup (150g) plain our
2 eggs, lightly beaten
5 cups (500g) breadcrumbs
4 zucchini owers
300g school prawns
8 bocconcini balls
Sunower oil, to deep-fry
Lemon wedges, to serve
To make the salt, combine thyme leaves,
orange zest and salt in a bowl. Set aside.
Place the eggplant in a colander set
over a bowl. Sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and >>

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH

@silviacolloca

Taleggio & bresaola

piadina (flatbreads)

Brioche con gelato

(recipe p 108).
OPPOSITE: Neapolitan
cuoppa (fried vegetables
and seafood) with orange
& thyme salt (recipe p 104).

delicious.com.au 107

WITH THE

MATT MORAN.

Dreams of Italy might include twirling spaghetti or devouring hot pizza, but its not just
our that takes pride of place in Italians hearts and stomachs. Matt Moran explores the
riches of Italian agriculture from creamy polenta to rice and barley. Buon appetito!
PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

MATT MORAN.

Pearl barley minestrone

with basil pesto

This August and September, share a meal with your favourite

people and ask them to donate to Camp Quality. Your get together
can help create a better quality of life for kids living with cancer.

DINEATMINE.ORG.au
1300 730 787

REDUCING WASTE
IS ALWAYS ON THE
AGENDA IN MY
KITCHEN, AS IS
MAKING DESSERT!
THESE RECIPES
COMBINE THE
FRUGALITY OF LA
CUCINA POVERA
AND THE OUTRIGHT
DECADENCE OF THE
MEDICI, WITH BOLD
ITALIAN DESSERTS
CREATED OUT OF
KITCHEN CUPBOARD
BASICS, LEFTOVERS
AND FRUIT THATS
PAST ITS PRIME. NOW
THATS WHAT I CALL
THE SWEET LIFE.
@phoeberosewood
Download our enhanced
App for Cook Mode

122 delicious.com.au

TIRAMISU CHEESECAKE
SERVES 12

Reserve your used coffee grounds

(espresso or plunger) for the base of this
cake. Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
250g chocolate ripple biscuits
2 tbs reserved coffee grounds
100g unsalted butter,
melted, cooled
1 cup (250ml) espresso
145ml Marsala or fortied wine
18 sponge ngers (savoiardi)
5 titanium-strength gelatine leaves
13/4 cup (435ml) pure (thin) cream
11/4 cups (275g) caster sugar
2 tsp vanilla bean paste
750g cream cheese, softened
1kg (4 cups) mascarpone
1 cup (175g) dark chocolate, chopped,
plus extra nely grated, to serve
Cocoa powder, to dust
Grease and line base and sides of a 24cm
springform cake pan with plastic wrap.
Place biscuits in a food processor and whiz
to ne crumbs. Transfer to a bowl with
coffee and butter, and stir to combine.

Press evenly into base of the pan. Place

espresso and 1/2 cup (125ml) Marsala in
a bowl. Dip the sponge ngers in the
espresso mixture one at a time, and place
over the biscuit base, breaking in half
if necessary to t in a single layer. Chill
until needed. Cover and chill remaining
espresso mixture.
Soak gelatine in a bowl of cold water
for 5 minutes to soften. Meanwhile, place
1 cup (250ml) cream and 1 cup (220g) sugar
in a pan over medium-low heat, stirring
until sugar dissolves. Bring to just below
boiling point, then remove from heat.
Squeeze excess water from gelatine,
then stir into cream mixture until melted
and combined. Set aside to cool.
Place vanilla and cream cheese
in a stand mixer tted with the whisk
attachment. Whisk on high until very
smooth. In 3 batches, add the cooled
cream mixture, whisking well between
each addition. Add 600g mascarpone
and remaining 2 tbs Marsala, and whisk
to combine (be careful not to overmix).
Spread cream cheese mixture over the
sponge biscuits and cover surface with
plastic wrap. Chill overnight.

Beachfront
transformation
Sophisticated yet relaxed, the newly revitalised Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas Resort
has undergone an extensive transformation that marries the timeless elegance
of the original property with a fresh modern look throughout the resort.
Two hectares of swimmable lagoon pools, inspired swim-up rooms, new dining venues,
fresh lobby and championship golf all set amidst 147 hectares of tropical gardens perched
beachfront on Four Mile Beach between the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest.
Welcome back to an Australian icon.
For special offers and bookings call 07 4099 5888.
Learn more at sheratonportdouglas.com

*Subject to availability, conditions apply. Price is per room per night based on max two people.
2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

SEE IT FIRST
FROM

279

PER ROOM

SICILIAN ISLAND DREAMS 130 >> 24 HOUR ROMAN HOLIDAY 140

SHANNON BENNETTS MILAN 142 >> LOCAL FLAVOURS IN SHEPPARTON 144

ESCAPE

GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

Almond granita (recipe

p 134). OPPOSITE: the
view over Cefalu Beach
and the Tyrrhenian Sea.

delicious.com.au 131

icily is a unique and

extraordinary tapestry
intricate, vibrant and
brightly coloured in parts, shot through
with exquisite strands of gold and silver;
butworn bare, faded and patched up in
others. Look behind the fabric holding
ittogether and you will see a complex
tangle of thousands of threads that give
itits outward appearance.
When I started researching Sicilian
food, I thought I could unpick these
threads and follow them back to their
source. Then I would be able to say, This
is an Arabic recipe from the west of the
island, this is Greek from the east, Spanish
from the south-east and so on, but it is
not as simple as that. The tapestry is very
tightly woven; it is impossible to undo,
and, in any case, Sicilys culture as well
asits cuisine is the result of all of these
threads knotted together. It is this exotic
mixture of inuences from the East and
West that differentiates the Sicilian
kitchen from the rest of Italy.
Sicily is the market of Italy. Nowhere
else can boast the variety and quality of
natural produce, the best and freshest
sh from clear blue waters, fruits of every
kind ripened in the hot sun, sheep and
goat cheeses from the mountains.
It is a natural paradise, yet over the
years it has been ravaged not only by

some of the cruellest invaders from the

outside but also by the Maa within. The
island has suffered appalling poverty;
theinhabitants learnt to use the free and
readily available ingredients around them.
Depending on where you go in Sicily
you could have vastly differing opinions
of the island. Most tourists will only see
the manicured towns of the baroque
south-east or clean and tidy Taormina,
while others plump for the wild, rugged
and barren coastline of the west where
tourism has hardly left a mark.
Palermo is not like other cities in Italy;
itstill has a gritty, unkempt feel in places
despite its tourist attractions. Thats not
tosay it isnt likeable it is, and there is
plenty to do for a weekend. Just dont
expect the order of Rome or the wealth
ofFlorence. You will have great food,
buzzing markets, fascinating history to
discover, stunning beaches, good-value
accommodation and a real and unique
experience unlike anywhere else.
In my books about the Italian regions,
Ihave always summed up the primary
local ingredients in my introductions:
in Amal it was rst catch your sh, in
Venice grind your spices in your mortar
and pestle, in Rome it was grow your chilli
and rosemary, and now in Sicily my advice
would be to pick your oranges and buy
your ricotta rst.

This is an edited
extract from Sicily
by Katie and
Giancarlo Caldesi
(Hardie Grant,
RRP$39.99)
available in stores
nationally from
October 1, 2016.
@caldesi_in_campagna
@lacucinacaldesi @katiecaldesi

GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

Assemble the melon pieces on

a large platter or individual plates.
Finely grate the zest of one of the
oranges and set aside. On a board and
using a sharp knife, peel and cut away
the pith from both oranges. Cut out the
segments from between the membrane
and let them fall on to the melon.
Scatter the remaining ingredients
over the melon and orange to serve.

SARDINE PATTIES
MAKES 35

MELON, ORANGE
& WALNUT SALAD
SERVES 6

Almost any melon will work for this recipe.

1 melon (about 1.5kg),
peeled, seeds removed,
cut into 2cm thick wedges
2 oranges
Handful mint leaves
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
Handful walnuts, roughly crushed
in a pestle and mortar
Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
2 tsp pink peppercorns,
roughly crushed

15 small sardine llets (approximately

480g) or 4 x 120g cans sardines
1 small onion, grated
11/4 cups (100g) fresh gluten-free
orwheat breadcrumbs
2 tbs currants or raisins
1/4 cup (40g) pine nuts
Large handful mint leaves,
nely chopped
Large handful at-leaf parsley leaves,
nely chopped
1 heaped tsp salt and a good twist
offreshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup (60ml) white wine
or sweet Marsala
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
Sunower oil, to fry
Cut the esh of the fresh sardines into
small pieces no bigger than 5mm,
discarding the spines and heads. If using
canned, drain and roughly mash with a
fork. Combine the sardines with the rest
of the ingredients, except sunower oil.
Test the avour of the patties by making
just one to begin with. Form the mixture
into a ball in your hands, approximately
3cm diameter. Heat sunower oil in a
frypan over medium heat. Flatten patty
slightly and fry, turning halfway, for
8-10 minutes until golden and cooked
through. Taste and adjust the seasoning
of the remaining mixture as necessary.
Roll remaining mixture into 3cm balls,
then in batches, cook remaining patties
until golden and cooked through.

delicious.com.au133

RICOTTA CAKE
SERVES 8

Unsalted butter, to grease

5 eggs, separated
2 /3 cup (150g) caster sugar
1/2 cup (75g) potato our or cornour
1/2 cup (75g) tipo 00 our (super-ne
soft Italian our), substitute plain our
Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
1/3 cup (80ml) Marsala or sweet wine
25g dark (70%) chocolate, chopped
FILLING

750g ricotta
2 /3 cup (150g) caster sugar
1 tsp orange zest
90ml Marsala
COATING

100ml thickened cream

250g ricotta
1 tbs honey or caster sugar
200g toasted aked almonds,
hazelnuts or pistachios
25g dark (70%) chocolate,
coarsely grated
25g pure icing sugar

136 delicious.com.au

Preheat the oven to 170C and grease

and our a 23cm cake pan.
Whisk the eggwhites to soft peaks with
a pinch of salt. Slowly pour in 100g sugar
and whisk to stiff peaks. Whisk the yolks
with remaining sugar in a separate bowl
until pale and creamy. Then use a spatula
to fold the two together.
Sift the two ours, add lemon zest and
fold into the egg mixture. Pour into the
prepared pan and cook for 30-35 minutes
until a skewer inserted into the centre
comes out clean. When cooked, remove
from the pan and allow to cool on a rack.
Meanwhile, make the lling by draining
the ricotta and mixing all ingredients in
a bowl. Set aside.
Carefully cut a 1cm-thick layer from the
top of the cake and set aside. Next cut a
2cm-thick layer, leaving you with a layer
that is 1cm thick. Return one of the 1cm
layers, cut-side up, to the cake pan. Next,
cut a circle out of the middle of the thicker
2cm-layer so that you are left with a ring
of cake that is 2cm-wide border this will
make the border around the hole for the
lling. Return border back to the pan. Eat
the centre as a cooks treat!

Combine Marsala and 25ml water

in a bowl and brush two-thirds over
the surface of the sponge.
Fill hole with the ricotta lling mixture
and smooth over with a palette knife.
Melt the chocolate briey in a
heatproof bowl set over a saucepan
of boiling water (dont let bowl touch
water). Using a palette knife, spread the
melted chocolate over the nal layer of
sponge cake sponge. Invert and press
down lightly over the lling. Brush over
the remaining syrup. Leave the cake to
rest in the fridge for at least 6 hours
or up to a day. Turn out of the mould.
To make the coating, whip the cream
to form soft peaks, then fold in the ricotta
and honey. Using a palette knife, spread
the coating evenly over the outside of the
cake. Finish the coating with a sprinkling
of nuts, grated chocolate and icing sugar.
Chill in the fridge for a minimum of 1hour
or up to 1 day before serving.

delicious.com.au/travel
For more international guides.

AGENDA.

ON THE AGENDA
Treat yourself to the latest lust-have products, technologies and ideas from
our advertisers, from new kicks and chocolate moulds to a stylish dinner set.

table talk

blue steel

Host a dinner party in style

with the Marble Look Dinner Set
from S&P. This elegant porcelain
set turns every weeknight meal
into something special. Pair with
copper cutlery for extra glam.
Available at Harvey Norman.
Visit: harveynorman.com.au.

Up your game in the kitchen

with Solidteknics cookware.
The 100% Australian-made
pans are built with sustainable
iron and are pre-seasoned for
a natural non-stick surface,
meaning theyre built to last a
lifetime. Visit: solidteknics.com.

go pro

next step

Cook like a pro with the

Le Creuset Professional Hard
Anodised range. Combining
the best of their stainless steel
and non-stick ranges these
pans are ideal for anything from
pot-roast chook to tarte Tatin.
Visit: lecreuset.com.au.

Put your best foot forward

in the Summer 2016 Collection
by Ara Shoes. Hi-tech meets
comfort with butter-soft leather
and stylish metallics, the
perfect way to keep it snazzy
and comfortable in the
kitchen. Visit: ara-anz.com.

bake star

hot stuff

From icing nozzles to chocolate

moulds, the Cookie Cutter
Shop has it all. With 1,800
accessories to choose from, like
this chocolate mould by Petit
Poesie, youll never be short of
ideas for your next bake-off.
Visit: cookiecuttershop.com.au.

Turn up the heat in the kitchen

with a new series built-in ILVE
oven. The oven features a
cool-touch bio-safe triple-glazed
door, protecting little ngers
from the hot glass. Perfect
for a family Sunday lunch.
Visit: ILVE.com.au.

all dressed up

top notch

Dress up any dish with a drizzle

of Kewpie Roasted Sesame
Salad Dressing. With its creamy
texture, this dressing will add
another element of avour to
noodle dishes or grilled meats.
Try it as a dipping sauce for
tonkatsu. Visit: oriental.com.au.

Keep food fresh with the new

Miele vacuum-sealing drawers.
Using restaurant quality
processes, these drawers make
sous-vide cooking at home a
breeze. Plus, youll never have
a stale packet of chips again.
Visit: miele.com.au.

delicious.com.au 137

CHECK IN

What visit to Italy is complete without

a stay at a restored 16th century former
fortress? Perched among 60-hectares
of olives groves, new boutique hotel MASSERIA
TRAPANA (left), just outside Lecce, Puglia,
features nine luxurious suites complete with
private outdoor baths, access to exclusive
beach clubs on the nearby Adriatic, and
chef Maria Carlas beautiful cucina povera
menu using homegrown produce from the
garden and surrounding region. trapana.com

Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials & everything in transit.

ART ATTACK Brisbanes boutique hotel scene

Notoriously pricey London has a new

crown jewel with the very affordable
citizenM Tower of London Hotel (above).
Complete with cool-Brit tout, bright modern
rooms, top-oor bar, glorious views to London
Bridge and central location, you may soon
be calling London home. citizenM.com

has a new addition! The Johnson, part of the hugely

popular Art Series Hotel Group has landed in Spring
Hill with luxe decor and abstract art from Australian
artist Michael Johnson. artserieshotels.com.au/johnson

On the right trackguide

138 delicious.com.au

ITALIAN STYLE
Zipping around Rome on your
Vespa la Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn
in Roman Holiday just got a whole lot more chic
with these aviator-style sunglasses with wooden
accents from the king of Italiano fashion, Giorgio
Armani ($460) sunglasshut.com.au Spring has
well and truly sprung with the newest eau de
parfum in the Les Infusions de Prada range,
Mimosa. The bright scent of yellow mimosa
blossoms, infused with hints of star anise,
mandarin and rose will have you swooning.
$175 (100ml) from David Jones and Myer.
DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more
travel news from Australia and around the world.

WORDS HEIDI FINNANE & MELODY LORD

Elegant Art Deco furnishings in livery of

gold and blue recall a bygone era of slow
journeys in the new bar car, 3674 (right),
on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express,
which is bringing back the golden age
of European travel. Dressing for drinks
before dinner in pearl earrings and silk
neckwear wont seem out of place as you
imbibe head barman Walter Nisis classic
cocktails, paired with an innovative menu
based on Petrossian caviar. Afterwards,
swan down to one of the dining cars to
enjoy a Michelin-standard meal as the
ever-changing European landscape slips
by the windows. Journeys run between
March and November. belmond.com

TUSCAN ESCAPE

INSIDER.

24 hours in

CULTURE CLUB

ROME

Rome wasnt built in a day, but if thats all the

time you have in The Eternal City, fear not,
Kate Gibbs packs in a slice of history, with
a generous side of pasta and gelato to boot.

BREAKFAST OF GLADIATORS

@kategibbs

DIY BITES

EYE FOR TRADITION

BATHING BEAUTY

GET OUT OF TOWN

SWEET STROLL

140 delicious.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHE FAUGERE

NONNAS WAY

LA MODA MILANO
Shannon Bennett navigates the streets of fashionable Milan, giving
himself just one day to nd the quintessential Milanese meal.

THIN VEAL, PERFECTLY COATED IN

BREADCRUMBS AND FRIED IN NUTTY
GOLDEN BUTTER: THIS STYLE OF LESS IS
MORE COOKING IS SO SATISFYING.
seriously; indulging in some ultimate grocery shopping at Peck, which is also great for
lunch or a snack; and, although there are trendier hotels, staying at the Hotel Principe di
Savoia, which oozes style and history. But thats about all I have time for before dinner.
So. To the cotoletta. Damm-atr is located in the Navigli district, and is a tiny ristorante
with seats spilling onto the street. I arrive at 9pm and the area is pumping: its a cold
April night for Milano, but thats not stopping anyone, with standing room only on the
street. At the door, Im greeted with warmth and quickly seated at a corner table; no
menu needed, I ask for a cotoletto. The presentation is perfect: thin veal, coated in
breadcrumbs and fried in nutty golden butter served alongside pan-fried new
potatoes seasoned with herbs and a generous amount of crunchy salt, with a tomato
and oregano salad and a large wedge of lemon this less is more cooking is so
satisfying, especially washed down with the dolcetto I had blindly ordered. Milan needs
to stick up for this style of cooking, alienating the need to modify what is already great.
@chefbennett23

142delicious.com.au

Download our enhanced

App for Cook Mode

Share your travel snaps

with us @deliciousAUS

VEAL MILANESE
SERVES 2

2 x 250g veal cutlets

1/3 cup (50g) plain our
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup (100g) dried breadcrumbs
1 cup (250ml) extra virgin olive oil
60g unsalted butter
12 small kiper potatoes, steamed
orboiled
1 bunch wild rocket leaves
Lemon wedges, to serve
Using a rolling pin, atten the veal meat
between two sheets of baking paper
until 5mm-thick.
Place our, egg and breadcrumbs
in three separate bowls. Working with
1 piece of veal at a time, coat in our, dip
in egg, allowing any excess to drip off,
then coat in breadcrumbs. Set aside on
a tray. Repeat with remaining cutlet.
Heat 1/2 cup (125ml) oil in a frypan over
medium heat. Working with one cutlet a
time, cook for 3-4minutes each side until
golden and crisp. Set aside and keep
warm. Wipe pan clean and repeat with
remaining 1/2 cup (125ml) oil and cutlet.
Drain oil from pan and wipe clean with
paper towel.
Return pan to medium heat and add
the butter, swirling the pan until melted.
Halve the steamed potatoes, then add
to the pan and cook, turning regularly,
for 10minutes or until golden. Remove
from heat and season well.
Serve the veal Milanese topped with
potatoes, rocket and with lemon wedges
on the side to squeeze over.

delicious.com.au/recipes
For more recipes inspired
by Italian cities.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BENITO MARTIN STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY CLAUDIO ARNESE, INGOLF POMPE/LOOK-FOTO

I AM ON IT. On what? you may ask. Well, the quest to find the one meal that typifies
Milan on a plate. 24 hours should do it.
Such a short amount of time in the fashion capital of Italy wont be easy, with such
a selection of dishes deep-rooted in local culture such as risotto Milanese (laced with
butter, saffron and usually melting bone marrow), minestrone (try the one at Refettorio
Simplicitas in the via dellOrso, which is reputed to be the citys simplest and the best),
or michetta (bulging white bread) with salumi and ham (I recommend the version at
Taglio). For me, however, the star of the show is the cotoletta or veal Milanese. As a
teenager I once had a meal at a family friends house of thin crispy veal topped with
garlic-marinated cherry tomatoes grown in the backyard. It was so simple, yet so complex.
Some Miele colleagues with me in Milan at the annual design week, believe I can top this
memory by visiting a not-so-easy-to-find restaurant called Damm-atr. And Im off.
Before I start, I have to mention that no meal inItaly is complete without a pre-dinner
drink. Step forward aperitivo. Around these parts, a drink must include Campari to even
be considered for consumption, so on the way I stop in at Bar Basso, very proudly at the
forefront of Milanese tradition as the birthplace of the Negroni sbagliato (wrong Negroni)
in which gin is replaced with prosecco. Bar Basso is a great stop any time of the day, and
is mostly full of local professionals with the odd out-of-towner. Iknow I am really in Milano
in this poky, slightly daggy space, bursting with atmosphere. Regrets seep in as I am
sipping that I should have allowed more time to satisfy my curiosity about Milan and I feel
guilty that Ive often bypassed the city for more scenic spots. This time I tried to pack in as
much as possible, trying world-renowned Nottingham Forest bar, which takes its cocktails

CLOCKWISE (from
above): restaurants
and bars line a canal
in the bustling Navigli
quarter of the city;
veal Milanese; Bar
Basso, where legend
has it that a tired
bartender accidentally
created the Negroni
sbagliato by adding
prosecco instead of
gin to a Negroni
cocktail; the historic
Hotel Principe
di Savoia; Bar
Bassos streetfront.

LOCAVORE.

With its mix of olive groves, wineries, cheesemakers and waterways, Shepparton, in Victorias
Goulburn Valley, is a region to visit for a slice of the good life. Food writer Sarah Gamboni grills
local chef John Marsden for his picks, with a few Italian accents along the way.
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER

delicious.com.au145

BAG
A BARGAIN
Held on the 3rd Sunday of each
month, Mooroopna Farmers Market
(Ferrari Park, Mooroopna) offers seasonal
fruit and veg, Angus beef, free-range eggs,
olive oils, jams and breads. Marsden also
recommends Finer Fruit (35 Vaughan St,
Shepparton), where local produce is handily
labelled. For fans of cans, theres the
SPC Ardmona Factory (197 Corio St,
Shepparton), brimming with locally
grown tinned tomatoes,
fruits and sauces.

3 BUBBLES
OR NOTHING
PRODUCERS HAVE FOUND
NOVEL WAYS TO USE THE
REGIONS APPLES AND PEARS.
AT THE CHEEKY GROG CO.
(5160 BARMAH-SHEPPARTON
RD, BUNBARTHA), MARK AND
JENNY MOREY HAVE TURNED
THEIR HANDS TO CIDER. THEY
USE INTERESTING FRUITS LIKE
MANCHURIAN CRABAPPLES
OR PACKHAM PEARS, WHICH
PRODUCE A BEAUTIFUL PINK
CIDER, SAYS MARSDEN.
THEYRE ALSO POURING THE
BIN 27, WHICH THEY MADE
WHEN THEIR BOTTLING LINE
BROKE DOWN, SO IT SAT FOR
SIX WEEKS AND DEVELOPED
SOME REALLY INTERESTING
CHARACTERS. SAMPLE THEIR
DROPS AT THE CELLAR DOOR,
WHERE THEYVE BUILT AN
ALFRESCO AREA WITH OLD
FRUIT BINS (ABOVE).

ON THE GRAPEVINE

At Longleat Estate (105 Old Weir Rd, Murchison), Guido

Vazzoler makes food-friendly wines, including a smooth
amarone, while wife Sandra crafts Italian-style cheeses.
You can go on the weekend and have a cheese plate while you
try their wines, says Marsden. He also tips Tallis Wine (195 Major
Plains Rd, Dookie pictured). Its a fantastic place. Its on the top
of the hill with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a patchwork
of canola fields and red soil. Here, enjoy a glass of red with a local
cheese platter, or a botrytis riesling with some homemade cake,
then follow the interpretive walking track for jaw-dropping views.

SCENE
7 THE GRETEONSURROUNDING
OKS
S
MARSDENNLDOS FOR INSPIRATION.EA
G
FARMLA OU USE FRUIT AND V . LIN
EJA
LONG AS Y
Y, HE SAYOSXES OF
T
N
E
L
P
S
E
R
E
H
IN B
SEASON, TP
UCE BRINGESA PLAY WITH.
D
O
R
IC
N
A
AV
ORG
T OF
R US TO HU
T FOR A LO
PRODUCEYFO
B
,
IT
E
S
U
SAY
D
O
T
N
IM HAPP EYD SEE A BLEMISH AAS ALSO
PEOPLE THT RIGHT. MARSDEN HTOMATO
THATS NO DEAL WITH A LOCAL RUIT FOR
STRUCK A HO SWAPS EXCESS F T THE
S. A
FARMER, W
NT VOUCH,EHRELL ROCK UP
RESTAURA
HE SEASOHNWE TURN INTO
HEIGHT OF0TK
, WHIC SAYS MARSDEN.
WITH 40 D G
CHUTNEY,
PASSATA AN

8
SOURDOUGH CULTURE
Third-generation baker Mathew Higgins is Marsdens go-to man when
it comes to good bread. Mats one of the only people in town making
genuine sourdough using traditional methods, as well as an awesome
ciabatta says Marsden. Call into Higgins Bakery (121 Wyndham St,
Shepparton) for freshly baked loaves, buttery croissants (above) and
hand-shaped bagels, plus classic pies, sausage rolls and slices.

(above), food miles become

metres when they make their
(Central Mundoona Rd,
Wunghnu). Their 150-hectare
farm is home to 180 Friesian
and Jersey cows, whose rich,
buttery milk is turned into the
camembert-style Wunghnu Soft,
brie-inspired Kaarimba Soft,
Stilton-esque Bruces Blue,
Italian-accented Tarrill, crumbly
Kulindi, smooth feta and the
indulgent Triple Cream (winner
of a 2015 delicious. Produce
Award). Get your fromage x
at the farm gate from 10am to
5pm, Wednesday to Sunday.
delicious.com.au 149

LOCAVORE.

10

A SLICE OF SICILY

Thanks to those pioneering immigrants,

the Goulburn Valley has long had an
Italian accent. Today, you can get a taste
of that vibrant food culture at Little Lipari (143 Maude St,
Shepparton), Joe and Claire Di Stefanos Sicilian eatery.
Its a great little cafe doing home-style food and
fantastic coffee, says Marsden. Joe and Claire are lovely
people, and its a very friendly, warm atmosphere. Stop
by for a slice of Sicilian apple cake or house-made gnocchi.

150 delicious.com.au

12

it takes a brave man to take

chicken chow mein off the
local Chinese eatery menu,
but thats what Brian
Anderson did when he took
over the pans at his mums
retro-fabulous restaurant
(77 McLennan
St, Mooroopna). Today,
Anderson draws on his
Singaporean heritage and
time at Melbournes Verge
to craft cutting-edge Asian.
Standouts include pork
belly bao, prawn toast
with sea urchin bechamel
and ginger doughnuts
with orange marmalade
ice cream (above).
delicious.com.au/travel
For more Locavore features
from around Australia.

gourmet lifestyle
Supplying live snails to
restaurants and the home
chef who want beautiful
fresh produce
Established

in 2008, now
Australias
largest
snail farm

C E L E B R AT I N G

Italian Month
*

FREE

SYDNEY METRO
DELIVERY FOR THE
MONTH OF SEPTEMBER
*min. spend $80 see website for full details

SYDNEYS BEST
FRESH PASTA

www.glasshousegourmetsnails.com.au
/Glasshouse-Gourmet-Snails
Ph: 07 5493 0890

NOW available straight

to your door!

www.pastaitalia.com.au

TRUFFLE
HUNTING

IN ABRUZZO
Join Luciana to nd
summer, prized
black and white
trufes in Abruzzo.
Private tours
Small groups
Food & wine
History & Art

www.stellamayfinefoods.com.au

www.touringabruzzo.com
tel: (07) 3102 4384

To advertise call 1300 139 305

gourmet lifestyle

SKI ITALY
DOLOMITES MOUNTAINS
Worlds best-kept skiing secret!

highly awarded blue cheese specialist

info@berryscreekcheese.com 0429 623 409

www.berryscreekcheese.com
/berryscreekcheese

Uncovering the hidden

delights of Italy...together

www.italiandelights.com.au
P: 03 9018 6624

seriously yummy!
seriously good!

www.doodlescreek.com

SOLIDTEKNICS: the only production cookware made in Australia.

Acclaimed by top chefs. Exported. AUS-ION formed-iron pans cook
and season just like cast iron, but are half the weight. Easily build your
own healthy, non-toxic, forever-renewable nonstick seasoning, just like
the best chefs, instead of regularly replacing imported disposable
synthetic-coated nonstick.This patent-pending seamless one-piece iron is
so tough it comes with a multi-century warranty. solidteknics.com

To advertise call 1300 139 305

www.riikoceramics.com.au

WWW.UNDERTHEPICKLETREE.COM.AU

TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS
PUDDINGS MADE WITH SUET

www.silverpennypuddings.com

RECIPE INDEX & DIRECTORY.

RECIPE INDEX
SEPTEMBER 2016

STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS

Artichoke & cont cherry
tomato bruschetta (v)............................ 114
Artichoke, radicchio, tomato
& burrata salad (v)................................... 70
Barbecued pancetta & sage quail
with farro salad........................................ 62
Beef tartare with bottarga mayonnaise...... 24
Creamy polenta with wild mushrooms
and thyme (v) ........................................ 116
Eggplant caponata salad (v) ....................... 82
Fennel & radicchio salad with
parmesan crisps ...................................... 84
Fettucine with mushroom, trufe
and egg yolk ........................................... 62
Harrys bar sandwiches ............................... 90
Italian tuna & bean salad with pistachio..... 82
Melon, orange & walnut salad (v)............. 133
Neapolitan cuoppo (fried vegetables and
seafood) with orange & thyme salt ...... 104
Polenta-crusted sardines
with salsa verde....................................... 62
Roasted kale, quick ricotta
& tomato salad ....................................... 82
Salt-baked beetroot with sesame
and goats cheese (v) .............................. 64
Sardine patties .......................................... 133
Schiacciata alluva (focaccia
with grapes) (v)........................................ 67
Snapper crudo with celery, asparagus
and green olive....................................... 84
Taleggio & bresaola piadina (atbreads).. 104
MAINS
Asparagus & Taleggio risotto ..................... 24
Broad bean, crab & mint risotto............... 116
Chicken diavola with polenta
and zucchini owers................................ 76

Eggplant parmigiana (v) ............................. 76

Erbazzone (spinach pie) .............................. 76
Fettuccine with rabbit ragu
and pangrattato...................................... 96
Nduja, tomato & basil penne ..................... 96
Nettle spaghetti cacio e pepe
with guanciale......................................... 24
One-pan puttanesca pasta ......................... 89
Orecchiette with tuna, capers and rocket .. 99
Panelle (chickpea friter) burgers (v) .......... 104
Pearl barley minestrone with basil pesto . 114
Pizza al trancio with stracchino ................. 108
Porcetto arrosto con pinzimonio
(roasted suckling pig with crudites)........ 67
Pork meatball saltimbocca ......................... 40
Ribollita with romano beans ....................... 76
Ricotta & kale cannelloni (v)........................ 90
Ricotta gnocchi with
pistachio pesto (v)................................... 89
Risotto with beef shin and salsa verde ....... 99
Roast lamb rack with fregola
& capsicum salad.................................. 116
Sicilian pizza .............................................. 134
Spaghetti marinara with
white wine and capers............................ 70
Tagliatelle with sugo bugiardo
(liar sauce) ............................................... 76
Three-cheese zucchini pasta bake ........... 100
Veal cotoletta with saffron tomato
& fennel salad ......................................... 70
Veal Milanese............................................ 142
SWEET THINGS
Almond granita ......................................... 134
Almond nougat........................................... 27
Blood orange cake ..................................... 42
Bomboloni with Nutella
and hazelnut sugar ............................... 124

Brioche con gelato.................................... 108

Campari & white chocolate cannoli ......... 124
Hazelnut panna cotta.................................. 67
Lemon tiramisu ........................................... 92
Pear & hazelnut torta caprese .................. 124
Pistachio & fennel amaretti morbidi......... 127
Ricotta & strawberry jam crostata............. 126
Ricotta cake............................................... 136
Ricotta & cinnamon trie
with salted amaretto jelly...................... 126
Sweet custard arancini................................ 44
Tiramisu cheesecake................................. 122
DRINKS & EXTRAS
Almond milk.............................................. 134
Pasta dough (v) ........................................... 96
(v) denotes vegetarian recipe

DIRECTORY

Alexandria Tiles, (02) 9693 2626

alexandriatiles.com.au
Beans and Jazz, (02) 9332 1810
beansandjazz.com.au
Country Road, 1800 801 911
countryroad.com.au
Lara Z Ceramics
larazyoga.com/ceramics
Tiles by Kate, (02) 9949 4300

CORRECTION:

The Glem Freestanding Cooker (product

code GP122EI), advertised at $1699 on
p 5 of the Harvey Norman Pride & Produce
magazine concept, featured in the following
Newslifemedia publications: Donna Hay Aug/
Sep edition, Delicious August edition, Inside
Out August Edition and Country Style August
edition, all on sale during July 2016, has been
incorrectly Priced @ $1699 This model is
priced at $16999. Offer ends 31/08/2016

OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIERS: Our meat is supplied by Vics Meat (vicsmeat.com.au). We use Wusthof knives (for stockists, tel: 1800 099 266).
PRIVACY NOTICE NewsLifeMedia collects your personal information to assist us in providing the goods or services you have requested, to process your
competition entries and to improve our products and services. We or any of our Australian related companies may be in touch by any means (including email or
SMS) at any time to let you know about goods, services or promotions that may be of interest to you. We may also share your information with other persons or
entities who assist us in providing our services, running competitions or with other companies who provide prizes for our competitions or reader offers. This
company is part of a global media and entertainment company. We would like to share your information with these overseas-related companies so that they can
contact you with special offers. If you would prefer us not to, please contact our privacy officer at privacy@newslifemedia.com.au or write to Locked Bag 5030,
Alexandria, NSW 2015. You can gain access to your personal information by contacting our privacy officer.

delicious.com.au 153

INNOVATORS.

THE GOOD OIL

IVE FORMED QUITE an intimate relationship
with food. By intimate I mean indulgent. I may
wobble more than panna cotta, but even yours truly
can feel sexy at times thanks to food. Wait, did I just admit
to feeling sexy? Anyway, oysters are aphrodisiacal. Chocolate
kickstarts our carnal core, and cherries, well, eventually they get
popped. Now, I dont want to get all 91/2 Weeks on yall, but
a friend of mine was once left high and dry and succumbed to
using olive oil as, ermm Ahem. Well, I guess olive oil does
have a naturally high heat point.
Im standing in front of tonnes of freshly picked olives in South
Australias McLaren Vale when Primo Estate and Joseph olive oil
owner Joe Grilli says, It only takes two seconds with a vibrator.
Wait. What?
Its not efcient to hand-pick the olives, he adds. The
vibrating machine shakes the tree and 20-30kg of olives thud
to earth, he conrms. Oh, phew! Its so effective that just ve
per cent stay on the tree.
Before we arrived the vines of Grillis wine estate had undergone
their winter Brazilian. Stripped bare and left in their naked glory,
they were in stark contrast to the abundance of fruit in the olive
groves. June marks the new harvest and the Joseph Extra Virgin
Olive Oil is one of the most spectacular produced down under.
For the rst few years of production Grilli scrounged with
friends and relatives, essentially foraging wild olives on the side of
the road. Theyd stop the old one-tonne Holden ute and load it up.
Nowadays he buys olives from groves in Willunga to McLaren
Vale and the Adelaide Hills Italian varieties such as frantoio,
leccino, pendolino, coratina and the Greek koroneiki all planted
during the nineties.
No-one knew the best varieties and best places 30 years
ago, but this place is heaven for olives, says Grilli. He grabs
a bunch offrantoia and squeezes one to reveal its inner esh.

They look black, but its early in the season and theyre
starting to go red and softening. Initially that is green in here,
he says. To get that green oil, tone and pepperiness you have
to pick olives that are half green and half red.
When olives are too green theyre pretty much chlorophyll,
when too ripe the oil will be atter with barely any polyphenols.
The Joseph olive oil relies on olives picked at the point of
hesitation between green and ripe, when oil is rich but the avour
still embodies the interesting characteristics from unripened fruit.
Olives from the at tablelands are fruity, soft and round with
light pepperiness, but the moment you come up here to Mount
Compass you get that green cut-grass note: a lovely spiciness.
The olives grow unattended as nature would have it. There are
no pests or diseases that require spraying like most in Europe.
We can get that famous Tuscany tone, but ours are fruitier.
Without the shackles of tradition our producers are delivering
oils with a real edge and the world is taking note.
Olives are processed within eight hours of picking. A blower
removes leaves, a sieve any stones and a washer any residual dirt.
Its basically a giant spa bath, smiles Grilli.
The mix goes into a crusher. Lumps of steel force the pips and
esh through a mesh screen. Its so noisy I can barely hear him talk.
Theyre pumped into a relaxation chamber? I ask.
No, malaxation chamber, he laughs. Although they do get
treated well. The paste is gently kneaded and heated to break
down cellulose and extract the oil. Its separated into oil, water
and solids. Wastewater evaporates and solids are turned into
sheep feed. The oil then receives a nal polish.
The avour prole varies from year to year; its signicantly
seasonal, though the approach and attention to detail is consistent.
The 2016 rst-run EVOO is the 27th vintage of The Joseph. Its
olive green, cloudy, peppery and wonderfully vibrant. Its an oil
Neil Perry has been pouring at his restaurants since 1989, and one
that Simon Johnson has been retailing since it rst graced his lips.
Olive oil may have become the kitchen lubricant of the masses,
but the Joseph is an archetypal example of why oils aint oils.
@anthuckstep

154 delicious.com.au

@huckstergram

PHOTOGRAPHY BENITO MARTIN STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Out in the Adelaide hinterland olives grow au naturel, developing fruity and
complex avours. Anthony Huckstep gets all hot and bothered as he learns
about the processes of olive oil extraction.

SEPTEMBER 2016 | VOTED AUSTRALIAS BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

delicious.
BUON
MAMMA MIA!
Ricotta & cinnamon trifle
with salted amaretto jelly

APPETITO!
OUR GRANDE
ITALIAN ISSUE

RECIPES FROM GUY GROSSI,

GIOVANNI PILU, ADRIANO
ZUMBO, MASSIMO MELE & MORE

FOOD TRAILS

ROME + MILAN + SICILY

SAVE
UP TO

42%
MATT MORAN

JAMIE OLIVER

SILVIA COLLOCA

Ultimate risotto,
minestrone & polenta

Three-cheese
pasta bake

Easy Italian
street food

SUBSCRIBE NOW. VISIT: MAGSONLINE.COM.AU/DEL/M1609DLC,

OR CALL: 1300 656 933, AND QUOTE: M1609DLC