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I have recently learned Embroideries belonging to the Five States of India called Chikankari,
Kashidakari, Phulkari, Kantha and Rabari. Their samples are below.
The history of Chikan work is not definite and different people have different assumptions and
beliefs regarding the same. According to Megasthenes, the Greek traveler, the art of Chikankari
started in East Bengal (now Bangla Desh) in 3rd century. He also mentions Chikan, which refers to
floral prints on fine muslin clothes. Shadow Work is known as Chikankari Work it is done on
Organdy, Muslin and Nowadays on Chiffon and Georgette as well.
I have done Shadow work on an Organdy fabric. The Stitch used is universally known as
"Herringbone Stitch".
Lucknowi Chikankari
The Kashmiri jaal work is quite popular. It takes months to complete thread work on one shawl,
stole or bedspread. Artisans stitch decorative motifs of birds, maple leaves, and other decorative
designs. The most popular form of thread work is the chain stitch that is done on shawls and
clothes.
I have done Kashidakari on Cotton Fabric by using Chain Stitch.
Kantha embroidery is a popular type of craft created in the Bengal region of India. It has always
been popular amongst rural women who keep the tradition of this special craft alive. Kantha Work
is done by Using "Running Stitch".
I have done Kantha work on cotton fabric.
The art of phulkari has its origins in the early part of the 19th century when the odhini or head
cloth was highlighted with embroidered flowers. It was generally done with silk threads on
Kaddar.
I have done Phulkari on cotton fabric using "Darning Stitch."
Modern Phulkari
Aari Embroidery with silk threads using a hook is a popular craft of Kutch, Gujrat. The motifs
found commonly are, dancing peacocks, human figures in dancing postures and other delicate and
definitive forms.
I have done Kutch Embroidery on cotton fabric and multiple stitches have been used which are
Blanket, Mirror Work, Herringbone, Dots and SequinsWork.