Poker Strategy

POKER STRATEGY
What is the Big Stack Strategy?
Watch the Video
Introduction
In this article you will learn:
The importance of bankroll management
The tight-aggressive play style
No-Limit Holdem is a poker format that challenges your skill, knowledge, and sometimes even your courage
to follow your guts and to make the right move. It demands both technical skill and an instinct for the right
moment.
This, and the following articles, show you a strategy that will enable you to beat No-Limit Hold'em's socalled full-ring variant (seven to ten players at a table) successfully.
You will learn
that bankroll management is what enables you to make a profit in the long-term
what basic strategy you need to beat the lower and middle limits.
Free poker money quiz tip: You'll need our starting hands chart to pass the quiz. Click here to download
the chart!
What is Bankroll Management?

Always see the money you take to a table with you as an investment, in the same way you would if you
were buying shares. As someone who is responsible with their money, you would only buy those shares if
they promised a good return and the risk of loss was manageable. Its the same concept when you use
bankroll management in poker.
It shows you what limits to invest in, i.e. how high your stakes should be, to find a good balance between
your desire to...
... advance as far as possible when you win and collect a lot of money.
... not drop too far back when you lose and not lose too much of your poker money.
You want to make a lot of money when you win but not be hit too hard when you lose. This can be done by
keeping to the '25-Buy-in-Bankroll Management' rule. It tells you how big your poker account (bankroll) has
to be to move up a limit, and when you need to put on the brakes and move down a limit.
Bankroll management for the Big Stack Strategy looks like this:
You always join a table with a full stack (100 big blinds). 100 big blinds equal one buy-in.
Once you have 25 buy-ins for the next highest limit, you can move up to that limit.
If you only have 25 buy-ins for the next lowest limit, you must move down to that limit.
The PokerStrategy.com Bankroll Management

You have
Limit you can play
Table buy-in
less than $100
NL2 (0.01/0.02)
$2
less than $250
NL4 (0.02/0.04)
$4
less than $500
NL10 (0.05/0.10)
$10
less than $625
NL20 (0.10/0.20)
$20
less than $1,250
NL25 (0.10/0.25)
$25
less than $2,500
NL50 (0.25/0.50)
$50
If you join tables of a limit that is too high for your bankroll, you will make yourself an easy target. Higher
limit players are just waiting for opponents like you. Without solid bankroll management, it doesnt matter
how well you play, it is simply not possible to make a long-term profit. Even the best players in the world go
bust if they don't stick to bankroll management.
The tight-aggressive strategy

The tight-aggressive strategy for No-Limit Hold'em is the most profitable style of playing. It's based on three
principles:
1. YOU PLAY TIGHT POKER

Tight means that you dont play everything that falls into your hands. There are many cards that look weak
and actually are weak. There are also some hands, however, that look strong, but aren't, such as King Jack
for example.
After the flop you dont need to see every showdown simply because you have a pair. Knowing when you are
beat or when the price is too high can save you a lot of money.
2. YOU PLAY AGGRESSIVE POKER
There is one simple rule in Texas Holdem: You dont want to be the one to just call, i.e. the one who just
goes along with the bets, without betting or raising yourself.
In a poker game your profit is a result of your opponents' mistakes. And when do people make mistakes?
When they have to make an important decision under pressure.
3. YOU PLAY POSITION
If your opponents have to act before you in a given betting round, you have position on them. If they have
the luxury of getting to act after you, they have position on you.
Whenever an opponent has to act before you, you have the distinct advantage of being able to observe their
move, before needing to act yourself. You are therefore in an advantageous position in terms of the
information you have, and in this game, information is a valuable commodity. In addition to this it is also
possible to make more profitable moves when playing in position.
Conclusion
Perhaps not everything in this article was new to you, but it should be helpful to constantly remind yourself
how important bankroll management and the use of a tight-aggressive style of play are for your poker
career.
As you advance higher and higher through the limits, you will adapt and create your own unique style of
play. Yet no matter what kind of intricacies you build into your own style, it will always have its foundation in
the basic elements that you learn about in this and the following articles.
In the next article you will find out what it means to play in position, and when and with which cards to
enter the game.
How to Play Before the Flop
Watch the video
Introduction
How to determine your position at the table
What hands to play pre-flop
The Starting Hands Chart
Choosing the right starting hand is half the battle in poker. If you enter the game with the right cards, you
will not only avoid difficult situations in the later betting rounds, you can also be reasonably sure that you
are indeed holding the best hand.
And that's exactly what this article is all about. You will learn when certain hands are playable and why, as
well as how to extract maximum profit from them.
You will be provided with an overview of this in the Starting Hands Chart, which gives you a simple strategy
for the first betting round in an easy to understand table format. Just as with all other strategies on
PokerStrategy.com, you can download this chart to print out and use while you play.
The next section gives a quick overview of the table positions, after which we will look at the actual strategy.
Free poker money tip: Before you start playing with your free poker money, click here to download the
chart!
What is your position at the table?

The order in which players act, depends on how they are seated in relation to the dealer (D). The more
players between the dealer and you during the betting round (counter clockwise), the sooner you have to
act and the earlier your position.
Your position tells you when it will be your turn to act.
If you are one of the first to act, you are in early position. When you are in late position, your turn to act will
come later in the round. This is important - the earlier you have to act, the stronger your hand must be,
since the more players there are after you, the greater the chance that one of them has stronger cards than
you.
The earlier your position, the stronger your hand must be.
There are 10 positions at a 10-handed table. These positions are divided into four groups: the early, middle,
and late positions, and the blinds.
Dealer
2 Late positions
3 Middle Positions
3 Early positions
2 Blind positions
Move the cursor over each group to see
the corresponding seats.
The two late positions BU and CO
The dealer and the player to his right are in the late positions. The dealer is also referred to as the BU
(Button) and the player to his right as the CO (Cutoff).
The three middle positions MP1, MP2 and MP3
The three players to the right of the late positions are in the middle positions. They are referred to as MP1,
MP2 and MP3.
The three early positions UTG1, UTG2 and UTG3
The three players to the right of the middle positions are in the early positions. They are referred to as
UTG1, UTG2 and UTG3.
The two blind positions SB and BB
The two players who have to post the blinds are in the blind positions. The player to the left of the dealer
must post the Small Blind (SB); the player to his left must post the Big Blind (BB).
WHAT IF THERE ARE LESS THAN 10 PLAYERS AT THE TABLE?
So far we assumed there were 10 players at the table, but this isn't always the case.
If there are only 9 players at the table, you drop one early position. If there are only 8 players at the table,
there is only one early position. With 7 players or less at the table, there are no early positions at all.
For every empty seat you eliminate one position, starting with the early positions, then the middle, and so
on.
Starting Hands Chart: Which Hands Should You Play?

THE NO LIMIT STARTING HANDS CHART
The PokerStrategy.com Starting Hands Chart for No Limit Texas Hold'em shows you which hands you should
play and how you should play them. Simply print it out and you will always know what to do throughout the
entire game.
Free poker money tip: Before you start playing with your free poker money, click here to download the
chart!
Further reading: Check out the poker hands overview for a general explanation on hand ranking for all game
types.
The chart contains four categories of information:
Your starting hand
The actions of your opponents before you
Your position
How you should play your starting hand considering your current position and the actions of your
opponents before you.
Your Hand
Actions Before You
Early Pos.
Middle Pos.
High Pairs
AA, KK, QQ
Middle Pairs
All players folded
Raise
Players called
Raise
1 player raised
Raise
Late Pos. Blinds
JJ, TT
All players folded
Raise
Players called
Raise
1 player raised
Call20
Low Pairs
99, 88, 77,
All players folded
Fold
66, 55, 44,
Players called
Fold
33, 22
1 player raised
Your Hand
Actions Before You
Call
Raise
Call
Call
Call20
Early Pos.
Middle Pos.
Late Pos. Blinds
High Aces (s stands for suited, o stands for offsuit)

AKo, AKs
All players folded
Raise
Players called
Raise
1 player raised
Raise
Middle Aces (s stands for suited, o stands for offsuit)

AQo, AQs
All players folded
AJs, AJo
Players called
ATs, ATo
1 player raised
Fold
Raise
Fold
Raise
Call
Fold
Low Suited Aces (s stands for suited)

A9s, A8s, A7s,
All players folded
Fold
Raise
A6s, A5s, A4s,
Players called
Fold
Call
A3s, A2s
1 player raised
Your Hand
Actions Before You
Fold
Early Pos.
Middle Pos.
Late Pos. Blinds
Suited Face Cards (s stands for suited)

KQs, KJs, KTs,
All players folded
QJs, QTs,
Players called
JTs
1 player raised
Fold
Raise
Fold
Call
Fold
Offsuit Face Cards (o stands for offsuit)

KQo, KJo, KTo,
All players folded
QJo, QTo,
Players called
JTo
1 player raised
Suited Connectors
Fold
Raise
Fold
Fold
Call
T9s, 98s,
All players folded
87s, 76s,
Players called
65s, 54s
1 player raised
Your Hand
Actions Before You
Fold
Raise
Fold
Fold
Call
Fold
Early Pos.
Middle Pos.
Late Pos. Blinds
All other hands not considered above

The rest
All players folded
Fold
Players called
Fold
1 player raised
Fold
The First Column: Your Hand
In the left column you see the possible starting hands. Each starting hand is
abbreviated. AA, for example, stands for two aces, 99 for two nines. If your
hand is not included in the chart, you should fold.
Ace
King
Queen
Jack
Ten
Nine
Suited cards s: An s behind the hand, as in A9s, stands for suited and means that both of the cards you
are holding are of the same suit (hearts, diamonds, spades or clubs). Which suit it is doesn't play any role in
Texas hold'em.
A9s stands for ace nine of the same suit
A4s stands for ace four of the same suit
QJs stands for queen jack of the same suit
QTs stands for queen ten of the same suit
Offsuit cards o: An o behind the hand, as in KQo, stands for offsuit and means that the two cards are of
two different suits, for example if you are holding a club and a heart.
KQo stands for king queen of different suits
QTo stands for queen ten of different suits
JTo stands for jack ten of different suits

THE SECOND COLUMN: WHAT ACTION TOOK PLACE BEFORE YOU?
The second column shows you the possible answers to this question. You
obviously play differently when someone raised before you, since this is a
sign that your opponent has a strong hand.
COLUMNS 3-6: WHAT TO DO DEPENDING ON YOUR POSITION
Your position tells you in what column to look next. If you are in early
position, look at the third column, if you are in the Small Blind or Big Blind,
look at the last column.
WHAT DOES 'CALL 20' MEAN?

When you play a small pair like 55 you are speculating on hitting three-of-a-kind on the flop. This only
happens approx. 12% of the time, but when it does, you will have a very strong hand that can bring in a fair
amount of money. This is why it's profitable to call a raise when holding a small pair, as long as your
opponent has enough money to pay you off when you do hit.
With a small pair, you should only call a raise, when your opponent has at least 20x the raise amount in his
stack. By the way, this applies to you as well. You must also have 20x the raise amount. You can only win as
much money as you have in your stack, so if your opponent has 20x the raise amount but you don't, it really
doesn't help you. That is what the term 'Call 20' means.
How much should you raise?

IF THERE WAS NO RAISE BEFORE YOU
If no one raised before you, you simply raise 4 big blinds + 1 big blind for every player that entered the
hand before you.
Your raise =
4x big blind
plus 1 big blind for every player that entered the hand before you.
Assume you just got your starting capital and are playing NL2 (0.01/0.02). The big blind is $0.02.
When you raise, you raise at least 4 * $0.02 = $0.08.
If someone joined the pot before you, you add an additional $0.02 to this amount for a total of $0.10. If two
players entered the hand before you, you add two additional big blinds to this amount and raise to a total of
$0.12.
IF THERE WAS EXACTLY ONE RAISE BEFORE YOU
If an opponent raised before you, you re-raise to 3x the size of the original raise. For every player that calls
this raise before you, you increase the size of your re-raise by the size of the original raise.
Your re-raise =
3x the size of the original raise
plus 1x the size of the original raise for each player that called.
Assume you are playing NL2 (0.01/0.02). A player before you raises to $0.08. You have two aces and want
to re-raise to get money in the pot. Your raise should be 3 * $0.08 = $0.24.
If another player called this raise before you, you add an additional $0.08 to this amount, for a total of
$0.32.
If two players before you called the raise, you re-raise to $0.40.
IF THERE WAS MORE THAN ONE RAISE BEFORE YOU
If there was more than one raise before you, one thing is clear: You're not getting involved if you don't have
a monster hand. You only play AA and KK, two aces and two kings. When you do have a monster, your
line of play is simple in this scenario: you go all-in.
If there was more than one raise before you, you only play AA and KK and you go all-in.
Two queens (QQ) or ace king (AK) should be folded, just like every other hand that isn't AA or KK.
What if someone raises after you?

YOU HAVE A PAIR OF ACES OR A PAIR OF KINGS
If you have a pair of aces or kings, you should just keep on raising. The best thing you can do is try and go
all-in before the flop and put all your money in the middle. Some beginners have trouble doing this, but
keep in mind that you are well ahead against every other pair by approx. 80%. You can hardly find a more
profitable opportunity to go all-in.
Fold all other hands, including AK and AQ, hard as it may be for you to do so. You can, however, make an
exception to this rule when you have a pocket pair.
YOU HAVE A POCKET PAIR
There is, as we just said, one exception. When you have a pocket pair smaller than AA or KK, you can make
an exception and call a raise, as long as both you and your opponent have stacks at least 20x the amount
you're about to call.
Just like when you follow the Call 20 rule from the Starting Hands Chart, you are speculating on hitting
three-of-a-kind on the flop. If you do hit, chances are good that you'll be able to win your opponent's entire
stack.
YOUR OPPONENT ONLY MIN-RAISES
You will find players who only min-raise fairly often in the lower limits. Whatever they may think they are
doing, it certainly doesn't make much sense.
If you have already entered the hand and one opponent raises after you by the smallest amount allowed, a
so-called min-raise, you should always call, unless, of course, you have AA or KK, in which case you reraise.
Examples
EXAMPLE 1- NO RAISES BEFORE YOU
Limit
Your
hand
NL 2 $0.01/$0.02 (big blind = $0.02)
Position
UTG3 (early position)
Situation
You have two players in front of you. Both call and pay the $0.02 big blind. Now
it's your turn to make a decision.
You definitely want to raise with this hand. AK is, quite simply, a good hand. But how much should you raise
to?
The rule says: Raise 4 big blinds + 1 big blind for each player that has entered the hand.
In this example 2 players have already called. You raise to a total of 6 big blinds. And since the big blind in
this limit is $0.02, you raise to a total of 6 * $0.02 = $0.12.
EXAMPLE 2 - CALL 20
Limit
NL 2 $0.01/$0.02 (big blind = $0.02)
Your
hand
Position
MP3 (middle position)
Situation
Everyone folds except for the player directly before you, who raises to $0.08. He
then has $1.90 left in his stack.
Since you have a pocket pair and an opponent raised before you, you play according to the Call 20 rule. This
rule says you can call a raise when you have a pocket pair and you and your opponent both have at least
20* the size of the raise left in your stacks.
Your opponent's raise was $0.08. 20 * $0.08 = $1.60. This is the amount both, you, and your opponent
must have in your stacks for you to be able to call his raise with your pocket pair. Your opponent has $1.90
remaining, and you always have a full buy-in ($2), since you are a good player. In this example you can call
the raise and see if you hit three-of-a-kind on the flop.
EXAMPLE 3 - A RAISE AFTER YOU
Limit
NL 2 $0.01/$0.02 (big blind = $0.02)
Your
hand
Position
MP2 (middle position)
Situation
Everyone before you folds. You obviously raise with AK; $0.08 is the right amount
in this example. But then you encounter resistance, as an opponent after you raises,
to $0.24. What should you do?
If your first thought is 'fold,' you have already learned quite a bit. Your hand may look nice, but you have to
fold AK if there's a large raise after you.
EXAMPLE 4 - A MIN-RAISE AFTER YOU
Limit
NL 2 $0.01/$0.02 (big blind = $0.02)
Your
hand
Position
BU (Button, late position)
Situation
You are on the Button, meaning you are the dealer. Everyone before you folds. The
Starting Hands Chart says to raise. You raise to $0.08, but the player in the Big
Blind doesn't want to play along and raises to $0.16.
In this example you are confronted with a min-raise. Normally you would just fold A8s when someone raises
after you, but the rules say you should always call when an opponent min-raises after you.
Take a look at the flop. You have position on your opponent, and your hand isn't all that bad. Just don't play
for a big pot if all you hit is a pair of aces or eights.
EXAMPLE 5 - TWO RAISES BEFORE YOU
Limit
NL 2 $0.01/$0.02 (big blind = $0.02)
Your
hand
Position
BU (Button, late position)
Situation
A player in early position raises to $0.08. Then a player in middle position re-raises
to $0.24. Now it's your turn to act.
This is a very nice situation to be in. Of course, a pair of aces would be even better, but even with a pair of
kings you don't have to think twice before going all-in. Instead of trying to figure out how high your raise
should be, you simply go all-in and bet all your money.
If you had an ace and a king (AK) or two queens (QQ) you would have to fold. These hands are rarely good
when two opponents raise before you.
Conclusion
Once you've understood how to use the Starting Hands Chart, you will be on the safe side in the first betting
round. Choosing the right starting hands is half the work in poker and a lot of players burn their money at
exactly this point. They play too many weak hands or don't know when they should stay out of the line of
fire with cards that they think are pretty good, but are obviously too weak in the given situation.
You can avoid uncomfortable situations on the flop when you carefully select your starting hands as
recommended by the Starting Hands Chart. You will find opponents who are all too happy to call, especially
in the lower limits. There is no reason for you to try to create marginal situations. Your motto is "winning by
folding."
In the next article of this series you will learn what kind of hands you can hit on the flop or on later streets.
You will also learn the best way to play your hand.
Tip: In addition to reading our articles, you can also use our other educational materials to help you
learn how to play poker, faster.
How to Play After the Flop
Watch the video
Introduction
Getting value from your strong hands
Protecting your hand against draws
Reasons for not betting
Time to get to the heart of the Big Stack Strategy: playing after the flop. No-Limit Hold'em is a dynamic,
situational game. A number of factors influence your actions. What happened before the flop? What kind of
board are you looking at? Who are your opponents?
After reading this article you will be able to answer the following questions: What is my goal? And how can I
achieve this goal?
The follow-up articles, which you will be able to access after you pass the PokerStrategy.com quiz, will go
into further detail and introduce you to the mathematics of poker. You will see how the strength of your
hand, and the way you play it, can vary - sometimes radically - depending on the situation you are in.
But first, the basics: What can you hit on the flop?
Free poker money quiz tip: You'll need our starting hands chart to pass the quiz. Click here to download
the chart!
What are made hands?
MONSTERS
Two-
pair
Full
house
3-of-
a-kind
4-of-akind
Strai
Straig
ht flush
Flush
Royal
ght
flush
Made hands are hands that could already be the best hand, like a pair or three-of-a-kind. These hands don't
necessarily need to improve and sometimes they can only barely be improved, if at all.
You should already be familiar with most of the made hands after reading the article on the Rules of Texas
Hold'em:
Go to the article: The Rules of Texas Hold'em

The hands like two pair, three-of-a-kind, straights, flushes and even better hands are also calledmonsters,
because they are generally very strong hands. When you have a monster, you will usually be well ahead,
and can win a lot of money when you play it right.
You can also have pairs and weaker hands, but only two types of these hands are good, namely top pairs
and overpairs, which we will explain below.
TOP-PAIR
When you have a pair made up of one of your starting hand cards and the highest community card, you
have a top-pair.
OVERPAIR
If you have a pocket pair that is higher than all community cards, you have an overpair. No opponent can
have a top-pair better than your overpair.
NOTE: TWO-PAIR ISN'T ALWAYS TWO-PAIR

Your two-pair is only a monster when you pair the board with both of your starting hand cards.
In other words: If there is a pair on the board and you pair one of your starting hand cards, your two-pair
isn't really a monster, since the pair on the board could give your opponent three-of-a-kind or even a full
house.
Strong two-pair
Weak two-pair
What are draws?

Draws are hands that aren't complete yet, but could turn into a made (completed) hand if a helpful card
shows up on the board.
There are strong draws and weak draws, depending on how many cards could help your hand. If you have
the chance of making a flush, there are 9 cards that can help you. If you have a pocket pair, there are only 2
cards in the deck that can improve your hand to three-of-a-kind.
You will learn which cards can help you and how to easily determine whether or not it is profitable to play
your draw after gaining access to the Bronze articles on the mathematics of poker. To gain access to these
advanced articles, you simply need to pass the PokerStrategy.com poker quiz, and receive your free starting
capital.
OESD
If your starting hand cards and the community cards give you four cards in sequential order, you have an
OESD. OESD stands for open-ended straight draw.
This means you don't have a straight yet. You are missing the fifth card on either end of the sequence,
hence the name open-ended. There are 8 cards that could complete your straight in the example below,
namely any one of the 4 aces or the 4 nines remaining in the deck.
FLUSH DRAW
When you have four cards of the same suit you have a flush draw. One more card of that suit would give
you a flush.
MONSTER DRAW
The monster draw is a combination of a flush draw and an OESD. This hand gives you the chance to make
either a flush or a straight.
DOUBLE GUTSHOT
The next type of straight draw after the OESD is not always easy to recognise. It is called the double
gutshot, which is based on a gutshot.
A gutshot is a straight in which there is a middle card missing. An example would be Ten, Jack, Queen, and
Ace, where the king is missing. A double gutshot draw is a combination of two gutshot draws. Your starting
hand and the cards on the board give you two different chances to complete a gutshot.
In the example below you have a gutshot draw with the ace, queen, jack and ten, and another gutshot draw
with the queen, jack, ten and eight. As you can see, there are 8 cards that can help you (just like with an
OESD), namely, any king or nine. A double gutshot draw is, in fact, just as strong as an OESD.
In the advanced articles, which you will gain access to once you've passed the PokerStrategy.com poker
quiz, you'll learn about implied odds and why a double gutshot is actually more profitable than an OESD. The
main reason is that it's much harder for your opponent to spot this draw.
OVERCARDS
If you don't hit any of the draws mentioned, and don't have a made hand either, but your two starting hand
cards are both higher than all the cards on the board, then you have overcards. This isn't a particularly
strong draw, but should you hit a pair on a later street you can be sure it'll be a top-pair.
Why bet
In No-Limit Holdem the aggressive, thinking player who carefully selects the spots to show aggression,
wins. Every bet and every raise should have a purpose.
Maximising value
The primary purpose of betting is obvious: You have a strong hand and want to get money in the pot. You
want opponents with weaker hands to call and stay in the hand. When this is the case, you are betting for
value.
But be careful! It's not only a question of whether you think your hand is better than your opponent's, you
also need to consider with which hands he will fold, and with which hands he will call, if you were to bet.
You can only bet for value when you know that your opponents will actually call your bet (thus putting
money in the pot) with a weaker hand often enough.
Bluffing
The second possible purpose of betting: the bluff. You want to force opponents with better hands to fold so
you can win the pot.
Always follow the following five rules when considering a bluff:
Don't inflate the pot with bluff bets.
Be more inclined to bluff when your hand can still improve.
Only bluff against players that you know would actually fold their hand.
Don't bluff against several opponents at once.
Only bluff when you can credibly represent a strong hand and it is likely that your opponents dont
have much.
EXAMPLE 1 - A GOOD SPOT TO BLUFF

Before the flop - NL25 Blinds: $0.10/$0.25
You are on the

Button
UTG1, UTG2, UTG3, MP1,

MP2, MP3 and Cutoff fold
You raise to $1
SB calls $0.90
BB calls $0.75
Flop - Active Players (3): You, SB, BB - Pot: $3.00
SB and BB check
You bet $2
SB and BB fold
Above is a classic example of a so-called continuation bet and a good opportunity for a bluff. Few cards, with
which your opponents called before the flop, will have hit something playable on this flop. You on the other
hand raised pre-flop and could credibly be holding an Ace for a top-pair. If none of your opponents is
actually holding one of the 3 remaining Aces, they will not be in a favourable spot to continue with their
hands.
EXAMPLE 2 - A POOR SPOT TO BLUFF

You are on the

Button

You raise to $1
SB calls $0.90
BB calls $0.75
SB and BB check
You check
This flop is very draw-heavy. The flop cards connect with a number of cards, with which your opponents
might have called before the flop. It's also hard to pretend that you have a very strong hand on this
particular board. If you are playing against very tight opponents, you could bet once, but on a draw-heavy
flop like this you'll find it quite hard to get your opponents to fold.
Continuation bets
Whenever you raise before the flop and get called, you are the so-called aggressor in the following betting
rounds. By raising pre-flop, you represented a strong hand, and can now more credibly make your
opponents believe that you also have a strong hand on the flop. This means you now have the option of
continuing your pre-flop aggression and making a so-called continuation bet.
The great thing about continuation bet bluffs is that you would play your strong hands the same way. Your
opponents are left guessing and will often just take the safe route and fold. You can therefore attack a lot of
pots with continuation bets when you are the aggressor just don't try attacking them all.
EXAMPLES OF GOOD FLOPS FOR CONTINUATION BETS

A high card
You bet
An ace and a face card
You bet
You bet
A pair
As you can see, a flop that doesn't help a lot of hands is a good flop for a continuation bet. These flops don't
offer many draws and there aren't many strong made hands. On a good flop you can represent a strong
hand, and your opponent will rarely be able to call, even when he is certain you are bluffing.
EXAMPLES OF BAD FLOPS FOR CONTINUATION BETS

Very draw-heavy
Very draw-heavy
You check
You check
You check
Very draw-heavy
All three examples are labelled: very draw-heavy. When this is the case, you should only consider placing a
continuation bet on the flop when you are facing one single opponent.
EXAMPLE 3 - NO CONTINUATION BET

UTG1, UTG2, UTG3 and MP1

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and Cutoff fold
Button calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
Flop - Active Players (3): You, BB, Button - Pot: $3.10
BB checks
You check
The best thing you can do on this flop is give up your hand. There is no sense in making a bluff continuation
bet, unless your opponents are both extremely tight. A lot of hands will have hit this flop and you cant
credibly represent a strong hand. The probability of both opponents folding against your bluff sinks
dramatically on this type of flop.
Protection
Not every made hand is a monster. You will often see yourself ahead with your hand, but at the same time
know that your hand is vulnerable and that your opponents are just waiting for the right card to show up on
the board to beat you.
Your opponents can only beat you if they hit on the turn or the river. The greater the likelihood of them
hitting good community cards, the more strongly you should protect your hand.
Protection means making the next community card expensive to look at. If your opponent has a hand that
can still improve to beat yours, he is going to have to pay a high price to see the next card.
When put to practice this means: When you have a made hand and the board is offering a number of draws,
protect your hand by making the next community card expensive.
The concept of protection touches on the fundamental mathematics of Texas Hold'em, which you will learn
about in the articles after you've passed the PokerStrategy.com poker quiz and received your free starting
capital. These advanced articles will teach you everything you need to know to master No-Limit Texas
Holdem.
EXAMPLE 4 - PROTECTION
You are on the

Button

You raise to $1
SB calls $0.90
BB calls $0.75
SB and BB check
You bet $2.50
The same flop we saw as an example of a poor flop for bluffing is also a flop on which you absolutely must
protect your made hands. Your opponents could have a flush draw, an OESD, a pair, or a gutshot. You have
to make it expensive for them to see the next community card.
Why not to bet

There are a lot of good reasons not to bet or raise, for example, when you have absolutely nothing at all.
Three other good reasons not to bet are: pot control, bluff induce, and slowplay.
Pot control
Once you see the flop you should more or less know what kind of pot you want to play for. If you have a
monster, you want to play for a big pot and go all-in if possible. If you have a weak hand, you don't want to
see any big bets and would prefer to play for a small pot.
The saying goes: Big pots are for big hands, small pots are for small hands. When you don't have a really
strong hand (top-pair is seldom a very strong hand), you don't want the pot size to get out of control.
This is what we refer to as pot control.
EXAMPLE 5 - POT CONTROL


MP2 and MP3 fold
You are in Cutof
You raise to $1
Button calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
Button folds
BB calls $2.50
Turn - Active Players (2): You, BB - Pot: $8.10
BB checks
You check
You can play for pot control when the board isn't offering any noteworthy draws and you are in position. In
this example the community cards do not allow for any strong draws. You don't need to protect your hand
on the turn.
If you check, this is what happens:
If your opponent does have a better hand, you lose less. You keep the pot small.
If your opponent has a weaker hand, perhaps a weaker pair of aces, a pair of eights or some other
pair, he will often fold if you bet. When you check, you signal weakness, which might animate him to bet on
the river, either as a bluff or because he thinks he has the best hand. Even if he doesn't bet, it is more likely
that he will call a river bet that you make.
Slowplay
Whenever you play your hand as though it were much weaker than it actually is, you are slowplaying.
Instead of playing as if you had a strong hand, you feign weakness and play the hand slowly and wait for
later streets to bet or raise.
By under-representing your hand you can animate your opponent to overplay a weak hand or give your
opponent the chance to pick up a playable hand.
Let's say you hit a full house on the flop. There aren't many hands your opponent could have that he would
continue to play if you show aggression. By not betting, you give him the chance to either pick up something
playable on the turn, or go right ahead and do something stupid on the flop itself.
Don't slowplay against too many opponents and don't slowplay on draw-heavy boards. Don't slowplay
against passive opponents, either. You should only slowplay when you are certain that your opponent will
take the bait and overplay his hand.
For most normal scenarios slowplay is the worst route to take. The reason is that there is a simple rule of
thumb on the lower limits that you should never forget: your opponents are more likely to call a bet than to
bet themselves. The reason for this was already mentioned: The average player in the lower limits is too
loose and too passive.
EXAMPLE 6 - SLOWPLAY
UTG1 raises to $1
You are on the
Button
UTG2, UTG3, MP1, MP2, MP3

and Cutoff fold
You call $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
Flop - Active Players (3): You, BB, UTG1 - Pot: $3.10
BB checks
UTG1 bets $2.50
You call $2.50
This is a good example of a situation where you can slowplay. The flop is not draw-heavy. It looks relatively
harmless and contains an ace. You don't need to protect your hand and can simply just call the opponent's
flop bet, as long as you're of the opinion, that this will make you more money in the long run rather than a
direct raise.
EXAMPLE 7 - NEVER SLOWPLAY A FLUSH

UTG1 raises to $1
You are on the
Button
UTG2, UTG3, MP1 and MP2

fold
MP3, Cutoff and you call $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (4): You, UTG1, MP3, Cutoff - Pot: $4.35
UTG1 bets $2.50

MP3 and CO fold
You raise to $9
In this example you hit a strong hand, the flush, but every higher spade has a draw for a better flush. When
you hit a smallflush on the flop, just go for it and try to get all your money in the pot as quickly as
possible.This also ensures that worse hands like two-pair or sets dont get scared into folding when an
additional spade shows up.
Putting it together
When making your post-flop decisions you should try to find a balance between ...
... your natural desire to get the most value from your strong hands when you're ahead.
... the desire to control the pot and keep the price low when you hold a weak hand.
... the necessity of protecting your vulnerable hands by making the next community cards
expensive to look at.
Value
Protection
Pot control
The weaker your hand, the more you should focus on pot control. The stronger your hand, the more you
should focus on maximizing value. The more vulnerable your hand, the more you should focus on protection.
How should you play made hands?

Playing with made hands is relatively simple. If you have the best hand, you bet or raise. The weaker your
hand, the more you need to pay attention to controlling the size of the pot. Try to keep the pot small with
weak hands, and if your opponents offer too much resistance or make too much action, fold.
The more opponents you are facing, the stronger your hand needs to be. If there was no raise before the
flop or if you called a pre-flop raise, you should have a really good hand before you get involved in any large
post-flop pots.
Only slowplay with very strong hands. The more draw-heavy the board, and the more vulnerable your hand,
the more important it is to focus on protection. Dont let your opponents see the next community cards too
cheaply.
Always try to find a balance between pot control and protection. You don't have to protect a marginal hand
that could already be far behind.
EXAMPLE 8 - TWO-PAIR
UTG1 and UTG2 call $0.25

UTG3, MP1 and MP2 fold
You are in MP3
You call $0.25

Cutoff folds
Button calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (5): You, BB, UTG1, UTG2, Button - Pot: $1.35
BB, UTG1 and UTG2 check

You bet $1.20
Button folds
BB and UTG1 call $1.20
UTG2 folds
Turn - Active Players (3): You, BB, UTG1 - Pot: $4.95
BB and UTG1 check

You bet $3.50
BB raises to $8
UTG1 and you fold
Your bet on the flop is standard. After both players check to you on the turn you should bet again. You could
certainly get calls from flush draws. Other weak made hands could find a reason to call, too. You also keep
the initiative when you bet. If you check, you give up your control over the hand and won't know where you
stand with your hand on the river.

But then the player in the Big Blind raises. This move on the turn against several opponents signals a lot of
strength. He will usually have the flush. Your two-pair doesn't look so great anymore. The only correct thing
to do is fold.
EXAMPLE 9 - OVERPAIR

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and Cutoff fold
Button calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
Button calls $2.50
BB folds
Turn - Active Players (2): You, Button - Pot: $8.10
You bet $6.50

Button raises to $15
You fold
The best move you can make after seeing this turn card is to bet, then fold if your opponent raises. Your
opponent will rarely raise with a weaker hand. You can't check, since even a hand like 2 2 has countless
chances of improving to become a hand that could beat your pair of jacks.
If your opponent calls your bet, you can either give up on the river, or make another small bet and fold if
your opponent raises.
You are on the

Button

MP2 and MP3 fold
Cutoff raises to $1
You call $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (2): You, Cutoff - Pot: $2.35
CO bets $1.50
You raise to $5
In this example the best thing you can do is raise. The board offers several draws. If the turn card is higher
than a nine, a king or a queen, for example, you won't be in a very comfortable situation with your hand,
either.
Based on the above-mentioned factors, you should raise. If your opponent re-raises, you can be certain he
has you beat. If he calls, you can base your next decision on the turn card.
How should you play draws?

In order to play draws perfectly you need an understanding of the mathematical concepts of outs, odds, and
pot odds. You will learn more about them in the advanced articles that you will have access to once you've
passed the poker quiz and received your free starting capital.
In general, you should always play draws passively when no-one raised before the flop or when you called a
raise before the flop. You can call moderate flop bets with strong draws like flush draws and OESDs and can
usually just fold weak draws (like gutshots).
Don't chase draws! If you have a flush draw on the turn, you will complete your flush on the river less than
20% of the time. You're wasting money when you call big bets on the turn.
If you raised before the flop, you can continue to play aggressively with a lot of draws, as long as you are
only facing one or two opponents. You will, for example, almost always place a continuation bet on the flop
when you have a strong draw.
When you are facing several opponents, or opponents who call every bet on principle, you can't bluff. The
same counts when it comes to playing draws aggressively. You should only play a draw aggressively when
you know your opponent(s) can fold.
EXAMPLE 11 - PASSIVE PLAY

UTG1, UTG2 and UTG3 fold

MP1 calls $0.25
You are the SB
MP2 folds
MP3 and Cutoff call $0.25
Button folds
You call $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (5): You, BB, MP1, MP3, Cutoff - Pot: $1.25
You and BB check

MP1 bets $1
MP3 calls $1
Cutoff folds
You call $1
BB folds
Turn - Active Players (3): You, MP1, MP3 - Pot: $4.25
You bet $3
You decided to play your hand passively since there are so many opponents in the hand. You can easily call
this bet, since you and MP1 both still have a lot of money in your stacks.
Then you complete your draw on the turn. Now you should get active. If you check, your opponent might
not bet after the flush draw completes. But there are a lot of opponents in the lower limits who will call this
bet, partly because they think it looks like a bluff.
EXAMPLE 12 - AGGRESSIVE PLAY

UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2 and UTG3 fold
MP1 calls $0.25
You are in Cutof
MP2 and MP3 fold

You call $0.25
Button folds
SB call $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (5): You, SB, BB, UTG1, MP1 - Pot: $1.25
SB, BB, UTG1 and MP1 check

You bet $1.10
SB and BB fold
UTG1 calls $1.10
MP1 folds
In this example you have a strong flush draw and overcards (king jack), which give your draw even more
strength. You should not, in general, semi-bluff against four opponents, since you will rarely succeed in
forcing all of them to fold.
In this special situation, however, you should bet nonetheless. The main reason for this is that you are in
position and all other players have to act before you. Additionally there are a lot of cards that can come on
the turn or the river that will improve your hand. Even if someone calls, you will often hit a good card on a
later street and be able to win with the best hand.
Conclusion
This article introduced you to the most important concepts of post-flop play. Of course, we can't fit
everything into one article. You will gain access to more articles, videos, and even live coaching sessions on
this subject matter right after you pass the PokerStrategy.com quiz.
Understanding the concepts of pot control and protection is very important. You don't want to play for a big
pot with a mediocre hand. At the same time, you don't want to let your opponents see the next card for a
cheap price when you have a vulnerable hand.
You should by now know that betting is only profitable when weaker made hands call, or when you protect
your hand against draws. If you don't have the greatest hand and your opponent is giving you the chance to
get to the river cheaply, take him up on it.
In general, the same rules you learned for pre-flop play can be applied to your play on the flop, turn and
river:
Play tight and avoid marginal situations.
Play aggressively and take an active part in shaping the action instead of calling opponents' bets.
Play in position. Always look for the chance to play with position on your opponent(s), just like you
do before the flop.
If you play by these principles you'll already have a considerable advantage over other players who you
encounter at the low stakes. There is however a lot more to learn! As you move up in stakes, the games
get more challenging. More advanced knowledge is needed to develop into a truly fearsome player.
Luckily all the necessary information is available to you right here on PokerStrategy.com.
No Limit Hold'em lessons overview

Stage 1: Play poker with strategy (NL2 - NL5)
With PokerStrategy.com's starting strategy, you can begin right away and get a feel for the dynamics of a
poker game. The strategy is easily learned and profitable at the smallest limits; your resources include a
Starting Hand Chart as well as articles regarding postflop game.
Beginner Strategy
What is the Big Stack Strategy?
How to Play Before the Flop
How to Play After the Flop
Stage 2: Basic concepts and thinking in ranges (NL10)

Having learned the starting strategy you can now begin to develop your own game. In this stage you will
learn to understand some fundamental connections, to express your thoughts in concrete ranges, and learn
how to derive your equity. So "my opponent bluffs a lot." becomes "I assume that my opponent bluffs here
with {AQ, AJ, QJ, JT}, whereas he only bets {AA, KK, AK} with his best hands."
The Basics
Position
Playability
Odds & Outs
Implied Odds
Why Do You Bet?
Ranges & Equity

Introduction to Ranges
Combos & Card Removal
Equity: Introduction
Equity: Final Calls
Stage 3: Hand reading & exploitation (NL25 - NL50)

One of the main factors in a successful poker game is the analysis and exploitation of weaknesses in your
opponents' play. In these lessons you will learn the techniques and default ranges needed to analyse your
opponents' tendencies . In our exploitation lessons you will learn how to use these analyses to your
advantage in order to counteract your opponents' tendencies.
Hand Reading
The Five Player Types
The Average Range
The Funnel Principle
Things To Consider At Showdown
4 Tips for Successful Hand Reading
Value to Bluff Ratio
Notes
Exploits
Auto-Profit
Thin Value Betting
Exploitive Folds
Keeping Ranges Wide
Stage 4: Playing With an adaptive game plan (NL100 - NL200)

The next step in your development as poker player is planning your complete range in a certain situation.
This helps you to recognize leaks in your opponents' game with regard to the frequencies of his actions.
These frequency leaks will allow you to configure your ranges so that you have the right range for the right
situation.
Game Plan
Gameplan: Introduction
Range Protection
Steal EV
NL 6-max Preflop-Ranges
Calldown Frequencies
Calldown Frequencies: River
Barreling Frequencies
Barreling Frequencies: River
The Basics: Position
Poker is a game of incomplete information, so every piece of information you can acquire is valuable in the
game. The more players who have to act before you, the more information you can get. It is your position at
the table that determines at what point you have to make a decision.
You have to differentiate between absolute and relative position. Your absolute position is the position you
have relative to the button. You are in UTG, MP, CO, on the button or in the blinds. But what is actually more
important, is your relative position. This means your position relative to other active players in a hand.
There are three relative positions: in position, out of position and

sandwich.
If there is only one acting opponent left at the flop (heads-up), then there are two options:
You play in position (IP): This means you are last to act.
You play out of position (OOP): This means you have to make your decisions first.
The position is determined by the post-flop betting order. The small blind always plays out of position, even
though he makes the second-to-last decision pre-flop.
However, when there are more acting players left post-flop, the situation is called a multiway-pot. Now you
can sit in between two players, which is called sandwich position. When you are in the sandwich post-flop,
you can never act last.
SB
Must act first, so he is OOP.
BB
Plays in the sandwich and has position relative to SB.
BU
Acts last, so he is IP. He has position relative to BB.
In position is better than out of position

Your goal is to play most hands in position. This leads to an information advantage compared to the other
players, since you can make the last decision on every street (flop, turn and river).
When you are on the button, you are always in position. You will always act last, which means that the
button is the best position at the table.
The worst spot is the small blind. Even though you make the second-to-last decision pre-flop, post-flop you
are always the first to act.
The other positions are open to all possible relative positions. The more players who can react to your
actions, the higher your risk of having to play out of position post-flop. This makes the cut off the second
best position at the table, because only the button can act after you post-flop. The earlier your position, the
higher the probability that you will be forced to play out of position post-flop.
When you are in position post-flop, your competitors have to act before you on every street, which means
you always have the information advantage of knowing whether they have checked or bet. Conversely, other
players do not know how you react to a check, so you are in total control. You can either bet or check and
thereby decide to see the next card for free basically getting a free card.
In position, you can play more hands

Two factors are essential in determining your choice of starting hands:
The chance of a player behind you having a strong hand.
The chance that you will be in position after the flop.

The later your position is, the lower the probability of someone behind you having a strong hand. At the
same time there is a better chance that you will be in position post-flop. Consequently:
Important:
The closer you are to the button, the more hands you can play.
There is one exception to this rule, which is the small blind. In this case the two factors are in conflict with
each other. The SB is second last to act pre-flop. This leads to a low chance of someone behind him having a
strong hand. Post-flop, however, the SB is always OOP.
Therefore for the SB you should be aware that you can play more hands than you can in early position, but
far less than you can on the button.
You often want to be in position relative to weak players

Your relative position relates to your active opponents. Ideally you want to play against weak players (fish)
and have position on them.
The closer you sit to a player to your right, the more often you have position on him post-flop. The closer
you sit to a player to your left, the more often you have to play out of position. So your goal is to sit as close
as possible to a weak player on your right, ideally just next to him on his left side.
Summary
Position determines who is the first to act and who may be the last to act.
There are three relative positions, determined by the post-flop betting order:
In Position (IP): You are the last to act post-flop.
Out of Position (OOP): You are the first to act.
Sandwich: You are in between two opponents. Against one of them you are IP, but on the other one
you are OOP.
Due to the information advantage, it is better to play in position than out of position. In position, you can
play more starting hands. When there is a weak player at your table, you should sit as near as possible on
his left, because that is where you will be in position on him most of the time.
The Basics: Playability
The playability of a hand indicates how easy it will be for you to make the best possible decision after the
flop.
You always want to invest your money as a favourite with a very high chance of winning. This means that it
is necessary for you to know how strong your hand really is. The better the playability of your hand is, the
easier it will be to know when you can shove in your chips as a favourite.
Good playability leads to domination

One of the most frequent questions in poker is: "Where do I stand with my hand?". How do you know that
you are the favourite in a hand?
In many situations, the answer to that question is not very clear cut. Let's say
you are holding
and the flop comes
. You want to get that
hand to showdown over the three remaining streets. How sure are you that you
will win the pot at the showdown?
If your opponent also holds top pair, chances are high that he will have a better
kicker. In that case you are dominated. Domination means that a strong hand is
up against a reasonable but worse hand that has very little chances of catching
up.
If you are playing with
against
on a
flop, you are dominated. You are behind
and you hardly have any chance of catching up. The only card that will help you is a 4.
If you are holding
against
on a
board, you are not dominated. You are
definitely behind, but you have good chances of making a better hand than your opponent. If heart rolls of
on the turn, you will be the one to dominate your opponent. He will have a good hand with top pair top
kicker, but he is very behind compared to your flush.
The playability decides who dominates whom. Domination decides who will be the favourite and
consequently win the money. The more often you can dominate your opponent, the more money you will
win.
Domination means: a strong hand plays against a reasonable but weaker

hand that has little chances of catching up. The one who dominates will
win the money!
Playability influences hand selection

The playability of a hand will only become important after the flop. However, post-flop situations depend on
your pre-flop hand selection.
Your goal for post-flop play is the following: try to dominate and avoid being dominated!
You can achieve this by preferring hands with good playability in your pre-flop hand selection. But how is the
playability of a hand determined?
It is evident that you should always strive to play big pots with strong hands. A strong hand is only really
strong if your opponents can hold weaker hands that will still be strong enough to make them pay. This will
be true on a regular basis for the following hands: sets, straights, flushes and top pair top kicker when you
are holding AK. The more likely your holding is to hit one of those hands, the better its playability.
The following principles are key for hand selection with good playability:
Aces with a strong kicker are better than aces with a weak kicker.
Suited cards are better than offsuit: they can make flushes.
Connected cards are better than unconnected: they can make straights.
Pairs have a good playability post-flop: they can hit sets.

Look at the following examples:
Examples for playability

Good playability
,
You dominate with strong top pairs, flushes, straights

and sets.
Mediocre playability
,
You hit and dominate less often.
Bad playability
,
You will be dominated often.
Good playability simplifies post-flop play

Let's return to the question: "Where do I stand with my hand?". The better the playability of your hand is,
the easier it will be to answer that question. You will have an easy decision if one of these answers is
correct:
You are clearly ahead: you try to get money into the pot.
You are clearly behind: you play check/fold.
You have a strong draw: you want to continue, be it aggressively or passively.

If you can give a clear answer, you are very likely facing a difficult decision. You are more likely to make
mistakes the more difficult your decision is. The following table shows some examples:
Your hand
The board
Where do you stand?
What do you do?
Clearly ahead
Bet/raise
Clearly behind
Check/fold
Clearly ahead
Bet/raise
Strong draw
Bet/raise or call
Monster draw
Bet/raise
Clearly behind
Check/fold
Good playability means that you will have more easy decisions. Thus, you will make less mistakes and play
more profitably.
Consider, however, that you will also face difficult decisions with hands that have a good playability.
However, this will happen much less frequently when compared to hands with bad playability.
Summary
The playability of a hand determines how often you will be able to easily play optimally after the flop and
how often you will face difficult decisions.
The goal is to get paid off by worse hands that will have a hard time catching up to you. This is called
domination.
You achieve domination by choosing to play hands with a good playability before the flop. Suited connectors,
pairs and AK have the best playability. Offsuit hands with large gaps have the worst playability.
The Basics: Odds & Outs
Before this lesson you should have read:
What is the Big Stack Strategy or
Sit and Go beginner strategy

In poker, you are often behind with an incomplete hand, but you still have the chance to surpass the hand of
your opponent. On the turn or river you need one card, which improves your hand into a made hand, e.g.
into a flush or a straight.
A card that makes a draw into a made hand is called an out. When such a card appears on the turn or river,
it is called "hitting an out".
In this lesson, you will learn how to determine the probability to hit an out. These are called odds. You will
learn how to calculate if you can profitably call a certain bet of your opponent with a certain draw using odds
& outs as per the chart below.
Outs improve draws into made hands

It is called a draw, when you probably do not hold the best hand after the flop, but still have realistic
chances to improve your hand into the best one. Typical draws are flush draws or straight draws. The cards
that complete your draw are called outs.
Example: You hold
and the flop is
. You have a flush draw. Every heart on the turn
gives you a flush. The deck includes 13 hearts. Two of them are in your hand and two are in the flop. So
there are nine hearts remaining, that can give you a flush on the turn. This means you have nine outs.
The more outs a draw has, the stronger it is. Remember only to count those cards as outs that really
improve your draw into the best hand with a high probability. If an 8 appears on the turn in this example,
then your hand improves into a pair, but it is anything but sure, that you will be ahead with this holding.
Draws and their outs
Draw
Outs
Flush draw:
on
Open-ended straight draw:
on
Two overcards:
on
Two pair/trips:
on
Gutshot:
on
Texas Hold'em odds are the probability to hit an out

In order to be able to make the right decision with your draw you need to know the probability to hit an out
on the turn or the river. This is calculated as follows:
Step 1: Determine the number of outs, that complete your draw.

Step 2: Divide the number of your outs by the number of possible cards that might appear on the
next street.
Back to the example: You hold
on the flop
and you have a flush draw. You already
know that you have nine outs by this. In the next step you have to divide the number of your outs by the
total number of turn cards.
The deck has 52 cards. Five of these are already known to you. Two of them you hold in your hand and
three are in the flop. So there are 47 unknown cards left that can appear on the turn. So the probability to
get the flush on the turn is:
9 outs / 47 possible cards = 0,19 = 19% ~ 4 to 1.
The probability is called odds. In Texas Hold'em, odds are regularly given in the notation "x to y". A
probability of 19% means that you will hit an out on the next street in about one out of five cases. This is
given by "4 to 1". An average there are four misses opposed to one hit.
In the following chart you find poker odds for typical situations. It also includes Texas Hold'em odds from the
flop to the river. For example, these are important in an all-in situation, since in an all-in you will see the
turn and river for sure.
Poker Odds Chart

Odds and outs
Outs Odds:
Flop-Turn / Turn-River
Odds:
Flop-River
Example
46:1
22.5:1
Backdoor flush draw
22.5:1
11:1
Pocket pair to set
11:1
5:1
Gutshot
8:1
4:1
Two pair/trips
5:1
2:1
Open-ended straight draw
4:1
2:1
Flush draw
12
3:1
1:1
Flush draw + gutshot
13
2.5:1
1:1
OESD + pair
14
2.5:1
1:1
Flush draw + pair
15
2:1
1:1
Flush draw + OESD
Pot odds Can I profitably play my hand?

Pot odds are the ratio of the possible reward compared to the stake you have to place when confronted with
a bet. Thus they can be seen as a risk/reward ratio. By comparing the pot odds with your odds, you can
estimate if a stake for a draw is worth it.
Again, we take a look at the example:
Your required stake is $2, the pot previous to the bet is $8, your possible reward is $10. The odds to hit your
flush are about 4:1 against you.
Let us assume that in this case you will win the hand. This means that in one of these 5 cases you win $12.
In the other four cases you will lose $2 respectively. Again under the assumption that you have to fold your
hand on the turn if you can not improve it.
When you call the $2, on average after five occasions you have lost $2 four times and won $10 once. Your
total profit, which is calculated by profit - deficit, is thereby at $10 - $8 = $2.
For this reason in the long run, it will pay off to call your opponent's bet in this situation. On average, you
will win $0.40 (= $2 / 5 hands) every time.
Now we introduce the so-called pot odds. They give the ratio of the possible reward compared to the
required stake, so they are a reward/risk ratio.
Pot odds = possible reward : needed stake
In the aforementioned situation, the pot contains $8. You have to add the $2 that are placed by your
opponent which makes a total pot and a possible benefit of $10. You have to pay $2 to stay in the game and
see the turn card. Therefore the pot odds are $10:$2 or 5:1.
Thus your pot odds are 5:1 and your odds are 4:1.
Now you have to consider the following rule: if the pot odds are higher than the odds of an incomplete hand,
you will win in the long run. If they are lower, you will lose.
What would happen if your opponent bets $4 instead of just $2? The possible benefit would rise to $8 + $4
= $12. But at the same time, your pot odds would turn to $12:$4 which is a ratio of 3:1. Therefore it would
not be profitable to call the bet, since your odds are 4:1 and your pot odds are lower than your odds. At this
point you should fold your hand, otherwise you would lose in the long run.
Equilab - Improve your knowledge of odds and outs

You can get a better understanding of odds and outs, and your chances to win the hand in various
situations, with our free PokerStrategy.com Equilab software. The PokerStrategy.com Equilab can analyse
the range of hands an opponent will likely hold in a given situation, then provide you with equity figures so
you can deduce the profitability of any given situation.
Download the PokerStrategy.com Equilab for free
Summary
Using poker odds & outs, you can calculate if you can profitably call a draw. Outs are cards which complete
your draw. Odds are the winning probabilities to hit an out. In Texas Hold'em odds = outs / possible cards.
Pot odds give the ratio of a possible reward compared to the stake you have to place. They are produced by:
pot odds = possible reward : stake. If the pot odds are higher than the odds of a hand, you will win in the
long run. If they are lower, you will lose in the long run.
The Basics: Implied Odds
You should have already read:
The Basics: Odds & Outs

The pot odds show the relationship between the possible amount to be won and the amount you need to
pay. The amount you can win in this case is the money that is already in the pot.
The implied odds also include within the possible winnings, how much you can win from the following
streets. This concept allows you to call with incorrect pot odds on one street if it can be offset by accordingly
high implied odds. You assume that you can win the required money on later streets.
Using these three steps you can check whether you can call with implied odds:
Calculate what you need to win to call profitably.
Make assumptions about whether you can actually win this amount.
Evaluate the strength of your draw (and discount your outs if necessary).
What amount do you still need to win?

In a lot of cases, you will face a bet on the flop that you can't call with a draw according to pot odds. This
doesn't necessarily mean that you have to give up this hand. It depends on how much you can win if you hit
your draw.
You have a flush draw on the flop and your opponent bets pot size. Since the pot odds are 2:1 you can't call
profitably with a flush draw. For a profitable call you would need pot odds of 4:1.
Now the implied odds come into play. You assume that you will win more money if you hit your hand on the
turn. But how much would that at least have to be?
For this, have a look at when you could call correctly on the flop:
There is $15 in the pot and your opponent bets $5. You therefore get odds of 4:1.
In this case, you get the required odds. Compared to the previous example there is $10 more in the pot.
This $10 is the exact amount you would have to win on the turn and/or river.
In the first example you are getting odds of 2:1 instead of 4:1. You are therefore missing two sets of $5
which obviously equates to the required $10.
Here your opponent uses a bet of 1/2 pot size. You are getting pot odds of 3:1. To get the required pot odds
of 4:1, you are missing $5.
Implied Odds: Current pot + assumed future bets of your opponent : bet you have to
pay
Can you still win this amount?

You now know how much you need to win to make a profitable call. To decide whether you can actually win
this amount in practice, you have to take into account the following factors:
The hand strength of your opponent: when your draw hits, he still has to be willing to stay in the
hand and pay into the pot.
Special attributes of your opponent: what player type is he? A calling station for example will
often take every made hand to the showdown, a maniac might barrel all three streets no matter how the
board develops. In both cases you can give yourself high implied odds
How obvious is your hand? A finished flush is quite obvious for your opponent. Same goes for an
OESD.
If you hit your flush on turn there will be four hearts on the board. It is unlikely that you will be paid off with
a worse hand and could therefore not justify your call on the flop due to implied odds.
Position: You can make better decisions in position than out of position due to the information
advantage. This increases your EV and therefore your winnings.
Also consider that you can give yourself higher implied odds on the flop than on the turn, since there are still
two streets to come.
The effective stack size is also important. If your opponent hasnt got enough of a stack left, it is not
possible to win the required amount.
Evaluate the strength of your draw

The strength of a draw needs to be assessed. Have a look at the last example. You were holding an obvious
draw with
. If you hit on the turn, you not only have the problem that your flush is obvious, but also
a hand that contains the
beats you.
Flush draws and OESDs are strong draws. With weaker draws you have to be careful though:
On the flop, you have two over cards. However, your over card outs aren't "clean". Against hands like TT, 99,
22, T9s, you would still be behind. These hands dominate you.
Hands like JT and 87 are also problematic. If you hit a Jack on the turn, your opponent has also improved
and beats you.
The same goes for hands like AK and AQ, which your opponent can continuation bet on the flop. If there is
an ace on the turn, your opponent will dominate you. You will still have to pay, since you only called on the
flop to hit this exact card.
In such a case, you are paying more money into the pot from the turn onwards with a weaker hand.
Situations like this are referred to as reverse implied odds.
Non clean outs therefore need to be discounted. In this example you should discover that you don't have a
single clean out.
Unclean outs, that don't give you the best hand on the table, cause reverse implied
odds. You therefore need to discount them.
You have a flush draw and an OESD on the flop. This gives you 15 outs.
There isn't any out that will guarantee to give you the best hand on the turn however. In the case of a flush
on the turn, there would not only be four diamonds on the board, but your 4 high flush would never be paid
off by a worse hand.
If you hit the OESD with a ten, you are holding the "idiot end" straight. If a five falls on the turn, you could
potentially have the best hand. It is debatable whether you would be paid off by a worse hand.
You discover that your potential 15-outer is completely worthless. All outs have to be discounted. Should
you hit on the turn, you are far more likely to have reverse implied odds. You are most often going to be
paying money into the pot with a weaker dominated hand.
Summary
Implied odds are modified odds that look at possible future winnings.
Implied Odds: Current pot + future bets from your opponent : bet you have to pay.
This assumption allows you to call a draw on one street with incorrect odds if you can win the required
money on the following streets. The best prerequisites for good implied odds are a weak opponent with a
strong hand, while you hold a hidden draw in position with a sufficiently large effective stack.
Make sure that your outs are clean, and you therefore actually hold the strongest hand when you hit. To
avoid reverse implied odds, you need to discount some outs. Unclean outs should be taken out of your
assumptions to avoid using wrong implied odds. Otherwise you run the risk of taking a loss on future streets
rather than winnings.
The Basics: Why Do You Bet?
There are three possible ways to bet in poker. When betting, your goal is always to make money. You can
accomplish this in three different ways:
The value bet: you bet to get paid by worse hands
The bluff bet: you bet to force better hands to fold
Collecting dead money: you bet to force your opponent to fold a worse hand with outs against you
In this lesson, you will get to know these different types of bets in detail.
The Value Bet

If you place a value bet, you want a worse hand to call.
So if you want to value bet, two things need to be true: your opponent has a worse hand than you, and he
is willing to call.
You are on the flop now and you hit top pair. You think that your opponent's range should contain a lot of
ace hands, and it is obvious that he will have a hard time folding hands like AT, AJ and AQ. You dominate
those hands with AK. You place a value bet to get paid by these hands.
If you bet with K5 against JT on a K43 rainbow flop, that is not a value bet. Your opponent has a worse
hand, but he will hardly ever call.
If you place a value bet, you bet with the best hand and you get called by
weaker hands.
The Bluf Bet

If you make a bluff bet, you bet with the weaker hand in order to get a better hand to fold.
If you bet with A3 on 774 rainbow flop, and your opponent folds KT, you did not bluff bet. Your opponent did
not fold a better hand.
A good example for a bluff bet would be a situation where the flop contains a high card such as an A or K
and your opponent cold called your pre-flop open raise. You put your opponent on a range that contains
many pocket pairs, and you assume that he will have to fold most of them on this kind of board. You did not
hit yourself, but you think that you can get a lot of better hands to give up. You can place a bluff bet in this
scenario.
Placing a bluf bet means betting with a weaker hand to get a better hand
to fold.
Collecting Dead Money

If you are betting to collect dead money, you just bet to win the pot. You also want your opponent to fold his
outs.
Dead money is another term for the money that is already in the pot. At the start of every hand, the blinds
are dead money. As the hand goes on, more chips will join the blinds as dead money when players limp,
raise, call or 3-bet.
Look at the ace high flop in the graphic above. You raised pre-flop. In addition to the blinds, the pot now
also contains the money of your raise and your opponent's call. This is called dead money.
You hold 55. You can't really place a value bet and a bluff bet does not seem wise either. Theoretically,
however, both could be possible. Your opponent could continue possible draws that are beat by your 55 and
he could also fold better hands like 66 or 77 to a bet.
But none of these outcomes is a primary goal. If you bet and your opponent folds, you won the pot and thus
the dead money. Your opponent may have folded a weaker hand with his 76, but he also had 6 outs against
you. By betting on the flop, you do not allow him to see a free turn and hit one of his outs. Therefore you
force him to give up his outs.
When trying to collect dead money, you want to win the pot and get your
opponent to fold his outs.
The Three Types of Bets in Practice

You hold AK and bet the flop:
You put your opponent on the following range:
You value bet against AQ-AT.

That amounts to 24 combos.
You do not value bet against JTs-T9s, because those 8 combos will fold to a bet.
However, you will collect the dead money.
You also cannot value bet against 55 and 33.
These hands represent six combos that are ahead of you.
As you can see, you can't value bet against every hand. But since you beat 24 of his 38 combos and those
combos will also call, your bet is profitable.
Now imagine you want to bluff on this board:
If you give your opponent the same range, you will only get the 8 combos of JTs-T9s to fold. The other 30
combos in his range are not only stronger than your hand, but they will also call a bet. Therefore bluffing will
not be profitable in this spot.
What reasons do not justify a bet?

The aforementioned three types of bets contain all possible reasons to place a bet. All other kinds of bets
can be explained by a combination of the three. You might first think of bets for "protection" or
"information". If you bet for protection, you can achieve two things: your opponent folds his outs and you
win the pot immediately. Alternatively, your opponent can also call and pay the price with a second best
hand. Then you made a value bet.
Summary
There are only three reasons to bet:
A value bet will get called by a worse hand.
A bluff bet should get a better hand to fold.
When collecting dead money, you want to win the pot
immediately and get your opponent to fold his outs.
You should know which of these goals you want to achieve every
time you bet.
Ranges & Equity (1): Introduction to Ranges
If you knew your opponent's hand, then you would be able to make the perfect decision in every situation.
Unfortunately, this is impossible as you will hardly ever be able to definitively put your opponent on one
specific hand. Instead, you can rely on your knowledge, your experience and your observations to put your
opponent on a number of possible hands. We call this collection of hands his range.
A range is therefore a set of hands that a player could be holding in a certain situation. This compilation of
hands could be a number of single starting hands, but it could also be made of certain hand ranks such as
two pairs, sets and flush draws.
If your opponent has a set on a T84 board, his range is: TT, 88, 44.
The concept of ranges is an essential tool if you want to play poker successfully. It allows you
tosystematically write down assumptions about your opponent's possible hands in order to
analyse them. What's more, it is an indispensable instrument to help you in identifying the best course of
action.
This lesson will show you how to define ranges and how to write them down following a generally accepted
convention.
A range is a collection of hands that a player could be holding in a

certain situation!
Defining ranges and writing them down: how does it work and
what's the point?
In order to analyse a hand, you have to write down and summarise the opponent's range in a way that
makes it possible to evaluate it using poker software, like the Equilab.
There is a general convention on how to note ranges down. Knowing and applying it will offer you the
following advantages:
You can exchange information with fellow poker players more easily when, for example, you are
studying hands.
You can identify the probability that your opponent has a certain type of hand (such as flush draws,
sets and top pairs) more quickly.
Analysing ranges with tools like the Equilab is more straightforward; you can work faster and in a
more precise manner.
The following table offers you an overview of the various hand types and how to write them down:
Notation of ranges
Hand category
All pairs
Example range
22, 33, 44, ..., AA
Example range
notation
22+
A sequence of consecutive pairs 44, 55, 66, 77
77-44
A sequence of suited connectors 65s, 76s, 87s, 98s,

T9s, JTs, QJs, KQs, AKs
65s+
A sequence of suited hands
74s, 75s, 76s
74s+
All combinations including an

ace
A2s, ..., AKs,

A2o, ..., AKo
A2+
All combinations of suited aces
A2s, ..., AKs
A2s+
All combinations of offsuit kings K2o, K3o, ..., KQo, AKo
AKo, K2o+
A sequence of suited onegappers
AQs-86s
86s, 97s, T8s, J9s, QTs,

KJs, AQs
Top x% of the strongest starting 5%

hands
There are two rules for the notation of ranges:
88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo
For card sequences with one or more gaps between the lowest and highest card applies: only the
smaller card grows in ascending order until it's directly adjacent to the bigger card. For example, a range of
96+ comprises 96, 97 and 98.
However, for hands with directly adjacent cards without a gap, like 65+, both cards will grow in
ascending order until they reach AK i.e. 65, 76, 87, ..., AK.
Ranges can be given relative to hand strength. If this is the case, then the range will change to reflect hand
combinations in relation to the board. Suppose that you believe your opponent may have a flush draw, his
range would not simply indicate the starting hand but also a concrete suit.
Examples for defining and writing down ranges

The examples will allow you to practice detecting your opponent's range and writing it down.
Example 1: The board is
and your opponent's range is made up of top pairs, OESDs (openended straight draws) and ace-high flush draws. How do you build his range from this information?
First, you write down the hand combinations that reflect the various hand ranks:
Top pair: AQ, KQ, Q9-Q3, QJ (Q2 and QT can be discarded as they would be a two pair)
OESD: KJ, J9
Flush draw: As3s, As4s, As5s, As6s, As7s, As8s, As9s, AsTs, AsJs, AsKs
His complete range thus is: AQ, KQ, Q3-Q9, QJ, As3s, As4s, As5s, As6s, As7s, As8s, As9s, AsTs, AsJs,
AsKs, KJ, J9
Example 2: You might have heard an experienced player answering a question like "With which range
would the opponent call on this flop?" as following:
The Flop was
; I bet big and he calls. He was very passive, so he will call all of his sets and
never raise them. I can however exclude QQ, because he would have pushed it pre-flop; same goes for AA
and KK. I also don't see him folding his good top pairs. His range should include top two pair, too. I'm also
positive that he would call his open-ended straight draw. When it comes to TT and JJ, I'm not completely
sure, but I think he will probably also call those at least once on the flop.
Having read this statement, you should now be able to turn it into a complete range. According to the
convention that you now know, you can write down the opponent's calling range as follows:
Sets: 99, 44
Good top pairs: AQ, KQ, QJ, QT
OESD: JT
Top-Two pair: Q9
Specific Hands: JJ, TT
Combining this, you find the following complete range: JJ-99, 44, AQ, KQ, Q9+, JT
Summary
Ranges are made up of a number of hands that an opponent could be
holding.
There is a generally accepted notation to write down ranges.
Writing down ranges allows you to exchange information with other
players and use software to analyse your hands more easily.
Analysing ranges allows you to make better decisions.
Ranges & Equity (2): Combos & Card Removal
Before this lesson, it is recommended that you read the following article:

You are already familiar with the concept of ranges and know how to notate them. Now let's imagine your
opponent has a range of QQ and AK. Which hand is more likely?
You might assume that each hand is equally likely, since QQ and AK both represent one specific starting
hand.
However, the correct answer is quite different. There is a 27% chance that your opponent has QQ and a
73% chance that he has AK. The reason for this is that the two hands are each made up from a different
amount of poker card combinations - called combos.
Counting combos is necessary to analyze ranges correctly; in this lesson you will learn how to do this. We
will also take a look at how your cards, your opponent's cards, and the board each influence the combos and
the way we count them.
How to count combos for specific hands and ranges

There are four queens in the deck and therefore six possible combinations of cards that give us the hand
QQ. However to make AK, there are 16 possible card combinations. Four aces combined with four kings
gives you 4 x 4 = 16 combinations.
Note that the order of the cards within a combo doesn't matter;
is the same hand as
The sum of all combos for a specific range (or part of a range) is an important factor in assessing how likely
it is that your opponent has a certain hand. The more combos there are in a hand or range, the more likely
it is that you are facing this range and vice versa.
For easy documentation, we use the "#" symbol to indicate the amount of combos that make up a range.
The range QQ, AK has 6 + 16 = 22 combos which means that the short form for writing this is:
QQ, AK (#22)
A combo is a specific combination of two cards that make up a certain hand.

The sum of possible combos for creating a certain hand, or range of hands, is
important information when estimating the hand strength of your opponent
based on his range.
The following table gives you an overview of the number of possible combos for certain categories of starting
hands:
Hand category
Possible combos Example
Pocket pair
QQ
Ofsuit hand
12
AKo
Suited hand
AKs
Suited/ofsuit hand
16
AK
Card removal influences counting combos

Card removal refers to the fact that the dealt community cards and your own hand directly influence the
likelihood of certain hands or the number of combos in your opponent's range.
For example, we know that a pocket pair consists of six combos, and that a specific suited hand consists of
four combos; this can change depending on the community cards that hit the flop. Let's look at the following
situation:
We're assuming our opponent has a range of either sets or an open-ended straight draw, and we want to
determine which is the more likely holding.
Notating ranges isn't an issue for you anymore, so you know his range is QQ, 99, 44, JT.
Given what you have already learned, it is natural to assume that QQ, 99, and 44 have six combos each and
that JT has 16 combos. This makes 18 set combos and 16 OESD combos, making a set more likely.
But this doesn't take the board into account. Cards on the board can't be used in your opponent's range;
villain can't have a card that's already on the table. This effect is called card removal.
Since the
is already on the board, there are only three queens left that could make up QQ as a hand.
This means that there are only three combos that make a set with QQ. There are only nine combos that
make a set with any of the three community cards.
Without card removal
For an OESD on the other hand, a board like

there is no jack or ten on the board.
With card removal (on
still allows for all 16 combos to be available, since
In total, there are 16 combos for an OESD as opposed to 9 combos for a set. Therefore the chances of an
OESD are 64%; 36% for a set.
By determining the exact number of possible combos that make up a certain hand strength utilising card
removal, you can calculate the likelihood of this hand strength within a range. This is a very important tool
to make optimal decisions based on your analysis of the situation.
Card removal includes your own hand

Card removal doesn't just include the cards on the board, but also includes your own hand.
How many combos are there for your opponent to hold QQ in the hand below?
In this situation, there are even fewer queens available for making a set than previously. Due to card
removal, you have to exclude the
on the board as well as the
in your own hand, leaving only
the
and the
- exactly one combo.
The efect of card removal

Card removal doesn't just play a big role in affecting the likelihood of sets, but also when you are facing
hands that are far more common, such as top pair.
On a board such as
there are only 12 instead of the usual 16 combinations that make up a
hand like AQ: 4 aces x 3 queens = 12.
If we assume that you also have a queen in your own hand (maybe
combos left for AQ; 4 aces x 2 queens. If you have an ace yourself, say
for AQ; 3 aces x 3 queens.
), then there are only eight

, there are nine combos left
The following table shows you how card removal influences the possible combos for different hands:
Hand
With card removal on:

You have
Without card removal
You have
AQ
12 8
16
AQs
Q6
16
Q6s
QQ
Summary
Combos are combinations of individual cards that create a certain starting hand. The number of
possible combos is different depending on the type of starting hand:
Pocket pair: 6 combos
Suited hand: 4 combos
Offsuit hand: 12 combos

Card removal means taking into account that community cards and cards in your own hand cannot be
included in your opponent's range. This influences the likelihood of villain holding certain hands depending
on the board and your cards.
Ranges & Equity (3): Equity Introduction
Ahead of this lesson you should have read:

You already know what a range is and how to write it down. Now it's time to learn more about an application
of this concept: Equity.
Equity is a percentage value that indicates how often your hand or range is ahead of your opponent's hand
or range at showdown.
Equity is always a number between 0% and 100%. This means that you could have 0% equity and never
win against your opponent's range or you could have 100% equity and always win against villain's range.
The equities of all players always add up to 100%. If the board runs out in such a way that a split pot
becomes a possibility, the likelihood of this case will be added evenly to all players' ranges.
Equity is a percentage that indicates how often your hand or range is

ahead of your opponent's hand or range at showdown.
How to calculate your equity

In order to get your equity right, you have to do a simulation of all community cards that haven't been dealt
yet and count all possible results at showdown. The percentage of how often your hand or range wins at
showdown is your equity.
When we do a simulation of a pre-flop situation, we look at all possible flop, turn and river cards. In a
simulation of a flop spot, you include all possible turn and river cards into your calculation.
There are more than 1.7 million possible combinations for the five community cards, which means that you
can't do the simulation by hand. That's why there are special tools such as Equilab which lend you a helping
hand to get the job done.
Example: You are all-in pre-flop holding aces with villain holding deuces. Here's a simulation of all possible
combinations of community cards:
As you can see, you will win 82% of the time. Your equity is 82%. Therefore villain's equity is 18%.
The board changes your equity

If you are all-in pre-flop with AA against 22, there is an 82% chance that you will win the pot at showdown.
Now there is a flop of
and villain hits a set.
This flop changes the situation and therefore your equity and you now only have 9% equity. If the turn
brings one of the two remaining aces, your equity goes back up to 98%.
You can see that equity is not a constant and can change significantly with every community card being
dealt onto the board. That's why you have to take every card on the board into account and re-evaluate
your equity on every street.
Your equity depends on villain's hand or range

Your equity also largely depends on villain's range. Let's take a look at the following example. You are
holding 66 and villain has two possible ranges:
Your absolute hand strength is a pair of sixes, but against the two sample ranges, your equity changes by a
significant 35% points. Against range A, you can always get your hand all-in profitably since you win in more
than 50% of the cases, but against range B you should fold pre-flop.
Your equity represents your true hand strength, not your absolute hand strength. You always have to define
your hand strength in relation to your opponent's hand or range. That's why it's called relative hand
strength. All your decisions at the table need to be based on your relative hand strength.
Examples for equity

In the following table there are examples of situations that are common at the table and their equity. Since
Equilab isn't permitted while playing, getting a feeling for equity in different spots is an essential skill for a
poker player.
Equit
y
Example
Pair vs lower pair
AA vs 22
82%
Pair vs two overcards
66 vs AK
54%
2 overcards vs 2 undercards
AK vs 76
62%
1 overcard vs 1 undercard
A2o vs K3o
61%
Flush draw on the flop vs top pair
vs
on
37%
OESD on the flop vs top pair
vs
on
34%
2 overcards on the flop vs top pair
vs
on
24%
If you want to calculate your equity based on outs, you can do so using the following rule of thumb:
1 out - turn to river: ~ 2% equity
1 out - flop to river: ~ 4% equity

Keep in mind that these numbers aren't 100% precise and you need to use the Equilab to get exact
numbers. However, this rule of thumb allows you to get a rough idea of your equity while you are in the
middle of a hand.
Summary
Equity:
Equity indicates how often your hand or range is ahead of

villain's range at showdown.
Equity depends on how the board runs out and villain's range.
You should base all decisions on your relative hand strength
which is the equity of your hand against villain's range.
Rule of thumb: 1 out gives you ~2% equity from turn to river
and ~4% equity from flop to river.
Ranges & Equity (4): Equity: Final Calls
Before this lesson you should have read:
Ranges & Equity (3): Equity Introduction

Your equity is the single most important consideration if you have to decide between calling and folding
when closing the action. This is the case in the following situations:
You are facing an all-in.
Your opponent is betting the river and you don't want to raise.
In these situations, following these three steps will help you to make the correct decision:
Step 1: Calculate the required equity.
Step 2: Put your opponent on a range.
Step 3: Calculate your equity against your opponent's range.
Facing an all-in
$25 NL Hold'em (6 handed)
100BB Stacks
Preflop: Hero is Button with
3 folds, Hero raises to $0.50, SB raises to $2.00, 1 fold, Hero raises to $5.00, SB raises to $25.00 and is allin, Hero?
Step 1: Calculate the required equity

Your required equity is how often you will need to win the pot at showdown in order to make a call
profitable.
Required equity = price of calling / (pot size + price of calling)
Price of calling: The difference between your last raise and the all-in.
Pot size: All the money you can win. Your raises, your opponent's all-in, the blinds.
Remember that you can only win as much money from others as you can put in the pot yourself. So if your
opponent shoves all-in for 200BB and you only have 100BB, you will only be able to win 100BB from him.
In this case, you need 40% equity to make a call profitable. You can find the exact calculation if you click on
the spoiler.
Calculation of the needed equityOpen spoiler
Step 2: Put your opponent on a range

The following range is a good starting point, since many opponents will go all-in with these hands in the
given situation: JJ+, AK
Step 3: Calculate your equity against your opponent's range

Since you are holding QQ in this spot, you have 47% equity against your opponent's range (JJ+, AK). That
is more than the required equity of 40%, so you should call.
If AK was not in your opponent's range, that is if he would only go all in with JJ+, your equity against that
range would be exactly 40%. That would be almost exactly the same amount as the required equity. A call
would break even and thus be unprofitable considering the rake.
If your opponent would only shove all in with QQ+ and AKs, you would only have 29% equity when holding
QQ. That is less than the required equity of 40%, so you should fold.
Facing a river bet

$25 NL Hold'em (6 handed)
100BB Stacks
Preflop: Hero is Button with
2 folds, CO raises to $0.75, Hero calls $0.75, 2 folds
Flop: ($1.90)
(2 players)
CO bets $1.30, Hero calls $1.30
Turn: ($4.50)
(2 players)
CO bets $3.00, Hero calls $3.00
River: ($10.50)
(2 players)
CO bets $7.00, Hero?
Step 1: Calculate the required equity

Required equity = price of calling/ (pot size + price of calling)
The price of calling is $7 and the pot size is $17.50.
Required equity = 7 / (17.50 + 7) = 7 / 24.50 0.29 = 29% equity
Step 2: Put your opponent on a range

Your opponent's betting range on the river could consist of:
Made hands: AA-QQ, 99, 33, AQ
Air (busted flush draws): As2s, As4s, As5s, As6s, As7s, As8s, AsTs, AsJs, AsKs, KsJs, KsTs, JsTs
Step 3: Calculate your equity against your opponent's range

You can use Equilab to calculate your equity. In this example you would have 32% equity. That is more than
the required 29%, which means that you can make a profitable call.
How card removal afects equity

Imagine that you are holding a different hand in the last example: Instead of
.
you are holding
Your hand looks better now, your absolute hand strength has increased.
As you already know, you should always make your decision based on your relative hand strength. So you
have to calculate the equity of your holding against your opponent's range again.
The result: your equity drops from 32% to 26%. Your equity is actually worse and you should fold.
The reason is as follows: because of card removal,
can no longer be in your opponent's range. That
means that you are blocking a good part of your opponent's bluffing range. His range now consists of:
Made hands: AA-QQ, 99, 33, AQ (#20)
Air (busted draws): AsKs, AsJs, As8s, As7s, As6s, As5s, As4s, As2s, AsTs, KsJs, KsTs, JsTs, (#12,
#3)
If you hold
instead of
, your opponent's bluffing range on the river now consists of three
combos instead of 12. Against that range you only have 26% equity, which is considerably less.
So you should fold, despite the fact that your absolute hand strength is actually stronger. The basis of your
decision should always be relative hand strength, that is the equity of your hand against the range of your
opponent.
Summary
If you are facing an all-in or a river bet, you should follow three steps to decide whether to call or to fold:
Step 1: Calculate the required equity.

Required equity = price of calling / (pot size + price of calling)
Step 2: Put your opponent on a range.
Step 3: Calculate your equity against your opponent's range.
The first step when reading hands is to categorize your opponents into distinct player types based on his
playing style. Assigning a certain player type to your opponent will help you narrow down his range.
This lesson will teach you how to differentiate between the five most common player types and their
fundamental characteristics. This information will be useful when adjusting to their playing style.
The five most common player types are:
Calling Station, Maniac, Nit, TAG and LAG
Your Opponents' Characteristics

In order to categorize a particular opponent into a specific player type, you need to analyse the following
properties of his playing style:
Hand selection: Does he play many hands or few?
Aggression: Does he play aggressively or passively?
Number of tables: How many tables is he playing?
Stack size: Does he prefer playing with a full stack?
Erroneous Betting Patterns: limping, minbets, min-3-bets?

A player who plays a lot of hands pre-flop is defined as loose. Someone who plays only few hands before the
flop is defined as tight.
If a player bets and raises often, he's aggressive. However, if he frequently calls and checks, he is
considered passive.
With the help of these characteristics, the five player types can be identified.
The Calling Station

The calling station is a very loose opponent who plays his hands passively.
How do you recognize a calling station?

Calling stations play a lot of hands and are rarely aggressive, even with strong hands. They rarely play more
than one or two tables and will often be sitting at the table with less than a full buy-in.
You can also recognize calling stations through their betting behaviour:
Open limp pre-flop
Min-3-bet pre-flop
Min-check-raise
Call flop, call turn, bluff bet river when checked to
What range does a calling station play?

Calling stations play a wide and thus very weak range. They often limp pre-flop and even call against big
raises with inferior hands like J8o.
How do you play against a calling station?

The correct strategy allows you to play very profitably against calling stations. All you need to do is to follow
these ground rules:
Never bluff a calling station and be very cautious with your semibluffs. This kind of opponent doesn't
fold often enough for your bluff to be profitable.
If you have a good hand, just bet. The calling station won't be bluffing often, so don't try to induce
bluffs.
Try to place thin value bets. The calling station will often find a reason to call with very weak hands,
so even betting with medium-strength made hands is usually profitable.
You will often get free cards from a calling station, so it's a good idea to play your draws passively.
When a calling station is raising, you are usually up against a monster.

Even though calling stations might bluff the river from time to time, especially when their draws have
missed, value betting to extract maximum value is generally the best approach against them.
With a hand such as top pair and a good kicker you should be looking to bet big on all three streets.
The Maniac
This kind of opponent plays a lot of hands and is often overly aggressive, even with weak holdings. His
playing style leads to very high variance, but in the long term, maniacs will lose a lot of money.
How do you recognize a maniac?

The maniac is a loose and very aggressive opponent. You will often see him bet, raise and reraise. Similarly
to the calling station, he will rarely be found sitting on more than one or two tables and will also frequently
have less than a full stack of chips.
A maniac will often display the following betting patterns:
Cold calling an open raise
4-betting when he has been 3-bet
Frequent pre-flop all-ins, even with hands like 99 and AJs
Many open raises and 3-bets pre-flop
Frequent bluffs
Frequently bets and raises very big, possibly bigger than pot size
What range does a maniac play?

Just like the calling station, the maniac plays a very wide and therefore weak range. The difference is that
he plays his hands aggressively. He bets and raises a lot more than average and thus creates a great deal of
variance and - more importantly over the long term - losses for himself.
How do you play against maniacs?

Against a maniac you should:
Play tight.
Try to induce bluffs.
Try to avoid bluffing him.
Lower your standards for a good hand.
Be consistent and have a plan: call down or fold right away.

The maniac is especially weak to lines which induce bluffs. He likes bluffing, so give him the opportunity to
do so. If there is any kind of player where slow playing makes sense at the lower limits, the maniac is that
player.
A maniac frequently bluffs, and hands which you would consider weak against the vast majority of players
may sometimes turn out to be the best hand. You should apply the concept of relative hand strength.
Against a maniac, you will have many situations where you can go broke before the flop with hands such as
99+ and AQ+ without fear. Post-flop, top pair and top kicker is very often going to turn out to be the best
hand.
Try to be consistent and have a plan: either call down on all three streets or fold right away. Your opponent
isn't known for suddenly giving up along the way so do not play as if he will.
Maniacs are very talented at provoking tilt from other players. If you start losing your temper and letting it
affect your play, you should leave the table.
The Nit
This type of player is only active with very strong hands and folds a great deal of the time.
How do you recognize a nit?

Nits play regularly and will often be playing several tables at a time. They almost always sit at the table with
at least 100BB. You can identify them through their tendency to play very few hands and to only show up
with very strong hands at showdown, especailly when there has been a lot of action.
What range does a nit play?

The nit plays a small, tight and strong range.
How do you play against nits?

When playing against nits, you can focus on the following points:
Attack their blinds whenever possible.
Be very careful when they wake up and give you action.
The value of hands with implied odds, especially pocket pairs, goes up against this opponent,
because his stronger than usual range is more likely to pay you off when you make a monster hand.
Continuation bets on the flop are often the only form of bluffing that a nit will commit to. If a nit bets the
turn, you can almost always expect a strong hand. You should, therefore, get out of the way unless you
have a very strong hand.
After betting the flop and turn, you usually cannot bet a hand like top pair top kicker for value on the river
as you will very rarely be getting called by worse hands.
As soon as a nit raises you, you should only stick around and go broke with very strong hands, such as sets
or better.
The TAG
This opponent type plays few hands and uses controlled aggression.
How do you recognize a TAG?

TAG stands for tight aggressive. A tag plays frequently and is usually to be found on several tables. He
almost always has a stack of at least 100BB on each table. Considering that they play a similar style to you,
you should think about how you would go about identifying yourself on the tables. A TAG rarely bluffs and
when he does, it's usually a semibluff.
What range does a TAG play?

A player of this type open raises a very tight range from the early positions and opens up his range as he
moves closer to the button.
How do you play against a TAG?

You can answer the TAGs playing style with an aggressive approach, but you should be selective with how
you proceed. You can attack their blinds, but you shouldn't go overboard.
In general, you should keep this in mind:
The TAG is not your targeted opponent: concentrate on the other players at the table.
The LAG
This player type is looser than the TAG, but not quite as extreme as the maniac. He usually plays his hands
aggressively.
How do you recognize a LAG?

LAG stands for loose aggressive. A LAG is looser than a TAG in his pre-flop game, but also plays
aggressively. It's hard to categorize a LAG at first sight. Early in a session a LAG may look similiar to either a
maniac or a slightly loose TAG.
What range does a LAG play?

LAGs open raise wider ranges from all positions than TAGs and 3-bet more frequently when in position. They
give up on their blinds less frequently and will generally be playing more hands from the big blind.
How do you play against a LAG?

Very few LAGs at the lower limits are really good players. Most of them are just maniacs with slightly tighter
tendencies. They don't throw their money out of the window, but due to their wider hand selection, they will
still have a weaker hand than you on average. However, you should remain careful, as not all LAGs are
losing players and a lot of them are familiar with the basic principles of poker.
Against LAGs, you should:
Play a tighter preflop game than against TAGs.
Steal the blinds less often when a LAG is left to act.
Avoid giving up too easily post-flop, especially on the flop. When you have to make a tough
decision, you should often lean towards calling rather than folding, as the LAGs range is often weaker than
yours.
Don't get involved in pointless rivalries. On average, you will come out with the stronger hand more often
and your profits will come on their own if you keep up a solid game.
Summary
You can identify and categorize your opponents by analysing the following characteristics:
Hand selection
Aggression
Number of tables
Stack size
Erroneous betting patterns
The five most common player types have the following characteristics:
Calling station: Plays a very large amount of hands pre-flop - Passive
Maniac: Plays a very large amount of hands pre-flop - Aggressive
Nit: Plays very few hands pre-flop - Aggressive
TAG: Plays few hands pre-flop - Aggressive
LAG: Plays a large amount of hands pre-flop - Aggressive
The Average Range
You should already have read:

You are already able to assign your opponents to the five different player types, and you know what to pay
attention to when playing them. To get a starting point for your hand reading, you assign your opponents a
certain pre-flop range that they typically play: the average range.
An average range is a range that a certain player type plays pre-flop in

most cases.
To determine this, you have to gather relevant information about a player type systematically. In this lesson,
you will learn how you can do this.
You will also see what the average ranges of the five player types in NL10 look like. These ranges have been
collected by poker experts through database analysis of a couple million hands.
Determining the average range

In order to determine the average range of a certain player type, you proceed position by position. By doing
this, you should find answers to the following questions:
Which hands are open raised by this player type in this position?
Which hands are called following an open raise before him?
Which hands are 3-bet against an open raise before him?

It is helpful to divide up the ranges of your player type into the hand categories of suited hands, offsuit
hands and pocket pairs.
You can get the necessary information regarding the ranges of a player type as follows:
By using tracking software
By exchanging your experiences with other players in the strategy and hand evaluation forums at
PokerStrategy.com
By watching which hands your opponents go to showdown with
Determining the open raise range

To determine the open raise range of a player for a position, you find out the worst hand in each hand
category. By doing this, you set a lower limit for the player's open raise range. All hands better than that are
also in this range.
For example, when you have found out that 55, ATs, KJs, AJo and KQo are the lower limits of the different
hand categories for an UTG open raise of a nit, then his average range for open raises out of UTG is 55+,
ATs+, KJs+, AJo+, KQo.
Determining the 3-bet and the calling range

It is best to determine the calling range and the 3-bet range of a player type simultaneously, since hands
that are 3-betted by your opponent cannot be in his calling range, and vice versa.
Again, start with the lower limit and consider what the worst hand in each hand category is that a player
type will 3-bet for value from a certain position. All hands better than that are then in his 3-bet range.
If the worst hands in each category that a player type will 3-bet for value are TT, AQo, AQs, then his 3-betrange is TT+, AQs+, AQo+.
The calling range of this player type then starts with the best hands that are not 3-betted for value by him.
So if your opponent is 3-betting TT+ for value, then 99 is the best hand of his calling range.
You can determine the lower limit in a similar way to the lower limit of the open raise range of your
opponent, by determining the worst hands in the range of your opponent. His calling range lies in between
these two limits.
So if your opponent calls 22, AJo, KJo, ATs, KTs, QTs, T9s as worst hands in each category and 3-bets TT+,
AQs+, AQo+, his calling range is 99-22, AJs-ATs, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, AJo, KJo+.
Understanding ranges systematically

In order to systemise this process, you should create tables in which you summarise the average ranges of
the most common player types.
These tables could look as follows:
Player Type
Position
UTG
MP
CO
BU
SB
BB
Open raise
Call
3-Bet
Average ranges of the five most common player types in NL10
Average range of a nit in NL10
Average Pre-flop Ranges: Nit
The average ranges in NL10 are the basis for your hand reading and for your own determination of your
opponents' ranges. These average ranges have been determined by experts using tracking software.
Average ranges of a Nit in NL10

A nit stands out other player types for playing very few hands. His ranges are extremely tight; he only plays
the very best hands aggressively. On average, a nit will play only 16% or less of all hands.
From UTG
Open raise range:
Open raise:
55+, ATs+, KJs+, AJo+, KJo+ (11%, #144)
From MP
Open raise range:
Open raise:
55+, ATs+, KJs+, QJs, ATo+, KJo+ ,QJo (13%, #172)
Call and 3-bet ranges:
Call:
QQ-22, AQs+, AQo+ (7%, #98)
3-bet:
QQ+, AKs, AKo (2,5%, #34)
From CO
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A9s+, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, ATo+, KTo+, QJo (16%, #218)
Call:
QQ-22, AJs+, KQs, AJo+, KQo (10%, #130)
3-bet:
JJ+, AKs, AKo (3%, #40)
From BU
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A5s+, K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s-76s, A8o+, KTo+, QTo+, JTo (23%, #310)
Call:
QQ-22, AJs+, KJs+, AJo+, KJo+ (11%, #146)
3-bet:
JJ+, AKs, AKo (3%, #40)
From SB
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A7s+, K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T9s, A9o+, KTo+, QTo+, JTo (21%, #278)
Call:
TT-22, AQs-ATs+, KJs+, QJs, AQo-AJo, KQo-KJo (10%, #126)
3-bet:
JJ+, AQs+, KQs, AQo+, KQo (5%, #72)
From BB
Call:
TT-22, AQs-ATs+, KJs+, QJs, AQo-AJo, KQo-KJo (10%, #126)
3-bet:
Average range of a TAG in NL10
Average Pre-flop Ranges: TAG
The average ranges in NL10 are the basis for your handreading and for your own determination of your
Average ranges of a TAG in NL10

A TAG will attract much attention pre-flop. From an early position, he is just as tight as a nit. The biggest
difference between these two player types is seen in their ranges in steal situations. There the open raise
range and calling range of a TAG is far looser than the corresponding ranges of a nit.
A TAG plays in between 17% and 25% of all hands on average, so about 10% more hands than a nit.
From UTG
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, ATs+, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, ATo+, KJo+ (14%, #190)
From MP
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A9s+, KTs+, QTs+, J9s+, T9s, ATo+, KTo+, QJo (17%, #226)
Call:
QQ-22, AJs+, KQs, AJo+, KQo (10%, #130)
3-bet:
QQ+, AK (2,5%, #34)
These hands can be in both ranges, depending on the respective opponent.
From CO
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, KTs+, QTs+, J9s+, T9s, 98s, 87s, 76s, 65s, 54s, A9o+, KTo+, QTo+, JTo
(23%, #310)
Call:
QQ-22, ATs+, KJs+, QJs, AJo+, KQo (11%, #142)
3-bet:
JJ+, AK (3%, #40)
From BU
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K8s+, Q8s+, J8s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, A2o+, K8o+,
Q9o+, J9o+, T9o (37%, #494)
Call:
QQ-22, ATs+, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, ATo+ KJo, KQo, QJo (14%, #190)
3-bet:
JJ+, AQs+, A5s-A2s, AQo+ (5%, #72)
From SB
Open raise range:
Open raise:
Q9o+, J9o+, T9o (37%, #494)
Call:
TT-22, AQs-ATs, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, AQo-ATo, KQo-KJo (11%, #150)
3-bet:
From BB
Call and 3-bet Ranges:
Call:
TT-22, AQs-ATs, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, AQo-ATo, KTo+, QTo+ (14%, #186)
3-bet:
Comparison of a TAG and a nit

The call and 3-bet ranges of a nit do not differ from those of a TAG. The biggest difference lies in the open
raise range; a TAG open raises significantly more often than a nit, especially in steal situations, meaning at
the CO, BU and SB.
Average range of a LAG in NL10
Average Pre-flop Ranges: LAG
Average ranges of a LAG in NL10

You can identify a LAG by his big open raise and calling ranges in steal situations. His type of play is a lot
more position dependent than that of other player types.
The LAG is the loose big brother of the TAG. The 3-bet ranges of these two differ only very slightly. The
biggest difference are the open raise range and the calling range: the LAG open raises and calls a lot more
than the TAG.
On average, a LAG plays in between 26% and 35% of all hands.
From UTG
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, KTs+, QTs+, J9s+, T8s+, 98s, 87s, 76s, 65s, 54s, ATo+, KJo+, QJo
(20%, #266)
From MP
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, KTs+, QTs+, J9s+, T8s+, 98s, 87s, 76s, 65s, 54s, ATo+, KTo+, QTo+,
JTo (23%, #302)
Call:
TT-22, AQs-ATs, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, AQo-ATo, KJo+ (12%, #158)
3-bet:
JJ+, AQs+, AQo+ (4%, #56)
From CO
Open raise range:
Open raise:
Q9o+, J9o+ (33%, #442)
Call:
99-22, AJs-ATs, A5s-A2s, KTs+, QTs+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, 54s, AJoATo, KJo+, QJo (14%, #192)
3-bet:
TT+, AJs+, K7s-K6s, AJo+ (6%, #86)
From BU
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q2s+, J6s+, T6s+, 96s+, 85s+, 74s+, 63s+, 53s+, 43s, A2o+,
K6o+, Q7o+, J8o+, T8o+, 98o (50%, #666)
Call:
JJ-22, ATs-A2s, KJs-K9s, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, ATo, KJoKTo, QTo+, JTo (18%, #244)
3-bet:
TT+, AJs+, KQs, K5s, AJo+, A2o, KQo (8%, #110)
From SB
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q6s+, J8s+, T7s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, 43s, A2o+, K7o+, Q8o+,
J8o+, T9o (43%, #570)
Call:
99-22, ATs-A9s, KJs-KTs, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, 87s, AJo-ATo, KJo-KTo, QTo+, JTo (13%,
#172)
3-bet:
TT+, AJs+, A5s-A2s, KQs, AQo+, A2o, KQo (8%, #110)
From BB
Call:
99-22, ATs-A6s, KJs-K8s, Q8s+, J8s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, 54s, AJo-A7o, KJoK8o, Q9o+, J9o+ (23%, #312)
3-bet:
TT+, AJs+, A5s-A2s, KQs, AQo+, A2o, KQo (8%, #110)
Comparison of LAG and TAG

The 3-bet range of a LAG and that of a TAG differ only slightly. The biggest difference is in the open raise
range and the calling range: the LAG open raises and calls significantly more in steal situations than the TAG
does.
Average range of a maniac in NL10
Average Pre-flop Ranges: Maniac
Average Range of a Maniac in NL10

The maniac attracts attention with his very wide pre-flop ranges. He does not necessarily raise any two, but
still raises too many hands. His calling ranges are also very wide. On average a maniac plays 30% to 100%
of all hands.
In his 3-bet ranges, you will often find random hands such as A4o or 85s. Certain players of this type will
differ on these points.
From UTG
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q6s+, J7s+, T7s+, 96s+, 85s+, 74s+, 64s+, 54s, 43s, A5o+,
K9o+, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o (38%, #502)
From MP
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q6s+, J7s+, T7s+, 96s+, 85s+, 74s+, 64s+, 54s, 43s, A5o+,
K8o+, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+ (41%, #550)
Call:
TT-22, AJs-A2s, K5s+, Q8s+, J8s+, T7s+, 96s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, AJo-ATo,
KTo+, QTo+ (22%, #290)
3-bet:
JJ+, AQs+, K3s-K2s, 85s, AQo+, A3o-A2o (7%, #92)
From CO
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+,A2s+, K2s+, Q2s+, J6s+, T6s+, 96s+, 85s+, 74s+, 64s+, 54s, 43s, A2o+,
K7o+, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+, 98o, 87o (49%, #646)
Call:
TT-22, AJs-A2s, K4s+, Q5s+, J7s+, T7s+, 96s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, AJo-A8o,
K9o+, QTo+, JTo (27%, #358)
3-bet:
TT+, AQs+, K3s-K2s, 85s, 74s, AQo+, A4o-A2o (9%, #114)
From BU
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q2s+, J2s+, T2s+, 92s+, 82s+, 72s+, 62s+, 52s+, 42s+, 32s,
A2o+, K4o+, Q6o+, J7o+, T7o+, 97o+, 87o (63%, #834)
Call:
99-22, AJs-A2s, K2s+, Q4s+, J7s+, T7s+, 96s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 54s, ATo-A7o,
KJo-K8o, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o, 98o (31%, #412)
3-bet:
TT+, AQs+, Q2s, 95s, 85s-84s, 74s, AJo+, A4o, KQo, 87o (10%, #130)
From SB
Open raise range:
Open raise:
22+, A2s+, K2s+, Q2s+, J2s+, T5s+, 96s+, 85s+, 74s+, 64s+, 53s+, 43s, A2o+,
K5o+, Q6o+, J7o+, T7o+, 97o+, 87o (57%, #754)
Call:
KJo-K8o, Q9o+, J9o+, T9o, 98o (31%, #412)
3-bet:
TT+, AQs+, Q2s, 95s, 85s-84s, 74s, AJo+, A4o, KQo, 87o (10%, #130)
From BB
Call:
KJo-K6o, Q7o+, J8o+, T8o+, 97o+, 87o (44%, #580)
3-bet:
TT+, AQs+, Q2s, 95s, 85s-84s, 74s, AJo+, A4o, KQo, 97o, 87o (11%, #142)
Comparison of a Maniac and a LAG

In terms of basic play type, the maniac is similar to the LAG. In the same way as the LAG, the maniac open
raises very many hands and has wide calling ranges. In this direct comparison you can see that the ranges
of the maniac are a lot wider than those of the LAG.
Average range of a calling station in NL10
Average Pre-flop Ranges: Calling Station
opponents' ranges. These average ranges whave been determined by experts using tracking software.
Average Ranges of a Calling Station in NL10

The calling station is different from all other player types due to his very wide pre-flop calling range, his
small open raise range and his wide limp range. On average, he plays between 30% and 100% of all hands.
There are large differences in the ranges of different players of the calling station type. Sometimes they
raise hands at random such as Q6o or 96s instead of their best hands like AA, KK. Pay attention to these
things in order to estimate their hands even better.
From UTG
Open raise/limp range:
Open raise:
88+, AJs+, KQs, AJo+, KQo (8%, #106)
Limp:
77-22, ATs-A2s, KJs-K2s, Q2s+, J2s+, T5s+, 95s+, 85s+, 73s+, 63s+, 53s+, 42s+,
32s, ATo-A2o, KJo-K7o, Q8o+, J8o+, T9o (41%, #548)
From MP
Open raise:
88+, AJs+, KJs+, AJo+, KJo+ (9%, #122)
Limp:
77-22, ATs-A2s, KTs-K2s, Q2s+, J2s+, T5s+, 95s+, 85s+, 73s+, 63s+, 53s+, 42s+,
32s, ATo-A2o, KTo-K6o, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+, 98o (43%, #568)
Call:
22+, A2s+, K9s+, K3s-K2s, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 98s, 87s, 76s, 65s, A2o+, KTo+,
QTo+, JTo (31%, #410)
3-bet:
QQ+, AKs, AKo (2.6%, #34)
The hands QQ+ and AK can be in both ranges depending on the oppenent. Some calling stations do not
even 3-bet AA on an open raise, but only call with this.
From CO
Open raise:
88+, AJs+, KJs+, AJo+, KJo+ (9%, #122)
Limp:
77-22, ATs-A2s, KTs-K2s, Q2s+, J2s+, T5s+, 95s+, 85s+, 73s+, 63s+, 53s+, 42s+,
32s, ATo-A2o, KTo-K6o, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+, 98o (43%, #568)
Call:
JJ-22, AQs-A2s, K8s+, K3s-K2s, Q8s+, J8s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 53s+,
43s, AQo-A2o, K9o+, QTo+, JTo, T9o (33%, #440)
3-bet:
QQ+, AKs, AKo (2.6%, #34)
From BU
Open raise:
88+, AJs+, A4s, KJs+, K4s, AJo+, KJo+, QJo, Q7o (11%, #154)
Limp:
77-22, ATs-A5s, A3s-A2s, KTs-K5s, K3s-K2s, Q2s+, J2s+, T5s+, 95s+, 85s+, 73s+,
63s+, 53s+, 42s+, 32s, ATo-A2o, KTo-K6o, QTo-Q8o, Q6o, J7o+, T8o+, 98o (43%,
#572)
Call:
JJ-22, AQs-A2s, K8s+, K3s-K2s, Q8s+, J8s+, T8s+, 97s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 53s+,
43s, AQo-A2o, K9o+, QTo+, JTo, T9o (33%, #440)
3-bet:
QQ+, AKs, AKo (2.6%, #34)
From SB
Open raise:
88+, AJs+, A4s-A2s, KJs+, K4s, AJo+, A3o-A2o, KJo+, QJo, Q7o (14%, #186)
Limp:
77-22, ATs-A2s, KTs-K2s, Q2s+, J2s+, T2s+, 94s+, 83s+, 73s+, 63s+, 53s+, 42s+, 32s, AToA2o, KTo-K2o, QTo-Q2o, J4o+, T5o+, 96o+, 86o+, 76o (64%, #844)
Calling stations often open raise with random hands. Depending on the respective
opponent, these hands can be in both ranges.
Call:
JJ-22, AQs-A2s, K2s+, Q2s+, J6s+, T7s+, 96s+, 86s+, 75s+, 64s+, 53s+, 43s,
AQo-A2o, KTo+, QTo+, JTo, T9o (36%, #484)
3-bet:
QQ+, AKs, AKo (2.6%, #34)
From BB
Call:
TT-22, AQs-A2s, K2s+, Q2s+, J2s+, T5s+, 95s+, 85s+, 74s+, 63s+, 53s+, 43s,
AJo-A2o, K8o+, Q8o+, J8o+, T8o+ (44%, #590)
3-Bet:
JJ+, AKs, AQo+ (4%, #52)
Before reading this article, you should have read:
The Average Range

You already know how to determine your opponent's pre-flop range by assigning him to one of opponent
types which you have developed and then looking at average range of this group.
For determining his post-flop range, you use the information that the lines he chooses to play provide. This
can be done with a technique known as the funnel principle. The meaning of this and how it works will be
the subject of this lesson.
The funnel principle

The funnel principle describes how on every street certain hands are "eliminated" from your opponent's
range and therefore, much like a funnel, his range narrows further down as you progress through the hand.
You can use this for your hand reading and estimate villain's hand more precisely on every street.
The basis for hand reading on every street is your opponent's range on the
previous street
Villain's average range is the basis for the analysis of his range post-flop. His flop range has to be part of his
pre-flop range, his turn range has to be part of his flop range and his river range has to be part of his turn
range.
This means that you base your hand reading on every street on your opponent's range of the previous
street. If you assume that villain has a range comprised of draws and top pairs on the turn, but excluded
any sets, there can't be a sudden comeback of sets in his range on the river.
Eliminating hands from villain's range

Think how villain would play his entire range on one street. Which hands would he raise? Which hands would
he call? With which hands would he fold? This way you can eliminate those hands on later streets from his
range that he would have played differently on earlier streets.
If villain only called pre-flop, but you assume that he 3-bets JJ+ pre-flop, there can't be any AA, KK, QQ or
JJ in his range on the flop. This continues on the flop. If he calls there, you can eliminate hands from his
range with which he would have check/raised or check/folded on the flop.
On the flop, this means that villain has the following calling range:
Flop call range = Pre-flop range Flop raise range Flop fold range
In order to determine your opponent's range post-flop, you eliminate all

hands from his total range which do not fit into the lines he played on
previous streets.
Applying the funnel principle street by street

Pre-flop
Example: NL 25 - 100BB stacks
Preflop: Hero is on the Button with XX
3 folds, Hero raises to $1.00, SB (TAG) calls $1.00, 1 fold
Your hand doesn't matter at this point since you only look at villain's range. First you need to assign him to
one of the types of opponents based on his characteristics. Your opponent is seated at the table with 100BB,
plays another four tables and you haven't seen much bluffing from him so far. So far you can assume that
he is a TAG.
The average calling range for a TAG in the small blind is as follows:
TT-22, AJs-ATs, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, AJo-ATo, KJo+ (#134)
Flop
Flop: ($2.25)
(2 players)
SB checks, Hero bets $1.50, SB calls $1.50
Based on your thought process lined out above, you know that villain sees the flop with the following range:
TT-22, AJs-ATs, KTs+, QTs+, JTs, AJo-ATo, KJo+ (#134). Since your opponent called again, you can
eliminate those hands from the range that he would have raised or folded.
Villain would raise strong hands on the flop such as sets to maximize his value and he would also raise
semibluffs such as flush draws to get better hands to fold. Hands that haven't hit anything or weak pairs
would be folded on the flop. That's why you can eliminate these hands from his calling range on the flop.
Fold:
66-44, AJ, AT, QJs, QTs, JTs (#57)
Raise:
3d3h, 3d3c, 3h3c, 2d2s, 2d2c, 2s2c, AsJs, AsTs, QsJs, QsTs, JsTs (#11)
Call:
TT-77, KTs+, KJo+ (#51)
As you can see, you have narrowed down villain's range significantly compared to his pre-flop range. The
funnel is getting smaller.
Turn
Turn: ($5.25)
(2 players)
SB checks, Hero bets $4.00, SB calls
On the turn, you can follow the same principle used on the flop. Villain can call, raise or fold. If he calls, you
can eliminate those hands that he would have raised or folded.
Your opponent won't raise any hands on the turn: all strong hands would have raised the flop and there are
no decent options for a bluff.
Now you have to ask yourself which hands he would fold on the turn. Most likely he would fold TT-77 (#30).
Eliminate these hands from villain's calling range on the turn:
Fold:
TT-77 (#24)
Call:
KTs+, KJo+ (#27)
As a result, you see the following calling range on the turn: KTs+, KJo+ (#27)
River
River: ($13.25)
(2 players)
SB checks, Hero bets $9.00, SB calls $9.00
Since you have already removed sets and flush draws from villain's range on the flop, there are no hands
left on the river that he would raise. He folds KT and KJ, leaving only KQ from his calling range on the turn
that he would call again on the river.
Fold:
KJ, KTs (#15)
Call:
KQ (#12)
Limitations of the funnel principle

The funnel principle is about eliminating hands from villain's range street by street. This means that certain
hands can't suddenly reappear in your opponent's range on later streets.
There are cases, however, where it is possible that hands you have already excluded are likely again based
on villain's actions.
Example:
NL 50 - 100BB stacks
Preflop: Hero is Cut off with
2 folds, Hero raises to $1.50, BU calls $1.50, 2 folds
Flop: ($3.75)
(2 players)
Hero bets $2.50, BU calls $2.50
Turn: ($8.75)
(2 players)
River: ($20.75)
(2 players)
Hero bets $15, BU raises to $40, Hero???
You are playing against a nitty opponent and you assume the following range with which he would make it to
the river: AK, KQ. You have already excluded sets such as 99 and 88 on the flop based on your assumption
that he would raise them either on the flop or, at latest, on the turn.
Now you are faced with a river raise and the only two reasonable bluffs that villain could have are
and
, but you block both of them.
Strictly following the funnel principle, villain could only have AK and KQ which means you have to call.
However, nits would never bluff raise with a made hand. It's more likely that your earlier assumptions were
wrong and that villain chose to call on the flop and turn with 88 or 99 in order to raise the river. That's why
you should fold.
Summary
You start your hand reading based on villain's average range. This range can be narrowed down further
street by street through excluding certain hands from his range based on the lines he plays.
Hands that you eliminate from villain's range on one street can - apart from rare exemptions - not reappear
within your opponent's range.
Following this technique, your opponent's range will get smaller and smaller throughout the hand - just like
a funnel.
Things to Consider at Showdown
You should have already read:
When reading a hand, you start pre-flop by assigning an average range to your opponent according to his
player type. Then you narrow down his range post-flop using the funnel principle. Both processes are based
on assumptions about how your opponent is likely to play certain ranges.
You can put these assumptions to the test at showdown by comparing the range that you expected with the
hand your opponent actually holds. If you recognize a deviation from what you expected, then you should
consider adapting your range accordingly.
In this lesson you will learn how to recognize deviations from average ranges and how to modify these
ranges if needed. You can also gain useful information about your opponent's post-flop range at showdown,
especially concerning his value, bluffing, and calling ranges.
Pre-flop: Pay attention to deviations from average ranges

The average range is the foundation of your hand reading, and it is based on assumptions about what hands
your opponent will open raise, 3-bet, cold call and limp.
Your opponent can deviate from the average range in two ways:
He plays a hand outside of the average range.
He does not play a hand from the average range, or he plays it differently than expected.
Four Tips for Successful Hand Reading
The basics of hand reading that you've already learned: you know the five player types, you can assign
them the average ranges and narrow those down post-flop using funnel principle. You also know by now
what to look for at showdowns.
In this lesson, you will learn four practical tips to improve your hand reading skills:
1. Avoid so-called "mirror thinking" and orientate yourself using the tendencies of the majority of the players
on your limit.
2. Your opponent's bet sizing will often give you valuable information about their hand strength.
3. The reaction time of your opponents also gives you information about their ranges.
4. Take note of the frequency of river bluffs.
Tip 1: Avoid "mirror thinking"

Many players wrongly assume that their opponents play the same way as they do. This is called "mirror
thinking". For example, if they often bluff in a particular spot, they expect their opponents to do the same.
You shouldnt project your range in a particular spot onto your opponent, but rather orientate your gameplay
based on the majority of the players on your limit.
Have a look at the following example:
You are on the BU and call the open raise of a LAG in the CO. After betting the flop and turn, he over bets on
the river.
A lot of players estimate their opponent's range in this spot to be like their own. If they often over bet as a
bluff, they assume their opponent will do so as well and therefore make the call.
If however they seldom over bet as a bluff, they put their opponents on a set or better hand and therefore
fold.
Do not make this mistake, but rather orientate your gameplay to the tendencies of the players on your limit.
Most players hardly ever over bet as a bluff and therefore have a strong range here, consisting of sets and
straights. You should therefore fold.
Tip 2: Pay attention to bet sizing tells

The bet size of your opponent gives you information about their hand strength. Usually the following is true:
the bigger the bet, the stronger the hand.
The maniac in MP has open raised pre-flop and you have the following information on him: with a set or over
pair on similarly drawy boards, he has bet $2 or more up till now. As he has only bet $1.5 this time, these
hands probably arent in his range.
Therefore the value range of your opponent decreases, and his betting range in total is weaker.
The most common bet sizing tells

There are many players who have very consistent bet sizing tells. If you know with which hands your
opponent chooses a particular bet sizing, you can estimate his range far more precisely.
A lot of players make their bet sizes depending on absolute hand strength:
With a middle strong hand like top pair weak kicker or second pair, they bet 1/2 to 2/3 pot size.
With a strong hand like an over pair or top pair top kicker they bet 2/3 pot size.
With the nuts, they bet nearly pot size or more.

If you notice such a bet sizing tell by one of your opponents, you should immediately make a note of it, and
raise more when he bets small. With a weaker range, he will more often fold against your aggression.
Tip 3: Pay attention to timing tells

A timing tell is the information we get from the speed with which an opponent acts. The most reliable timing
tells are the snap-call and the snap-raise, which mean a quick call or raise of a bet.
Other timing tells, as for example the speed with which an opponent 3bets pre-flop, are less reliable. Some
players purposely 3-bet slower with AA or quicker with a bluff.
The snap-call
The most common timing tell is the so-called snap-call. This refers to the quick call of a bet or raise, which
usually implies a weak to middle strong hand.
Only very rarely will your opponent have a strong made hand like two pair or better, or a strong draw. With
these hands, he would take longer to think about his different options: should he raise on the flop? Should
he just call and let you keep bluffing on the turn? With a weak made hand like top pair or second pair
however, his decision is easy; fold or raise are out of the question, so he can only call.
The snap-raise
If your opponent raises quickly, this usually implies a strong hand.
His quick raise implies an easy decision with a hand like 99 or queen jack of clubs (QcJc). With these hands
your opponent doesnt have to think long or weigh up different options. With a bluff like ace jack offsuit
(AJo) he would have to think longer and estimate if you fold often enough.
Additionally his raise size is very big, which also points to a strong hand. You should therefore fold.
Tip 4: Pay attention to the frequency of river blufs

On smaller limits like NL25 and below, many TAGs, nits and LAGs don't often bluff on the river. This is
especially true when a couple of draws miss. You should therefore often fold against river bets and raises.
At this point, players differ widely. Pay attention to how often your opponent bluffs on the river. Especially
interesting is the way your opponent plays when a lot of draws from his range miss.
The value range of your opponent will consist of KJ or better (#46), therefore he must bluff #23 for you to
be able to call. His bluff range consists of #24 missed flush draws as well as OESDs like KQ and 98 without a
flush draw. Together that makes #49.
You would have a profitable call if your opponent bluffs with half his draws on the river. A lot of TAGs on
NL20 however check on the river and don't bluff. If he bets big on all three streets, that speaks for an even
stronger range. You can therefore easily fold.
Summary
Avoid "mirror thinking". Many players assume that their opponents play the same way they do. Instead, you
should orientate your game to the tendencies of the majority of players on your limit.
The bet size of your opponents gives you valuable information to better estimate their range. Usually the
following is true: the bigger the bet, the stronger the range.
The speed with which your opponent acts can give you information about his range. A snap-call usually
points to a middle strong range and a snap-raise usually means a strong range.
TAGs, nits and some LAGs on the lower levels rarely bluff on the river. You should therefore fold to their river
bets and raises often.
Notes
By evaluating the showdown, you have gathered information about your opponent's pre-flop and post-flop
game. In order to use this information as sensibly as possible, you should systematically capture it in notes.
A structured template and abbreviation system increases readability and helps you to quickly find the right
note.
Creating a note template

A template helps you to quickly write down your notes in a consistent structure. You should create it in
advance, so you can utilize it repeatedly. In this way, your notes always take the same form and are clear
and easy to read.
A note should include the following information, which is recommended to be directly adapted into your
template:
In the following game situation, a note could look like this:

$25 NL Hold'em (6 handed) 100BB Stacks
Pre-flop: Hero is Button with
UTG raises to $0.75, 2 folds, Hero calls $0.75, 2 folds
Flop: ($1.85)
(2 players)
UTG bets $1.50, Hero calls $1.50
Turn: ($4.85)
(2 players)
River: ($12.85)
(2 players)
Villain shows:
Use abbreviation systems

Using abbreviations in notes allows you to quickly read and understand them. Quick readability is especially
important, since during a game you have very little time to read your notes. Use a system which works well
for you and is easy to understand. What this ends up looking like is completely up to you.
Special importance should be placed upon the abbreviations for the different board textures here. For this
the following system has proven to be useful:
Abbreviation system for diferent board textures

Board texture
Flop
Turn Rive Abbreviatio

r
n
Rainbow flop
K72r
Twotone flop
K72s
Monotone flop
K72m
Twotone flop with 3rd suit on the river
K72s35s
Twotone flop with 3nd suit on the turn
K72s2s
Twotone flop with 3ed suit on the turn

and 4th on the river
K72s2s5s
Rainbow flop with BDFD on the turn
K72r3s
Twotone flop with BDFD on the

turn and flop flush hits on the river
K72s3ss9s
Twotone flop with BDFD on the

turn and 3rd suit for BDFD on the river
K72s3ss9ss
Other abbreviations could possibly be FD (flush draw), SD (straight draw), BDFD/-SD (backdoor
flush/straight draw). Actions can also be abbreviated: OR (open raise), RR (reraise) and much more is
possible. Here you should create your own easily readable system.
Sort notes by situations
The amount of information becomes confusing with an increasing number of

notes. To prevent this, use a system which sorts notes by situations and thereby allows you to quickly find
the right note. The following system of classification of three different situations has proven to be useful:
As PFR = Your opponent is the pre-flop aggressor in a single raised pot.
As caller = Your opponent called an open raise or limped and called after that.
RR = Reraised pot: your opponent played in a pot in which happened a reraise, either as a caller or
as the pre-flop aggressor.
You can either use these categories as headlines and all notes below belong to that category, or you can
write a shorthand symbol in front of each note, such as [AsPFR].
By using this system, you can quickly find the right information during the game. If you for example open
raised and your opponent called, you can read through all the notes that start with [As caller].
At the end of each session, you should check if you have made multiple notes for one player with identical or
very similar content. These you can possibly summarize clearly.
Describe your opponent's actions

The note you create after the analysis of the showdown should include the following information:
Description: Your opponent's action(s)
Conclusions and hypotheses: What you learn about your opponent (his game)
Adaption: Possible future adaptions against this opponent

First, you describe your opponent's action(s) and in the next step you make conclusions and hypotheses. In
the last step, you note how to play him in the future based on this information.

You note down your opponent's actions on each street and summarize them afterwards:
Pre-flop:
Your opponent open raised 54s from UTG. If 54s is good enough for him to open raise, he will probably also
open raise better suited connectors, that is 54s+. You can write down the note:
- Open raise 54s+ UTG
On the flop:
Your opponent c-bets a gutshot on a dry A83 board that allows hardly any draws:
- C-bets gutshot (54s) 80% PS on A83r UTGvsBU
"PS" here means "pot size": your opponent almost bet pot size or exactly bet 80% PS. Additionally, you
should note which positions play against each other.
On the turn:
Your opponent hits a backdoor flush draw on the turn and double barrels 80% pot size.
- Double barrel A83r3s with backdoor flush draw (54s) 80% PS
On the river:
Your opponent does not hit and bluffs a third time with a large bet size: he triple barrels.
- Triple barrel A83r3s7 missed backdoor flush draw (54s) 80% PS
Summarize the gathered information

If you summarize the gathered information, your note could look as follows:
Make statements regarding your opponent's game

In this step, you make conclusions and hypotheses regarding your opponent's game that effect or might
effect of the analysis of the showdowns.
A possible conclusion of this hand could be that your opponent bluffs too much. Though you only saw one
hand, it could be a hint towards this.
- Triple barrel 80% PS Axxr with backdoor flush draw on blank runout when misses -> bluff happy?
The question mark at the end of the statement tells you that you are not sure yet. It is still a presumption.
In the future, you should pay more attention to how often your opponent bluffs in order to verify or falsify
your presumption. As soon as your read has proven to be true, you can erase the question mark. If the read
is proven false, just erase the hypothesis.
Additionally, the bet sizing is interesting: he c-bets very large, that is 80% pot size. If he always c-bets this
large, you do not gain information through this. But as soon as you see him c-betting smaller with other
hands, the read on how large he c-bets with his draws is very valuable.
- Triple barrel 80% PS Axxr with turned backdoor flush draw on blank runout -> bets bigger with air?
The second part of your note is a possible conclusion from this that you still have to confirm: in the future,
you pay closer attention to his bet sizing with different hands.
Note adaptions as orders of actions

When reading a note, you have to comprehend with one look how to adapt your game to your opponent:
should you call/raise/3-bet more or less, etc.? Make a clear order of action for yourself and place the basis
for this up front:
-> Bluff happy -> calldown lighter
Your opponent bluffs a lot and therefore you call him lighter. In this case, you already know that your
opponent bluffs a lot. Since you still miss this security in the example hand, here you can not yet formulate
secure adaptions and would mark them with a question mark.
Your entire note would look as follows:

As PFR: - open raise 54s+ EP - Triple barrel dry Axx with turned backdoor flush draw on blank runout ->
Bluff happy? -> Calldown lighter? -> Bets bigger with air?
Summary:
In order to be able to quickly read your notes during the game, you should create a template, use
abbreviation systems and sort the notes by their situations:
As PFR = Your opponent is pre-flop aggressor in a single raised pot.
As caller = Your opponent called an open raise or limped.
RR = Reraised pot: your opponent plays in a pot in which a reraise happened, either as a caller or
as the pre-flop aggressor.
You should keep the following information in a note:
Conclusions and hypotheses: What you learn about your opponent's game
Adaption: Possible adaptions to your opponent based on the gathered discoveries
Exploits (1): Auto-Profit
Auto-profit is an exploit which takes advantage of your opponent folding too often. Starting at a certain fold
equity, you can bet and raise with every hand profitably.
In this lesson, you will learn to recognize auto-profit situations, when auto-profit is most important and how
to continue playing after a call.
Auto-profit is a bet or a raise that is profitable with every hand due to

fold equity.
Finding auto-profit spots: Compare fold equities

In order to determine whether or not you have auto-profit in a situation, you calculate and compare the
required fold equity with the actual fold equity.
Step 1: Calculate the required fold equity

The required fold equity tells you in what percentage of all cases your opponent has to fold for you to have
auto-profit. You calculate it as follows:
Required fold equity = Bet size / (Bet size + Pot size)
Step 2: Calculate the actual fold equity

The actual fold equity tells you how often your opponent actually folds. You calculate it by dividing the
number of fold combos by the total number of combos:
Actual fold equity = #Fold / #Total
If the actual fold equity is greater than or equal to the required fold equity, you have auto-profit in that
situation and you can profitably bet and raise.
You have auto-profit in a situation if the actual fold equity is greater

than or equal to the required fold equity.
Use stats to determine the actual fold equity

Stats can be helpful when determining the actual fold equity. Particularly, this is true pre-flop for the "fold to
3-bet" value and the "fold to steal" value. Always use the specific values for the situation you are in.
For example, if you are thinking about 3-betting against the BU out of the SB the general "fold to 3-bet"
value is not specific enough and you should use the specific value for this situation instead.
Also, post-flop stats such as "fold to continuation bet", "went to showdown" and "fold continuation bet to
raise" are helpful in determining the actual fold equity.
Especially post-flop, you should pay attention to the following: the higher the skill level of your opponent,
the more the frequency of him folding will depend on the respective situation. This includes the board
texture, the stack sizes, the positions of the players involved and other factors.
Typical auto-profit situations pre-flop and post-flop

Pre-flop, auto-profit is possible in many situations. In the following table, you find typical situations and the
corresponding required fold equities:
Auto-profit pre-flop
Situation
Bet size
Pot size
Required fold equity
CO open raise: 3bb

Hero's (BB) 3-Bet: 10bb
9bb
13.5bb
67%
BU open raise: 2bb

Hero's (SB) 3-Bet: 7.5bb
7bb
10.5bb
67%
Hero (BU) open raise: 2bb

BB's 3-Bet: 8bb
Hero's 4-Bet: 20bb
18bb
28.5bb
63%
The most commonly occuring auto-profit situation post-flop is the continuation bet. Depending on the size of
your bet, it must work at different frequencies. In the table below, you will find different bet sizes and the
corresponding required fold equities:
Auto-profit post-flop
Continuation bet size
Required fold equity
1/2 pot size
33%
2/3 pot size
40%
3/4 pot size
43%
Pot size
50%
Auto-profit pre-flop: SB open raise
Many opponents fold so often in the big blind that you can profitably open raise with every hand out of the
small blind first in. In order to calculate how high the folding frequency of the BB must be for an open raise
with 72o to be profitable, you use the known formula:
2.5bb / (2.5bb + 1.5bb) = 2.5bb / 4bb = 0.625
Your opponent must fold pre-flop in more than 62.5% of all cases for you to have auto-profit. If your
opponent calls or 3-bets less than 37.5% (100% - 62.5%) you can open raise any two cards, which includes
72o, and you are encouraged to do so.
Notice that in this example you do not invest 3bb but 2.5bb since you already posted the small blind (3bb 0.5bb = 2.5bb).
Auto-profit post-flop: Continuation bet on the flop

NL20 6-max Game
100BB Stacks
BU: TAG
Pre-flop: Hero is CO with
Flop: ($1.5)
Hero bets $1
(2 Players)
You risk $1 in order to win $1.50. Putting these values in the formula for the required fold equity, you get:
Required fold equity = $1 / ($1 + $1.50) = 40%
So if the actual fold equity is 40% or higher, you can profitably continuation bet.
To calculate the actual fold equity, you must first assign a range to your opponent. Your opponent is a TAG
and you assign the following average range to him pre-flop:
Average range TAG on the BU: JJ-22, AQ-AT, KQ-KJ, KTs, QJ, QTs, JTs (#124)
Out of this range, he folds the following hands on the flop:
Call or raise:
JJ-44, AQ, KQ, QJ, QTs (#72)
Fold:
33-22, AJs-ATs, KJs-KTs, JTs, AJo-ATo, KJo (#52)
His total range consists of 124 combos. Out of that, he folds 52 on the flop. Your fold equity therefore is:
Fold equity = #Fold / #Total = #52/#124 = 42%
Your opponent folds 42% of his range. Since your opponent only needs to fold in 40% of all cases for you to
have auto-profit, you can continuation bet your entire range as a bluff, including AJo.
Continue playing only strong hands after a call

It is important to continue playing very carefully and with a strong range after an unsuccessful steal
attempt.
If your opponent folds so much that you automatically make profit with a bet or a raise, then the range he
continues playing with is strong. So do not give away the profit you achieved with the steal by bluffing too
much on later streets against a strong range.
Summary
When you have auto-profit in a situation, your opponent folds so often that you can profitably bet or raise
with any two cards.
Using the following formula, you calculate the fold equity required for auto-profit:
If your fold equity exceeds this value, you can bluff with every hand in your range. You calculate the actual
fold equity as follows:
Fold equity = #Fold / #Total
After an unsuccessful steal attempt, you should continue playing very carefully and with a strong range.
Exploits (2): Thin Value Betting
Thin value betting is an exploit that takes advantage of the overly wide calling ranges of your opponents.
In this lesson, you will learn how to identify this mistake in your opponents' play, and with which hands to
extend your value range in order to exploit it.
Finding overly wide calling ranges in your opponent's play

In order to recognise situations in which the extension of your value range as an exploit is useful, you need
to determine the calling range of your opponent in a particular situation. This can be done in two ways:
Evaluating showdowns
Analysing stats
Identifying overly wide calling ranges with the help of showdowns

At the showdown, you need to pay particular attention to the worst hands in your opponent's range and how
many streets he calls with these hands. You are looking for deviations from your assumptions about his
standard calling range.
Since TAGs and LAGs usually adjust their playing style to the situation, you should pay attention to the
specific circumstances and limit your assumptions to them.
The most important factor for your opponent's range is the composition of your perceived range. This means
how many bluffs and how many value hands it includes. For example:
The higher the proportion of bluffs in your perceived range is, the wider your opponent will call.
The higher the proportion of value bets in your perceived range is, the less your opponent will call.
$25 NL Hold'em (6 handed) - 100BB stacks
BU - TAG
Flop: ($1.85)
(2 players)
Turn: ($5.25)
(2 players)
River: ($13.25)
(2 players)
If your opponent calls in this situation with a hand like T8s or 77, it is likely that he calls too much after a
couple of draws miss. He estimates the proportion of bluffs in your perceived range to be high.
Therefore you should, in future, value bet thinner against this opponent in situations where your perceived
range includes many draws.
Identifying overly wide calling ranges with the help of stats

Stats can also help you estimate your opponent's calling range. Especially relevant are the "fold to c-bet"
stats on all streets and the WTS value.
If the "fold to c-bet" value on any street is less than 40%, you should widen your value range. This is also
the case when the WTS value is over 35%.
Exploiting overly wide calling ranges with thin value bets

You can exploit the overly wide calling ranges of your opponents with thin value bets. Which hands in
particular these are depends on the calling range of your opponent.
Which hands to widen your value range by

You gradually widen your value range in relation to your opponent's calling range; the more your opponent
calls, the more hands you can value bet that you would usually check with.
In order to be able to value bet a hand, you need 50% equity against the calling range of your opponent.
Against the wider calling range of your opponent, hands that you would usually check have over 50% equity
and you can therefore value bet them.
The first hands that you value bet additionally are the best hands that you would normally check. If you
normally only value bet TPTK or better and check TPGK, then TPGK is the first hand that you value bet if
your opponent calls more.
$25 NL Hold'em (6 handed) - 100BB stacks
BU TAG
Flop: ($1.85)
(2 players)
Turn: ($5.25)
(2 players)
River: ($13.25)
(2 players)
You assume that your opponent calls on the river with the following hands: JJ, TT, A9s
Therefore, the worst hand that you normally value bet is JJ, and the best hand that you would normally
check is TT.
Value range:
JJ+, 99-88, 33, A9s, A3s, AsKs, AsQs, AsJs, AsTs, As8s, As7s, As6s, As5s, As4s,
As2s
Best hands in the checking range:
TT, K9s
If your opponent additionally calls with 89s and 77, you therefore value bet the first hand that you would
normally check with, TT. If your opponent also calls with T8s, 87s, 66, you can also value bet K9s. You
gradually extend your range in relation to your opponent's calling range.
Standard callin range:

JJ-TT, A9s
Overly wide calling range:
77-66, T8s, 98s, 87s
Summary
If your opponent calls too much, you exploit them by widening your value range, this is called thin value
betting.
To find out whether your opponent makes this mistake, you particularly need to pay attention at showdowns
to note which hands are the worst ones in his calling range.
The more hands your opponent calls with, the more hands you can thin value bet. You therefore extend your
range by the best hands that you would normally check with.
Short-handed Theory
Video: Click here
Introduction
In this article
Short-handed Theory
Articles to help you improve your game
Factors that can influence your play
Your first experiences in poker should be made at the full-ring tables. But once you have spent enough time
there, you will reach the point where you are ready for short-handed play (no more than 6 seats at the
table).
This article will introduce you to the basics of short-handed play. You will also be given a number of other
articles that go into further detail.
More action
You can expect to find a lot more action at short-handed tables. This is simply because you have 5
opponents at most. You will have to play with weaker hands more often to stay in the game.
You have to learn to play with a marginal hand. There aren't many hands you would raise with out of early
position in a full-ring game, but will need to play significantly weaker starting hands when you are
short-handed.
You can't avoid the action until you have a strong starting hand. You can't be afraid to show
aggression and attack the blinds.
Before the flop - Your image

You can find a number of practical examples of pre-flop play and theory in the pre-flop articles. You find links
below.
Your image is a decisive factor! You can't sit back and bide your time waiting for a strong hand before you
get involved like you do in a full-ring game! In fact, you can't even follow a chart when you are shorthanded, since your play depends so heavily on factors other than your own two cards.
When it comes to short-handed play, you want to be aggressive and to keep the initiative on the flop.
LINKS
Pre-flop:
Before the Flop - Basics
Before the Flop - When Should You Raise?
Before the Flop - When There Was a Raise Before You
After the flop - tougher decisions

A lot of people will tell you there isn't much difference between full-ring games and short-handed play after
the flop. This isn't really true. Knowing your opponent's "range" becomes very important. This is usually
pretty easy in a full-ring game. You can imagine what a tight opponent might have after limp/calling from
early position, and what it means if he then 3-bets on the flop.
Putting your opponent on a range is more difficult in short-handed play. An open limp is usually a sign of a
weak player. If a good player wants to play a hand, he open raises. Anyone acting behind him is more likely
to 3-bet. You can imagine how much wider the ranges must be.
You will rarely be able to interpret a 3-bet correctly. It could be a good hand, a marginal hand, or even a
bluff. Bluffs are much more common in short-handed play. There is usually no way around it.
If you are sitting behind an aggressive player who open raises every hand, you are going to have tostand
up to him. Your opponent will read you like an open book if you keep folding until you have a strong hand.
You are basically forced to throw in a 3-bet with a marginal hand now and then, preferably with a hand that
won't be dominated if you get called. The articles below teach you how to play on the flop, turn and river.
LINKS
Flop:
Flop - Basics
Flop - When Should You Play Aggressively?
Flop - When Should You Play Passively?
Turn:
On the Turn - Theory
On the Turn - Put to Practice
River:
On the River - Theory
On the River - Put to Practice
Know your opponent

You need to pay more attention to your opponents and try to put them on hand ranges. Your post-flop play
depends heavily on the range you assume to be facing. Standard contibets are not very effective, since you
will usually get called.
Your opponents can't wait for a good hand any longer than you can. This makes "set mining", which is a part
of many tight players' full-ring game, a meaningless effort.
Limp/calling with small pocket pairs won't be profitable in the long run, since you need to hit a set to start
any action after the flop.
Statistics become increasingly important. Of course, you should always be paying attention to your
opponents, even when you're not involved in the hand, but this is rarely possible.
A stat program, such as Holdem Manager 2 or PokerTracker 4 can take a lot of work off your shoulders and
help you estimate your opponent's range more accurately.
A pre-flop raise, which would signal a very strong hand at a 10max table, this simply means that a
player doesn't have implied odds in 6max.
If you play passively at 6 max table, your opponents will know you have a very strong hand when you
suddenly do show aggression. You won't be able to stack your opponent often enough to make your strategy
profitable. This is why you have to show aggression with marginal hands on the flop, as well.
ADJUST YOUR STARTING HAND RANGE - MORE SHOWDOWNS
The "theory" of post-flop play doesn't change much, but you have to pay close attention to your opponent. A
flop raise doesn't necessarily indicate a strong hand; it can easily be a bluff or semi-bluff.
As a result, certain hands can be taken to the showdown more often. You will find more aggressive
opponents at 6max tables. You will have to adjust your game to the more aggressive nature of short-handed
games.
If, for example, you are facing an opponent who often raises with a draw, you can protect your top pair to
the point of going all-in on the flop.
If the board is drawless, you should tend to see yourself way ahead/way behind and call down. You can and
should tend to play somewhat more loosely than you would in a full-ring game.
Balancing and deception

This is an important part of balancing your lines and your deception. You don't want your opponents to
be able to read you (deception) and know what kind of hand you are on. Deception isn't as important of a
part of your full-ring game, since you will usually be more concerned with your own hand at a 10max table.
Naturally, your opponents at a 6max table will question whether or not you actually have a strong hand and
will adjust their game accordingly. This requires you to take an opponent orientedapproach. You won't find
yourself making automatic decisions, but rather analyzing the situation at hand and asking yourself what
your opponent might have.
There are two important points to keep in mind when putting this to practice:
First of all, you should play fewer tables. Making autocalls, raises etc. when multi-tabling in full-ring games
without having a specific read on your opponent is one thing, but it's impossible to do so at a short-handed
table. You should always be able to keep an eye on the table action and your individual opponents.
Observe how your opponents react in specific situations. These reads will help you the next time you are
playing against that opponent.
Variance vs. bankroll management

One of the main problems with short-handed games is greater variance. This might not impress you much,
but variance can have an effect on many aspects of your poker game.
This could be tilt! If bad beats tend to bring out an outburst of emotion or if losing your stack throws you off
key, you will run into trouble at the 6max tables (at least in the beginning). Losing stack after stack isn't
unusual.
You will run into a lot more situations in which you have to play for an entire stack with a marginal hand at
6max tables; there's simply no way around it.
This becomes a serious problem when you lose sight of your A game and begin making uncontrolled
decisions. It's easier to make a lot more expensive mistakes. Try to stay calm in these situations and read
the Psychology articles on tilt. They can help you diagnose a tilt phase and help you get out of it.
A combination of greater variance and the fact that players tend to lose discipline when the stacks are flying
back and forth lead us to the well-loved subject of bankroll management.
Bankroll management has a number of purposes, but the most important one is, as always: not going
broke! This is what keeps you alive throughout the inevitable downswings that every poker player has to
deal with.
Don't let a tilt phase cost you a significant portion of your bankroll!
Of course, bankroll management can also help you stay off tilt. Play at a limit where losing a couple of
stacks won't set you back too much. You know these losses are an unavoidable part of the game, so don't
let them get to you.
You should always have at least 25 stacks when playing short-handed. If, however, you aren't the most
disciplined player, you should have a few more. And even after you have gained experienced, never play a
limit with less than 25 stacks in your bankroll.
What's left to say? Short-handed games are growing in popularity, you'll probably end up playing it sooner
or later.
You can find a lot of weak players at 6max tables. They like being in the hand (rarely fold before the flop)
and like the action. Full-ring tables are usually too slow for them.
Aside from facing more weak opponents at 6 max tables, you will also be able to find a larger number of
short-handed tables. You will find more 6max than 10max tables available, especially as the limits
increase.
Of course, you can always rely on the old truth, "Seek and you will find." There are full-ring tables at higher
limits. But at some point you will probably be curious and want to give short-handed play a try ... and you
might get hooked.
Conclusion
This article has shown you some of the basic differences between short-handed and full-ring play. Of course,
when it comes to picking a game, go with the one that is the most fun for you.
If you've been playing full-ring for quite some time, you may want to give 6max a try. Just be sure you
haven't missed anything in this article and give the pre-flop and post-flop articles a read before you get
started.
Short-handed: Pre-flop Basics

Introduction
In this article
Strengths and weaknesses of an open raising chart
When you should deviate from the indicated ranges
When you should be 3-betting yourself and how to play against 3-betting opponents
In this article, you will acquire some basic and important knowledge about playing before the flop on tables
with 6 or less players. The dynamics of playing shorthanded are fundamentally different from playing full
ring. The goal is to understand the differences in preflop playing and to put them into practice.
With the help of this open raising chart and the analysis of selected hands you will learn how to adjust your
ranges to find a profitable entry into playing shorthanded.
Finally, you will learn some basics for your behaviour regarding 3-bet pots.
Why use an open raising chart (ORC) ?

The general arguments for and against charts have been thoroughly discussed elsewhere and will not be
dealt with in this article. We will concentrate on introducing the ORC for shorthanded no-limit, and its
strengths and weaknesses.
The chart is a starting point from whereon you develop your game. Thus it is merely a tool to help
inexperienced players in the beginning.
The more experienced you get and the more you analyse individual situations, the more your game will
develop away from the chart towards your very own style. A chart is never the optimum solution because
the individual situation in poker is well above general rules.
The chart's purpose is to guide you through your first hands and to provide you with a solid overview of the
game. To start with, we suggest you follow the chart closely, but always be aware: the more experienced
you get, the more often will you find yourself in situations, where the game of the highest EV will not be the
game of the chart.
The ORC
Standard table short-handed:
UTG
MP
CO
BU
SB
Pocket pairs
22+
22+
22+
22+
22+
AX
AJo+
ATs+
AT+
A9o+
A6s+
A2+
ATo+
A6s+
Kx
KQ+
KJ+
K9+
K8o+
K7s+
K9+
Qx
Q9o+
Q9s+
Q8o+
Q7s+
Q9+
Jx
J9+
J8o+
J7s+
J9o+
J8s+
Connectors
78o+
56s+
45+
67s+
One-gappers
T8s+
79+
UTG
MP
CO
BU
SB
Pocket pairs
22+
22+
22+
22+
22+
AX
AT+
A9+
A2+
A2+
A2+
Kx
KJ+
KJ+
K8o+
K7s+
K2+
K8o+
K7s+
Qx
QJo+
QTs+
Q8o+
Q7s+
Q8o+
Q2s+
Q8o+
Q7s+
Jx
J8o+
J7s+
J8o+
J5s+
J8o+
J7s+
Connectors
56s+
56s+
45+
45+
45+
Maximum table short-handed:
One-gappers
79+
79+
79+
UTG
MP
CO
BU
SB
Pocket pairs
66+
66+
22+
22+
22+
AX
AQ+
AJs+
AJ+
A9o+
A7s+
A9o+
A2s+
AT+
Kx
KQ+
K9+
K9o+
K8s+
KT+
Qx
QTo+
Q9s+
Q9o+
Q8s+
QT+
Jx
J9+
J8o+
J7s+
JT+
Connectors
T9s+
45+
One-gappers
T8s+
79+
Minimum table short-handed:
The chart as PDF file
How to use the ORC

There are three different ranges: the standard range, the loose range and the tight range. You will have to
decide for yourself, whether you will want to raise loosely, tightly or just the average amount in any situation
that presents itself to you.
You should use the respective range for open raising, depending on how you judge your table. At a very
loose table you should rather play tight, and at a tight table, you should open raise loose. In doing so, no
explicit statement is made about your game after limpers or open raises.
Once you have made up your mind about a range, the subsequent action is quite simple: You raise the
hands first in that are listed and fold all others. The size of your raise should be 4BB in the beginning;
alternatively you may also raise only 3BB when you are on the button.
Some explanations regarding the ranges

The range in the standard-table should correspond to the standard poker table. You will find a good mixture
of value hands and deceptive hands, which mainly profit from initiative and position. You should select this
range when:
you are not able to judge your opponents any further
there are neither reasons for a looser raise nor reasons for a tighter raise (e.g. average opponents
behind you)
there are equally good reasons for a loose or a tight raise (e.g. a very tight TAG as well as a very
loose TAG/LAG at the blinds)
You should deviate for the following reasons:
Looser raises:
Your opponents are very tight and fold a lot pre- and postflop.
Your opponents are very bad players and allow you to win a lot of money from them postflop. At the
same time, they are able to fold their hands.
Short-term reasons (very tight playing in the last hands, tight image).
Tighter raises:
Your opponents are playing aggressively back at you.
Loose shortstacks are sitting at the blinds.
Short-term reasons, such as loss of image (just lost a pot/showed a bluff/loose image).
This is of course not a complete list of possible reasons why you may deviate from the standard range. You
will have to get a feeling for this over time. There are other specific situations when you should adjust your
ranges, such as:
Very bad calling stations at the blinds:
It will not pay off here to steal any trash at random. At the same time value hands are much more
profitable.
Players who cold call a lot of medium strong hands:
To avoid domination here, it will pay off to raise more deceptive hands with clean pairs instead of
dubious value hands.
Many relatively tight and reasonable players:
In this case it will pay off to raise deceptive hands early in the game.
As you can see now, this chart does not at all specify the perfect range for you in a specific situation. As
already mentioned earlier, it is just a guideline.
Limpers
There is no chart for this case. The situations here, just as in full ring, are too diverse to deal with them
conclusively in a chart. You will have to decide, using similar criteria as in stealing blinds, whether it will pay
off to attack the additional dead money or not.
There are players against which you may raise almost as much as against the blinds, and there are players
against which this would be highly unprofitable. As a general rule of thumb, you should ask yourself some
questions (similar to those you would ask when stealing blinds):
Is your hand stronger than the range of the limper?
Is the limper going to fold often after a raise?
Will you often find yourself in a heads-up situation with the limper (also consider the blinds here)
and can he fold postflop?
Is the effective stack size sufficient for postflop play? Are you able to place a continuation bet?
Based on the answers to these questions you will have to decide for or against raising.
3-Betting
Something important first off: Don't change your 3-betting behaviour too abruptly. You should become
accustomed to the new dynamics in 3-betting slowly. Put the suggestions made here into practice one by
one. This way you will avoid heavy losses due to your inexperience.
Now, this section will deal with playing against thinking and good players. It should be obvious to you that
when playing against very weak opponents, you do not have to pay attention to the spread of your range in
a specific situation. This is assumed, and will not be mentioned again.
No chart can be designed for 3-betting in shorthanded games due to the dynamics of these games. In this
case it is important to assess correctly whether the current hand in the current situation requires a re-raise.
Generally you will have to distinguish between the different goals of your 3-bets.
3 Bets for Value:
You have the best hand and expect calls or 4-bets from weaker hands.
Deceptive 3-Bets:
Your hand is not the best, but your expected value is positive because of:
the folding of stronger hands.
the winning of larger pots upon hits.
the expansion of your 3-betting range (this will only have some effect in the future).
To play a 3-bet for value, your hand should be better than the range that your opponent is probably playing.
You can always 3-bet QQ+, AK (but you do not always have to!) or even TT, JJ or AQ.
Moreover, you should know how you would react to a 4-bet or a call if you want to 3-bet for value. It is quite
possible that you would 3-bet for value with a hand that you would fold upon a 4-bet. And that is when you
expect your opponent to call your 3-bet with a range which you are ahead of, but he 4-bets with a range
against which you cannot go profitably all-in.
It is also possible to 3-bet a wider range for value against loose opponents. You will have to decide that for
yourself.
All 3-bets that do not fall into the category of 3-bets for value, pursue several goals. For one, expanding
your general 3-betting range. You are not so easy to read. As a result, thinking players will have a harder
time playing against you. Your ranges will not be so easily seen through. Thus you will get more money into
the pot when you have a strong hand.
Ranges for deceptive 3-bets

So now it remains to define an acceptable range for deceptive 3-bets. Suitable hands are those that will not
be dominated in case of a call and have a high potential to be a hand, with which you would play for the
whole stack. Examples are:
Suited Connectors
Straight and flushes as well as some combo draws that will have enough equity in a 3-bet pot for an
all-in.
Small Pockets
Sets
Suited (wheel) aces do also qualify to a limited extent. Similar to suited connectors, there is another reason
for a 3-bet here:
With one of 4 aces, you are holding a card that makes AA, AK, AQ less likely.
A reason against it:
If your opponent does hold an ace you will be dominated quite often.
Less qualified for a 3-bet are all hands that do not fall into either category. Hands with which you are
dominited are particularly problematic. Similar to a simply raised pot, it could happen to you at a 3-bet pot,
that you end up with a 3-outer and top pair which you usually will not be able to let go of because of the
larger pot.
Now you have a first impression of how you can 3-bet in addition to 3-betting for value. Next, we will have
to clarify when and against whom this makes any sense at all. Deceptive 3-bets are something like a
semibluff before the flop. The conditions for the respective profitabilities are comparable. One part comes
from the fold equity, the other part from the pots which you win in a showdown.
Generally, you should not play too many semibluffs preflop. That would only lead to you not getting credit
anymore, which is not your intention at the beginning. A healthy mixture of 3-bets for value and semibluffs
will ensure that you are not too easy to read, and at the same time not be rebluffed too often.
In the beginning you should always play 3-bets for value. There are specific situations when a call with a
value hand will have the higher EV, but this is advanced theory and will not be discussed here.
Whether you play a deceptive 3-bet or not will depend on several factors. Some of them will be listed here
together with their effect on your decision-making. But again, the decision is yours to make.
The qualities of your opponents will have the following effects:
Your opponent folds a lot on 3-bets:
Semibluff more by 3-betting.

Your opponent 4-bets a lot on 3-bets:
Less semibluffing, less playing 3-bet/fold, but more 3-bet/broke.

Your opponent calls a lot on 3-bets:
Less semibluffing and more 3-betting for value.

Your image will have the following effects:
Tight image
More semibluffing, because your fold equity is higher with a tight image.
Loose image
Less semibluffing and more 3-betting for value, because your opponents are folding less often.
A preflop value range is usually between 3 and 4.5%. If you play approximately just as many semibluffs as
3-bets for value, then this will be an overall good mixture.
Some particularities when playing out of position

So far, we have only discussed things in general. In the following we will go into detail regarding the
dynamics of playing out of position. When you are out of position, you have to consider the disadvantage of
position. The probability that the villain will call you is usually considerably higher than when you are in
position.
This is logical since your opponent will have position on you after the flop. You should always be aware of
this when you are 3-betting out of position. You should also decide beforehand, which boards you are going
to contibet, if any.
At the same time you will have to consider the preflop fold equity. Should you come to the conclusion that
neither your preflop bluff nor your postflop bluff will be successful often enough, then just don't do it. In
those cases you will have no other choice than to play for value.
You will also have to pay attention to your mixture in a blind defense. If you only 3-bet for value you will get
no payoff. If you bluff too much, then in the long run you will find yourself in unprofitable situations against
better opponents too often. So either you will run into problems after the flop out of position or you will have
to fold preflop on 4-bets too often.
How do you play against 3-bets?

Now you know how to play 3-bets yourself. What remains is the question of how to react to 3-bets from
your opponents. First, as always, you should identify the range you are playing against and then make your
decision accordingly.
Any available information can help you to identify the range. For one the exact stats, that will become
statistically relevant at a certain sample size, will help just as much as the player's overall impression:
Which range do you expect from someone with specific qualities?
Once you have roughly identified the range, you will have to work out how he might react to any possible
action from you and which part of his range he will use. Of course it is also important that you consider what
range he will give you for your particular action.
Naturally you cannot identify the range here in terms of exact hand ranges, but rather in terms of the
proportion of semibluffs (pockets, connectors, etc.) and value hands (big aces, big pockets).
And then, of course, you will again have your three options: raise, call or fold.
In regard to all of your actions against 3-bets, it is self-evident that the following rule applies: you should
not be polarising. If you are 4-betting strong hands then you should every once in a while also 4-bet bluffs
(provided your opponent is able to fold). If you are calling medium strong hands, then you should also call
weaker hands and monsters from time to time.
4-Bets
There are similar reasons in favour of a 4-bet after a 3-bet as there are for the 3-bet itself. Either you have
a strong hand and 4-bet with the intention to go all-in, or you want to force your opponent to fold.
Reasons for 4-betting with a strong hand:
To balance your 4-bet bluffs.
The assumption that your opponent will go broke with many hands with which he is 3-betting.
The prevention of own mistakes at the flop.

Reasons for 4-betting as a bluff:
Your opponent believes that you have a strong 4-betting range and thus will fold many hands.
Naturally, he will need a relatively loose 3-betting range of his own to do that.
Factors that play a role when making your decision:
Your opponent (how loosely will he go broke?)
Your image, especially preflop (many/few 3-bets/4-bets)
Hands qualified for a bluff are: On the one hand, those with which your opponent would go all-in and which
make these hands on your opponent's side less likely (e.g. Ax reduces the probability of AA by 50%, and the
probability of AK or AQ by 25% each). On the other hand there are those hands, which you can fold on an
all-in with confidence .
A reference value of 2.5 times the 3-bet has proven to be a good 4-betting size. You should start with that.
Calling a 3-bet
The expectation of winning more money in the pot from your opponent postflop than you would preflop
speaks for calling a 3-bet with a strong hand. This can be the case when the fold equity for a 4-bet is too
high, but also when your opponent likes to bluff after the flop.
Take a look at this example:
You are UTG and raise 4BB. The SB 3-bets after several folds to 14BB, BB folds. If you were to 4-bet now,
you would frequently generate enormous fold equities. If you were to just call, you would often keep those
hands in the pot that would otherwise fold preflop and that would often lose a lot of money postflop out of
position. If you have a value hand now, then calling would be preferred to 4-betting.
The expectation of winning the pot unimproved as well of receiving a payoff in case of a hit speaks for
calling with a weaker hand. In most cases though, a call would make more sense when in position.
Reasons for that could be:
Your opponent bluffs a lot preflop and therefore does not have a strong range.
Your image speaks for a strong hand; your opponent is not bluffing you too hard.
You already know your opponent well enough to be able to judge his multibarrel behaviour.
Reasons against that could be:
Your opponent is not giving you much credit.
Your opponent is generally bluffing a lot postflop.
Your opponent is very much showdown-bound.
Your opponent rarely 3-bets and therefore has a strong range.

This topic, too, is only touched on in brief, and will not be dealt with in any depth
After the Flop - You Have Initiative

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Video to the Article
Introduction
In this article we will cover....
why you should never play a made hand passively after the flop
when you can make a continuation bet
why you should never bluff against more than two opponents
Any time you have a strong hand and the opponents in front of you have not indicated strong(er) hands of
their own, you raise before the flop. Depending on your position and the number of opponents in the hand,
however, you can also raise with a weaker hand. Stealing the blinds, for example, means that a player bets
into the blinds, not because he has a great hand, but in order to force them to fold so he can collect their
blinds.
This article will focus on post-flop play when you have initiative. Remember, even if you raise first, a raise
behind you creates a different situation, which you can read about in the other "After the Flop" articles.
EXAMPLE 1

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
Flop - Active Players (3): You, BB, BU - Pot: $3.10
EXAMPLE 2
You are on the

CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
Flop - Active Players (2): You, BB - Pot: $2.10
Being the aggressor before the flop puts you in a unique situation. You will play differently than in rounds in
which either an opponent, or no one at all, raised before the flop.
In the following sections you will learn ...
... how to evaluate the strength of your hand.
... what a continuation bet is and when it is sensible to make one.
... how the community cards and your opponents' play influence your play.
... how to play on the flop, turn and river.

Keep in mind that we can't possibly cover this complex subject in a single article. It is critical for you to find
as much learning material as you can - as an aggressive player you will most often be the aggressor going
into the flop. Making the right decisions after the flop as the aggressor is the key to your success.
PokerStrategy offers diverse learning materials; you can watch videos, visit coachings, post in the forum,
etc. Take advantage of these offers and continue to develop yourself as a poker player. It's a long road to
the higher limits.
DOWNLOADS
The starting hand chart as PDF file
The odds chart as PDF file
How strong is your hand?

Once the flop has been revealed, the question is, "What do you have?" AK is a strong hand before the flop,
but if you miss it isn't worth much.
You will usually be able to place your hand into one of five categories. Keep in mind, these categories are
not set in stone - depending on the community cards and the opponents you are facing a weak draw could
also be counted as a worthless hand, and vice versa, for example.
The five categories are:
Worthless hands
Weak draws
Strong draws
Medium made hands
Strong made hands
Worthless hands
A worthless hand is a hand that completely missed the flop. It can be, for example, a small pocket pair on a
flop with three overcards, or a strong hand like AK or KQ that doesn't hit and leaves you with nothing but
two overcards.
EXAMPLE 3 - TRASH
You are on the

CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
EXAMPLE 4 - A SMALL PAIR


MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the
CO
You raise to $1
BU folds
SB calls $0.90
BB calls $0.75
Weak draws
This category consists of hands that have little or no potential to win a showdown and that have poor
chances at getting better. Weak draws include: gutshot straight draws, small pocket pairs that miss the flop
and overcards with a backdoor draw (a backdoor draw means you need to hit the turn andthe river to win).
EXAMPLE 5 - GUTSHOT DRAW
You are on the

CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
EXAMPLE 6 - BOTTOM PAIR

You are on the

CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (2): You, BU - Pot: $2.35
Strong draws
A strong draw is a hand that can't win a showdown yet, but has good chances at turning into a strong made
hand. Strong draws include: flush draws, OESDs (open-ended straight draws), and combodraws (a small
pair + a flush/OESD draw, or a flush draw + an OESD, for example).
EXAMPLE 7 - FLUSH DRAW

fold
You raise to $1
You are in MP2
MP3 folds
CO calls $1
BU folds
SB calls $0.90
BB folds
Flop - Active Players (3): You, SB, CO - Pot: $3.25
Medium made hands

The term "medium made hands" can be deceiving. In a raised pot, this category consists of all made hands
that are relatively strong and could win a showdown, such as an overpair, top pair with a good kicker, or a
high pocket pair.
These hands are strong, but they can be beaten. If an opponent makes his hand, you usually have no
chance at catching up again (i.e., you have an overpair but a flush draw completes).
EXAMPLE 8 - Top with a high kicker

fold
You raise to $1
You are in MP2
MP3 folds
CO calls $1
BU folds
SB calls $0.90
BB folds
You are on the

CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB and BB fold
Strong made hands

This category is made up of monster hands - it can be anything from two pair to a Royal Flush. As always,
the community cards and the number of opponents you are facing influence the strength of your hand. With
a draw heavy board and several opponents in the hand your two pair may not be so strong after all - against
a single opponent on a drawless board you would have much better chances. You have a strong made hand
when: a) you most likely have the best hand and b) it is not likely that an opponent can complete a draw for
the better hand.

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How do you play on the flop?

Your actions on the flop determine how the rest of the hand will develop. In this section you will learn ...
... what a continuation bet is.
... which flops and which opponents present a good opportunity for a continuation bet.
... how high your bets/raises should be.
... what to do when someone raises in front of you.
... what to do when someone raises after you make a continuation bet.
What is a continuation bet?

The name basically says it all - a continuation bet is a bet made after you showed aggression in the previous
round. In other words, you continue to bet.
A bet in general can have three purposes:
You want to force everyone to fold and win the pot directly.
You want to protect a made hand against draws and make the next community card too expensive
for opponents on a draw to see.
You have a made hand and want to get money out of weaker hands. You maximize the value of your
hand.
EXAMPLE 10 - CONTIBET
You are in MP2
UTG1, UTG2, UTG3, MP1 and

you fold
MP3 raises to $1
CO folds
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
Flop - Active Players (3): BB, MP3, BU - Pot: $3.10
BB checks
MP3 bets $2.35
EXAMPLE 11 - CONTIBET
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the CO
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2, MP3 and you fold
BU raises to $1.50
SB and BB fold
UTG1 and MP1 call $1.25
Flop - Active Players (3): UTG1, MP1, BU - Pot: $4.85
UTG1 and MP1 check
BU bets $3
You've probably seen this before, either on TV or while playing yourself. The continuation bet on the flop is a
standard move.
It can be a bluff, but it can also be a strong made hand. You will often make a contibet when you don't hit
anything, but to do so you need the right flop and the right opponents.
A bluff continuation bet against an opponent who doesn't like to fold on the flop won't get you far. There are
good flops for bluffing and there bad flops for bluffing. The most important thing to avoid is bluffing on draw
heavy boards.
Which flops are suitable for continuation bets?

Rule #1: Always make a contibet with a made hand, top pair or better. Your goal: protect your hand and
get money into the pot.
Rule# 2: Always make a contibet with a strong draw when facing a single opponent. This is a semi-bluff;
you can either win here and now by forcing him to fold, or your hand can get better on the turn/river if you
get called.
Remember, a semi-bluff is ultimately just a bluff and is only profitable as a tool when you can get players to
fold. A draw alone isn't enough to justify a bet/bluff. Unless you have a true monster draw, your chances of
winning just aren't high enough.
You will rarely get several opponents, or even a single loose opponent, to fold by betting. A bluff contibet
against several opponents is only useful when both conditions are fulfilled: a suitable flop + your opponents
can be forced to fold.
If both of these conditions are not met you will have to play your draws according to the pot odds, which
you learned in the articles on pot odds and implied pot odds. You check and if someone bets you call if
you're getting the right odds, and fold if you're not.
Rule #3: Your continuation bet is a bluff if you have a weak draw, a weak made hand, or nothing at all.
Bluffing against several opponents and bluffing against opponents who won't fold is a waste of money. Never
bluff against more than two opponents with a weak hand.
You will encounter the next situation quite often: You raised before the flop, one or two opponents called,
and you didn't really hit anything big. Should you make a bluff contibet? The answer depends on the
community cards and your opponents' actions.
When you look at the board, ask yourself two questions:
Can you represent a hand?
Could your opponents have hit the board?

If you answer the first question with a yes and the second with a no, you're looking at a suitable flop for a
bluff continuation bet. Flops with high cards, are good for contibets, too. You can represent a high pair with
your bet.
EXAMPLES OF GOOD FLOPS
A high card
An ace and a face card
You bet
You bet
You bet
A pair
As you can see, a flop that only helps a small range of hands is good for bluff contibets. The board isn't
showing any significant draws and it's unlikely that an opponent has a strong made hand. You can represent
a strong hand, and your opponent will rarely have the cards to call, even if he is absolutely positive that you
are bluffing.
The only strong draw possible in the first example would be an OESD with 43. Your opponent can't have
many strong made hands, either. He could have two pair with 52, K5, or K2, but this isn't likely since he
called a raise before the flop. Your opponent would need three-of-a-kind or top pair to call a bet - he will
most likely have to fold his hand.
The same is true in the second example. No strong draws are showing and you can represent either the ace
or the king. It's not likely that your opponent hit a strong made hand and he certainly won't be on a draw.
Your opponent probably doesn't have a strong made hand in the third example either, and the board isn't
showing any significant draws. The difference is that you can't represent much more than an overpair. Your
opponent is less likely to believe that you have something. This flop doesn't really help many hands at all.
It's possible that your opponent spots your bluff, but he will rarely have the cards to call. His only real option
is to bluff himself and raise you. You will often see aggressive players attack such flops. Be careful making
bluff contibets on such a flop (drawless and paired) - your opponent might bluff back.
EXAMPLES OF BAD FLOPS
Very draw heavy
You check
You check
You check
Very draw heavy
Very draw heavy
All three examples are titled, "Very draw heavy." You should never make a contibet on a draw heavy board
against more than one single opponent.
There's hardly a hand you can represent in the first example. There are also a lot of hands that will want to
stay in the hand: 98, 87, 76, 65, 54, 43, 88, 77, 66, 55, and 44, as well as flush draws and overpairs. These
are all hands that opponents could have called with before the flop.
There's nothing for you to represent and your opponents probably have playable hands - two good reasons
to only invest if you're facing a single opponent and know he can can easily be forced to fold.
The same counts for the other examples. These are flops that help a lot of different possible hands. Your
opponent could easily have two pair or even a straight. He could also have a straight draw, flush draw, or a
pair and a gutshot draw. Of course, he could also have completely missed the flop, but this is too unlikely.
It's best to give up your hand on such a flop and wait for a better opportunity to invest.
EXAMPLES OF MEDIOCRE FLOPS
High card + flush draw
You consider ...
You consider ...
You consider ...
Three high cards
Ace + possible flush
A lot of flops aren't ideal for a contibet, but it wouldn't be out of the question, either. You can represent a
strong hand, but your opponents could have hit, as well.
You can see three such example flops above. There are two habits you should not get into on such flops:
Always making a continuation bet.
Never making a continuation bet.

The right decision depends on your opponents. What could they have hit? What will they lay down? What do
they need to call? How easily can they be brought to fold? There's no right way to play this kind of flop. If
you're not sure what to do, however, you're better off not taking any risks.
Which opponents are suitable for continuation bets?

There are different types of poker players, each of which reacts differently to a continuation bet. You can
generally place your opponents into one of four categories:
Loose-passive
It's hard for a loose player to lay down his hand, which means you can't bluff against them effectively. A
loose-passive player will rarely show aggression, but will call a lot of bets. Your strategy against him does
not revolve around forcing him out of pots, but rather patiently waiting for a good hand and then putting
your money in. You know he will call with a wide range of hands.
Loose-aggressive
A loose-aggressive player has trouble laying his hand down, too, but he also plays aggressively. This type of
opponent is also more likely to bluff. They see a paired board (like in the example above) as an invitation to
attack the pot. You should refrain from bluffing this type of opponent. Your strategy is to let him pay you off
when you have a strong hand. Give him the small pots when you don't have a hand, and take down the big
ones when you do.
Tight-passive
You want to make your bluff contibets against tight-passive players. They are quick to fold and only show
aggression when they have a strong hand. You will often make continuation bets against them. If it doesn't
work, you'll know you're beat.
Tight-aggressive
You are a tight-aggressive player. You play strong hands and avoid marginal situations. This is why you can
bluff against tight-aggressive players. This also means players can bluff against you. This isn't a
disadvantage - good players have to be bluffable.
You can attack a lot of pots when facing so-called TAGs, but not as many as against tight-passive players. If
he is multitabling, you can make regular contibets against him. He is probably playing his standard game
and folding every time he misses the flop.
As you can see, bluff continuation bets are most effective against tight players who only play with very
strong hands. Loose-aggressive opponents are the least suitable for bluff contibets. Remember the rule,
"Never bluff against someone who can't fold," especially in lower limits where you will often find opponents
who have no idea about poker.
Don't make bluff contibets against short stacked opponents. Either he is a poor player, or he plays a short
stack strategy - either way you probably won't get him to fold. The less money your opponent has, the less
likely he will fold to a bet. Short stacks quickly see themselves as pot committed.
Pay attention to how your opponent plays before and after the flop. Some players patiently wait for a good
starting hand, but turn loose as soon as they've seen the flop - a good sign that he won't fold to a contibet.
There are also lots of players who like to see the flop with any two cards, but immediately get out of the way
when they don't hit. You should like this type of opponent, since he plays often and rarely has anything after
the flop.
What do you do now?

Now you have all the information you need to make your decision. The trick is correctly weighing the
information you have and making the right decision.
We'll start with the simple stuff: You have a medium/strong made hand (top pair with a good kicker or
better). In this case you always make a continuation bet, regardless of the number and type of opponents
you are facing. You will often either have the best hand or good chances at getting there.
Always bet with a strong draw against a single opponent and almost always against two. If you're facing
more than two opponents, your decision will depend heavily on the community cards and your opponents'
actions. Only bet if you think there is a good chance that everyone will fold.
It's hard to make a bluff contibet with a weak draw, a small pair, or when you completely miss the flop. Your
cards aren't worth investing in and a bluff has to work regularly to be profitable. Take a good look at the flop
and your opponents, if you see:
Many opponents - you don't bet.
A draw heavy board - you don't bet.
A loose opponent who calls every bet - you don't bet.

Good players tend to make contibets between 65-75% of the time, and more often in than out of position.
On average, however, a good player won't make a contibet with 25-35% of the hands he raises with. The
65-75% of the time he does it's either a bluff or a playable hand.
You should almost always bet against a single opponent, unless he is loose and won't fold on the flop. You
need a good flop before you can make a contibet against two opponents, and then only if you know they can
fold. You've already learned which kinds of opponents can be brought to fold and which can't.
Time to try it out. Look at the next four examples and decide whether or not you would make a continuation
bet.
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 calls $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
You raise to $1.75
MP3, BU and SB call $1.50
Flop - Active Players (4): You, SB, MP3, BU - Pot: $7.00
SB checks
This time it's an easy one - there's no way you're not going to bet. You have a strong hand, but you need to
protect it. You want weaker hands to put money in the pot and don't want to give a flush draw the right
price for the turn card.
If you didn't have such a strong hand you wouldn't make a contibet in this situation. Three opponents and a
draw heavy board are two good reasons not to invest in a mediocre hand.
EXAMPLE 13 - STRONG DRAW
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 calls $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
You raise to $1.75
SB checks
You don't have a made hand, but your draw is very strong. You have the nut flush draw and two overcards.
The contibet is a must, even against three opponents.
EXAMPLE 14 - BLUFF AGAINST TWO OPPONENTS
You are in MP2

fold
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
This is a borderline case. If you know you are facing a loose opponent, you should give up your hand. If
you're not sure, or if you do know they are both tight, you can make a contibet. The flop is safe and you
have outs for top pair.
EXAMPLE 15 - NOT BLUFFING AGAINST TWO OPPONENTS

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You check
The best thing to do on this flop is to give up the hand. There is almost no sense in making a bluff contibet,
unless both of them are extremely tight; you probably won't be able to make them fold. A wide range of
hands could have hit the flop and you can't represent much at all.
How much should you bet?

Now that you've decided to bet, the question is, "How much?"
In general:
The stronger the draws/dangers on the board, the higher your bet.
The more opponents involved, the higher your bet.

Your bet should always be between 1/2 and the full size of the pot. 2/3 of the pot is usually a decent size.
You can bet the full pot on a draw heavy board against two opponents to give your hand maximum
protection (don't think about bluffing in this situation).
1/2 the pot is a good size for a contibet against a single opponent on a drawless board. If you have a made
hand, there is no need to protect your hand. If you don't, a 1/2 pot bluff contibet is relatively inexpensive,
which means it doesn't always have to work to be profitable.
EXAMPLE 16 - BLUFF

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the CO
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $1.25
In this example you bet a little over 1/2 the pot. The flop is harmless, or dry in poker jargon. If you had a
made hand there would be little need to protect it. You can represent the ace with a small bet. This bluff
isn't very expensive, which means it doesn't always have to work to be profitable.
Your opponent can hardly stay in the hand without an ace or a seven. You also have position on him. He will
usually have no choice but to fold.
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 calls $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
You raise to $1.75
SB checks
You bet $6
Remember this example - a clear case for a contibet. The flush draw on the board makes your hand
vulnerable. You are also facing three opponents, two of which have position on you. Your bet has to be big;
in our example nearly the entire pot.
EXAMPLE 18 - BLUFFING TWO OPPONENTS

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2
We already explained why a bluff contibet is questionable in this situation - you could easily just check. If
you do decide to bluff, your bet should be around 2/3 the pot size.
What should you do when someone bets ahead of you?

Your opponents won't always check to you and give you the choice of making a continuation bet or not.
Often enough, opponents will bet ahead of you, something called a donk bet. Your reaction depends on the
size of the bet.
You are facing one opponent and his bet is small in relation to the pot (usually 1-3 BBs).
This move usually indicates a weak or middle strong hand. If your opponent is short stacked (less than 2.5 *
pot), you probably won't be able to bluff him off the hand. He will usually feel pot committed and won't lay
down his hand. You should only continue to play by raising with made hands and strong draws.
You can raise with a weaker hand if your opponent has a middle or large size stack. Of course, you shouldn't
bluff if he is too loose and you should be sure his bet wasn't meant to provoke a raise. Such a bet from a
tight aggressive player, who usually wouldn't make such a move, could easily be a trap.
You are facing one opponent and his bet is relatively large
In this situation you should raise with strong draws and made hands (top pair with a good kicker or better),
and fold the rest.
You are facing several opponents

Bluffing is no longer an option. You can raise with strong made hands and strong draws, or you could
consider calling with a medium made hand like a weak top/middle pair. You'll have to fold, though, if your
hand doesn't get better.
You're in a really hairy situation if a second player raises ahead of you. The only hands that can still be
played profitably are strong made hands (two pair or better) and strong combodraws (especially a flush
draw + OESD). You can fold anything less, even pocket aces. Whatever you do, your decision will, as always,
ultimately rest on the board and your opponents.
A raise signals a very strong hand. What draws are possible? If your opponent is particularly aggressive he
may not have the best hand. Could he have raised with a hand weaker than yours?
EXAMPLE 19 - A SMALL BET

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the CO
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
BB bets $0.50
You raise to $2
The BB's bet indicates a weak hand, you could still catch an ace or a draw on the turn if he calls - a good
opportunity to raise.
EXAMPLE 20 - A BIG BET

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the CO
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
BB bets $1.50
You fold
Same cards, same board, but this time your opponent's bet is much higher. He probably has a strong hand
like top pair; or maybe something like 88 or A9.
EXAMPLE 21 - WITH SEVERAL OPPONENTS IN THE HAND

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the CO
You raise to $1
BU folds
SB calls $0.90
BB calls $0.75
SB checks
BB bets $0.75
You fold
In this last example the BB's bet is relatively small, but there is another opponent in the hand, as well. Since
you haven't hit anything, folding is the best choice. Bluffing several opponents probably wouldn't work and
would be a waste of money.
How should you react to a raise?

Another common situation you will encounter: you make a contibet and an opponent raises behind you.
You will obviously have to fold any weak or worthless hand, such as a small or middle pair, or a weak draw.
You can continue to play a strong combodraw, such as a nut flush draw + OESD, or nut flush/straight + a
pair, aggressively. With more than 12 clean outs you can even go all-in.
You can call with just a flush/OESD/double gutshot draw if you're getting the right (implied) pot odds.
If you complete your draw, you can expect to win another 1/2 of the pot size on the turn by the showdown.
As a general rule: you can call as long as you don't have to pay more than 3/4 of the pot size (including
actions before you).
You can expect to win even more from passive opponents, whose raise indicates a strong hand. Any poor
players still in the hand are also likely to pay you off. In such a situation you could pay as much as the full
pot size (including actions before you).
If a made hand, top pair or better, the cards in the flop should be of particular interest. Raise and protect
your hand on a draw heavy board. You could just call on a drawless board to keep your opponent in the
hand if you think it's likely that he has a weak hand or is bluffing.
You can usually fold weak hands like top pair with a low kicker to a raise. You should only consider staying in
the hand if you know your opponent is very aggressive.
EXAMPLE 22 - AA OVERPAIR
You raise to $1
UTG2, UTG3 and MP1 fold
You are UTG1
MP2 calls $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (3): You, MP2, BU - Pot: $3.35
You bet $2.50
MP2 folds
BU raises to $7.5
This isn't the simplest situation. Several draws are on the board; your opponent could have hit the king for
top pair. The best option is reraising. You can go all-in, since you are going to be pot committed either way.
EXAMPLE 23 - STRONG COMBODRAW
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BU raises to $8
BB folds
You have a strong flush draw + OESD; 15 cards would probably give you the best hand. With this many outs
you can go all-in. This wouldn't even be a semi-bluff; even if your opponent is guaranteed to call, your hand
is profitable.
EXAMPLE 24 - TOP PAIR AND HEAVY ACTION
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.75
BU raises to $8
BB and you fold
This time it's a completely different situation; you may have top pair with a good kicker, but a wide range of
other hands could have hit the flop better. Imagine already facing two pair, three-of-a-kind, a completed
flush/straight, or even just AT on the flop.
And even if you do have the best hand right now, your opponent's chances of catching up are too good for
you to stay in the hand. Remember the rule: big pots are for big hands, small pots are for small hands. Your
hand is too weak for this large of a pot, it won't be profitable to to stay on it.

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How do you play on the turn?

Once the turn card comes it's time to reevaluate your hand. Is it still strong/worthless? Could it get better?
Could your opponent have completed a draw on the turn?
Continue to play strong made hands aggressively.
If you bluffed on the flop, quit investing on the turn.
You can play a strong draw aggressively against a single opponent, passively against several.
Bet with strong pairs. You can check/call on a drawless board.
Be cautious if a card comes that may have completed a draw. Bet and fold to a raise with a good
made hand that is already as strong as it will get.
Don't try to bluff if an opponent bets in front of you. If you have a very strong made hand, you can
raise.
Continue to play strong made hands aggressively

If you still have a strong made hand, two pair or better, you continue to play aggressively. If a draw card
comes, you'll have to choose between betting and folding to a raise, or checking and calling a bet.
EXAMPLE 25 - THREE-OF-A-KIND
You are in MP2

fold
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BU and BB call $2.50
Turn - Active Players (3): You, BB, BU - Pot: $10.60
BB checks
You bet $8.50
You still have the best possible hand on the turn, but you have to protect it against a flush/straight draw.
You also want to get money into the pot. You know what to do; bet.
EXAMPLE 26 - A FLUSH/STRAIGHT DRAW COMPLETES

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BB checks
You bet $8.50
Flush and straight draws may have completed, but you could still catch a full house on the river. You also
have to protect; your opponents may not have a flush or straight yet, but might have hit a draw for one on
the turn.
Either you are ahead and protect your hand, or you are behind and still have 10 outs for a full house or fourof-a-kind.
You can't play a combination of a strong hand and a strong draw passively. There are too many hands that
will call and pay you off, and you will win often enough when you do get called and are behind to make an
investment profitable.
Don't bluff a second time on the turn

If your bluff on the flop got called, don't try it again on the turn. Weak draws aren't worth playing, either.
Any bluff would have to be expensive and you will usually end up losing the hand.
EXAMPLE 27 - A FAILED BLUFF
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB and BB fold
You bet $1.40
BU calls $1.40
Turn - Active Players (2): You, BU - Pot: $5.15
You check
Your bluff contibet on the flop didn't work and the turn card didn't help you at all. It's time to give up the
hand. Granted, you might be able to win with another bluff, but doing so would greatly increase the size of
the pot - something you never want to do.
Play strong draws passively

You can't play a strong draw aggressively against several opponents. Check and see if someone bets. You
already know how to calculate the pot odds, so you know what you can call.
You can make a semi-bluff against a single opponent with a strong draw. As always, only bluff an opponent
who can lay down a hand. If there's a good chance that he will call, check and see what happens next.
Remember, as strong as your draw might be, you are only going to see one more card, which means the
chances of completing are much lower than on the flop.
EXAMPLE 28 - A STRONG DRAW AGAINST A SINGLE OPPONENT
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB and BB fold
You bet $1.40
BU calls $1.40
You bet $3.25
Your contibet on the flop was a pure bluff, but now you have a flush draw on the turn. You can bluff again on
the turn since there aren't too many strong made hands possible on this board.
Top pairs and overpairs

With a pair, you can either:
Bet and fold to a raise.

A bet on the flop could indicate a draw or a bluff. A raise on the turn, however, usually indicates a strong
hand, especially in lower limits. But there is one exception - loose aggressive players, or maniacs, are
aggressive enough to bet with weak made hands, draws and with nothing at all on the turn. You can
continue to play top pair or an overpair against such a player, as long as no draws could have completed.
Or, you check

If you have position on your opponent and he checks, you can check behind. Depending on the river card,
you can consider calling a bet, should your opponent bet. If you're not in position, check/call is your best
option. Reevaluate your hand and make a new decision on the river.
EXAMPLE 29 - YOU BET
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BU calls $2.50
BB folds
You bet $6
It's always a good idea to bet when your opponent has position on you, and/or when you don't want to give
the river card away for free. A flush draw may have already completed in our example, but your opponent
doesn't necessarily have a flush; he might just have one heart and could now be on a flush draw.
You have to bet and protect your hand. You can assume your opponent has you beat if he raises. You would
play this hand the same way if, for example, a ten of clubs had shown up on the turn. Once again, if your
opponent raises, folding is your best option.
EXAMPLE 30 - YOU BET AND FOLD

fold
You are in MP2
You raise to $1
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BU calls $2.50
BB folds
You bet $6.50
BU raises to $15
You fold
The best move to make on this turn card is betting and folding to a raise. It's too unlikely that your
opponent is raising with a weaker hand. Checking isn't an option either; you would only be giving your
opponent a free chance to catch a better hand. Even 2 2 has 14 outs to beat your jacks.
If your opponent calls, you can either check/fold or make another small bet and fold to a raise on the river.
EXAMPLE 31 - YOU CHECK
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BU folds
BB calls $2.50
BB checks
You check
This is a good move to make when you are in position and the board isn't showing any big draws. The best
draw an opponent could have on this board is a gutshot; there is no need to protect your hand on the turn.
Checking has two results:
You keep the pot small and pay your opponent less if he does have a better hand.
If your opponent has a weak hand, maybe the gutshot or a weak ace or an eight, he will probably
fold to a bet. Your check signals weakness and your opponent may be tempted into bluffing on the river. He
might also think his weaker hand is good and bet on it. Furthermore, he's more likely to call a bet on the
river if you checked on the turn.
You can't do this, however, if a draw might have completed on the turn. If, say, a third card of the same suit
shows up, you will have to rethink the hand. It's quite possible that your opponent just completed his flush.
You can bet with a strong made hand that probably won't get any better, but you'll have to fold to a raise.
If you have a hand that could still get better, such as a pair + flush draw, you can check and call a bet when
you're out of position, or check and call a bet on the river if you are in position.
You should only continue to play strong made hands, two pair or better, when an opponent bets in front of
you on the turn. If a draw completed, you should probably just call instead of raising. The only exception is
when you have three-of-a-kind and a straight or flush draw completes.

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How do you play on the river?

As always, you will have to reevaluate the strength of your hand on the river. Could your opponent have
completed a draw? Continue to play strong made hands aggressively, unless you have reason to believe that
your opponent has you beat.
If you have top pair or an overpair and got called on the flop and turn, there is little sense in investing again
on the river, unless you know your opponent is loose. Normally you should just check and call a bet behind
you depending on its size. This is a particularly good move to make when a flush/straight draw didn't
complete by the river and you think your opponent is aggressive enough to make a bluff.
If a draw does complete and you are out of position, your best option is betting yourself and folding to a
raise. You can get money out of weaker hands that would have otherwise just checked when you do have
the best hand, and will know you're beat if a raise does come and you can get out of harm's way. You can
check/call against aggressive players. And as always, if you have reason to believe your opponent has you
beat, don't waste any more money on the hand.
A bet or raise on the river is rarely a bluff. If a flush draw completes on the river and an opponent raises
your bet, you can safely assume he does have the flush.
With two pair or better you should bet, in order to get money out of opponents with weaker hands. Your bet
doesn't have to be as high as on the flop and turn, since you don't have to protect your hand against any
more. 1/2 the pot is a good size bet for the river. Don't be tempted to bluff on the river - it will rarely work.
EXAMPLE 32 - A FAILED BLUFF

You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB and BB fold
You bet $1.40
BU calls $1.40
You bet $3.25
BU calls $3.25
River - Active Players (2): You, BU - Pot: $11.65
You check
As we said, you should always give up your bluffs by the river at the latest. In this example, the flush draw
on the turn is it the only thing that made it possible to bluff again at all. Now you can't expect your
opponent to fold to a harmless two on the river after having called you down so far, either. You will hardly
ever win with another bet.
EXAMPLE 33 - TOP PAIR
You are on the CO

MP2 and MP3 fold
You raise to $1
BU calls $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $2.50
BU calls $2.50
BB folds
You bet $6
BU calls $6
You check
BU bets $10
You fold
This is a close call. You could make a small bet on the river and fold to a raise. You keep the pot small if he
calls with a weaker hand; if he raises it's probably not a bluff.
On the other hand, the chances of him bluffing are already small, he called the flop and the turn. If he bets
on the river, he probably has you beat. Most opponents wouldn't bet with a weak pair on this board and
would prefer to go to the showdown.
When they do bet, they usually have a straight or a flush. If you're lucky they only have three-of-a-kind or
are bluffing. You can just check and fold to a bet, or call if the price is low enough.
EXAMPLE 34 - TOP PAIR

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the CO
You raise to $1
BU and SB fold
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
You bet $1.40
BB calls $1.40
BB and you check
River - Active Players (2): You, BB - Pot: $4.90
BB bets $3
You call $3
Here you see a typical example of pot control. You raised before the flop and hit top pair with a decent
kicker on a drawless board. You make a contibet and your opponent calls.
The turn doesn't change much. Your opponent checks and you follow suit. Then he bets on a harmless river
and you call. A standard move to remember: Bet flop, check turn, call river.
There's no need to bet the turn in this example, not even against a bad opponent. You will most likely only
make all weaker hands fold. Only a 9 or a K could keep an opponent in the hand. Since your opponent called
on the flop before the flush draw came on the turn, you don't have to worry about him having two hearts.
You clearly don't need to bet and protect your hand. Your check might induce an opponent to bluff with a
weaker hand on the river and it keeps the pot small in case you don't have the best hand after all.
Conclusion
The key to success in NL Hold'em is playing a controlled, aggressive game of position. The most important
situation for you as a TAG is being the aggressor and having initiative on the flop.
Whether or not to make a continuation bet is a decision you will continually face. This article taught you the
basic guidelines to follow. Always bet between 1/2 and the full pot size with strong made hands and strong
draws.
Play all other draws passively. The articles on pot odds and implied pot odds taught you everything you need
to know to do so successfully. Never bluff against more than two opponents or against loose players who
can't lay down their hand.
Give up your bluffs on the turn. Continue investing in strong made hands. Play draws passively and only for
the right odds, unless you have a strong draw and only one opponent is still in the hand. Bet with pairs
when you are out of position; check once on a drawless board when in position.
You can then call a bet on the river. If you bet with a pair on the flop and turn in position, don't bet a third
time on the river, check and take the showdown.
If you probably have the best hand you obviously continue to play aggressively on the river. The only thing
you should change is the size of your bet. 1/2 the pot is a good size for a bet on the river.
The next article in this series will focus on the exact opposite situation - when you call raise before the flop.
After the Flop: An Opponent Has Initiative

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Introduction
In this article we will cover...
why you should play made hands aggressively
when you can play strong draws aggressively / when to play according to the pot odds
why you need a big hand to play for a big pot
You will rarely call a raise before the flop, simply because doing so is rarely profitable. You want to be in
control when you play, which means being active and not making passive calls.
This situation will, however, arise, when you have a small pocket pair, for example. This is almost always the
hand you will have when calling a raise before the flop. It's also an easy hand to play after the flop: Either
you will have a set and try to go all-in or you won't hit a set, in which case you give up the hand.
It's also difficult for your opponents to get a read on you when you do hit a strong hand. You are only using
your hole cards and a single community card, which makes your set much harder for your opponent to spot
than a straight draw or a made flush, for example.
If you look at the Starting Hands Chart you will notice that the only time you ever directly call a raise is with
a pair. There are, however, a few exceptions: 1) The raise is minimal in size, 2) other players have already
called the raise.
You can call with suited connectors, as long as both of these criteria are met and you are in position. Just
remember, you can only get paid off big when both you and your opponent have enough chips in your
stacks.
There's no need to play a speculative hand against an opponent who only has half as many chips as you,
since he doesn't have enough to pay you off if you make your hand. As a general rule of thumb you can call
raises between 4-5 BBs when at least two players have already called and when you and your opponent(s)
have 100 BBs or more in your stacks.
EXAMPLE 1 - SMALL POCKET PAIR
UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the
BU
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2 and MP3 fold
CO ($25 Stack) raises to
$1.25
You call $1.25
A relatively easy hand to play: A quick look at the Starting Hands Chart is all you need. You and the
aggressor have full stacks. You follow the Call20 rule: Call a raise with pocket pairs when you and your
opponent each have 20 * original raise in your stacks. This condition isn't quite met, but it's close and the
blinds could still enter the hand.
EXAMPLE 2 - SUITED CONNECTORS
UTG1 calls $0.25

You are on the
CO
UTG2 and UTG3 fold

MP1 calls $0.25
MP2 folds
MP3 raises to $0.50
You call $0.50
This time your decision is tougher: You have suited connectors and the raise is minimal. You also have
position on the aggressor and others will probably enter the hand. You can call and look at the flop.

You are the SB
MP1 raises to $1
MP2, MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $1
You fold
Calling a raise with suited connectors in the SB position is practically a deadly sin in poker. You are playing a
speculative hand out of position and on the defense. There's no way to play it profitably.
You are on the

CO
UTG1 raises to $0.75

MP2, MP3 and you call $0.75
This is a close call. On one hand two players have already called and the raise was only 3 BBs. On the other
hand there are other players behind you, so you can't be certain that you will be playing in position. You can
call, but folding wouldn't be a mistake, either.
DOWNLOADS
What kind of hand are you looking to hit?

We already said that you will usually only be calling raises with either pocket pairs or suited connectors. This
narrows the range of hands you are looking to hit on the flop. You can continue to play made hands, such as
two pair or three-of-a-kind, and strong draws, such as flush draws and OESDs - everything else belongs in
the muck.
You should already be familiar with the five categories of hands you can hold after the flop from other
strategy articles:
Worthless hands
Also called trash.
Weak draws
A weak draw, like a gutshot draw, is no good when you called a raise before the flop.
Strong draws
Flush draws and OESDs. Strong draws have 8 outs or more.
Medium made hands

Hands like top pair with a small or medium kicker, middle pair etc. fall into this category. You will usually be
ahead after the flop, but aren't looking for action. If opponents start betting you will have to fold.
Strong made hands

Depending on the board, any hand two pair or better can be counted as a strong made hand and should be
played aggressively.
The structure on the board isn't as important as in hands when, for example, you raised before the flop. You
are only interested in playing strong made hands and strong draws for the right price.
The cards on the board do, of course, influence your play. Your decision on how to play your hand, i.e.
slowplay or a raise, will require a glance at the community cards.
You should never slowplay on a draw heavy board. Slowplay is only profitable when it is extremely unlikely
than an opponent can catch up to you. It's also better to play aggressively when three or more opponents
are in the hand, unless you have an unbeatable hand like four-of-a-kind.
In this article we will answer the following questions:
When should you slowplay a strong made hand?
When should you play a strong draw passively/aggressively?
What should you do with a medium made hand, for example, pocket 8s on a 327 flop?

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How do you play after the flop?

You have a strong made hand
The most interesting and profitable situation comes when you hit a very strong made hand on the flop. This
could be anything from three-of-a-kind to a completed straight, flush or full house. Two pair are often a
strong made hand, but weaker and more vulnerable than the others.
The number of opponents in the hand and the cards on the boards have a strong influence on your decision.
Your position is also a decisive factor.
YOU DON'T HAVE POSITION ON THE AGGRESSOR
This happens when you are the SB/BB, or when you limp in and someone raises behind you. If you hit a
strong made hand on the flop you will have three choices:
You bet.
You check with the intent of raising when an opponent bets (check/raise).
You check with the intent of calling when an opponent bets (check/call).
When you check you do so to give your opponent the opportunity to make a continuation bet. Whether or
not he seizes this opportunity depends on a number of factors.
If he is a good player you know exactly what factors are necessary for him to make a contibet - the same
ones you would need. Remember the article "After the Flop: You Have Initiative" - You can make a
continuation bet with a good made hand, a strong draw, or when facing few opponents.
The more opponents you have and the heavier the draws on the board, the better it is to bet yourself. Even
an aggressive player will refrain from bluffing against three opponents. And since he will often miss the flop,
he probably won't keep betting.
A board with several open draws is even worse. The aggressor will hardly ever make a continuation bet and
the chances of someone catching up to your three-of-a-kind are even higher.
If it's just you and the aggressor, slowplay might be an option. You can play check/raise on a draw heavy
board, or check/call on a safe board.
It's OK to be a bit creative. You don't always have to check/raise - you can also make a small bet into a very
aggressive player. This will often be seen as a challenge and he may be provoked into putting even more
into the pot.
YOU HAVE POSITION ON THE AGGRESSOR
If you have position on an opponent who raised before the flop and checked after, your next move is simple:
You bet. The only way for money to enter the pot now that the aggressor has slowed down is to put it in
yourself.
Things get interesting when the aggressor makes a contibet. You'll have to look at the board before you
decide what to do. What draws are possible? Will it hurt to let your opponent(s) see the turn card?
It's certainly not a mistake to raise directly on the flop, but you can also just call on a drawless board.
A low flush and a low two pair should be played aggressively. Your opponent(s) can have a lot of outs; get
your money in while you're definitely still ahead.
Straights are more suitable for slow play, as long as there isn't a flush draw on the board.
You are on the BU
UTG1 bets $1
and CO fold
You call $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
UTG1 bets $2.50
You call $2.50
Here you see a good situation for slowplay. As you can see, there aren't any dangerous draws on the board
and an ace is showing. A great flop for a continuation bet (as you learned in the article 'After the Flop: You
Have Initiative'). This is the kind of flop a lot of players like to bet on even when they haven't hit anything.
Your opponent raised from early position. He probably has an ace or a pocket pair like tens or jacks.
Chances are that you will get more money out of any of these hands by just calling.
There are too many hands he could fold, such as pocket tens, if you raise. There's no need to be aggressive
on the flop. There are $8 in the pot on the turn, if your opponent bets there will be app. $20 in the pot on
the river, and you will both still have a good $15 in your stacks. You might be able to get to an all-in by the
time the river comes by just calling on the flop.
EXAMPLE 6 - FLUSH
You are on the BU
UTG1 bets $1
UTG2, UTG3, MP1 and MP2
fold
MP3, CO and you call $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (4): You, UTG1, MP3, CO - Pot: $4.35
UTG1 bets $2.50
MP3 and CO fold
You raise to $9
In this example you hit a strong hand, but any opponent with a higher spade has a draw for a better flush.
You already know what to do: Play a low flush aggressively on the flop and go all-in if possible.
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
MP1 calls $0.25
You are the SB
BU bets $1.25
You call $1.15
BB folds
UTG1 and MP1 call $1
Flop - Active Players (4): You, UTG1, MP1, BU - Pot: $5.25
You bet $3
This is a tough situation. If you know the BU is an aggressive player, you can try a check/raise, if not, you'll
have to bet yourself. With four opponents in the hand it's unlikely that someone else will bet and you don't
want to give the turn card away for free. All in all, it's almost always better to take the initiative yourself in
such a situation.
You are the SB

BU bets $1
You call $0.90
BB folds
You check
BU bets $1.40
You raise to $5
This time it's just you and the aggressor. He will almost always make a continuation bet in such a situation a good opportunity for a check/raise.
You have a worthless hand / weak draw

It won't take long to discuss your strategy when you miss the flop. You can occasionally bluff when it's just
you and the aggressor and he doesn't make a continuation bet. Against two opponents or more you'd need a
good reason to stay in the hand.

fold
You are in MP2
You call $0.25
MP3 and CO fold
BU bets $1.25
SB folds
BB and you call $1
BB and you check
BU bets $2.25
BB and you fold
There isn't much to say to this hand. You correctly called before the flop, but you didn't hit and there's
nothing left to do but fold.
You are on the BU

MP1 bets $1
You call $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (2): You, MP1 - Pot: $2.35
MP1 checks
You bet $1.40
Your hand isn't worth much, but the aggressor checked and there aren't any other opponents in the hand.
Either he is setting a trap or he has already given up his hand. Since chances are higher that he missed the
flop than that he has a monster hand, an opponent is more likely to fold to a bet than to have set a trap.
You can bet and see if he folds. If he doesn't, don't bother trying a second time. Either he has a big hand or
he suspects you're bluffing. Either way, there's no reason to invest any more money in the hand.
You have a strong draw

Your strategy with a strong draw is similar to your strategy for an unraised pot. It's not worth being
aggressive when your chances of winning are only between 25% and 45%.
You do have a good opportunity, however, to win the pot in a later round and get even more money out of
an opponent with a strong hand. If he has a hand like top pair or an overpair and your draw completes on
the turn you can usually get him to invest at least one more time before he gives up his hand. You might
even get his entire stack. These are all factors you have hopefully already read about in the article on
implied pot odds.
As a general rule of thumb we can say: You must be able to win at least twice as much as you invest on the
flop in later betting rounds to justify calling a pot sized bet on the flop. This means both you and your
opponent(s) have to have enough left in your stacks. And as tempting as it might be with a strong draw,
don't call any bets significantly larger than the pot size on the flop.
You are on the BU
UTG1 and UTG2 fold

UTG3 bets $0.50
MP1 calls $0.50
You call $0.50
SB folds
BB calls $0.25
Flop - Active Players (4): You, BB, UTG3, MP1 - Pot: $2.10
BB checks
UTG3 bets $1.75
MP1 folds
You call $1.75
This is an easy call for you. You have position on your opponent and a strong draw. Since your opponent is
betting from early position, you can expect him to have a strong hand that he will invest in on the turn and
river - even if another spade comes.
EXAMPLE 12 - OESD
UTG1 and UTG2 fold
UTG3 bets $0.50
You are on the BU
MP1 calls $0.50

You call $0.50
SB folds
BB calls $0.25
BB checks
UTG3 bets $4
MP1 and you fold
Folding is the best choice in this example. Your opponent's bet is almost twice the size of the pot, which
should be enough for you to get out of the way. And even if his bet weren't quite so high, your draw isn't
particularly strong with only 8 outs.
You learned about discounted outs in the article on odds and outs. The flush draw on the board means you
have to discount your outs in the example hand. The 8 and 3 of clubs would give you a straight, but would
also complete a flush draw. These two outs are no good and your chances of winning are lower than they
would be on a rainbow flop.
It would be foolish to invest a large amount of money with such poor chances of winning.
You have a medium made hand

This is the hardest kind of hand to play. You have a hand and don't really want to lay it down, but it isn't
good enough to start any action.
You might have the best hand, but it could get expensive to find out. Remember the rule: Big pots are for
big hands, small pots are for small hands. With a medium made hand like top or middle pair your goal isn't
to inflate the pot, but to get to the showdown as cheaply as possible. Pot control should be your main
concern. If an opponent shows aggression, it's rarely a mistake to fold such a hand.
The other problem is that you can never really know where you're at with your hand. And even when you
are ahead, your opponent(s) usually has outs that could show up on the turn or the river.
YOU HAVE POSITION ON THE AGGRESSOR
It's best to fold a medium made hand to a continuation bet when more than one other opponent is also in
the hand.
You already know why: The more opponents in the hand, the less likely that the contibet is a bluff. If a
player raises before the flop and bets into three opponents afterwards, he is pretty likely to have a pretty
strong hand.
Being alone against the aggressor doesn't change things much. You're best off folding to a contibet. Even if
you're ahead, your opponent is likely to have decent chances at catching up, and getting to the showdown
won't be cheap. A player raising from early position is signaling a strong hand - it's best to believe him.
If he raises from middle or late position, however, chances are higher that you're ahead. You can call a
contibet on a safe board. If he continues to bet on the turn, though, you'll have to get out of the way. Once
again, he probably isn't bluffing.
You could also raise directly on the flop. Ideally your opponent will fold; if he raises you'll at least know
you're beat and can get out of the way without investing any more.
Be cautious if he calls. If he then bets on the turn you're probably best off folding. If he checks, it's safest to
check as well. He obviously called with something on the flop and his hand will often be better than yours.
A draw heavy board should be played differently. If you're only facing one opponent, raise on the flop. Your
goal: To win the hand here and now. The jig is up if your opponent doesn't fold. Either he will let you get a
cheap showdown or you will have to fold before you get there.
YOU DON'T HAVE POSITION ON THE AGGRESSOR
You can often take the initiative and bet out of position, even against several opponents. This is a good way
to find out where you're at with your hand. A raise is your cue to fold. If you get called you'll have to make a
new decision on the turn.
EXAMPLE 13 - WITH AN OVERPAIR
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 bets $1
CO and BU call $1
SB folds
You call $0.75
Flop - Active Players (5): You, MP3, CO, BU - Pot: $4.10
You check
MP3 bets $3
CO, BU and you fold
Staying in the hand would be a poor investment. You have an overpair, but your opponent is either already
ahead, or he has a hand with good chances at beating yours. It's too bad you don't have the ace of spades you won't win a big pot with a pair of sevens.
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 bets $1
CO calls $1
BU and SB fold
You call $0.75
Flop - Active Players (3): You, MP3, CO - Pot: $3.10
You bet $2
MP3 folds
CO calls $2
This time you're facing fewer opponents and the board isn't as draw heavy as in the last example. This is a
good chance to make a bet and see if you can make your opponents fold. Once again, you'll have to fold to a
raise and make a new decision on the turn if you get called.
EXAMPLE 15 - WITH MIDDLE PAIR
You are in MP1
UTG1 bets $1
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You call $1
MP2, MP3, CO, BU, SB and BB

fold
Flop - Active Players (2): You, UTG1 - Pot: $2.35
UTG1 bets $1.50
You fold
There's no need to call this bet. Occasionally your sixes will be good, but most hands your opponent would
raise with have already left you in the dust. It would be a waste of money to invest any more money in the
hand.
EXAMPLE 16 - AN OVERPAIR WITH AN OESD
You are on the CO

MP2 fold
MP3 bets $1
You call $1
BU, SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players 2): You, MP3 - Pot: $2.35
MP3 bets $1.50
You call $1.50
This time you have a weak overpair, but, more importantly, you have an OESD. You can't give this hand up
without a fight.
In the last example you were facing a raise from a player in early position, this time the raise is coming from
a player in middle position. Your overpair is more likely to be ahead this time. And even if your opponent is
ahead at the moment, you still have the OESD.
Sometimes it's better to raise on the flop, but this time your cards are almost too good for that. If your
opponent reraises you will be forced to fold a nice hand.

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the BU
CO bets $1
You call $1
SB and BB fold
Flop - Active Players (2): You, CO - Pot: $2.35
CO bets $1.50
You raise to $5
This time raising is the best option. The board shows a few draws - it's also likely that someone has an ace
(gutshot). An overcard on the turn would put you in the dark.
It's always best to raise in such a situation. Once again, you'll have to fold to a raise and make a new
decision on the turn if you get called.

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How do you play on the turn?

YOU HAVE A STRONG MADE HAND
Your strategy with a strong made hand doesn't change much on the turn. If you haven't shown any
aggression yet, now is the time to take the initiative. Slowplay was OK on the flop, but now you need some
action.
The only time you shouldn't show aggression is when your opponent is so aggressive himself, that you're
more likely to get an all-in with more slowplay than with aggression. Most low limit players won't do this,
however, and too much slowplay results in missed opportunities.
YOU COMPLETE A DRAW
Always be aggressive when you make your draw on the turn. Not betting when your opponent has position
on you is always a mistake.
YOU HAVE A WORTHLESS HAND OR A WEAK DRAW
Your strategy with a worthless hand or a weak draw doesn't change much, either. You fold to any action
unless the turn card gives you a draw and there is only one opponent still in the hand. If your opponent
checked on the flop and/or turn because he missed the board, you can consider bluffing.
The main condition for bluffing is, as always: Your opponent has to be able to lay down a hand. If he likes to
stay in the hand or if you think he might have hit something, but doesn't want to bet on it, you should stay
away from a bluff. It may be worth a try, however, if there were only two or three players who saw the flop.
This, of course, is a semi-bluff, since the turn card gave you a draw. You should never make a full-blown
bluff on the turn.
YOU HAVE A MEDIUM MADE HAND
It's hard to play a medium made hand on the turn. If you called from position on the flop, you'll have to fold
to another bet on the turn. If your opponent checks, you should bet. As always, fold if he raises.
The reason you can bet when your opponent checks: the move 'bet flop/check turn' is an indication that
your opponent doesn't have a strong hand and would rather fold than invest more into the pot.
It's a different scenario if he called after you raised his bet on the flop. If he then plays the turn
aggressively, you should fold without hesitation - you are most likely facing a trap.
You have to be cautious even when your opponent checks. The safest move is to check and look at the river
card. You aren't in a profitable situation: Either you will push weaker hands out or you will pay better hands
off.
You have two choices when you're out of position. If your opponent didn't bet on the flop, you should seize
the opportunity and bet on the turn.
If your opponent already called a bet on the flop, there is little sense betting on the turn. It may not sound
logical not to bet on the turn, but doing so won't accomplish anything - there's hardly any hand that can call
and lose to you. In other words: You turn your hand into a bluff.
It doesn't matter that you have a made hand and could win a showdown. Betting is bluffing in this instance.
Weaker hands can't call; the only positive result a bet can have is forcing a better hand to fold - the
definition of a bluff.
You can consider betting on a draw heavy board, but only under one condition: You know your opponent
often folds on the turn after calling on the flop.
You are the SB

BU bets $1
You call $0.90
BB folds
You check
BU bets $1.40
You raise to $5
BU calls $3.60
You bet $8
BU calls $8
Unfortunately the nine isn't a great turn card. KQ would now have you beat; or, your opponent could get
scared and give up his hand. Still, you have a very strong hand and there are a lot of weaker hands that
could call your bet. You can even go all-in if you get raised.
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You call $0.25
You are in MP1
BU bets $1.25
The SB calls $1.15
BB folds
UTG1 and you call $1
Flop - Active Players (4): You, UTG1, SB, BU - Pot: $5.25
UTG1 checks
You bet $3
BU and SB fold
UTG1 calls $3
Turn - Active Players (2): You, UTG1 - Pot: $11.25
UTG1 bets $7
UTG1's call on the flop can mean a lot. He could have a draw with KQ, Q9 or 89, or have hit the J or T. It's
unlikely, though, that he has two pair or better.
Then a second jack turns up on the turn and your opponent suddenly starts to bet. JT is the only reasonable
hand that can beat you and it's unlikely that he is holding those two cards. You can assume you're well
ahead and want to get as much money into the pot as possible. His $7 bet is enough for you to respond with
an all-in.
It wouldn't be wise to call his bet. He is sure to have a made hand and would probably call with a straight
draw. There are also a few ugly cards, like a ten, that could turn up on the river. Now is the perfect
opportunity to put all your money in the pot.
You are on the BU
UTG1 bets $1
and CO fold
You call $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
UTG1 bets $2.50
You call $2.50
BB folds
UTG1 checks
You bet $4.50
The flop gave you a good opportunity for slowplay, but now that your opponent has checked it's time to bet
and increase the size of the pot. If your opponent had bet $4.50 instead of checking, you would only call. If
he were to bet less, you would raise, since your ultimate goal is an all-in.
EXAMPLE 21 - FLUSH
UTG1 and UTG2 fold
UTG3 bets $0.50
You are on the BU
MP1 calls $0.50

You call $0.50
SB folds
BB calls $0.25
UTG3 bets $1.75
MP1 folds
You call $1.75
BB folds
UTG3 bets $4
You raise to $10
This time you hit the nut flush on the turn. You could consider calling, since there can't be any better flush
draws out there. A raise is better, though, because you want to get him to put all his money into the pot.
EXAMPLE 22 - FLUSH DRAW + GUTSHOT
You are on the BU
UTG1 and UTG2 fold

UTG3 bets $0.50
MP1 calls $0.50
You call $0.50
SB folds
BB calls $0.25
BB checks
UTG3 bets $1.75
MP1 folds
You call $1.75
BB folds
UTG3 bets $4
You call $4
This is a borderline call. You can't be certain that your opponent will put more money in on the river. You
also don't have the right pot odds to play a flush draw.
However, since you also have a gutshot draw you can call. You would have had to fold if the turn card had
not given you the gutshot.
EXAMPLE 23 - MIDDLE PAIR
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 bets $1
CO calls $1
BU and SB fold
You call $0.75
You bet $2
MP3 folds
CO calls $2
Turn - Active Players (2): You, CO - Pot: $7.10
You bet $4
You chose to bet on the flop and got called by a player who didn't have initiative going into the hand. The
jack doesn't fit the range of hands he may have called with, which is why you might still be ahead.
Your opponent could have a smaller pair or a draw. You can't afford to give him the river card for free. You
also want to get information, which you can only do by betting.
Betting is the only right choice. As always, you will have to fold to a raise and make a new decision on the
river if you get called. An ace or a spade on the river would probably help your opponent and be your cue to
give up the hand.

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the BU
CO bets $1
You call $1
SB and BB fold
CO bets $1.50
You raise to $5
CO calls $3.50
CO and you check
This is another tough situation. If you know your opponent likes to see the showdown and doesn't fold often,
you can bet. A better player probably has you beat. He wouldn't just call with a draw out of position and
probably has a made hand.
The other problem is that he will probably fold any made hand you beat, but stay in with a made hand that
has you beat. The best thing to do is check and wait for the river card before deciding what to do next.

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How do you play on the river?

Not much changes in the last round. Continue to play made hands aggressively, give up worthless hands and
draws that didn't complete.
Medium made hands will be the source of your woes on the river. Your play will depend on the actions in the
previous betting rounds.
Take any chance you can to get to the showdown for free. We already discussed the problem with betting in
the turn section: you turn your hand into a bluff. Weaker hands won't pay you off. You need a strong made
hand to bet.
The question now is: What do you do when you are in position and an opponent bets in front of you? If he
called a bet on the turn and is now betting on the river, he probably has a better hand. You should only
consider calling if his bet is minimal in size.
Let's look at a different scenario: You called an opponents bet on the flop, both of you check on the turn,
then he bets on the river. You can call a bet not larger than 1/2 the size of the pot. You won't be ahead often
enough to justify calling a higher bet, though.
If your opponent has position on you, you have several choices. If you bet/raised on the flop/turn it's
unlikely that your opponent will invest any more in a hand weaker than yours. Checking is your best option,
if he bets you won't have to think long before folding.
If you both checked on the turn, you should make a small bet, a little under 1/2 the size of the pot. This will
prevent your opponent from making a bigger bet himself and you might get paid off by a weaker hand.
This is called a block bet. If he raises, you will know you're behind and can fold your hand.
You are the SB

BU bets $1
You call $0.90
BB folds
You check
BU bets $1.40
You raise to $5
BU calls $3.60
You bet $8
BU calls $8
An ugly river card, but you should still go all-in. There are $28 in the pot and you have $11 left in your
stack. You won't induce your opponent into betting with a weaker hand by checking, and since you're pot
committed, you'll only end up calling if he does raise. There are, however, weaker hands that he could call
with.
This is called a negative freeroll. If you have a very strong hand and the pot is so large, that you would
definitely call an all-in, take the initiative and bet, even if the river card could have given your opponent a
better hand.
If you just check, your opponent can check and see a free showdown, meaning he won't pay you off with a
weaker hand. You know you are going to call if he bets, so it doesn't matter if he just caught the best hand.
Any time a draw comes and you know you are pot committed, take the initiative and bet before an opponent
does.
You are on the BU
UTG1 bets $1
and CO fold
You call $1
SB folds
BB calls $0.75
BB checks
UTG1 bets $2.50
You call $2.50
BB folds
UTG1 bets $4.50
You call $4.50
River - Active Players (2): You, UTG1 - Pot: $17.10
UTG1 bets $8
This time you are in a completely different situation. You slowplayed the flop and the turn and hid the
strength of your hand. Your opponent might very well think you have a decent pair of aces. It's time to get
aggressive.
EXAMPLE 27 - A MISSED FLUSH DRAW

UTG1 and UTG2 fold
UTG3 bets $0.50
You are on the BU
MP1 calls $0.50

You call $0.50
SB folds
BB calls $0.25
BB checks
UTG3 bets $1.75
MP1 folds
You call $1.75
BB folds
UTG3 bets $4
You call $4
River - Active Players (2): You, UTG3 - Pot: $13.60
UTG3 bets $5
You fold
The decision on the river is easy. Calling on the turn was questionable, and now you have nothing on the
river. Folding is the only choice you have.
Don't take an opponent's check as an invitation to bluff. In fact, you should never bluff in such a situation. It
won't be hard for your opponent to figure out what's going on and there isn't a hand you can represent.
Bluffing when a flush doesn't complete is one of the gravest mistakes players in low limit games make. Your
opponent is in a perfect situation to play "check/call to induce a bluff" on you. Don't fall for it!
EXAMPLE 28 - MIDDLE PAIR
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 bets $1
CO calls $1
BU and SB fold
You call $0.75
You bet $2
MP3 folds
CO calls $2
You bet $4
CO calls $4
River - Active Players (2): You, CO - Pot: $15.10
You check
The river card leaves you with no other option than checking. True, only two gutshot draws may have
completed, but there is nothing to be accomplished with another bet. The weaker hands won't call, the
better ones won't be pushed out.
Few lower limit players bet on the river after calling twice with a draw. If an opponent does bet, he probably
has you beat. You should fold, unless his bet is minimal in size.

MP2 and MP3 fold
You are on the BU
CO bets $1
You call $1
SB and BB fold
CO bets $1.50
You raise to $5
CO calls $3.50
CO and you check
River - Active Players (2): You, CO - Pot: $12.35
CO bets $8
You fold
The 2 of hearts isn't a good card for your opponent to bluff on. He will usually have a very strong hand in
such a situation, for example a pair that is now a full house.
You should fold if you don't have a very good reason not to fold to a particular opponent. You will lose too
often. If he had checked you would be able to make a small bet (1/2 the size of the pot) with your hand.
Conclusion
No matter how you try to twist and turn it, calling a raise before the flop is rarely a good idea in No Limit
Hold'em. NL Hold'em is a game of aggression, you make a profit by consequently playing good cards
aggressively.
There are, however, cases in which it can be profitable to call a raise before the flop. You do this because
you have a speculative hand that could turn into something big. Any time you call a pre-flop raise with a
pocket pair, for example, you are speculating on a set.
Don't make the mistake of falling in love with a middle pocket pair that is also an overpair on the flop. This
isn't the profitable situation you are looking for. You'll have plenty of anger and frustration ahead of you if
you can't learn to lay down a medium made hand.
The last article in the Big Stack Strategy introductory series will discuss playing for unraised pots.
Go to this article: After the Flop - No One Has Initiative
After the Flop: No One Has Initiative

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Introduction
In this article we will cover...
why you should never play a made hand passively after the flop
why you need a strong hand to play for a big pot
why you should never bluff on the river
Whenever a player raises before the flop, that player has initiative going into the next round of betting - a
strong advantage. It is often the case, however, that no one chooses to raise before the flop is revealed.
This article will teach you how to play when no one shows aggression before the flop.
You can expect to find a wide variety of hands on an unraised flop. Players are often looking to see a cheap
flop with weak hands, such as suited hole cards.
The Big Blind can have any combination of cards, since he can simply check to see the flop and has no
reason to fold.
Usually several players are involved in such hands. Once the first player limps in, others tend to follow the
lead for a cheap look at the flop.
You will usually be facing several opponents with a wide range of possible hands, none of whom have
initiative. The most important reason why you need a strategy for unraised pots is the size of the pot. Since
there was no raise, the pot is significantly smaller.
EXAMPLE 1 - WITH A RAISE
UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2 and UTG3 fold
MP1 calls $0.25
You are on the

CO
MP2 and MP3 fold

You raise to $1.50
BU, SB and BB fold
Pot Size: $4.85.
EXAMPLE 2 - WITHOUT A RAISE

UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the
CO
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2 and MP3 fold
You call $0.25
BU and SB fold
BB checks
Pot Size: $1.10.
As you can see, the pot in the first example is more than 4 times as large as the pot in the second example.
The size of your stack in relation to the pot is different, as well. Whereas you have app. 5 times the pot size
left in your stack in the first example, you have app. 22 times the size of the pot left in your stack in the
second.
It should be obvious enough that you need a different strategy in the two example hands. You need a very
good reason to increase the size of an unraised pot. You've only invested a minimal amount of your chips,
the only reason why you should risk more: you have a good hand.
There's an old rule in poker: Never go broke in an unraised pot. It may only be a rule of thumb, but the
point is clear enough: You need a very strong hand before you turn a small investment into a big one.
This article will explain why this is and which hands you can play when no one raises before the flop. This
article will often refer to material found in the articles on the mathematics of poker, so it is important to read
those articles before continuing to read this one.
Go to this article: Mathematics of Poker - Odds and Outs
Go to this article: Mathematics of Poker - Implied Pot Odds
In the next section we will take a look at the following: how an unraised pot develops, what kind of hand
you need to get involved in the pot, and what you are hoping to hit.
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What kind of hand are you looking to hit?

There are two ways to see an unraised flop. Either you are the Big Blind and simply check, or you limp in
and no one else raises. A lot of players limp in from all possible positions, regardless if another opponent has
also limped in or not. Such players have a very wide range of hands and could be holding any two cards.
You, on the other hand, only limp in with the right hand and from the right position:
Either you are the Big Blind and check with every hand other than TT, JJ, QQ, KK, AA or AK, in which
case you raise.
Or, you invest from another position and limp in.

You should only limp in with cards that can be played well in an unraised pot, in other words, with
speculative hands, such as a small pair, an ace with a low, suited kicker, suited connectors and face cards.
As you can see in the Starting Hands Chart, you never limp in from early position. Whenever you play from
early position you raise. You already know the reasons why: Playing without initiative and without position
can get hairy and is often a good way to lose money.
You will usually only limp in with small pairs when everyone in front of you folds, since you can still call a
small raise behind you with such a hand. If you hit your set you'll probably take down the pot, if not you can
easily fold. It's not worth it to limp in with other cards and call a raise behind you. You won't hit often
enough to justify your investment.
You can only limp in with the other hands we've mentioned when at least one other opponent has already
limped in ahead of you. This increases the probability of getting paid off should you make your hand.
So what are you looking to hit? In general you are hoping to hit a set or to have a straight and/or flush draw
after the flop. In order to play for an unraised pot you need a hand good enough to play for a large pot with
- three-of-a-kind, straight, flush and, sometimes, two pair.
If you don't hit such a hand you can easily get out of the way as soon as somone bets. Borderline hands,
such as top pair, can be played with caution, but we will say more to that later.

You call $0.25
You are in MP1

BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (2): BB, BU - Pot: $0.85
In this example you have a small pair. Pairs are the only hand with which you are the first to limp into the
pot. We already mentioned why: you can still call a small raise behind you and see if you hit a set. You will
know whether or not you want to continue to play as soon as you see the flop.
This isn't the case with other hands, such as suited cards that could turn into a flush draw. First of all, you're
less likely to make your hand and secondly, you often end up playing a draw and investing heavily.

UTG1, UTG2, UTG3 fold

MP1 and you call $0.25
You are in MP2
MP3 and CO fold

BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (4): MP1, You, BB, BU - Pot: $1.10
EXAMPLE 5- SUITED HIGH CARDS

UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2 folds
UTG3 calls $0.25
You are in MP3
MP1 and MP2 fold

You call $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (5): You, BB, UTG1, UTG3, BU - Pot: $1.35
As you can see in the examples, you can limp in with speculative hands like suited connectors (56s) or two
high suited cards as long as at least one other opponent has entered the hand and you are in middle
position or later.
EXAMPLE 6 - ACE WITH A LOW, SUITED KICKER
UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the
BU
MP1 calls $0.25

You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You can limp in with an ace and a low, suited kicker from late position. You're speculating more on a
flush/flush draw than on a pair of aces. If you do hit an ace on the flop you could get into kicker trouble and
easily lose a lot of money with your top pair to a better ace.

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How strong is your hand?
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The strength of your hand depends on more than just the cards themselves. You can't just say: Since I have
a straight, I'm going all-in.
There are many factors that influence the strength of your hand. Here are the most important:
The cards themselves.
The number of opponents involved in the hand. The more opponents you face, the stronger your
hand must be.
Your position. How many opponents do you have ahead of/behind you? It's always better to have
the least number of opponents behind you as possible.
How are your opponents playing? If the rock suddenly gets aggressive on the flop you can fold your
pair without hesitation.
The first point deals with the absolute strength of your hand. Your hand will fall into one of the following
categories once the flop has been revealed:
Worthless hands
Weak draws
Strong draws
Medium made hands
Strong made hands
1. Worthless hands
Hands that are not made and do not have any drawing potential fall into this category.
Either you completely missed the flop or you have a weak hand, like middle pair. These are hands you will
almost always fold as soon as an opponent shows aggression.
EXAMPLE 7 - A COMPLETELY WORTHLESS HAND
You are the BB
UTG1 folds
UTG calls $0.25
UTG3 and MP1 fold
MP2 calls $0.25
MP3 calls $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
You check
Flop - Active Players (5): You, UTG2, MP2, MP3, BU - Pot: $1.10
This is a fairly obvious example of a worthless hand. The hand was and is garbage with grim perspectives.
As soon as someone bets, you fold.
EXAMPLE 8 - A VERY WEAK HAND
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the BU
MP1 calls $0.25

You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
In this example you do have a pair, but that's all you have. Every T and every J have you beat. Opponents
who don't have you beat yet still have plenty of chances to catch a higher card.
You on the other hand can only get help from the two 4s left in the deck. The chances of one of them
showing up in the community are slim. There's no reason to continue to invest in the hand.
EXAMPLE 9 - SLIGHT POTENTIAL
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the BU
MP1 calls $0.25

You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
This hand isn't much better than the last one, but your cards do have some potential. You now have 5 outs
(2 fives and 3 sixes) instead of just 2. You might even end up with a flush draw on the turn, though this
does not greatly increase your chances.
Overall you have more chances at bettering your hand than in the last example, but this is still a weak hand
and you will generally have to fold to any aggression.
2. Weak draws
Weak draws are hands that are not made, but have some potential to get better. There is a thin border
between weak draws and worthless hands. A small pair is relatively worthless on the one hand, but also a
weak draw on the other, as it can get better. This, however, is very unlikely.
Gutshot draws, bottom and middle pair, and overcards fall into this category. In general, it is not profitable
to play these draws. Let's look at a few examples:
EXAMPLE 10 - A BORDERLINE CASE
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the BU
MP1 calls $0.25

You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You may remember this example from the section on worthless hands. This hand is on the border between
worthless hands and weak draws.
What makes this a borderline case? There are 5 cards that can help this hand, two that would make threeof-a-kind, a strong made hand, and three that would make a relatively weak two pair.
This hand does have chances and could even win a showdown, but all in all, the potential isn't high. You
would have better chances in the next example.
EXAMPLE 11- GUTSHOT DRAW
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are the SB
MP1 calls $0.25
MP2, MP3, CO and BU fold
You call $0.15
BB checks
There are only four cards, the kings, that help you in this example. However, if you do hit you can be certain
that you have the best possible hand, the nuts. A draw for the nut straight obviously worth more than a
straight draw.
This is why you have to be careful with straight draws. If you aren't drawing for the highest possible
straight, your opponent might be. The card that helps you can also be your demise.
You should play these hands cautiously; it's likely that you will either win a small pot or lose a big one.
EXAMPLE 12 - A COMPLETELY WORTHLESS HAND
You are on the CO
UTG1 calls $0.25

UTG2, MP1, MP2 and MP3 fold
You call $0.25
BU and SB fold
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (4): You, BB, UTG1, UTG3 - Pot: $0.85
While any 8 would give you a straight, any opponent with a J would have you beat. It is also unlikely that
you will get paid off, even if you do have the best hand, as your opponents clearly see that anyone with a 6
or J would have a straight. You could also be facing a flush draw and end up behind at the showdown.
EXAMPLE 13 - SEVERAL WEAK DRAWS
You are on the BU
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
MP1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
Here you have six overcard outs for top pair, any spade would give you a flush draw, a 9 or an A a gutshot
draw, and a J an OESD. This isn't the strongest draw, but there are several cards that can help. Depending
on the situation at hand you can call a small raise with this hand.
3. Strong draws
This is where things start to get interesting. You can stay on the safe side by folding the types of hands
we've already covered on the flop. A strong draw, on the other hand, requires more attention.
A strong draw is a hand that can't win a showdown, but has very good chances of turning into a strong
hand. Flush draws and OESDs, along with so-called combo draws, fall into this category. A combo draw is a
draw that can hit in several ways, for example, a pair and a flush draw, or an OESD and flush draw.
Strong draws are good, but that doesn't mean you should play them at all costs. You will learn how to
continue to play a strong draw later.
EXAMPLE 14 - OESD
UTG1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP2
Flop - Active Players (4): You, BB, UTG1, BU - Pot: $1.10
A classic example of a strong draw is an OESD on a rainbow flop (a flop consisting of three differently suited
cards). You have 8 outs for the best possible straight, a nice situation to be in.
If you weren't drawing for the best possible straight, or if the flop showed suited cards, you would have to
devaluate the strength of your hand.
EXAMPLE 15 - A WORTHLESS OESD
UTG1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP2
In this example you have an OESD, but it is not as strong as in the previous example for two reasons:
A flush draw is possible.
You are only using one hole card and are not drawing for the best possible straight.
You are on the so-called idiot's end of the straight, meaning your hand only connects to the lower end of the
straight draw. If the turn shows a 7 and you go directly all-in with your straight, you would be making a
stupid, negligent mistake. Any 8 would have you beat.
Your OESD isn't worth much on this board and your hand is relatively worthless.
UTG1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP2
A flush draw is always a nice hand, provided you are using both of your hole cards. A better flush draw by
an opponent is theoretically possible, but not very likely. If another heart shows up on the turn you can
safely assume you have the best hand.
EXAMPLE 17 - A WORTHLESS FLUSH DRAW
UTG1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP2
This example shows the flip side of the coin. This flush draw is worthless for the following reasons: you are
only using one of your hole cards; every club higher than your 8 gives an opponent a better flush draw; and,
with three opponents still in the hand, it is likely that one of them has a better flush draw.
EXAMPLE 18 - A PAIR IN THE FLOP
UTG1 folds
You are in MP3
MP1 and MP2 fold
You call $0.25
CO, BU and SB fold
BB checks
You should always be cautious when a pair turns up on the board. A paired board puts you in danger of
facing a full house or trips that can turn into a full house.
Flush draws and straight draws depreciate in value on paired boards, especially when several opponents are
still in the hand.
The straight draw in this example is also weak for the following reasons:
You aren't drawing for the best possible straight. A ten would not necessarily give you the best
hand.
A flush draw is possible, which leaves you with only 6 discounted outs. Furthermore, your outs could
also be the same cards an opponent needs to turn his trips into a full house.
All in all this hand presents a weak draw and you should be very cautious if you choose to stay in the hand.
EXAMPLE 19 - A MONSTER DRAW
UTG1 folds
UTG2 calls $0.25
UTG3 folds
MP1 and you call $0.25
MP3 folds
CO calls $0.25
BU folds
SB calls $0.15
BB checks
You are in MP2
Flop - Active Players (6): You, SB, BB, UTG2, MP1, CO - Pot: $1.50
We'll conclude with an example of a true monster draw. Here you have a flush draw and an OESD. This gives
you a total of 15 outs - it doesn't get much better than this.
4. Medium made hands

Against several opponents, middle pair is a worthless hand. Against a few, however, it can be counted as a
medium made hand.
You will usually find top pairs with strong kickers, like K or Q, in multiway pots. You will hardly ever have an
overpair after limping in with a pocket pair.
These hands are strong enough for an investment, but you will usually have to give them up if an opponent
decides to stay in the hand - and especially if he gets aggressive.
EXAMPLE 20 - A VULNERABLE TOP PAIR
You are in MP1
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You call $0.25
MP2, MP3, CO, BU and SB fold
BB checks
Here you have a strong, but vulnerable hand. You will usually be ahead, but should proceed with caution. In
an unraised pot you could be facing any two cards from the BB. 22, JT or T2 would already have you beat.
EXAMPLE 21 - A SMALL OVERPAIR
You call $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP3
Here we see another strong, but very vulnerable hand. There are a lot of turn cards that could rob you of
your overpair. You could also be facing a flush and/or straight draw.
You could even already be behind and facing a completed straight, two pair, a set, or an opponent could
have limped in with a higher overpair.
There's no reason to immediately lose interest in the hand, but if an opponent shows aggression, especially
if several opponents are involved in the hand, you should get out of the way. You are probably either already
behind or facing a strong draw.
This is a dangerous board in a multiway pot. Even a higher pocket pair wouldn't put you in a great position.
The opposite is the case when only a few opponents are in the hand. You could then count this as a strong
made hand, which we will cover later in this article.
EXAMPLE 22 - BOTTOM TWO PAIR

You call $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB check
You are in MP3
The same applies for this hand. It is possible that you have the best hand at the moment, but there are a
number of cards that could break your back on the turn or river. Be cautious when playing bottom two pair
on this board, especially when several opponents are involved in the hand.
This hand isn't as strong as it appears. Any opponent with an 8 can catch a better two pair. You aren't
necessarily ahead and can easily still get beaten.
5. Strong made hands

The last category is made up of strong made hands. This category contains everything from a strong two
pair to a Royal Flush.
EXAMPLE 23 - TOP TWO PAIR
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 and CO call $0.25
BU and SB fold
You check
This time you have two pair consisting of your hole cards and the two highest community cards. This is
called top two pair and is much stronger than bottom two pair.
Right now there are only three hands that have you beat, pocket kings, fives and twos. It is very likely that
you do indeed have the best hand. However, several draws are possible. The possible flush draw and OESD
(43) are dangerous.
Your top priority should be protecting your hand by betting and making the turn card too expensive for your
opponents to see.
You are the BB
UTG1 and UTG2 fold

You check
Flop - Active Players (3): You, UTG3, MP1 - Pot: $0.85
Three-of-a-kind, in this example trips, is a strong hand. The only hands that have you beat: the last 4 with a
better kicker (J,K,A) or a full house (QQ or Q4).
A flush draw is possible, however, and seeing another Q would be disappointing. The last thing you should
do in such a standard situation is to open a bag of magic tricks and hope your opponent will fall into a trap.
You're best off with an aggressive bet, especially if several opponents are still in the hand.
What influence do your opponents have?

Aside from your cards themselves, you should always pay attention to your opponents and their actions.
The following factors will influence your decision making:
The number of opponents in the hand.
Your position.
Your opponents' play.

Remember this rule: The more opponents you are facing, the stronger your hand must be. Top pair with a
medium kicker is good against a single opponent, but it will rarely win the showdown against four or more
opponents.
Your position also plays a crucial role. How many opponents do you have ahead of you? How many might
raise behind you?
You already know that playing in position is always much more profitable than playing out of position. This
holds true for unraised pots, as well.
It's often better to fold a marginal hand than to play it out of position.
And last but not least, you should always pay attention to your opponents' actions. This doesn't mean trying
to get extraordinary reads on them, for example, that they have a monster hand when they wait 1.3
seconds to raise. The questions to ask are relatively banal, but the answers are decisive for your play:
How easily can he lay his hand down against a raise?
How often will he try to bluff you off your hand in later betting rounds?
If he doesn't fold on the flop, when does he?

You can play more loosely against players that can easily be brought to fold. You can often win small pots
with mediocre cards and a bet.
You have to play more tightly against players who like to call. When you do have a strong made hand,
though, you can make more profit, since they don't like to fold and often call on the flop, turn and river.
EXAMPLE 25 - TOP PAIR, RAISE FROM AN OPPONENT
UTG1 and UTG2 fold
UTG3 calls $0.25
You are the BB
MP1 and MP2 fold
MP3 calls $0.25
CO, BU and SB fold
You check
Flop - Active Players (3): You, UTG3, MP3 - Pot: $0.85
You bet $0.55
UTG3 raises to $2
MP3 folds
This is not a simple situation. However, it's almost always better to get out of the way and fold.
There are a lot of cards you don't want to see on the turn (A, T, 8, 5, 3 and any heart), should you call. You
are guaranteed to be facing a very tough decision later in the hand.
Reraising would be over the top - your hand just isn't strong enough. It's also quite possible that you're
already beat. It's unfortunate, but folding is the best decision to make in this example.

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How do you play after the flop?

Now that you're familiar with the basics and know what to pay attention to we can move to the more
concrete strategy and answer the question: What do you do with a given hand on a given flop against given
opponents?
You've already seen the categories which give you a basic guideline to follow. Remember: Never play a
made hand passively on the flop. Don't set traps and don't call bets with a mediocre made hand. Just play
straightforwardly.
The only exception to this rule is made when the SB bets. If he doesn't and you have a made hand, you
have two choices: Bet or fold.
You don't want to check and then call a bet behind you. You will have no idea where you're at with your
hand and will not be able to control the hand or the size of the pot.
Since bluffs on unraised pots are rare, you can be in two possible situations with your made hand:
You are ahead. Protect your hand and try to get money out of weaker opponents.
You are behind. Fold - your chances of winning are not high and won't get much better.
Worthless hands
You can give up all hands in this category without hesitation. It's simply not worth investing another BB into
such a hand.
EXAMPLE 26- A SMALL PAIR
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 folds
You are on the CO
UTG3 calls $0.25

MP1, MP2 and MP3 fold
You call $0.25
BU and SB fold
BB checks
BB bets $0.50
UTG calls $0.50
You fold
In this example you only have 2 outs. Your hand is trash and it's a waste of money to keep investing in it.
EXAMPLE 27 - A MIDDLE PAIR
UTG3, MP1, MP2 and MP3 fold
You are the BB
CO calls $0.25
BU folds
SB calls $0.15
You check
Flop - Active Players (5): You, SB, UTG1, UTG2, CO - Pot: $1.25
SB and you check
UTG1 bets $1
UTG2 calls $1
CO, SB and you fold
This time you have a stronger hand. You have middle pair and four outs for a better hand. There are,
however, flush and straight draws showing, and someone could have a pair of aces, since poor players tend
to play any hand with an ace.
If there are four or more opponents still in the hand it's probably a lost cause to continue playing; your hand
is worthless. There are too many open draws, too many opponents involved, and your hand barely has a
chance at getting better.
Weak draws
If you at least had a gutshot draw you could have considered calling a small bet in the last example, but $1
is definitely too expensive.
It would also be a different situation if you were only facing one or two opponents. If you're in position and
both check to you, you can bet 2/3 of the pot - but only if you know they can be brought to fold.
This is a bluff, of course, but a bluff with something instead of nothing. When you make a bluff with a hand
that isn't made yet, but does have outs, it's called a semi-bluff.
A semi-bluff can be useful when ...
... your hand can still turn into a strong made hand.
... you know you can make your opponents fold by betting.
You will sometimes win by making your opponents fold and other times when you get called and end up
making your hand. These two conditions must be fulfilled in order for semi-bluffs to be profitable. If you
don't have some kind of draw and your opponents can't be pushed out of the hand, there's no sense in
making a semi-bluff.
If you get called and don't hit on the turn, it's time to hit the brakes. It's rarely profitable to bluff a second
time and a semi-bluff that doesn't hit is ultimately just a bluff.
EXAMPLE 28 - GUTSHOT
You are the SB
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
MP1 calls $0.25
MP2, MP3, CO and BU fold
You call $0.15
BB checks
BB, you and UTG1 check
MP1 bets $0.25
You and BB call $0.25
UTG1 folds
You have four outs for the nut straight. You can call a minimum bet from a player with a full stack. If he bet
more you would have to fold. A semi-bluff on the flop against three opponents isn't a good option. You won't
win often enough when you get called, which is very probable with three opponents still in the hand.
EXAMPLE 29- GUTSHOT
You are the BB

MP2 fold
MP3 calls $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
You check
Flop - Active Players (3): You, MP3, BU - Pot: $0.85
You bet $0.55
MP3 and BU fold
This time you're only facing two opponents and can make a semi-bluff with your weak gutshot draw. If you
get called and don't hit a 5 on the turn, it's time to give up the hand.
Strong draws
Strong draws, the third hand category, can almost always be played on the flop. If an opponent shows too
much aggression, though, you will have to fold. A strong draw usually gives you a 30% chance at winning,
the only question is how to play it best.
Suppose, for example, you have A 2 on a 5 9 T board. You have a draw for the nut flush. If all your
opponents check to you, you should make a semi-bluff. Your bet should be between 2/3 and the full pot size.
You can do the same with a draw for the second best flush.
Combo-draws, such as a flush and straight draw, a flush draw with a pair, an OESD with a pair, or an OESD
with overcards, for example Q J on a 2 9 T flop, also belong to this category.
If someone bets in front of you, you should only continue to play if your opponent(s) has enough money left
to pay you off (implied pot odds) or if you're getting the right price (pot odds). You can learn more about
playing draws in the two articles on the mathematics of poker.
Go to this article: Mathematics of Poker - Odds and Outs
Go to this article: Mathematics of Poker - Implied Pot Odds
Reraising with a draw, even a strong one, in an unraised pot is overreacting. You will force other draws that
might have put money into the pot to fold and risk being reraised yourself.
If you have a weak draw, such as a low flush or straight draw, and are facing two or more opponents, it's
often best just to check and see what happens. If someone decides to bet you can decide based on the pot
odds whether or not you want to stay in the hand.
EXAMPLE 30 - OESD
You are in MP2
UTG1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
MP3 and CO fold
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
BB and UTG1 check
You bet $0.75
BU folds
This time you're facing three opponents, but you have a very strong draw. With 8 outs for the best hand you
can make a semi-bluff against this many oponents.
Even if the semi-bluff doesn't work, your chances at winning are twice as good as with a gutshot draw. You
also have position. This justifies a semi-bluff against so many opponents. If you were the BB instead of MP2,
for example, you could just as well check instead of betting.
EXAMPLE 31- A STRONG DRAW
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
MP1 calls $0.25
You are on the CO
MP2 and MP3 fold
You call $0.25
BU folds
SB calls $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (5): You, SB, BB, UTG1, MP1 - Pot: $1.25
SB, BB, UTG1 and MP1 check
You bet $1.10
SB and BB fold
UTG1 calls $1.10
MP1 folds
This time you have a strong flush draw and overcards, which make your draw even better. Normally you
should refrain from semi-bluffing against four opponents - you will rarely get them all to fold.
In this special case you can bet. The main reason: You're in position and there are also a lot of outs you can
hit on the turn or the river. If you do get called you will often make your hand and win the pot.
The only problem you could run into is a reraise, but this is unlikey, since everyone already checked.
EXAMPLE 32- A FLUSH DRAW
You are the SB

MP2 fold
BU folds
You call $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (4): You, BB, MP3, CO - Pot: $1.00
You bet $0.80
BB raises to $2
UTG1 and MP1 fold
We can't talk about draws without going into odds and outs. The question is whether or not it will be
profitable to call with your draw. If you've already read the articles on pot odds and implied pot odds you
should already be able to answer this question.
There are $3.80 in the pot after the raise. You have to pay $1.20 to stay in the hand. Your pot odds are
$3.80:$1.20, roughly 3:1. Theoretically you would have to fold, since you need 4:1 pot odds to call and see
the turn card with a flush draw.
But you also have implied pot odds. This means you can inflate your pot odds, because you can probably get
more money out of your opponent if you make your flush. It's also possible that your opponent won't
continue to bet on the turn when you call and you can see the river card for free.
Assume you make your flush on the turn. How much do you now have to get out of your opponent to justify
your call on the flop? The answer is simple.
As we said, you would normally need 4:1 pot odds to call with a flush draw. You have to pay $1.20 to see
the next card, meaning the pot has to be 4 * $1.20 = $4.80 for you to have 4:1 pot odds.
But there are only $3.80 in the pot. This means you still have to get another $1 out of your opponent, which
you should be able to do if you make your flush, since he raised your bet on the flop with two other
opponents in the hand. This is a sign that he has a strong hand that he won't want to fold.
Medium made hands

Medium made hands should be played with caution, but you don't necessarily have to give them up on the
flop. You will often have the best hand when facing one or two opponents.
You should always bet when everyone in front of you checks. If a raise comes behind you, no matter the
size, you'll have to fold.
As we said at the beginning, you need a strong hand to play for an unraised pot. Top pair isn't enough to call
a raise with.
If someone ahead of you bets, you raise, as long as there aren't too many other opponents in the hand. This
is a way to get information and find out where you stand with your hand. If another raise comes, you know
you're beat and fold. If you get called you will have to decide what to do based on the turn card and the
opponent.
If there aren't any draws on the board and someone bets, you can call and see the turn card, provided three
opponents or less are in the hand. Just don't make a habit of it.
EXAMPLE 33 - WITH TOP PAIR
UTG1 calls $0.25
You call $0.25
BB checks
You are in MP1
BB bets $0.50
UTG1 calls $0.50
You raise to $2.25
BB reraises to $7.30
UTG1 and you fold
In this example your top pair falls into the medium made hand category. Since so many draws are possible,
you should raise the bet in front of you to protect your hand and get information on the strength of your
opponents' hands.
In our example the BB chose to reraise. This is a sure sign that he has you beat this time.
You are the BB

BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
You check
Flop - Active Players (3): You, SB, BU - Pot: $0.75
SB checks
You bet $0.60
BU calls $0.60
SB folds
We already determined this is a borderline hand that could go either way. Your only two opponents are the
SB and BU, who probably would have raised before the flop if they had a strong hand. This makes a bet
possible. The call from the BU means you'll have to make another decision on the turn.
Strong made hands

It's easy to play strong made hands on the flop. You should only give them up when you're absolutely
certain your opponent has you beat.
You will almost always play these hands aggressively. You have a strong hand and want to increase the size
of the pot, which is small at the moment. And the only way to get money into the pot is to start putting
money into it. As always, your bet should be between 2/3 of the pot and the full pot size.
When you raise an opponent's bet, use this formula to determine the size of your raise:
Raise = Pot (including the current betting round) + 2 * opponent's bet.
EXAMPLE 35
UTG1, UTG2 and UTG3
You call $0.25
You are in MP1
BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (4): You, SB, BB, BU - Pot: $1.00
SB checks
BB bets $0.70
You raise to $3.10
BU, SB and BB fold
It's unfortunate that everyone folded, but at least you won a small pot and didn't lose a big one on a bad
beat.
There was $1 in the pot before the flop and your opponent bet another $0.70 into the pot.
Your raise should therefore be: $1.70 + 2 * $0.70 = $3.10
If there weren't such dangerous flush and straight draws on the board you wouldn't have to protect your
hand so strongly and could bet less.
EXAMPLE 36
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the CO
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2 and MP3 fold
You call $0.25
BU and SB fold
BB checks
BB bets $0.50
UTG1 raises to $1.50
MP1 folds
You reraise to $6
Despite all the action you're probably ahead with your low flush. The last thing you want to see, however, is
another diamond, ace, ten or nine on the turn. You need to protect your hand and get as much money into
the pot as you can while you're ahead.

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How do you play the turn?

A new round begins with the turn card. You will be in one of two possible situations:
Someone bet on the flop.
No one bet on the flop.

If no one raised, you can continue to play as on the flop. If you didn't have a made hand on the flop and hit
the turn, top pair, for example, you bet. If not, you check/fold on the turn. If you land on a draw you can
continue to play with the right pot odds. You need 11:1 for a gutshot draw, 4:1 for a flush draw, 5:1 for an
OESD, for example. You should only call when you are sure that no one will raise behind you.
If someone bet on the flop and you're still in the hand, you should be holding either a medium made hand,
or a draw. We'll start with the made hand.
If you're facing more than one opponent on the turn and one of them bets, you should fold a medium made
hand. You can call with a draw and the right pot odds, as long as you are certain no one will raise behind
you.
If your hand was able to improve, to two pair, for example, your decision will depend on the board and your
opponents' play. Two pair probably isn't the best hand on a board with four hearts. If you are sure you do
have the best hand, though, you should bet or raise.
Draws
EXAMPLE 37- A FLUSH DRAW
MP1 calls $0.25
You are on the BU
You call $0.25
SB calls $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (4): You, SB, BB, MP1 - Pot: $1.00
SB, BB and MP1 check
You bet $0.80
SB calls $0.80
BB and MP1 fold
Turn - Active Players (2): You, SB - Pot: $2.60
SB checks
You bet $2
In our example you are in position and your opponent checks to you. You played your draw aggressively on
the flop, but missed on the turn.
You have two options:
You check - You can check and take a free card. This keeps the pot small and you get to see two
cards for the price you paid on the flop.
You bet - This can work against an opponent who can lay his hand down. You're making a second
semi-bluff and can either win by making your opponent fold or by making your flush on the river. If you
don't make your flush on the river, or if you get reraised, you'll have to give up the hand.
EXAMPLE 38 - A FLUSH DRAW
MP1 calls $0.25
You are on the BU
You call $0.25
SB calls $0.15
BB checks
You bet $0.80
SB and BB call $0.80
MP1 folds
Turn - Active Players (3): You, SB, BB - Pot: $3.40
SB, BB and you check
We see the same situation, but this time you're facing two opponents. A semi-bluff isn't a good idea this
time. You should check and see if an opponent bets.
If so, calculate your odds and compare them to the pot odds before you decide how to continue.
Assume you had a made hand and bet on the flop. Would you still bet on the turn? Are you sure you're still
ahead of your opponent(s)? Which draws are possible? What hands could beat you? Could the turn card
have helped anyone? How many opponents are in the hand and how have they been playing?
You would bet on the turn with a strong made hand, and probably with an overpair or top pair, as well. You
wouldn't bet, however, if a draw came or an overcard showed up on the turn. If you were only facing one
opponent you might still be able to play your hand, but not against two. Remember, the more opponents you
are facing, the stronger your hand must be.
If an opponent raises your bet, you'll have to fold anything but a strong made hand, in which case you put
your money in the pot.
EXAMPLE 39 - A WEAK OVERPAIR
You call $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP3
You bet $1.10
BU calls $1.10
BB, UTG1 and UTG2 fold
You bet $2.75
BU folds
You should like the turn card. When the board pairs low on the turn it is usually a good sign for your
overpair. If you were ahead on the flop you probably still are.
There are a lot of possible draws. You have to protect your hand and want your opponents to pay for their
draws. There's no way around it - you have to bet. If you get raised, you're probably beat and can fold your
hand. Your opponent probably isn't bluffing and a bluff is almost all you can beat with your hand.
EXAMPLE 40 - A WEAK OVERPAIR
You call $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP3
You bet $1.10
UTG1 and UTG2 fold
BB and you check
BU bets $3
BB calls $3
You fold
You're facing two opponents and see a scare card on the turn - time to give up the hand. The diamond ace
could have completed a flush draw, an OESD (32) or given an opponent top pair. You're in an unprofitable
situation and should get out of the way.
You only had a medium made hand on the flop against two opponents and now you're facing the worst
possible turn card.
Medium made hands

When you're facing a single opponent with a medium made hand, you have to estimate the strength of his
hand before you decide how to play your hand. You can fold to a bet, or call if you think he often has a
weaker hand and doesn't bluff on the river. Be careful, though: Don't get into the habit of calling on the turn
and folding on the river.
If your opponent checks, you'll have to decide whether you're better off checking or betting. You have two
standard moves you can choose from:
Check Behind Turn, Call River

The advantages:
You keep the pot small.
You induce your opponent to bluff on the river.

The disadvantages:
You don't protect your hand.
You miss the chance to get money out of your opponents' draws.
This is a good move against aggressive opponents on drawless boards. You don't have to protect your hand
against a draw and your opponent is aggressive enough to try a bluff on the river.
If you check on the turn and your opponent does, as well, you'll have to ask yourself again if it's a good idea
to invest on the river. Are there worse hands that could call a bet? Are there better hands that could fold?
How many hands could beat you? In general, though, it's best to go to the showdown without betting.
If you do bet, you'll have to have the discipline to fold to a raise.
Bet Turn, Check Behind River
The advantages:
o
You protect your hand.
You get money out of opponents' draws.
You can bluff an opponent off of a better hand.
You determine the price for which you see the showdown.
The last point is especially interesting. By betting on the turn you can determine the price for the showdown.
Assume there are $10 in the pot and your opponent checks on the turn. It's possible that he will bet $10 on
the river if you check, too. If you bet $6 on the turn, however, he probably won't bet on the river, meaning
that these $6 get you to the showdown as well. You save $4, get to see the showdown, and can get money
out of a draw.
The disadvantages:
You risk being check/raised.
You don't induce your opponent to bluff on the river with a weaker hand.
This is a good move against most of the passive players you'll find in lower limits, as long as there are draws
on the board, or if you think your opponent has a weaker hand. You can even bet on the river, depending on
the card that shows up.
You should fold to a raise on the turn. Your opponenet probably isn't bluffing and it's probably too expensive
to find out.
EXAMPLE 41 - A MIDDLE PAIR

You are the BB

BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
You check
SB checks
You bet $0.60
BU calls $0.60
SB folds
You bet $1.50
BU folds
The board is draw heavy and the turn card probably didn't help your only opponent. You don't have to bet,
but there are reasons to do so.
It wouldn't be profitable to bet against two opponents or on a bad turn card, such as a nine, jack, queen or
diamond.
EXAMPLE 42 - A WEAK TOP PAIR
You are the BB

MP2 and MP3 fold
CO calls $0.25
BU folds
SB calls $0.15
You check
SB bets $0.50
You and CO call $0.50
Turn - Active Players (3): You, SB, CO - Pot: $2.25
SB bets $1.50
You fold
In this example we see a typical mistake made by players in lower limits. You are stuck between two
opponents. The flop shows a pair of eights and a nine, giving you top pair with a decent kicker.
The player in front of you bets. You don't have to, but you can call here, which you do in the example. There
aren't many draws possible - your opponent could have an eight, a better nine, an overpair, and underpair,
or he may be bluffing.
Once the player behind you calls, you know you can't invest any more if your hand doesn't get better.
The turn card probably didn't help anyone and the SB bets again, even though two players called him on the
flop. If he doesn't have your top pair of nines beat, the player behind you might. He also might raise after
you call.
You're stuck between a rock and a hard place with this hand. The player behind you makes things even
worse. You can't know where you're at with your hand and are left guessing - something you never want to
do in poker.
All in all you're in a dangerous situation with a marginal hand and there's no reason for you to call on the
turn.
Strong made hands

If you were in the same situation with a strong made hand, two pair or better, you would continue to bet.
You would have to fold two pair to a raise. A straight probably wouldn't be good, either. You could continue
to play with three-of-a-kind, however, since you might be ahead and would still have a chance at making a
full house. That would depend on the board, however, and if your opponent clearly has a very strong hand
you can fold three-of-a-kind, as well.
As long as the turn card isn't dangerous, i.e., can't complete a flush or straight draw, you can continue to
play a strong made hand on the turn and try to get as many chips as possible into the pot.
EXAMPLE 43 - A FLUSH ON THE TURN
MP1 calls $0.25
MP2 folds
BU folds
You call $0.15
BB checks
You are the SB
Flop - Active Players (5): You, BB, MP1, MP3, CO - Pot: $1.25
You and BB check
MP1 bets $1
MP3 calls $1
CO folds
You call $1
BB folds
You bet $3
MP1 raises to $6
With so many opponents involved in the hand it's best to play the flop passively. Since you and MP1 still
have plenty of chips, you can easily call his bet. Then you make your flush on the turn.
Now you should get active. Checking won't get you far - the third heart will probably scare your opponent
and keep him from betting again. However, you will often get called in lower limits by players who would
otherwise check. Maybe they think you are bluffing, for example.
If someone raises, like our example shows, you reraise or go all-in, depending on the stack sizes. In this
example it would be best to go all-in after the raise. Your hand is definitely strong, but it does need
protection and a normal raise would only make you pot committed. A fourth heart on the river could cost
you your stack.
EXAMPLE 44 - WITH TWO PAIR
You call $0.25
CO folds
BU calls $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
You are in MP3
You bet $1.20
BU folds
UTG2 folds
BB and UTG1 check
You bet $3.50
BB raises to $8
UTG1 and you fold
You've probably encountered such a situation. You make a standard bet on the flop and should bet on the
turn after both opponents check. Be aware that opponents will probably call with a flush draw or a weaker
made hand. By betting again you also keep the initiative - checking would mean giving up control and not
knowing where you stand with your hand.
But then the BB plays check/raise against several opponents on the turn, a move that indicates a very
strong hand. He probably has a flush. Your two pair isn't good and folding is the right choice.
If the BB were to bet directly, or donk, you wouldn't necessarily fold. The rule of thumb says: If an opponent
donks on a turn card that completes a possible draw, raise with three-of-a-kind or better. You could consider
calling with two pair, but would have to fold on the river if your hand doesn't get better. Anything less should
be folded.

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How do you play the river?

Now you've made it to the last betting round. If no one has showed interest and bet yet, don't just bluff,
look at your hand and ask yourself if it makes sense to ...
... bet because enough hands will call and pay you off.
... call a bet behind you because the opponent could have weaker hand.
If no one bet on the flop or the turn, you can bet 1/3 of the pot with top pair or middle pair. Don't invest in
anything less.
If there was action in the previous rounds you will play differently. If you had a draw, but didn't hit, give up
the hand, regardless how you played it so far. Unraised pots aren't worth bluffing for, especially in lower
limits.
If you have a made hand you'll have to ask yourself what hands your opponents could have. You also have
to take the cards on the board and your opponents' previous actions into consideration.
Can you bet with your hand? What's on the board and what have your opponents done so far? Which hands
are possible? Which of those are better, which worse? If only one opponent raises is it likely that he has a
worse hand?
If you decide to call, be aware of the following:
Situation A: An opponent bets, you call.
Situation B: An opponent bets, a second opponent calls, you call.

Both situations look similar. You could even win more in Situation B, since a second opponent put money
into the pot, too. There is one key difference, however.
You only have to beat one opponent in Situation A. In Situation B you have to beat two opponents, and you
can be certain that the one who called has a made hand and thinks he will win at the showdown.
The more players you have in front of you, the stronger your hand must be to call a bet on the river. You
would probably have to fold a hand like middle pair or top pair with a weak kicker in Situation B - you simply
wouldn't have good chances at beating two players.
Draws
EXAMPLE 45 - A FLUSH DRAW THAT DOESN'T COMPLETE
MP1 calls $0.25
You are on the BU
You call $0.25
SB calls $0.15
BB checks
You bet $0.80
SB calls $0.80
BB and MP1 fold
Turn - Active Players (2): You, SB - Pot: $2.60
SB checks
You bet $2
SB calls $2
River - Active Players (2): You, SB - Pot: $6.60
SB and you check
In this example you played your draw aggressively on the flop and on the turn. There's no point in investing
in the river. The SB has already called you twice and probably won't fold to a bet on the river. The only hand
he might give up is a weaker flush draw, which you already have beat.
Medium made hands

Things get interesting when you make a medium made hand on the river. If you were the aggressor in the
previous rounds your play will depend heavily on the cards in the community.
As long as no big draws were possible on the flop, you should bet 1/3-1/2 the size of the pot. If you get
raised, fold the hand.
If you're in position and the river completes a possible draw you should try to get to the showdown for free.
If you're out of position and facing no more than two opponents you can make the same sized bet. Once
again, if a raise comes you know you're beat.
A raise on the river is rarely a bluff. If you check, however, you will often face a bet from an opponent
behind you and not know if you should fold the worse hand or call with the better hand.
Unfortunately, a lot of opponents won't bet after you check, because they are afraid of the flush, for
example. They are, however, willing to call a bet from you. By betting and folding to a raise you lose the
same as by checking and calling a bet with a losing hand. On the other hand, you can expect opponents to
call who would have otherwise checked, which means you win that much more when you don't get raised by
a better hand.
If you're out of position and think your opponent is on a flush draw that doesn't complete on the river, you
can play "check/call to induce a bluff."
This means that you check with the intent to call an opponent's bet. Your opponent will hardly call a bet if he
is on a flush draw that didn't complete, but he might be tempted into a bluff.
The community cards and your opponents' play should influence your decision to set a trap or to bet directly.
There aren't any guidelines you can learn and follow, but with enough practice you will get a feel for the
game and be able to make the right decision.
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You call $0.25
BB checks
You are in MP1
BB bets $0.50
UTG1 calls $0.50
You raise to $2.25
BB calls $1.75
UTG1 folds
BB checks
You bet $4.50
BB calls $4.50
BB and you check
There's no more room to bet with this hand. Your opponent thought his hand was worth $4.50 on the turn;
either he has a made hand or a draw. If he was on a draw, he either made it, in which case a bet would
mean losing even more, or he didn't, in which case he won't call your bet anyway.
Given the board, there could hardly be a worse hand out there that could call; there could be quite a few,
however, that have you beat. You should be happy that your opponent checked to you and that you can get
to the showdown for free.
You are on the BU
UTG1 calls $0.25

and CO fold
You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
BB and UTG1 check
You bet $0.50
BB calls $0.50
UTG1 folds
BB checks
You bet $1
BB calls $1
BB checks
You bet $2
BB folds
This is a completely different situation. Your opponent hasn't given any sign of strength. He probably
wouldn't have called your bet on the turn with just bottom pair and is likely to have hit the king or the ten.
You have most pairs beat and your opponent will probably pay you one more time on the river. After having
seen so much weakness you can bet a third time - sometimes you'll get more money out of the weaker
hand.
EXAMPLE 48 - TOP PAIR, OVERCARD ON THE RIVER
You are on the BU
UTG1 calls $0.25

and CO fold
You call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
BB and UTG1 check
You bet $0.50
BB calls $0.50
UTG1 folds
BB checks
You bet $1
BB calls $1
BB and you check
There's no need to bet on the river card. The OESD (QJ) may have completed and your opponent might be
waiting for you to bet again. You won't get any more money out of him if he only has a pair of tens, the only
hand that he could pay you off with is a weaker pair of kings.
It's not worth betting in such a marginal situation, the best thing you can do is check and go to the
showdown.
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the CO
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2 and MP3 fold
You and BU call $0.25
SB folds
BB checks
Flop - Active Players (5): You, BB, UTG1, MP1, BU - Pot: $1.35
BB, UTG1 and MP1 check
You bet $1
BU calls $1
BB, UTG1 and MP1 fold
You bet $2.25
BU calls $2.25
You bet $3.50
BU raises to $9
You fold
A third club shows up in the river and you have to decide: Bet or check?. The right answer: Bet. Here's why:
If you don't bet you can't get paid off by a weaker hand. Your opponent could easily call with a weaker pair
of jacks; if he completed a flush draw he will tell you with a raise, your sign to fold. Remember, a raise on
the river is rarely a bluff.
You are the BB

BU calls $0.25
SB calls $0.15
You check
SB check
You bet $0.60
BU calls $0.60
SB folds
You bet $1.50
BU calls $1.50
You check
BU bets $2
You fold
There's no point in investing any more on the river. This hand didn't play out for you and it's time to give it
up. The bets on the flop and turn were questionable, your opponent could have bluffed with two diamonds,
but it's just as likely that he has a ten, queen or a two. Folding is the most profitable decision you can make.
EXAMPLE 51 - TOP PAIR, A HARMLESS RIVER CARD
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the CO
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2 and MP3 fold
SB folds
BB checks
You bet $1
BU calls $1
You bet $2.25
BU calls $2.25
You check
BU bets $3
You call $3
We've already discussed this case. The flop shows a flush draw and your opponent passively calls your bets
on the flop and turn. It's quite possible that he is indeed on a flush draw. Once the river comes, his hand is
worthless.
This is a good chance to induce a bluff by playing check/call. Even if he wasn't on a flush draw, he might be
tempted to bet with a small pocket pair just because he doesn't think you have anything.
EXAMPLE 52 - TOP PAIR, A HARMLESS RIVER CARD
UTG1 calls $0.25
UTG2 and UTG3 fold
You are on the CO
MP1 calls $0.25

MP2 and MP3 fold
SB folds
BB checks
You bet $1
BU calls $1
You bet $2.25
BU calls $2.25
You bet $3.50
BU folds
If the flop doesn't show any draws you can make a moderate bet on the river, but you'll have to fold to a
raise.
Strong made hands

You should always bet with a strong made hand. Depending on your opponents' willingness to pay your bets
should between 1/2 and the full pot size. This counts when you complete a draw on the river, too.
You can't assume your opponent will bet if you check. If you've played your draw passively and only called,
it will be up to you to bet on the river. Your opponents will only check all too often and you will miss out the
chance to get more money out of them with your strong made hand.
EXAMPLE 53 - WITH A FLUSH
MP1 calls $0.25
You are in the SB
MP2 folds
BU folds
You call $0.15
BB checks
Flop - Active Players 5): You, BB, MP1, MP3, CO - Pot: $1.25
You and BB check
MP1 bets $1
MP3 calls $1
CO folds
You call $1
BB folds
You bet $3.50
MP1 calls $3.5
MP3 folds
River - Active Players (2): You, MP1 - Pot: $11.25
You bet $7
MP1 folds
This hand is easy to play: You always play a strong made hand aggressively to give your opponent another
chance to lose money to you.
Conclusion
You now know how to play in a hand in which no one raised before the flop. You've seen example hands for
the different situations you will regularly face and learned when and why to invest in certain situations and
not in others.
Don't be tempted into playing a made hand passively on the flop; you should either raise or fold with a
made hand. It's much more important to get information on the strength of your opponents' hands in a
small unraised pot than in a large raised one.
The best way to get information is to bet. If you remain passive and an opponent bets behind you, you won't
know what kind of hand he might have.
If you bet and he raises he probably has a monster hand. This is the information you're looking for and the
only way to get it is by betting.
You should generally avoid any tricks or traps in an unraised pot and just play good, solid poker. You haven't
invested much, the pot is small, and your opponents have a wide range of possible hands. You only want to
increase the size of the pot when you have a very strong hand.
Remember: Playing for a large pot with a medium made hand when no one raised before the flop is always a
big mistake.
How to Play Strong Draws
Video: Click here
Introduction
In this article
The basics when playing a drawing hand
Shifts in equity and semi-bluffs
Differences between being in and out of position
This article will teach you the best way to play strong draws. A strong draw is defined as a hand with more
than 8 outs (for a strong hand) and no showdown value.
We will look at playing with strong draws from a mathematical standpoint. This isn't always easy; you will
almost never be getting the right pot odds to call with a draw. The implied odds, however, are usually much
higher than the pot odds you would need to call.
The fact that you can vary the size of your wager also allows semi-bluffing to be very effective. You can
often generate enough fold equity to make semi-bluffs a very profitable part of your game.
The next section will give you a systematic walk-through in playing with strong draws and provide examples
of how to play in concrete situations.
The basics
Implied odds
The implied odds are naturally much higher in NL Hold'em than FL Hold'em. You can often expect to get a
pot size bet (PSB), or at least a half pot size bet (HPSB), in the coming betting round(s).
Always keep an eye on the stack sizes. If yours or your opponent's is too small, you won't be getting good
implied odds. You can only win what you and your opponent both have.
EXAMPLE
Assume there are 12 BBs in the pot and you have a nut flush draw with 9 outs (the board is not paired).
Your opponent bets 8 BBs. The pot odds are at 1:2.5; you need 1:4.22 pot odds to make a correct call with
a 9 outer (calculated as follows: [1-(9/47)]/(9/47))
When you assume that your opponent will usually bet 1/2 pot on the next street, your implied odds for
calling are much higher.
Calculating the implied odds:
Pot on flop: 12 BBs
Size of opponent's bet: 8 BBs
Pot on turn after calling: 28 BBs (12 BBs+8 BBs+8 BBs)
Implied odds for calling on the flop: 1 : [("Pot on flop" + "Opponent's bet" + "Expected profit if you hit on
the next street") / ("Opponent's bet")
Implied odds = 1 : [12+8+28/2)/8] = 1 : 4.25
As we said, you need 1:4.22 pot odds to make a correct call. Your implied odds for calling are 1:4.25,
enough to justify staying in the hand.
You will not, however, always bet getting very good implied odds with a drawing hand. In fact, you often
won't have very high implied odds at all after hitting. This is the case when your previous action makes your
completed draw too obvious.
The more obvious your draw (esp. flush draws and one card straight draws), the more realistic and
pessimistic you must be when estimating your implied odds. Your implied odds are, in part, defined by the
way your opponent interprets the flop texture.
Shifts in equity when holding a strong draw

In order to really understand playing with strong draws, you have to know how your equity shifts on the turn
when you miss. You should already know that your equity is always higher on the flop, since you have still
have two chances (turn and river) to complete.
You only have one more chance to complete once you're on the turn. This results in a loss in equity. The
following chart should make this very clear:
Equity shift from flop to turn
Your hand
Opponent's
hand
A 7
T 9
K Q
J T
K Q
J T
Flop
T 9 2
J T 2
J T 2
Equities on
flop
Turn
Equities on
turn
Relative
loss in
equity
36.46:63.54
20.45:79.55
43.9%
32.83:67.17
18.18:81.82
44.6%
53.32:46.68
34.1:65.9
36.1%
These three situations show how your equity with a strong draw shifts from flop to turn. You have to
complete an obvious flush/straight draw, or hit runner runner two pair to win the hand.
As you can see, a blank card on the turn results in an equity loss of 36.1-43.9%. The simple conclusion from
this is that you should be more willing to go broke with a draw on the flop than on the turn, since you will
always have more equity on the flop if you are behind and have to hit to win.
The logic can be applied to made hands, as well. You should be more willing to go broke against a draw after
a blank card on the turn than on the flop.
Bet/raise, call or fold?

Unfortunately, it isn't easy to say whether you should play your draw aggressively or passively (or even if
you should simply fold). So far all you know is that if you're going to go broke with a drawing hand, you
should do so on the flop in order to maximize your equity against made hands.
A mathematical analysis on playing with strong draws is very complex and doesn't give us any exact
answers, since there are so many unknown variables. You will usually have to adapt your play to your
opponent's playing style and can't really develop any standard line for playing strong draws. We will start by
establishing general guidelines and look at examples of how they can be put to practice.
When should you fold?

You should fold when ...
... you do not have sufficient implied odds to call and when semi-bluffing is out of the question.
... you are too likely to already be drawing dead. This can be the case, for example, when you have
a flush or straight draw on a paired board and risk running into a full house.
... you have a strong draw but are still often dominated. This can be the case when you are not
drawing for the nut flush or when your hole cards are on the bottom end of an OESD.
When should you call?

You should call when ...
... you cannot generate sufficient fold equity by semi-bluffing but do have sufficient implied odds to
call. This is often the case when a passive opponent suddenly bets the flop.
... your opponent is too likely to re-raise your semi-bluff and force you to fold (either because the
odds are too poor or because you're too much of an underdog). This is often the case when an aggressive
opponent is protecting a made hand on a draw heavy board.
When should you bet/raise (semi-bluff)?

You should bet/raise when ...
... you can generate high fold equity and when there is already a fair amount of money in the pot.
... you have so many outs that you have very good equity against made hands.
... you are in position and your opponent is likely to let you take a free card on the turn.
... you are heads up against an opponent who overplays one pair hands and often takes them to the
showdown on principle. This is a good spot to build up the pot so that you can make big value bets on later
streets.
How large should a semi-bluff be?

This answer can be based on empirical observations which hold true in most situations.
Minraises rarely generate high fold equity. They are rarely effective as semi-bluffs.
A pot size raise often gives you a very good price-performance ration with respect to the fold equity
it generates. Pot size raises generate significantly more fold equity than minraises.
Overbets usually generate even more fold equity than pot size bets, but there is a catch: the higher
you overbet, the worse your price-performance ratio.
The fold equity you generate does not increase linearly with the size of your bet. Strong, thinking
opponents may not be impressed by a very big bet; they will ask themselves if you would bet/raise the
same amount with a set, for example. If they interpret your (too) large bet as a sign of a drawing hand,
they will call with somewhat more marginal made hands.
As you can see, you have to select your bet size based on the opponent you are facing. You should also keep
in mind that minraises very rarely generate enough fold equity to semi-bluff with +EV.
How important is your bet sequence when semi-bluffing?

Semi-bluffs are usually only +EV when you generate enough fold equity with your bet/raise. You have to
select the right betting sequence to convince your opponent.
You will usually be the one going all-in, as this also allows you to generate the highest amount of fold equity
possible. But remember: You can't generate much fold equity when your opponent is already committed.
You can also use this against your opponent. If, for example, you have a nut flush draw on an otherwise dry
board, you can choose a betting sequence that induces your opponent to semi-bluff all-in with a weaker
flush draw.
This allows you to create very profitable situations in which your opponent is often behind on the flop. The
important thing to remember is who you are playing. This won't work on an opponent who never semi-bluffs
with a non-nut flush draw on the flop.
How much emphasis should you place on balancing your hand range?
Balancing is often very over-rated in micro limit and low limit games. There is no need to worry about your
own hand range when your opponents aren't paying any attention to it, either.
You can play your flush draws like flush draws and your sets like sets. Most of your opponents at these limits
won't be asking themselves what kinds of hands you might have in your range; they are only interested in
their own hand and seeing if they are ahead or not.
But the better your opponents get, the more you have to start thinking about balancing your range. You will
find yourself in situations in which you make a much larger bet than you normally would with a set to make
it look like a flush draw, and vice versa.
The same idea applies to your betting sequence. Balancing your betting sequence makes it more difficult for
your opponent to put you on a type of hand, which means he will make mistakes when playing against your
monsters / strong draws.
As we said, balancing is only an issue when you are playing against good, attentive opponents. Don't
overestimate this aspect too early. You are usually better off playing for maximum value in the micro limits
and low limits.
We will conclude with a few thoughts to keep in mind when estimating your implied odds:
Implied odds vary from draw to draw. A flush draw usually has lower implied odds than an OESD.
This is because possible straights don't look as dangerous as possible flushes. Three cards of the same suit
stand out more than three cards (especially when they are not in sequential order) to a straight.
Implied odds vary from opponent to opponent. You can expect an opponent with a very high WTSD
stat to pay you off more often when you complete your draw than an opponent with a low WTSD stat.
Implied odds vary from board to board. A straight draw on a single suited board looks much more
dangerous than a straight draw on a rainbow board. The implied odds sink accordingly.
Implied odds vary based on effective stack sizes. You can't win more than your opponent and you
yourself have.
Applying the theory to your game

You are out of position
Two problems arise when you are OOP:
It will be hard to extract value if you do hit, since it will usually be fairly obvious when you bet into
him upon completing. An attempt to check/raise is not very promising. A lot of NL players check behind after
a possible draw may have completed.
Seeing the next card can be very expensive. You will rarely be given a free card.
You can often avoid these two problems by choosing a betting sequence on the flop that leads to an all-in.
This is one way of dealing with your positional disadvantage and the shift in equity that will occur if you miss
on the turn.
Of course, your betting sequence should lead to you being the one who goes all-in, for reasons we have
already discussed. This is usually a very profitable way of playing very strong draws (12+ outs). You don't
need to generate much fold equity in the end for such a move to be profitable with so many outs.
You are OOP in a raised pot

YOU HAVE INITIATIVE
NL 2/4 Dollar
Villain1 (Button) ($400)
SB ($350)
BB ($420)
Hero ($600)
MP ($500)
Villain2 (CO) ($350)
Pre-flop: Hero is MP3 with K , Q
1 fold, Hero raises to $12, CO calls $12, Button calls $12, 2 folds.
Flop: ($42) T
Hero bets $35
,J
,3
(3 players)
You make a standard 3 BB pre-flop raise with KQs from MP3. Two opponents call. On the flop you have an
OESD + overcards. You decide to semi-bluff for the following reasons:
You showed strength before the flop. You will usually be able to take the pot down with a contibet
when both of your opponents missed.
If you do get called, you have 8 safe outs for the nuts.
Scenario 1:
Hero bets $35, Villain2 (CO) raises to $105, Villain1 (Button) calls $105, Hero calls $70.
In this scenario your opponent raises to $105. You call for the following reasons:
After you showed strength before the flop you got a raise and a cold call. At least one of your
opponents is sure to have a strong hand, which means you would generate very little fold equity by reraising/pushing.
You are getting good pot odds to call (1:4.1). This isn't enough to call with your OESD (8 outs
require app. 1:4.875 pot odds), but you can assume that your implied odds are very high, since at least one
of your opponents is sure to have a strong hand.
Your decision on the turn will be easy with such a large pot. If you miss, you have to check, since you will
only be able to generate low fold equity.
There are $357 in the pot on the turn. If an opponent bets (1/2 would be enough), you will be getting too
poor of odds to call and won't be able to count an any implied odds, since the stacks are so small in relation
to the pot. An easy fold. If you complete, you can check/raise or bet directly, depending on the opponent
you are facing.
Scenario 2:
Hero bets $35, Villain2 (CO) calls $35, Villain1 (Button) calls $35.
Turn: ($147) 4 (3 players)
Hero checks, Villain2 (CO) checks, Villain1 (Button) bets $110, Hero folds
In this scenario a blank shows up on the turn. You check after having gotten two calls on the flop. It is very
unlikely that both opponents have a weak made hand or a draw. Another semi-bluff would not generate
much fold equity.
Villain2 checks behind and Villain1 bets $110 with $147 in the pot. If Villain2 folds, you will be getting 1:2.3
pot odds. This is clearly not enough to call with your 8 outer (you need app. 1:4.875).
The implied odds are the decisive criterion when it comes to calling. If you assume you can get the rest of
his stack ($193) on the river if you complete, your implied odds would be 1:4.1. This isn't enough to justify
a call, so you fold your hand.
YOU DO NOT HAVE THE INITIATIVE
NL 2/4 Dollar
Button ($250)
SB ($200)
Hero ($240)
UTG ($180)
MP ($140)
Villain (CO) ($300)
Pre-flop: Hero is BB with T , A
2 folds, Villain (CO) raises to $12, 2 folds, Hero (BB) calls $8.
Flop: ($26) 6 , 9
,7
(2 players)
You have ATs in the Big Blind. You pick up a nut flush draw + gutshot (12 outs) on the flop. Your overcard
outs will even be good sometimes. This is a hand you would like to push all-in with on the flop.
You are clearly ahead against your opponent's range (steal raise from CO). When facing a normal opponent,
you should select a betting sequence that allows you to be the one who pushes all-in. If you are facing an
opponent who likes semi-bluffing the flop with weak draws, you can use the betting sequence from the
following scenario:
Scenario 1:
Hero checks, Villain bets $20, Hero raises to $60, Villain raises to $180
You can clearly see why this betting sequence would be sub-optimal against a normal opponent. You let him
be the one to make the decisive raise. If you push now, you won't be able to generate much fold equity,
since your opponent would be getting 1:2.9 pot odds.
Your opponent's raise allows you to limit his hand range to the following hands:
He has an overpair and wants to protect against draws.
He has two pair and wants to protect against draws.
He has a set and wants to protect against draws.
He has a completed straight.
He has a strong draw and is semi-bluffing.

How does your equity compare?
Against an overpair (other than AA): 53%
Against a straight: 40%
Against two pair: 40%
Against a set: 33%

You are obviously ahead against a draw. You have to either push or call in this situation due to your high
equity. You can also see: The more often your opponent has a draw, the higher your overall equity against
his entire hand range.
This would not be the best way to play against a normal, aggressive opponents, since it requires you to go
all-in with the fold equity being on your opponent's side. The next scenario offers an alternative betting
sequence for such a situation.
Scenario 2:
Hero bets $20, Villain raises to $64, Hero raises All-In [$228]
In this scenario your opponent raises to $64. This can mean a number of things:
He may have hit a strong made hand (two pair or better) and want to protect.
He may have a weak/medium strong made hand (TP, overpair) and want to protect.
He may have a draw as well and be semi-bluffing.
He may be bluffing.
Now for a few thoughts on equity. Your equity compares to his range as follows:
Against a set: 33%
Against an overpair (other than AA) or TP (with A kicker): 53%
Against a pair (without A kicker): 60%

You have app. 42% equity on average (this is pessimistic - bluffs and semi-bluffs are not yet included). You
would be getting 1:2.45 pot odds to call, for which you have more than enough equity. The only question is
whether or not a raise would be better.
If you just call, you could run into the following problems:
You are OOP. If you do hit, it is very unlikely that you will be able to get any more value out of your
opponent. A hit would also be pretty obvious to your opponent, since the board will either show three cards
of the same suit or 4 numbers in sequential order (with a T or 5 completing the straight). Your opponent will
often fold if you bet and take a free card if you check.
If you miss on the turn and check, your opponent will usually bet again. You will then have to fold,
since you won't be getting the right odds and will lose a fairly large pot.
Let's look at your other option: a raise. If you decide to raise, the first thing you have to do is decide how
much to raise. If, for example, you make a pot size raise and your opponent pushes all-in, you will have to
call due to the (correct) odds. For this reason, pushing all-in yourself is a better option.
As we said before, you should bet the amount that generates the highest amount of fold equity. An all-in
usually generates the greatest amount of fold equity in the lower limits where the opponents aren't thinking
too hard. Pushing in this situation is +EV very often.
This is due to your high equity and the large pot you are playing for. The following formula shows you how to
calculate the EV of a push.
We'll start with the abbreviations:
Pfold = The probability that your opponent will fold
Pot = Size of pot before you push all-in
Stack = The size of the smaller stack (yours or your opponent's)
Dead money = Money that was put in the pot by players who are no longer in the hand
Costs = The cost of your semi-bluff
Your total profit when pushing is calculated as follows:
Profit = Pfold * Pot + (Stack + Dead money + Stack - Costs) * Equity * (1 - Pfold)
Loss = Costs * (1-Equity) * (1 - Pfold)
Total profit = Profit - Loss
Example 1: Fold equity = 0%
Costs = $208
Pot = $110
Dead money = $1 (from the Small Blind)
Stack = $240
Equity = 0.4
Note: Your equity has changed slightly (from 42% to 40%). This is because your opponent will not call your
all-in push with all the hands in his range. He will call with a set, straight and, now and again, with two pair
or an overpair.
Total profit = $109.2 - $124.8 = - $15.6
Total profit = $109.4 - $93.6 = $15.8
Total profit = $109.6 - $62.4 = $47.2
Total profit = $110 - $0 = $110
The trend is easily seen: As your fold equity increases, so does your total profit. With just 25% fold equity
(your opponent must fold 1 in 4 times) you make a (long term) profit.
In conclusion, we can say that you almost always push profitably, assuming you have enough fold equity,
when you have a draw with 12 or more clean outs and there is already a fair amount of money in the pot.
To get a better feeling for when a push would be +EV, you can play around with the parameters in the
example. Try varying the following terms in the equation to see how it affects the outcome:
Costs
Pot
Fold equity
Dead money
Stack
Equity (based on # of outs)

Look for the points at which your total profit is highest/lowest. You can also plot various relations (for
example, fold equity in relation to equity) with a program of your choice.
OOP in an unraised pot

NL 2/4 Dollar
Button ($550)
SB ($300)
BB ($420)
Hero ($430)
Villain (MP) ($800)
CO ($290)
Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 8 , A
1 fold, Villain (MP) calls $4, 1 fold, Button calls $4, 1 fold, Hero checks.
Flop: ($14) 3 , 6
Hero bets $12
,4
(3 players)
In this example you have A8s in the Big Blind and pick up a nut flush draw (9 outs) on the flop. You decide
to bet a little less than the pot, since your opponents will rarely have a strong hand in an unraised pot (no
one showed any strength pre-flop), which means your bet should generate a lot of fold equity.
Scenario 1:
Hero bets $12, Villain (MP) calls $12, Button folds
In this scenario MP calls and the BU folds. MP's call can only mean one of the following:
He is slowplaying a strong made hand (set, straight) and is not worried about protecting.
He has a weak/mediocre hand (pair, overpair) and wants to wait and see what you do on the turn.
He also has a draw.
Turn: ($40) J
Hero bets $30
(2 players)
The turn card is not likely to have helped your opponent. An overcard to the board also weakens his weak
made hands, assuming he didn't pick up two pair.
You decide to semi-bluff again. If he has a weak/medium made hand or a draw, he will fold very often. If he
calls, you still have quite a few outs.
If your opponent does call, you should be cautious on the river. If you hit, bet 1/2 pot - pot; if you miss,
your line is simple: check/fold.
Scenario 2:
Hero bets $12, Villain (MP) raises to $35, Button folds
In this scenario MP raises to $35 and the BU folds. MP's raise can mean several things:
He hit a strong made hand (two pair or better) and wants to protect.
He has a weak/medium made hand (TP or overpair) and wants to protect.
He also has a draw and is semi-bluffing.

This is not a good spot to push all-in. Your effective stack is $414, and there are only $61 in the pot. Your
opponent will only call an overbet with hands that have you clearly beat in terms of equity.
Your equity against his range is as follows:
Against a set: 26%
Against an overpair: 45%
Against a pair (without A kicker): 52%

Now assume you will have app. 35% equity on average against your opponent's calling range. We can now
determine how high Pfold must be for your total profit to be positive:
Condition: Profit > Loss
Profit = Pfold * Pot + (Stack + Dead money + Stack - Costs) * Equity * (1 - P fold)
Loss = Costs * (1-Equity) * (1 - Pfold)
Pfold > [-Equity * (2 * Stack +Dead money) + Costs] / [-Equity * (2 * Stack +Dead money) + Costs + Pot ]
with A = -Equity * (2 * Stack +Dead money) + Costs
Pfold > A / (A + Pot)
With:
Pot = $61
Stack = $430
Dead money = $6 (SB + Button's limp)
Equity = 0.35
Costs = $414
The result is:
Pfold > 0.6451%
Example with Pfold = 70%
Total profit = $9.43
A push is +EV when your opponent folds 65% of the time or more. Whether or not you have this much fold
equity depends, of course, on your opponent. But even if you are absolutely certain that he will fold to a
push, one question remains: Would calling be even more profitable? The fact that you have to overbet the
flop to win a relatively small pot suggests that a direct push is not the ideal move in this situation.
A mathematical analysis of the EV of calling is, unfortunately, not very easy. This is due to the many
variables that come into play, including the difficulty in estimating your implied odds with two open streets,
the possibility of seeing a free card, etc. We can, however, start with an analytical look at a very simple
situation: You call with the intent of folding on the turn if you do not improve.
You are getting 1:2.65 pot odds to call. You can assume that you will usually be able to get another pot size
bet out of your opponent on a later street if you hit, since your opponent has shown so much strength. This
gives you 1:6.3 implied odds, which is, of course, more than enough to justify calling with a nut flush draw
(you need 1:4.22 to call with a 9 outer).
Your total profit is therefore:
Total profit = Profit - Loss
(of the 47 remaining cards, 9 are helpful, 38 are not)
Profit = 9/47 * $61 + 9/47 * $84 (estimated implied odds: PSB = $84) = $27.76
Loss = 38/47 * $23 =18.59
Total profit = $9.17
Of course, this is all very hypothetical. You can assume that you can generate 70% fold equity with a push.
An increase in fold equity results in an increase in profit when pushing.
But most of all, this example should give you an idea of how such formulas work. Changing a few small
parameters can have a big impact on your equity. In this example, the key parameter was your fold equity.
When it comes to calling, the implied odds are decisive.
Developing a feeling for the right decision in a given situation is extremely important, since you will not be
able to perform any of these calculations during live play.
You are in position

You have a number of advantages when you are in position:
You have a much better chance at taking down the pot with a semi-bluff.
You have better chances at being able to take a free card.
Your informational advantage gives you better chances at taking down the pot with a busted draw.
You can extract max. value from your opponent when you complete your draw.
You have every possibility when you are in position. A betting sequence that allows you to push all-in on the
flop is rarely the best option, since usually does not allow you to extract max. value. Keep in mind: You lose
your positional advantage at the moment you go all-in. At that point you can not make any more decisions;
you can no longer count on your post-flop edge and must depend entirely on your hand's performance.
You are IP in a raised pot

YOU HAVE THE INITIATIVE
NL 1/2 Dollar
Button ($400)
Villain (SB) ($600)
BB ($160)
Hero ($300)
MP ($480)
CO ($120)
Pre-flop: (5 players) Hero is UTG with J , A
Hero raises to $7, 2 folds, SB calls, BB folds.
Flop: 4 , 7 , 2 ($16, 2 players)
Villain (SB) bets $16, Hero raises to $56, SB calls $40.
Turn: 9 ($128, 2 players)
Villain (SB) bets $56, Hero calls $56
River: J ($240, 2 players)
Villain (SB) bets $180, Hero folds
A typical situation: You raised with suited broadway cards from early position. Only the SB calls. You pick up
a nut flush draw + overcards on the flop and the SB donks with a pot size bet. His bet can mean any of the
following:
He has a monster (set) and wants to get raised.
He has nothing and wants to steal the pot.
He has a middle pocket pair and wants to find out where he stands with his hand.
He has an overpair or TP (perhaps A7) and wants to protect against draws.
He also has a draw and is semi-bluffing.

Scenario 1:
No reads.
In this case, a semi-bluff raise is a very good option. Your fold equity will be very high for the following
reasons:
You are the PFA and in early position. Your pre-flop action demonstrated a lot of strength.
Your opponent is not likely to have hit the board. There aren't any broadway cards to be seen and
no draws are possible, either (another flush draw is unlikely since you have two diamonds yourself).
Your opponent will usually fold every hand other than a monster or an overpair. You also have good
fold equity even against an overpair (other than QQ-AA).
Other reasons for semi-bluff raising include the possibility of taking a free card on the turn and the
opportunity to build up the pot. You may even be able to stack your opponent upon completing.
Your opponent calls your raise in our example hand and a blank card shows up on the turn. Your opponent
donks again, but this time his bet is fairly small (less than 1/2 pot). This can mean any of the following:
He has a monster and wants to try to induce a raise once again (and is not worried about
protecting).
He also has a draw and is trying to buy a free card.
He has an overpair or TP and is trying to keep the pot small (and is not worried about protecting).
Reasons for not semi-bluffing again are:
You would have to invest at least $200 to raise and would practically be all-in.
The probability that he has a monster or an overpair is much more likely after he called on the flop,
which results in a big decrease in fold equity.
You are getting very good odds to call (1:3.3). You can also count on even better implied odds,
since, as we just said, the probability that your opponent has a good hand is now very high.
You call in our example hand. An interesting card shows up on the river. You hit top pair and your opponent
bets 2/3 pot. After reviewing the previous action (opponent calls pre-flop, donks flop, calls flop raise, donks
turn, large bet on river) you can be pretty sure that he already had a very strong hand on the flop (possibly
a set). The only thing left to do is to fold your hand.
Scenario 2:
Your opponent is very passive.
Unlike in Scenario 1, semi-bluffing in this spot would be wrong. You signaled strength before the flop and
now have a passive opponent betting into you. This is a clear sign of a strong hand.
You are getting 1:2 pot odds to call on the flop. Your implied odds, however, are very high, since your
opponent has signaled that he has a strong hand. With so little fold equity and such high implied odds, this
is an easy decision: call.
YOU DO NOT HAVE INITIATIVE
NL 1/2 Dollar
Button ($150)
Villain (SB) ($350)
BB ($420)
UTG ($200)
MP ($500)
Hero (CO) ($200)
Pre-flop: Hero is CO with J , T . SB posts a blind of $1.

2 folds, Hero raises to $8, Button calls $8, Villain (SB) raises to $20, 1 fold, Hero calls $12, Button calls $12.
Flop: ($62) 9 , 4 , Q (3 players)
Villain (SB) bets $25, Hero ...?
You raise first in with JTs from the CO. You get one cold call and a re-raise, which you call. You pick up an
OESD on the flop; your opponent bets a little under 1/2 pot. This can have the following reasons:
He missed the flop and is trying to buy the pot.
He hit a monster (perhaps top set) and wants to get raised (and is not worried about protection).
He has an overpair and is trying to extract value, once again without worrying about protection.
The last two are the most likely given the pre-flop action, assuming you don't have a read on your opponent
(pre-flop squeezer).
Your opponent re-raised after a raise and a cold call pre-flop. This usually indicates a strong hand. You
should usually refrain from semi-bluffing (without a good read) for the following reasons:
You can generate little fold equity; your opponent has signaled that he has a strong hand.
You are getting good odds to call (1:3.48) and have good implied odds, since your opponent is likely
to have a strong hand.
You risk getting re-raised on a draw heavy board if you do semi-bluff.

Scenario 1:
Villain (SB) bets $25, Hero raises to $80
This example should show why you should not raise when the risk of getting re-raised is high. This is often
the case when your opponent has signaled that he has a strong hand that he probably won't be giving up.
If your opponent has a strong hand, he will rarely slowplay on such a draw heavy board, but rather 3-bet
directly. And considering the stacks sizes, this 3-bet is a gateway to an all-in.
If your opponent pushes all-in, you will be getting 1:3.22 pot odds to call, which you would have to do based
on equity (30%, assuming you will see two more community cards, which requires just 1:2.33 pot odds).
Calling is technically +EV, but only because you more or less committed yourself with your raise.
Of course, you would prefer to see your opponent just call on such a draw heavy board. This is not very
likely, but it would allow you to see the turn and then decide what to do.
Scenario 2:
Villain (SB) bets $25, Hero calls $25, Button folds.
Villain (SB) bets $80, Hero folds.
In this scenario you are getting good pot odds on the flop and call to see the turn. A blank card shows up
and your opponent bets app. 2/3 pot. You have to fold for two reasons:
Your draw did not complete. Your opponent is signaling a strong hand, which means your fold equity
is very low and a semi-bluff is not likely to take down the pot. Your opponent will not be folding an overpair
or better, especially since you would be giving him 1:4.6 pot odds to call an all-in.
You are only getting 1:2.4 pot odds to call. If you do call, you will only have $76 left in your stack,
so even if you hit, you can't win any more than another $76. This gives you just 1:3.35 implied odds; you
need 1:4.875. Calling would clearly be a mistake.
We haven't even talked about discounting yet. With an OESD on a suited board you only have 6 clean outs.
You could complete and still lose the hand, which has a negative impact on your implied odds.
You are IP in an unraised pot

NL 1/2 Dollar
Button ($150)
SB ($350)
Villain2 (BB) ($420)
Villain1 (UTG) ($150)
MP ($500)
Hero (CO) ($200)
Pre-flop: Hero is CO with 5 , 6 . SB posts a blind of $1.
Villain1 (UTG) calls $2, 1 fold, Hero calls $2, 2 folds, Villain2 (BB) checks.
Flop: ($7) J
,4
,7
(3 players)
You limp in from the CO and pick up a straight flush draw on the flop. You can usually count on 15 clean
outs, though it is possible that someone has a better flush draw.
Your equity compares as follows:
Against a set: 42%
Against a pair: 55%
Against a random hand: 66%

You have more than 50% equity on average; you usually won't be able to fold this hand on the flop.
Scenario 1:
Villain2 (BB) bets $5, Villain1 (UTG) raises to $15, Hero calls $15
In this scenario you are confronted with a bet and a raise. You should call instead of raising for the following
reasons:
Two opponents are showing strength in an unraised pot. Hardly anyone risks their stack for an
unraised pot if they don't have a good hand.
A direct push would probably only isolate you against better hands (perhaps two pair or a set). You
will usually take down a small pot or be the underdog in a big one.
Raising leaves the door open for an opponent to re-raise all-in. You would then have to call with so
many outs.
If you call and Villain2 re-raises, you might get the chance to push. You would obviously prefer to
see your opponent(s) fold than call, since you would then get all the money already in the pot, but even if
you do get called, 50% of the pot is yours based on equity.
You have position, which allows you to extract max. value if you complete your draw. If you miss,
you can try to see the next card at a cheap price, or possibly even take a free card.
Scenario 2:
Villain2 (BB) checks, Villain1 (UTG) checks, Hero bets $6
In this scenario both opponents check. You can semi-bluff for the following reasons:
No one is likely to have hit in an unraised pot. If this is the case, the pot will be yours.
You want to build up the pot, since your equity is probably over 50%.
A bigger pot on the turn means you can make a larger value bet when you hit without giving your
opponents too poor of pot odds to call.
In this scenario Villain1 calls and Villain2 fold:
Villain2 (BB) checks, Villain1 (UTG) checks, Hero bets $6, Villain2 (BB) folds, Villain1 (UTG) calls $6.
Villain1 (BB) checks, Hero bets $15
Villain2 checks again on the turn. You decide to semi-bluff again. We'll start with a look at your equity on the
turn:
Against a set: 30%
Against a pair: between 32% and 55%

Your equity falls to app. 37% when your opponent hits. Your fold equity, however, is fairly high. Your
opponent has been playing as if he had a weak hand or a draw. He's checked to you twice, both on the flop
and on the turn. Betting also allows you to build up the pot (and to make a larger value bet when you hit on
the river).
This hand could play out as follows:

Villain1 (BB) checks, Hero bets $15, Villain1 (BB) calls $15.
River: 8 ($49, 2 players)
Villain1 (BB) checks, Hero bets $30
You get called on the turn and complete your straight flush on the river. The pot is large enough to allow a
$30 value bet.
Conclusion
The scenarios we looked at are, of course, just a handful of possible situations. There is no need to tell a
Gold member that you have to play according to the situation at hand and the opponent you are facing in NL
Hold'em. Fold equity and implied odds, two factors that have a major impact on how you play, can't just be
put into a chart.
After reading this article you should have gained a basic understanding of how to play strong draws. The
examples showed you what to do, now it's time for you to play around with the calculator and examine past
hands (for example from your Elephant data).
You know which parameters have the greatest influence on your decision. If you still aren't sure if you're
analyzing your hands correctly, look to the Same Hands Forum and strategy discussions for help. You're sure
to find it.
Video: How to Play Draws

.
You can also watch a video on playing with draws. Just

click on the image to the left to open the video in a new
window.
Be sure to read the article, as well. Your bankroll will
thank your for it.
How do you play weak draws?

Introduction
In this article
Implied Odds can vary greatly from situation to situation
How to play weak draws in multiway situations
How to play weak draws in heads-up situations
Even if you missed the flop with your hole cards, you will often find yourself in a situation in which you still
have some chances of making a winning hand. Sometimes you hold a gutshot, a backdoor flush draw or any
other weak draw and face a decision how to proceed with these draws.
On low limits it's certainly no mistake to follow a weak style with these draws and wait for stronger hands to
stack your opponents.
This article is intended to show you how you can play your weak draws even on smaller stakes with a very
positive expected value. You will face opponents you can play real poker with and make use of your edge
postflop with weak draws aswell.
You will see that this piece of content is all about playing weak draws yourself, not about how weak draws
might influence your play while holding a made hand.
What is a weak draw?

First off we have to make sure we are all on the same page regarding which situations can be considered a
weak draw. In total, we count five different types of weak draws which can differ a lot in how you should
play them.
Weak open-ended straight draws
This draw is very likely to be overestimated by weaker players. You are holding the so-called "idiot end" of a
straight draw and you always need to be aware that only four outs (four sevens) will provide you with the
"nuts".
If a Q hits on the turn you would still have a straight, but K9 and AK have your hand dominated and such
bad situations are likely to happen to you in such a spot.
Holding the same draw on a two-suited flop is even more dangerous as you lose one out for your nut
straight. Ever so often your draw will come through, but you never know if it's profitable for you to play for a
big pot when your opponents can hold either a better straight or even a flush.
Weak flush draws
You are holding a flush draw, but face the problem that it's neither the nut flush draw nor the 2nd or 3rd nut
flush draw. There is a good chance that your opponent is holding a better flush draw or has a redraw for the
river if a third heart hits already on the turn.
More players in the hand mean a higher likelihood your draw is dominated and you might already be drawing
dead with your hand. So even if you have a decent amount of outs you should play carefully to make sure
you don't lose big pots while only winning small ones in situations like these.
Gutshots
A gutshot like the one seen above offers you four (or three on a two-suited board) outs to the nuts which is
certainly an advantage. It is also well concealed so if a ten hits on the turn, many players might overlook the
possibility of a straight on a 5 Q 8 T board. This means sweet payoff from weaker made hands if you
can complete your draw.
Non-Nutdraws with one hole card
These draws are very weak as they are both obvious and often dominated by players holding stronger
draws. If your draw hits on the turn and you start making moves, your hand is often turned "face up" and
you will have a hard time getting value from weaker hands as no reasonable player with a pair or set will
invest any more chips with such a dangerous board.
If you get action from your opponents even though your draw arrived, you might find yourself in an
uncomfortable freeroll situation. In most cases you either split the pot or at least one villain has hit a better
draw than you did. Being the sole winner of the pot is extremely unlikely.
Weak one-card-flush draws won't put you in the freeroll spots, but the threat of your flush being beaten by a
higher one remains. Keep in mind that only very few players overplay their single pair on a four-suitedboard or try bluffing while actually being drawing dead.
Backdoor draws
On the one hand, backdoor draws have the great advantage of being really hard to read, but on the other
hand you need two perfect cards to complete your draw, making it very unlikely to happen.
That's why backdoor draws by themselves are not really playable in most situations against regular
opponents without any particular history on them, but this changes if you combine more than one backdoor
draw or add a made hand to your draw.
Holding a backdoor draw should not be underestimated. You can frequently go for a different line than usual
as your draw provides you with a small but significant equity advantage and tons of implied odds if you get
lucky and hit the draw.
Be aware of the different types of backdoor draws as they differ greatly from each other and therefore
require individual lines for each type, not just a general line for every weak draw.
In the following paragraphs you will be introduced to the differences between the various draws and which
situations you need to play your draws with a positive expected value.
Implied and reverse implied odds while playing weak

draws
Depending on your draw and the associated board texture your implied odds can change a lot. Sometimes
your weak draw will provide you with great implied odds whereas other draws might lead to more reverse
implied odds. The following list will show you in which direction the different draws lean.
Yet another quick overview:
One card draws: You use just one of your hole cards and in most cases you face heavy reverse
implied odds. This can be explained by the fact that the completed draws are more than obvious and a
skilled opponent would never play for a large pot if he can't beat the obvious draw. Another issue is the
relative weakness of your hand. You use just one of your hole cards which means that your hand can easily
be dominated by villain's hand, but you might still have trouble letting the hand go.
Generally speaking, weak flush draws and the so-called "idiot OESDs" have reverse implied odds
too, but less so than the one card draws. There will still be cases in which you can stack a set or twopair
with your completed draw, but you are always in danger of being dominated by a stronger draw. You should
still be careful with a draw like this.
Gutshots and backdoor draws have the best implied odds, given that you use both of your hole
cards and it's no one card draw. If a gutshot, backdoor straight draw or backdoor flush draw is completed,
your opponent will have a hard time reading you and realizing you are holding such a strong hand. In most
cases he will assume you didn't play such a weak draw, see no reason behind your betting sequence and pay
you off. As you can see, the weakest of draws can lead to the biggest pots for you and this is what makes
these weak draws so powerful. With a completed backdoor draw or gutshot you are flying under the radar
and have a good chance that your opponent is simply overlooking the possibility of you holding such a
hand.
As you can see, implied odds of the various weak draws can be different, but keep in mind that implied odds
are not only depending on your own hand.
Aside from your own hand you have to take the board texture and your actual opponent into the equation.
For example, a gutshot has less implied odds on a 3-suited board. Keep that in mind and don't just play your
own hand.
EXAMPLE
$0.25/0.50 No-Limit Hold'em (6 handed)
Hero $65.36
BB $9.35
Preflop: Hero is SB with Q , 8
2 folds, CO calls, 1 fold, Hero calls, BB raises to $1.50, 1 fold, Hero calls.
Flop: ($3.50) 3 , T , 9
(2 players)
Hero checks, BB bets $2.50, Hero??
You need one out of four jacks in the deck to complete your straight and you can assume one more out for a
heavily discounted overcard. This leads to corresponding odds of 8,4:1, but your pot odds for this call are
just 2,4:1, which means you would normally have to fold here.
Maybe the implied odds can convince you that calling is a winning play here: Your optimistic implied odds
amount to 4,54:1, considering villain's remaining stack of $5.35. That's not enough for a call. If you also
consider the fact that you have to play out of position, this hand is an easy fold for you.
Weak draws in multiway pots

If you play a weak draw in a multiway pot, you will quickly realize that it is not a place for fancy moves. You
will most likely be lacking the proper odds or the foldequity to play your weak draw differently from regular
play. Only in very rare cases you will be able to assume sufficient yet correct implied odds for a move with a
gutshot.
If this isn't the case you should play your weak draw straightforward in a multiway pot. Leave out semibluffs and don't call the flop bet to make a move on the turn.
Try minimizing your potential losses and don't get caught up in too big pots with a weak draw.
EXAMPLE
$0.50/$1.00 No-Limit Hold'em (6 handed)
BB $110
CO $50
Hero $130
SB $80
Preflop: Hero is BU with J , T
2 folds, CO calls, Hero raises to $4, SB calls, BB calls, CO calls.
Flop: ($16) 3 , K , 9
(4 players)
SB bets $8, BB calls, CO calls, Hero??
You have four outs for the nut straight which means you need direct odds of 10,75:1 to make a profitable
call. The pot offers odds of 5:1. If a queen hits the board on the turn you would have to extract another $50
of value from your opponents and the pot would have to grow to $90 to justify a call here.
All in all, the conditions are favorable in this case as you can easily assume a much larger pot in the end.
You are in position, the involved stacks are pretty deep, you raised preflop and three opponents are
interested in playing the flop even though they are out of position.
In addition to that you hold a pretty deceptive hand. The hypothetical board reads 3K9Q, leading to a fairly
low connectivity. The term connectivity describes how close the cards on the board are connected based on
their sheer value. If the board shows a high connectivity, your opponent can easily realize the straight
possibilities, but in this case only K and Q are next to each other. The other players in the hand might
overlook a possible straight or just consider it very unlikely.
If you look at the board from the perspective of which hands your opponents might hold, there are plenty of
scenarios possible. There could be a set in play (especially 33 is a typical limp/call hand) or someone holding
two pairs. Now consider the fact that there are three players remaining in the hand and given the action so
far, it's very likely that the $90 necessary for your call will be in the eventual pot. Even a single player with a
weak hand like a pair of kings would probably be enough.
Implied odds can be calculated as follows: The chance of a queen hitting the board on the turn amounts to
8,5% and if you combine turn and river it's 16,4%. It is very likely that this nut straight will be the best
hand at the showdown and at least one opponent is willing to invest further money into the pot even if you
complete your draw. If the turn doesn't bring in the desired queen, you can still fold or call according to your
pot odds or receive a freecard if the action is checked around.
Implied pot odds for a call at the flop: (16+24+50)/8 : 1 = 11,25:1
As you can tell, even these odds are better than the necessary 10,75:1 for four outs and you haven't even
included a possible freecard on the turn yet.
EV(Call) = P(Queen on the turn) * EV(Pot with Implied Odds) - P(No queen on the turn)*EV(Investment) =
(0,085*90) - (0,915*8) = 0,33
The call would be correct in this case.
This example may seem made up and a situation like this is certainly not the standard case, but it should
explain how implied odds are calculated and what you have to consider in spots like these.
It is also obvious that such exact calculaions can never be performed at the table. Therefore you need to
develop a gut feeling if a call or a fold is the more profitable play in a given situation. It's also not
guaranteed that your calculation will always be correct because of the different unknowns that come into
play that can only be measured empirically.
EXAMPLE
$0.50/1.00 No-Limit Hold'em (6 handed)
Hero ($65.36)
BB ($55.35)
UTG ($60.85)
Preflop: Hero is SB with 9 , 9
UTG raises to $4, 3 folds, Hero calls $3.50, BB calls $3.
Flop: ($12) Q , 2
, 4 (3 players)
Hero checks, BB bets $5, UTG calls, Hero??
In this example your pot odds are 4,4:1. Given that you have nine real outs for a flush and two for a set,
yout flop-to-turn odds would be 4,3:1. This is close, but enough for a call.
But there are quite a few aspects you should not ignore. The main argument against a call here is certainly
the possibility of a better heart card with one of your opponents. Another reason for a fold would be your
position. You are in the small blind and going to the showdown will most likely be an expensive move. Your
effective pot odds are worse than they seemed at first sight and you are playing with reversed implied
odds.
The board texture makes it really difficult for you to extract value from an inferior yet strong hand. You also
have to take into account that there is a good possibility that your outs for a flush are non-existent. A call
would clearly be a mistake.
This simple example should show you why folding on the flop can be the best play even if you hold a
flushdraw and you get a relatively cheap price on the turn card. The danger of being dominated and the very
slim likelihood of a player with an inferior hand investing substantial money into the pot make up two good
reasons for an easy fold.
You will come across a weak flush draw mostly in situations in which you hold a pocket pair, as you should
tend to play only suited cards or at least offsuited cards of high value. That's why weak flush draws are
rarely successful without any other options to improve to a stronger hand. However, these options might
seem better than they really are because you still face a high risk of flushes.
Playing weak draws heads-up

In a heads-up pot you have the chance to play your weak draws unconventionally for a couple of reasons,
but you should always keep in mind that this largely depends on the opponent you are playing.
If you are playing against a loose-passive player ("calling station") you will have a hard time creating the
necessary fold equity to make agressive play profitable. These players rarely think about your betting
sequence and the hand range you are representing, so you should apply the following moves with utmost
care.
Rocks, TAGs and semi-LAGs on the other hand have to be approached differently. These players are capable
of folding weak or intermediate made hands and also spend more time on thinking about your hand range
and what you might have.
You will also see many of these players sitting at multiple tables at the same time and therefore your moves
with weak draws will go unnoticed. These players also tend to give up their hands if they experience
resistance.
Weak draws and the float

Let's imagine a heads-up situation. You are in position and your opponent has been the aggressor preflop. In
a situation like this floating your opponent on the flop can be a great play while holding a weak draw.
Quite a few players place a continuation bet on any flop and don't start evaluating their actual strength
before the turn. Those players tend to get very weak-passive on the turn when their flop bet was called and
a float is the best way to exploit such a line.
EXAMPLE
$1/$2 No-Limit Hold'em (6 handed)
CO $200
Hero $200
Preflop: Hero is BU with 7 , 6
2 folds, CO raises to $7, Hero calls, 2 folds.
Flop: ($17) K , 8 , 4
CO bets $13, Hero calls.
(2 players)
Turn: ($33) 2 (or 2 ) (2 players)

CO checks, Hero bets $21
The flop brought you a gutshot and you decide to float your opponent. The board texture is certainly helpful
in this case. The cards on the flop have close to zero connectivity and the board looks very dry from your
opponent's point of view as only gutshot draws are possible.
Thus it's safe to assume he'd place a continuation bet with any two cards he might have raised preflop. If he
actually has a hand you can assume great implied odds for your gutshot and you are also holding a
backdoor flush draw which is a little plus.
Watch out for the high card on the turn. Good TAGs and LAGs will fire a second barrel when another high
card hits on the turn. However, king high on the flop is an excellent card as your opponent will place a bluff
bet only if he sees an ace on the turn which would mean you have to fold.
A blank on the turn means in most cases that your opponent will check, passing the action on to you. You
don't have to care if your backdoor flush draw now became a flush draw. Of course, more outs for having an
actual winning hand are always good, but you will always float here anyway as it's the best chance to win
the pot after your opponent has shown weakness on the turn.
You can see that a float with a weak draw is a nice move here, but that's not the whole story. You should
polarize your hand range versus regulars while floating, giving them still a hard time playing against your
whole hand range.
If you are holding a medium made hand with showdown value in this situation (in this example it would
maybe be a hand like 99 or 98), a float isn't the perfect play for you. Your action on the turn will scare away
weaker hands and only stronger hands will call you. It would be a better play to look for pot control and
seek a cheap showdown.
A good yet vulnerable made hand is not the right hand for a float either. You should balance your bluff
raising range at the flop, raise for value and see that you have your hand properly protected.
Floating is also only good with a weak draw, a strong draw should be played differently. You leave out the
opportunity of a free card and potentially induce a checkraise on the turn. This checkraise would put you in a
really tough spot. Your hand might be beaten already and you will have to give up your significant share of
pot equity.
Sometimes the pot odds will even force you to go all-in as an underdog in such a spot as the pot odds
offered are too favorable. With these difficulties in mind you should consider semi-bluffing at the flop and
subsequently take a freecard on the turn.
You manage to use your weak draws to balance your strong made hands, which you also would have called
on the flop, and you hope that the opponent continues his bluff or improves to a second best hand.
If you float with weak draws, you cannot only balance your lines but also generate a lot of fold equity, which
increases your chances of avoiding a showdown. If your float gets called, you will often have large implied
odds if your draw arrives on the river.
Weak draws and a delayed bluff raise

Now let's assume you are still playing heads-up, but now you are in position with the initative. You have two
options at the flop: Continuation bet or a delayed bluff raise.
EXAMPLE
$1/$2 No-Limit Hold'em (6 handed)
BB $200
Hero $200
Preflop: Hero is BU with 7 , 5
3 folds, Hero raises to $7, SB folds, BB calls.
Flop: ($15) A , 4 , 4
BB checks, Hero checks.
(2 players)
Turn: ($15) 3 (2 players)

BB bets $12, Hero raises to $40, BB calls $28.
River: ($95) 2
(2 players)
BB checks, Hero bets $82
This line seems rather unconventional at first sight, but if you take a closer look you will see the advantages
and thoughts behind it.
Preflop you place a standard openraise from the button and the big blind calls. The texture of the board on
the flop would normally invite you to do a continuation bet, but this kind of play will not scare any four, ace
or pocket pair away. If your opponent calls, you will find yourself in a tough spot on the turn. Fire a second
barrel or give the hand up? In the best case you have reads on the villain to make a good decision, but this
is obviously not always the case.
Leave out the continuation bet on the flop and you will see that many players try to pick up the pot with a
bluff bet on the turn or place a protection bet for their pocket pair. Now go ahead and raise this bet and your
opponent will have difficulties going on with his pocket pair. This bluff raise forces better hands to fold and
you win information about villain's hand.
You could certainly pull off such a bluff bet with a hand such as J T or anything similar, but you have
close to no chance of winning a potential showdown. Holding a weak draw (backdoor straight draw and
backdoor flush draw) on the other hand has enormous advantages in such a spot as it leaves the possibility
of winning the showdown open.
The chances for this weak draw to complete are fairly slim obviously, but they have huge expected value in
the long run. If you hit your draw on the river, your opponent is likely to go into tilt mode after he has been
sucked out on. This can have great impact on the meta game between you and your opponent. Even
regulars on smaller stakes might not be familiar with such a move and might consider you completely
clueless, and your play is leading them to bad hero calls when you have an actual made hand from the start.
If you succeed with this you can exploit your image in later hands with thin value bets and have an
advantage over your opponent. Sometimes this bluff bet on the river can have a negative expected value
once in a while, but keep the implications for later hands against this player in mind as they might exceed
the negative value that came out of this one hand.
If you decide to implement the line check behind Flop, bluffraise turn into your play you have to be aware of
the following:
Use this line as a value line, too. In the example shown above you could also check AK or a 4
behind on the flop and make a value raise on the turn
Don't be scared money and be clear that you might have to place an (expensive) bluff bet on the
river for maximum foldequity. You also don't want to show your opponent your bluff just like that
Don't use this line against players that are not likely to fold their hands and make sure that your
table image is solid enough for that. Calling stations that will call with any ace are no targets for such a
move
Weak draws and the continuation bet

If you are the preflop aggressor and play in a heads-up pot, you should nearly always make a continuation
bet. The line illustrated above is an exception and is only an option in extremely good spots.
If you were the preflop aggressor, a continuation bet will already create sufficient foldequity in most cases.
Sometimes opponents call, but if you are holding a weak draw this also means that you will have great
implied odds since your continuation bet provides very little information to your opponent.
Playing out of position is different - you shouldn't go for a passive line too often by giving up your initiative
with a check on the flop. Your options for taking a free card or controlling the pot size are very limited out of
position, so keep the pressure up.
All in all, a contination bet remains the best standard play even with weak draws. If you start playing weak
draws out of position more passively, you also have to start to implement more check/bluff raise moves at
the flop into your play, but this requires more care and reads on your opponent.
EXAMPLE
0.5/1 No-Limit Hold'em (5 handed)
Preflop: Hero is BB with T
,T
3 folds, SB raises to $2.00, Hero raises to $6.00, SB calls.
Flop: ($12.00) K , 9
, 5 (2 players)
SB checks, Hero bets $10, SB calls.
Turn: ($32.00) 7 (2 players)

SB checks, Hero ??
This is a tough situation for you on the turn as it's obvious that your opponent might have a better flushdraw
or a better made hand.
Advantages of a bet (2nd Barrel):
High foldequity due to the dangerous board
More information about villain's hand than with a check
If he raises, you don't have to make a difficult decision on the river

Advantages of checking behind:
You receive a free card
You don't have to play a big pot with a marginal hand (more pot control)
Prevent being checkraised
Thanks to the smaller pot and your position your river decision will be easier
If he calls the second barrel, you don't extract much more information than with a check
You can see there are good arguments for both options, but the arguments are different in their value. On
the one hand you have foldequity as a very strong argument whereas the other arguments for a bet are
rather weak.
However, the point is that strong hands will rarely fold in this situation. It is mainly very weak hands, against
which you are ahead, that will fold. Considering the further progress of the hand, it becomes obvious that
the free card will benefit rather than harm you. Also, with your relatively marginal hand you should try to
keep the pot small because pot control is more important than fold equity here. A check behind is the best
choice in this situation.
River: ($32.00) J (2 players)
SB bets $20, Hero??
The flushdraw hits on the river and any hand with an ace or queen of spades has your tens beat. Now you
are in position and you have to pay $20 to see a showdown.
Let's look at the development of this hand. The 3-suited board came up on the turn and you might find clues
for your hand in how your opponent played the 2-suited board first, then the 3-suited board and eventually
the 4-card-flush.
To get a clearer picture of his opponents, a good player will take all these aspects into account when he is on
a weak flush draw just as he should generally be able to evaluate a given hand in retrospect in order to
make better decisions.
The SB is very passive until the jack of spades hits on the river. Maybe he was holding a draw, too. Maybe
he is now playing the king with a block bet or bluffs since he interpreted your check on the turn as a
weakness. Only hands containing the ace or queen of spades are ahead. There are two dangerous cards that
your opponent might have, but without any reads you can take the risk against unknown and call the bet.
This example should show you what's important while playing a weak flush draw. Think ahead and make up
you mind what to do if the flush hits or the situation goes in this or that direction. Don't forget that unlike
with a gutshot you cannot be sure to win even if the draw hits.
Summary
This article has shown you that there are spots in which more creative play can be put into place. Keep in
mind that you have to either have the necessary implied odds or create enough foldequity to play +EV.
Calculating implied odds is a vital part of this concept and should be done with extra care.
To sum it up, there are three things you should take away from this article:
In mulitway pots you should stick to a weak-passive approach to minimize your potential losses
Depending on your implied odds and the board texture you can play your weak draws heads up as a
float or delayed bluff raise
If you are playing a heads-up pot out of position, a continuation bet is the way to go.
Evaluation and Exploitation of Stats

Introduction
In this article
Which dangers lurk when dealing with stats
How to correctly interpret the stats
Thich stats are useful and which are less so
Stats have become an important part of playing poker. By analysing a number of past hands, one is able to
form a rough profile of his/her opponent, and use this to make better decisions.
When doing this, however, you need to consider various factors. Here you will get an overview of important
stats that you should use when making decisions in the future.
In this article we will talk about the following points:
General
Problems
Which stats play a decisive role
Irrelevant stats
Normal values
Sample size
Further topics will be discussed at a later time.
General
A focus on stats harbours certain risks, this is something you should always be aware of.
The basic problem: Poker is a game with missing or at least incomplete information. This of course is one of
the things that makes it so interesting, yet one would still like to break through this barrier and get as much
information as possible without the need for a real check.
Ultimately, a mixture of misinterpretations, vague conclusions or insufficient sample size are the main
reasons for a wrong adaptions of stats.
If these mistakes start occurring with regularity, you begin to rely on false assumptions and run the risk of
putting less thought into the matter. The opponent is quickly identified as a fish, as extremely aggressive, or
as a specific 3-better, even though the boundary conditions do not permit such a conclusion.
Still, many players are inclined to regard this information gap as closed and to refrain from any further
assessments. This, however, should preferably not happen.
Even if you are able to avoid these kind of mistakes, always keep in mind that stats can change, that your
opponent is more than capable of adapting, and that nothing can replace your personal impressions, your
reads.
Problems
If the sample size is sufficient, you could theoretically assume that the stats are significant. But what does
that mean exactly?
You are sitting at a table and in fact have a few thousand hands from your opponent. That should be a
number with which to infer helpful information.
What you should however not forget:
The stats come from different days, possibly even weeks.
Villains can have good and bad days.
Villains can change up their style.
Villain may operate with table selection and play primarily against loose-passive opponents.
Villain may play differently against you.
There are a lot of factors that need to be taken into account.

A simple example for this is the 3-bet-stat.
The 3-bet-stat is in itself an obscure stat. To really be able to get a rough range, one needs to look at the
position stat. What does it mean, for instance, if your opponent 7% 3-bets? He 3-bets maybe 5% at CO,
10% at BU and very little in the blinds.
Or conversely: In position he tends to call more, but in the small and big blinds he 3-bets a lot. That
changes so much that it makes it essential for you to look at the position stat.
Another factor also plays a role: Your opponent 3-bets a value Y in position X, yet this is related to all tables
and all opponents. It does not mean that the player in a given situation [u]against you[/u] will 3-bet the
same amount.
You also take your opponent into consideration when making moves (whom do you 3-bet and why?), your
adversary will do the same.
If you take into account all these aspects, it will become clear that such stats are to be treated with caution,
and that you cannot justify expensive moves purely with them in the long run.
What you should definitely take with you: Stats should always be critically scrutinised!
Under no circumstances should you trust them blindly, so keep you eyes open to look out for any possible
misinformation.
Which Stats Play a Decisive Role?

While you can now take a look at some of the most important stats, there will also be mention of "normal"
values, i.e. values that are within the normal range. We will also be taking a look at sample size.
"Normal" values are only very broadly defined, simply because such values vary dynamically with different
variants (e.g. 6max => Fullring), different limits and different opponents. That is also why such a thing as
good and bad values don't necessarily exist.
In the future we want to look at how to exploit these stats, and how you can use them to your advantage.
That is why only stats that can be used in such a way will be relevant.
VPIP / PFR
These two are the most common and most important stats. The VPIP (how often a player enters into a pot)
and the PFR (how often he raises pre-flop) give you a first rough picture of your adversary.
Players are already categorised using only these stats, that you should know. You can find a short summary
of the classic opponent types here.
The advantage of these stats: The sample size does not need to be especially large.
After just a few hands an impression can be formed that you can make use of. Whoever shows 80/0 stats
after 20 hands is no TAG. The likelihood of this being the case is already extremely small. This does not
mean that 20 hands is enough to decide this, but 100 hands are already a very good indicator.
At least the opponent type will fit in the most cases, i.e. the ratio of VPIP to PFR. This is not set in stone, but
you will seldom get much more information with so few hands.
Standard values naturally do not exist, they have a high dispertion and vary from 8/5 Nit up to 90/80
Maniac. The information you can draw from that therefore provides an important impression on the overall
picture of your opponent.
3-Bet-Stat
The 3-bet-stat is generally considered to be very important. The reason is simple: You open-raise a lot
(depending on position), but there are not many hands you would be comfortable facing a 3-bet with.
Such an increase makes a large pot, takes away many of your options, and forces you to either fold, 4-bet,
or to call and thereby play a 3-bet pot without initiative. And if you don't happen to be holding the nuts,
these aren't the best situations you can imagine for yourself.
It is therefore important for you to be aware of how often your opponent 3-bets.
In the section "Problems" you have already read a lot on this subject. To recognise the rough range on a 3bet-stat, it is important to look at the position stat and - as also previously mentioned - consider whether
villain will 3-bet just as much (or as little) in this situation against you. That is anything but easy.
Just the fact of having to use primary position values makes it clear that the sample size needs to be fairly
large. The most HUDs don't just show you the percentage, but also the number of observed cases. This is a
good way of checking the significance of the values when interpreting stats.
Even after 1000 hands these values are based on what is actually a very small sample size. Of course, after
20-30 spots you will be able to recognise a rough tendency, from 50 onwards you have a value you can use,
even though it can naturally still deviate from the theoretical ideal. Nevertheless, 10 from 50 holds a greater
significance than 2 from 10.
You can consider these issues of sample size each time for yourself: With regards to VPIP, for example, each
hand counts, as the villain always has the option of entering the pot. But how often will he be able to use a
3-bet in a cutoff? The observed spots will obviously be less (this effect will be greater post-flop).
What values can you expect? A general hard value range can be considered as QQ+/AK, which means a
range of 2,56%.
It is therefore clear: The higher the 3-bet value, the higher the proportion of bluffs. Naturally, in many other
situations, even weaker hands can be considered value-3-bets, however anyone who has 10% 3-bets over a
long period of time will not have a higher value range against you. At some point it just does not exist
anymore. He will therefore have to bluff a large proportion of his extra range, giving you the possibility to
respond (in the form of calls or 4-bets).
With most TAGs, the 3-bet values lie between 6% and 9%, the position values of course deviate more
strongly.
Fold-to-3-Bet-Stat
This value should be very interesting for you. In the previous section you will have realised that 3-bets
against you are always problem spots, where one is desperate for information with which to be able to
defend one's self.
As such, it makes sense that the most of your opponents will not like such spots. The ft3-b-value shows you
how often your opponent folds to a 3-bet.
In this case it is not possible to look at position stats, since it would be theoretically important to know from
where villain raised, and from where he has been 3-betted. Apart from the fact that such values are not
offered, it should be clear by now that the sample size of such spots would be so small that the value would
have no significance whatsoever.
Accordingly, the sample size for this does not need to be as high as a position-3-bet-stat for instance, since
all spots in which villain received a 3-bet after a raise are taken into account.
After a few hundred hands you will already have enough spots together to be able to see an early tendency.
The values vary between 40% and 80%. If someone only folds 40%, they can be considered a loose player.
He calls a lot and runs into a lot of difficult situations post-flop. A majority of players are not in command of
such spots (of course there are exceptions).
Whoever folds 80% is making a big mistake. In the next section mathematical background knowledge will be
explained. You can try considering how much villain may fold long-term for his bluff-3-bet not to become
+EV in the long run. 80% is in any case too much.
There are no standards in No-Limit Hold em, but you will most often see a value of around 55-65%.
4-Bet-Stat / 4-Bet-Range
A large stumbling block is the following: Do you consider the 4-bet-stat or the 4-bet-range? What are the
differences?
While values like VPIP, PFR or the 3-bet-stat additionally give you the range, in the case of a 4-bet the
following conditions are required: Villain raises, someone 3-bets.
The resulting value therefore does not denote the actual range.
The correlation is as follows:
4-bet-range = 4-bet-stat * PFR
A player with a PFR of 20% and a 4-bet-stat of 10% therefore has a 4-bet-range of 2%.
Using the 4-bet-stat you can thereby directly work out what your opponent will roughly 4-bet. You know that
QQ+/AK is in total 2,56%, a player with a 4-bet-range of 2% will therefore seldom 4-bet-bluff.
4-bet-spots are however also extremely rare, so you will need a few hundred hands in order to recognise
early tendencies. Values between 1% and 4% will be most common, whereby a player with a 1-4% bet
range can also write what he has in the chat.
Fold-to-4-Bet-Stat
This stat shows you how often a 4-bet of yours will achieve fold equity against his 3-bet-range. The values
vary greatly, depending on the 3-bet behaviour of your opponent.
Here a small digression: Later articles will deal concretely with misinterpretations, and a value such as this is
particularly susceptible to this danger.
To be able to judge this stat it is important to also look at your opponent's 3-bet-range. If the ft4-bet-stat is
0%, the player will look like a very loose player against whom you can easily push for value. But what if this
opponent only 3-bets 2%? Whoever only 3-bets the nuts will not fold on 4-bets. This has nothing to do with
going loose broke.
This just show you that it is always important to see these contexts or to view this stat critically.
Attempt to Steal
This value should be looked at with caution. What does steal mean? Theoretically, every raise is a steal, as
it is an attack on the blinds. One does also not differentiate (it can logically not be differentiated) between
whether villain is really stealing or if he is raising for value.
This value can be misleading, generally it denotes a first-in raise from CO, BU or SB.
The values vary between 30-50%, however you should definitely make use of the position stats (how much
does villain raise first-in from each position). The condensation of all 3 stats can be confusing and lead to
false range estimations (since the BU and SB-first-ins, for example, can vary greatly).
Fold SB/BB to Steal
These values denote folds in the respective position of the above defined steal.
This is now interesting for you, because you can see how often on average the blinds simply fold. The
sample size does not need to be especially large, since the blinds need to be defended each orbit.
The values vary between 70-90%, however here you also need to check the boundary conditions each time.
If the BB folds to 80% of steals, he folds against raises from the cutoff upwards. That does not automatically
mean that he folds that same amount when you steal from the small blind (and that villain could then play
heads-up in position against you).
If you steal from the button, you naturally have to take into account that both players would have to fold,
should you be making a pure steal attempt.
Continuation Bet Flop

The continuation bet stat tells you how often the pre-flop aggressor is likely to make the bet that is entitled
to him on his own initiative.
Here it should be considered that the value can hardly reach 100%. All spots are taken into
consideration,even multi-way spots in which a pure bluff-c-bet does not make any sense. Should villain play
in position and donk his opponent, in other words not recognising the initiative and betting himself, the
villain does not even have the option of making a continuation bet.
The values usually lie between 55 and 70%, everything below that is relatively low, and as such, valueintensive. Everything over 70% should be analysed carefully, villain's bluff proportion will be much higher, he
will have to compensate this somehow (for instance through high 2nd-barrel-values on the turn and further
post-flop bluffs).
Continuation Bet Turn / River

In order to accurately recognise such patterns, you should take these values equally into account. Important
here: The continuation bet values on the turn and river refer only to the spots in which villain made his c-bet
on the previous streets.
A c-bet-turn-value of 50% therefore means that villain bets a 2nd barrel in 50% of all spots in which he also
bet on the flop. The c-bet-river-value shows how often villain barrels his way through, in other words bets
what is the 3rd barrel on the river.
You can imagine that these spots do not, however, occur all that often. The c-bet-river value on its own
therefore has no real significance, it must be combined with the amount of hands villain plays in general,
and how often he bets through on the flop and on the turn.
A river-value of 100% is of course very strong if it comes from a 13/10er who doesn't often conti-bet and
rarely uses a 2nd barrel.
%Fold Flop/Turn/River to C-Bet

These values show you, how your opponent responds to c-bets on average.
You can remember for future reference that a 2/3-potsize bet requires a fold equity of 40%. If your
opponent folds much more, the bet will become in itself +EV (with regards to bluffs).
If you see, for instance, that your opponent folds 35% of c-bets on the flop but 50% on the turn, the whole
move (continuation bet + 2nd barrel) becomes +EV. Moves like this should be your aim. Future articles will
explore relationships like this more specifically.
There are likewise values which indicate how frequently villain reacts generally to flop/turn/river bets. Here
you need to consider that all spots will be taken into account, also unraised pots or situations in which flop
and turn have been checked. These values should therefore always be treated with caution, since they have
quite a low informative value.
Aggression Factor
Definition Aggression Factor:
(% raise + % bet) / (% call)
The AF refers only to the ratio of bets (and/or raises) to calls. It does not, however, take into account how
often villain folds (or checks). The calculation only tells you that someone betted or raised on eight, and
called on two of 10 spots on the flop, resulting in an AF of 4.
The value has always been used and offers many insights. Generally, the AF should go down from street to
street, and usually appears in the following ranges:
Flop-AF: ~3,5 - 5
Turn-AF: ~2,5 - 4
River-AF: ~1,5 - 3
You should pay special attention to small deviations. The phenomenon of the River-AF being higher than the
Turn-AF is of particular interest.
Reasons for this are primarily slow plays on the turn and/or a lack of value bets. In such cases,river bets are
made more for value.
Alternatively, villain uses the river to bluff if he senses weakness in a villain.
This case is a good example for misinterpretation, because a high River-AF does not automatically mean that
the villain bluffs too much. Here you need to pay attention to why the River-AF is higher,and with what
hands villain is most likely to play stats alone cannot help you in such a matter.
Aggression Frequency
Definition Aggression Frequency:
(times bet + times raised) / (times bet + times raised + times checked + times called + times folded)
This value now also takes passive actions into account.
f one bets or raises (aggressive) five times and calls twice, checks once and folds twice in ten spots, the
resulting aggression frequency would be 50%.
Went to Showdown
The Went to Showdown shows how often villain reached the showdown.
The value usually lies between ~22-28%. For every hundred observed hands, with a VPIP of approx. 20%,
this would be five hands that go to showdown. This example shows you that even after a few hundred hands
this value should still be treated with caution and can vary greatly.
One also has to establish a connection to the VPIP/PFR. Theoretically, a tighter player should have a higher
WTS. He plays a smaller and therefore stronger post-flop range, that should want to reach showdown more
frequently. Someone who plays very loose should, on the other hand, often try to win an unimproved pot,
since his equity is not sufficient to reach (to win) many showdowns in the long run.
Therefore, a loose player with a high WTS would seem to indicate a bad player, i.e. someone who calls too
much.
On the other hand, a tight player with a low WTS would indicate that you are able to eliminate many of the
villain's made hands by the river, as long as they don't happen to be the nuts.
Irrelevant Stats
Along with the stats that have already been mentioned, there are also numerous others, however most of
them should not be overvalued.
The crux of the matter is that many stats don't really have any significance. You have already gotten to
know about the basic problems (e.g. sample size), but several values can't even be reasonably interpreted.
If you take a look at a stat like check-raise river, you will see that all problems come together. For one, this
spot occurs so rarely that it can hardly be used. You also do not know if the villain has made this move for
value or to bluff. Furthermore, a comparison to the alternatives (c/c river, c/f river, bet river) is not made.
The main problem, however, is that this stat cannot take into account what happened before. What was the
pre-flop action? What happened on the flop or turn?
The c-bet-river-stat or the ft-c-bet-river-stat at least make clear what previously happened. But a checkraise-stat on its own is taken completely isolated and doesn't take into account initiative or anything else.
It is therefore important that you concentrate on the most important aspects, look at how to interpret that
important stats, and use them to your advantage. For now you should just ignore the other stats.
Summary
You have now received a first insight into the problem of stats and should now know what problems lurk
when interpreting them. The most important aspect here is that each value should be critically scrutinised at
all times.
In the near future you will learn what exactly to do with these stats. When is a steal, a 3-bet, a 4-bet
worthwhile? With what raise size can you achieve the required fold equity? How you can get a general
picture of your opponent and combine important stats? Which adaptations can you bring into your own
game?
Tankroll bankroll management: from 150 to 1,000
The Tankroll-BRM is an aggressive bankroll management system that's geared towards players returning
from a break from poker or players who want to leave behind the micro stakes quickly. You should only
consider using the Tank-BRM when the following points apply to you:
You're not a beginner anymore

The Tankroll-BRM requires a good winrate at the micro stakes. Most beginners cant produce that at the start
of their career.
You're willing to work on your game

When following the Tankroll-BRM you could be playing at NL50 and even NL100 after a few thousand hands.
The opponents at those limits are not unbeatable, but still you should be working on your game and make
sure that you're playing with a positive EV against them.
Moving up and down doesn't have a negative influence on your mental game
It is important that youre seeing the Tankroll-BRM as a game. You will begin with 150 and you will stop
with 1,000. The constant ups and downs in between should be considered a part of the game.
If it came to the worst, you could spare the initial 150

The Tankroll-BRM bets on quick success. This is accompanied by a lower protection of investment. With the
classic bankroll management system you will reach 1,000 as a winning player in 99% of the cases. The
Tankroll-BRMs rate of success is only 76%. Consequently, you will lose the initial 150 in 24% of the cases.
The Tankroll-BRM is an aggressive bankroll management system. It is not

suited for beginners and requires strong nerves and the willingness to work
on your game.
Tankroll-BRM: Aggressive Shots and Defence Line
On average, you're turning 150 into 1,000 within less than 100,000 hands when following the Tank-BRM.
With a classic bankroll management you would need roughly 260,000 hands. Two concepts are
fundamentals of the Tank-BRM:
A strong, last defence line
In order to protect your investment you have to avoid losing all of it. Therefore, you should play NL5 with a
20-stack-BRM. If you chose an aggressive 5-stack-BRM, the probability of reaching 1,000 would only be
16%. With the defence line of 20 stacks at NL5 it's 76%!
Aggressive bankroll management from NL10 onwards
With more than 100 in your account, you risk getting to higher limits swiftly, thereby increasing your
chance to reach 1,000 more quickly.
Always make sure that you're not falling below the minimum bankroll for a limit by more than one stack.
The BRM tab suggests exactly one limit that you should play on for any possible bankroll balance. However,
a bit of pragmatism is necessary as well. Therefore, stick to the following rules:
1.
You've fallen below the minimum bankroll of your limit by less than 30BB:
In this case, you should simply continue playing at your current limit.
2.
Your bankroll is 30 to 50BB below the minimum bankroll:

You should continue playing until you would have to pay the next Big Blind, leaving the table before
that and moving down a limit.
3.
You've fallen below the minimum bankroll of your limit by more than 50BB:
You should move down a limit immediately without waiting for the next Big Blind.
4.
You've exceeded the maximum bankroll for your limit:

There's no hurry. Wait for the next big blind, and then move up a limit. If your current table is
particularly profitable, stay at it until it is not anymore.
Examples:
Your bankroll is at 630, so you're playing at NL100. After your Aces didnt hold up against AK on the river,
youve lost 106, though, meaning with now 524 you are more than 50BB below the minimum bankroll for
NL100. Therefore, you switch to sit-out right away and move down to NL50.
Your bankroll is at 540 and youre playing at NL50. After winning another 70 your bankroll has increased
to 610. Youre waiting for the next big blind in order to move up to NL100.
Four tips when putting the Tankroll-BRM into practice

Tip 1: Get a first deposit bonus
Rake shouldn't be underestimated. With a first deposit bonus you're usually profiting from roughly 30%
rakeback right from the start. Our recommendations:
Tip 2: Play Zoom or Speed Poker at two tables max

Since you will often have to move up and down the limits, playing Zoom and Speed Poker is
recommendable. However, from NL50 onwards you should switch to normal tables and table selection.
Besides ensuring that there are enough weak players at your table, you should also make sure that you are
playing against Nits instead of LAGs when selecting a table.
Tip 3 (optional): Use rakeback conservatively

When you feel mentally stable enough after regular progress, you can start using rakeback and bonuses
conservatively. This means that you should not add rakeback and bonuses to your bankroll; instead you
should deduct them from your Take Profit.
For instance, let's assume you're bankroll is at 850, composed in this way:
150 starting bankroll
385 ($500) bonus

200 rakeback
115 in winnings at the current table
In this particular case, you should consider your bankroll to be at 265. Consequently, you should be playing
NL25 with it. If you win another 150, you will have reached 1,000 and the challenge will be complete.
However, you can also simply include any rakeback and bonuses in your bankroll and play on NL100 with
your 850. From a mathematical point of view, that's even better.
Tip 4 (optional): Run a blog in our forum

When running a blog, you will profit from the following advantages:
By documenting your progress and career you will increase both your motivation and endurance.
You will work on your game automatically by discussing tricky spots with other members.
During a downswing you will profit from psychological support and encouragement.
With time passing by you will get to know a lot of cool people and even build some friendships.
Explore the blog section of our forum

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POKER STRATEGY

What is the Big Stack Strategy?

Watch the Video

The importance of bankroll management

The tight-aggressive play style

What is Bankroll Management?

The PokerStrategy.com Bankroll Management

less than $100

less than $250

less than $500

less than $625

less than $1,250

less than $2,500

The tight-aggressive strategy

1. YOU PLAY TIGHT POKER

How to Play Before the Flop

Watch the video

How to determine your position at the table

What hands to play pre-flop

The Starting Hands Chart

What is your position at the table?

Starting Hands Chart: Which Hands Should You Play?

Your starting hand

The actions of your opponents before you

Actions Before You

All players folded

Late Pos. Blinds

All players folded

All players folded

66, 55, 44,

Actions Before You

Late Pos. Blinds

High Aces (s stands for suited, o stands for offsuit)

All players folded

Middle Aces (s stands for suited, o stands for offsuit)

All players folded

Low Suited Aces (s stands for suited)

All players folded

A6s, A5s, A4s,

Actions Before You

Late Pos. Blinds

Suited Face Cards (s stands for suited)

All players folded

Offsuit Face Cards (o stands for offsuit)

All players folded

All players folded

Actions Before You

Late Pos. Blinds

All other hands not considered above

All players folded

The First Column: Your Hand

A9s stands for ace nine of the same suit

A4s stands for ace four of the same suit

QJs stands for queen jack of the same suit

QTs stands for queen ten of the same suit

KQo stands for king queen of different suits

QTo stands for queen ten of different suits

JTo stands for jack ten of different suits

COLUMNS 3-6: WHAT TO DO DEPENDING ON YOUR POSITION

WHAT DOES 'CALL 20' MEAN?

How much should you raise?

3x the size of the original raise

What if someone raises after you?

NL 2 $0.01/$0.02 (big blind = $0.02)