i\fc&

-A,

-*

AY
*

ORIENTAL MEMOIRS:
SELECTED AND ABRIDGED FROM

A SERIES OF FAMILIAR LETTERS

WRITTEN DURING

SEVENTEEN YEARS RESIDENCE IN INDIA

INCLUDING

OBSERVATIONS
ON

PARTS OF AFRICA

AND SOUTH AMERICA,

A NARRATIVE OF OCCURRENCES IN FOUR INDIA VOYAGES.

Illustrated by

By

Engravings from Original Drawings.

JAMES FORBES,

F.R.S. &c.

IN FOUR VOLUMES.

VOL.

III.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY

T.

BENSLEV, BOLT COURT.

PUBLISHED BY WHITE, COCHRANE, AND

FLEET-STREET.
1813.

CO.

HORACE'S HEAD,

on a.
lz'3

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

Chandode. solemn groves. sanctity of Chandode. brahmins. temples.

District of
altars.

XXVIII.

Jaggernaut. .account of the ceremonies there by Dr. Buchanan, .funeral

ceremony of the Hindoos. beautiful address

.

contala.

four grand divisions of

sealing of the worshippers.

Hindoo

to the elements.

castes.

extract from Sa-

temple and village worship.

mark on the forehead very generally adopted. orna-

ments and paintings in the temples. Menu's Hindoo laws. preliminary

.

course.

brahmin ical belief

beautiul letter from a

in the unity of

Hindoo rajah

to

Aurungzebe. doctrine of the metempsy.

chosis, .doctrines of the Grecian philosophers,

patriarchs.

gion.
..

character of a real Yogee.

sublimity admitted.

happy death of a

of view.
effects,

its

mysteries in their

Hindoo darkness and

beyond them

superstition.,

the subject pursued

modern philosophy among the Europeans

.an interesting conversion.

and Archbishop

reli-

on that subject. idea of the Indian natives respecting

Wake

prelate to the missionaries.

in different points

in India.

its

different

further reflections, .character of an excellent

minister, Swartz, and other Indian missionaries.

First

religion of the

truth and beauty of divine revelation far

doctrines and practice.

effects of

compared with the

pure brahminism.

christian contrasted by

further considerations
Christianity in

dis-

God. polytheism of the Hindoos.,

interest taken

Hindoos

for the conversion of the

cause and effects of irreligion.

beautiful extract from the writings of Bishop

Home.

by George the
letter

from the

a sovereign remedy.

conclusion of the solemn

5

subject

CHAPTER
Conquest of Ahmedabad by General

XXIX.

Goddard. .journey

from

Dhuboy

thither,

through Baroche, Ahmood, Jamboseer, and Cambay. .Guzerat coss. .Ahmood

vol.

m.

CONTENTS.

vi

purgunna. town of Ahmood. . swelling of the Indian

rivers.

storm in Guzerat. mode of crossing the Guzerat

ful

rivers.

bosecr

purgunna.

crops, .general

plentiful

occasion.

that

of robbers.

town of Jamboseer.

Gurry.

brahminic kites and vultures. Pariar dogs.

.

donyx mountains,
described.

ancient

research.

resemblance

at

Sacred

Isles

singular ceremonies of

travelling.,

Cambay. Cambat.

near

of the West, a very curious

festivals.

that of the

Hindoo worship. strange mis.

ment
the

Hindoo

covery of lions.

its

Persian emigrants at

at that period.

Guzerat.

rajah proved to

Sejutra.

valuable oxen

beautiful

in

mausoleums

causes of
.

its

decline.

Dr. Robertson's

wild beasts in Guzerat.

the reign of Akber.

in

dis-

that occasion
.

beauty of

ancient splendor of

Betwah. affectionate veneration

wonderful structure.

division of the empire

horses in India.

at

the reign

in

Guzerat villages and cultivation.

Hindostan. .description of the Taje .Mahal

in building that

commerce of Cambay

company of sportsmen on

Guzerat.

at

be erroneous.

perilous adventure of a

Soubah of Guzerat

value.

its

former opulence.

departure from Cambay.

the antelopes.

in

elegant entertain-

picture of a

arrival

of lustre, and ocean of lustre, two transcendant diamonds in Persia.

of Queen Elizabeth.

Vizier.

Tucht-Taoos, the peacock throne.

noble character of Akber.

Cam-

Cambay. magnificent jewels.

house.

at the Vizier's

hill

by the Nabob and

polite reception

tribe

the Coolies, .their country

antiquity

ruinous state of his country and capital.

Cambay, and

humanity on

British

conception of a transaction at Dhuboy. .cruel oppressions by the nabob of

bay.

Jam-

Hindostan.

in

manner of

Hindoo and English

between the

Hooli, and Vastu Puja.

erroneous geography of Pliny., sar

remains of

of Feroze Shah.

pillar

village,

topes.

Hindoo houses. .Coolies, a

Myhi. further account of

.river

Cambay purgunna.

pillar.

provinces.

Hindoo

of a

poetical description

mango

of famine

effects

the Bengal

particulars of a dreadful famine in

account of a dread-

for

the dead

Agra, .estimate of the expenses

short comparison with Solomon's temple at

Jerusalem

51

CHAPTER XXX.
Description of Ahmed-abad.

when

built

by Sultan Ahmed.

and great decay, compared with Nineveh and

Mogul

palaces and Mahratta hovels.

families, .charities

in

its

former magnitude

Babylon, .contrast between the

melancholy situation of the reduced Mogul

Hindostan. .caravansaries, .those on the royal roads de-

.. ...

CONTENTS.
scribed.

Jumma-musjed

tomb of
heat.

A limed.

sultan

Ahmed-abad,

at

mosques

trade at that time.

in

India.

Bliaug.

manufactures.

artists.

mausoleums and mosque

rose.

Mahomedan

ottar of roses.

nurses.

news

writers.

Kokarea

English factories.,

nurses

palace and gardens at Shah-

Zenana, .arrangement

in

Akber's haram..

Nurse's well, a most costly structure.

Persian and Mosrul beauties.

Sercaze.

at
.

city of dust., banian

and

park and pleasure-grounds.

Damascus
of

public huramums.

uncommon palmyra. Dutch burying-ground. Dutch

.

extent.

Khaun. ivory mosque. dreadful

palaces and gardens.

gold formerly coined there.

uncommon grandeur and

its

of Snjaatt

public wells and aqueducts.

hospital.

vii

Narwallee, the ancient capital of Guzerat.

sepulchres

conquered by

Afghans, .indolent and peaceable character of the Hindoos, .became an easy

conquest to these northern invaders.

monarchs. .the

celestial bride, a

immense plunder, .splendid

taste of their

gorgeous temple erected by sultan

Mahmood..

Afghans conquered by the Mogul Tartars, .character of Timur-Lung.

.his dread-

ful cruelty in the

massacre at Delhi, .his posterity to the beginning of the eigh-

teenth century.

declining state of the empire, and usurpation of the nabobs.

the cause of

Ahmed-abad and Cambay becoming independent. Alimed-abad

.

conquered by the Mahrattas. nabob

.

power.

flies

to

Cambay, and pays

taken by the English under General Goddard.

Ayeen Akbery. Akber.

.

beautiful preface to the Institutes of Akber. .succes-

Abul Fazel. .his sublime and

sors to that emperor.

splendid taste of the

Mogul

princes.

the Dewane-khass, a

magnificent hall in the palace of Shah Allum, described.

Mogul

tribute to that

reflections on

117

history.

CHAPTER
Departure from Ahmedabad.
large and strong town.

visit

Cuttek.

palace in

XXXI.

the mosques and tombs at Peerana.

Dolcah, a

Cusbattees on military tenure, .beauty of the country.,

depredations of the Coolies.

gardens.

the

Cambay, when disgraced by

Buvsora.

correspondence

the nabob.

return to

Cambay. .summer palaces and

with

Mirza

Zummaun,

vizier of

Siddees and attendants on the nabob.

slavery in India, .portrait of an Asiatic sovereign, .cruelty of zemindars and officers of government.

purchase of slaves, .nabob's entertainment at Dil Gusha.

gardens, .temple of fountains.

ing-girls.

songs.

poetry.

luxury of an oriental evening, .pavilions. danc-

Persian stanzas and distichs.

Persian feast.

professed

CONTENTS.

viii

story-tellers at

Cambay.

Voltaire's philosophy.

by modern customs

illustrations of Scripture

tendency of

fatal

India.

in

infidelity

David

India..

in

Hume,

.dis-

crimination in the oriental entertainments as to food and presents of apparel., a

in scripture

passage

..further

explained from Homer, and

illustrations.

modern manners

familiarity of the inferior

subjection of Asiatic females.

Mahometans

departure from

Cambay.

reflections

CHAPTER
Improvement

them

behaviour
.

to terms.

intelligent brah-

on the journey

iGl

and revenue of the Dhuboy purgunnas

character of those banditti, .endeavours

insolence and cruelty of the Gracias. .their shameful

commanding

instructions of the British

ture of the town, and

feast

great similarity of ancient

Gate of Diamonds, .expedition against

at the

XXXII.

in the population, cultivation

..irruptions of the Gracias and Bheels.

to bring

at great feasts.,

and modern despotism, .princely banquet from a Persian story.

.

Hindostan

and pavilions. palanquins. . hackaree.

tents

of Ahasuerus contrasted with modern entertainments.

mins.

in

officer.

their capital of

Mandwa

success of the entcrprize.

cap-

the haram.. their treatment as hostages at

the ladies in

Dhuboy. coirespondence with Kessoor Khan, chief of Vazeria. account of

.

Bhauts, demanded as security for the good behaviour of the Gracias.

in

similarity

the language and conduct of those people, with several in ancient times.

treaties

leased,

entered into with the Giacia chieftains on Bhaut security

and peace restored.

praises of heroes,

hostages re-

and sometimes of females. account of the Charuns, a similar

.

the Grecian and

Roman

doo seminaries. schools

annals.

the Jews, Greeks, and

one of them applied

astrology and georaancy taught in the Hin-

by Akber. .wise

Homans. consulted

by Zeida.

to

Hindostan compared with Balaam, and those

in

instituted

among

Hindoo legend of the Bhauts. bards proclaim the

tube, .astrologers and soothsayers

in

the

chiefly

anecdote of

women

this

of the east.

by lovers

India.,

in

and an

interesting female

English gentleman, after such an application, .warm imagination and lofty

of he Persian poets.
I

stanzas from the Yusef Zelakha of Jami.

ments and love-potions.

in the courts of

Adawlet

passage from Horace.

at

spells

known

flights

virtues of oint-

and charms complained of

Barothe and Dhuboy. virtues of the Hinna. poisons

and enchantments. . on the death of Germanicus

213

..

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

ix

XXXIII.

Excursion with the new chief of Baroche, and a party, through the English purgunnas in Guzerat.

of enormous

the cold season delightful for travelling.

character of Lullabhy.

..behaviour on the death of his daughter.

forests

method of

killing the antelopes.

anecdote of a young Hindoo mother.

..depredation of the Mahratta armies.

Chandode.

Hindoo

superstition.

beauty and

King of

Strelitz to the

nue.

landed property

in India.

nies,

haram.

.grand

water

mountain of Powaghur.

in jars.

of

few wants

in

revisit

brahmins.,

recluse

that

and reve-

in agriculture

Brodera.

the capital of

debauched character of Indian

sepulchres.

funeral ceremo-

Rebekah and Ehezer. great men

.

provisions at Brodera.

travel

with

cheapness and abundance in

India, .superior beauty of the Brodera purgunna..

character of Futty Sihng.Jiis

his daughter's
.

of Guzerat.

lotophagi. .valuable produce of the district, .villages, .oppressions of go-

vernment.

inscriptions.

stone bridge.

Bowa-peer

pass of

Mahomedan women. mosques and

wells.

other districts.
lotos.

the

Dhuboy. improvement of

at

the Guicwars described, .interior of the durbar.

princes.

fertility

suggested improvements

travelling.

from the Princess Charlotte of Mecklenburgh

letter

Prussia.

Ranghur.

of the palanquin-bearers

life

country near Zinore.

answered from Craufurd's Sketches. arrival

purgunna. miseries of war.

extraor-

his family

in

manner of

pleasant

questions respecting

weddings

description of Corall.

Vanjarrahs, their commercial journeys and comforts.

.

Cubbeer-Burr. .bats

.cure of their venomous bite by Lullabhy.

size, .serpents,

dinary anecdote on that subject.

Baubul

wedding. presents. anecdote

.

magnificent wedding of Vazeer Ally,

Hyder

Ally,

and

Mahratta Peshvva

letter

titles,

.horn of victory.

invitation to

durbar respecting Khiluts

at Sindia's

character of Asuf-ud-Dowlah.

Wood.

from that prince to Colonel

George the Third. presents on

to

letter

anecdote
from the

that occasion insignificant

compared with the munificence of ancient sovereigns, .system of oppression.

Akber. .happy consequences
British

government

wedding.

in

to

India.

be expected from the power and influence of the

music of the Hindoos, .ceremonies at a Hindoo

cremation of widows, .flattery of Futty Sihng's heralds, .chamber of

mirrors. .Tippoo Sultaun's sleeping apartment.

.

noble

traits

in

Neber's character

.compared with Alfred, .weighing of the royal person, .coins and

. .

zodiac rupees.

state of the

delightful

Chandalahs.

encampment near Brodera.

compared with the brahmins,

seals

cold in India.
.

injustice

of Akber

wretched

of the system

CONTENTS.

Gaum

and general character of the Hindoos.. Meah

ter,

.death and character of Hiroo Nand.

Rajah. .his amiable charac-

sacrifice of his

widow. her superior

.

endowments. compared with celebrated English females. . Mahomedan women

.

..extraordinary character of Avyar, a Hindoo female philosopher and celebrated

author, .extracts from her writings.
.

potters.

Hindoo

deities.

Moods.

serpents, .serpent-eaters, .locusts, .distillers

average of annual rain

CHAPTER

XXXIV.

Cession of Baroehe, Dhuboy, and the English purgunnahs

and Mahdajee Sindia,

rattas

mily

the

in

family.

Mahratta

at the

state.

peace

245

1783..

in

Guzerat, to the Mali-

in

of Mahdajee Sindia's fa-

rise

illegitimacy of that chieftain.

assassination of Jeajee.

elevation

of Mahdajee Sindia by

chosen mediator of the treaty of peace between the English

1783.. the city and

district of

Baroehe presented

nor.

and

their behaviour on giving

opposed

these facts

of oriental gratitude.

clay

to

its

assigned for their conduct.

Dhu-

sorrow of the inha-

England.
.

instances

noble behaviour of

nymphea

in

a temple erected

lotos.

events of the

have been delivered up to the Mahratta pundit.,

to

in

the Mahratta gover-

in

England, and placed

dissuasion of the brahmins from

M ah rattas

and

being restored to the Mahrattas..

beauty and peculiarity of the

on which Dhuboy was

his non-arrival.

to

from different natives of India.

letters

Hindoo images brought

for their reception.

up

former ill-founded prejudices

to

the inhabitants of Dhuboy on the report of

present of

it

Mahdarow.

for this service.

to hitn

boy and Zinore ordered to be surrendered to the Mahrattas.

bitants of Baroehe,

dissensions in the

my

leaving

Dhuboy. reasons
.

intended ambuscade of the Gracias.

threats and

the

mantra, and divinations communicated by the brahmins. . paper presented by the

elders of

Dhuboy,

misery at

its

stating the happiness of the English government,

being withdrawn, .reasons for inserting

..divination of the Gracia soothsayers.

from Dhuboy.
Gracias on

my

further cruelty

lines written

escort.

on the occasion.

and plunder.

consequence, .departure

in

proceed

murder of the cavalry

to

Baroehe.

officer, servant,

funeral processions.

their

.translation of the address

it.

arrangements

and

my

attack of the

and attendants.,

narrow escape from the

ambuscade, .conduct of the relations of the murdered people, .general behaviour

of the

Mahomedan women on such

succeeded in

my

capture, .various

occasions.

intentions of the Gracias, had they

modes of poisoning

their prisoners.

effects

of

..

CONTENTS.
deleterious drugs on the

body and the mind, .poisons among the ancients, .reco-

very of part of iny effects. .sheep-sl< in death, .anecdote in consequence.

by

thirst,

.another scheme of the Graeias frustrated.

oriental sorceries.

death

remarks

on a particular Providence

347

CHAPTER

XXXV.

Striking the British colours, and final departure from Baroche.

and military servants on that establishment.

of the English

and

in that city, .evils

attending

sole administration of the English.

late

many

changes

exiled civilians from

dreadful storm.

..oriental villas

summer

it.

provision

ters there.

at

Laurentinum.

eastern

chief beauties in Indian

at Surat.

..

at

it.

tions there.

Belgram, the Pieiian spring of India.

reflections

in

its

her aphorisms

reputed effects

thenticity of that fact.

lar instances.

Bombay.

bay.

Pulparra.

Hindoo

liberal

previously

known

in

its

and

scientific character

supersti-

infanticide

blessed effects.

the districts of Benares; au-

general statement of medical practice in India.

zodiac rupees, by

whom

of Serfojee,

particu-

rajah of Tanjore.

coined and for what purpose.

great alteration in the style of

life

and manners
.

increase of private expense and the public expenditure.

and punishments among the natives

traits in the

Indian character.

letter

in

arrival

at

at that presidency.

from Baroche. increase of population

resolves of the emigrants

.

revisit

necessity of

from that prince, .cure of the ophthalmia, .practice of medicine amongthe

Mahrattas.

final

introduction of vaccination in India.

encouraged by the brahmins.

letter

consequence.

immolation of Hindoo widows never practised at Bombay.

prevented in Guzerat.

sacred

literary charac-

general female portrait in Asiatic cities, .oriental state insignia.

preserving

their

literature, .character of Avyar, a cele-

brated female philosopher, .morality and piety of her writings.

and maxims. font

effects of a

chamber.,

Elisha's

of custard apples.

variety

.pavilions in oriental gardens

.Moguls and Persians

Gibbon's remark on

1783. .hard situa-

affairs in

gardens at Zulam Bhaug.

destination, .oriental perfumes.

consequent

magnificence and commerce.

its

amrah, the mango blossom.

nabob.

the

for

Baroche. .resolution to return to Europe.,

compared with Pliny's

.

double government

abolition of the nabob's authority,

,.

Mahmud-a-Bhaug.

devastations at

parlour of Eglon.

gardens.

of

at Surat. .decline

situation of the civil

arrival at Surat.

happiness of Surat. .gloomy aspect of the company's

tion of

at

Bom-

increase of crimes

consequence. ungrateful and immoral

.

on the desertion of sepoys. summary of

.

Indian depravity, by Sir James Mackintosh, .excursion to the islands of Salsette

...

CONTENTS.

xii

and Elephanta.

improvements

Tannah. .further remarks and

at

the excavations in those sacred islands.

illustrations of

atmosphere of Salsette. . reflections on

the summit of the excavated mountains

40

CHAPTER
The author

Powa Ghur, and

desirous of travelling to

vented by his

official duties, .avails

ation of those districts.

XXXVI.
the confines of Malvva;

pre-

himself of every opportunity to gain inform-

becomes possessed of Mr. Cruso's papers containing the

particulars of a journey from Surat to Calcutta, with Sir Charles Malet.

which,

amplified and corrected by that gentleman, form the most interesting part of this

and the following chapters, .cause of the embassy, and

pointment by the supreme government of Bengal.
embassy.

the gentleman

who accompanied

Bombay, .departure from Surat

these remarks.

ingratitude of

English. .Tuckarea.
Gracias.

fertility

reception and

Sir Charles.

in that village.

some of

from Futty Sihng. ceremonies

.

Dohud.

escort

leave the

infested

that wild

visit.

presents, .dress

Guicwar dominions, and enter

that fortress described.

district.

lofty hills.

Barreah..

by robbers. alarm.
.

from the Jaboo rajah through

precautions.
this

Myhi. character of the country near

.

Rajoud. sources of the

.

a very singular tribe, described.

fertile

visit

that

Myhi and Coto-

robbery at the tents..

poppies, .manner of extracting the opium., aul

proverbially

visit

design frus-

perilous tract.

the opposite direction of the rivers in this part of Hindostan.

the country.

Brodera.

at

pleasant character of the Bareah rajah, .con-

notorious robbers.

ser rivers. .Churruns,

Oojen

in

the visit returned.

river, .its borderers

arrival

the visit returned at the Brodera durbar, .pa-

this rajah. .Pitlabad. .cross the

Malwa

this

at

broils

tinuation of wild country.

Noulai.

formerly the capital of Guzerat. .romantic country near Malow.

from the rajah.

from

particulars of the visit.

fruit, .intestine

and verses on reading

the higher orders at Baroche towaids the

Cham poneer

trated.

reflections

Mhadajee Sindia. Jarode, Halool. Powa-Ghur

those of

Belah

melancholy picture of Vezelpoor

Borahs, .rajah Ramul Sihng oppressed by Futty Sihng.

of Futty Sihng and his brother.

.

from

at Surat

arrival

there, .dancing-girls, .a

and beauty of the Brodera purgunna.

visit

lace described.

public papers relative to the

Baroche. .arrival

for

be-ropee, or buffoon, .dilapidations of Bowran.

and the English garden-houses

Sir Charles Malet's ap-

and well watered, .singular mud

tree.

produce of

province of

villages.

arrival at

4i 9

CHAPTER

XXVIII.

A DESCRIPTION OF CHANDODEJ

THE PECULIAR SANCTITY OF THE HINDOO TEMPLES, GROVES

AND LAKES, IN THAT DISTRICT; AND A COMPARISON

BETWEEN THE RELIGIOUS TENETS OF THE
BRAHMINS, AND THE SUBLIME
TRUTHS OF CHRISTIANITY.
1781.

" From whence

the progress of the Sage's mind,

Beyond the bounds by Nature's laws

Whence, every form of vulgar

assign'd

sense o'erthrown,

Soars the rapt thought, and rests on

God

alone?

Perhaps, by smooth gradations, to this end

All systems of belief unconscious tend,

That teach the

With

infinite

of nature swarms

gods subordinate through endless forms,

And ever}' object, useful, bright, malign,

Of some peculiar is the care, or shrine.
Ask the poor Hindoo
Exist

he answers,

From Mind

And moulds

if

material things

their existence springs

within, that prompts, protects, provides,

their beauties, or their terrors guides.

Blooms the red

flow'ret?

Durva blushes

Flash lightnings fierce? dread Indra

The morning wakes,

or high the white

That Surya brightens, Ganga

Thus

He owns
And in
This

VOL.

III.

in

each part of

there.

the

fills

air.

wave

swells.

this impells.

this material scene,

that matter leans on

Mind unseen j
God pourlray'd,

each object views some

all in all,

and that but empty shade

!"

C.

Gkant.

CONTENTS.
solemn groves sanctity of Chandode brahminstemples altars Juggernaut account of the ceremonies

District of

Chandode

there by

Dr. Buchananfuneral ceremony of

address to the elements

tiful

divisons of Hindoo castes

the

Hindoos

beau-

extract from Sacontala four grand

temple and

village worship

sealing of the

mark on the forehead very generally adopted ornaments and paintings in the temples Menus Hindoo laws preliminary discourse brahminical belief in the unity of God polyworshippers

theism of the Hindoos

beautiful

doctrine of

letter from

a Hindoo rajah

to

Au-

doctrines of the Grecian

philosophers, compared with the
of the patriarchs character
subof a realYogee pure brahminism mysteries
rungzebe

the metempsychosis
religion

in their religion

truth and beauty of

limity admitted

them

and

happy death

superstition

-further considerations on that subjectidea of the

the subject

pursued

philosophy

among

lent

in different

the

in its doctrines

points of view

Europeans

in India

conversionfurther reflections

minister,

far beyond

of a christian contrasted by Hindoo darkness

Indian natives respecting Christianity

interesting

divine revelation

Szvartz,

its

and practice

effects

and other Indian

of modern

different effects

character

of an

missionaries

an

excel-

interest

taken by George the

sion

of the Hindoos;

First

letter

and Archbishop Wake for

from the prelate

cause and effects of irreligion

tract from, the writings of bishop

subject.

the conver-

to the missionaries

sovereign remedy

beautiful

Home conclusion

ex-

of the solemn

1
ea
B

>
%

G3

X
PS.

>v
s.

<

7^

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Adjoining
diction,

the Zinore purgunna, and equally under

was a

little

district

my juris-

called Chandode, to which the brah-

mins attributed peculiar sanctity; the town, situated on the

lofty

banks of the Nerbudda, was intersected by ravines and watercourses,

formed by heavy rains and encroachments of the

as these inundations

subsided, they

by

steep precipices overhung

left

river:

deep hollow-ways, and

trees entangled

with under-wood

and jungle-grass, affording an impenetrable cover for tigers, hyenas,

serpents,

and noxious

Immense

reptiles.

groves of the ficus religiosa and indica, overshadow-

ing numerous Hindoo temples, and spacious lakes, cast a more

than

common gloom on

" What solemn

" Enwrap

" Unusual
"

horror

Glides o'er

my

thrills

frame.

gigantic

still.,

what stupendous shades

!

Through every nerve

a pleasing fear

The

forest

deepens round;

the impending trees

Stretch their extravagant arms athwart the gloom.

" Are
"

twilight,

those sacred floods

" And more

"

venerated spot.

this

these the confines of

land of Genii ?"

some

fairy

world,

Armstrong.

6
No place in the western provinces of Hindoslan is reputed
as

Chandode; none

most

at least

vie with the fanes

exceed

temples and seminaries

it: its

of Jaggernaut, and colleges of Benares.

thirds of the inhabitants are

criptions:

so holy
al-

Two

brahmins and devotees of various de-

Hindoos of every caste from

all

parts of Guzerat, and pil-

grims from a greater distance, resort thither, at stated

festivals, to

bathe in the Nerbudda, and perform their religious ceremonies on

its

sacred banks; every temple has

tree
to

its

respective images, every burr-

There the brahmins seem

holy lingam, or tutelary deity.

be almost idolized, and inflated with the appellation given

them

in the

code of Menu, of " something transcendency divine."

Such they may be thought by

observers their earthly origin
led

its

me

thither

on occasional

is

their

sufficiently conspicuous.

visits

of the revenue in their holy

deluded disciples;

to other

My duty

to collect the

Company's share

I lived

near four years

districts.

within a few miles of the solemn groves where those voluptuous

devotees pass

their

lives

with the ramjannees, or dancing-girls at-

tached to the temples, in a sort of luxurious superstition and sanctified

indolence

The

unknown

in colder climates.

dewals, or temples, at

Chandode

daily undergo a variety

of lustral ceremonies: not only do the priests and worshippers of

the various deities in the

Hindoo mythology, perform

quent ablutions, but the lingam, the images, and the

washed and bathed with water,

Ayeen Akbery, "

naut

six times

As soon

oil,

that the brahmins

and milk.
wash

We

these frealtars are

read in the

the images of Jagger-

every day, and dress them each time in fresh clothes.

as they are dressed

fifty-six

brahmins attend them, and

7
present them with various kinds of food.
tuals offered to these idols

They

sand persons.

upon a

cession

whoever

is

The quantity of

so very great as to feed twenty thou-

also, at certain times, carry the

carriage of sixteen wheels;

in

assists

drawing

vic-

it

image

in pro-

and they believe that

along obtains remission of

all his

sins."

Such was the account of Abul Fazel, the Mahomedan

He

Akber, two hundred years ago-

vizier of

has there omitted one material

circumstance in the procession of Jaggernaut; that of the volun-

human

tary

sacrifices to this lascivious

too

by Dr. Claudius Buchanan,

well supplied from a late publication

who was an

now be

This can

god!

eye-witness of the horrid scene he describes; which I

much

shall curtail as

as possible.

Jaggernaut, lAth June 1806.

i

modern

have

it

may be

truly

less

to

No

record of ancient or

adequate idea of

compared with the

idol called Jaggernaut, has been

the present age; and he

up

seen Jaggernaut.

history can give, I think, an

of death;

The

is justly

so

him by self-devotement are not

valley of

considered as the

named,

this valley

Hinnom.

Moloch of

for the sacrifices offered

less criminal,

perhaps not

numerous, than those recorded of the Moloch of Canaan.

other idols

accompany Jaggernaut, namely Boloram and Shubu-

dra, his brother

here.

Two

They

and

sister;

for there are three deities

receive equal adoration,

and

sit

worshipped

on thrones of nearly

equal height.
"
the

The temple
extensive

is

a stupendous fabric, truly commensurate with

sway of the horrid king.

As

other temples are

8
usually adorned with figures emblematical of their religion, so

Jaooernaut has numerous and various representations of that vice

which constitutes the essence of

are covered with indecent
ture.

The

his worship.

in massive

emblems,

walls

and gates

and durable sculp-

have also visited the sand plains by the

sea, in

some

places whitened by the bones of the pilgrims; where dogs and

who sometimes begin

vultures are ever seen,

the pilgrim

woman

is

In

quite dead.

this

their attack before

place of skulls I beheld a poor

lying dead, or nearly dead, and her two children bj her,

r

looking at the dogs and vultures which were near.

passed by without noticing the children:
their

home; they

was."

O,

there

is

said " they

asked them where was

had no home but where

their

mother

no pity at Jaggernaut; no mercy, no tenderness

of heart in Moloch's kingdom! Those

err, I trust,

The people

who support

his

kingdom

from ignorance: " they know not what they do/'

Jaggernaut, 18th June.

"
I shall

have

never forget.

returned

home from

At twelve

great day of the feast, the

witnessing a scene which

o'clock of this day, being the

Moloch of Hindostan was brought out

of his temple amid the acclamations of hundreds of thousands of

his worshippers.

When

the idol

was placed on

was raised by the multitude, such as

his throne,

a shout

had never heard before.

It

continued equable for a few minutes, and then gradually died

away.

After a short interval of silence, a

a distance;

all

murmur was heard

at

eyes were turned to the place, and behold a grove

advancing: a body of men, having green branches, or palms in

their hands,

approached with great

celerity.

The people opened

9
a way for them; and when they had come up to the throne, they

down

fell

before

him

And

that sat thereon and worshipped.

the

multitude again sent forth a voice, " like the sound of a great

But the

thunder."

or of joyful acclamation.

mind the

now heard were

voices I

my

Their number indeed brought to

countless multitude of the Revelations; but their voices

gave no tuneful Hosanna or Halleluia:

probation

was rather a

it

yell of

ap-

The throne of

' f

not those of melody,

the idol was placed on a stupendous car,

about sixty feet in height, resting on wheels which indented the

ground deeply as they turned slowly under the ponderous machine.

Attached to
cable,

is

and

of the size and length of a ship's

it

a block of wood, having a

is

Upon

along.

the tower were

of the idol, surrounding his throne.

satellites

with a distended

and he

six cables,

by which the people drew

the priests
idol

were

it

The

frightful visage painted black,

mouth of a bloody

colour; his arms are of gold,

dressed in gorgeous apparel.

The

other two idols are of a

white and yellow colour. Five elephants preceded the three towers,

bearing lofty
bells

caparisons, and

dressed in crimson

flags,

having

hanging thereto, which sounded musically as they moved.

" I went on in the procession, close by the tower of Moloch;

which, as

it

was drawn with

as thunder: after a

few minutes

of the god began.

idol,

and pronounced

who responded,

difficulty, grated

it

on

its

stopped; and

many wheels harsh

now

the worship

high priest mounted the car in front of the

his

obscene stanzas

at intervals, in the

same

in the ears
strain.

of the people;

" These songs,"

said he, " are the delight of the god; his car can only

he

is

pleased with the song/'

vol. in.

The
c

car

moved on a

move when

little

way, and

10
then stopped
forth, to

a boy of about twelve years old was

attempt something yet more lascivious,

The

god would move.

if

now brought

peradventure the

child perfected the praise of his idol with

such ardent expression and gesture, that the god was pleased, and
the

multitude emitting a sensual yell of delight, urged the car

After a few minutes

along.

it

An

stopped again.

of the idol then stood up, and with a long rod

in

his

aged minister
hand, which

he moved with indecent action, completed the variety of

dis-

this

gusting exhibition.

" After the tower had proceeded some way, a pilgrim an-

nounced that he was ready

He

laid

himself

down

in

moving along, lying on

to offer himself

the road before the tower as

his

face with his

The multitude passed round him,

was crushed

to death

is

body of

made.

is

it

was

leaving the space clear; and he

said to smile

The people threw

idol.

arms stretched forward.

by the wheels of the tower.

joy was raised to the god; he

blood

a sacrifice to the

when

shout of

the libation of

cowries, or small mone}-, on the

the victim, in approbation of the deed.

He was

left to

view a considerable time, and was then carried by the hurries to

the Golgotha, where I have just been viewing his remains."

Juggernaut, 10th June.

"

woman

The

horrid solemnities

devoted herself to the

idol.

still

She

continue; yesterday a

laid herself

down on

road in an oblique direction, so that the wheels did not

instantaneously, as
hours.

is

kill

the

her

generally the case; but she died in a few

This morning as

passed the

mained of her but her bones.

'

place of skulls' nothing re-

11
"

And

thought

this,

I,

dostan! and their worship in

we

the worship of the brahmins of Hin-

is

its

sublimest degree!

think of their private manners, and

For

it

is

then shall

moral principles

their

equally true of India as of Europe;

What

if

you would know

the state of the people, look at the state of the temple.

" The idolatrous processions continue for some days longer;

but

my

exhausted by the constant view of these enor-

spirits are so

mean

mities, that I

to hasten

As

I first intended.

to

the

away from Jaggernaut sooner than

number of worshippers assembled

here at this time, no accurate calculation can be made: the natives themselves,

vals,

when speaking of

the

number

at particular festi-

usually say that a lac of people, (one hundred thousand)

would not be missed.

asked a brahmin

were present at the most numerous

nessed: "

How can I tell,"

a handful of sand

said he, "

how many he supposed

festival

how many

he had ever

wit-

grains there are in

?"

These horrid superstitious

rites

are not practised in Guzerat;

nor are sanguinary sacrifices of any kind offered on the Hindoo

altars.

Self-immolation by widows too often pollute the flowery

banks of the Nerbudda, and female infanticide, to a great extent,

was then encouraged among whole

are

now happily

ment.

ments

Under
in

tified

spot,

part of the

of the

the groves of

Chandode

of those pilgrims

shrines,

and

These

prevented by the interference of the British govern-

memory

these sacred

tribes in the province.

who

are

and whose ashes were brought

Hindoo system
at

funeral

its

monu-

died on their journey to

cast into the river: because

human body

many

it

to this sanc-

forms an essential

that each element shall have a portion

dissolution.

12

When

there

no hope of recovery, the patient

is

removed from the bed, and

he

may

removal at so

sense, this

that of exposing an

of the Ganges.
ing part of the

upon
with
the

some adjoining room

many

now

scattered in the air,

In a physical

last.

a period must be often attended

though perhaps not quite so decisive as

only mention the circumstances as formsystem.

religious

body

ceremonies.

may have

fire

his

aged parent or a dying friend on the banks

Hindoo

the earth, the

there breathe

critical

with fatal consequences;

generally

on a platform of fresh earth,

laid

either out of doors or prepared purposely in

or veranda, that

is

is

After having expired

carried to the water-side,

It is then laid

upon the

a share of the victim:

and

fall

upon

and washed

funeral pile, that

the ashes are

finallv

the water.

During the funeral ceremony, which

is

solemn and

affecting,

the brahmins address the respective elements in words to the

lowing purport: although there

forming these religious

O Earth!
formed

to thee

rites in

may be

a different

mode

fol-

of per-

other parts of Hindostan.

we commend our

brother; of thee he was

by thee he was sustained; and unto thee he now returns!

Fire! thou hadst a claim

our brother; during his

life

he subsisted by thy influence in nature; to thee we commit

his

body: thou emblem of purity,

ing a

new

O
spired

in

may

his spirit

be purified on enter-

state of existence!

Air!

while the breath of

by thee:

his last breath

is

life

continued, our brother re-

now departed;

to thee

we

yield

him

O Water

thou didst contribute to the

thou wert one of his sustaining elements.

life

of our brother;

His remains are

now

IS
dispersed

who

receive thy share of him,

has

now taken an

ever-

lasting flight

Eastern and western philosophers seem

ment respecting
lution
tifully

at least the authoT of the

coincide in senti-

human frame

of the

this disposition

to

at

its

disso-

Night Thoughts has thus beau-

expressed himself on a similar subject.

" The
" Winds
"

scatter,

through the mighty void,

the-

dry

Earth repossesses part of what she gave;

" And

" Each
" As
"

moist of human frame the sun exhales

the freed spirit

mounts on wings of fire

element partakes our scattered

nature, wide, our ruins spread

Inhabits

all

things, but the

spoils

Man's death

thought of

Man

Young.

In the brahminical benediction at the commencement of Sacontala, the

Hindoo system of philosophy

and contains a beautiful part of

the

first

work of the Creator, and

dained by law
lights

their

the sacrifice

is

fire

is

more enlarged,

still

" Water was

mythology.

receives the oblations or-

performed with solemnity: the two

of heaven distinguish time; the subtle ether, which

vehicle of sound, pervades the universe; the earth

parent of

mated:
bless
I

all

may

increase; and
Isa, the

and sustain you

by

air

all

is

the

the natural

things breathing are ani-

god of nature, apparent

in these eight forms,

!"

have occasionally mentioned the most striking features

moral and religious character of the Hindoos.

less to enter

is

into the various shades

monials observed

among them; nor

English reader.

One

It

in the

would be end-

of caste and different cereare they of importance to an

doctrine which I have not particularly ad-

14
verted

to,

the greatest possible influence

lias

and keeps them

in that

among

all

extraordinary slate of distinction and sub-

ordination which forms their peculiar characteristic;

ing power, in the following manner:

mouth, implying wisdom;

chetteree

and

to fight,

issued from the

and

read,

creat-

to

instruct.

to govern.

The

bice

came from

the

which implies nourishment; these must pro-

or thighs,

vide the necessaries of

sooder

The brahmin

pray, to

that the

proceeded from the arms, implying strength; to

draw the bow,

belly

to

it is

Brahma, the

four grand divisions, or castes, proceeded from

The

the castes,

came from

life

by agriculture and commerce.

the feet, which

means subjection; these are

From

born to labour, and to serve.

The

these four grand divisions

all

the subordinate castes are derived.

1

had constant opportunities of seeing the

at the
cal

Hindoo temples

worship

worship of

Dhuboy and Chandode.

generally divided into the

is

Sarganey Pooja

in

idols.

The brahmini-

Narganey Pooja, and

or the worship of the great invisible

The

latter

always appeared

jects of devotion both of the priests

temple

religious ceremonies

for public worship,

in

to

and people.

God, and

me

is

be the ob-

Exclusive of the

most of the Guzerat

sacred burr, or pipal-tree; under which

to

the

villages

is

the figure of a cow, the

lingam, one or two of the deities, or a vase containing a plant of

the tulsee, or sweet basil, growing on the top of the altar.

times the object of worship

is

Some-

only a plain stone, or a block of

black or white marble, on which flowery sacrifices are daily offered

by the

villagers, either

with or without the presence of a brahmin.

Sometimes they are joined

lives

under the

tree

in their religious rites

on the skin of a

by a Yogee, who

tiger or leopard,

which they

15
are very fond of: if that

is

beyond

their reach, they content

with a mat, and frequently a terrace of cow-dung, where

selves

many

the worshipper remains motionless for

With the other

stupid kind of absorption.

mingle a small quantity of

often

The custom of anointing

stone.

into altars,

is

oil

hours together, in a

sacrifices the

Hindoos

and

of sandal, mogrees,

more common unguents are rubbed on the

odoriferous plants;

them

them-

stones with

and converting

oil,

When Jacob had

very ancient.

been favoured

with the heavenly vision on his journey to Mesopotamia, he took

the stone on which he had slept,

poured
less

upon

oil

it;

and

set

it

up

for

pillar,

and

day on many a shape-

as is practised at this

stone throughout Hindostan.

Although the object of

to the feelings of

their worship

erroneous, and painful

is

more enlightened minds,

it

pleasing to see

is

the Hindoos every morning perform their ablutions in the sacred

and

lakes,

offer

an innocent sacrifice under the solemn grove.

After having gone through their religious ceremonies, they are

sealed

by

the officiating

brahmin with the

tiluk, or

mark, either of

Vishnoo or Seeva; the followers of those respective

ing the two great sects

among

the Hindoos.

deities form-

The mark

is

impressed

on the forehead with a composition of sandal-wood dust and

or the ashes of

cow-dung and turmeric:

which has been adopted

all

descriptions

tend the temple worship,

well

known,

Old and

it is

as also to the

New

a holy ceremon3

ages by the eastern nations, how-

in all

ever differing in religious profession.

both sexes, and

this is

oil,

among

Among

Mahomedans.
to

it;

Hindoos of

the castes permitted to at-

daily practised.

Testament allude

the

To

Many

the

Jews

it

was

passages in the

and a Jewish rabbi says

16
" the perfectly just are sealed, and conveyed to Paradise."
tians are said

by the apostle

day of redemption; and

the destroying angel

is

sealed by the Spirit until the

to be

Apocalypse the charge given

the

in

by

illustrated

Chris-

to

"Hurt

this oriental practice.

not the earth until we have sealed the servants of our

God

in the

name

shall

be on

forehead; and they shall see his face, and his

their foreheads."

The

principal temple at

style of taste

spire

tral
is

is

and elegance

light

and

in

forty feet diameter

Chandode

to

any

finished

is

in that part

good proportion; the

the concave painted

in

a superior

of India: the cen-

interior of the

by

from Ahme-

artists

They

Hindoo mythology.

dome

done

dabad, on subjects

in the

distemper, which

very durable in that climate: but the drawing

is

in

bad, and the style altogether hard, incorrect, and deficient in

the effect of light

lo

is

are

be

all

and shade: a

light

they are acquainted with

idea of middle

tints,

though greatly

inferior in

some resemblance

or the

and dark shade seem indeed

the

harmony of

modern

artists

The

colouring.

have no
outline,

proportion and line of beauty, bears

to the ancient

Greek and Etruscan

vases.

The

temples at Chandode abound with exterior sculpture, inferior to

that at the
Salsette

Gate of Diamonds

at

Dhuboy, and

to

the figures at

and Elephanta; nor can they be named with

the graceful

statues of ancient Greece.

During the
little

intercourse with

pletely cast

among

came interested
At

latter

years of

my own

my

residence in India, I had so

countrymen, and

my

lot

was so com-

the brahmins of Guzerat, that I naturally be-

in all their concerns as far

ascircumstances admitted.

that time very few publications had appeared in

Europe

re-

17
specting the Hindoos; nor were the English then settled in India likely, from their pursuits, to obtain
religion, morality,

Bombay, where

and manners.

society

much knowledge

In the circumscribed island of

was confined

European

the

to

circles,

information of that kind was to be expected; the same cause

little

operated at the principal subordinate settlements: but at

I

of their

was

Dhuboy

a peculiar situation of seclusion and solitude; and,

in

ing to profit by the opportunity, I endeavoured to acquire

observations I

all

these extraordinary people.

I could respecting

particulars

made enable me

to confirm

what

will-

the

The

have since met

with in the writings of Sir William Jones, and other celebrated

But the code of laws

orientalists.

of

Menu,

affords the best

policy and manners.

translated from the Sanscreet

and most authentic system of Hindoo

Although

their

chronology and history ex-

tend far beyond our computation of time, we must allow this

book

to

be one of the most ancient records any where extant.

The preliminary

discourse affixed to

pundits and brahmins,

the

Hindoo

literati

is

a liberal and manly essay; and although

of the present day are very inferior to their

many

ancestors in science and wisdom,

guage

in

which those valuable

same fountain

to

composed by modern

it,

apply

treatises

to for

of them are taught the lan-

were written, and have the

information.

In

this

preliminary

discourse several eminent brahmins, with great elevation of mind,

and

liberality of sentiment, thus address themselves.

"

ment,

From men of

who

enlightened understandings, and sound judg-

in their researches after truth,

hearts the dust of malice

and opposition,

the contrarieties of religion,

VOL.

III.

and

have swept from

it is

diversities

their

not concealed that

of

belief,

which are

18
causes of envy, and

of enmity

the ignorant,

to

are

in

fact

manifest demonstration of the power of the Supreme Being.

it is

variety of colours,

by arranging a

anion

men; and a gardener,

for

for

procures a reputation

planting a diversity of shrubs,

producing a number of different flowers, gains credit and

is

absurdity and ignorance to view,

Him, who

created both the painter and the

commendation; wherefore
in

For

evident that a painter, by sketching a multiplicity of figures,

and

and

an inferior

light,

The

gardener.

truly

it

intelligent well

know

that

the differences

things are a ray of his glorious essence;

and

varieties of created

and

that the contrarieties of constitutions are a type of his

ful attributes,

whose complete power formed

all

wonder-

creatures of the ani-

mal, vegetable, and material world, from the four elements of fire, water, air,

and earth, to be an ornament

to the

magazine of the creation

and whose comprehensive benevolence selected man, the centre of

knowledge, to have dominion and authority over the
having bestowed upon
standing, gave

and

to every sect

merous variety of
he views

in

appointed

into his

affairs,

all

favourite object

him supremacy over

when he had put

posal of

this

its

hand the

own

castes,

free control

it.

to

and,

and arbitrary

each tribe

its

own

dis-

faith,

and having introduced a nu-

religion;

and a multiplicity of different customs,

each particular place the

to

judgment and under-

the corners of the world

he appropriated

and,

rest:

Sometimes he

is

mode

of worship respectively

employed with the attendants

upon

the mosque, in counting the sacred beads; sometimes he

in the

temple at the adoration of idols; the intimate of the Mussul-

man, and the

tian,

friend of the

Hindoo; the companion of

and the confident of the Jew.

"Wherefore

men

is

the Chris-

of exalted

19
upon hatred and opposition, but

notions, not being bent

consider-

ing the collected body of creatures as an object of the power of

the Almighty, by investigating the contrarieties of sects, and the

customs of

different

reputation

religion,

have stamped to themselves a lasting

upon the page of the world;

tensive empire of Hindostan, which

is

particularly in the ex-

a most delightful country;

and wherein are collected a great number of Turks,

Persians,

Tartars, Scythians, Europeans, Armenians, Abyssinians, &c."

The beauty and philanthropy of

apologize for

mins and
of their

its

prolixity.

During

religious sectaries of the

life

and conduct

this

my

quotation

residence

Hindoos,

as convinced

me

will, I trust,

among

the brah-

I witnessed so

much

of the usefulness of

many who performed their active duties; and, as far as the laws
of caste and their own knowledge permitted, instructed those who
were allowed to learn,

in their religious

also convinced, that the

unity of

it

am

in the

necessary to represent his

under symbolical forms, for the comprehen-

different attributes

They have

sion of the vulgar.

stoics

most enlightened brahmins believe

God, although they think

celestial beings for

and moral duty.

also permitted the representation of

a similar purpose;

in the

same manner

and other philosophers, who were unwilling

popular religion of their country, yet knowing

how

as the

to disturb the

truth

was ob-

scured by fable and allegory, they ventured to establish tenets

which enlarged the

lowers;
attain,

and went

ideas,

as

and ennobled the minds of

far in their

system as

human

unenlightened by the Sun of Righteousness.

their fol-

nature can

Many

of

their writings clearly indicate the sublimity of their conceptions.

Strabo, probably, gives the general opinion of those ancient sages

20
when he

asserts that " the

thunder of Jupiter, the

the trident of Neptune, the

torches and

who formed

as bugbears to

and

all

which the

fable;

the political constitution of stales,

employ

overawe the credulous and simple."

Among my Hindoo
liberal

of Minerva,

snakes of the Furies,

together with the whole heathen theology, are

legislators

&>gis

intelligent

visitors at

men

Dhuboy,

have frequently heard

express themselves almost in the very

words of Jesswant Sihng, the Hindoo rajah, who wrote the following letter to the emperor Aurungzebe, a prince of a most fanatical

and persecuting

spirit:

it

is

deservedly preserved by

Orme

in

his valuable history.

"

Your

royal ancestor, Abker,

conducted the
the space of

affairs

is

now

in heaven,

of this empire in equity and firm security, for

years; preserving every tribe of men in ease

fifty

happiness, whether they

David or of Mahomed
rians, they all equally

much

whose throne

and

were followers of Jesus or of Moses, of

were they brahmins of the sect of Dha-

enjoyed his countenance and favour: inso-

that his people, in gratitude for the indiscriminate protection

which he afforded them, distinguished him by the appellation of

Juggut-Grow, guardian of mankind.

faith

in

those

books, by distinction called divine, you will there

be instructed that
of

Mahomedans

in his presence;

he who
is

If your majesty places any

God

alone.

is

the

God

of

The Pagan and

the

he

gives existence.

is

not the

Mussulman

In your temple,

the object of adoration.

customs of other men,

is

to set at

To

to his

it

is

name, the voice

where the
vilify

God

are equally

distinctions of colour are of his ordination:

raised in prayer; in a house of images,

still

mankind

all

bell

is

shaken,

the relioion

and

naught the pleasure of the Al-

When we

mighty.

deface a picture,

we

naturally incur the re-

sentment of the painter; and justly has the poet

not

or

arraign,

to

various

the

scrutinize

to

said, "

presume

works of power

divine."
It

well

is

relioion

all

the

man must be

The preceding
wards

known

Hindoos admit of no proselytes

to their

born a Hindoo, he cannot become one.

of their sentiments to-

letter confirms the liberality

other religious systems.

It also establishes the fact, that

the enlightened brahmins firmly believe in the unity of the

head

God-

while at the same time, as just observed, polytheism, on as

extended a scale as ever entered into the Grecian mythology,

the creed of the vulgar

all

unite in the belief of the

chosis, but the ideas of the generality on

unsatisfactory,

and uninfluencing.

with the brahmins on

supposition of
of beinss

who

its

this subject

Frequentty,

this favourite tenet, I

truth, that

it

could have

is

metempsyare vague,

when arguing

have stated, even on a

little

influence on a set

retained no consciousness of a pre-existent state,

whether virtuous or vicious

they generally declined the subject,

by saying such knowledge was imparted to a few highly-favored

brahmins, and twice-born men; but the doctrine of the metempsychosis was to be received by
as

an

all

the various tribes of Hindoos

article of faith.

The

doctrine of the metempsychosis,

is

not only of very

mote antiquity, but was widely spread among the most

nations.

Pythagoras,

who

travelled

into

it

his

civilized

Egypt, Chaldea, and

India, on his return to Greece confirmed those

been previously introduced there by

re-

tenets

which had

master Pherecides.

And

appears that not only the doctrine of future rewards and punish-

22
merits, as set forth in the brahrainical code,

by Pythagoras, but

tenets of the Hindoos.

some

that

many

also

back

burnt, there to wait until the

cupy be ready

for

of the other moral and religious

Craufurd says

souls are sent

many

to the spot

of the latter believe

where their bodies were

new bodies they

are destined to oc-

This appears to correspond

reception.

their

were publicly taught

with an opinion of Plato; which, with

many

other tenets of that

The

philosopher, was adopted by the early christians.

of Menu, enlarging on
those

this

subject, assert that

men who have committed

after death,

sins in the

institutes

the vital souls of

body, shall certainly,

assume another body, composed of nerves, with

sensations, in order to be the

five

more susceptible of torment; and

being intimately united with those minute nervous particles, according

to their distribution,

pangs indicted
It

in

feel,

in that

among

is

often mentioned in these memoirs,

from the

it is

Great Soul

the

it

is

philo-

equally

man

origi-

of Being, the Divine

and when, by the inevitable stroke of death,

tenement of clay,
Deity.

Roman

the enlightened brahmins, that the spirit of

nally emanates
Spirit:

new body,

each by the sentence of Yama.

was a prevailing idea with the Grecian and

sophers, and, as
so

they shall

it

quits

its

again absorbed into the immensity of the

This, they taught, was to be the final state of the virtuous,

while the souls of the wicked were

portionate to their crimes.

doomed

to

punishments pro-

Such were the purest doctrines of

Pythagoras, Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle; both these and their

moral system deserve our admiration, but how

fall

from the

faith of, the

far short

do they

ancient patriarchs in the Great Jehovah,

long before the law was given

to

Moses, or grace and truth

23
came by Jesus

Christ

Whether God vouchsafed

immediately from himself, as

lie

the administration of angels,

sometimes did

to

his revelation

Abraham;

or by

by

or in a dream, as

as to Lot;

men had none

Jacob's symbolical ladder; those highly-favoured

of those doubts which perplexed the philosophers of Greece and

Rome.

They could

Stoa or dispute

not, with metaphysical subtilty, argue in the

in the

Mesopotamia went

Lyceum, yet

far

these unlettered shepherds of

beyond them

could plant a grove at Beersheba, and call upon the

everlasting

God

When

he sent

Abraham

in strong faith

his servant into

name

Mesopotamia,

take a wife for his son, he could say in simple language, "

God

of Heaven,

the land of

my

who took me from my

of the

father's

to

The Lord

house and from

kindred, he shall send his angel before thee to

There was no mystery

direct thee in the way."

in the revelation to

Isaac when the Lord appeared to him at Beersheba, and said " I

am
and

the

God

of

will bless

when,

Abraham

thee!"

thy father, fear not, for I

Who

after leaving his

am

with thee,

can be a stranger to Jacob's sentiments

father's

house in poverty and

and

distress,

sleeping on the ground, on his journey to Haran, with only a stone

for his pillow,

he dreamed that a ladder w as set upon the earth,

r

and the top of

it

ascended and descended on

to conjecture,

place;

ven

it is

it?

When

but piously exclaimed, " Surely the Lord

fathers
all

from

my

all

is

left

in this

none other but the house of God, and the gate of hea-

experience, he blessed Joseph, and said,

my
me

he awoke, he was not

In his extreme old age, after such an eventful

!"

God

reached to heaven; and behold the angels of

Abraham and
life

evil,

Isaac did

"

The God

walk, the

life as

before

whom

God which

long until this day, the Angel which redeemed

bless

thy sons

!"

When

few

these patriarchs had

fed

me
fi.il-

24
filled their

in the

generations, and their remains had been long deposited

cave of Macpelah, the Almighty

Abraham, of

Isaac,

has told us, that

ing.

What

passages

calls himself* the

God

of

and of Jacob; and one greater than Abraham

God

is

simplicity,

not a

God

of the dead, but of the

what beauty, what sublimity, are

liv-

in these

"What do the doctrines of the ancient philosophers, or the

reveries of

modern brahmins,

senassees,

and yogecs,

These devotees are composed from

comparison?

re-

offer in the

any

of the

other seels of the Hindoos, except the caste ofChandala; they leave
their family,

break every tender connexion of

life,

and wander

over the face of the earth, in the exercise of their religious duties.

Their rules are very

strict,

and some of

their voluntary

of the severest kind; but to what do they tend?

sketches

is

In Craufurd's

an extract from the Sanscrit writings,

said, " that a senassee

" solitary religious

life,

or yogee,
shall

who

shall

penances

in

which

it is

devote himself to a

wear no other clothing but what

may

" be necessary to cover his nakedness; nor have any other worldly

"goods but a

staff in

his

hand, and a pitcher to drink out

of.

" That he shall always meditate on the truths contained in the

" sacred writings, but never argue upon them.

That

his

food

"shall be confined to rice and vegetables; that he shall eat but

" once a day,

and then sparingly.

That he

shall

look

for-

" ward with desire to the separation of the soul from the bodv;
" be indifferent about heat, or cold, or hunger, or praise, or re" proach, or any thing concerning this

life;

and that unless he

" strictly follow these rules, and subdue his passions, he will only

" be more criminal by embracing a state the duties of which he

" could not perform, and neglecting those he was born to observe."

25
Sir

William Jones, and other oriental writers on the Hindoo

La

mythology, agree with the narrations of Bernier, Chardin,

Croze, and

many

celebrated travellers in former days, as to the

One Supreme

brahminical faith in the purity and sublimity of

Being, under the

is

name of Brahma,

or the Great

One; "

he

that

the spirit of wisdom, the universal soul that penetrates every

thing; that

God

is

upon a sea without bounds;

as

that those

who

wish to approach him, must appease the agitation of the waves;

that they

must be of a tranquil and steady mind;

retired within

themselves; and their thoughts being collected, must be fixed on

God

only."

These are as sublime ideas as can enter into the soul of

in his

present state of existence; and that some of the brahmins

may

attain to

from

me

tainment

the enjoyment of such spiritual

contradict; but

is

confined to a few,

in the

and the

Vedas
oil,

orifice

it

is

in

asserted that

to either of the

wax, and melted

be

it

assert, that this at-

millions

far are the

inferior castes to acquire

Code of Menu

to them, heated

may

delight, far

when compared with the

keep them as much as possible

caste reads the

ears,

certainly

mass of Hindoos; and so

mins from wishing the

that they

we

to

that form the great

And

man

brah-

such knowledge,

a state of ignorance.
if

one of the Sudra

other three tribes, or listens

tin, shall

stopped up; and that

if

be poured into

his

a Sudar gets by heart

the Vedas, he shall be put to death.

Shall

we

then, with

modern

sceptics

and philosophists, com-

pare the religion of the Hindoos with that of the gospel? with
the blessed Catholicon, which, Avafted on wings of celestial love,

is

spread forth for the healing of the nations, when immersed in

VOL. III.
E

26

Who

ignorance, and vice?

folly,

can understand the mysteries

of Brahma, or enter into the abstracted reveries of his priests?

They have answered

God

is

question themselves, by saying, that as

this

being without shape, of "

" formed, the adoration

"

God

religion,

before

whom no

idols,

precise idea can be

being ordained by their

and consider that

will receive,

as adoration offered

" to himself."

But what

saith the

inhabiteth eternity? "

me

there

is

no God

Holy One of

Israel,

God of Israel, the High and Holy One who

I am the first and I am the last, and besides
Thus

who

saith the

Lord thy Redeemer, the

created the heavens, and stretched out

the earth, he that giveth breath unto the people

unto them that walk therein;

my

name; and

glory will

And

graven images!"

should be

its

am

the Lord thy

my

its

plished, that her iniquity

tidings to Zion,

lift

my people, saith your God

pardoned!

is

up thy

Behold your God!"

And

voice,

every denomination,

"Look

else

Such

my

who

speak ye comis

accom-

thou that bringest good

and say unto the

cities

of Judah,

hear the language of the great propitia-

tory Sacrifice unto these brahmins,

none

is

praise to

nursing fathers, and the queens

fortably to Jerusalem, and say unto her, that her warfare

spirit

nursing mothers, he thus speaks by his prophets;

" Comfort ye, comfort ye

of sin

and

God, that

not give to another, nor

it,

to the poorest of his church, as well as to

who should be

the kings

upon

Avho

unto me,

senassees,

torture themselves

and be saved!

and devotees of
for

for

the expiation

am God, and

!"

is

the prophetical language of the Old Testament: in the

fulness of time these predictions were verified,

and the

birth of the

"

27
Messiah was announced by a heavenly choir singing " Glory

God
to

and on earth peace, good-will towards men!"

in the highest,

During

his ministry,

whom

whom

with

did this divine teacher associate,

did he preach the consolatory truths of his gospel

to the rich, the great,

and the learned, but

He who

and the ignorant.

to

to the poor, the

man

spake as never

Not

humble,

spake, not confin-

ing his blessings nor his invitation to any particular class of people,
saith,

with a beneficence unparalleled,

"

Come

that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give

I shall

comes a

not add more upon

christian,

who

this

in peculiar

interesting

unto me, all ye

you

rest!"

subject than be-

situations has

endeavoured to

acquire a knowledge of the religious doctrines and moral practice

of India.

Ma-

allow the benevolent Hindoo, the compassionate

homed an, and

the follower of Zoroaster, their respective virtues

have also met with mild and amiable characters among the Hottentots of Africa, the

Negroes of

South America, but nothing in

compared with the exalted

basis does

our charity!

it

What

and the Indians of

their religion or morality

ideas inspired

what sublimity and purity does

what a

Caffraria,

it

by the gospel!

a system of moral virtue does

simplicity,

were these interesting truths delivered!

mind must say with

the

ferings of the Messiah,

Roman

and

it

inculcate

its

With

dignified authority

who

witnessed the suf-

and beheld the convulsions of nature

over the world: in due time

On

Surely every unprejudiced

centurion

For near two thousand years has

and extend

termination of that awful scene, " Truly this was the Son of

itself

With

clothe the divine attributes

erect our faith, elevate our hope,

what mild persuasion, pathetic

can be

this religion

at the

God

been spreading

saving influence

will,

have

28
no doubt, extend

to the nations of the

and embrace them

east,

arms of his mercy " who brings his sons from

all

in the

his

daughters from the ends of the earth;" whose religion

to

all

capacities,

and adapted

to

is

and

suited

whether high or

situations,

all

far,

low, rich or poor, learned or unlearned; none can he too high for
exalted promises, none too low for

its

divine consolations.

its

It

has no invidious distinctions for the elated brahmin; no desponding degradation for the outcast
is

Chandala

no respecter of persons, but that

Redeemer

crucified

We

shall

need not go

all

for

teaches that

it

the faithful disciples of a

be accepted through him.

for these consoling truths to the palaces of

humblest village

princes, nor the seminaries of the learned; the

affords strikingexamples; because to the poor the gospel

I

God

is

preached.

have witnessed the triumphant language of a domestic servant

on the bed of sickness and near the hour of death,

for years in painful

and languishing

disorder.

after suffering

beheld her, with

the countenance of an angel and the fervour of a saint, thus address the minister

and

experienced, and in
sibly

feel

hour

fire,

know

the support of that consoling

I

will

have

the truth, and sen-

promise, "

When

thou

when thou valkest through

thou shalt not be burned; neither shall the flame kindle

thee: for I

thy Saviour

am

the

Lord thy God, the Holy One of

Israel,

!"

Whither would not such a subject lead a philanthropist?

a contrast to these delightful
travels

long-

be with thee, and through the

they shall not overflow thee;

rivers

upon

assembled round her: "

this trying

through the waters

passest

the

friends

truths,

insert

As

an extract from the

of that acute observer, Dr. Francis Buchanan,

who was

29
employed

1800 by the Marquis Wellesley, Governor-

in the year

general of India, to investigate the state of agriculture, arts, com-

merce, religion, &c. of several different kingdoms in Hindostan.

"

The

Tigulas, a caste in

future state;

Mysore, have some

faint notions of

but rather as a thing of which they have heard, than

as a thing of which they are firmly convinced, or in

are

of

much

this

The

interested.

country, are

much

Palliwanlu, like

addicted

to the

all

the Smartal sect,

among the crimes

that of eating in

for

worship of the destructive

In

sacrifices.

which no pardon can be given

company with persons of another

food dressed by their impure hands.

which they

the other inhabitants

powers, and endeavour to avert their wrath by bloody

is

And among

their

caste, or of

punishments

for smaller faults

is

that of giving large draughts of cow's urine,

which

to

have the power of washing away

is

supposed

sin!

The

only thing in which a Sudra ought to be instructed to believe

is,

that the brahmins are greatly his superiors, and that the only

means

by giving them charity.

And

of gaining the favour of the gods

to those

who

refuse to

is

acknowledge these doctrines, no men can be

And

more

intolerant, nor violent."

tracts,

Dr. Buchanan says " that

Hindus, where bloody

woman

is

from

sacrifices

fifteen

to

conclude such painful ex-

among the Morasu, a caste of Sudra

of sheep and goats are offered

Kala, one of the destroying powers,

a

to

is

this singular

custom

to

when

twenty years of age, and has borne

childen, terrified lest the angry deity should deprive her of her infants,

she goes to the temple, and as an offering to appease his

wrath, she cuts off one or two of her fingers from the right hand/'

Such are the remarks of

this intelligent writer;

and

can but too

30
well confirm his

that the gods of

assertion,

many

villages are re-

presented by a shapeless stone.

my

Since
skilled

return from India,

political

in

have been often asked by

and commercial

knowledge, yet seemingly

io-norant of the inestimable benefits of Christianity,

convert the Hindoos;

why not

men

leave them as

why we should

we found them? Such

questions are easily answered; but at present I will only ask

why

the compilers of that fine prayer, which forms part of the established liturgy of the English churches in Hindostan, inserted this
petition, "

Give

to us,

and

to all

whom

thy servants

thy Provi-

" dence hath placed in these remote parts of the world, grace to

"discharge our several duties with piety towards thee our God;
"loyalty towards our king;
" by

whom we

fidelity

are employed;

kindness and love towards one

" another, and sincere charity towards

" the gospel of our

and diligence towards those

all

Lord and Saviour

men;

in all

that,

we adorning

things, these

Indian

" nations

among whom we

" be

over to the love of our most holy religion, and glorify

won

good works, may

dwell, beholding our

" thee, our Father which art in heaven!''

Let us then hope, and by every gentle means endeavour to

realize the hope, that at

no very distant period the Hindoos may

have a knowledge of those scriptures where the

holiness

is

revealed in characters

becoming

in the

atonement made

Holy

Spirit, in

mercy and

for a guilty world.

of being absorbed in their mystical reveries,

the influence of the

of truth and

his glorious attributes,

especially in the gospel of Jesus Christ, where

meet together

God

may

justice

Instead

the brahmins feel

opposition to the endless laby-

31

may

nnth of the metempsychosis!

of the body,

they be taught the resurrection

reunion with the soul, and the unchangeable state

its

of the righteous and wicked, at the

realms of
of God;

among

bliss,

Avith evil doers, in the

mundane

abodes of misery and woe

this subject

blessings of heaven

portance

angels and purified spirits in the Paradise

be placed upon a level with the

they must come

speculations;

the justice

retribution, in

a state of alienation from his beatific presence,

or, in

Let not

day of

final

and

to

all

of

an end: but here, the

earth, the blessings of time

and the mercy of God,

cui bono

and

eternity,

conspire to magnify

its

im-

Mella jubes Hyblaea

tibi,

vel

Hymettia

Et thyma Cecropise Corsica ponis

Alas

my

friend,

you

Impossibilities to gain

No

nasei^

Mart.

api.

try in vain
:

bee from Corsica's rank juice

Hyblsean honey can produce.

The preceding remarks,

Lewis.

amplified since

my

return to England,

were originally written under the brahminical groves

in

Guzerat;

so were most of the following observations; which, with mingled

sensations, I have copied

By

and enlarged from those manuscripts.

some, the ensuing pages

may be

thought irrelevant to the

general subject of these volumes; many, I trust, will be of a different opinion.

to indroduce

have been

them

in

dence suggested the

rising generation,

and

for

some time undetermined whether

part, or entirely to suppress them.

latter

Diffi-

a hope of doing some good to the

especially in endeavouring to give a proper

bias to the yet unprejudiced

mind

in India,

prompts

me

to bring

32
among

forward what was .originally written

who asked

those very brahmins

connected with the

the questions;

maturer experience, and a retrospective view of

in

observations of
later

occurrences

England.

Although the generality of the brahmins at Dhuboy and Chan-

dode were more zealous than any

of India, some of them
christians; of

conversed with in other parts

were inquisitive about the worship of

which they had conceived a

pilgrims, or from slight observations

ing their

own

a Parsee merchant at
versally

esteemed

These people,
this

at

our settlements dur-

who understood our

Bombay; a

especially

books, and

own

by Muncher Jevan,

character well known, and uni-

for integrity, urbanity,

in their

me by

of different religious professions, Hin-

Mahomedans, and Parsees;

doos,

me

men

English;

in

made

from Hindoo

Similar inquiries have been put to

travels.

intelligent Indians of other castes

conversed

faint idea

artless,

and good

sense.

expressive style, often asked

important question, " Master, when an Englishman dies

does he think he shall go

tive generally

to his

produced a reply

master, seem to take very

little

God?"

My

to this effect

answer
:

in the affirma-

" Your countrymen,

trouble about that business; they

choose a smooth path, and scatter roses on every

side.

Other

nations are guided by strict rules and solemn injunctions in those

serious engagements,

concerned.

where the English seem thoughtless and un-

The Hindoos

sacrifices at the

Dewal

constantly perform the ceremonies and

the

Mahomedans go through

their stated

prayers and ablutions at the Mosques; the Parsees suffer not the
sacred
ple.

fire to

You

be extinguished, nor neglect to worship

call yourselves Christians, so

do

the

Roman

in the

tem-

Catholics,

3oo
who abound

in India;

many

pray, and use

they daily frequent their churches, fast and

The English alone appear uncon-

penances.

cerned about an event of the greatest importance

On

!"

such a theme the candid mind cannot remain in a state of

neutrality.

The lukewarm church of Laodicea appears

been the most

offensive,

Asiatic churches to

to

and the most severely rebuked of

whom

have
the

all

the divine admonitions were sent. Those

interested in the important concern of establishing Christianity in

British India,

obstacle to

must

the preceding paragraph behold a weighty

in

success.

its

What

fruit

can be expected from seed

sown by the most prudent and zealous missionary

of

if the lives

professing Christians militate against the doctrinal truths and moral

precepts of the Gospel?

degree enter into the

purity; nor

do

tliey

of the Bible, allow

spirit

seem

spect, the disciples of

ful people,

Those Hindoos who read, and

to

doubt

Brahma

its

its

in

some

beauty and

In that

authenticity.

re-

are liberal; but, as a quiet thought-

they wonder that Christianity has so

little

influence on

the practice: they wonder such sublime precepts, such affectionate

invitations,

on

such awful threatening^, should not have more effect

professors.

its

The

incarnation of the Son of

of offence, no stumbling block to the Hindoo,

avatars of his

own

deities.

Christian's faith Avith

fruits

the

ye

shall

The
ments,

what he

know them"

Founder of

is

that

and

III.

it

no rock

believes in the

difficult to reconcile

sees of his conduct.

"

By

their

the grand criterion pointed out by

tribes of Indians in the English settle-

we have one day

worship, as well as themselves:

VOL.

finds

is

that faith, to prove his disciples.

differing castes

know

But he

who

God

peculiarly set apart for public

how do
F

they see

it

observed? They

34
know

that our blessed

how do

self-denial,

that an incarnate

Redeemer preached a gospel of

they see those virtues practised

God

purity and

They know

offered himself as a sacrifice for sin; the inno-

cent for the guilty; that he died an ignominious death, to redeem

unto himself a peculiar people, zealous of good works; instituted

commemoration of

the eucharist in

awful

his

dying

love,

and before

" do this in remembrance of me."

sacrifice, said,

dians perform the sacrifices enjoined them; they well

typical

The

know

his

In-

their

and sacramental meaning: what judgment must they form

of our obedience to this divine ordinance?

The East has been

the scene of wonders from

the

ages; the nursery of art and science; true religion there

her glorious rays; and there,

to lighten the gentiles,

I trust,

she will again

earliest

first

shed

become a "

lioht

and be the glory of the people of Israel

\"

It

should also be remembered, that the hand-writing upon the wall

appeared to an impious monarch

when

in the east,

rioting with his

princes and nobles, his wives and concubines, on the night the

Chaldean monarch}' was destroyed by Darius, the predecessor

of the Persian Cyrus.
ihe glory of

on

whom

The awful example of

Babylon was

lost for ever,

concerns every individual

the light of truth hath shined, whether in a cottage or a

palace: each has respective duties to

circle to influence.

the mysterious
in the balance,
I

that night, in which

art

is

applicable to them

really believed the truth

little

"

Thou

art

set

how

a
far

weighed

found wanting!"

have been asked by

conduct so

an example to

All therefore should seriously reflect

Tekel
and

fulfil,

many

of our

natives

own

of India, whether

we

when our

general

corresponded with their divine injunctions.

What

scriptures;

35

may now

be the prevailing practice

cannot say; certainly the

of Christianity was not the actuating principle of European

spirit

society

about

in

India.

thoughtlessness of futurity, a

religious concerns,

were more prominent.

carelessness

Highly as

esteemed the philanthropy, benevolence, and moral character of

my

countrymen,

infidelity

am

sorry to add, that a spirit of scepticism

predominated

in

the younger part of the

especially in the circle of those

who had

and metaphysical learning,

My

mind

is

classical,

as far as such

quired at sixteen years of age; the period

were then appointed

community;

received what

good education; implying a knowledge of

and

is

called a

mathematical,

knowledge can be ac-

when most of the

writers

to India.

at this

moment solemnly impressed

with scenes

long past in those remote regions; especially in conversation at

the breakfast table of a gentleman, frequented

the

character in the Company's

first

civil

by young men of

service:

the order of the day; the systems of Voltaire and

infidelity

Hume

was

the prin-

cipal topic of discourse; the philosophy of Sans Souci, the grand

subject of admiration!
effaced

by these

The

truths of Christianity were so entirely

doctrines, that for years together,

many

of those

deluded youths never entered a place of worship, nor read the

Bible, except for the purpose of misapplying texts, and select-

ing unconnected passages; so often, and so ably refuted, by

that can be

all

urged by the force of reasoning, or the extent of

learning.
I

have since had occasion to witness the

errors

upon the

living

effect

of those fatal

and dying conduct of many who then em-

braced that pernicious system of infidelity.

know

the misery

it

36
has caused, and

still

causes, to

morse which occurred

some of

the former;

at the closing scene of

and the

re-

one of the most

learned, sensible, and best informed of those eastern philosophists.

This gentleman had, long before his

the creed he had adopted; the

same

seen the fallacy of

last illness,

interesting passage in the pro-

phecies of Isaiah, which engaged the attention of the minister of

the Ethiopian queen, and so happily effected the conversion of a
dissipated English nobleman, had, by the divine blessing, been

my

equally instrumental to the conviction of

his return to

England,

eminent and zealous

to

his brother, at that time

prelates,

On

deluded friend.

one of our most

employed every mean

in his

power

convince him of his error, and providentially succeeded.

Soon

after

knowing of

my

this

arrival in

change

London

paid him a

in his sentiments.

visit,

without

found him studying

the Bible; then opened at the fifty-third chapter of Isaiah, with

his

own manuscript comment upon

passage.

that affecting

and wonderful

This gentleman had been educated, in a more than ordi-

nary manner, a Christian; but

alas!

separated far from the o-uides

of his youth, he forgot the covenant of his

God, and became

enamoured with the continental philosophy: he

hope, sure and steadfast; and parted

with

lost his

the

anchor of

heavenly

pilot

which would have conducted him through the rocks and quicksands of time, to the haven of peace, in a blissful eternity!
He

avowed himself

to

have been a champion

and was too successful

The
of

in the

in the

cause of infidelity

combat.

breakfast party I have alluded to was principally

my own

dispositions,

select friends;

young men of superior

and elegant accomplishments:

composed

talents,

amiable

as such, I loved

and

37
esteemed them:
to

another point of view I was happily permitted

in

adopt the decision of the venerable patriarch, "

come not thou

into their secret; unto their assembly,

be not thou united

its

of

O my

mine honour,

The volume of Truth was my

!"

soul

study; and

divine lessons were pathetically enforced in the annual letters

my

He

more than twenty years

youth.

me during my absence, and

my last return, a bright example

constantly corresponded with

lived

my

beloved parents, and the revered preceptor of

after

of piety and virtue; until, at the advanced age of ninety, he was re-

moved from works

to rewards.

Such was

the

Reverend David

Garrow, of Hadley, a name beloved; a memory revered!

The gentleman of whom

dote

have related the preceding anec-

became an eminent pattern of

father,

and master;

friend,

high and holy vocation.

in

Christianity, as a husband,

a word he walked worthy of his

His house was the house of prayer, and

the incense of praise arose morning and evening from his assem-

bled family.

Painfully could I reverse this picture; hope, deli-

cacy, inclination, forbid

In a few years
are the issues of

now

it

me

pieased that all-wise Being, in whose hands

life

and death,

well prepared for the

illness.

his wife

Finding

his last

and children,

an earnest and

to afflict his

awful change, with

long and trying

hour approach, and having taken leave of

as the concluding act of his

affecting letter to a friend

returned to that source of truth,

life,

who had been

associate in the false creed of philosophy, but

better than silver,

approved servant,

had

he wrote
his chief

not, like him,

" the merchandize whereof

and the gain thereof than fme gold

is

to that wis-

38
dom whose ways
peace

are

ways of pleasantness and

her paths are

\"

The decrees of heaven

"Thy way

in the sea,

is

are mysterious to short-sighted mortals.

and thy paths

mind of every one who

was

in the great waters!"

the exclamation of a pious monarch; and

the

all

it

must often

arise in

man-

attentively reads the history of

kind, or marks events passing around him: the former begins with
the premature death of righteous Abel, a living pattern of faith

and

piety,

and the continuance of

his

murderer Cain, as a fugitive

and vagabond upon the face of the earth.

In contemplating suc-

ceeding events through every period of time, true wisdom

instruct us in this truth, "

Man

was not made

to

wiil

question,

but

adore."

When

was a youth, a ship from England, bound

for

Bengal,

unexpectedly arrived at Bombay, with a number of passengers

for Calcutta;
his talents

among them was a

and

piety, to

whom

venerable clergyman, eminent for

had the pleasure of an early

in-

troduction: he preached only once, after having been a fortnight

on the

island,

and taken pains

He

pean inhabitants.
to the church of
it

to the false

of society:

to study the character of the

selected his text from the solemn address

Ephesus on forgetting her

first

love;

and repent, and do the

therefore, from
first

whence thou

works: or else

I will

quickly, and will remove thy candlestick out of

replete with

and applied

philosophy which then pervaded the different classes

"Remember,

thou repent!''

Euro-

The

discourse was such as

became a

art

fallen;

come unto
its

place,

thee

unless

faithful teacher,

sound reasoning, great earnestness, and affectionate

>Ql

The

solicitude.

application, especially to the younger part of his

audience, was conciliating, pathetic, and impressive: this excellent

minister preached no more; he was the next day seized with an

ill-

ness which soon terminated his earthly career!

Such a pastor

was suddenly taken away, while shepherds of a

different descrip-

were

tion

left to

feed the flock in the wilderness

for

India might

then be termed a spiritual wilderness, compared with the religious

societies in

Europe.

never saw the apostolical Swartz, for

fifty

years the zealous

missionary on the coast of Coromandel, whose fame must ever

live

in the eastern churches.

had

Nor, during

my

abode

in India,

the happiness of meeting with any similar character.

was acquainted with some missionaries of the Romish communion

on the Malabar coast

in the Catholic

and several of the regular clergy stationed

churches at

Bombay, Anjengo, and

other places;

but with none belonging to the Danish mission, or other protestant

Were such

church.
dostan,

and

ministers

much good might

as Swartz

be done

more common

among our own countrymen,

the Indians; but while the higher classes of

European

continue in thoughtless indolence, lukewarmness, or

the garrisons and cantonments are

we have

little

may
ven,"

see your
is

left

society

infidelity,

and

without religious instructors,

reason to expect the Hindoos will

to Christianity.

Hin-

in

become converts

" Let your light so shine before men, that they

good works, and

glorify

your Father which

one of the most solemn injunctions given by

is

in hea-

its

great

Founder.
"What good

may be done

missionaries, Swartz

in

India by prudent and zealous

and others have

clearly evinced.

What mav

40
still

be done

is

pointed out in letters written at the beginning of

the eighteenth century by George the First, king of England, and

that eminent prelate Dr.

Wake, Archbishop of Canterbury,

they are epistles becoming a monarch of

Indian missionaries:

Great Britain, and of the

make

first

dignitary in the Protestant church.

forbear inserting the letter of the former, and shall

I reluctantly

only

to the

a short extract from the

Ziegenbalg and

Grundlerus,

to

latter,

the missionaries

propagating the

then

gospel

in

India.

" It will be your praise, a praise of endless duration on earth,

and followed by a

just

recompence

in

heaven, to have laboured in

the vineyard which yourselves have planted; to have declared the

name

of Christ where

peril

and

whom

it

difficulty, to

ye afterwards

fore, brethren,

Let others be

your

was not known before; and through much

have converted to the

fulfilled

office, I

pontiffs, patriarchs, or

ple, in scarlet, or in gold; let

all

popes;

among

Your province,

your ministry.

place before

faith those

there-

dignities in the church.

let

them

glitter in

pur-

them seek the admiration of the won-

dering multitude, and receive obeisance on the bended knee:

ye

have acquired a better name than they, and a more sacred fame.

And when that day shall arrive when the chief Shepherd shall <nve
to every man according to his work, a greater reward shall be adAdmitted

judged

to

phets,

evangelists,

you.

among

sun

and

into the glorious

apostles,

ye with them

the lesser stars, in the

society of the proshall shine, like the

kingdom of your Father,

for ever!

"

God

hath already given to you an

illustrious

pledge of

his

favour; an increase not to be expected without the aid of his

41

He

grace.

continue to prosper your endeavours, and

will

will

subdue unto himself, by your means, the whole continent of orien-

tal India.

happy men

Christ, shall exhibit so

many

preaching; happy men! to

assemblj of the whole
r

children

whom

who, standing before the tribunal of

nations converted to his faith by your

whom

human

it

shall

race,

'

shall receive

in

that

Such

The

faithful servants, enter

is

men

to

JSehold us,

labours; and also shall hear that glorious

good and

be given

thou hast given us;' happy

by the Saviour,

fied

say before the

Lord! and the

who being justi-

day the reward of your

encomium, " Well done,

ye into the joy of your Lord."

the path, such the reward of the Indian missionary.

clergy stationed in that remote part of the world

may do much

and every individual can do something towards the glorious

ture, the living

temple; which

period of time, but will

when " time

shall

enrol themselves

is

struc-

to continue not only for the short

endure throughout those eternal ages

They may

be no more!"

among

all,

those wise builders

the brightness of the firmament

they will

in

who

know

some degree,
shall

shine as

that " he

who con-

verteth a sinner from the error of his ways, shall save his soul from

death; and they that turn

many

to righteousness, shall shine as

the stars for ever and ever!"

who knows and

feels his obligations to the

Author

of his being for creation, preservation, and redemption,

will en-

christian,

deavour to act as becometh

motive of love.

To

his

high and holy vocation, from the

him, a religious

life,

far

from being a com-

pulsive obligation, becomes his deliberate choice, a service of perfect

freedom; an unlimited conformity to the manners and cus-

VOL.

III.

42
toms of a thoughtless age, would be a cruel bondage.

having received a different

aspires after heavenly-mindedness

world ceases

the

bias,

he tastes the

His heart

lo allure;

he

manna;

celestial

and enjoys a peace which the world can neither give nor take

But

away.

his religion, far

prompts him

to

perform every relative and social duty with pecu-

On

delight.

liar

from rendering him gloomy or austere,

proper occasions

innocent amusement, and convivial pleasure.

creation,

pursues his earthly career, in lively

looking through

charity;
to
is

the

hope, and active

faith, cheerful

valley

Thus he

of the shadow of death

hath foundations whose builder and maker

that city which

God

he partakes of rational re-

In India, a climate favouring voluptuousness, with other local

causes, aids the fascinating stream of fashionable inconsideration;

many

which, united with

smaller

rills,

flows in a

and rapid

full

current through the higher classes of society in Europe; and powerfully carries all before
shall

we

Against such strong temptations, where

it.

an antidote equal

find

tianity,

and the grace promised

God

the

of

is

first

all inferior

rable Being

prosperity

is

to those

principle of that religion,

duties; while

who

we should be
it is

seek

a forgetfulness of

cautious

how we

it?

and leads

the source of an irreligious

pation from whence

is

to the vigilance required

by Chris-

The

love of

to the practice

this great

and worldly

and ado-

spirit.

enter that vortex of dissi-

difficult to extricate ourselves: so flowery

the path to the Circean palace, so delightful the fascinating

of pleasure, that
the alluring

it

requires a careful step

charms

In

and where

to

and

draw the

cup

vigilant eye to escape

line

is

the great difH-

43
but

culty:

combat we

this

in

find that strength con-

own weakness, and

a consciousness of our

sists in

soon

shall

that retreat

is

victory.

Let us then,

in

we

the volume of divine inspiration;

those charms which bishop
shall then

know,

in writing

his

in

Home

shall find the

to possess
;

and we

a degree, the delight which he experienced

invaluable commentary on the Psalms.

and sorrows of

life.

melancholy proportion to
experienced

whole

has sweetly described

ness," says this amiable prelate, " confers

cares

upon

of humility and love, mediLale

spirit

its

Its share

exaltation

" Great-

no exemption from the

of them frequently bears a

:

this the Israelitish

monarch

he sought in piety that peace which he could not

find in empire,

and

alleviated the disquietudes of state with

the

exercise of devotion."

" His invaluable psalms convey

which they afforded

sions, yet

those

comforts to others,

Composed upon

to himself.

particular occa-

designed for general use, they present religion

most engaging dress

communicating

truths

to us in the

which philosophy

could never investigate, in a style which poetry can never equal;

while History

is

made

charms

lends

all

lated

alike to profit

its

the vehicle of Prophecy, and

to paint the glories

and

elevate the affections,

to please, they

and entertain

under the influence of him

all

to

events foreknown, they suit

as the

Calcu-

inform the understanding,

the

whom

all

mankind

manna which descended from

of Redemption.

Creation

imagination.
hearts are

Indited

known, and

in all situations;

grateful

above, and conformed

itself

to every palate.

The

few perusals,

gathered flowers, wither in our hands, and lose

like

fairest

productions of

human

wit, after

44
but these unfading plants

their fragrancy;

as

we

to be

tastes

them

beautiful

their

daily heightened; fresh odours are emitted,

He who

and new sweets extracted from them.

their excellencies,

Paradise become,

more and more

are accustomed to them,

bloom appears

of*

desire

will

oftenest will relish

to

taste

them

hath once lasted

them again

and

who

lie

best.''

had the happiness of a personal acquaintance with the vene-

rable prelate whose energetic language I have quoted; his

He was

doctrine were consistent.

and

life

an eminent disciple of that

Saviour whose precepts he loved and honoured; and his

closing-

scene realized the sublime description of the poet.

" The chamber where
"

Is privileg'd

Of virtuous

'

" God

will

life,

On

"

A lecture silent,

this side

conclude

or

ings,

God

his

"

fears

nor yet of

death

his fate,

common walk

moment, owns

his friends

and points them out to men,

but of sovereign power

confusion, and to Virtue peace !"

in the

has happily condensed

ous concern.

man meets

quite in the verge of heaven

waits not the last

"

" To Vice

beyond the

the good

words of a pious modern

all I

would further say on

do not presume

may

be,

his,

who

Young.

who

to appreciate

who

writer,

this

what

momenthis feel-

says in his heart that there

pretends to acknowledge

the

is

being

of a God, and wholly disbelieves a divine revelation of his

If there be
will

no God, there can be no future

be the value of

no revelation of

life?

his will,

If there be a

state.

God

What

that hath

no

will.

then

made

consequently hath afforded not one gleam

of hope beyond the grave, what will be the value of death

The

45
expectation of annihilation

add no value

will

moral principle has been wanting.

to a life

It will give

where

all

no comfort to a

death, where every thought, every word, every action, every friend

and every
tian

foe

is

buried in one eternal oblivion.

sleep in peace;

thy Saviour

is

thy kind

friend, through all the stages of thy various life

Happy

Chris-

and compassionate
;

and

if,

by Divine

grace, thou continuest faithful unto death, thou mayest look for-

ward

to his further help,

an everlasting

when he

state of existence

"

shall

open

for thee the gate of

Brewster.

72

/ BMA1DMDI

0MAPT ,////.;/- av/vv/

/,n

GVMMA
.r.nn.F.:-

"by Wln't.-

,:.nrrn.-

<'\

H.-.-t

Strtee.Jma tfiAu,

^
S

CHAPTER
OCCURRENCES DURING

XXIX.

JOURNEY FROM BAROCHE TO AHMEDABAD, THROUGH THE DISTRICTS OF AHMOOD,

JAMBOSEER, AND CAMBAY.
A

1781.

Lo, Ganges' genius mourns

With

And

while yet, sublime,

and muses smil'd his native clime

arts

rich with science,

round

his plains

he lov'd

The golden hours in blooming circle mov'd.

With grief he saw the future ages rise.
Dark with

their sad

and fearful destinies

Mark'd bleeding science pinion'd

And

Alas
What

how

filial

While

And

to the

ground,

her blasted trophies withering round!

all

in

dark the baleful ruins spread

tears the sons

of Science shed

each bower the widow'd Arts repine.

Learning clasps her violated shrine.

Sad on

his staff,

Himself how

'mid Casis' blasted scenes,

fallen!

the agedPandeet leans.

C. Grant.

CONTENTS.
Conquest of Ahmedahad by General Goddard
thither,

Guzerat

through Baroche,
coss

Ahmood

of the Indian rivers

mode of

crossing

purgunnah
tan

purgunna

Guzerat

town

rivers

mango

effects

topes

tozmi

Jamboseer

of famine

of Jamboseer

Coolies, a tribe of robbers poetical

swelling

in

Hindos-

a dreadful famine in the Bengal provinces

British humanity on that occasion

Hindoo houses

Ahmood

of

dreadful storm in Guzerat

plentiful crops general

particulars of

from Dhuboy

Ahmood, Jamboseer, and Cambay

account of a

the

-journey

Gurry

description of

manner of travelling Brahminic

and
vultures Pariar dogs erroneous geography of Pliny sardonyx
mountains
Myhifurther account of the Coolies
a Hindoo village

kites

their

river

Cambay purgunna remains of antiquity near

Cambay Cambat ancient pillar pillar of Feroze Shah Sacred
country described

Isles

of the West, a very curious research

Hindoo and English festivals

that of

resemblance between

the Hooli,

the

and Vastu Puja

singular ceremonies of Hindoo worship strange misconception of

a transaction at Dhuboy
bay

ruinous

Akber

state

arrival at

cruel oppressions by

of his country and capital

at

VOL. III.

Nabob of Cam-

noble character of

Cambay, and polite reception by theNabob and

elegant entertainment at
grants
Cambay magnificent
Vizier

the

the Vizier's house

jexcels

Persian emi-

the hill of lustre,

and ocean

of

lustre,

two transccndant diamonds in Persia

Queen Elizabeth

peacock

tlirone

its

commerce

of Cambay

in

former opulence

causes of

its

value

its

Kobertsons picture of a Hindoo rajah proved

beasts in

Guzerat

discovery of

pany of sportsmen on
Scjutra

Guzerat

at that period

and

to be

the

reign of

the

Dr.
erroneous wild
decline

perilous adventure

of a com-

departure from Cambay

beauty of the antelopes

cultivation

in the reign

of Akber

division

of the empire

valuable oxen in Guzerat horses in India ancient

splendor of Guzerat
ate veneration

beautiful

for the dead

Mahal at Agra
ful structure

lions

that occasion

villages

Soubah of Guzerat

Tucht-Taoos,

in

mausoleums at Betwah

Hindostan

estimate of the

affection-

description of

the Taje

expenses in building that wonder-

short comparison with Solomon's temple at Jerusalem.

CHAPTER
General
Bengal

Goddard,

1779

in

command

in

Ahmedabad and

zerat province, I

embraced the

tan,

and

of the

to the assistance of the

having conquered

visit that

XXIX.

army detached from

government

at

Bombay,

several other places in the

first

Gu-

my power

opportunity in

to

celebrated capital, formerly the pride of western Hindosstill

vying with Agra and Delhi

in

magnificent remains of

and

collected the revenues

mogul grandeur.
Having
in the

finished the latter harvests,

Dhuboy

my journey,

districts, in

proceeding

the

to

first

mood, a distance of twenty

month of April 1781

Baroche, and from thence to Ah-

miles.

In Guzerat, as

in

parts of India, the distance from one place to another

by the

coss,

half.

Its

which

in that

most other
is

reckoned

province seldom exceeds one mile and a

length varies in different countries, although geographers

generally estimate the coss

The

commenced

in

Hindostan at two English miles.

usual rate of travelling in a hackery,

drawn by a pair of

locks, or in a palanquin, with eight bearers to relieve

from three

to four miles

an hour

this

bul-

each other,

is

they will keep up for five

hours without inconvenience.

The Boukie and Nyar

are the only rivers between Baroche and

52
Ahmood

the former in ihe rainy

months

fined within a narrow bed; the latter broad

the season they were both nearly dry.

pergunnais a
-a

is

a rapid stream, con-

and

The

soil

black mould, producing cotton,

rich,

variety of Indian grain.

The Ahmood
and

best in these fertile provinces,

is

So

gentle.

cotton

the

in

Ahmood

wheat, and

rice,
is

late in

esteemed the

sold at the highest price in

the Bengal and China markets.

Ahmood, a

I passed the night at

name

to the district;

belonged half

whom

to the

it is

built

garrison.

on the borders of a shady lake, and

purgunna were

the citadel, a place of

A member

its

English and half to a Gracia rajah, between

the revenues of the

mer possessed

small town which gives

also divided.

little

strength,

The

for-

and a small

of the council at Baroche occasionally re-

sided there to collect the company's share of the revenue, which

annually amounted to a lac of rupees, or twelve thousand

five

hundred pounds.

The next morning

from

Ahmood

years before,

and

renewed

my

journey, and about three miles

reached the Dahder, then a small stream, but six

when Ragohah's army was encamped on

its

banks,

passed a wretched night under the lee-side of an elephant, a

tremendous

torrent.

In the rainy months the mountain floods

swell the small rivers of India in a wonderful manner.

few hours they often

height,

rise

Within a

twenty or thirty feet above their usual

and run with astonishing

rapidity.

The Nerbudda, Tap-

pee, and larger rivers, generally gentle and pellucid, are then furi-

ous and destructive, sweeping

bitants

and

cattle

while

away whole

tigers,

villages with their inha-

and other ferocious animals from

the wilds, join the general wreck in

its

passage to the ocean.

53
The
in the

great rivers frequently swell

some time before

low countries, from what immediate cause

sudden

rise is easily

accounted

for in those rivers

the rain

know

falls

not. This

whose source among

mountains, with snow-capped summits, receive additional streams

from the power of the sun

in the hottest

season of the year. Although

theNerbudda andTappee do not spring among such wintry regions,

I

have seen these

Two

rivers in

years before I

left

ting in of the south-west

ever

remembered

terrible

the

India,

damage

at

It

state, threatening destruction.

some weeks previous

to the set-

monsoon, we had the most dreadful storm

Guzerat

in

lives considerable.

an awful

ravages by sea and land were

its

Baroche was very

came on

great,

and the

so suddenly, that a

ding passing in procession through the

streets

by

loss

of

Hindoo wed-

torch-light, with the

usual pageantry of palanquins, led-horses, and a numerous train of

attendants, were overtaken by the tempest, and fled for shelter into an
old structure,

on that

which had

fatal night,

for ages withstood the rage of the elements

from the violence of the winds and rain, both

company

roof and foundation gave way, and seventy-two of the

were crushed to death.

.

At our

villa

ments rushed

every door and window was blown away, the ele-

in at all directions,

books, and clothes.

beam

killed a fine

The roof of

and spoiled

furniture, pictures,

the stable giving way, the

Arabian horse, and maimed several

main

others.

The

garden next morning presented a scene of desolation, strewed with

large trees torn

up by the

roots,

broken

pillars, seats

and orna-

ments, sea and land birds, wild and tame animals, porcupines,

guanas, serpents, and

fro nvtfae

reptiles,

all

crushed together.

ocean, together with those of the

river,

were

Large
left

fish

upon the

54
One of the company's
from Bombay was lost in die river,

banks, and covered the adjacent

armed

vessels lately arrived

together with a great

fields.

number of large cotton boats and other

craft,

richly laden.

The

many

effects

of

this

storm at Surat were

still

more dreadful

ships foundered at the bar, or were driven on shore; the

banks of the Tappee were covered with wrecks, which the violence
of the wind and swelling floods carried to a great distance inland;
the river flowed into the city, covered the surrounding country,

did incalculable damage.

which

at the

I will not give the

at

melancholy detail

time interested every feeling heart, though one

cumstance must not be entirely passed over.

and

cir-

The English being

war with the Mahrattas, large detachments of their cavalry were

then in the vicinity of Surat, committing their usual depredations.

About

three thousand inhabitants, to avoid their cruelty, deserted

the villages, and took refuge on an island in the Tappee, with their
wives, children, cattle, furniture, looms, spinning wheels,

of grain for the rainy season.

until the setting in of the

There they anticipated an asylum

monsoon should

drive the Mahrattas from

the country, and allow them to return home.

more formidable enemy

river entirely

vidual

to contend with

overwhelmed the

and stock

island,

They had,

on that

and carried

alas!

fatal night

off

the

every indi-

My

palanquin- bearers

stream of the Dahder; the

now found no
last

time

difficulty in fording the

crossed

it

was with some

danger, on a raft placed over earthen pots, a contrivance well

known

in

modern Egypt, where they make a

tied togellier,

float of earthen pots

covered with a platform of palm leaves, which will

55
bear a considerable weight, and

is

conducted without

difficulty,

This satisfactorily explains the earthen-ware boats of Juvenal.

Hac

saevit rabie

Parvula

fictilibus

Et brevibus

On

crossing the

presents a

imbelle et inutile vulgus,

solitum dare vela phaselis,

pictoe

remis incumbere

Dahder

Sat. 15.

testae.

ver. 126.

Jamboseer purgunna

I entered the

it

more pleasing landscape than Ahmood and Baroche,

which generally consist of open cultivated

Here the

near the villages.

plains, with trees only

enclosed,

fields are

and the whole

country enriched by plantations of mango, tamarind, and banianForty or

trees.

fifty

full-grown mango-trees will cover a square

acre of ground, forming a dark grove of beautiful foliage to shelter

the traveller from meridian heat

and

at the season I

affording a golden produce for his refreshment.

as

much

pound.
its

fruit

in

size as

flavour, weighing from

Although the tamarind

tree

pleasant and wholesome,

is

it is

was

there,

The mangos vary

two ounces

to near a

exquisitely beautiful,

deemed by the

tremely unhealthy to sleep or even to rest under

its

and

natives ex-

shade. Captain

Williamson justly observes, that " the numerous plantations of

mango-trees by the natives, chiefly through ostentation, afford considerable convenience to persons inhabiting tents.
plantations, or topes, are of such extent that an

twelve thousand

which
great

men may encamp under

to the native soldiery, with

whom

months these woods

of these

army of ten

or

shelter; a circumstance

tents are not in use,

moment. In the hot season the shade

tary, in the cold

Some

is

afford

is

of

both pleasant and salu-

warmth by keeping

off

the bleak wind; and in the rainy portion of the year those trees

56
which have ihe thickest foliage contribute

comfort of the

to the

troops, by throwing the water off from certain spots,

Sporting parlies are benefited in a similar man-

them habitable.

ner; such places are chosen as are well shaded,

or tanks.
trees

is

It

a well on one side of

to dig

tope are married,

large

a ceremony at which

sums are often expended. The

band; as

its

to wells

mango

all

well

The

it.

well

and the

considered as the hus-

is

young

hot season, are supposed to cherish and im-

first

pregnate them.

and

the village attends,

waters, which are copiously furnished to the

trees during the

Though

of these institutions, yet

vanity and superstition

may

we cannot help admitting

be the basis

their effects, so

and affording such gene-

beautifully ornamenting a torrid country,

ral

and near

a general practice when a plantation of

is

made,

and rendering

convenience."

The

soil

of the Jamboseer purgunna

light

is

vourable to juarree, bajeree, and other grain.

and

fertile,

The western

fa-

plains,

of a rich black earth, produce abundant crops of wheat and cotton.

This district had then been six years in the company's pos-

session,

under the care of Mr. Callander, a gentleman whose atten-

tion to agriculture

and the happiness of the peasants, rendered the

villages flourishing, wealthy,

The country had

and populous.

the

appearance of a garden, and peace and plenty smiled around him.

The annual revenue

The

usually

amounted

crops, similar to those in the

neral very

abundant

but a real famine

is

failure of rain

to five lacs

Dhuboy

is

dreadful!

districts,

were

in

ge-

sometimes causes a scarcity,

seldom experienced

happen the consequence

of rupees.

in

Guzerat: when

Famine

is

it

docs

generally sueceeded

by pestilence, and ihe paradise of nations becomes a

desert!

" All

57
nature sickens, and each gale

During

death."

is

my

residence in

India I never witnessed these calamities in any alarming degree

my

since

England both

return to

their dire effects. I

remember

have

sides of the peninsula

the rains at

held until long after the usual season.

Bombay

felt

being once with-

To avert the fatal consequences

apprehended, the professors of all the different religions on the island

made solemn
offer

up prayers and supplications

to

the

Great Parent

of the

In the Protestant and Romish churches the usual peti-

universe.
tions

processions to their respective places of worship, to

were made

their ceremonies; the

mahomedans

the Parsees fed the sacred

At

sandal-wood.

The Hindoos were

for this blessing.

daily

opened

their

lavish in

mosques, and

with a double portion of holy

fire

length the rain poured

down

oil

and

copiously, fear

vanished, " the wilderness and the solitary place rejoiced, and the
desert blossomed as the rose!"

The

extent of these dreadful famines in India

The account of one

ceived in Europe.

of Bengal, by Captain Williamson,

unvarnished tale which

interesting particulars,

the light in which

his lot

may

be

often-quoted

it

I shall
it

in the northern provinces

truly affecting.

not pass over, because,

deserves to be estimated.

cast, feels

not easily con-

It

is

a plain

among many

displays the English character in India in

and

acts in the

Briton, wherever

true sense of Terence's

line,

" Homo sum, humani

I

is

is

am a man,

nihil a

and have a fellow-feeling

me

alienum puto."

for every thing belonging to

man

" Nothing could be more distressing than the effects produced

by the famine, which, owing

VOL.

III.

to

the extreme drought of the year

i

58
1793, prevailed throughout

the subsequent season throughout

all

the whole of the northern provinces, but was especially

Nabob

dominions of the

Oude.

Vizier of

Even

the

felt in

in the fertile

and

subject to the control of the English go-

well-cultivated districts

vernment, a very alarming scarcity prevailed, which would probably, but for the timely precautions

diable injury.

In the

Nabob

wanting, and where industry

adopted, have proved of irreme-

Vizier's territories,

by no means a characteristic, the

is

inhabitants were reduced to the utmost distress.

had hoarded up

their grain

where order was

The more opulent

some, perhaps, did so under the

mited and prudent intention of securing

their

own

li-

families from

want, while many, foreseeing what was inevitable, neglected no

means

to

procure corn of

all

descriptions, with the nefarious view

of taking advantage of the times, and bent on raising their fortunes

on the miseries of

their fellow-creatures.

The hordes of famished wretches who pa-

in their speculations.

troled the country

Few, however, succeeded

made no

distinction of property, but, urged

by

the imperious calls of nature, plundered alike the savings of the

provident and the accumulations of the monopolists.

" This being but a temporary

encouraging a

what did

spirit

exist with

ment, and not a

relief,

had the baneful

effect

of

of depredation, whereby, in lieu of retailing

a sparing hand,

little

lost in the

all

was profusion

scramble.

for the

Such was the blind

infatuation of the million of walking spectres, that, in the

of phrenzy and despair,

many

mo-

granaries were burnt.

moment

Resentment

and impelled

overcame even the principles of

self-preservation,

them

such as indicated the wish not

to the perpetration of follies

to obtain redress,

but to involve

all

under one general ruin."

59
" Here

may

it

be proper, as well to prevent

illiberal suspicions

from attaching to Europeans at that period as on other occasions,

to state, that

throughout the country the most zealous and unani-

mous means were adopted

ing the national

gentlemen of

all

check the

evil.

So

far

from blemish-

character, the philanthropy displayed

by the

India justly entitles them to the

professions in

Their sensibility and energy did them immortal

foremost rank.

Of this,

honour.

to

however,

We

famished multitude.

it

would not be very easy

to satisfy a

cannot expect discrimination from the

poor wretch whose cravings guide

his

thoughts to one object only,

and which, moreover, he views according

to his

own

disconsolate

situation.

"

When

became obvious

it

government sent

averted,

afforded, from

that the

supplies,

famine could not be

which indeed could

Bengal, where the scarcity was least

troops through the upper country.

could have but a partial

much

lessen the evil as

effect,

felt,

be

ill

to the

This measure, however salutary,

but more could not be done.

as possible, the

To

European gentlemen en-

tered into large contributions for the purposes of procuring grain

The

from other parts.

were conducted
that, at

Cawnpore

cantoned, no

sand

will

five

less

be

on which these subscriptions

liberal scale
sufficiently

alone,

understood when

it is

stated

where about eight thousand men were

a sum than a lac of rupees, equal to twelve thou-

hundred pounds, was collected, and being vested with a

committee, whose economy and assiduity merit the warmest enco-

miums, was applied

to the relief of as

many

persons as

it

was sup-

posed could be maintained until the next harvest.

" All could not be relieved; consequently the station occasion-

60
ally exhibited a scene of the

however necessary
ficiently

might be, could harden

it

As

repel!

to

most horrid licentiousness, which few,

to

live stock, little

boundaries were annihilated, and

devour what

their

Religious

left.

castes or sects were seen to

all

taught them either to respect or to abhor.

their tenets

Many devoured

was

their hears ts suf-

own

children! and thousands perished while

attempting to force open pantries, and other places containing

victuals,

insomuch that

it

common

was

to find in the

morning the

who

with dying objects,

out-offices of

our houses half

their ghastly

countenances seemed to express hope, while their

filled

with

tongues gave utterance to curses!

" The good intention of the donors was productive of a very

serious evil,

which

in the

The

guarded against.

first

instance was not, perhaps, sufficiently

intelligence

was rapidly spread throughout

the country that the Europeans, at the several military

stations,

had made provision

This induced

all

to

bend

for

and

supplying the poor with

their course

civil
rice.

towards the nearest asylum.

Thousands perished by the way from absolute hunger, while numbers

fell

an easy prey to the wolves, which being bereft of

their

usual means of subsistence by the general destruction of all eatable

animals, were at
to

first

compelled, and afterwards found

attack the wretched wanderers.

The

little

it

convenient

resistance the}' expe-

rienced in their depredations on these unfortunate creatures,

boldened them

in

an astonishing manner, and taught them

to

emlook

with contempt and defiance towards a race of whose powers they

were heretofore

in awe.

" Such numbers, however, succeeded

cantonments, that we were to

all

way

to the

intents in a state of siege.

The

in finding their

61
wolves followed, and were to be seen in

havoc among the dying crowd.

They

all

directions committing

many

absolutely occupied

gardens and out-houses, and oflen in open day trotted about like
so

many

dogs, proceeding from one ravine to another without

seeming to entertain the

least

become with mankind, and

move from what

apprehension.

so

little

So familiar had they

did they seem disposed to re-

them was a scene of abundance!

to

cannot

give a stronger idea of our situation than by informino; the reader,

that not only the wolves, but even the swine, were to be seen in
directions attacking the poor wretches,

drive

away

their ravenous devourers,

whose feeble endeavours

all

to

were the only indications that

the vital sparks were not quite extinct.

" The demise of such numbers tainted the

sickness

among

and the most

the troops.

Many

in of the rains,

officers died

heard

it

stated

It

is

of putrid fevers,

which both abated the extreme

heat of the atmosphere and carried off

fensive remains.

and caused a

would inevitably have followed

serious consequences

but for the setting

air,

immense

not easy to assert

quantities of of-

how many

by some gentlemen of the committee

died, but I

for

managing

the subscription money, that at least two hundred thousand persons had flocked from the country, of

twenty could be maintained

elapse before the
less

soil

for the

could render

whom

not more than one in

number of months which must

its

aid.

To

calculate

upon

than a regular supply until such should be the case, would

have been

absurd

for

there

was not the smallest probability

of the scourge being abated in the meanwhile.

vinces, as before remarked, could

do

little

The lower

pro-

more than support them-

62
selves;

and no periodical supply of the

in the rainy season,

fruits,

&c. usually produced

could be expected in a country of which nearly

two-thirds of the population was destroyed.

" This mournful scene, however, gradually drew to a close.

The unfortunate group had

either died, or

health,

and were capable of returning

wolves

now

felt

to

The

to their occupations.

themselves bereft of their usual prey, but did not

lose their habit of attacking

ral

had been restored

men

many

of

whom, though

in

gene-

provided with some means of defence, which circumstances had

rendered necessary, yet became victims to their depredations,

at length

measures could be taken to check

were obliged

to

have recourse

to their

their rapacity,

former researches

Jamboseer, the capital of the purgunna,

from Ahmood, although

is

till

and they

for food."

seven miles

onljr

have made a long digression from the

direct road to the distant provinces of Bengal.

miles in circumference, surrounded

by a mud

The town

is

two

The gurry

wall.

was deemed a place of strength against the country powers, but

these citadels soon

Hindoo houses are

fell

before European artillery.

Some

of the

large; the exterior style of architecture has nei-

ther elegance nor proportion

the interior generally consists of

small dark low rooms, surrounding an open area, Avhich sometimes

contains a garden and fountain, with an altar of tulsee, the sacred

plant of the brahmins.

The

the roofs are often

but frequently covered with

inferior houses

flat,

have either

grass, or the leaves of the

zerat,

Jamboseer

is

stairs are

always steep and narrow;

tiled roofs, or are

palmyra.

situated near

tiles.

The

thatched with jungle

Like most large towns

in

Gu-

an extensive lake, the banks

adorned with Hindoo temples and caravansaries, overshadowed by

'

.'

. '

63
mango and banian

trees,

and the surface almost covered by the

lovely flowers of the lotus in

all its

me

Mr. Callander accompanied

We

bad.

left his

and passed the

who

from Jamboseer

to

Ahmeda-

hospitable mansion early on the 27th of April,

sultry hours at

Gudgerah, a large populous town

surrounded by a wall, to protect

Coolies,

varied hues.

from the depredations of the

it

are a very insolent set

among

the numerous, and pro-

bablj indigenous tribes of freebooters and robbers in this part of

r

Guzerat.
clever,

The Indian

robbers of

all

descriptions are

and by long habit elude the greatest

From Gudgerah we proceeded

the south

vigilance.

to Corelli, a pleasant village

banks of the Mahi, which gives

brated pass over that

We

river.

uncommonly

its

name

to the cele-

pitched our tents under a spread-

passed the night more pleasantly than

ing banian-tree, and

on

we

could have done in any house in the village, although in those

districts the villages are generally large

and tolerably convenient,

with a bazar or market well supplied.

Banian and mango groves,

temples, choultries, wells, and tanks, add to their comfort and

beauty.

They

realize Southey's picture in

Kehama, which

description of a

good Hindoo

detached parts of

have brought together, as a novel and

'Twas a

A green
And

scene wherein they stood,

and sunny glade amid the wood,

in the

It

fair

village.

midst an aged banian grew.

was a goodly

sight to see

That venerable

tree;

For o'er the lawn, irregularly spread

Fifty straight

x\nd

many

columns propt

a long

Seeking

its

lofty

depending shoot,

to strike its root.

head;

his

faithful

plummet grew towards

Straight, like a

Some on

the ground.

the lower boughs which cross'd their way.

Fixing their bearded fibres round and round,

With many

Some

a ring

and wild contortion wound

wind

to the passing

Of gentle

with sway

at times,

motion swung

Others of deeper growth, unmov'd, were hung

Like stone-drops from the cavern's fretted height.

Beneath was

Nor weeds nor

And

deform'd the natural floor

briars

through the leafy cope which bower'd

Came
So

and smooth to sight,

fair

like a

gleams of chequer'd

temple did

pious heart's

first

A brook with

easy current
so cool

murmur'd near;

and

clear,

humble

well,

to the

cocoa-grove beside

tanks of costliest masonry dispense

To

those in towns

The work of kings

Fed by perpetual
Pellucid, deep,

And

they, with sacrifice of rural pride,

Have wedded
Nor

seem, that there,

peasants drink not from the

Which

o*er

it

light.

impulse would be prayer

Water

The

it

Glowing

dwell,

in their beneficence.

springs, a small lagoon,

and

still,

in silence join'd

swell'd the passing stream.

it

who

Like burnish'd

beneath the eye of noon

lay,

And when

steel

the breezes in their play,

Ruffled the darkening surface, then, with gleam

Of sudden
It rippl'd,

The

light,

around the lotus stem

and the sacred flowers

that

crown

lakelet with their roseate beauty, ride,

In gentlest waving, rock'd, from side

And

as the

to side;

wind upheaves

Their broad and buoyant weight, the glossy leaves

Flap on the twinkling waters, up and down.

65
There, from the intolerable heat,

The
Only

buffaloes retreat;

their nostrils rais'd to

Amid the
The

meet the

air,

sheltering element they rest.

market-flag, which hoisted high,

From

and nigh,

far

Above yon cocoa-grove

Loud sounds

drum

the village

seen,

is

Hangs motionless amid the

sultry sky.

a happy crowd

Is there.

Behold Ladurlad's home,

By yonder

peepal-tree o'ershaded

There Marriataly's image

And

there the garland twin'd

Around

its

The peacocks
Quick from

And

brow hath

the leafy thatch alight,

glancing necks from side to side.

Their daily dole, which

Now all
Evening comes on

Homeward

the

scarlet

maid supplied,

too long denied.

from the stream,

flamingo wings his flight

sails

athwart the setting beam,

at the wish'd

Gladly forsakes the

field,

light.

approach of night,

where he

the svinged plunderers from

all

day,

their prey,

shout and sling, on yonder clay-built height,

Hath borne the

Hark

at the sacred

The brahmin

III.

hand

plumage glows with deeper

The watchman,

To scare

his

erst the

arising

tall

And where he

VOL.

faded.

at their master's sight,

Expecting from

With

stands,

by Kailyal's hands

hurry round, and search the ground,

And veer their

His

sultry ray.

Hindoo fane

strikes the

hour

66
For leagues and leagues around, the brazen sound
Uolls through the stillness of departing day.

Like thunder

The

far

away

stanzas are accurately descriptive of the superior order of

The

villages in Hindostan.

natural history of the banian-tree

is

equally just and poetical with Milton's admired lines on the ficus
Indica, and
those

The

more copious.

description of the lotus transports

who have been accustomed

to that beautiful flower

calm and peaceful scenery of a Hindoo

lake,

to the

and awakens a thou-

sand pleasing recollections.

Ampliat
Vivere

They

aetatis

spatium

bis, vita

posse priore

In such a tranquil scene

had

of

stretch the limits

And, by enjoying,

ling marquee

slbi vir

a fly or

this

bonus, hoc est

Mart.

frui.

narrow span,

live past life again.

we usually pitched our tents. Our travel-

awning, which being a few feet above the

roof of the tent, and spreading some distance around, kept

it

cool, and

afforded a sort of veranda to shade our servants, in a deficiency of

To

trees.

render

it

more

prevalent in April and

effectually cool

May,

instead of the usual purdahs, or hang-

ings of cotton before the entrance,

matted
it.

during the hot winds

we placed

grass, especially the fragrant cusa,

tatties, or

when we could procure

These being kept constantly watered, the passing

and the
I

screens of

air

was cooled,

interior of the tent rendered very comfortable.

have already observed, we were obliged

and every necessary comfort

that invaluable

to travel with beds

our views never extended beyond

word; a word but

little

known out of an English

67
vocabulary, although

luxury of an Asiatic encampment often

tlie

equals that of the most refined

ple

Our cooking was

cities.

the fowl being frequently roasted on a

wooden

very sim-

supported

spit,

by two branches from the nearest tree boiled meat, vegetables, rice,
;

and curry, were dressed

and placed over

earthen pots supplied by the village,

in

made between

little fires

sods, or in holes in the

In such rural encampments our provisions were

earth.

ger of being taken by the natives,

who would

in

not have tasted the

greatest dainties. It was not so easy to guard against the

who

slily

purloined bread,

and country

fruit,

no dan-

monkeys,

beer, a liquor

made

with English porter, palm-wine, and water, of which those animals

We

are extremely fond.

my

in the

had

a bolder and more ravenous ene-

still

hawks and brahminee

kites,

constantly hovering near,

ready to dart on a roasted fowl, or quarter of kid, while actually

carrying by the servants from the temporary kitchen to the dining

There are vultures

tent.

Bombay, where
away every

some, especially

the Indian towns

They

offal.

to

all

They

travellers.

We

left

as at

in

many

villages

abound,

and trouble-

are called pariar-dogs, have

subsist

They frequently hunt

which they resemble

and

are numerous, noisy,

no respective owner, generally

destroyed.

common

the parsee sepulchres are their great attraction

but the dogs, with which

clear

Guzerat, but not so

in

upon

in large

charity,

and are never

packs like the jackals,

other respects.

our umbrageous dormitory near Corelli at an early hour

the next morning, and immediately descended the banks of the

Mahi

at the pass of that

name.

The bed of

the river

is

six miles

broad, although the stream, even at spring-tides, does not exceed

two

but during the floods from the

Malwa mountains, where

this

68
river rises,

swells to a great height,

it

impetuously

to the

Cambay

fills

the channel, and rushes

When wc

gulf.

crossed

towards

it,

the end of the fair season, the ford was so shallow that loaded carts

passed over without danger.

Captain Wilford justly remarks, that the geography of Ptole-

my,

in this part of India,

is

distorted to an astonishing degree

besides other mistakes, he supposes the river

bow, and
is

made

form an

to

for,

el-

Narmada, or Nerbudda, with which

to run close to the

communicate through a

to

Mahi

short canal,

and then

The Mahi

it

after-

wards

to fall

river,

and the daughter of the earth (Mahi), and of the sweat

into the gulf of Cantha.

a celebrated

is

(ushna), that ran copiously from the body of Indradyumna, king of

Ujjayini

the west.

and famous

in the legends relating to the white island in

Ptolemy's sardonyx mountains are doubtless the Cop-

perwange, or Cubburpunj

and

famous

hills, still

the sprig-stones generally called

nelians are brought from Rajpipla

mocha

for cornelians, agates,

stones.

the art of cutting

ing these stones seems to be exclusively confined to

It

occupied two hours

to

The

cross the

best cor-

and polish-

Cambay.

bed of the Mahi.

We

reached the northern bank at the well-known pass of Dewan, a

narrow

defile

between steep banks

thirty feet high,

only one cart can proceed at a time.

were met

among

in

The

principal rajah of these refractory tribes

Ometah, the chief

miles to the east of

fastnesses

leaving this defile Ave

a friendly manner by Jeejabhy, a famous chieftain

the coolies.

resides at

On

through which

Dewan.

fortress

of the

coolies,

These people maintaining

an armed independence, deem

bers and plunderers of all

Mahi

whom

it

a few

in their

no-disgrace to be rob-

they can master, that venture to

69
travel without their escort.

whom

small bodies of Coolies are frequently enter-

tained as occasional escorts and safeguards.

friendly terms with the
travel with

over

and makes them respected by the surrounding

their neighbours,

governments, by

many advantages

This gives them

English, but

They were then on

we thought

necessary to

it

an escort of five-and-twenty native cavalry, and a de-

tachment of Arab and Scindian infantry, armed with matchlocks,

to

prevent either plunder or insults from the Coolies and Cotlies,

another tribe of freebooters inhabiting the country of Cottj'awar,

further to the north-west.

They

in troops, to lay travellers

drive

oft"

are always well

mounted and roam

under contribution, rob

villages,

and

the cattle.

Robbery and plunder being the general pursuit of these people,

I

was surprised

tion

to see the Coolie districts

their villages

under excellent cultiva-

were large and populous, the

by hedges, planted with mango and tamarind

without molestation through
ing the
soil

Cambay purgunna

was equally

rich,

this delightful

fields

enclosed

We

travelled

trees.

country, but on enter-

every thing wore a different aspect; the

though by no means so well cultivated

nor

were the villages half inhabited. The Nabob's government, pressed

by the wants of Mogul ostentation, was too oppressive

for the in-

crease of population, or encouragement of agriculture.

"
"

In vain kind seasons swell the teeming grain,

Soft showers

distil,

" The swain with

" And

Under
vantage of

and suns grow

famish'd, dies, amidst his ripen'd

bunder or

in vain

tears his frustrate labour yields,

a mild government, the

its

warm

port,

is

fields.

Cambay purgunna,

Pope,

with the ad-

capable of being rendered equal to

70
any

Hindostan.

in

lis light

every thing committed

to its

and

fertile soil yields

a rich return of

bosom, and great quantities of coarse

coloured cottons are manufactured in the city, and exported for

the African markets.

few miles from

with groves,
plain.

commanding

mention

rat province there

or the

Cambay we

this
is

The

but afford

rich

little

covered

circumstance, because in the whole Guze-

seldom a

rising
it

ground

to the west of

Powagur,

from the interior parts of Hin-

prospects in this country delight the traveller,

The heavy roads retarded

variety for description.

Cambay

our arrival at

hills,

view of the surrounding

a delightful

mountains which separate

dostan.

passed over gentle

in that light

preferable for a journey

sandy

the sands then

soil

become

the rainy season

solid,

and the

is

rains

are not so violent as in the southern latitudes.

In the tract of country through which

we had now

travelled,

we

observed several neat modern temples at the Hindoo villages, similar to

those in

other parts of Guzerat.

There are also scattered

remains of ancient and magnificent structures, both Hindoo and

Mahomedan

stone, indicated

handsome

wells

and extensive tanks lined with

the former wealth of the country.

The

villa o-e

temples as usual were near a grove or burr-tree, and where there

was no temple the ryots were content

sacrifice

seems

to

to join

and prayer under these verdant

be a general object of worship

their

fanes.

among

brahmin

in

The Ling am

the villagers; the

image of Ganeish, or Ganeasa, the god of wisdom, denoted by

the elephant's head, the symbol of sagacity,

is

the trunk of the banian tree; as

BnAVANi,or JBowan-

nee, the goddess of fecundity.

is

also that of

often placed against

71
I

expected

because

in the essays

that in the

more remains of antiquity

to find

fifth

these districts,

in

on the Sacred Isles of the West, we are informed

century of the christian era, Cambat, or Cambay,

was " the metropolis of the Bala-rayas, and perhaps of the emperors of the

west

also,

when

these two dignities

united in the same person; and

of

Tamra-Sena,

name from
copper.

the

but,

if I

domes and

was also the place of residence

is

may

supposed

my

offer

to

have been entirely

opinion,

received

it

close to the sacred pool.

spoken

dialects,

it

was

and Cambat was a famous place of wor-

ship, called in the puranas Shambhast'ha-Tirt'ha, from a

in the

its

spires of the temples being covered with

This city was near Cambat, but tradition says that

swallowed up by the sea

column

to be

so called from his metropolis, Tamra-pura, signi-

fying the Copper-city, which

built of that metal

it

happened

Now

and from cambasta

a column
is

derived

is

its

shambha or

called camba

present

name

Shambhast'ha and Tamra-pura are called Asia and

of Cambat.

Trapera, by the author of the Periplus; but

Ptolemy,

considering

these two places as one only, for they were close to each other,
calls it Asiacarnpra, or

Astacapra; and instead oiTamra, which

copper, he writes Campra, or Capra.

nifies

The reason why he has

carried this place so far inland, on the banks of the

either

Mahi

is,

that

he or some other writer misunderstood the natives, who have

no word
stead of

for a
it,

bay or gulph, and use generally the word

particularly

when

gulph, as in the present case.

that

sig-

there

is

river in-

one at the bottom of the

Osorio, a Portugueze

when Francis D'Almeida landed near Cambat,

writer, says
in the

year

1519, he saw the ruins of sumptuous buildings and temples, the

remains of an ancient city

the history of which was connected

72
Such

with that of a foreign prince.

ruins are said to exist to this

not close to Cambat, but at a place called Cavi, or Cavi-gaw,

clay,

of Cambat, where are temples and other buildings, with

to the south

statues half buried in

the sands, by which

place was over-

this

whelmed."
I

saw nothing of the column above-mentioned, which desig-

nated the

mer
is

name
we

times, as

of Cambat, but such were not

from the

find

pillar at Delhi, still

in for-

remaining, which

generally, although improperly, called the pillar of Feeroze Shah.

It consists of

and

now

is

rounds

it.

a single stone of a reddish colour, tapering upwards,

thirty-seven feet above

It

is

name

roze Shah, whose

must have been erected

lier

the hunting palace that sur-

said that only one-third of this

the rest being buried under ground

in

uncommon

is

as

column

and concealed by

now attached

to .this

period, reigned at Delhi between the years 1351

which he died,

at the

Ferishtu's history shews

peaceful monarch

Shah was by

He

peace.

"

age of ninety.

visible,

Fee-

ruins.

pillar,

some Hindoo monument

is

at a

though

much

ear-

and 1388 A. D.

part of his character in

what may be done by a benevolent and

Though no

great warrior in the

field,

his excellent qualities well calculated for

Feeroz

a reign of

reigned thirty-eight years and nine months, and

many memorials

it

of his magnificence in the land.

He

left

built fifty

great sluices, forty mosques, thirty schools, twenty caravansaries,

an hundred palaces,

five hospitals,

ten spires, one hundred and

the pleasure-gardens he
It

is

an hundred tombs, ten baths,

fifty wells,

one hundred bridges, and

made were without number."

probable the column which gave

sembled the Lat, or

pillar

its

of Feroze-Shah.

name

to

Cam bay

re-

The remains may be

73
extant

among

the other ruins of ancient buildings in the environs

The juma-musjed,

of the modern city.

or grand

mosque

Cam-

at

bay, was, as I have formerly remarked, a Hindoo temple of great

antiquity before

it

was dedicated by the mahomedans

Shawuk pagoda, and many

Hindoo

other

The antiquity of the Hindoos

cient date.

of matter, and embraces so

many

baya without

recollecting they

bear a very an-

it is

a very

difficult

travel over the plains of

Cam-

had employed the pens of Arrian

and Ptolemy many ages past?

will

Alia,

involves such a variety

objects, that

and yet who could

field to enter

edifices

to

And,

not already

if

proved,

it

most probably soon be discovered, that there has been a very

ancient communication between Hindostan

Should

be ascertained that the

it

the West, in

result of

This

Hindoo

the

latter is

pu?'or,as, it is

and Great Britain.

one of the Sacred

Isles

of

impossible to calculate the

such researches.
is

a subject too deep for

my

investigation,

but has been

ably taken up in the Asiatic researches, by Captain Wilford, whose

learned Essays tend to prove, that " the sacred

which Sweta-dwipa, or the White Island,

most famous, are

isles in

the west, of

the principal,

is

in fact the holy land of the

Hindoos.

and the

There, the

fundamental and mysterious transactions of the history of their

ligion in

its rise

and progress took place.

holy land in the west,

and mythology,

is

The White

Island, this

so intimately connected with their religion

that they cannot be separated

vines in India are necessarily acquainted with

mans with Arabia/'

re-

it,

and of course,

di-

as distant Mussel-

This, says Captain Wilford, " I conceive

lo

be a most favourable circumstance, as in the present case the

learned have

VOL. III.

little

more

to

do than
L

to ascertain

whether the While

74
Island be England, and the Sacred Isles of the Hindoos the British isles.

After having maturely considered the subject,

they are."

To

may be added

this

Jones's third discourse delivered

"

Of

the conclusion of Sir William

the Asiatic Society in 1786.

these cursory observations on the

require volumes to
the}'

to

expand and

had an immemorial

think

Hindoos, which

illustrate, this is

it

would

the result: that

affinity with the old Persians,

Ethiopians,

and Egyptians; the Phenicians, Greeks, and Tuscans; the Scythians or Goths,

Whence,

as

and

Celts; the Chinese, Japanese,

no reason appears

and Peruvians.

for believing that they

were a colony

from any one of those nations, or any of those nations from them,

we may fairly conclude they

try, to investigate

It

which

will

my

be

future object."

has been observed by careful investigators, that there

great resemblance between

old feasts in England.
val of

proceeded from some central coun-

all

many

of the Hindoo festivals and the

Colonel Pearse remarks, that on the

Bhawanee, which answers

is

to

our May-day, the

festi-

Gopas and

all

other herdsmen frequent the gardens on that day, erect a pile

in

the

fields,

and adorn

with pendants and

it

garlands.

Mr.

Paterson, on the origin of the Hindoo religion, in describing the

festival

of the Hooli, compares

it

with the Hilaria of the

Romans,

celebrated at the vernal equinox in honour of the mother of the

gods.

" It was a festival which was continued for several days,

with great display of

pomp and

rejoicing.

It

began the eighth day

before the calends of April, or the 25th of March.

Cybele was carried about

assumed

to

in procession,

The

statue of

and the attending crowds

themselves whatever rank, character, or dress, their

fancy led them to prefer.

It

was a kind of masquerade,

full

of

75
mirth and

In

frolic.

fact,

was the Earth, under the name of

it

Cybele, which was worshipped at the

commencement of that

genial

season, Avhen she receives from the sun those vivifying rays which

are so adapted to the production of fruits

and

ceremony be compared with the Hindoo celebration of

at the

same period of the

given

to

the spring

soms which nature,

by

as

it

the

much

is

the Hooli,

constantly

poets, in allusion to the blos-

The Hindoos

design the same idea in

powder Abir, which they throw about

the purple

sportive pleasantry.

Hindoos are the earth and

all

Roman

epithet of purple

this

were in sport, scatters over the earth with

such variety and profusion.

with so

The

year.

Let

flowers.

fire

The

at each other

objects of worship with the

that genial

warmth which pervades

The

nature at that period of the year.

licentiousness of the

songs and dances at this season was intended to express the effects

of that warmth on

The Hindoos have

animated objects.

all

like-

wise their masquerading processions, in which gods and goddesses,

rajahs

and ranees, are represented

and the ceremonies are con-

cluded by burning the past or deceased year, and welcoming the

renovation of nature."

During the
vade every

festival

of the Hooli,

class of society,

when

hilarity

and mirth per-

one subject of diversion

is

to

send

people on errands and expeditions that are to end in disappoint-

ment, and
is

raise

a laugh at the expense of the person sent.

very similar to the

first

day of April

in

always in the month of March, and the

The Hooli

England.
last

day

This

is

is

the greatest

holiday.

The Hindoo

festival

of Vastu Puja, on the day

prietors of land worship the earth

and

fire,

is

when

the pro-

similar to that of

76
The Romans worshipped

Vesta at Ptome.

under the symbols of earth and

The former

Siva do the same.

my

letters

scribed the

sects of

an oblalion of

a sheep to their respective

ers, the latter sacrifice

In

The

fire.

offer

the goddess of nature,

Dhuboy and Chandode

from

Visnoo and

fruit

and flow-

deities.

have so

fully de-

Hindoo temples and customs of the brahmins,

would be superfluous

to

that

add any thing further upon those subjects.

it

have not entered into many particular ceremonies of the Hindoo worSeveral of their

ship at their respective temples.

known

Europeans, and according

to

surd and

I will

trifling.

to

rites

are very

little

our judgment appear ab-

give only a single specimen from the

tedious ceremonials with which their ritual abounds, selected from

Mr. Colebrooke's

religious ceremonies of the Hindoos, but without

attempting to detail the Avhole ceremony.

will think this

"

specimen amply

brahmana arising from

of losing the benefit of

sufficient.

sleep,

all rites

Indeed most readers

is

enjoined, under the penalty

performed by him, to rub

with a proper withe, or a twig of the racemiferous

nouncing

his teeth

fig-tree,

to himself this prayer, " Attend, lord of the forest;

pro-

Sama,

king of herbs and plants has approached thee: mayest thou and

he cleanse

my mouth

abundant food!"
lutions,
it,

and

sits

crown of

down

to

his

follows a long account of bathing

finished he puts

on

eat

and ab-

his mantle, after washing-

is

begun by

his tying the lock

of hair on the

head, while he recites the Gaijatri, holding

left,

may

worship the rising sun.

ceremony

grass in his
;

Then

which having

" This

hand

with glory and good auspices, that I

and

three blades of the

or wearing a ring of grass

same

much

ciisa

grass in his right

on the third finger of the same

77
hand.

Thrice sipping water with the same text, preceded by the

same mysterious name of worlds, and each time rubbing

as if washing

them; and

finally

his

hands

touching with his wet hand his feet 7

head, breast, eyes, ears, nose, and navel or his breast, navel, and both
;

shoulders; only (according to another rule) he should again sip water

three times, pronouncing to himself the expiatory text which recites
If he

the creation.

sip water, but

maxim, "
tine

happen

first

to

sneeze or spit,he must not immediately

touch his right ear, in compliance with the

after sneezing, spitting,

on apparel, or dropping

sip water, but

first

touch

tears,

blowing
a

man

of brahmanas.
nostrils, at the

Ganga

is

should not immediately

" Fire," says

his right ear."

" water, the Vedas, the sun, moon, and

his nose, sleeping, put-

air, all

Parasara,

reside in the right ear

in their right ears, sacrificial fire in their

moment when both

are touched impurity vanishes."

This will explain the practice of suspending the end of the sacerdotal string over the right ear, to purify that string from the defile-

ment which
is

follows. an evacuation of urine.

a requisite introduction of

Parana,

all

all

rites;

acts of religion are vain.

The sipping of water

without

it,

Having

water as abovementioned, and passed his hand

briskly round his

says the Samba

therefore sipped
filled

with water

neck, while he recites this prayer, "

May

the

waters preserve me!" the priest closes his eyes, and meditates in
silence, figuring to himself that

Brahma,

with four faces and a red

complexion, resides in his navel; Vishnu, with four arms and a

black complexion, in his heart; and Siva, with
white complexion, in his forehead.

The

five faces

and a

priest afterwards meditates

the holiest of texts during three suppressions of breath.

Closing

the left nostril with the two longest fingers of his right hand, he

78

nostril likewise

that

While he holds

his breath,

he must

occasion repeat to himself the Gayatri, with the mysterious

the worlds, the triliteral

names of
text of

and then closing

with his thumb, holds his breath while he meditates

had suppressed.

the breath he
this

nostril,

then raises both fingers off the left nostril, and emits

He

the text.

on

through the right

his breath

draws

Beahme.

monosyllable, and the sacred

suppression of breath so explained by the

ancient legislator, Yaj'mjzcalcya, consequently implies the following

Om!

meditation:
births!

heaven!

middle region! place of

mansion of the blessed! abode of truth!"

am

earth! sky!

cautious in

drawing conclusions, or putting a decided

they

may

and many of

their

construction on the religious ceremonies of the Hindoos

be more or

less

mystical than I

am aware

of,

customs have possibly a different meaning from that which a superficial

observer supposes.

circumstance which occurred at Dhu-

my principle of not forming hasty decisions on dubiWhen I had been there two years, a rumour presubjects.

boy confirms
ous

vailed that I worshipped the devil, or at least that I performed

ceremonies, and paid some kind of adoration to the destructive

On

power.

appeared

to

of the place,

tracing this extraordinary supposition to

by

who had

On

his

Dhuboy, where

my

not been conversant with Europeans.

Goddard being engaged

Futty Sihng, paid him a

his staff officers

army.

source,

it

have originated with some of my own servants, natives

that time General

lion with

its

a political negocia-

at Brodera,

accompanied

and a considerable detachment from the Bengal

march
I

visit

in

About

to

Brodera he favoured

me

with a

entertained him a few days in the best

retired situation permitted.

We

generally sat

down

visit at

manner

sixteen at

79
table

as there are

no turkeys

in

Guzerat, young pea-fowl were an

and often made a principal

excellent substitute,

and other parts of the pea-fowl,

as

is

The

dish.

gizzard

frequently practised with the

turkey, were sent from table to be broiled and seasoned with

pepper, and kian

salt,

meat was returned

thus improved, the savoury

hot to table with the additional appellation of the devil; each guest

took a small piece

occasions,

to relish

a glass of wine, as customary on such

and possibly some cheerful

round.

The novelty of

servants,

who were

this

ceremony

strangers to our

was given, and passed

toast
in

presence of

my Dhuboy

manners and customs, who

nei-

ther understood the English language, nor asked for information

from those who did, caused them

an innocent practice; and
enrolled
I

among

have introduced

superficial

this trifling

maybe

In describing

scene of desolation!
his subjects

government.

for sanctity

we were

anecdote as an instance of what

formed, and false conclusions drawn,

among whom they

Cambay

Guzerat, I deplored

and

renowned

observers on their travels, especially

of the language of those

in

in a city

the worshippers of the devil!

a wrong judgment

by

put a wrong construction upon

to

its

when ignorant

sojourn.

six years before,

during the campaign

ruinous condition;

it

The Nabob had continued

now

presented a

his

oppressions,

sought for protection and comfort under a milder

Unmindful of

the happiness of his people or the in-

terest of his successor, the chief study of

Mohman Caun

was

to

procure money for the gratification of sensual pleasure, and the

maintenance of the shadow of a Mogul court.

quiring

it

gave him no concern.

Thus

The means of

his sovereignty

ac-

comprised

only a dilapidated capital, deserted villages, and a few impove-

80
rished subjects, who, notwithstanding his

attached to their native

nothing to hope

soil.

Under such

still

a government there

is

emigration can alone relieve the burden; but

for;

the measure of oppression must be

dii-penales,

iron sceptre, were

and the

local joys of

full

home

ere

we

bid adieu to our

pleasures which

memory

loves to cherish.

From

no appeal;

tyranny knows no control: pathetically does a

pious

their

monarch lament

that are

these independent petty sovereigns there

is

their fate! " I considered all the oppressions

done under the sun, and beheld the

of such as were

tears

oppressed, and they had no comforter! and on the side of their

oppressors there was power, but they had no comforter!"

When Akber

meanest subject, and

petition of the

piness of his extensive empire.

overshadowed the soubah, and

most distant purgunna

Asia; but dreadful

despot.

in

may
is

to the

time dedicated to the hap-

his

Under

monarch

that Avise

there

without redress; justice and clemency

could be no oppression

absolute monarchy

was open

the imperial throne, his ear

filled

his outstretched

his vast

domain.

be deemed a

arms protected the

In such an instance
particularly in

blessing,

unrestrained power in the hands of a cruel

For one Akber, Antoninus, or Trajan, how multiplied

is

the character of Nero, Tiberius, and Aurungzebe!

However
jects, the

tyrannical

He

immediately sent one of

compliments and congratulations on our

and presently

after

maun, the naib, or

sian

his

unfortunate sub-

nabob of Cambay was esteemed one of the

reigns in India.
his

and oppressive over

noblemen.

we

received a

vizier,

On

visit

his

politest sove-

chopdars with

arrival at his capital,

from Mirza

Mahomed Zu-

accompanied by several moguls and Per-

the following evening Mirza

Zumaun

invited

81
us to an elegant supper, served
received us at the outer gale,

garden to the

flat root'

in the true Persian style.

He

and conducted us through a small

of the house, where we were introduced to

and moguls of

several Persians

up

Here we enjoyed the

distinction.

evening breeze and a moonlight view of the gardens, and were

amused by successive
to

any

had then seen

It is well

known

in India.

that the Asiatics of either sex of

among

the Hindoos,

any respecta-

Throughout Hindostan, whether

never dance themselves.

bility

and musicians, superior

sets of dancing-girls

Mahomedans,

or Parsees, the master of a feast

sends for the public dancing-girls and musicians to entertain his

guests

for himself, his family, or his

company

to

do

either

would

be quite inconsistent with propriety, and the gravity of character

they generally preserve.

Amidst the general joy on the annual

opening of the aqueduct at Dhuboy,

rural

dance by other females, but

very rare; in the lower

it

observation.

to his wife or

is

have mentioned a sort of

may be more common, although it has escaped

An Indian of respectability could never consent

classes of society

my

this

daughter dancing

in public,

nor can they reconcile

the English country-dances to their ideas of female delicacy.

remember an amiable Hindoo

Bombay

at

being taken to a ve-

randa overlooking the assembly-room, where a number of ladies

and gentlemen were going down a country dance

asking

how he

" Master,

say

'

if

liked the

on

his

conductor

amusement, the mild Indian

replied,

not quite understand this business, but in our caste

we

butter will melt."

we place

have thought of

butter too near the

this

Hindoo when present

waltzing in France and Germany.

VOL. III.

fire,

at

some particular

&2
During the entertainment of

women"
fruits,

the " singing

and

of the coffee and sherbets,

salted almonds, to

made from

different fruits, presented in profusion

singing-

frequently brought dried

at the vizier's, the attendants

pistachio-nuls,

men and

improve the flavour

and

the juice of falsee, limes,

and

Other servants

variety.

stood near with punkahs and chouries, to cause a vibration in the

air,

and keep

off the insects.

denomination of
sort of long

fans,

The former may go under

however modified

The

in shape.

pendant brush, composed of

the general
latter are

different materials;

some-

times of peacock's feathers, or the beautiful plumage of the bird of

paradise;

some are of cusa

Those most esteemed

from the

tail

grass, or the leaves of the

for elegance

of the katass cow.

and

palmyra

utility united, are

This animal

is

tree.

formed

a native of Thibet,

Cachimere, and some of the northern provinces of Hindostan. The

beauty of these
silkiness,

tails,

or chouries, depends

and length of the

hair,

which

is

upon

not taken off the

remains on the stump, set in a handle of gold,

Thus luxuriously
nargills,

kept up a

seated, the Persians

lively conversation,

the whiteness,

smoked

silver,

tail,

but

or enamel.

their culleons

and displayed some

and

taste in

music, poetry, and painting.

At

ten o'clock

we descended from

the terrace to the saloon pre-

pared for supper, which was covered with rich carpets, cushions,

and pillows of various kinds, illuminated from cut-glass chandeliers,

and ornamented with Persian paintings, representing the

youths and damsels of Iran in voluptuous indulgence, amid a profusion of fruit, flowers, ices,

only by

pillars,

and perfumes.

opened on every side

This room, supported

to a flower

garden of

roses,

jasmin, mogrees, and double tuberoses, with pomegranates and

83
surrounding small canals and fountains playing with

taller plants,

The English gentlemen were

seated at a table in

the upper part of the saloon, covered in the

European manner.

delightful effect.

The

other guests, according to oriental custom, were placed in two

rows on the carpet, and the supper served between them on a small

The

elevation.

repast consisted of great variety, in pilaus, curries,

composed

kebats, and other savoury dishes,

mixed with

rice,

which

is

Some

extremely curious, and were the

The

fowl, kid, poultry,

tated in

of

my

rice, in

by the higher

the principal grain eaten

ranks throughout Hindostan.

entertainment.

intended to be

of, or

vizier

asked

had seen

first I

me

at

any

oriental

to partake of venison, pea-

and game. Not seeing any on the

choice,

me

of the pilaus appeared to

and was then informed that the

table, I hesi-

different dishes

various colours, were flavoured with the gravy, or rather

essence of

all

those diversities.

An

antelope, two or three pea-

cocks, or a dozen partridges, were stewed

to flavour as

many

down into a

strong gravy,

dishes of rice, Avhich having sufficiently imbibed

the essence of the animals, were placed before the

fire until

grain was separate, and then served on the table.

ofTered to the guests were only water

The

and a variety of

every

liquors

sherbets.

Neither the Persians nor Moguls, in defiance of the precepts of the

koran, often object to wine or

much

stronger liquors in private.

Cambay at this time contained several noble Persian families,

who left their country fifty years before, after Shah Hussein had
been murdered by Meer Mahmud, and the Afghans usurped the
sovereignty; of others

years afterwards,

who abandoned

when Nadir Shah

that

unhappy kingdom some

seized the throne, and destroyed

the royal line of Seffies; and of several

more who accompanied

that

84
usurper

in his

march

settle in various parts

and

to Delhi,

of the

left

him

Mogul empire

after the

conquest to

with their share of the

plunder.

The wealthy Persian emigrants

pearls,

diamonds, and other jewels

to a large

them

bring with

generally

amount.

Tliey

lie in

a small compass, and are the most certain means of securing a

competency

a foreign country.

in

precious stones at

tended for

shaped

Cambay, belonging

to a Persian

me

at twenty-five thousand

the

the

in-

water,

first

The

pounds.

proprietor

of a diamond then in the royal treasury at Ispahan,

which weighed two hundred and sixty-four

carats,

hundred and twenty thousand pounds.

at four

nobleman,

a prism, weighing an hundred and seventeen carats,

and estimated
informed

saw a valuable assortment of

among them was a diamond of

sale;

like

same stone mentioned by Tavernier,

and was valued

This

is

probably

at that time in possession

oftheMogul emperor, which weighed two hundred and seventy-nine

carats,

and

its

variation in the weight

and price

in

gem of such magnitude, may

be easily allowed between a Persian and European

imperial

diamond

is

a brilliant of beautiful shape, called by

where

Sinai, in Arabia,

diamond of a

This

traveller.

of eminence Kooi Toor, " the Hill of Lustre," alluding to

ther

The

value was estimated at half a million sterling.

flat

God

appeared

in glory to

Moses.

way

Mount
Ano-

surface, nearly as valuable as the former,

denominated Doriainoor, " the

Ocean of Lustre."

is

These magnifi-

cent jewels formed part of Nadir Shah's plunder at Delhi in 1739;

when

the riches he carried off exceeded seventy millions sterling.

The most superb

article of this imperial spoil

or peacock-throne, in which the

expanded

was the Tucht-Taooz,

tail

of the peacock, in

85
its

natural size, was imitated in jewellery,

composed of

costly diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, topazes,

thysts,

producing a wonderful

ten crore of rupees,

assassination of

this

and ame-

This throne was valued at

effect.

upwards of twelve millions

Nadir Shah

the most

sterling.

After the

plunder was transported into vari-

ous countries, and since the late revolutions in Persia has been

more widely dispersed.

Jewels have been always held

in

high estimation; sacred and

profane writers extol their beauty and value; the Romans, under
their

luxurious emperors, carried this extravagant superfluity to

the utmost prodigality.

have been in so

much

Diamonds with them do not appear

request as pearls, of which they possessed

some immensely valuable: one, presented by Julius Caesar

vilia,

the mother of Brutus, cost

The

sterling.

at

to

him

forty-eight thousand

to Ser-

pounds

celebrated pearl ear-rings of Cleopatra were valued

one hundred and sixty thousand pounds.

In the oppressed and impoverished city of Cambay, at the time

I last

saw

it,

was no demand

there

for jewels,

commodity; they were generally sent

where they found a ready

mond

freighted, with a

chors.
walls,

Cambay

at Surat bar,

Bombay,

lost

in

vessels,

in

prismatic dia-

which

was

it

foundered at their an-

former times, when the sea flowed near

was the grand emporium of Guzerat, and the

chants from every quarter of the globe.

English monarch

or China,

a dreadful storm a few

where the ship

number of other
in

to Sural,

The magnificent

sale.

have just mentioned, was

months afterwards

nor any other valuable

who encouraged

Queen

resort of

its

mer-

Elizabeth, the

first

the Indian trade, sent out three

persons in 1583, with letters to the sovereigns of China and

Cam-

86
This implies that the latter was at that time a place of great

bay.

commercial notoriety. In the year lb'OO

the

charter to the East India

first

this

wise monarch granted

Company, by which they became

the exclusive traders to the East Indies, with a capital of seventy-

two thousand pounds.

very few years after

Queen

Elizabeth's embassy, Caesar Ere-

dericke, a merchant of Venice, visited this country,

which were printed

travels,

in

London

writer thus describes the trade of

go

thither

Cambay: " No

in smail barks,

which can

sail in all

principal city in

it is

a very great city, and very populous

it

is

Cambaia

Cambay

small barks

is

is

called

and

also a very fair city,

is;

come

in

for in the

or

Ahmadabad;

for a city of the

and

time of every new and

and go out, laden with

if I

had not

all sorts

full

moon

the

of spices, with

of China, with sandal, with elephants' teeth, velvets of Vercini,

great quantity of pannina, which

nos,

great ships can

could not have believed that there should have been such

a trade as there

silk

entertaining

very well made, and builded with fair houses, and

large streets.
it

his

parts of the gulph.

Amadaur,

The

seen

this

in

by reason of the shallowness of the water, but they carry

on the trade

gentiles

1598,

in

and

cometh from Mecca, with chicki-

which be pieces of gold worth seven

and with divers

out an

infinite

sorts of other

merchandize.

shillings,

with money,

Also these barks lade

quantity of cloth stamped and painted, with a great

deal of indigo, dried ginger, and conserved myrabolans dry and

candied, boraso in paste, great store of sugar, great quantity of

cotton,

abundance of opium,

sorts of drugs; turbants

asafcetida, puchio,

made

lians, granites, agates, diaspry,

in

and many other

Diu, great stones like to corne-

calcedony, hematist, and some other

87
During the time

kind of natural diamonds.

saw many marvellous things; and

I dwelt in

that time the city

in

who were

gentiles, take their child; en, their sons

daughters, and have desired the Portugals to buv them

seen them sold for eight or ten lorines a-piece, which

our

money from

Cambay

was

men

great calamity and scarceness, so that I have seen the

country,

Cambay

in

of the

and

and

their

have

may be

of

ten to thirteen shillings sterling."

continued a flourishing commercial city long after the

above period; the Mogul princes who then reigned encouraged

and

agriculture, manufactures,

trade.

It

gradually declined dur-

ing the convulsions of the empire in the eighteenth century, and

Mohman Caun, the then

ruin.
He prided himself on

the cruel and oppressive govefnment of

reigning nabob, had completed

its

being an excellent Persian scholar, but I should suppose he had

never read the Tears of Khorassan, one of the most beautiful poems
in that language,

from which

have extracted a few stanzas appli-

cable to the present subject, translated by Captain VI. Kirkpatrick.

'"'

Say, dost thou

know what

wild confusion reigns

" Throughout Cambaia's desolated

" And how her

plains,

sons are drown' d in seas of tears

" Say, dost thou know, of all her ancient

" And

glorious sights that spread her

" No

trace or

mournful vestige

" Here

upstart slaves, to

" Hear

their

proud

" Command
" Here

and

in

man whose

now

appears

imperious tone,
virtues all revere

avarice scoffs at virtue in distress,

" And spurns the hand which

"

fame the most,

fame and worth unknown,

crests,

the

boast,

hard reverse! and

grateful thousands bless,

fate, too

too severe

88
" View where sage

" Of some low wretch,

" In
" Behold

Is there,

"

Whom
Is

where Ruin

and

resign'd,

to sharpest

woes.

reigns in dreadful state,

fortune smiles on, or

'Tis

whom joys

await

yonder corse descending to the tomb

there a spotless female to be found,

" Where
"
"

by heaven

anchorite,

A prey to dungeons,

"

implore

the sons of rank debauchery bind

"

"

in vain relief

vain their anguish and their wrongs disclose

" The holy

"

door

elders, prostrate at the

deeds of diabolic lust abound

'Tis

yonder infant issuing from the womb.

O thou, descended from

" By him who gave

"

Who gave,

" By him, by
" To

a noble race

the crown thy brows

to grace;

t'adorn the minted ore, thy

heaven's just King,

loose our chains,

" So

our

shall a grateful

we

painful

name

thee conjure,

wounds

to cure;

world thy praise proclaim."

Dr. Robertson has drawn a beautiful picture of an oriental

sovereign
climes.

nor can

but

I fear

I confess I
I find

the original

is

only to be found

never met with such a character in

scribes his virtuous

modern
"

monarch.

more a father presiding

dren, than a sovereign

He

solicitude;
tion,

travels;

endeavours

in a

in the

as that amiable writer thus de-

Hindoo

rajah, as

formed by persons well acquainted with the

nion.

my

one among those of more extensive research

courts of Asiatic princes,

bles

Utopian

in

have been

in-

state of India, resem-

numerous family of

his

own

chil-

ruling over inferiors, subject to his domito

secure their

happiness

with

vigilant

they are attached to him with the most tender affec-

and inviolable

fidelity/'

89
I

am sorry to

dissent from this celebrated historian,

informed persons from

whom

and the

well-

he obtained the information; but so

from being able to confirm such pleasing characteristics;

on the contrary, affirm that

must,

never met with such a pattern of

royal virtue, nor with such grateful and amiable subjects, in

intercourse

with

inhabitants

the

far

of

India.

my

That the Hindoo

Dushmanta, Vicramaditya, and other coeval

rajahs in the time of

princes, recorded in the

early

brahmin chronicles, might possess

those benevolent attributes, I do not deny.

We

have every reason

to believe those patriarchal rajahs were the fathers of their people;

but from

whom
and

his

my own

knowledge of modern Hindoo

chieftains

by

was surrounded at Dhuboy, of the Mahratta peshwa

whom

nobles with

was long encamped, of the king

whom I was acquainted,

conclusion.
I am willing to believe

of Travencore, and of other princes with

I cannot

draw so favourable a

there are exceptions: wherever I have found them,

I felt

a plea-

sure in noticing their comparative excellence, whether Hindoos

or Mahomedans.
I

have frequently mentioned the wild-beasts in Guzerat: dur-

ing our nocturnal

encampments on

who, probably actuated by

this

journey, our attendants,

their fears, preferred sleeping in the

towns, were constantly telling us of the

number and

ferocity of

the tigers in that part of Guzerat, but

we were never

molested;

although, not long before, in travelling by torch

English ladies, and a large party, from

budda, a royal
the riders, and

tiger

sprung among

killed

his

III.

with two

Dhuboy towards

the Ner-

cavalry, overthrew one of

horse by the blow.

species which I destroyed in the

VOL.

my

light,

The

last

Dhuboy purgunna was a

N

of the

leopard,

90
most beautifully spoiled; which weighed about two hundred and

pounds

fifty

and

his strength

ferocity equalled his size,

and had

long rendered him a terror to the villages near his haunts.

So great
Sabermatty

is

the dread of beasts of prey in the villages on the

at the

river,

head of the Gulph of Cambay, that the

inhabitants carefully collect

with which every village

which

all

egress

scious of the perils

cattle within the

mud

walls

encircled, at the close of day; after

is

avoided

is

their

all

and even the dogs,

instinctively con-

by which they are surrounded, keep within

the protection of the walls.

certainly dangerous to travel in the jungles, or Indian

It is

when

forests, after sun-set,

and prowl abroad

for prey:

the savage beasts leave their haunts,

but as they

dens at the

retire to their

approach of dawn, we do not often hear of accidents.

by

night,

and claim

their wild

Equally beautiful as just

"

Thou makest

the forest
ariseth,

come

Man

the evening.

and the

it is

lions roar after their prey.

Lord

how

to

manifold are thy

The sun

in

Cambay, shewed me

the

whelps, in a forest near the river Sabermatty, not

The

Persia,

some of her

many miles from

existence of lions in this part of India had been

unknown

upon

works

skin of a lioness which had been recently found with

Cambay.

his labour

all I"

Sir Charles Malet, then president at

ing

man.

night, wherein all the beasts of

goeth forth unto his work and

wisdom hast thou made them

hitherto

to

and they gather themselves together, and lay them down

in their dens.
until

domain: the day belongs

reign

that passage in the royal psalmist,

is

darkness, and
forth,

They

to

Europeans.

The northern

provinces, border-

abounded with those animals, and afforded noble

91
sport to the imperial princes in their hunting parties from Deihi

and Agra.

As

the discovery of lions in Guzerat was perfectly novel, Sir

Charles indulged
in

me

with an extract from his itinerary, when,

consequence of such an intimation, he went with a party of

Moguls and Persians

to the

to the forest of Durlee,

about twenty miles

northward of Camba}', two months before our

This

arrival.

extract presents a very interesting scene; which I shall not clothe

in

any other language than

zest

and warmth of

his

own, as

feeling, occasioned

which no correctness of

it is

written with

all

the

by immediate impressions,

style or studied expressions

can give

in

subsequent recollection.
Darke, 8th of March 1781.

"

Having

meeting with any

tigers,

killed

some

and antelopes, without

elks

we proceeded

this

morning

to Coora, in

a wilder part of the country, where we were more likely to meet

with those animals.

our game,

we saw

in

dead serpents; some

As we advanced into the wood

one of

its

thickest glooms a

the bones of various animals strewed thick

me

my

number of

entirely devoured, except their skins;

half eaten, and others apparently just killed;

expressing

in pursuit

all

we

about

of

large

some

also observed

this spot.

surprise at this appearance, the country

On

people

w as a proof of our being very near the haunt of

these savage beasts; and mutual exhortations followed to be steady

assured

it

and circumspect;
grass

in fact, in

a few paces we discovered,

and moss, the almost perfect

various sizes,

who had been

figures

in the soft

of several animals, of

reposing there; and the carnivorous

92
which then assailed

smells

and the numerous and recent

us,

impressions of the feet of beasts of prey,

doubt of the evidence which

room

us no

left

had just received of

this

to

being

gloomy residence of the savage race who had been roused by

the

our approach.
" Having watched for two nights in vain, on the third evening

we

tied lures of goats

and

places,

and

asses

under the

trees, in three different

at each of these stations three

About midnight, four animals, which

myself, watched in a tree.

we imagined

be

to

tigers,

marksmen, including

but afterwards discovered to be

lions,

having at some -distance taken a momentary survey of the goat

tied at

them

one of the

seizing

it

and the

it;

largest of

by the neck, with one shake broke the bone, and

the animal was instantly deprived of

effort to

on

posts, rushed furiously

The

life.

lion then

carry off his prey, which being purposely

strong cords he failed in the attempt.

marksmen posted with me

in the

At
tree

that instant
fired

made an

bound with
two of the

and wounded him,

but he suffered only a momentary stupefaction, for immediately

recovering, he quilted the slain goat
size instantly

marksman
by the
with

fired,

light

One

seized the goat,

and wounded him; he

of the moon,

retired.

of a smaller

when

the third

also directly retired;

we perceived

but,

that they both retreated

difficulty.

"

we

came forward and

and

On

assembling the next morning from our respective posts,

tracked the lions to some distance, by the blood; which having

at length lost, I resolved to penetrate into the depth of their haunts.

For

this

purpose

sent for the people of the nearest village,

with some difficulty prevailed upon them to shew

me

and

the place

93
of their retreat.

I then

accompanied them, with eight musketeers,

a few miles further, to an almost impenetrable jungle, or thicket,

Soon

extending for several miles.

after entering this dismal scene,

our people from different quarters gave the alarm; but nothing
appearing within shot, we proceeded further into the gloomy

which was impervious

to the sun's rays,

and so entangled with un-

derwood, that we were obliged frequently

hands and knees.

to

proceed upon our

In a short time the villagers discovered and

announced the wounded

most tremendous

forest,

roar,

lions;

and a

and we were

instantly saluted

frightful rushing

by a

through the thicket;

which, with the gleam of sabres, the shouts of the party, and the

The animals

thick darkness, formed an awful and terrific scene.

retreating,

we

followed, until

solutely impenetrable.

those places where

tion,

of

but without

my

gress

we

arrived at a part of the

Thus stopped, we

we observed

companions, endeavoured

was again impeded by a

several

shot at

the birds to appear in consterna-

I then,

effect.

fired

wood ab-

with three or four of the stoutest

to

push forwards, when our pro-

terrific

growling, at a very small

distance; but so complicated was the jungle, and so dark the at-

mosphere, that we could not see our object, nor, had we been able
to discover

our sabres:

it,

could

we

either have presented our pieces or used

thus circumstanced,

we

retired,

and

fell

upon the

expedient of collecting the buffaloes from the neighbouring

and driving them forcibly

into this fastness;

fields,

which the buffaloes

had no sooner entered than they were saluted by such a horrid

as put

them most precipitately

by the charge, changed

its

to flight,

situation;

taken immediate advantage of:

for,

roar,

and our game, roused

which was observed, and

on proceeding

to the spot,

94
which was somewhat more open, and consequently more favourable to the use of our arms, I advanced within a very

and lodged a brace of

"

My fire was

and the noise of

few paces,

balls in his heart.

seconded by a volley from the other musketeers;

was succeeded by something, which

their pieces

could neither be styled roaring nor groaning, but a frightful mix-

Not knowing

ture of both.

that our balls

moved eveiy cause of apprehension, and

symptom of expiration,

the

had

effectually

re-

that this vociferation

was

concluded that the creature was now

thoroughly enraged, and meditating vengeance; with

quitted

my

piece,

and betook myself

my

to

this idea, I

sabre; but afler a

short pause, observing the rustling in the thicket to cease,

the vociferation to

grow

animal lay; and one of

ribs

fainter, I

my

his

to the spot

where the

people having laid open three of

by the stroke of a sword,

head from

advanced

and

his

with another nearly severed his

body: and then dragging him from

retreat, I

his

hauled him, amidst the acclamations and congratulations of the

villagers, to

my

tents,

where

I arrived at

noon, having spent six

hours in rousing, pursuing, and killing our game; which in that

interval

had received three

balls, exclusive

of the

wound

inflicted

on the preceding night.

" This beast was called by the country people oontia-baug, or
camel-tiger,

and

is

by them esteemed

powerful of that race.

to

be the

firercest

and most

His colour was that of a camel, verging

yellow, but without spots or stripes;

not high in

stature,

to

but

powerfully massive, with a head and foreparts of admirable size

and

strength.

He was

killed near the village of Coora,

banks of the Saberrnatty,

fifteen coss

from Cambay.

on the

95
" Nearly five quarts of

oil

were extracted from

which the peasants of that country consider

in

rheumatic complaints, and

some other
ing the

The

disorders.

flesh,

it

oil

is

to

this animal,

be very efficacious

used externally in those and

of the lion was extracted by stew-

when cut up, with a quantity of spices:

the

meat was

and of a delicate appearance, and was eaten by the wau-

white,

who extracted the oil."

Cambay at day-break on the 2d

grees, or hunters,

We

left

of

May, and

in three

hours reached the village of Sujeutra, fifteen miles distant; where

we

pitched our tents, and spent the sultry hours in a tamarind

grove, near a spacious lake; indeed

saw, had

those valuable

all

reservoirs:

the towns

Abul

and

Fazil

villages

mentions

we
an

ancient city of Guzerat, called Beernagur, that contained three

He

hundred Hindoo temples, each of which had a tank of water.

also describes the country
at the present day,
fruit trees

gave

it

when

two hundred years ago exactly as

the

it is

abundance of mangoes and other

the appearance of a perfect garden; in the midst

of which stands the rich and populous village of Sujeutra, in

the Pitlad purgunna, surrounded by extensive fields, highly cultivated,
all

large

girls,

and planted with rows of mangoes, tamarinds, and khirneys,

and shady

who

fruit trees.

Sujeutra belongs to a set of dancing-

frequently have lands and villages assigned them by the

princes of Hindostan.

When

the sun declined,

sandy road, very heavy

velling

we renewed our journey, over

for the cattle

by moonlight, we arrived

siderable fortified

town belonging

and palanquin

at a late
to the

a broad

bearers.

Tra-

hour at Kairah, a con-

Brodera chieftain, situated

on an eminence, near the confluence of two small

rivers, called the

96
Wartruc and Seme; we forded the

latter,

and

slept in onr palan-

quins on the banks of the Wartruc.

The next morning we

our

last .day's

rose with the

dawn, and commenced

journey to Ahmed-abad, through a delightful part

of Guzerat; but, although approaching the capital,

not so well cultivated as

much

ing very

many

it

other districts, occasioned by be-

by the Coolies and

infested

we found

Cotties.

The

villages

are large and populous, and the houses built of bricks in frames

Small scattered hamlets would be unsafe

of timber.

where the peasants are obliged

in

a district

to unite in considerable force to

defend themselves against the banditti.

The land contiguous

the villages was well cultivated, and planted with fruit trees.
fields in

they use

is

the refuse of the cow-houses; at

Malabar

been forbid

in

Bombay.

most excellent manure,

chiefly the

dung of animals, and

Bombay, and on many

manure the land with

coast, they

and other putrid substances,

oil

is

offensive

parts of

rotten fish, blubber,

and unwholesome:

is

this also constitutes

it;

when

suppose.

up

many

a nutritious
taste.

purposes by the Hindoos, especially

religious brahmins, that very little of

their houses
it:

used for so

has

the remains of the cocoa-nut after the

food for oxen, but gives the milk of the cows an unpleasant

Cow-dung

it

very good substitute, and indeed

has been expressed from

by the

The

Guzerat, except for very particular crops, do not require

much manure; what

the

to

it

goes for manure;

and humbler dewals are covered with, and purified bv

perfectly dry,

it

has a neater appearance than we should

In places where

into cakes,

and dried

wood

for fuel,

of rank prefer to any other.

is

scarce, the

cow-dung

is

made

which the brahmins and Hindoos

97
The uncultivated
with

tigers,

tracts in

Guzerat are woody, and abound

leopards, hyenas, wolves, wild-hogs,

of deer, elks, and antelopes, with those large

highly extolled in
poets are extremely

brilliant eyes,

so

The Persian and Arabian

poetry.

oriental

and a variety

fond of alluding to these beautiful eyes,

which, according to lady Wortley Montague's translation, " are

black and lovely, but wild and disdainful as those of the stag:"
this

idea extends from the gazelle of Arabia to the rein-deer of

Lapland,
the

as

Song of

we

find in the songs of those northern regions.

songs, the enraptured

" doves' eyes, which ravished

rivers of waters,

gazelle, or antelope,

moured

princess,

when

to prefer the

his heart, as the eyes of

washed with milk, and

But the

the mountains,

monarch seems

is

fitly set

In

doves by the

within the locks."

most probably alluded

to

by

his ena-

she says, her beloved " cometh leaping over

and skipping upon the

hills

like a roe, or

a young-

hart he looketh forth at the windows, shewing himself through

the lattice."

The more
and beauty:

saw of Guzerat, the more

both of which three noble

to

Nerbudda, and the Myhi,

Akbar

large districts,

admired

rivers,

its fertility

the Taptee, the

largely contribute; while the Sabermatty

and many smaller streams, water

reign of

its

luxuriant plains.

In the

the soubah of Guzerat contained nine sircars, or

which

were

subdivided into one hundred

and

The

ninety-eight purgunnas, of which thirteen were sea-ports.

amount of revenue was

forty-three crore, sixty-eight lacks, 2,301

dams, together with one lack, 62,628 dams of port duties

whole

being

equivalent to sicca rupees

10,96,123,3,11.

the

The

measured lands in Guzerat exceeded one crore and sixty-nine

vol. in.

98
Jacks of beegahs,

and

it

then mained 67,'375 cavalry, and 8900

infantry.

conclude

Akbery, with
of Hindostan
pire
air,

account of Guzerat, taken from the Ayecu

this

from

extract

short

in general.

"The

Abul

whole extent of

unequalled for the excellency of

is

Fazel's

its

description

this

vast

em-

waters, salubrity

of

mildness of climate, and the temperate constitutions of the

Every part

natives.

you cannot
villages,

is

cultivated

and

full

of inhabitants, so that

travel the distance of a coss without seeing

Even

and meeting with good water.

in

towns and

the depth of

winter the earth and trees are covered with verdure; and in the
rainy season the air

is

so delightfully pleasant, that

it

gives youthful

vigour to old age."

" In the fortieth year of the reign of Akber, the imperial

dominions consisted of one hundred and

subdivided into two thousand

seven

five sircars, or provinces,

hundred and thirty-seven

koubahs or townships; the revenue of which he

rupees, 9,0743881, 2,

5.

The empire was then

settled at sicca

parcelled out into

twelve grand divisions or soubahs, each of which was committed to

the care of a soubahdar or viceroy; to which the sovereign of the

world was pleased to add three more, which he had obtained by

conquest, thus increasing the

number

to fifteen/'

Such was the empire of Akber, and

part in beauty

which

still

districts

and

fertility

in all his vast

domain no

exceeded the province of Guzerat,

abounds with large commercial

cities,

which, since the dismemberment of the

the capitals of

Mogul empire,

have become independent. Populous villages and a well-cultivated

country enrich most of the purgunnas with crops of wheat,

rice,

99
barley,

and abundance of

tobacco, amply repay the

by a ready

litlle

trouble they occasion the farmer,

sale at foreign markets.

Nature seems
tribes in

and

inferior grain; while cotton, indigo,

also to be peculiarly favourable to the

Guzerat: the oxen are esteemed the

animal
they

finest in India;

and

are perfectly white, with black horns, a skin delicately soft,

eyes rivalling those of the antelope in brilliant lustre.

The oxen

reared in the northern part of the province are noble animals,

superior in strength, size, and docility;

some of them

travel with a

hackery from thirty to forty miles a day, and are yoked to the carriages of the wealthy

Hindoos

in distant parts of India.

very fine pair of these white oxen, in

to

most

saw

I ever

in

spirit, size,

had a

and beauty, equal

Guzerat; and in sweetness of temper and

gentleness of manners nearly approaching the elephant formerly

described in Ragobah/s campaign.

many thousand

gald mohurs the pair, a

common

mohurs a pair

The

miles in the delightful province of Guzerat.

Ayeen Akbery mentions some of

sterling; the

"With these animals I travelled

sum

these

oxen valued

at

one hundred

nearly equal to two hundred pounds

price at that period

was from

ten to twenty

while at the same time the usual price of a good

cow, yielding daily twenty quarts of milk, was only ten rupees, or
twenty-five shillings, in the beast-market at Delhi.

of these animals

is

employed

Guzerat

for the

the usual
dostan.

breed

in the province in agriculture,

the transportation of 'merchandize.

inferior in size, strength,

A smaller

There

and value, reared

same purposes; these are of

characteristics of the

and

also a variety

of

in different parts

of

is

colours,

and with

species in other parts

of Hin-

all

100
Horses
great

in

number

India are seldom employed for the pack or draft; a

are bred in different parts of Guzerat to supply the

cavalry of the respective governments; those of Cutch and Coltya-

war are

in

high estimation, but the best horses are brought to India

from Arabia, Persia, and Tartary; from the two former the trading

sometimes import mules of a large

vessels

serviceable animals, and far

horses brought from the

Hindostan,

all

Deckan and

Many

fine

breed of

horses of various

the northern provinces of

of which are sure to find purchasers at the courts of

and especially

princes,

more hardy than the

same country.

descriptions are bred in the

which are very

size,

in

The

the Mahratta armies.

horses of

Thibet are a peculiar race, generally pied, not exceeding the English

galloways in

size,

natural amblers, and

much

valued as pads.

Such were the animal and vegetable productions of

try

through which we were now travelling.

If the

the coun-

government of

Mohman Caun, nabob of Cambay, was discouraging and oppressive, I am sorry to say there was no amelioration for the peasantry
when we
Whether

purgunna and entered the Mahratta dominions.

left his

the districts

were under the immediate government of

delegates from the peshwa at Poonah, or ruled by different branches

of the Guicawar sovereigns in Guzerat, the evils of despotism every

where prevailed
felt in

the rapacity of venal and corrupt zemindars was

every village, and

masters.

Little as the

home, that

little is

left

the wretched inhabitants no choice of

poor ryot of India knows of a comfortable

most cruelly infringed by rapacious harpies of

every description.

The

nearer

we approached

the capital the

more we traced the

former splendor and magnificence of the moguls: ruined palaces.

101
gardens, and mausoleums, which once adorned the country,

add a

striking

and melancholy feature

now

to its desolation; these are

conspicuous in every village in the campagna of Ahmedabad, and

form a striking contrast to the

mud

cottages

and thatched hovels

of the Mahrattah peasantry.

On

our arrival at Betwah, or Puttowah, which we were told

had once formed apart of the suburbs of Ahmedabad (but was

now a detached

village five miles

from the city

ducted to a large square, containing several

walls),

we were con-

mahomedan tombs

and grand mausoleums; some were of white marble,

stone, covered with the finest stucco, white as alabaster,
sitely polished.

The domes were supported by

others of

and exqui-

elegant columns,

their

concaves richly ornamented, and the tessellated marble pave-

ment

beautifully arranged, vied with those of ancient

museum

at Portici

Gothic specimens

the tracery

in

and

fine

in the

windows resembled the

European cathedrals; and

which cover each tomb are of

fruit

in the

Rome

the small cupolas

marble, curiously inlaid with

flowers, in festoons of ivory, mother-of-pearl, cornelians,

onyxes, and precious stones, as neat as in European snuff-boxes.

The

small tombs in the centre of the building are adorned with

palls of gold

and

silver stuff,

and hung round with

strewed with jessamin and mogrees,

ostriches' eggs

and lamps, which are kept

continually burning by the fakeers and dervises maintained there

for that purpose.

Near most of

the

mahomedan

cities in

Asia are these extensive

cemeteries (none being allowed within the walls) containing a

ber of beautiful temples, sometimes supported

by

pillars

num-

and open

102
on

all sides,

at others closed

like a sepulchral

one door; each has a marble tomb

chamber, with only

in the centre,

under which

These burying-grounds

deposited the body of the deceased.

is

fre-

quently afford shelter to the weary traveller when overtaken by the

night,

and

at a loss for better

accommodation; and

are also a hiding-place for thieves

their recesses

and murderers, who

.'ally

out

from thence to commit their nocturnal depredations. Thus we read

in scripture of

demoniacs dwelling among the tombs

they are likewise the scene of

Arabian

many

in

Judea;

adventures in the Persian and

tales.

Except among the Parsees,

whom

have mentioned as the

fol-

lowers of Zoroaster, there seems to prevail throughout India the

greatest respect

and affectionate veneration

pious attentions of the

mahomedans, from

for the dead.

the magnificent

leum of Taje Mahal, the crown of the seraglio

at

The

mauso-

Agra, to the hum-

blest grave strewed with flowers in the village cemetery, confirm

this

pleasing truth; and although the Hindoos in general, after

burning the body of the deceased, and scattering the ashes into the
air,

do not erect a monument or a cenotaph

yet the parent lives in the

memory of his

any particular

children,

and

the

spot,

husband

Numerous annual ceremo-

in that of his wife, if she survive him.

nies are enjoined,

in

and most affectionately performed by the Hin-

doos to the manes of their ancestors.

Mr. Wilkins,

the Heetopades, informs us, that a Hindoo's

in a

note upon

hope of happiness

after

death depends upon his having a son to perform the offering of the
consecrated cake, and other ceremonies, by which he expects that
his soul will be released

find that

Absalom

from the torments of Naraka.

in his lifetime

reared

up

And we

for himself a pillar in

103
had no son

the king's dale, because he

keep

to

name

his

in

remem-

brance.
" Mark

die sad

" That threw

" Now
" Too

all its

yet,

cruel

once summer's darling

blooming odours

bright,

dazzling

" But
" By

its

rose,,

its

far

and wide,

blushing honours past

fair, alas

and sweet to

last

though scatter'd be each silken

Time,

pride,.

leaf,

that sad despoiling thief,

"

Still

from those leaves exhales a

"

Still

they are sweet, though they have ceas'd to bloom

" So

"

lov'd

rich

remembrances of joys long

perfume;

fled

O'er the sad heart their soothing influence shed

" While

in the breast

" Of past delight, to

is

sav'd each wither'd leaf

soothe

its

By

present grief!"

younc Lady.

was delighted with the mausoleums at Betwah, but the MuP-

lahs assured

me

they were inferior to those at Agra and Delhi,

where imperial wealth and magnificence had united

the tombs of the

Mogul

princes and their favourite sultanas.

marbles that could be procured were the most

finest

terials in these

to decorate

The

common ma-

superb buildings; for the ornamental parts consist-

ing of the most elegant borders in a sort of arabesque pattern,

with festoons of fruit and flowers in their natural colours, were

composed

and

entirely of agates, cornelians, turquoise, lapis-lazuli,

other valuable gems, rivalling the most admired specimens of the

inlaid marbles at Florence,

nals

where

compared

the

charming

origi-

on the tombs of the Medici, with some beautiful drawings

of the Faje

Mahal

at Agra, belonging to

an English lady

in

Tus-

How

cany,

who had

cibly

do these remind us of the truth and beauty of the metaphorical

visited the magnificent shrine at

Agra.

for-

104
language in the sacred page, promising sublime and spiritual joys

under allusions from these subjects

in oriental palaces

prophetical books of the Old Testament

said, " I will

it is

thy windows of agates, and thy gates of carbuncles, and

borders of pleasant stones."

New

Testament we

find the

In the

make
thy

all

In the figurative descriptions of the

same

ideas: "

Her

liht

was

like

unto

a stone most precious, even like a jasper stone, clear as crystal:

the wall was of jasper,

and the foundations were garnished with

the sapphire, the emerald, the chalcedony, the sardonyx, the chry-

and

the beryl, the topaz, the amethyst,

solite,

all

manner of pre-

cious stones."

From Petwah we
crowded

travelled over a tract of land, once filled with

and populous mansions, now a cultivated

streets

plain,

covered with trees and verdure, unless where a falling mosque or

mouldering palace reminded us of

increased as

we drew nearer

former

These ruins

state.

the city, until at length

An

through acres of desolation.

its

we

travelled

universal silence reigned; nothing

indicated our approach to a capital, nor did

we meet

with " one

sad historian of the mournful plain," without the gates of Alme-

dabad!
Et seges

or rather

let

me

est ubi

Troja

quote a similar scene

of the prophetical writings, of a city

either

Ovid.

fuit.

Troy or the

in the expressive

still

capital of Guzerat, that

language

more magnificent than

it

should become a heap

of ruins, a dwelling- place for dragons, an astonishment and a hissing, without

there,

an inhabitant; the wild beasts of the desert should be

and the houses

full

of doleful creatures

the owls should

105
dwell in their habitations, and the sat}TS dance in their pleasant

Such

places.

is

now

of Ahmedabad;
jackals;

it

the desolation round the circumscribed walls

is

literally

abode of monkeys, guanas,

the

and

the resort of tigers, hyenas,

and noxious

serpents,

reptiles!

" The

spider holds the veil in the palace of Ccesar

" The owl

On

stands sentinel on the watch-towers of Afrasiab "

perusing this letter in manuscript, Sir Charles Malet con-

firmed the preceding desolation of

during

among

Sady.

encampment near

his

Ahmedabad by a

the

city

circumstance

of Aurungabad, where,

the ruins of the imperial palace, he

saw a timid hare

start

from the spot where once stood the throne of Aurungzebe, who
gave
ing

his

name

visit is

"

to the city.

The

following account of this interest-

transcribed from his journal:

May 31,

1794. This morning we made another excursion

from our encampment to view the city of Aurungabad and

virons.

We

went

first

to the palace,

which was

built

its

en-

by Aurung-

zebe at the same time as the city; and in the multiplicity and
extent of

its

offices

and apartments, exhibits a strong proof of the

magnificence of that great but bigotted monarch, and of the melancholy mutability of

human

grandeur; for in the short space of

ninety years the splendid remains of this princely structure are

mouldering into dust, and some parts quite obliterated

"

We

first

entered by a lofty gateway into a vast area called

the Jellougah, or the place where the imperial guards paraded

gates here, as in most other oriental palaces

tended

for the

VOL. III.

and

cities,

the

being in-

admission of state elephants, with the exalted hou T

p

106
much

dar on their backs, are on a large scale, and add

general grandeur.

From

we ascended a noble

the Jellougah

to the
flight

of steps into another spacious court, on the western side of which

was the duan aum, or public

of audience, and opposite to

hall

On

the nobut khani, or music-gallery.

approaching the

hall

it

of

audience, a timid hare started from the spot where stood the mus-

nud of Aurungzebe

the world was seated in

all his

The throne was

glory!

the most conspicuous part of this superb hall

filled

monarch

that throne where the proudest

with ameers of the

first

distinction,

in

elevated in

the hall itself

was

and the spacious court

crowded with haughty warriors and other nobles, while the

air

echoed with the swelling notes from the nobat khani, and the voices
of the chopdars and heralds loudly proclaiming, "
the world live for ever!"

From

nobles then approached with

forth a terrified

This

is

little

that throne, which the proudest

awe and

palpitation,

now sprang

hare!"

mausoleum

at

Agra, already mentioned, which city

then belonging to (he Mahrattas,

accommodation of
"

king of

followed by an excellent description of the Taje Mahal,

the celebrated

the

May the

On approaching

this

spot was appropriated for

the English embassy.

the

famous

city of Agra, or

Akber-abad, the

most melancholy remains of former grandeur presented themselves

on

all sides

mosques, palaces, gardens, caravansaries, and mauso-

leums, mingled in one general ruin!

city, at

which there was no guard,

ter called

On

entering the gate of the

proceeded through the quar-

Momtazabad, over a chaos of desolation

miles, to Taje

Mahl, the gem or diadem of the

for

seraglio,

about two
which was

the place allotted by Mhadajee Sindia, the Mahratta chieftain, for

107

my

accommodation.

This grand mausoleum, which stands due

norlh and south, on the southern bank of the river Jumna, was
built

by command of the emperor Shah Jehan

his favourite sullana

Momtaz

for the

interment of

mehl, or Montazal Zumaiti, the " Pre-

eminent in the seraglio, or Paragon of the age;" and at his death his

remains were also here deposited, by order of

"This building,

in point

son Aurungzebe.

his

of design and execution,

is

one of the

most extensive, elegant, commodious, and perfect works that was

To

ever undertaken and finished by one man.

architect the

emperor Shah Jehan gave the

or Jewel-handed, to distinguish him from

all

celebrated

of Zerreer Dust,

title

other

this

artists.

This ex-

traordinary man, knowing the impatience of the emperor, and the

peculiar situation of the intended structure on the precarious banks

of the

river, after

laying a strong foundation, secreted himself for

twelve months, nor could the strictest search by imperial mandate

discover his retreat.
rily

At the expiration of

and throwing himself on the

in the hall of audience,

appeared

that period, he volunta-

emperor's clemency, declared that he had absconded from the fear

of beino- uroed by

his

majesty to proceed with the superstructure

before he had sufficiently proved the solidity of the foundation; of

this beintr
rial

now

perfectly satisfied, he

was ready

to

fulfil

the impe-

command.
" The astonishing art and niceness of the masonry has hitherto

admirably withstood the devastations of time; nor has a succession

of barbarous and predatory invaders yet dared

tity

and beauty 'of

laro-e

squares

travellers,

this

wonderful fabric.

It is

the outer one intended for the

and the convenience of the

to violate the sanc-

composed of two

accommodation of

inferior officers attached to

108
it:

the inner court, which

is

entered through large gates of brass

under a stupendous dome, forms a beautiful garden, with a profusion of fountains, surrounded
tion

At

and devotion.

Jumna

is

the grand

sited.

It

is

by magnificent buildings

for recrea-

the north end, close to the bank of the

dome, under which the royal remains are depo-

built entirely of

pure white marble, on an immense

square platform of the same material, having a lofty minaret of

-

equal beaut} at every corner.

perial

mausoleum,

is

On

each

side,

and behind the im-

a suit of elegant apartments also of white

marble, highly decorated with coloured stones.

The tombs and

other principal parts of this vast fabric are inlaid with wreaths of
flowers

and

foliage in their natural colours, entirely

cornelians, onyxes, verd-anlique, lapis-lazuli,

composed of

and every variety of

agates, so admirably finished as to have rather the appearance of

an ivory model

set

with jewels, just delivered from the

artist's

hand, than an edifice which has withstood the inclemency of the

elements an hundred and forty-seven years."
Sir Charles

an authentic

adds the following short account, extracted from

mahomedan

chronologist, viz. " This year being the

sixteenth of his majesty's reign, he attended in person the ceremonies of the

'

anniversary of the death of the nabob Meh'ddlea,

Montaz Meld /and

was held

distributed large

in the magnificent

sums

in alms.

mausoleum which was

The

meeting:

finished this

year, having been twelve years in building, at the expense of

lacks of rupees;

its

chokies, serais,

and various

offices,

grand city which went by the name of Montazabad.

lages from the dependencies of Akberabad

fifty-

formed a

Thirty

vil-

and Neiggarchwid, whose

produce was rated at four lacks of damms, and whose income

109
amounted

to

appropriated

one lack of rupees per annum, were made wukf, and

to the.

use of the maiuoleum.

The produce

of the

shops, bazars, and serais, arnounled to an equal sum, so that there

was a yearly revenue of two lacks of rupees

allotted for the neces-

sary repairs of the building, for the salaries of the various offices

attached to

it,

and

for charitable distributions; the surplus, if

any

remained, was lodged in the treasury of the mausoleum."

C.

W. M.

in building 'the

magni-

Agra, 1785.

Annexed

is

ficent structure

an abstract of the expenses

mentioned above, selected from a very

in the Asiatic Miscellany,

total

which not only

amount expended upon

of the time employed in

was commenced

its

in the fifth

this

full

account

differs materially in the

immense undertaking, but

construction, which

it

also

expressly saj

year of the reign of the emperor Shah

Jehan, and the whole completed in sixteen years, four months, and

twenty-one days.

no
Expense of

the mosque, with the pavement, the

Rupees.

fountain, and spiral ornaments

8,25,811

51,77,979

68,895

5,472

8,154

8,24,625

18,85,032

Tli e sepulchre with the four meenars, the terrace,

pavement

the

and the

in front,

spiral orna-

ments

Tomb

of Shah Jehan, of marble, inlaid with pre-

29,190

cious stones

Tomb of Mumtazal Zumani,

of marble, inlaid with

26,620

precious stones

Marble

railing,

with the inlaid work, and doors of

agate

room

pair of silver doors for the glass

Sandal-wood doors, brass gates, and chains

to the

meenars and dome

The Jumaut khanah, with

and

The

spiral

ornaments

'

towers, piazzas, public

tains,

The

the terrace, the fountain

walks, marble foun-

and large brass gates

jilaw khaneh, or court, with the bazars, reservoirs,

Wages

warehouses, wells,

&c

of the masons and other

workmen

74,103 14
2,63,013

2,25,581

The two outer khowar-poorehs

38,005

The chowkundy of Sutty Khanem

27,078

52,438

Buildings in the town of

The other chowkundys,

them

Mumtazabad

squares,

and buildings near

Total amount, rupees 98,15,426 13

Ill
The above sum of
hundred and

ninety-eight lacks, or nine millions eight

thousand rupees,

fifteen

is

equal to one million two

hundred and twenty-five thousand pounds

price of labour then was, and

still

sterling.

Although the

continues to be very reasonable

in India, yet the

expense of the marble and precious stones was

immense, and

such profusion as to make the high colouring of

in

oriental poetry

no longer
" There

ideal.

stately

mansions

new and

" Flame with Barbaric gems and

" There

old

gold

shine, with pride, the regal stores,

" Of ivory

roofs,

" There diadems

and cedrine
of price

floors

unknown

" Blaze with each

all-attracting stone

" Firm diamonds,

like fix'd

honour

true,

" Some

pink, and some of yellow hue

" Some

black, yet not the less esteem'd,

" The

rest like tranquil

Jumna

gleam'dj

"

When

'*

Betray 'd by the pellucid wave.

" Like
'

Or

" Oft

fire

the ruby glow'd,

but radiant water show'd

amethysts,

in richest

Sapphires, like yon ethereal plain

" Gay

ore

found, a purple vesture wore

" Emeralds,

"

her bed the Gopialave

raging

soft,

" Pure

"

in

like peipal fresh with rain

topazes, translucent gold

Pale chrysolites of softer

" Fam'd

mould

beryls, like the surge marine,

" Light azure mix'd with modest green

"

Refracted every varying dye,

"

Bright as yon

" Here
'*

opals,

bow

which

that girds the sky,

all

hues unite,

Display their many-tinctur'd light

112
" With turquoises divinely blue,

" (Though doubts

'

'

Whether

ting'd, or native stone)

pearls unblemish'd, such as

" Bhawanee s

Many

they grew,)

first

chaste elephantine bone,

" By minerals

" And

where

arise

wrist, or

deck

Enchanted Fruit.

Lecshmy's neck."

things in the description of the Faje-Malial

have a great resemblance

to the

ornaments

glistering stones

of divers colours, and marble in abundance.

And

appointed one superior

or jewel-handed

man,

Solomon wrote

to

that magnificent structure, so

Tyre, to send him a

man cunning

to

work

in

as

Shah Jehan

to superintend

Huram, king of

gold and

brass and iron, in purple, and crimson, and blue, and that
to grave with the cunning

men

Agra

Solomon's temple,'

in

which was adorned with onyx-stones, precious and

artist,

at

of Judah and Jerusalem.

silver, in

had

skill

\
q
3

8 M

N
>

>

(J

=3

Zi

CHAPTER XXX.
ahmed-abad;
an account op its former grandeur, and present decay;
the character op its inhabitants;
a description of the mosques, palaces, gardens,
and principal structures, in
that imperial citw

"
arisen

I conceive

from

tracted

local

every traveller does well to submit to his country, observations which have

knowledge;

since, out of

in deciding

try

dross,

it is

possible

Those who have never

renders the knowledge of importance

country to be superior to any other

ality

much

some pure sold may be ex-

and by whatever customs or prejudices mankind are enslaved, that very circumstance

upon any custom,

from which

it

and

its

lay aside our

commonly

its

travelled, conceive their

customs the most excellent

own

prejudices, and

results, that after a while,

have arisen with propriety from

VOL. III.

locality

all

we

own

should, therefore,

things with imparti-

you perceive the customs of each coun-

and climate."

examine

Oriental Collections.

CONTENTS.
Description of

Ahmed- abad when

built

Ahmed its for-

by Sultan

mer magnitude, and great decay, compared with Nineveh and

Babylon

contrast

hovels melancholy
ties

in

Ilindostan

between

the

Mogul

situation of the reduced

caravansaries

and extent tomb of

mosque dreadful

and gardens
there

sultan

city

Ahmed

heat

of dust

and

Mahratta

Mogulfamilies chari-

those on

scribed J umma-musjed at Ahmed-abad,

ivory

palaces

its

the royal roads

de-

uncommon grande,

mosques of Sujaat

Khaun

public wells and aqueductspalaces

banian

public hummumsnews

hospital gold formerly coined

writers

Kokarea uncommon pal-

Dutch and English factories trade

at that time manufactures artists Persian and Mogul beau nurses India mausoleums and mosque at Sercazepalace
and gardens at Shah-Bhaug park and pleasure-grounds Zenana
arrangement Akber's haram Damascus ottar of
Nurse's well a most
structure sepulchres of Mahomedan
nurses Narwallee, the ancient capital of Guzerat conquered by
Afghans indolent and peaceable character of
Hindoos
came an easy conquest
northern invaders immense plunder
splendid of monarchs
bride a gorgeous
myraDutch burying-ground

ties

in

rose

in

roses

costly

the

to these

taste

their

the celestial

be-

temple erected by sultan Mahmood Afghans conquered by the Mogul

Tartars character ofTimur-Lung

sacre at Delhi

tury

declining

the cause

his posterity to the

state

ral

Ayeen

a magnificent hall

in

the

Mahrattas

power

nabob

flics to

Cambay,

the

hip

to the institutes

splendid taste

on the

beginning of the eighteenth cen-

taken by English under geneAkbery Akber Abul Fazel

sublime
that
of Akber
Mogul princes
Dewane-khass,
of
palace of Shah Allum, described

tribute to that

and beautiful preface

tions

dreadful cruelty in the mas-

of Ahmed-abad and Cambay becoming independent

Goddard

emperor

his

of the empire, and usurpation of the nabobs

Ahmed-abad conquered by
and pays

the

Mogul history.

the

successors to

the

rejlec*

CHAPTER XXX.

The

imperial city of

23 degrees north, and

banks of the

From being

river

and

situated in the latitude of

in 72 37' east longitude,

and
its

is

built

on the

western walls.

formerly one of the largest capitals in the east,

it is

three quarters in circumference, surrounded

wall, with irregular towers every fifty yards, in the usual

of Indian fortifications;

style

is

Sabermatty, which washes

now only five miles and

by a high

Ahmedabad

there are

twelve principal gates,

several smaller sally-ports.

Ahmedabad was
Shah, on the

built in the year

1426 A. D. by sultan

of a more ancient town.

site

The

Ahmed

sultan being

on

a hunting party at a great distance from Gulburga, his usual place

of residence, was so delighted with this spot, that he resolved to
build a magnificent city, and call

abad.

In

its

greatest splendor,

it

it

after his

own name Ahmed-

extended, with the suburbs,

twenty-seven miles in circumference; Thevenot,

the seventeenth century, says

Ayeen Akbery thus

side of

and

which

is

describes

the town;

sixty pooras,

it

it

it;

who

visited

it

in

was then seven leagues: and the

" there are two

forts,

on the out-

formerly consisted of three hundred

or quarters;

but only eighty-four are

now

in a

flourishing condition: in these are a thousand mosques, each hav-

118
two large minarets, and many wonderful

ino-

situation,

the river Sabermatty,

upon

you may here provide yourself with

The

inscriptions.

remarkably healthy, and

is

the productions of every part

of the globe."
"
" By

princely p.ilace, and stupendous fane,

in ruin,

" From under

shelving architraves, hath

nod!

Ahmedabad.
industry,

doomed never

its

indicate

and adorned by wealth.

ments, have brought

that

cleft the

time

mow'd

pond'rous stone !"

the

decaying palaces,
former

Long

wars, unstable

and the fluctuations of human

to

it

much

not

less,

other authors,

seems

have no doubt

thirty miles;

and ancient

London, with

history, sacred

Josephus describes the former

great city of three days journey; twenty miles a

oriental

it

and pro-

with the extent and magnificence of Nineveh

fane, astonishes us

and Babylon.

and op-

to recover.

Ahmedabad once extended near

is

of

establish-

a state of decay from which

the appearance of these scattered rains,

environs,

mon

magnificence

and

was then enriched by commerce, peopled by

It

pressive governments,

From

Where

nodding minarets,

side,

aqueducts,

mouldering

obscur'd

" Magnificent

" The column down, and

every

now

sordid moss, and ivy's creeping leaf;

" The

On

all

journey for foot

make

its

travellers.

as

an exceeding

day was the com-

Diodorus Siculus, and

extent more than sixty miles;

it

contained

habitations for six hundred thousand inhabitants; with the gardens

and pastures usual

Babylon, but

in eastern cities.
little

inferior to

Nineveh, was styled the glory

119
of nations, the beauty of Chaldea, the lady

golden
as

many

with

city,

characteristic of

similar

titles,

given

of kingdoms,

by the prophets,

Nothing could

splendour and dignity.

its

exceed the grandeur of

the

palaces and temples, nor the beauty

ils

of the hanging-gardens: these, with the canals, water-works, and

other ornaments, described by ancient historians,

How

astonishment.

the

mind with

awful are the reflections upon the judgments

denounced against these

they were so

fill

literally

impiety and idolatry!

for their

cities

accomplished that

infidels

have been com-

pelled to assert that the prophecies were written after the events.

Herodotus and
three hundred
six chariots

and

Diodorus

fifty feet

say the

high,

walls

of Babylon were

and eighty-seven broad;

could pass abreast on the ramparts; a magnitude

perhaps without a parallel; yet it was foretold, that

ness of

its

so that

inhabitants

for the Avicked-

should become a desolation, a dry land,

it

and a wilderness; a land where no man should dwell, neither any

son of

man

besom of

pass thereby:

it

should be a spot swept with the

destruction; where the Arabian would not pitch his tent

nor the shepherds

filled,

that

make

their

folds.

So

literally

is

all

this ful-

that travellers, a few centuries ago, assert that the ruins of

ancient Babylon were so

full

of venomous creatures, especially of

a poisonous animal called eglo, that no one dared

to

approach

who

nearer this heap of desolation than half a league; and those

have been

lately there, declare they

can no longer discern the

site

of this ancient city.

Ahmedabad,

like those

proud

capitals,

seemed hastening

dissolution; from covering an extent of thirty miles,

to less than six;

much of

that space,

it

to ils

had dwindled

even within the

walls,

was

120
covered with ruins, or appropriated to corn-fields and fruit-gardens.

Some
as

of the streets were broad, but not planted with rows of

mentioned by Mandesloe, and other

The triumphal

paved.

travellers;

neither are they

arches, or three united gates, in the prin-

cipal streets, with the grand entrance to the durbar,

The mosques and

palaces of the Pattans

The

magnificence.

original

trees,

streets

still

still

remain.

give evidence of their

were spacious and regular;

the temples, aqueducts, fountains, caravansaries, and courts of jus-

Commerce,

tice well arranged.

art,

and science, met with every

encouragement, when a splendid court was kept

was then the

now

travellers

of every

and desolation!

behold the most heterogeneous mixture of

Mogul splendor

it

and Mahratta barbarism

of

and

exhibits solitude, poverty,

description;

You

resort of merchants, artists,

in this city; it

mud;

a noble cupola, overshadowing hovels

small windows, ill-fashioned doors, and dirty cells intro-

duced under a superb portico; a marble corridore

filled

up with

composed of mud, cow-dung, and uh-

Choolas, or cooking-places,

burnt bricks.

But declining commerce and ruined buildings

symptoms of decay.

Mogul

families,

are not the only

saw a great many unfortunate Pattan and

who, having; survived the dignified situation of

their ancestors, lived in the

dation of poverty.

gloom of obscurity, and

The young men

felt

the degra-

offered themselves as soldiers

of fortune to more flourishing governments, or otherwise sought

a provision.

Not

so the

aged, the infirm, and the softer sex;

they had seen belter days; " they could not dig, to beg they were

ashamed."

The

jewels

were privately sold

at

and ornaments of the Mogul paraphernalia

a great disadvantage,

to

procure the neces-

121

disposed

my

during

saries of life;

saw many

short residence 1

especially a small mirror, in the centre of a single

of,

and

agate, adorned with golden foliage,

roses of small rubies,

had been purchased from a Mogul widow

Of such

articles thus

females

it

might truly be

for only ten

which

rupees.

said, " her virgins are afflicted,

her matrons are desolate; they sigh for bread, they have given

meat

their pleasant things for

\"

These unhappy families excited our

pity;

wants were

their

my

not relieved by that generous charity which characterizes

country,

tive

where

the

of adversity

children

find

affliction

who wipe

softened and sorrow soothed, by exalted souls,

na-

the

fall-

ing tear from the orphan's eye, and cause the " widow's heart to
sing for joy."

Virtues

amply recompensed

sensations in the soul of sympathy,

and

dissipation,

those

who have

will

and the merciful

It is

not

my

unknown

meet a glorious reward

upon the poor

pity

shall obtain

shall

intention to infer that

many

Greeks and luxurious Romans, who

cruelty.

With pleasure

ments

in Hindostan,

vision

made

in

the traveller.

of contribution

and treated
I

But
is

when

the

Mahomedans

institutions: far

unknown

in general

to

from

it;

the polite

disregarded the

their sick slaves with

savage

have mentioned the charitable endowat Surat, to the pro-

villages, for the poor, the helpless,

and

to these, like the English poors-rates, a refusal

seldom optional. The

spirit

modes of

sedes compulsive and ostentatious

vol. in.

the votaries of

be pronounced blessed,

from the banian-hospital

theGuzerat

by sweet

in that day,

among

of various descriptions

old and diseased poor,

to

life,

mercy

and Hindoos there are no charitable

they have

in this

of Christianity supercharity;

alms given

122
from a

different

may

motive

equally benefit the object; but the

heart which melts at another's woe,

is

actuated by very superior

considerations to those which produce the

same

Love

church-warden, or overseer of a work-house.

of that divine religion,

And

effect
is"

from the

the essence

pervades the whole system of the gospel.

it

from that pure principle in the Christian's heart, flow

delightful charities of

"

life.

God,

to

fibre thine

nerves that vibrate, and the hearts that glow

all

" The joy

" The
"

which beauty,

holy

fires,

which worth

inspires

supreme

that melts in pity's sigh

choice acknowledg'd, and the

Whom

Blest myriads

still

warm embrace
there are,

Sympathy adopts with fondest

" Unbrib'd by

care

wealth, by fortune undismay'd,

'

Friends in the sun-shine, partners in the shade

'

In whose

'

that lights the hope-illumin'd eye,

bliss

"

'

all

Affection's bloom, quick rushing to the face,

" The

"

whom we owe

Love's tender tumult, friendship

" And

" The same

In

each social

social pulse,

Hail, symbols of the

" The
"

Ahmcdabad,

warm

hearts the soft sensations roll,

in India, Albion, or the Pole !"

as

in

most other large

Pratt.

cities

of India, are

splendid remains of those noble structures, for the

tion of travellers, erected

always

in

the

Hail! sacred source of sympathy divine,

" Each
"

all

accommoda-

by the Mogul monarchs. They were not

towns, but frequently in deserts, and places

little fre-

quented, except by travelling merchants and religious pilgrims,

whose profession led them from one place

every variety of country.

When

to

another,

through

benighted in a dreary solitude,

123
they were certain, within a moderate distance, to find one of these
buildings appropriated for their accommodation, and were often

supplied with the necessaries of

life gratis;

Opulent

the lower classes of pilgrims.

at least such as sufficed

men-

travellers, as already

tioned, always carry their comforts and luxuries with

them on an

eastern journey.

Those buildings, under the

saries,

the

different

names of serais, caravan-

or choultries, were erected at stated distances throughout

Mogul empire,

especially

those provinces which

on the patshah, or royal roads.

now form

In

part of the Mahratla dominion,

many of these structures have been converted into fortresses; others

are made storehouses for the grain and hay belonging to the circar; a few answer the purpose for which they were intended, but

most are

in

The

a state of dilapidation.

were generally

serais

constructed in an oblong square, consisting of a high wall and

towers, with a

way

handsome entrance

at the cardinal points.

strength, with

ments

for the

The

at each end;

a few had a gate-

gates were often of considerable

guard-rooms on each

side.

Two

ranges of apart-

convenience of the merchants, containing sleeping

rooms and warehouses

for their goods,

formed a

street

from one

gate to the other; with a colonnade, or veranda, in front of the

buildings, opening to a spacious area between them.

The

serais

with four gates contained a double range of these apartments,

forming an avenue to each entrance.

Under

the ramparts were similar accommodations.

plete

and splendid

serais

the inner wall of

In the most com-

a due regard was observed for public

worship, ablutions, and other ceremonies; without the eastern gate

was generally erected a musjid, or house of prayer, where a

124
mullah attended to

assist the

Mussulman

pious

in

devotion

his

This edifice, of marble or stone, was often surrounded by a garden,

or a tope of

mangoes and tamarinds, shading a cemetery

pilgrims as finished the journey of

intended a halt.

life

The opposite gale

useful gardens: these were noble

where they only

often led to a tank, well,

at Surat, they

not have bestowed a more useful charily in

where there are no public

and

were sometimes

erected by the piety and benevolence of opulent individuals,

could

such

and expensive works, becoming

As mentioned

a wise government.

at a place

for

hotels,

inns,

country

or houses

who

of refresh-

ment.
Sultan

Ahmed,

the founder of the city, enriched

with a

it

jumma

variety of other public structures, especially a magnificent

musjed, or grand mosque, called after his name, which arrests

the
city,

attention of

all

adorned by two

strangers.
lofty

It stands

in

the middle

of the

minarets, elegantly proportioned, and

richly decorated: each minaret contains a circular flight of steps

leading to a gallery near the summit, for the purpose of con-

vening the people to prayer, no

medans. From thence you

bells

being in use

command an

among

the

Maho-

extensive view of Ahmed-

abad, and the Saberly winding through a wide champaign.

domes of the jumma musjed

gularly disposed,

cupolas

is

richly

but too

are supported b} lofty columns, re-

much crowded;

the concave of these

ornamented with Mosaic and fret-work; the

portal corresponds with the rest of this stupendous fabric,

pavement

is

The

of the finest marble.

western side of a large square;

in the

and the

This mosque occupies

centre of which

is

the

a marble

basin and fountain, for ablutions, called the wazzoo, preparatory

s.

^
\
<3

fa
'

8f

125
to the

namauz, or prayer; such

reservoirs

and fountains are made

near most of the mosques for the convenience of the congregation.

The

other sides of this spacious area are rendered useful

and orna-

mental by a surrounding corridore, of elegant columns, supporting a roof of light columns, forming a cloister round three parts

of

square;

the

sentences

with

and cornices are ornamented

interior walls

its

from

the

Koran,

emblazoned

in

beautiful

manner.

An uncommon

degree of solemnity characterises

Grandeur and simplicity

musjed.

reverential awe.

Mahomedans,

Whatever may be

their

house of prayer

is

unite,

and

fill

this

the

jumma

mind with

the general characteristic of the

demeanor from the moment they enter the

truly exemplary.

They seem conscious of

having approached the immediate presence of the Supreme Being,

and

all

ranks conduct themselves throughout the service with pious

humility.

jumma musjed is a grand mausoleum, in memory

Ahmed and two of his sons. Beyond it is the cemetery

Near
sultan

the

or

of

the sultanas, princesses, and favourite eunuchs in the royal haram.

No domes

or temples cover their marble tombs, they are shaded

by cypresses and pomegranates, surrounded by flowering shrubs.

Certain lands, called wukf, are appropriated for the maintenance

of the mullahs and dervises

who

constantly reside there, to pre-

serve the tombs, keep the lamps burning, and strew flowers on
stated anniversaries.

The mosque
is

built

more elegant than

by Sujaat Khaun, though

sultan

are finely proportioned,

less

magnificent,

Ahmed's; the columns and arches

and the whole

structure, of the pures

126
white marble, surrounded by the dark foliage and glowing scarlet

uncommon effect. " MucburrS

beautiful among the Moguls of

of pomegranate blossoms, had an

Sujaat Khaun,"

The

Guzerat.

is

proverbially

precincts

a handsome

contain

mausoleum,

in

memory

of the founder, and a fountain of excellent water; near

them

the falling

is

sumptuous

edifice,

palace of

now an

" Troy

1
ivory,

will

is

benevolent nobleman, once a

this

extensive ruin.

no more, and Ilium was a town

!"

proceed no further with the religious edifices than the

mosque, which, although built of white marble, has obtained

that distinction, from being curiously lined with ivory,

and

inlaid

with a profusion of gems, to imitate natural flowers, bordered by

a silver foliage on mother of pearl, similar to those I mentioned
at

Puttowab, and to the ornaments

Adrinople, described by

the Kahya's palace at

apartments of

in the winter

Montague; which " were wainscotled with

inlaid

Lady Wortley
work of mother

of pearl, ivory of different colours, and olive-wood, like the

little

boxes brought from Turkey."

Each of
ject

for

these

mosques would have furnished a

a drawing; but while sketching the

the central fountain

in

the

large

area, I

coup de soldi, and was obliged to retire.

greater heat than during the hot winds at

jumma

felt

able; the heavens

many

musjed from

something like a

have seldom experienced

Ahmedabad;

a distance from the sea, and not refreshed by

external atmosphere, for

beautiful sub-

its

situated at

breezes, the

hours in the day, was insupport-

were as brass, and the earth like healed

and we were obliged

to

iron,

confine ourselves in dark rooms, cooled

127
by

or screens of matted grass, kept continually watered.

tatties,

I therefore gave

up

my

intention of seeing several places within

a few miles of the city; like Thevenot, when he relinquished

visit to

the

tomb of Jonah, on the banks of the

Tigris;

his

" from

there being no possibility of stirring abroad two hours after the

sun was

risen,

hot, that

until

an hour

half a foot from

after

it

had

set,

them the heat was

the walls being so

as if

it

were from a

hot iron."

Exclusive of the public aqueducts for conveying water to

ferent parts of the city, which with
tains
gift

were now

in ruins,

were

most of the

many

private wells

of benevolent individuals; these extended in

the city gates;

some yet remain, but

general ruin.

Dr. Chandler's travels

ins:

reservoirs

dif-

and foun-

and gardens, the

all

directions from

are mostly involved in the

in

Asia Minor give a pleas-

account of these charitable donations, and an observation at

the conclusion, which I have no doubt operates powerfully on

the

mind

owing

of the donor.

to the

parched and

" The number of these fountains

nature of the
thirsty,

country and the climate.

demands moisture

a cloudless sun, which inflames the

the verdure, shade and coolness,

its

air,

to

The

aid vegetation;

is

soil,

and

requires for the people

agreeable attendants.

they occur not only in the towns and villages, but in the

Hence

fields

and

gardens, and by the sides of the roads and of the beaten tracks on

the mountains.

mane
on

of them are the useful donations of hu-

persons, while living, or have been bequeathed as legacies

their decease.

rious,

Many

The Turks esteem

and seldom go away,

after

the erecting

them

as merito-

performing their ablutions or

128
drinking,

without gratefully blessing the

name and memory

of

the founder."

Until this

Ahmedabad,

to

visit

had no idea of the extent

of oriental magnificence; the palaces and splendid chambers described in the Arabian Nights' Entertainment, appear no longer

over-charged

or

excepting only

fabulous;

the

wonder-working

by Aladin's celebrated lamp.

genii, called into action

For

have

no doubt there was a time when the palaces and gardens

Ahmedabad, almost

realized

rious mansions in Balsora

at

the other descriptions of the luxu-

and Bagdad.

I can,

at least,

have no

idea of any reality beyond those erected and adorned by Shah

Homer must have been

Jehan and Sujaat Khaun.

familiar with

such scenes, when he describes the palaces and treasures at Ithaca

and the Spartan court, especially where Telemachus thus addresses

Pisistratus.

"

View'st thou unmov'd,

" These

O ever-honour'd most!

prodigies of art, and wonderous cost

" Above, beneath, around

the palace shines

" The

sumless treasure of exhausted mines:

" The

spoils

"

studded amber darts a golden ray

And

of elephants the roofs inlay,

" Mean
" Where

time the lofty rooms the prince surveys,

lay the treasures of the Ithacian race

" Here ruddy

'

'

There

" Here

Notwithstanding

brass,

and gold refulgent blaz'd

polish'd chests embroider'd vestures grac'd

jars

" There

of

oil

breath'd forth a rich perfume,

casks of wine, in rows, adorn'd the room."

all

its

splendour,

Shah Jehan, who was long resident

Homer's Odyssey.

Ahmedabad was

called

by

there, Guerdabad, or the city of

129
dust,

from the abundance of dust

in the

dry season.

After the pre-

valence of the hot winds, before the setting in of the rainy season,
it is still

one of the warmest and most dusty places

I omitted to remark, that one of the principal

city

w as formerly a Hindoo
r

converted
in

it

The

temple.

mosques

in this

zealous Aurungzebe

and ordered a cow

into a musjed;

I ever visited.

to

be killed there,

order to prevent the Hindoos from ever. entering

Thevenot

it.

mentions the mausoleum of a cow, that was buried at Ahmedabad,

covered by a

dome supported by

He

find out.

six pillars,

which

could not

also describes a banian-hospital similar to that at

Surat, where he saw a

number of

sick oxen, camels,

and many invalids of the feathered

race.

curable were maintained there for

life

and

horses,

Animals deemed

in-

those that recovered were

Hindoos exclusively.

sold to

The former consequence of Ahmedabad may be

degree ascertained from

its

imperial Akber permitted

being one of the four

gold

to

cities

in

some

where the

be coined; the other three

allowed that distinguished privilege were Agra, Cabul, and the

capital of Bengal; ten
silver,

are

and

no remains of the mint,

warm

were indulged with a royal mint for

in twenty-eight they coined a

buildings; but

-are

cities

baths.

several

treasury,

copper currenc}-.

There

and many olher public

magnificent ruins

of the

hummums,

Those of modern structure are very

inferior,

or

but

kept up in different quarters for the convenience of the inha-

bitants.

It is

probable that

all

the oriental

of architecture, accommodation, and

times insignificant,
in ancient

VOL.

hummums,

beauty, have been at

when compared with those sumptuous

Rome, which now form a very conspicuous

III.

in point
all

edifices

part of her

130
majestic ruins; and not only in that once proud capital, but in

many

of her conquered kingdoms and provinces.

Few

cities,

When

haps, excelled Alexandria in such embellishments.

it

per-

wa3

taken by the Saracens the number of baths exceeded four thou-

we

sand, as
library,

from the conflagration of the Alexandrian

learn

by order of the caliph Omar; when seven hundred thou-

sand volumes were condemned to be used as fuel

to

and notwithstanding that amazing number of baths,

elapsed before

the books were consumed.

all

must ever lament

this

cruel

unknown, the

for ages;

who

of news-writers, or gazetteers,

at

vinces.

bigotry.

and the

cities,

art

of

are a sort

them

off

all

the

by express

to their correspondents in distant pro-

During the splendour of the Mogul government,

capital of every district, the

historiographer,

world

literary

midnight record

transactions of the preceding day, and send

or messengers,

months

was irreparable!

loss

In Ahmedabad, as in most other large oriental

halcarras,

six

mandate of ignorance and

The manuscripts had been accumulating

printing being then

The

heat them:

and a spy,

in the

emperor maintained a gazetteer, an

to collect

and record the occurrences

of the day; and immediately to transmit them to a public officer

at the imperial court,

who

such as were of importance before

laid

the sovereign.

Not

far

from the city wall

about a mile

in

of steps

all

flight

is

a beautiful lake, called Kokarea,

circumference, lined with

around.

The

hewn

stone,

and a

four entrances, which were pro-

bably formerly approached through avenues of the red tamarindtree, are

is

adorned with cupolas, supported by

pillars; in the centre

an island, with a summer-palace, and gardens shaded by the

131
red tamarind; a rare tree, equal in size and beauty to the

common

tamarind, with a fruit far more delicious, and sent in presents as

a confection to distant parts of India.

Among

and the gardens neglected.

ing was a very

up

in

uncommon

The palace was

a variety of trees

in ruins,

still

remain-

species of the palmyra; after growing

a straight stem, to a considerable height, like others of that

genus,

it

shot forth upwards of forty

branches, with a tuft of

spreading leaves at the extremity of each branch, like the

borassus flabellifonnis: this tree

by most

visited

travellers,

who,

is

common

esteemed a great curiosity, and

like myself,

had perhaps never

seen any but the usual palmyra, or brab-tree, which has only

branches and leaves on the summit of a straight single stem, forty

or

fifty

feet

from the ground.

bridge

of forty-eight arches

formed a communication with the island, which,

rounding ornaments, was

At a

short

distance

like all

the sur-

a state of dilapidation.

in

from Kokarea

is

the

Dutch burying-

ground, containing several handsome tombs, in the style of the

Mogul mausoleums, covered by a dome supported by

Some

of the inscriptions are dated at the

commencement of

seventeenth century, when the Dutch had a factory at

abad, which has been long withdrawn.

The English

time carried on a considerable trade at

towns
the

in Guzerat.

We

in the

the

Ahmed-

at the

same

most of the opulent

were shewn the spot

Company's factory stood

pillars.

year 1614;

in this
this

although often doubted, confirms an occurrence

in

city

where

circumstance,

Orme's frag-

ments of the English trade at Surat, that in November 1613,

Messrs. Aldworlh and VVithington, two of the Company's se.vants,
travelled from Surat, to

examine the marts of Baroche, Jamboseer,

132
Brodera, Neriad, and

Ahmedabad; where they

received intelli-

gence that three English ships had arrived at Lanreebunder on

Thither Withington

Indus.

the river

safety with a caravan, which

day they met an

He

was attacked by the

returned, after

many

whom

he

a nation of robbers.

calls

by the route of Cam-

disasters, to Surat,

Mr. Aldworlh had

bay and Baroche.

Ahmedabad, and Baroche; he had

coolies: the next

Mogul, with two hundred and

officer of the great

heads of these coolies,

fifty

proceeded, travelling for

also

arrived there from

hired a house at each of those

places on the Company's account, and

left

brokers and domes-

provide goods, until the factors from Surat should

tics to

examine them, and

come

to

settle the prices.

other European merchants, at that time carried

The Dutch, and

on an extensive trade at Ahmedabad, where the greatest variety

of the rich gold and silver-flowered silks and satins, called kim-

and

cobs

allichars,

were manufactured,

together with silk

and

cotton goods of almost every description; the trade in indigo was

very extensive; the best

and

inlaid

mother of

workmen

pearl,

steel,

gold, ivory, enamel,

met with great encouragement;

also celebrated for excellent paper,

boxes, and ornaments.

in

Few

and lackered ware,

traces of this

it

was

in cabinets,

commerce now remain,

except a few small manufactures of chintz and kimcobs; and

some of lackercd-work, ornamented

escritoirs,

viously

boxes and palanquins, only

bespoke.

sandal-wood

They began and

escriloir,

all

gold and

made when

finished for

silver

for

they are pre-

me

an elegant

lackered with black and gold, in ten days.

Paintings in water-colours by
are in

with

modern

artists at

Ahmedabad,

respects very inferior to those of the portrait

and minia-

133
many

lure painters in the seventeenth century, of which 1 have

beautiful specimens by artists of

Agra and Delhi;

often deficient

proportion and perspective, but probably faithful in general

in

character and physiognomy, and exquisitely finished.

mistaken idea that the

Mahomedan

in animated nature.

The Turks

been otherwise

Among

I believe sometimes

Persia,

and the northern

it

make

ob-

has always

capitals

of India.

the munificent acts of the imperial Akber, he employed

artists to

make

his court; they

as the

in

is

do not imitate subjects

artists

from particular passages in the Koran;

jections,

It

portraits of all the principal

were bound together

Ayeen Akbery expresses

omrahs and

in a thick

officers in

volume, wherein,

" the past are kept in lively

it,

re-

membrance, and the present are insured immortality."

It is not

probable that portraits were often taken of females,

especially those of distinction.

ral

jealousy of

Oriental manners, and the natu-

Mahomedans, would

generally prevent

it

yet

have seen a few pictures, drawn from Mogul and Persian beauties,
in a

costume

like that of the

the dress of the high

Mogul lady

Mahomedan

described atSurat; and

females at

Ahmedabad, almost

exactly resembles that of an eastern beauty upwards of two thou-

sand years ago.

with

oil;

linen,

" I washed thee with water, and anointed thee

clothed thee with broidered-work, girded thee with fine

and covered thee with

silk:

I also

decked thee with orna-

ments, put bracelets upon thine hands, and a chain on thy neck:
I

put a jewel on thy forehead, earrings

crown upon thine head.

silver;

in thine ears,

and a beautiful

Thus wast thou decked with gold and

thy raiment was of fine linen,

silk,

and embroidery

thou

wast perfect for comeliness, and thy renown went forth for thy

134
Thou

beauty!

didst eat fine flour,

exceedingly beautiful."

and wast

the figurative language of Eze-

is

a description of those noble Mogul

It is literally

lately mentioned,

who privately

barter their jewels for bread,

grain.

oil,

daughter ofZion, the lady of beauty, the capital of

kiel for the

Judea.

Such

and honey, and

These women are not

sent out their nurses and duennas to

and

ornaments

their

like the

for

temporary nurses

common

such as Savary mentions in Egypt, and

families of Hindoslan,

women

a measure of

in

Europe, but

in the

respectable

may

where peculiar circumstances

a female of that description, who

is

require

not looked upon as a stranger,

but becomes one of the family, and passes the remainder of her
life in

the midst of the children she has suckled,

honoured and cherished

like

befriend their

who brought

men
and

during

European or

unhappy

whom

she

is

a second mother.

These elderly matrons make no objection

character, whether

by

a man of

to visit

native, especially

mistress or her children.

when they can

Such were they

the agate mirror and jewels to the English o-entle-

my

visit at

Ahmedabad, who lamented

dignified sorrow of their ladies with

pathetic strains of sacred writ: "

little

the misfortunes

variation from these

The daughters of Zion

the ground, and keep silence; they have cast dust

upon

sit

upon

their heads,

and covered themselves with sackcloth; the

virgins of

hang down

thing shall I take to

their

heads to the ground.

witness for thee? unto what shall I

Jerusalem?
thee,

O virgin

swoon
is

Who

What

liken thee,

daughter of

can heal thee, and with what shall

daughter of Zion?

The

comfort

children and the suckling

in the streets of the city; they say

corn and wine?"

Jerusalem

unto their mothers, where

135
At Sercaze, a sacred

Ahmedabad,

place, five miles from

very grand musjed, which

is

said to be an

is

exact imitation of the

temple at Mecca, so highly revered by every pious mussulman.

also contains

at

It

a complete model of the kaaba, a square building

Mecca, which the ancient Arabians used

to adorn with the best

compositions of their poets, written in golden characters on silk

hangings.

This building was highly venerated by the Arabians,

who supposed
worship of the

it

to

have been the

True God.

dition cherished

by

his

first

Mahomed

place consecrated to the

availed himself of this tra-

countrymen, to establish the hodge, or an-

nual pilgrimage to the holy spot; thither

were enjoined, at one period of their

solemn acts of religion.

commercial designs

and new

The

artful

all his

devout followers

to perform the

lives,

prophet had also

most

political

and

to accomplish, which, until the late revolutions

sectaries in Arabia,

were very successful

thither resorted

large caravans of camels, laden with valuable productions from

every part of the east

and the annual

the Greatest mart in the world.

The

metals of Europe; spices, gems,

silks,

fair at

Mecca was perhaps

woollens, cloths, and useful

muslins, and

all

the coarser

cottons of India; ivory, slaves, and gold-dust from Africa; together

with

all

the luxuries and comforts from other places, were sold or

bartered at Mecca, and returned by the caravans to every part of

Asia.

The number of hodgees,

or pilgrims,

who annually assem-

bled there, frequently exceeded two hundred thousand.

my

residence in India, the nabob of Arcot and other

princes, sent ships annually to the

Red

Sea, to

During

mahomedan

accommodate

pilgrims of both sexes proceeding to the sacred shrines at

the

Mecca

136
and Medina, with a passage

to

Judda, the port where they gene-

rally landed.

Among other
day

at

exeursions from

Ahmedabad, we spent a delightful

Shah-Bauhg, or the royal garden, a summer palace two miles

pleasantly situated on the banks of the Sabermatty.

from the

city,

Although

built near

two hundred years before, by the emperor Shah

Jehan, when sultan Currim, viceroy of Guzerat,

lent repair.

fine

The

it

was

still

in excel-

saloon, spacious and lofty as the building, was

room; the wall covered with

shell

chunam, a white

stucco,

polished like the finest marble, and the cieling painted in small

compartments with much

The angular

taste.

fom below and

small octagon rooms,

as

rate stairs to each; they are finished in the

the walls like alabaster,

flat

roof

commands an

and the

recesses lead to eight

many
same

above, with sepastyle as the saloon,

cielings neatly

embossed.

The

extensive prospect, the substructions form

a cool retreat under the saloon and a surrounding platform, orna-

mented with small canals and

fountains.

These substructions are

on a level with the flower-garden, which reached to the river; every

thing appears to have been elegant and splendid.

It

the reign of Shah Jehan that architectural taste in the

structures of India attained

its

was during

mahomedan

acme.

The park and pleasure-grounds of Shah-Bauhg extended from

the palace to the city gales; they were enclosed by

which

is

now

in ruins

fountains, aqueducts,

The zenana,

little

high wall,

of the gardens remains except broken

and a few

or sultana's

-a

trees;

some of

foreign appearance.

palace, was situated at a

little

distance

from the royal mansion, on the bank of the Sabermatty, with sepa-

s
s

fc

m
-.

n
-

fr

137
rate gardens, baths,

The apartments

and fountains.

and attendants of the court were

still

for the officers

Every

further detached.

thing indicates the taste and judgment of Shah Jehan, in planning

lovely retreat from the cares of royalty.

this

scene of solitude and ruin, except the palace

seems

of females:

now

The zenana

itself.

accommodate a

number

whether Shah Jehan entertained the same

political

to

sentiments on this subject as his grandfather Akber,

to

exhibits a

great

have been intended

to

It

the purpose;

but

it

may

not

is

foreign

be irrelevant to give Abul

Fazel's account of Akber's seraglio, both for

its

novelty and good

sense.
intelligent writer allows " that there

That

inconvenience arising from a number of

is

in general

women; but

his majesty,

out of the abundance of his wisdom and prudence, has

subservient to public advantage;

for

a great

made

it

by contracting marriages

with the daughters of the princes of Hindostan and other countries,

he secures himself against insurrections at home, and forms

powerful alliances abroad."

He

then describes the haram as an

enclosure of such an immense extent, as to contain a separate

room

for every

thousand;

one of the women, whose number exceeded

who were

ployment assigned

to

woman was
command of

five

divided into companies, and a proper em-

each individual.

Over each of these comand one was selected

panies a

appointed (darogha)

for the

the whole, in order that the affairs of the

haram might be conducted with the same

government as the other departments of the

regularity
state.

and good

Every one

re-

ceived a salary according to her merit: the pen cannot measure

the extent of the emperor's largesses, but the ladies of the

VOL. III.

first

138
quality received from one thousand to sixteen

hundred rupees

per month; and the servants, according to their rank, from two

And whenever any

rupees to fifty-one, monthly.

of

women wanted any

of this multitude

thing, they applied to the treasurer of the

haram, who according to their monthly stipend took care their

wants should be supplied.

The

inside of the

haram was guarded

by women, and the most confidential were placed about the royal

The eunuchs watched immediately on

apartments.
gate,

and

at

the

outside

proper distances were placed the rajepoots,

and

porters of the gates;

and on the outside of the enclosure, the om-

rahs, the ahdeeans,

and other troops mounted guard, according

to their rank."

The gardens of

the zenana at Shah-bhaug, on the banks of the

Sabermatty, must have been peculiarly delightful.

sionate admirer of water, shade,

and verdure, especially

climate; but those pleasure-grounds,

and

am
in

a pas-

a sultry

the Asiatic gardens I

all

ever saw, were deficient in the verdant lawns, artless shrubberies,

and varied scenery, which when attempted

France, Italy, and Germany,

gardens are often called the Garden of

medans

in

although

it

be introduced in

always found dignified by the

appellation of "Jardins a l'Angloise."

the term intended;

to

In Hindostan the royal

God

perhaps Paradise

is

must be allowed that the Maho-

every thing affect to ascribe their blessings to the bene-

volence of the Deity.

The

princely gardens at Shah-bhaug

cypresses, cedars, palmetos, sandal,

and

tamarind, and other spreading fruit

still

boast of

some noble

cassia trees, with mano-o,

trees.

The

large

and small

aqueducts, admirably contrived for conveying water to every tree

139
and bed

in

the garden, with

the surrounding oriental scenery,

all

minutely resembled a picture drawn by the son of Sirach; "

upon

exalted like a cedar in Libanus, and as a cypress tree

mountain of Hermon;

a rose in Jericho; as a

fair olive in a

by the water.

tree

was

came out

palm-tree in Engaddi, and

pleasant

field,

and

as a plane-

odour as myrrh, galbanum, and frank-

brook from a

as a

into a garden; to water

my

tall

the

gave a sweet smell like cinnamon and aspa-

lathus; I yielded a pleasant

incense.

like

was

my

river,

and

as a conduit

best garden, and abundantly to water

garden bed."

How

may

these oriental portraits

not determine.

doubly

felt their

suit in

and beauty

truth

spot where I wrote them; although for the

dence in Hindostan

Such

as

first

can-

in the sultry

time during

my

resi-

was then on the borders of the temperate zone.

above described by an ancient

The same

fection of an eastern garden.

same flowers adorn

the

a cold climate

their

writer,

trees

is still

the per-

shade their

retreats,

borders; but especially the rose of

Sharon, or the Damascus rose, which from the age of Solomon to

the present day has been an universal favourite; and formerly, a

considerable quantity of ottar of roses, the most delicate of

perfumes, was
usual

made from

method of making

calyxes,

the rosaries near

this

and put them into a

to

is

it is

air; the

distilled, will

be highly scented

next morning the ottar or essential

extracted from the flowers,

cles,

gather the roses with their

then poured into shallow earthen vessels, and ex-

posed to the nocturnal

oil,

The

with nearly double their weight

still,

of water; which, when sufficiently

with roses

Ahmed-abad.

all

swimming on

the surface;

is

found

it is

in small

congealed parti-

carefully collected

and pre-

140
One hundred pounds

served in small glass bottles.

dom

yield

more than from two

essence, which

difficult to

is

it

to three

ounces of

of roses

sel-

this precious

procure unadulterated; as the dis-

frequently put sandal-wood, scented-grass, and other oily

tillers

plants into the

which depreciate the value and debase the

still,

fragrance of the rose.

The genuine

ottar

is

of different colours,

sometimes green, frequently of a bright yellow like amber, and

often of a reddish hue;

very good. There

all

which remains

the rose water

may be

other methods of extracting

is

generally

this first

of

perfumes, in different countries.

About

a mile from Shah-bhaug,

a large well, or rather a

is

noble reservoir, constructed by a nurse to one of the kings of

and

zerat,

still

A grand

called the " Nurse's well."

flight

and

leads to the water, through double rows of pillars

elegantly finished, far below the surface of the earth.

voir

is all

of

hewn

stone, surrounded

by

circular steps

and a dome supported by

these galleries

communicate with

general magnificence.

expended on
nurse,

this

and others

pilasters,

This reser-

columns over each;

light

thirty

of steps

ascended by

galleries,

the principal stairs,

Upwards of

Gu-

and add

to the

thousand pounds were

munificent work; which some attribute to the

to a rich dancing-girl,

who erected

duce of one of her ancle-jewels; the other she

is

it

with the pro-

reported to have

thrown into the water, to reward the search of the diver; from
that

deep abyss

it

has never been recovered.

This ridiculous

anecdote appears very inconsistent with the good sense and benevolence of the female,

who not

only dug this beautiful reservoir,

but also founded a handsome mosque near

deposited under a costly tomb.

it,

where her body

is

141

many

In

parts of Hindostan are

by the Mahomedan

built

They

nurses.

structures, in

princes, near the

How

memory

of those,

interesting

is

who

on being betrothed

event

nurse,

is

annals.

to Isaac,

who never

it

with maternal anxiety watched

has been from time

the inverview which

between Ulysses and Euriclea!

by her

sepulchres of their

are excited by a grateful affection to erect these

over their helpless infancy; thus

rial.

mosques and mausoleums,

left

Homer has described

When Rebecca
we read

immemo-

too left her parents,

that she was

accompanied

her until the day of her death

which

not deemed unworthy of being recorded in the patriarchal

" Here Deborah, Rebecca's nurse, died, and was buried

under an oak; and the name of

Oak of weeping."
Ahmedabad was not

it

was called Allon-bachuth, or

the "

always the capital of Guzerat, which

was once a kingdom under the Hindoo

rajahs,

who kept

their

court at Narwalla, a city renowned in the ancient history of Hin-

dostan for wealth, population, and extent.

mentioned, was always esteemed

tiful

countries in India;

it

among

Guzerat, as already

the most

fertile

and beau-

was one of the early conquests of the

Afghans, a hardy race from the mountains which separate Persia

from Hindostan; they are often called Patans.

These invaders

established the empire of Ghisni in the 36lst year of the

Mahome-

corresponding with the 975th year of the Christian

dan

hejira,

this

empire, in

its

aera;

most nourishing period, comprehended nearly

half the kingdoms of Asia.

The Hindoos,

naturally indolent, and, under the influence of

their benevolent institutions, fond of peace,

were unable

to with-

stand the incursions of those northern enthusiasts; who, impelled

142
by bigotry and rapacity, rushed
Although

plains.

common

upon

their fruitful

the different rajahs sometimes united in

cause, and

taineers found

like a torrent

raised

India

immense armies,

an easy conquest.

Its

the

moun-

fierce

and

largest cities

strongest fortresses were alternately subdued, the

destroyed, their temples purified, and

the

Hindoo images

dedicated to the unity

oi

Alia.

These northern invaders continued

their depredations for

many

years against the rajahs of Delhi, Ajmere, and the neighbouring

kingdoms, and always overpowered the Hindoo armies by

superior

skill

and matchless courage.

When

their

the Afghans poured

with such irresistible fury, the Hindoo princes promised obe-

down

dience,

and submitted

to

pay a

tribute; but

becoming impatient

of the yoke, they again assisted each other, and united in a general revolt.

cruelties;
rians, " to

This caused their implacable enemies to renew their

and, to use the emphatical language of the eastern histo-

drown themselves, and

their

devoted victims, in the

crimson torrent of revenge."

The
cote,

gold, jewels,

and wealth of every kind, found

Somenaut, and other celebrated temples,

lation.

Sultan

Mahmood made

thirteen cruel

peditions from Ghisni, against the

which he carried

to his capital

three hundred and

and precious

fifty

effects, to

Hindoo

a spoil of

is

Nagra-

beyond calcu-

and successful ex-

rajahs.
fifty

at

From one

of

thousand captives,

elephants, with gold, diamonds, pearls,

an incredible amount.

generally secreted in the temples:

These riches were

hollow images were filled with

jewels; gold and silver, which had been accumulating for ages, were

buried under the pavement.

At

the destruction of the temple of

143
Somenaut, the brahmins offered the Sultan a large sum to spare
which he refused; saying he preferred the

the principal idol,

of " the destroyer of idols," to the "

title

of idols/' and brandish-

seller

ing his mace, inflicted so violent a blow on the image, that

broke

in pieces,

and there issued from

Mahomedan

an amazing collection of

it

The Sultan was immediately congratu-

the most precious jewels.

on the purity and

lated

by

zeal;

and from thence assumed the additional

one

his

in their

estimation,

it

courtiers,

of Bhool Skikun,

title,

the

effect

of his

a glorious

" Destroyer of

Idols."

Such were the

effects

wretched Hindoos,
fatal

of the

Mahomedan

in the tenth century;

invasions on the

and such are now the

consequences of modern conquests and depredations by Hin-

doos, over

splendid

the descendants of those

kingdoms of Hindostan.

the northern

cities in

very invaders, in

all

the

Delhi,

Lahor, and Agra, are, like Ahmedabad, a picture of desolation and

despair; realizing those pathetic stanzas in the tears ofKhorassan.
" The mosque no more
" Constraint

"

A stable now,

" Nor can

" For

is

found

all

are slain,

her minarets levell'd with the ground.

Pity, ah pity, those,

"

"

where dome nor porch

Khorassania's criers

" Seek

the savage foe proclaim his reign,

" And all

"

admits the pious race

they yield to beasts the holy place,

who

oft in vain

suppliant, drooping nature to sustain,

A scanty portion

of the coarsest corn

Alas how alter'd, since with sensual air,

" And pamper'd pride, they loath'd the sweetest fare,
" And tum'd from costly delicates with scorn.
!

144
"

Pity,

" No

ah

Pity,

Such

are

to joy,

mourn.

night and day their hapless fate to

who

forc'd

" Have chang'd

"

whom, dead

soothing thoughts engage, nor cause employ,

" But
"

pity, those

O sad

by

sullen Fortune's frown,

bed of straw

for

transition,

their

couch of down;

and estate forlorn

!"

by a

the sad consequences of war, directed

and power.

thirst

for honour, wealth,

sions,

and influenced by an avaricious

fatal

Fearful of such convuldisposition, the

Hindoos

frequently deposited their wealth in the bowels of the earth; a

practice

still

continued

by

their

The Afghan and

posterity.

Mogul

princes, on the contrary, appropriated their riches to

better

purposes, in the

science.

They adorned

encouragement of
the imperial

cities,

literature,

and other

much

art,

and

large towns,

with splendid palaces and mosques, triumphal arches, extensive

aqueducts, and
elegant

commodious caravansaries; which although

proportion

and

taste

Greece and Rome, might

inferior

vie with

to

them

in

works of

public

the

in

magnitude and dura-

bility.

Thejumma
mood,
floors,

musjed, or grand mosque, built by sultan

deserves a particular

description.

The

and minarets, w ere of the choicest marble,

r

walls,

columns,

granite,

and por-

phyry, inlaid with agates and precious stones;

within were of gold and silver, with hangings
richest manufacture,

the

ornaments

and carpets of the

and large chandeliers of massive gold;

plendid temple was called the Celestial Bride.

founded a large

Mah-

college,

and an extensive

containing a variety of curiosities from

all

Near

it

this

the sultan

library, with a

museum

parts of the world; he

145
also

endowed lands

whom

and learned men,

phers,

and several of

capital;

Such were the

menced

his successors

effects

century,

their

emulated

his

when

the

some of the northern

1397, the celebrated

the lame, or Tamerlane, crossed the Indus,

We

must not judge of

from Rowe's tragedy of Tamerlane; whatever

is

it

and murdering
intolerant

ambition,

districts

Tim ur-lung,

and

laid

this

conqueror

may

waste

be the stage

not founded upon truth: history represents him with

an almost unexampled
cities,

example.

Moguls, or Mogul Tartars, com-

ravages, and entered

the adjacent provinces.

effect,

to the

of the Afghan victories over the Hindoos;

of the Afghan empire; and in

Timur

munificence attracted

his

maintained their conquests until the end of the

these invaders
thirteenth

maintenance of the students, philoso-

for the

depopulating kingdoms, burning

ferocity,

their inhabitants,
zeal,

to

and sanguinary

gratify his boundless

disposition

Mogul

annals paint him grasping the empire of Hindostan through seas

of blood.
the

I will relate

many which

only one instance of Timur's cruelty from

blast his laurels.

When

he was attacked by the

Afghans before the citadel of Delhi, there were upwards of an

hundred thousand prisoners

On

the Indus.

faction

put

on

all

this

in his

camp, taken

after

he crossed

hearing that some of them had expressed

occasion, the

above the age of

inhuman tyrant

fifteen to

satis-

issued an order to

death; on that day of horror

the greater part of those miserable captives were destroyed.

After

the conquest of Delhi, he ordered a massacre no less cruel, on the

wretched inhabitants of that devoted

neither age, nor sex, nor condition.
the

title

VOL.

city, in

which he spared

Such conduct procured him

of Hillak Khan, the

" destroying prince;" yet this

III.

is

146

man

the

represented on the English stage

every

with

princely

virtue
" The
" The

great avenger of a groaning world

" Well

Still

" As

did he wear the sacred cause of justice

" Upon

"

scourge of lawless pride, and dire ambition.

Approving heaven

his prosperous sword.

crown'd the righteous warrior with success;

if it said,

" Thou most

go

like

forth,

and be

me, of all

my

champion,

my works

Howe's Tamerlam

below."

Although Timur-lung and other tyrants made such horrid de-

Mogul annals do not date

vastation in Hindostan, the

its final

conquest until 1525; when sultan Baber, a descendant of Timur,

seated himself on the

of the empire.
in

musnud

still

and extended

reign

its

independence

of sultan

for

Mahmood,

yielded to Akber, son of

Mogul

command

his conquests,

as there

some of the smaller Afghan governments unsubdued;

and the kingdom of Guzeiat, with

served

and assumed the

His son Ilumaioon, a mild prince, succeeded him

the imperial dignities,

were

at Delhi,

empire.

From

its

capital

Ahmedabad,

pre-

fifty

years longer; when, during the

the

last

of the Pathan dynasty,

it

Humaioon, and became a part of the

that period

it

formed one of the twelve

grand soubahs, and was generally governed by a son of the emperor, as soubah-dar or viceroy; sometimes that
ferred

upon a

favourite omrah,

under the

honour was con-

title

of nawab, or

nabob.

In the beginning of the eighteenth century, when many of

the distant provinces shook
peror,

oft*

their allegiance to the

and these nabobs established themselves

Mogul em-

as independent

147
princes, the governor of

Ahmedabad and Cambay

followed the

example, and assumed the sovereignty of that part of Guzerat;

which continued

Mogul

last

in

Ahmedabad

prince in

under Kagonauth

rattas

Row

a small

conquered
fled lo

it

Cambay, and submitted

humiliating condito the

tribute,

was the nabob of Cambay during

Mohman Khan

Mah-

about the middle of

territory, subject to the

paying an annual choute, or

tion of

was the

for during his reign, the

The nabob

the eighteenth century.

to the limits of

Mohman Khan, who

succession to

Mahrattas.

my

several

visits to that capital.

continued under the Mahratta government until

Ahmedabad

when an English army, commanded by general Goddard,

1779?

took

it

by storm; and,

for political reasons, the city

was ceded

diate territory,

to

with

its

imme-

Futty Singh, a Hindoo chieftain of

Guzerat, leaving an English garrison in the citadel, which they

were
in

in possession of

1783

it

was restored

I could
to

its

on

my

arrival;

at the termination of the

war

to the Mahrattas.

not describe this celebrated city, without adverting

former splendour, and the cause of

its

decay, which im-

perceptibly led

me

dostan, under

ancient rajahs, and the subsequent governments

its

of the Pathan and

to

an outline of the general history of Hin-

Mogul

princes, during the latter dynasty,

the empire enjoyed tranquillity, arts,science, agriculture, and

factures,

manu-

were encouraged, and the blessings of peace amply

fused, even under a despotic government.

Few

perused with more delight than that of Akber,

titled

when

to the character of Great,

bestowed;

his

name,

than

like Alfred's,

fills

reigns can

who

many on whom
the

mind with

is
it

dif-

be

more enhas been

delight; he

148
forms a striking contrast to most Asiatic sovereigns. During a reign

made

of more than forty-nine years this great prince

and happiness of
concern
his

empire the supreme object of

minister,

Bheer Bhul, he established such wise

have seldom been surpassed

in the civil or military

ments of the most enlightened sovereigns.

Ayeen Akbery,

or " the Institutes of the

institu-

depart-

Whoever peruses

conduct both of the monarch and

whole system of jurisprudence.
age of sixty-three,

in

the year

The former died

;

at Agra, at the

the latter was murdered on

returning from the Deccan, three years before, by

sorrow of his royal master

to the inexpressible

am

The
in his

the

and pervaded the

his minister,

1605

the

emperor Akber," must

be pleased with the wisdom and humanity which regulated

fate I

his

and, assisted by his excellent vizier, Abul Fazel, and

Hindoo

tions, as

his extensive

the welfare

some

banditti,

of Bheer Bhul's

ignorant.

of Abul Fazel shine conspicuously

piety and humility

preface to the

Ayeen Akbery, which thus commences:

In the name of the most merciful god?

"
u

O Lord!

"

"

Unknown are thy beginning, and thy

In thee both beginning and end are

"

The name of both

S{

It is sufficient that I offer

all

thy mysteries are impenetrable.

end.
lost!

are lost in the mansions of thy eternity

up

my

thanksgiving, and meditate

" in astonishment.

"

My

Abul

ecstasy

is

sufficient

Fazel's character of

concludes,

is

grateful, just

knowledge of Thee

Akber, with which

and

beautiful.

!"

his

sublime preface

149
" Praise be unto
times,

is

God! Akber,

the exalted

endowed with such laudable

exaggeration to say he surpasses

all

wisdom he discovers

the light of

monarch of our own

dispositions, that

it is

no

From

the sages of antiquity.

ranks of men; and by the

all

rectitude of his conduct, he adds splendour to his understanding,

by the performance of laudable

measure the extent of

Who

actions.

his virtues

They

expression, but even exceed conception.

is it

that

are not only

It

it

is

able to

beyond

better that I

make

not the attempt, but point out a few intelligible wonders, by setting
forth his regulations for the household, for the ordering of the

army, and

for the prosperity

things depends the glory of a

gift for the intelligent,

who

of the kingdom; upon which three

monarch; hereby preparing a

rich

seek after knowledge."

So highly respected was Akber among the Hindoos, who wish

to appropriate every thing to themselves, that in Wilford's Essays,

we

find they insist

ration.

Akber was a Hindoo,

The proximity of

lived, has forced

them, however, to account for this in the follow-

die

first,

in his

the only

and be born again.

a desperate tapasya, wishing

knew

famous emperor

the time in which this

become emperor of India; and

him was to

in a former gene-

There was a holy brahmin, who wished very much

ing manner.
to

that

present generation.

to

For

practicable
this

way

purpose he

remember then every

for

made

thing he

This could not be fully granted,

but he was indulged with writing on a brass plate a tew things

which he wished more particularly

to

remember; then he was

directed to bury the plate, and promised that he would recollect

the place in the next generation.

name, went

Mucunda,

to Allahabad, buried the plate,

for

that was his

and then burned him-

150
nine months after he was born in the character of Akber;

self:

who, us soon
easily

as he

ascended the throne, went

Lo Allahabad,

found the spot where the brass plate was buried.

Hindoos claim

Mahomed and Akber

the Persians of old,

who

as their

and

Thus the

own; exactly

like

Alexander the Great was the

insisted that

son of one of their kings; so that, after

all,

they were forced to sub-

mit to their countrymen only.

Akber was succeeded by Selim

name of Jehangire;
to

his

son,

emperor appointed

this

who

his son sultan

be viceroy of Guzerat, and conferred on him the

Jehan, "

kins,

It

sent on an

embassy

the First, king of England.

About

lo the

of Shah-

Mogul

became

Ahmedabad

writers,

millions of inhabitants;

Mogul

court,

that time the soubah

of Guzerat was in a very flourishing condition;

lieve the

Currain

was during the reign of Jehangire, in 1615,

Thomas Roe was

by James

title

of the world," which he retained after he

emperor, in 1628.
that Sir

then took the

if

we

are to be-

then contained near three

should imagine one third of the number

When I was there the}' were reduced to

hundred thousand, of whom two parts were Mahomedans,

to be nearer the truth.

three

and the

rest

Hindoos.

During the reign of Shah Jehan,

zebe, successively enjoyed

a splendid court

and there

at

fostered

his sons,

the soubahship

Morad and Auruno-.

of Guzerat, and kept

Ahmedabad, which they

all

foreign conquests, and

The Mogul emperors

the arts of peace.

from Akber to Aurungzebe, who died

in

greatly improved,

1707, although fond of

of humbling other princes, in their

own

dominions encouraged agriculture and commerce, patronized the

arts

and

sciences,

and distributed impartial

justice, to the best of

151
their abilities, in the remotest districts of their extensive empire.

now adorn

In their davs arose those magnificent structures which

the northern cities of Hindostan;

mausoleums

lately described,

and Shah Jehan, who

were

the Sabermatty, erected the Taje

The most splendid

my

a state during
give

some idea of

princes, I shall

is still

erected by those emperors

Mahal

the

palaces at

visit

all

the summer-palace on the banks of

built

favourite Sultana, which

and

the palaces, aqueducts,

at Agra, in

memory

of a

wonder of the eastern world.

Ahmedabad were

in too ruinous

to furnish a sufficient description;

but

to

the time of the imperial

these structures in

mention the dewane khass, one of the

halls in the

palace of Shah Allum, described by Francklin; which, although

repeatedly stripped and plundered by successive invaders,

" This building

tains great beauty.

length,

by

The roof

forty in breadth.

a hundred and

is

is flat,

still

fifty feet

re-

in

supported bj numef

rous columns of fine white marble, which have been richly orna-

mented with

inlaid flowered

work of different coloured

stones.

The

cornices and borders have been decorated with a frize

and sculp-

was formerly incrusted with a

rich foliage

tured work.

of

silver,

The

cieling

throughout

its

and the delicacy of the

Avhole extent;

inlaying in the compartments of the walls

Around the

exterior of the

dewan

is

The

terrace of this building

of marble, and the whole

the same material.

The

is

be admired.

upon a ground of white

marble: " If there be a paradise upon earth

this!"

to

khass, in the cornice, are the

following lines, written in letters of gold,

it is

much

crowned

is

this is it;

composed of

it

is

this;

large slabs

at top with four cupolas of

royal baths built

by Shah Jehan near the

152
khass, consisting of three large rooms, surmounted by

dewan

domes

of white marble, are lined with the same, and ornamented with
beautiful borders of flowers,

worked with

and other

cornelians,

stones."

During the splendid reigns of the imperial house of Timur,

we behold despotism

in

rather an engaging form; in cultivating

the arts of peace, she assumes her mildest aspect; yet absolute

power,

in

its

consequences.
has

in

it

his

must be attended with many unhappy

best estate,
prince,

power.

who

wishes to rule with clemency, rarely

Shortly after the royal diadem adorns his

brow, some confederacy

is

formed against him, by sons, brothers,

and he thinks himself under the necessity of

or near relations,

putting them to death, or depriving them of sight, to prevent his

own

destruction from a successor

who

is

too soon to feel the

thorns so thickly intermingled with the roses of royalty.

These horrid crimes cast a gloom over

paints the

way

to the

musnud through a

oriental annals

No

in general

governed

monarch ever ascended a more sanguinary throne than

Aurungzebe; we

start

and the cruel

father,

history

sea of blood; yet, after

being firmly established, the Mogul princes

well.

with horror at the treatment of his aged

fate

of his wretched brothers;

but when

these obstacles were removed, few sovereigns have displayed (ex-

cept in his bigotted persecution of the Hindoos) more justice and

clemency than Aurungzebe, during a long reign of

many

fifty

years:

parts of his character form a pattern for sovereigns in milder

governments.
sion of

But

since the usurpations in the empire, the inva-

Nadir Shah, and the conquests of the Mahrattas, which

153
commenced under
few traces of

his

Sevajee, during the reign of Aurungzebe, very

excellent regulations exist;

we can only lament

over their ruins.

and mean

I shall not attempt a detail of the cruel oppressions

now

advantages of the Mahratta pundits and governors,

dispersed

throughout Guzerat, and occupying these magnificent remains of

Mogul splendour. Their

severe exactions have already rendered the

of Ahmedabad, once so flourishing and delightful,

district

al-

most a desert; and thousands of industrious subjects are annually

leaving

to seek protection

it,

under milder governments.

I wish to write impartially, and

a favourable

light:

be hated by an Englishman,

to

Its

tesquieu,

must be

tyranny.

That admirable writer

frightful

picture,

by a

confirmed

timid

slight

asserts, that

despotic governments;

among a

nanimity

it

needs but

to

drawn by the penetrating Mon-

be seen.

ciple of all

not to paint despotism in

we

spiritless

observer of Asiatic

" Feaii

is

the prin-

are not to look for

mag-

people, where the prince

cannot impart a greatness which he does not himself possess;

for

him there

with

narchies

we behold

virtues

no such thing

as

glory.

It

is

in

mo-

the subjects encircling the throne, and cheered

by the irradiancy of
filling as it

is

the sovereign

were a larger space,

which adorn the

is

soul, not with

there

it

is,

that each person

capable of exercising those

independence, but with true

dignity and greatness."

This

is

one of the distinctions

in the Spirit of

Laws between

a limited monarchical, and a despotic government.

present constitution of things,

VOL.

III.

it

Yet, in the

must reluctantly be admitted

154
that the latter appears to be best adapted to the slavish

of Asiatics;

who

mate free-born
and

Rome

are strangers to the noble sentiments which ani-

which impelled the ancient heroes of Greece

souls,

magnanimous

their

to

exertions; and which, in sub-

sequent times, in our. own country, have inspired a

and a Russel, and

will still

" And now

Behold

while round the baleful storm extends,

" Behold our

" The

native land,

much-belov'd, the beauteous

" In peace
" Mid

"

still

and

beauty smile

sports,

" From

The

isle,

ruins, hurl'd,

See England yet survive the world

" From Truth's pure

\"

rest, in

states in flames,

" From hardy

from manly schools,

lore in Learning's bow'r,

equal law, alike that rules

People's will, the Monarch's pow'r

" From

Piety,

"

God, and knows no

Fears

" From

" From

whose

soul sincere

other fear

Loyalty, whose high disdain

" Turns from

the fawning, faithless train

deeds, the Historian records shew,

"

Valour's renown, and Freedom's glow

"

'Tis hence, that springs th'

" That

In Britain,

<*

The

still

unconquer'd

bids to Glory's heights aspire.

"

Hampden,

continue to inspire every real patriot

in his struggle for the preservation of British freedom

*'

mind*

the Sage's aim,

scholar's toil, the statesman's

famr

firs.

155
" The

flaming sword, are ready found

" To guard
"

Here,

And

in their last retreat are seen

" The
' '

the Paradise around

peaceful arts, the classic muse,

heavenly

" Her

Wisdom

holy calm does

here her light serene,

still

diffuse !"

W.

Smith.

CHAPTER

XXXI.

JOURNEY FROM AHMEDABAD TOCAMBAY;

CHARACTER OF THE NABOB
ANECDOTES OF THE MOGULS AND OTHER MAHOMEDANS
ILLUSTRATED FROM SACRED HISTORY.
1781.

"

Ah

what

avail

thy consecrated floods,

Thy citron breezes and thy palmy woods

What though the cassia breathes along thy shore,
And trickling manna adds its essenc'd store
;

Though gums

And

balsamic in thy valleys grow,

fragrant spices on thy borders

These choicest

glow

blessings a strong balance find

In one broad curse that seizes on thy kind:

For stern Oppression rules thy

fruitful plains

O'er thy devoted land a tyrant reigns

!"

CONTENTS.
Departure from Ahmedabad

visit

the mosques

and tombs

Peerana

at

Cusbattees on military tenure

Bursora
beauty of country depredations of
Cambay summer palaces and gardenspalace
Cutreturn
correspondence with Mirza Zummaun,
of Cambay,
nabob Siddees and attendants on
nabob
when disgraced by

Indiaportrait of an Asiatic sovereign

of
Nabob's
mindars and
of government purchase of
Dil Gusha gardens temple offountains luxury
entertainment
dancing songspoetry
evening
of an
Persian feast professed
Persian stanzas and
Cambay
India
of Scripture by modern customs
philosophy fatal tendency of
India David
entertainments
Hume discrimination
food and
Scripture explained from Homer,
presents of apparel a passage

Dolcah, a

large

and strong town

the

the Coolies

in

to

vizier

tek

the

the

cruelty

slavery in

ze-

slaves

officers

at

pavilions

oriental

girls

distichs

story-tellers

illustrations

at

in

infidelity in

Voltaire's

in the oriental

as to

in

and modern manners

liarity

inferior

of the

Asiatic females

tents

in

Hindost anfurther illustrationsfami-

mahomedans at great feasts

and pavilions

palanquins hackareefeast

of Ahasuerus contrasted with modern entertainments

larity

of ancient and modern despotism

Persian

story

intelligent

reflections on the journey.

subjection of

brahmins

princely

great

simi-

banquet from a

departure from

Cambay

CHAPTER

We

Ahmedabad

left

at day-break,

XXXI.

on the 8th of May; some

re-

freshing showers had fallen the preceding evening which laid the
dust,

and arrayed every object with a lovely verdure.

appear a

trifling

circumstance in Europe, but

This

affords

it

may

an un-

speakable pleasure to a traveller in the torrid zone, and at

season of the year

The

costly

is

this

very unusual.

mosques and mausoleums

at Peerana, a sacred spot,

seven miles from Ahmedabad, detained us a considerable time.

These tombs are of white marble, adorned with

rows of

false

pearl,

and wreaths of

and domes of the mouldering

flowers.

edifices

laid with small looking-glasses, agates,

than elegant, and very inferior

these,

The

walls,

pillars,

which contain them, are

and

cornelians,

to the shrines at

in-

more gaudy

Bettwah; although

from having been erected to the memory of mahomedan

saints, are held in higher veneration.

is

ostriches' esrgs,

extremely neat, and

manner of our

filled

tracery of the

windows

with stained glass from Europe, in the

cathedrals.

From Peerana we

rode

five miles

the banks of the Sabermatty, forded

VOL. HI.

The

through a pleasant country to

its

shallow stream, and conti-

162
nued our journey

to

Ahmedabad, where

Dolcah, a large town eighteen miles from

the offer of a summer-palaee, surrounded

charming garden, fountains, and groves of

to remain

till

fruit-trees,

by a

tempted us

the next morning.

Dolcah, a cusbah or town, inhabited by landholders on military

tenure,

mud

is

wall

four miles in circuit, not fortified, but surrounded by a

;

the gates are strong,

and the town furnishes twenty

thousand Cusbattees, who form a sort of equestrian

of them are warlike, of good family, and

cah

of property.

many
Dol-

celebrated for several spacious tanks lined with stone: one

is

of them

Near

men

militia;

is

adorned with an island and bridge

like that at

these lakes are several ruined palaces, mosques,

Kokarea.

and tombs,

The surrounding country was

once splendid and beautiful.

culti-

vated in large enclosures, planted with mango, tamarind, and kir-

ney

trees.

In times of tranquillity the Dolcah purgunna yields a

revenue of eight lacs of rupees, but the Coolies and Cotties already

mentioned were then so very troublesome, that cultivation only

flourished near the

appearance of a
bitants of

towns; the distant plains were assuming the

forest overrun with a variety of

Dolcah assured us

game.

that their farmers

were attended by warriors to keep off the banditti

village

we found

The inha-

and ploughmen
;

and near every

centinels stationed on the highest trees to give

notice of their approach.

As soon

as a

watchman

discovers a

troop of Cotties he blows a horn, or makes a loud cry, which

perfectly understood both

by the peasants and

cattle; this

is

is

re-

peated by other centinels, and in a few minutes the whole country

is alarmed ; swains, flocks, and herds hastily
retreat to the villages,

always surrounded by

mud

walls or strong milk-bush hedges.

163
and sometimes

both.

They

are occasionally surprised,

marauders have been known

a time.

The

tack the Cotties

when

cattle at

to drive

villagers,

their

off'

and these

two or three thousand

armed with bows and arrows,

numbers are not too formidable

at-

but

the latter being always on horseback have greatly the advantage.

On

account of these predatory incursions, our

little

escort of ca-

valry and Arabs, with the necessary attendants, generally occa-

sioned an alarm as

we

travelled through the country.

Early the next morning we

Dolcah, recrossed the Saber-

left

matty at Angolah, and reached the

village of Bursora, fifteen miles

from Dolcah, before the heat of the day.

tents,

and remained during the

Here we pitched our

In the evening a ride

sultry hours.

of twelve miles, over an open cultivated plain, brought us to the

gates of Cambay; the distance from thence to Ahmedabad, cither

Kairah as we went, or by Dolcah our returning

by the upper or lower road,

On both

is

only

route, distinguished

fifty miles.

roads I had an opportunity of revisiting the

encampments on

the plains of Naranseer,

some of those summer palaces were very

situation

and architecture.

them; he spent

site

of our

and the garden-houses

where we resided at head-quarters during the campaign

rat:

in

Guze-

beautiful, both in

The nabob did not occupy any

his retired hours entirely at Dil

Expanding, a more favourite

by

retreat.

ot

Gusha, or Heart-

Most of

those

summer-

houses are of a slight construction, and, like those in the chief's

garden at Baroche, are divided into three pavilions, at a considerable distance from each other, with canals, fountains, and flower-

gardens in the intermediate space.

They

by sloping verandas and purdoes,

or wet hangings of gunnies, a

are generally surrounded

164
sort

of cotton sackcloth, to keep them cool; while the palaces in

cities are built

and palaces,

of strong masonry, and ornamented at great expense;

and mosques, are often named

villas,

after their prin-

Baroche and Ahmedabad are the

cipal embellishments: thus at

Ivory and Silver Mosques; the Fountain of Pleasure, the Garden of

Delight, and

many

similar appellations distinguish the villas of the

moguls.

In the destruction of Samaria, we read in the prophet

Amos: "

I will smite the

winter-house with the summer-house, and

and the great houses

the houses of ivory shall perish,

shall

have an

end/'

In the Ayeen Akbery we read of a house

which consisted of nine

stories

and horses; the second

was appropriated
the

fifth

first

of Cuttek

for the elephants, camels,

and military

stores,

on

and other attendants;

for the guards

was occupied by the porters and watchmen; the

the third story

made

the

for the artillery

which were also quarters

fourth

in the city

for the several

the kitchens

artificers;

range; the sixth contained the rajah's public apart-

ments: the seventh was for the transaction of private business; in

the eighth the

women

At Surat
called Alia

to

it

stood a very ancient

rajah's sleep-

Mucund Deo,

Hindoo temple.

mentioned one of the nabob's gardens, which he

Bauhg, or the " Garden of God;" but

had been grievously oppressed

ful retreat,

and the ninth was the

This palace was built by rajah

ing apartments.

and contiguous

resided;

named

it

who

to procure his highness this beauti-

Zulam Bauhg, " the Garden of Oppression."

I fear that appellation

belonging to the

his subjects,

would be applicable

Cambay nabob, who

to

most of the palaces

ruled his people with a rod

of iron, and was guilty of the most cruel exactions.

165
Mild equal

'*

* And
"

rule, the

all-protecting

Sustains the

" These

are not theirs

kind host the vizier Mirza

and pathetic:

interesting

answer
I

to

letter

had written

to

dignity of

man,

Thomson.

!"

bad occasion

Zummaun, when

by the nabob

rously treated

Freedom, which alone

name and

Cambay

After leaving

government of laws,

his ungrateful

to

correspond with our

in disgrace,

master

and barba-

his letters

one as a specimen.

I insert

were

was

It

in

of mingled condolence and congratulation which

him

at the French-gardens in Surat, whither

he

had escaped from the nabob's tyranny, under the protection of

Sir Charles Malet, then the English resident at the nabob's court,

who made

the most generous exertions in behalf of the unfortunate

Persian, at the
species of

moment when

the

mute and

bow-string, or

murder equally private and expeditious, awaited him

the nabob's durbar.

With

the letter I

is

at Dilgusha,

the picture the vizier alludes to in the following

Translation of a Persian Letter from

Cambay,

to

in

had sent him a drawing

which he had requested of the Temple of Fountains,

which

some

Mirza Zummaun,

letter.

late Vizier at

James Forbes, Esq. dated from the French Gardens

at Surat, 17'th

March, 1782.

[After the usual Oriental compliments]

"

You keep an eye of pity and of favour on your

Zummaun; for this may Alia protect you, bless you
and shower down upon you the dew-drops of

friend

Mirza

with health,

felicity.

May

all

166

my

wishes for your happiness in this

life

be

you

fulfilled, until

ar-

rive at the celestial paradise!

"Your

kind

gleam of pleasure

to

my sorrowful

and most sincerely thank you

tunes;

convinces

it

me

reached

letter

me

good time, and afforded a

in

condoling with

for

that there are

not forget a friend in adversity.

still

men

cannot

nabob of Cainbay, who

suffered from the

the more

prove;

my

and the more

in the
tell

in

and death are

in the

Our

the durbar and rescued

me

critical

vessel that has a

for

my

moment
all

of

my

my

good

pilot fears

existence:

fill

my mind

at that beautiful drawing

spent there with

my

and

away my

but

life:

his permission

my

no storm;

in the ragin^

Such a safeguard, such a prohad

would have been too

have received the picture

observe, will

not a

disgrace,

my

life

his exertions

late.

in the

Thanks be

to

friends;

will
it

God who
my soul.

theTempIe of the Fountains, as you

with mingled sensations.

it

most

been delayed a

pointed out his path, and caused him to bring safety to

"

have

misfortune, instantly flew to

our exalted friend! he came to save

few minutes

is

from the power of the wicked.

tempest what can happen to her?

is

you what

excellent friend the English resi-

dent, on receiving intelligence of

tector

world who do

his heart

hands of God! without

death was not to happen.

"The

misfor-

friendship increased: this his highness did not ap-

at length for his determined resolution to take

life

my

in

knew of them, day by day,

was one cause among many others

it

me

outward appearance.

friend to the English, notwithstanding his

always regarded them

your health,

I rejoice at

heart.

remind

me

I look

of the happy hours I

my remembrance
who loaded me with favours

will also recal to

an ungrateful and perfidious prince,

When

167
and overwhelmed

me

with disgrace.

act of your kindness.

wisdom! what can

Among
and other

am made happy by

more?"

Cambay nabob,

the attendants of the

places, are several Abyssinian

by way of courtesy Seddees, or Master.

to great honours, richly apparelled,

arms, and servants.

This

is

as also at Surat

and CafTree

They

slaves, called

are often

most of

whom have

slaves

horses,

customary among the Moguls, Turks,

and Arabians, and especially the Mamelukes

The

promoted

and furnished with

Persians,

origin, as the

this

pray to Alia to keep you in health and

I say

in

Egypt,

ascended to their eminence from such an

name, signifying "purchased," or " property," implies.

who conduct

themselves well find their chains light, are

treated like near relatives,

and are admitted

to great confidence;

they often obtain their freedom, and marry their masters' daughters.

The mahomedans
by kind

in general treat their slaves with

and comfortable

attentions render their servitude easy

nor have those purchased by the English in India

to

complain of their lot; they experience very

from that of

their African brethren in the

humanity, and

much

reason

different treatment

West

Indies.

No

cruel

taskmasters and overseers increase the hardships of bondage; they

are

all

household servants, often confidential domestic friends, and

never employed in agriculture or laborious work.

in

India indeed their condition

unfortunate of

all

are those

is

who

With the Dutch

not so pleasant; but the most

fall

into the

hands of the native

Portugueze, generally a worthless race, treating their helpless captives

with excessive cruelty.

After

all,

we must say with

Sterne, " disguise thyself as thou

168
wilt, still, Slavery,

slave

is

Whether

thou art a bitter draught!"

the titled

a favourite of royally, clothed with purple and fine linen,

and faring sumptuously every day, or whether

like

my

little

An-

jengo captives, their wardrobe and. monthly sustenance amount

only to a few rupees,

still

the tender

lies

of parental,

fraternal affection are dissolved; all the domestic pleasures of

many

destroyed, and
galling chain
estate.

slaves
slaves

who

a high station

filled

and gives a

to

be

satisfied

his birthright,

is

know

all

it

light,

view.

no doubt, have

his fettered

all

a happier

the favours

was delivered

to the

young man

to Darius,

was not intended

to display

and Me-

despotism in

but rather to represent the great king in the

I introduce

it

as

mighty, for he

is

all

its

fairest

worst

point of

a true picture of an Asiatic prince at

men, do not men excel

sea and land, and

king of

monarch himself when surrounded

the princes, governors, and chief officers of Persia

O ye

which

minion.

day, and of one far more amiable than the nabob of

"

is

not where to find a more just portrait of an Asiatic

It certainly

dia.

best

sweetens the most homely meal,

it

enjoyment, beyond

zest to every

latter,

but an English cottager

sovereign than that presented by a

by

its

the

America, and conversed with

India: the

in

an imperial despot can lavish on

Persia, as

accompany

such must be the case of slavery even in

the planlations of South

in

Liberty

youth

have witnessed the cruel treatment of the Portugueze

most reason

man.

other painful deprivations

and

filial,

things in

this

Cambay.

in strength, that bear rule over

them?

But yet the king

lord of all these things,

is

more

and hath dominion over

them; and whatsoever he commandeth them they do.

them make war one against another they do

it;

if

If he bid

he send them

169
out against the enemies, they go and break

and towers; they slay and are

commandments;

if

they get the victory they bring

and have not

to

the king;

all to

Likewise for those that are no

do with wars, but use husbandry, when

they have reaped that which they had sown, they bring
king.

command

he

If*

walls,

and transgress not the king's

slain,

as well the spoil as all things else.

soldiers,

down mountains,

to kill, they kill; if

he

command

to the

it

to spare,

command to smite, they smite; if he command

to make desolate, they make desolate; if he command to build,
they build; if he command to cut down, they cut down; if he
they spare;

command

if

he

obey him, and yet he

is

If such

be

in the

remark, but

Esdras.

the portrait of despotism in

is

people and his armies

all his

but one man! furthermore he ealeth and

drinketh and taketh his rest!"

it

So

to plant, they plant.

its

best estate,

hands of a wicked and cruel tyrant?

I

believe

it

will

It

is

what must
painful to

be allowed by those who have been in

similar situations with myself as collectors of the revenues, that the

mildness and equity of the English laws, the forbearance and hu-

manity of our national character, do not always, nor indeed generally,

produce the desired

the revenue department at

effects in Ilindostan.

Dhuboy.

The

found

it

so in

severe and oppressive

measures which the people had been accustomed

to

former governors were more efficacious.

the operative

principle; coercion seems necessary in

to

all

Fear

is

under

their

ranks, from the zemindar

the lowest tandar or patell in the purgunna; the lenity

and

kindness shown to those immediately connected with the durbar,

never to

my

knowledge produced a return of benevolence

conduct of the zemindars towards

VOL.

III.

their

inferiors.

in the

The chain of

170
oppression continued unbroken from the lop to the bottom.
I believe a true observation, that

than those

who have been

in

is

no masters are more tyrannical

slaves themselves; few servants in a f\ee

country prefer living with a master or mistress

been

It

Among

a slate of servitude.

who had themselves

the oppressions complained

of by Nehemiah, under the government of Artaxerxes, he says

that not only the governors but even their servants bare rule over

made

the people, and

throughout India;
I

mentioned

to

it

it

is

at

this

day

extends from the savage punishment which

have been

down

prince of Scindy,

Thus

cruel exactions.

inflicted

to

the village

quiesce in the payment of the

sum

man

on a

of high rank by the

palell,

who does

not ac-

him by

the op-

extorted from

pressive zemindars.

As

to slavery literally

The female

so called, in Asia

it is

slaves brought to the Indian courts

Circassia, are in very high estimation.

of various kinds.

from Georgia and

have seen some of these

reputed beauties, and others from Armenia or the northern parts

of Persia

they were generally

admired

in Persian

preferred

with dark eyes and clear com-

youth possessing that rich style of beauty so

plexions

in

fair,

and Arabian

tales.

by the Persians and Moguls

The male

much

slaves generally

in India are

brought from

Abyssinia and the eastern coast of Africa.

In the northern provinces

Hindoo

families as in the

they are very

most of the

it is

dered as slaves.

common

to

have slaves

Mysore and Malabar dominions;

much employed,

tribes

not so

especially in cultivation.

in

there

I believe

of Pooleahs and Pariars in Malabar are consi-

Dr. Buchanan observes, that

south of Malabar, the usual price of a young

in

Malayala,

man and

in the

his wife

is

171
from

six to

seven pounds,

they have two young children

if

creases their value to nine or ten pounds;

whom

children, two of

at

Manapuram,

twenty-one

in

many

in

its

shillings a-head,

pears a small

sum

and with four or

five

are beginning to work, the family will pro-

duce altogether from fourteen

Ghat:

in-

it

for the

to fifteen

pounds;

this

vicinity, children sell

was

at Palu-

from eight

according to their growth.

to

This ap-

purchase of a slave, but they are as cheap

Chardin says the Tartars sold

other parts of the world.

their Polish prisoners for a

crown a-head

and the prophet Joel,

in

describing the miserable captivity of the Jews, says, the children of

Jerusalem have ye sold

harlot,

and

to the

Grecians; they gave a boy for an

sold a girl for a drink of wine.

The number of poor people who come clown

to

Anjengo and

the other sea-ports from the inland countries, during a famine,

either to sell themselves, or to dispose of their children as slaves,

astonishing.

During

my

is

residence at Anjengo there was no fa-

mine, nor any unusual scarcity of grain, but during the rainy
season

many were weekly brought down from

sold on the coast.

ship as

we imagine; what may be

parental affection
tain the

They did not appear

life;

think

it

so great a hard-

their usual degrees of

filial

pretend not to determine, neither can

Malabar ideas annexed

of domestic

to

the mountains to be

to

dulce-domum, and the

and

1 ascer-

charities

but, without the smallest intention of countenan-

cing West India slavery,

must and do think the

feelings of a

Ma-

labar peasant and those of a cottage family in England are very

different; the former certainly part with their children

with very

little

sympathetic

compunction, the

tie.

We

know

that

latter are united

it is

apparently

by every lender

no unusual thing

for

people to

172
sell

themselves for bread

from the time of Joseph

sold themselves

and

eastern countries;

in

until

the present period.

their possessions to

during a grievous famine; and

in

Pharaoh,

the code of

provision for the poor wretches

who from

the

same dreadful

necessity.

"

reduced

to

the

has been practised

it

The Egyptians

to save their lives

Hindoo laws

is

same cause might be

Whoever having

re-

" ceived his victuals from a person during the time of a famine, and
" hath

become

his

slave,

upon giving

to his

whatever

provider

" he received from him during the time of the famine, and also
" two head of cattle,
specting this kind of

may become free from his servitude." Reslavery among the Jews, the Mosaical law,

with the sweetest breathings of humanity, thus enjoins the Israelites:

" If thy brother that dwelleth by thee be waxen poor, and be sold
" unto thee, he shall serve thee unto the year of jubilee; and then
" shall he depart from thee, both he and his children with him, and
" shall return unto his family; and unto the possession of his fa" thers shall he return: for they are

my

servants which

brought

" forth out of the land of Egypt; they shall not be sold as bond" men.

During our stay

evening

at

at

Cambay

the

nabob invited us

to pass

an

a summer palace, called Dil-Gusha, which means the

Heart's Delight, literally the exhilaration or expansion of the heart;

name

in

the Persian language

somewhat synonimous

Souci, the favourite retreat of Frederick,

in all respects

which

to Sans-

king of Prussia; although

on a more limited scale than that royal residence,

have since

and being the spot

visited.

in

Dil-Gusha

is

contiguous to the

city,

which the nabob then most delighted, the

pavilions and gardens were kept in good order, while his other

'

12

Ni

<

A.
K.

*is#

V\

X
x

Si

""

>
:=:

5~

.X
.

"
'-

r_
-

'

173

villas

Gusha

consists of

two octagon

upper garden; from thence a

den near a

lake, containing

where no strangers intruded

is

The

were entirely neglected.

another pavilion with a

over the gulph of

halls,

Dil-

on the northern terrace of an

zenana and private apartments,

end of ihe upper garden

at the south

building at

of steps leads to the lower gar-

flight

the

principal

commanding an

flat roof,

Cambay, on which

the

extensive view

nabob generally

enter-

tained his evening visitors.

The

size

much

of these gardens does not admit

variety in the

walks and shrubberies; choice trees and shrubs border a narrow

canal between the pavilions, adorned with a
tains; the centre of the canal

expands round an octagon marble

temple of a singular construction

tains a leaden pipe,

number of small foun-

each perforated column con-

which conveys water

to the roof of the temple,

whore from eight fountains round the dome

it

falls

over the project-

ing architrave on screens of sweet-scented khusa-grass, and gently

trickli l"

through the matted verdure renders the internal atmo-

sphere delightful.

Imagination can hardly form a more luxurious

regale in the torrid zone than to repose in a temple of fountains,

lulled

by the notes of bulbuls

This retreat affords

pical day.

The

The

delights.

in the

charming

surrounding groves.

alleviation to the heat of a tro-

evening, as already mentioned, has

its

peculiar

rays of Cynthia give a softened beauty to the gar-

dens; the shrubs and flowers emit a double perfume, and the lordly

champach
dawn,

is

fillsUhe air with

fragrance.

realized the address of the

Then, or rather at early

damsel

in

a vernal morning to

the love-sick Rhada, elegantly translated by Sir William Jones:

174
"

The

breathes

gale that has wantoned round the beautiful clove-plants,

now from

the hills of

Malaya; the

with the notes of the cocil, and the

Now

swarms.

circling arbors resound

murmurs of honey-making
whose lovers

the hearts of damsels

travel at a dis-

tance are pierced with anguish, while the blossoms of bacul are con-

among

spicuous

The

the flowers covered with bees.

leavesdark and odorous, claims a tribute from the

tamala, with

musk which

it

van-

quishes; and the clustering flowers of the palasa resemble the nails

of

Cam a,

The

with which he rends the hearts of the young.

blown chara gleams

like the sceptre

full

of the world's monarch, Love;

and the pointed thyrse of the cetaca resembles the darts by which
lovers are

wounded.

See the bunches of patali flowers

bees, like the quiver of

Smara

full

filled

with

of shafts; while the tender

blossom of the caruna smiles to see the whole world laying shame
aside.

The

far-scented madhavi beautifies the trees round which

it

twines; and the fresh mallica seduces, with rich perfume, even the
hearts of hermits; while the amra-Uec with blooming tresses

braced by the gay creeper attimucta, and

Yamuna

season, which gives pain to separated lovers,

and dances with a company of damsels.

em-

blue streams of

the

wind round the groves of Vrindavan.

is

In this charming

young Heri

sports

breeze like the breath

of love, from the fragrant flowers of the cStaca kindles every heart,
whilst

it

perfumes the woods with the dust which

it

shakes from

the majlicd with half opened buds; and the cocila bursts into song

when he

sees the blossoms glistening

Most of

on the lovely row/a."

the royal gardens in India have an appropriate

and frequently an inscription over the portal

in

name,

Persian poetry,

175
The

hyperbolical ly descriptive of their attractions.

cimen
ror

is

taken from the entrance of a garden,

Aurungzebe

at

" Whose

river

the

empe-

Zank.

planted by the king Alungeer,

universal bounty rivals that of the sun, in

" When he demanded

" An

made by

Noorabad, on the banks of the

" This garden was

following spe-

invisible voice replied,

a sentence to

denote

thou hast seen the

its

all his

splendor:

date

Garden of Beauty."

A. Hej. 1077.

Something similar to the temple of fountains

at

Dil-Gusha

is

thus fabled in the gardens of Indra, introduced in the Curse of

Kehama.
Within the temple on
Reclin'd,

golden throne

his

Kehama

lies,

Watching with steady eyes

The perfum'd

light, that

burning bright

Metes out the passing hours.

On

either side his eunuchs stand,

Freshening with fans of peacocks' plumes the

Which,

redolent of

all

gums and

rich

Seems overcharg'd with sweets

air

flowers,

to stagnate there.

After a recreation in the garden, the nabob accompanied us to

the roof of the pavilion, where music and dancing-girls awaited us.

Fire-works on the canal illuminated

its

fragrant borders, and exhi-

bited a curious scene of alternate fountains, playing

falling

among

shrubs and flowers.

The supper,

fire

and water,

similar to that at

the vizier's, consisted of various rich dishes; the di fte rent sherbets

were improved by spices and rose-water.

and

polite,

The nabob was

affable

helped us himself from the best dishes, and kept up a

sprightly conversation.

On

our taking leave he sprinkled us with

176
custom of Asiatic princes,

ottar of roses; and, agreeably to the

presented to each betel, shawls, and kincobs.

It

not easy to give a

is

translation of the dancing-girls'

literal

songs, but as they were superior to any

had heard before,

tempted an imitation from the communication of a

friend,

I at-

who

understood the language, and had been accustomed to these enter-

Were

tainments.

favoured by the muse of

liafiz,

would not

introduce them in humble prose.

A SONG OF ROSIIAN, OR

ROXANA

A FEMALE APPELLATION SIGNIFYING SPLENDOR.

When, oh my
and treasure of

Koxana?

beloved

my

wilt thou

soul, oh!

In vain do

when

my

beloved

is

dust of Keurah, and perfumed

ble.->s

thy

in

watching thy footsteps.

The

it

have strewed

it

with the sweet

with ottar of roses:

am

scented

of lahore, and tinged with the blossoms of hinna;

oils

haste then,

thou appear to

heart,

decked with garlands of mogrees, oversha-

dowed by a canopy of jessamin.

with the

will

my

wait thy approach; thou comest not to

thy love: mine eyelids are weary

sofa of

return? delight of

my

beloved, to thine handmaid, gladden her heart by

thy presence!

A SONG OF SELIMA.

Abdallah

my

lamp of

my

only love! In vain do

life

and possessor of

I call

upon

my

heart;

my

first,

thee, thou art afar off; thou

hearest not the voice of thy Selima, once the most favoured of thy
slaves!

Abdallah!

my

king!

my

love! thou hast

decked

me

with dia-

177
monds of Golconda, and covered me with
what are diamonds and pearls
most prized by thy Selima
heart,

my

beloved, restore

Ormuz;

forsaken? the jewel

is

give

me

thy

the silks of Iran presented by

my

no longer her own

is

to its first possessor!

it

The shawls of Cassimer and

lord,

her that

to

pearls of

have no longer any charms for thy Selima; thy palace, thy

me no more;

baths, thy gardens delight

are they

all,

thy heart,

beloved, restore

The gardens and

afford

me no
The

in vain!

ceases to charm.

its first

give

me

possessor!

mango and pomegranate tempt me

pleasure; the

my

to

it

Abdalla?

groves, once the fond retreat of thy Selima,

champahs and odour of

fragrance of

longer enjoy;

me

damsels delight

Return, oh

my

heart to thy Selima, restore

it

Persians and Moguls

to

no

spices I no

and

more,

lord, to thine

her thy heart, and every pleasure will

The

my

compared with the heart of

my

take them again; what

music

handmaid,

accompany

it

restore

O, give thy

possessor!

its first

whom we met

at these parties

seemed

fond of poetry, and one of them was favoured by a plaintive

muse.

The

orientals

allow the Europeans to excel in history,

philosophy, and ethics, but suppose w e have very

r

poetry, especially odes, in

Hafiz, of

making
on

this visit,

remark

to Sir Charles

Malet,

On

made

a person of rank

III.

us

Being master of

the following stanzas extempore,

and immediately translated them into Persian poetry,

VOL.

and

who accompanied

he assured him to the contrary.

the Persian language, he

taste for

the style of Sappho, Anacreon,

which they are extremely fond.

this

little

to the

admi-

178
They were addressed

ration of our oriental friends.

by Europeans and

a tree equally esteemed

to the myrtle,

Asiatics.

EXTEMPORE LINES ON THE MYRTLE.

"

Favourite tree of beauty's queen,

" Ever

fragrant, ever green,

" With

thy foliage form a grove,

" Sacred

to the

" There,

encircled in her arms,

" Free from

" Let me

" And

The

fruit,

all

maid

but love's alarms,

revel, toy,

fondly love

flowers, spices,

I love.

and play,

my life

away."

and perfumes, introduced

entertainments, exercised the talents of the

We

r
3 outh.

little

their genius durino-

the fragrance from the garden, the ele-

gance of the dancers, and the beauty of

I

Persian

odes, distichs, and other effusions of poetry.

The splendor of the moon,

subjects.

Mogul and

had several pleasant specimens of

the evening in

at these

their songs, afforded the

have preserved several which were written

at the

mo-

ment, by a young Shah-zadah, who committed them to paper as

they were composed, in a most elegant style of penmanship; which,

on

fine

Indian paper, flowered in

contrasted

by the strong Persian

silver

letters,

and spotted with gold,

produces a beautiful

Distichs and poetical effusions are sometimes written

leaves of plants

occasion.

and flowers;

this

D'Herbelot mentions

what kind of myrtle afforded a

anecdote of Kessai and Al

effect.

upon the

was not practised on the present

it,

but leaves us at a

loss to

guess

leaf sufficiently large, in his curious

Mamon,

the son of the famous Khaliff

179
Haroun

Rascheed, a conspicuous character

al

the

in

Arabian

Nights' Entertainment: " Kessai one day presented himself at the

Mamon,

door of the apartment of Al

the prince,

who was

to read

then at table with

his

one of

his lectures

companions, wrote him

a distich upon a leaf of myrtle; the sense of which was, There

time for study, and a time for diversion:

an hour

this is

is

have

destined for the enjoyment of friends, wine, roses, and myrtle.

Kessai having read

same myrtle
If

this distich,

answered

leaf in four lines; the

upon

the back of the

meaning of them

as follows:

you had understood the excellence of knowledge, you would

have preferred the pleasure that

joy in company; and

if

you would immediately

gives, to

you knew who

rise,

stowed upon you.

than he quitted

How

his

this

it is

God

that

at present en-

is

at

your door,

for the favour

he had be-

had no sooner heard these verses

company, and came

happily does

Wisdom

Mamon

Al

what you

and come and prostrate yourself on

the ground, praising and thanking

"

it

anecdote

to his preceptor."

illustrate

that passage in the

of Solomon," where the folly of inconsiderate youth

thus represented: "

Come on

that are present; let us

ments; and

let

fill

therefore, let us enjoy the

good things

ourselves with costly wine

no flower of the spring pass by

is

and

us: let us

oint-

crown

ourselves with rose-buds before they be withered/'

Similar sentiments prevail in most oriental writings, ancient and

modern

the

Greek poets were equally fond of them.

I shall not

introduce the productions of this evening, composed from present

objects, not so generally interesting as the following lines,

which I

have selected from two celebrated Persian poets, as a more, complete

specimen of the elegant recreation

I allude to.

180
STANZAS Or A SONNET, BY SADI.
Strike, strike the lyre

The

And
I

float

And

the absent

and sorrow

of the pearls formed from tears,

shell-fish are

mourn

more

serious nature, but the

and morality, and the allusion

in the last line, is

the vital and intellectual powers

into the

form of the human frame, breathed

his

bestowed reason, and

Who

painted with lively colours the cheek of the tulip,

And made

And

Who
And

animating

crowned the summit of the heavens with

ting'd the hard

enkindled the

bosom of
fire

of the

diadem of

the ruby with a vivid glow

moon

spirit

of the dew-drop an ornament for the rose-bud

as a nocturnal

constellations,

lamp;

perfum'd the flower-garden with the fragrance of burning incense

Who spread out the earth

And

inspir'd the soul

Who

Who

taken from an

produced from drops of rain-water which they imbibe,

confirmed the foundation of understanding

Who,

flies,

the Asiatics, that the pearls found in certain

" Who made manifest

Who

pleasure smiles on her return.

in general affect piety

common among

round

in sighs,

fair to

following dislichs are of a

niahomedans

tell

on every gale.

have past whole nights

But she appears

idea

music

opening flow'rets paint the ground

Condemn'd

The

let

blessings Spring shall scatter

Fragrance shall

Oh

on the face of the water,

form'd precious pearls from the tears of the clouds ?"

Such were the entertainments we received from

Cambay and

his vizier,

the

nabob of

in the true style of Persian elegance

and

181
As a

hospitality.

of an

further illustration

oriental

Dr.

feast,

Fryer has added some other particulars, curious and entertaining.

"

On

alighting at the host's, the

guest-chamber,

all

company

bestrewed with flowers and sweet herbs, besides

perfumed with odoriferous gums, or the

resinous matters
pots, very costly

are introduced into the

made
and

and

into candles,

wood

aloe's

alone, or other

massy

in

fuming

silver

delicate, leaving their slippers

where they

begin to tread on carpets; they take their seats on susanees, a rich

tapestry of needle-work that borders the carpets, behind which are

placed huge velvet bolsters.

They welcome you by a

rose-water, poured on your head

and beard

flood of

then they bring in, in

neat voiders, china plates of pistachios, walnuts, almonds, grapes,

prunellas, dried apricots,

they pour out coffee,

pany with mimics,

terludes

is

tea,

and other sweetmeats, amidst whereof

and hot rose-water; and

stage-players,

mixed the custom,

men

certain wise

divert the

and dancers, between whose

in-

ancient as Nebuchadnezzar, of

as

repeating verses in their praise, or reading

ments of antiquity, which continues

the cloth spread on the carpets.

com-

till

monu-

victuals are brought in,

Water

is first

and

brought and ewers

to wash; the courses are ushered in with music,

and the

servitors

are placed so as to furnish every one with plates of the several

varieties,

which they place before each, and give them long wheaten

cakes, both for napkin, trencher, and bread

rice:

their

most admired dainty

themselves and receive no hurt,

stomach.

is
it

pillaw,

also plenty of boiled

wherewith they

being so well prepared

After they have eaten well, and the cloth

they wash again.

The usual drink

is

sherbet,

made

is

will

fill

for the

removed,

of water, juice

of lemons, and ambergris; most of them will freely take off their

182
commonly of

bowls of wine, which are

AVhen they have

return thanks,

silver,

and some of gold.

themselves with feasting, as they depart they

tired

inviting every one in course to an entertainment

by

of the like nature, where they strive to ouldo each other."

At
by

the entertainment given us

the vizier

and

by the nabob, he was attended

great officers; and from a latticed

all his

cham-

ber the ladies of the haram (invisible to us) had a view of the

ropean strangers.

Eu-

part of his domestic establishment consists of

professed story-tellers, called kissa kawn, a class of people well

known

the admirers of Persian

to

and Arabian

always been entertained by the oriental princes.

on eastern manners,

his valuable dissertations

story-tellers are there

of ancient date; even at

Richardson, in
" professed

says,

this

they have

tales:

day men of rank

have usually one or more, male or female, among their attendants,

who amuse them and

their

women, when melancholy, vexed,

indisposed; and they are generally employed to

Many

in the

One

of

my

baffled the

Mohammed,

that he expressly prohibited

Koran."
friends, a former resident at

of the nabob, being

ill

Cambay, and a favour-

with a fever, which banished sleep and

power of medicine, the nabob sent him two female

Mogul

families, but neither

story-tellers,

of respectable

handsome.

Placing themselves on each side of

them

to sleep.

in a

They were

such as have been written on their model.

thought so dangerous by

ite

them

of their tales are highly amusing, especially those of Persian

origin, or

them

lull

or

monotonous tone commenced a

had a soporiferous

effect

tale,

young nor

his pillow,

which

in

one of

due time

the patient enjoyed a slumber to which

he had long been unaccustomed; when he awoke the story was

183
renewed exactly where

had

it

relieved each other day

and

Thus

left off.

night, until

these venerable

dames

by a charm more

effica-

cious than the juice of poppies, they wrought a cure.

At

these

Cambay

suppers

observed

many

blances to the manners and customs recorded by

The

ancient writers.
parts of

modern

feasts of the

orientalism,

striking resem-

Homer and

other

Grecian bard are often counter-

and the entertainment and presents

given by the governor of Egypt to the strangers from Canaan,

is

an

exact picture of what constantly occurs in an Asiatic durbar; quotations

would be endless

which might be

but there are

illustrated

by an

many

passages in scripture

attentive observer of

modern

manners, particularly in that beautiful and pathetic narrative of

our blessed Redeemer, when a guest at the house of a rich Pharisee.

There the penitent Mary comes with an alabaster box of pre-

cious ointment, to anoint the feet of her Saviour, and to wipe

The proud

with the hairs of her head.

them

host was astonished at this

attention being permitted from a sinner;

and although he did not

express his sentiments upon the occasion, he internally passed sen-

tence upon the humble female,

were well known

to

little

a guest, who, though veiled

the great Searcher of his heart, and

merly perusing

knew

this affecting relation 1

admission of such a

woman

when

open

I noticed the

imagining that his thoughts

into the

halls

all its

in mortality,

have been surprised

which

for-

at the

mansion of the Pharisee; but

and gardens

in

which the

feasts are given, the variety of strangers admitted,

rities

In

motions.

was

oriental

and the familia-

have seen them take, and have myself experienced, I

cease to wonder, and

am

convinced that by a minute attention to

scenes daily transacting before us, not only the present seeming

184
inconsistency, but

of 'far more importance, which have exer-

many

the malignant wit of Voltaire

cised

and

pleasingly and effectually elucidated.

is

the principal instrument

his disciples,

might be

notorious that ridicule

It is

which the French philosopher makes

use of to depreciate the gospel; with his success by

means of

engine in his writings, conversation, and example,

all

unhappily but too well acquainted.

had an

Europe

my

return

France, when that excellent prelate wished

in

is

interesting conver-

sation on this subject with the late Bishop Porleus after

from captivity

this

to

be

particularly informed whether true religion, under whatever out-

ward

had sprung up from the prostrate

profession,

altars

of the

Gallican church to counteract the fatal effects of Voltaire's philo-

sophy, concluding in language similar

to that

which he had more

publicly delivered, " that Voltaire's writings had unquestionably

produced more

among

infidels

the higher classes,

and spread more

general corruption over the world, than the voluminous productions

of all the other philosophists of Europe put together."

When
clamation,
thing,

Naaman made

the servants of
'

My

father! if the

prophet had bid thee do some great

wouldest thou not have done

when he

unto thee,

saith

use of that beautiful ex-

Wash and be

it?

how much

clean?

rather then

If their master

had

then continued under the fatal influence of pride and anger,

how

how would he have

con-

wretched would have been

his condition!

tinued to suffer under a shocking disease, which

all

the physicians

of Damascus could not heal, nor the wealth and power of his situation alleviate.
followers, of
love, "

Come

Such

what

is

the pride of

avail

unto me,

all

man!

To

Voltaire's

deluded

are those endearing words of truth

and

ye that labour, and are heavy laden, and

185
I will give

dence;

you

The

rest?"

until the spirit

is

by modern philosophers,
clean,"

invitation

too simple for self-confi-

is

humbled the heavenly manna

as

is

rejected

was the prescription of " Wash and be

by the Syrian general!

The

tendency of infidelity among the Europeans in India,

fatal

younger part of the community, has been mentioned.

especially the

Bereft of parents and friends,

we had none

to address us in the

language of the pious Gellert, the amiable professor. of Lei psic:

" O!

if

the testimony of a friend, of a tutor, can have any weight

" with you;

if

mine,

my dear young friends,

can have any influence

" over you, whenever any presumptuous reasoner would

" against the doctrines of the holy scriptures
" not knowing

how

" extinguish in yours a

"

tranquillize his

to

him never

find

" of your veneration;

" secures

How

it

constitutes

to

of which confounds him,

all

Let the scriptures be

it

the infidel,

one amongst you, who may

" dare to despise the most excellent of

" subject of raillery!

when

or

you

own mind, undertakes

belief, the holiness

Christian youth, let

set

books, and

make

it

at all times the object

your happiness on earth, and

heaven!"

in

does the invaluable advice of this excellent professor out-

weigh the sophistical reasoning* of the royal philosopher of Sans

Souci, in his

memorable
" De
"

Comme

l'avenir,

la

apres

VOL.

III.

cher Keith, jugeons par

ma

il

le passe

n'avoit point pense;

mort, quand toutes mes parties

corruption serontaneanties,

" Par un meme

" Non,

Marshal Keith.

avant que je fosse

" De meme,
" Par

lines to

destin

il

ne pensera plus

rien n'est plus certain, soyons

2B

en convajncu."

186
I shall al present

conclude the subject with the sentiments of

the late earl of Charlemonl: this illustrious

lasting friendship with

Hume,

nobleman preserved a

without the slightest deviation from

those religious principles which he had the happiness early to

imbibe.

" The celebrated David Hume, whose character

is

so deserv-

edly high in the literary world, was secretary to the British plenipotentiary to his Sardinian majesty,

Turin

He had

in 174.9-

when

was at the academy at

then lately published those philosophical

essays which have done so

much

mischief to mankind, by contri-

buting to loosen the sacred bonds by which alone

restrained from rushing to his

own

destruction;

man

can be

and which are so

intimately necessary to our nature, that a propensity to be

by them was apparently

instilled into the

human mind by

bound
the all-

wise Creator, as a balance against those passions, which, though

perhaps necessary as incitements to activity, must, without such

control, inevitably

ever, unconscious of

its

The

world,

how-

danger, greedily swallowed the bait.

The

have hurried us

to our ruin.

essays were received with applause, read with delight, and their

admired author was already, by public opinion, placed at the head

of the dangerous school of sceptic philosophy."

From
which,

if

this digression I return

properly attended

to the oriental entertainments,

to, illustrate

many

passages in the sa-

cred volume, not generally understood in Europe.

at these feasts

is

very great.

profusion

In the patriarchal age, Benjamin, as

a mark of superior favour and distinction, had

tity

The

five

times the quan-

of food set before him that was allotted to his brethren, and

more changes of raiment

so

it is

at this day, in the quality as well

187
as the quantity of food

and raiment

distributed to the guests, as 1

have often experienced, both among Hindoos and Mahomedans,

especially in

marked

the

number and

distinction, in

fineness of

texture,

in

the shawls, muslin, and keemcobs, presented on pub-

lic visits

at

a durbar.

This distinction points out the different

degrees of honour and respect due to the

of dress
least

it

seems

to

have more meaning than in that of food; at

so far as respects

quantity; although even there,

dishes placed before a great

acceptable to his palate

would perhaps consume

all is

economy of an

well

Our

done

man may be

far superior,

and more

but in quantity, from various causes, he

less

we

than a poor one. If

we

Asiatic entertainment,

no fragments remain; nothing

attend to the

shall find

that

is lost.

Saviour, illustrating a spiritual subject, says, a certain

man made

a great supper, and invited

many

suitable guests: on

neglecting the invitation, the host sent his servant to

his

we must

In richness and expense, the

not form too hasty a conclusion.

general

In the article

visitors.

oxen and

fatlings

entertainment.

were

killed,

tell

them that

and every thing ready

"When, after a second

call,

they

all

cuse, the master of the house ordered his servants

quickly into the streets and lanes of the

city,

and

for their

sent an exto

go out

to bring in the

poor and the maimed, the halt and the blind; and to go into the

high-ways and hedges, and compel them to come

house might be

filled.

This

is

in,

that his

certainly very unlike the

manners

and customs of modern Europe: when we examine those of Asia

in ancient

and modern times, we

shall find

it

literally fulfilled

the hospitality of the present day exactly resembles that of the

remotest antiquity.

188
A

'.'

And

all

My

palace, wealth, and slaves I late possess'd,

that

gate, an

makes

the great be call'd the bless'd

emblem

of

taught by time,

open

my

For others good, and melt

heart has learn'd to glow

at others

Who knows the son of sorrow

Cheers the sad heart, nor

it

To

soul,

dealt a bounteous dole.

Embiac'd the poor, and

For,

my

woe

to relieve

lets affliction grieve.

never was our guise

slight the poor, or aught

humane

despise;

For Jove unfolds our hospitable door,

Tis Jove that sends the stranger and the poor

On

all their

And
Be

weary ways wait Care and Pain,

Pine and Penury, a meagre train.

then attentive

what we order heed;

This hapless stranger to the city lead

By

public bounty let

And

bless the

him

hand that stretches forth the bread.

To wipe

the tears from

The

may

will

Such was the

ence, aud that of

there be fed,

covet,

all afflicted

eyes,

what the power

hospitality of ancient

many

Homer.

denies.

Greece

my own

experi-

other travellers, confirms the same customs

among

the

among

the Turks and Persians, at their meals " they do not in

modern

common make
are covered

who

are at

Asiatics.

with mats, pieces of

all

upon.

this subject says,

use of a table, or chairs; the floors of the houses

felt,

or carpets.

Among

those

opulent, there are, besides, embroidered or stitched

coverings, four feet broad

to lean

Chardin writing on

and cushions placed against the wall

All these things are embroidered with gold,

people of quality.

When

the

provisions are

spread a cloth, whose breadth and length

is

served

among

up,

they

proportioned to the

189
hall,

when

persons

full

it is

same time they

at the

In Turkey

with the bread.

and

dish;

of people, and smaller

all

when

there are fewer

up the

provisions, beginning

eat together,

and many out of one

serve

apprehend the Turks do not consider

and unlawful

to eat with

it

as forbidden

people of a different religion.

It

is

otherwise in Persia, Arabia, and India; the people of these coun-

would think themselves

tries

defiled,

touched by people of a different

same

dish:

wont

to serve

it

dish into as

is

for this reason

up every

many

and made impure, by being

faith,

am

one's food

by

or

by eating out of the

of opinion, that they are

itself.

carver parts each

portions, put into different plates,

as there are

There are some

people to eat; which are placed before them.

houses where they place several plates in large salvers, either

round, long, or square; and they

set

one of these before each

person; or before two or three persons, according to the magnificence of the house.

The

great

men

of the state are always by

themselves, and are served with greater profusion; their part of

each kind of provision being always double,

treble, or

proportion of each kind of meat, in the feasts that are

a larger

made

for

them."

passage in Dr. Pococke's Travels exactly illustrates the con-

cluding circumstance in our Saviour's parable of the great man's

supper; which was doubtless very familiar to the

company assem-

bled at the house of the chief Pharisee, whose guest he then was,

and

to

whom

purpose.

he was making the application for a very different

In Dr. Pococke's account of an entertainment

by the governor of an Egyptian

the district, with

whom

made

village for the cashif, or chief

of

he travelled, he says, the custom was for

190
when he had done

every one

eating, to get up,

and take a draught of water; and so

poor came

the

any thing
dress

is

An Arab
and

and ale up

kill

by

set

a sheep, they

prince will often dine in the street before his

that

pression of Bismillah;

people then

Arabs never

neighbours, and the poor, and finish every

to all that pass,

call

for the

all;

hands,

his

continual succession, until

brought to table: when they

call in their

it all;

thing.

door,

that

in,

in

wash

even

to beggars,

name of God:

in the

is,

in the usual ex-

these poor

down, partake of the dinner, and when they have

sit

done, retire with the usual form of returning thanks.

The

familiarity to

at a pharisee's house,

only

common, but

is

During

displeasing.

lian ring containing

which

alluded in another entertainment

where Mary uses the box of oitment,

far

is

not

from being deemed either disrespectful or

my visit at Cambay I usually wore a

my name cut in Persian characters;

corne-

which

papers at Dhuboy.

This being ob-

served by the sciddees and nabob's attendants

when we supped

I used as

seal to official

approached

at his garden-house, they

dom

take

it

me

with that sort of free-

have just mentioned, not only to admire the

off

my

finger,

and hand

the servants of the vizier and

it

round among each

noblemen

known and

other,

and

to

present, exclaiming Yacoob

Forbes: this was circulated, and by that appellation

self afterwards generally

ring, but to

found my-

greeted throughout the city

of Cambay.
Exclusive of the religious pleasure resulting from a perusal of
the sacred scriptures, there

these ancient records with

dostan.

Until

is

a peculiar satisfaction

in

comparing

modern manners and customs

my journey

to

Cambay and Ahmedabad,

in

liiu-

knew

191
of the higher classes

but

little

life

constantly reminded

me

in oriental society;

whose mode of

of similar representations in those au-

thentic annals.

The
and

Asiatic females, especially

Persians, are

now

among

exactly in the

same

wealthy Moguls

the

situation as they

were

placed by a Persian monarch some thousand years ago; the story

of Ahasuerus and Vashli

is

completely descriptive of modern

Here we behold an eastern monarch,

orientalism.

in

the zenith

of power, reigning over an hundred and twenty-seven provinces,

extending from India to Ethiopia:

princes and servants; the

"making a

the riches of his glorious kingdom,

When

many

unto

when he shewed

and the honour of

excel-

his

days, even an hundred and fourscore days.

these days were expired the king

made

a feast unto

the people that were present in Shushan the palace, both

great and

where were white, green, and

blue

of marble; the beds were of gold and

ment of

unto

hangings,

fastened with cords of fine linen and purple to silver rings,

pillars

all

small, seven days in the court of the garden of the

palace

king's

his

all

power of Persia and Media, the nobles

and princes of the provinces being before him

lent majesty,

feast

red,

and

blue,

silver,

and

upon a pave-

and white, and black marble."

This

is

exactly descriptive of a shahmyanah, or large canopy, spread

upon

lofty pillars, in the

gardens and courts of the Mogul palaces^

and attached by similar cords of various colours.

Some

of these

awnings, belonging to the Indian emperors, were very costly and

distinguished by various names; the most so was that called the

bargah, mentioned in the Aycen-Akbery, belonging to the emperor

Akber; which was of such magnitude,

as to contain ten thou-

192
sand persons; and the erecting of
for

it

employed one thousand men

a week, with the help of machines; one of these shahmy-

anahs, without any ornaments, cost ten thousand rupees.

cannot

what the beds of

illustrate

The

from modern Asiatic furniture.

as also the

room

Persian

size,

private houses,

these are occasionally

accommodation of company.

for the

silver

and gardens, and placed under the shah-

into the courts

myanah,

gene-

is

and

in cases of gold

kincob, or of scarlet cloth embroidered:

moved

were,

round which are placed

carpet;

cushions of different shape and

and gold

divan, or hall of audience,

for receiving guests in

covered with a

rally

silver

Respecting ano-

ther kind of bed mentioned in scripture, I think there can be

doubt, that

little

means the palanquin of Hindostan, or some-

it

thing very similar;

sits

paying

state in

in

which the prince not only

in

been

in

of ceremony, but the traveller also

visits

reposes during a journey, as

if

he were

own

in his

a situation nearly nine months together

my

only travelled in

bed.
in

have

which

palanquin during the day, but slept

every night, with the purdoe or curtain dropped round

in or

or

reclines,

it;

not

in

it

either

out of a tent, under a shamyanah, or a banian-tree, as the

weather permitted.

The words

in

Solomon's Song to

scribe the procession of

rounded by

his

guards; "

which

an Indian prince

Who

is

this that

in his palanquin, sur-

cometh out of the

derness, like pillars of smoke, perfumed with

cense, with

all

they

all

men

are about

wil-

myrrh and frankin-

powders of the merchant? Behold the

Solomon's; three score valiant

Israel;

allude, exactly de-

it,

bed,

which

is

of the valiant of

hold swords, being expert in war;

every

man

193
hath his sword upon
chariot of the

his

King Solomon made himself a

thigh.

wood of Lebanon he made the

;

the bottom thereof of gold, the covering of

pillars thereof of silver,

it

of purple; the midst

thereof being paved with love, for the daughters of Jerusalem."

The

latter

more with the hackeree,

part seems to correspond

Indian chariot, drawn by oxen, than the palanquin

or

the former

having a canopy, or dome, covered with cloth or velvet, richly

embroidered and fringed, supported by

silver

the

and

gold, often

pillars,

ornamented with

sandal-wood and ivory; so

inlaid with

is

bottom of the vehicle, or frame-work, raised above the wheels,

which

is

here said to be paved with love.

sacred historian proceeds to observe, that " the guests of

The

Ahasuerus had

their drink in

abundance, according to the

vessels of gold,

state

and royal wine in

of the king: the drinking was

according to law, none did compel; for so the king had appointed
to all the

officers

of his house, that they should do acording to

every man's pleasure.

the

women

On

erus.

in

Also Vashti the queen

the royal

the

seventh

made a

feast for

house, which belonged to king Ahasu-

day,

when

the

heart of the king

was

merry with wine, he commanded the seven chamberlains that

served in his presence, to bring Vashti the queen before the king

with the crown royal, to

for she

beauty,

refused to
lains

come

was

shew the people and the princes her

fair to

look upon.

But the queen Vashti

commandment by

at the king's

therefore was the king very wroth,

and

his

his

chamber-

anger burned

in him/'

Here two circumstances are introduced very

manners of India, although one
VOL.

III.

is

perhaps

not

foreign to

uncommon

the
in

194
modern Persia; the drinking
for the

wine

of*

in public,

and the sending

queen on such an occasion: her conduct

obey the
considered
the wise

command
it.

For

implies

this

how indecorous and

mark of disobedience,

men which knew

in

refusing to

the king said unto

the times, " what shall

we do unto

queen, according to law, because she hath not performed

commandment

who saw

the

first in

the

the
the

Memucau, one

of the king by the chamberlains?

of the seven princes of Persia,

she

indelicate

the king's face,

and

sat

kingdom, answered before the king and the princes,

Vashti the queen hath not done wrong to the king only, but also
the princes,

to all

and

to all the

people that are

vinces of the king Ahasuerus: for this deed

come abroad unto

Media

despise

women;

all

their

husbands

before him, but she

came

contempt and wrath.

If

a royal decree, and

sians

let

and Medes, that

it
it

shall

is

it

and

queen

his

to

shall

it

please the king,

let

be

be brought

not: thus shall there arise too

much

there go forth

be written among the laws of the Perbe not altered, that Vashti come no
let

the king give her royal estate

better than she.

be published throughout

shall give to their

when

their eyes,

in

more before king Ahasuerus, and

unto another that

of the queen shall

so shall the ladies of Persia

commanded

reported the king Ahasuerus

in all the pro-

all

And when

his great

husbands honour, both

the king's decree

empire,

to great

the

wives

and small.

And

all

the saying pleased the king and the princes; and the king did

according to the word of

Memucan;

for

he sent

letters into all

the king's provinces, to every people after their language, that

every

man

should bear rule in his

be published according

to the

own house; and

that

language of every people."

it

should

195
Such
day

is

their

ments

women

the condition of the Asiatic

When

have already described.

knows exactly how

a Hindoo, a Mogul, or a

the girl has been educated,

what are the habits and customs of women

How

of a young Parisian

we

tion,

in

her situation of

and can generally calculate with tolerable accuracy upon her

future conduct.

"

and amuse-

influence in society, their occupations

Farsee, marries, he

life,

in general at this

opposite

comme

" tere d'une jeune

" tion de toutes

la

is

Marmonlel's character

not without

many amiable

exceptions.

pretention de former a son gre le charac-

femme

les

to

which, although perhaps too just a descrip-

readily allow

Paris,

this

is

meres

est la

chimere de tous

les maris, l'alten-

est d'elever leurs filles

dans un etat de

" reserve et de dissimulation qui ne laisse rien voir de decide en

"

elles.

Une

fille

" salide jusqu'au

a.

marier est dans

le

monde une espece de

moment qu'en deployant

ses ailes, elle se

chry-

change

" en papillon/'

The sequel of

the history of Ahasuerus affords a most re-

markable instance of the venality, corruption, and cruelty, of an

oriental tyrant.

This sovereign of

Media and

Persia, encircled

by

wealth, splendor, and power, accepts of ten thousand talents of

silver,

(offered

by a nobleman whose pride

Avas

offended at the

neglect of a foreigner), to issue a decree, by which some hundred

thousand unfortunate captives dispersed throughout

his extensive

empire were commanded to be put to death.

This picture of

eastern cruelty and

no language

injustice,

can be related

in

so

simple and pathetic as that of the sacred historian.

After the repudiation of Vashli, and the marriage of Ahasuerus with Esther the niece of

Mordecai the Jew, the king pro-

196
moted Haitian, and
liim

and

him above

set

the kino's servants

all

but Mordecai

when Haman saw

rence: and

feasted at the royal

home, and

Haman

sent

his children,

him, and

and

let

no

Haman

man come

Haman

his friends,

sought to destroy

they

kingdom, and

to

it

if

it

the

all

Jews

the king's provinces,

promoted
and

ser-

queen

I will

to

is

Where-

a certain people scat-

the people in

it

is

all

the provinces

little

kill,

and

children and

to

all

people,

not for the king's

it

be written, that
talents of silver

the charge of the

And the kinoHaman; and letters

Jews, both young and old,

nothing, so

the people of Mordecai.

pay ten thousand

destroy, to

she

that were throughout

laws are diverse from

who have

to

me

availeth

this

please the king, let

it

be destroyed; and

and gave

the multitude of

the princes

into the kino's treasury.

his hand,

And

his wife.

sitting at the king's o-ate.

among

their

the hands of those

brine

all

keep they the king's laws, therefore

may

and

riches,

said unto Ahasuerus, there

them

came

the queen, he

said moreover, yea, Esther the

Mordecai the Jew

profit to suffer

he had been

with the king unto the banquel that

in

tered abroad, and dispersed

neither

his

nor did

not,

after

and Zcresh

kingdom of Ahasuerus, even

And Haman
of thy

And

of wrath.

how he had advanced him above

lono- as I see

the whole

nor did him reve-

Mordecai bowed

full

had prepared, but myself; yet

fore

not,

"ate,

commanded

the things wherein the king had

all

vants of the king.

did

bowed

them of the glory of

told

king's

king had so

banquet given by Esther

and called

the

in

for the

that

him reverence, then was Hainan

were

that

bowed, and reverenced Hainan,

concerning him;

the princes that were with

all

business, to

took his

rintr

from

were sent into

all

cause to perish

all

women,

in

one day.

197
and

them

to take the spoil of

was published

in

for

The copy of

a prey.

every province, unto

the writing

people, that they might

ajl

be ready against that day; the posts went out, being hastened

by the
shan

king's

commandment; and

name

the palace, in the

the decree was given in Shu-

of Ahasuerus was

and the king and Hainan

sealed with the king's ring;

Shushan was perplexed.

to drink, but the city of

written,

it

And

commandment and

province, whithersoever the king's

sat

The prolongation of
der the controlling

and many lay

this

story

is

in sackcloth

foreign to

my

down

in every

decree

his

came, there was great mourning among the Jews, and

and weeping, and wailing

fasting,

and ashes."

purpose.

power of Providence, Hainan

and

passed

Unthe

favourable decree on Mordecai, which he thought could be only

intended for himself,

honour

to wear,

man whom

as the

the kino; deliohted to

"let the royal apparel be brought which the king useth

and the horse that the king rideth upon, and the crown

royal which

set

is

upon

his

head; and

let this

apparel and horse

be delivered to the hand of one of the king's most noble princes,

that they

may

array the

man

whom

withal

the king delighleth to

honour, and bring him on horseback through the street of the

city,

and proclaim before him, Thus

whom
inan,

the king delighteth to honour.

make

the king's gate.

it

be done unto the

Then

the king said to

and take the apparel, and the

haste,

hast said, and do even so to

When

shall

Let nothing

of

all

Ha-

horse, as thou

Mordecai the Jew,

fail

man

that sitteth at

that thou hast spoken.

Esther the queen informed Ahasuerus of Hainan's wicked-

ness, while

arose in

he was

wrath,

sitting

at the

and went

second royal banquet, the king

into the palace-garden;

and Hainan

198
stood

up

to

make

request for his

he saw that there was

Then

to Esther the

life,

queen, for

determined against him by the king.

evil

the king returned out of the palace-garden, into the place

Hainan was

of the banquet of wine; and

whereon Esther was; then

also before

me

said

house

in the

mouth, they covered Hainan's

upon

bed

the

the king, will he force the

queen

word went out of the

king's

As

fallen

the

And Harbonah, one

face.

of the

chamberlains, said before the king, behold also the gallows

cubits high, which Hainan had

king said, hang him thereon

had prepared

that he

for

made

so they

Mordecai

for

fifty

then the

hanged Hainan on the gallows

Mordecai

then was the king's wrath

pacified."

What
present

a scene of tyranny, caprice, and injustice does this story

it is

too true a picture of what

Here

palace.

we

also

passes in an Asiatic

still

see an exact description of the

conferring honour on the favourite of a sovereign;

dress,

a horse, and a ring;

foreign ambassadors;

such as

these are
I

now

mode

a princely

the usual presents to

have seen exchanged between the

Mahralta peshwa, and the nabob of Cambay: and presented

an English

chief,

or the

commander

dispatching the halcarras, or posts,

several other preceding circumstances, are

in

to

The

of a British army.

taking off the signet from the royal finger, and affixing

decree

of

to

the

to the provinces,

and

still

it

constantly practised

an oriental durbar.
These

frequent quotations

from scripture,

manners and customs of Hindostan,

bon the

historian, although

acknowledged, that "

if

no friend

will I trust

to

illustrate

be excused.

the

Gib-

to Christianity, has candidly

the sacred writings

be considered but as

199
human

productions, they deserve to be studied, as one of the most

monuments of

curious and original

Penn, a writer of a very different

it

is

the

spirit

And

East."

Granville

from Gibbon, says, " that

impossible for the utmost power of

human

industry

and

circumspection to gather in the harvest of sacred criticism so

completely, as that here and there an ear should not remain be-

who comes

hind for the gleaner

no

loftier pretensions, that

I

and

after;

such are

now

it

with these, and

is

offered to the reader."

had formerly the pleasure of being acquainted with a minis-

known

ter, well

rewards

in the literary

man

his pulpit

and

and familiarity of

his language.

others,

One

bell,

of his friends
his

annoyed by the plainness

his servant to take

in order,

down

upon the upper

he did so indiscriminately.

Like

all

the

contained the correspondence of a year: the minister

requested the gentleman to peruse a few of the

finished

in conver-

of them remonstraling with

and desired

number of boxes, ranged

the library
it

little

to

the worthy minister, unwilling to pursue the

argument, pulled the

shelf in

eloquence by no means corresponded with

this subject,

one, from a

Some

delightful.

private conversation, and were a

him on

now removed from works

of learning, talents, and eloquence

sation elegant, instructive,

thought

world,

some business

in

letters,

which he was engaged:

half a dozen, he exclaimed, " persevere,

m}

after reading

valuable friend, in

your present method of preaching; change not: and

Great Master
endeavours/'

while he

may your

continue, as he has hitherto done, to bless your

need hardly say, these were

letters

from persons

under contrition, " sorrow, need, sickness, or some other adver-

200
whom

to

sily,"

under the Divine benediction, had

his discourses,

brought peace, comfort, and joy

I

have been requested by valuable friends not to suppress

of scripture,

those quotations
distant shores;

word

first

and which they are pleased

in season

And join

my

vitae.

be

Horace.

Cambay, and

journey

to

the various entertainments

Ahmedabad,

with an extract

a Persian story, by Feridd'eddin Attar, inserted

collections, describing
tainly include

may now

both profit and delight in one.

take leave of

met with on

lo think

and

Simul et jucunda et idonea discere

I shall

written in foreign lands

in

bom

the oriental

a magnificent banquet, which must cer-

every thing that can enter the warmest imagi-

nation.

"

The painted

be found

in

description.

representation of Persian feasts, which are to

some of

The

their manuscripts, agrees with this poetical

prince, seated on a raised sofa or cushion, re-

ceives either from the

hand of

his princess, or of the

young cup-

bearer, a goblet of wine; the guests in turn are served round,

musicians are seated in a corner, and dancing

sented in

A r arious

attitudes.

These

feasts are

women

the

are repre-

sometimes celebrated

during the hours of nocturnal coolness, on the flowery bank of a

refreshing stream; where a thousand nightingales in the border-

ing rose-trees, join their voices lo the melody of the chenk and
barbut.

Perfumes are scattered

all

around; and lovely nymphs,

with faces bright as the moon, and ringlets black and fragrant

201
as

musk, appear on every

of

this

Attar concludes the description

side.

princely banquet with the following appeal to his reader.

" All that can charm the ear, the pleasures of wine, the season of
youth, full-blown roses, and the minstrels' songs,
purling stream,

and the clear

ries,

soft

moon-beams

light of torches, the faces

of nymphs lovely as hou-

and the fragrant breath of early morn,

mentioned the

and the

for poetry

The day

taste of the
belles-lettres

when

all

Moguls and Persians

He

Sir Charles Malet,

and had

by

profited

he understood English, and having access

library,

at

he read our books with great

sentiment

uncommon

had acquired a
native I ever

ance, with

skill

useful

and judgment

in that

of persons well

whence

liberality

of

fond of drawing, and

amusement beyond any

met with; he presented me, on a

fifty portraits

inti-

and particularly

facility,

He was

was

to his friend's

knowledge and a

in his caste.

whom

his acquaint-

studied a voluminous dictionary of arts and sciences, from

he had acquired a fund of

Cambay

during an evening entertainment.

was agreeably surprised and very much delighted.

ance

these are

following I was introduced to a brahmin, with

mate with

and a

the melody of the nightingale,

combined, what more canst thou desire

I

wine

known

further acquaint-

at

Cambay and

the

adjacent country, high and low, of different tribes and religions, in

their various

costume and

distinct character of countenance, toge-

ther with drawings taken from the

life

of the most celebrated

yogees, senassees, and other religious pilgrims,

Hindoo temples
I never

at

met with a

III.

frequented the

Cambay.
similar instance

nor with any one approaching

VOL.

who

it.

2 1)

among

the natives of India,

Mr. Hunter,

in a

journey from

202
Agra

to Oujein, relates a pleasing interview of this

soubahdar of Burwa-Sagur.

" On onr

arrival

kind with the

we were agreeably

surprised to receive from the soubahdar a present of cabbages,

lettuce, celery,

and other productions of an European garden.

the evening the soubahdar paid us a

sixty years of age, rather

visit

he appeared to be about

below the middle stature

nance bespoke intelligence and

his

In

counte-

his

manners were pleasing.

Hav-

ing had occasion, on account of some bodily infirmity, to repair to

the English station at

Kanhpoor

for

medical assistance, he had

contracted a relish for European manners and customs.

discernment enough

to perceive

He

had

our superiority in arts and science

over his countrymen, and possessing a spirit of liberal inquiry and

an exemption from national prejudices, which

among

is

very

uncommon

the natives of Hindostan, he was desirous of gaining a

knowledge of our improvements. Next morning when we returned

his visit,

he received us

in

an upper room of the

castle,

which,

instead of the Hindoostaney Muslum, was furnished with chairs

tables in the

books,

among which was

Brilannica.
artists

European manner.

Of

this

of his own.

us several English

the second edition of the Encyclopaedia

he had got

To

He shewed
all

the plates neatly copied

formed the project of studying the English language.

pressed great anxiety to procure a teacher, or any

and was highly

gratified

electrical

ex-

by Lieutenant Mac-

tertained us with several tunes on a hand-organ

Kanhpoor, and exhibited an

He

life

book that could

pherson presenting him a copy of Gilchrist's dictionary.

at

by

get at the stores of science which these

volumes contain, he had even at that advanced period of

facilitate his pursuit,

and

He

en-

which he had got

machine constructed by

203
a

man

in his

own

The

service.

common

cylinder was a

table-

shade, with this he charged a phial, and gave pretty smart shocks,

no small astonishment of those who were the subjects of

to the

As

experiments, and of the spectators.

the weather was very dry,

He

the operation succeeded remarkably well.

sible queries

on the nature of the

his

even proposed sen-

electric fluid,

the phial in which the accumulation took place

and the parts of

;

as,

whether in

the glass or the coating, &c. which shewed that he did not look on

the experiments with an eye of mere childish curiosity, which

amused with

is

novelty, but had a desire to investigate the cause of

the phenomena.

am

add

sorry to

man, being about

that this

two years ago seized with some complaint which he considered

incurable, repaired to Benares,

as

and there drowned himself in the

Ganges."

On

leaving

Jamboseer by a
discriminate.

Cambay we

crossed the Myhi, and returned to

different route,

but not sufficiently interesting

remained a few days with Mr. Callander, con-

versing with the

Hindoos and principal people

whose manners and customs varied but

Dhuboy
to

districts.

From thence

we had

my

interesting

lately seen,

and

Jamboseer,
in the

performed a solitary journey

companion, I had

to

in

from those

little

Ahmood, Baroche, and my own purgunnas

prived of

to

during which, de-

leisure to reflect

on

all

form an estimate of the happiness en-

joyed by the inhabitants of Guzerat under the native princes, compared with the blessings of security and protection extended to
those in the English districts, or rather in the empire of British

India

no longer under the government of only a commercial

company, but subjects of a sovereign who

swaj's his sceptre over

204
of civilized,

those distant realms, where at least sixty millions

industrious,

and peaceable people, look up

public virtue for a

Much

preservation

has been done both at

ous purpose;

much

of tranquillity and happiness.

home and abroad

of that vast empire.

doubt place the military

The

causes and ef-

whether bearing the king's or

in India,

company's commission, on a proper

footing,

calculable mischief.

and

it is

to

be hoped

conduct fraught with

effectually prevent the repetition of

in-

Peculiarly situated as Ave are in that distant

behoves every subject of Britain cordially to unite in

it

the support of our

admit

to effect this glori-

unfortunate misunderstanding at Madras will no

fects of the late

country,

energy and

yet remains for improvement in the civil and

religious establishment

will

to British

happy

constitution, as far as local circumstances

If the fable of the father

of.

and

his children

makes a due

we

must, by our

impression, and the bundle remains indissoluble,

national character for justice, clemency, and generosity, gradually

secure the gratitude and affection of the natives.

Great

be

will

the ascendancy of British administration, patriotic virtue, arts, and

science, over Asiatic despotism, venality,

the prophetical language

man

hunt every

his

may

be

and corruption

literally

where

applied, that " they

brother with a net; that they

may do

evil

with both hands earnestly, the prince accepteth and the judge asketh
a reward

wrap

it

up

the great
;

man utterelh

for the best of

them

sharper than a thorn hedge.

fruits,

his
is

mischievous desire, and so they

as a brier, the

most upright

They have gathered

and the gleanings of the vintage, and have

left

the

no

is

summer
cluster to

eat!"

Allowing the virtues recorded of the ancient Hindoo rajahs

to

205
hare existed
eras of the

in their

golden age, that age

same description

fabulous legends

it

exists

if there

or,

long past; like other

only in poetical fictions and

truth in those ancient

is

mahomedan

annals, the cruelties of

is

Hindoo

invaders have obliterated

in seas of blood, flowing in a greater or less degree through

centuries.

many

Since the death of Aurungzebe and the dismember-

ment of the Mogul empire, the peaceful Hindoos have been

Hyder

benefited by the usurpations of

despots called nabobs

Ally, or

nor are they rendered happier by the con-

Under

rapacity and crueUy.

all,

uniform, and stable government

selves actuated

and

wish to enforce

by the

mahomedans

let its

political

heartfelt delight; a religion,

free,

delegated rulers shew by

conduct, that they are them-

religion, morality,

religion of love

in

the system of oppression has

Let British India boast of a mild,

been invariably adopted.

their religious, moral,

little

any of the petty

quests of the Mahrattas, who, at least, equal the

and

it

and policy which they

and mercy, of inward purity

which having

to

little

do with

types and shadows, dwells in the heart, and influences the con-

With such examples and such an

duct.

ing of

Him by whom

terity will

kings reign and princes decree justice, pos-

They

behold a wonderful change.

Hindoos are not so

stitious

influence, under the bless-

will

see that the

rivetled to the prejudices of caste

and super-

ceremonies as to refuse the proffered blessings of liberty,

protection,

and peace.

Let a wise administration remove igno-

rance and vice, and individual example exhibit the perfection of

British virtue

and the

and Christian

piety,

solitary place be glad,

as the rose: the glory of

and they

will

and the desert

Lebanon

shall

"see the wilderness

rejoice

and blossom

be given unto thee; the

206
excellency of Carmel and Sharon: they shall see the glory of the

Lord, and

God!

the excellency of our

and gladness, and sorrow and sighing

They

shall

obtain joy

away!"

shall flee

Although the description of Persian and Mogul entertainments

at

Cambay may convey some

idea of

modern

oriental splendor in

water-temples, waving chowries, scented punkas, perfumed sherbets,

and similar accompaniments, they were

many

generally counterbalanced by as

moment

of enjoyment

my

in

estimation

inconveniences.

At

the

should have preferred a climate not in

need of those extraneous luxuries

a country where hired sing-

ing-men, singing-women, and dancing-girls, are not deemed necessary to domestic

amusement

where the young and happy of

both sexes enjoy themselves, and communicate to others, the delight inspired

by harmony, dance, and song, under the auspices of

parental hosts,

who encourage

ate to the season of youth,

that taste

the innocent cheerfulness appropri-

and preside over

their

festivities

with

and dignity which elegant and cultivated minds so pre-

eminently display. The revolving season of Christmas, anniversary

birth-day*, and other family convivialities, afford an ampler scope
for hospitality

and beneficence

when

friends, tenants,

and depen-

dants of various descriptions partake of their bounty and munificence.

Such was no uncommon character

nobility

and gentry some years ago, and

many

country mansions throughout

this

If the traveller in various countries

ment of human happiness, he

the Great

be

first

will

is

He

writes of

still

to

English

be met with

in

favoured island.

makes a comparative

find, with

Author of Nature has distributed

imagined.

anions; the

it

state-

few exceptions, that

more equally than

men and manners

as

he finds them

207
from imperial Akber, dispensing hap-

in their various gradations,

piness to millions, to the wandering fakeer with his staff

from the splendid rajah and proud brahmin,

leah and outcast Chandalah!

to the

and

lark;

wretched Poo-

Although he cherishes a hope that

under British jurisdiction, the condition of the

ere

long,

will

be meliorated, he also enjoys some degree of pleasure in ob-

serving, that

man,

a state of ignorance,

in

piness or misery than

is

at

first

is

less

In

apparent.

as far from defending the tyranny

generally reconciled

is

and that consequently there

to his situation,

latter

individual hap-

this position I

am

of despots, the oppression of

zemindars, and the degrading distinctions of caste, as

should be

in supporting the horrors of the Inquisition, or the miseries of the

Bastille: but in contemplating the civilized part of the globe,

ther in

Europe or Asia, we

shall find the

concluding

smith's Traveller to contain a true portrait

pen of Johnson

same source
poem,

is

vestigate

of

Gold-

whether drawn by the

whom they are attributed,) or flowing from the

many other striking passages in that beautiful

(to

as

little

human

consequence; the truth

nature,

evident to

is

"

Vain, very vain,

" That

bliss,

Why have

" To seek

my

weary search,

which only centers

I stray'd

in

the

to find

mind

from pleasure and repose,

a good each

government bestows

" In every government though

" Though

terrors reign,

tyrant kings or tyrant laws restrain,

" How

small of

" That

part

all

who

in-

and examine with an unprejudiced mind

the allotment of Providence to his rational creatures.

"

lines of

whe-

all

that

human

hearts endure,

which Jaws or kings can cause

or cure-!

208
"

Still

to ourselves in every place consign'd,

" Our own

" With

felicity

we make

secret course,

or find

which no loud storms annoy,

" Glides the smooth current of domestic joy.

" The
"

lifted axe, the

agonizing wheel,

Luke's iron crown, and Damien's bed of steel,

" To men remote from power but barely known,

" Leave reason,

faith,

and conscience,

all

our own.

PAl^DAFTS OB BATHS
/

CJ

S,

/
Jam. Forbes.Btnnbqy, ijfifl-

|'.\

v da'v
v/~

I'.S

D)]DC9K
'/

&T
/ /

.-'
i

D"

CHAPTER XXXII.
EXPEDITION AGAINST THE GRACIAS:

CAPTURE OF MANDWA, AND RESTORATION OF PEACE

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

BIIAUTS, SEERS,

AND SIMILAR CHARACTERS

IN GUZERAT.
1782.

" Noorsheervan, amidst

the splendor of royalty, sought after the jewel of

sent a philosopher in disguise, to

Mankind

felt

any thing foreign that does not

and are so governed by prejudice, that they

own judgment:

suit their

the pains acquired in searching after knowledge, and they

asking

why

of error.

wisdom

and

researches into the stores of knowledge in Hindostan.

are often so subject to their corporeal senses, that they will not allow any thing to exist

which they themselves have not

lieve

make

or wherefore:

hence

VOL. III.

who know

into a habit of imitation, without

a variety of evils are derived, and truth lies buried under a load

Thanks be unto God, who hath no

averse to praise those

fall

will not be-

indolence induces them to forego

better."

equal, I neither

condemn

Ayeen Akbeev.

the ignorant

nor

am

CONTENTS.
Improvement

population, cultivation and revenue of the

in the

Dhuboy

irruptions of the Gracias and Bheeh character of

bring them
terms insolence and
banditti endeavours

purgunnas
those

to

cruelty to the

Diamonds
tions

expedition
the

against their capital of

Dhuboy

account of

haram

the enterprise

the Bhauts,

demanded

their treat-

as security for

similarity in the

conduct of those people, with several in ancient times

tered into with the Gracia chieftains on

and peace restored

instruc-

correspondence with Kessoor Khan,

good behaviour of the Gracias

released,

Bhaut

language and

treaties en-

security; hostages

Hindoo legend of the Bhauts bards

proclaim the praises of heroes, and sometimes of females

of the Charuns, a similar

tribe

astrologers

account

and soothsayers

dostan compared with Balaam, and those in

in

Hin-

and Ro-

the Grecian

astrology and geomancy taught the Hindoo semina schools instituted by Akber wise women of the east known

man
ries

Gate of

the

Mandwa

success of

town, and the ladies in the

as hostages at

chief of Vazeria
the

their shameful behaviour at

of the British commanding-officer

capture of
ment

Gracias

to

annals

among

the Jews, Greeks,

in India

in

and

Romans consulted

one of them applied

to

by Zeida

chiefly

by lovers

anecdote of

this

in-

teresting
tion

female and an English gentleman, after such an applica-

warm

imagination and lofty flights of the Persian poets

stanzas from the Yusef Zelukha of Jami

love-potions

of
the

passage

in the courts

Hinna

nicus.

from Horace

virtues of ointments and

and charms complained

spells

of Adawlet at Baroche and Dhuboy

poisons and

enchantments on

virtues

the death of

of

Germa-

WW
v

\
\.

N.

N
*

--'

\*

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n!
<s

60

n|

*
*

nn
i

CHAPTER XXXII.

The

emigrations from

Futty Sihng's oppressive government, added so

perity

of the

of the

fair

Dhuboy

season,

and revenue

districts,

after

population,

found their

much

the

that

most

and

much

to the pros-

commencement

the

at

seasonable rains in

consequently

They would

increased.

more nourishing, had not the

the

have

1782,

cultivation

been

still

cruel depredations of the Bheels

and Gracias prevented the distant

quillity

by

the Brodera purgunna, occasioned

villages

from sharing the tran-

enjoyed by those situated nearer the protection of the

capital.

have occasionally mentioned both these banditti; the

former were wild mountaineers, under no regular government,

and almost

in a

savage state; the

were arranged according, to

their religion

of petty sovereigns, Hindoos and

nified

by the

and had

titles

latter, in

considerable numbers,

and

caste,

under a variety

Mahomedans, who were

of rajah, ranah, and other royal appellations;

their viziers, officers of state,

and usual appointments

an oriental durbar, blended with a meanness and rapacity,

to conceive.

Maudwa,

In

dig-

this

in

difficult

instance I allude to the rajahs and ranahs of

Vazeria, and Veloria, contiguous to the

Dhuboy

pur.

214
wunnas. There wereGracia chieftains at
in

Ahmood and

other places

Guzerat of a more respectable character.

These Gracias
alleging that

many

style themselves the aborigines of the country;

ages ago the ancestors of the

possessed themselves of their property,

eastern hills; under this plea,

modern Hindoos

and drove them

to the

they rush down, armed, in large

bodies of horse and foot, upon the defenceless villages, and

heavy demands upon the inhabitants; which,

them

subjects

tion.

The marauders

leave a written menace, or deliver a threat

to the patell of the village,

and probably on the following night

come down with considerable

force to burn the houses, drive off

the cattle, and destroy the harvest.

women, and

not complied

most atrocious cruelty and depreda-

to the

with,

if

make

They sometimes murder men

children, without the least provocation.

Buchanan, describing the

Dr. Francis

banditti in Canara, justly observes, that

pestilence, or beasts of prey, are gentle in comparison with

Hindoo

robbers; who, in order to discover concealed property, put to the

torture all those

who

fall

into their hands.

During the Hindoo and Mogul governments

at

Dhuboy, de-

tachments of armed cavalry patrolled the country, and protected

the inhabitants;
retire

on

as so

many

their

if

the cruel Bheels

and merciless Gracias did not

approach, they cut them down, or destroyed them

wild beasts.

On my

appointment

to

Dhuboy,

willing

to give the Gracias a better opinion of British administration,

to impress their
I

wrote

letters

and

minds with a sense of our justice and moderations

to the different chieftains,

desiring them to send

proper persons to state their claims, in the cutcheree (or revenue^

215
Dhuboy;

court) at

jumma-bundee,

assuring them, that at the time of settling the

agreements,

harvest

or

and appropriating the

revenue to the respective claimants, their reasonable demands

should be satisfied; provided they remained within their
tricts,

and did not molest the Company's

them

at the

if

subjects.

same time with the punishment due

to

own

dis-

threatened

such atrocity,

they continued their depredations.

The

Gracias, from the

made

first,

light

of these proceedings,

My

and afterwards treated them with contempt.

ment of
against

cavalry,

much

patrolling the

districts,

small detach-

could effect but

larger bodies of Gracias well accoutred.

little

The

ver-

tunnees, or armed-men, kept for the defence of each village, were

generally driven within

me

tlieir

mud

walls.

They sometimes

the head of a Bheel, as already mentioned, but

encouragement

my

and mistaken clemency on

cruelty and treachery.

menaces

tion to the villages,

When

were

after

part, only

Anonymous

to the inhabitants

the city.

Year

for so doing.

sent

met with no

year of remonstrances,

added insolence

letters,

filled

to their

with abusive

of Dhuboy, and threatening destruc-

tied

up by

night to the outward gates of

apprehensive of any effective measures being

taken against them, the Gracia chieftains thought proper to

avow any knowledge of

dis-

these papers, which were sometimes ad-

dressed to myself; but always without a signature.

These

letters

were sometimes more openly delivered, accompanied by the most

wanton

cruelties.

The Gale of Diamonds,

or eastern portal at

particularly described; as also the

Dhuboy, has been

custom of the inhabitants,

repair thither to enjoy the fresh air,

to

and verdant shades without

216
the walls.

There they met

their friends every morning,

over the news of the day, a subject the Indians of

trates this

passage

in

denomina-

all

same remark, by Pococke and

tions are fond of: the

and talked

Russell, illus-

Ezekiel " the children of thy people are

talking concerning thee by the walls, and at the doors."

few

peaceful Hindoos were one morning assembled on a verdant slope

without the Gate of Diamonds, when two armed Gracias on horse-

back rode up, and asked them

swered

in the affirmative,

if I

was at the durbar; being an-

one of these cruel wretches threw a

to a brahmin, saying, " deliver this to

may
same

not forget

it,

take this also, by

your

similar message, cut

me

to

you

sirdar; but that

way of remembrance;"

instant thrusting a spear into his side.

a letter intended for

letter

a banian; and, by

at the

The

other delivered

way

of enforcing a

him across the breast with a

The

scimitar.

wounds did not prove mortal, but they were both a considerable
time under the care of a surgeon.

frequent repetition of these outrages compelled

the governments of Baroche and

against these banditti.

Many

Bombay

villages

to

me

to

urge

send a military force

were entirely depopulated,

and the inhabitants, on emigrating into other countries, declared

that notwithstanding the justice

and the enviable

fluence, they

and clemency of the English laws,

blessings they

enjoyed under their benign

would rather become the subjects of an Asiatic des-

pot who would protect them from the Gracias.

In consequence

of these representations, the garrison of

Dhuboy was

by a strong detachment of infantry and

artillery

which enabled
capital of

in-

me

Gomany

to send

from Baroche;

a sufficient force against

Sihng, the chief Gracia rajah.

reinforced

Mandwa,

the

This fortress,

217
the strongest in their country, was

and had always bade defiance

situation;

against

deemed impregnable, from

My

it.

instructions to the

to the

Indian armies sent

commanding

officer

occasion, (consistent with rules then established in the

service) will evince the

its

on

this

Company's

moderation and clemency, constantly en-

joined, and practised by the British armies in India,

on campaigns

of more importance.

Sir,

On
Baroche, you

mand

to

have

Gomanny

Siting, the

there

en-

Gracia chief;

as his sub-

committed the most insolent outrage and cruelty

Honourable Company's

in the

of the Gracias, and

with his vizier, and principal officers

lately

com-

the united force under your

the capital

secure the person of

tain, together

jects

march with

will

Mandwa,

to

deavour

your detachment being joined by the troops from

districts intrusted to

my

care.

If you succeed in securing the Gracia rajah, or any of his

family,

you

will please to

send them under an escort to Dhuboy;

there to give security for their future

settle

such other terms as

nent peace, previous

time, continue at

may

to their

Mandwa,

good behaviour, and

to

be necessary, to establish a perma-

enlargement.

You

will, in the

mean

with your detachment, until you re-

ceive further directions from me, or from the chief

and council

at

Baroche.

Should you not be able to secure the person of

Sihng,

you

are to

make

yourself master of the town, and remain

there until further orders.

Notwithstanding the cruelly, insolence

and treachery of the Gracias towards our subjects, you

VOL.

III.

Gomanny

will please

218
to issue the strictest orders,
its

Manchva and

the inhabitants of

iliat

dependencies, are not, under any pretence whatever, to be

plundered or
mission,

ill-treated

on the contrary, you

them

assure

to

the

in

are,

on

their sub-

most unequivocal manner of the

English protection.

Wishing you health and success,

remain, &c.

James Forbes,

(signed)
Dhuboy,

Collector of

Dhuboy,

Sfr..

9th October, 1782.

This expedition was kept a profound secret from the natives

of

Dhuboy, nor did

Gracia

the least suspicion of our intention reach the

The detachment marched out of

chief.

midnight, and reached

was the

surprise, that

Mandwa by
when

break of day.

the guard

the cattle to pasture,

fortress to turn

in,

obtained possession of the place with very

him on

strong hold,

his

and sent

to

streperous,

fidelity

of his attendants,

bed across the

among

were taken prisoners

them

for

women

the

seized the guards,

little

&o

to

bloodshed.

and

Go-

Sihng, the Gracia chief, although a very old man, escaped

by the vigilance and

carried

So complete

opened the gates of the

and

out for water, the British troops rushed

manny

the garrison at

the
in

hills

hostages.

and

occasioned

menaced immediate

some

the

distance.

reconcile

trouble before

them

alarm

to

and dauo-hter

first

very ob-

could brine

their situation.

self-destruction, if brought into

to

Several ladies

These princesses were at

much

first

and conducted him

the zenana, with his wife

me as

to reason, or at all

at

river,

who on

my

They

presence.

219
or at

exposed

all

to public view;

a threat which I was well assured

they would put into execution, from the high idea generally
entertained of such suicides. I therefore ordered a sepoy-guard, selected

from such castes as I knew would be most agreeable; nor did I

ever see them, or enter into that court of the durbar appropriated

accommodation.

to their

a daily supply of

were sent

rice,

And,

ghee, flower, spices,

in for the ladies

brought from

Mandwa

as they did not eat animal food,

to

and

fruit,

their attendants,

Dhuboy

in

and vegetables

who had been

covered hackarees and pa-

lanquins.

During the time these Gracia princesses were detained as

hostages at Dhuboy, I wrote letters to the surrounding chiefs one of
them will be a sufficient specimen of that kind of correspondence,
;

and

illustrate

my

peculiar situation

among

those extraordinary

people.

To Kessoor Khaun, Chief of the Vazeria

Gracilis.

[After the oriental compliments]

During three years residence

at

Dhuboy,

have frequently remonstrated with you on the

in-

and depredations, committed by your subjects

in

sults, cruelties,

the English districts.

Some months ago your

for

in a public character

They have been

vizier

came

hitherto without effect.

before me, with an apology

your conduct, and a promise of amendment; expressing at the

same time your

durbar:

all

was

sincere wish to live on friendly terms with this

insincere.

The Gracias of Vazeria have

since

re-.

220
newed

plundered the villages, and committed

their depredations,

murder.

You have

among many

thought proper,

expressions, to write to me, that

phant:"

in

one sense

admit

its

"a moschclo can

his

at his presence,

and

flee

asperated,

more formidable; he

bearing, but there

is

before him.

and the hour of revenge

is

when

to

revenge no-

beasts of the forest tremble

fury; the

a season,

ele-

remember, that although

truth; but

can withstand

is still

torment an

much, when once roused

that noble animal bears

thing

other metaphorical

The

British lion,

when ex-

noble, generous, and for-

is

the time of forbearance

arrived!

My

is

past,

whole conduct must

have convinced you of the lenity of the British nation, and of

my

desire to live in amity with the

me; but

different

governments around

the Gracias are continually infringing on the

good order

of society, and the peace which ought to subsist between civilized

states.

Too long

did

suffer

your cruel depredations, from a

luctance to draw the sword of revenge.

having lately exceeded

into the side of a

the

Company's

their chief,

their

But

the

Mandwa

Gracias

former atrocities, by darting a spear

brahmin, and treacherously murdering some of

was compelled

subjects, 1

and take a

capital

been deemed impregnable.

to send

which had

You

for so

an army against

many

one of the distant

hill-forts,

for safety

while his wife and daughter, with

several females from the zenana, were sent prisoners to

where they must remain as hostages

cluded with the Gracias.

centuries

are not ignorant of that capture,

nor that the aged chieftain was with difficulty conveyed

to

re-

until a general

Dhuboy,

peace

They have a separate apartment

is

con-

in

the

221
durbar, where they shall be honourably treated

nor need they

have formed the desperate resolution of destroying themselves,

brought into

my

that I feel too

The Gracia

presence.

much

chieftains

for their sex, their rank,

and

tune, to

add thereto any thing incompatible with

ligion.

I neither desire to see

They

their

viziers

as

you now

and duans, and

their caste or re-

my

at-

and every proper attention paid them.

castes,

more

are, that I

accede to a

to

effectually

am

bring

has

ready to receive your

liberal

ducing respectable bhauts as guarantees

to

Gomanny Sihng

the Gracia government to proper terms;

been informed,

reverse of for-

guards have been selected

detained as hostages, the

are

be assured

them, nor to intrude any of

tendants into their apartments

from the higher

may

if

for

so treacherously has every former stipulation

peace, on your proits

being

fulfilled;

been evaded, that

accept of no other security for your future good behaviour

will

than Ryjee Sihng, the principal bhaut of Serulah, and any others
with

whom

he

may

be willing

you, I once more offer peace and friendship, before the same

To

force that has conquered

Send your

Veloria.
treat

Be

with me.

may be

or

some other

are a

my

word

is

Mahomedan

come

in,

and go out

protection: the English never act with

sacred!

prince,

Judge not of us by yourselves.

and doubtless, conversant with the

and morality of the Koran:

man

minister to

assured his person shall be safe; and whatever

consequently

more enlightened than the pagan Gracias,

as to a

against Vazeria and

confidential

the result of the negociation, he shall

duplicity, their

religion

Mandwa, proceeds

vizier,

of this district under

You

to associate.

of understanding.

from being

have written

to

you,

Reflect on the contents of this

222
letter;

wise choice!

can

make a

consider that peace and war arc before you, and

I say

more

conclude

words of your own epistle " what

in the

?"

L. S.
Dhuboy, or Soohiabad,
8th of the month Sheval, Hejira 119-4.

J. D. loth October 1782.

During the campaign

in

Guzerat

mentioned the

I particularly

Bhauts at Neriad, and the value of a security executed by one

the failure of an agreement Avhich

of that extraordinary tribe;

thejr

guarantee can only be expiated by the shedding of

blood.

mony,

This was
in

all

my

my

reason

for insisting

engagements and

note on these lines in

sacred cere-

this

treaties with the Gracias.

Homer

Pope's

upon

human

is

very

illustrative

of

A
this

custom among the Bhauts.

" Yet him, my
" Thy head

guest, thy

shall

pay the

venom'd rage hath stung

forfeit

of thy tongue."

Homer and

"

From two remarkable

it

appears that the blood which was found upon the sword, was

expressions in

wiped upon the head of the

was

fallen

free

from

slain;

an intimation that

upon the head of the deceased, and

it.

His blood shall be upon

his

head,

Sophocles,

his

the living were

is

common

pression in scripture, as also in other ancient writers.

tomary among the Romans

to

cence, and purity from blood.

wash

their hands, in

Pilate, the

condemnation of our Saviour, washed

innocent of the blood of

this just

his

person

own blood

Roman

It

was cus-

token of inno-

governor, at the

hands, and said, " I

see ye to

ex-

it!"

am

speech,

m
fWm

'
.

KXIEE SIMN.0 BWAVT yJr/S/C "lINOm PU

.

AM,,-.

223
which occasioned the memorable imprecation from the infatuated
Jews, "

his

blood be upon us, and upon our children

!"

An

im-

precation which has been awfully accomplished; exhibiting, for

near two thousand years, a standing miracle in proof of the

Christian religion, in

dreadful consequences on this mistaken

its

people."
It

was customary among the ancients, to confirm

human

ments, by drinking
gled wine.

Ryjee

blood, in

Siting, the

their agree-

which they sometimes min-

Bhaut whom

generally selected on

these occasions, was of a respectable family in the Zinore pur-

gun na, particularly celebrated

In that part of
very

his

concern,

little

as

an historic bard, or minstrel.

professional character, the Gracia chiefs took

it

being to them a matter of indifference, whe-

ther he chanted their praises, or published their crimes, so as he

did not rigidly exact the performance of a deed where

the object.

With them,

dostan, avarice

and

as with

as

vailed in Judea.
after the

committed

characters of princes

of

tribe;

this

my

oral historians of

and the same custom pre-

In the chronicles of the kings of Judah, long-

death of Josiah,

it is

said

that all the singing-men

singing-women spake of that excellent monarch,

tations,

same

to the Bhauts, in the

was practised among the bards and

Homer was

Greece.

superior potentates in Hin-

The

superseded honour.

historical traditions are

manner

many

money was

in their

and

lamen-

unto that day.

wished to be guided by justice, moderation, and clemency, in

dealings with theGracias; but those virtues were of

with that unprincipled race.

The

best,

little

avail

and most efficacious mode

of negociating with the generality of Indian

princes, was

by a

224
similar

message

to

from Benhadad king of Syria, to the

that

him

IsraeHtish monarch, then besieged by

messengers to Ahah, saying, "thy

silver

He

Samaria.

in

and thy gold

sent

mine;

is

thy wives also and thy children, even the goodliest of them, are

mine; and thou

my

shalt deliver

them

into

my

hands.

I will

send

servants unto thee tomorrow about this time; they shall search

thine house,

whatsoever

and the houses of thy servants; and

pleasant in thine

is

hands and take

it

it

shall

they shall put

ej'es,

it

be, that

into their

away \"

Equally insolent were the messages of the Gracia chiefs

me, both verbally and

in writing.

was only equalled by

their

to the pusillanimous

Their insolence in prosperity

meanness

On

demands.

vants with sackcloth

Very similar

in adversity.

conduct of the tyrannizing Benhadad, when

defeated by the monarch of Israel, to

his insolent

to

upon

whom

this reverse

their loins,

with a supplication to spare his

he had so lately sent

of fortune he sent his ser-

and ropes on

their

necks,

life;

a request with which the

king of Israel imprudently complied.

This hardly exceeds the

insolence of the Gracias before the conquest of

abject behaviour afterwards.

Many

of the

Mandwa, nor

letters

their

and messages

from their princes, delivered at the gates of Dhuboy, were not

spirit,

but in words, replete with expressions of impregnable rocks,

swelling rivers, birds of

tive

omen

soaring aloft, and a variety of fioura-

language so exactly resembling that on ancient record, that

cannot omit
that

in

it.

"he dwelt

that he

Gomanny

in the clefts

had made

of the strong.

Sihng, especially, gave

me

to

understand

of the rock, on the height of the

his nest high as the eagle,

it

hiil;

was the habitation

Although we should come up as a

lion

from the

225
we should

which we

swellings

of Jordan,

glorified;

even to the valleys and the plains, which were the right

flee

to the plains in

of their inheritance."

Mandwa, and

After the conquest of

tedious negocialions with

the Gracia chieftains of Vazeria and Veloria, they

reluctantly

entered into the Bhaut security, finding no other terms would be

my

admitted, and finally acceded to

demands.

They engaged

Ryjee Sihng, the head Bhaut of Serulah, and several others of the

most respectable
ance of the
articles

families, to

become guarantees

for their

perform-

treaties entered into with their respective chiefs.

The

of peace and friendship between them and the East India

Compan}

r
,

were duly

ratified in

the

Dhuboy

durbar, and there

guaranteed by the Bhauts, who signed their names, and instead of

affixing a seal,

ment of

drew the

figure of a cattara, or dagger, their instru-

death, opposite

to

The female

each name.

hostages

were then dismissed, tranquillity was perfectly restored, and not

a Gracia was to be seen within the company's
at the conclusion of

holding

all

my

third year, I

the purgunnas intrusted to

tivated, populous,

and happy.

had the

my

So that

districts.

satisfaction of be-

management,

well cul-

Colonel Wilks's History of Mysoor

contains an excellent note on the Bhauts, with which I shall con-

clude

my

account of these extraordinary people.

" Bart, baut, batt, as

it

is

different^ pronounced,

is

a curious

approximation to the name of the western bard; and their

nearly

ave

similar.

No

Hindoo

rajah

Hyder, although not a Hindoo, delighted

to

ceded by them; and they are an appendage

other

Mussulman

yoL. Hi.

chiefs.

without

is

bards.

be constantly pre-

to the state of

They have a wonderful

2

his

offices

facility in

many
speak-

226
iag inaprovisatore, on any subject proposed to them;
tion in measures,

between blank
fession

is

which may be considered

verse,

them

to

while marshalling

emulate the glory of

declama-

medium

sort of

proper pro-

their

of former days

the exploits

for battle,

in

the

and inclining

Many

their ancestors.

known of bards who have given

are

and modulated prose; but

that of chanting

front of the troops,

as

instances

the example, as well as the

precept, of devoting themselves for their king, by leading into the

thickest of the battle.

" At the nuptials (says the legend) of Siva (the destructive

member

of the Indian triad) with

that the pleasures of the

festival

Parvati, the deity

discovered

were uncomplete, and instantly

created poets, for the purpose of singing his exploits to the as-

sembly of the gods: they continued afterwards

court or paradise of
vati to sing

to

reside at his

Kylasnm: and being one day desired by Par-

her praises, submissively excused themselves, by re-

minding her of the exclusive object of

their

creation,

namely,

" to chant the praise of heroes."

Parvati, enraged

courteous refusal, pronounced on

them the curse of perpetual

at their un-

poverty; and the bards remonstrating with Siva against

merited

fate,

were informed that nothing

visit

the

plenty,

un-

rould evade the

That although he could not cancel, he would

wrath of Parvati.
alleviate the curse

human

this

terrestrial

that they should accordingly be permitled to

world; where, although sometimes riches and

and always approbation, would be showered over them

by the sovereigns of the earth, the former of these

never remain with them; and

that

of Parvati, should be ever poor.

gifts

should

poets, according to the decree

The

alleged prediction contri-

22/
bules to

its

own

for not being

"

fulfilment,

much

and

is

the apology of the Indian bards

addicted to abstinence of any kind."

Mundanee Misroodoo, who

in the

beginning of the Caly-yoog, introduced certain ordinances,

among

The legend

adverts to a

which was the prohibition of animal food; a reform which the

brahmins consented, but the bards refused,

Mackenzie conjectures

that the

name Misroodoo may

designate the country of the reformer

this well

adopt.

to

Shenker Acharee

priesthood.

is

possibly

Egypt; and that

Mis?\

known reform may have been introduced

the Egyptian

Major

into India

mentioned

in

by
the

legend as reviving, at a period long subsequent, some of the doctrines of Misroodoo;

commencement

and Shenker Acharee probably lived about the

of the christian sera."

Although Parvati, according

to the

preceding legend, inflicted

a severe punishment on the bards for not singing her praises, the
ladies in the easthave
tion.

in

Their eulogy

adopted other modes of obtainingthat satisfac-

may

perhaps be

less public,

Many

Hindostan than some other parts of Asia.

scripture

passages of

and ancient history mention singing-men and singing-

women sounding
tirely confine

who was

and more limited

the praises of heroes in public; but

do not en-

And

d'Arvieux,

those panegyrics to the male sex.

present at the

an emir, or great

visit

of an Arabian princess to the wife of

chieftain, at her tents, says,

" she was mounted

on a camel, covered with a carpet, and decked with flowers; a

dozen

women marched

in a

row before

her, holding the camel's

halter with one hand: they sung the praises of their mistress,

songs which expressed joy, and the happiness of being

of such a beautiful and amiable lady.

and

in the service

Those which went

first,

228
and were more

came

distant from her person,

turn to the

in their

head of the camei, and look hold of the halter; which place, as
being ihe post of honour, they quitted to others when the princess

had gone a few paces. The

erim's wife sent her

women

whom the halter was entirely quitted out of

women putting themselves behind the camel.
to the tent

and good qualities of

dans la Palestine,

will

own

order they

this

all

toge-

Voy.

this princess."

p. 249-

The Ayeen Akbery mentions both

The Hindoos say

In

They then sung

where she alighted.

ther the beauty, birth,

her

respect,

to

marched

to meet, her,

that

the Bhauts and Charuns.

Charun or Churrun, was created from the

of Mahadeo, and that Bhaut issued from his spine; that these

were the founders of two distinct

sang the praises
events.

The

who

Charun composed

to

mankind

name

bear his

and

reciting genealogies.

in

past

verses,

and future

are his descendants; the

them employ themselves

greatest part of

celebration,

and revealed

of,

tribe

tribes

in
In.

hymns of

singing

battle they repeat

warlike fables, to animate the troops; and they are also famous
for discovering secret

tribe

so called;

who

Bhaut was

things.

at least equal the

troops by martial songs, and

charuns are better

out Hindostan

The
diately

people;

is

hardly a great

Gracias brought

acquainted with the Hindoo

quent occasions of

in

animating the

man

but the

through-

not some of these tribes in his service.

transactions with the

phets, of Guzerat.

Charuns

chronology excel them

There

soldiers.

who hath

in

the progenitor of the

my

During
slight

and pro-

seers, astrologers,

residence at

intercourse

who had pretended

me more imme-

to foretel

Dhuboy

had

fre-

with these extraordinary

my

periods of happiness,

229
and warn me of impending dangers.
Michaiah, and other
not

found

false seers, I

were

their predictions

These astrologers were consulted by the Gracia

infallible.

chieftains on

But, like the prophecies of

the

rumour of the expedition against Mandwa.

first

Oriental sovereigns of far more importance attend to their divinations on the events of war, or the terms of peace.

was the

for, as

seer of

Aram by

the king of

They

Moab, when

are sent

the armies

of Israel approached his territories, to curse a people that were

On

too mighty for him.

to

the prophet's arrival the king took

him

Zophim, and the high-places of Baal; from whence they be-

held the goodly tents of Jacob, and the tabernacles of Israel,

spread forth

in the vallies, as

gardens by the

river's side, as

cedar

beside the waters; " from hence," said the desponding

trees

narch, "

come

curse

me

Jacob, and defy

me

Israel."

1 shall

mopro-

ceed no further with this sublime and beautiful episode, than to

remark

that

Balaam was not a prophet of

who were

the oriental seers

extend

their

prophecies

the source of

told

then consulted on important occa-

and were sometimes permitted

sions,

to

but one of

Israel,

distant

to

solemn

utter

We

periods.

Balaam's inspiration on

this

truths,

and

are expressly

occasion.

His

parables not only foretold the success of the Jewish army, but, in
the sublimest strains, predicted the
I

coming of

the Messiah

have introduced the seer of Aram and

his

interview

with

Balak on mount Zophim, from a coincidence of circumstances,

when
them.

the Gracias

first

believed the reality of an expedition against

Gomanny Sihng and

his confederates

principal brahminical astrologers

then sent for the

and soothsayers; who,

as usual,

230
received the reward of divination, and flattered the vanity of the

Mandwa
nable,

by assuring him that

chieftain,

that the

English arms would

Gracias might set our threat

couraged them

to

his fortress

was impreg-

not prevail, and

that the

These predictions en-

at defiance.

continue their depredations, and increased their

insolence and cruelty.

The

seers

brahmin

and diviners

tribe:

in

Hindostan are not confined to the

they are to be found of various descriptions, and

of both sexes; from the prince, who, like Joseph, divineth by his

cup, to the humble fortune-teller, who, like the wandering gipsy,

receives a small donation for his prediction.

similar occurrences;

and from other

classical

Plutarch mentions
writers

we

find the

Greeks and Romans believed some men were endowed with power

by

the gods, to devote not only individuals, but whole armies to

death.

Homer

frequently introduces the seers and augurs in the

Grecian and Trojan armies.

"

This, Telemus, Eurymides foretold,

" The mighty

"

who on

Skill'd the dark fates

" And

The

seer,

astrologers

learn'd in

all

these hills

grew old;

of mortals to declare,

wing'd omens of the

and magicians at

air."

Rome

at length

fell

into such

disrepute, that, according to Tacitus, the whole tribe was banished

from Italy, by a decree of theSenate.

Two of them

were put

to

death;

one was thrown from the Tarpeian rock, and the other executed,
the sound of a trumpet, on the outside of the Esquiline gate.

at

The

magicians of Chaldea, and the professors of judicial astrology,

231
wishing

be deemed

to

mathematicians, a

men

of real science, called themselves

name which

frequently occurs in the Annals

of Tacitus.

Many

augurs and soothsayers

particular caste or tribe, are I

in

though not of any

India,

and educated

believe set apart

We

the purpose in the seminaries of the Brahmins.

among

read of the schools of the prophets

pupils, probably, were afterwards dignified

or

endowed with any supernatural

when

invested

And

fruit.

to

On

"

imagine that

the

in

many Hindoo

my

as I

followed

people Israel."

seminaries, instead of
in those liberal

and

human

acquirements, which expand the ideas, and dignify

nature, the pupils are instructed in astrology,

tical

was no prophet,

Lord took me

encouraging mental and moral improvement,

solid

title,

Amos,

the contrary,

Go, prophesy unto

the flock, and said unto me,

led

with that sacred

prophet's son; but I was an herdsman, and a

gatherer of sycamore

am

frequently

the Jews; few of the

with that high honour, says

neither was I a

gift.

for

geomancy, cabalis-

knowledge, and similar attainments, which tend to weaken

Unlike the great and wise

and degrade the rational character.

Akber,

who

instituted

public schools throughout his extensive

empire, where, after the boys had been taught the

Persian alphabet, and the

first

letters

of the

rudiments of science, they were

then instructed in morality, arithmetic,, astronomy, geometry, agriculture, oeconomics,

physic, logic,

natural

mathematics, divinity, history, and the

art of

philosophy, abstract

government.

Hindoo schools every one was educated according

stances, or particular views in

adopted

in

many

life.

civilized countries of

to his

In the

circum-

plan which might be wisely

Europe.

From

those regu-

232
mentioned

lations

Aycen Akbery,

in the

the schools of Hindostan

and the colleges became the

obtained a new form;

lights

and

ornaments of the empire.

have omitted geomancy among the sciences taught

in the

schools of Akber, as undeserving a place in his liberal plan of

education; but, distinct from the diviners and soothsayers lately

mentioned,

there

most

in

cities

of females,

Greeks and Romans;

the

to their

Ahmedabad, Baroche, Dhuboy, and

are called

skilled

and

in

wise-women, which exactly answers

amongst the modern Indians.

appellation

"

banished Absalom.

after

come unto
put
in

that

had a long time mourned

the king,

and speak

in this

mouth."

From

his story into her

which the king treated her,

we may judge
days.

They

to

David had

for

oil;

but be

the dead;

and

manner unto him.

So Joab

the kind respectful

manner

after hearing the

melancholy

tale,

of the high estimation of these wise-women in those

are frequently introduced by the ancient poets under

the denomination of enchanters, diviners,

power was supposed

to

had power over

as

all

and charmers.

be very great; and they used

devices to accomplish their purpose.

Theocritus,

was

It

pray thee feign thyself to be a mourner;

put on mourning apparel, and anoint not thyself with

woman

known

well

our translations from

one of these that Joab thus addressed himself,

as a

astrology,

in

women were

fortune-telling; these

Hebrew they

the

in

India, a class

geomancy, and

among

are

the elements;

consulted by a

Their
various

Ovid introduces one who

and another mentioned by

love-sick

swain,

exactly

corre-

sponds with a circumstance which came immediately within

own knowledge.

my

'

233
" All

this I did,

" Whether

" To
"

Wise

design'd to prove

should be happy in

Agrlo next,

made

venge, and

other

could recite

luded

now

consulted by

passions prevalent in an

Asiatic

zenana.

anecdotes similar to those in Persian

but will confine myself to that above

tales,

al-

to.

young gentleman, when

districts in

collector in

Guzerat, separated from

all

one of the Company's

European

no

justification

is

though the most

offered,

formed

society,

a temporary connection with an amiable Hindoo

step

young peo-

subject; especially on the jealousy, re-

many modern

and Arabian

demand,

cross'd her hand."

ladies of this description are

same

my love:

the same

A cunning-woman she, I

ple in India, on the

when

girl;

for this

rigidly virtuous

would, perhaps, make some allowance for influence of climate

and custom, a

from European refinement and

total seclusion

elegant society; and the impossibility, thus situated, of forming

an honourable union with one of

christian

cottager,

his

fair

countrywomen.

In a

country, where every man, from the sovereign to the

may wed

the object of his affections, and where indivi-

dual example influences the circle in which he moves, a deviation

from moral rectitude admits not of

this extenuation;

but when

seduction or adultery aggravate the crime, the evil strikes deep at

moral and religious principle, and destroys domestic comfort.

The example of
fect

this

among a people who

tised the

III.

little ef-

neither professed the religion, nor prac-

manners of Europe.

stant, delicate,

VOL.

young Englishman could have

and sincere

His attachment to Zeida was con-

he never saw her at her

2

own

house,

234
and she entered the durbar by a private door
Three years had passed
lovely

girl,

this

the

garden.

manner, when one evening the

her eyes suffused in tears, informed her protector that

knowing he would
a

in

in

good family

shortly return to Europe, a cavalry officer

in her

own

casle,

had offered

posal she never would have listened

to

marry her; a pro-

had he remained

to,

of

in

India;

but under the idea of losing him, she requested his counsel on a

scheme
this

friend, delighted with

honourable establishment, readily consented, and the marriage

took place.
tht;

Her

so important to her happiness.

Zeida lived with her husband

from prudential reasons

city;

and from the

different

generally
curtain,

warm
slept

on the

a remote part of

former intercourse ceased;

all

between Europeans and

life

was heard of Zeida

Asiatics, nothing

In the

modes of

in

for

many months.

nights preceding the rainy season, the

upon a
flat

sofa,

youth

placed under a gauze musquito-

roof of the durbar; to which there was one

ascent from the interior, and another by an outer flight of steps

from the garden.

moon-light nights
in

While reposing there on one of those delightful

known only between

the tropics,

and apparently

a dream, he thought something gently pressed his heart, and

caused a peculiar glow, accompanied by a spicy odour, which

impregnated the atmosphere; under

this sensation

he awoke, and

beheld a female reclining over him in a graceful attitude.

Her

personal charms, costly jewels, and elegant attire were discernable

through a transparent

veil,

upper part concealed her

a double fold artfully falling over the

features.

Her

left

hand contained a

box of perfumed ointment, with which her right was

ing his bosom, nearest the region of the heart.

softly anoint-

Doubtful whether

235
the scene was real, or the effect of a

mained

some moments

for

lost in

warm

imagination, he re-

astonishment; when the lovely

decked with

stranger, throwing aside her veil, discovered Zeida,

every charm that youth and beauty could assume on such an

interesting visit.

When

his surprise subsided,

had turned out unfortunate;

hitherto forbore to trouble

amendment

Zeida informed him the marriage

in

hopes of happier days she had

him with complaints; but seeing no

she seized the opportunity of her husband's absence

to repair to the durbar, in

hopes of regaining that affection which

had formerly constituted her happiness.

she had previously consulted the most celebrated cunning-

tion,

woman
was

to

in the city

apply by

object beloved

who prepared a box of ointment, which

stealth,

and,

as near as

if so

accomplishing her wishes.

friend;

and

Fearful of a cool recep-

he

she

possible to the heart of the

far successful, she

might be assured of

Zeida knew not the character of her

resisted the tear of beauty,

and the eloquence of

having; convinced her of the difference

between

their

love;

former

attachment, and the crime of adultery, persuaded her to return

home

before the approaching

of her

visit.

dawn discovered

the impropriety

Oriental poets paint the tender passion with

all

the glow of

fancy and power of language: as Sir William Ousley observes,

" in their descriptions of beauty, they indulge the most extrava-

gant license; the earth affords few objects sufficiently amiable or

beautiful,

to

be admitted into their similies; the blushing rose

Avithcrs at the superior

glow of a

mistress's

cheek; and the lofty

236
cypress

The

is

confounded

and majesty of her

at the grace

Persian poet ascends into the clouds of fiction, and seeks

among
among

some resemblance

the aerial race of Peries,

but seldom contented

in

this

moon and

the stars, the

the sun; and his aspiring imagi-

more sublime

\"

Zeida was not a dull pupil in

without love

is

of

school; she

this

felt

that

life

value, as poignantly as Khosroo, Hafiz, or

little

any of the Persian

Seeking objects

imagination conceive any more beautiful,

of comparison, could
brilliant,

to his beloved;

intermediate state, he exalts himself

nation would soar, no doubt, even above these.

more

stature.

The

poets.

sentiments, so

much

extolled in

the Yusef Zelekha of Jami, only express those, which, in unstudied

language, flowed from the lips of Zeida at this affecting interview.

" Enrapt
*'

Zelekha,

all

her soul on

fire,

Flew from her home, t'accomplish her

" The raven night now slowly wings

" The

bird of

morning

" Th' enchanting

their veils aside:

" The

virgin jasmin bathes her face in

" The

violet scents

" But

sad Zelekha

dew,

her locks of azure hue:

knows no

pleasing rest,

hopes and fears possess her anxious breast

" Her powers of reason

" Prompting
" Smiling,
"

in rival pride,

" The blooming rose-buds throw

" While

way,

new-born day

hails the

warblers sing

its

desire

wild despair disarms,

to scatter all her roseate

to

all

charms

she wears the face of joy,

A thousand flames her burning

breast destroy.

237
"

Night, more than day, desiring lovers

" For

"

tliat

bestows the

veil.

seeks in solitude relief from woe.

In youth's gay garden, like

" Pure and

"

this

Conceal'd by night, she gives her griefs to flow,

" And

"

withdraws, but

hail,

unruffled, as

life's

a flower she rose,

water flows

Giv'n to the winds, away her peace

" Upon

is

flown

her bed unnumber'd thorns are strown."

Respecting the virtues of the ointment prepared by the experienced matron, such charms are generally credited in India

many

them are found

allusions to

ment poured

forth/'

in oriental stories; the

and similar expressions

have probably the same tendency.

The

in

"oint-

Solomon's Song,

ancient poets abound

with philtres, charms, and medicaments, to excite the tender passion.

Unguents, bones of snakes, blood of doves, and a variety

Roman writers; espehippomanes.

Many appropriate

of potions are mentioned by the Greek and

cially the

Arcadian plant called

passages might be quoted from Homer, Virgil, and Proper tius.

One from Horace, where Canidia seems

a similar situation with Zeida,

Atque nee herba, nee

Radix

fefellit

Indormit unctis

will suffice.

latens in asperis

me locis.

omnium

cubilibus

Oblivione pellicucum.

Ah,

to

ah, solutus nmbulat veneficae

Scientioris carmine.

have been be placed

in

238
Then what am

There's not an herb doth grow.

Nor

root, but

And

can the craggy

Yet Varus

And

Ah

my

slights

sleeps

much

their virtue:;

my

pow'r.

on rosy beds secure

fear

would be endless

to these spells

shew

pi

love, above

some

Defends him from

It

know,

rival's

my

greater skill

weaker

spell.

repeat the variety of instances relating

to

and incantalions which were continually brought

before the courts of adawlet in Baroche and

Dhuboy, where they

Those brought

could neither be refuted nor counteracted.

were generally more intended for de-

light in the public court

struction

by poison, than

To

passion.

mendey, or

effect

for the creation or revival of

al'hinna, a fragrant

women

whence

that

passage

full

human

in the oriental

this plant the In-

crimson dye; from

" Like me,

Minna!

of blood; whose foot art thou desirous

spells

and appropriated

the exception of

fingers of a

a Hindoo song,

in

The other

of kissing?"

and elegant shrub

and

the lender

virtues are attributed to the

With the leaves of

tinge their nails

thy heart has long been

materials,

many

the latter

gardens, already mentioned.

dian

to

to

were composed of

less

innocent

more iniquitous purposes.

With

ingredients, they bore a very near resem-

blance to the singular anecdote recorded by Tacitus, and confirmed by Dio Cassius, respecting the death of Germanieus;

was supposed

to

have been poisoned at Anlioch, by the secret

orders of Piso, by
titioner in

these

who

means of Martina, a celebrated female prac-

arts.

"

Under

of the walls, a collection of

the floor,

and

human bones was

in

the

cavities

found, with charms,

239
and magic

verses,

and incantations.

was graved on plates of lead

quite

consumed

to ashes,

The name of Germanicus

fragments of

were discovered

with a variety of those magic

spells,

human

bodies, not

in a putrid condition

which, according to the vul-

gar opinion, are of potency to devote the souls of the living to

the infernal gods."

CHAPTER

XXX11I.

AN EXCURSION INTO THE BUODERAH PURGUNNA,

AND OTHER DISTRICTS IN THE
PROVINCE OF GUZERAT.
1783.

" Quantos payzes,

As many

And

tantos costumbres."

countries, so

many

often did he pry through Nature's store,

Whate'er she

in th' ethereal

round contains,

Whatever she hides beneath her verdant

The
Or

else

floor,

vegetable and the mineral reigns

he scann'd the globe, those small domains,

Where

restless

mortals such a turmoil keep,

Its seas, its floods, its

mountains, and

its

plains,

But more he search'd the mind, and rous'd from

Those

VOL. III.

Spanish Pkovbk.

customs.

moral seeds

whence we

2 I

heroic actions reap."

sleep

Thomson.

CONTENTS.
Excursion with the new chief of Baroche, and a party, through the

English purgunnas in Guzerat

travelling

Cubbeer-Burr

the

bats

cold

of

season

enormous

delightful for

size

serpents

extraordinary anecdote
family
of Lullabhy weddings

cure of their venomous bite by Lullabhy

on that subject

character

behaviour on

in his

description of Cor
Ranghur Baubul forests; method of killing the antelopes pleasant

manner of
comforts

travelling
life

doo mother
tion

the death of his daughter

Vanjarrahs,

their commercial journeys

of the palanquin-bearers

country

near Zinore

of the Mharatta armies

all

and

anecdote of a young Hin-

pass

depredaof Guzerat

of Bowa-peer

beauty and fertility

Hindoo superstition questions respecting the

Sketches arrival at
recluse brahmins answered from Crai/f

revisit

Chandode

iird's

Dhnboy

from

improvement

of that purgunna

the Princess Charlotte of

??iiseries

Meck/enburgh

Strelitz

in agriculture

in

the capital of the

Guicwars described

debauched character

of Indian

to the

letter

King

of Pon>aghur Brodera

durbar
of
princes haram mahomedan

suggested improvements
Indiamountain
landed property
of Prussia

of war

interior

and revenue

the

mosques and sepulchresfuneral ceremonies grand wells

inscriptions Rebekah and Eliezergreat men travel with water
in jars stone bridge provisions at Brodera cheapness and abunwomen

dance in other

districts

-few

wants

in

India

superior

beauty of

the Broiler a
district

purgunna-

villages

lotoslotophagi valuable

produce of the

oppressions of government character

of Futty

horn of victory
daughters
durbar respecting Khiwedding presents anecdote at
magnificent wedding of Vazeer Ally character of Asufud-Dowlah anecdote of Hyder Ally, and
from that prince
Sihng

his

invitation

titles

his

to

Sindia's

luts

letter

to

Colonel

the
the

Third

happy

influence

letter

presents

from

the

Mharatta Peshwa

of the British government

at a

flattery of Futty

Sultaun's sleeping

system

expected

consequences to be

ceremonies

to

George

on that occasion insignificant compared with

of ancient sovereigns

munificence

Akber

doos

Wood

in

Hindoo wedding

Sihng's heralds

apartment

of oppression

from

India

the

music

cremation

chamber

power and
of the Hin-

of widows

of mirrors

Tippoo

noble traits in Leber's character

weighing of the royal person

and
of Akberzodiac rupees delightful encampment near
Brodera cold
India wretched
of the Chandalahs
compared with the brahmins
of the system and general
character of the Hindoos Meah Gaum Rajah
amiable character death and character of Hiroo Nand
of
compared

with Alfred

coins

seals

state

in

injustice

his

sacrifice

his

her superior endowments compared with celebrated Engfemales mahomedan women extraordinary character of

widow
lish

Avyar, a Hindoo female philosopher and celebrated author extracts

tillers

from her writings

serpents

serpent-caters

locusts

dis-

potters Hindoo deitiesfloods average of annual rain.

CHAPTER

The

XXXIII.

present chapter formed the contents of a letter to a

of council at
to obtain

Bombay, who had never been

in

member

Guzerat, and wished

some information respecting the English purgunnas

that province.

in

few repetitions of circumstances mentioned in

former chapters, extracted from a correspondence with friends in

England,

may have escaped

tautology and

to

notice; I have endeavoured to avoid

suppress redundancy, except where

it

would have

disturbed the sense or broken the connexion.

In the month of January, 1783,

accompanied the chief of

Baroche, then lately arrived from Bombay, on a tour through

the purgunnas under his jurisdiction, as collector-general.

formed a
cers

social party of five English gentlemen, with

and attendants;

it

being necessary for those

tions in India to preserve a respectable

the natives.

We spent

three

weeks

who

appearance

proper

fill

all

We
offi-

high sta-

in the eyes of

in this delightful tour, although

the distance did not exceed two hundred miles.

December, Ja-

nuary, and February, are the best months for travelling in Guzerat;
the mornings

and evenings are

cold,

and the whole day temperate

246
The thermometer

and

pleasant.

60,

sometimes considerably lower, and at noon,

at sun-rise

is

frequently under
until the

warmest

time of the day, seldom exceeds 70; during the hot winds

may

be tolerably cool,

to 100,

and on the plains

succeeding months, although the morning

the thermometer gradually rises from

of Nairangseer, near

Cambay,

70

in the

have seen

116

it

in

the soldiers'

tents.

On

leaving Baroche and

its

extensive suburbs,

twelve miles near the banks of the Nerbudda, to our

we

travelled

first

encamp-

ment, under Cubbeer-Burr, (ficus lndica) one of the most magnificent banian-trees in

India, forming a

canopy of verdant

foliage

impenetrable to a tropic sun, extending over a circumference of

two thousand

feet.

dreadful storm and sudden swell of the river

had, a few months before, diminished

number of
and

its

fifty, all

The
are w

ell

its

beauty and reduced the

trunks, which formerly exceeded thirteen

hundred

traced to one parent stem.

birds,

monkeys, and serpents abounding

known.

The enormous

in

Cubbeer-Burr

bats which darken

its

branches

frequently exceed six feet in length from the tip of each wing, and

from

their

resemblance

flying-foxes.

to that

animal, are not improperly called

Bats of this magnitude are a kind of monster, ex-

tremely disagreeable both

in

smell

have been the harpies mentioned by

" When from

" And

" And

These large

r*

They must

Virgil.

the mountain-tops with hideous cry,

clattering

" They

and appearance.

wings the hungry harpies

snatch the meat, defiling

all

fly

they find

parting, leave a loathsome stench behind."

bats, like the rest of their species,

suspend them-

\.

^
*

247
by the claw, or hook on the wings with

selves

wards,

when they repose

thousands

in the

hang by

Archdeacon Paley

shades of Cubbeer-Burr.

and also a compensating contrivance.

there

heads down-

or eat, in which posture they

marks, that " the hook in the wing of a bat

cal,

their

is

At

strictly

re^

a mechani-

the angle of

its

wing

a bent claw, exactly in the form of a hook, by which the

is

bat attaches itself to the sides of rocks, caves, and buildings, laying

hold of crevices, joinings, chinks, and roughnesses.

by

this position,
its

remains suspended by

this claw,

legs

and

helpless of

from the ground

in

these inabilities are

her wing

the Creator has deviated from

link

and

in

feet,

made up

nor

to her

placing a claw in that part

the analogy observed on winged

singular defect required a singular substitute."

As some of

human

from

for the decrepitude of

She can neither run upon her

animals.

by the contrivance

animals.

itself

Without her hook, the bat would be the most

feet.

raise herself

hooks

this hold, takes its flight

which operations compensate

all

It

the

monkey

tribe

seem

to unite the brute to the

species, in the great chain of creation, so the bat forms the

between birds and

class they belong.

feathered race

beasts.

Naturalists have disputed to which

Pliny and the ancients place them

among

the moderns, with greater propriety, arrange

with quadrupeds.

them

Like a bird they have wings, and the power of

flying; unlike the oviparous tribes, they bring forth their

alive,

and suckle them

teeth,

and shaped

The most

the

the

like that of

mouth

is

young

furnished with very sharp

a fox.

disagreeable inhabitants of this verdant caravansary

are snakes, which in great variety dwell

malignant, others innocuous.

among

The monkeys

the branches

destroy a

some

number of

248
these reptiles

sufficient

still

remain to cause anxiety

before his slumbering siesta, or nightly repose

nary

how few

in

yet

it

is

travelling are

accustomed only

mat, or cotton carpet, on the earth when they sleep.

mentioned circumstances irreconcileable

sionally

constantly occurring

extraordi-

happen from venomous creatures

accidents

where the natives

a sojourner

in

among

the Hindoos.

to spread a

have occa-

Europeans,

to

insert

in India,

another anec-

dote respecting the bite of a serpent, and the consequences which

look place at Baroche the year before I

shall only affirm that
fact,

from which

At Baroche

man

richest

He was

my

relation

is

do not pretend

to

made

this

excursion

an unembellished matter of

draw any conclusion.

was intimate with a Banian named Lullabhy, the

in the city,

and of great influence

universally believed to possess the

in the

purgunna.

power of curing

the bite

of venomous serpents, by a knowledge peculiar to himself, which

he never imparted to another.

many

By

this art

he certainly recovered

natives from a desperate state, after being

wounded by

the

cobra-di-capello, and the scarlet snake of Cubbeer-Burr, without

touching the
talent of

patient or prescribing any thing inwardly.

Lullabhy seemed

ancient Psylli, or the

to

have no

it

may,

where established.

with that of the

modern snake-charmers, but probably was

not unlike the science professed by

be that as

affinity

The

Mesmer

or Dr. de

Mainoduc

his

fame

for effecting these cures

was every

Mr.

Perrolt, then second in council,

and some

other of the civil servants at Baroche, were satisfied with a cure of

which they had been frequent witnesses.

Of

all

the Europeans I was acquainted with in India, Mr.

Robert Gambier, at that time chief of Baroche, was perhaps the

249
most incredulous respecting talismans, charms, divinations, and
preternatural pretensions of the brahmins.

bhy 's

talent

was publicly known

den now afforded a

fair

His opinion of Lulla-

a circumstance in his own gar-

opportunity of delecting

its

of the under-gardeners working between the pavilions was

a cobra-di-capello, and pronounced to be

was then holding a council

in

One

fallacy.

danger. Mr.

bit

by

Gambier

an upper pavilion, and, at the desire

in

of Mr. Perrott, immediately sent for Lullabhy, without informing

him of the

accident, of which he remained ignorant until ushered

The gardener was

into the chief's presence.

of coir-rope, in

asked

if

he could

lying on a slight bed

a veranda adjoining the council-room.

Lullabhy modestly replied, that by

effect a cure,

The poor wretch

God's blessing he trusted he should succeed.

was at

came

this

time in great agony, and delirious

torpid and speechless

commence

when Lullabhy

it

the man's pulse by a stop-watch,

too late. Mr.

the

his dissolu-

to exert his

After a short silent prayer, Lullabhy, in presence of

company, waved

his catarra, or short dagger,

some time motionless

beat, circulation

and recovered

in

quickened

his senses.

The

over the bed

patient continued

half an hour his heart appeared to

within the hour he

moved

At the expiration of the

labhy had effected the cure.

in

any

Gambier examined

and when convinced

of the expiring man, without touching him.

and

asserted that

was inevitably approaching, he allowed Lullabhy

influence.

for

he afterwards be-

The members of council anxiously waited

his operation.

further loss of time would render

all

Lullabhy was not permitted to

still

the chief's permission, especially

tion

Being

The man was

sent

third

home

his limbs

hour Lul-

to his family,

a few days recovered from the weakness occasioned by con-

vol. in.

250
which probably would neither have been so

vulsive paroxysms,

3evere or of such long continuance, had

the counteracting

power

been sooner applied.

Lullabhy was not only the principal zemindar of Baroche, but

one of the most opulent men

Guzerat.

unnecessary on

It is

occasion to investigate his character as a zemindar,

this

and Ryots, or

Patels
I

in

to inquire

how

.Asiatics

in

my own

view the nefarious transactions

purgunnas

in the

department differently from a conscientious Englishman,

silent

As a

on that subject.

appeared very conspicuous

sum

money

of

the

he accumulated his wealth.

have stated the conduct of zemindars

and as the

among

charitable

man,

this

revenue

I shall

be

wealthy Banian

he daily appropriated a considerable

to alms-giving

mendicant was dismissed from

and relieving persons

his gate

in distress;

without a measure of

or a mess of vegetable pottage mingled with meal.

no

rice,

In time of

dearth he distributed grain throughout the villages in the Baroche

district

gion.
several

the

nor was his bounty confined to those of the Hindoo

He repaired public tanks and choultries for travellers, dug

common wells, and constructed a bowree, or large well, in

Baroche suburbs, with steps leading down

hewn

reli-

stone, in a very

handsome

to the water, all

style of architecture.

marble

tablet placed over the fountain of this noble reservoir, contains

short inscription

more expressive and

guage than can be given

" The

About
his son,

this

in

of

beautiful in the Persian lan-

an English translation.

bounties of Lullabhy are ever flowing."

time Lullabhy celebrated a splendid weddino- for

a boy under

five

years of age, and soon after married his

only daughter, a year younger than her brother, to a child of a

251
suitable age, in a respectable family of the

and entertainments
tions continued

to his friends

many

through the principal

The

caste.

and acquaintance of

feasts

descrip-

all

days, parading every night by torch-light,

of the city, with state horses, palan-

streets

quins, musicians, dancing-girls,

nificence, in

same

and every display of eastern mag-

which the infant brides and bridegrooms, covered with

jewels and wreaths of flowers,

former in palanquins, the

processions, illuminated
illustrate the

made

latter

a splendid appearance; the

on led

These nocturnal

horses.

by many hundred massauls, or torches,

parable of the ten virgins, as each torch-bearer carries

a lighted flambeau

in

one hand and a brass

vessel containing oil to

Lullabhy's presents on

feed the flame in the other.

occasion

this

were extensive and valuable, considerably exceeding a lac of rupees,

upwards of twelve thousand pounds

Not long

daughter died

after Lullabhy's

high respectability,

all

those

being a

man

of such

felt

sincerely for his loss.

and family customs on the death of relations are

piously and strictly attended to by

all

castes of Hindoos.

the days of mourning were accomplished, I was surprised

much
from

earlier visit
his

hackaree

from Lullabhy than

I received

him

He

expected.

On

by a

alighting

awaken

and

his parental feel-

led to the subject himself, and, with a smile of resigna-

tion if not of cheerfulness, told

prive

When

as a person under affliction,

cautiously avoided saying any thing to

ings.

now

his festivity

paid him that mark of attention,

not merely as a ceremony, but because I

religious rites

who had partaken of

sent messages of condolence.

The

sterling.

him of

his

child,

me

as

it

was the

will

of

God

to de-

he had the greatest consolation which a

father could enjoy on such an event, that of seeing her previously

252
married

had the nuptial

rite

not taken place, her death would

indeed have plunged him into deep

affliction.

Natural affection must be nearly the same

countries, but the

the death of a

filial

all

climates and

numerous and prolonged ceremonies required on

Hindoo seem

alleviate the sorrow,

the

in

some measure

in

to supersede

which might otherwise take deeper root

Mourners are hired

or parental breast.

appears from a passage in the prophet Amos, that

art

" wailing shall be

shall call

the

and they

the streets,

It

sort of

this

among

mourning and lamentation was a kind of

in

in

at the obsequies

of Hindoos and Mahoinedans, as they were in ancient days.

skilful of

and

the

Jews

such as are

lamentation to wailing."

From Cubbeer-Burr we continued our route for ten miles alonobanks of the Nerbudda to Corall, a small town, which gives its

name

to

an inconsiderable

district,

then belonging to the company,

producing a revenue of forty thousand rupees.

bank of the

situated on the

river, contains

few Hindoo temples, and a gurry, or

Some of the

villages are large

well cultivated,

scribed in the

Our next
small

capital,

tolerable houses, a

of no great strength.

and populous, the country

o-enerally

districts.

stage was only nine miles from Corall, to

fortress

situation,

on a

where

lofty

We

bank of the

Ranghur a
Nerbudda, in a com-

had a delightful summer apartment

overlooking the rural plains and

the river.

fortress,

little

producing abundant crops, similar to those de-

Dhuboy

compact

manding

some

The

woody

hills

on the south side of

passed a few villages belonging to the Broderah

purgunna, and on approaching Ranghur entered an extensive plain

covered with baubul

trees,

a beautiful species of mimosa, produc-

253
ing gum-arabic, and affording cover to

This spot forming a part of

procured

me

district

under Dhuboy,

and other game.

well supplied with venison

ball

my

immense herds of antelopes.

an antelope, and for a rupee

purchase a deer, with two or three pea-fowl.

little

was

powder and

could at any time

For the more certain

destruction of antelopes and deer in that country, the sporlsman

covers himself with a moveable arbour of green boughs; which

concealing him from the unsuspecting animals, they

effectually

become an easy

The peacocks,

prey.

found near the Guzerat

doves, and green pigeons

villages, are nearly as

tame

as poultry in a

farm yard.
unnecessary to particularise different stages and encamp-

It is

ments on

tour:

this

we

travelled with

two

sets

of tents and ser-

vants; by which means, without a deprivation of comfort at one

station,

we found every necessary prepared

the next.

Throughout

this

for us

on arriving at

excursion we generally met with mango,

tamarind, or banian-trees, on the banks of rivers, the margin of

a lake, or near a public well: water being the

for the

cattle

ture, beds,

and attendants necessary

and every useful

fire-wood, milk, butter,

travellers,

we found

article

in

first

consideration

a country where furni-

must be carried with

and lamp-oil, are supplied

us.

gratis to

Hay,
most

according to the custom of Guzerat; and in that respect

very

little

difference whether travelling in the English

purgunnas, or the dominions of a foreign prince.

Reposing under contiguous

"osannees,

who

Mahomedan

travel over

dervises,

trees,

we

generally saw yogees,

and other

religious mendicants,

Hindoslan; and often met with large caravans of

banjarrees, or vanjarrahs, a set of merchants,

who do not belong

254
to

any particular country

mutual comfort and

Each corps

dise.

These people

but

and unite together

live in tents,

merchan-

safety, in the transportation of their

is

travel

governed by

its

own

from interior towns

for

laws and regulations.

the

to

sea coast, with

caravans of oxen, sometimes consisting of several thousand, laden

with corn,

and manufactured goods of cotton and

oil,

return with raw

They

silk.

cotton, spices, woollen cloths, iron, copper,

and

other articles imported from Europe, and distant parts of Aia: the
greatest

number

are laden with

salt,

which

finds

a ready sale in

every habitable spot, from the sea to the summit of the Ghaut-

mountains.

The

vanjarrahs from distant countries seldom

one annual journey

ports;

seem a happy

hundred

the

commute

travelling with their wives

style, they

to

women

fires

set

make more than

merchandize at the sea-

their

and children

in the patriarchal

of people, particularly at their meals.

are often blazing together in their

camp, where

prepare curry, pilaw, or some savoury dish, to eat

with the rice and dholl, which constitutes their principal food.

Some

of these merchants travel fifteen hundred or two thousand

miles during the fair season; and, as they

they contrive to give

make

only one journey,

every possible advantage.

For

this

pur-

pose each bullock carries a double load, which they effect in

this

it

manner: moving on one stage with

children, they fix

upon a shady

their

loaded oxen, wives and

spot, to unload the cattle;

leav-

ing the family and merchandize under the care of a guard, they
drive back the

empty oxen

for

a second load;

forwards, and deposited in their tents.

move on

to

The

the next station, with the

first

which

cattle

is

brought

having rested,

packages; returning

255
empty, they proceed again with the second load, and thus continue

The van-

a trading journey, throughout the whole fair season.

jarrahs are protected

by

all

governments, pay the stated duties at

the frontier passes, and are never molested.

For further

security,

a bhaut generally accompanies the caravan; the bhauts or churrons, are a caste feared

an old

woman

whole caravan.

and respected by

of that description
If plundered, or

either the protecting bhaut, or

is

all

the

Hindoo

tribes;

a sufficient protection for a

without reparation,

treated,

ill

one of the

tribe,

sheds his blood in

presence of the aggressors; a dreadful deed, supposed to be

The

ways followed by divine vengeance.

al-

vanjarrahs are likewise

followed by conjurors, astrologers, jugglers, musicians, dancingbears, dancing-snakes,

monkeys, and various entertainments; they

gain a livelihood by what they receive in the camp, or pick

up

in

the towns and villages through which they pass.

The palanquin-bearers
had the same

set

in

India, are also a

in

happy people.

Guzerat for many years.

During a long

journey, which they generally contrive to pass very cheerfully, on

reaching their station in the evening, whether under a tree, a choultrie,

or a shed, one immediately lights a

fire,

and cleans the cook-

ing utensils; another prepares the supper; the rest

other,

or

lie

down

to repose.

consists of fewer than eight;

where each gentleman had

considerable number.
rice

and curry

mences a
ments,

is

To

champoe each

travelling set of bearers never

sometimes more; and

his

own

set

in

our party,

of bearers, they

made a

prevent their falling asleep before the

ready, the wittiest

story, similar to those in the

which always gains attention

man

in the

company com-

Arabian Nights Entertain-

and

affords

amusement.

256
These

a humble

in

who form

degree resemble the professed slory-tellcrs

part of the establishment in an oriental court.

Between Ranghur and Zinore,

stopped with one of our party

under a friendly banian-tree, near a tank,

to refresh the bearers:

woman

passed us in her way to a

temple on the opposite side of the lake.

Concluding she had gone

a young and graceful Hindoo

thither
less

on some

religious visit,

we took no

further notice;

but

in

than half an hour she returned, carrying a bundle on her arm

with such anxious care as arrested our attention.

when

of the kind

she

first

Having nothing

passed us, we inquired after the contents

smiling at the question, and removing the drapery, she shewed us

fine infant,

side, its birth

own

of which she had just delivered herself at the water-

having unexpectedly happened while walking

village at

The whole

no great distance, whither

transaction was begun

and

she.

to

her

then proceeded.

finished within the space of

half an hour.

The book of Exodus

parison between the

implies something of this kind in a

Hebrew and

the Egyptian

women.

com-

Lady

Wortley Montague makes similar observations on the Turkish, and

But

Brydone on

the Sicilian females.

to relate the

Guzerat anecdote, had not Dr. Fryer, a professional

man, made a

"

among the

rich

and lazy

should not have ventured

" The Gentoo women, at their

similar remark.

" labours, seldom call midwives

it is

a profession only in esteem

the poorer, while they are labouring or

" planting, go aside, deliver themselves, wash the child, lay

it

in

tribes

of

" a clout, and return to work again/'

Had
Guzerat,

this

who

woman

belonged to any of the unnatural

practise

female infanticide;

or had

she been a

957
young widow devoted
would have doomed
have disposed of

to celibacy,

infamy and

to

whom
loss

the birth of her child

of caste, she might here

any human

as she thought proper, without

it

and subject

witness of the transaction,

no punishment but the

to

remorse of her own conscience: fortunately she was the wife of a

peasant, and

The

became

happy mother of a

the

Ranghur

distance from

to

Zinore

fine infant.

about eleven miles,

is

through a populous, well-cultivated country, at that time under

my

From

care.

the town you descend the steep

budda by more than a hundred broad

yards

in extent.

This river

is

steps of

bounded by picturesque

chas's Pilgrims,

hewn

the Ner-

stone,

many

there a narrow stream, meandering

through a lovely scene of woods, groves,

plains,

bank of

hills

and

villages,

lofty

and cultivated

mountains.

two hundred years ago, describes Guzerat

Pur" as a

garden, where the traveller saw at once the goodliest spring and
harvest he had ever seen.

was green

as a

of wheat and
yielding

Soon

meadow,

rice.

the other yellow as gold, ready to be cut,

And

abundance of
after leaving

at Bowa-peer, where

Fields joining together, whereof one

along goodly

all

Ranghur we came
the

to the celebrated pass

Mahralta armies
the

and

Xerbudda,

ford the

Deccan mountains, on

plains like a people of old, fierce

these lovely

strong, with a fire devour-

ing before them, and behind them a flame burning;

like the

wilderness;
try to

the

land

garden of Eden before them, behind them a desolate

and from them nothing should escape.

Such a coun-

be so frequently subject to the cruel depredations

witnessed within six years,

VOL. III.

trees,

fruits/'

when rushing down from

was

of

villages, full

is

truly painful.
2

twice

Guzerat, either

in

258

the imperial city of

Ahmedabad, and

all

paign watered by the Mihi and Sabermatty,

its flat

The

or beauty, cannot easily be exceeded.

fertility

tract

round

that extensive

cham-

a perfect garden

is

surface forming a variety from the inequalities of landscape

Hindostan, though not destitute of poets and

round Zinore.
historians,

cannot

Virgil, or

Horace

have caused

be styled classic

visited this " Paradise of Nations,"

to vie with

it

Greece and

and Unibria would have courted

Tempe would

but had

ground;

An

Italy.

their

they would

oriental

Baia

muse; and the vale of

have remained unrivalled.

not

Homer,

The gardens of

Alcinous, and the streams of Tiber and Clitunmus bear

away

the

palm of antiquity

Ahmedabad, and

the noble rivers of Guzerat, far surpass them.

Homer

in

every other respect the royal retreats at

has exactly described the province of Guzerat,

"

Stern Winter smiles on that auspicious clime,

" The
*'

fields are florid

From

with unfading prime:

the bleak pole no winds inclement blow,

" Mould

the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow,

" For there

all

" Sprung from

products and

all

plants abound,

the fruitful genius

of the ground

" Fields waving high with heavy crops are seen,

" And

trees that flourish in eternal green:

"

Refreshing meads along the murmuring main,

*'

And

fountains streaming

From Zinore we proceeded

down

the fruitful plain.

ten

miles to Chandode, which

Pope's Oi>yssiv

esteemed by the Hindoos one of the most sacred spots

rat; situated

ravines

in

a romantic part of the province,

in

is

Guze-

among deep

and overhanging woods, on the banks of the Nerbudda:

259
who spend

their

apathy, and a repetition of superstitious

rites

a favourite retirement for that class of brahmins

lives in indolence,

and ceremonies, with which the generality of the Hindoos have

fortunately

priated

little

connexion

to festivals

and

amount

religion has

occupied so

worship at the temples are enjoined

to

to nearly

friend,

much

brahmins

desirous

in the sacred

The Hindoo

one third of the year.

of these volumes, that further dis-

Some

cussion would be superfluous.

sensible

their respective deities, to

sacrifices for

which the people allowed

observance,

although the number of days appro-

regarding

of information

the

recluse

seminaries of Guzerat, which I shall not

withhold from those more capable of resolving them: a

sive

me by

queries were put to

answer would explain

many

difficulties

deci-

full

which now occur

in

the brahminical ethics and religion.

Do

the brahmins consider the universal

tient, or conscious, principle in

human

Deity, and the sen-

nature, to be one and the

same Being?
If they do, under what name, or as what attribute of the

Deity, or result of sense, do they respect and consider him as

forming inherently

part of

human

nature?

For instance,

whether as Brahma, Visnoo, or Siva? or as love, power, or

ligence

Do

intel-

the brahmins consider the essence, of which sentiment or

consciousness forms an inherent part, as

or the whole of the Deity,

and a part of

essence pervading the creation in

instance,

it

all

its

do they conjecture that stones or

may constitute
human nature,
parts

a part

and forms?

as

an
For

trees, or the elements.

260
in

their forms

any of

and modifications, can have any portion,

however vague, of sensation and consciousness?

Can

human

being,

according to the brahminical ideas, ac-

cumulate within himself, or cause

have influence on

to

nature

his

Deity surrounding him, by any operation of

the essence of the

thought, self-government, or amelioration of conduct? and, can

he

lose,

by a contrary conduct, or by any encouragement of

him a portion of

cious passion within

session of,

and be thus influenced the

From my own knowledge

many

questions

elucidate

them

verse

by

less

its

" Pythagoras, returning from

a certain degree.

in

Greece, taught the doctrine of the metempsy-

mankind are emanations of

the wisest of the ancient philosophers,

with our materia] part.

Plato

(in

mankind have two

spirit,

Socrates,

have believed that

is

subject,

by

souls, of separate

it

from

union

its

God

infused into matter a

which animates and moves

the other immortal:

;

it

That

conformity to the opinions of

Hindoos) asserted, that

portion of his divine

of the body;

to

the uni-

preserved.

that Being.

seems

those seeming contrarieties to which

the divine spirit

it is

whom

before the body; and that death relieves

the soul existed

corruptible,

pos-

in

?"

cannot explicitly answer these

was created, and by whose providence

the learned

be

proximity

and the existence of a Supreme Being, by

the souls of

may

passages in Craufurd's sketches of the Hindoos,

his eastern travels to

chosis,

the Deity he

vi-

and

it:

different natures; the

that the latter

is

but the divine soul, no longer clogged by

its

existence, either in

one

a portion of

that the mortal soul ceases to exist with the

with matter, continues

that

its

life

union

a state of happiness

261
or punishment; that the souls of the virtuous return, after death,
into the source

from whence they flowed; while the souls of the

wicked, after being for a certain time confined to a place destined

for their reception, are sent

Aristotle

back

to earth to

supposed the souls of mankind

animate other bodies.

be portions, or emana-

to

of the Divine Spirit; which, at death, quit

tions,

drop of water

like a

falling into

the

body, and,

ocean, are absorbed into

Zeno, the founder of the

the divinity.

the'

stoic

sect,

taught that

throughout nature there are two eternal qualities; the one active,
the other passive: that the former

is

a pure and subtle aether,

the Divine Spirit; and that the latter

acting

upon matter, produced

Divine Spirit

is

fire,

air,

it.

He

all

nature

is

The

opinion

Divinity, which

is

Spirit,

moved

believed also that the soul of man, be-

ing a portion of the Universal Soul, returns, after death, to

source.

inert

water, and earth: that the

the efficient principle, and that

and conducted by

itself entirely

That the Divine

with the active principle.

until united

in

is

of the

soul being an

believed by the Hindoos,

its first

emanation of the

and was professed by

the Greeks, seems likewise to have been adopted by the early

Macrobius observes, Animarum originem manare de

Christians.

inter rectfe

caelo,

philosophantes indubitatse constant esse

Saint Justin says, the soul

God

and

his disciple,

is

incorruptible, because

it

emanates from

Tatianus the Assyrian, observes, that

having received a portion of the Divinity

is

fidei.

immortal as

God

man
is."

Such was the system of the ancient philosophers, Pythagoreans, brachmans,

and some

sects

of Christians.

volumes of the Hindoos are these assertions: "

thing which

is

produced

in

In the sacred

Know

nature, results from

that every

the union of

262
Keshtra and Keshtragna, matter and

Akash

(aether)

from

minuteness of

the

The

say,

it

hath been, or

a thing without
stroyed.

It

is

The

all

last

spirit

to

is

remainelh in the

is

even a portion of myself, that in

things.

all

I
I

this

text

seems

to

leaving Chandode,

we

friends a

excursions

jurisdiction,

to

before

ihw days

in

pany's

is

in

my

any other authority.

chiefly travelled.

had the pleasure of

the durbar; from

It

and seminaries of Chan-

other

we proceeded northwards

the population, industry,

districts

Bhaderpoor, and

roda, the capital of Fully Sihng.

how much

it

reluctantly quitted the beauties of the

dode, brought us to Dhuboy, where

made

is

convey an answer to the questions of

stage of ten miles from the sacred groves

my

world

things."

Nerbudda, on whose banks we had hitherto

taining

it is

am the Creator of all things,

am the soul, which is in the

to offer, either from experience, or

On

for

not to be de-

ingenious friend, more clear and satisfactory than

power

man may

be hereafter;

constant and eternal, and

birth,

passeth every

not a thing of which a

things proceed from me.

all

bodies of

my

is

about to be, or

is

the Universal Spirit of

and

soul

the all-moving

parts,

its

where unaffected, even so the omnipotent

body unaffected.

As

spirit.

places
to

enter-

whence we
within

my

Brodera or Ba-

was gratifying to observe

and commerce of the com-

were improved by the security, protection, and

encouragement of the English government; the standard of liberty

had then been flying three years on the Gale of Diamonds at

Dhuboy; when

that noble flag

was

first

displayed, the surround-

ing country exhibited a scene of poverty, wretchedness, and despair;

in

villages

destroyed

and burnt by contending armies;

26a
cattle killed or driven

away; peasants emigrated, or compelled

to

join the plundering hosts like beasts of burden.

This dreadful

system had been so frequently repeated, that when

of the

Dhuboy purgunnas, no language can

rable state; and a tew months afterwards,

took charge

describe their deplo-

when surrounded by

the Mahratta army, I have from the ramparts beheld upwards

The

of twenty villages in flames at the same time.

Europe, when princess Charlotte of Mecklenburgh

tically described a similar scene, in

letter to

first

female in

Strelitz,

pathe-

Frederick the Great,

kins of Prussia, written when that amiable princess was not sixteen years of age.

and with a

set

It

ought

to

be transcribed

in letters

of gold,

of Callot's miseries of war, occupy a conspicuous

place in the cabinet of every sovereign and prime minister in the

civilized world

"

am

at a loss

whether

I shall congratulate or

condole

with your majesty, on your late victory, since the same success that

has covered you with laurels, has overspread the country of Meck-

lenburgh with desolation.

ing

my

know,

Sire, that

it

seems unbecom-

sex, in this age of vicious refinement, to feel for one's

country, to lament the horrors of war, or wish for the return of

peace.

know you may

think

it

more properly

study the arts of pleasing, or to turn

more domestic nature:

me,

cannot

people.

It

resist

but,

my

my

province to

thoughts to subjects of a

however unbecoming

it

may be

the desire of interceding for this

was but a very few years ago that

in

unhappy

this territory

wore

the most pleasing appearance; the country was cultivated, the

peasant looked cheerful, and the towns abounded with riches and
festivity.

What an

alteration at present

from such a charming

264
scene

am

not expert at description, nor can

But

horrors to the picture.

would weep
country,
objects

at

my

now

The whole

before me.

frightful waste, presenting

and despair.

pity,

to excite terror,

husbandman and

one

lies

fancy add any

even conquerors themselves

the hideous prospect

dear country,

bandman and

surely

my

The

only

business of the

the shepherd are quite discontinued; the hus-

become

the shepherd are

help to ravage the

themselves, and

soldiers

The towns

they formerly occupied.

soil

only inhabited by old men, women, and children

and there a warrior, by wounds or

service, left at his

door;

his

little

are

perhaps here

of limbs, rendered unfit for

loss

children

hang round him, ask

an history of every wound, and grow themselves soldiers before

they find strength for the

not

feel the

advance

or

even those

whom we
From your
Sire,

field.

But

this

were nothing, did we

alternate insolence of either army, as

retreat.

who

call

It

is

it

happens

to

impossible to express the confusion

themselves friends create; even those from

might expect

justice, therefore,

even children and

new

redress, oppress us with

it is

that

women may

stoops to the meanest petition,

we hope

calamities.

for relief;

to

you,

complain, whose humanity

and whose power

is

capable of re-

pressing the greatest injustice."

Considering the incursions of the Gracias into

and how much they had

in

a flourishing condition.

lately suffered

my

purgunnas,

by war, they were then

Several occurrences in this journey,

noticed by the collector-general, and the other collectors, tended

to

improve the statement we had before transmitted to the Bom-

bay government, respecting the landed-property, cultivation,and

265
revenue of the English

districts

They were com-

Guzerat.

in

mitted to writing for that purpose, the unexpected cession ot

Baroche and

all

its

dependencies to Mhadajee Scindia, and the

But

Mahrattas, frustrated our plan.

and other considerable

districts

form a part of the British empire,

Guzerat, once more happily

in
I

is

work

lately published,

a brief recapitu-

shall insert

lation of the present state of landed

excellent

Baroche purgunna,

as the

property in India, from an

which

states that " the

country

divided into large estates; some of them equal in extent to the

county of York.
ment, which

lets

All landed

property belongs

to

govern-

the district to a great renter, or zemindar.

tenant divides his estate into shares, which again are

renters,

the

This

let to inferior

through several gradations under different names; so that

before the land

given to the peasant

is

hands: some smalls pots are possessed

in

it

goes through several

perpetuity by persons hold-

ing a tenure something analogous to our perpetual fee-farm rents

in

Europe.

Thus we

which answers
first

see that in Asia there

to our landed

interest.

hold one district and then another,

traders in produce,

and usurers

is

no

class

The zemindars,

may

of

men

as they

be rather considered as

to the cultivator,

more properly deemed a part of the monied

and thus

may

be

interest; of course

they have no local attachment, nor any regard for the peasantry.
This system

may

well accord Avith the despotic governments of

Asia, but cannot be at

power established

in a

all

necessary to the support of an European

country whose genius dictates milder in-

stitutions.

" If these immense tracts were divided into smaller estates,

forming a gradation

VOL.

III.

down

the peasant,

to
2

who

possesses a few

$66
would be a greater security of property,

acres of land, the result

and superior encouragement

and the clearing immense

to

industry; an increase of people,

which now cover

tracts of waste land,

the half-desolated country of Bengal.

" As our European system of landed tenure

and inasmuch

Asia,

the people, so

venue

in

it

as

would be opposite

to the principle of public re-

India, where the revenue

once mankind had

felt

to their interest that

When

the rent of land.

is

the good effects of this

it

should be durable

policy,

would be

it

hence would

it

would make them independent enough

to raise the

hand of

rebellion against us,

would

of the temper and genius of the people.

that the servants of the

the whole

Company would

community by balancing

against each other.

The

It

not

to

easy,

and create a

would also imply

know how

system

the different orders of society

it

is

on the

fidelity

in

tive

many

the

motive of

accumu-

interest,

in

respects the

of personal interest

It

must

the defence of a

prosperity and happiness depended.

his

that

of the subject.

Great Britain owes

midst of the revolutions which have convulsed

is

govern

to

increase of confidence towards the govern-

fresh tie

government on which
this

ignorance

and the establishment of a funded property more

animate him by every

To

To

enable them

testify

ment which such a measure would cause, must render

lation of wealth

arise

dread of again being under the dominion of a native power.

say that

in

highly favourable to the prosperity of

is

it

unknown

is

same under every

is

certainly

the

its

all

stability in the

Europe.

climate,
surest

Man

and the mo-

pledge of his

fidelity.

" In a country where the great body of the people are poor

267
husbandmen and
landed

interest,

artificers,

rich

have no fixed or

support can be expected from them; parti-

little

when they

cularly

and where the

are under the dominion of strangers, in

whose

Thus we

preservation

they can have no personal iuterest.

that

our power to prolong the duration of our Indian em-

it

is

in

pire to a very distant period, if

to see things as they really are,

on them; and at
people

and acquire

when our existence

last

shall be traced

attribute to

we have but wisdom and

as a great

distinct ideas

and powerful

wrought a change highly im-

us the glory of having

government,

firmness

only in the page of history, posterity will

portant to the prosperity of mankind, and

civil

and

clear

see

lo

the foundation of

a region where degrading despotism had

in

oppressed the natives, and arrested

all

improvement

in society/'

Leckie.

From Dhuboy we proceeded

to

to

Brodera, a city twenty miles

About mid-way we

the north-west.

crossed the river Dahder,

then almost dry; but in the rainy season

The country was

hills

nor uplands,

to near the
right of this
rears

its

scape;

and well

fertile

to

it

is

deep and rapid.

cultivated, but presented neither

form the variety we had been accustomed

Nerbudda.

There

is

indeed one exception on the

extensive plain where the mountain of

Powaghur

majestic head, and gives an unusual grandeur to the landit

stands entirely unconnected, with a steep, bold,

rocky ascent on

all

This extraordinary mountain appears

sides.

considerably higher than the Table-land at the

Hope; but resembles

it

and

in

other respects.

On

Cape of Good
the

summit

is

strong fortress, belonging to Mhadajee Scindia, a Mahratta chieftain, difficult

of access, and

deemed impregnable.

268
BroderaJ the capital of the Guicawar domain
situated in the latitude of 22 15' 30" north,

tude.

It

Guzerat,

in

and 73

11' cast longi-

then belonged to Futty Sihng, head of the Guicawars,

but had been formerly in the possession of the Moguls, to

it is

is

indebted for

taste nor

all

its

grandeur; the Mahratlas having neither

The

improvement.

desire of

whom

fortifications,

most

like

others in this part of India, consist of slight walls, with towers at

irregular distances,

and several double

The town

gates.

sected by two spacious streets, dividing

it

is

inter-

into four equal parts;

meeting in the centre at a market place, containing a square

pavilion, with three bold arches

on each

adorned, with seats and fountains.

This

is

is

side,

and a

roof,

flat

a Mogul building, as

every thing else that has the smallest claim to grandeur or ele-

gance.

more

The Mahratta

structures are

mean and

and proportion

decoration.

Many

in architecture,

and

the centre

in the

and elegance

in

the interior

have a favourite upper chamber, with

cieling covered with mirrors of every size

is

want of

Indian princes, Hindoos and Mahomedans,

as also the wealthy nobles

walls

none

then lately finished by Futty Sihng;

so than the durbar,

which resembles most modern Hindoo palaces,

taste

shabby,

sofa, or

and shape;

in

a swinging bed, suspended from the roof,

adorned with wreathes of mogrees, and cooled with rose-water.

Here the voluptuous Indian

his time with a favourite

retires to

smoke

his

from the haram.

sometimes decorated with indelicate paintings,

hookah, or waste
This apartment

in a

wretched

suited to their depraved appetites: the orientals in high

generally

men

of debauched morals and vitiated taste,

no idea of the pure and tender passion of love

is

style,

life

are

who have

269
" Nought
" Those
" From
" And

do they

know of those

acts,

thousand decencies, that daily flow

female words and actions

mixt with love,

sweet compliance."

In eastern harams the heart has

devoid

Asiatic love,

sweet graceful

little

of sentiment,

share in the tender passion.

means only

sensuality;

From

elegant refinements and chaste endearments are unknown.

the confined education

women have no

the

and

clothes,

retired habits of female life in India,

idea of intellectual enjoyment; their ordinary

pursuits are trifling, their

fine

its

amusements

childish.

To have

and abundance of ornaments, seem

to

children,

be the grand

objects of their wishes.

The Hindoo women

are fond of frequenting their temples,

and performing the enjoined

Mahomedan

sacrifices: the

seldom attend public worship;

this

by no means implies that

they do not pray at home: nor does the Koran, as

inculcate the doctrine that
as alleged,

women have no

deem them incapable of enjoying a

title

to

many
that

many

imagine,

souls; neither does

voluptuous paradise of the Arabian prophet.

there are

females

it,

situation in the

On

the contrary,

passages in the Koran, which give them an equal

happiness,

as

the

other sex

these

are

explicit.

" Whosoever doeth good, whether he be male or female, and

M a true believer, shall be admitted into Paradise.

On

is

a certain

" day, thou shalt see the true believers, of both sexes; their light
"shall run before them, and on their right hands; and

" be said unto them, good tidings unto you

this

it

shall

day; gardens

" through which rivers flow, ye shall remain therein for ever."

The remains of Mahomedan mosques and splendid tombs,

270
embosomed

the Brodera groves,

in

scenery near

the capital.

leums

memory

to

the

add a sombre beauty

They contain many superb

to the

mauso-

of wealthy Moguls, and humbler tombs,

or graves of turf, for the inferior classes.

In these cemeteries

are displayed the amiable propensities of the female character:

to these consecrated

spots

the

Mahomedan matrons

repair,

at

stated anniversaries " with fairest flowers to sweeten the sad grave."

The grand tombs

meanest heap of turf has

little

splendidly

often

are

its

visitors to

illuminated;

but the

chant a requiem, light a

lamp, suspend a garland, or strew a rose, as an affectionate

tribute to departed love, or separated friendship.

The

funeral ceremonies of the

Mahomedans

in Guzerat,

and

other parts of India, resemble those in Turkey, Persia, and Arabia.

Widows and matrons, like the

weep and wail, and beat upon

ancient Prajic\r,

arc

their breast with

hired

to

loud lamen-

tations.

" Smiting upon

his breast,

he began to chide

his heart."

This was practised, not only amongst the Greeks, but adopted

by the Jews and many other nations.

tation,

The howling and lamen-

on such occasions, by the vociferous females

in the

suburbs

of Baroche, frequently reached to Vezelpoor, and disturbed the

tranquillity of our retreat.

It

is

to these noisy exclamations, rather

than to the dignified and affecting effusions of silent sorrow, to

which Lucan

alludes.

'twas thus she spoke

" Effusas

"

" With hair dishevelled, and smitten breast,

her grief."
laniata

Verberibus

comas, concussaque pectus

crebris.'

sic

moesta profatur."

271

Many Mahomedans

reside in the smaller towns

of Guzerat: they engage but

villages

in agriculture or manufactures,

little

leaving the operations of the loom, and the

the

and

more patient and laborious Hindoos

of husbandry to

toil

commerce and war

form the principal pursuits of the Mussulmans.

In the environs of Erodera are some very expensive bowrees,
with grand flights of steps descending

or wells,

through rows of stone

and

pillars

pilasters;

the water,

to

these noble reservoirs

are generally charitable donations from the rich

and

Hindoos and Mahomedans.

Brodera wells

The

largest of the

great, both
is

a magnificent work, with the following inscription over the portal,

in the Persian character; of

which

insert the

translation, as

specimen of such dedications.

NAME OF AtLA
MERCY AND BENEFICENCE.'

IK THE

THE GOD OF

GOD

IS

ONE

AND THE GOD WHO SENT MAHOMET INTO THE WORLD.

Khan Ben Vazalmool,

Jaffier

successful,

and mighty

mand; he was an
nified,

By

his favour,

of Brodera;

where,

great riches, and

ficence.

By

high

in

his master,

Soliman

his chief minister

by

this

rank above

the

all officers,

blessing
in

in the

com-

and digtitles.

was appointed governor

of Alia,

he accumulated

works of charily and bene-

work of beauty,

strength,

was, by the Divine permission, completed on the

month Razeb,

his

with the most honourable

employed them

him,

Brodera was under

in battle.

officer

by the king

viceroy of Guzerat, was great,

807lh year of the Hejira.

and admiration,
first

day of the

272
The

Mesopotamia,

it

draw water; from whence,

to the well to

her pitcher, she

came up,

the well

in

mentioned that Rebecca went

particularly

is

were truly grand;

at Brodera,

well

Eliezer and Rebecca, at

meeting between

in the

down

Soli man's

steps to

possibly

having

after

by one of these

flights

Perhaps also the ear-ring was the same as that which

on the nose by the Hindoo women;

is

filled

of steps.

now worn

is

expressly said in

mentioning the ornaments and jewels, provided

for the occasion,

that

put

Eliezer

it

(singular)

ear-ring

the

for

upon

the

damsel's

face.

The water of Soliman's

is

much sought

to

drink carried

vessels, called

reckoned extremely pure, and

the oriental princes and great

men

have the water which they are accustomed

pacauleys.

This

a journey

who

especially to those

any other liquor.

is

with them, either in earthen jars, or leather

variety of water on

Cachemire.

When

after.

travel, they generally

well

is
is

a wholesome custom, as the

the cause of

neither mingle

Aurungzebe carried

The opulent Hindoo

it

it

many

disorders,

with wine, nor drink

with him from Delhi to

travels with

the water of the

Ganges; the ancient kings of Parthia were accompanied by the

water of the Choaspes.
tine

army, longed

to taste of the water

his native place: three

Philistine host,

David, when surrounded by the

from the well at Bethlehem,

mighty men of valour brake through the

and brought him the water.

Near Brodera

is

a stone bridge over the river Biswamintree,

consisting of two ranges of arches, over each

mention

this

Philis-

other.

construction as being curious, or elegant in

tecture, but as the only bridge I ever

saw

in India.

do not

its

archi-

In Guzerat

2.

5a

si

as

273
the rivers are generally crossed in ferry- boats, or the traveller continues his journey along the

when

the rainy season,

amazing

velocity, I

platform, fixed on

This

banks

to the nearest ford.

the rivers swell suddenly,

have been obliged

empty earthen

cross

to

During

and run with

them on a

light

dragged over by ropes.

pots,

sometimes a dangerous experiment, especially when any of

is

the pots break.

Brodera
provisions

a whole

is

abundantly and cheaply supplied with excellent

with mutton, beef, and kid, at a penny per pound

lamb

fat

or kid for fifteen pence

much, except near

the English settlement

hares, partridges, quails,

these

poultry

is

or

not bred

inGuzerat; but deer,

and water-fowl, are extremely cheap and

Compared with

plentiful.

Bombay,

the price of provisions at

were uncommonly low, and yet they were extravagant

to

the cost of similar articles in the northern parts of the Bengal provinces,

and some

marched

in

districts

through which General Goddard's army

The

their route to Surat.

officers

commanding

the

Benoal battalions of sepoys, then stationed at Brodera, informed

me

they had in those countries purchased a fine ox for three ru-

pees

six

sheep, or as

dozen of fowls

at the

many

fat

lambs, for one rupee

same price; wild hogs,

deer,

and

and hares were

extremely abundant; flamingos, wild ducks, and feathered

still

more

so.

five

game

In plentiful seasons every kind of Indian grain was

procurable by the poorest peasants

lliey

could buy upwards of

three hundred pounds weight of rice for a rupee; juarree, bahjeree,

and

inferior grain proportionally cheaper.

In such a country none can complain of poverty; and throughout the province of Guzerat the general wants are few, compared
VOL. III.

274
with those of the natives in colder climates, particularly in houses,

Give a poor Hindoo

and raiment.

fuel,

bubble, or smoking machine

beverage and ablutions

and a

a shady

cocoa-nut hubble-

his

tree,

near a tank for his

village bazar to

purchase a

little

and tobacco, and he performs a long journey perfectly con-

rice

Poor indeed must be the spot which cannot supply him

tented.

with those necessaries

course of

my

never met with any so desolate

For

travels.

pathless plains,

common

in

Hindostan are no ruthless deserts or

in Persia

and Arabia; those

which Buffon so admirably describes

in

a few words

un pays sans verdure, et sans eau; un

figure

loujours sec, des plaines sablaneuse, des

arides, sur les quelles

voir s'arreter sur

l'ceil

the

in

arid

tracts

" Qu'on se

soleil brulant,

un

eiel

montagnes encore plus

se tent, et le regard se perd, sans

pou-

aucun objet vivant."

If I were to point out the most beautiful part of India I ever

should

upon the province of Guzerat.

saw,

cide

upon the most

fix

If I were to de-

delightful part of that province, I should with-

out hesitation prefer the purgunnas of Brodera and Neriad.

crops in the other districts

may be

The

equal in variety and abun-

dance, but the number of trees which adorn the roads, the richness

of the

mango

topes round the villages,

dure of the tamarind

beauty, such indeed as
other part of the globe.
if I

may

trees,
I

clothe the country with

uncommon

never saw to so great an extent

There

is,

ver-

in

any

besides, a voluptuous stillness,

use the expression, in an Indian landscape, a serenity in

the atmosphere,

and a quietness

in the road during a

walk, or evening ride in the cool season, not generally

Europe.

and

the size

am

morning

known

in

almost tempted to say, that the lotos-covered lakes,

//,,/,

/;/,

,y

///

'/,'/,//,
>///

275
and

overshadowing banian-trees, have a more cheerful and

their

appearance than

brilliant

variety of the red, white,

moved by

breeze, or

with the

rails

ful situations

and blue

lotos, gently agitated

by the

the spotted halcyon alighting on the stalks,

and water-hens

Our

altogether lovely.

the surrounding districts: the sweet

in

tents

lightly

running over the

foliage, are

were pitched in one of these delight-

on the margin of a

lake, about a mile from the walls

of Brodera.
I

do not know whether the seed of the

any other use

in India,

nor can

avfovw etiap

Homer

he thinks

speaks of

and adds, that there

tus affirms

I ascertain

is

it

as bread

eaten, or put to

the variety of these

an herb,

as

an Egyptian

lotos,

many
he

for

this I

it

kinds

calls

it;

which Herodo-

grows abundantly in the Nile, resembling a

Egyptians take out the pulp or seed, dry

it

is

Eustathius says there are

plants in different parts.

of lotos

lotos

in the sun,

lily

the

and bake

think cannot be any of the class in Iiindostan.

Athenseus, in his Deipnosophist, quotes a description of the

Ly-

bian lotos, from Polybius, which was used as food by the natives

but that also

nymphea

differs

very

of Hindostan.

much from

and

plates at their

lily

of the Nile, or the

Did any of the harmless Hindoos eat

the seed or fruit of this plant,

dishes

the

own

as

they convert

its

vegetable meals, they would exactly

answer Homer's description of the innocent lotophagi.

" At

length

" The

"

we

touch'd, by storms and tempests tost,

land of Lotos, and the floweiy coast

We climb'd the beach,

" Then
" The

and springs of water found,

spread our frugal banquet on the ground

people there are kind to foreign guest,

" They

leaves into

eat, they drink,

and nature gives the

feast

<27()

The

'

" Lotos

all

their food produce,

divine nectareons juice

call'd lotophagi)

which whoso

articles

tastes,

Odyssey

might be cultivated

West India

profit,

to

the

if

trade to

Eng-

sugar-cane, tobacco, and indigo; the luxuri-

these are the

ance of these productions, when planted

cates the source of wealth that

supply of corn,

congenial

in a

would accrue

larger scale, without encroaching

for the necessary

Guzerat

in

which would yield an ample

greater extent,

speculation did not interfere with the

land

Insatiate riots in the sweet repasts."

Three valuable

much

name;

the

" (Thence

"

around them

trees

to the cultivator

on the quota of land

oil,

soil, indi-

on a

set apart

and pulse of various kinds.

Mulberries of three different sorts flourish

in the

Guzerat gardens

the small red, the white, and a long curling kind, hanging in ap-

pearance

like so

many

caterpillars.

Each of

these kinds grow from

cuttings without the smallest trouble; they only require to

stuck

in the

afterwards.

ground

Thus

ous purgunnas.

in

the rainy season,

silk in

poppies would grow

the fatal purpose to which

and China.
tricts,

Hemp

and cotton

The

are seldom

all live

flax

and

in

in

vari-

not be so productive in
;

nor

is

it

all

desirable, from

converted in most parts of India

would

flourish

in

the northern dis-

Brodera purgunna, like those of the adjacent

more than two miles from each

either in

many

other.

The

towns or villages; a single farm-house, or

even a separate cottage,

beasts,

it is

chance

a staple commodity of Guzerat.

villages in the

districts,

natives

is

and

their

any quantity might be produced

Opium perhaps would

places where the

and lake

be

is

not often seen

tracts of wilder

men,

is

incursions of wild

a sufficient reason

for:

277
near each other, within the village fence of

their dwelling

walls

Bamboos, planted

and milk-bush hedges.

form a very strong boundary.

mud

for that purpose,

Cattle are never left out at night

in the village pastures.

It

was dreadful

to think that the

inhabitants of this earthly

Compared

paradise groaned under the most oppressive despotism.

Brodera chieftain, a Mogul prince

with the government of the

appears a noble character

but even the latter loses

contrasted with ihe ancient Hindoo rajahs.

much when

Surrounded

they

as

were by wealth and splendor, there was something patriarchal

their style of administration, which,

vaded the most distant provinces.

tal history carries

like the golden

throne,

and a

in

by delegated authority, perretrospective view of orien-

us to a time of great simplicity

to

something

age of the poets, when virtuous princes sat on the

religion unadulterated

Of such

vailed throughout the empire.

and such a sovereign,

Lord was the land,

it

may

by modern brahminism, prea climate, such a country,

be truly said, that " blessed of the

for the precious things of heaven, the precious

thincs of the earth, and for the precious fruits brought forth by the

sun

for the chief things of the mountains,

of the hills; for blessings which

upon the

grass! that he

distil as

and the precious things

the dew, and as showers

might eat the increase of

his fields

of kine, milk of sheep, and kidneys of the wheat

suck honey out of the rock, and

oil

Futty Sihng completely reversed

ancient Hindoo rajahs.

He

out of the
this

flinty

butter

that he might

rock!"

benevolent portrait of the

thought himself under a necessity of

paying attention to the English chief of Baroche, with several

members of his

council, and suitable attendants, travelling through

278

No

his districts.

sooner were our tents pitched near the walls of

Brodera than he sent

sage,

his

chopdars, or heralds, with a friendly mes-

accompanied with a present of

questing the honour of a

invitation the

visit

fruit

We

at the durbar.

same evening, and were amused

re-

accepted his

as usual with

danc-

music, betel, and sherbet, and received the customary

ing-girls,

presents, but all in a very unprincely style

sian and

Hindoo

and sweetmeats, and

Mogul entertainments

princes,

The

at Cainbay.

when contrasted with

mans, are mean and sordid

compared with

the Per-

generality of

the highest class of Mussul-

avarice and ambition unite in both

but the courteous behaviour and dignified politeness of the Mogul

are far

more engaging than the unpolished manners, mingled with

the disagreeable pride of the Mahratta sirdar.

Futty Sihng was a remarkable instance of the blended characteristics

of pride, avarice, and a sordid disposition.

he had

many names and

titles;

the principal were Futty Sihng

Row, Guicawar, Shamsheer Bahadur.

family, that of Cow-keeper was

As a prince

As head of the Guicawar

most pre-eminent: the

last

lation alludes to the prowess of a military chieftain.

Futteh Sihng, implies the " Horn of Victory."

ways been a
David says
himself, "

figurative expression in Asia for

to his enemies, " Lift not

My

Futty, or

The horn has

power and

dignity.

up your horn on high"

it

being a most offensive weapon

In Abyssinia the horn, according to Bruce,

is

in

in the

of
that

worn as an

ornament by the nobles and great men, and bound upon the
head

al-

horn shalt thou exalt like the horn of an unicorn;"

or rather the rhinoceros,

animal.

appel-

fore-

days of victory, preferment, and rejoicing; on which

occasions they are anointed with new, or sweet

oil

a circum-

279
stance which David expressly unites with that of lifting up, or
erectino; the

to the princely

without

it,

How

horn.

far this visible

horn might have added

appearance of Futty Sihng

cannot determine

he certainly had no dignity, being short of stature, of a

dark complexion, and mean appearance.

He was

then forty years

of age, had been married to several wives, but had only one child,
betrothed a

Deccan.
letter

time before to a young

little

Futty Sihng sent a chopdar to

man

me

at

of family in the

Dhuboy, with a

of invitation to the wedding, then celebrating at Brodera at

a great expense, and of long continuance.

from oriental princes, was written on

The

letter,

as usual

silver paper, flowered

with

gold, with an additional sprinkling of saffron, enclosed under a

The

cover of gold brocade.

letter

was accompanied by a bag of

filled

with sweet-scented seeds, as a

crimson and gold keem-caub,

mark of favour and good omen.

For on these occasions the brah-

minical astrologers and soothsayers are always particularly consulted.

For several reasons

to his daughter's

declined accepting Futty Sihng's invitation

wedding, especially on account of the presents to

be given and received on the occasion; for

visits

these oriental

are far from being always disinterested, or outward tokens of

friendship, especially at a

not superior value,

to

gifts at

is

Mahratta durbar; a return of equal,

generally expected. In a late British embassy

Mahi Rajah Doulut Rao

Scindia, one of the great Mahratta

princes, after a polite reception

public

visit,

if

and the etiquette usual

at a first

the khiluts, or presents, were brought in, consisting of

eight trays for the ambassador, filled with shawls, muslins, tur-

bans, and brocades

and one

for

each of the gentlemen who ac-

280
companied him,

which were a pair of shawls, a piece of brocade,

in

The Mah Rajah then

a piece of muslin, a turban, &c.

with his

own hands a

ambassador's hat

sirpech, or

first

offered the jewel to be touched

by the

Ottar of roses, spices and betel were then dis-

sovereign's hand.

by One of

ornament of emeralds upon the

one of the sirdars did the same by the other

gentlemen, after having

tributed in the

fastened

same manner by

his chiefs to the rest

his

highness to the ambassador, and

When

of the parly.

they took leave,

a horse and an elephant, neither of them of much value, were waiting

The

without for the ambassador's acceptance.

visit

was not

re-

turned until ten days afterwards, in consequence of some disputes

having arisen respecting the number of presents to be given to the

Mah

Rajah and

his suite.

One hundred and fifty were

manded, which were afterwards reduced

first

sixty-seven.

to

de-

This

mean and mer-

species of arithmetic was so well understood at the

cenary court of the Brodera chieftain, that

at

pretended business,

and absented myself from the nuptials, where

understood every

thing was conducted with an ostentatious parsimony peculiar to

a

Mahratta durbar

ing fortunes admit,

generosity,

Mogul

for the
still

princes, as far as their declin-

preserve a degree of splendor, taste, and

unknown among modern Hindoo

sovereigns, of

whom

Futty Sihng was perhaps one of the meanest.

The wedding of Vazeer

nabob of Oude, celebrated

Ally, eldest son of Asuf-ud-DowIah,

most magnificent

in

modern

at

Lucknow

times.

and

far

exceeds any

tiling I

was one of the

Jts description

ness, forms a splendid contrast to the

dera,

in 1795,

by an eye-wit-

shabby proceedings at Bro-

had an opportunity of seeing

amongst the priucos of'Guzeral, or during

my

residence in India.

281
"All the omrahs and great men of the country were invited
festivity,

and a party of English

ladies

to this

and gentlemen went

to the

celebration on elephants caparisoned.

The nabob had

his

tents

pitched on the plains, near the city of

Lucknow; among

the

num-

ber were two remarkably large,

of strong cotton cloth, lined

with the finest English

broad-cloth,

colours, with cords of silk

above

lacs of rupees, or

and cotton.

feet high

cut in stripes

These two

thousand pounds

fifty

each an hundred and twenty

about sixty

made

of different

tents cost five

sterling;

feet long, sixty broad,

they were

and the poles

the walls of the tents were ten feet high;

part of them were cut into lattice- work for the

women

of the na-

bob's seraglio, and those of the principal nobility, to see through.

In front of the tent prepared for our reception was a large shu-

meeana, or awning, of

fine

English broad-cloth, supported on sixty

this

awning was about an hundred

We

were received with great politeness

by the nabob, who conducted

us to one of the largest tents des-

poles covered with silver

long and as

tined for the

many

broad.

men, where we

was covered with jewels,

sterling.

From

thence

sat for

to the

about an hour.

amount

we removed

feet

His highness

at least of two millions

to the

shumeeana, which was

illuminated by two hundred elegant girandoles from Europe, as

many
beaux
sight.

glass shades with

the glare

and

When seated

wax

candles, and

reflection

under

this

dancing-girls, richly dressed,

ther lascivious dances

VOL.

III.

hundred flam-

was dazzling, and offensive

to the

extensive canopy, above a hundred

went through

their elegant, but ra-

and motions, and sung some

country, chiefly Persic and Hindoo- Persic.

the bridegroom

several

soft airs

About seven

Vazeer Ally, the young nabob, made

2

his

of the

o'clock,

appear-

282
ance, so absurdly loaded with jewels

he could scarcely stagger

The bridegroom was about

under ihe precious weight.

years of age, the bride ten

llial

thirteen

they were both of a dark complexion,

and not handsome.

"From

the

shumeeana we proceeded on elephants

and beautiful garden, about a mile

sive

was grand beyond conception

it

to

The

distant.

an exten-

procession

consisted of above twelve hun-

dred elephants, richly caparisoned, drawn up in a regular line like

a regiment of

soldiers.

had houdas, or

castles,

About a hundred elephants

covered with

silver

in the

in

the centre

midst of these

appeared the nabob, mounted on an uncommonly large elephant,

within a houdah covered with gold, richly set with precious stones.

The elephant was caparisoned

with cloth of gold.

hand was Mr. George Johnstone, the

of

Lucknow

on

his left the

On

his

right

British resident at the court

young bridegroom

the English gen-

tlemen and ladies and the native nobility were intermixed on the

and

right

left.

On

garden, were raised

both sides of the road, from the tents to the

artificial

scenery of bamboo-work, very high,

representing bastions, arches, minarets, and towers, covered with

lights in glass

lamps, which

made

a grand display.

On

each side

of the procession, in front of the line of elephants, were dancinggirls

superbly dressed, (on platforms supported and carried by

bearers)

who danced

as

we went

along.

These platforms consisted

of a hundred on each side of the procession,

and

silver

cloths, with

two

girls

covered with

all

and two musicians

at

o-old

each plat-

form.

" The ground from the tents to the garden, forming the road

on which we moved, was

inlaid with fire-works

at every step

of

283
the elephants the earth burst before us,
stars in the

vidence

many hundred wooden

besides innumerable rockets, and

and shot

forth a

thousand

fiery serpents;

winding through the atmosphere, illuminated the sky, and,

aided by the light of the

bamboo

scenery, turned a dark night into

The procession moved on very

a bright day.

for the fire-works

this

artificial

heavens, to emulate those created by the hand of Pro-

shells that burst in the air,

these,

and threw up

inlaid in the

ground

to

go

slowly, to give time

The whole of

off".

grand scene was further lighted by above three thousand flam-

beaux, carried by

we moved on
a mile

men

in stately

pomp

we took two hours

off,

In

hired for the occasion.

to the garden,

manner

which, though only

When we

to reach.

this

arrived at the

garden gate we descended from the elephants and entered the

garden, illuminated by innumerable transparent paper lamps, or
lanterns, of various colours,

suspended

to the branches of the trees.

In the centre of the garden was a large

edifice, to

which we

as-

cended, and were introduced into a grand saloon, adorned with

girandoles and pendant lustres of English manufacture, lighted

with

wax

lation of

candles.

Here

European and

sweetmeats

at the

their sprightly airs,

Ave

had an elegant and sumptuous

Indian dishes, with wines,

fruits,

col-

and

same time above a hundred dancing-girls sung

and performed

their native dances.

" Thus passed the time until dawn, when we

all

returned to

our respective homes, delighted and wonder-struck with

this

en-

chanting scene, which surpassed in splendor every entertainment

of the kind beheld in this country.
served, with a

little

The

affable

nabob

rightly ob-

Asiatic vanity, that such a spectacle was never

before seen in India, and never would be seen again.

The whole

284
expense of

this

marriage

cessive nights in the

thousand pounds

feast,

which was repeated

same manner,

fur three suc-

upwards of three hundred

cost

sterling."

" Asuf-ud-Dowlah, since deceased, was the son of the famous,

or rather infamous Shujah-ud-Dowlah,

nabob of Oude, who was

conquered by the arms of the British East India company,

He

ed by the invincible Clive.

died in 1775, leaving the character

of a bold, enterprising, and rapacious prince.

Dowlah, succeeded
India company.

to

His son, Asuf-ud-

the government by the assistance of the East

Mild

duct, he possessed

direct-

in

manners, polite and affable

no great mental powers

in his

his heart

con-

was good,

considering his education, which instilled the most despotic ideas.

He

was fond of lavishing

elephants,

his treasures

European guns,

lustres,

on gardens, palaces, horses,

and

mirrors.

He expended

every year about two hundred thousand pounds in English manufactures.

This nabob had

twenty palaces,

more than an hundred gardens,

twelve hundred elephants, three thousand fine

saddle horses, fifteen hundred double-barrel guns, seventeen hun-

dred superb lustres, thirty thousand shades of various form and

colour

some of

several

hundred large mirrors, girandoles, and clocks

the latter were very curious, richly set with jewels, having

figures in continual

movement, and playing tunes every hour; two

of these clocks cost him thirty thousand pounds.

Without

or judgment, be Avas extremely solicitous to possess

taste

that was

all

elegant and rare; he had instruments and machines of every art

and science, but he knew none

lously displayed, that a

and

his

museum was

so ridicu-

wooden cuckoo clock was placed

a superb time-piece which cost the price of a diadem

close to

and a vahu

285
able landscape of Claude Lorraine suspended near a board painted

He sometimes gave

with ducks and drakes.

a dinner to ten or

twelve persons sitting at their ease in a carriage drawn by ele-

His haram contained above

phants.

immured

beauties of India,
to leave, except

on their

hundred of the greatest

five

high walls which they were never

in

He had

biers.

an immense number of

domestic servants, and a very large army, besides being fully protected from hostile invasion
for

which he paid

jewels

to

forces,

hundred thousand pounds per annum.

five

amounted

by the company's subsidiary

about eight millions

sterling.

His

saw him

in

the midst of this precious treasure, handling them as a child does

L. F. Smith.

his toys."

do not

letters to

dom

insert

Futty Sihng's nuptial invitation, nor any of

me during my

residence at

Dhuboy

interesting,

and the

style

Mirza Zuminum,

vizier at

Cambay, has

far

illustration of

celebrated
it,

am

modern

the

oriental

indebted

to

epistles.

same character

letter

from

Mabomedan and Hinbe a sufficient

will

For the

first,

from the

accompanying

the anecdote

James Sibbald, formerly ambassador

Sir

nabob

afforded one specimen of

characters,

Hyder Ally Khaun, and

the court of that

filled

different

the contents were sel-

from elegant.

Persian writing; the two following, from a

doo sovereign, of very

for the latter, to Sir Charles

at the

his

Malet,

at

who

Mahralta durbar.

In the rainy season of 1?6S, during the war which the East
India

Company

were then carrying on against Hyder Ally, Sir

James Sibbald proceeded from

Colonel

Wood commanded

Tellicherry to Coimbatoor, where

a detachment from

the

in order to obtain information of the state of the

Madras army,

war

in that part

286
of Hyder's country, that a plan of co-operation might be adopted
with the

Bombay

on the Malabar

his possessions

season.

On

presidency, for the renewal of hostilities against

coast, at

the opening of the fair

arriving at Coimbatoor, he found

Colonel Wood's

detachment had taken possession of the greatest part of that

province

the

nabob

himself, with a large

force, being

in obstructing the operations of Colonel Smith, in

main army then

The

lore.

at Colah,

difficulty

ened destruction

to

war by avoiding any

of bringing Hyder

our

affairs

for his

to

obliged

as gained,

us

to

command

for the siege of

Banga-

of carrying on the

and by cutting

off our

abandon the advantages

by compelling a hasty

retreat

In this situation the government of

Avant of provisions.

of the

a pitched battle threat-

mode

decisive engagement,

supplies of provisions,

almost as soon

and preparing

employed

for

Madras

determined to equip Colonel Wood's army with a light train of

artillery

and a picked body of sepoys

velocity of their

in the

hope, that by the

movements they might bring Hyder

and thereby leave Colonel Smith with the main army

uninterrupted to Bangalore.
pectations of the

to action,

to

proceed

But however sanguine were the ex-

Madras government, Colonel Wood found

it

vain attempt to bring the nabob to an action, although he had

been following him

in different directions for

many

weeks, accord-

ing to the best intelligence he could obtain of his movements.

At

length Colonel

Wood, completely harassed and weary of

the pursuit, adopted a very singular expedient to effect his pur-

pose

ful for

he wrote a

letter to

Hyder

Ally, stating that

a great prince, at the head of a large army,

it

was disgrace-

to fly before

detachment of infantry and a few pieces of cannon, unsupported

287
The nabob's answer

by cavalry.

mits a very impressive

"I have

to this extraordinary letter trans-

of that great man's character.

trait

received your

" to an action with your army.

which you invite

letter, in

Give

me

same

the

sort of troops

" that you command, and your wishes shall be accomplished.

" will in time understand

my mode

of warfare.

me

You

Shall I risk

my

" cavalry, which cost a thousand rupees each horse, against your
" cannon balls which cost two pice?*

No.

" troops until their legs shall become the

"

You

shall not

have a blade of

I will

of their bodies.

size

grass, nor a

march your

drop of water.

" hear of you every time your drum beats, but you shall not
" where

"

it

am

once a month.

must be when
Every word

your army

I will give

battle,

I will

know
but

it

and not when you choose."

I please,

in this letter

proved true.

The

incessant fatigue

which Colonel Wood's detachment underwent, brought on such

complaints

number

among

the troops that he

in different garrisons of

was obliged

to leave a great

By keeping

Coimbaloor.

a piquet

of horse to watch Colonel Wood's motions, and establishing tele-

graphs on signal posts in different parts of the country, Hyder

exactly

knew

movement

every

his

army made; and, by laying

waste the country, and destroying the tanks and wells as Colonel

Wood

advanced, the

latter

was frequently obliged

To complete

want of forage and water.

threat of giving battle to the British

Hyder

surprized Colonel

an engagement,

in

Wood

which he

at

his

to retreat for

promise, and

army when

fulfil

he thought proper,

Manbagul, and brought him

lost all his artillery,

piece of copper equal to a penny.

his

to

and nothing saved

288
his little

army but

the advance of Colonel Smith

who, upon hear-

ing a heavy cannonade at day-break that morning, marched im-

mediately from Colah, and reached the spot

Hyder

back, at the

to fall

moment when

in

Lime to compel

Colonel Wood's troops

were upon the point of being entirely defeated.

The

other specimen of an oriental epistle

is

from the peshvva

of the Mahralta empire to the king of Great Britain, accompany-

some valuable

ing

presents, intrusted to the care of Sir Charles

Malet, late ambassador at that durbar, on his departure for England

in

1798.

This was accompanied by another

letter,

of the peshwa's friendship to the English East India

that to his majesty was the

first

expressive

Company

instance of the Mahralta durbar

making a declaration of attachment

to

a British sovereign.

Translation of a letter from Sonde Badjerou Ragonatli, peshwa of the

Mahratta empire,
Great Britain,

"
majesty,

may

Sf-c.

May

his

to

Majesty George

the

Third,

King of

<j-c.

the august assembly of spiritual and temporal

the congregation of glory

and royalty, long derive

splendor from the princely virtues of your majesty, pre-eminent

among the

inheritors of

mighty and

illustrious,

grandeur and magnificence, supporter of the

chosen of the tribunal of the Almighty,

elect of the judgment-seat

"

Some time ago

of

infinity

the exalted Sir Charles

Warre Malet was

appointed by the mighty chiefs of Calcutta to reside at the court

of your well-wisher, in the character of their minister; which respectable gentleman,

being endowed

with

foresight

and expe-

"

289
rience

was always employed

business,

in

and devoted

in,

lo

strengthening the mutual friendship, and increasing the cordiality

of the two states; but having, at

this season,

adopted the

lution of returning to England, he has taken leave,

towards that quarter

reso-

and proceeded

which opportunity has been embraced to

transmit, under his care, for your majesty's gracious acceptance,

sundry pieces of cloth and

articles

of jewellery, agreeable to the

accompanying catalogue, which he

senting to your majesty

will

have the honour of pre-

and we have a firm hope they

will

be

honoured with your majesty's approval.

" Your majesty, looking on your well-wisher (the peshwa) as

one of those sincerely studious of your good-will,

to

honour him with your exalted

letters,

which

will

will

be pleased

be deemed a

gracious proof of your majesty's kindness and attention.

your empire and prosperity be everlasting

The
jesty,

peshwa

presents from the Mahratta

mentioned

preceding

in the

and thirty-two diamonds,

rubies,

letter,

May

his Britannic

to

ma-

consisted of two hundred

and emeralds,

set in various orna-

ments; two strings containing an hundred and twenty beautiful

pearls;

and a large

pearl,

emeralds, called ajeega.

pendant

to

an ornament of diamonds and

These were accompanied by a complete

Indian dress of costly materials, and twenty valuable shawls.

These may be esteemed a magnificent present from a Hindoo

prince at this period.

number of
sovereign
luts,

and

VOL.

More must depend upon

jewels sent

of that
all

III.

by the durbar

at

the value than the

Poonah

to

the British

can give no estimate, but the Mahratta khi-

the presents I have heard of in

2

modern

times, dwindle

290
into insignificance

gul

when compared with

those recorded of the

emperors and sullauns of Dcccan.

Dewal Roy

to

peace-offering from

Sultaun Firozc Shall, consisted of ten lacs of pago-

sum amounting

das, a

sterling; fifty elephants,

to

near four hundred thousand

most probably

richly

thousand slaves of bolh sexes, accomplished

To

and music.

Mo-

these were

added

pearls,

emeralds, to an inestimable value.

pounds

caparisoned; two

in singing,

dancing,

diamonds, rubies, and

This magnificent present, so

greatly exceeding those usually sent from one oriental sovereign to

another, was to effect a reconciliation, and procure the sultaun's favour

after a rebellion; but there
set with jewels,

are

many

instances of dresses richly

Arabian horses shod with gold,

in caparisons

em-

bossed with rubies and emeralds, and other superb presents from
eastern sovereigns to their favourites, which realize half the fictions

performed by the obedient genii of Aladdin's wonderful lamp.

Such was the magnificence of former ages

and

it

appears as

if

the courage,

all is

now

reversed;

magnanimity and generosity which

once adorned the character of the Hindoo and Mahometan princes,

had vanished with

Asiatic

their fortunes.

and

sovereigns

their

The more

tend through
in

all

power and administer

description, are in

iniquitous
the

demands

less

Virtue finds no asylum in

sensual pleasure and oppressive tyranny ex-

the higher ranks.

society submit: the

saw of the petty

system of government, the

thought them deserving of estimation.

an Indian durbar

To

gratify the avarice of

men

to their pleasures, the inferior classes of

Duans, Pundits, and petty tyrants of every

their turn fleeced

by the ruling despot;

are gratified, he never inquires

money was accumulated.

Thus

if his

by what means

have described

it

in

the

291
Concan and Malabar, thus

found

none attempt

to

it

universal throughout Iiin-

is

great and small

is

we

all

occasions

exempt

is

entirely

the great Akber,

ous minister Abul Fazel, from general censure.

ter I

mentioned two Hindoos of

The more we

de-

are convinced that the beauti-

animating principle of patriotic virtue

must on

influenced by fear, for

sufficient reasons.

velope oriental courts, the more

it is

stem the torrent of venality and corrup-

which Montesquieu assigns

ful

the extent of

The conduct of

tion.

On

miser} under such a dreadful system of government,

painful and needless to enlarge

dostan

at every court I visited in

Mahomedan.

Guzerat, whether Mahratta or

human

it

unknown.
and

his virtu-

In a former chap-

liberal sentiments

able acquirements in literature, art, and science.

and considerThese, and a

few similar characters which occasionally occur, form a pleasing

contrast to the general picture of the higher orders in India; and
indicate, that,
to literary

among

the

Hindoos

and philosophical

especially, there are

pursuits,

and

minds open

1 trust also to the re-

ception of truth; to the balmy comforts of that religion which

alone produces true happiness in this

which

is

to

come.

other causes, which

life,

it is

acknowledged operate powerfully against

the lower classes of Hindoos

from the haughty brahmin

may

attempt has been

in

bliss eternal in that

Notwithstanding the prejudice of caste and

the general introduction of Christianity,

that a change

and

and melioration among

there are instances in every rank,

to the

poor Chandalah, which prove

be effected, and conversion take place.

made and succeeded, and

will, I

The

have no doubt,

due time be wisely directed throughout the whole empire of

British India.

292
" Britain,

On

thy voice can bid the light descend;

thee alone, the eyes of Asia bend!

High

Arbitress

Sole pledge of

to thee

and delegate of heaven

bliss,

In thy dread mantle

Or

her hopes are given,

all

her fates repose,

blight with blessings, or o'ercast with

And

Oh!

at

thy touch, or at thy bidding weep.

to thy godlike destiny arise!

Awake, and meet

Wide

Some

the purpose of the skies

waves,

as thy sceptre

What virtues

let

let

Such fame

thy bold genius tower,

stoop to vulgar lures of fame or

With

India learn

round the shrine of incense burn

nobler flight

Such power

Thy

woes

future ages shall thy mandate keep,

Smile

Nor

power ;

as gluts the tyrant's purple pride,

as reeks

around the homicide.

peaceful trophies deck thy throne, nor bare

conquering sword,

Justice ask the

till

Justice alone can consecrate

war

renown,

Her's are the brightest rays in Glory's crown

All else, nor eloquence nor song sublime

Can

screen from curse, or sanctify from crime.

Let gentler

And

arts

awake

thy behest,

science sooth the Hindoo's mournful breast.

In vain has Nature shed her

For eye or ear,

Fruits of

And

at

all

soft

bloom

gift

around,

or tuneful sound

hues on every grove display'd,

pour'd profuse the tamarind's gorgeous shade.

What joy

to

him can song

or shade afford,

Outcast so abject, by himself abhorr'd

While chain'd

to dust, half struggling, half resign'd,

Sinks to her fate the heaven-descended mind,

Disrob'd of

The

all

her lineaments sublime,

daring hope whose glance outmeasur'd time,

;;

29 9
Warm
And

passions to the voice of rapture strung,

conscious thought, that told her

At Brahma's

New

shapes of clay await

Darkling condemn'd

And swell
Be

in

th'

immortal soul

forms obscene to prowl,

the melancholy midnight howl.

thine die task, his drooping eye to cheer,

And
To

whence she sprung.

stern decree, as ages roll,

beyond

elevate his hopes

this sphere,

brighter heavens than proud

Though

Then

And

girt

shall

with Indra and

his

once the four-fold chain away

Through every limb a sudden

life shall start,

sudden pulses spring around

Then

And

all

the skies.

title to

these thy trophies,

these high

Heaven

Queen of many

shall

First

by thy guardian voice

Shall

Truth divine her

Wide and more wide

New

his heart:

the deaden'd energies shall rise,

vindicate their

Be

On

burning thrones.

he recognize the beams of day,

fling at

And

Sumeera owns,

shed indulgent smiles.

to India led,

tearless victories spread;

the heaven-born light shall stream.

realms from thee shall catch the

Unwonted warmth

isles

blissful

theme,

the soften'd savage feel,

Strange chiefs admire, and turban'd warriors kneel

The

prostrate East submit her jewell'd pride,

And

swarthy kings adore the Crucified !"

Beautiful as
lines

are taken,

is

the whole poem, from

we may indulge

C. Grant.

whence the preceding

the hope that

thing far beyond the pleasing fictions of poetry.

to calculate the effects

Asiatic researches,

Calcutta.

From

it

contains some-

It

is

impossible

which may ultimately be produced by

and the noble establishment of the college

at

the revival of science, learning, and true philo-

294
sophy on the banks of the Ganges, we may expect

to

sec the

temples of Vishnoo consecrated to the worship of Jehovah, and

brahminical groves,
frivolous

pursuits,

seminaries for astrology, geomancy, and

become the

The

liberal sentiment.

patriotic virtue

now

and manly attainments, although

virtue,

and

and glory

and

learning

climate of India does not militate against

Greece,

degree depress their energy.

rant, indolent,

of classical

seats

illiberal

now

it

may

some

in

the abode of the igno-

Turk, was once the theatre of wisdom,

Art and science, nurtured

under

in Asia, will,

the auspices of peace and liberty, resume their influence over the
fertile

Philosophy, religion, and

regions of Hindostan.

attended by liberality,

taste,

and elegance,

will revisit

virtue,

a favourite

clime; poetry, music, painting, and sculpture, encouraged by the

genius of Britain,

may

there strew the path of virtue with

many a

fragrant flower.

These when patronized by Akber, and a few other princes,

flourished sufficiently to
arts are

couraged
the

now
in

shew what may be again expected.

at the lowest

ebb

modern durbars

Mogul empire, music and

in India.

cannot say.
illuminations

a principal evening amusement.

little

time before sun-set,

How

far

music

The
is

en-

In the splendour of

seem

to

have formed

Akber, every afternoon, some

if asleep,

was awaked; and when the

sun set the attendants lighted twelve camphor candles in twelve

massive candlesticks of gold and

silver,

of various form

and

beauty; when a singer of sweet melody, taking up one of the

candlesticks, sang a variety

of delightful

airs,

and concluded

with imploring blessings on his majesty.

I

have not touched upon either Hindoo or

Mahomedan

music,

295

my own

from

having been

knowledge, as

seldom pleased

can say

willi

their

little

on the

vocal

or

subject,

instrumental

melody; nor, from those who had belter opportunities of

acquainted with
as

it

it,

did

submit

writes

a friend respecting

to

to their superior

when you mentioned

string

am

much

in

its

Yet

favour.

has been differently treated by Sir William Jones, and other

writers, I

hear

I ever

being-

particularly fond.

art in

Sanscrit,

stance of

it

as

it,

judgment.

The former

You touched an

"

thus

important

the subject of Indian music, of which

have just read a very old book on that

and hope

to

present the world with the sub-

soon as the transactions of our society can be

printed."
Sir

William Ousely, on the subject of oriental music, says

" the books which treat of

it

are

numerous and

curious.

William Jones mentions the works of Amin, a musician

the Ragarnava, and

dara, the Naraijan,

(not

to

the

Sir

Dama-

add any more

Indian names) the sea of passions, the delight of assemblies, the

doctrine of musical modes, and

To

doostani treatises.

these

many

other Sanscrit and Hin-

must be added an essay on the

science of music; the object of which

is

to teach the understand-

ing of the raugsand rauginees, and the playing

ments.

From

this

work

it is

upon musical

briefly stated, that the

instru-

Hindoos have

a gamut, consisting of seven notes, like our own; which being

repeated in three several ast'kans, or octaves, form in

twenty-one natural notes.

are expressed
ni; and,

when

gundhauv;

sa, ra,

The seven

all

a scale of

notes which form the

ga, ma, pa, da, na; or sa,

ri,

gamut

ga, ma, pa, dha,

written at length, stand thus: kau,redge; rekhub;

mad,dhum; punchum; dhazvoth; neekhaudh.

Of

these

296
seven words (the

first

excepted) the

ing music to represent the notes.

Instead of the

word

or lowest, kau,rcdge, that of the

emphatically the vote, being as

and named swara, or

others;

which
"

On

is

initial

of the

first

used: which signifies

were the foundation of the

the sound, from the important office

the subject of those ancient and extraordinary melodies,

which the Hindoos

call

raugs and rauginees, the popular traditions

numerous and romantic,

are miraculous.

the god

it

sur

are used in writ-

bears in the scale.

it

are as

initial letters

Of

as the

powers ascribed to them

the six rungs, the five

first

Mahadew, who produced them from

owe

their origin to

his five heads.

Par-

buttee, his wife, constructed the sixth;

and the

were composed by Brimha.

celestial invention, these

Thus, of

melodies are of a peculiar genus

thirty rauginees

and of the three ancient genera

of the Greeks resemble most the enharmonic-, the more

modern

compositions are of that species termed diatonic."

"

considerable difficulty

found

is

in setting

to

rauos and rauginees; as our system does not supply

signs, sufficiently

and depressions of the voice

time

is

lyre, or

to

broken and

in these melodies; of

irregular, the

Whatever magic was

Timotheus

filled his

in the

softly-breathing flute, the effects said

six raugs, are

his

even more

modes of the an-

Tousine, a wonderful musician in the time of the

emperor Akber, sung one of the night raugs

powers of

which the

touch when Orpheus swept his

extraordinary than any of those ascribed to the

Mia

or

modulations frequent and very

have been produced by two of the

cients.

notes,

expressive of the almost imperceptible eleva-

tions

wild.

music the

music were such that

it

instantly

at

mid-day: the

became

night:

and

297
the darkness extended in a circle round the palace, as far as the

sound of his voice could be heard.

"

I shall

say

little

on the tradition of Naik Gopaul, another

celebrated musician in the reign of Akber,

by

who was commanded

the emperor to sing the raug dheepuck; which whoever at-

tempted

to sing should

Gopaul

flew to the river

neck

in water; where,

be destroyed by

is

Akber, determined

to

body and consumed him

river,

Naik

long;

Jumna, and plunged himself up

notwithstanding his situation in the

his

the story

to the

prove the power of

compelled the unfortunate musician to sing

this raug,

from

fire

when,

it;

flames burst violently

to ashes.

" These and other anecdotes of the same nature, are related

by many of the Hindoos, and

produced by the maig mullaar raug was immediate

effect

And

it is

told, that

a singing

her voice in this raug, drew

freshing showers

girl

The

by some.

implicitly believed

rain.

once, by exerting the powers of

down from

the clouds timely and re-

on the parched rice-crops of Bengal, and thereby

averted the honors of famine from the paradise of regions.

European,

in that

country, inquiring after those whose musical

performance might produce similar

the art

is

now almost

lost,

effects, is

but that there are

gravely told " that

still

musicians pos-

sessed of those wonderful powers in the

West of

inquires in the West, they say,

any such performers

main, they are to be found only

"

Of

speak
possess
others

the present music,

'

that if

Many

plaintive simplicity of

the

it

excites,

of the Hindoo

re-

one can
melodies

Scotch and Irish;

a wild originality, pleasing beyond description.

VOL. III.

If one

India."

in Bengal.'

and the sensations

with greater accuracy.

the.

An

and

Counter-

298
point seems not to have entered, at any time, into the system of

Indian music.

which

It

is

not alluded to in the manuscript treatises

have hitherto perused; nor have

ingenious Orientalists speak

of our

of

discovered that any

known

being

as

it

in

Ilindostan/'

Many

me

attended the royal nuptials at Brodera, gave

the

Dhuboy who

of the brahmins and principal Hindoos of

entertainments,

which lasted many days.

an account of
I

have already

mentioned the nocturnal processions and expensive pageantry on

these occasions, but have not particularized the marriage

cere-

monies, which are given at large by Mr. Colebrook: from his ac-

count
but

little

subjoin a few of the most striking features, which vary

throughout Hindostan.

" The marriage ceremony opens with the solemn reception of

the

bridegroom by the father of the bride.

performed the obsequies of ancestors, as

sion of

is

good fortune, the father of the bride

Having previously

usual upon any accessits

down

to

await the

bridegroom's arrival, in the apartment prepared for the purpose,

and

at the time chosen for

The jewels, and

a cow

is

tied

it,

according to the rules of astrology.

other presents intended for him, are placed there;

on the norlhern side of the apartment, and a stool

or cushion, and other furniture for the reception of the guest, are

arranged

in

order.

welcome him, and

stands before him.

On

his

approach the

bride's father rises

recites a short prayer, while the

After the mention of

many

to

bridegroom

previous cere-

monies, presents suitable to the rank of the parties are then presented to the guest.
formally given

At the marriage ceremony,

by her father

to

too,

the bride

is

the bridegroom in this stage of

299
the solemnity

according to some

The hospitable

others.

Vasus,

sister

she expiate

who

by

are then concluded

rites

the cow, at the intercession of the o-uest,

innocent harmless cow,

but later according U,

rituals,

is

letting loose

says "

who

not the

kill

molher of Rudkas, daughter of

May

of A'dytas, and the source of ambrosia.

my

sins

may

her that she

release

graze."

evident that the bridegroom's intercessions imply a practice,

become

obsolete,

It

is

now

of slaying a cow for the purposes of hospi-

tality.

Many

pages of ceremonies then follow, which lead to one of

more consequence: when the bridegroom puts

his left

hand under

the bride's hands, which are joined together in a hollow form, and

then taking her right hand in

"

First, I

May

the generous, mighty,

sun render thee a matron, that I

Second, Be gentle in

holder.

band; be fortunate

five

recites the six following texts.

take thee for the sake of good fortune, that thou mayest

prolific

in thy

he

old with me, thy husband.

become
and

his,

th}'

aspect,

amiable

in cattle;

may be

and loyal

a house-

to thy hus-

mind, and beautiful

in thy

person; be mother of surviving sons; be assiduous at the

sacraments; be cheerful, and bring prosperity to our bipeds

and quadrupeds.

Third,

geny, even unto old age;

spicuous.

May
may

the lord of creatures grant us pro-

the sun render that progeny con-

Auspicious deities have given thee to me.

Enter thy

husband's abode; and bring health to our bipeds and quadrupeds.

Fourth,

Iicdra, who pourest forth rain

render this

woman

fortunate and the mother of children: grant her ten sons, give her

eleven protectors.
to his mother,

Fifth,

Be submissive

to his sister,

and

to

thy husband's father,

to his brothers.

Sixth,

Give thy

300
my

heart to

may

religious duties;

ihou consentient to

my

mind follow mine; be

thy

May Vhiiiaspati

speech.

unite thee

unto me."
This
at large

succeeded by a variety of other ceremonies, mentioned

is

the married couple

and

austerely,

that

is,

must abstain from

factitious salt, live chastely

On

and sleep on the ground.

the following day,

on the fourth exclusively, the bridegroom conducts the

own house on a

bride to his

ance.

He

riage.

"

carriage,

wife of the sun

or other suitable convey-

when she ascends

recites the following text

ascend

tints,

and coloured

like gold;

butea,

bring

bride, he, or

happiness to thy husband!"

some other person

for

on their coming to a cross road: "

tinged

with

well constructed; furnished

with good wheels, and the source of ambrosia (that

ings),

the car-

resembling the

this vehicle,

blossoms of the cotton-tree, and

beautiful

various

During the three subsequent days

by Mr. Colebrook.

is,

of bless-

Proceeding with his

him, recites the following text

May

road, remain ignorant of this journey;

who

robbers,

may

infest

the

the married couple

reach a place of security and difficult of access by easy roads,

and may foes keep aloof!"

Alighting from the carriage, the bridegroom leads the bride
into the house, chanting the

welcome the

bride,

bridegroom then

and make her

may

sit

called TYwiadivi/a.

down on a

recites the following

produce numerous young;

and

hymn

the deity

sit

may

here,

prayer:

horses and

bull's

"

human

by whose favour

May

Matrons
hide; the

kine here

beings do so;

sacrifices are

accom-

plished with gifts a thousand fold."

I shall

not detail the further ceremonies and sacrificial

fires in

301
the bridegroom's

may be

those of the whole nuptial

house;

The bridegroom goes

thus recapitulated.

house where the bride's father

to the

as a guest.

The

bride

is

resides,

and

procession

in

welcomed

there

is

given to him by her father, in the form

usual at every solemn donation, and their hands are

bound toge-

with cusa grass; he clothes the bride with an upper and

ther

lower oarment, and the

skirts

The bridegroom makes

ther.

on

rice

solemnity

hand

as an

it

in marriage.

round the

fire:

of her mantle and his are tied

oblations to

fire,

and the bride drops

The bridegroom solemnly

oblation.

tos;e-

takes her

They walk

She treads on a stone and mullar.

by the

the bride steps seven times, conducted

bridegroom, and he then dismisses the spectators, the marriage

being

now complete and

day the bride

sits

Jn the evening of the same

irrevocable.

down on

a bull's hide, and the bridegroom

emblem of

points out to her the polar star, as an

The bridegroom remains

then partake of a meal.

the house of the bride's father.

her to his

own house

comed by

his

to

kindred

in
;

On

the fourth

solemn procession.

They

three days at

day he conducts
She

is

there wel-

and the solemnity ends with oblations

fire.

In

my

letter,

appropriated to the Hindoos, I mentioned the

custom of marrying
as

stability.

much

their children

practised in

in

a state of infancy.

It is

Guzerat, as in other parts of Ilindos.tan:

although great part of the preceding ceremonies arc intended for

persons more advanced in

Colebrook remarks, that

life.

On

"among

this

the

part of the subject Mr.

Hindoos a

girl

is

married

before the age of puberty; the law even censures the delay of the

marriage beyond the tenth year.

For

this

reason, and because

302
may be an

bridegroom too

the

should be consummated
recital

infant,

it is

long after

until

it

rare that a marriage

of prayers on this occasion constitutes

mony, and

it is

the

a religious cere-

it

of those that are performed for the pur-

first

pose of expiating the sinful taint which a child

have contracted
"

On

womb of his

in the

The

solemnization.

immature

the practice of

the preceding paragraph,

to

mother."
nuptials, a subject suggested in

may be remarked,

it

supposed

is

that

it

arises

from

a laudable motive; from a sense of duty incumbent on a father,

who

considers as a debt the obligation of providing a suitable

match

for his daughter.

by Hindoo
parents.

legislators,

But

This notion, which

is

strongly inculcated

is

impressed on

forcibly

in their zeal to dispose

the

of a daughter in marriage,

they do not perhaps sufficiently consult her domestic

the death of an infant husband, she

hood

for the period

of her

life.

is

minds of

condemned

felicity.

to virgin

By

widow-

If both survive, the habitual

bickerings of their infancy are prolonged in perpetual discord.

"Numerous
on parents

restrictions in

this necessity

the assortment of matches

impose

of embracing the earliest opportunity of

affiancing their children to

fit

companions.

The

intermarriages

of different classes, formerly permitted, with certain limitations,

are

now wholly

sixth of affinity;

forbidden.

The

prohibited degrees extend to the

and even the bearing of the same family name

is

a sufficient cause of impediment."

Another writer on the Hindoo marriages,

previous ceremonies,

says " the

golden head hanging to

it, is

company, some prayers and

tali,

which

is

after

reciting the

a ribbon with a

held ready; and, being shewn to the

blessings are

pronounced;

after

which

303
the bridegroom takes

knot

is

fore he

and hangs

it,

what particularly secures

had put the

on,

tali

his possession

the

tali is

But when once

be-

for,

the

tali is

whenever the husband

indissoluble; and,

is

of her:

This

the rest of the ceremonies might

all

have been made to no purpose.

on, the marriage

about the bride's neck.

it

put

dies,

burnt along with him, to shew that the marriage bands

are broken."

It

ceremony

part of the

this

is

to

which Southey

alludes in the " Curse of Kehama," where Azla and Nealliny, the

two wives of Arvalan, are

voluntarily,

on

sacrificed

his funeral pile; the

These stanzas contain an

the other by compulsion.

animated description of the ceremony, from which

select

that in

which the

tali,

Woe

A zla

or marriage knot,

mentioned.
woe

Upon

for

takes her seat

the funeral pile

Calmly she took her

Calmly the whole

As on her

The

lifeless

pomp

head of Arvalan was

!

The young
strip

seat,

survey'd}

lap the while

Woe woe
They

terrific

laid

Nealliny,

Nealliny

her ornaments away,

Bracelet and anklet, ring, and chain, and zone

Around her neck they

leave

The marriage knot alone

That marriage band, which when

Yon waning moon was

Around her

With

virgin

bridal joy

Then with white

Her jetty

young,

neck

was hung.

flowers, the coronal of death,

locks they crown."

one

is

I shall only

particularly

304
About
a

visit

to

the officers of the Bengal detachment, then

He

near Brodera.

and

field-pieces

be present at the experiment.

to

on a

chieftain left the durbar

ary cavalcade

encamped

wished to consult them upon an inlended

alteration in his artillery,

The

wedding, Futty Sihng paid

the lime of his daughter's

state elephant,

eminence where the

arriving at the bottom of the

were mounted,

and the custom-

was found the elephant could not

it

ascend, and there being no palanquin at hand, the prince of the

Guicawars was compelled

summit,

to

the astonishment of the

On

derogatory to his dignity.

proclaimed

and walk a few yards

to alight,

the

titles

ever saw then

of the most insignificant looking

became the destroyer of

make way

mortal to

approach

and master condescends

Arrogant as

this

After

of oriental pageantry

and

to set his foot

language

may

in general.

commanding every

exalted prince, the heralds

for this

not, guanas, lizards,

men

nations, the leveller of

called aloud to the animal creation, Retire,

locusts;

it

advancing, the chopdars, or heralds,

mountains, the exhauster of the ocean.

inferior

who thought

of this princely cow-keeper in the usual

One

hyperbolical style.

attendants,

to the

ye serpents;

fly,

ye

reptiles, while }'our lord

on the earth.

appear,

it

is

less so

than that

In a translation from the Sanscrit,

Mr. Wilkins mentions an eastern monarch " whose innumerable

army, Avhen

it

moved, so

filled

the heavens with the dust of their feet,

that the birds of the air could rest

like

it.

His elephants moved

walking mountains; and the earth, oppressed by their weight

mouldered

into dust/'

such hyperbole:
"

upon

The

sacred writings afford

many instances of

none more so than Hushai's speech

Thou knowest that king David, thy

father,

and

to

Absalom.

his

men, that

305
they be mighty

men; and they be chafed

robbed of her whelps.

by the sea

dew

the

is

city,

will

falleth

Dan

all

we

multitude: and

will light

Moreover,

if

upon him

be

as

he be gotten into

and we

Israel bring ropes into that city;

into the river,

it

all Israel

even unto Beersheba, as the sand

upon the ground.

then shall

draw

for

minds, as a bear

Therefore I counsel thee that

gathered unto thee, from

that

in their

be not one stone found

until there

there."

Such adulation has always been practised

says, " the

most

lofty titles,

and was

Roman emperors

carried to the most arrogant height by the

the East, even after their conversion

in Asia;

of

Gibbon

to Christianity.

and the most humble postures which

devotion has applied to the Supreme Being, have been prostituted

by

flattery

and

The mode of

fear to creatures of the

same nature with

ourselves.

adoration, of falling prostrate on the ground, and

kissing the feet of the emperor, was borrowed from Persian servi-

tude; but

it

was continued and aggravated

Greek monarchy.
all

who

till

the last age of the

This humiliating reverence was exacted from

entered the royal presence, from the princes invested with

the diadem and purple, and from the ambassadors

who

repre-

sented their independent sovereigns, the caliphs of Asia, Egypt,

or Spain, the kings of France and Italy,

of ancient
scribes his

Rome.

own

and the Latin emperors

Liutprand, ambassador from Otho, thus de-

introduction.

"

When

he approached the throne,

the birds of the golden tree began to warble their notes, which

were accompanied by the roarings of two

lions of gold; with his

two companions, Liutprand was compelled

prostrate;

VOL.

and

III.

thrice

to

bow and

to fall

he touched the ground with his forehead.

2

306
He

but in the short

rose,

an engine from the

in

interval, the throne

floor to the deling, the imperial figure

new and more gorgeous

cluded

in

had been hoisted by

apparel, and the interview was con-

haughty and majestic

cession, the gracious or

appeared

silence."

On

the eve of a pro-

devout intention of the emperor was pro-

claimed by the heralds: the streets were cleared and purified; the

pavement was strewed with

flowers; the

most precious

furniture,

the gold and silver plate, and silken hangings, were displayed from
the

windows and

balconies,

and a severe

discipline restrained

and

The march was opened by

silenced the tumult of the populace.

the military officers at the head of their troops; they were fol-

lowed

in

long order by the magistrates and ministers of the civil

government.

The person of

the emperor

was guarded by

his

eunuchs and domestics, and at the church-door he was solemnly

ceived by the patriarch and his clergy.

was not abandoned

to the rude

The

re-

task of applause

and spontaneous voices of the

Convenient stations were occupied by chosen bands, who

responsive melody echoed the praises of the emperor.
Their

crowd.
in

poets and musicians directed the choir, and long

life

and victory

were the burden of every song."

Such was

the style of ancient adulation; the ostentatious

expensive entertainments of

Asuph

ul

Dowlah have

ample display of modern pageantry; perhaps none

any more exhibited,

for

and

afforded an

like

it

will

be

such things must be nearly at an end with

the Indian princes; their wealth, their power, their palaces, their

mausoleums,

wells,

pect of revival.

Mogul

cities

and

Few

serais, are all

decaying, without a pros-

places of less importance than the royal

evince this melancholy change more than lirodera.

307
The

sovereign, the capital, army, peasantry, every thing that de-

pends on Futty Sihng's administration, displays

weakness, and bad

attachment and

trait in

wisdom and policy

to be his

Futty Sihng's character

so long preserving the

in

of his virtuous

faithful services

Hiroo Nand, then

oppression,

taste.

Almost the only commendable

seemed

his

lately deceased, as hereafter

vizier, or

duan,

mentioned.

His

immediate friends and companions were men of debauched prin-

The Ayeen Akbery would have

and infamous conduct.

ciples

taught the Brodera chief a better lesson; from another virtuous

vizier, the

wise

Abul

would there have learned, that " the

Fazel, he

companions of a prince, whose advice he follows

moment, resemble

water.

When

ment, they wash off the dust of

distressed,

and

diffuse freshness

of

they are of a mild tempera-

affliction

and

in affairs

from the hearts of the

delight.

But

if

they depart

from moderation, they inundate the world with a deluge of calamities; so that

numbers are overwhelmed by the billowy waves

of misfortune.

Speaking of

ber, he says,

is

hearts of
cations,

but

is

his constant

own

sovereign, the immortal

endeavour

to gain

suffers

not his temper to be in any degree disturbed,

always cheerful.

He

is

ever striving to do that which

found and abstract speculations.

is

From

may

mind on pro-

his

his thirst after

wisdom,

continually labouring to benefit by the knowledge of others,

while he makes no account of his

He

and secure the

Amidst a thousand cares and perplexing avo-

be most acceptable to the Deity, and employs

he

Ak-

men.

all

he

it

his

listens to

that his heart

own

sagacious administration.

what every one hath to say, because

may

it

may happen

be enlightened by the communication of a just

308
But although

sentiment, or by the relation of a laudable action.

a long period has elapsed in

he has never yet met

this practice,

with a person whose judgment he could prefer to his own: nay,

the most experienced statesmen, on beholding this ornament of

own

the throne, blush at their

arts

of government;

he

sagacity,

will

insufficiency,

and study anew the

abundance of

nevertheless, out of the

his

not suffer himself to quit the paths of inquiry.

Although he be surrounded with power and splendour, yet he

never suffers himself to be led away by anger or wrath.

employ

to lull

story-tellers

contrary, listens to

them

them

but

to sleep,

his majesty,

From

keep him awake.

to

Others

on the

the excess

of his righteousness he exercises upon himself both inward and

outward

austerities;

order that those

who

and pays some regard

to external

are attached to established customs,

forms, in

ma} not
7

have any cause for reproach.

"

He

never laughs

nor ridicules any religion or sect.

at,

He

never wastes his time, nor omits the performance of any duty; so
that through the blessing of his upright intentions, every action of
his life

may

be considered as an adoration of the Deity.

He

is

continually returning thanks unto Providence, and scrutinizing his

own conduct.
following

But he most especially so employs himself

staled limes:

at

diffuse his rays; at noon,

day-break,

when

when

pears from the inhabitants of the earth

series

his

ascent.

His

of virtues and suund morality.

wise of

all

sun begins to

that grand illuminator of the uni-

verse shines in full resplendence; in the

when he recommences

the

at the

evening,
;

when he

disap-

and again at midnight,

life

God

is
is

an uninterrupted
witness that the

ranks are unanimous in this declaration/'

309

We

must allow something

for the partiality of a grateful minis-

during a long period high in the favour of a sovereign

ter,

truly appreciated his services: but

that

Akber

one of the

is

it

will

be generally granted

characters recorded in history;

finest

approaching, perhaps, the nearest to our own

"

In

whom

" And

Akber had not

his

Alfred.

the splendour of heroic war,

" And more

" Combine

who

when

heroic peace,

govern'd well,

whose hallow'd name, the Virtues

own Muses love

the best of Kings

Few

Thomson.

had not been taught

the trials of Alfred; he

the school of adversity.

saint,

!"

in

reigns have been so long, fewer so

prosperous as Akber's; yet he always preserved a consistency of

The annual ceremony of weighing

character.
reign, with

its

consequent largesses, as also

giving, ought not

to pass

Akber bestowed money and

the hearts of

all in

To

unnoticed.

the imperial sovehis

mode of

the poor

alms-

and needy

necessaries of every kind, gladdening

public or private.

Many

were allowed daily,

monthly, or annual pensions, which they received regularly, without any delay or deduction.

Besides those establishments,

sums that were daily bestowed upon particular persons,

quence of representations made

in

the

conse-

in their favour, as well as the

food

and necessaries constantly distributed amongst the indigent, were

beyond description.
for that

purpose

treasurer always

waited in his presence

and every needy person who presented himself

before his majesty, had his necessities instantly relieved.

As

means of bestowing a

largess

upon

emperor was weighed twice a year, various

the

articles

indigent, the

being put into

310
The

the opposite scale.

was

at the

time of performing the ceremony,

first

commencement of

anniversary of his majesty's

the Persian

month Aban,

birth-day.

He

was then weighed

twelve times against the following articles:

raw-silk,

artificial

gold,

quick-silver,

perfumes, musk, rootootea, intoxicating drugs,

ghee, iron, rice-milk, eight kinds of grain, and

time,

the solar

At the same

salt.

according to the years he had lived, there were

away a

like

number of

given

who
number

sheep, goats, and fowls, to people

kept those animals for the purpose of breeding.

of wild birds were also set at liberty

great

The

on that occasion.

second time of performing the ceremony was on the

fifth

of the

Arabian month Rejib, when he was weighed eight times against the
following things: silver,

At

and pot-herbs.

oil,

linen cloth, lead, dried fruits, sesame-

tin,

the

same time the

festival

of Salgeerah

was celebrated, and donations bestowed upon people of

The

king's sons

ranks.

and grandsons were weighed once a year, on the

solar anniversary of their

eight things,

all

and some as

respective nativities, against seven or

far as twelve,

which number they never

exceeded, and according to their respective ages, a certain number

of beasts and fowls were given away, and set at liberty.

were appointed

for

this

ceremony

separate

There

treasurer,

and

mushreff.

The

coins

and

seals of the

empire also

of Akber: previous to his reign gold,

illustrate the character

silver,

and copper, were

coined in various parts of the Mogul empire; he restricted the

coinage of gold to four places, Agra, Bengal, Ahmedabad, and

Cabul.

Silver coin

was allowed

to be struck in

fourteen

cities,

including the preceding four: mints for copper coin were appointed

.-

311
in twenty-eight cities.

Great attention was paid to assaying and

refining the various metals,

and treasury.
of the realm,

and to every department of the mint

The gold and

when brought

silver

signets of the

It

Mahomedan

is

to give

artists,

well

known

the

it

is

is

to

be stamped, as

usually impressed

with

of the reigning monarch, the dale of the year in the

Hegira, and perhaps some appropriate or flattering

reign of

and

princes have no portrait or armorial

generally practised in Europe:

name

each specimen

the coins, medals,

bearings cut on the die from which the coin

is

was

to the greatest degree of purity,

committed to the most celebrated

the perfection of beauty.

intended for the current coin

In the

title.

Akber were struck those immense gold masses,

guished as the immortal coins

upwards of one hundred

mohurs, not
ing the gold

much

short of

mohur

the largest, called sehenseh, weighed

tolahs,

in value

one hundred

two hundred pounds

laal jilaly

sterling

estimat-

crown each

at fifteen silver rupees of half a

others were of half that value

distin-

from which they diminished

to the

small round mohur, valued at nine silver rupees; some of these

were marked with flowers, especially the tulip and the

rose, but

of any animated form.

In the

never with the representation

place of such emblems,

Akber had moral

sentences, tetrastichs

from the Persian poets, the praises of the Almighty, or

titles,

engraved on the die in a most beautiful manner.

his

own

On

the

sehenseh were these words on one side:

"

The sublime monarch!

the most exalted khalif

May God

perpetuate his kingdom and his reign! and increase his justice

and righteousness!

On

"

the reverse of the sehenseh

312
" The best coin

which

that

is

with the necessaries of

life,

is

and that

employed

companions

benefits the

men

supplying

in

in the

road to God/'

On

another coin of the same value

more condensed
lation

"

in the

is

this tetrastich,

which

is

Persian character than in an English trans-

The

sun, from

whom

the seven seas obtain pearls.

" The black stone from his rays obtains a jewel.

" The mine from the correcting influence of his beams obtains gold.

" That gold

"

On

God

ennobled by the impression of Shah Akber.

is
is

the greatest;

mighty

the reverse the date of the

is

his glory!"

month and

year, with the fol-

lowing: tetrastich

" This coin, which

is

the garment of hope, carries an everlast-

" ing impression and immortal name."

On some

of the smaller coins were the following inscriptions in

some of them ornamented with a

Persian characters,

and

tulip

wild -rose:

"

God

is

greatest!"

" greatest! mighty

on the

his glory!"

is

reverse, "

Defender!" "

God

reverse, the date.

" This current coin accompanies the star of good fortune

sun nourishes

it

for this cause, that to eternity it

the impression of

b}"

These are

On

the

may be ennobled

specimens of Akber's coins

the seals of this

were equally characteristic of his piety and justice.

the seal for petitions were these words,

" Rectitude

Akber Shah."

sufficient

illustrious prince

is

is

the

never saw any one

means of pleasing God!

lost in

a straight road."

313
There

one exception

is

in

Hindostan,

if

not more, to the gene-

Mahomedan emperors not permitting any effigy, or

the representation of men and animals on the imperial coins
this
is well known to those who have seen the zodiac rupees in India
ral rule

of the

which, in complete

sets,

are

now only

to

be met with in the cabinets

of the curious, or occasionally found singly in different provinces.

once saw an entire collection of these rupees

others procured by chance of the

copper never came within

in silver,

and

ber,

father of

my observation.

There are two legends

One

relates, that

emperor Jehangheer, son of the celebrated Ak-

Shah Jehan,

or Light of the World, a

woman

his favourite

over his empire, she ordered

Noor Jehan,

Sultana

of transcendent beauty and genius,

having prevailed upon the emperor

to

and a few

same metal: those of gold and

current in India respecting these singular coins.

in the reign of the

anew

grant her power for one day

to

coinage in the different metals,

be impressed under twelve varied

dies,

with the signs of the

whence they have been always distinguished by

zodiac, from

that

This was certainly the most effectual, and perhaps

appellation.

the most ingenious method of giving universality and perpetuity

to the existence of her influence over

Another story
Jehan,

in the

butes to a

rejects

an imperial husband.

the interference of

coinage of the zodiac rupees, which

whim

of the emperor himself;

prince of great eccentricity, and though a

vivant,

the

and possibly issued the order when

as

sultana
it

Noor

rather attri-

Jehangeer was a

Mussulman was a bonin

a mirthful mood.

In

refutation of that part of the legend which limits the whole coinage
to

one day,
VOL. III.

it

is

asserted

that the zodiac rupees are of different

2 s

314
dates,

clever

and

it

supposed that the Mogul pint-master had souk*

is

European

in

his

service,

from sonic of the figures be-

The

ing executed in a masterly manner, in the European style.

dies are

unequal, and some of the

impressions are

very

dif-

ferent

Our encampment without the walls of Brodera was so pleasant, that we seldom entered the city; which, like most other Indian towns, was hot, dusty, and disagreeable, affording no attrac-

No

tions to vie with the natural beauties of the country.

are

more shady, no

more

plains

more

delightful,

no lotos-covered lakes

For here they

than in the Brodera purgunna.

brilliant,

groves

have the addition of that lovely species of the menianthes sometimes seen on the margin of the lakes on Salsette;

most elegant aquatic plants

in

it

is

one of the

Uindostan, smaller than the

lotos,

with beautiful fringed petals of the purest while, floating on the

When

surface of the water, surrounded by a dark foliage.

too cold lo
light

sit

under summeanas without our

tents,

the

not

moon-

evenings afforded a tranquil pleasure, more easily conceived

than described.

champachs near

The
the

air

was perfumed from the mogrees and

Mahomedan mausoleums, whose

gave a melancholy interest

to

while domes

the surrounding groves;

which

after the

monkeys, peacocks, and

were

enlivened by the prolonged notes of the bulbul, con-

still

squirrels

tinued sometimes an hour after sun-set;

had

this

retired

lo

favourite songster

was succeeded by the pepeeheh, which frequently serenaded

midnight hour.

The pepeeheh

is

said,

rest,

by Abnl Fazel, to

the
sing-

most enchantingly during the night, at the commencement of the

315
rains;

when

This bird

is

lays cause

its

llie

old

also called peeyoo,

wounds of

which

lovers to bleed afresh.

in the Sanscrit

language

sig-

nifies beloved.

The

cold evenings in January often compelled us to leave the

sutnmeana, and

retire for

coldest season

ever

experienced

warmth within our

Guzerat;

felt in

tents.

more

far

This was the

so than

is

generally

twenty-third degree of north latitude;

in the

it

was

most intense about an hour before sun-rise; and although there

was no

ice,

the cold

than the autumnal

was certainly more sharp and penetrating

frosts

in

India, but I have been told

to

have seen

England.

some

month of January,

old people at Surat

remembered

for several

days together,

in

the

twenty-fourth degree of north latitude,

in the

met with sharp

their vessels, for

frosts,

and

more than two hours

meter, which had been exposed

in the

never met with ice in

In an interesting journey in 1798, from Mirza-

it.

poor to Nagpoor, we find that

the travellers

all

night,

ice

on the ponds and

in

thermo-

after sun-rise: a

was covered with

morning, and stood after sun-rise at 21. This appears

icicles

to

have

been the coldest night exhibited by Fahrenheit's thermometer on

that journey; which generally stood at 23 or 24 at sun-rise, rose
at

noon

to 62,

and by ten

The grandest
this

feature,

at night

from

all

fell

to 31.

our northern encampments on

excursion, was the stupendous mountain of Powa-ghurr

at that distance appeared a single eminence; but

picturesque scenery, an account of which

future chapter.

The water

at

is

which

on a nearer ap-

proach was observed to be connected with a range of

much

hills,

introduced

and
in

Powa-ghur, and many mountainous

3)6
tracts in

Hindostan,

is

attended with deleterious effects; frequenlFj

causing incurable sickness, and the premature death of strangers.

Our

tents,

on

this

journey, were more than once pitched near

the spot set apart for the Chandalahs;

who,

as already

mentioned,

are seldom permitted to reside within the city walls, nor to have

near the other inhabitants

their habitations

The

poor outcasts, with the reflections naturally

sight of these

occurring, from

open towns.

the

in

their abject

proved an alloy to the

condition,

notes of the bulbul and the perfume of the champach.

possible to behold

them without

endeavoured

fruitless.

the other

to meliorate their condition;

The liberal-minded Aul

Hindoo

castes

im-

Under my own

rooted were the prejudices of the higher castes, that

were

is

pity, and, while subject to brah-

minical influence, without hope of amendment.

administration

It

all

but so

attempts

Fazel, discriminating all

by some appropriate

characteristic, with

a frigid brevity, unlike his usual benevolence, says " the chandalahs are vile wretches,

ing polluted things

been

defiled

among

who

eat carrion."

And when

mention-

the Hindoos, he adds. " water that has

by the shadow of a chandalah,

son-shine, moon-shine, or wind, and that

is

to

wooden

bo. purified by

vessels, if

touched

by a chandalah, cannot be purified by any means.

It

is

curious to observe (although in

for in other parts of these

for

murder,

among

some measure accounted

volumes) that in

fines

and punishments

other castes of Hindoos, no mention

of killing the poor pariar or outcast chandalah.

Malabars
to

have particularly noticed, that

if

is

made

Amongst

the

the pooleahs, (similar

the pariars and chandalahs,) appear on the high-road while a

317
brahmin or nair passes by, or even while

their provision

carried

is

along, they are destroyed, like a wild beast, for daring to breathe

same atmosphere with those

the

"If an

Hindoo law on murder:

brahmin

If a

shall suffer death.

be confiscated, and the hair of

branded
leree,

min

he

shall

inferior

his

his superior,

kills

he

a brahmin, his estate shall

kills

head cut

and banished.

in the forehead

Thus says the

inflated tribes.

off;

he

shall

be

If a brahmin kills a keh-

be fined one thousand cows, and a

If a brah-

bull.

a byse, he shall be fined one hundred cows, and a bull.

kills

If a brahmin

Here seems

kills

to

a sooder, he shall be fined ten cows and a bull."

be a regular scale of degradation in

from a thousand cows

to

ten,

human

nature;

according to the elevation or de-

pression of casle: in which the chandalah

is

not deemed worthy

of notice.

The

efficient

government of a nation whose own laws and

privileges (as far as

human

institutions can) deservedly boast the

perfection of jurisprudence, whose

monarch extends

over sixty millions of Asiatic subjects, will surely

in

giving

full effect

House of Commons

to that wise

to

sceptre

now be

exerted

and benevolent resolution of the

in 1793; " that

duty of the legislature

his

it is

promote, by

the peculiar and

all

just

bounden

and prudent means,

the interests and happiness of the inhabitants of the British domi-

nions in India; and that for these ends, such measures ought to

be adopted, as may gradually tend

ful

to their

advancement

in use-

knowledge, and to their religious and moral improvement."

From

so

long a residence

degraded chandalahs, and

sionally

amongst the exalted brahmins and

witnessing

many

mentioned among the natives of India,

other
I

evils

occa-

cannot refrain

318
from adding

and

ledge,

my

evidence, however humble, to ihc mass of know-

The more we

from abler pens.

tion of the lower tribes

sensations in a
1

shall

thrown on

brilliant lights, lately

mind of

reflect

this interesting subject,

on the degraded

situa-

of Hindoos, the more unpleasant are the

This

sensibility.

touch upon the theme.

probably the

is

lime

last

therefore briefly give the senti-

ments of a mild, unprejudiced observer of the Hindoos; a man

of learning and piety,

who made

amongst the people

his researches

he describes.*
"

The Hindoo

tion of the great

superstition

makes no

The

body of the people.

other sacred books contain,

it is

said, a

provision for the instruc-

vedas, puranas, and

copious system of the most

unexceptionable morality; and from the specimens already translated, this

must

in

part be admitted.

of the Hindoos have always

But the canonical books

been regarded as a bequest too

sacred to be committed to vulgar hands; to the far greater part

of society they are

in

strictly

forbidden, and are

the most emphatic sense, a dead letter.

the ignorance of the great

doomed

to

remain,

Nothing can equal

body of the people, on every subject

relating to religion, morals, or

literature.

Few

of them can ex-

plain the genealogy or attributes ascribed to their deities.

do not understand the meaning of the ceremonies they attend

the nature and obligations of their duty they

but are wholly incapable to describe.

ignorance, so gross and universal,
dation:
fices

it

is

may

They
;

and

obscurely

feel,

The inconvenience

of

too obvious to require eluci-

renders the mass of the people not only dupes to the arti-

of priestcraft, but subjects them to the imposition of every

* Dr. Tennant.

319
charlatan

who

The charms,

pretends

to

any

art

and exorcisms,

incantations,

of the medical

in

skill

or science whatever.
that here

make

a part

show, that the grossest impositions, in

art, clearly

other matters as well as religion,

may

be turned to account

among

an uninformed multitude.
"

The ignorance of

shaded

their character with

rendered them

not only

a diffidence and timidity, which has

slaves of their

the

foreigners, in every age, but has

to

an inferior rank

body of the natives of India, has

the great

among human

degrading superstition.
is

to

alone able to effect

tempt.

While

their

The higher

undertake
it,

this

this condition,

the multiplied fetters of

orders of the brahmins,

are the least likely to

own minds

which cultivated reason teaches

who are perhaps

make any such at-

work, and

are comparatively enlightened

a pure system of natural religion, and

ousness,"

From

contempt of the brave, and

down by

while their intellects are chained

it

some measure,

of the wise, you in vain endeavour to raise them

the compassion

whose duty

beings.

or

in

degraded them,

Avhich has so often called forth the

their

own monarchs,

all

by

those precepts of duty,

they "detain the truth in unrighte-

and commit the people

to be

guided by the grosser sys-

tems of superstition and error.

" Those polemical disputes in religion and politics, which in

Europe sometimes
curiosity,

in India.

disturb society,

but which

and invigorate the powers of

The Hindoo

shelters himself

always awaken

intellect, are

unheard of

from such turmoils

total apathy, or listlessness of thought,

more resembling the

ness of the grave, or annihilation

than the

a rational being.

itself,

common

in

still-

efforts

of

320
" The description Dr. Robertson has given of the early progress
its

made by

assertions:

the Hindoos
it"

is

more erroneous than

all

the

have been, confined

theological

many

application to the bulk of the people,

more

meant

to describe.

to the great

did not exist.

if it

service in

the higher ranks, for

promoting

Of consequence

their

by nineteen

in

common

must prove of
thing

the

power of

habit,

may

The portion pos-

twenty of the whole community,

To

paratively nothing.

it

The same

interests.

be affirmed of every branch of knowledge.

sessed

The moral and

and learned alone.

in

sciences

and always

completely beyond the reach of the

as

is

The

liberal arts, are at present,

knowledge possessed by a few

ages,

people as
little

its

but nothing can be

strictly just;

is

it

the foregoing strictures are

of India, and

in

applied to the higher orders of the brahmins, or

the princes of Hindostan,

whom

extremely accurate and guarded

is

com-

and the influence

of custom alone, they are consigned for the direction of themselves.

Reason, inert and feeble as

share in what

we

justly regard as

them

in
its

it

must prove, has

peculiar province.

little

In such

circumstances certainly no people can be more entitled to indul-

gence towards

weakness and errors; and there

their

is

certainly

none who have stronger claims upon our sympathy and tenderness.
Britons

now occupy

the

places of their native princes; and the

blessings of protection, instruction,

and encouragement

in virtue,

which there are too frequently withheld, Providence has bestowed

upon

us as a sacred duty to bestow."

These appear strong and conclusive arguments; they oppose

a weighty testimony

to that assertion, that "

ciples of moral reasoning,

the

Hindoo code

on the enlarged prinlittle

needs the melio-

321
rating

hand of

christian dispensations."

the Hindoos, on

a mild,

liberal,

Can

the conversion of

and benevolent plan, be called

misguided zeal; a zeal without prudence and without knowledge?

By

a real christian

whether they are

surely cannot be

it

deemed a thing

indifferent,

be taught the truths of the gospel; whether

to

they shall be transferred from darkness to light; and from the

w orship of

idols to the adoration of the living

standing

not be generally admitted.

Menu

code of

cluded by

Notwith-

that has been alleged in the controversy respecting

all

the conversion of our Indian subjects, this

will

God!

it

are

many

It

is

an hypothesis that

must be obvious

dreadful desiderata;

that in the

millions are ex-

from the knowledge of the Hindoo religion; a

reli-

unjust a foundation, that a brahmin

may

gion, indeed,

upon

commit

most heinous crimes with comparative impunity;

the

so

while the poor chandalah,

from the
silent

common

who

leads a virtuous

right of humanity.

Does

life, is

the latter

appeal to the feeling hearts of British legislators?

Hindoo law-giver

(so far

prohibited

make no

When

from offering him the benefits of

the

religion)

does not even permit him to tread the outer courts of the temple,
does

it

not

still

more behove an enlightened government

to ten-

der him the comforts of the gospel, and an equitable share in the

common

rights of

on which a

man

stress is

now

It

is

laid;

not the mysteries of Christianity

it

is

on the divine consolations

afforded by that blessed revelation, and the practice of the moral

duties which

it

inculcates.

From

this practice,

from these enjoy-

ments, the lower classes of Hindoos are more or less excluded.

Christian's Bible

Our

is

The

not " an exercise of ingenuity, but of obedience.

great duties are written with a sun-beam; to believe what

VOL.

III.

is

322
what

true, to love

what

amiable, to do what

is

We

appointed.

is

bring

the

into

and

right,

is

to suffei

tempers and

world

dispositions which are strong obstacles to these attainments.

To

surmount these obstacles

we

the

is

of a christian;

life

were brought into being: as we pursue or neglect

answer or defeat the end

for this

shall

Hannah

which we were born."

for

we

this,

More.

On

leaving the Brodera purgunna,

Meah-Gaum

belonging to the

Hindoo

me

more than any

chieftain,

of the ancient

patriarchs;

nearly resembled those of

Rajah. Like him,

rajah,

this

my

we entered a small

named Ramul

I ever

and

his

Hindoo

in battle,

and

in the service

lived

host at

esteemed

in that

Ram-

under the same roof

Some

others

of foreign princes, some had fallen

several daughters

caste, in different

reminded

domestic arrangements

with twelve of his sons, their wives and children.

were engaged

This

Sihng.

in India,

Mahomedan

venerable

respectable

saw

territory

were married among their

parts of Guzerat.

Ramul Sihng was

own

highly

province: although not abounding in wealth, or

possessing a large revenue, he was kind and hospitable to strangers; gave

them the milk and honey of

bidden by religious tenets to

flock, the

milk of

sent to travellers
visit to his

many

his kine,

who

kill

his land;

and, though for-

the fatted calf, the firstlings of his

and the

fruits

of his garden were always

visited his little capital.

It

humble durbar; where, surrounded by

was a delightful
his children

generations, he prayed for blessings on their heads, and

braced them with paternal affection.

with the prince of Uz, in the

Ramul Sihng

number of

oxen; but he was equally happy

in

his

in

em-

did not vie

camels, sheep, and

a numerous family, and en-

323
joyed their society in the same manner.

quote the

I frequently

sacred historians, not only for their intrinsic truth and beauty, but

because they

illustrate oriental

than any other book

am

manners and customs more happily

acquainted with.

tween the ancient patriarch and the

little

Meah

rajah,

and character.

striking coincidence of circumstances

subjects in his

In the parallel be-

was a

there
I

heard the

principality speak of their parental

chief as

did the inhabitants of Uz, in days of yore; and in the very words
they used, which I noted

heard him, then

it

down

blessed him

at the time.

"

When

the ear

and when the eye saw him

it

gave

witness to him; because he delivered the poor, and the fatherless,

and him

that

had none

ready to perish came upon him

to sing for joy

The

The

to help him.
;

blessing of

him

was

that

and he caused the widow's heart

\"

rajah of

Meah Gaum was

indeed an amiable exception

the Indian portraits lately introduced.

With equal pleasure

to

now

bring forward two others, in the characters of Hiroo Nand, and

his amiable

wife, then lately deceased,

Hiroo Nand was duan

to

princely virtues himself,

knew how

vant.

His superior

abilities

and burnt

Brodera.

Futty Silmg; who, however deficient in

to

value them in a faithful ser-

and unshaken

integrity gained

esteem of his prince; he was equally beloved by

his justice,

at

him

the

his subjects for

moderation, and clemency in collecting the revenues

of the Guickwar, which annually amounted to sixty lacs of rupees.

Thus respected by

all

ranks, his happiness

having married a young lady of family,

of such a husband.

When

provinces, to her he intrusted

his

in

was complete, from

every respect worthy

presence was required

all his

in distant

concerns in Brodera; she not

324
only transacted business, audited accounts, carried on his corres-

pondence and received

This

own

more extraordinary,

short time previous to our visiting Brodera, Hiroo

was seized

is

the

either write or read.

with a dangerous fever at Neriad.

She accompanied
to

The brahmin physicians giving

hope of recovery, he sent

little

lime to administer the

was

but gave audience to

a very few

Hindoo women can

very

officers,

as

foreign deputations.

his

for his wife,

last consolations to

who

arrived in

her expiring husband.

corpse to Brodera, where the funeral pile

his

On

be erected, with a fixed resolve not to survive him.

hearing of the duan's

illness,

Futty Sihng sent to assure his wife

of his favour and protection; and in case of his decease promised

the regard due to a faithful minister should be transferred to his

widow and
will,

Her husband amply provided

children.

by

and, contrary to the laws of dowry, and general customs of

made

the Hindoos, he

were of no

her totally independent of his family.

avail, she persisted in her

to a better world,

The

All

determination to attend him

and suffered not the

tears

an aged mother and three helpless infants

to

nor supplications of

change her purpose.

funeral pyre was erected on the banks of the river Biswa-

An immense

minlree, without the gates of Brodera.

all

for her

ranks assembled at the cremation

panied the brahmins

concourse of

a band of music accom-

who superintended

the ceremony.

The bower

of death, enwreathed with sacred flowers, was erected over the

pile of

sandal-wood and spices, on which lay the body of the deAfter

ceased.

crowd

in

various ceremonies, the

music ceased, and the

solemn silence waited the arrival of the heroine!

approached from a temporary retirement with the brahmins,

She
at-

3Z5
tended by her mother, and three lovely children, arrayed
attire,

in

rich

and wearing the hymeneal crown, an ornament peculiar

a Hindoo bride at her marriage.

made

Oil reaching the pyre she

a salam to the surrounding spectators, and a low obeisance

to

to

her

After a few religious ceremonies, the attendants

husband's body.

took off her jewels, anointed her dishevelled hair with consecrated
ghee, as also the skirts of her flowing robe of yellow muslin (the

colour of nuptial
to dissuade her

Two

bliss).

from the

love was taken from her

Freed from

aoony.

widow, with an

lisping infants clung round her knees,

fatal

purpose; the

last

bosom by an aged

these

pledge of conjugal

parent, in speechless

heart-piercing mourners, the lovely

of solemn majesty, received a lighted torch

air

from the brahmins, with which she walked seven limes round the
pyre.

Stopping near the entrance of the bower,

she addressed the

fire,

and worshipped the other

scribed in the Sutty-ved: then setting

skirts of her robe, to

nating the sacred

the bower,

up

pile,

away

she threw

hair,

and the

the torch, rushed

into

me

The musicians immediately

drown the

the loudest strains, to

then present, assured

her.

cries

But

of the victim,

several

spectators

the serenity of her countenance,

nity of her behaviour, surpassed

had ever witnessed.

all

and dig-

the sacrifices of a similar na-

was invited

which look place within twelve miles of

now

to her

and embracing her husband, thus communicated the

should her courage have forsaken

ture they

fire

deities, as pre-

render herself the only brand worthy of illumi-

flames to the surrounding branches.

struck

for the last time

my

to

this

cremation,

residence,

and

am

sorry I did not attend so extraordinary an immolation.

The widow of Hiroo walked seven

times round the funeral

S26
pile;

some Hindoo females only encompass

may be
the

find

But

other exceptions.

in ancient

it

thrice:

and modern

and there
historj'

numbers seven and three generally considered

number

sacred; the former

the Greeks and

Oi

Romans
h

rjJi; itsf)

Mu{i[i.sv

" They

is

most common

in scripture;

to

we
be

among

the latter prevails, especially at funerals.

vexfov euVpt^aj- r>.o.na.v iidta;

Homer.

r
Ji.

drive their horses thrice about the dead

" Lamenting."

Ter circum aecensos

cincti fulgentibus armis

Decurrere rogos,

moestum

ter

funeris

ignem

Vikg.

Lustravere in equis, ululatusque ore dedere.

Well-arm'd, thrice round the

Thrice round

it

pile

they march'd on foot,

rode, and with a dismal shout

Survey' d the rolling flames.

The character and conduct of

cites

the

young Hindoo widow ex-

our admiration and claims our pity;

for

although we

may

admire the heroism, we must pity a female, biassed by a wrong

education, and influenced by a false religion, to
sacrifice.

Christianity

make

would have regulated her

this

dreadful

affections,

taught her the delights of resignation, the necessity of

have

fulfilling

her relative duties to society, and especially those implanted in the

We

maternal bosom.

gaze for a

moment on

the Asiatic meteor;

admiration and esteem accompany our judgment

the fortitude

Sevigne,

and active

the late

virtues of

Lady

in

Russell,

contemplating

Madame

de

Marchioness of Tavistock, and other eminent

females in Europe.

327
" Woman,
The

fitful

the sweet enchantress

given to cheer

struggles of our passage here;

In pity to our sorows, sent to show

The

earlier joys

With matron
Her

of Paradise below;

matron duty, pour

love, and

gentle influence on our evening hour,

When

the world-wearied spirit longs to rest

throbbing temples on her sheltering breast.

Its

Woman, whose
Can wrap

With

tear,

whose glance, whose touch, whose

us in despair, or ecstasy

untold hope, and passion's nameless

Refine our raptures, bid our cares be

With Love's sweet

Bid

in

arts,

sigh,

thrill,

still

the gloom of

Woe

dispel,

our breast returning transport swell

Cling round our soul, the rising fiend destroy,

And

Anon.

lead to Virtue, by the path of Joy."

The Indian women,

their peculiar virtues;

especially the high castes of Hindoos, have

delicate, retired,

On

and feminine.

the pre-

sent journey, not only in the English districts, but those belonging
to other governments, the

ourselves, our servants,

butter,

women drew

and

cattle,

milk, vegetables, fruit,

may be reckoned
purgunnas

in their general

tory

while others presented us with

However shy they

flowers.

deportment

to strangers, in

my

have often known them to exceed these stated duties

of hospitality; and have seen a

illustrate the

and

water at the public wells for

woman

of no

mean

conduct of an unfortunate princess

where, "

in her brother

Tamar

took flour and kneaded

rank, literally

in the

it,

Jewish

his-

and made cakes

Amnon's house; and did bake the cakes, and took

a pan, and poured them out before him.

unto her, bring the meat that

may

And

eat of thine

her brother said

hand

and Tamar

328
Look the cakes which she had made, and brought them to

Amnon

her brother."

Such was the simplicity of royalty

domestic conduct

in

in

former ages; such the

a princess of the house of David.

Homer

in-

troduces a lady of equal rank, engaged in an occupation which in

Europe would be thought very degrading; but

is

not beneath the

dignity of the brahmin female at this day.

"

When

lo

they met, beside a crystal spring,

" The daughter of Antiphates,

" She
"

the king

to Artacia's silver streams

came down,

Artacia's streams alone supply the

town

" The damsel they approach."

However decidedly some

women,
or

it is

difficult to

travellers

especially

their real

Mahomedans.

the subject,

visit

among

The

medical

and enumerating

ance was not confined

quested a

write on the Asiatic

the former.

have

Cambay, and

princes openly consulted

and imaginary complaints; they generally en-

tertain a high opinion of their

upon

may

physicians sent for to the durbar at

the palaces of other

them on

Odyssey.

form a correct portrait of the high Mogul

Hindoo female character;

known English

(for

to

skill,

their disorders.

the male sex

an interview

are fond of conversing

it

Their attend-

the ladies generally re-

cannot be called)

in

the

haram; whither the physician was conducted by eunuchs and

duennas, and attended a patient for
seeing her.

On

days,

without ever

entering the ladies' apartments, he was led into a

saloon, separated from

falling

many

the interior

from the ceiling

to the

chambers by a thick curtain,

floor,

the whole breadth of the

329
room;

this curtain

has a small aperture in the centre, like those

in front of a theatre,

through which the patient puts her arm, that

the physician might feel

the pulse,

and form some

sort

of con-

clusion for a prescription: but he was not permitted any further

intercourse with these secluded ladies.

In describing the Indian

Mahomedans on another

occasion, I

gave the sentiments of a very intelligent writer on those in the

Nizam's country: what he says on the female character

class of oriental society,

is

is

" In

too pertinent to be omilled.

one circumstance likely to

strike the curious

reader,

namely, that refinement of manners should be

among

a people whose customs entirely preclude

any participation
vailed in

Europe

mankind

that

women from

more amiable

pre-

are chiefly indebted for the im-

provement of ferocious and uncouth manners

society of the

found

As a popular opinion has long

in society.

re-

Mahomedan

tracing the various subjects of a cursory sketch of

manners, there

that

in

sex,

to

the endearing

as well as to the

refinement

arising from the introduction of chivalry; yet, in contradiction to

this

unknown

chivalry are

the

we

supposition,

Mahomedan

learn
in

from history that the institutions of

India, or in the countries from

conquerors of India originated.

We

whence

also

know

from the same source, that the exclusion of women from the mixed
society of

men, obtained more or

tion of the

Mahomedan

less in

Asia prior to the introduc-

Indeed, though the

religion.

Mahomedan

doctrine has been supposed extremely adverse to the fair sex by

Europeans,
liarly

it

will

be found that the

women

of Arabia are pecu-

indebted to the precepts of the Koran for the abolition of a

horrid custom, then prevalent

vol. in.

among
2

the Arabs,

of frequently

330
condemning to death

And

of war.

here

it

their

female offspring, as useless for the purposes

may not be

extraneous

make some mention

to

of a relioion whose dictates have caused so extraordinary a separation

in

society

between the two sexes; an

singular, as arising from the lucubrations of a

man whose

placed the eternal happiness of the Faithful

to the sex

the

institution

more

devotion

in the per-

petual enjoyment of bliss in the arms of celestial beauties; who,

condemned

like their mortal sisters, are equally

next world; where

girls

Mahomed

to retirement in the

represents the charming black-eyed

of Paradise to be created of pure musk, and possessing the most

rigid sentiments of modesty, as secluded from the rest of the heavenly

host in sacred groves, or enshrined in pavilions of hollow pearl of vast

Though

extent.
Ai/iih,

this

indeed particularly alludes to the

or Llouree, an immortal race created for the solace of true

many

believers; yet to prove, with

that

Hur Al

women have

other passages of the Koran,

not been banished these celestial abodes, the

Faithful are permitted to send for their former loves; who, clothed
in robes of
will

heavenly texture, and crowned with resplendent pearls,

wander

in the fragrant

bowers of Paradise, enjoying the un-

fading bloom of eternal youth.

But, to descend from the extatic

raptures of the amorous prophet to his earthly institutions,

in

the

Mahomedan mode

ambitious founder.

new and

human

of

Designing

life,

partly trace

we may,

the views of

his disciples for the founders

its

of a

splendid empire, he wished the whole energy of the

soul to

be collected

in that

one great design; and

that,

inspired with enthusiasm, his followers might, without interruption,

pursue a steady course in the arduous and dangerous paths of

politics

and war.

Yet the strong impulse of nature warned the

331
Prophet, like a secret monitor, that intellectual food alone was in-

compounded of

sufficient for beings

of

this,

he only followed, without knowing

Epicurus, and Aristotle, by adapting

his

soul and body.

own temperament and

inclinations.

his

it,

the

Convinced

example of Zeno,

system and religion to

Love and dominion were

the passions of the Prophet, so he determined they should go

in

hand

and resolved

that the diet

and beverage of

hand

his disciples

should neither impair the vigour of the body nor the faculties of

mind.

the

But,

as

the

frailty

of

human

nature had ordained

repose both to the statesman and hero, he contrived that the

allurements of pleasure should not interrupt the hours of business,

and that women should be the solace of mankind only

in the

hours of retirement and relaxation, without superadding to the

toils

of public

lover.

life

the anxiety and perturbation of the absent

For, however dull and inanimate society

may appear

to the

votaries of pleasure, deprived of this genial source of all our delights,

yet the philosopher and statesman, viewing pleasure as a secondary

motive,

may

think the exclusion of

cold system of wisdom and policy,

women an advantage

Nam

fuit ante

to the

Helenam

belli

teterrima causa amor; which the subsequent ages of the world have,

and do confirm/'

From Brodera and Meah Gaum, we

the Jamboseer and

travelled westward, through

Ahmood purgunnas: having

those districts and their respective capitals,

subject.

already described

I shall

not resume the

Almost every part of the Brodera purgunna evinced

former beauty,

in topes

of

mango and tamarind

trees, tastefully

planted near mosques, mausoleums, and other remains of

splendor,

now

in

a state of dilapidation.

its

Mogul

The abundance of

game

and especially of wild peacocks

in this country,

lands,

astonishing: every village seems to have an appropriate

is

share of these birds in the surrounding groves.

Dhuboy

wood-

in the

districts,

There, as in the

peacocks and monkeys are protected, and allowed

an ample share of grain

in the cullies, or

The pea-

farm-yards.

fowl in other parts of the country, secluded from the haunts of

men,

no doubt, upon wild

subsist,

insects,

fruits,

and

which every where abound, especially of the coluber

reptiles,

tribe; for

although, like the rest of the species, the pea-fowl of Guzerat are
granivorous, they are also very fond of serpents, and devour them

whenever they have an opportunity.

obliged to the sahras, stork, crane, and

and aquatic

natives are

many

and animals of various

peacock contrives

And

as

still

which they

the snake devours poultry

descriptions, ten times larger than

to

more

other graminivorous

birds, for the destruction of those enemies,

swallow with great avidity.

the

The

itself,

so

swallow a serpent of almost incredible

magnitude; even the cobra-di-capello, and others of a poisonous

nature.

The
as in

common in Guzerat
At Dhuboy they were of the

cobra-di-capcllo, or coluber naja,

many

largest size,

parts of Hindostan.

is

as

and generally of a paler colour than those

in

the

Concan, occasioned perhaps by the contrast: the hood of those in

Guzerat appears more

the spectacles

The hood

is

This faculty

more

brilliant,

and the black and white marks

distinct than in the darker

in

kind at Bombay.

dilatable to a great degree, at the pleasure of the animal.

is

occasioned by the length of the bony rays proceed-

ing from the sides of the vertebras in that part; and which, assisted

by proper muscles, enable

the snake to extend the skin of the

333
neck

to

a large flattened surface or hood; generally spotted, like

the rest of the body, with brown, except those black and

marks, resembling a pair of spectacles

tained

it

the

name of the

in

white

shape, which has ob-

spectacle-snake.

Like most other serpents, the cobra-di-capcllo has the power

who

of fascinating small birds;

actually drop into

from

its

their insidious

mouth, or

enemy.

lose the
I

skins of these serpents, perfect,

and thick bushes,

either hover over

until

it,

power of motion

they

to escape

have frequently found very large

and of great beauty,

in different parts

in caverns

of India; particularly in the

caves of Salsette and Elephanta, where they are very abundant.

In Mr. Boag's account of the serpents at
that Gmelin's

Bombay,

it

appears

Systema Naturae describes two hundred and nine-

teen different kinds of snakes, of which, according to Linnreus, only

one
to

in ten are

poisonous; and that

many

man, though they may be destructive

of these are not poisonous

to lesser animals.

be depended on,

"

The

most certain indication

to

or fangs fixed in the

upper jaw, which are commonly two

the large canine teeth

in

These teeth are covered with a

number, but sometimes more.

membranous

is

sheath, and are crooked, moveable, and hollow, to

give passage to the venom, which they receive from a small reservoir that runs along the palate of the

the

body of each

fang.

quantity of venom, which

This
is

mouth, and passes through

reservoir

contains only a small

forced out of

it

when

the animal

attempts to bile by a strong muscle fixed in the upper jaw for

that purpose.

It

has been well observed by Linnaeus, that if

nature has thrown them naked on the ground, destitute of limbs,

334
and exposed

to every misery, she has in return supplied

a deadly poison, ihe most terrible of

"

On

teeth

all

weapons!

procuring a large cobra-di-capello with the venomous

and poison-bag

entire,

it

was made

the hind leg, for which no medicine was

upon being

howled violently

bit

limb soon became paralytic;

and convulsed;

in thirteen

made

a young dog in

use

minutes the dog lay senseless

A dog

minutes he was dead.

plunged into a warm

The wound was

caustic, while

scarified,

some of

it

was previously
other.

when he was

and washed with the solution of lunar

was poured down

The dog

his throat.

symptoms

After an interval of one day, the same snake was

in the

of a

bath prepared on purpose.

nitre

died in the same time, and with the same

young puppy

The dog

of.

a few minutes; the wounded

for

in ten

to bile

smaller size, and younger, was bitten in the hind leg,

instantly

them with

as the former.

made

to bite

hind leg; but above the part bitten a ligature

tied: the

wound was

scarified

and treated

as the

This dog did not seem to feel any other injury than that

arising from the ligature

bitten the ligature

round

his leg.

Half an hour

after being-

and dressing were removed: the dog soon began

to sink, breathed quick, grew convulsed, and died.

" The symptoms which arise from the bile of a serpent, are com-

monly
ness,

and redness

pain, swelling,

with

sickness

at

the

in the part bitten; great faint-

stomach, and

sometimes vomiting,

succeed: the breathing becomes short and laborious, the pulse

low, quick, and interrupted.

becomes

livid,

black,

The wound, which was

and gangrenous; the

at

skin of the

first

red,

wounded

limb, and sometimes of the whole body, takes a yellow hue; cold

oax
ooo
sweats and convulsions

come on; and

the patient sinks, sometimes

few hours, but commonly at the end of two, three, or four

in a
clays.

This

is

usual

the

progress

but happily the patient

fatally;

will

which should moderate the

reflection

be bitten by snakes; and which,

at

when

terminates

the disease

most commonly recover.

fears of those

any

who happen

to

much

as

rate, should, as

possible, be resisted; as the depressing passion of fear will in all

cases assist the operation of the poison."

Fear doubtlessly operates powerfuIlj

sight of these

magnitude.

venomous

Many

serpents,

onmen and

especially

animals at the

those of superior

of the Hindoos, discarding fear, seem to behold

them with veneration and

They

love.

are, as already

mentioned,

the protectors of their treasure, the object of adoration in their

temples, and most probably the receptacle of some favoured souls

in

the metempsychosis.

serpent

is,

singular

in

With them,

as

among

the ancients, the

a high degree, figurative and symbolical.

properties

wonderful than

its

render

it

peculiarly

interesting;

power of charming the unwary

in the cobra-di-capello),

by fixing

its

brilliant

many

Its

none more

birds (as instanced)

eyes on the intended

prey, until the terrified flutterev actually runs into

its

Open mouth.

Paley, in his Natural Theology, marking the attention of the

Creator to the three great kingdoms in the animal creation, quadrupeds, birds, and fishes, and to their constitution as such, introduces
the fang of a poisonous serpent as a clear and curious example of

mechanical contrivance in the great Author of nature.

perforated tooth, loose at the root; in
flat

its

It

quiet state lying

is

down

upon the jaw, but furnished with a muscle, which, with a jerk,

and by

the pluck, as

it

were, of a string, suddenly erects

it.

Under

336
the tooth, close to

root,

its

and communicating with the perfora-

tion, lies a small bag, containing the

jaw presses

raised the closing of the

neath;

and the force of

this

venom.

its

When

the fang

is

root against the bag under-

compression sends out the

fluid

with a considerable impetus through the tube in the middle of the

What more

tooth.

unequivocal, or effectual apparatus could be

devised for the double purpose of at once inflicting the wound,

and injecting the poison? Yet, though lodged

so constituted, as, in

its

inoffensive

in the

and quiescent

interfere with the animal's ordinary office of receiving

mouth,

slate,
its

it is

not to

food.

It

has been observed also, that none of the harmless serpents have
these fangs, but teeth of an equal size; not moveable, as this

is,

but fixed into the jaw.

I believe very

in

few of the water-snakes have these fangs, or are

any degree venomous.

In

this

family

is

a great variety

some

very large, especially those in soundings on the Malabar coast.

Many

in

the Guzerat lakes are of beautiful colours;

predatory pursuits are extremely curious.

lizards,

young ducks, water

on the leaves of the

and

rats,

lotus, or sporting

the frogs,

on the margin of a lake,

at a favourable opportunity seize their prey,

selves.

their

and other animals, when reposing

whole, though often of a circumference

fowl,

They watch

and

much

and swallow

it

larger than them-

These, in their turn, become food to the larger aquatic

which frequent the lakes; who also swallow them, and

contents, entire: thus

only gulps

down

existing in

its

it

sometimes happens that a large duck not

the living serpent, but one of

maw.

their

its

own brood

still

Standing with some friends on the side of a

tank, watching the manoeuvres of these animals,

we saw a Muscovy

337
drake swallow a large snake, which had just before gorged

The drake came on

with a living prey.

self in getting

down

bird's

troublesome guest.

It is therefore

The

neclion.

same time

alive at the

in

this

How

much

frequently found within the

is

long the frog continues alive within the

and the serpent within the

digestive faculties of the

ostrich swallows

its

singular con-

serpent swallows small animals alive without

snake's stomach.

The

some hours

most probable there were three

suction or bruising, and a living frog

serpent,

for

craw; who seemed rather uneasy at

working within the

different creatures

shore to exercise him-

which continued

the snake,

itself

cannot say, as the

bird, I

stomach may vary

in different animals.

and similar substances; the

stones, iron,

shark voraciously devours carpenters' tools, pieces of wood, claspknives,

and thick

ropes, that fall from the ship; the peacocks

aquatic fowl of Guzerat prey upon living serpents, and

reptiles of every description.

mentioned

this

Good Mope.

Barrow

small

propensity in the

falco serpen tarius, or secretary-bird, in the menagerie at the

of

Cape

a very curious circumstance

relates

and

re-

specting living serpents in the stomach of one of these birds after

its

death, which puts the matter

gentleman, who held an

beyond

official

all

doubt.

situation at

Hope, being out on a shooting parly,

the

"

An

English

Cape of Good

killed a secretary-bird,

which

he carried home with the intention of having an accurate drawing

made from

it.

He

house; where, after

threw
it

it

on the

floor

of the balcony near the

had remained some time, and been examined

and tossed about, one of the company observed the head of a

large

snake

crawled,

pushing open the

in perfect vigour,

VOL. III.

and

bill;

from any injury.

free
2

out of which

it

On

speedily

the suppo-

aa

38

sition

that others might

pended by the
large

when

and

legs,

still

be

stomach, the bird was sus-

in the

and presently a second made its appearance, as

as lively as the

The

first

was afterwards opened,

bird

the stomach was found to contain several

dead snakes, with

a half-digested mass of lizards, scorpions, scolopcndrse, centipedes,

and

beetles."

The

little district

Meah Gaum Rajah

belonging to the

neither novelty nor interest; but on entering the

gunna, which had then been several years

sion,

we observed

Jamboseer pur-

company's posses-

a visible alteration in the agriculture, population,

and cheerfulness of the

dant, as are so

in the

afforded

many

villages: for fertile, beautiful,

and abun-

parts of the Brodera pergunna, yet

villages are depopulated,

numerous

and the surrounding country a

desert,

from the oppressive government of Futty Sihng, and the cruel

and Gracias.

irruptions of the Bheels

In one considerable tract

near the confines of the Brodera district we witnessed a mournful

scene, occasioned by a different scourge: a flight of locusts had

some lime before alighted

in that part

of the country, and

behind them an awful and striking contrast

of this earthly paradise.
realized.

**

The sad

to the general

description of

That which the palmer-worm hath

eaten; and that which the locust hath

left,

tree; they

They have

have made

it

laid waste

tree,

even

ye husbandmen!

all

hath the locust

left,

hath the cater-

the vine, and barked the

tree,

the

palm

tree also,

the trees of the field are withered.

for

literally

fig-

clean bare, and the branches thereof are

madfe white: the pomegranate

apple

left,

beauty

hath the canker-worm

eaten; and that which the canker- worm hath

pillar eaten.

Hosea was

left

the

wheat and

for the barley;

and the
Howl,

because the

harvest of the field

39
Plow do the beasts groan!

perished.

is

the

herds of cattle are perplexed, because they have no pasture; yea,

the flocks of sheep are

am no

judge of

can

neither

of locusts:
peasants.

made

desolate!"
distinction

this

discriminate the
are

all

different

varieties

especially

among

creeping-leaf.

mantis,

the

in

this excursion,

we saw many

and papilio

cicada,

The tough
had

sugar-canes,

fallen

The madhuca,

luxuriant

or

mowah

mowah

by

This pernicious

villages.

the Indian princes

a similar mischief

in

trees did not

tree,

abounds

distillery is

classes of society.

In Brodera they also

India from time immemorial.

to

distilled

encouraged

distil

among

a strong
it

like

Sir William

eera.

spirit

from

known

Jones proves the

have been promulgated at

years before the Christian

the lower

produces.

Sugar, and spirits distilled from sugar, have been

Menu

in this

a more civilized country, the deleterious

the sugar cane, and the molasses, or jaggaree,

tutes of

is

escape

on account of the revenue; although,

of this intoxicating spirit are too visible

effects

and

juarree,

part of Guzerat, and a great quantity of mowah-arrack

Brodera

tribes;

sacrifice to the host of locusts, in

the Brodera purgunna: even the large

in the

a host

in

those curious, but ravenous insects, called the

strongest oil-plants,

their lavage.

companies

and equally dreaded by the

destructive,

In the forest scenery on

beautiful

the caterpillar tribe;

in

least twelve

in

Insti-

hundred

Those laws particularly prohibit

spirits to the

Brahmins; whether extracted from the dregs of sugar.

from

from the flowers of the madhuca.

rice, or

In most of the Guzerat

where

travelled, are usually

villages,

and

in

every part of India

one or more potters, who manufacture

340
pots, dishes,

and other

from the argillaceous earth: these

utensils,

are turned by the wheel, with the usual simplicity of oriental

Some

artificers.

Hindoo mythology, of

the

workmen manufacture

of the superior

baked and painted,

clay,

idols, in

in imitation of

those formed of prepared rice, alabaster, and different metals,

which were annually imported

Baroche Phoorza, when

amount

a considerable

to

at the

was custom-master at that settlement;

and transported from thence

Malwa. At the Baroche Phoorza

of Guzerat and

the interior

into

frequently purchased specimens

of Ganesa, and other Hindoo deities, on a small scale, both in

rice

Dhuboy
who made me a

and alabaster: and the Brahmins

kindly superintended the silver-smith,

at

liberally
set

and

of images,

cast in tuthenaque, or chinese white copper, with the ornaments

and

utensils of the temple, in gold

particular part of the bed of the

and

silver,

of a reduced

Nerbudda, not

from Chan-

far

dode, as also some places at a greater distance in that

famous

for

producing stones exactly resembling the

priated for the worship of Seva.

They

by the action of the water, and on

particularly holy

The

by the brahmins

river,

idol

were

appro-

are formed into this shape

that

account are deemed

in the sect of Seva.

general velocity of the Nerbudda, where the stream

narrow channel, occasions the

fined to a

size.

is

con-

friction of the stones to

produce a great variety of forms, consequently some of the shape

alluded

Those are

to.

river, for its

mud,

all

produced

in

the upper parts of the

bed, in the Baroche and Zinore districts,

clay, or sand; not the smallest pebble

Like most

rivers in

in the rainy season,

is

to

is

be met with.

Hindostan, the Nerbudda overflows

when

its

limits are confined;

entirely of

its

banks

a number of large

341
and animals are then brought clown by the floods from the

trees

mountains: some of the former different from those

The Nerbudda seldom occasions

Guzerat.

in the plains

mischief;

of

the over-

flowing streams of the Dahder, and some of the smaller rivers,

frequently produce dreadful calamities within a few miles of their
fertile

which

rain

These floods seem

banks.

mountain

falls

on the

torrents.

plains,

be very

to

little

influenced by the

they are always occasioned by

There cerlainly

is

not so great a

fall

of rain

during the wet season in Guzerat as on the island of Bombay,

and the southern parts of the Malabar coast; where the periodical
rains generally

commence and

terminate at the same period, as

The

experienced at Surat and Baroche.

setting in

we

of the rain,

with the south-west monsoon, usually takes place before the middle

of June, and continues, with more or

less violence,

and unequal

of rain, for about four months: the largest quantity always

July.

From

the island of

a calculation

Bombay,

made and

published,

it

for eight successive years,

falls in

appears that on

from 1780, the

general average of rain in July, was twenty-two inches, and

most that
rain

which

tained,

fell

in

fell

in

may

10 to 20

any one day was

six inches.

falls

the

The quantity of

each of those years at Bombay, being thus ascer-

serve as an estimate for ten degrees of latitude, from

on the west side of the Gaut mountains.

342
Inches.

From July

4th, to

October 14th,

1780

53 4

1781

71 5

1782

51 8

1783

73

1784

47 5

From June

14th, to

From May

28th, to October 5th,

From June

1st, to

From June

6'th,

From May

29th, to October 27th,

1785

70 2

From June
From June

12th, to

October 12th,

1786

74

11th, to

October 12th, 1787

to

October 14th,

October 4th,

October 6th,

General average

70 4
63 96

(ftr;

r^

it* r

'

<-

,*

,4?

^J
^

flo' *>

; ;

CHAPTER

XXXIV.

PRESENTATION OF BAROCHE AND

VALUABLE

ITS

DISTRICTS TO MHADAJEE SINDIA;

AND THE OTHER ENGLISH PURGUNNAS

IN GUZERAT TO THE MAHRATTA GOVERNMENT;
AND FINAL DEPARTURE OF THE COMPANY'S
SERVANTS AND GARRISONS FROM

CESSION OF DIIUBOY,

THOSE ESTABLISHMENTS.
1783.

"

"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"

Liberty

Profuse of

bliss,

thou goddess, heavenly bright,

and pregnant with delight

Eternal pleasures in thy presence reign,

And

smiling

Plenty

leads thy

wanton

train;

Eas'd of her load Subjection grows more light,

And Poverty looks cheerful in thy sight

Thou mak'st the gloomy face of Nature gay,
Giv'st beauty to zhe sun, and pleasure to the day
'Tis

Liberty

And makes

that crowns Britannia's

isle,

her barren rocks, and her bleak mountains smile."

ADDitas.

CONTENTS.
Cession of Baroche, Dhuboy, and the English purgunnas in Guzerat,

Mahrattas and Mahdajee Sindia, at

the

to

of Mahdajee Sindia' s family

rise

macy of
Jeajee

that chieftain

elevation

in the

dissensions in

Mahratta

the family

Mahdajee Sindia

of

1783

the peace in

by

state

illegiti-

assassination of

Mahdarow

chosen
Mah-

mediator of the treaty of peace between the English and

rattas in

for

1783

the city

this service

the Mahrattas

to

district

sorrow of
up

it

to the

from

letters

behaviour of the inhabitants of

restored to the

in

peculiarity of the

Dhuboy was

to

his non-arrival

lotos

have been delivered up

dissuasion

the

to

the

their

the

and

divinations

the elders of

III.

being

and

to

beauty

day on which

my

threats

the happiness of the English government,

its

Mahratta pundit

of the brahmins from

the

VOL.

of

noble

images brought

events of

reasons assigned for

conduct
Gracias themantra, and
buscade of
brahmins paper presented by
by

boy

of India

a temple erected for their reception

nymphea

their

these

the report

present of Hindoo

Mahrattas

England, and placed

different natives

Dhuboy on

and

facts
England instances of

Mahratta governor
in

him

to

be surrendered to

to

the inhabitants of Baroche,

former ill-founded prejudices

oriental gratitude

and

of Baroche presented

Dhuboy and Zinore ordered

behaviour on giving

opposed

and

leaving

Dhu-

intituled

am-

communicated

Dhuboy, stating

their misery at its


adof

conGracia soothsayers arrangements

of

written on
sequence departure from Dhuboy
murder
Gracias on my
proceed
Baroche attack of
being withdrawn

reasons

in

the occasion

lines

plunder
cade

escort

the

to

of the cavalry

officer,

servant,

and attendants

funeral processions my narrow

conduct of

behaviour of the

the

relations

Mahomedan women

of poisoning their prisoners

body and the mind

thirst

poisons

effects- sheep-skin

another scheme of

effects

among

death

further

escape

from

cruelty
the

of the murdered people

of the Gracias, had they succeeded in

of my

the

translation

it

the

divination

dress

for inserting

on such occasions

my

capture

and

ambus-

general

intentions

various modes

of deleterious drugs on the

recovery of part
consequence death by

the ancients

anecdote

in

the Gracias frustrated

remarks on a particular Providence.

oriental sorceries

CHAPTER

now

dia;

upon

the painful subject of

was written from Bombay

it

when

enter

XXXIV.

had taken a

final leave

interesting scenes in Guzerat.

at the

my

last letter

from In-

end of the year 1783,

of Baroche, Dhuboy, and

They then no

all

the

longer belonged to

the English; the British flag, the security of liberty and property
in that delightful province, no

more waved on her ramparts, and

the peasants on her luxuriant plains were abandoned to Mahratta

despotism. Ill-fated people,

who

only experienced the mildness of

our laws, and tasted the sweets of freedom, to find the cup of slavery

more

bitter

I shall not discuss the oriental politics at that period.

East India

Company had been engaged

The

for several years in

an

expensive war with the Mahrattas and Hyder Ally Khan, the two

most formidable powers

the

in

Hindostan.

In the beginning of 1783

Supreme government of Bengal concluded a peace with the

peshwa of the Mahrattas, through the mediation of Mhadajee

Sindia, one of the great sirdars, or chieftains, of the empire; a

whose

rise

in

life

was so extraordinary

as to

man

merit a particular

recital.

When Bajee-Row became

peshwa, as particularly mentioned

348
in the

account of theMahrattas, he employed

Chimnajee Appa,

in

affairs

his

younger brother,

of the greatest importance, for the

Rajah Saou Bhousela, the nominal sovereign of the Mahraltas:

armies were intrusted to his

Concan, with

command

and the country of the

the castles below the Gauls, which, under the

all

Mogul emperors, had been governed by

the Abyssinian

Khan, was submitted

while

to

direction:

his

vested

Yacoot

with

this

authority he conquered Bassein from the Portugueze.

Chimnajee, at

who

afterwards

Bajee-Row

his death, left

became

also

dying,

Nanna, succeeded
terial

better
his

one son, named Sudasew Row,

known by
son

the appellation of Bhaou.

Ballejee-Row,

his father in the full possession of all his minis-

powers, as peshwa, while his cousin

obscurity.

had been

Ramchunder Baba, a brahmin

Bhaou remained

of great abilities,

closely connected with Chimnajee,

fortune of his son.

in

who

saw and lamented the

Influenced by his feelings, he waited on the

Rajah Saou Bhonsela, and by

his representations to that prince,

procured a mandate, ordaining that

direction of his affairs, in the

Nana

manner of

should have the supreme

his father

and that Bhaou should enjoy powers under him,

Chimnajee: conformable
his

generally called

to this

resolution,

Badjee Row,

similar to those of

the rajah confirmed

appointment of the two cousins by a sirpaw

to

each; from

which lime Nana was considered as head purd/uui, and Bliadu as

dewan.
After this event a long interval

Nana behaved
new

associate,

elapsed, in

which,

though

with the greatest circumspection and civility to his

yet

Bhaou's elevation,

Ramchunder, who had been the cause of

saw and dreaded latent jealousy: to evade the

349
consequences of which, he constantly insisted with Bhaou on the

new and powerful

necessity of forming a

by

the

men

promotion of new

must

prospects

to

interest in the

army,

command, whose hopes and

on him alone; since no reliance could be

rest

placed on chieftains grown old in authority, and haughty from a

Bhaou

habit of commanding.
ing,

and

the force of his friend's reason-

Row

of his plan selected Malhar

the prosecution

in

felt

Holear, a silledar, or soldier of fortune; who, with a high reputabesides only his horse and sword, and with

tion, possessed

Ranojee Sindia, who commanded a few horse.

esteemed excellent
with small

gaged on
territorial

all

They were both

and had been occasionally intrusted

soldiers,

commands during

the administration of the late peshw'a,

Mutual agreements were entered

Badjee-Row.

him

into;

Bhaou en-

occasions to procure for them an additional extent of

government, and

pledged themselves

support

to

increase their forces, while they

to

his influence, as the origin

of their

good fortune.
Great part of the extensive province of Malwa was shortly
after allotted

value

were

to

them

Jaghire; while some districts of inferior

in

conferred

on

Povvar,

amongst the Mahraltas.

No

power of Bhaou's new

friends;

tories of the

very

respectable

opportunity was

of adding

to the

and Bhilseh, with the other

terri-

lost

Mogul, which, by the death of Dost

Khan, and Yas Mahommed,

chieftain

fell

Mahommed

into the hands of the Mahrattas,

were added to their government.

After a long time spent in this manner, Ranojee Sindia died,

and was succeeded

in his

Jaghire by his son Jeajee Appa,

had two brothers, one named Dulajee

who

Palell, the other Tucojee:

350
the former

was admitted by Jeajee

but Tucojee dying,

had

also

left

to

a son named Kedrajee.

Mhadajee Sindia.
is

As among

better

name was

known by

that of

the Hindoos the offspring of a bond-

not held in equal esteem, nor admitted to inheritance

with the legitimate children, so was this young

all

Ranojee Sindia

a son by a butkee, or bond-woman, whose

Mahdarao, but who has since become

woman

a participation of power;

man excluded from

share in his father's estate: insomuch that he was driven to the

necessity of serving in the armies of Bhaou, his father's patron, as

a yeke sonar too shinas, which signifies a cavalier admitted to the

acquaintance of the

chief.

When MJiavajah
nephew, Ram Sihng,
who during

the

life

Buckt Sihng, rajah of Marwar, died,

his

son of Rarah AbJie Sihng, his elder brother,

of his uncle had

pretensions, openly aspired

not entirely concealed his

to the rajahship,

and raised an army

to support his claims against his cousin, Bejee Sihng, the son

successor of the late rajah.

Hostilities

and

between these competitors

two years with great animosity, when Jeajee Appa,

had subsisted

for

on

from Shah-Jehanabad towards Malwa, passed near

his return

Marwar, and gave

Ram

Sihng an opportunity of procuring a

in

which, notwithstanding the large offers of Bejee Sihng,

he

solicited

and obtained Jeajee's assistance; who upbraided Be-

jee

Sihng with his father having deprived

meeting;

his elder brother's

son

of his inheri lance; since, according to the custom of the Hindoos, an hereditary government devolved in course to the eldest

branch.

Thus

reinforced,

Ram

Sihng renewed the contest with vigour;

the whole open country was reduced to his authority, and

all

ap-

351
pointments were established in his name; while Bejee Si/mg, confined to the strong hold of Merut,

that a

pound of

salt

was not procurable

standing which, he refused

Jeajee;

all

his

cousin,

Sihng's answer
rajpoot, that

one rupee, notwith-

for

division of the country

between

and on receiving an acknowledgement

own

the expenses of his

for provisions,

terms of accommodation offered by

who proposed an equal

him and

was so straitened

troops, to desist from

all hostilities.

was constantly and uniformly

he possessed no treasure but

his

Bejee

that he was a

this,

sword

for

with which,

while he lived, he would defend himself.

The war being

thus protracted

Sihng perceiving no end

for

distresses,

to his

three

and Bejee

years,

had recourse

to the ser-

vices of a set of people called Ghaouleh, inhabitants of that country,

who

hold lands free of

all

tribute

and

on condition

taxation,

of devoting themselves to their sovereign's commands,

upon

to execute the

with them, when

effects,

and take a

most desperate

summoned

acts; so that

to his presence,

last farewell

fail

is

customary

bequeath

to

called

their

of their friends, as though they were

never to return; and, under the influence of

fanaticism, they seldom

it

when

to effect the

this

extraordinary

most hazardous enter-

prises.

Five of these Ghaouleh were dispatched to the

camp

of Jeajee;

access to the chieftwo, in the character of public envoys, had free

tent; one personated a musician, and by his skill gained adtain's

mission to an intimate knowledge of

all

the officers of the house-

of byragees, a tribe
hold; while the remaining two, in the disguise
employed in proof religious Hindoo mendicants, were diligently

35%
curing intelligence, and watching a favourable opportunity to effect
the purpose of their mission.

On

cording to the Hindoo

rites,

was seated

Those ceremonies of access,

tent.

Moguls,

the

are

very

much

fictitious

ablutions, ac-

among

by

Mahrattas;

the

and place themselves

envoys,

audience-

punctiliously observed

so

whose attendants are frequently

happened with the

his

in his durbar, or

neglected

strangers can easily introduce,

chief,

performed

a certain day, Jeajee having

Thus

a distance.

at

who

close to the
it

seizing the opportunity

of Jeajee being alone, entered the tent, and advancing near him,
with the utmost humility entered into a detail of their master's distresses,

He

endeavouring at the same time

replied, that Bajee Sih/ig

still

proudly depended on

of Merut, Joodpore, and Nagore,

from him. and then

One

treat

their

to soften Jeajee's

all

enmity.

his castles

of which he would take

master accordino- to

his deserts.

of the envoys, increasing his show of humility, advanced

nearer; when, suddenly seizing Jeajee

by

the neck, he

drew

still

his

dagger, and giving him three mortal wounds, exclaimed at each

blow, " this

is

groaned and

fell;

sion ensued,

many

Merut,

this

is

Joodpore,

made
The

his

Jeajee

persons were slain.

But

among

it

the

has never been as-

number, or whether

escape during the general consternation.

noise

occasioned

brought Dutajee,
still

Nagore!"

the servants, alarmed, ran to the place; confu-

certained whether the assassin was

he

this is

by

this

extraordinary

circumstance,

Jeajee's brother, to the durbar-tent.

breathing; and

Jeajee was

with great difficulty was able to utter a few

words, advising him immediately to provide against an attack

353
from Bejee Sihng, and exhorting

engagements he had made

his

endeavours

to

bring his

to

his

support

affairs to

brother never to break the

Ram

nor desist from

Siting,

a happy termination, he ex-

pired.

Dutajee, renowned for courage, instantly gave orders for

cavalry to

mount

and marching from

his

his

camp, he found Bejee

Sihno advancing to take advantage of the confusion occasioned

-

by

his emissaries.

severe conflict ensued, in which the sword

and spear were more used than

small-arms:

artillery or

the raj-

poots under Bejee Sihng behaved with the greatest courage, and

made

several desperate

charges, so that

many

were inclined, according to their custom,

a running

to

of the Mahratlas

change the

battle to

but were prevented by the firmness of their

fight,

leader; whose fortune at length prevailed,

and Bejee Sihng

retreated slowly towards Merut.

leav-

Dutajee pursued

ing the

field,

him

near the walls, without being able, notwithstanding his ut-

most

to

break their line of march, and throw the

efforts, to

raj pools

into confusion.

Bejee Sihng having regained the

encampment, and
solating,

by

his

repeatedly

Dutajee returned to

predatory excursions and foraging parties,

At

length,

on the intelligence of

summoned from Poonah,

to join the

Mahratta army

Thus urged, he was under

proposing an accommodation between the cousins

by securing certain

towards Delhi.

VOL.

III.

the

Abdallee having entered Uindostan, Dutajee was

collected to oppose him.

effected,

his

for a long time closely invested the place, de-

whole country of Marwar.

Ahmed Shah

fort,

districts for

Ram

the necessity of
;

Sihng, he marched

Bejee Sihng, taking advantage of

2

which having

his

absence,

354
perfidiously broke the

agreement he had entered

into,

and ex-

pelled his cousin from the districts assigned him.

Dutajee, after the assassination of his elder brother Jcajce,

ordered his son Juncojee Sindia to be treated as his successor;

management of

while he look upon himself the

the

title

of dewan

but being soon after killed

his affairs,

in

the Duranies, near Delhi, the whole weight of

volved on Juncojee

who

was

also

Mahomedan

tribes,

under

action against

government de-

slain the following year, at the

great battle of Panniput, fought by the

other

under

Duranies, and several

Ahmed Shah

Abdallee, and the

Mahrattas under Sudobah, or Bhaou.

No

legitimate descendant of Ranojee Sindia

At

except Kedrajee, the son of Tucojee.

had succeeded
but

his

father

uncle Ragonath

his

Baliajee

Row

Row,

this

now remained,

time

Mhadarow

in the office of

peshwa,

had so great weight and authority

in the administration, as to give

Mhadarow

constant jealousy and

anxiety.

On

on the succession of Kedrajee,

agreed with him.

Row

Ragonath

the death of Juncojee,

in

strenuously insisted

which the whole Sindia

But Mhadarow, suspicious of the designs of

of his uncle, having heard of Mhadajee Sindia, sought

summoned him

to his presence.

Mhadajee was

after,

From

this

condition

vernment and jaghire of

Mhadarow

his family.

men, finding him patronized by

diately

advanced him money,

to

the

little

elevated him to the eo-

The

shroffs

and monied

Mahratta sovereign, imme-

take possession of his

pointment with dignity and splendour.

and

at that time lame,

from a wound received in the battle of Panniput; poor, and

known.

tribe

new ap-

355
Mhadarow had
jee Sindia, as

he shortly

Row

the

same views

Bhaou had

made

after

in the

nomination of Mhada-

in the first elevation

of the family, and

use of him to thwart his uncle Ragonalh

an expedition against Gohud; by whose means he was

in

obliged to return unsuccessful and disgraced to the Deccan.

Mhadarow made

after this transaction,

it

Soon

a plea for confining

his

uncle; and from thence forward the good fortune of Madajee

Sindia advanced with such rapidity as to give him very considerable weight in the

Baroche and

Mahratla empire; and the

dependencies, added

its

still

late

more

to

of

cession

conse-

his

quence.

So

brilliant

had the

star of his destiny

become

in 1783, that-

he was selected to be the mediator of the treaty of peace between

the English East India
this treaty,

rattas,

my

among

Mah-

the purgunnas in Guzerat ceded to the

which

was directed

to surrender

districts

under

on the 24th of

1783, to such officer as might be deputed by the Mahralta

state to receive

At

By

the Mahratla state.

were those of Dhuboy, Zinore, and the other

jurisdiction;

April

Company, and

the

them, agreeably

to the

terms of the treaty.

same time the Chief and Council of Baroche were

dered by the Governor and Council at

important city and

to deliver

valuable purgunna, to Bascar

its

forMhadajee Sindia;

Bombay

to

whom

it

up

or-

that

Row, agent

had been presented by the gover-

nor General and Supreme Council of Bengal, "

in

testimony of

the sense which they entertained of the generous conduct manifested

by the

bay, at

said

Wargaum,

ment and

Mhadajee
in

Sindia, to the government of

January 1779; and of

release of the English gentlemen,

his

humane

who had been

Bomtreatdeli-

356
vered as hostages on that occasion."

Those were the reasons

assigned by the Bengal government for making this valuable present to

Mhadajee

Sindia.

inhabitants of Baroche, accustomed to the lenity of British

The

the approaching change,

jurisdiction, execrated
arrival of

and dreaded the

Bascar Row, which had been delayed in consequence

of a mistaken renewal of hostilities on the Malabar coast; the

people of Baroche, in the

and

sacrifices,

were

left

prayers, no cere-

unperformed by the

It

is

with extreme satisfaction

feigned sorrow which pervaded

day was

Mahomedan nabob;

that awaited them.

Mahratta

extort

all

different castes,

falls

Of

recollect the un-

Baroche, before

to the

its

conquest

Moguls, and was governed by

the inhabitants well

all

ranks of society when the fatal

fixed for our departure.

by the English, had belonged

the

No

hope that

religious professions, to implore the continuance of the British

government.

time, indulged a vain

would not take place.

the intended cession

monies, no

mean

knew

the difference

oriental despots, the arbitrary

power of

perhaps with the most oppressive weight; they

money by every kind of

vexatious cruelty, without support-

ing commerce, agriculture, and the usual sources of wealth and

prosperity in well-governed states.

equally fond of money, spend

useful

On

it

The Mahomedans, although

with more liberality, encourage

and ornamental works, and patronize

art

and science.

the ninth of July 1783, the day appointed for the cession

of Baroche to Mhadajee Sindia, the chief and council received

his

agent, Bascar

theri delivered

to

ately repaired to

Row,

with proper

him the keys of

the

ceremony

in the durbar,

the city-gates.

We

and

immedi-

water side, to cross the Nerbudda in our

357
way

to Surat,

and were

While embarking on the Company's yacht, a

bitants of the city.

dark cloud passed over

friends,

by the principal inha-

silently followed

no longer able

and a shower of

us,
to

keep

silence,

rain

fell

our

afflicted

and forgetting the impend-

ing terrors of a Mahratta despot, pathetically exclaimed " these

drops are the tears of

oppose

this

Heaven

fact to

for the fate of

Baroche!"

a thousand unfounded prejudices, and

unsupported calumnies, against the English, which were once so

credited in

easily

nent stations

in

racters of all

who

Among

Europe.

similar situations at

late: the temptations of wealth

emi-

home

are not

immacu-

and power sometimes subdue the

minds; but the hour approaches when they cease to

strongest

charm,

many who occupy

some no doubt deserve censure: the cha-

India,
fill

the

and when a " conscience void of offence"

only comfort.

amenable

Whether

human

to

the

will

European or Indian peculator,

be the
is

now

laws, or not, a secret monitor corrodes every

present joy, and an unerring Judge hereafter will avenge the breach

own

of his

laws, established

opprobrium was unjust on a

teristics

in

truth

set of

and equity

The general

men, whose prevailing charac-

were philanthropy, generosity, and benevolence.

The sympathizing

tear

which accompanied the drops from

heaven on our leaving Baroche, was a public testimony that the

natives preferred the British to an Asiatic government; a love of
truth,

me

and an affectionate

also to insert^ a

few instances of private attachment and grati-

tude from individuals

Parsees, with

whom

recollection of scenes long past, impel

I so

among

the Hindoos,

long resided. They are

myself and the friend of

my

Mahomedans, and
letters

addressed to

heart, chiefly from our Indian ser-

358
vants and dependants,

on our own career of

who
life,

rose in circumstances as

tion, served us faithfully until

left

we entered

lived with us from the time

we

rose in sta-

our departure to Europe, and never

us until the ship was almost out of sight of land. I also select

two or three similar tokens of remembrance from Asiatic friends

in

a superior walk of

They

life.

all

in their original simple

which would derive no advantage from

style,

A Letter from Dowlet-Roy, Dessoy

I

am much

Mr. Corkran's
your

are

man

in a

alteration.

high station at Baroche.

obliged by your kind inquiries after me, in

letter;

was becoming your prosperity

it

notice

to

friend in adversity; for since the departure of the English,

the establishment of the Mahratla government at Baroche,

suffered very cruel

oppressions.

Mr. Corkfan, who

English gentleman of your council

who remained

kind to me, but he has no power to relieve

many
not

of the inhabitants of

live

this city

have

my

left it,

is

have

the only

here,

distress.

very

is

great

because they could

under such tyranny; and your friend Lullabhy has

fered most of

all

but

God: and Dowlet-Roy

and

suf-

depend upon the pleasure of Almighty

daily

remembers the kindness of you and

Mr. Dalton.
Baroche, \Oth December, 1784.

Letter from Jevanjee Furdonjec, a merchant at Baroche.

I

was much

obliged by your kind notice of me, through

Mr. Corkran, on your leaving

give you a long

life,

India.

and day by day

pray to

God Almighty

to increase

to

your dignity

359
that

you may be happy, and

hear of with

my

good

much

friends

rise

up

and Jevanjee

Mth December,

Letter

Dalton.

hope

You,

will find

Sir, in

He

me

to

after continuing so

favour will

my honoured master with a few

you happily

India.

left

in health, with

Mr. and Mrs.

my

That worthy gentleman

many

one short

make your

his

is

being settled here I have not

hear of your safe arrival in Europe: but

worthy master must not put

shall receive

then be happy!

tribe.

to address

though since

had the happiness

will

feet in

your great favour, recommended me to Mr.

Seton at Surat, when you

very good to

I shall

1784.

take the liberty

which

hopes to see your

still

Parsee

lines,

which

Ruttonjee, an attached domestic servant, of the

from Ecldul

his favour,

Mr. Dalton and you were always

pleasure.

India once more before he dies!

Baroche,

in

poor Eddul

far

from

my

his sight,

years in his service: and I yet hope I

letter,

to tell

me you

are

all well.

Such a

servant Eddul happy.

Surat, 31st October, 1785.

Letter from

Mahommed Khaun, an old and faithful Maliomedan servant.

Understanding from your purvoe, Cassinauth Vettojee,

that you, my worthy master, had mentioned me in your letter to him,
and
in

as Cassinauth

Europe,

is

now sending

a packet to you and Mr. Dalton

have requested him

you may accept

my

to Avrite this letter for

humblest thanks

for all

me, that

your kindness during

360
so

many

years.

am happy

Mr. and Mrs. Dalton, and

prosperity

and

you, lhat you

Bombay,

to continue

will not forget

Sorabjcc

take

Mr. Dalton's

the news of

opportunity of writing

this

As a

cannot express.

was

I afflicted

must

feel

very

medy, and time

his soul

will give

in his

child

for the

much

console his widow, your

keep

my

to

whole

life I

Sir,

much

you, because

Jt has given

but for death there

comfort to the heart.

sister, for

me

is

have

a grief

As

for

me

never can forget

it;

you,
no

re-

You must now

death, and beg of

his

place!

at

death.

death of so kind a friend

indeed

happy

are well acquainted, as

wish you,

take

doleful for the loss of his

is

kindness in every respect in assisting

during

may

Muncherjee, an eminent Parsee merchant

father, so
Sir,

and your

your old servant Mahomed.

heard the sad news of Mr. Dalton's death.

which

it

hope, wherever your good fortune

Bombay, after hearing

I

God

pray

November, 1785.

1st

Letter from

and that of

to hear of your health,

God

to

myself, such was his

as a

merchant, that

but with

all this

now

hope you

will

you and Mr. Dalton were one!

health and prosperity, and

you

ever keep a favourable sight upon your friend Sorabjee.

Bombay, 25th February, 17S7l

When

it

was publicly known that Dhuboy and

purgunnas were

to

be given up

to the

the day approached which was fixed for

its

Mahratta government, and

my

departure, a deputation

from the brahmins and principal inhabitants visited

durbar, and sincerely condoled with

dependent

me

me

on the change of

at the
affairs.

361
They

offered presents,

and were so hurt

tendered for ray acceptance, that

which

tion a gift
if

was

induced to men-

at length

could receive without conscientious scruples,

they could bestow

it,

which from delicacy alone

had not be-

Expressing some surprise, and at the same lime ma-

fore asked.

greatest desire

nifesting the

Dhuboy

any thing

at ray refusing

contained

oblige me, I told them, that as

to

many remains

of Hindoo antiquity, in broken

columns, mutilated images, and remnants of basso-relievo scattered

among
allow

dilapidated buildings in the city, I requested they would

me

to select a

which

rior fragments,

a temple

few of the smallest specimens from the exteI

their reception

for

me

would bring with

in

my own

Europe, and erect

to

Their astonish-

garden.

communication, and was followed by a

ment increased

at this

solemn

They expressed no apprehension of

silence.

their religion, but

to possess

them of

behold

in

Hindoo

idols.

to

found a

know why a
little

ridiculing

Christian wished

difficulty in

convincing

the general curiosity of Europeans, the gratification

would be
and the

seemed anxious

my

shew them those specimens of

to

delightful association of

my own

my own

country the precious

distant spot endeared

ideas,

relics

sculpture,

when

should

transported from a

by a thousand tender recollections.

Their tears flowed when they requested

hours, during

oriental

to

retire for

which they would assemble the recluse

brahmins, and in a conclave consider the

which they had ever heard

first

religious

request of the kind

They returned

of.

a few

the next morning

with countenances indicating mingled sensations of regret at

approaching departure, and of delight

to grant

my

VOL. HI.

it

at

having

it

in their

my

power

request; to which they acceded in the most liberal

3

3fr2
manner, desiring
cimens as

workmen

my own

would send

people to seleet such spe-

thought proper, and place them in a temple to Friend-

my own

ship in

country.

to collect

did

so;

and deputed some Hindoo

such small images as

pointed out in

the

dilapidated walls of forsaken dewals, and from the exterior ornain eight

groups now adorn

an octagon building at Stan more-hill, erected

for that purpose,

ments

at the

Gate of Diamonds, which

under a linden-grove on the margin of a lake profusely adorned

by the nymphea

lotos, Avhich,

when

its

snowy

petals

and expanded

by the southern breeze, reminds

foliage arc gently agitated

me

of

the sacred tanks in Guzerat.

I

have often mentioned

Knight throws a new

water,

amongst

of which

its

this

lovely flower; the intelligent

upon

light

broad leaves

it

the subject: " growing in the

puts forth a flower, in the centre

formed the seed-vessel, shaped

is

cone, and punctuated on the lop with

like a bell, or inverted

or cells, in

little cavities,

which the seeds grow to maturity, decay, and again shoot

for the orifices

out when

of these

ripe,

new

being too small to

cells

Mr.

plants germinate in

let

forth-;

the seeds drop

the places where they

were formed, the bulb of the vessel serving as a matrice to nourish

burst

them
it

until

they acquire such a degree of magnitude as to

open and

release

themselves.;

after which,

like

other

aquatic weeds, they take root wherever the current deposits them.
This plant, therefore, being thus productive of
ing from

its

own

itself,

matrice without being fostered in the earth, was

naturally adopted as the symbol of the productive

Deity upon the waters/'

poem on

and vegetat-

To

the lotos of Egypt.

this

Maurice alludes

power of the
in his beautiful

363
" Within
Long

thy

fair corolla's

full-blown bell

since th' immortals fix'd their fond abode

There

While by

his side

What

enamour' d

Isis

glow'd.

mystic treasures in thy form conceal'd.

Perpetual transport to the sage supply

Where

Nature,

in

In thy

prolific vase,

trac'd her

Among

exploring eye.

fertile seeds,

warm, from

germs shoot

lovelier

and

th'

grand regenerative powers

Life, springing

And

her deep designs reveal'd,

Awes wondering man, and charms

Are

day's bright source, Osiris, lov'd to dwell,

the groups of

forth,

Hindoo

more-hill, several are sculptured

fictions in

that mythology.

packed up

in chests,

and

lovelier flowers."

deities in the

on the

All

loath'd putrescence breeds.

my

lotos,

temple at Stan-

according with the

reliques from

Dhuboy were

ready to accompany the stores and

nition belonging to the

company, with the return of the

when Dhuboy was ceded

to the

Mahralta pundit.

ammu-

garrison,

The 25th of

April was the time appointed for that ceremony, agreeably to the
treaty entered into between the British
I

had received

on that day

instructions to deliver

to the

and proceed

to

Mahratta governor,

and Poonah governments.

up the keys of the

fortress

to strike the British colours,

Baroche with the whole garrison.

When

the

gates were shut the preceding evening the pundit had not arrived,

nor did he

make

departure

I therefore

commanding

appearance on the morning fixed

his

for

my

resolved to leave the city in charge of the

officer of the

company's troops,

until the

Mahratta

governor arrived.

On

that eventful

day the principal Hindoo and Mahomedaa

364
inhabitants of

Dhuboy assembled

Their behaviour

in the inner court,

something uncommonly solemn and

indicated

mysterious, and a horror in their countenance very

At length an aged brahmin with a few

me.

the hall, and

requested I would defer

until the garrison

and

of the durbar.

train of artillery

my

much

associates,

surprised

came

into

departure to Baroche

proceeded with me, as that

my journey would be attended

Knowing my incredulity respecting brah-

day was peculiarly unfortunate, and

with extreme danger.

minical prognostics and cabalistical tables, they added to their

usual strain a prevailing report, that in consequence of the late
treaty

between the company and the Mahrattas, by which the

purgunnas under

my

charge were

to

be restored to the

latter

power, the Gracia chieftains had been for some time secretly

convened at Mandwa, with a number of celebrated soothsayers,

and having

raised a large

body of horse and

under the sanction of Manha,

my

to cut

me

foot,

off or take

had resolved

me

prisoner,

on

return to Baroche.

The

fact was, that the conquest of

Mandwa and

of the rajah's family, had struck a general terror

and

my

among

the Gracias,

correspondence with the other chieftains accomplished

every intended purpose without further bloodshed.

ambassadors to Dhuboy, entered into

most respectable Bhauts

to

become

treaties,

English power continued in Guzerat,

their forces

and

They

all

sent

and engaged the

security for their performance.

The Gracias would probably have adhered

withdraw

the captivity

to these terms,

had the

but finding they were to

lose their influence in that part of India,

they determined to break the treaty; and indignant at the capture

of a fortress hitherto

deemed impregnable, and enraged

against

565
the author of their disgrace, they

vowed revenge; having entered

into a secret combination to effect their purpose, they raised troops,

and

laid plans for

boy

to

my

destruction, on

my

journey from Dhu-

final

Baroche.

To communicate

this report

one cause of the affectionate

Dhuboy on

the

my

day of

of the Gracias' determination was

visit

from the brahmins and elders of

departure

the other, which also sprung

from attachment and gratitude on their

on mine which

produced sensations

never can forget.

"

"

part,

All fame

is

foreign, but of true desert,

Plays round the head, but

" One

comes not near the heart

self-approving hour whole years outweighs

" Of stupid

starers,

After having apprized

and of loud huzzas

me

urged the procrastination of

!"

Pope.

of the impending danger, and vainly

my journey,

they presented

me

with

an address they had just composed in the Hindoo language, translated into Persian

by the durbar munsee, written on paper spotted

with silver and flowered with gold, which

original drawings

compiled.
nor would

and manuscripts from whence these volumes are

The whole
I

preserved with the

is

transaction

filled

me

with ineffable delight,

part with this token of their regard for

all

the

gems

of Golconda.

The

following translation

is

divested of

some

and hyperbolical compliments, which, though

too flattering for the performance of

endeavours

to render

diffidence, as

them happy.

official

lofty

metaphors

well intended, were

duty, and

introduce

it

my

sincere

with the greatest

an unexpected and affectionate tribute from a grate-

366
ml people, the

hour

last

my

another benefit from

pleasure, because

it

saw them, when they could not expect

hands.

insert

it

also

with peculiar

so strongly militates against those unfounded

prejudices and illiberal sentiments once entertained against the

British character in India.

It

likewise affords an additional evi-

dence of honourable feeling and attachment, opposed

to

many

instances of ingratitude, oppression, and cruelty, by the zemindars

and higher powers

Hindostan, inserted

in

preceding chapters.

in

Translation of the Persian Address from the Inhabitants of Dhuboy,

to the

English Collector, on the morning of

his final departure.

ALL A
"Tuou

conferrcst

power and greatness on the sons of men, ac-

cording to thy pleasure

created

their kings

and

" Dhuboy, famed

this

by Thee the nations of the earth are

rulers are ordained

among

English sirdar presided

the inhabitants
shelter to

all,

the cities of the cast,

in

her durbar

whether

him obtained

to

When

the}"

his protection the

When

formed

his

trees in the
tiger

towards

his disposition

He

afforded

were rich or poor; he delivered them

All castes

redress, without distinction

he took the poor by the hand he

ease.

was happy when

was with the best consideration.

from trouble and restored them to comfort.

up

by Thee!

who looked

and without

made him

rich

price.

under

people were happy, and reposed on the bed of

he superintended the garden, each gardener per-

duty

rills

of water flowed to every flower, and

garden flourished.

and the kid might drink

So equal was
at the

all

the

his justice, that the

same fountain

and often

367
did he redeem the kid from the

Under

mouth.

tiger's

his

admi-

nistration the rich dared not to oppress the poor; for his eyes were

open on the great and small

" In this country

we have not known any government so upright

as that of the English:

Ahdsl

if

be disconsolate as a widow: we

and weep
tinue

him

our protector forsakes us we shall

shall

mourn

Alt,a!

as for the death of a mother!

mercy con-

in thy

to usJ"

Truth and justice have often impelled me

of avarice and oppressions of despotism
feelings in recording

when

the loss of a father,

to

mention extortions

delightful

have been

these nobler traits of the Indian

my

character,

the hearts of the people, " as the heart of one man," rising

superior to prejudice of caste and religion, obeyed the dictates of

As such

and gratitude.

nature, feeling,

introduce

it

in favour

of a people not renowned for attachment when hope and fear no

longer influence their conduct.

dignum
Worthy

Our mutual
described.
I

would

sapiente,

a wise

feelings

bonoque

man, and

on

this

me

occasion are easier conceived than

him and

my

then renewed his entreaties that

awaited

a good.

After a short interval the superior brahmin requested

retire with

the garrison

Hor.

est,

marched
as

to

room.

He

Dhuboy

until

linguist into a private

I

should remain in

Baroche, representing the danger which

immediate and otherwise unavoidable.

He

in-

formed me the diviners had again been convened by the Gracia

chieftains; they

had again taken up

their parables,

pronounced

368
and doomed me

the Mantra,

deavoured

to

keep

their machinations,

produced not only

One

tions.

lo destruction.

Secret as they had en-

some had

transpired

and he

oral reporls, but written proofs of their inten-

of the latter documents was almost literally the divi-

nation mentioned by the prophet Ezekiel, on the approach of the

" The king of Babylon stood at the parting of

Chaldean army.

" the way, at the head of the two ways, to use divination.
"

made

" the
"

arrows bright, he consulted with images, he looked on

his

At

liver.

the right

hand was the divination

open the mouth

to

tains,

He

in

slaughter,

to

to appoint cap-

up

lift

the

voice

" with shouting; to appoint two ways, and choose a place for de-

" struction."

ing

My

venerable friend sincerely lamented

me

the holy writings of the brahmins,

my

and

incredulity, assur-

their constant

expe-

rience in these matters, established the truth of his assertions; that

the Mantra, or malediction from the brahminieal soothsayers

was not

diviners,

to

be slighted.

It

my own

countrymen paid attention

tations of the brahmins,

calculations.

although

it

This

had no

and were

knew

effect

to

was dreaded throughout Hin-

Mahomedans

dostan, not only by Hindoos but

in

servants

me

to

postpone

be as

and incan-

be true

in

more than one

But during
I

my

their

instance,

absence with

found something; which

had made a deep impression on

my

they appeared to be extremely alarmed, and entreated

my

journey.

Mantra denounced by the

to

and even some of

some measure guided by

upon me.

in the outer court

to the predictions

the brahmin in the interior of the durbar,

had passed

and

terrific

as the

They

Mandwa

anathema

laid great stress

brahmins and

seers.

in the plenitude of

upon the
It

seemed

papal power.

369
This mantra

explained in the Hindoo Pantheon to be an

is

imprecatory incantation, generally composed of a passage from

name of some tremendous deity occurs.

The Hindoos, and indeed the Mahomedans also, have great faith
the Veda, in which the

in the efficacy of propitiatory incantations,

The

of a malevolent tendency.

yana

exemplify

will

this

and great dread of those

following passage from the

and, with those

who have

Rama-

faith in

such

works, affords a sufficient reason to fear the effects of such curses.

" Even

he

who cannot be

Indra, nor by

those of Kali, nor

noo, shall be destroyed

sumed by

may

slain

if

by the ponderous arms of

by the

terrible

Chackra of Vish-

a brahmin curse him, as

if

he were con-

In another part, brahminical potency, almost,

fire."

be said omnipotency,

is

it

strongly enforced.

" Let not a king, although in the greatest distress for money,

provoke brahmins

anger by taking their property

to

once enraged, could immediately by

him with

destroy
"
is,

Who,

created
its

ancestors, under

Brahma,

What

increase

they,

cars.

men, that

the all-devouring

the sea, with waters not drinkable

wane and
"

and

Avithout perishing, could provoke these holy

by whose

for

and imprecations,

sacrifices

his troops, elephants, horses,

fire

was

and the moon, with

prince could gain wealth by oppressing those, who,

if

angry, could frame other worlds, and regents of worlds; could give

being to new gods and mortals

"

What man

whom,
subsist

"

that
;

is,

those

desirous of

life

would injure

those,

by the aid of

by whose ablutions, worlds and gods perpetually

who

are rich in the learning of the

brahmin, whether learned or ignorant,

3 B
VOL. III.

Veda?
is

a powerful divi-

370
nity

even us

a powerful divinity, whether consecrated or

is

Thus, though brahmins employ themselves

popular.

of

fire

mean occupations, they must

in

all sorts

invariably be honoured, for the}

are something transcendently divine."

"

Of

created things, the most excellent are those which are

animated; of the animated, those which subsist by intelligence

of the intelligent, mankind

The very

birth of a

god of justice;

brahmin

for the

and of men, the sacerdotal

is

a continued incarnation of

brahmin

is

class.

Dherna,

born to promote justice, and to

procure ultimate happiness.

" Whatever exists in the universe,

is

in effect,

form, the wealth of the brahmin, since the brahmin

by

his

"

is

entitled to

in
it

primogeniture and eminence of birth.

When

a brahmin springs to

world, the chief of

duties, religious

"

though not

He who,

all

and

creatures

light,

he

is

born above the

assigned to guard the treasury of

civil.

through ignorance of the law, sheds blood from the

body of a brahmin, not engaged in battle, as many particles of

dust as the blood shall roll up from the ground, for so many years
shall the shedder of that blood be mangled by other animals in his
next birth

or so

many thousand

blood be tormented in

Such
in

insufferable

years shall the shedder of that

hell."

pre-eminence, either implied or confirmed,

a variety of passages respecting the brahmins, pervades the code

of Menu.

Great indeed must be the

when they embrace a

stone.

It

would be

religion of
difficult

to

sacrifice

which humility

such
is

men make,

the foundation

convey an idea to the English

reader of the surprize and horror which prevailed throughout the

371

My Mahomedan

durbar when the mantra was explained.

much

Parsee servants seemed to be as

affected as the Hindoos.

Cicero justly observes, " superslitio

"

omnium

fere animos,

and

per gentes oppressit

t'usa

atque hominum imbecillitatem occupavit."

Superstition, when once diffused

the souls of almost the whole

through the world, oppressed

human

race,

and

fixed itself

upon

the weakness of our nature.

With people thus

usages,

it

and subject

bigotted,

was of no

avail

to

In vain

argue.

such laws and

to
I

opposed

to the

divination of the seers the solemn treaties lately entered into,

the binding security of the Bhauts, given by the

and Gracia chieftains

my Dhuboy

my

remained immoveable

At length they dropped

incredulity.

upon

the subject, and laid the greater stress

the

Having been informed

Bhaut of Serulah, and one of

in

Dhuboy,

to convince

their counsel,

him

deviated a

be called,

to

my

undoubted

tract of

Zinore,

their principal securities,

little

from

him

my

first

Dhuboy and
intersected

day.

In

all

an ambuscade,

was then

plan,

by

gullies

desirino-

river in the

Dhuboy

and

ravines, the

This spot had

and appearing

resolved to pass

former journeys from

and

the Baroche purgunnas, a

pointed out as the intended scene of action

for

the

ready immediately and

to get

haunt of wild beasts and Bheel robbers.

adapted

me by

that Ryjee Sihng, the principal

accompany me on horseback beyond the bed of a

woody

intelli-

friends that I did not entirely despise

I directed

wild country, between the

of-

that part of

gence they had received of the plot devised against

Gracias.

rajah

and were more concerned than

in their superstitions belief,

fended at

friends

Mandwa

and

to

it

been

so well

before the close of

Baroche, a distance

372
miles, I had, to avoid the heat of ihc day, generally set

of

fifty

off

about

the afternoon,

five in

From

next morning.

my Dhuboy

and arrived

al

Baroche early the

prudential considerations, as well as to please

friends,

resolved to

commence my journey

hours sooner; and, accompanied by the Serulah Bhaul,

durbar at two, instead of

We

five o'clock.

who were

to follow with

left

the

halted a short time in

my servants
my escritoire,

a grove without the city gates, waiting for

quin-bearers,

three

and palanwith a lew

papers and valuables, under the escort of an Indian cavalry ofKcer.

I left

my

linguist

and upper servant

at the

durbar

to

come

with the records and larger packages when the garrison marched
to Baroche.

During

with a mind

this halt,

more oppressed by sorrow

at

leaving the place than from any idea of danger on the journey, I

wrote the following

a pencil, which, although since re-

extempore effusions of a heart contending with

vised, contain the

many mingled

lines with

sensations arising from

TDhuboy,

Ye

my

peculiar situation.

farewell! farewell ye ancient towers,

peaceful lakes, ye consecrated bowers

Where

studious brahmins, skill'd in mystic lore,

Avatars, Vedas, Menu's laws explore

Where

And

pious priests attend on Vishnoo's shrine

ruthless Seeva claims the rite divine

While Brahma's choral songs

Too

god

great a

Too

great

Best solace

Not

ah mournful thought

lost, that

is

no more;

for mortals to adore.

mortals e'er can

so the Christian's lore,

Our God

are heard

my

for

human

know

country's creed

present help in time of need

woe'!

;,

373
Though
Yet

he Father

is

Though

The

his great attributes,

beyond our

Man

to his offspring

scan,.

glory, majesty, and light his throne,

own

earth his footstool, and the world his

Though

seraphs' tongues loud hallelujahs raise,

And

heavenly hosts, unnumber'd,

Yet

is

hymn

the contrite heart his temple

Which he with

joy ineffable can

his praise,

still,

fill;

Amidst the songs of angels, pray'r ascends

From

The

mortal

lips,

and with that incense blends

secret sigh, the penitential tear,

Receive a blessing from the. God

His awful

terrors veil'd

mercy

'Tis

we

fear

from human eyes,

gilds the Christian's

opening skies

From them

did Bethlehem's star illume the night

From them

the

From them,

Dove

celestial

wing'd her flight;

the holy benediction came,

Proclaiming Christ, the great Immanuel's name.:

From them

the Gospel light on thee shall shine;

And

give thy country day, as bright as mine.

Thy

delegated Triad then shall

And One

fail,

Eternal Father thou shalt hail

That

glorious Saviour then thy sons shall

Who

came from heaven

To Him

know,

these blessings to bestow:

the brahmin proud shall bend the knee,

And

outcast Pooleah

The

differing castes shall cease ignoble strife,

And

poor Chandalahs eat the Bread of Life.

In virtue's path

from

With him no

His mercy and

Who
And
For

be

free.:

shall all serenely glide,

For God's eternal word

'*

his chains

shall

be their guide

high, no low, no great, no small,'

his love

extend to

all,

meekly humble hear the shepherds

wisely

all

make

his

are ransom'd

voice,

heavenly fold their choice;:

by

his

wondrous

All are invited to the realms above

love.,

;;

'

374
Those

And

where

blissful realms,

all

be harmony, and joy, and peace

One

lustre scarce has swell'd the

Since Britain conquer'd in

Freedom

Since

British laws

Ah

now no more ye

To

The day

And

favour'd clime

rights procured:

boast so mild a sway,

unresisting prey

bids your mantling hopes and joys expire.

short our triumph o'er this wide

domain

honour'd vestige of our wars remain.

From Ahmed's

To

stream of Time,

fix'd that brings oppression dire,

is

How
No

and British

doom'd an

despots

this

here, her valued blessings pour'd.

And
!

jarring castes shall cease,

towns

far distant

This spacious

And

splendid fanes and regal bow'rs,

British

O sad

tract

Where Nature

fruitful harvests

and golden Plenty reigns.

and herds adorn the meads.

wave

their varied heads;

majestic, rolls her tide,

streams of lesser note pellucid glide

Where

And

these fair luxuriant plains,

flocks

Where Nerbudda,

And

bless'd a grateful land.

smiles,

Where numerous

And

obey'd our mild command,

freedom

reverse

on the Concan shores.

stately castles, royal cities rise,

fanes and Minars glad the pilgrim's eyes

Where

cheerful villages, and groves serene,

In beauty deck the bright expansive scene

All these must feel Oppression's iron rod,

And bow,

A stern

reluctant, to a tyrant's

nod

Mahratta's power too soon must own,

And Freedom

quit her Asiatic throne

Your haughty

rulers

Towns,

Mourn

now

cities, villages,

again return,

submissive, mourn

for those blessings

of so short a date

For Scindia, Malwa's chief, has

seal'd

your fate!

! : :;

375
Oppression

Thy

mighty foe of human kind

cruel deeds to darkness are confin'd

No

sun-beams play around thy gloomy form,

No

council wise averts the gathering storm

Thy

giant

And

captive nations feel

arms extend

a lengthen' d chain,
its

rankling pain

Before thy lurid glare their courage dies,

And Hope

expiring seeks her native skies

Thy

breath destroys the fairest fruits on earth,

And

Nature's tears bewail thy direful birth.

Thy

stature

And

seem'd to blot the radiant source of light;

grew

For where thou

to

more than mortal height,

dwell' st

is still

a dreadful night.

But when the day-star from on high appears,

Thy

reign shall vanish, and thy victims' fears;

Thy

adamantine chains

And

Liberty restore her cloudless day.

Ye

bhauts

shall

waste away,

the oral bards of Indian climes,

Like Europe's minstrels

in the feudal time,

'Tis yours to praise the chieftain's

And

'Tis yours to raise, or melt, the

By

all

Ah

fill

the void of History's page,

:

blow the golden trump of fame,

when you

will

Whilst

cities,

chant the legendary

list'ning tribes

fair

Freedom's transient reign

lament the dirgeful

blessings wither'd in their

nations suffering in her hasty

When

you

relate,

These changing

tale.

or the rural vale,

you mourn

Lament her

And

heart,

twine the laurel round each honour'd name.

In crowded

How

human

thus immortalize the passing age

'Tis yours to

And

meed

the fervours of the tuneful art

'Tis yours to

And

mighty deed,

give the hero glory's deathless

with

strain'!

bloom,

doom

strict historic truth,

scenes, familiar to your youth.

S76
The wondering crowd

theme,

will scarce believe a

with events that seem a passing dream.

Fill'd

But, rapt in visions of prophetic joy,

What

bright'ning days in prospect

When

clouds are vanish'd, and the sun appears

you descry

Resplendent, 'midst a nation's gloomy fears

When, Freedom's

And

voice shall hail your native land,

begr again the olive in her hand

When
And,

she shall break the cruel tyrant's rod,

first

When

of blessings! shew the path to

God

Prophetic bards

And Liberty

bliss restore

from

rising joy shall spring

And

join in chorus with the rapturous strain.

farewell

thy gloomy change so near,

drop the sympathetic tear

For thee

For thee

I supplicate in silent pray'r,

That thou

ere long these heavenly gifts

the arrival of

my

may

palanquin and

share

effects

placed them under the care of the cavalry

horseback, and a

and with the other

little

favourite slave

commenced my journey

with

full

six,

at the grove, I

officer,

the

and eighteen

Bhaut

boy behind the

security

on

carriage, I

four hours day-light before us.

I had previously sent off relays of bullocks;

light hackaree, at the

captive shall forget his ponderous chain,

Dhuboy,

these lofty visions sing,

The

armed horsemen

she shall leave Hindostan's realms no more.

But ransom'd hope, and promis'd

On

rate of five miles

and

an hour,

travelling in

passed through

the wild country about sun-set, at least three hours sooner than
usual.

Not meeting with any

molestation from the Gracias, and

concluding the brahmins had been misinformed,

dismissed the

377
Ehaut, stopped a few hours to

my

rest

the Baroche purgunna, and reached

morning, where

people at the entrance of

home

I related the late events at

in safety early the

Dhuboy, and

next

especially

the prognostics of the brahmins respecting the Gracias, as totally

But when some hours had elapsed, without

without foundation.
tidings of

man,

my

servants

and

became alarmed.

nor the appearance of a horse-

effects,

My

suspense was not of long duration,

on looking anxiously towards the road,

for

procession
yells

saw a

sort of funeral

moving towards our garden-house, accompanied by the

of female mourners, more dismal than any I had ever heard.

It consisted of a

mingled group of Mahomedans, Hindoos, and

Parsees, a sight very unusual at an Indian funeral.

There was a

Mahomedan mosque and burying-ground

villa,

they passed, and

We

now

moved on immediately towards

distinguished several different biers

the headless

body of

exclamations of

my

Mahomedan women.

dead and wounded Hindoos of

village cots.

which

the garden gate.

on the foremost lay

cavalry officer, followed by the violent

Another

dead body of a Parsee servant, almost cut

ried

near our

These they placed

in

set

brought ths

to pieces: others car-

different descriptions,

on the

the garden under our front

veranda, and immediately renewed their dreadful lamentations.

When we

could obtain silence, I learnt from the survivors, that

about an hour after

I crossed the

effects arrived at the fatal

spot,

bed of the

river,

my

people and

where they were suddenly sur-

rounded by upwards of three hundred armed Gracias,. on horseback,

my

and four hundred

on

foot,

who immediately

small party with the most savage barbarity, cut

cavalry officer, killed a Parsee servant and several of

VOL.

III.

attacked

down

my

the

atlcnd-

378
ants,

and wounded many more.

intoxicated by

Elaled with

opium and bhang,

their ferocious chieftains called

loudly for the English sirdar, vehemently

My

Dhuboy.

arrive from

and

this success,

faithful

demanding when

people told them

should

had passed

long before, and was then in the Baroche purgunna, far beyond
their reach

although, travelling at the slow pace of oxen,

Thus disappointed, they

not have been three miles distant.

newed

and

insults,

their

my

horses, arms,

wounded men on

the spot, where they had

a sacrifice themselves, but would not betray their master.

fallen

The

dead bodies and the accompanying lamenta-

sight of the

announced the

no language
eminent

" Non
It

tidings of this fatal catastrophe.

first

my

to express

feelings

on

this

occasion.

have

Tacitus,

sublime conceptions and pathetic description, aids

for

my

by a scene of far greater importance.

recollection

"

their plunder, consisting of

palanquin, sword, and some valuable effects

leaving the dead and

tions,

re-

bhang, committed further

frantic with

decamped with

cruelty before they

could

tumultus, non quies

was not a tumult,

it

sed quale magni metus, et magnae

was not quietness

it

was the

irae,

silentium est."

silence of terror,

and of indignation."

Tacitus.

I find

my own

providential de-

The Gracias not pursuing me, seems

so very extraor-

equally difficult to mention

it

liverance.

dinary, that,

among some

other remarkable events of

my

life, I

can, (without referring to second causes, or intermediate agency)

only ascribe

it

and about our bed

privily

laid

Arm, which "is about our path

way wherein I walked they had

to that Protecting
;

a snare

for in the
for

me:

might have looked on

my

riht

3/9
hand and on
care for

my

my

to the

I forget the

had no place

to flee unto,

no man

to

at

and exertion of the hired

vociferation

melancholy procession

in this

howl

but

soul!"

Never can
mourners

left,

an Irish funeral

it

but so

had some resemblance

many

imprecations and

maledictions were mingled with affectionate inquiries and pathetic

eulogy, that

it is

predominated

difficult to

say whether curses or blessings most

was

nor, in their frenzy,

easy to distinguish

it

whether the execrations were entirely applied to the murderers, or

the innocent cause of the disaster.

Their whole behaviour realized

Irwin's account of a similar procession at Cosire in

in

Mohummed, being murdered

consequence of a merchant, named

between Ghinnah and Cosire

in the desert

train of females passed

most dismal

cries.

Upper Egypt,

through the principal

when a mournful
streets, uttering the

" One of them carried a naked sword in her

hand, to imitate the weapon by which the deceased

fell

they

stopped at sundry places, and danced around the sword, to the music

of timbrels and tabors.

They paused a long time

before the

house inhabited by Mr. Irwin and the English gentlemen, and

some of the women made threatening

signs to their servants,

which

agreed with the caution the gentlemen had received to keep within
doors.
frantic

them

It

would indeed have been dangerous to have faced

company, whose clamours and extravagant gestures gave

all

the appearance of the female bacchanals of Thrace, re-

corded of old.

This scene continued for seven days, during which

interval the female relations of the deceased

the town, morning

on

this

their heads,

and

made

a tour through,

night, beating their breasts, throwing ashes

and displaying every

artificial

token of sorrow."

380
Thus

and various ceremonies performed

ihc noisy processions,

by ihe relations and lured mourners

murdered cavalry

And

continued at stated hours for several days.

officer,

Mahomedan burying-ground and

my

for the

garden, they took care

the tragedy.
after the

first

place of prayer was very near

should not be without some share

I certainly felt

many

It

unpleasant sensations, although

was rather a daily counterpart of Chardin's

Persian scene, where, speaking

women, he

of the Asiatic

" their sentiments of joy or of grief are properly transports

their transports are

may be

different times,

despair, and an

and

and

and

this

is

Especially are these cries long in

frightful

image of hell.

The moment she

off;

and continues many days, according

mourning

for the

was lodged

at

royal square; the mistress of the house next to

time.

dies, his family

heard twenty doors

to the vigour of the passion.

the case of death,

says,

ungoverned, excessive, and truly outrageous.

one returns from a long journey, or

burst into cries, that

renewed at

in

onset I was perfectly convinced there was no real

sorrow in the case.

When any

the

as

expired,

downright

Ispahan near the

mine died

the family, to the

all

up such a

twenty-five or thirty. people, set

is

at that

number of

furious cry, that I Mas

quite startled, and was above two hours before 1 could recover

myself.

once
It

is

These

cries

a long time, then cease

continue

all

at

they begin again as suddenly at day-break, and in concert.

this

suddenness which

is

so

terrifying,

together with

greater shrillness and loudness than one could possibly imagine.

This enraged kind of mourning,

if I

may

so call

it,

continued forty

days, not equally violent, but with diminution from day today.

The

longest and

most violent acts were when they washed the

381
body, when they perfumed
terred, at

You

it,

when they

carried

out to be in-

it

making the inventory, and when they divided the

effects.

are not to suppose the people that were ready to split their

sides with crying out,

wept

as

much;

the greatest part of

them

did not shed a single tear through the whole tragedy."

Never was there a picture more

truly

drawn of the scene

I daily

witnessed in the precincts of the cemetery near our garden-house.

person of consequence in Guzerat, well

informed of the

Gracias' intentions, told me, that although in the

killed

and wounded so many of

to destroy

me

my

where

onset they

people, they had resolved not

at that time, but to carry

fortresses in the distant hills,

first

me

alive to

I should indeed

one of

their

have been fed

with the bread of adversity, and have drank the water of affliction.

No

friend

would have known where

I was,

how

nor

to

have ob-

tained redress; the English had no longer any influence, and the

Gracia chieftains acknowledge no superior.

castles

upon the mountains

and bid defiance

Their inaccessible
of civilized nations,

baffle the tactics

Shakespeare's

their experienced generals.

to

creative imagination could alone have depicted

my

situation.

" where
1 '

Where

sat at

" Of drops

good men's

nor wip'd

my

eyes

in a fortress inaccessible,

the dungeon's melancholy gloom,

should have

.Nor

been knoll'd to church

feasts

But

" Amid

"

bell

that sacred Pity had engender'd.

"

" I

things had been savage

should ne'er have look'd on better days

" Nor have with holy

" Nor

all

lost

known what

the creeping hours of time

'twas to pity, or be

pitied !"

melancholy

332
Dreadful as must have been

this sort

of captivity to a free-

born Briton, even without the severities of a dungeon, or any additional torture,

mind not

to

would have been impossible

it

have foreboded something worse.

well acquainted with the cruelties inflicted

from the

earliest annals, to those recorded

The poisoned

sore.

of speedy death,

is

coffee, the crush of

misery.

a reflecting

We

are but too

by Asiatic despots

of the late tyrants of

My-

an elephant, or any kind

a merciful dispensation when compared wiih

the refinements in cruelty often

human

for

made

use of by these adepts in

poison has been often administered to the

ill-

fated princes of the house of Timur, and prisoners of rank in Hin-

dostan, which
or the

should more have dreaded than the baneful cup,

mute and bow-string.

before the tribunal of a

They

speedily transmit the prisoner

more merciful judge

but for the victim of

imperial jealousy or revenge, certain poisonous drugs are mingled

with his food, which by imperceptible degrees undermine his constitution,

and deprive him of

life

in the course of a

few days, a

few weeks, or during a longer period of months, and even of years,

as

may be most

gratifying to the will of a capricious tyrant.

Shocking as these relations

recurred to one

mode of

are,

my

destruction

imagination would have

still

The

more dreadful.

wretched agents of these royal murderers have the art of infusing

deleterious ingredients into the sustenance of the prisoner,

which

tends to destroy the mental faculties, and by a gradual progress of

imbecility terminate in complete idiotism.
firms

by a very curious description of these

This Dr. Fryer constate prisoners

on committing any offence which subjects them

who,

to this destiny,

" are sent by the king's order to a place of punishment, where the

38$
keeper being informed of the heinousness of the erime, mingles for

them a drink made of bhang, the juice of an intoxicating

of

hemp;

tion of
it

this

they refuse; but on receiving the addi-

first

some dutry, made from the deadly solanum,

makes them

crave

at

it

mad, that

so foolishly

into the inner lodgings of the house,

attendants

and apes,

whom

with

called poss,

after a week's

They

more than ever they nauseated.

delicious gardens,

sort

taking, they

are then brought

where folding-doors open upon

cats, dogs,

and monkeys, are

their

they maintain their dialogues, exercising

over them their

humour of an

their genius led

them

assassin, usurper, miser, or

to, whilst

themselves.

After this

what

manner

they are imprisoned during the king's pleasure, or he order their

cure, to restore

them

to their senses again

their spirits are tired

by a

meantime have not a

which otherwise,

after

of doing, and in the

restless appetite

suitable recruit, they linger

by a

lasting

leanness into the shades, which alive they represented/'

and

Such enervating drugs

known
Greece.

in ancient

deleterious potions

Rome, and no doubt

Dropping the

were well

in the ancient ages of

Circe most probably adminis-

allegory,

tered similar beverage and baneful food to those

who were

unfor-

tunately impaled within her magic circle.

" On

with downy coverings grac'd,

seats around,

" With semblance

" Milk newly

" And honey

fair th'

prest, the sacred flour

fresh,

" But venom'd was

plac'd

of wheat,

and Pramnian wines the

treat

the bread, and mix'd the bowl,

" With drugs nfforce

unhappy men she

to

darken all the soul

variety of poisons are mentioned

and poets, especially by Tacitus

'
'

by the Roman

many

historian*

of a similar nature to

S8i
those

now administered

in

India,

and

believe

i:i

the southern

Numantina, the divorced wife of Plautius Syl-

parts of Europe.

vanus, a praetor of

Rome, was accused of having distempered

his

Syanus procured a poison

brain by drugs and magic spells.

to

destroy Drusus, which, operating as a slow corrosive, brought on

the

symptoms of a

natural disorder.

Piso,

and

his wife

Plancina,

were both accused of effecting the death of Germanicus by the

Martina, the confidante of Plancina, was notorious

same means.

for her practices in this diabolical profession;

from Syria

to

Rome,

for

be tried with her employers for the mur-

Claudia Pulchra, the friend of Agrippina,

der of Germanicus.
the

to

and was sent

widow of Germanicus, was accused of an attempt

to poison

Tiberius by spells and incantations; and Agrippina herself, urged

by

the agents of Sejanus, to beware of poison

table, abstained

even taste the

from every thing

fruit

and would not

set before her,

which he presented with

occasioned Tiberius to ask, "Should

severity, will

at that emperor's

this

his

own hand; which

woman

be treated with

any body wonder, when she now imputes

to

me

the

guilt of dealing in poison?"

case

slill

more

in point with the

modern

Asiatic poisons,

is

the conduct of the second Agrippina, the infamous mother of the

infamous Nero, both the unworthy offspring of the virtuous Germanicus.

went

This

wicked woman,

to Sinuessa for

the

when

her husband

recovery of his health,

execute the black design she had long harboured

Claudius

determined
in

to-

her breast

of taking the emperor off by poison, the more speedily to accomplish her ambitious views in favour of Nero.

Tacitus says, "in-

struments of guilt were ready at her beck, but the choice of the

385
poison was

still

lo

be considered

ration, the treachery

quick and sudden in

if

would be manifest.

ope-

its

slow corrosive would

In that case, the danger was, that

bring on a lingering death.

the conspiracy might, in the interval, be detected; or, in the weakness and decay of nature, the affections of a father might return,

and plead

pound of new and

of well

known

skill in

com-

make

on an immediate dissolution.

the trade of poisoning was chosen

woman

This was the famous Locusta; a

for the business.

condemned

to try a

exquisite ingredients, such as would

directly to the brain*, yet not bring

A person

She resolved

favour of Britannicus.

in

lately

among

as a dealer in clandestine practices, bnt reserved

the instruments of state to serve the purposes of dark ambition.

By

of iniquity the mixture was prepared.

this tool

to administer
it

was

to

master."

it

The hand

was that of Halotus, the eunuch, whose business

serve the emperor's table, and taste the viands for his

Claudius swallowed the poison in a savoury dish of

mushrooms; and was

shortly

afterwards

seized

with sickness.

Zenophon, the physician, corrupted by Agrippina, searched the

emperor's throat by means of a feather tinged with the

most

subtle poison; thus accelerating the wishes of his cruel empress,

and preventing a lingering

ness.

stale

of imbecility and

'

;..,;.'':

Such are the ancient and modern

well

attested.

among

wrelchedr

the

intrusted to

choice of them

in

of poison, equally

agitation against

me,

Gracias, for having protected, the helpless villages

my

care,

rity for this assertion

VOL. III.

was

effects

from their cruel depredations.

My

author

was not derived from .common report; Mr.

3

386
Callander, the British resident at Jamboseer,

me
try,

to

Ahmedabad, and was

who accompanied

highly respected throughout the coun-

corresponded with some Gracia rajahs, who had no concern

with the chieftains of

Mandwa

and Veloria, and were

implicated in their treachery; they assured him,

my

after

tion of

in

no shape

in letters written

providential escape, of what was the deliberate inten-

those cruel tribes,

had they secured

me

These

alive.

Gracia friends of Mr. Callander, aided by the bhauls of Serulah,

were the means of recovering

my

from the enemy;

my

palanquin and some other

effects

sword they detained, as a trophy of

their

inglorious exploit.

formerly mentioned the cruel sheep-skin death, sometimes

practised by the Mahraltas, which was not forgotten

various tortures meditated against

tains.

To be sewed up naked

flayed,

and therein exposed

food or water,

is

me by

in the skin

of an animal newly

to the solar rays

in India,

without

perhaps one of the most cruel deaths ever thought

the death of the wrelched sufferer;

ture occasioned

the

those merciless chief-

The deprivation of sustenance would indeed

of.

among

for dreadful

mercifully hasten

must be the

by the skin drying, contracting, and

tor-

closely ad-

hering to the flesh of the living victim.

I

do not

history,

find

any mention made of

this

punishment

in

Indian

excepting one instance recorded in the Ayeen Akbery,

which was probably of a similar nature.

The anecdote

is

alto-

gether curious, and concludes with one of Abul Fazel's usual

remarks.

During the

khalifat of

sent against Dahir, a brahmin

Waleed,

Mohammed

who had usurped

Cossim was

the throne of the

387
and reigned

rajah of Sind,

Tattah on the Indus. Dahir was

Mohammed

and

slain in battle,

at

Cossim sent the

among

khalif,

other captives, two daughters of Dahir, together with presents of

The two young

considerable value.

princesses, in order to revenge

the death of their father, represented falsely

Mohammed

be sewed up

in a

raw hide, and sent

where he was shewn

at seeing their father's

nishing

how

to the princesses

murderer

in

falsehood

Mohammed

khalif

Cossim

in that condition to court,

;

who

expressed great joy

" It

such a situation.

is

asto-

wise prince never suffers him-

be led away by reports; but exercises

and makes

The

the khalif could issue such a cruel order Avithout

positive proofs of delinquency.

self to

the khalif, that

Cossim had been connected with them.

hereupon, falling into a rage, gave orders for

to

to

his

circumspection,

diligent investigation, seeing that truth

common; and

doubtful of whatever

is

it

is

scarce and

behoveth him to be more particularly

said to the prejudice of those

whom

he

has distinguished by peculiar marks of his favour, as the world in

general

bear them enmity, even

without cause, and the wicked

frequently put on the appearance of virtue, to compass the destruction of the innocent."

Abul Fazel does not say whether

Mohammed
to

Cossim terminated

imply that

did.

it

Nor do

this cruel

punishment of

in his death; the reflections

they ascertain whether, like the

Mahratta victims, the Mahomedan general was deprived of

and water: perhaps,

the torrid zone,
inflicted.
slioit,

is

seem

after all, the misery of perishing

by

foot*

thirst in

one of the most dreadful deaths that can be

In the lamentations for Moab, Sibmah, and Dibon,

pathetic,

and sublime, how strongly expressive

is

the

doom

388
of the

Moab,

in

"

ve that dwell

leave the cities, and dwell in the rock like the dove

vine of Sibmah!

woe

alluding to this severest

latter,

weep

I will

for thee, with the

weeping of Jazcr.

thy glory, and "

down from

daughter of Dibon, come

sit in

thirst."

"Whether
or by thirst,

was

I
is

now

termined, and
crisis

of

my

fate,

have been taken

to

of

little

consequence:

escaped.
I

am

off

When

my

destruction was de-

on

reflect

naturally

by poison, by hunger,

this

momentous

solemn and graleful

led into

contemplation. Near thirty years are elapsed, but the images are

not effaced, and the retrospection creates sensations which

not describe.
venge,

came

I,

who appeared
But

off unhurt.

can-

be the sole object of their

to

their

machinations

-did

re-

not end in

the wilds of Zinore, that disappointment only increased their re-

sentment, and engaged them in

On

new

stratagems.

the civil and military establishments being withdrawn from

Barocbe and

its

dependant purgunnas, our family passed the rainy

season at Surat, and, for some time, resided at an English gardenhouse, without the Veriow-cmle, at
walls.

some distance from

After living there a few weeks,

the citv

we observed cvvry evening

several persons lurking under the garden hedges, and concealing

themselves in the adjoining fields: being strangers

we did not

at first attend

to

in the

them; but a constant repetition of

such mysterious conduct at length excited suspicion.

that time, extremely
to

walk

in the

ill

country,

of a fever; and never

left

was, at

the house, except

garden, before sun-set, which was rather earlier than

these persons generally appeared.

As they seemed lobe

of an object which eluded their vigilance,

it

at

in pursuit

length occurred.

389
they might be some kind of spies or agents em-

(hat possibly

mc

ployed by the Gracias to carry

the Surat police, this proved to

On

off.

an investigation by

be the fact; and Mr. Callander

afterwards obtained certain intelligence of the plot by means of

The Gracia

his correspondents in Guzerat.

formed him, that the

summoned

Mandwa and

the soothsayers,

once more destined

to

in-

Veloria chieftains had again

and made sure of

fortress,

hill

Ahmood

rajah of

my

capture.

was

and the emissaries were

to

have been handsomely rewarded.

last plot

Finding their
Surat

districts;

discovered, the Gracia hirelings

left

the

but, from an apprehension of similar attempts,

we

immediately repaired

to

a house within the

health nor spirits to encounter fresh difficulties,

first

vessel

bound

to

some weeks before

Bombay, on

the breaking

the rest of our family

scenes at Baroche and

Surat, I anticipated

satisfaction

embarked on the

up of

the monsoon,

for after the

Dhuboy, and our

more

Having neither

city.

at

melancholy

unsettled situation at

Soon

Bombaj'.

after

receiving orders from the o;overnor and council for the evacuation

of Baroche,

we

sent the English ladies to Surat, before

mencement of the

With them

rains.

a gloom pervaded the

city,

the

is

lapse

unnecessary

to detail

of time and

Neither have

confidence in

its

Asiatic inhabitants

particularised
in

their colours.

unpleasaut circumstances, which, from

change of

which were performed

com-

charm of society vanished;

was lessened, and many of the native troops deserted

It

the

the

nesa, the god of wisdom and

affairs,

have

lost

their interest.

the incantations and

Hindoo temples,

ceremonies

to propitiate

Ga-

policy, with other deities, in favour

590
of Baroche and

its

popular purgunna, lhat the English govern-

ment might be continued over

Similar supplications were offered

and

and happy country.

that fertile

up

Mahomedan

Musjids,

They speak highly

in praise

in the

at the sacred fires of the Parsees.

of British administration in India.

Charms, talismans, and magical ceremonies of various descriptions,

in

were said to have been practised

hopes of producing the same

however

that

such things

differently

different castes,

have formerly observed,

may be

deemed of

lightened Europeans, they are

by the

effect.

by

considered by en-

the utmost importance

Asiatics; and, as a case strongly in point, ia

I shall finish the

modern times,

subject of oriental diviners, soothsayers, and

sorcerers, of all denominations, with a note

from the Hindoo Pan-

theon; in which the ingenious and intelligent author, after pre-

Mahomedans have

mising that both Hindoos and

in sorcery

and witchcraft,

relates

Ally Khan, at Hydrabad,

reignty in India.
in

January 1798,

observation

It

to

is

now

extensive belief

an anecdote of the
the greatest

Mahomedan

detailed in a letter, written from

a political correspondent, with

" Ridiculous as

have connection with

it

this

may appear, that such

politics, it is

Nizam

late

sove-

Poonah
very just

folly

should

nevertheless true, that in this

case they were closely combined: operating, or intending to ope-

on the permanency of a ministry, the succession

rate,

to the govern-

ment, the influence of the English or French at the court of Hydra-

bad

and, consequently,

on

many

points of great national im-

portance.

" For some time past the Hydrabad newspapers have abounded

391
with accounts of necromantic
life;
sill}'

endeavours against the Nizam's

casting another ridiculous ray of light on the folly of that

durbar.

an Nissa,
Azim ul Om-

seems suspected, that TTiiVNiAT

It

begum, (Sekander

Jah's mother) and the minister

raii, are jealous of the superior talents, spirit, and generosity, of

Fkridun

Jaii, his Higlmess's second son, and are using these

shameful practices to undermine his father's affections.

Evidences,

manifestly suborned, affirm, that certain incantations have been

performed on a wooden

figure,

arrayed in a suit of clothes, pro-

cured for the unholy purpose by the mother of

Feridun Jah,

from the Nizam's wardrobe, and that

of his Highness

was buried.

The

been dug up, and produced, with

figure has

some of the Nizam's

hair,

this effigy

found drawn into

side; correspond-

its

ing with the local seat of his highness's paralytic affection

his

barber has been arrested, on suspicion of having furnished the

But the

hair.

prince

old

seems

have

to

sense

disbelieve his son being capable of acting so

sufficient

to

basely; and says,

plausibly enough, that if he hath been palsied by sorcery, a dis-

covery thereof should, by

and

Mogul)

in

Azim

and helpless

rules,

break the

as ever.

Moghlani

Omrah's family, who pretends

ul

verse with spirits, has

is

necromantic

spell,

restore his withered limbs to their functions; whereas he con-

tinues as decrepit

to

all

made

all

She

this stir.

be under the influence of sorcery; and that

the effect of the incantations of

cians of

Hydrabad,

a nephew of an

whom

asseel,

no

less

(or

to hold con-

affirms the

Nizam

his present disease

than twenty-five magi-

she offers to point out; and has

or bed-chamber

female

woman

named

of the Nizam, as

one of the number, who has been apprehended.

of

the

zard,

Mahl

who

is

(or

arc

seraglio)

much

with

Other

alarmed,

sadly

wi-

this

lest

Nizam, should pitch

the

ladies

also

upon

them/'

The same author

Bombay,

in the

says

was once

it

misfortune to live

his

in

immediate neighbourhood of an exorciser; who

planted himself near his garden wall, and by the horrid yells and

music, the necessary accompaniments of

repose, that, failing
to

apply

man

to

by remonstrance and

the police for

must, from the

It

and

he was forced
security.

number of his patients,have been of some

appeared that

clusively, possessed; but, lest his

tion

threats,

restoration

its

or the possessed numerous; for every

whole night.

his craft, so disturbed his

full

note,

moon he was occupied

women

were mostly,

the

not ex-

if

appearance should seem

the annoyance, the author did

This

to sanc-

not attend, to observe his

noisy neighbour's exorcisms.

Such are the practices

of the politest

still

Mahomedan

courts of India.

believed and practised

less

Hindostan, and indeed

sons,

Him, of whom

the diviners

this

their entering the land of

"

When

is

They

are

more or

throughout the extensive regions of

in Persia

it

mad, issued

continued, and accredited in one

and Arabia.

Against these per-

emphatically written,

solemn edict to

his

Him who

maketh

chosen people on

Canaan.

thou art come into the land which the Lord thy

God

giveth thee, thou shalt not learn to do after the abominations of

those nations.

There

shall not

be found

among you any one

that

393
useth divination, or an observer of times, or an enchanter, or a

witch; or a charmer, or a consulter with familiar

wizard, or a necromancer.

For

all

that

spirits,

or a

do these things are an

abomination unto the Lord: and because of these abominations

the Lord thy

God

doth drive them out from before thee."

whom

Such were the people among

ders of the Gracias at Aland wa

as also their secret

four

last

and the wilderness of Zinore,

ambush intended

have suppressed

at Surat, I

anecdotes, interesting to myself, and those immediately con-

cerned

for so

indulgence of

my

my

In detailing the divinations, outrages, and mur-

years in India.

many

I passed

much

my

egotism, as unavoidably remains, I claim the

reader.

I confess I

cannot

now contemplate

extraordinary deliverance from the Gracia machinations with-

out feelings more appropriate to solemn silence, than expression.

The

subject of a particular Providence requires the utmost deli-

cacy and caution; because few, perhaps, are more liable to misconception and

error;

yet a reflecting mind must be conscious of

peculiar feelings in peculiar circumstances: and, although as a

fallible being,

he

may

innocently

fall

into a mistake, if instead

of encourageing pride, presumption, and vanity, he finds his heart

filled

with humility, gratitude, and adoration, to that

Cause, without whose

the ground, he

conclude

this

Great First

divine permission not a sparrow falleth to

cannot be guilty of great aberration.

chapter, written

throughout with

dence and humility, and no part of

it,

extreme

shall
diffi-

until very lately, intended

for publication with the other selections, with

an extract from Alel-

moth, who has treated

and

VOL.

III.

this subject delicately

3

satisfactorily.

394
" It

is

not necessary, in order to establish the credibility of a

particular Providence, to deduce

facts.

it

from known and undisputed

should be exceedingly cautious in pointing out any sup-

posed instances of
themselves

in

this

kind, as those

who

are fond of indulging

determining the precise cases wherein they imagine

the immediate interference of the Divinity

discoverable, often

is

run into the weakest and most injurious superstitions.

possible, indeed, unless

we were capable of

whole chain of things, and of viewing each

connections and
that

absolutely,

it is

bad.

to

final issues,

and

It

is

im-

looking through the

remote

effect in its

pronounce of any contingency,

good or

in its ultimate tendencies either

That can only be known by the Great Author of nature,

who comprehends

the full extent of our total existence,

and

sees

the influence which every particular circumstance will have in

the general

sum of our

But though the peculiar points

happiness.

of divine interposition are thus necessarily, and from the natural

imperfection of our discerning faculties, extremely dubious; yet
it

can by no means from thence be justly

trine

of a particular Providence

the general principle

may

be

true,

any given purpose be involved

in

is

inferred, that the doc-

either groundless or absurd:

though the application of

it

to

very inextricable difficulties."

Fitzosboune's Letters.

"

He

that dwelleth under the defence of the

abide under the shadow of the Almighty

for the
is

my

terror

refuge,

by night; nor

and

my

for the

fortress;

He

arrow that

my God,

in

him

Most High,

shall not
flieth

shall

be afraid

He
When

by day.

will 1 trust

395

my

spirit

was

in heaviness

Thou knewest my path;

in the

wherein I went, had they privily laid a snare for me.

way

They

sharpened their tongues like a serpent; adder's poison was under

their lips.

The Lord

trusted in him,

joiceth;

and

in

is

my

was helped;

and

my

song

my shield; my heart
therefore my heart greatly re-

strength,

will I praise

and

him."

CHAPTER XXXV.
TRANSACTIONS AT SURAT AND BOMBAY, AFTER THE

EVACUATION OF BAROCHE, AND THE CESSION OF

THE ENGLISH DISTRICTS IN GUZERAT
TO THE MAHRATTAS.
1784.

"

To

May

not the pleasure of

Omnipotence

every clime some secret good dispense

Those who amidst the

May

they not gales

torrid regions live,

unknown

See daily showers rejoice the

to us receive
thirsty earth,

And bless the flowery bud's succeeding birth,

The various heaven of an obliquer sphere
;

While by

fix'd laws,

They

twelve hours that shade for twelve that burn

feel

And may

and with

a just return,

not those, whose distant lot

is

cast

North beyond Tartary's extended waste,

Where

through the plains of one continual day,

Six shining

And

six

months pursue

their even

succeeding urge their dusky

way

flight,

Obscur'd with vapours and o'erwhelm'd

in

night,

May they not scorn our sun's repeated race,

To narrow bounds confin'd, and little space ?"

Prior.

CONTENTS..

situation of the civil

and military servants on

double government of

attending
of

arrival at Sural
evils

administration of the English

happiness of Surat

hard
to

Europe

and commerce

effects

decline of magof a dreadful storm devastations

in

its

oriental gardens

compared with Pliny's at Laurentinum

of custard apples

Moguls

their

amrah,

oriental

chamber

Elisha's

Zulam Bhang

mango

literary

blossom

chief

variety

oriental
characters

perfumes
there

morality and

piety of her writings

font at Belgram

the Pierian spring of

general female portrait Asiatic

refections
insignia necessity of preserving

reputed

oriental state

on eastern literature character of ylvyar, a

her aphorisms and maxims

its

the

at

sacred destination

celebrated female philosopher

gardens

and Persians at Surat

Gibbon's remark

1783

resolution

changes at Surat

beauties in Indian gardens

Baroche

exiled civilians from

late

authority- -and sole

nabob's

aspect of the company's affairs in

summer parlour of Eglon

India

the English in that city

provision for the nabob consequent

pavilions

villas
-

to

many

Mahmud-a-Bhaug

nificence

at

gloomy

situation of

return

the

abolition

it

that establishment

and final departure from Baroche

Striking the British colours,

in

effects

it

cities

in

consequence
lation

Pulparra

revisit

superstitions there

of Hindoo widows never practised at Bombay

prevented in Guzerat
blessed effects
/he districts

introduction

encouraged

scientific

that prince

India

cure

particular

Mahrattas

pose

arrival

of the opthalmia

practice

zodiac rupees, by whom

at

Bombay

great

manners at that presidency

increase

infanticide
India

in

general

state-

liberal

instances

letter from

of medicine among

coined and for what pur-

alteration in the style

-final

its

previously known

character of Serfojee, rajah of Tanjore

the

Baroche

by the brahmins

in

immo-

of vaccination in

of Benares ; authenticity of that fact

ment of medical practice

and

Hindoo

resolves

of

life

and

of the emigrants from

of population at Bombay

increase of private

increase of crimes and punishamong

natives
consequence ungrateful and immoral
the Indian character
on
of sepoys

expense and the public expenditure

ments

the

in

traits in

letter

summary of Indian
to the islands

the desertion

depravity, by Sir James Mackintosh

of Salsette and Elephanta

excursion

improvements at Tannah

further remarks and illustrations of the excavations in those sacred

islands

atmosphere of

excavated mountains.

Salsette

refections

on the summit of the

CHAPTER XXXV.

Ihe

last

chapter concluded

Dhuboy, and

Company
council

all

the evacuation of Baroche,

the valuable districts belonging to the East India

in Guzerat.

When

on which the chief and

the yacht

embarked from Baroche arrived on the southern banks of

the Nerbudda,
flag

with

we had

the mortification to behold the Mahratta

waving over the ramparts.

had witnessed

It

was the

first

time the natives

Their tears and other

that standard of oppression.

expressions of sorrow on that sad occasion have been recorded;

some of them accompanied us

ations,

to Surat in

hopes of procuring

situ-

under the English government, either there or at Bombay.

Thus were

the civil

and military servants on

blishment, obliged to leave that once

happy

Baroche

the

esta-

settlement, in the midst

of the rainy season, and to seek an asylum at Surat, uutil the navigation opened to

Bombay
The

at the breaking

up of

the south-west

months now spent there afforded

monsoon

in

but

novelty or interest to a former description in 177^ 5 and

little

October.

three

several subsequent visits.

The double government which had then

the conclusion of the treaty entered into

pany with the nabob's

VOL. III.

father,

existed in Surat, from

by the East India Com-

Moyen Odeen,
'i

in the

middle of the

402
many

eighteenth century, was attended with

The

inconveniences.

firmaun obtained at that time from the Mogul emperor vested the

company with

English

command

of the imperial

gave them power

to

government of Surat

the

emporium.

fleet stationed at that

appoint a naib, or deputy,

the administration of affairs in

that city.

to the

who

filled

and died

died

for

the reign of

that station during the whole of rny residence in India,

in

Nizam Odeen succeeded

1790.

time dwindled to a name,

court of Delhi.

sor,

nabob,

1703, and of his son Cootub Odeen,

in

bobship, but the authority of the

Bombay

It also

This mingled govern-

ment of the English and nabob continued during

Moyen Odeen. who

and the

castle,

this

his father in the

Mogul emperor being

title

na-

at that

was never confirmed by the

Nizam Odeen dying

1799? the government of

in

very properly interfered in the appointment of a succes-

with a view of putting an end to tumults, confusion, and mis-

chief,

which on various occasions had molested the peace of Surat,

occasioned by the exactions, oppressions, and corrupt administration in

the nabob's

durbar; especially

and conducting the police of the

in collecting the

revenues

This mal-administralion

city.

had so often disturbed the happiness of the inhabitants, the walls

and

fortifications

were

in

such a defenceless

stale,

for

want of

timely repairs, and the surrounding districts had been so often in-

vaded on the nabob's quarrels with the Mahrattas, that

dent the power of a Surat nabob,

Mogul emperor, was inadequate

After a
general

in

full

now no

to this

it

was

evi-

longer an officer of the

important situation.

and clear arrangement between

the governor-

council at Calcutta, and Nassar Odeen, the brother of

the last deceased nabob, the

Bombay government was

authorized

403
to

conclude a new treaty with Nassar Odeen, and

him nabob of

Surat, under the protection of the English East India

Company, on
defensive

the following conditions, viz.

parties; that the civil

the part of the

and

that the

entitled

have

distinctions of his predecessors, should

and security

for himself,

servants, from the authority

own expenses and

his relations,

and process of the

These conditions were acceded

to,

those of

and immediate

courts.

and a treaty concluded

Duncan, governor of Bombay (who went up

Surat for the purpose,

and

contracting

the

new nabob should be

a suitable share of the revenue for his

between Mr.

offensive

and military administration should be on

company;

to all the respect

That an

take place between

should

alliance

his officers,

constitute

to

in

May

1800) and Nassar Odeen.

to

In con-

sequence of which peace, good order, and happiness, under an

equitable administration have prevailed ever since in the city

commerce and manufactures have

territory, placed in

increased,

the hands of the

Mahratta depredations, has

her

and the surrounding

company, and

freed from

surprizingly,

under the

flourished

After an ample provisiou for the

protection of the British flag.

nabob, and deducting the charges of collection, the company

re-

ceive an annual revenue amounting to three lacs of rupees.

When
company's
Europe.

the

Baroche emigrants arrived

affairs

In the

many

in

1783, the

were not very prosperous, either in India or

latter the British nation

the French, Spaniards,

lost

at Surat

war with

In the former, the recent peace with

the Mahrattas had deprived the

in

at

Dutch, and Americans, and the company

valuable ships.

valuable possessions

had been

Guzerat

Bombay

presidency of

all

the hostilities in which the

its

Eng-

404
were engaged with Tippoo Sultan, had been

lish

lately

attended

with disastrous consequences, especially in the recapture of Bednure, and the destruction and imprisonment of General Mat-thews,

and the flower of the Bombay army.

Mangalore on the Malabar

forces,

coast,

still

but they were not expected to

against such superior power,

when

The

of Onorc and

forts

held out against Tippoo's

make

much

a prey to disease,

longer stand

and

destitute

of provisions, stores, and comfort of every description.

Thus gloomy was the general aspect of

affairs

on the western

Compared with Bengal and Madras,

side of India.

Bombay were

military establishments at
scale; they were

now much

the civil

and

always on a contracted

curtailed; the military from Baroche

were stationed at the presidency, or ordered to the subordinate garrisons

but no compensation, nor place of emolument were offered

to the civil servants exiled from

maintenance

for

gentlemen who had been from

years in the company's service.

accomplish

embark

for

resolved

it,

Guzerat; not even a

to

England, by the

In

addition to other inconveniences,

to

thirty

dilemma, such as could

concerns and

their Indian

settle
first

this

fifteen

sufficient

convenient opportunity.

we were informed by our

But

to
in

corres-

pondents at Bombay, that the captains of the homeward-bound

Indiamen demanded eight thousand rupees

of a

single

man and
gers

his wife.

by the

last

Bombay; some
ordered

home

America

and

person,

in

fifteen

thousand

(1000/.) for the passage

for

that of a gentle-

This was certainly imposed upon the passen-

ship of that description which had sailed from

families were

now

returning by the

consequence of the general peace

and on our

arrival at

Bombay we were

in

men

of war

Europe and

offered a passage

405
The captain with whom we embarked

on more moderate terms.

for

England received upwards of eighty thousand rupees,

thousand pounds

One

sterling,

for

homeward-bound

his

gentleman, distinguished for

his

liberality,

sand guineas for the accommodation of

and delicacies
compensation

passengers.

gave

five

thou-

wife and family

his

in

an ample supply of Madeira wine, provisions,

ship, besides

this

or ten

This

for the table.

for five or six

be deemed a handsome

will

months board and lodging

in

any part

of the world.

great change

had taken place

at Surat during the last ten

years.

The splendour formerly kept up

and the

style of

medans

lived

Mogul magnificence

my

on

first visit,

Hindoo nor Mahomedan

streets,

little

seemed almost annihilated. Neither

pageantry

commerce

Her dock-yards,

Surat.

of that

life

and

of ancient Tyre;

The

which the principal Maho-

now

enlivened the

and the war which had so long raged

affected the Asiatic

felt at

in

the nabob's durbar,

in

in

in

Europe and India,

general, but was most sensibly

storehouses, and bazars, indicated

formerly likened to the glowing picture

spirit,

was now comparatively

all

public

silent

and forsaken.

usual calamities of war had been heightened by the dreadful

storm, which happened a year before on the western shores of

India.

The

at Surat

it

effects of its ravages at

was

still

Baroche have been mentioned

more tremendous.

The

the Moguls, long out of repair, the slighter

mud-built cottages of the lower

many

mansions of

Hindoo houses, and the

classes, alike

of their inhabitants in the ruin.

tottering

gave way, and buried

Extensive parts of the

outer walls and towers of the fortifications, long in a dilapidated

state, fell

down; and

the w hole city exhibited a scene of desolation.

r

406
in the surrounding country,

boats,

and

at the

belonging to a Turkish merchant, were entirely

cruizer on the

Bombay

no

vessels.

felt

richly

lost

their

the finest

and every soul perished;

Dolphin, and several of the smaller

The ravages of this storm extended along

upwards of six hundred miles on the west

was

foundered

The Revenge,

station, foundered,

together with the Terrible,

for

with yachts,

Three ships

were driven on shore.

cargoes exceeded five lacs of rupees.

armed

bar,

vessels of all descriptions in the river, either

at their anchors, or

laden,

peasantry and

villages, with the

Every ship

were swept away.

cattle,

whole

the coast

side of India

but

it

most about the latitude of Surat and Baroche, and added

trifling effect to

the sombre appearance of this once animated

emporium.

The palace and gardens

at

Mahmud-a-bhaug were

nearly de-

stroyed by the storm, nor did the nabob seem inclined to repair

them.

The garden-houses of the English gentlemen

damage, but were now resuming

their

suffered

former appearance.

Melan-

choly indeed was the general aspect of Mahmud-a-bhaug.

pavilions and detached buildings were

blown

to

years out of repair.

mentioned

in

The

pavilions

and smaller

The

having

pieces,

by lapse of time, and the parsimony of the nabob, been

much

for

many

buildings, so often

the oriental gardens, separated from the princely

mansion, are not to be considered like the generality of European

summer-houses, as ornamental structures

command

a prospect

well as ornament, they

to embellish a vista, or

on the contrary, being intended

occupy

different parts of the

for use as

garden

some-

times connected to the principal building by corridores and verandas, oftener entirely detached, like those described in the chief's

407
garden at Baroche, where each pavilion, shaded by a
da, and encircled

by

its

own

appropriated to a respective purpose

among
I

and

canals, fountains,
:

the

most

retired

have mentioned the similarity of the

whelmed

Roman

generally,

villa at

respondent

Mogul

dwellings at Surat: and the

such modern structures in Hindostan.

to

summer palace of

the

and Mahmud-a-Bhaug,
theTusculan

villa

at Surat, bear a striking

Amores mei,

" Here

is

the calm slumber of forgetful night."

my

heart, here fix'd

In Lord Orrery's essay on the

" you will be delighted with a

of that

villa,

and

Shah-Bhaug,

resemblance lo

found himself not only enclosed

all

of Pliny, he

He
tells

re vera amores."

soul's delight,

little

apartment during the noisy

perfectly defended from

my

life

mansion at Laurentinum.

in his travels

very cor-

and Laurentinum, especially the detached build-

" Here

his description

is

emperor Shah Jehan, near Ahmedabad,

ing at the latter, which Pliny calls "

tion of the

Pompeii

near eighteen hundred years ago), to the houses in

it

description of Pliny's elegant retreat at Laurentinum

in that

is

is

from the mountain of volcanic matter, which over-

eastern cities, particularly the

to his

parterres,

the Moguls, set apart for the zenana.

(lately cleared

the

slight veran-

tells

Lord Boyle,

garden apartment adjoining

mentions

it

with ecstasy in

us that he constantly lodged

festivals

of Saturn; and at once

in sweetness

and

kinds of interruption.

solitude,

but

Doctor Shaw,

through the Levant and Barbary, and in

his descrip-

houses there, takes notice, that they have imitated the

eastern manner,

by building a private

set of apartments,

seem rather annexed, than properly belonging

to the

which

rest of the

408
The

house.

little

chamber designed by

where he retired at

the

Shunamite

without breaking

his pleasure,

in

for Elisha,

upon

the pri-

own

vate affairs of the family, and without being interrupted in his

may

devotions,
ings

slain

as

may

be conjectured to be one of these separate build-

summer

also the

parlour of Eglon, where he was

by Ehud."

Zulam-Bhaug, the " Garden of Oppression," formerly noticed,

called by the nabob, Alla-Bhaug, Paradise, or literally the "

den of God,"

still

continued

damages sustained by

to

the storm

beauties heightened by every

be

his favourite

had been

means which

The

retreat.

repaired,

all

Gar-

his wealth,

and

power, and

Although the pavilions and other

influence, could accomplish.

buildings were less magnificent than those at

Mahmud-a-Bhauo\

and some other of the nabob's palaces, the grounds were more
less

and beautiful than the generality of the Indian gardens

profuselj''

adorned with

its

art-

and

and flowers; not only of

trees, shrubs,

those indigenous to Hindostan, but with every variety procurable

from China, Persia, and Europe.

rishing with the Chinese roses

The apple and

and oranges, interspersed amono-

mangos, plantains, and tamarinds, reminded

associations at the
I

had seen

Cape

of

the peach, flou-

Good Hope

me

of the interesting

and more than any

thino-

India realized Mason's beautiful description of an

in

oriental garden.

" Amid

ambrosial tufts, where spicy plants

'

Weeping

-'

Stood crown'd with Charon's rose

" The
'-'

their

patriarch

perfum'd

palm

Shower'd plenteous

tears

his load

of myrrh, and nard,

,

or where, apart,

of sugar'd dates

where the

fig,

of standard strength,

>

409
" And
"

rich pomegranate,

wrapt in dulcet pulp

Their racy seeds, or where the

" Bent

with

In these gardens

its

made

citron's

considerable additions to a collection

of near two hundred specimens of seeds

and flowers

trees, shrubs,

many

rat;

bough,

load of golden fruit mature."

at

had preserved from the

Baroche, and different parts of Guze-

of which have since flourished in the conservatory at

There

Stanmore-hill.

have had the pleasure of beholding the

tamarind-tree, custard-apple, and cotton-plant, flourishing with the

ginger, turmerick,

and

and have gathered ripe guavas from

coffee;

a tree entwined by the crimson ipomea, the lovely Mhadavi-cveeper

of the Hindoos; encircled by the changeable rose (hibiscus mutathe fragrant mogree, attracting alhinna,

bilis)

have not succeeded with the mango, which,

tories,

Duke

conserva-

of Northumberland, and perhaps in some others.

fruit, I believe,

did not arrive at

mango,

mentioned among the

Cama Diva,

arrows of

dipped,

is

as

formerly

the

maturity

full

five

warm

Hindoo god of

mentioned

in

The amrah,

were in perfection and richly scented.

the

in larger

tulsee.

has not only blossomed, but produced fruit; in those belong-

ing to the

The

and sacred

the

the blossoms
or

bloom of

flowers in which the

love, are said to

hymn

that

to

be

deity.

" Sweetly," says another tender lamentation, " delightful are the
flowers

of the amra on the mountain top, while the murmuring

bees pursue their voluptuous

me,

decks

my

Mahesa:

shoulders

delightful,

a garland of water

yet

afflicling to

Kesava!

lilies,

on

my
3

am

not

with subtle threads,

not serpents with twisted folds.

petals of the lotos glitter

VOL. III.

absence of the youthful

friend, in the

the terrible

toil

The blue

neck, not the azure gleam of poi-

410

not again; approach

me

sprinkled on

is

O, god of love! mistake

ashes.

me

sandal- wood

Powdered

son.

me

1113^

limbs, not pale

Maiiadeva

not for

not in anger; hold not

in

wound

thy hand

the shaft barbed by an arnra flower!"

The

custard-apple, or ramphul,
bulbul, or Indian

with the

of custard-apple,

species

drawings, and abridged

my

is

delineated in the

is

The

nightingale.

not engraved.

first

sitaphi/I,

When

volume
another

made

description of the Indian fruits,

the

knew

not of their symbolical meaning, nor religious dedication, as mentioned in the Hindoo Pantheon

Rama,

said in

is

where the ramphul, or

shape to form a cone, and

its

Siva; as placed on

its

base

it

is

fruit

of

hence sacred

to

resembles a pyramid.

Its coat is

exceedingly rough, being divided into lozenges by lines deeply indented, drawn spirally right and

from the insertion of the stalk

named

side,

and

in

to

and

intersecting each other,

the tip.

" Another species

is

Sita, spouse of Ram a (incarnations of Vish-

sitaphul, after

noo and Lacsiimi)

left,

this fruit is

delectably smooth and soft out-

shape not so conical as the other.

It is fancied to

resemble the

mamma

larly related

of the origin and application of these appellations,

which

of the

shall not explain

human

female

or detail.

popular legends of Hindoo fabulists

European

It is
will

and legends are popu-

not always that the

bear expounding to an

reader."

I failed in

many

of the seeds gathered from those fragrant trees

and shrubs, which

in

cially the females

of every caste and description.

such great variety delight the Indians; espe-

The

fields, as

well as gardens, around Surat, are cultivated for this purpose, not

only to adorn the ladies, but the Hindoo temples, images, and

411
They

dancing-girls belonging to them.

used to perfume the

esteemed

on} x or alabaster,
lette,

more profusely

and unguents, which are so universally

oils

make a conspicuous

and form a considerable

article

travelling merchants throughout

the sandal and mogree

of

on the Indian

figure

Hindostan

toi-

with the borahs and

traffic

especially those from

the roses of Sural are neither so abundant

or fragrant as to produce the valuable ottar.

these,

still

These, preserved in small bottles, and boxes of

in Asia.

are

Resembling some of

was probably the box of ointment used by the pious Mary,

and the nard mentioned

" Nardo
"

Of late

in the invitation

Nardi parvus onyx

years, the

Hindoos

to Virgil.

vina merebere,
eliciet

Ode

cadum."

most beautiful

least those in the best condition,

guls or

from Horace

villas

12.

1.

4.

and gardens

at Sural, at

no longer appertain to the

Mo-

but, with very considerable landed property in

the outer city and adjoining districts, belong to the Parsees, a

numerous and industrious

tribe

mentioned

in

a former chapter.

These Persian emigrants are now wonderfully multiplied: excepting the extraordinary instance of the children of Israel, there

perhaps, no record of so great an increase as

tribe in India,

among

is,

the Parsee

sprung from the few families who emigrated thither

for the preservation of religious liberty.

Active, robust, prudent,

and persevering, they now form a very valuable part of the company's subjects on the western shores of Hindostan, where they are

not only protected, but highly esteemed and encouraged.

never interfere with the

where they

settle,

They

government or police of any country

but gradually and

silently

acquire money, and

412
The

depending on such an acquisition.

the influence usually

Parsees not only acquire wealth, but enjoy the comforts and luxu-

accompanying

ries naturally
tic

economy, and especially

make

for their

as

it;

evident in their

is

own domes-

in the entertainments they

English friends at

Bombay and

Surat,

sometimes

where Asiatic

splendour and hospitality are agreeably blended with European

taste

and comfort.

of their

priests,

fications,

and

Subject to

and

liable to

spiritual or

little

few restrictions

religious mortifications,

temporal influence

in food, fasting, puri-

compared with the Hindoos,

and even the Mahomedans, they know how

appreciate and

to

enjoy the blessings by which they are surrounded.

Surat at that time

Mogul

contained only the shadow of a

court; an extensive commerce, of far more importance to

grandizement, rendered
resort of

it

the

first

emporium

in India,

merchants from every quarter of the globe.

the residence of several eminent

It

and the
was also

and learned Mahomedans from

Persia and the northern provinces of Hindostan, where

literature, art,

ag-

its

Mogul

and science, no longer met with encouragement.

occasionally associated with these

nians and Turks, at the villa of

literati,

as also with

Mulna Facroodeen,

many Arme-

a rich Mogul,

partial to English society.

At

these

visits,

and similar opportunities during three months'

leisure in this extensive

and opulent

investigate the progress of art

rary acquirements.

more able

to

science,

was

to

and the extent of

form a conclusion,

upon the subject; but

make a proper

estimate,

if
it

some pains

at

Incompetent myself, from

knowledge of the language,

decisive opinion

and

city, I

to

lite-

an insufficient
I

do not

offer

not misinformed by those

may

be safely affirmed,

413

knowledge

contracted, and their sentiments

illiberal.

have occasionally mentioned the few exceptions within

my own

that their

is

observation of the natives of India, and

Gibbon's remark on the Arabians

may

we may conclude
be justly applied

that

to the

generality of Asiatics, and especially of the Indian moslems in

higher classes of societ}

r
:

" That they deprived themselves

of

the principal benefits of a familiar intercourse with Greece and

Rome,

the knowledge of antiquity,

and the freedom of thought.

Confident in the riches of their native tongue, the Arabians dis-

dained the study of any foreign idiom.

were chosen among

translations,

their Christian subjects

sometimes on the original

haps on a Syriac version

physicians, there

is

The Greek

and

text,

they formed their

more frequently per-

the crowd of astronomers

in

no example of a poet, an

historian being taught to

interpreters

orator, or

and

even an

speak the language of the Saracens.

The

mythology of Homer would have provoked the abhorrence of those

stern fanatics; they possessed in lazy ignorance the colonies of the

Macedonians, and the provinces of Carthage and Rome.

heroes of Plutarch and Livy were buried in oblivion
tory of the world before

Mahomed was

reduced

to

Greek and Latin ochools may have

standard of exclusive taste; and

literature
rant.

am

know that the

the orientals have

style, the graceful

classics

fixed in our

not forward to

much

proportions of

have much

to learn.
art,

minds a

condemn
I

to teach,

The temperate

the forms of visible

lectual beauty, the just delineation of character

his-

Our education

and judgment of nations, of whose language

Yet

lieve that

and the

a short legend of

the patriarchs, the prophets, and the Persian kings.

in the

The

the

am

igno-

and

I be-

dignity of

and

intel-

and passion, the

414
rhetoric of native argument, the regular fabric of epic

The

poetry.

and reason

influence of truth

is

of a

and dramatic

ambiguous

less

complexion.

The philosophers of Athens and Rome enjoyed

the blessings

and asserted the

rights of civil

and

religious

free-

Their moral and political writings might have gradually

dom.

unlocked the

fetters

of Eastern despotism, diffused a liberal

spirit

of inquiry and toleration, and encouraged the Arabian sages to

suspect that their caliph was a tyrant, and their prophet an im-

The

postor.

of superstition was alarmed by the intro-

instinct

duction, even of the abstract sciences; and the

rigid doc-

of the law condemned the rash and pernicious curiosity of

tors

Almamon.
and the

To

the thirst of martyrdom, the vision of paradise,

belief of predestination,

we must

enthusiasm of the prince and people.

Saracens became

away from
ful

more

the

presumed

The

camp

to read

effects

Mahomedans

less

formidable,

when

to the college,

and

when

ascribe the invincible

And

the sword of the

their

youth was drawn

the armies of the Faith-

to reflect."

of the belief

in predestination,

not only

among

just mentioned, but the Indians in general, are

the

won-

The entrance of

derful,

and pervade

jumma

musjid, or grand mosque, in the capital of a district, had

their

been adorned by two

ning,

fell

down

desolate beauty.

the mullah told

at

whole conduct.

lofty

a few

miliars;

feet

from

one of them struck by

its

base,

and

left

the

light-

the other a

On inquiring why the damage was not repaired,

me their religion did not permit it when produced

by such a cause.
It

would be unpardonable

literature without

mentioning

to

conclude the subject of oriental

Avyau, a

celebrated female philo-

415
among

sopher

the Tamuls.

on the Coromandel
this

the protestant mission

coast, has given a very interesting

account of
trans-

This Indian phenomenon was a poly-

from her writings.

lations

in

woman, accompanied by many valuable

extraordinary

and invoked the god Pulleyar, or the deily held by the Hin-

theist,

doos

Dr. John,

be the protector of learning and science, as Mercury was

to

among

The time

the Greeks.

in

which she

lived,

placed in the

is

age of the three famous kings, Sholen, Sheren, and Pandien, which
falls

about the ninth century of the Christian

sciences

lady was well acquainted with chemistry, and her

this

moral writings were written

for the benefit

Her performances

larly for youth.

of mankind, particu-

Tamul

are introduced in the

and read by the children amongst the

schools,

Amongstother

asra.

books which

first

they learn.

Dr. John further says, " but neither the children un-

derstand

nor can hardly any master comprehend each of the

it,

sentences the} contain; as some are composed of such high and

7

abstruse words, which admit

that each sentence could

Some appear

to

pretation; but

me

some

consulted, vary so
ficult to

The

clear enough,

are so dark,

much amongst

sense,
five

which

possess

and some say

different ways.

and admitting only one

and those with

whom

and

it,

to that

have
it

dif-

manu-

for there are also different manuscripts.

begins

with a letter;

the golden alphabet of the Tamuls.

Tamul

therefore

From

hundred aphorisms and maxims, translated from three

Avyar,

inter-

chose there-

sentences are placed according to the order of the

call

themselves, that I found

which gave the best sense, and according

alphabet; each accordingly

may

be interpreted in

decide between their interpretations;

fore that
script

more than one

several

treatises

have selected the few following, as a specimen.

we
by

416

FROM THE ATISUDI, BY AVVAR.

Glory and honour be to the divine son of

hiin

with the flowers of the Ati.

Charity be thy pleasure.

Be not

Do

passionate.

not manifest thy secrets.

Give, and then eat.

Never cease

to

improve

in learning.

Build not too large a house.

Forget offence.

To

protect

Do

not part with thy friend.

Be

not slothful in thy actions.

is

noble.

Keep company

Do

with the virtuous.

not speak too much.

Converse with those who are

polite.

Save rather than destroy.

Do
Do

not pursue a conquered enemy.

not occupy thyself with

Keep

trifles.

the divine laws.

Cultivate what gives the best

Go

not where a snake

Be prudent

in

may

fruit.

lie.

applying thy money.

Do not despise thy ancestors.

Make not others blush by thy speaking.
Do not come near one who is in a passion.

who

is

crowned

417

Go
Do

nol into the house of the dancing-girls.

not like dispute.

Endeavour

Be

to get a

house of your own.

clean in thy clothes.

Go

only where there

Love

is

peace.

religious meditation.

FROM THE KALWIOLUCKAM, OR RULES OF LEARNING,

BV AVVAR.

The

zealous study of

sciences

brings

increasing happiness

and honour.
Learning

wise

If

all

really the

is

man

is

most durable

like a supporting

should be

lost,

treasure.

hand.

what we have learned

"What we have learned

youth,

in

is

will

like

never be

lost.

a writing cut in

stone.

He who

has learned most,

Though one

is

is

most worthy of honour.

of low birth, learning

will

make him

respected.

In proportion as one increases in learning, he ought also to increase in virtue.

If knowledge has a proper influence

upon the mind,

us virtuous.

Science
If one

is

an ornament wherever we come.

knows what

Religious wise

Wisdom
VOL.

III.

is

men

sin

is,

he becomes wise.

enjoy great happiness.

the greatest treasure on earth.

3

it

makes

418
whom

In

much

is

Wise men

him

science, in

are exalted above

is

great value.

other men.

all

PROM THE MORAL SENTENCES CALLED KON N EI V ENDEN ?

BY AVYAR.
Mother and

father are the

first

known

Deity.

Obstinate children are like a poisonous draught.

If thou cherishcst passion,

To obey

thy father

To honour
Be

is

all

thy merit

better than prayer.

thy mother

is

better than sacrifice.

peaceful, give, and be happy.

The

best

The

best ornament of a female

ornament of a family

unanimity.

is
is

Without a clean conscience, there

mild temper

Amongst
Speak

is

no good

sleep.

is

too often neglected.

nearest friends speak not impolitely.

friendly even to the poor.

fruit will

be equal

bad wife

slandering wife

is

to the seed.

like a fire in the lap.

is

like

a devil.

Let thy fellow creatures partake

Without
If the

modesty.

a beauty in women.

is

relations civility

Even with thy

The

is lost.

religion

Lord

is

is

no

in thy

enjoyments.

virtue.

angry, no

man can

save

If any faith could be placed in a legend recorded in the

Akbery, we might suppose

Avyar

had paid a

visit to

Ayeen

the college

419
of Benares, and the classical font at Belgram, a town
vince of Oude, celebrated for producing
tions,

men

and melodious voices; and containing a

the pro-

in

with lively imaginawell,

of which whoso-

ever drank for a continuance of fifty days would find his understand-

The modern

ing enlivened, and his eye-sight brightened.

of India,

if

such there

seem

are,

to

have forsaken

spring, as very few traits of genius appear

few

men

in the

from the brahmin seminaries

path of science,

scholar, like Avyar,

is

is

respects to that of

the

among them.

may

That a

occasionally appear

in

in

Hindostan.

As such

have

her portrait; so contrasted in

all

Hindoo, Mahomedan, and Parsee wo-

Whether confined within the secluded haram,

men.

Pierian

nothing extraordinary; but a female

a prodigy

been the more particular

this

literati

or of

more

easy access in a voluptuous city, the oriental females, far from

cultivating intellectual entertainment, pass their time
listless

The

apathy, or personal decoration.

vails in a

certain class of beauties,

either

in

latter especially pre-

most accurately described by

an ancient prophet, as also the costume of her lovers: " Thou hast

and painted thine eyes; thou hast decked thyself

with ornaments, and seated tlryself upon a stately bed; with a

washed

thyself,

table prepared before

oil.

and

The

it,

whereupon thou hast placed incense and

voice of those that are at ease

rulers of Assyria,

desirable

is

with thee; of captains

young men, clothed gorgeously;

and of Sabeans from the wilderness, which put bracelets upon

their hands, and beautiful crowns upon their heads."
Ostentatious
Surat, as

much

gate from the

splendour and

as in

most oriental

Mogul empire, held

pageantry formerly existed at

cities,

his

where a nabob, or dele-

court.

His durbar was

al-

420
ways an epitome of the imperial arrangements at Agra and Delhi.
These
so

state insignia

much

attracted

avoidable, in

seem

to

be absolutely necessary among people

by outward appearance; and

equally un-

is

some degree, wherever an Englishman

resides in a

public character, vested with a delegated authority, whether he

The people

entitled a governor, a chief, a judge, or a collector.

in general

do not enter

into those distinctions, they consider

Humble,

view him as the representative of the British nation.

was

my own

him

power, and the more enlightened

as intrusted with the executive

as

is

situation in the

Company's

on the general

service,

system at Bombay; and, as collector of Dhuboy, subordinate to

the chief and council at Baioche; yet, being the only English-

man

intrusted

with

civil

authority in the

Dhuboy purgunnas,

lived in the durbar, the residence of their ancient rajahs, pundits,

and governors; and,

as far as

possessed of supreme

the inhabitants could judge,

power and

influence.

often gently reprimanded by the zemindars

was,

and native

was

therefore,
officers, for

leaving the suwarree, or state attendants, at the outer gate of the

cit\r ,

when

took

my

evening excursion, and preferred a walk

the fields, followed by a single peon

smothered

in

and a

faithful dog, to being

dusty roads by an ostentatious cavalcade.

have been as imprudent

to

have been irksome

to

It

have waved the ceremony of

insignia within the precincts of the

in

Dhuboy

durbar, as

it

would
official

would

parade with such incumbrances on a rural

recreation.

At

pomp

time,

this

than

when surrounded by

ten times

had any reason to expect would

often have I wished, and in familiar letters to

fall to

my

more

my

Asiatic
lot,

how

English friends

421
expressed the wish, that
thorn hedge in

ledge

my

my

was enjoying a primrose bank and haw-

With gratitude

native country.

acknow-

wishes have been granted; and few, perhaps, have tasted

the rural pleasures and

happy

vernal delights of this

near thirty years, more than myself, to

whom

island, for

they possess addi-

from having been so long deprived of them.

tional zest

The umbrageous banian

and the sacred groves

trees

at Pul-

parra shared the same fate as those in the surrounding country,

during the

late

storm.

brahminical seminaries

revisited those

me

which had formerly afforded

much

so

delight.

long and

more intimate intercourse with the brahmins and higher

of Hindoos had rather lessened them in
ceived

my

well as in

first
its

my

classes

esteem, since I re-

impressions in this sanctuary; in that respect, as

shady honours,

found Pulparra had

lost

many

of

those charms with which twelve years before I had been so cap-

The

tivated.

lives

of the luxurious priests, the ignorance of the

now appeared not

The unhallowed fires

worshippers, and the penances of the devotees,

only superstitious, but useless and absurd.

were
still

kindled for the innocent female victims; the temples

still

to the higher castes of

open

Hindoos,

poor ehandala and humbled pariar.

is

still

But as the Surat government

longer divided, and the English laws, properly blended

now no

with the Hindoo and Mahornedan codes, are

may hope
nabob

that

will

many

nor do

established,

we

be remedied, and the cremation of Hindoo widows

Bombay
I

now

flagrant abuses in the corrupt durbar of the

be no longer permitted.
island of

shut against the

believe

No woman

for these
this

last

species

fifty

has burnt herself on the

years,

of suicide

to

my

knowledge;

has been allowed

of

422
since the English possessed

Surely, then,

it.

il

may be

gradually

and peaceably abolished wherever Great Britain extends her

Although not one of these infatuated females have im-

fluence.

molated themselves during that long period

fact,

six

in-

Bombay,

in

it is

too well established, that very lately, in the short space of

months, and within the compass of thirty miles round Calcutta,

one hundred and

fifty

sacrificed themselves

what extent

among

this

thirty

government,

it

women, some of them

cruel, destructive,

millions of

and impolitic system prevails

Hindoos subject

would be impossible

Mahomedans,

In

for

me

this

to

for those classes

and

British laws

to determine;

the pro-

estimate of thirty millions

Parsees, nor the warlike tribes and lower

Hindoos are included: the calculation

castes of

To

on the funeral pyre of their husbands.

portion must be painfully great.

neither

virgin widows, have

who, more or

The whole population of the

less,

accede to

British

only intended

is

this destructive tenet.

empire exceeds sixty millions.

Infanticide, as formerly mentioned, has, within these few years,

been exterminated in Guzerat, and thousands of happy mothers,

in all

succeeding ages, when caressing their infant daughters,

bless the

name of Duncan.

Surely, therefore, the horrid spec-

tacle of female suicide will be for ever abolished:

collect,

a widow, but a mother, a daughter, an ornament

life,

all

it

we must
is

re-

not only

in all the relative

that thus dedicates herself to the flames.

The English have introduced

among

for

as instanced in the vizier of Brodera's wife,

situations of

will

the

blessings

descriptions of people in Hindostan.

of vaccination

By which means

the lives of thousands, and tens of thousands, are annually preserved.

In

this

humane undertaking

the

brahmins have

risen

423
under their extensive and powerful

superior to prejudice, and

influence

Many

other castes of Hindoos have adopted the practice.

all

letters

gentlemen

on

subject, from eminent brahmins to medical

this

in India,

liberal sentiments,

do them honour

they

contain

and have been followed by a corresponding

practice.

Mooperal Stremivasachary, a brahmin, thus

Anderson

at

"

Madras on vaccine

beg leave

most

the

Avrites to

inoculation.

to observe, for the information of the natives of

country, that I have perused the papers which you

this

Dr.

have

published on that wonderful, healthful, and immortal vaccine

matter, discovered on the nipple and udders of
land,

by that

many

ing the

in

Eng-

physician Dr. Jenner; whereby the loath-

illustrious

some, painful, and

some cows

small-pox has been prevented from seiz-

fatal

of our fellow-creatures in India,

as

well as in

Europe.
"

am

an eye-witness, as well as many others, that numbers of

children here have been inoculated with vaccine matter, without

any injury or blemish whatsoever, excepting a small spot

place where the matter

arm.

this

rich

applied, which

this

commonly on

the

be acquired by the natives

country, so as to enable them to preserve the lives of the

account,

it

as

well as

might be useful

to

those of low castes.

remove a prejudice

On

in the

this

minds

people, arising from the term cow-pock, being literally

translated comary, in
in our

may

wonderful discovery

and honourable,

of the

is

the

be wished that an intimate know-

It is therefore greatly to

ledge of
of

is

at

the advertisement

Tamul tongue; whereas

which has been published

there can be

no doubt that

it

is

drop of nectar from the exuberant udders of the cows in England,

424
and no way similar
and

to the

humour discharged from

the tongue

feet of diseased cattle in this country.

Moopekal Stkkenivasachaby."

(Signed)

As vaccination
likely to

become a

globe,

may be

it

is

now

and

so generally adopted in Hindostan,

universal blessing in that populous part of the

satisfactory to

mention the following singular

fact,

respecting the antiquity of vaccination in India, taken from the

Asiatic Register for 1804; which

is

altogether a curious and au-

thentic addition to a subject so interesting to humanity.

"

The

fact stated in

memorandum from
was long resident
been known
of India,

is

for

the

the

following translation of a written

nabob Mirza Mehady Ah Khan, who

at Benares, that the effects of vaccination

have

a great length of time in that celebrated quarter

referred to the investigation of those

who have

the

opportunity and ability, since they cannot want the inclination, to

prosecute so interesting an inquiry.

of

this fact,

The undoubted

that vaccination has been practised

intimation

among

the wor-

shippers of Bowannee, will not detract an iota from the merits of

the Jennerian discovery; the fortuitous and

happy circumstance

that led to the discovery in Europe, has been unquestionably

most

and

satisfactorily proved, whilst the anxiety, study, perseverance,

and indefatigable exertions, which have been applied by

its

bene-

volent professor to ensure the conviction of the world, in the un-

bounded

benefit of the discovery,

gratitude of mankind.

only go to afford

The

full

have entitled him

to the lasting

ascertainment of the fact

will

an additional instance of primeval oriental

425
knowledge;

whether acquired or accidental,

proved.

will

It

be hereafter

to

is

only open an additional, neglected mine, for

the curious and the learned;

and

be another proof that the

will

East has been the seat of wisdom " where learning flourished,

and the
this

arts

were prized;" however

knowledge has been treated

much

the neglect with which

may

in this country,

reflect

upon

the modern degeneracy, or the prejudices of the Indian character;

which may, however, be

accounted

all

for,

from the

effects

various revolutions to which their country has, for so

been a prey; leaving thence room

of the

many

ages,

the liberal construction of

to

the unbiassed of every nation to conclude,

that before the intro-

duction of a foreign sway into Hindostan and the Deccan,

Hindoo inhabitants were versed

yond

in

and

the arts

its

sciences, far be-

same remote period of

the other parts of the world, at the

time."

Translation of a written

memorandum from

the nabob

Mirza Meliady

Ali Khan.

my abode

" During the period of

my
my

eldest son being taken

ill

the dictrict of Benares,

in

of a bad kind of the small-pox, and

friends interesting themselves for

my

comfort and

his

relief,

one of them, named Slookum Chund, a Hindoo, pointed out

me

that there was in the city of Benares one

min from Oude, Avhose practice

maJady.

Him,

therefore,

town of Ghazeepoor, where

Alep Choby, a brah-

chiefly

no time

lost
I

was

in

confined

III.

to

this

sending for to the

dwelt; and he arrived on the ninth

day of the eruption; on seeing which, he observed, that

VOL.

to

if

the

426
eruption had not taken place, he would have endeavoured to faci-

and render

litate

Choby what

ing

it

his process

it

was too

was, he said, "

From

On

ask-

the matter of

keep a thread drenched, which enabled

at pleasure, to cause

an easy eruption on any child; adoring,

at the

same time, Bowannee (who

otherwise called Debec, Mata,

is

and Sebla, and who has the direction of

my own

malady) as

this

well in

person, as by causing the father of the child to perform

the like ceremonies; after which

and drawing

child's

upper arm, leave

in both arms,

it

run the drenched string into a

through between the skin and

needle,

there,

it

of the

performing the same operation

child's

customary

goddess rides on

this

such parent or guardian to

for

with grain, which an ass

is

first

father or guardian renews his

worship to Bowannee; and as the animal

ass, it is

flesh

which always ensures an easy eruption; on the

appearance of which, the

an

late.

the pustule on the cow,

me,

now

easy, but that

fill

his

is

lap

These observances

sent to eat up.

ensure the propitious direction of Bowannee, so that only a very

few pustules make

this process."

"

Upon

their

Thus

appearance

far did I learn

nor docs any one die under

from Alep Choby.

referring on this subject to a native, well versed in the

learning and customs of the

tice

Choby was

thus described by

confined to those

Hindoos, he told

who were attached

and adored her with implicit

son whether he was aware
the cow, and whether

a certain description

all
;

faith;

how

not general
to the

me

that the prac-

among them, but

worship of Bowannee,

and upon

my

asking the per-

the matter of the pustule got from

cows had such pustules, or only those of

he answered, that on these points he pos-

sessed no information, but had certainly understood that the

cows

427
had these puslules break out on them, and that from the matter
thereof children were infected; acknowledging, however, that he

spoke not

this

much from

ocular knowledge, but from report/'

Mr. John Underwood,

who

relation of mine,

resided

his

hospitality

and

classes of the natives

many

his

his

and every artery and vein were

correct idea of the course of circulation,

The

rajah was

enabled him to pursue

his

much

and the

gratified

acknowledgement of

rajah to Mr.

this

in

The

delight,

and

following letter,

a Hindoo prince, indicates

and enlightened;

liberal

by a present which

valuable present, was written by the

Underwood; which,

a mind unusually

carefully in-

insertion of seve-

studies with increased

rendered him more useful in his sovereignty.

in

rajah of

This preparation would give him a

jected with coloured wax.

muscles.

Surfojee,

profes-

Mr. Underwood sent the rajah a

fond of studying anatomy.

ral

and

all

benevolent character, and particularly

Tavjore, a most amiable

the heart

a me-

own countrymen

universal benevolence

sional abilities, frequently corresponded with

body where

in

and highly esteemed by

social virtues,

for

Madras

years at

and respected by

dical capacity, beloved

for

a valuable friend and near

senior,

sufficient to

a lively hope towards the advancement of

encourage

literature,

art,

and

science; extending ultimately, perhaps, to establish Christianity

in that part of Hindostan,

tant churches;

where there are already several protes-

for Surfojee, rajah

of Tanjorc, was the friend and

patron of Swartz, for near half a century the apostolical missionary of Coromandel

wisdom of

whose prudent

zeal truly

blended the

the serpent with the innocence of the dove.

doo sovereign shed

tears at

the death

The Hin-

of his venerable christian

428
friend,

and covered

cade.

On

his

remains with a splendid pall of gold bro-

the establishment of the Native Hospital at Madias, id

1799> under the immediate care of Mr. Underwood, senior,

benevolent sovereign sent two

hundred pounds

this

thousand pagodas, about eight

sterling, to assist the institution.

Letter from Surfojee, Rajah ofTaiijtfre, to John Underwood, Esq. at

Fort St. George.

" I
of

it

have yielded

book alluded
*'

received your

me

inexpressible

to in the letter

some time ago; the contents

letter

The box and

pleasure.

have likewise been safely received.

The human body, of which

the origin appears to have been

wrought by the Supreme Being himself, the frame of which

posed to have afforded satisfaction even to
chief object of

which
light

my

its

long imitation and inquiry.

this topic;

which you have sent

hence
to

tion.

it

The books with

well preserved,

and

it is

me

but a faint

me, has afforded me the greatest pleasure,

so unexpectedly from

Upon examining

sup-

need not say, that the preparation

especially as I have long been desirous to see

receiving

is

Maker, has been the

have been conversant have spread before

upon

the

one of

this

you has redoubled

every part of

it,

kind: the

my

satisfac-

found the muscles to be

worthy of the inspection of every lover of

philosophy.

" The book of anatomy which you have been so obliging as to

send me,

is

also well

calculated for the students to profit by.

request you will accept of

my

thousand thanks for the trouble you

429
have taken
ful

forwarding

in

and pleasing

me

the above tilings, which are very use-

to

Surfojee, Rajah."
Tanjore, 5th July, 1806.

Not being myself sufficiently competent

to elucidate the subject

of medicine, as practised by the natives of India,

Underwood
ment

to give

in that part

voured

me

me some

requested Mr.

account of the general mode of

of the world.

treat-

In consequence of which he

fa-

with the following statement, which I introduce with

great satisfaction, from

supplied from

marks

its filling

my own

knowledge.

volumes on the

in these

up a desideratum
I

state

am

could not have

indebted for

many

re-

of medicine and music in

India to writers of more experience and ability.

my

I confess

ignorance in both these subjects, and have therefore availed

m\ seIf
T

of better information.
" It appears to Europeans that the natives of India are ex-

tremely ignorant in the practice of physic

dies, chiefly roots

of powders.

who

sit

The

they have

many reme-

and herbs, which are generally given

practitioners are poor

men

in the

form

of a particular caste,

by the side of the high roads and market paths, with small

boxes, containing various kinds of powder, which

is

administered

with particular instructions, and a promise of cure in a specific

number of

dom

days.

In

all

complaints they enforce abstinence,

sel-

allowing the patient any other nourishment than thin conjee,

or rice gruel.

In certain diseases they give cinnabar, occasionally

with success; but the improper use of

tions to spread to a very great extent.

it

frequently causes ulcera*

430
"

The

natives are extremely bigoted to their

own

down from

without improvement or alteration, are handed

to son, through succeeding

apply
less

generations.

remedies, which,

They

therefore seldom

of Europeans until the case appears hope-

for the assistance

from their own prescriptions.

They do not

bleed, nor perform

any surgical operation, unless the removal of a part

divided.

AH

father

cases of fractures

partially

and dislocations are consigned

mak-

the potters; a caste of people abounding in Hindostan, for

and cooking

ing the water-jars

The

used.

to

utensils of red clay, so universally

potter places the limb of his patient in what he consi-

ders the best situation, and then covers the part affected with

moist clay

this

when dry

rixes

ment simple and compound

the limb, and under such treat-

fractures often

do

be expected from this process, distortions and

well: but, as

stiff

joints are

may
more

frequently the consequence.

" For spasmodic affections the natives

apply the juice of the milk-bush
like

blister.

In

more

tery; from this cause

ing

men, especially

burthens,

marked

it

serious
is

to the parts affected,

common

many

which acts

cases they use the actual

cau-

to see horses, oxen, labour-

palanquin-bearers,

in

of India generally

and

places by a hot

porters
iron.

of

heavy

Notwith-

standing the liberal mind and singular propensity of the Tanjore sovereign, already mentioned,

medical practitioners should

ledge of anatomy

cannot be expected that these

general acquire any accurate

know-

and the heat of the climate operates powerfully

against their possessing

Much

in

it

any extensive information from

dissection.

however may be acquired from preparations.

" Although

have no high opinion of the general mode of

431
practice

among

the natives, yet in a few instances I should give a

preference to their remedies, particularly in the ophthalmia, or sore-

The inflammation

eye of India.
sight

is

frequently runs so high that the

some

destroyed, unless by

deeply rooted, can be removed.

early application of

medy;" which

is

tion of

going

is

best

done by an

Madras the " country

made by burning a

little

re-

alum on a

with lime juice by a spatula into a paste.

it

surprising

among
I

to rest,

and washed

off in the

morning with a decoc-

This I consider the best and most cer-

tamarind leaves.

remedy

"

the affection, so

applied over both eye-lids, to the extent of the circle of the

is

orbit, at

tain

means

This I think

called at

is

a thin paste,

hot iron, and mixing

This

what

active

a disease that so repeatedly causes blindness

for

number of

the

natives are entirely blind, especially

the poor.

Mahomedan

have often seen a

practitioner perform the

He made

operation of removing a cataract.

a small puncture

with the point of a lancet, immediately behind the

iris,

into

which

he introduced a particular instrument, so guided as to depress the

cataract.
as

it

This operation

occasions

less

I prefer to

injury to the eye."

The preceding appears

to

medical and surgical practice

and

believe the

Ragobah's campaign

among

in

When

held both by Hindoos and

in

is

the natives of

Coromandel

generally, or nearly, adopted

with the Mahratta arm}' during

Guzerat,

knowing the high estimation

ill,

be a clear and brief statement of

same system

throughout Hindostan.

selves seriously

any other mode yet practised,

had frequent opportunities of

which the English physicians were

Mahomedans, when they thought them-

or wished to procure their advice even for their

432
whom, indeed, they were nol

females,

formed

their

judgment of

the disorder

often permitted

by

persuade a brahmin

to

It certainly

mingle Peruvian

to

bark, or any other medicine, with wine or distilled spirits

dients he

As

was accustomed

to,

would not be attended with

to the other castes, in general, provided they are

prescription

is

to effect a cure, or

ingre-

difficulty.

persuaded the

prove a stimulus, they wave the

ceremony of being very particular

Among some

but to

compounded with any

take the drug in simple water, or

but

feeling the patient's pulse

with the arm admitted through a perforated curtain.

would be no easy matter

to see;

in their inquiries.

curiosities at Surat, I

had an opportunity of

see-

ing a few more of the zodiac rupees in good preservation, but could

not meet with any for

on a former occasion,

sale.
I

When

these singular coins occurred

had not read Lord Valentia's

travels,

otherwise I might have acquired some light from a note in the

appendix.
his

In

his

journey from Calcutta to the northern

districts,

Lordship only mentions having procured one of the zodiac

mohurs

at Benares,

which were now so extremely

impossible to purchase a complete

set.

In the note

that the tradition of their having been coined by

press of Jehangheer,
research,

who

is

rare, that
it is

it

was

remarked,

Noor Jehan, em-

discredited by the natives of science

and

rather imagine that the emperor, on the celebration

of his birth or reign, ordered medals to be struck, with the sign of

the zodiac in which the sun was

which

his long reign,

would

easily

when such anniversary occurred

and the difference of solar and lunar years,

have allowed to pass throughout the whole number.

Lord Valentia seems persuaded they were intended

not for a curreut coin.

Some

for medals,

of them have this inscription

and

433
" The

face of gold received

" From Jehangheer

ornament

in

Agra,

Shah, the son of Akber."

mentioned the great alteration which a few years had occa-

sioned at Surat, and assigned the cause.

much

greater variation in the society

without such apparent reason.

moval of the

civil

I certainly observed a

and manners

at

Bombay,

constant fluctuation by the re-

and military servants from one settlement

to

another, the influx of strangers in a large sea-port town, with other

local circumstances, always occasioned

some change

in society

but whether from an extension of the military establishment, a

considerable increase in the female circle from Europe, or from

what other cause

know

not, there

was a material alteration

English character at the Presidency.

That

conviviality, so delightful in former times.

and

may not
me by a

be thought invidious,

and

Etiquette, ostentation,

had too generally supplanted the urbanity,

formality,

in the

I insert part

friendship,
this

remark

of a letter written to

very discerning friend, about the same period, after an

absence of seven years, in a retired part of Guzerat.

" I

know your

no longer the same place

the

little

Presidency

is

as

when

and entertainments,

from intruding

and you too

and

itself,

much
I

lively,

satisfaction

allow that

and

but at

it is

have

all

the

could not prevent the thought

plainly see all the

more valuable

ties

of friendship

an ostentatious vanity, which aukuardly

endeavours to assume their semblance.

III.

opinion

that the high polish had debased the material,

affection, sacrificed to

VOL.

my

in

I last resided here.

become very gay and

passed a few weeks here with

pleasures

Bombay, but

partiality for

It

has

its

merits,

and

434
renders society polite and agreeable; but, alas!

of sentiment, so pleasing

each other.

the

But

this

and on your

is

those

in

you

arrival

left

esteem and regard

really

community, not the

will find

be long before you and yours are

is

who

the error of the

same worthy characters you

peace

how

insipid,

from that intercourse of mind, that confidential exchange

different

dual

how

indivi-

most of your friends there

them.

among them

suppose
;

it

not

will

Mahratta

for this

Happy

a sad stroke to the service on this side of India.

those who, expelled from their honourable and delightful situations

in

Guzerat, are able to return to their native country, blessed with

Dallon and yourself have wisely made

health and independence.

up your minds

to quit India,

and accompany your amiable

on the voyage her health has long impelled her

most sincerely wish

could

cerns are too extensive, and

might have been prepared

districts to the

make one

my

to

in

peace.

to undertake.

of the party, but

fortune insufficient.

con-

However we

Peshwa government, the giving up Baroche and

is

its

a death-blow to our

Guzerat, and the whole a sad purchase for an inglorious

However

particular case,

may,

am

service in general,

as an individual, reconcile

greatly concerned for the

who

will feel

haps than they are aware

of,

Sultaun, in which

confess I

to

it

longer per-

present contest with Tippoo

not very sanguine.

" The volumes of manuscripts and drawings you lent

me

with regret

the greatest
I

amusement, and

finished the last

my own

we can acquire some perma-

in the

am

it

younger part of the

the consequences of

unless

nent establishments in Malabar,

afforded

my

expect the cession of the conquered

valuable purgunna to Mhadajee Sindia,

hopes

sister

me have

can assure you

page of your descriptive

it

was

letters.

435
You must pardon me

commands

for transgressing jr our

the perusal of the early part of your correspondence.

wished

know your juvenile

to

juvenile efforts of your pencil

well

know

apology

am

but I

I confess I

sentiments, as well as to behold the

and without

may

not addicted) I

am

respecting

which you

flattery (to

venture to say they need no

of opinion that both by your descriptions and

drawings, you have so beautified this side of India that

know

it

again.

And

may

perhaps

" I

however

that

did not find

it

before.

have wanted observation

be, that I

Chesterfield says,

hardly

now, surprised into a belief that these things

wonder

are really so, I only

or, as

have looked without seeing."

you have

licence, in the

The

fact

Lord

believe

double capacity of poet and

painter."

Had Bombay

retained

all its

former hospitality and urbanity,

the influx of so large a proportion of civil servants from the northern

settlements in Guzerat, without

employment

or suitable mainte-

The

military, as already

nance, was a very unpleasant reflection.

noticed, were ordered to other garrisons,

hardship.

It

was very

any provision

for

suffered

no pecuniary

different with the civilians; to

Presidency offered neither pleasure,

there

and

them

profit,

them the

nor usefulness; nor was

at the southern subordinates.

Our

hopes in India being thus extinguished, we looked forwards to

England

where, withdrawn

camps and

senates,

from pageantry and ostentation, into the

bosom of family and domestic

mainder of our days
lights

from the fatigue and anxiety of

comforts,

we might

in rural tranquillity, enjoying the

pass the re-

supreme de-

of a peaceful mind, and a conscience void of offence.

436

We

'*

Toss'd through tempestuous seas, the voyage o'er,

"

Pale,

we look

buck, and bless the trembling shore J"

found the population

Bombay

of*

The

and constantly increasing.

very

much

increased,

troubles on the continent

had

compelled many to seek an asylum from the calamities of war;

personal security and protection of property, under the British

was another great inducement

flag,

while a flourishing

commerce

and many other causes allured a number of merchants

their fluctuating

situations

settlement on this

little

in other places, for

rocky island

a more permanent

which to the higher

Hindoos has some peculiar inconveniences, and

classes of every description,

must be

far

to leave

to

tribes

of

the lower

more expensive than any

part of the continent.

most kinds of provisions was nearly doubled since

knew Bombay; but there appeared no deficiency either of

The
I first

price of

or Indian commodities.

European

well stored with articles for luxury

the world

The shops

in the bazar

and comfort from

and every breeze wafted a

fresh

supply.

lation of public expenditure since

my

more

so since

mate

in 1804, the

fifteen

departure.

my

arrival

But

and

still

According to Lord Valentia's

esti-

monthly outgoings of Bombay amounted

lacs of rupees,

annum

although

making one hundred and eighty

its

lacs,

to

or

sterling

whole annual revenue, including the

late cessions in Guzerat, did not

thousand pounds.

if pri-

accumu-

in India,

upwards of two millions two hundred thousand pounds

per

parts of

all

vate expenses were thus increased, great indeed was the

were

exceed forty

lacs, or five

hundred

437
The

island of

Bombay

now no

should

longer be considered as

a settlement, or separate colony, but as the metropolis (surrounded

indeed by a large moat) of an extensive domain.
only twenty

miles in

towns of Surat and Ahmedabad

with

city, similar to the outer

smaller indeed by eight miles in

circumference than the latter in the zenith of her glory, and

much
I

less

am

than London at

among

crimes and punishment.

thesis,

day.

Bombay

the natives a proportionate increase of

This

it

may

be alleged

is

a general hypo-

and a necessary consequence of increased population

in

but wishing to

be

every country
impartial,

some

there certainly are exceptions

and on

dian character,

and

this present

sorry to add, that as the Indian population of

increased, there was

in

this island,

circumference, and almost covered

houses and gardens, will soon become a

its

For

all

occasions to draw a true portrait of the In-

cannot avoid adverting once more

late publications respecting

to the assertions

Indian morality

in general,

to the virtues ascribed to the servants in particular.

One

re-

spectable writer has thought proper to place the native servants in

a very superior point of view, to the same class of society

land.

in

Eng-

cannot subscribe to such general eulogy: with heartfelt

pleasure I have mentioned the fidelity and attachment of our

family servants, and introduced several of their

since our arrival in

England; yet

letters,

own

received

can neither coincide

in the

preference given to the Asiatic over the British character, nor can
I sanction the circulation of such an opinion.
is

On

the contrary

it

well known, that notwithstanding the preference given by the

inhabitants of Baroche to the British government, and their affect-

ing exclamation on the tears of

Heaven

at our departure, that from

438
Lullabhy, the great

a greater or

mozumdar of that purgunna, and extending

degree from him through the revenue depart-

lesser

appointments,

ment and other

eivil

fraud, prevailed

among

the

evil propensities prevailed

native officers, with the exception of

not only

among

of mutiny and desertion

spirit

and

self-interest, ingratitude,

Dowlut Roy, Dessoy, and a few other amiable

out into a

in

These

characters.

those classes, but broke

among

the sepoy corps

with deceit, peculation, and robbery, in the lower orders of society,

reaching to the

Baroche servants employed

were not to accompany us

sisted

by

plate,

and

Bombay.

to

in

The head

his labourers, contrived to carry off

to conceal

in the steep

it

mentioned on a former occasion.

boy, during the short interval

commanding

officer

gardener, as-

a heavy iron chest of

banks of the Nerbudda, as

After

my

departure from

me

sent

constant and grievous

complaints of the native troops employed in those

districts.

Baroche some were blown from the cannon's mouth

for

Here

my

it

was no longer safe

must beg leave

to insert the

possession, which strongly

to

At

mutiny

and desertion: and such was the general depravity previous

departure, that

Dhu-

continued at Baroche, the English

Dhuboy

at

who

our family,

to

our

remain at our garden-house.

copy of an authentic

letter in

marks the character of the Indian

sepoys, in a different part of the Company's possessions, and shews

the necessity of vigilance, discipline, and discretion, with a corps
necessarily

The
a

letter

employed
was written

command under an
"

ral

was

in

immense numbers, under our government.

to

a friend, by an officer

Asiatic prince.

yesterday not a

Bengal sepoys

who had accepted

to give

little

surprised to be solicited by seve-

them employ.

Upon

inquiry

found, to

439

my

utter astonishment, they were all deserters,

Upwards

Bengal, with their arms and accoutrements complete.

of

fifty

are already come,

very shortly.

It

and they expect more

natural to suppose that

is

some persons are em-

be surprised to see whole battalions following

European

Mahraltas

firelocks

supplied by your

will

have very

little

their

arms

own people;

now upwards

Tippoo may render many

know

nor shall I

At

example.

from any other nation, when they are so well

in this

respect they

my

may

you

bid

certain

know-

of seventy thousand stand of English

in different depots, belonging

satisfaction

occasion to purchase

defiance in case of any future rupture; for to

ledge they have

them

to join

ployed from hence to entice them from their colours

this rate the

from

lately arrived

useless

to

The war with

the sircar.

on both

for as to the loss of the sepoys I

sides,

which

esteem

it

is

some

nothing, as

the Purveea caste are the most mutinous and cowardly

fellows in India, having

ordered for Madras.

them again
possession,

into the

had

sufficient demonstration

Many

of them when

plans might be adopted to entice

company's service; and when once

your

in

you may secure the arms, and discharge the scoundrels

with infamy, or even a more severe punishment."

I

have introduced

stances,

this letter

and

stated the preceding circum-

from a necessity of establishing

assertions,

facts, instead

where the moral character of the two nations

into competition

and the conclusion intended

to be

of making
is

brought

drawn

is

evi-

dently to evince that the moral and religious tendency of Christianity

is

not superior

to

the code of

Menu,

or the laws of the

Koran.
1

have on another occasion mentioned

Sir

James Mackintosh's

440
charge to the grand jury at Bombay, where he introduces Sir William

same

Jones's opinion of Indian depravity; another part of the

charge from

this excellent

judge more than confirms

said on this unpleasant subject

"

The

that I have

all

and

difference of language

manners, and perhaps the hostile prejudices of

many

of the natives,

render the detection of crimes, and increase the chances of total

we cannot

a proportion which

concealment

in

but which we

know

to

be very great

much

exactly calculate,

of what passes amongst

the lowest natives must be involved in a darkness impenetrable to

the eyes of the most vigilant police.

is

ascertained the

the criminal
ation,

which

same

and even
is

After the existence of a crime

obstacles stand in the

after

he

perfectly

is

town

that of a large

which an experienced offender would

concealment, and the

facility

in

way of identifying

known, our

local situ-

a small territory,

that

is

select for the opportunity of

of escape; and such

is

the unfortu-

nate prevalence of the crime of perjury, that the hope of impunity

is

not extinguished by the apprehension of the delinquent;

this

you add the supine acquiescence of many English inhabitants

in the peculations of their

domestic servants, which, from an opinion

of the rooted depravity of the natives, we seem

vices

were immutable and

you add

also

ihose

inflexible, like the

summary

that I

upon as if their

And

chastisements, which are, in

you

will

if

my

not wonder

do not consider the records of the criminal court as a mea-

sure of the guilt of the community.

of Europeans, however
exaggeration,

with."

to look

laws of nature.

opinion, almost always useless as examples,

tial

if to

is

much

Indeed the universal testimony

may

suspect occasional and par-

an authority too strong for

me

to struggle

441
After a variety of sound reasoning and good policy, this excellent recorder thus closes his charge

a charge which bears a

testimony to the British character in India, opposed to

forts

of senatorial eloquence

am

" I

men, you

the ef-

prove the contrary.

convinced, that both as jurors and as private gentlewill

always consider yourselves as intrusted,

mote region of the

which

to

all

true

I trust

earth, with the

in this re-

honour of that beloved country,

becomes more dear

to you, as I

me, during every new moment of absence

am

sure

it

does to

that in your intercourse

with each other, as well as with the natives of India, you will

keep unspotted the ancient character of the British nation,

nowned

in

re-

every age, and in no age more than in the present, for

valour, for justice, for

which supports,

humanity and generosity,

as well as for every talent

for every virtue

and accomplishment

which adorns, human society!"

Mr. Gambier, the former chief of Baroche, having completed

his fortune,

myself.
little

took his passage for England in the same ship with

His successor, Mr. Nalsey, who enjoyed that situation

more than a

year, and

had

it

not in

his

power

to leave India,

was, on his return from Baroche, appointed chief of Salsette.

After being settled at Tannah, he invited a party of his Baroche
friends to the durbar,

where we were hospitably entertained

some days, and passed our time

for

as happily as a retrospection of

evanescent pleasures in Guzerat, and the idea of a speedy separation,

would allow.

come a

flourishing

Tannah,
town

the capital of Salsette,

the fortifications had been repaired, the

Mahratta houses improved or

rebuilt

by the English gentlemen,

and the durbar rendered a commodious residence.

VOL. III.

had then be-

442
From Tannah we made a

pleasant excursion, in palanquins, to

the inland mountains, to revisit the excavated temples and singular

habitations, formerly described

Tannah

to

Bombay, took a

the island of Elephanta

and on our returning voyage from

view of the far-famed caverns on

last

scenes

which always

renewed astonishment, followed by a

tions, I shall

unknown

not proceed again on the same ground

Hindoo Pantheon
on which

on

train of ideas

mind with
in other

Having formerly described these wonderful excava-

situations.

shall

the

fill

it

some objects

illustrates

was not then

this farewell visit

my power

in

in those

throw

to

but as the

gloomy

regions,

sufficient light, I

introduce two or three satisfactory re-

marks from that valuable work, which coincides

almost every intelligent person

in opinion with

conversed with on the spot, that

the Elephanta was not always a small island of only five or six

miles in circumference, but was formerly joined to the contiguousislands,

and to the continent

a channel more than a mile

in

from which

it

is

now

disjoined

by

In the spacious harbour

breadth."

formed by the islands of Caranjah, Colaba, Bombay, Salsette, and

the continent, several smaller rocky islands are scattered, bearing

of course different names; but which

deem formerly

been only one, and probably under one designation

well have been that

by a
Its

little

retained by

Bombay,

island, close to the latter, that

Hindoo name

Island.

still

It is

low

is

we

or

to

have

which might

by Elephanta, or

call Butcher's Island.

Deva-devy, the island of the gods, or Holy

less

the direction of Salsette.

than a mile I think from the Elephanta, in

The

island of

Bombay

brahmins Maha-maha-devij, or Maha-maha-deya.

thet of grandeur, and, as applied

is

called

Maha

is

by the
an epi-

to a person, of pre-eminence.

443
Maha-maha-deva-devy may,

Mahadeva,

therefore, be interpreted the island of

or the Great-great

principally honoured in

God,

or

now on

chief temple,

its

Siva; that deity being

the

island

little

of Elephanta, where monstrous lingas, evidently and necessarily

coeval with the excavation, and gigantic statues of him and his
consort, indicate his
city of caves, is the

paramount adoration."

name by which

Gharipuri, or the

the natives identify the Ele-

phanta.

Not
must

to enter into

common

strike every

Siva under

any new

different forms

ples of the Elephanta,

"

beforementioned.

compared by
where
Siva

is

is,

Sir

is

and

detail of the

the most striking feature in the tem-

confirms Major Moor's idea

so far

Siva and Jove," he

Jove seen combined with

"

Progenitor, genetrixque."

" Of gods,

deities

some of

but no

is

however

following verse

eye of a painter:

father and mother, both

Lettehs on Mythology.

and men, and things."

their multifarious characters

most of the Hindoo

might be identified with Jove or Jupiter; where,

poetical language of the

child

in the creative

Jupiter omnipotens, rerum, regumque, deumque,

Almighty Jove

The

father.

"

"

Jove

Parvati.

that

is,

world, he

is

called

in the

Saturn's youngest

the latest production of Time.

" The comparison between Siva and Jove runs parallel in

instances.

been

any female, as

his spouse, or

and sculptures, with

might warrant such a combination

in

observes, " have

William Jones and other mythologists

in pictures

it

that the representation of

observer,

sometimes called mother as well as

And

Hindoo mythology,

many

In the capacity of avenger and destroyer, Jove over-

444
whom Typhon, Briareus, Sec. led
Olympus, to whom an eagle brought lightning

threw the Titans and giants,

against the

god of

and thunder-bolls during the warfare. In a similar conlest between

who

Siva and the Daityas, or children of Diti,

against heaven,
struction
court,

with

Brahma
fiery

and held

his councils

the chief of the deities,

rocks

snowy

is

As

shafts.

the appropriated seat of

is

Olympian Jupiter

lofty

and

brilliant

fixed

his

mountain, so

Mahadeva, whom the Saivas consider

Mount

Cailasa

His

as

every splinter of whose

bounds are on the

terrestrial

of Himilaya, or that branch of them to the east of the

which has the name of Chandrasichara, or the

Brahmaputra,

When,

mountains of the moon.

find Siva with three eyes,

know from

the

on a

an inestimable gem.

hills

have presented the god of de-

said to

is

frequently rebelled

after

whence he

these circumstances,
is

named Trilochan

we
and

Pausanias, not only that Triopthalmos was an epithet

of Zeus, but that a statue of

him had been found,

so early as the

taking of Troy, Avith a third eye in his forehead, as we see him

represented by the Hindoos,

of the two gods

falls little

we must conclude

that the identity

short of being demonstrated.

" In the character of destroyer

also,

we may look upon

this

Indian deity as corresponding with the Stygian Jove, or Pluto

especially since Caii, or Time, in the feminine gender,

of his consort,

" There

is

who

will

is

name

be found to be Proserpine.

yet another attribute of

Mahadeva, by which he

is

too visibly distinguished in the drawings and temples of Bengal.

To

destroy, according to the Vedantis of India, the Sufis of Persia,

and many philosophers of our European schools,

rate

and reproduce

in another form.

Hence

the

is

only to gene-

god of destruc-

445
tion presides over generation

white bull.

Can we doubt

as a

symbol of which he

rides

on a

that the loves and feasts of Jupiter

Genitor, (not forgetting the white bull of Europa) and his extraor-

dinary

title

of Lapis, for which no satisfactory reason

commonly

philosophy and

given, have a connection with the Indian

thology

is

my-

" Obelisks and

of whatever shape, are symbols of

pillars,

Ma-

hadeva; as are more especially pyramids, and any thing conical.

Hence

the custard-apple, or ramphul, as lately mentioned in the

gardens at Surat, from

and

appropriated to Siva.

is

pyramidal shape
representative,

"

conical form, takes a religious character,

its

To

Siva

Mahadeva

is

Fire

the conical or

the natural form of fire; hence applied to

is

its

and symbolized by a triangle apex upwards.

is

given three eyes, probably to denote his view of

the three divisions of time, the past, the present, and the future.

A crescent

on

his

forehead pourtrays the measure of time by the

phases of the moon.

measure of time by
skulls,

serpent forms a necklace, to denote ;he

A second

3'ears.

necklace* formed of

marks the lapse and revolution of ages, and the extinction

He

and succession of the generations of mankind.

to

shew

united
like

human

that the three great attributes are in

in

another hand

an hour-glass; and

imtended as such, since

and a sand gheri

is

of measuring time.

is

I
it

a kind of

am

it

damaru, shaped

really

was at

first

agrees with the character of the deity

mentioned in the

all

things,

one of the modes

Sastra,. as

In the hieroglyphic

rand consummation of

him assembled and

rattle, called

inclined to think

holds a trident,,

of

Maha

when Time

Pralaya,

itself shall

or.

be no

446
more, he

is

Maha

represented as trodden under foot by

Cal, or

Eternity."

many

In these extracts

things bear a resemblance to prominent

features in the history of the

common

vious to a

Old Testament.

They must be ob-

observer, and, like similar

passages in the

Egyptian and Grecian mythology, might no doubt be

rily

traced to that primeval source

but

satisfacto-

I shall close these

remarks

with an account of that singular composition, formerly most absurdly called the

Judgment of Solomon, which contains

and appropriate emblems of Siva.

in

a strong

This compartment, from being

very conspicuous in the Elephanta temple,

light, is

and seems more than any other

to

have engaged the attention of

Major Moor thus happily

travellers.

the figure

rent truth and precision

illustrates

which seems

to leave

it,

no

with an appa-

room

further

for

conjecture.

The compartment containing

character of
is

on the

Maha

the group, in which Siva, in the

Cala, or Eternity,

makes the

principal figure,

" It

Elephanta temple.

right of the entrance in' the

is

of

Siva Vindex, fourteen feet high, but his lower extremities broken
off.

His attention

aspect

is

avenging

terrific,

act.

stretched up,
it

from

His

indicating the immediate execution of

some

He had
and

attitude, turned to his

left.

is,

his

eight arms

the superior right

and

left

either supporting a cloth or curtain, or puilino-

over the terrible event he threatens; the fingers grasp the cloth

the left upstretched

elbow
ing

left

arm

his next right

is

hand

finely executed, the right

is

broken at the wrist

broken at the

the correspond-

holds a bell, in good preservation, over a cup in the palm

447
of the next, having a serpent twining round near the elbow.
third right

two

hand grasps a long

inferior hands, right

they were in bolder

and

relief,

straight sword, uplifted, perfect; the

left are.

and

the

broken off above the elbow

left

appears to have supported,

or to have grasped the leg of a kneeling figure, the trunk of which

only remains,
kneeling figure
its

back

as to

is

drop

its

legs,

arms, and head being broken

may have been between

five

and

six feet in height;

towards the threatener, and leaning so in

its

blood,

if spilled, into

head of the principal

the

This

off.

his direction

cup before noticed.

The

a highly ornamented cap, not

figure has

unlike those worn some years ago by grenadiers: a skull and ser-

pent are among

its

frontal ornaments.

necklace, and a long chaplet,

human

the

may be

has also a pendant

composed of

so called,

heads, of which only two or three are plainly discernible,

flowing over the

left

The zennaar,

off.

if it

It

same

shoulder to the right thigh, where

direction.

in

On

all

any preservation

him.

On

faces,

expressive of pity.

the

broken

or holy thread, and a broader belt, run in nearly

the wrists are bracelets,

and above the

No

figures

to the right of the principal, or

under

elbow of three of the arms are bazubands, or armlets.

remain

it is

left,

near the supposed victim, are two bearded

compassionate female

is

just above

them, leaning forward over the victim; she holds her scarf
hands, and

is

an elegant person.

Below the bearded men are two

or three females, with pitying aspects.

mingled with

terror,

is

in her

The same emotion

inter-

evident in every face of this compartment,

whose features can be traced.

" Over the subjects just described
females,

of rather

is

a row of males and

diminutive size: in the middle of the row.

448
nearly over the head of Siva,
cut deep into

it,

a thing like a mitre, with a crozier

is

and surmounted with a

cross; but the limbs of

Two

the cross not exactly at right angles.

aged and emaciated

males are on the right (the spectator's right) of the mitre, holding

up

their hands,

betokening pity and pain; on the other side of

the mitre are two similar figures.

male

trate distressed
last

mentioned

pair,

in great anxiety

"

Near

this

and

In front of each pair

a pros-

heads near the mitre; beyond the

child, their

on the spectator's
distress,

is

left,

are a male

and female

holding scarfs in their hands.

compartment, but advanced into the body of the

cave, so as not to be interposed,

is

a room, twenty-two feet square,

with a door in each face; and on each side the door a gigantic

male

figure, in

stature sixteen feet, highly

ornamented;

this

room

contains a monstrous linga, plainly indicating for whose worship

this

temple was intended.

the caves of Elcphanta,

it

is

But neither

this,

nor any other part of

used as a temple, by modern Hindoos;

has no establishment of brahmins, or endowments: but neigh-

bouring individuals make occasional offerings of prayers and oblations.

rice

have seen the lingas adorned with recent flowers; and

on the yoni at the foot of

it.

Brahmins generally disregard

imperfect images; the sad mutilations at Elephanta

therefore, have caused their neglect of

may

well,

it.

" It has been said in support of some hypothesis, that the

Vedas and Puranas, the sacred books of the Hindoo, make no

mention of

this

cavern temple.

But who has

sufficiently

those wonderful volumes to be enabled to say so?

Sanscrit scholars have given us

many

examined

Several of our

surprising things that they

do contain; but a knowledge of what they do not contain,

or,

in other

words, of

all

that ihcy do, will

" Wherever

of laborious examination.

Hindoo

literature," said

Sir

direct our attention to

life

would not be

hundred thousand stanzas

for the perusal of near five

ranas, with a million

we

more perhaps,

in

"

what has been heard from

The

island of Salsette

Shaster; which
in

is

it

its

is

known

and

natives, called Shasta, or

having formerly contained that number

it

must, however, have had a

advance of prosperity; and

was, and

Pu-

supposed to be derived from She-aster; meaning

Mahraty, eighty-six,

of villages;

in the

revelation.

by the

is,

sufficient

other works; meaning the

books on divine knowledge, called veda, or what

sruti, or

years

William Jones, " the notion of in-

and the longest

finity presents itself;

demand many more

it is

meaning; neither

name

prior to such an

worth while to inquire what

is it

it

would

likely that such a point

supersede any prior name, any more than originally give one.

This fine and interesting island

gical,

botanical,

in these,

and

offers a rich harvest to

and mythological

mineralo*

inquiries; until lately,

in every other respect of policy

and

it

interest,

has,

been

sadly neglected."

The climate of
bay;

many

Salsette

is

not reckoned so salubrious as

causes are assigned, especially the quantity of jungle,

or wood-land,

still

the stagnant pools

remaining uncleared; to which

cleared, the marshes drained,

can be no doubt of their

jungle, or marsh-fever,
the

young cadets
VOL. HI.

may be added

and marshes of rank vegetation, besides very

extensive tracts of land yet uncultivated.

is

Bom-

When

underwood

and agriculture encouraged, there

effects in meliorating the

is

the

more common

sent over, on

their
3

atmosphere. The

at Salsette than

first

arrival

Bombay:

from Europe, to

450
Versovah and other places on
from their deleterious

this

effects.

During the whole of

my

residence in India,

never had a more

alarming fever, than I was formerly seized with

cave at Salsette, when

much

island, frequently sutler

in the principal

had been travelling two days

in

a palan-

quin, through the lower parts of the island, after the rainy season

before the vapours

were sufficiently exhaled from the stagnant

on

marshes and putrid vegetables

doubly enjoyed the

interest

their

and beauty of

borders.
this

therefore

wonderful scenery

on the present occasion, when blessed with health, and surrounded

by a

At

social party of both sexes, sharing in every pleasure.

same time

would observe, that

great temple, a pensive stroll

mountains,

is

the

after sufficiently reposing in the

among

preferable for a stranger

these

solitary

and

silent

he should leave the com-

panions of his journey for an hour, to enjoy alone the peculiar

sensations,

on beholding a

city not built b}r

man, but excavated

from the rocks; immense temples not erected by human hands,

but hewn inch by inch within a mountain of granite,
exact proportion.

Adorned with elegant and

ingly to support a noble concave roof.

its

gigantic images of Boodha, or

some

logy.

in basso relievo,

He

lofty pillars,

The temple indeed

most

seem-

contains

magnificent portico stand the

only an amazing lingam, but in

ments

in the

great deity, with compart-

of various subjects in the Hindoo mytho-

ascends from thence, by numerous steps cut in the rock

leading from one range of habitations to another, excavated in the

same manner, with verandas,

cisterns,

and other conveniences

for

a large population: he treads the whole in silence, and meets no

other inhabitant than birds, bats, and

bees; unless, perchance.

451
(as has

sometimes happened), he spies a

who after

tiger,

his nightly

prowl has retired to one of these dark recesses to conceal himself

From

from the glare of day.

tain

the

summit of

moun-

the highest

he enjoys the extensive prospect of sea and land formerty

described; and finds himself lost in contemplative wonder at the

inadequateness of sublunary operations, and the vanity of

human
name

all

structures; since, in this astonishing scene, not even the

of the founder, nor the intent of his undertaking,

now

to a single individual

is

known

existing

In contemplating the extensive and delightful prospect from

the excavated mountain, and especially the gentler

panded
it

vallies in the centre

of the island,

hills

and

in their wild

still

ex-

state,

appeared extraordinary that during the ten years Salsette had

then belonged to the Company, cultivation was not more advanced.

tended

I
to,

believe

its

all

at-

and the growth of sugar, indigo, and other lucrative

productions attempted;

At

improvement has been since more

with what success

events Indian grain, in

ing to the nature of the

soil

its

and

cannot ascertain.

great variety, would, accordsituation,

and, considering the immense population of

always meet with a ready market.

It

be sure

Bombay, must

was then

From

the energy

possess in so superior a degree to the Hindoos,

there

I again adverted

to the Parsees; a people, who, if properly encouraged,

a valuable colony on Salsette.

to thrive,

and

might form
spirit

they

(who only tread

in

the footsteps of their progenitors, without even a wish for improve-

ment)

much might be

land, but

expected, not only in cultivating the waste

by the introduction of the

commerce.

They

useful arts, manufactures,

are a very multiplying people,

and

and must

in

452
time extend themselves beyond the island of
precincts of Surat

and Baroche, which are

Bombay, and

the

at present almost the

only places where they reside in any considerable number.

In-

stead of emigrating to foreign powers, and distant situations, this

industrious tribe would form a flourishing colony nearer home,

As

carrying w ith them arts and manufactures of various kinds.

carpenters, in house

and ship building, they are extremely expert;

especially the latter,

and

and Bombay

is

chiefly

Salsette, indulged with

to

them the naval architecture

confined.

at Surat

If thus induced to settle

temples for their sacred

fire,

on

open sepul-

chres for their dead, farms, manufactories, and cottages for the

middle and lower

classes,

and gardens and

villas for the

opulent,

I cannot easily conceive a better or a happier colony.

Few

people more justly appreciate the blessings of liberty and

property than the Parsees; they enjoy the envied

trast it

at

with the oppressive governments around them.

Bombay,

frequently conversed with

other sensible Parsees.

and

bliss,

was highly

ral history, politics,

tion of the

gratified

and

by

religious

prejudices

liberal sentiments

their opinion

religion.

last

Hindoos and Mahomedans,

and possessing more useful knowledge and

either, 1

When

Muncher Jevan, and

Unshackled by the

superstitious deprivations of the

and con-

on subjects

in

than

gene-

Their reasoning on the separa-

American colonies and the ruinous war then

just

ter-

minated, on the blended and separate interests of the Kind's and

Company's governments

in

India,

opinions and modes of worship in

to detail

The

and the
the

Christian church, were I

them would surprise many European

Parsees at

Bombay

diversity of religious

readers.

possess considerable landed property,

453
and have

turn to Europe,

At my

some of

last visit I

the best villas

some of the

prettiest

in

their re-

and gardens on the

had been absent seven

had made great advances

f
} ears,

island.

during which they

wealth and independence, lived in

country houses, and drove thither

carriages of English construction.

in the last

from the English on

either built, or purchased

twenty years has been

am

elegant

informed their progress

more

still

in

rapid.

This party to Salsetle, Elephanta, and Caranjah, was the

my

of

many

excursions in India.

On

parting in the durbar at Tannah,

of us took a final leave of each other

Several of us

expected.

that was

had resided together

was now widely

different

separated

When
well

life;

our des-

memory were
social

to

harmony.

friends take a long leave of each other, they endure a pang,

known

to

minds of

Twenty-eight years are

to

concord and

substitute for friendly

have been

by an immense distance

of sea and land, the pleasures and the pains of

become a

to

in Guzcrat, occu-

pied in the respective duties of public and private

tiny

last

sensibility,

now

which language cannot

utter.

elapsed since the separation alluded

the sensations were renewed within a few weeks on our final

departure from

Bombay!
" Behold,

''

See here thy pictur'd

" Thy

flowering

life

fond

man

! Pass some

few

years,

Spring thy Summer's ardent

strength.

" Thy sober Autumn fading into age

" And pale concluding Winter comes at last,
" And

" Those dreams

s'

Ah

of greatness

shuts the scene.

Of happiness ?

" Those

whither

are fled

those unsolid hopes

those longings after

restless cares

now

fame

those busy bustling days

454
" Those gay-spent

festive nights?

"

Lost between good and

"

All

now

are vanish'd!

" Immortal,
'

ill,

those veering thoughts

that shar'd thy life

Virtue

sole survives,

never-failing friend of

His guide to happiness on

high !"

man,

Thomson.

CHAPTER
COMMENCEMENT

XXXVI.

OF A JOURNEY FROM SURAT TO CALCUTTA]

CONTAINING THE PRINCIPAL OCCURRENCES IN THE

PROVINCES OF GUZERAT AND MALWA,

BETWEEN SURAT AND OOJEN, IN

1785.

"It was

a frequent saying

of Alexander, that he had discovered more by his eyes than other kings

could comprehend in their thoughts.

former,,

by

travel,

this

he referred

ought to observe and comment on what he sees

the good to

make

use of

without profiting him.

this,

In

to travel

can,

when he

it

to

is

the best in-

improve himself

noting as well the bad to avoid, as

and without registering these things by the pen, they will pass away

The committing

pleases,

experience

A man,

and one journey will shew us more than any description can.

go over

his

of a thought

journey again

to

paper fixes

in his closet."

it

on the mind

Owen

he

who does

Felltham. 1628.

CONTENTS.
The author desirous of travelling

Malwa, prevented hy

his

Powa Ghur, and

to

official

duties

the confines

avails himself

opportunity to gain information of those districts

sessed of

Mr.

from Surat

to

and

of every

becomes pos-

Cruso's papers containing the particulars of ajourney

Calcutta, with Sir Charles Malet

and corrected by
this

of

which, amplified

that gentleman, form the most interesting part of

the following chapters

cause

of the embassy, and Sir

Charles Malet's appointment by the supreme government of Bengal

public

the gentleman who accompanied Sir Charles arrival at Surat from Bombay departure
from Surat for Baroche arrival there dancing-girls a be-ropee,
papers relative

or buffoon

to

the embassy

dilapidations of Bowran melancholy picture ofVezel-

poor and the English garden-houses

verses on reading these remarks

in that village

reflections

and

ingratitude of some of the higher

Tuckarca Borahs rajah

Ramul Si/mg oppressed by Futty Sihng Gracias
and
Brodera purgunna
beauty of
Brodera
presents
and
from Futty Sihng ceremonies
brother
returned at
of Futty Sihng and

Brodera durbar palace describedparticulars of

orders at Baroche towards the English

fertility

arrival at

the

at this visit

visit

dress

reception

his

the visit

the

the visit

the

Guicwar dominions, and enter

rode,

HaloolPowa-Ghur,

Mhadajee

S India Ja-

Champoncer

that fortress described

formerly the capital of Guzerat

VOL. III.

those of

leave

romantic country
N

near

Malozv

Belah fruit

Barreah

intestine broils

visit

from

the rajah

in

that wild district

the

visit

returned

lofty hills

pleasant

cha-

continuation of wild country

fested by robbers alarm precautions design frustrated Do
Jaboo rajah through
hud
from
rajah Pitlabad
My character of
from
borderers
robbers Rajoud
country near
Churrims, a very

Myhi and Coto-ser

of
Noulai
robbery
gular
racter of the Barreah rajah

in-

this perilous

the

escort

cross the

this

visit

that river

tribe described

rivers

sin-

at the tents

the opposite

direction of the livers in this part of

country

Hindostan

produce

poppiesmanner of extracting the opium aid

vince of

mud

the

hi

notorious

its

the

sources

Malwa

villages

tract

proverbially fertile

arrival at Oojen.

and

tree

of the

pro-

singular

well zmtered

CHAPTER

In

travelling through

Guzerat

XXXVI.

I occasionally

mentioned the

mountain of Powa-Ghur, and the majestic scenery

one of the grandest features

as forming

when seen from

of exploring those romantic regions, the

and some other

zerat.

With

falls

the conveniences for travelling in

tan,

where a journey of only

tion

and arrangement.
public duties as a

collector of the revenues at

and anxiety, kept

an opportunity

was always desirous

of the Nerbudda,

interesting spots in the north-east parts of

have been easily accomplished

My

in its vicinity,

in that province, especially

Dhuboy.

the ramparts of

lofty

me

to

fully

but

fifty

it

my

much

might

Hindos-

considera-

of council at Baroche, and

Dhuboy,

employed

this

far otherwise in

miles requires

member

accomplish

is

England

Gu-

situations of responsibility

and being thus deprived of

wishes, I endeavoured to gain

every intelligence of those districts from the yogees, senassees,

and other

travelling mendicants,

made some

who frequented Dhuboy.

valuable communications, not indeed alwa\

They

such as

could depend upon; for these wandering devotees, (who, except

the Vanjarras with their bullock caravans, are almost the

only

travellers in Hindostan), generally exaggerate in their descriptions,

460
and blend a strange mixture of legendary

lore with topographical

history.

had transcribed some hundred pages from those memoranda,

and other documents, to illustrate the countries bordering on the Dhuboy and Brodera purgunnas; especially
dajee Sindia, which

Guzerat

duce a journey from Surat

when Mr. Cruso,

Malet

to the

come

care; but the papers of a deinto

my

possession, afford such

a more complete description of those interesting

shall suppress

tracts, that I

my

to

ceased friend having since

for

dominions of Mha-

intended should follow the account of the

districts entrusted

ample scope

in the

in his

camp

much

of

my own

collection, to intro-

to Calcutta, written in

the year

1785,

medical capacity, accompanied Sir Charles

of Mhadajee Sindia, through provinces

little fre-

quented by Europeans, and some of them never yet described:

route

this

was purposely selected by

and extend our knowledge of so

From my own

materials, the rough journal of

Malet

am

Mr. Cruso, and

in supervising,

and amplifying many passages from

ing,

Charles, to improve

interesting a part of India.

the kind assistance of Sir Charles

Sir

his

own

improve-

manuscripts,

enabled to produce a narrative of novelty and interest far

superior to the desultory observations contained in two or three

of

my

bitants.
it is

letters,

descriptive of the

As

is

the whole

Malwa

now formed

scenery,

and

its

inha-

into one connected detail,

unnecessary to particularise each respective source of infor-

mation.

Mr. Cruso's journal has furnished the outline and prin-

cipal features of the picture, the

hand

more masterly touches are by the

just mentioned.

Mr. Malet (now

Sir Charles

Warre Malet, Bart.) was appointed

461
by Warren Hastings, Esq. then governor-general of India, resident
Poona,

at the court of

supreme government

Bombay, dated
"

Company
you

will

Malet
from

the

For

in the following terms

Bengal, to the governor in council of

at

23d of November 1784.

the maintenance of the general interests of the

we make

with the Mahratta state,

it

our request that

be pleased to allow us to employ the services of Mr.

as our minister

his relation

to

an appointment

court of Poona; considering him,

at the

your government, and from that which such

will give

him

to

the

this,

Alluding no doubt, not only to

pose."

of a letter from the

fittest for

such a pur-

his political

knowledge,

but from his being perfectly conversant with the languages and

The

manners of Hindostan.
letter will
4i

following extract from the same

explain the cause of this long and arduous journey.

In order that Mr. Malet

may

receive complete instructions

in the general line of his negociations,

and be enabled

a concerted plan of correspondence with our minister

to establish

at the court

of Mhadajee Sindia, for the purpose of avoiding both an opposition

of influence, and also the appearance of

actions with
as to the
rests

two powers,

members of

the

to

which we bear a

same

state,

it,

in

common

our transrelation,

but whose respective inte-

and views may occasionally lead them

to different lines

of

policy, in which, without such a caution, our ministers might be

involved;

we

request that you will depute Mr. Malet to go im-

mediately to the

way

to Calcutta;

dency,

if it shall

camp

of Mhadajee Sindia, at Agra, as on his

and with actual orders

be judged necessary for

to proceed to this presi-

his

more

effectual instruc-

462
tions, or otherwise,

there.

It

receive

to

not probable that

is

sence here; but

we would wish

destination; and his

his

quence

ot"

its

appointment and credentials

his

visit

we

Mr. Malet's pre-

shall require

to

have

to

Mhadajee Sindia

it

publicly understood as
as

a conse-

lying in his route, to prevent any conclusion unfa-

vourable to his reception at Poona."

These orders having reached

January 1735,

and

if

Sir Charles

the views,

thus actuated, he procured

accompany him

lo

surgeon, both

recommended by

moirs of the

latter,

The

effect,

surveyor, and Mr. Cruso as

promising every advantage

surveys of the former, and the me-

will

best evince

how

that pro-

this

appointment by the supreme govern-

Malet received the orders of the governor

Bombay on

by proceeding

the 24th of January, 1785, to carry

to Surat,

of Mhadajee Sindia, wherever

in the Prime,

of government into effect

fulfilled.

Sir Charles

council at

beginning of

from whence great part of the following com-

In consequence of

ment,

as

talent,

munications have been collected,

mise has been

the

captain (now general) Reynolds, to

be appointed

in their respective lines.

in

Maletlost no time in carrying the views,

more than

possible

Bombay

it

and from thence

might

be.

He

to the

it

in

into

camp of

accordingly sailed

one of the Company's ships, on the 28th of that month,

and reached the

city of Surat

on the 2d of February; where hav-

ing been detained, by waiting for the requisite passports from the
different

princes whose territories he

had

to traverse,

and by the

preparations necessary for so long a journey, in a conspicuous

public character, he was not able to proceed until the 12th of

March; when he moved from Surat, amply equipped,

in every

463
point, to give

an impression of respect

for his nation

and govern-

ment, to those tribes and chieftains, hitherto unacquainted with

Europeans, through whose dominions, then but

entirely undescribed, he

had purposely selected

lillle

known, and

The

his route.

guard appointed to accompany him consisted of one complete

company of regular

native infantry, twenty-six Indian cavalry,

and

thirty-five irregular sepoys.

Mr. Cruso's account of Surat, Baroche, and other places

in

Guzerat, generally corresponding with those formerly detailed in

these volumes, I shall pass hastily over.
crossed the

Tappee

by the usual road

the banks of the Nerbudda, they arrived at

Baroche on the 17th, nearly two years

sion of

Mhadajee

were pitched at a

was soon

Sindia.
little

after visited

leaving Surat, they

Veriow, and proceeding on the loth

river at

to

On

On

after

crossing the

had been

in posses-

Nerbudda

their tents

it

distance from the city walls,

by Gopal Rao,

or collector of the revenues;

and

Sir Charles

Sindia's governor; the dessoy,

several other persons,

who

for-

merly held situations under the English government.

In the evening, while the gentlemen were amusing themselves,
as

was

their practice, in shooting at a target with

two or three

sets

bows and arrows,

of dancing-girls intruded, and urgently solicited

permission to dance and sing: to gratify their wishes, rather than

their

own

down on

pleasure, they accmiesced,

sat

the banks of the river, and entertained several hundred

persons assembled round them.

by an

and ordering carpets,

elderly

ferent gestures

The scene was agreeably

man, whose vocation was

and characters

kind of dramatist

is

by the

varied

that of assumino- dif-

for the general entertainment.

This

natives called be-roopee, or double-

464
shaped (a mimic, or buffoon).

number of

repeated a

verses

This man, personating a

on the passion of love with singular

address, and that alternate motion of the right

rally

and

left

hand gene-

adopted by orators.

The next morning

of

f'akeer,

Baba Rahan,

the party visited the dilapidated

or Bowran,

mausoleum

hastening fast to ruin.

Returning

village of Vezelpore,

from thence, they alighted at the

about a

mile to the westward of Baroche, formerly adorned by the houses

and gardens of several English gentlemen, then belonging

establishment, most delightfully situated near the

budda: they were now

late;

still

urns,

totally neglected, uninhabited,

the

Ner-

and deso-

indicating the remains of beauty in mutilated columns,

and other ornaments, which

choly.

bank of

to that

filled their

minds with melan-

Baroche was always esteemed one of the most

flourish-

Bombay presidency; at
permitted the Company to have

ing and delightful settlements under the

this

time Mhadajee Sindia only

a small factory

The higher

in the city, in

classes of

charge of one of their

civil servants.

Hindoos, from religious prejudice, are averse

to dwell in houses that

have been inhabited by Europeans; those

of the lower orders, and of other castes, dare not occupy mansions which,

by giving an idea of wealth, might subject them

to

the cruel rapacity of the Mahratta government; nor could any

individuals, either Hindoos,

Mahomedans,

in defenceless habitations without

exposed

My

or Parsees, safely reside

the city, where they would be

to the depredations of the Gracias.

feelings

were excited on copying the preceding remarks

from Mr. Cruso's narrative.

had heard from other

the desolated scenery at Vezelpore.

The

villa I

visitors

of

had erected on

465
that beautiful spot only eight years before, was then in ruins; the

dining-parlour converted to a stable, the drawing-room to a cowthe garden was ploughed up, and

house:

trees destroyed,

the lines

Such was

broken.

to

sown with

Naiad defaced, and her urn

the

the picture lately given

me by

then a subaltern officer in the Baroche garrison.

two others adjoining, were

friends from

hour

the city,

grain, the

colonel Boden,

This

with

villa

evening resort of our military

the

who came

to pass the tranquil

moonlight

garden, sup under the summiniana, and enjoy the

in the

" feast of reason, and the flow of soul," with congenial minds,
alive to every feeling of urbanity

There

and friendship.

a beautiful passage in sacred writ, relating to the

is

which under the imagery of a similar devastation,

of Assyria;

trates the destruction of the stately

banian

tree,

fall

illus-

and the surround-

ing grove in our garden, which were refreshed by the waters they

overshadowed.
with

fair

his top

him up on
and her

rneat,

high, with her rivers running round about

flowing to

rivers

little

all

the trees

of the

Therefore his height was exalted, his boughs were multi-

field.

plied,

and

of waters,

his

branches became long, because of the multitude

when he

shot forth.

nests in his boughs,

and under

found shelter: thus Avas he

his branches;

garden of

God

for his root

OL. in.

made

their

branches the beasts of the

field

All the fowls of heaven

his

fair in

his greatness, in the lenolh

was by the

Avaters.

could not hide him; the

boughs; the chesnut

r

Lebanon,

was among the thick boughs; the waters made him

plants;

in

branches, a shadowing shroud, and of an high stature;

the deep set

his

" Behold, the Assyrian was a cedar

trees

fir

The cedars

trees

in

were not like

of
the
his

were not like his branches; nor any tree

3

466
in the

garden of

made

fair

of

God

was

like

by the multitude of

Eden envied him

But

left

in his

beauty.

He was

his branches; so that all the trees

have delivered him into the hands of

the heathen, strangers have cut

have

unto him

him

off; the terrible

him; upon the mountains and

of the nations

in the valleys his branches

are fallen; his boughs are broken; the people of the earth are

gone from

his

shadow, and have

tion for his destruction

for

it is

doom, they

worth the day

The daughters of

a day of desolation; a cloudy day!

nations shall lament thy

beauty

Woe

prophecy, and say,

Take up a lamenta-

him!

left

shall

lament the

loss

the

of thy

I"

The reader of

sensibility

will

excuse

this

digression,

and the

following parody on a few lines in Goldsmith's " Deserted Village,"

occasioned by a momentary impulse, on reading the state of our

iiarden-houses in Mr. Cruso's journal.
Sweet Vezel

loveliest village

of the plain,

Where

health and plenty cheer'd the labouring swain

Where

cooling showers their earliest

And

latter rains

Dear

lovely bowers of innocence

Seats of

How

my

visits

paid,

abundant harvests made.

youth,

when

and

ease,

every sport could please

often have I wander' d o'er thy green,

Where

How

friendly intercourse endear'd each scene

often have

The Hindoo

paus*d on every charm,

cot, the cultivated farm,

The

bold

The

decent mosque beyond his swelling tide,

The

glittering

Where

How

Nerbudda flowing by thy

side,

temple hid beneath the shade

Visnoo's priests or Seeva's votaries stray'd.

often have I hail'd the festive hour

When

distant friends arriv'd to grace the bow'r,

467
Where

from pride and envy

free,

Beguiled the time beneath the spreading

tree.

While

social mirth,

different parties loiter'd in the shade,

The happy

hosts their well-pleas'd guests survey'd,

And many

a gambol frolick'd o'er the ground,

And many

a cheerful song and jest

And

as

still

went round,

each repeated pleasure

tir'd,

Succeeding joys the mirthful band inspired.

Such were thy charms, dear

village

With sweet

the tropic please

Made

And

us to

succession

meet

its

made

These round thy bowers

These were thy charms

I shall

make no

fully described

like these,
:

fervours with a smile,

regret the joys of Albion's

less

charms

isle

their cheerful influence shed;

but

all

these charms are fled

extracts concerning Baroche, having already

during the English government, when flourish-

it

ing and happy: under the Mahrattas Mr. Cruso thus writes.

present

Amul

Row,

a young

is

tants.

or governor for

man

of

The dewan a low

mean

ment; when

his

filled it

local

gave him great consequence

to hold

the

same

on

dessoy,

all

The

a banian of considerable fortune

Mozuz Caun,

previous to the

during the whole of their govern-

to the

in the

the

in

Company's

purgunna.

situation under the

no longer a friend

acts

is

knowledge and intrigue

department made him useful

is

capacity, not liked by the inhabi-

held that post under the nabob

English conquest, and

named Gopal

Sindia,

insignificant being, called Tattea.

mudjemoodar, named Lullabhy

who

Mahdajee

The

He

revenue

collectors,

has contrived

Mahratta government; but

to his former employers,

and ungratefully

occasions in opposition to the English interest.

Dowlat Roy, succeeded

and

to that station

on

his

The

father's

468
death, during the English government, and was continued in

His grandfather was put to death

the Mahrattas.

Caun

at the instigation of Lullabhy's

Dowlat Row, a young man of no

at the

mercy of Lullabhy;

partment

in the

striking talents,

On

by

Mozuz

maternal grandfather; and

is

now

entirely

heads of every de-

as indeed are the

Baroche durbar.

by

it

leaving Baroche, where Sir

Charles Malet had been treated with great respect

by Sindia's

government, and our guard increased by twenty-five horse and

fifteen foot, to

accompany

us as far as

Champoneer, we marched

through a well-cultivated and populous plain

for sixteen miles, to

Tuckarea, a large village chiefly inhabited by borahs;

dans of singular appearance and manners, in

many

respects re-

sembling the Jews. Their houses are numerous, and well

musjeed

is

built; the

the largest in the Baroche purgunna; the outside, from

magnitude and

its

Mahome-

style of architecture,

promised a handsome inte-

rior;

but ue found nothing more than the usual places of prostra-

tion,

the ornaments mean,

and every thing common, except the

tank where the worshippers perform their ablutions.

lage Sir Charles was met by a
the

Guicawar

At

mehmendar, from Futty

this vil-

Sihno-,

chieftain at Brodera, with a letter of invitation to

his capital.

We

Meah Gaum,

arrived at

a town belonging to rajah Ranul

Sihng, on the 20th of March; and were immediately visited by two

of
his

his sons,

way

more of
group.

bringing a respectful message from the rajah, then on

to

meet

us.

his sons,

We

He

soon after arrived, attended by nine

forming altogether a very interesting family

found him a sensible, well-behaved, respectable man,

about sixty years of age, of great hospitality, who not only ordered

469
every thing necessary, but would willingly have pressed more upon
us than

we wanted. This benevolent

rajah

is

of the Rajepoot caste,

tributary to Futty Sihng, of whose rapacity he

plaints,

and was then

extreme

in

distress,

from

made
his

bitter

com-

having placed

a guard of fifty horse over his person, and ordered him immediately

durbar at Brodera, or to pay down a large sum.

to repair to his

The aged

patriarch spoke with

casion: "

God/'

spring,

man's

am

Futty Sihng, but

I will

his other

this

off-

possessions are in a hazardous state.

not suffer myself to be led into

If he will withdraw his troops, I

command

would force a compliance,

During

on the oc-

with a numerous

apprehend from the rapacity and

to

obey

spirit

have lived to see most of them attain to

My

have every thing

force.

me

and

threatened with being deprived of the means of

providing for them.

by an armed

feeling

said he, " has blessed

and now that

estate, I

much

if not,
is

my

life

injustice of
his

presence

may perhaps

on such terms as he

not worth preserving."

conversation a very

handsome youth, about

six-

teen years of age, entered the tent; our venerable guest immediately arose,

and introduced him

the child of his eldest son,

sessions run

in

that line.

who

as the heir to his rajahship, being

is

dead.

The town

Most of the Hindoo succontains upwards of three

thousand inhabitants, mostly Rajepoots and Gracias; the

are probably the aborigines of the country,

completely subdued as

to

give

up

their ciaim

latter

who were never

on a certain portion

of the landed property, the produce of which they claim to

day.

If their

demand

is

not complied with, they are, after

man and

this

admo-

nishing the defaulter, frequently guilty of the greatest cruelty,

ing or maiming

so

kill-

beast belonging to the village which re-

470
fuses.

In such terror are they held, that when a party of them

and themselves are amply provided

enters a village, their horses

with every thing necessary.

The day

following

we

crossed the dry bed of the river Dahdcr,

and encamped

at the village of Etola, belonging to Futty Siting,

not far from

its

banks.

purgunna,

the

is

It

is

village, since the

first

we have been

ney, at which

remarkable that Etola,

and when
tending

the

many

Brodera

commencement of our

jour-

refused the few articles of provisions

and necessaries usually supplied

The next morning we

in the

left

to an oriental traveller.

Etola at four o'clock, by torch-light,

day broke found ourselves on a beautiful

miles around us

the trees with

which

plain, ex-

was richly

it

adorned, were arranged in such sweet assemblage as to produce the

most agreeable

for the rural scenery

now no

which

longer found

to myself a

Brodera.

must own

effect.

it

had

had been led

fictitious

hitherto looked in vain

to expect in

exaggeration.

more charming country than

As you approach

Guzerat

cannot

fio-ure

that in the vicinity of

the city the views are enriched

by a

number of mausoleums, embosomed among dark groves of mango

After a march of eleven miles we encamped, at seven
trees.
two hundred yards north-east of Brodera, the capital of
theGuicwar territory in Guzerat, and the residence of its chieftain,

o'clock,

Fulty Sihng

Row

miles from Surat.

Guicwar, which, by our route,

is

about ninety

In the evening Futty Sihng signified

his inten-

tion of visiting Sir Charles Malet on the following afternoon,

sent a present of fruit

and

The next day, about

and

necessaries.

five o'clock in the afternoon,

the approach

of the Brodera chieftain being announced, preparation was

made

471
for his suitable

paraded, and

appeared

The guard,

reception.
the

all

members of the

regular and irregular

was

mission, with their followers,

AVhen he came within two hundred

in their best attire.

paces, Sir Charles went forward

in

his

palanquin

meet him.

to

Futty Sihng was escorted by a party of cavalry well mounted and

appointed

and a guard of a hundred

household troops,

many

He was

of

establishment.

whom had

infantry, selected

his

been sepoys on the Bengal

received at the door of the public tent,

and from thence conducted

to Sir Charles's private tent,

chair covered with embroidered velvet was placed for

were ranged on each side

from

ministers

for his

and

him

ourselves.

where a
;

others

After

presenting Captain Reynolds and myself, as gentlemen of his suite,

Sir Charles look

to his seat.

brought with him one of his brothers, Monajee, who was seated

He
on
to

Futty Sihng by the hand, and led him

his right

hand; Gulab Roy, the mehmundar who had been sent

meet us on the journey, stood

tween him and

Sir Charles.

at his

The

rest

left,

as the interlocutor be-

of the numerous attendants

of rank to entitle them to admission, sat on carpels to the right of

Monajee, without any distinction of priority

nor could any be
stance

for

equipped

in

all,

made by a

that. I

could observe

difference of dress or other circum-

except two soucars, or commercial

the rough

manner

affected

men, were

by the Mahratta

cavaliers,

nor were their manners more refined than their appearance.

After some general conversation, and a few songs and dances,

by two

sets

of dancing-girls usually attendant on such ceremonies,

Futty Sihng expressed a desire to return; on which a number of

presents that were in readiness, were brought in by the servants,

and

offered in the following

manner:

Several attendants

carried

472
each a
first

silver dish,

covered with an embroidered cloth.

As the

approached near the Broderah chieftain the embroidered cover

was removed, and discovered a muslin turban unfolded, under

which were some of the

articles to

be presented.

taking one end of the turban, offered

He

salam.
it

received

it

to

Futly Sihng with the usual

with a return of the same civility and gave

The

to an attendant.

it

Sir Charles then

contents of the dish were then separately

displayed to him, and delivered to his servants

each cover was

presented in succession, with a repetition of the same ceremonies.

An Arab

horse, a present

from

was then led

Sir Charles,

door, and given in charge to one of his grooms

were also made

to

his brothers

to the tent

suitable presents

and principal attendants.

Sihng having expressed great satisfaction at

his reception,

Fulty
then re-

turned to his durbar, attended part of the way by Sir Charles.

This

Guykwar

chief of the Mahratta empire

is

a dark man, of

the middle stature, with an intelligent countenance, but his conversation

and manners are

tendants

still

more rude, and

or robe, closed at the

arm was ornamented

finger of his left

The handle of
Monajee
person

tall

is

his

Avith

nimma

the behaviour of his at-

fine

muslin, neat and plain; the

neck by a diamond pin.

His right

a row of diamonds, and on the

little

hand was a ring with a middle-sized diamond.

dagger was mother of pearl, inlaid with gold.

much

better looking

man

than his brother

his

and commanding, with good eyes, an open counte-

nance, and regular features.

the

domestics seemed perfect strang-

his

His dress was of

ers to order.

nimma,

from elegant

far

fastened

His dress was also of plain muslin,

by a large emerald

wilh a necklace of pearls

and

in

form of a lozenge

emeralds alternately disposed.

473
These brothers had both a nerveless debilitated appearance, pro-

duced probably by an immoderate use of opium and early debauchery.

At Futty

Sihng's visit

it

was

wait on Sir Charles at ten A.

him

to the

durbar in the

settled that

M.

of the ensuing day, to conduct

We

city.

a proper person should

accordingly waited until the

afternoon in hopes of learning the appointed hour;

when

a chop-

dar arrived from the durbar with a message, that the chieftain

having assembled

his astrologers,

was unlucky, and

for that reason

more auspicious
visits

of friends

had been determined

we could not be

day

the

received until a

Sir Charles returned for answer, that the

season.

made

it

all

days lucky

necessity of proceeding on his journey,

and as he was under the

and had already sent

off

part of his equipage, he wished to pay his respects at the durbar

the

same evening.

The messenger

presently returned, with a request to see

iis

as

soon as convenient, as every thing was prepared for our reception,

and a number of massaulchees ordered

to the durbar, whither

the

we

we

immense crowd of

it

spectators,

From our

made a shabby appearance,

It

ill

suited to

chamber, where Futty Sihng received

sions

III.

its

magnitude

The new dur;

us, is divided

the audience-

by

pillars into

accommodation of the company at public diver-"

and nautches, who being arranged on

VOL.

streets,

seems very populous, and

a lofty structure, but of mean appearance

three parts, for the

but from

imperfect view of

contains a good market-place, arched and roofed.

is

and narrowness of the

and the reputed wealth of its owner.

bar

from the tents

repaired about eight o'clock

did not arrive there until nine.

the city,

to light us

either side, see the

474

On

spectacle in the central division without interruption.

ing this apartment

we found

three chairs placed for us,

is

and

after the usual

only customary at a

compliments we were seated

first

meeting.

We

and ano-

who soon

ther covered with crimson velvet for Futty Sihng,

tered,

enter-

the

en-

embrace

were afterwards informed

that Futty Sihng's reason for not being present in the durbar to

receive us, arose from a finesse of foolish pride, that he might

The master of

avoid the condescension of rising.

and

all

the

company introduced upon

the ceremonies,

this occasion,

were of rude

and clownish appearance, with only two exceptions: one, a manly

handsome Patan, who commanded

a

Mahomedan

ing-girls

officer

were provided for our entertainment

cities

Two

of a similar description.

or Waroda, as frequently called

famous

the regular troops

sets

the other

of danc-

but though Brodera,

by the natives,

is

one of the most

India for these tolerated courtezans, and from

in

Futty Sihng's general character, his acquaintance with them

very limited, none were of even passable beauty.

danced

well,

than usual.

is

not

They however

and one of them sang with more harmony and variety

Our

visit

was protracted

long private conference, which

until

near midnight, by a

Futty Sihng had requested Sir

Charles to have with himself and his principal minister in a separate apartment.

The public

visit

was closed, as customary, with

a return of presents.

Early the next morning we proceeded to Jarode, the

in the

last stage

Brodera purgunna, where the Guicwar dominion terminates,

and Mhadajee

Sindia's

commences.

Near Brodera the road

is

wood, and the country of that pleasing description already mentioned;

all

the rest presented a dreary aspect, without an acre in

475
In

cultivation.

bed of a small
Sindia's

miles,

we

crossed the dry

Jarode

is

the place where

march of twelve

this

river, called the Suree.

army was encamped on General Goddard's campaign

the English

army occupied

the ground near Camlah, from

whence

they followed the Mahratla chief, in hopes of bringing him to an

action, for which he

shewed no inclination.

an excellent tank, at

this

On

is

advanced season abounding with water.

we marched eleven miles

the 26th

In front of Jarode

to Halool, the

uncultivated and dreary, but about halfway the

presented a beautiful landscape

woods was added a charming

to

part

first

dawn of morning

the finest fields

and

richest

variety of forest scenery, with an ex-

cellent road winding through

The morning

it.

air,

perfumed by

numberless flowering shrubs, and a serenade from bulbuls and

other warblers, rendered the sylvan scene complete,

reached Halool, a large village belonging to Sindia,

Powa-ghurr.

for a rock

summit; which,

artificial

it

certainly

ascent to

as also the

convenient places

an

five miles

from

Our encampment commanded a grand view of

stupendous rock

is,
it,

below the upper

that

from the foot to the

is

but what generally appears

fortification,

we

until

strongly fortified at
at

part,

a distance
is all

to

be

a natural

defence, consisting of scarped rock to a most formidable depth.

On

the

brity

saint.

summit of
also the

the

mountain

a Hindoo temple of some cele-

mausoleum of Peer Sujjun Sermust, a Mahomedan

part of these religious edifices

houses. This fortress, which

from the plains of Guzerat,

who

is

is

said to be used as store-

makes such a conspicuous appearance

is

commanded by

Chillajee

Cuddum,

has been killedar at this important station the last five years.

The city of Champoneer, formerly

the capital of the whole

Guze-

476
rat district,
side.

We

mountain on the opposite

situated at the foot of the

is

wished very

much

to

have seen

it,

but as we must have

deviated considerably from our route to gratify curiosity,

There

given up.

is

it

was

a large lank near the village of IJullole, ad-

joining a grand mausoleum, said to have been built by Secunder

Padshaw, consisting of two magnificent

domes, and

five smaller,

workmanship.

On

of the same construction,

Under each of the

the 27th

large

The work on

without an inscription.

structures covered with

domes

these

of admirable

all

a marble tomb,

is

tombs

exquisite.

is

we proceeded on our journey, having been

fur-

nished from Champoneer with an additional guard often footmen.

We

wished for an escort of cavalry from the killedar, but most of

his troops

being employed

in collecting the revenues,

and protect-

ing the villages against the Bheels, a troublesome banditti,

We

not in his power.

enter a country so

were

full

told

when we

left

Jarode,

it

was

we should

of woods and thickets, as to be scarcely

passable; and so infested with robbers that our baggage would be

constantly in danger of being pillaged

in

this

respect

we have

been agreeably disappointed; the road having been generally good,

the country pleasant, and not a robber to be seen.

we

crossed the bed of a river about a mile before

low; the stream was

now

small,

and

the scene

This morning

we reached Ma-

abounded with wild-

fowl of various kinds.

In the vicinity of

Malow

are large masses of rocks, which seen

through the trees resemble a considerable

village.

On

a nearer

approach we found them to consist of a multiplicity of separate

rocks, in a variety of shapes, forming a very singular
disposition.

We

had not previously seen a

and romantic

single stone,

and the

477
rocky

hills

we

On

afterwards

this spot.

mounting the

came

to,

may

the top of the largest rock

trees

by which

be said to commence at
a Hindoo temple, sur-

is

the masses are surrounded.

are of various kinds; one bearing a fruil in size

pearance

like the orange, with

or wood-apple of Guzerat;

and outward ap-

a thick cortex, similar to the

it is

cowit,

called the belah; the seeds resem-

ble those of the pomegranate, are exceedingly

medicinally in fluxes.

These

gummy, and

are used

Like the mango, when green they are pre-

served in salt and water, and eaten as pickles.

Such

is

the state of warfare between the inhabitants of the

different villages in this country, that every

armed, and

you send

if

for butter

them with a drawn scimetar.

boy of fourteen

is

and eggs, the peasant brings

All the villagers

we met had

either

a sword, or bows and arrows^ sometimes both.

After a journey of thirteen miles through a wild country,

encamped on

the 28th at Seemlee, on the river

village of the territory of the

Gomah,

the

we
first

Barreah rajah, who having been

previously in correspondence with Sir Charles, had sent one of his

officers

to

with an escort of five and twenty foot and fourteen horse,

conduct us to

his capital

iemadar was sent back with

in consequence of which the Baroche

his party.

We

met many

carls laden

with grain, and overtook others proceeding to the interior with

eocoa-nuts from Jamboseer and the sea-coasts of Guzerat

The next morning, at three o'clock, we proceeded through a

thick forest until we came to a village called Gorlah, surrounded
by

cultivation.

built

In those wilds

we passed a

large well, or bowree,

by Damajee, the father of Futty Sihng, on a spot where,

flying

with only fifteen horsemen, after the dreadful battle of Panniput,

478
he had nearly perished from

Pannah

the

rivers in this part

twelve miles

we

power

then crossed the bed of

a broad stream which runs into the

river,

most of the

in his

We

thirst.

to congratulate us,

as

do

Altera march of

of the country.

arrived at Barreah

My hi,

the rajah fired the best salute

having sent

his

duan, at the head

of a body of cavalry, to meet and conduct us honourably into his

capital.

On

our

through the jungle, we passed the chain of

left,

hills

running off from the high mountain of Powaghur, seen from Dhu-

boy

They do not seem a

at a great distance.

regular range, being

often interrupted, and sometimes separate, and have in general a

woody and

wild aspect, on a basis of rock.

In

large flakes of a white shining stone, which at a

many
little

parts were

distance ap-

peared like cotton strewed through the valley, running through two
ranges of similar rocky

Barreah stands

hills.

in this valley

on the river Panna, in a narrow

town between the foot

spot, just sufficiently large to contain the

of the

hills.

It

is

of brick, and tiled.

very neat, and contains

The

many good

houses, built

inhabitants appeared decent and orderly

the shop-keepers well dressed, and the troops had a clean soldierlike appearance.

The
a

rajah having previously

visit at six in the

evening.

announced

his intention, paid us

He was mounted

on an elephant, well

caparisoned, and brought with him a party of select friends.

seemed about

thirty-five years

sessing manners,

and

of age, of a dignified mien, prepos-

and dressed with

several rows of pearls, from

rubies, set in the

He

taste.

Round

his

neck hung

whence depended emeralds, diamonds,

shape of hearts, one above another,

in the

479
The

centre of strings of pearl.

rajah's

name

last

subdued

five

hundred of

lineally descended.

Mhadajee Sindia on

ghurr when

it

were killed on

their adherents

the spot; one only of his family survived, from

is

Jeswant Sihng,

Powa

of the Rajepoot tribe; his family possessed

was

is

whom

this prince

campaign

his last

in

Guzerat, in passing and repassing through the rajah's country,

was so pleased with

ful returns,

visited

his attentions that

he made him

many

grate-

and presented him with the elephant on which he

our tents.

The next morning we returned

the rajah's

through the town the people pressed

great anxiety to behold the

ever seen.

The durbar

is

first

large,

in front

visit.

In passing

of their houses with

Europeans they had probably

but rude;

it

was well attended,

and a dancing-girl commenced her song immediatelj on our being

r

seated.

The

now examined our

rajah

dress,

and every

article

about us; and was good-naturedly inquisitive, especially regardin o-

our watches, whose operation we explained

compass affixed
still

more

room

in

to

to

him.

small

one of them was matter of great surprise; but

so a telescope, carried

by one of our

servants.

The

which the rajah received us growing too hot from the con-

course of people continually pressing into

apartment more airy and spacious.

commanded an

it,

he led us into another

Here from a window which

extensive view, he diverted himself a long time

with the spying-glass, calling in two or three of

his favourites to

share his pleasure, telling them that the people walking at a dis-

tance could not even wink their eye but he saw them.
rising to lake leave,

he told us with a smile, that we were

the midst of a wild country, prisoners at his pleasure

On

our

now

in

"We passed

480
more than two hours with him, and then returned

to the tenls,

Avhere the good-natured prince paid us another visit in the evening.

much frequented pass

between Guzerat and Malwa the tolls taken at

Barreah, situated in a narrow

or thoroughfare,

defile, is

the town-gates generally exceed twenty thousand rupees per an-

We

num.

left

it

on the 31st of March, and soon re-entered a

Sleeping at

wild rocky country, similar to that already described.

a wretched place called Cummareah, a mile from any water, at an

early hour the next

same

wilds,

came

to

which had now continued

a deep pass, cut through the

a stony plain.
cruelty

morning we renewed our journey through the

We

had been

told

for fifty miles.

which descended into

hills,

many

Here we

frightful

stories

of the

and depredations of the Bheels, the wild inhabitants of the

jungles and forests through which

due precaution we escaped.

having passed the

want Sihng's

we had

and

but by

Before day-break this morning, after

last fortified hill

territory,

lately passed

in

which forms the

limits

of Jes-

a forest near a fortress where Sindia's

dominions commence, a most infernal yell suddenly issued from

the deep ravines.

Our

guides informed us

ways made by the Bheels previous

to

this

was the noise

al-

an attack, with the view of

throwing travellers into a fright and confusion most favourable to

their designs.

We

immediately

set off at full

gallop to the brink

of the nearest gully whence the war-whoop seemed to issue, where

our alertness and the lighted matches of the horsemen's pieces disconcerting them, they

made

afterwards found to be famous for these banditti

blish a sort of rendezvous,

This place we

off as fast as possible.

and

lie

in

wait

here they esta-

among

thickets

and

481
hollow ways, from whence they spring on travellers, in places

where no horse can follow them, nor even

This dangerous spot

the ground.

foot,

being strangers to

also a neutral situation

is

two independent powers, neither of

whom deem

between

themselves re-

sponsible for the robberies and murders committed by these

Sir Charles

rauders.
this

used great precaution

ma-

marching through

in

country, moving himself with the cavalry of his guard, and at-

taching the regular infantry to the baggage.

Soon

after

descending ihe pass

situated within another circle of

we

hills,

arrived at

where the province of Guze-

Dohud

rat ends,

and Malwa commences.

we have

seen since leaving Broderah

Dohud, a town

by

is

far the best

town

surrounded by a high wall

of no great strength, with two gates and a gurry, or citadel, forming an oblong square.

The houses

habitants respectable, especially a

Borah

tribe,

are built of brick,

is

in-

number of Mussulmauns of the

who, like the Parsees, are seldom found

able numbers, but where there

and the

something

like

in consider-

an advantageous

trade.

The

following day

very fine village.

cultivated.

We

we

travelled twelve miles to

The country though

hilly

Taundah, a

was open, and well

were there warned of an intended attack by the

Bheels in our next morning's route.

Before midnight a jemadar

and four armed horsemen arrived from the rajah of Jaboo, a petty
prince in the neighbourhood,
civilities at

his

who hearing of Jeswant

Barreah, was willing to follow his example, and sent

people as an additional escort on the next stage.

ingly proceeded together at the usual hour,

We

accord-

and before day-break

passed this perilous spot without molestation

vol. in.

Sihng's

no place could be

482
better adapted for banditti, being covered

by thick

sected by deep ravines, and encompassed by

Having escaped

all difficulties

we

forests, inter-

hills.

arrived at our tents, pitched

near the village of Tandlah, in a pleasant country, with plenty of

cattle grazing in the

meadows, and peasants reaping an abundant

crop of barley.

belonged to Bihtn Sihng, rajah of Jaboo, of

the

R ha tore

It

tribe of Rajpoots,

with a

number of

pected

attendants, in a better style than

among them were

and Arab

Avho paid us a visit in the evening,

officers.

The

several

respectable

we had

ex-

Patan, Scindian,

rajah was a heavy corpulent

young man,

about five-and twenty years of age, well dressed, and covered with
ornaments, particularly several gold chains round his neck and
across his shoulders, with

During the evening

a profusion of rings

had numerous applications

medicines, which, for the credit of the embassy,

rally to all

We

who

and
for

bracelets.

advice and

distributed libe-

required assistance.

proceeded early on the 4th of April

of fourteen miles; the

first

to Pitlabad,

a stage

part through a hilly country, but nei-

ther so high nor rocky as those

we had

lately passed.

The

soil in

the valleys resembled finely sifted black earth, generally covered

by long dried
birch.

We

grass,

thinly scattered,

then ascended two lofty

with trees resembling the

hills, in

immediate succession,

and, from an extensive plain on the summit,

view

of the country

we had

lately

commanded

traversed,

a tract of

miles in length, and fifteen in breadth; generally lost to

purposes of cultivation
cruel banditti.

a tine

all

fifty

the

a cover for wild beasts, and the abode of

sneeession of

hill

and dale brought us from

thence to Pitlabad, once the mart of Malwa, and one of the most

483
now

considerable places in lhat province,

greatly impoverished

and reduced.

On

the 5th

we continued our morning march, and

Jamlah and another

village,

passing

reached the banks of the Myhi, hav-

ing travelled about fifteen miles from Pitlabad, through a pleasant

cultivated country, producing wheat, barley, and

abundance of

poppies for extracting opium, but a magnificent wildness characterized the

approach

hundred yards broad, but the stream, so

where small, and

defiles

and

gullies

(or

Ujen)

every

crossed at

Guzerat.

to

on each side are very deep, and the road

The banks on each

indifferent.

We

some places discontinued.

in

about a

is

late in the season,

one of the principal passes from Oojen,

The

The bed

to this celebrated river.

side the river are generally of

equal height, but opposite the pass

is

an eminence, well calcu-

lated for a post to obstruct an enemy's passage from Guzerat to

Malwa.

The

ravines

and inaccessible

retreats near the

the

My hi,

We

passed them with great circumspection.

render

its

borderers notorious for their depredations.

Indeed

at the outset

of the mission a regular plan of encampment, and a very

vigilant police

On

leaving the

little

Myhi we proceeded

river Cote-Ser,

twenty miles.

strict

to

This place

Rajoud, a large zemin-

named Keysree

where we encamped
is

after a

Sihng, on

march of

about ten coss from the source of the

Myhi, and three from that of the Cote-Ser.

The former

is

place called Chimpapoora near Umjeree, the latter near two

lages

and

had been established.

darree village, belonging to a Rajpoot,

the

banks of

named Coa and Budnar.

spring of the Myhi, near which

Hindoo temple

it falls

is

at a
vil-

buiit over the

in a beautiful cascade into

484
a natural bason of rock.

and small

rivulets

wonderful that
carry

which disembogue into the Myhi,

impetuous

its

down such

and sometimes

The

number

After seeing the

oi'

large rivers

no longer

il is

the rainy season, should

torrent, in

a quantity of timber, cattle, Avrecks of villages,

from the inundated plains.

their inhabitants,

general produce of the country hitherto appears to have

been juarree, wheat, barley, chena, hemp, and sugar-cane; but

none
I

in great

abundance, nor indicative of a large population.

pass over a

number of disputes and

journal, between Holcar,

in

Sihng, and other petty sovereigns

These, and various historical anecdotes were

those districts.

related

Bhim

quarrels detailed in the

by the Charruns, a caste of people very much resembling

ThcChur-

the Bhauts at Neriad, Zinore, and other parts of Guzerat.

runs were formerly said to live only in that province, but about thirty
years before several of the tribe, during the distress of a grievous

famine, tied for subsistence to Malwa, and settled under the protection of different powers.

They formed considerable

the territory of Jaboo, Jeswant Sihng, and

A village

the rajah of Umjeree.

belonging to these Churruns, on the banks of the Myhi,

had been
their

villages in

lately

plundered by a petty rajah, on the pretence of

having assisted the Gracias

in

unjust demand.

the village where

we encamped, on

reparation

which

party of the injured Churruns were

if

some

their depredations for

their

way

to

Dhar,

now

at

to solicit

they do not obtain, several of them, accord-

ing to the custom of their caste, are determined to commit suicide

in the city,

and shed

their

blood at the doors of the people Avho

refuse to redress their injuries.

tribe is

deemed an inexpiable

The

guilt of the

blood of

this

crime, and a very severe curse

485
From Dhar,
peshwa

at

surviving Churruns purpose repairing

the

Poonah; and

if

the

unsuccessful there also, will renew the

and complete the

self-devotion,

to

sacrifice of despair!

This night a robbery was committed in our encampment, the

of the kind which has happened on the journey.

first

was the principal

sufferer,

ding and several other

having

articles,

lost

not only his palanquin bed-

but a case of capital surgical instru-

ments; he was fortunately provided with another

in

such a country the

Nothing

loss

would have been

interesting occurred

for

set; otherwise

irretrievable.

some days; on

April the party arrived at Boodnaour, through an open

having entirely passed the

try;

Mr. Cruso

hills

the 8th of
flat

coun-

and rugged unevenness which

had characterised the landscape during the

last fortnight.

The

next day they encamped at Noulai, a large flourishing town belonging to Mhadajee Sindia, with a

mud

wall

and a ghurry;

it is

the capital of a very considerable purgunna, containing an hundred

and seventy-five

villages: the part

well cultivated, yielding

barley,

and

which, contrary to
direction.
left

their rise,

all

hills

the town runs the

little

grains, wheat,
river

Chumla;

the streams yet passed, takes a north-easter!}'

Sir Charles

the range of

good crops of most Indian

Near

cotton.

through which they travelled was

Malet imputes

this to their

having entirely

and high lands from whence those

and which now formed a

rivers

took

barrier to the flux of water

south-westward.

As

the rivers crossed in the former part of the

journey generally

fall

into the Mihi, so those in their future pro-

gress

must be considered

as

subsidiaries of the

Jumna and

the

Ganges, a prominent feature in the geography of Hindostan.

The next

halt

was

at Bulleyree, a village in a well-cultivated

486
and

Chumla

Passing the

plentiful country.

eight miles further, they

came

close to Noulai,

Chumbal, a

to the

about

running

fine

stream, which rising near Indore, about twenty-five miles distant,

takes a north-easterly direction, and

Dholepore.

poppies, for opium.

grains,

were large

The mode of

fields

of cotton and

extracting and gathering this

drug from the poppy, of which there are three kinds,

The peasants go every evening

simple.

near

In addition to the abundant crops of wheat, bailey,

and other Indian

juarree

Jumna

into the

falls

a sharp instrument

make

is

very

and with

into the fields,

three or four incisions into the rind

of

the poppy-head of seed; the juice, during the night, oozes plentifully

from these incisions; and

tenacious, until they

is

next morning with another instrument to scrape

it

for

tree.

sale.

From

This

come

and

it off,

country also produces the sarunjee,

the root of this tree

when young

the

collect

or

aul

the natives extract a

red dye.

The

large village of Bulleyree

is

amply supplied with water,

The whole coun-

from several brooks flowing

at this arid season.

try during the latter stages

was remarkably well watered; indeed

the province of
is

said never to

Malwa

is

have known the

contrary, generally

happy, and

in this respect proverbially

distress of

famine;

it

is,

on the

considered as an asylum and store-house for

other countries, suffering under that calamity.

Large parties of

emigrants from Manvar, and Cottyawar, which had for two years

experienced a great drought, were

now spread

over

this

happier

country.

The
tirely

of

villages in this part of the

mud;

the

flat

roofs,

Malwa

walls,

and

province are built enfloors, all

of the same

487
materials; each house

shabby top
populous

is

just visible;

villages, so

bitants if these

mud

this

mud

by a

wall, over

which

its

appeared the more remarkable in

On

near the capital.

questioning the inha-

roofs did not render the houses very hot, they

invariably answered no;

the heaviest rain which

On

encircled

is

adding that they were also proof against

fell in

that province.

the 10th of April, after travelling thirteen miles and a half

from Bulleyree, and crossing the

way, they arrived

of Malwa.
forest of

river

at Oojen, the capital of

The road was

baubul

fine

excellent; the

trees, the latter

Gumeer about

Mhadajee
first

over a rich

half

Sindia's part

six miles

through a

fertile plain,

abound-

ing with remarkably tame deer.

On

approaching the city

Sir Charles

Malet was met by a de-

putation from the governors, (for there were then two,)

who con-

ducted him to the encampment on the banks of the river Sepra,

which runs by the western walls of the

END OF

T- Bcn?lev f Printer,
Bolt Court, FrWt Street, London,

VOL.

city.

III.

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