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CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

NH XUT BN LAO NG

W
OR
DV
IE
TN
AM
.C
OM

VIETNAM EDITION
DECEMBER 2014

contents

wordvietnam.com

DECEMBER 2014

068

108

092

THE TALK

INSIDER

EAT & DRINK

010 / Of Road Closures, Bulldozers 062 / The Most Interesting Tailor


and Metro Systems
in Saigon

The road project thats stopping traffic

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

BRIEFINGS
012 / A Bender with Beckham

Celebrity parties get so crazy


sometimes!

014 / The Axis of Not Cricket

Leg before wicket? Go back to jumping


rope

018 / Who Let the Dogs Out?

The Danes did

Getting fitted by one of Saigons true


originals

064 / Reconstructing the Capital

Hanois transit solutions come to bear

068 / The 1st Annual Wordie


Awards

Our salute to the things that have


defined 2014

092 / Beneath the Wrapper

A journey into Vietnams cocoa revival

098 / Zone 9: One Year Later

Hanois cultural martyr still casts a


spell

106 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Crystal Jade Palace gives Hanoi some


Chinese flavour

107 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Xoi

108 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Racha Room is going crazy with Thai


cuisine

109 / Street Snacker HCMC

On the menu: Bun Cha Ca Da Nang

FASHION
110 / Winter in Hanoi

Before everyone starts looking


miserable

102 / Murder on the Red Carpet

018

Saigon Murder Mysteries are getting


themselves a bit of a rep

110

contents

116

126

192

HCMC

TRAVEL
116 / Rwanda

Passport-eating dogs, volcanoes and


gorillas

122 / The Bluffs Ho Tram

Number 6 on our HCMC judges top


destinations!

126 / Bien Hoa

Number 36 on our HCMC judges top


destinations...

134 / Travel Promos


HANOI
050 / To-Do List
058 / Overscene
135 / Hanoi City Guide
138 / Recalling Hanoi
140 / Coffee Cup
145 / Food Promos

4 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

162 / Body and Temple

036 / To-Do List

172 / The Empty Wok

048 / Overscene

176 / A World of Good

155 / HCMC City Guide


164 / Coffee Cup
168 / Top Eats A
174 / Top Eats B
COLUMNS
144 / Student Eye
146 / The Alchemist
150 / The Therapist

184 / Tieng Viet


FINAL SAY
188 / The Inside Story of the
Guerrilla War

Chapter 3 of Wilfred Burchetts classic


account

192 / The Far Side

Vietnamese students abroad in Adelaide

196 / The Last Call

Swedens ambassador is leading by


example

152 / Medical Buff


154 / Book Buff
158 / Business Buff
160 / Job Search

196

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked our Word team for their


highly-subjective, possibly-controversial picks of
the best food and drink in Vietnam:
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
HCMC Happy Hour Pick: onTop Bar
Lately, the only place I can think of
for a happy hour drink is the Novotel
Saigon Centres onTop Bar. With a
20-storey vantage, a 5pm to 8pm half-price
deal and drinks that err away from the sweet side of
things, my drinking buddies can ignore the fact that
its also only two blocks from my house.
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Photographer
HCMC Working Space Pick: The Workshop
A good caf to me has to have good
coffee, good food, a good space, good
music and good light. For a few years
LUsine fulfilled all of these criteria
(they make one of the best eggs dishes
in town, fyi), until I walked up two sets of
old colonial wooden stairs to find The Workshop
caf. Then I found a table by a giant window that
overlooks The Grand Hotel. Feeling like I was back
in Graham Greenes time, I was sold.
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
HCMC Sandwich Pick: Quoc Huong banh mi
My favourite sandwich in Saigon comes
from a little banh mi stall on the Quoc
Huong-Xuan Thuy intersection in
District 2. Every morning the vendor
stands outside the cart in shorts, a white
sleeveless t-shirt and a bum bag. For
VND10,000 I get the works and it tastes great.
JULIE VOLA
Photographer
Hanoi Cosiest Caf Pick: Joma
Its convenient it might not be the
best latt or best decorated caf in town,
but its comfy and cosy.
HOA LE
Staff Editor
Hanoi Wintertime Street Food Pick: Hotpot
I love going with a group of friends
when I have street food. In winter,
going for a hotpot is always tempting.
We often go for lau vit (duck hotpot)
on Giang Van Minh, lau hai san (seafood
hotpot) on Tran Vu or lau bo nhung dam (beef hotpot)
on Thai Phien.

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID MANN
Staff Editor
david.mann@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
david@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY
Marketing
vy@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN
Staff Writer
jon@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com

TRINH BUI
Sales Executive
trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG
Area Sales Manager Hanoi
giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION
trinh@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS
trang@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668
Special thanks to Julie Vola, Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay,
Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical
Practice, Lisa Johnson, Nicola Connolly, Owen Salisbury, Niko Savvas, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge,
Tae Jun Park, George Burchett, Danny Armstrong, Frankie Randle, Lucy Sexton and all of our judges

Word is a registered
trademark. No content
may be reproduced in
any form without prior
authorisation of the
owners.

DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
Hanoi Cocktail Pick: CAMA ATKs
Negroni
My favourite drink is without a doubt
the Negroni from CAMA ATK.

Word - Duong Huynh


Advertising JSC

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6 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 4 nm 2014.

The prelude
out as a simple Best
of 2014 ended up as
something else our
first annual awards.
The Wordies.
Putting them
together was both
rewarding yet difficult.
On the one hand we
tried to maintain an
element of The Best
of 2014. If you read
the first section of the
cover story, youll see
that weve managed
to do this. Yet we were
also determined to get
a voting system going,
to get a real sense
of what are the best

restaurants, bars, cafs,


destinations, beer
clubs and night clubs
in Vietnam. To do this
we enlisted the help of
60 judges. Our thanks
goes out to every
single one of them.
The other issue was
the time factor. By the
time we received our
judges responses, we
only had a week to
write everything up,
source photos and lay
everything out. That we
achieved this was due
to a quite phenomenal
team effort.
So on this front a

huge shout out for


David Mann, Hoa Le,
Ed Weinberg, Kyle
Phanroy, Kim Vy and
Nguyen Loc for all the
last minute work they
put in to make this
happen.
As ever, we hope
you enjoy the issue.
And if two lots of
Thanksgivings havent
already destroyed
your appetite for
turkey, we hope you
get your well-needed
dose this Christmas.
Happy Holidays!
Nick Ross, Chief
Editor

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION
DECEMBER 2014

W
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he festive
season is
upon us, and
as ever its
an opportunity to
overdose on an excess
of food and drink,
look back on the past
12 months and reflect
on our expanding
waistlines. With Tet on
the horizon, its also a
chance to look ahead.
However, Tet arrives
late this year. So we
decided to take a
retrospective approach
and leave our crystal
ball predictions to
January. What started

NH XUT BN LAO NG

THIS MONTH'S COVER


Cover by DH Advertising
Illustration by Vu Ha Kim Vy

HAVE YOUR SAY


DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM.
NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

inbox

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US
AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

Get Your Credits Right

Ive delayed writing this,


as I enjoy your magazine.
However, in the November
2014 issue of Word,
you credited the wrong
photographer on p.199 of The
Final Say.
What went wrong? Alisher
Sharip is a professional
photographer and I only sent
his photo of me for publication
on condition that he was
credited. Instead, you credited
David Harris.
This error came despite the
fact that Id exchanged at least
three emails with [your writer]
Katie Jacobs about the photo,
one of which was definitely
forwarded to you. These
confirmed the photographers
name was Alisher Sharip.
Alison Bate
Word would like to apologise
to both Alisher Sharip and
Alison Bate for the error.

Print Lives On
I didnt realise how big you were getting. It gets
better all the time. And you seem to have lots of
adverts, too. I know the other mags are smaller,
but they also seem to have a lot of ads. Maybe the
internet isnt killing everything after all. SM

Cooking up a Storm

insider

INSIDER

NATIONAL

The World of
Expat Facebook Groups
C

Whether its snakepits of


despair youre looking for
or that small-town feeling
youve been missing, the
expat groups of Facebook
supply that little touch of
connection that we all
occasionally need.
Words by Niko Savvas
Illustrations by Vu ha
Kim Vy

riticising other peoples use of


Facebook is terribly pass, like
saying you enjoy The Beatles or
hate racism. For all of its faults
(and there are many), this social media
superpower has become an indispensable
part of life for billions of people around the
world. Whether we like it or not, we live
in the Age of Facebook. Terrible puns are
only one consequence of its near-universal
popularity.
Personal opinions aside, its hard to argue
that Facebook doesnt serve many useful
purposes. From the Arab Spring to the
Hong Kong protests, it has given a voice to
the voiceless and opened the worlds eyes
to injustices that once might have gone
unnoticed. Facebook helps charities raise
money for worthy causes, keeps distant
family members connected, and enables
fledgling artists to reach new audiences.
Its also a convenient place to sell your
motorbike.

that never coincide with my days off. In


general my experience has been positive.
Yet I cant shake my primordial loathing
of these forums; a sentiment also held by
most of my friends and coworkers. The
mere mention of a group post is usually
greeted by sympathetic moans, as if we
were discussing war-torn Syria instead of
cyberspace threads.
If youve spent a decent amount of time
in Vietnam, you probably have your own
horror stories of boorish and moronic
behavior online. Anecdotally it seems safe
to say that expat Facebook forums are the
refuge of the stupid and the mean-spirited.
But how much of this is selective memory?
Are our assumptions based on facts or
biases? I decided to investigate.

Hanoi Massive
Most Succulent Trollbait
An entrepreneur offers to sell two cans of
333 beer for VND15,000 or trade them for an
iPhone (76 likes, 24 comments)
A man shares his terrible English
lesson centred around a tired BDSM joke,
comparative insults and euphemisms for fat
people (34 likes, 20 comments)

of writing might be a controversy next


Tuesday), Hanoi Massive seemed like a
remarkably civil group of people. There
were few profanity-laced tirades or threats
of physical violence. Vitriolic bigotry was
almost nonexistent. Solicitations for advice
were generally answered sincerely, instead
of go f-ck yourself or if u dont like it go
home!!!.
The tolerance (and apathy) of the
Massive was astounding a suggestive
photo of a woman in cellulite-eliminating
lingerie failed to inspire a single
diatribe about sexist marketing or uppity
feminists. Instead, it was roundly ignored.
Apparently everybody had something
better to do, like painting or digging for
snails.
If the Illuminati were monitoring Hanoi
Massive, which they most certainly are, they
would find little to cause alarm. It reminded
me of an idyllic small town online folks
buying and selling, sharing recipes, looking
for jobs and love. A couple of sourpusses
moaning about the skateboards and the
rap music, but what can you do? There are
grouches everywhere.

Ngoc, thank you.


Im not interested in
cosplay

After last months article, The World of Expat


Facebook Groups (p. 62, November 2014), a little
Facebook storm kicked off on Expats in Ho Chi
Minh City. Here was what group administrator,
Samuel Faith, had to say about the piece.
Samuel Faith: Im so glad WORD didnt decide to point fingers at any admins.
Not really agreeing with the premise of the article. And at least, AsiaLIFE and others approached us to ask before
writing. Gutless much, WORD editors?
Depending on the
Kindness of Strangers

For expats in Vietnam, Facebook forums


can be an invaluable resource. Need an
English-speaking ophthalmologist? Ask
Facebook. Interested in taking Vietnamese
lessons? A horde of eager, moderately priced
tutors await your reply. Want to know if that
oozing wound on your foot is infected? Skip
the hospital; just share a picture and wait for
the crowd-sourced diagnoses to pour in.
Ive used expat Facebook forums to
find apartments, plan romantic getaways,
and to discover exciting social events

The Methodology

I focused on the main expat groups in


Vietnamese cities with a large number
of foreigners: Hanoi Massive, Danang Hoi
An Expats and Expats in Ho Chi Minh City
(Saigon). I surveyed the first 100 posts in
each group and categorised them into four
types:
General Inquiries and Comments
Buying/Selling
Events
Trollbait

To determine which posts qualified as


Trollbait, I followed the rigorous standards
of Judge Potter Stewarts ruling on
pornography: you know it when you see it.
Lets start in the north.

Words of Wisdom

333 + 333 = 666. Get outta here with your


devil beers!
I dont care about your bloody beer, I just
wish someone could tell me where to buy
some rice?
Im sure I wont need to look far as youll
be cowering in the corner behind your
computer screen, abusing people on the
Internet to satisfy your own insecurities.
Where exactly is that community of sluts?
Ngoc, thank you. Im not interested in
cosplay.

Analysis

Keeping in mind the limitations of small


sample sizes and the unpredictable nature
of viral trends (a non-story at the time

Hanoi Massive

T OTAL M EMBERS :
19,881 (Oct. 13)

P ERCENTAGE

OF

P OSTS :

General Inquiries and Comments 36%


Buying/Selling 45%
Events 17%
Trollbait 2%

wordvietnam.com | November 2014 Word | 63

62 | Word November 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Storms and Teacups


Really glad you wrote that piece on Facebook Groups (p. 62, November 2014). Got some real idiots
posting on there. What would I give to meet a few them face to face and get them to say their comments
out loud. Cowards. PQ
The groups are useful, but some of the posters need to get the hell out of Vietnam. Top level jobs are being
localized, work permits and visas are harder to obtain. Some of the people on there add fuel to the fire,
and given even more reason to get all us foreigners out of this country. Me? Im determined to stay. AR

8 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

the talk

THE TALK

TALK LEAD

Of Road Closures, Bulldozers


and Metro Systems
Work on the Saigon Metro System is in full flow. But not everyones jumping for joy

o all you Hanoians out


there, imagine half the road
circumventing Hoan Kiem lake
being closed off. Not for a couple
of days in honour of a meteoric cultural
event, but for six months.
Yes, people of Hanoi, thats what the
Saigonese are suffering from at this very
moment. A city centre split in two due to
the closure of that thoroughfare, Nguyen
Hue, as well as part of Le Loi, and part of
Le Thanh Ton for good measure. Its chaos.
Well, not exactly. But rush hours have
become bit of a nightmare and crossing
downtown from West to East or East to West
can get a little unpleasant.
Okay, we know youre laughing. Them
upstarts down south dont deserve nothing,
right? But you see, oh people of Hanoi, the
cause of all this is a good one. Unlike you
unfortunate people who have to suffer four
seasons and bone-chilling winters, Ho Chi
Minh City is getting a metro system.
But not just any old metro system. This
one comes with underground shopping
malls stretching from Saigons most famous
landmark, Ben Thanh Market, to its other
most famous landmark, The Opera House.
In between it passes an even more famous
landmark, the former Town Hall, now the
Ho Chi Minh City Peoples Committee
Building. Theres no messing about here
this ones big.

10 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

As for you guys, up north, well if youre


lucky youll get a skytrain. We hear its only
in the discussion phase, so dont worry.
We reckon youve got a few years yet. So
while down south there is frustration and
increased congestion, you guys can sit
back and relax over a bia hoi or four and
contemplate how wonderful the world is.

Mumble and Grumble


Even though Saigon knows the metro
system can only be positive, this street
closure thingumajig hasnt been taken too
well, oh people of the north. Yes, people are
complaining. Businesses are shouting high
murder, and residents, no longer the happy,
happy people of yesteryear are grumbling
over their caf sua da, their copies of Tuoi Tre
and their phablets. Its become infectious.
You see, for those unfortunate to be
located on the closed off streets, business is
down, very down. 60 percent, we are told.
Even 70 percent. And of course, there was no
forewarning. The streets were just blocked
off and that was that.
The cleverer business owners, like our
friends at Pendolasco, are using this as
an excuse to refurbish. Yes, with business
down, now is the time to freshen up for the
reopening of the city centre. But these people
are in the minority.
You see, what all those poor people down
south just dont understand is that the metro

system is being built for the greater good.


And during the construction phase, those
hard-off Saigonese just have to grit their teeth
and bear it. The last time them people of Ho
Chi Minh City were told of a huge change
to the city centre, the destruction of Eden
Mall, there were protests and non-compliant
residents, and banners and all sorts of
obtrusive, unwelcome events. The Vincom
project to build a new Vincom, now called
Union Square, got held up. It cost money.
And then when they tried to clear the
whole of Thu Thiem, that sinking swamp
area in District 2 on the other side of the
Saigon River, some of the residents just
refused to let those bulldozers bulldoze their
houses. It took years and even now, the odd
house or two has remained.
So, this time, things are different. Yes, the
roads will be open again for Apr. 30, the 40th
anniversary celebration of the liberation of
Saigon, and yes the centre of Ho Chi Minh
City will be all modern and crispy clean and
characterful just like Singapore. But there
can be no delays.
But to do this and to have that beloved
metro system Ho Chi Minh City so desires,
so it can ease congestion and become a
member of the Im an important city
because Ive got a metro system club,
sacrifices just have to be made.
To all you Hanoians out there, youll be
next. Its fun! We promise! Nick Ross

the big five

02,03,05,06

DEC.

HANOI / DANANG / HCMC


STABIL ELITE

You could call them Cut Copy meets


Kraftwerk a psychedelic Krautrock
dance experience back-ended by some
pouty, preppy instrumentalists. As electric
as their sound is, theyre not well-known
out here which is why Goethe-Institut
is doing us a service in bringing them out.
Theyll be hitting Hanoi, Danang and Ho
Chi Minh City in addition to Phnom Penh
and Manila for eight dates in December,

07

DEC. SUNDAY
HCMC

giving us a little electro-pop intel from the


land where it was born.
Stabil Elite play the Youth Theatre Hanoi at
11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Dec.
2 at 8pm; Danang University at 131 Luong
Nhu Hoc, Quan Cam Le, Danang, Dec. 3 at
8pm; Bach Viet College at 194 Le Duc Tho,
Go Vap, HCMC, Dec. 5 at 8pm; Ben Thanh
Theatre at 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, HCMC,
Dec. 6 at 8pm. For more info, go to goethe.de/
vietnam

11,12,13

DEC.

HCMC
CAROLS AT THE CONVENT

Get your sing on this month at St


Pauls Convent Chapel. On Dec. 5
and 6, the International Choir and
Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City will hold its
annual charity Christmas concert. Entry is
by donation, there will be a silent auction
and all proceeds support childrens charities
Loreto Vietnam-Australia and Dust of Life
(Poussires de Vie). Artistic Director Brian
Riedlinger will be pulling the (heart) strings.
St Pauls Convent Chapel is at 4 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, HCMC. The concert starts at 7.30pm,
and entry is by donation. There are no reservations,
so seats are at a first-come, first-serve basis

DEC.

HANOI

CAMA ATK TURNS THREE

To celebrate three years of not


renting other peoples venues
bringing live music and DJs to a
venue they can call their own, CAMA is
putting on a three-day extravaganza from
Dec. 11 to Dec. 13.
Starting with Mumbai experimental act,
Pinnochios Moment of Clarity, on Dec. 11,
the celebrations will continue with Florida
duo Tonstartssbandht on the 12th and hiphop DJ Jon Kennedy on the 13th.
For more info go to page 52 or click on camaatk.com

SAIGON COMIC CON 2014

While the manga scene is longestablished, and there are two


cosplay-inspired cafs in town,
Spiderman and Catwoman wannabes
are woefully underserved in Saigon.
Enter Saigons first comic con, the latest
international trend to hit our fair shores
and feed our taste for the new. Though the
organisers are new to the scene, theyre
pulling some powerful strings, and all the
finest gamers, cosplay artists, freaks and
geeks are expected to make it out.
Saigon Comic Con 2014 is at the Phu Tho
Indoor Stadium, 1 Lu Gia, Q11, HCMC.
Doors open 10am and go to 8pm. Tickets are
VND150,000 in advance, VND180,000 at
the door. See our feature on page 30, or go to
facebook.com/comicconhcm

05&06

19&20

DEC.

HANOI / HCMC
JOHN MORALES

Straight out of the Bronx in New


York, and one of the pioneers of
the disco mix, John Morales will
be playing two gigs in Vietnam this month
Dec. 19 at The Observatory in HCMC
and Dec. 20 at CAMA ATK in Hanoi.
A legend of the dance music scene, for more
information go to pages 42 and 55

briefings
We tried to get photos on the night, but
the bodyguards got in the way. So here
is an official image instead. Yup, he is
built like an upside-down triangle with
perfect hair.

BRIEFING

HCMC

A Bender with Beckham


D
Out on the town with a legend... and Niko Savvas

id you guys hear that David


Beckham was in town a few weeks
ago? When I found out, I was
so excited. The guy used to play
soccer for the Los Angeles Galaxy you
dont see many celebrities like that in
Saigon!
He was having a party at Chill Sky Bar to
promote his new booze. I love booze! And I
love parties, but I didnt think Id be able to
attend this one. You needed a special ticket to
get in, and you could only get a special ticket
if you were important.
Now, Im neither of those things, but my
buddy Ed is. Hes an editor for a superimportant magazine (this one!). Ed is so
important, in fact, that he managed to get two
tickets. One of which he gave to me!

Party Time
When we arrived at the bar, there were a
lot of people waiting outside. They didnt
have tickets, so they couldnt come in. The
security guards were scowling at them. But
when Ed and I showed up with our special
tickets, the guards let us right in. VIPs,
coming through!
We took an elevator up to the rooftop,
because all the best parties are on rooftops.
You could see the whole city from up there!

12 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

We even spotted a homeless family begging


for change at a street corner, but that was
depressing so we decided to get some booze
instead.
Did I mention that the booze was free?
For Ed and me, anyway. We had these
invisible stamps on our hands so we didnt
have to pay for anything. Everybody was
really nice to us when they saw our stamps!
Other people had to pay for their drinks
because they didnt have invisible stamps.
But Ed and I got a whole bottle of the
Beckham-endorsed booze for nothing, plus
all the ice we wanted! Only big shots with
stamps got free ice.
David Beckham showed up around
11pm. Hes a really handsome guy. You can
see why Posh Spice married him. Hes built
like an upside-down triangle with perfect
hair.
Everybody was really excited to see
him. Suddenly the room was filled with
camera flashes and screaming ladies. I got
so dizzy I almost fell over. It was just like
having a seizure, except fun! A mohawked
Vietnamese mobster splattered scotch all
over my suit.
Excuse me sir, I think you spilled your
drink, I said.
Shut the f-ck up, he replied.

Hahaha! Celebrity parties get so crazy


sometimes!

Getting Excited Around the Stars

I tried to say hello to Beckham, but one of his


bodyguards got in my way. He looked like an
ex-paratrooper, or maybe an MMA fighter.
Its okay, buddy, Ive got a stamp!
The bodyguard didnt move. The music
was pretty loud so he probably couldnt
hear me. He did let some other people go by,
though. Maybe they had better stamps.
Then a Vietnamese pop starlet in white
booty shorts did a dance performance. There
were fireworks and lasers everywhere. She
was super pretty! I wanted to say hello to
her, too, but the security bros wouldnt let me
onto the balcony.
Who do I look like, one of those stampless
bums outside? I asked, but nobody was
listening.
At midnight, Beckham left the party. We
all lined up to say goodbye. Everybody was
feeling good one of his bodyguards even
high-fived me on the way out! I was trying
to take a picture at the time, which kind
of stinks, but I understood where he was
coming from.
You cant help but get excited around the
stars!

Photos by Tarryn-Lee Stevens-King

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HCMC

The Axis of Not Cricket


On the launch of a new cricket season, all eyes stay on the prize
their stance towards the game they simply
reply, Not loving it.
Yet head to the subcontinent, and for half
a billion Indians a good googly is like a good
breakfast essential for a young mans
development. If that goes over your head
and youre in a happy Vietnamese cocoon
of a non-cricket situation, its fair to say that
leather-on-willow just isnt your thing. Youll
never understand the vagaries of the five-day
test, nor ponder the value of an extra slip
before tea. Youll remain apathetic about the
T20 mercenary, and its likely that youll never
enjoy a well-timed pull without an element of
adolescent guilt. Leg before wicket? Go back to
jumping rope.
Jon Aspin

The Allies

he thing about cricket is well,


its cricket isnt it? Most of the
world loves it, thats a fact, but
there remains a recalcitrant
minority. A report released by the Bureau
of Accurate Information confirms the existence
of rogue states still yet to adopt cricket as
their national pastime.
North and South America, mainland
Europe, China, most of Africa and a fair bit
of Asia that isnt China Im looking at you.
Unafraid to name names, it further alleges
that these anti-cricketers have organised
themselves into what the bureau calls The
Axis of Not Cricket, and when asked about

14 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

For those of us of the opposite persuasion, start


jumping for joy. Last month in Saigon saw the
return of the Vietnam Cricket Associations
multinational T20 league. Now in its 9th edition,
and still being played on the best oval and only
cricket wicket in Vietnam, the action has already
gone tropical along with the heat.
Now, in cricket as in life, there is no room for
impartiality, modesty or balance when it comes
to the facts. For example the United Cricket
Club (UCC) will win the league this season
(there you go I said it). But nice guys dont
often win in this game, rather they get smashed
for 27 off an over, bat down the order and
end up ruing the day they ever got involved
because the English Cricket Club (ECC) were
one short. Nevertheless, it is these people that
make the game great and one of them is John
Patrick, or JP to his fans. JP makes the game

great on two fronts. Hes an American who


thinks he might be Australian, which makes
him a renegade. More importantly though, hes
achieved something special before his teams
even bowled a ball this year.
The Florida native and self-confessed former
volleyballer, science teacher and massive
Gators fan has had a huge offseason by taking
it upon himself to get the Australian teams crest
tattooed on his upper-thigh. Youre reading that
correctly. Hes had what essentially amounts to
the Aussie coat of arms tattooed permanently
on his body, and its not small.
Any American who will do this is alright
with me, and any cricketer who will do it
deserves a place in the hall of fame. Credit
has to go to the Saigon Australia Cricket Club
(SACC) administration, who immediately
rewarded the act with a free lifetime
membership at the club. Correct weight boys,
youve earnt some respect back there.
The original idea was beer-fuelled, admits
JP. We had just won the cup, sure, but it
reminds me of a tough time and some great
guys that got me through it. The fact that they
gave me a life membership for as long as Im
in town is a bonus.
And that right there is why I still love
cricket. A great leveller, a good clean way to
spend your Sunday morning in Saigon and
a game thats loved by all, a few recalcitrant
minorities aside. Jon Aspin
Check out the action at RMITs South Saigon
campus any given Sunday from 8am, when the first
of two weekly games kick off. The season runs from
now until the end of May. Check facebook.com/
VietnamCricket for more info

briefings

Photos provided by Tet Lifestyle Collection

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Fragrant Path
Green Tea Gardens

To the northwest of Hanoi lies one of its best-kept secrets

erraces of native trees tumble


to the quiet valley floor, where
a fruit orchard, vegetable patch
and a once-lost tea plantation are
nourished by a clear mountain stream
descending from the surrounding hills.
Nestled in this oasis lies one of the areas
newest and best-kept secrets Fragrant
Path Green Tea Gardens a nature
retreat dedicated to rest, relaxation and
restoration. Ringed by low-forested hills,
Fragrant Path sits in the peaceful Dai Lai
Valley to the northwest of Hanoi. A mere
hours drive from downtown is all it takes
for the noise to dissipate, the air to clear
and a quiet calm to settle.
Fragrant Path is the latest offering from
the Tet Lifestyle Collection, a boutique
hospitality company with properties
throughout the north of Vietnam. A decade
in the making, the company is finally
opening the doors to this gem, offering
Hanoians a chance to escape the hustle and
bustle of city life and connect with the areas
natural surroundings.
First purchased as a small plot back in
the early 2000s, the Tet Lifestyle team have

16 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

gradually been adding to Fragrant Path


over the past decade. The property is a
work in progress, a journey, says Pete
Wilkes, co-founder of the Tet Lifestyle
Collection. Weve slowly been adding
small things here and there. But everything
is organic, everything is handmade,
everything has a story.
The result is a sprawling property dotted
with gardens, artwork and 12 reconstructed
houses relocated from around northern
Vietnam and restored on site. The houses,
the oldest of which is 180 years, not only
serve as dining and sleeping locations, but
also retreats for art, reflection and yoga.
Linking the houses is a series of trails and
hand-built stone walls leading guests past
gardens and lotus ponds, along the ridge
that encircles the area and into the hidden
valley at the back of the property.

A Return
When we first bought the land we had no
idea this valley even existed, says Pete.
The forest was so thick that it wasnt until
we started following the creek through the
dense vegetation that we realised there was

an entire valley hidden behind the property


so we named it Hidden Valley.
The discovery of the 80-year-old tea
plantation happened in much the same
way. After cutting back the forest the team
discovered rows upon rows of old tea
bushes. Today, the plantation is once again
harvested and visitors are invited to sample
the fragrant green brew.
With overnight accommodation starting
early next year, guests will be able to stay
in lovingly decorated earth houses filled
with antique collectables, handmade
furniture and decorations crafted in
Vietnams northwest minority villages. In
the meantime, Pete and his team are offering
day excursions, known as Nourishment
Days. Designed to harmonise body and
mind, these day-retreats include a hands-on
organic Vietnamese cooking class, restorative
yoga, meditation, trekking and massage.
Katie Jacobs
Fragrant Paths Nourishment Days are held
once a month and include transport to and from
Hanoi. The property is also open for private
groups by appointment. For more info, visit tetlifestyle-collection.com/fragrant-path

briefings
BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Who Let the Dogs Out?


Hanoi gets a new street food, and its Danish

ove over humble banh


mi, because theres a
new meaty sandwich
on the block.
Jeppe Haugstrup, an IT
programmer from Denmark
and a part-owner of popular
hangouts Spy Bar and Tay Tap,
is currently in the midst of
perfecting a new food trend set
to sweep across the streets of
Hanoi: the Danish hotdog.
The authentic treat aims to
tap into the demand for meaty
sandwiches that remain ever
popular in Vietnam. But Jeppe
hopes that his premium snack
will be a game changer.
Vietnamese people are now
earning more and we believe
there is a strong demand for a
high quality product like ours,
says Jeppe. The Danish hotdog
is less about the bread and more
about the taste.
His accomplice, Soren, is an

old friend from Denmark and


a butcher by trade. During a
drunken night in Manila, the
pair came up with the idea to
go into business and produce
authentic Danish hotdogs in
Hanoi. Two months later and
that drunken thought bubble
lets be honest, they can be the
best kind is now a reality.

Prime Cuts
After disappearing into the Spy
Bar kitchen, Soren returns with a
neat square of brown paper folded
around one of his spectacular
creations. Walking me through it,
he explains that compared with
usual hotdog sausages, which are
actually quite low on protein, our
sausages are 80 percent meat and
we only use prime cuts.
We also use no artificial
flavours and the sausage is our

Photo by David Harris

18 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

own recipe: pork, beef, spices


and a special ingredient to give
it a little kick, he says, his eyes
gleaming.
So whats on top of this glorious
Danish sausage? A sprinkling
of fried onions, raw onions, an
authentic Danish sauce known as
remoulade (a concoction of ketchup,
mustard, vinegar, vegetables
and spices), cucumber salad,
ketchup and a dollop of mustard.
All of these elements are neatly
sandwiched into a modestly sized
hotdog bun, custom-made for
Jeppe and Sorens creation.

At the Ready
Having litmus-tested their
Danish wieners with Spy Bars
clientele, the pair hopes to
gradually roll out hotdog stands
across the Old Quarter.
Weve spent a month and half

developing this and people love


it. We really wanted to make sure
it was perfect, Jeppe says with
one of his patented, no-jokingaround looks. We already have
people buying the sausages by
the kilo from us and we hope one
day we can expand the operation
to include selling to hotels and
restaurants.
Adds Soren: Were also
working on an even more
premium sausage with sundried
tomato and olive, as well as an
Italian sausage and German
bratwurst.
For now, the hotdog is the
main game and you can buy
one of these glorious explosions
of deliciousness at Spy Bar for
VND35,000 a pop. But dont be
surprised if you see them dished
out at stands around Ma May in
the not-too-distant future.
So what does this humble
writer have to say about this
100-year-old recipe perfected in
Hanoi by these two burly Danes?
Ill have two more, thanks.
David Mann

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

In Transition:
Ha Hoi
Developers are trying to give a classic
area of the capital a makeover. Yet
the 1930s buildings of the past refuse
to give way. Words by Katie Jacobs.
Photo by David Harris

ucked between Hoan


Kiem and Thien Quang
Lakes lies an area of
Hanoi that time seems
to have forgotten.
With (relatively) quiet
winding streets, vines of flowers
tumbling over courtyard walls
and cute boutiques occupying
every corner, classical colonial
mansions and 1930s villas stand
stoically among the chaos of
modern day Hanoi.
The area has hardly changed
since I was born here in the
1960s, says Chi Hoa, owner of
Cafe 67, a coffee shop located in
the renovated garage of an old
French-style house on Tran Quoc
Toan, one of the areas main
thoroughfares. A little busier
perhaps, and more crowded
with people and motorbikes, but
there are very few significant
differences.
That is until recently, when
a glossy new building shot up
next door to the 100-year-old
house. With the destruction of
the original villa five years ago,
number 65 is now the site of an
eight-storey apartment block.
The sparkling white exterior
and grand scale provide a sharp
contrast with the faded glory of
the neighbouring low rises. Not
that the new construction is the
only contemporary building in
this quarter. Newer buildings
dot the streets, often creating a
hybrid mismatch that reflects

the changing times and styles of


Hanoi. But this bold new arrival
towering over the intersection
of Ha Hoi and Tran Quoc Toan
streets is impossible to miss.

Saving Face
In all fairness, the peaked
window mouldings and
French-style doors leading
onto wrought-iron balconies
suggest attempts have been
made to mimic the neighbouring
aesthetic. The result, however,
lacks the delicate details of
adjacent buildings, making it
seem a little too big and a little
too gaudy.
The older buildings are more
beautiful than the new ones
and it would be good if they
could be all renovated, says
Chi Hoa. But old buildings
are uncomfortable and new
buildings make more money.
A new rule has been put into
place since the villa at number
65 was knocked down. Owners
are no longer allowed to destroy
old buildings without first going
through a long approval process,
making it more difficult to
replace old buildings with new
ones.
But with the promise of
money, people will always
find ways around this rule,
continues the coffee shop
owner. Then the character of
the neighbourhood will really
change.

20 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 21

The veterinary science student-training clinic at Thai Nguyen University.


The 70th school Cargill have built in Vietnam.

Charity
of
the

Month

Cargill

This months spotlight is on an organisation that comes from a


background opposed to most that we feature and theyve brought
their business acumen with them

s a global producer and marketer


of food, agricultural, financial and
industrial products and services,
Cargill employ 142,000 people in
67 countries. Thats a pretty complicated
organisational chart in anyones language.
It also makes them unlike most of the
other Charity of the Months weve been
featuring in these pages. They dont need
your donation, but that doesnt mean
theyre not worthy of a mention for the
great things theyve been doing all over
the country.
Since arriving here 19 years ago, under
the umbrella brand of Cargill Cares,
theyve been building a boatload of schools
of all kinds, and last month marked
number 70 a milestone for the company.
The latest build is a veterinary science
student-training clinic at Thai Nguyen
University of Agriculture & Forestry, 90km
north of our nations capital. It will give
students hands-on experience and provide
animal treatment services for livestock
farmers in surrounding communities.
Constructed at a cost of over VND1
billion, the clinic includes examination and
medical storage rooms, and is outfitted
with diagnostic and testing facilities.
We have no idea what that means, but it
sounds pretty awesome. As a leader in

22 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

animal nutrition, Cargill will also share


its IP with students teaching them the
latest techniques in animal husbandry and
welfare.
With this project a specialised
counterpoint to most of its school-building
history Cargill is directly contributing to
Vietnams knowledge infrastructure. Tran
Nhat Thang, a lecturer at the university
said, Cargills clinic is such a valuable
asset to us. Previously, we had to work
and teach under challenging conditions
deteriorating infrastructure, obsolete
equipment, and students suffered from
[a] lack of practical, hands-on experience.
With the new clinic, these issues have all
been resolved, and we now have the ability
to train students with different animal
species to broaden their expertise.

A Partner in Progress
Cargills school-building programme
has been recognised several times by the
Vietnamese government recognition
that includes the Labour Medal Class 3,
given by President Nguyen Minh Triet.
It aims to provide access to education
for students from low-income families
in rural Vietnamese communities, and at
present estimates has achieved exactly
that for around 13,000 students proving

that with great responsibility comes great


opportunity.
Chanh Truong, country representative
for Cargill Vietnam, said, We are
incredibly proud to have reached our
70-school milestone after 19 years of hard
work. All this was made possible through
our shared goal of helping rural students
have a better life. Together with our
employees, customers and suppliers, we
are committed to supporting our countrys
future leaders and ensuring that Vietnam
thrives.
The aim for Cargill is not to stop there.
Their goal is 17,000 students helped and
75 schools built by the end of their 20th
anniversary in Vietnam which happens
to be next year. While its easy to be
cynical about the big players profiting
from their presence in developing
nations, when you read this story, visit
their website and watch their videos, its
nice to see them making good on their
commitment.
Congratulations Cargill, youre doing
what you said you would, we all look
forward to hearing about school number
75. Jon Aspin
To track Cargills school-building effort, go
to cargill.com/connections/building-schools-invietnam

briefings

F
Surfing
BRIEFINGS

MUINE

Suoi Nuoc

On Nov. 19 and 20, the surf


once again rolled in on the
competitors of the 4th Annual
Suoi Nuoc Sunrise, Surf &
S.U.P Competition, and some
slick moves were rolled out

24 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

or the past four years, Stephen


Quinn has been organising a
showcase for Vietnams nascent
surfing culture. Through his quirky
adventure travel agency, AHI Co. Ltd,
the tourney has gone a long way towards
growing the surfing community in the
kitesurfing badlands of Mui Ne. This
years event drew competitors from all
over the watersports world, and the water
was kind enough to provide clean threeto-four-foot swells in the lightly windy
conditions.
After waiting most of the month for
ideal conditions, the 4th Annual Suoi Nuoc
Sunrise, Surf & S.U.P Competition was
called for consecutive mornings on Nov.
19 and 20.
The first morning hosted the surf part of
the competition, with the newly-launched
womens division coming up first. Russias
Anfisa Grigorova and Sasha Kiseleva
battled it out in the final, with Anfisa
coming out the winner and earning a new
Jibes surfboard in the process.
The mens final then took place, with
local Vietnamese rider Phi up against
Spanish surfer Albert Pijoan Monne. These
guys had knocked out 30 other riders from
Russia, Bali and Vietnam to make it to the
final and, with a Starboard surfboard

up for grabs, neither held back as the lead


changed right throughout the final. In the
end, after a judges tally, Albert emerged
the winner by half a point.
Stand-Up Paddle
The next morning competitors were
greeted by clean three-foot waves and
light offshore winds. With 10 SUP riders
in action, they took to the water as the
predicted onshore winds arrived. The
conditions became more challenging as the
morning unfolded.
In the end, Russias Oleksandr
Olefirenko and Alex Shafinsky battled it
out to see who would take the main prize
of a Starboard inflatable SUP board. After
another tight final, Oleksandr emerged
victorious. That ended the competition
part of the event.
At the awards ceremony, over VND60
million in prizes were handed out, giving
the competition one of the biggest prize
pools for amateur surfing in Southeast Asia.
Then the sun set on another day of sick airs,
spectacular shove-its and absolutely no
paddlepusses, paving the way for a brighter
surfing future in Suoi Nuoc.
To stay up to date on the next Suoi Nuoc
Sunrise, Surf & S.U.P Competition, keep
ahivietnam.com on your speed dial

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi


6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist
Tel:
T
el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330
pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C
238 P asteur
asteur, Dist. 3
Tel:
T
el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682
pr@aulacdobrazil.com

briefings

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

The Love Belows


Neighbourhood Tour

The Love Below asks the question: Whats a Saigonese band got to do to
get some national notoriety?

fter an 11-day, 10-show, six-city


tour, The Love Below got back to
Saigon with one question, at least in
the mind of vocalist / keyboardist
Tanya Smackdab Why dont we do this
tour thing forever?
Basically it was a paid vacation where we
got to play our original music, she says. It
was well-received we sold about 40 EPs,
and already have plans to go back to some of
these cities.
The hip hop/funk/soul combos itinerary
read like this:
8/11, Vung Tau Private party (Gas and
Oil golf tournament after party. Oh yeeeeaaa)
9/11, Vung Tau Haven Bar (Day 2 of our
tour!)
10/11, Mui Ne Joes Cafe (Free entry, free
peach shot)
11/11, Mui Ne Joes Cafe (Feeeeel that
groove!)
12/11, Nha Trang M Lounge (We ready to
tear it up Russian style)
13/11, Danang Luna Pub Danang
([They] treated us like family and showed us
an amazing time)
14/11, Hoi An Live Music Soul Kitchen
(Theres so much love in Central VN its
making us cry!)
15/11, Hanoi Fashion Fringe Festival after

26 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

party at Hanoi Rock City (That was hella


fun!)
16/11, Hanoi The Doors Caf (Oooooh
baby, I I I cant wait!)
They got home in time to play a show at
Saigons La Fenetre Soleil, in front of the home
crowd. The room was electric. Talking about
the tour, Tanya said, The weirdest thing was
mainly seeing all the small expat communities
in these smaller cities of Vietnam. Great vibes
but Saigon is much crazier.

Dear Diary
After the tour, bassist / vocalist Gabriel

Kaouros wrote down some impressions for us:


It was the first official musical tour any
of us have ever been on, so we were all quite
excited and were not exactly sure what to
expect. But the experience was unforgettable.
It was a great chance for us to come closer as a
band and as friends. Playing a show every night
for nine days straight, and taking buses and flights
almost every day can get a bit tiring after a while
but we usually had time to relax and enjoy
ourselves, the towns we were in and the wonderful
people that were hosting us.
We had a great reception everywhere we
played, especially in Danang (Luna Pub) and
Hoi An (Soul Kitchen) where the owners and
entertainment company (Soundcheck Vietnam)
treated us like family and showed us an amazing
time. Hanoi Rock City was also a great place and
crowd to play for.
It was interesting talking to people along the
way and getting a feel for the music scenes in the
rest of Vietnam and how they are also lacking in
many ways. We received a lot of praise and support
from people, both musicians and music lovers, and
we hope that this tour serves as an example and
inspiration to other musicians in Saigon and across
Vietnam to follow their dreams and take the music
as far as it can go.
You can follow The Love Below at soundcloud.
com/thelovebelow-1

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

The Rant
You Read That Article
About Facebook,
Didnt You?
On Facebook, cats, The Top 10 Things You Didnt Know About Toothpicks! and
Niko Savvass neuroses

snt that the only reason youre reading


this one too? If you didnt read that article
last month I wrote about expat Facebook
groups, where I described Expats in Ho Chi
Minh City as a vicious snake pit of despair,
then I apologise. Just flip around there are
nice adverts somewhere.
All right, they gone? Lets get down to
business. You read that article. I know you
did because A) this magazine employs covert
home-surveillance squads or B) you liked it
on Facebook.
A lot of you liked it. Some of you shared
it too (thanks Mom!). It was really validating
I mustve refreshed the browser a hundred
times, giggling as the likes piled up.
It was like getting a gold star, but for
grownups.
Theres only one problem with that article
about Facebook, which is: writing it really,
really sucked. I thought it would be a fun
little experiment, but it wasnt fun at all.
Whatever the opposite of fun is, unfun I
guess, you could dunk it in a big barrel of
sadness and roll it in anger bits, then top it off
with a hearty scoop of self-loathing. Thats
how writing the Facebook article tasted.

Feline Frustrations
But you liked it. And that puts me in a bit of a
pickle, because the editors at Word are always
telling us to write stuff that readers will like.
This is really hard. Trying to guess what
readers like is like trying to choose the perfect
toy for a cat. You guys like cats, right?
Of course you like cats. Readers like the
dumbest things. Like articles about Facebook,
or The Top 10 Things You Didnt Know About
Toothpicks! You like lists, dont you? Theyre
easy to read, and they often have pictures.
What kind of pictures do you like? Pictures

of hot naked boobs, Id guess, but we cant


really show a lot of boobs in this magazine.
Especially naked boobs.
Forget about boobs for a minute, you
pervert.
What else are you into? You strike me as an
intelligent, physically attractive person who
smells nice. You must have some interests I
can write about.
How about food? I could totally write you
an article about food. Theres a tiny restaurant
on the outskirts of District 12 that serves this
unique kind of fermented fish soup from
Danang. Its almost impossible to find and its
only open for 15 minutes every third Tuesday,
but the soup is great! The cook uses a special
blend of spices you can only find in certain
aisles at Big C. This is a must-try if youre into
obscure regional cuisines. Its well worth the
two-hour drive!
No? Youre not into fish soups? Okay, lets
try again.
Music! You guys must like music! Theres
a lot of music going on in Saigon, much of
it listenable. Did you hear about the Finnish
art-pop duo playing at Le Gran Douche next
week? Better grab your tickets fast they
recently hit #473 on the Scandinavian Hot
500!
If youre interested, I can probably get you
on the VIP guest list. For free.
Please, somebody take these tickets.
Okay, so you dont like eating and youre
philosophically opposed to music. We can
work with this. Ill just have to reach a little
deeper into my magic writers bag of ideas.
What about architecture? Architecture is
cool, isnt it? (Architecture means buildings.)
There are tons of buildings in this city. Some
are really big and old. Theyre trying to tear
down many of these big old buildings so they

can make big new buildings. Doesnt this


make you mad? How can they just demolish
pieces of history like that? If a city loses its
colonial-era boot factories, it also loses its
soul.
Wait, theyre putting an H&M there? Tear
that motherf-cker down!
Forget the architecture. You guys are a
tough crowd. If I knew writing was going
to be this hard I wouldve chosen an easier
career, like neurosurgery or dolphin hunting.
Cant you help me out a little here?
Of course travel! You good-looking
genius, you! Travel is the perfect thing to
write about. I travel all the time, often to
places that youve probably never heard of.
I learn a lot of life lessons that way. Would
you like me to write some of them down in a
mildly condescending morality tale?
No? Jesus.

Me and You
I give up. You people are impossible to please.
Ive gone through all five kinds of ideas Im
capable of having, and youre not impressed
by any of them. You know how that makes
me feel?
We have a relationship, you and I. And
relationships are a game of give-and-take.
I give you a story, and you take it home to
read. Then you pat me on the back for being
a great writer, and later I become rich and
famous. There may be another step in there
somewhere, but its not important.
When you stop reading, the relationship
falls apart. If youre not going to read an
article just because its boring and poorly
written, what am I supposed to do? Choose
more interesting topics? Write better?
Pfft, please. From now on youre getting
nothing but lists of Facebooks sluttiest cats

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 29

briefings
BRIEFINGS

HCMC

Saigon Comic Con 2014


As Saigonese geeks get more discerning, a comic con is born

Comic Con this year in New York

irst off heres a standard


disclaimer:
I went to the New York Comic Con this
year. It was one of the coolest things
Ive ever been to. I wished I was dressed as
Deadpool, so I could have hung out with all
the other wacky kids dressed as Deadpool and
posed for silly pictures all day. I also went to
Burning Man this year Comic Con blew it out
of the water. Comic Con is my Burning Man.
So, hearing that Saigon is hosting its first
comic con brought an arch to my eyebrow.
Would there be as much free swag? Would
there be cool swag that you have to pay for,
but dont mind because its so cool (see my
Nintendo cartridge-shaped flask)? Would there
be as many Doctor Whos? Would there be as
many dreamboats who might probably!
want to become my girlfriend and dress up in
their Psylocke and Poison Ivy costumes more
often than is normal?
Organiser Kyle Farr tempers my
expectations slightly when we meet. One
thing thats been a challenge, he says, is
weve tried to stay true to the original [San
Diego] Comic Con, but at the same time weve
had to adapt for the local market. They dont
even translate Marvel and DC comics into
Vietnamese yet. And thats a big issue because
it basically means people arent as into

30 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

western comic book characters as they might


be in the US.
Theyve branched out to the more localised
aspects of geek culture professional gamers,
local pop-style artists, manga and anime
stuff, dance contests and are bringing
an awesome team of cohorts to the party.
Tastemakers Yan Live are co-organising and
doing their share of the heavy lifting. Everyone
Pikachu, Doraemon, those girls wearing the
sassy nurse costumes is invited.
Thats what is takes to start a movement.

Future Comix
So, the upshot of my interview with Kyle and
Anna Thu Nguyenova recent transplants
to Saigon from Prague, and the team behind
Saigon Comic Con 2014 is that theyre being
methodical and far-reaching in stacking the
pieces, but no-one knows exactly which way
theyll fall.
One burning question is in their minds
will the cool geeks show up?
Kyle says, We do plan on seeding were
renting costumes and having costumes made,
just to make sure we have that foundation to
go off of. And were also having a costume
contest, for people who dress up in western
costumes. Were really trying to encourage and
develop that aspect of Comic Con.

[And TVN Comics] might be publishing


Marvel / DC comics in the next year.
Oh yeah! Anna says. They would like to
get the rights.
This is an important development,
Spiderman-wise. I would like us to be the
platform where we can encourage that, she
continues, There is already a community of
Marvel fans in Vietnam, and they translate
for each other. People dont read comics in
English, so theres a bunch of geeks who
translate it to Vietnamese, they put it online,
they read to each other... theres a community
of western comics fans, and we are hoping that
this is another step for them to do more and
more.
Kyle sees exciting potential here. I see our
role more as building the demand for that...
Were more of a platform to show whats
already out there, to get people more interested
in it. Then I think as demand increases, well
see more supporters rallying around and
starting to demand more in this area. Ed
Weinberg
The Saigon Comic Con 2014 is at Phu Tho
Indoor Stadium, 1 Lu Gia, Q11, HCMC on
Sunday Dec. 7. Doors open at 10am and go
until 8pm. Tickets are VND150,000 in advance,
VND180,000 at the door. Head to facebook.com/
comicconhcm for more info

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

On the Dock of a Bay


The pioneer luxury resort in Vietnam turns 10

t is difficult to imagine Vietnams beach


destinations without the top-end resorts,
but at the turn of the millennium there
were perhaps only a couple of four-stars
serving beachgoers looking for sun, sea,
sand and luxury.
The years that followed saw the arrival
of many pretenders, but true luxury only
came to Vietnam with the 2004 opening of
Six Senses in Ninh Van Bay. Hidden away
on a peninsula north of Nha Trang, and
with access only by boat, this was the first
exclusive, top-end property in this country.
Attracting royalty and top celebrities
the likes of Prince Andrew, Prince Harry
and Prince William are said to have stayed
there, as have Michael Schumacher and
apparently Madonna a decade later,
it still remains one of the top resorts in
Vietnam.
Yet despite age bringing wisdom,
experience and market recognition, it also
brings risk. Says Ninh Van Bay general
manager, Gary Henden, After four
years a property needs to be a little bit
reinvented. You need to look at your market
niche, because your market changes is
it families, is it couples? What are you
attracting? So you need to adapt your
business model quite a bit.
Its one thing to build something beautiful,
but keeping it at the top of its game requires
constant work, constant reinvention.

From Humble Beginnings


Ninh Van Bay was the original brainchild of
then Six Senses managing director, Bernhard
Bohnenberger (known as BB). Having
worked as part of the development team on

Ana Mandara in Nha Trang in the late 1990s,


the linguist he speaks five languages
was determined that Vietnam could cater
for the luxury market.
He was really interested in one of the
islands off Nha Trang, says Gary. But then
the owners [of Ana Mandara] took him to
Ninh Van Bay. Back then there was only a
shack on the beach and a coconut plantation.
And that was about it. Ana Mandara used to
use it as their picnic beach.
At the time there were no international
resort chains in Vietnam Ana Mandara
and Six Senses were the first to take their
products to Vietnams beach destinations
so the exclusivity and seclusion of Ninh Van
Bay was a hard sell.
It was difficult getting luxury travellers
to come to Vietnam when the country first
really opened up, explains Gary. It was
either real pioneers in the luxury market or
backpackers coming through Vietnam and
firing an AK47. So, it was tough at the start.
He adds: But really the last three to four
years have been really strong. Of course,
the economic downtown around the world
meant that everyone suffered, but its been
good ever since.
Since the opening of Ninh Van Bay, only
a handful of other properties in this country
have tried to cater for the truly top-end
visitor The Nam Hai, Amanoi just south
of Nha Trang and Six Senses Con Dao. For
Gary, the arrival of these other resorts has
been positive it helps build Vietnam into
a luxury destination.

other destinations in Vietnam? According


to Gary its the location.
The setting is beautiful, he says.
Its got a bit of everything. Its got the
mountains, the rocks, the jungle, the beach,
its got the coral reef, its private, youre
not affected by the surroundings. Its really
a little bubble, a self-sustainable bubble.
And I think its one of these timeless
destinations.
And yet when he first arrived at the
resort three years ago, it was starting to
look a bit dated. So, he focused initially on
upgrading the public areas, the spaces that
everyone sees. The beach bar was rebuilt,
work was done on the restaurants and the
concepts, and Gary tried to do more fresh
and funky things like bringing in guest
chefs. They also used the idea of staging a
10-year anniversary party as a goal to help
them make a number of changes.
To keep yourself at the top of the
market, he says, you can never stop
working.
For more info on Six Senses Ninh Van Bay,
click on sixsenses.com

Staying Ahead of the Game


So what sets Ninh Van Bay apart from

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 31

briefings
BRIEFINGS

HCMC

The Great
Escape
In a locked room, the only
way to go is out

he door locks closed with a thunk,


rendering the four of us silent as our
eyes adjust to the dim light. A tiny
room, an office maybe, a century or
so before our time. Old, musty, a few books
and ornaments scattered about. A chalky
outline of a body laid out on the wooden
floor.
The timer! my girlfriend and appointed
Chief Inspector exclaims. We turn and look
up at the large, illuminated countdown on
the wall. The clock is indeed ticking.
With less than an hour remaining to
identify the killer and escape from this
shadowy world of sin, the space is suddenly
alive with activity as we scour every shelf,
cupboard and upturned flowerpot for clues.
Whats in there? I enquire, pointing
to an as-yet-unopened drawer in the
dresser, twirling the tips of my imaginary
moustache.
We dont know, comes a muffled reply.
My friends head has vanished beneath
the heavy oak desk as he searches for more
fragments of the jigsaw hes assembling.
Theres a combination padlock on it four
digits. Here, take this
A leather-bound journal appears in my
hands. Written in elaborate cursive script,
the last entry is cut short, ending midsentence. Something about a jealous lover,
an illegal business deal gone wrong. And so
it begins

A Global Phenomenon Turns


Vietnamese
This summer, an international phenomenon
arrived in Saigon, bringing with it daily
spates of murder and deceit, crimes too
heinous even for these pages. But fear not,
dear citizens, it is but a game, and quite
possibly unlike any youve played before.
Global entertainment franchise The Escape
Hunt Experience invites you to flex your
finest Sherlock-esque lexicon (deerstalkers
optional) and test your crime-solving, codecracking and lateral-thinking puzzle skills
in this, Vietnams first live room-escape
gaming adventure.
Similar to popular online point-and-click
room-escape games such as The Crimson

32 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Room and MOTAS (the genre having first


leapt from the virtual environs of the
internet to the real-world in 2011 via an
abandoned Budapest basement), players
are transported back to early 20th century
Saigon to be locked inside a room and
presented with a crime scene. From here,
by solving a series of interlinked clues and
challenges in the one-hour time limit, the
key to the door, the identity of the culprit
and a well-earned cup of English tea in the
opulent reception area can be yours. Your
team photo may even make it onto the
prestigious wall of fame.
The Escape Hunt arrived in Bangkok in
July 2013, in Southeast Asias first exposure
to the concept, and quickly became the
citys number one-rated attraction on
TripAdvisor. Not surprisingly then,
the Saigon branch has also just landed
itself the top spot after a flood of highly
positive reviews. With three unique games
available in English and Vietnamese, the
semi-secretive District 3 location (ideal
for impressing your friends) has drawn
in scores of tourists and locals alike since
opening, with high schools and corporate
groups also making use of the teambuilding, cooperative elements of the
challenges within.
When groups of people come here,
says Ngan, the branchs cheerful overseer,
they may be backpackers who just met
in their hostel or colleagues from a local
business, but after playing our games they
leave like old friends. It brings people
together.
Ngan is clearly proud to be part of such
a unique attraction in Saigon, a city where
a few days of exploring museums and
markets can leave visitors feeling a little
underwhelmed and sweaty.
People want something else to do a
cool place to visit, she says. The Escape
Hunt is definitely that, in both senses of the
word. Simon Stanley
The Escape Hunt Experience is situated above
The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf (entrance via the
rear staircase), 60-62 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Ho Chi Minh City. For more info, go to
hochiminhcity.escapehunt.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 33

briefings

IN BRIEF

Tuan Snatches Record


Thach Kim Tuan broke his
own Asian record to bag a
gold medal at the International
Weightlifting Federation
World Championships 2014 in
Kazakhstan in November,
according to Thanh Nien.
The 20-year-old Saigonese
weightlifter successfully lifted
135kg in the mens 56kg snatch
to break his Asian record of
134kg, achieved at the 2014
Asian Games in Incheon.

Vietnamese Youngsters
Swing into Action
More than 400 young golfers
from Vietnam, other countries
in the ASEAN region and South
Africa will compete at the
Kids Golf World Championship
2014 in Malaysia next month,
according to Thanh Nien.
Young people between the
ages of five and 18 years from
over 20 countries are expected
to compete in Johor Baru from
Dec. 8 to Dec. 12.

Willing and Able to Rule


the Table
Vietnamese players won six
bronze medals and one silver
at the ASEAN Table Tennis
Championships, which wrapped
up in Cambodia in November,
according to Vietnam News.
Senior players Tran Tuan
Quynh and Mai Hoang My
Trang placed third in the
mens and womens singles
events, respectively. Athletes
competing in the mixed
doubles and the womens
doubles events won four more
bronze medals, while earlier
the womens team won the
silver medal.

Odds Likely for Football


Bets: Official
Betting on international
football matches is likely to be
legalised in Vietnam, according
to a lawmaker of the National
Assembly.
Tran Quang Chieu, a
standing member of the
Committee for Finance and
Budget of the law-making
body, told Tuoi Tre in November
that the legalisation of such
betting should be done as soon
as possible.

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

Saigon Luta-Livre
W
Harry Hodge
headed to District
3 to check out Ho
Chi Minh Citys
first gym devoted
to Brazilian LutaLivre grappling.
Photos by Kyle
Phanroy

hen we arrived at
the doors of a fancy
coffee shop with
an outdoor pool,
we wondered if we were in the
right place.
A new gym with a rooftop fight
space was meant to be hosting
a Brazilian jiu-jitsu fight card
for its opening. But the parking
attendant could see what had
brought us there, and pointed up.
Once we got to the top of
the stairs, a crowd of martial
arts enthusiasts and students
of the Saigon Luta-Livre gym
were there, either in the cosy
clubhouse or warming up on the

mats. American founder Erik


Koehne took us through all the
twists and turns leading to the
opening of the first gym in the
city devoted to this particular
fight discipline.
I said this is the place, its an
oasis in District 3, Erik says of
the space down an alley of Ky
Dong.
The mat measures eight-bysix metres, and the clubhouse
is another six-by-four, so its
an economical use of space to
say the least, a far cry from the
warehouse-sized California
Fitness locations one can enter
across the city. Prior to the fight

card, it was interesting to watch


the fighters slipping in and out
of various holds in the warm up
before a grueling grappling match.
When the fights started, we had
to remind ourselves that this was
not a UFC-style bout; no kicks or
elbows thrown, just grappling
with a goal of forcing an opponent
to submit. Koehne reckons its this
mental aspect to Brazilian Ju-Jitsu
(BJJ) that attracts prospective
students to Luta-Livre. The LutaLivre style is also distinct from
traditional Brazilian jiu-jitsu, with
a no-gi (uniform-free) aspect.
Its like magic when you first
do it, says Erik, who has been

sharing his knowledge of BJJ


with students since 2010, and
decided during a visit in 2012
that he wanted to open a gym in
Ho Chi Minh City.
For every submission, theres
an escape that can lead to a
counter, Erik says. You dont
expect its going to give someone
as much strategy and power as
it does.
The Saigon Luta-Livre gym is
open daily, with a variety of options
for all levels of participant. The
gym is located at 20/11 Ky Dong,
Q3, Ho Chi Minh City. For more
information, visit saigonlutalivre.
weebly.com

Iron Man Comes to


Danang

Williams a Slam-Dunk as
Defensive MVP

According to its competition


website, the IRONMAN
triathlon series is coming to
Vietnam in May of next year.
VNG IRONMAN 70.3
Vietnam will offer 30 qualifying
slots for the 2015 IRONMAN
70.3 World Championship in
Zell am See-Kaprun, Austria.
Professional athletes will be
competing for a total prize
purse of US$15,000 (VND320
million). IRONMAN events
take place in settings around
the world.
Swim 2.4 miles, bike 112
miles, run 26.2 miles brag for
the rest of your life, says John
Collins, the co-founder of the
event, which dates back to 1978.
The event will offer athletes a
unique and unforgettable racing
experience. Danang is situated
along an immaculate 30km
stretch of white, sandy beach,
in a region surrounded by three
UNESCO World Heritage sites.
General registration for VNG
IRONMAN 70.3 Vietnam is
now open. Athlete inquiries
should be sent to secretariat@
ironman703vietnam.com

In a season of historic firsts


including the Saigon Heats debut
in the ASEAN Basketball League
playoffs Heat centre Justin
Williams has been named the 2014
ABL Defensive Player of the Year.
According to the teams website,
the recognition comes after he
helped Saigon make history by
advancing to the ABL Playoffs for
the first time ever. The 2.1-metretall center is a major defensive
force in the league, leading the ABL
in rebounds 17.5 per game
and in blocks 4.4 per game.
Williams best defensive
performance came on Oct. 22
against the Indonesia Warriors,
where he grabbed 30 rebounds
and blocked seven shots. Because
of Williams heroics, the Heat were
able to defeat the Warriors 75-73 in
overtime a win which punched
their ticket to the playoffs.
The Chicago native and former
cager for the NBAs Houston Rockets
also recorded the most blocks in a
game by any player this season on
Aug. 30, against Laskar Dreya South
Sumatra. In that game, Williams
posted a triple-double, with 18
points, 20 rebounds and 12 blocks.

To Play or Not to Play

Another One Gone from


V-League

A debate has begun over the


plan to send under-19 players
from the Hoang Anh Gia Lai
Arsenal JMG Academy, who are
semi-professional, to the 17th
ASEAN University Games this
month in Indonesia, according
to Tuoi Tre.
According to the Games
regulations, nine of the
Academys players are eligible
to compete in the student
tournament in Palembang
being held Dec. 9 to Dec. 19,
as current students of the Ho
Chi Minh City University of
Physical Education and Sports.
But the question is if
Vietnam even needs a win at
the event with those players,
who have been training with
one another since the age of 12
and were silver medalists at
the 2013 Southeast Asian U-19
Championship in Indonesia,
the 2014 U-22 Hassanal Bolkiah
Trophy in Brunei, and the 2014
AFF Nutifood U-19 Cup in Hanoi.
Observers fear the prospect
of injuries in such a competition
outweigh any benefit of
having the academy players
participate.

Vietnams top-flight V-League


will continue regardless of the
number of competing football
teams, Vietnam Football
Federation chairman Le Hung
Dung said in a recent interview
with Tuoi Tre.
Dung provided the
confirmation after Dong
Thap FC announced their
withdrawal from the league,
expected to start in January,
because of financial problems.
He noted that Vietnam
should also be prepared to turn
the V-League into an arena for
grassroots football, to make it
the basic foundation for future
development of the sport in the
worst-case scenario.
Apart from Dong Thap,
who won the First Division
last season and were promoted
to the V-League,
several other
clubs are mired
tes
pda r
u
in financial
s
r
d u you
difficulties,
Senabout group o@
y
r
g
as many
rtin har m
spo ent to nam.co
companies
v
e dviet
are reluctant
wor
to fund them.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 35

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

03

DEC. WEDNESDAY
FOOD FOR WEIGHT LOSS
Get a jump on the holiday
season weight gain with certified
health coach and yoga teacher
Chiara Squinzis Healthy Eating
Class Series Food for Weight
Loss. In this 75-minute talk on
Wednesday Dec. 3 youll learn
what food and eating habits to
choose in order to help your
body find its best shape and
optimal weight.
The Food for Weight Loss class
meets at 10am at Cyril and You
Sports Center, 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi,
Q2, HCMC. VND190,000 includes
the talk, calorie calculation and
a Q&A session. Email chiara@
laholista.com to RSVP

04

DEC. THURSDAY

06

DEC. SATURDAY

SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS
THE COSMOS AND THE SEA
Los Angeles-based artist
Christine Nguyen is bringing
her art-science lab to Galerie
Quynh on Thursday Dec.
4, and it should be a new
experience for Saigons art
goers. Combing drawing with
photographic techniques,
she plays with negatives,
opening dark corners to
dream-like speculation. In
this way she disseminates her
personal cosmology where

commonalities among species,


forms and environments
become visible and expressive.
The Cosmos and The Sea has
its opening at both the downtown
Galerie Quynh Level 2, 151/3
Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC and
the main gallery 65 De Tham,
Q1, HCMC from 6pm to 9pm
on Dec. 4. The show runs until
Jan. 17, 2015 at the downtown
venue, Jan. 10, 2015 at the main
location

36 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

If youre wondering when


Christmas starts in Ho Chi Minh
City, mark this date. The 2nd
edition of the Spirit of Christmas
fair is in town on Saturday Dec.
6 in the luxurious digs of Villa
Song, where there will be magic,
kids art workshops, a cooking
contest, fashion and a silent
auction taking place.
Food and refreshments will be
served not only to attendees,
but also to the orphanage
the fair benefits, Thien Binh
Orphanage.
With 100 percent of proceeds
going to the orphanage, the

organisers hope to best the


VND329 million they raised last
year, and add to the IT classes,
English programmes, improved
sleeping conditions and medical
support theyve already
contributed.
The 2nd Spirit of Christmas
fair takes place at Villa Song,
197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
HCMC, from 3pm to 7pm. Tickets
are VND400,000 for adults, free
for children or VND2.5 million
for a VIP magic show table for five
guests. For advance booking, contact
christmas2014shoppingfair@
villasong.com

06,13,20,27

07

DEC.

DEC. SUNDAY

SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTIES


Remember those raging New
World Hotel pool parties from
last year? Well, thats when
they were just getting started.
This December theyre back
every Saturday afternoon with
a full season at Splash, giving
their 500+ weekly revellers a
little bit of semi-wholesome
party time. Its good house

music in a non-club setting,


giving Saigon a weekly 12-hour
mini-festival.
Saigon Soul Pool Parties go
from 10am to 10pm, at the New
World Hotels Splash Bar 2F,
76 Le Lai, Q1, HCMC. Admission
is VND150,000 free for hotel
guests with VIP cabanas and
towel rentals available

HIP HOP WORKSHOP FOR CHILDREN


Hip-hop and breakdance tricks
will never be uncool. Learn top
rock, footwork and power-moves
from French B-Boy Yohan Ly at
Dancenter on Sunday Dec. 7.
Bring your best smile and a cando attitude, and hang out with
one of the best hip-hop dance

07-16

DEC.

INTERNATIONAL DANCE
FESTIVAL HCMC 2014
Get ready to dance your socks
off some more because the
International Dance Festival
is back for the second time
in Ho Chi Minh City. This
year, the event will include
choreographers and dancers
from Italy, France, Japan, Korea,

instructors going around. Fun for


the young and young at heart.
Dancenter is at 53 Nguyen
Dang Giai, Q2, HCMC, and
at dancentervn.com. Cost is
VND200,000 per person including
snack and juice. Register at info@
dancentervn.com before Dec. 5
Israel, Sweden, Vietnam and
The Philippines. The festival
will present three main shows
at the Opera House (Dec. 16)
and GEM (Dec. 12 and 13). As
part of the festival, a series of
open-to-public contemporary
dance workshops will be
organized from Dec. 7 through
Dec. 16 at various locations.
The IDF is organised by
Arabesque in collaboration with
the Saigon Concert and Dancenter.
For specific info on shows and
workshops, check idf-hcmc.org

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 37

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

PRIME MOVER

09

DEC. TUESDAY
UNICEF ZERO
150 business leaders will gather
at The Sheraton on Thursday
Dec. 9 to talk about Childrens
Rights and Business Principles,
as well as how we can reach
the target of Zero Zero
preventable child deaths, Zero
malnourished children and
Zero violence against children.
With support from UNICEF,
Save the Children, KOCHAM,
AUSCHAM and EUROCHAM,
this is a chance to put the
rights of children on your
organisations CSR agenda.
To RSVP and get your ticket in
the mail, contact Ms. Le Thi Thanh
Tam by Dec. 4, at ltttam@unicef.
org or on (08) 3821 9413. The event
runs from 3pm to 5pm at Level 23.
The Sheraton is at 88 Dong Khoi,
Q1, HCMC

Paul Tonkes
Founder of Heart Beat Saigon
heartbeatsaigon.com

Heart Beats Saigons underground body music house parties


get a venue change, to the newly opening Saigons Lookout (37bis
Ky Con, Q1, HCMC). But the beat remains the same

Show Im really excited


about

How is the scene going


in general?

I am excited about the twoyear Heart Beat anniversary


coming on Dec. 12. To meet
the very accomplished Martin
Eyerer... and even though
it will be a bit sad with our
farewell moment for Robert
DJ Cybersnack we will be
test-driving a new venue.

Getting better and better every


day. Even the EDM craze that
causes mainstream / DJ Mag
Top-10 DJs to pass through
Vietnam gives us the chance
to put our stuff in the same
spotlight. It is all new and
exciting, whatever you label it.

Best night out last


month
I enjoyed Pulse in The Cube
with Till Hennig on the
main floor and Chris, in his
Darkroom domain. After, we
had fun at Last Call, where
Vincent Valentin was playing
the perfect music for the
moment.

Thing I posted on Facebook that got the most


likes
An article on the e-joint made
in the Netherlands I shared on
my wall, triggered my friends
to comment and like, like I
have never seen before. Yes,
my friends...

I wish this DJ would


come to town
One wish will be fulfilled when
I can see Ben Klock tearing it
up in Saigon.

The best secret in town


is...
The secret is a venue! No-one
knows the name of it yet. But
very soon this will be one of
the hottest new spots in town.
We have the unique chance to
test-drive this venue. Even
before their soft opening we
will go in and give the sound
proofing a hard time and warm
up their new sound system. On
the night it will still have this
raw and unfinished bunker
look we feel so at home with.
Now I am revealing the name:
Saigons Lookout on 37bis Ky
Con, Q1, HCMC.

If my older-yet-still-cool
Mom came to town, I
would take her to...
She experienced our event at
Pogo Bar in Mui Ne. This was
in fact the after-party of my
wedding. Never seen my mom
dance so much.

38 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

11 DEC. THURSDAY
PIANO RECITAL WITH CELIMENE DAUDET
Having performing for years
as a soloist in France and
abroad Carnegie Hall,
Moscow philharmonic halls
the skillful pianist Celimene
Daudet is coming to Saigon
at the request of IDECAF on
Thursday Dec. 11. See her

give masterful turns on the


works of Chopin, Liszt,
Debussy and Franck in the
main concert hall.
Celimene Daudet comes to
IDECAF, 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1,
HCMC, at 8pm. Tickets are
VND160,000, half off for students

12 DEC. FRIDAY
JINGLE BELLS JOY RIDE
Cyclists, Santa outfits and
the spirit of Christmas
this has the potential to
become a classic. Already an
established monthly event
starting in District 2, the Joy
Ride gets festive on Friday
Dec. 12 in the name of good
cheer and as always, the joy
of cycling.
Leaving from The Bike
Shop at 7pm, riders are
encouraged to bring a bike
with lights, a helmet and
a good attitude. Prizes
will be awarded for best
costumes, (something
which we at Word wholeheartedly support) and the
approximately 15km gently
paced ride is an A to A,
meaning you end up exactly
where you started. Stay safe
out there Santas, and enjoy
the ride!
The Bike Shop is at 250
Nguyen Van Huong, Thao
Dien Q2, HCMC. Bike Rentals
are available on the day. Check
out the Bike Shop on facebook.
com/thebikeshopVN. The event
is family-friendly, though
for safety reasons, children
under the age of 12 are not
encouraged to participate

12 DEC. FRIDAY
Christmas markets are one of the
most season-appropriate things
there are for this time of year,
and Loreto knows were missing
them in sunny Saigon. So Friday
Dec. 12 will be a festive catch-all
with Christmas gifts for sale,
a raffle and auction, food and
drink, flashy decorations and a
nighttime concert with Thanh
Bui & The Soul Club as well as
other artists. All proceeds go

to disabled and disadvantaged


kids in Vietnam, like the 28,000
kids Loreto has already helped
in its 17 years operating in this
country.
The Christmas Market will be
entry by donation, 4pm to 9pm,
while the Christmas Soulful Music
show is ticketed, from 9.30pm to
11.30pm. For more info, contact
Trang Le at trangle@loretovietnam.
org or (08) 3910 6364

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

The Festive Season

Christmas at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon

Au Lac do Brazil
aulacdobrazil.com
All Dec. 24 and Dec. 25, Au Lac
do Brazil is keeping the holiday
buzz going with a welcome
drink of Swedish Glogg and
their Churrasco main course,
all for VND900,000++. Take in
your meat feast to the sounds
of live music, and get a sense
of what its like to celebrate the
holidays in Brazil.

Caravelle Hotel
caravellehotel.com
If you find yourself at Caravelle
this month, chances are
youre getting your festive
season done in style. Take
a traditional Christmas Tea
with a side of carols at Cafe
de lOpera from Dec. 15 to
Dec. 23 VND380,000++
per person. If that isnt your
thing, hold onto your Veuve
Clicquot flutes until Dec. 24
when the recently refurbished
Restaurant Nineteen starts
putting its kitchen through its
paces VND1,980,000++ for
the Christmas Eve Gala Buffet
(VND1,390,00++ for early
birds) or VND1,680,00++ on
Christmas Day. Sleep that off
until Dec. 31 and go again at the
New Years Eve Gala dinner
buffet VND2,380,000++ from
8pm (VND1,390,000++ for the

home-before-midnight set).
If you want to step it up
a notch, get to Reflections
fine dining venue and
enjoy Chef Darren Watsons
creations on Dec. 24
VND1,680,000++ and Dec.
31 VND1,980,000++. After
thats all said and done dont
forget to dance the final night
of the year away at the iconic
rooftop bar Saigon Saigon
where everyones invited for
VND1.4 million net including
one standard drink.

Hotel Equatorial
equatorial.com/hcm
This Christmas and New Years,
Hotel Equatorial is inviting you
to stay traditional with its Chit
Chat Restaurant or to mix it up
in its fine Asian resto, Orientica.
On Dec. 24, take your
pick of Christmas Eve buffet
dinners with a VND1.59
million++ fresh seafood and
carving station option at Chit
Chat, and a family feast of their
own at Orientica for VND1.38
million++. Brunch on Dec. 25
is VND940,000++ at Chit Chat
international delicacies style
VND50,000++ at Orientica
dim sum style.
And if you havent had
enough grilled seafood, USDA
prime beef and cheese boards

40 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

by New Years Eve, check out


Chit Chats Dec. 31 dinner for
VND1.49 million++ before
making your way down to
the pool, where there will be
DJs and live music going past
midnight and a VND1.69
million++ buffet for those who
come before midnight. Free
flows of house wine, beer,
sparkling wine and soft drinks
are standard.

Intercontinental Asiana
Saigon
icasianasaigon.com
The Intercon is a by-word for
classy soirees in Saigon, so
with three dining venues to
choose from, theres no shortage
of opportunity to pop a few
buttons this Christmas.
Start things off on Dec. 24 at
Market 39 by indulging in a
Gourmet Christmas Buffet Dinner
VND1,998,000++ per person.
Follow that up on Dec. 25 with
the appropriately titled Lavish
Brunch VND2,100,000++.
If your not in a food coma by
then, try the Dec. 25 Buffet
Dinner for VND1,090,000++. All
inclusive of a free flow of house
wine, selected cocktails, soft
drinks and Tiger beer.
For a change of pace on
Dec. 31 check out Yu Chus
East Meets West Buffet Dinner

VND1,888,000++ which
includes entry into Purple
Jades countdown party
VND380,000 for those showing
up just for that. Add an extra
VND199,000++ and youve got
yourself a free flow of Vueve
Clicquot all night.
If Italian is more your flavour,
Basilico has two set dinners
on Dec. 25 and Dec.31
VND1,488.000++ each, inclusive
of free flow Prosecco and all
the good cheer of the season. If
this all sounds great but youd
rather just bliss out at home,
Intercons Turkey Take Away is
still on, with VND3,250,000++
getting you a huge bird with
all the trimmings delivered
directly to your door.

Mvenpick Hotel Saigon


moevenpick-saigon.com
If youre picking the Mvenpick
this holiday season, Caf
Saigon has the bases covered
all week long. On Dec. 24
and Dec. 25, dinner rates are
VND1,399,000++ per person,
while lunch on Dec. 25 is only
VND599,000++. All feature
the standard free flows of
wine, beer and soft drinks.
Dinner on Dec. 31 steps up the
standard free flow to include
champagne and weighs in at
VND1,499,000++.

12-14

DEC.

VIGHT LIGHTING FACTORY SALE


After a successful lighting sale in
July, Vight Lighting Company
which distributes to several wellknown European luxury resellers
is running out another big
factory sale at The Vista. The
lamps are manufactured to high
standards, mixing the best of
Vietnamese craft with original
designs (pink owl lamps!). This
is your one chance to get them

13&14

in their country of production,


as they are usually exported
to major retailers across the
globe such as Marks & Spencer,
Habitat, Alinea and Pier1.
Vight Lightings Factory Sale
is at The Vista Apartments, 628c
Giang Van Minh, Q2, HCMC, from
10am to 5pm through the weekend.
For a browse of the lamps, check the
company profile at vight.com

DEC.

3A STATION BAZAAR GETS A HAPPY AT XMAS


3A Station Bazaar is a new
player in the expanding Saigon
weekend market scene. Their
vendors focus is on locally
sourced and handmade
products, giving smart shoppers
the chance to get something of
high quality at a price they can
afford.
Usually occurring on the first
and third weekend of every
month, 3A have thrown out the
rule book for Xmas and will be
setting up shop on Dec. 13 and
Dec. 14 at their usual location.
As always, part of the funds

raised will go to support


childrens charities Loreto
Vietnam-Australia and the
SCC. Look out for a host of free
activities including gifts for the
kiddies and TWO 60 minute
Happy Time Sales where
all stock goes on 10 percent
discount between 11am and
noon, and 4.30pm and 5.30pm.
3A Station Bazaar will be held
at 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 HCMC
between 9am and 8pm. For more
information visit facebook.com/
pages/3A-Station-Bazaar/ or call
0902 373403

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 41

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

Dance Parties
SATURDAY 6th
Electric Kicks
Saigon Ranger is the new
kid on the block, effortlessly
cool but unproven. Electric
Kicks is the sleazy, indie-styled
discopunk whos gonna show
them the electro ropes. Wed
say give them their privacy but
Crazy Monkey is doing visuals,
Superkid, El Capitan and Mike
Pham are DJing, and it sounds
too cool a scene to be prudish
about.
Electric Kicks is at Saigon
Ranger, 5/7 Nguyen Sieu,

all the way from Germany to


give Heart Beat its most famous
guest so far. Supporting will
be B.A.X, Darkroom-specialist
Chris Wolter and the dear,
soon departing DJ Cybersnack
whos been a consistent
presence at Heart Beat since it
was a thing.
Providing the backdrop will
be yet another new venue,
Saigons Lookout, which is set
to be quite the book-click-boom
hotspot when it opens later in
the month.
The Heart Beat Two-Year
Anniversary is at Saigons Lookout
37bis Ky Con, Q1, HCMC
VND100,000 entry, VND50,000
for students

Q1, HCMC VND50,000 /


VND30,000 for students

FRIDAY 12th
Heart Beat Two-Year
Anniversary
Heart Beat has been bringing
the underground body music
to Saigon for two years now,
flying in international guest DJs,
dropping techno bombs on their
imprint and generally getting
people moving. This celebration
looks to be one of their most
ambitious yet, with headliner
Martin Eyerer making the trip

The Month in The Observatory


With a move last month to District 4, The Observatory is throwing off the chains of downtown
respectability for one of its biggest months ever. All parties take place at the new late night hub of
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, starting around 10pm
FRIDAY 5th

John Morales

Adrian Giordano
Nu-disco pioneer and veteran
producer, party-provider and
DJ, Adrian Giordano will bring
his two decades of experience to
a night that's going to burst with
funky electronic energy.

SATURDAY 6th
Groove Control
Anniversary
Get your groove on big time as
DJs Starchild, Joey T and Dan Lo
are joined by live act Dat Phonk
for a night of pure, solid, footmoving sounds.

SATURDAY 13th
Trusme
His third visit to the city and
the first to The Observatory.
Label boss, producer and DJ
Trusme has played in the
most underground clubs and
festivals on the planet, honing
his signature touch of disco and
techno for one of Saigons best
nights of the month.

FRIDAY 19th
John Morales and Alton
Miller
Detroit veteran Alton Miller is

returning to The Observatory


with legendary New York disco
producer John Morales. These
two individuals are pioneers
of dance culture, and their
combined energy is going to
make for a night that is nothing

42 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

short of epic.

SATURDAY 20th
La Royale
A key agent of the vibrant
and emerging electronic

scene in Mexico, and owner


of the Electrique Music label,
La Royales productions are
unique forays into the heavy
possibilities of disco, and you
can expect his set on this night
to do the same.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 43

just in

Ho Chi Minh City

EXOTISSIMO DROPS THE TISSIMO, BECOMES EXO TRAVEL COULEURS DASIE OPENS ITS DOORS
Last month marked the launch
of the new-look EXO Travel
brand. Designed not only to
incorporate EXOs pioneering
and professional values, but
also to inspire a connection
between our incredible
customers and suppliers, its
been business as usual for the
two-decade-old travel company.
With offices all over Asia, the
EXO experience wont change,
only the name will from now
on reflect their immersion in the

places in which they operate,


as well as their reputation
in providing travellers with
the best possible experience
wherever they go even if they
say so themselves.
To watch a video explaining the
new brand, check out their new
website at exotravel.com. Theyre
also keen to let you know that any
communications sent through the
old Exotissimo site will continue to
reach their intended destination
until they tell you otherwise

Seven years after falling in love


with Vietnam, consumated by his
2011 relocation to Hoi An, in 2012
French photographer Rehahn
released his first photography
book, Vietnam Mosaic of
Contrasts. Featuring portraits that
capture the soul of his subjects,
most of the photos were taken in
the remote provinces of Ha Giang,
Cao Bang and Lao Cai.
His work, along with that
of two other photographers
Manny Librodo (Phillipines) and

Rarindra Prakarsa (Indonesia)


is now celebrated at new gallery
in Hoi An, Couleurs dAsie.
In the gallery, Rehahn displays
some of his best work including
some limited editions certified
by the photographer himself.
Previously located at Enjoy
Resturaunt, the new gallery is
a chance to move on to bigger
things and a bigger space.
Couleurs dAsie is at 7 Nguyen
Hue, Hoi An. For more information
email rehahn.hoian@gmail.com

CARAVELLE GETS A
MAKEOVER
Just in time for Christmas,
Caravelle has given itself a
gift with a refreshed lobby
and reception, and a renewed
design on Restaurant
Nineteen. This is just the start
of its most significant overhaul
in 15 years, which will also take
on the Cafe de lOpera and
Champagne Corner before its
completion in mid-2016.
To check out Restaurant
Nineteens new, even cosier
iteration, head to the Caravelle
at 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1,
HCMC

LAZADA OVERCOMES
LANGUAGE BARRIER
With 80,000 expats now residing
in Vietnam, Lazada have decided
that its a slice of the market
they could no longer afford
to ignore. Thats the simple
wisdom behind the leading
e-commerce players decision to
go bilingual. Simply click on the
Union Jack tab at the top of your
screen and voila! a world of
buying opportunity is now open
to you in a language you can
understand.
Alexandre Dardy, CEO of
Lazada Vietnam, had this to
say: After nearly three years
in Vietnam, we came to the
conclusion that the 80,000
plus foreigners that live here
still faced huge difficulties in
negotiating the language barrier
for both online and offline retail.
Therefore, it was a priority for
us to offer a convenient and
accessible platform for shopping
to all consumers regardless of
nationality. See, we told you so.
To check out Lazadas massive
catalogue, holiday discounts and
plans for world domination go
lazada.vn and shop online to your
hearts content

NIGHTLIFE AT NINH CHU BAY


As the Central Coast beach
vacation spot has grown, so have
the number of kite surfers and
travellers looking for a cool place
to wind down the day. Located
just outside Phan Rang, Ninh
Chu Bay Beach Club & Bar is
positioning itself as that place,
with craft cocktails, a propriety

44 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

vodka brand and PR statements


invoking the legendary Nha
Trang Sailing Club. With 400
metres of private beach, it
certainly has room to grow.
Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club &
Bar is at Thon Khanh Tuong (Hwy
702), Ninh Chu, Thuan Hai, and
facebook.com/ninhchubaybeachclub

FUNNY NAME, SERIOUS


VALUE
Billed as a place you can get
everything you want and
nothing you need, the guys
at KEPI have you covered
when it comes to things like
astronaut ice cream, edible
skeletons and the worlds
largest wine glasses. On top
of that they also have a huge
range of classic games, toys,
decorations, candles and gifts
right in time for Chrimbo!
Sourced locally and from all
over the world, KEPI is one of
those places that specialises
in hard-to-find fun from
VND20,000 and up.
KEPI will open Monday to
Saturday, from 10am to 5pm,
Dec. 1 through to Dec. 20 at 92
Nguyen Huu Canh, Saigon Pearl
Villa 10-12, Street D8, Binh
Thanh, HCMC. Check out their
wares at facebook.com/Kepivn.
A permanent location will open
early next year

We are proud to be the FIRST and ONLY authorised


International Clinic to obtain the LICENSE to conduct

WORK PERMIT HEALTH CHECK in HCMC

International SOS Clinics in Vietnam

For all your healthcare needs, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year

HANOI: 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Dist. Tel: +84 4 3934 0666


HCMC: 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist. 3. Tel: +84 8 3829 8520
wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 45

just in

Ho Chi Minh City


BROOKS BROTHERS FALL/WINTER COLLECTION
195 years in, and Brooks
Brothers is still styling, now
with a new Fall/Winter
collection. And though
theres a timeless elegance
at play, there are also sports

shirts, fairisle sweaters and


skirts, and lots and lots of
houndstooth.
For more info on Brooks
Brothers newest, check facebook.
com/BrooksBrothersVietnam

THE OBSERVATORY
MOVES TO DISTRICT 4

CMI-HEART INSTITUTE
CHARITY GALA RAISES
OVER VND2.5 BILLION
Leveraging the work of
Professor Alain Carpentier
a French pioneer in
providing heart surgery to
underprivileged children in
Vietnam CMI has once
again proven how far a little
bit of magic and a lot of
goodwill can go. With the
show-stopping moment being a
wallet-splitting US$40,000 live
auction bid for a 7-day trip to
the Komodo Islands, the Monte
Carlo-themed charity event did
just what it set out to do.
Smashing last years
VND1.98 billion take-home
record, the luxurious gala at
the Park Hyatt Hotel in Ho Chi
Minh was the very model in
how to raise money for a good
cause; invite the well-heeled
and well-intentioned, put them
in a beautiful room, entertain
them with magic and music,
ply them with great food and
drink, add some sex appeal in
the form of the Urban Dance
Group performers, and ask
them to give generously.
Congratulations to all
involved in supporting such a
worthy cause. A silent auction
featured magazines handled
by royalty, artwork donated
by dignitaries and the coolest
pair of bespoke leather brogues
weve ever seen. And while
VND2.5 billion is indeed
an impressive figure, the
most important one is the 60
Vietnamese children whose
lives will now be saved because
they can get the heart surgery
they need. Merci beaucoup CMI
keep up the great work and
see you next year!
If you missed the gala, you
can still donate to CMI at cmivietnam.com

PARK HYATT RETOOLS


Its been in the air for a while.
Park Hyatt has had plans to
upgrade whats already one of
Ho Chi Minh Citys premiere
addresses since September
of last year, and its finally
scheduled. Starting Mar. 3,
2015, the hotel will close for
13 weeks to accommodate the
bulk of the improvements,
reopening in early June. While

work will continue through


November, youll already
notice the improvements
crystal chandeliers, silver leaf
white-paneled walls, lush
gardens, artisanal furniture
pieces and other traditional
comforts combined with the
contemporary.
For more info, go to
parkhyattsaigon.com

Known for its late night parties


and focus on international artists,
The Observatory has moved
location from its previous position
in District 1 to a bigger space in
District 4, near the Elisa Boat and
the next port space down from
Cargo Bar/Q4. Complete with
a new balcony overlooking the
Saigon River and an even larger
sound system (and a location
where they can actually turn on
the subwoofer), this feels like a big
move towards The Observatorys
intended destination, becoming
a key node in the Asian
underground music circuit.
The Observatorys new location is
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc

ELEVATE INNOVATION
The British Council are
dangling a carrot worth S$50,000
at cultural innovators with a
passion for early childhood
education. The ELEVATE
StartWell Challenge is a brand
new programme developed
in partnership with the Lien
Foundation in Singapore, that
asks applicants to present new
concepts to improve the element
of play in early childhood,
reimagine urban spaces and
playgrounds, and the way young
people interact with space. If
this sounds like your thing, you
could end up at a residential
innovation camp in Japan in
February 2015 and be in the

running for a share of the cash.


Play is how children
navigate experiences, cultivate
curiosity and creativity, and
most importantly, learn,
says Lee Poh Wah, the Lien
Foundations Chief Executive
Officer. Australia, China, Japan,
Malaysia, Taiwan, South Korea
and the UK are among the other
participating nations.
Applications are on now until
Jan. 5, and are open to anyone
who uses creativity in their work
and life, including (but not limited
to) artists, designers, performers,
digital technologists, and
architects. To find out more about
ELEVATE, visit britishcouncil.vn

It was time for a move from one


of Ho Chi Minh Citys most iconic
buildings the brilliant white
modernist fountain pen-laden
District 1 location that served as
a backdrop for our September
fashion story, Futura. But Gaya isnt
mourning, instead theyre using
their new Thao Dien location for all
its worth, with a more natural set
up for their furniture, a champagne
bar and a nice pool patio to look
lazily at between sips.
Check out the new Gaya digs at 3
Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC

PENDOLASCO
REFURBISHES

space with sofas and a new wine


cellar. Work will also be done on
the garden area, with new tiling
replacing the terracotta tiles that
have long been the signature of
this eatery.
As part of the refurbishment,
the menu will also be upgraded.
While continuing to focus on
classic Italian fare, a new more
contemporary specials menu will
be added, with dishes changing

every two weeks.


Pendolasco is at 87 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

The longest running Italian


restaurant in Saigon is closing
down until Dec. 17 for a long
scheduled refurbishment.
Taking advantage of the road
closure of Nguyen Hue, on which
the restaurant is located, the bar
area will be extended by 9 metres
while the restaurant will be
turned into a no-smoking dining

46 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

GAYA MOVES TO DISTRICT 2

LIT LOUNGE
Ngo Van Nams newest bar
should make the District
1 corridor even more of a
destination. A couple doors
down from The Orient, LIT
Lounge has a cool, decadent,
after-hours vibe, which will
spread over two DJ-manned

PUB CRAWL BOARD GAME


floors into the wee hours. It
opens in mid-December after a
month of soft opening reps, and
we have high hopes for the Long
Island Iced Teas.
LIT Lounge is at 16B Ngo Van
Nam, Q1, HCMC, and facebook.
com/LITLoungeSaigon

VERY NGONS NEW OFFERINGS


Just in time for the holidays,
Very Ngon Homewares has
struck inspiration in the most
unlikely of places San
Francisco. We were exploring
San Francisco by foot and
wandered past a shopfront
featuring a simple yet striking
paper cut out of the streets of
a local district, says co-owner
Lise Nguyen-Owen. The idea
of hand-quilting grew from
there.
From that passing impression,
the idea for elegant quilted
bed covers of modern street

maps of central Saigon, An Phu


and Hanoi was sown. Unlike
Very Ngons classic Indochineinspired homewares featuring
images of early 1900s Vietnam,
the bed covers are unprinted,
relying on the beauty and
simplicity of the quilted lines,
which represent the streets and
boulevards of the cityscapes
featured. And perfect for
making your house a home.
Very Ngon Homewares can be
found at Decosy, 112 Xuan Thuy,
Q2. For a sneak peek go to facebook.
com/VeryNgonHomewares

So staring into half-full pints is


getting boring? Well the makers
of the Saigon Pub Crawl board
game have a different idea for
you. Its a drinking game, but
get this its fun enough to
play sober! But you probably
wont.
Land on one of the card spaces
and take on a silly foreign accent
for the rest of the game. Draw
the Dude Looks Like a Lady! card
and tram-phan-tram your way to
public drunkenness, or sashay
your way across the room

shouting, Im a ladyboy!
With VND600,000 in drink
vouchers for the bars on the
board including popular
spots like Spotted Cow, BMV,
Phattys Boomarang, Game On,
Blanchys Tash and more the
game makers have made real-life
pub crawls easier as well.
The game can be played at any
of the featured pubs, or by emailing
saigonboardgames@gmail.com.
For more info, go to facebook.com/
pages/Saigon-Pub-Crawl-BoardGame/1551966475018601

DOGMA GALLERY AT WAR REMNANTS


The Dogma Collection, the
most skillfully curated set
of propaganda artworks in
Vietnam, has been invited to
showcase selected works in a
new gallery at the War Remnants
Museum. With an emphasis on

the history behind the art, the


Dogma gallery goes beyond Bui
Vien clichs and adds a new
dimension to the story told.
The Dogma Gallery is at the War
Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan,
Q3, HCMC

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 47

overscene ho chi minh

27grill

Photos by Glen Riley


The restaurant above Chill Skybar put
on an exclusive beef-tasting event, with
prime cuts of Robbins Island Wagyu
Beef from Tasmania.

What the F**k?

Photos by Glen Riley


The only professional comedy night
in the city got the Cargo Bar crowd
involved with a cheeky monkey, some
top-classed magic and lots of highpitched cussing

48 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

stella artois

Photos provided by Stella Artois


You only get promo girls this classy
if your beer has been brewed for 650
years. Bottled Stella launches in Saigon.
The draft version should be here next
year.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think


would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

CMI Charity Gala

Photos by Francis Xavier


While attendees got to dress up like
James Bond, 60 children elsewhere got
a second chance at life from the funds
raised

Q2 Gaya Opening

Photos by Kyle Phanroy


Although well miss their iconic former
location, some champagne and a fun
night got us feeling more comfortable
with the move

Swedish Lunch Beat


Photos by Kyle Phanroy
During a week in which the Swedes
brought out every cultural trick they
have, a lunchtime jam session was a
highlight

to do list

hanoi

05

DEC. FRIDAY
SOUL DEEP SESSIONS
One of the founding fathers of
house, Alton Miller, returns to
Vietnam for a magical night of
deep record digging, soulful
loving and explosive dancing.
Miller has been entwined
with the scenes and sounds
of Detroit and Chicago for
two decades. Inspired by his
house heroes DJ Ron Hardy,
Frankie Knuckles, Larry Levan
and Timmy Regisford, Alton

05-08

DEC.

ART FOR YOU


Manzi and Work Room Four
have teamed up to put on an
art fair at Manzi Art Space
from Dec. 5 to Dec. 8.
With the intention offering
a space where people can buy
affordable art, on sale will
be a collection of sketches,
photographs, illustrations
and paintings. All works
are created with a range of
ideas in mind, and come in
different mediums, offering
up questions and responses
by some of the finest creative

talents in Vietnam today.


A great way to support
your local artists and keep
creativity kicking in the
capital, the art fair at Manzi
comes just in time for you to
stock up on Christmas gifts.
As the organisers exclaim,
Buy it. Hang it. Cherish and
share it.
Manzis Art Space is located
at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Hanoi. The art fair will run from
10am to 7pm from Friday Dec. 5
to Monday Dec. 8

50 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

05-28

opened a club in the 1980s with


his friend Chez Damier called
the Detroit Music Institute,
which went on to become an
epicentre for the underground
house movement in Detroi.
This is a chance to see one of
the true gurus of house an
event not to be missed.
Doors are at 8pm. Entrance
TBA. CAMA ATK is located at 73
Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

DEC.

HANOI ART MARKET


Inspired by the Vietnamese
traditional market and learning
the art market concept from
other countries, a group of
young Hanoian artists have
come together to create the
Hanoi Art Market for the first
ever time in Vietnam.
Designed to be a forum
where art lovers can meet
and talk directly with artists,
and understand more about
them, their works and direct
ownership of the artwork, the
work of 59 artists will be on

sale at Hang Da Galleria in


the Old Quarter from Dec. 5 to
Dec. 28. Coming in a variety
of mediums painting,
statues, installations, art craft
products and more the art
market is the work of Nguyen
Hong Phuong and Tran Dan.
It has also been put together in
cooperation with Cuci Fine Art.
For more information please
contact Vo Quynh Hoa on 0903
745657 or email cucifineart@
gmail.com. Hang Da Galleria is on
the intersection of Hang Da and
Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

05,06,12,13

DEC.

JAMES AND THE GIANT PEACH


The Hanoi International Theatre
Society (HITS) is performing
a theatre adaptation of the
Roald Dahl novel, James and the
Giant Peach, throughout early
December.
With six shows scheduled to
take place at Nha Hat Theatre
(1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
behind the Opera House), this is
an all-ages show that should be
perfect for adults and kids alike.
Tickets cost VND200,000

06

(adults) and VND150,000


(kids) and are available at The
Republic, Kitchen, Hanoi Social
Club and Puku. Performances
are at the following times:
Friday, Dec. 5 7.30pm
Saturday, Dec. 6 3pm and
7.30pm
Friday, Dec. 12 7.30pm
Saturday, Dec. 13 3pm and
7.30pm
For more information go to
hitshanoi.com

Once reserved exclusively for royalty,


tranquil Westlake now boasts
Hanois Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Minutes from the city with unobstructed
lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
you the award-winning service even
ancient kings would envy.

DEC. SATURDAY

THE TAY HO FLEA MARKET


Think the famous flea market
at Pariss St. Ouen, or the
likes of Brick Lane in London.
While the eighth installment
of Tay Ho Flea Market doesnt
have the history or the scale to
compete with its compatriots
overseas, its return to West
Lake on Saturday Dec. 6 offers
a great chance to pick up a
range of secondhand goods.
Selling everything from
used clothes, household items
and ornamental furniture to
decorations, the market will
run from 9am to 5.30pm.
The Tay Ho Flea Market is held
outside Quang Ba Temple, Lane
67, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi.

THE FRASER COLLECTION


BAHRAIN BANGALORE BANGKOK BEIJING BUDAPEST
CHENGDU DOHA DUBAI EDINBURGH GLASGOW
GUANGZHOU GURGAON HANOI HO CHI MINH CITY
HONG KONG ISTANBUL JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR
LONDON MANILA MELBOURNE NANJING NEW DELHI
OSAKA PARIS PERTH SEOUL SHANGHAI
SHENZHEN SINGAPORE SUZHOU SYDNEY TIANJIN
WUHAN WUXI CHENNAI (2014) AL KHOBAR (2015)
FRANKFURT (2015) RIYADH (2014)

For information email info@


weekendmarket.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 51

to do list

07

hanoi

DEC. SUNDAY

HANOI SECRET SALE


A number of designers in
Vietnam have put their minds
and wares together to put on
a festive Christmas sale on
Sunday Dec. 7 at Chula.
Selling the products
of Valerie Cordier, Dame
Clemence, Soa Va Soa, Chula
and Chez M'Lain, a range of

wares will be available from


fashion garments through
to massage oils, cashmere
bedding and a range of shawls,
sweaters, blankets and throws,
all at mark-down prices. Say
the organisers, Everyone
deserves a little luxury.
Hanoi Secret Sale is on Sunday
Dec. 7 from 11am to 5pm at
Chula, 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho,
Hanoi

07,14,21,28

DEC.

SPANISH MOVIES EVERY


SUNDAY
La Bicicleta, the self-styled
Barcelona Bistro formerly
known as THBC, continues
its season of original Spanish
movies every Sunday night
throughout December.
The schedule for this month
is as follows:
Sunday Dec. 7 El Aura
Sunday Dec. 14 Fragiles
Sunday Dec. 21 Roma
Sunday Dec. 28 Alatriste
All movies start at 7.30pm and
are shown with English subtitles.
Entrance is free. La Bicicleta is at
44 Lane 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Hanoi

11,12,13

CAMA ATK TURNS THREE


Kicking off CAMA ATKs threeday-long 3rd birthday weekend,
the venue and music promoters
are bringing in the Mumbaibased experimental music of
Pinnochios Moment of Clarity
live experimental music on
Thursday Dec. 11.
Supported by local live acts,
the extravaganza will continue

DEC.

on Friday Dec. 12 with Florida


act Tonstartssbandht. The work
of Andy and Edwin White, to
quote a diehard fan, Andy
and Edwin White sent the bitch
up. Edwins percussive assault,
Andys tectonic riffs on his
Danelectro, and their telepathic
sibling jam instincts turned the
packed room into a shaking jello
mold of sweaty flesh.

52 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

The extravaganza comes to a


finale on the following day with
the arrival of hip-hop DJ, Jon
Kennedy.
Emerging out the 1990s
heyday of hip-hop heyday,
originally a drummer, Jon
Kennedy is one of those DJs
with an innate understanding
of rhythm. With a bag full of
golden beats, expect him to

rip up the dance floor to make


way for the sounds of some rad
hip-hop.
First discovered by the
infamous Mr. Scruff back in
2000, Jon has been producing,
remixing, scratching and DJing
ever since.
Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA.
CAMA ATK is located at 73 Mai
Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

Why are children more affected by air pollution?


Infants and childrens lung and respiratory system are still developing
They have faster breathing rate and inhale more pollutants per body weight compared to adults
Their nose do not filter as much particulates as they tend to breath through their mouths more

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 53

to do list

12-30

hanoi

DEC.

SEEDS
Kilomet109 is hosting another
exciting runway show and textile
installation to mark the launch
of its new Sustainable Line
collection on Friday Dec. 12 at
Manzi Art Space. The installation
will be shown at Manzi until
Dec. 30.

13&14

Showcasing chic mens


and womens urban clothing,
every piece is original made
by hand from all-natural
ingredients. Kilomet 109 uses
weaving, dying, and printing
techniques adapted from the
Nung, Thai, and Hmong ethnic
groups in northern Vietnam.
The brand supports those
communities in maintaining
their age-old textile traditions.
The textile exhibition is
designed to bring guests closer
to Kilomet 109s production
process from concept to
runway. Founder and designer
Vu Thao will reveal the
relationship between the ecofriendly material that goes into
her fabrics and dyes, and the
modern fashion Kilomet 109
crafts for its.
Manzi Art space is at 14 Phan
Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The
fashion show kicks off at 8pm on
Friday Dec. 12, while the showcase
continues until Dec. 30. To get an
invitation for the fashion show,
email manzihanoi@gmail.com

NOV.

THE CHAU LONG SPIRIT


OF XMAS
Hanoi Cooking Centre and
Bookworm are teaming up for
a little Christmas shindig from
2pm to 4pm on both Saturday
Dec. 13 and Sunday Dec. 14.
With live music and

carols, free mulled wine and


gingerbread, free balloons and to
he figures for children, HCC will
be putting on some Christmas
treats will Bookworm will be
discounting everything in their
shop.
Bookworm and HCC are at 44
Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

14

DEC. SUNDAY

THE MARRIAGE OF
FIGARO
Screened opera continues
its renaissance this month in
the capital with the showing
of Mozarts Marriage of
Figaro on Dec. 14 at Hanoi
Cinematheque (22A Hai Ba
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi).
A four-part comic opera
that first premiered in Vienna

54 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

in 1786, The Marriage of Figaro


recounts a day of madness in
the palace of Count Almaviva
near Seville in Spain. A story
of conspiracy, revenge and
non-stop scheming, through
clever manipulations the opera
finishes with the restoration
of the Counts love for his
countess.
For more information email
info@hanoioperaguild.com

15

DEC. MONDAY

THE STIRRING OF A
THOUSAND BELLS
Moon Gramophone presents the
official Vietnam premiere of The
Stirring of a Thousand Bells (Matt
Dunning, 2014) on Monday Dec.
15 at Manzi Art Space.
A fascinating, two-part
'unconventional' documentary
that introduces viewers to
Indonesia's ancient Javanese
gamelan culture, in doing so,
it examines the relevance and
reverence of this tradition in the
modern world.
Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan
Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Doors
are at 8pm. Entry is by donation on
the door

20

DEC. SATURDAY

JOHN MORALES
John Morales, straight out of the
Bronx USA and one of the pioneers of
the disco mix comes to CAMA ATK
on Dec. 20.
Starting his trade in 1975 spinning
records to the US troops, John found
his true calling in taking short disco
hits and making them epic. A hugely
in demand DJ and a pioneer of his
craft, if you are into disco then you
are into him
Entry is VND80,000 in advance or
VND120,000 on the door. Doors open at
8pm. CAMA ATK is located at 73 Mai
Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 55

just in

hanoi

POSITIVE (CRITICAL) MASS KEEPS


GROWING
DIRECT FLIGHTS TO INDIA
Following recent visits to Vietnam by
dignitaries from India, Indias Jet Airways
has officially opened direct flights
connecting New Delhi and Mumbai to Ho
Chi Minh City via Bangkok. They are also
expanding their codeshare flights to Hanoi.
According to the Indian Embassy to
Vietnam, the launch of direct flights will

contribute to promoting cooperation


between Vietnam and India in various
fields, especially in tourism. Vietnam
Airlines and Vietjet Air are also shortly
expected to commence direct flight services
to India.
For more information on Jet Airways Vietnam
flights go to jetairways.com/EN/VN/Home.aspx

Not content with taking place on the last


Friday of the month in four cities around
Vietnam, Positive Mass has now added a
fifth city to its cycling roster, with the first
cycle ride around Thanh Hoa taking place at
the end of November.
The final jaunt of 2014 will hit the streets
of Hanoi, Thai Nguyen, Son La, Thanh Hoa
and Ho Chi Minh City at 8pm on Friday Dec.
26, perfect for cyclists who like to travel en
masse and reclaim the streets of the big city.
Positive Mass meeting points are at the
following locations:
Hanoi: St Josephs Cathedral
HCMC: Cultural Labour Centre
Thai Nguyen: City Museum
Son La: Viettel Building Yard
Thanh Hoa: Hong Bang University

EXOTISSIMO BECOMES EXO

ZEN HOUSE
Well-known spa outlet Zen Spa has added a
new location to its portfolio, Zen House.
Located inside a 1,000-year-old village by
the Red River and next to Ba Gia Pagoda,
the peace and quiet of the new location offer
a perfect way to escape and get yourself
pampered.
As well as the standard range of holistic

UMA EXPANDS
Furniture producers, UMA Vietnam, are
continuing their meteoric expansion to
the north with the opening of two new
showrooms.
The closest Vietnam has to IKEA or
maybe we should say, IKEA is the closest
the world has to UMA UMA not only
sells furniture, interior decoration and
accessories for all your homely needs, but
is also running a number of promotions
with the arrival of its new stores.
The two new UMAs are at 84 Quan
Thanh, Ba Dinh and 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da.
For more information or to see their online
catalogue, click on uma.vn. To take advantage
of the promotions, head directly to the two
new stores

56 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

and beauty therapies that Zen has become so


well-known for, Zen House is offering half
and full-day spa treatment packages which
come complete with meals. All within a
20-minute drive of Hanois Old Quarter.
Zen House is on alley 209 (near Ba Gia Pagoda)
An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3719
9889. For more information click on zenspa.vn

Well-known travel specialists, Exotissimo


Travel, have rebranded, cutting off all that
issimo in their name and using the new
moniker, Exo Travel.
Yet, for anyone who is worried, dont
be. The new-look company will provide
the same, professional travel services
that theyre so well known for. And
theyre trading at the same addresses,
too, although for online communications
youll have to change
@exotissimo.com for @exotravel.com.
For further information go to exotravel.com
or pop into 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi

A HANOI COOKING CENTRE CHRISTMAS


Entering into the Christmas spirit Hanoi
Cooking Centre will be running their delivery
service of Christmas treats right up until
midday on Christmas Eve. This includes all
the classical festive fare from mince pies and

Christmas puddings to plum sauce, gingerbread


trees and white bean and apple dip.
Hanoi Cooking Centre is at 44 Chau Long,
Ba Dinh, Hanoi. To book your deliveries call
(08) 3715 0088

ART VIETNAM GALLERY

VERY NGON HOMEWARES


Specialising in creating unique, lasting
mementos of time spent in Vietnam, for the
Christmas season Very Ngon Homewares
has launched a number of new products.
With a new, elegant quilted bed cover
based on modern street maps of central
Saigon, An Phu and Hanoi, also added to
the collection is a range of stylish handbags
with retro-style cane handles. The tea
towels, which have long been part of the

range, now come designed with a selection


of new images and streetscapes, while there
is also a new cushion cover design featuring
a wealthy woman in a pousse-pousse, the
predecessor of modern-day cyclos which
were used around Asia and parts of Africa.
Very Ngons products can be found at
Tan My Design, 61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi. Alternatively, click on facebook.com/
VeryNgonHomewares

After a quiet but vibrant three years in


more somber surroundings, Art Vietnam
Gallery has returned its operations to the
Old Quarter, with new premises just down
the street from St. Josephs Cathedral at 24 Ly
Quoc Su.
Set in the same building that houses the
Nha Son Collective, the Ly Quoc Su Art Caf
and Barbetta, the new location has brought
together the four businesses in attempt to
build the arts in Vietnam with art talks,
exhibitions, music performances and video
installations.
For more information go to
artvietnamgallery.com

TADIOTO LAUNCHES NEW FOOD


MENU

Photos by Tuong Vi

Determined never to stand still, Tadioto has


teamed up with well-known chef, Hugo
Barberis, to add new dishes to the food
menu to go with all those fine cocktails,
spirits and beers its clientele are used to
knocking back.
Building on the existing offerings, new
dishes include pasta fare, sandwiches,
breakfasts and a selection of desserts.
Theres also a range of tapas including
hummus and baba ghanoush (aubergine
spread) as well as the likes of taro and
shitake mushroom soup. Dishes cost
between VND50,000 and VND150,000.
Tadioto is at 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6680 9124

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 57

overscene hanoi

argentine food
festival

Photos provided by Argentinan Embassy


Argentina was overdue for a visit,
and hearty cuts of beef and cocklewarming wines charmed the home
crowd

58 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

fashion fringe
festival

Photos byJulie Vola


Hanoi forgot jacket season for a night,
as the citys cutting edge young
designers took centre stage

HIWC Annual bazaar

Photos by David Mann


Following in a tradition that raised
VND2.65 billion for Vietnams needy in
the last edition, thousands shopped for
a good cause

If you have a noteworthy event which you think


would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

pet garage sale

Photos by Julie Vola


Hanoi Pet Rescue and SmartHeart
staged their annual fundraiser, and your
puppy was the guest of honour

based on kyoto

Photos by David Harris


The Japanese collective brought the
house-electro-ambient-dub-soul-jazz-rock
flavour to CAMA ATK

60 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Insider

MANY FACES // RECONSTRUCTING THE CAPITAL // THE 1ST ANNUAL WORDIE AWARDS // BENEATH
THE WRAPPER // ZONE 9: ONE YEAR ON // MURDER ON THE RED CARPET // MYSTERY DINER HANOI //
STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // RWANDA
PASSPORT-EATING DOGS, VOLCANOES AND GORILLAS // THE BLUFFS HO TRAM // BIEN HOA
PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY
wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 61

insider
MANY FACES

HCMC

The Most Interesting


Tailor in Saigon

In the market for a suit, Niko Savvas gets fitted by one of Saigons true originals.
Photo by Kyle Phanroy

m waiting for Kenn Smith at a chic French


caf so I can get measured for my suit.
When he walks through the door, people
turn and stare.
They stare because Kenn Smith is huge. He
played American football in university and
still seems like he could knock some heads
on the field. He dwarfs the young waitress
who escorts him to our table.
They stare because Kenn Smith is welldressed. He wears a crisp three-piece suit,
black with thin white pinstripes. Golden cuff
links glitter at his wrists and his polished
shoes sparkle brilliantly.
But mostly the people stare because Kenn
Smith really, really looks like the Dos Equis
guy.

Sartorial Psychology
The resemblance is no accident. As a tailor
Kenn is in the business of image crafting,
and hes good at it. He has a businessmans
attention to detail, which makes sense
because he was once the chief financial officer
for a multinational corporation based in the
US.
His business background is evident when
he sits down at the table. His handshake is
firm but not bone-crushing. When he speaks,
his voice is deep and calm. He makes polite
eye contact but doesnt stare. Not once does
he glance at his phone.
Kenn makes me feel like everything I say is
interesting. Its a practised skill.
The most important aspect of human
communication is body language and facial
expression, he explains. You may hear a
word, but that isnt enough to tell you what
the person intended. You need to see and feel
the undertones.
When Kenn talks, the rest of the room
fades away like the blurry background of a
photograph.
55 percent of our communication comes
from that, he adds. And 37 percent
comes from the quality of our voice. How
are we using it are we raising it or
lowering it, whats the tone? That tells
us a lot more than the words alone, also.
The actual words we say only give us
eight percent, which is why I dont carry a
smartphone. I prefer to communicate face
to face with people.
Hes like a professional hypnotist; I know
that hes exerting a subtle influence over me,
but the effect is so pleasant that I dont mind.

62 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Also, although the caf is full of beautiful


women I find it difficult to look away from
Kenns face. He smiles when I mention this.
In face-to-face conversation, a suit
augments the communication. It grabs the
attention of your listener. If youre wearing a
dark jacket and trousers with a white shirt, it
creates a natural spotlight on the face.
He traces a V with his hands from his
collarbone to mid-chest. Then he raises his
wrists.
We also want to frame our hand gestures
when we talk, which is why jacket sleeves are

They stare because


Kenn Smith is huge...
They stare because
Kenn Smith is welldressed... But mostly
the people stare
because Kenn Smith
really, really looks like
the Dos Equis guy
a little bit shorter than shirt sleeves.
If youre dressed improperly for a
situation, youre allowing your listeners mind
to wander. People arent very good listeners
to begin with if theyre listening hard, they
might retain 10 percent of what youre saying.
If youre wearing something that distracts
them, the percentage is even lower.
The suit is not distracting. I think I may
have retained as much as 20 percent of what
he said.

The Price of Elegance


Still, the entire time Kenn is talking Im
silently worrying about money. By now Im
convinced that he can make a better suit than
your typical tailor on De Tham, but I also
suspect that Id need to sell a kidney to afford
one.
So Im a little startled when he quotes
a price that even an English teacher could
manage. Kenn explains that Im buying a
fused-line suit, in which the lining is glued to
the wool jacket shell. The price for these suits

varies depending on fabric, but most fall


between VND4 million and VND5 million.
If I was willing to spend VND9 million,
I could walk away with a canvassed suit,
which has a hand-sewn silk lining. Kenn
regularly exports these to fashionable
London boutiques, where they sell for over
UK1,000 (VND34 million).
He also has occasional orders for pure
cashmere suits, which can run up to
US$25,000 (VND530 million). I chuckle when
he tells me that. Who the hell would spend
that kind of money on a suit?
Nobody in Vietnam, Kenn says. Youd
sweat right through it.
Apparently there are limits to the power of
a suit. I order one anyway.

The Modern Gentleman


A few weeks later, I visit Kenns villa in
District 7 to pick up my suit. His wife brings
us chocolate milkshakes as we sit in the
living room, watching the rain sizzle on the
pavement.
Kenns in a three-piece suit again, seemingly
oblivious to the Saigon heat. He asks me if I
enjoy cigars. I say yes. This is the right answer
Kenn explains that hes in the process of
developing a new British-style gentlemans
club in Saigon. He envisions it as a modernday salon, where members can mingle while
enjoying fine whiskies and cigars.
Its no accident that the best known
figures from the 20th century knew each
other socially, Kenn says, and probably
enjoyed cigars and whiskey together. I think
thats one thing thats lacking here. There
are a lot of great minds in Saigon, both local
Vietnamese and some of the expats. But they
dont have a place where they can come
together and talk without loud music and
other distractions.
I ask if he thinks there are enough rich,
cigar-smoking people in Saigon to make such
a club viable (personally I had my doubts).
As it turns out, I was asking the wrong
question.
I dont care who has the most money, he
says. What Im looking for are people who
have something to contribute. Who has an
idea that might be great? Can other people
learn from him?
If hes wearing the right suit, why not?
Kenn Smith is the brains behind House of
Brijuni, a Saigon-based fashion line. Find more on
Facebook at facebook.com/www.brijuni.us

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 63

insider
THE CITY

HANOI

Reconstructing
the Capital
While Saigon is working on a public transport network that will transform the city,
Hanoi has some solutions of its own in the works. Words by Lucy Sexton.
Photos by Julie Vola
The Nhat Tan Bridge
The seventh bridge in Hanoi to cross the
sprawling Red River delta, Nhat Tan is
Vietnams newest and largest cable-stayed
bridge at a massive 33.2m wide and 8.9km
long (including the approach road). Its eight
lanes four of which are reserved for buses
and motorbikes and pedestrian sidewalks
are scheduled to open to traffic in January
2015.
Although the bridge arose from pragmatic
considerations shortening the distance
to Noi Bai Airport and connecting major

64 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

industrial parks in the north it is a project


steeped in symbolism. Some see the bridge
as a reflection of Vietnamese and Japanese
friendship; the Japanese ambassador to
Vietnam, Hiroshi Fukada, even proposed
changing the name to the Japan-Vietnam
Friendship Bridge (Cau Huu Nghi Viet
Nhat). Without the principal investment of
the Japan International Cooperation Agency
(JICA), the project would never have moved
forward; a project that director Nguyen Le
Minh said cost VND13.6 trillion (JPY89.943
billion).

The bridge design itself, however, is of


local inspiration. As Minh explains, The
continuous cable-stayed bridge has five
tower cranes and five spans, which will most
certainly come to symbolise the five gates [of
Thang Long Citadel].
Whether residents in the neighbouring
districts of Tay Ho, Dong Anh and Soc
Son will see it as such may rest upon the
realities of the transformation to the area.
Commercial activity is sure to pick up, but
with that will come an increase in daily
traffic as mercantile transport between the

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 65

Despite its scale, the design of the bridge lends


it an immaterial quality; wind and water seem to
flow through as if it had never been built
industrial parks will become finally feasible.
But even if the changes are unwelcomed
by residents, one hopes the bridge views
over the maze of river veins bleeding out
to the sea can alleviate some of the growing
pains. Despite its scale, the design of the
bridge lends it an immaterial quality; wind
and water seem to flow through as if it had
never been built.
The five-year project will soon reach its
completion. The last of the asphalt on the
connecting Noi Bai airport road will be a
welcome sight to what has been a marathon
project.

Noi Bais Terminal 2


There would be little cause to build a new
bridge and airport road if there wasnt an
airport in need of it. And if ever there was an
airport in need of an upgrade to its runways,
Noi Bai is it.
The 21st century inaugurated a revolution
in Vietnams air-travel industry. In the
first decade air traffic quadrupled, with
a stunning 80 percent of international
passengers going through just two airports,
Hanois Noi Bai and Ho Chi Minh Citys Tan
Son Nhat. Top those numbers off with the

66 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

fact that Noi Bai has had the highest growth


rate of any airport in the country, and its
humble beginnings seem a distant dream.
Originally built as a military airbase for
the NVA, Noi Bais two runways began
accommodating commercial flights postwar. From 1975 to 2001, when the first
international terminal opened, the airport
largely operated out of its old military
skeleton. Today the skeleton still survives,
but its struggling to keep up with a new
Vietnam.
The two air force runways, never
intended for commercial service, are limited
to 10 million passengers by international
aviation standards. Terminal 1 was
originally designed for a modest six million
passengers. A decade later, and serving
over 13 million passengers, the airport has
outgrown itself yet again, far surpassing its
allowance. The figures are a testament to its
unparalleled growth.
Vietnam again has much to thank from
their Japanese neighbours. A project to build
a second terminal was made possible by
assistance from JICA, the same partners on
Nhat Tan Bridge. Construction costs, tallying
at more than VND4.7 billion (JPY36.65

million), were offset by JICAs JPY12.6


million loan.
The new Terminal 2 (T2) of Noi Bai
Airport has been long in the making.
According to a deputy director, its on track
to open at the end of this year. The terminal,
capable of serving another 10 million
passengers annually, will alleviate the
airports current crunch but for how long?
The decision to build T2 was perhaps a
bit shortsighted. Born from an anxiety to get
the airport up to code, and mired in a vision
of Noi Bai as Hanois one-and-only airport,
there was only talk of how big Noi Bai
could grow. Estimations in the Master Plan
dreamed as high as a passenger capacity of
50 million.
Talk was upbeat. Noi Bai International
Airport in Vietnams capital of Hanoi will
become a major international airport in
Southeast Asia with high-security and
convenience, said a JICA press release in
mid-2013. By December 2013, they were
already speaking of expanding T2.
But the idea of a new airport altogether
was also posed, one that could become an
international hub in Southeast Asia, along
the lines of Bangkoks Suvarnabhumi. And
with a grander project on the horizon, the
hopeful vision of Noi Bais international
expansion would perhaps become moot.

Hai Duong International Airport


According to Vietnamese newspapers,
an MoU between the government and
GARUDA, a seaport and airport building,

When the first international terminal opened [at Noi Bai], the airport
largely operated out of its old military skeleton. Today the skeleton
still survives, but its struggling to keep up with a new Vietnam
management and consultant company
was signed in January 2010. The flurry of
reports promised US$15 billion (VND315
trillion) in FDI money towards building new
international airports Long Thanh in Ho
Chi Minh City, Hai Duong in Hanoi and Chu
Lai in Quang Nam Province.
Each airport was expected to out-shadow
their predecessor in the hopes of alleviating
the growing strain on the countrys three
international airports. The new airport
is due to replace the overloaded Noi Bai
International Airport, which will likely be
relegated to domestic flights only, said Mr.
Koenigsberg, the director of the proposed
GARUDA project, back in 2010.
So Noi Bai, according to Hai Duong
advocates, was to take on recent growth in
domestic air traffic, which had increased by
304 percent since 2005. An initial capacity of
35 million international passengers a year, and
80 million by the 2035 end of the new airport
project, is a scale hard to compete with.
Designs proposed for Hai Duong also
posed a challenge to an outdated Noi
Bai. Two heliports, a hospital, a school,
apartments and hotels in the surrounding
area, would introduce a predicted 10,000
new permanent jobs. The vision, beyond
merely satisfying a hunger for runway
space, reflected a Hanoi aspiring to become
a globalizing and dynamic nexus in the
region.
After 2010 the media coverage came to
a lull. Presumably plans were underway
for the late 2014 airport deadline well,

no reports were published to the contrary.


And certainly no new airport appeared.
Hai Duong seemed lost amongst the slew
of projects on the agenda; 26 functioning
airports have been promised by 2020.
While airport development was planned
all over the country, investment money
was coming in from all over the globe.
Many enterprises have expressed interest
in investing in airport projects in Hue,
Cam Ranh and Lam Dong, Luong Hoai
Nam, an aviation expert, told Thanh News
this October. Frances ADP, Samsung,
South Koreas Incheon Airport and Japan
reportedly already offered investment

money.
The facts remain shaky. Requests for
information on the Hai Duong airport
revealed that no one could either confirm
or deny that there ever was such a project.
Further entreaties for information were
bounced around in a bureaucratic game of
email ping-pong.
It seems safe to say, Noi Bais international
future will not be dimmed by Hai Duong.
Terminal 2, Nhat Tan Bridge, JICA, tourists
and the capital will have a moment to
breathe more comfortably in a new skin
until the phantom Hai Duong project
precipitates out of its wafty vision.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 67

THE 1ST ANNUAL

WORDIE
AWARDS
W

eve wanted to do annual awards for years, but


theres something cumbersome about the name,
The Word Awards. Two ws and similar vowel sounds
while theres a ring to it, it just doesnt quite work.

At the beginning of October it all changed.


One of our freelancers came up with an abbreviation
The Wordies. Suddenly we had something. Putting together
annual awards has been a long time coming.
Nine years ago, when we first started exploring the lifestyle
landscape in Vietnam, international-standard restaurants were rare
and beer clubs were still quan nhaus. Our mission was not only
to entertain and to fill an information gap at a time
when information was scarce, but also to support
a developing Vietnam and anything or anyone
that was doing something intrinsically good.
Now that our nightlife and daylife scenes have gained a
certain degree of maturity, and now that information is
everywhere, our role has changed. For those of us
who dont get our intel off TripAdvisor, there is a
need for a more discerning source of comparison.
So weve compiled a list of the best in Vietnam at the
current moment places that excel, but are still
grounded in the uniqueness of this country.
To do this weve split our awards into two parts.
The first are awards that weve put together the best
(and worst) of 2014. We cover everything from culture
to technology to news and back again.
The second section includes our person of the year as well as
our Top 10s restaurants, bars, cafes, nightclubs, beer clubs and
destinations. For the Top 10s we asked 60 judges to give us their
votes. While some of the top places on our lists were expected,
some others were less so. Its good to be surprised.
We then finish off The Wordies with the individual awards of
guest judges from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
We hope you enjoy the read!

THE

WORDIES
NE

2014
WS

AWA R D

NEWS AWARDS

What Youve Been Missing By Not Reading the News

The Mad Fishmonger Award for Most Dead Fish in a Weird Place goes to...

The Sea of Dead Fish in Thien Quang Lake

Known as a relaxing area for early exercisers, on the morning of Sep. 15 Hanois Thien
Quang Lake stopped being a pleasant place to walk by. Tonnes of dead white fish floated
over the water and covered many parts of the lake. The smell from the fish on that still-warm
day was not pleasant. One official charged with cleaning the lake estimated that over six
tonnes of dead fish were removed in the morning only.
This wasnt the first time this has happened in Thien Quang. Locals say that the fish
die every time the lake is dredged with fishing nets, which stir up the mud at its bottom.
However, this was the biggest fish massacre seen here to date.
The Who Are the Real Animals Here? Award for Hastening the Apocalypse goes to...

The Tiger Terrorists

This past June, authorities patrolling National Highway 1A in Nghe An Province saw a truck
driving without a plate number, so they signaled the driver to pull over for a routine check.
Instead of stopping, the driver sped away. In the ensuing chase, people in the truck
started throwing obstacles at the car following but what happened next went beyond
anyones imagination.
Two anesthetised tigers were thrown from the hold, stopping the police in their tracks.
The two rope-bound animals were identified as endangered Indochinese tigers, weighing
75kg and 90kg respectively. They were taken to Pu Mat National Park for care on the same
day, waking up four days later and eventually making a full recovery.

70 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

The Daily Mail Yellow Journalism Award


for Most Fearmongering Headline goes to...

The No Frills Airline We Will Get You There Eventually Award goes to...

The Machete Thief

VietJet Air

In April, the leader of an eight-member


machete-wielding gang, Ho Duy Truc,
was given the death penalty. The
headline once again recalled the publics
feelings of fear and anger towards the
man who nearly chopped off a womans
hand, in an attempt to rob her motorbike
in December 2012. Despite his appeal for
a lighter sentence after being charged
with capital punishment in 2013, the
board of judges said the 20-year-olds
crime was too brutal and hysteriainducing to let slide.
Notorious for their slash and
rob technique, Trucs machete gang
perpetrated 15 robberies in Ho Chi
Minh City, with the most terrifying one
attempted on Nguyen Thi Thuy when she
was riding a scooter over Phu My Bridge.
Truc slashed at her wrist twice, leaving
her arm connected by only a thin piece
of skin.
But Thuy has since recovered, and in
April sent a letter to the president asking
for clemency for Truc, on account of his
young daughter. And so the destiny of
the machete thief has not yet been sealed.

Sep. 19 will forever be remembered as the day the VietJet girls flipped the no smoking light
off. A photo set posted on Lingerie Queen Ngoc Trinhs Facebook went viral, showing a
sneak peek at a new Vietjet Air promotional campaign featuring nine scantily-clad models
posing in the airlines branded bikinis. The models were seen inside the cabin checking the
overhead lockers, walking down the aircraft steps waving sparklers, and doing other things
that lingerie models routinely do on VietJet flights.
The photo leak was met with mixed reactions from netizens some thought it was fun
and creative, while others objected. Perhaps VietJet would have garnered less criticism if
one of their planes hadnt landed in the wrong airport in June going to Cam Ranh instead
of Dalat.

The Bilbo Teabaggins Memorial Trolling


Award goes to...

The Mankini Models of Quan Ut Ut

Less than a week after VietJet Airs


photo leak scandal, Facebookers were
again shocked by photos of models in
red-and-yellow swimwear this time
taken in the space of Saigon barbecue
restaurant Quan Ut Ut. The five foreign
men in sexy outfits and sassy facial
expressions imitated the poses of the
hot models in VietJet Airs photo shoots
with guys checking out the bar area
in the restaurant instead of the aircraft
cabin.

The Wear Your Titanium Alloy Flip-Flops Most Flooded Road in Vietnam Award goes to...

The Great Hydrochloric Acid Flood of Bien Hoa City

In November, an accident occurred in Bien Hoa that would give even the most ardent flipflop wearer pause for thought. A truck carrying 5,000 litres of hydrochloric acid flipped over,
flopping the plastic cases containing the toxic acid onto the highway. The leaked substance
flooded the road, creating a threatening scene of simmering liquid and toxic fumes.
Fortunately no-one was injured.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 71

EL

2014
OP

DS

WORDIES
V

For Excellence / Ruination in Development

THE

DE

DEVELOPMENT
AWARDS

AR
M E N T AW

The Tour Operators Gone Wild Award for Shortsightedness goes to

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park


Photos by Nick Ross

Son Doong is the worlds longest cave, and part of a network of outstanding natural beauty
recognised by UNESCO a pristine part of Vietnams heritage. So, what to do? Team up
with the Sun Group to build a cable car linking the network of caves in Phong Nha-Ke Bang
National Park ending at Son Doong to encourage tourism.
Using a manmade solution to access a place of natural beauty has a certain logic to it.
Bring more people to the site, make money out of it and, in theory, protect it. Yet theres
another issue here. Places like Son Doong are ecologically delicate. And mass tourism
has the potential to create mass destruction. To make this work, the project needs to be
undertaken with the upmost care.
That the go-ahead has now been given to build a cable car up to the top of Fansipan
is also a worry. On the one hand, Europes tallest mountain, Mont Blanc, is served by a
cable car. So, giving access to the summit of Indochinas highest peak makes sense, both
economically and in terms of attracting tourists. But as with so much in Vietnam, the issue
once again is conservation. The path to the top of Fansipan already suffers from an excess
of litter along its sides. By bringing up more tourists, unless stringent rules are put in place,
this will only be exacerbated.

72 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photo by Francis Xavier

Photo by David Harris

The They Do Listen To Us! Award for Not Fixing Unbroken


Things goes to

The Most Elegant Poophouse Award goes to

Long Bien Bridge

Tao Dan Park

The Expat Forums are Frothing Award for Corporate Debut goes to

The Are We There Yet? Award for Its Complicated goes to

Monsanto

The Ho Chi Minh City Metro

Hanois Long Bien Bridge, colloquially referred to as the horizontal


Eiffel Tower, has had a chequered yet central history in the city. Having
fallen into disrepair, there were plans to demolish it. But due to a
spirited campaign led by Nguyen Nga, and other Hanoi natives, the
bridge is now once again being seen as a thriving symbol of Hanois
history, with annual festivals to celebrate its cultural significance.
Just dont make the mistake of thinking this structure was built
by Gustave Eiffel. It wasnt.

Nope, its not McDonalds. Yes, this multinational is an easy


target. But the fast food symbol of American globalisation and the
purveyor of the Big Mac Index has for many turned into quite a
welcome addition to Ho Chi Minh City. Hanoi should be next on
the McMenu.
The debutising company that has really got peoples backs up is
Monsanto. Not, of course, that theyre called Monsanto in Vietnam.
No, in our fair climes they go under the moniker of Dekalb
Vietnam, with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. And
with several varieties of genetically modified corn now approved
for import into Vietnam, the makers of Agent Orange are making a
comeback.
With such a perverse irony at play, not surprisingly its a
comeback that online has had some, erm, real comeback.

Over the last two years, the Ho Chi Minh City authorities have
opened a series of five-star toilets based on those that you would
expect to find in the finest hotels with estimated construction
costs ranging up to VND1billion a go. Except these are not in fivestar hotels or restaurants, but in public parks.
Our award for the number one toilets, with stiff competition,
goes to one of the originals at the one and only Tao Dan Park. It
even comes with toilet paper.

Vietnam has a number of large-scale infrastructure projects in the


works, getting the go-ahead or in construction.
The most talked about are the Hanoi Monorail which many of
us mistakenly thought had started construction three years ago
and the Ho Chi Minh City Metro system. First put on the drawing
board in the early 2000s, Saigon is finally getting its much yearned
for metropolitan rail network. Hanoi will have to wait a bit.
Getting from A to B, or in this case, Z, has been very complicated.
Hoops the size of the rings of Saturn have been leapt through. But
thanks to investment, knowhow and specialists provided by Japan,
together both local and overseas partners have navigated the triple
jump, which then became the long jump. Now the two partners
working on the Ho Chi Minh City Metro System are negotiating
puddles.
This doesnt mean that building lines 1 and 2 will be easy. With
Nguyen Hue, parts of Le Loi and parts of Le Thanh Ton closed
down, central Ho Chi Minh City is dealing with the disruption.
But something unique is coming to Vietnams commercial hub. Its
arrival will be very welcome.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 73

THE

C
TE

HN

2014
OLO

DS

WORDIES
AR
GY AW

TECHNOLOGY
AWARDS
For keeping us inside on Friday nights

The Maybe We Should Try Laying Two Cables Award goes to...

The Stinking, Goshdarn Internet Cable

A break in the Asia Pacific Gateway (AAG) Internet cable connecting Southeast Asia with
the US mainland caused uproar among Internet users not once or twice, but three times this
year and perhaps set a new record.
The cable, which was found sliced 70km off the coast of Hong Kong, resulted in a
significant slowdown in bandwidth for weeks in March, September and October, and meant
we couldnt stream Game of Thrones episodes. So yes it was really, really annoying.
Authorities have since repaired the cable and are probably on standby until it breaks
again. On the plus side, they seem to be getting faster at repairing it.
The From Where Youd Rather Be Award for Best Facebook
Updates goes to...

The Prison Selfie Master

Everyone knows the whole point of Facebook is to post jealousyinducing updates that make your life seem way more awesome
everyone elses. So when Tan Lap Prison inmate, Nguyen Duc
Hung, took to Facebook to update his friends on life behind bars,
we were a tad surprised.
The young prisoner, who still has five years to serve before his
release, caused a media storm after posting selfie after glorious
selfie of himself and his cellmates parading in stripey prison slacks
and appearing a bit too happy with their incarceration.
Unimpressed prison officials soon shut down the holiday camp
slideshow, confiscating mobile phones and restricting Hung to
solitary confinement for three months. Hung soon responded with
a cheery Facebook farewell to his newfound Internet fans. Touch,
Hung, touch.

74 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

The JD Salinger Award for Best Disappearing Act goes to...

Flappy Bird Creator Nguyen Ha Dong

After becoming the most downloaded game on smartphones the


world over, an intense wave of media scrutiny soon sent Flappy
Bird into a tailspin. The rags-to-riches success of the simple
game, which launched in 2013 and soon topped app charts,
catapulted the game and its maker Nguyen Ha Dong into the
global spotlight.
After initially positive coverage, however, green-eyed hysteria
surrounding the games VND1 billion-a-day advertising revenues
quickly devolved into frenzied speculation by local media of
IP theft and tax evasion. Not long after, Dong took to Twitter to
chastise the howling media and announce he was pulling the game.
While that meant we could all get back to work, we never liked
work that much anyway.

The Sharing Economy is Here Award for App Arrivals goes to...

Airbnb and Uber

You cant spell start-up without the word upstart and thats
exactly how some perceived the arrival of US-bred apps Airbnb
and Uber this year. While the firebrand apps drew protest from
Vietnamese industry groups and befuddled regulators, they wasted
no time in attracting consumers obsessed with luxury experiences
and low-end price tags.
American taxi app service Uber, which offers a cheap-butdefinitely-not-nasty private car service, launched in Ho Chi Minh
City in June and reached the capital in October. Meanwhile, Airbnb,
which debuted in August, allows users to rent apartments from
local hosts, and already boasts more than 1,000 listings across
Vietnams major cities.
The Is That With a Zero or an O Award goes to...

Wireless Vietnam

Loitering outside cafs to leech off Wi-Fi is no longer required


in Danang after the central city installed 400 Wi-Fi hotspots
at major attractions. The free service, which can allegedly
accommodate up to 10,000 connections at any given time,
was even extended from 20 minutes to an hour over Tet to
accommodate the extra snapchatting and holiday-related emojis.
Tam Dao also launched its own free Wi-Fi network in January
in a bid to lure tourists to the mountainous resort town. The
clever strategy was first employed by tourist hotspots Hoi An,
Halong Bay and Hue and has led to a dramatic increase in
tourism numbers and social media mentions. Who knew those
annoying Facebook check-ins and #foodgrams were actually a
good thing?

The Please Have a Cow, Man Award for Best Marketing


Gimmick goes to...

Viettels Canny Cow Promos

Nowadays, cash incentive schemes are, well, just plain boring. Like,
wheres the imagination? Which is why we were delighted to see
the crafty marketing gurus at Viettel put on their thinking caps and
devise a sales strategy that was a bit more moo-ving.
As reward for purchasing 15 new Viettel SIM cards at VND50,000
each, 1,300 lucky people in Quang Ninh Province were handed the
keys to a real-life, cud-chewing, milk-producing cow. The gimmick
saw the company smash an ambitious sale of 20,000 new SIMs in
the province. Now THATs what we call marketing, folks.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 75

THE

WORDIES
2014

UL
TUR

E AWA R

DS

CULTURE
AWARDS
For Wasting Time in Fun Ways

The ASEAN Pride Festival

In Hanoi, promotional powerhouse CAMA teamed up with the American Embassy and
several LGBT groups to put on a glittery, grungy showcase of the best music Southeast Asia
has to offer, all in support of diversity and acceptance. Eight bands and one high-heel dance
troupe provided the soundtrack last May at the American Club, but the spotlight was on
rockin in the free world.

The If You Book It, They Will Come


Award for Biggest Touring Act goes to...

Hardwell

While we make a lot of noise about


Vietnams strides towards international
tour stop legitimacy in live music, when
it comes to big time international DJs
Vietnam has already arrived. And all this
momentum came to a head this year, when
the consensus number one DJ in the world,
Hardwell, came to Ho Chi Minh Citys
Quan Khu 7 Stadium. Capping a year that
also drew luminaries like Steve Aoki and
Lil Jon on the wheels of steel, Vietnams
place in the EDM world is looking more
secure than ever.

76 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Teresa Welleans

The Collaborative Culture Award for Best Party goes to...

The Techsavvy Manchild Memorial Award for Best Selfie goes to...

Everyone Who Took One in Front of the Giant Rubber Duckie

Visitors to Ho Chi Minh Citys Crescent Lake were greeted by a delightful photo op for
nearly a month last May, when a 600kg yellow duck took to the waters off Phu My Hung.
Bobbing merrily alongside the lakefront attractions created to complement its presence, the
duck aimed to trigger everyones fond childhood memories, in the words of its Dutch
creator. And no future recollections were harmed in this escapade, as the duck enjoyed the
smooth seas that evaded it last year in Hong Kong, when it deflated into a giant rubber
puddle, and in Belgium in 2009, when it was stabbed 42 times by a vandal.

The Wu Tang Clan Memorial RuckusBringing Award for Most Informative Raps
goes to...

RapNews+

Photo by Francis Xavier

The Janet Jackson Memorial Prize for Best Nip Slip goes to...

Fish Girl's Cosplay Antics at the Spring Days Festival

Ho Chi Minh Citys cosplay scene got a little too heated at the Japanese-themed Spring
Days Festival, when according to Tuoi Tre scene icon Erina aka Yokusou Gyo (bathtub
fish), aka Sakana-chan (fish girl) acted provocatively pulling up her skirt and
crawling on the floor. After cosplay enthusiasts circulated videos of her sexy act, some of
which were taken from a ground-level vantage, online outrage mounted, and Erina was
forced to issue an apology. Soon after the blow-up she disappeared, both from the scene
and online which was perhaps best for Vietnamese cosplays gentle heart, considering
the masturbatory toy-laden Facebook profile she took with her.

While its a well known fact that kids these


days wont listen to anyone, Vietnamese
news agency VietnamPlus has figured out
a way to reach even the most jaded youth:
rap to them. And when youre rapping
about such social media-friendly topics as
poorly-run domestic airlines and celebrity
scandals, the kids will even help you spread
your knowledge seeds.
In recognition of the kings of
knowledge rap, at this years World Young
Reader Prizes the top award in the Digital
First category went to RapNews+.
Honouring the news publisher that most
creatively engages the young through
mobile telephones, tablets and other
digital devices, this prize showed finally
that parents well, governing media
associations do understand. With their
newfound street cred, RapNews+ has
vowed to go down to the rap store and
search out some fresher beats.

The I Just Got My Hair Did Award for


Most Public Ice Bucket Challenge Snub
goes to...

A Still-Dry Transport Minister

When Voice of Vietnam first runner-up


Dinh Huong poured her ice bucket in a
YouTube video, she took the weird step
of nominating Vietnamese Minister of
Transport Dinh La Thang, saying, We
share the last name [Dinh], so I decided
to challenge him. He did not respond.
Newswires countrywide picked up the
story, wedging in the gossipy tidbit to more
substantial reporting on the craze, such as
the doctor who warned that people with
heart diseases and the elderly should not
take the challenge.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 77

THE

WORDIES
2014
ON

PE

RS

E
OF THE Y

Photo by Francis Xavier

78 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

PERSON OF THE YEAR:


ALAIN CARPENTIER
N
ovembers CMI charity gala in Ho Chi Minh City, which
benefits Alain Carpentiers heart-surgery initiatives in
Vietnam, raised more money than ever before.
Substantially increasing the funds from the previous
edition, the event at the Park Hyatt raised the equivalent of 60
life-saving childrens surgeries. All cementing the fact that Alain
Carpentier has been the most productive 81-year-old we know.
Its not just his philanthropic work which continues to amaze,
but also his scientific work in developing the worlds first fully
artificial, self-regulating heart. Designed to be a permanent
replacement for the failed organ, rather than a bridge until a donor
can be found, its an ambitious piece of equipment that failed its
first human trial but its a fair sign that the father of modern
mitral valve repair is still on his game.
In our short photo session, we saw proof of Mr. Carpentiers
energy, as well as his impatience with being made to stand still.
After the photo shoot had dragged on for three or four minutes, he
asked photographer Francis if she knew who Henri Cartier-Bresson
was the father of photojournalism. Not waiting for an answer, he
said, He was my friend, and he never took more than one shot to
get a picture. Do you see what I am saying?
This is what its like to spend 30 seconds in conversation with our
2014 Person of the Year. Hes like the coolest uncle ever the one
who you dont want to interrupt, for fear youll miss the point.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 79

2014

AU

NA

RE

ST

ET

TOP

WORDIES

THE

I
V
R A N T S IN

THE TOP
RESTAURANTS
IN VIETNAM

As we put together our list of the top restaurants in this


countrys two major cities Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City
we decided to keep it simple.

Blanchy Street

Pizza 4Ps

The Deck

Pizza 4Ps

Racha Room

ith over 60 judges replying to our questions, we


asked them what places in their opinion they thought
were the best. By soliciting a response to such a
broad question, it meant that their answers would be
based on the whole package service, dcor, cuisine, ambience
rather than judging these facets of restaurants as separate
components. This was what we were looking for.
As the votes came in, with a few notable exceptions it became
clear that our judges went for international restaurants as opposed to
Vietnamese, and restaurants serving up a la carte fare as opposed to
those known for their buffets. Except for Square One in Ho Chi Minh
City and JW Marriot in Hanois two restaurants Crystal Jade and
French Grill the hotel restaurants, often known for their buffets,
struggled to get votes.
Likewise, except for El Gaucho, which managed to finish in the
Top 10 for both cities, the chain restaurants found it difficult to
get attention. Yet restaurant collaboratives such as the Au Parc /
Refinery / Blanchys Street group in Ho Chi Minh City, focusing on
one-of-a-kind eateries, got the judges blessing.
So heres the lowdown on the best places to eat in Vietnam.

Ho Chi Minh City

In the past few years, Ho Chi Minh Citys Pizza 4Ps has achieved
something of a cult status. Set down an alleyway off Le Thanh Ton

80 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

on the other side of the Expat Ghetto, this Japanese-run, homemademozzarella joint has long tickled the fancy of its customers. From our
judges votes, it was very much the number one restaurant in Saigon.
In fact, it was the runaway number one, getting 40 percent more
votes than the nearest contenders, El Gaucho and The Deck. A bit
of an anomaly, really. Who ever heard of a pizza restaurant being the
best restaurant in a city of over 10 million?
That El Gaucho ran in equal second with The Deck tells you how
well this Argentinean-themed restaurant with its taste-like-home
steaks, themed dcor and international ambience has managed to set
itself up in Saigon. With three restaurants already opening their doors
to grill-loving customers, so popular is its Bangkok outlet that you
have to book in advance to get a table.
The Deck, too, has managed to carve itself out a niche, one that is
not just due to its riverside, District 2 location. Elegant and romantic,
and serving up great cocktails to go with its contemporary pan-Asian
fusion menu, together with two other Top 10 restaurants in the same
area of Saigon Lubu and Trois Gourmands it provides quality
cuisine outside the city centre.
Of the newcomers, Racha Rooms entry into the Top 10 is perhaps
the most surprising. Serving up Thai-accented, Pan-Asian cuisine,
this restobar set within the confines of a colonial-era building on
Mac Thi Buoi is finding success in a location where past restaurants
have failed.

Photo by David Harris

Don's Tay Ho

Foodshop 45

El Gaucho

Hanoi

When Dani Himi, the brains behind El Gaucho, was opening his
first restaurant in Hanoi, he researched the dining scene in the
capital. His opinion was that Da Paolo was the best restaurant
in Hanoi. Its an opinion that was shared by our judges, with the
Italian eatery getting the most votes.
That El Gaucho came in at a close number two was perhaps no
surprise. And other well-known favourites such as Dons Tay Ho,
Foodshop 45, Jacksons Steakhouse, Moose & Roo and Namaste
making the Top 10 was expected. What was perhaps less expected
was the entry of Cousins a French-inspired eatery only opened
in the summer. Likewise, the fact that Pots n Pans was one of
only two Vietnamese eateries making the Top 10 in either city
suggests that the concept of mid to top-end Vietnamese fare in an
international setting is still in its infancy.
Also interesting was the lack of classic French restaurants
among your favourites, with only La Badiane hitting the spot. The
contemporary yet traditional eatery came third in the rankings.
A number of other restaurants came close to the Top 10 including
1946, Angelina, Highway 4, Cau Go, Quan An Ngon and
interestingly, both the restaurants in the JW Marriott French
Grill and Crystal Jade. Like Cousins, they are new to the dining
scene in the capital. And despite location the JW Marriott is in
My Dinh in West Hanoi they are already getting a reputation.

Ho Chi Minh City

Hanoi

The Top 10*

The Top 10*

Au Parc

Cousins

Ciao Bella

Da Paolo

Cuc Gach Quan

Dons Tay Ho

El Gaucho

El Gaucho

Lubu

Foodshop 45

Pizza 4Ps

Jacksons Steakhouse

Racha Room

La Badiane

The Deck

Moose & Roo

Trois Gourmands

Namaste

Vesper

Pots n Pans

Restaurants in The Top 35*

Restaurants in The Top 35*

Au Lac Do Brazil

1946

Bahdja

a la Folie

BiBi at Alibi

Al Frescos

Blanchys Street

Angelina

Corso

Au Lac Do Brazil

Elbow Room

Bluebird

Ganesh

Cau Go Vietnamese Restaurant

Hoa Tuc

Crystal Jade

Khoi Thom

French Grill

May Restaurant

Green Tangerine

Mekong Merchant

Halia Hanoi

Mogambo

Highway 4

Quan Ut Ut

Khazaana

Pendolasco

KOTO on Van Mieu

Refinery

La Verticale

Restaurant 13

Le Beaulieu

Saffron

Madame Hien

Secret Garden

Pyza

Shang Palace

Quan An Ngon

Shri

Ray Quan

Skewers

Salt n Lime

Square One

Sen

Sorae Sushi

Sushi Bar

Ty Coz

THBC Tapas Bar

Tuk Tuk Thai

The Republic

*The restaurants in these


lists have been organised in
alphabetical order

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 81

THE

TO
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R S IN VIE T

WORDIES
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THE TOP BARS


IN VIETNAM

Martini Bar / 2 Lam Son

Xu Lounge

Vesper

Chill Skybar

o matter how innovative or Bohemian the dcor, how


alternative the clientele or how congenial the service,
the bars that we like are the ones that fit in with the
experience we are searching out after dark. This is
what we bore in mind when we chose our judges. We looked
for people from different walks of life, people with different
experiences and tastes, so that when their opinions were
measured up and put together, we would be able to obtain an
aggregate sense of the bar scene in this country.
And of course, compile a Top 10.
As the list below was finally added up and discussed in our
office, there were a couple of awws and groans, disagreements and
comments like, so and so is sh*t. Or, xxx is only for rich people.
Wheres the spot for xxx? Such is the subjectivity shown towards
the bars that we love and hate.
Most interesting was the balance. It was the mid to top-end bars
that seemed to fare best. In Hanoi, seven of the Top 10 fit into this
pigeonhole, while in Saigon it was as high as eight. All suggesting
that the days of dive bars on Saigons Bui Vien or Hanois Ta Hien as
a favourite hangout are a thing of the past.

82 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Ho Chi Minh City

Topping the bunch was Xu, followed by Broma, Martini Bar,


La Fenetre Soleil and Vesper. Also in the Top 10 was Chill
Skybar, OMG, Saigon Outcast, Blanchys Tash and The
Observatory. Just missing out were Cargo Bar, deciBel, Last
Call and Blue Gecko.
What stands out here is the variety. Not just the variety of bars
chosen by our judges, but the sense that in this top of the drops
watering hole list there is a little something for everyone.
Take Blue Gecko, an Australian sports bar running since the
late 1990s. Mix this in with venue, event and live music space
Cargo Bar, the more business-orientated Vesper Bar and Lounge,
the top-end Martini Bar in The Park Hyatt and the street-credhaving alternative arts space Saigon Outcast. The bars in this list
represent a cross-section of Ho Chi Minh Citys nightlife.
Once the complaint was that Saigon could get dull
everything was very same-same and not all that different. Now
it is difficult to make the same accusation. Bars these days come
with a variety of themes. Its a change that has been positive for
the citys nightlife.

Photo byDiego Cortizas del Valle

Tadioto

Hanoi

Barbetta's former incarnation in Zone 9

Photo by Nguyen Bao Ngoc

Barbetta's former incarnation in Zone 9

The Red River Tea Room

Hanoi

The complaint constantly made by non-Hanoians visiting Hanoi is


that the nightlife, to avoid the standardly quoted expletive, is boring.
Theres nowhere to go and everything closes down at midnight.
While the latter statement may be true for much of the time, the
former is quite wrong. You only need to look at our Top 10 to see the
variety of nightlife options now available in the capital.
Heading up the list is the Vietnamese-owned, aesthetically
endearing Barbetta, which sits on top of the pile together with
Indochine-cum-contemporary downtown watering hole Tadioto.
Also in the Top 10 is event and live music venue CAMA ATK,
and cocktail and wine bar 88 Lounge. Dons Oyster Bar, with its
nightly live jazz and great views over West Lake, is at number four.
Alternative event spaces Madake and Hanoi Rock City, and sports
bar and gastropub The Republic follow.
The French-run gastrobar Ete makes an appearance, as does expat
riverside hangout Red River Tea Rooms. And just missing out on
the Top 10 are places like the upscale, outdoor bia hoi joint, Backyard
Bia Hoi, the motorbike-themed Kub and Kub Caf, and live music
venue Rockstore.
As in Saigon, Hanois nightlife has undergone immense change.
The days of the dive bar are behind us.

Ho Chi Minh City

Hanoi

The Top 10*

The Top 10*

Blanchys Tash

88 Lounge

Broma

Barbetta

Chill Skybar

Cama ATK

La Fenetre Soleil

Dons Oyster Bar

Martini Bar / 2 Lam Son

t Bar

OMG

HRC

Saigon Outcast

Madake

The Observatory

Red River Tea Room

Vesper Bar

Tadioto

Xu

The Republic

Bars in The Top 25*

Bars in The Top 25*

Blue Gecko

+84

Bob and Hiens

17 Cowboys

Bootleg DJ Caf

Backyard Bia Hoi

Cargo Bar

Binh Minhs Jazz Club

deciBel

Chez Xuan

Game On

Kub

Last Call

Lake Kub

McSorleys

Maos Red Lounge

O Briens

Mojito Bar

Phattys

Rockstore

Saigon Ranger

Rooftop

Saigon Saigon Bar

Summit Lounge

The Cube

Sunset Bar

Vino Wine Bar

Tay Tap

Wine Embassy

Tracys Sports Bar

*The bars in these lists have been


organised in alphabetical order

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 83

Ho Chi Minh City

It used to be enough to have air-conditioning and non-invasive


music. The smooth surfaces of mid-listers Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
and Starbucks hearken back to that era, and offer delicious coffee
confections besides. Phuc Long has a few more place-specific edges,

84 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

2014
CA

AM

FE S IN VIET

Photo by Charles Barnes

e knew this one would be tricky, as soon as we tried


to schedule a meeting at Ho Chi Minh Citys The
Workshop caf. Waiting upstairs for everyone to
arrive, a team member sent this text: Lol i cant
afford workshops coffee, im on the sidewalk outside.
And so the divide is growing, as more cafs offer speciality roasts
and Chemex-brewed cups (The Workshop offers five brewing
options for drip-filter coffee) at the expense of the classic ca phe. On
Ho Chi Minh Citys chain-drinking list, one notable omission was
ca phe sua da specialist Trung Nguyen faring as well, with three
votes, as Hanois least-favourite corporate, Starbucks.
It seems Saigonese just want to see and be seen top vote-getter
LUsine doubles as the best caf in Ho Chi Minh City to take a selfie
at. They also want to have outlets next to every table at WORK
Saigon, youre a straight-up nerd if you dont have a Macbook
and sip lattes poured with masterful rosettes. In Hanoi, Cong
Caphe, Tet Decor Caf and Caf Nha San are all atmosphere,
focusing on a textured past rather than a sleek future. Theyre social
spaces like top Hanoi vote-getter The Hanoi Social Club
whose quirkiness just helps the conversation flow.
So we present: The Top Cafs in Vietnam.

WORDIES
TO

THE TOP CAFS


IN VIETNAM

THE

managing to stand out in a sea of corporate-come-latelies like nearmiss Urban Station, and far-misses like My Life Coffee and The
Coffee Factory.
But thats not where the heat is at in Saigon, which also toplisted design-heavy favourites such as lead vote-getter Lusine, the
thoughtful architecture of ID Caf and two places with work in the
name co-working surrogates The Workshop and WORK Saigon.
These places are hip enough to make it in world cities like New York
or Melbourne, but faithful enough to local design traditions to only
be possible in Saigon.
Escaping the trendwatch are our second and third-highest votegetters Caf RuNam and Cuc Gach Caf, respectively. With
their cool vintage stylings, theyre not tapping into global currents
rather a current that is very localised, and runs very deep. And
while were on the topic, we want to give an honorary mention to
Things Caf, which might be too niche for even our expert judges,
located in the crumbling caf-tattoo-vintage clothing mecca of 14
Ton That Dam, Q1. Its also home to three other cult favourites: The
Other Person Caf, Mockingbird Caf and Nep Caf.
And rounding out the Top 10 is a true original, Fly Cupcake
Garden. Synthesising the Saigonese love of cupcakes with Alice in
Wonderland-like decor is a challenge, but the Fly Cupcake empire
builders did so with finesse in their premises on Tu Xuong. And
its fittingly on the periphery of this list, representative of the
still-alternative caf corridor it shares with other standouts like
Den & Trang, Caf Cuckoos Nest and the second iteration of ID
Caf.

Hanoi

Cong Ca Phe

The Hanoi Social Club

Hanoi

When talk turns to where to get a healthy meal that isnt light on
flavour, youd be surprised not to hear about The Hanoi Social
Club, which now enjoys cult status in the capital. Tucked away in
the central business district on Hoi Vu, this rustic caf-cum-live
music venue has topped our polls with its hearty gourmet cuisine
and refreshing homemade drinks menu.
Close behind, Cong Caphes iconic Communist-themed hangouts
have also earned your collective high-fives, with their precisionlike consistency, effortlessly cool spaces and rigorous dedication to
artisan coffee.
Art-house caf and gallery space Manzi has also gotten your
tick of approval. Beautifully designed in a colonial-era villa, the
contemporary art hub has won a place in the hearts of Hanois art
lovers and home-grown artists with its constant flood of exhibitions
and stage performances.
Injecting a dose of North American caf culture into our list, Joma
has carved out some serious kudos from this years voters with
its killer mugs of fair trade coffee, tasty bagel eggers and delicious
pastries baked fresh, daily.
Tay Hos Tet Dcor Caf also rounds out our Top 5. After being
open for barely a year, it has quickly attracted a loyal band of
followers that flock there for its strong flat whites, farm-fresh produce
and organic cooking. The caf also doubles as a comfy showroom for
the uber rustic furniture designs of the Tet Lifestyle Collection.
Modern hipster hangout the KAfe has also earned a place on our
list. The urban cafs focus on affordable quality and its international
menu was a much-needed game changer for Hanois culinary
establishment. Its wide selection of tapas dishes and handmade
cupcakes have now made it a pet favourite.
Even with so many new kids on the block, its hard to shake an
institution like Puku thatll deliver greasy hash browns and bacon
sandwiches to your door at literally any hour of the day. Further
north, fellow brunch-master Commune follows close behind with its
modest-but-poignant mix of baguettes and breakfast treats.
Newcomer Six Degrees on Nghi Tam has made a big splash this
year with its sweeping views of West Lake and the Red River, while
serving up reasonably priced gourmet cuisine and curious-sounding
waffle sandwiches.
Nha San Caf, a rural Muong ethnic minority house on stilts run
by the avant-garde Nha San Collective, is located in the quiet streets of
Vinh Phuc. With its impressive collection of Subsidy Era and wartime
antiques, and unpretentious drinks-only menu, its easy to see why this
one has charmed its way into the final spot in our Top 10.

Ho Chi Minh City

Hanoi

The Top 10*

The Top 10*

Caf RuNam

Commune

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

Cong Caphe

Cuc Gach Caf

Joma

Fly Cupcake Garden

KAfe

ID Caf

Manzi

LUsine

Nha San Caf

Phuc Long

Puku

Starbucks

Six Degrees

The Workshop

Tet Dcor Caf

WORK Saigon

The Hanoi Social Club

Cafs in the Top 20*

Cafs in the Top 20*

[a] caf

Boo Caf

Caf Centro

Caf Duy Tri

Cong Vien Van Hoa Park coffee

Caf Kinh Do

Era Caf

Caf Pho Co

Fix Republic

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

La Rotonde

Kafe Village

The Fig Caf

Kitchen

The Loop

Oriberry

Things Caf

Ray Quan

Urban Station

Yolo

*The cafs in these lists have been


organised in alphabetical order

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 85

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TN

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WORDIES
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U B S IN

THE TOP
NIGHTCLUBS
IN VIETNAM

Taboo Bar & Lounge

een too long since last Ladies Night? Up for some bad
decisions and want a good excuse for having made them?
Check out our judges selections of the best nightspots
in Vietnam, and find the cure for what ails you (sobriety).

Ho Chi Minh City

Try as we might, we still cant shake it. Apocalypse Now aka


Apo is still going strong 22 years into its reign, despite the rep its
always had as a bad decision in the making. Here again it takes the
top spot, tied at 15 votes with actual-DJ-booker Lush although
it should be noted there were a number of I dont go to clubs
abstentions.
This low voter turnout seems to be due to the overall shift in Saigon
nightlife, from the boom-chik-boom of yore to the cool bars and
venues that have been opening by the month, often booking better DJs
than even Lush manages. The Observatory owner Dan Bi Mong stood
in for many of us, when his write-in list for the category read:
The Observatory
The Observatory
The Observatory
Which is not to say these clubs have been standing still. Thirdplace finisher Fuse took a page from the protoculture manual in

86 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

booking Saigons preeminent live visuals artist Crazy Monkey to run


the hallucinations at their fifth-anniversary festival, Fuse Night Out.
In lining up a murderers row of DJs including DJ Mag's 17th-inthe-world ranked DJ Showtek in a sweet outdoor space in front of
7,000 people, Fuse showed that they can still throw a party with the
best of them.

Hanoi

Gyrating its way to the top of our ballot pile, The Bank is your
favourite place to hit the town and twerk your respective derrieres.
Complete with state-of-the-art lasers, roped-off areas, bottle service
and bathroom attendants, Hanois hippest club is the citys Mecca
for party-seekers and visiting DJs.
Anchored off Pier 1 in Tay Ho, floating fortress Taboo Bar and
Lounge was your second favourite place to see and be seen. Never
failing to cause a traffic jam on Thuy Khue on a Saturday night,
Taboos raised stages and winding stairwells are the perfect place to
as their motto encourages unlock your secret.
Rounding out our list is Level 10. Hidden up high and away from
the hustle and bustle, the clubs attentive cocktail staff, slick dcor
and sweeping views make it a good place to let your hair down and
meet Hanois most vibrant party animals.

THE

WORDIES
B

Vuvuzela in Saigon

RC

AM

2014

TN

TOP

EE

IE
LU B S IN V

THE TOP BEER CLUBS IN VIETNAM

f youve got a hip Facebook newsfeed, youll know that


the world has been taking notice of Vietnams beer clubs,
puke sinks and all. What do those of us living here make of
this uniquely Vietnamese phenomenon? Well, we like it...
sometimes.

Brauhaus also popular in the city to the north. With the Saigon
branch dating back to 2001, its the first brewpub in Vietnam, and
whether you believe theyve made the most of that head start or not,
at least they dont have puke sinks.

Ho Chi Minh City

Bursting onto the Hanoi scene last year, Vuvuzela tops our list with
its vast selection of imported brews and tasty beer accompaniments,
including beef carpaccio and glazed chicken wings. Located in Hoan
Kiem District, the beer club has been a firm favourite with the after
work business crowd.
Coming in at a close second, Hoa Vien Brauhaus specialises in its
own variations of Czech beer brewed in-house and poured on tap.
This distinctly Vietnamese beer hall also serves up a mix of Czech
and Vietnamese fare, all suitably aimed to line/grease the stomach
in between strong pitchers of golden ale.
Fellow Czech-inspired pub Pilsner Urquell snags the final spot
on our list. Whether its the weirdly technologised toilet seats,
authentically decorated walls or English-speaking staff, this place
has plenty to offer beer-lovers and casual beer drinkers alike. The
balanced brews are concocted to the highest possible standards,
while the happy hours are second to none.

Its been a barn-burner of a year for Saigons top vote-getter MOB


Beer Club, about the classiest beer club on the block, if you ignore
the cheeky anagram (which, to be fair, is credited as Make it Or
Break it in the official explanation). Housed in a restored French
mansion dating to the 1920s the best restoration job Ive seen in
this city, quipped one architect the pours are some of the best
youll find, the atmosphere is methodically distinct and the, erm,
lavabo is usually spotless.
Vuvuzela the original follows closely behind, its year-plus
tenure helming the phenomenon not yet over. Straddling the country
with locations as far off as Vinh City not to mention Hanoi, where
it topped our judges poll it doubles as a metaphor for the whole
beer club phenomenon. Like its namesake, it might have seemed like
a fad at first, but its now wormed its way into our hearts.
Tied with Vuvuzela is the true, pre-beer club original, Hoa Vien

Hanoi

THE

2014
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IN

PLACE

WORDIES
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TOP

kay, so we occasionally hype stuff up a bit, but damn 2014 was good to us live
music fans. And it wasnt so much the periodic thrill of seeing live acts like The
Lemonheads and Jagwar Ma come through that got us excited for the future,
but rather seeing venues like Cargo Bar/Q4 come into their own, and festivals
like ASEAN Fest figure out their formula with hosting by the versatile American Club
playing a big part.
So you know the usual suspects: in Ho Chi Minh City, head to Acoustic if youre looking
for virtuosic covers in Hanoi its Rockstore. For a touch of the weird, Saigon Outcast is a
fitting backdrop in the southern city, while Madake mixes it up in the north. CAMA ATK and
Hanoi Rock City handle the big draws, and have for years, while Cargo is finally realising the
potential crowds it was built for (1,100 paid entry to the Run For Cover: Halloween Party a
local band showcase!). 2014 debutantes Saigon Ranger and Eden Hanoi are ones to watch.
But local tastes for live music are growing, outpacing the ambitions of yesteryear, couching
mega-concerts in quirky outdoor concepts. Its no longer if you build it, they will come
theyve come, and those live music cravings weve had forever are finally being satisfied.

VIE T N A M

THE TOP PLACES TO SEE LIVE


MUSIC IN 2015

U
LIV E M

THE

GU

ES

Tim Doling

2014

DS

WORDIES
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TJ
U D G E AWA

Ho Chi Minh Citys Five Most


Endangered Buildings
While the fate of Hanois built heritage
has been closely monitored, in recent
years a large number of Ho Chi Minh
Citys historic buildings have been
systematically demolished in the name
of economic development. We asked
local historian Tim Doling to put
together a list of the top five historic
buildings currently under threat of
destruction.

District 1 Peoples Committee


Building

45-47 Le Duan, Q1
Last month it was announced that the
former Cercle des Officiers (Officers
Mess) of 1876 is to be demolished to
make way for a new high-rise.

Phuong Nam Mansion

110-112 Vo Van Tan, Q3


This imposing old mansion is
currently on the market for US$35
million (VND750 billion) and
at that price, its obvious that only
demolition and reconstruction as a
tower block will offer prospective
buyers a big enough return on their
investment.

WHAT
YOU
SAY

What did we miss? We asked seven


guest judges in Hanoi and Ho Chi
Minh City to tell us their thoughts.

The Top Graffiti Walls In Saigon


An Oi aka Trane owned the first
graffiti supply shop in Saigon, and his
support has kept the nascent scene
evolving. We asked him a hard one
most are illegal and some spots are hard
to find, bro.

could be better, right? Unfortunately its


been banned because of people coming
here for photos, and leaving a mess after.
You can also buy spray cans from the shop
of mine nearby, and try the best French
baguette I have ever known at Lamie.

Reborn

Saigon Outcast

Duong 21, Go Vap


This place is hidden away in a
neighbourhood where everyone is
highly supportive of the wall, for eight
years already. This place is where I first
met all the real writers, in a party named
Style Jam.

Hem 15B Le Thanh Ton, Q1

This wall is also hidden in an alleyway


surrounded by lots of restaurants, and its
located right in the centre of Saigon. What

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2


Saigon Outcast is one spot where
everyone loves graffiti. Nice place, cool
people and funny staff. Youre
free to do whatever you
want, with a half-pipe
for skating, big venue
for chilling, oldschool table football
and of course a big
wall for everyone
who loves painting.

An Oi

Catinat Building

Cnr. Dong Khoi and Ly Tu Trong, Q1


Located on so-called Gold Land, this
1927 Art Deco apartment block will
soon be cleared to make way for more
luxury hotels and office buildings.

273 Dien Bien Phu, Q3

The Department of Science and


Technology recently announced their
intention to build a new technology
centre in place of this 1920s French
mansion, once the residence of the
Swiss Consul to Cochinchina.

159-161 Ly Tu Trong, Q1

Will the former Secrtariat Gnral


du Gouvernement building (1888)
be demolished, or can its facade be
incorporated into the design of the
new 14-storey Government Centre
to be built immediately behind the
Peoples Committee building? The
jurys still out on that one.

88 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

The Top Five Hangover Spots in Saigon


The face behind late-night cocktail and
lounge bar Last Call, Lola Guimond
knows all about hangovers. Im going
to start with a quick drinkers tip. Take
two Silymarin pills before bed (or in the
morning if you forget). This helps your
liver detox faster. Also drink coconut
water.
If that doesnt work, here are some spots
for some light relief.

cucumber strips on your face and wash


your feet, too. You dont leave greasy like
in other massage places, just ready to hit
the town.

OMG

206B Nguyen Trai, Q1


Half-and-half hotpot (half spicy, half
savoury), order a bit of meat and a ton of
veggies. Great dipping sauce too!

15-17-19, Nguyen An Ninh, Q1


A simple glass of wine and
take in the view.

137 Foot Massage


137 Ham Nghi, Q1
Private room for
two, 90-minute
massages. They lay

Lola Guimond

FAME Nails

45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1


Head to toe treatment or just mani and
pedi in the massage chair.

Pot & Bone Hong Kong Hot Pot

Last Call

1st Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1


Try the Devils Breath Martini chilliinfused tequila with hydrating vegetable
juices and chilli salt.

The Best Places to Drink into the Early Hours in Hanoi


The face and name behind Maos Red
Lounge, and one of the best-known players
on Hanois nightlife scene, when it comes
to drinking after hours, Luong Van Mao is
an old hand.
Here are his recommendations for
taking your drinking in the capital past
midnight.

From 11pm to 12.30am

Coach House, 37 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem


Its famous for good cocktails like
Margaritas, White Russians or Bloody
Marys, and at super cheap prices!

From 12.30am to 2am

Tet Bar, 2B Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem

It totally makes my day with some mixed


drinks here such as the Malibu orange or
amaretto cranberry, or for heavier stuff, I go
with several glasses of gin and tonic.

From 2am onward

Ras Tama, 7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho; Tay Tap, No.


20 Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
or sometimes Bomba Latina, 46 Ngo Huyen,
Hoan Kiem
I really like these bars
because they have
great drinks, open
late and most
people speak
English here. And
the music is great!

Luong Van Mao


The Best Bands Who Have Played in Hanoi
Each year, Hanois music scene gets
stronger, as the capital edges its way onto
the tours of international artists. Weve
seen a real boom in quality music in the
last couple of years and 2014 was no
exception.
Nick Greenfield is one of the faces
behind music collective, CAMA. Here are
his highlights.

The Love Junkies

One of Australias hottest new acts, these


fuzz-rockers ripped a sonic hole in Hanois
heart this May. This was rock n roll done
right.

Lydmor

Described as a one-woman aural


explosion, Dane Lydmor stopped our
hearts with an hour-long show in October.
This was raw and melodic. Definitely one
of our unmissables.

Regurgitator

20 years after their debut


and seminal album,
Aussie electro punks
Regurgitator still
rock like theyre
teenagers. #Solid.

Le Cat Trong Ly

Perhaps Vietnams

most singular young talent, singersongwriter Le Cat Trong Ly continues to


break hearts every time she visits Hanoi.
Ours included.

Anchorsong

One man and his machines. Tokyo/


London beatsmith Anchorsong proved
button-pushers can be as vital as any rock
band.

Blue Hawaii

What better way to end a Hanoi summer


than with the sun-kissed electro pop of
Montreal duo Blue Hawaii? Soaring vocals,
driving beats.

Say Oms

Their time in Vietnam was too short, but


damn it was sweet. These homegrown
heros gave Hanoi their all in their
penultimate performance at CAMA ATK
in June.

Ngot

Fuzzy. Indie. Goodness. Student favourites


Ngot proved Vietnam is about more than
metal. One to watch in 2015.

The Offensive

These expat scene stalwarts headed


Hanois punk resurgence in 2014. Loud,
raw, raucous. #Boom.

George Burchett
The Best Bia Hoi in Hanoi
An artist and perhaps one of only a
handful of Caucasians born in Hanoi
during the war era, George Burchett
just loves his bia hoi. Heres his pick
of where to go to get your favourite
tipple.

Bia Hoi 68

68 Quang An, Tay Ho


Great location, great food, friendly
service and a good vibe.

Truc Bach Bia Hoi

1 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh


My introduction to bia hoi, it was my bia
hoi of choice during my first year back in
Hanoi. Good food I particularly like
the grilled mackerel and a popular
place. Great location, too. Right on Truc
Bach Lake overlooking the exact spot
where John McCain landed when his
plane was shot down.

Bia Hoi Hanoi

15 Yen Phu, Tay Ho


Good food and atmosphere. A great
place to watch the traffic on Yen Phu.

Bia Hoi Thanh Nien

Opposite Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba


Dinh
This is where I go with my
Vietnamese artist friends and kung fu
class for fresh bia hoi.

Quan Bia Hoi Ha Noi

19C Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh


Huge bia hoi with good food and
of course beer. Famous for its duck
hotpot. The place where Hanois film
industry crowd hangs out.

Nick Greenfield
The Best Hamburgers in Hanoi
The general manager of the Press Club,
together with friend and colleague Darren
Gall, Kurt Walter has been doing the
rounds of Hanois burgers.
A long-term resident of the capital with
a nose for the finer things in life, according
to Kurt, the best burgers in Hanoi can be
found at El Gaucho (11 Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem); JW Marriott (8 Do Duc Duc, Me

Tri, Tu Liem); Moose & Roo Pub & Grill


(42 Ma May, Hoan Kiem); Tracys Sports
Pub (40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho); and of course
Press Club (corner of 12 Ly Dao Thanh
and 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem).
Word is hoping to do a Best Burgers in
Hanoi piece in the next couple of months. So,
will the results match up?
Stay tuned.

Kurt Walter
wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 89

THE TOP DESTINATIONS


IN VIETNAM

Phu Quoc

Six Senses in Con Dao

Dalat

Hemp-weaving Hmong in Ha Giang

hoosing top holiday destinations


by committee is like travelling
with a big group it isnt easy.
It often comes down to ones own
particular travelling experience. While
putting normal life at arms length and
getting close to nature matters for some,
for others its comfort and ease of access.
And for our judges coming from two ends
of Vietnam Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
City there is another thing that matters:
the proximity to the cities that they now
call home. Although they share a few
similarities, there are also many differences.

The Consensus Picks

Hoi An

According to our judges, the consensus


number one destination in Vietnam is Hoi
An. With beautiful, century-old yellow
houses lying alongside peaceful narrow
streets, this old riverside town attracts

90 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

tourists by the busload.


A hub for regional trade dating back
to the 15th century, as a port town Hoi
An once attracted boats and traders from
many parts of the world, resulting in its
unique mix of historic architecture a
blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese
and European. Although the place
became something of a tourist trap after
its recognition as a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 1999, its still an interesting
destination for anyone who is willing to
stick around and absorb the local life,
enjoy the beaches nearby or have some
tailoring done at a bargain price.

Phu Quoc

Scoring high on both southern and northern


lists, Vietnams largest island is appreciated
for its mix of isolated and well-trodden
beaches, rugged mountains, dozens of
bays, fishing villages, excellent pepper and
countless nuoc mam-making households.

With things to see at every turn, hiring a


motorbike and getting a map is a great way
to discover the island.

Sapa

The last common pick, Sapa made it to


third on the northern list and fourth on the
southern one. No longer the undiscovered
secret that it was in the 1990s, the rich
opportunities for treks, homestays and,
on clear days, the beautiful panoramas of the
surrounding valleys and Mount Fansipan
can still bring visitors unforgettable
experiences. Skip the aggressive hawkers for
the vibrant morning markets, or better yet,
head into the mountains and get to know a
very unique side to Vietnam.

Agree to Disagree

Hanoi Loves Hue and Ha Giang

While we may have a slight bias here in

2014

NA

DE

ST

VI
IN A
TIO N S IN

ET

TOP

WORDIES

THE

Hue

Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

The Judges
Ha Giang

our September issue we described Ha Giang


at the most beautiful place in Vietnam
the northern contingent departed from the
southerners on their last two entries into the
Top 5.
Straddling the beautiful Perfume River, Hue
was once the seat of power for the Nguyen
lords, the last feudal dynasty in Vietnam.
The complex of tombs, pagodas and palaces
throughout this city and its surrounds are a
perfect fit for someone into historic attractions
or a space to get some well-deserved quiet. If
you can get away from the hawkers, that is.
Although its not a spot for vibrant nightlife,
with great food, great places to stay and the
beauty of the central citadel to its credit, Hue
was the number two destination among Hanoibased judges.
Lying in the northernmost part of Vietnam
near the Chinese border, Ha Giang is far more
challenging to get to than the other destinations
nominated. But that also means the place
remains spectacularly untouched. As its often

An Bang Beach in Hoi An

said, Its the journey, not the destination. And


this is particularly true in one of the countrys
best places for motorbiking and trekking. Youll
see a world of breathtaking mountains, soaring
rice terraces and diverse ethnic cultures along
the way.

Saigon Loves Southern Getaways

Although the judges in Ho Chi Minh City


agreed with Hanoi on Hoi An, Phu Quoc and
Sapa, Dalat and Con Dao surpassed Hue
and Ha Giang by a fair margin to get into the
southern Top 5.
While Dalat charms explorers with its
cool air, stunning mountain scenery and
French-era villas, the wildness of the Con
Dao archipelago is a gem for holiday seekers
thanks to its steep coastline, rocky hills,
rugged beaches, jungle, isolated islands and
sweeping coves. Once Vietnams answer to
Alcatraz, Con Dao also boasts the remains of
a French-built prison, a number of crumbling
forts and colonial-era villas.

A special thanks to our judges for voting


for their favourite restaurants, bars, cafes,
nightclubs, beer clubs and destinations in
Vietnam.

Aili Ramberg, Alex Falter, Andrew Souto, Aron


Szabo, Bien Nguyen, Brad Segal, Bryon
Ramsey-Leonard Rudd, Cyprien Pervlosi,
Damian Kilroy, Dan Bi Mong, Darren Gall,
Darren Scharzberg, David Appleton, Debajit
Banerjee, Dinh Q Le, Doan Phuong Ha,
Dominic Scriven, Don Berger, Edge Pamute,
Emmanuel Rudzitsky, Fred Wissink, Gabriele
Fanni, Giang Thy, Hanh Ngoan, Hisui
Kobayashi, Jase Nguyen, Jeff Puchalski,
Jeremie Courivault, Jeremy Wellard, Jody
O' Dea, Josh Zukas, Julian Talbot, Julien
Tavagnutti, Lawrence Boal, Linh Nguyen,
Linh Phan, Linh Tran, Lola Guimond,
Ludovic Tran, Marilyn Drinkwater, Mark
Rowland, Matt Underwood, Nada Offner,
Nguyen The Son, Nicola Connolly, Richard
Burrage, Richard Frot, Rose Arnold, Sandip
Rakhit, Shane Dillon, Thao Bach, Thuan
Nguyen, Timen Swijtink, Tom Nguyen,
Tracey Lister, Tram Vu, Tri Minh, Vivek
Chaudary, Vu Nhat Tan and Zoe Butt.

insider

INSIDER

NATIONAL

Beneath the Wrapper:


A Journey Into
Vietnams Cocoa Revival
From the cocoa plantations of southern
Vietnam via its modest Ho Chi Minh City
factory, Marou chocolate has made its way
onto the shelves of some of the finest stores in the
world. Simon Stanley and Francis Xavier rode out
to the edge of Nam Cat Tien National Park to meet
the farmers supplying the countrys only
bean-to-bar producer

92 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 93

ow was the trip? asks


my apartment buildings
manager, as I stumble
through the lobby doors
fresh from the road, my two-day-old
clothes hanging shabby and mudspattered. A black smear below my eyes
marks the gap between my facemask and
visor. After many hours in the saddle I
stagger towards him, dropping my helmet
and keys onto the reception counter
along with three second-hand LaVie
bottles. What is that? he asks, eyeing the
suspicious golden liquid within.
That, I reply, is chocolate wine.
Chocolate wine?
Its a long story.

The Rebirth of
Vietnamese Chocolate
In 2011, Vincent Mourou and Samuel Maruta
a pair of French expats living in Ho Chi
Minh City came back from a trip out of
the city with a small sack of cocoa beans
and an idea. What started as an evening of
Google-assisted experiments on Samuels
kitchen table soon became Marou Chocolate,
today an award-winning range of singlesource gourmet bars grown and produced
entirely in Vietnam and sold in 25 countries
worldwide.
Using nothing more than cocoa, cocoa
butter and sugar, their products are a return
to artisanal chocolate making traditions.
Our process is simple, explained Vincent
when I met the pair at their factory in Thu
Duc before our expedition. We like to say
that we find the taste at the farm. Were not
magicians and we dont want to be. Its a lot
more fun to find great cocoa.

94 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

And thats exactly what they did, setting


out into the countryside on scooters in
search of Vietnams elusive cocoa farmers.
But through their adventures, Marou have
created more than just good chocolate.
Theyre paving the way for the future of the
industry.
Introduced to Vietnam by the French in
the late 1800s, cocoa was quickly abandoned
in favour of more profitable crops like
coffee and rubber. Then came a short but
doomed revival in the 1980s following
investment from the USSR, then Vietnams
biggest trading partner. With the collapse
of communism in Eastern Europe, the
Russian buyers vanished and the trees were
destroyed. And now, Marou is heralding the
latest chapter in Vietnams chocolate-making
history.
Samuel explains: Its a story that restarts
about 15 years ago. 70 percent of cocoa was
coming from two countries in West Africa
Ivory Coast and Ghana. The big buyers
wanted to release this stranglehold, so they
sought new places to plant cocoa.
Enter some big-name organisations like
the WWF and USAid, and with help from
the Vietnamese government the humble
cocoa tree reappeared. Third time lucky? Yes
and no.
After a five-hour ride to Lam Dong
Province, trailing Marous agronomist, taste
analyst and tropical agriculture and cocoa
expert Alexandre Parizel, I meet Doai, a
cashew, jackfruit and durian farmer since
1987. When an economic development NGO
arrived in 2009 to reintroduce cocoa, he
took full advantage of the plants, tools and
training on offer.
Was it not a huge risk, to make such a

change from traditional crops to something


relatively unknown?
Not really, says Doai. Cocoa is an
intercrop. It can grow below my existing
fruit trees.
Hoa has been a ranger for Nam Cat Tien
National Park for 27 years. He was heavily
involved in the VND1.5 billion WWF project
in 2007 to plant cocoa and protect the parks
buffer zone at a time when many farmers
were cutting back the forest for coffee trees.
However, the project reached its inevitable
conclusion and the inexperienced cocoa
farmers were left to fend for themselves.
Now we are facing a lot of difficulties,
he explains. The cocoa trees planted by
the WWF are producing less-than-normal
quantities and farmers are finding it difficult
not to cut them down and revert to other
crops.

Raising Standards
Were it not for Marou, such a fate may have
befallen Toan. From his two-hectare field in
Dong Nai, he has been growing cocoa since
2010 as well as fermenting his own harvest
a process vital to the quality, flavour and
value of the beans.
When Marou first came here, Toan says,
they checked the fermented beans and said
that the quality was not right, so I had to
sell to other buyers at a much lower price.
When they came back, Marou helped me
with the fermentation process. They showed
me how to monitor the timings and check
temperatures so I could sell good beans to
them.
With Alexandres supervision, Toan was
able to increase the value of his harvest by
over 30 percent in just two months.

Our process is
simple, explained
Vincent Mourou. We
like to say that we find
the taste at the farm.
Were not magicians
and we dont want to
be. Its a lot more fun
to find great cocoa

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 95

I begin to sense more than just a conventional buyer-seller relationship


at work here, all of whom are known to the company by name.
There is a connection there, a responsibility

96 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Across all five provinces supplying


Marou, Alexandre is constantly on the move,
rolling out his expertise and advocating
Marous quality over quantity approach
to secure the crops future in a market still
dominated by mass producers like Ivory
Coast. Whether theyre making regular visits
to monitor a farmers round of fermentation,
or financing a suite of improved drying
racks, it seems Marous assistance knows
no bounds. We just want the best quality
beans, says Alexandre, and were prepared
to pay a lot more to get them. As Vincent
told me before we went on our trip, Its a
win-win situation.
Today, using a specially made guillotine,
Alexandre selects 50 beans from Mr. Toans
latest offering, a wonderfully aromatic bag
slumped on the veranda of his family home.
With a satisfying crunch, the beans are
quickly dissected, the guillotine opened and
Alexandre gets to work. I inspect every bag
of beans we purchase, he says. For aroma,
for fermentation and for flavour.
Every bag? I ask.
Every bag.
Its little wonder that the tanned 24-yearold from Strasbourg has clocked up 1,800km
on his dusty Suzuki in the last three weeks
alone.
Fermentation is not an exact science,
however. Normally, we dont take the beans
if less than 85 percent are fermented. Many
companies will accept 70 to 75 percent, so
at 78 percent, this bag is still very good. So
we want to form a partnership with another
buyer, to ensure that Mr. Toan can always
sell 100 percent of his beans.
I begin to sense more than just a
conventional buyer-seller relationship at
work here, all of whom are known to the
company by name. There is a connection
there, a responsibility.

Spreading the Wealth


Squeezed from the sweet pulp of the fruit,
we sip dewy glasses of cocoa juice in
Toans living room. I swirl the cocoa juice
in my glass. It tastes like guanabana,
says Francis. Im thinking mangosteen.
Surprisingly it tastes nothing like chocolate.
If he has cocoa juice, I ask, does he
have cocoa wine?
Id read about this homemade elixir
during my research and couldnt leave
without trying it. Not today, says Thuong.
Sold out.
We leave empty-handed, but at the next
farm we strike gold. Rich and flavoursome
and served ice-cold 20 percent alcohol
maybe Im reminded of something
between port and schnapps.
The next product in Marous lineup?
Perhaps not. But with praise for its chocolate
arriving from all over the world and a recent
endorsement from Michelin Star chef Michel
Roux, Marou wont be going anywhere but
up, and taking a lot of happy farmers with
them.
Marou Chocolate is available in stores across
Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. For more info, go
to marouchocolate.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 97

insider
INSIDER

HANOI

Zone 9: One Year On


One year after Zone 9 shut its doors, David Mann went in search of the precincts
former tenants to see what theyre up to now. Photos by David Harris and Julie Vola

Work Room Four

here was a palpable excitement


surrounding Zone 9 that was felt far
and wide across Hanois cultural and
artistic communities. Originally a
disused pharmaceutical factory in Hanois
French Quarter, the transformation of Zone
9 quickly made it the citys go-to cultural
precinct.
It was home to underground music
venues that attracted performance artists
and well-regarded musicians, including
acts from places as far afield as Europe.
Art-lovers strolled through galleries curated
by emerging Vietnamese artists, while
fashionistas browsed its quirky boutiques.
With Hanoi being a place where venues
famously shut down when the clock strikes
twelve, Zone 9 offered nightlife that a city of
millions had been crying out for. Not only

98 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

did it have hip restaurants, but revellers


could dance under Barbetta Republics
twirling lights or sip Tadiotos fusion
cocktails. Even The Economist reported on
how Zone 9 pulsed with energy every night
of the week.
It was such a big surprise in Hanoi
because they hadnt had anything like that
before, says Claire Driscoll, who co-founded
with her partner, Dorian Gibb, the art gallery
and design consultancy, Work Room Four.
Comparisons were soon made with
Beijings famous Zone 798, but ultimately
these proved premature; after only six
months of being opening, Zone 9s meteoric
rise was cut abruptly short in December 2013.
But for Zone 9s most popular tenants, this
was not the end. The precincts closure made
them more determined than ever before to

inspire the public through contemporary art


and culture.

Tadioto
After putting so much energy into the
popular Tadioto bar, owner and operator
Nguyen Qui Duc had no plans to reinvest in
hospitality after the precinct closed.
But sometimes an entrepreneurial and
adventurous flame can be hard to extinguish,
and so it was when Duc came across a perfect
space near the Hanoi Opera House. In early
2014, the new Tadioto opened its doors.
To be fair, this is a far more pretentious
location than an old factory with dubious
safety standards. But there is also no doubt
that the surrounding business and luxuryshopping district had been crying out for a
cool and chic venue where you could settle

Tadioto

down with a cocktail or a glass of wine after


a busy working week.
For Duc, this new clientele in addition
to the loyal admirers from the old premises
means this Tadioto has been his most
successful venture to date.
While the old Tadioto was officially
registered as a design studio, the latest
venture is most definitely a bar and caf.
The new venue has retained its Bohemian
vibe and even brings with it a collection of
premium whiskies. But Duc also has plans
to soon begin hosting poetry readings and
performance art shows.

Work Room Four


Looking out at Hanoi from their wall-toceiling glass studio near Ciputra, Work
Room Fours Claire Driscoll explains how
she and husband Dorian Gibb have come
a long way since setting up their artistic
consultancy in Zone 9 last year.
Zone 9 gave us the publicity and the
standing to help people know what we were
doing super fast almost overnight, says
Claire.
You had all these people coming through
and visiting and being exposed to your work
and thats how a lot of people found us. We
wouldnt be here at all without Zone 9.

That leg-up from Zone 9 has now


catapulted Work Room Four into the
forefront of some of Vietnams most exciting
new projects, including the construction of
Vietnams newest and hippest startup space.
Weve been asked to fit out the space
from design to implementation for the
Vietnam Silicon Valley project, which will be
an incubator for new startups in Vietnam,
says Dorian.
Work Room Four is also doing its
own share of talent incubation through
its much larger artists space, capable of
hosting exhibitions, art classes and even art
performances for emerging artists. The pair
is also collaborating on an art fair with caf
gallery Manzi at the beginning of December.

Nha San Collective


This gallery-cum-artist space played a
significant part in Zone 9s cultural impact
by nurturing younger artists through
a collective approach to exhibitions,
workshops and classes.
But its relocation to the centre of the
Old Quarter has brought its fair share of
challenges.
Before we relied more on the space in
Zone 9 to deliver an engaged audience who
visited the other galleries. Now we have to

Zone 9 gave us
the publicity and the
standing to help people
know what we were
doing super fast
almost overnight. You
had all these people
coming through and
visiting and thats
how a lot of people
found us

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 99

Walking through [X98], the similarities


with Zone 9 are overwhelming. Simple
yet innovative architecture, distinctively
designed boutiques and artistic dcor
are already luring the next cohort of
scenesters

reach out and bring them to us, says Nha


San manager, Le Thuan Uyen.
The need for community outreach has
also prompted Nha San Collective to build
a presence online and through mainstream
media, with the first exhibition being
mentioned in more than 10 news articles
online. Were really focusing on the power
of the internet and social media to broaden
our audience and showcase our work,
which is also really important for archiving
as well, says Uyen.
The Nha San Collective has already
hosted its first exhibition, The Clouds Will
Tell, at its new location. A second exhibition
entitled LATCAFF FRACTAL opened at the
end of November and will run until Dec. 14.
Since moving into this space, its almost
as if our programme has been busier than
its ever been. And weve already planned
what were doing next year.

Barbetta Centre

Top: Nha San Collective


Bottom: Bar betta
Right-hand page: X98

Much like the former Zone 9 space, the


new Barbetta Centre shares some of its
walls with funky boutiques and trendy
galleries, including Nha San Collective and
Art Vietnam. But unlike Barbetta Republic,
the once thumping dance floor that drew
hundreds of revellers every weekend, the
new space also comes with a restaurant on
the ground floor.
Master Chef Vietnam judge Pham Tuan
Hai oversees this kitchen, which dishes up
bistro fare at reasonable prices, whether
its the marinated Australian steak with
kimchi and gochujang sauce (VND186,000)
or the tasty apple crumble (VND45,000).
As expected, the public has responded
emphatically to this more substantial and
central reincarnation of Barbetta Republic,
which was one of the most mourned
venues from Zone 9s closure.
As owner Tran Vu Hai puts it in a recent
interview, normally you want to go
somewhere for drinks after eating. Here,
you just have to walk up the stairs. That
people do indeed, and every weekend
there is a slow but steady trickle of patrons
up the stairs to the thumping open dance
floor.
With help from BBR partner Pham Hong
Cuong, the pair has recreated the retroindustrial atmosphere of Zone 9, most
notably through the same old-school dcor,
recycled materials and unpredictable
soundtrack that made BBR so popular.
For now, it seems to have been
successful in attracting the scenesters of
Zone 9, not least because of its convenient
location in the centre of the Old Quarter.
While this iteration of Barbetta is a slight
way off receiving the same cult status as
its predecessor, we hear there may be more
Barbettas on the horizon.

X98
Opening its doors as recently as October
2014, X98, a once-thriving entertainment and
arts venue in Zone 9, has reemerged bearing
a striking resemblance to its forbearer.

100 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Zone 9 are overwhelming. Simple yet


innovative architecture, distinctively
designed boutiques and artistic dcor are
already luring the next cohort of scenesters.
One important difference, perhaps, is X98s
alleged focus on safety. With many a rusty
stairwell in sight, were keeping our fingers
crossed.
The facility is also not just for play. Artist
workshops and studios appear in various
stages of completion. There is a definite
whiff of optimism in the air, hope that the
opportunities and expression of Zone 9 will
recreate themselves here.

New Beginnings

Tucked away down in Hoang Cau, the


new venue occupies five conjoined blocks
in an abandoned packaging factory built in
the 1960s.
A project of one of Zone 9s co-founders,
the new X98 has already kicked the word-ofmouth reel into full gear. The spaces peeling
walls, industrial layout and upwards of 15
tenants, including a range of boutiques and
cafes, have already led to whispers that a
new Zone 9 has formed.
Walking through, the similarities with

As Work Room Fours Claire Driscoll told


me back in their studio, only time will tell
whether another Zone 9 will take shape
and if it will remain committed to artistic
expression.
By the end there werent many artists
working there even though it was supposed
to attract the community with cheap rent
and workspaces. There werent as many
people doing the creative things wed
initially hoped for.
Nonetheless, Driscoll says that this has
seen artistic ventures reemerge with a
stronger enthusiasm to cultivate young
artists and entrepreneurs.
When it finished we had to make a
decision, she says. We either wouldnt do
this anymore or we had to just keep going.
Its not about recreating Zone 9. Its
about creating something different that
next big thing.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 101

insider

INSIDER

HCMC

Murder on the
Red Carpet
At a swanky soire, Niko Savvas uses his reporter instincts to expose a killer. Photos by Francis Xavier

ve never been murdered before. Ive


never even seen somebody else get
murdered. This isnt a complaint most
people would probably be content to go
through life without being murdered (or
murdering someone else, for that matter).
Unless there were prizes, of course, and
they got to dress up.
A few months ago, editor Nick asked me
if Id be interested in covering the Saigon
Murder Mystery gala around Halloween.
I agreed, mostly because I love costume
parties that dont involve zombies, but
also because I occasionally wonder what it
would be like to murder someone without
a whole bunch of legal consequences.
If you think that sounds weird, youre
right. But have you ever driven down Cach
Mang Thang Tam in the late afternoon?
Try it, and then tell me youve never
contemplated murder.
Given the chance to indulge my
homicidal tendencies without actually
homiciding anybody, I took it. Several days
later an email appeared in my inbox from
a Mr. Tat Lay, who introduced himself as
the creator of Saigon Murder Mysteries.
He explained this months theme was an
Oscar awards party. His email was polite,
informative and extremely well written. I
ignored most of it and went straight for the
character card attachment.

102 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Getting into Character


Culled from one of murder mystery
supplier Night of Mysterys download
packages, the Lights! Camera! MURDER!
setup we were following was a world unto
itself, with a bit of backstory to read up on.
Much to my disappointment, my
character was not a knife-wielding
Charles Manson type, but rather a lowly
entertainment reporter by the name of
Joe Svenson. It looked like I wouldnt be
murdering anyone after all.
Instead, according to the character
card, I was supposed to interview two
members of a failed boy band, a couple of
teen starlets and the husband of a famous
actress.
Their names reminded me of characters
from the game Clue Hunter Starr, Brady
Comeback, Mario Talent. I wondered how
important any of them were.
Luckily, the email attachment also
included a back page gossip column
about the event. Under the heading of
Vanity Affairs Short List, I found a brief
description of each major character. A
sample:
T. Redd Aspiring rap artist. The exhusband of Princess Pop, T. Redd knows how
to use his connections to get what he wants out
of life, despite his lack of talent.
Joe Svenson didnt make the short list,

Most people would probably


be content to go through life
without being murdered. Unless
there were prizes, of course,
and they got to dress up

Photo by Niko Savvas

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 103

but most of my interviewees did. From


their bios, it was clear these people were a
bunch of backstabbing, duplicitous cads. I
couldnt wait to meet them.

Dressed to Kill
If I was to have any hope of scoring a juicy
quote, however, I needed to act (and look)
the part. The name didnt give me much to
work with. Joe Svenson sounded like the
name of a lumberjack or a semi-successful
used vacuum salesman.
My character card suggested I dress in
my most fashion-forward designer outfit,
which was slightly more helpful than
saying wear clothes, but not by much. So
I was on my own.
At first I thought of going as a Jazz
Age news reporter complete with fedora,
suspenders and over-caffeinated nasal voice.
Lookee here see, whats the big idea with
this new talkie in the works? Which choice
dame is gonna get the lead? Is some blind
tiger slinging suds on the side? Poppycock!
Horsefeathers! Calvin Coolidge!
Then I realised this would probably get
tiring after five minutes.
I decided to play it Miami Vice style,
figuring coked out paparazzi slimeball
would be a more sustainable persona. For
my costume I wore a white linen suit over
a neon sky blue shirt, with some matching
ear studs and a turquoise ring. A giant
gold chain with a lions head rounded out
the ensemble. The outfit could have been
stolen from a Cuban drug lords closet.

104 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Many of my fellow guests took


their roles so seriously that they
wandered off mid-sentence when it
became clear that I couldnt benefit
them in any way
table, each bearing the name of a different
character. I found the one reading Joe
Svenson and tore it open. Stuffed inside
were a wad of fake money and a list of
Dial M for Murderousness
objectives for the evening. I stood beneath
The location was kept secret until a few
the chandelier and tried to memorise the
days before the event. Then, I received an
names of people I was supposed to bribe,
email with exhaustive directions to the Fan schmooze and extort.
Club at Vista Apartments in District 2. The
directions were so detailed because, as the A Chance Encounter
A handsome, well-dressed man
message explained, 90% of [those] who
approached me. He was Tat Lay, the
visit the Vista get lost.
architect of Saigon Murder Mysteries.
90 percent might have been generous.
His posh British accent was so elegant I
When we finally arrived, the Murder
wondered if he was already in character.
Mystery was just getting started.
He had time to answer a few of my
The lights were dim and people in
questions before his minions dragged him
eveningwear floated around the large,
empty room. Soft music played ominously away.
This is our third Saigon Murder
in the background and glass bottles
Mystery, he said. The first two were
twinkled behind the bar.
so popular that we had to add more
Rows of envelopes sat on a long white
After accessorizing with a little
notebook and camera bag, Joe Svenson
was ready for the red carpet.

characters this time. This is a unique


experience in Saigon and spots fill up
fast. Weve actually had to turn people
away.
I saw what he meant the room was
beginning to fill with people. Most of them
were making a mad rush to cash in their
complimentary drink vouchers at the bar. I
excused myself and joined the crowd.
As it turned out, the complimentary
drink choices were a warm bottle of San
Miguel beer or a warm bottle of San
Miguel beer with ice. Like most guests, I
ended up grabbing my wallet and paying
for a glass of wine. The bar girl in her blue
mini-dress did not look pleased.
Then the music swelled, and the Murder
Mystery began.

Wheeling and Dealing


According to my list of objectives, I was
supposed to pump several B-listers for
gossip about an upcoming blockbuster,
A Fallen Angel. This proved much more
difficult than I imagined, because Joe
Svenson was a nobody.
Each time I tried to lure someone into
conversation, the exchange lasted less
than a minute before he or she realised
how utterly unimportant I was. I admired
their commitment to staying in character
many of my fellow guests took their
roles so seriously that they wandered off
mid-sentence when it became clear that I
couldnt benefit them in any way.
So I found solace at the bar,
drinking overpriced Pinot Grigio and
commiserating with other bottom-feeders.
A dolled-up production assistant named
Annette Lorde summarised our feelings
perfectly.
Its exactly like a real Hollywood
party! I feel nervous and socially awkward
and nobody wants to talk to me. But its
exciting.

Le Petit Mort
At some point in the night a person got
murdered, the evidence was examined,
and the murderer was revealed. Joe
Svenson didnt pay much attention to any
of this. Instead he slunk around the room
with his camera, snapping scandalous
cleavage shots and eavesdropping on
people who were more important than
him.
He mercilessly critiqued the sartorial
faux pas of his fellow guests. He bemoaned
his lack of industry connections. He
unsuccessfully flirted with a woman twice
his age and weight. He almost threw up
on the sidewalk. He found himself outside
McDonalds at 3am, wallowing in shame
and Chicken McNuggets.
He had to admit that Annette Lorde was
right. It was exactly like a real Hollywood
party.
To read more about the parties, check
facebook.com/mysteriesinsaigon. The next
party, Terror in a Toga, will take place in
Saigons District 7 on Friday Dec. 19

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 105

Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Crystal Jade Palace


Quality Chinese restaurants in the capital are a rarity.
Could JW Marriotts offering fill a gap? Our anonymous food reviewer
finds out. Photos by Julie Vola

tationed in the outlying


district of My Dinh,
Crystal Jade Palace
isnt exactly the easiest
restaurant to get to. But pulling up
to the imposing faade of the JW
Marriott, you instantly realise this
is not your ordinary dim sum joint.
The new Hanoi branch is barely
12 months old and joins a renowned
global empire of more than 120
Crystal Jade Palaces, dishing up
Cantonese and Teochew cuisine.
Although the menu has widened
in recent years to include authentic
Korean, the chain is famous for
its awe-inspiring spread of both
traditional and contemporary
Chinese fare.

Dim Sum and Duck


Having arrived at lunchtime, the
polished wooden tables were already
buzzing with business clientele
eager to make the most of the hotels
reasonably priced (and lunchtimeonly) dim sum menu. Enticed by
the intoxicating aroma of fresh
dumplings, we opted for batches of
steamed minced pork and radish
dumplings (VND48,000), steamed
minced pork with mushroom
dumplings (VND82,000), and deepfried radish pastry (VND55,000).
This proved to be a good
move, as within minutes we were

presented with three piping hot


bamboo steamers. Dipped in the
accompanying sweet bean sauce, each
dumpling delivered a tasty mouthful
of rich, textured flavours, while the
sweetness of the barbecued pork
lingered pleasantly on our palettes.
Returning to the glossy menus, we
marvelled at the illustrations before
quickly feeling overwhelmed by a
veritable encyclopedia of choices,
ranging from the more benign
barbecued meats to a long list of
Chinese delicacies.
The main event, however, was half
of an exquisite looking, blood-red
Peking duck (VND400,000) that was
wheeled over to our table. Parking
the cart in clear view so we could
watch, our server ceremoniously
carved off generous chunks of
perfectly cooked duck breast, crispy
skin still intact, and folded them into
pancakes ladled with hoisin sauce.
Minutes later, we dove into our
plate of succulent, crispy, Peking
duck rolls as our waitress whisked
away the carcass so it could be turned
into a delicious fried rice.
The deep-fried soft shell crab
with pepper and salt (VND160,000)
also impressed, with a generous
sprinkling of fried garlic adding a
pleasant crunch to the dish. Our
accompanying side dish of stir-fried
vegetables (VND190,000), doused in

106 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

a generous helping of X.O. sauce, also


gave us a satisfying kick.
Rounding out the main course, we
also opted for the soup of the day
a very authentic chicken and corn
soup (VND110,000). So authentic in
fact, that upon raising my spoon for
the second time, a pink, scaly, tendonwielding foot came with it. Foot
aside, the depth of the broths flavour
was hard to beat.

The Finale
The desserts are listed on a separate
menu but dont offer much in the
way of heavy continental pastries.
However, with each spoonful of our
refreshing mango cream served with
grass jelly and pomelo (VND75,000),
I became convinced that eating cake
after five courses of Chinese food
would have been a bad idea.
Taking our final sips of jasmine
tea, we savoured the views of the
Hanoi Convention Centre from our
corner of Crystal Jades elegantly
proportioned dining room. Just like
the food, the destination had been an
experience in itself.
Crystal Jade Palace presents a
compelling choice for those who like
their Chinese food authentic and their
service with a flourish.
Crystal Jade Palace is in the JW
Marriott, 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

THE VERDICT

13
FOOD

12

SERVICE

11

DCOR

Food, Decor and


Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals

STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Xoi Hang Hom


For some of the tastiest, cheapest and most traditional xoi available in the
capital, head to Hang Hom. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris

or those travelling to Vietnam,


looking at guides and travel sites
like Trip Advisor or CNN travel
seems like common sense, as these
sites advise on not-to-miss local dishes
and eateries. Yet when it comes to sticky
rice or xoi, one of Hanois most unique
dishes, Xoi Yen is recommended as the
go-to place. Xoi Yen is the modern side of
sticky rice thanks to its range of mix-ins
like chicken breast, steamed pork and egg.
But theres also another side to xoi the
original and traditional version.
That version is the rustic, simple sticky
rice with natural ingredients grown in
the villages of Vietnam, like bean, peanut
and corn. There is no added meat. This
traditional xoi is often wrapped in lotus or
banana leaf, and sold on street pavements.
It is less of an accompaniment to a meal
more a breakfast. It is said that it was only
in the late 1990s that people started selling
xoi with meat. Since then, both xoi with meat
and rustic xoi have become indispensable.
But for Hanoians of all walks of life, a
portion of rustic xoi for breakfast is part of
the daily routine.

rice or xoi gac, xoi ngo or sticky rice with


corn, or sticky rice with beans, or sticky rice
with coconut.
Hanois rustic xoi is believed to have
originated in Ke Ga Village in Phu Thuong,
now part of Tay Ho District. As the old
saying goes, Ke Ga Village boasts three
things: banyan trees, long rivers and the
xoi cooking tradition. Indeed, people say
that Phu Thuongs xoi has a distinguished
fragrance and flavour thanks to the type of
sticky rice grown in the paddy fields of Phu
Thuong. It is hard to find elsewhere.
If you want to try a heart-warming,
particularly tasty portion of Phu Thuong
xoi for your breakfast, pass by Hang Hom
in the Old Quarter. The two sticky rice
ladies, Aunt Hien and Ha, sitting on the
pavement in front of number 44, will offer
you various versions of the dish for only
VND5,000.
The xoi sold by these two ladies is a
favourite of those living in the Old Quarter.
It is hard to believe, but these two ladies
sell about 200 kilos of sticky rice every day,
says a neighbour. The aroma and the taste
are so special.

The Phu Thuong Factor

Trade Secrets

There are many types of rustic xoi: xoi xeo or


Hanoi original sticky rice with mung bean;
xoi lac or sticky rice with peanuts, red sticky

Delicious sticky rice must have a shiny


yellow colour, says Aunt Hien. [When we
make xoi xeo] we have to carefully select the

mung beans. After being steamed, they are


pummeled and rolled into small tight balls.
The tighter the ball, the more appetizing
the mung bean. As she talks, Aunt Hien
skillfully shapes the balls inside her palms,
covering the base with thin yellow layers of
bean.
The taste of xoi xeo is incomplete if it
lacks crunchy deep fried onion or shallot
on top, together with liquid fat. Xoi should
be wrapped in banana or lotus leaves. The
leaves not only keep the heat and the aroma
inside, but also add a light aroma to the xoi
so that when you open up the package, you
get an irresistible blend of fragrance and
taste.
Having sold xoi in the same location for 20
years, the ladies have become well-known.
We have become friends with families in
this street. But we also sell cheap xoi for
students and blue-collar workers coming to
the city centre to work.
Buying xoi from the two sticky rice ladies,
you may notice a small sign reading: Park
your bike at the corner. Mind your voice.
Even though every morning they are
surrounded by a crowd of people, there is no
chaos here and the crowd is never noisy. For
the xoi prepared by Hien and Ha, people are
prepared to wait their turn. Quietly.
The sticky rice ladies sell xoi at 44 Hang Hom,
Hoan Kiem. Each pack of xoi costs VND5,000

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 107

Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Racha Room

Our undercover reporter ventures into a contemporary Thai restobar


that has been receiving rave reviews. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

ccasionally bars and


restaurants open their
doors and are an instant
hit. Occasionally.
Racha Room is one such place.
Serving up contemporary Thai
cuisine in a lounge bar-style setting,
this four-month-old venture has
transcended the difficult-to-conquer
problem of the restobar finding the
right balance between the needs of the
diners and those of the drinkers. But
the balance is a fine one. As operations
manager Greg explains, Vietnamese
diners dont mind the smell of smoke
in their vicinity. The majority of
Western diners hate it. The solution?
Before 9.30pm you are only allowed to
smoke in the bar area.
That theyre trying to strike this
balance says much about the ambition
of this venture. With possibly only
a handful of other venues truly
managing to fit into the restobar
theme the beer clubs are no more
than glorified quan nhau not only
have they entered an untested realm,
but they have created for themselves
a double challenge. Both the food and
the drink must be top-notch.

Down to Business
My visit to Racha Room was my
fourth, but on previous occasions Id
been there as a drinker, only sampling
bites and morsels of other peoples
dishes.
Arriving without an entourage
of fellow revellers, this time I found
myself taking in the ambience. Bare
brick walls, high ceilings, a bar area,

three dining spaces including a


mezzanine level, but most notably, the
spray-painted Thai elephant on the
wall. Screaming the word traditional,
the elephant in the room also screeches
contemporary.
The cuisine follows this theme.
For my starter I went for the
som tum salad (VND65,000). I love
the street food version of this dish.
Some years ago I spent three months
in Thailand and som tum, with its
pumice-crushed snake beans, chilli,
sour papaya, cherry tomatoes, dried
baby shrimp and fish sauce, became
a daily staple. Together with the fiery
streetside curries, tom yum soup and
Chinese noodle soup, it is my palates
enduring memory of Thai cuisine.
Biting into the papaya the spice
descended with explosion-like force
on my tongue. A welcome change
from the normal, watered-down
version of Thai cuisine that you are
often served outside of Thailand. This
is not a dish for the queasy.
Yet the version here, both
ingredients-wise and texture-wise,
is different. While the green papaya,
chilli, fish sauce and dried shrimps
are present, the other ingredients are
missing or altered, the papaya sliced
rather than shaved. And it is still
every bit as good. Som tum has a kick
to it, and this version has Muay Thai
written all over it.

Two and Two Equals Five


To wash down the spice I went for the
gin sin sling cocktail (VND150,000).
A cursory look at the bar area and

108 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

I spotted well over 100 different


spirits on its shelves a mixologists
paradise, especially in Vietnam.
Except for the peach liquor element,
like the elephant spray painted on the
wall it bleated out the word Thailand.
With Keffir lime leaf, lime juice and
lemongrass, it tasted like a cocktail
version of tom yum, just without the
shrimp and that overdose of chilli.
Another hit.
When I ordered my Massaman beef
rib curry (VND360,000), I ordered it
spicy. Like the som tam it came out to
the table within minutes the kitchen
is well set up here. Yet such are the
infusions and alterations with this dish
that it came out as a peanut-based mix
between a French casserole with black
pepper sauce and the original ThaiPersian dish from which it takes both
its name and its origin.
Unfortunately, it wasnt spicy.
Despite this minor disappointment,
the curry was tasty nonetheless, the
beef melting in my mouth, the sauce
sitting perfectly with the jasmine rice
on the side. I almost wiped the bowl
clean.
A friend of mine recently raved
at me about Racha Room. Theyre
going crazy with the cuisine there,
he said. Theyre experimenting with
everything.
From the cocktails to the cuisine,
Racha Room is very much a grand
experiment. But its an experiment
where right now, most things are
falling into place.
Racha Room is at 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi,
Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

THE VERDICT

13
FOOD

12

SERVICE

14
DCOR

Food, Decor and


Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Bun Cha Ca Danang


This month, Simon Stanley ditches the pork and swaps his
beloved bun cha Ha Noi for Danangs signature dish bun cha ca.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy

uy Nhon prefers it spicy, Nha


Trang likes it sweet, Hai Phong
takes it with dill the varieties
are endless. Like its midpoint
location along Vietnams 3,300km of
coastline, Danangs version of bun cha
ca fish cakes and noodles sits
somewhere in the middle, the perfect
blend maybe, giving the city its absolute
must-eat dish. But even then, as with
grandmas meatloaf or any bartender
in Havanas mojito, everyone does
it differently, and all will argue their
versions authenticity.
Nguyen Van Huan has been bringing his
familys bun cha ca Da Nang recipe to the
thrum of Phan Xich Long Street for the past
seven years. Here are the basics:
Bun simple enough. Vermicelli rice
noodles, few grounds for contention.
But add the cha ca and things get a little
blurry. Ground fish cakes (or pies to
translate directly), are poached or shallowfried, and served with noodles in a zingy
vegetable-based broth most commonly
a reduction of boiled pumpkin, pineapple,
tomato... and the all-important fish head.

The Daily Grind


So which fish? Other recipes use a mixture,
says Huan. But here we just use mackerel,
that is the traditional Danang way.

Im in no place to argue, but do not be


surprised to find combinations of flying
fish, knife fish, catfish, tuna or barracuda
elsewhere. To make the cake, the raw
meat is ground to a smooth paste along
with spring onions, salt, pepper, various
seasonings and corn flour. In this process,
density is key, the thicker the better. One
traditional way, my friend Loan tells me,
is to cover the grinder with ice, to keep the
machine and the fish cold so the meat will
be firm and thick. Huans cakes are indeed
plenty thick and meaty, delicately flavoured
and not too heavy as such a description
might suggest.
In our bowls we uncover a combination
of poached and fried slices of the cha ca, the
latter fringed with a tasty golden coating
(a result of the paprika-spiked oil). By also
adding tender cubes of pure and unground
fish meat, Huan has achieved a pleasing
balance of textures and flavours.

The Elements Combine


On to the soup. Although restaurants in
Danang will serve the stewed pineapple,
tomato and pumpkin (bamboo shoots may
also make an appearance), at Huans, they
are removed, with only some basic herbs and
spring onions added leaving a simple but
flavoursome broth that is far less fishy than
I had expected.

This tastes healthy! says my dining


partner.
We top our steaming bowls with a
few pinches of the fresh greens provided
cabbage, basil, lettuce and coriander
and the overall effect is one of perfect
finesse; gentle flavours bouncing lightly
between sweet and salty, the citrus notes
from the pineapple working particularly
well with the fish. With the tiniest dab of
fresh chilli, the meal is complete. While
your grandma may provide a saucer of
shrimp paste to top it off, at Huans its all
about the basic flavours.
So important a dish is this to the central
regions, that many restaurants use their
own fishing boats to catch just the right
ingredients. In Huans case, like others living
away from the coast, he has established a
direct link with suppliers in Danang to retain
the authenticity of the meal.
So, is this a Saigon version of bun cha ca
Da Nang? I ask.
No, no, he says. Everything, all of the
ingredients, its all from Danang.
Even the fish?
Even the fish, he replies.
Grandma would be proud.
Bun Cha Ca Da Nang is at 8 Phan Xich Long,
Phu Nhuan, Ho Chi Minh City. Thanks to Minh
and Duc from Tiger Tours for their translation
services

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 109

fashion

110 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Winter
in Hanoi
A change in the weather ushers in a change
in the fashion. And with temperatures
starting to dip, its time to get out the
winter clothing.
Photos, styling, hair and makeup by Julie
Vola
Clothes from Kilometer 109, Magonn
and Emporium
Modelling by Amy Pons and Laurinda
Belcher

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 111

Amy
Jacket, shirt and pants
from

Kilometer

109

| Silver bracelet from


Emporium, VND1,300,000
| Shoes from Emporium,
VND800,000
Laurinda
Jumpsuit from Kilometer
109

Bracelet

Emporium

112 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

from

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 113

Laurinda
Grey dress, Cattan @ Emporium, VND1,150,000
Amy
Red pants, Magonn, VND920,000 | Grey
Sweater, Georges @ Emporium, VND360,000 |
Shoes, Emporium, VND800,000

114 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Laurinda
Grey pants, VND920,000 |
Cardigan, VND920,000. Shirt,
VND450,000 | Grey coat,
VND1,980,000. All from Magonn
| Necklace from Emporium,
VND1,500,000
Amy
Penny Lane dress, VND1,350,000
| Blue coat, VND1,950,000 | Red
clutch, VND920,000. All from
Magonn | Shoes from Emporium,
VND800,000

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 115

travel

Rwanda

116 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Passport-Eating Dogs,
Volcanoes and Gorillas
When Danny Armstrong went to sleep in Rwanda at
night, he didnt know about the suspense and beauty the
morning would bring. Photos by Frankie Randle

n the Kinyarwanda language there is


an expression: At night God comes
to sleep in Rwanda. In April 2013,
entering my 34th year, I decided to
go sleep in Rwanda for a brief time. It
proved to be the most life-affirming
and simultaneously heart-wrenching
experience of my life, and the country
remains the most beautiful land I have
ever had the privilege of setting foot in.
Rwanda is situated a few degrees south
of the Equator and is bordered by Uganda,
Tanzania, Burundi and the Democratic
Republic of Congo in the Great Lakes region
of Africa. At 26,338 square kilometres,
Rwanda is the worlds 149th-largest
country in other words, tiny!
We entered the capital Kigali on the redeye Kenyan Airways flight from Nairobi, and
as I lined up to speak with customs about
my visa on arrival, my British travelling
companions took full opportunity of their
freedom from this task to go buy several
bottles of Amarula Cream for breakfast. Just
as I was set to exit from the bowels of the
airport an armed officer stepped up to me.
Kigali is plastic free, sir.
After disposing of the plastic bag I was
carrying, I met my colleagues in a coffee
shop and headed downtown. The first
impression a visitor to Rwanda has is
an immediate appreciation of the plush
greenery. Its like entering the interior of a
ripe fertile fruit.
Kigali, like all of the country, is around
1,500m above sea level and this enhances
the aesthetic qualities of a land generously
endowed with mountain ranges and lakes.
Blessed with a moderate high altitude
climate that belies its tropical location,
the Rwandan capital provides both a
comfortable and welcoming introduction
to this land of a thousand hills and an ideal
springboard from which to explore this
magical country.

Disaster Strikes
However, the local Kigali dog populace

118 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

did not prove so welcoming and within 24


hours disaster struck in the most absurd
way imaginable. I woke after my first night
in Rwanda to the sound of an incoming text
message.
I have never experienced an unsolicited
hallucination before, but the contents of
this message had me convinced Id finally
gone completely sideways. When I showed
it to my workmate who was staying in
the same Indian restaurant-cum-hotel he
was rendered equally speechless. Within
the timeframe of landing, getting drunk
on Amarula Cream and falling asleep at
a former colleagues house in downtown
Kigali, the message informed me that a vital
member of our travelling posse had lost his
passport because it had been devoured by a
Rwandan canine.
The ramifications of this were too awful
to contemplate especially with travel
looming on the same day. With my friends
burgundy ID floating in the digestive tract
of a Rwandan cur, we set off for Lake Kivu
on the border with the troubled Democratic
Republic of Congo.
As I placed a sympathetic hand on his
shoulder at the Kigali bus terminal, he told
me how it happened: he had placed his
trusted British documentation on a table
and fallen asleep. The housedog promptly
sniffed it out and ate it. It was a blow from
which my friend would not recover.
After a crowded and visually spectacular
journey through the mountains on hillhugging highways, we arrived at the city
of Gisenyi in the West of Rwanda. The city
features resorts on the shores of Lake Kivu
and is contiguous with the troubled town of
Goma across the border in the Democratic
Republic of Congo.
The region is home to Bralirwa the only
brewery in Rwanda, which manufactures
various local beers such as Primus and
Mutzig as well as Amstel and Guinness
and Lake Kivu, the sixth-biggest lake in
Africa. But, proving beyond a doubt that no
matter how bad things get they can always

get worse, my friend who had lost his


passport to a hungry dog was stricken with a
savage bout of food poisoning... brought on
by what I deemed to be some of the best fish
I had ever tasted.
Of the five members of the group he was
the only one rendered ill by the fish. This
sadly spelt the end for him. He took the bus
back to Kigali as soon as he was capable
and then moved on to London with an
emergency passport.

Testing Fate
The remaining members couldnt let this
tragic turn of events sap our morale, as we
were going to need every ounce of strength
we could muster as we set off for the
Virunga Mountain range where gorillas
and volcanoes awaited.
Do not attempt to climb Mount Bisoke
in the wet season, which is in April; do
not climb this volcano if you are not an
experienced mountaineer; make sure you
have enough supplies, like water; and please
make sure you have the correct mountainclimbing attire, it reads in the guidebook.
We were not privy to this information and
given that it was in fact April, none of us had
any experience going up mountains, we had
very little water and were dressed like we
were going for a Sunday stroll, it may have
proved useful. On the other hand, it may
have prevented us from choosing to go up.
The peak of Mount Bisoke sits at an
elevation of 3,711 metres and is an active
volcano with the benefit of hindsight Im
glad our desperately unlucky friend did not
accompany us, as it no doubt would have
erupted! There were times when we crawled
through mud on all fours for what seemed
an eternity, hour after hour. At some point
I broke through the pain barrier and was
in a strange euphoric state which was
shattered on the way down.
The eldest member of our group suffered
terribly and at times broke into what
sounded like fluent Chinese and at other
times made noises similar to what I was to

However, the local Kigali dog


populace did not prove so welcoming
and within 24 hours disaster struck in
the most absurd way imaginable.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 119

Just as he sat down


the Rwandan trackers
gleefully announced it
was time to make the
descent. I seriously
contemplated kicking
our older colleague
into the bubbling
crater, a mercy killing
of sorts.
hear the next day from a silverback gorilla.
When he reached the summit, about an
hour behind us, he was not coping well. His
face was grey and he was shaking terribly,
cursing all the while, and when some
mountaineering snob offered him a sardine
I felt compelled to intervene, dragging him
away for a hard-boiled egg.
Just as he sat down the Rwandan trackers
gleefully announced it was time to make the
descent. I seriously contemplated kicking
our older colleague into the bubbling crater,
a mercy killing of sorts. The descent was

120 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

done for the most part on ones backside,


and I came crashing down at least 20 times.
By this stage our elder counterpart had his
own personal escort, both of whom were
carrying automatic weapons, and the tirade
of virulent Chinese and gorilla mating calls
flowing from him had me convinced they
would shoot him.

Gorillas in the Mist


The next day we were up at dawn to go
see gorillas. We had paid US$750 (VND16
million) for this privilege, and like imbeciles
destroyed ourselves physically the day
before.
Cant we just go to a zoo and see them?
I asked, only half-joking.
We trekked about three hours before
our guide started making a series of low
grunting noises, and sensing we were
close to the gorillas I started making the
same ridiculous noise, done to placate the
silverback! Stepping through a series of
vines, we were suddenly and magically in
the living room of a group of gorillas, close
enough to touch, there they were. A rustling
high up in the canopy informed of the
silverbacks presence, and this precipitated
a jealous spat between two of his females.
When he came into view it was a sight
to behold, the most powerful looking
specimen I had ever seen. He was not so
impressed with us, and spent most of his

time drinking from a vine that we were told


was alcoholic.

20 Years Ago
As we left the gorillas our ranger gave us a
moving talk about the genocide of 1994.
The result of growing tension between
the Hutu majority and Tutsi minority, the
spark point came when a plane carrying
the Hutu President, Juvnal Habyarimana,
was shot down. The following day the
conservative elements of the Hutus went
on the rampage, slaughtering moderate
Hutu and Tutsi. By the time the genocidal
killings came to an end, 20 percent of the
population were lost to the madness.
Although there has since been a period
of reconciliation and healing, Rwanda
remains unstable and tension still bubbles
under the surface. Everyone in the country
has been scarred by this trauma in some
way, and despite much forgiveness, it is a
memory that is difficult to forget.
Yet, such is the beauty of this altitude
land, that it remains one of the most
stunning travel locations in Africa. In the
same way that so many people now head
to Cambodia, which had its period of
genocide in the late 1970s, travellers should
not be put off by the scars of the past.
As our ranger explained to us, as a
nation, Rwandans must never allow
anything so terrible to occur again.

Information
You can fly to Rwanda via Nairobi with
Thai Airways and Turkish Airways. Both
do direct flights to the Kenyan capital.
From there youll need to hop on a
Kenyan Airways flight to Kigali.
Wikitravel has a fairly comprehensive
travel guide to Rwanda online. Click
on wikitravel.org/en/Rwanda for
information.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 121

travel
TRAVEL

NATIONAL

The Bluffs
Glen Riley got invited to the three day-long opening of The Bluffs,
a Greg Norman-designed golf course in Ho Tram. He even got a
chance to meet the great man himself

hen I was offered the


opportunity to go to the grand
opening of The Bluffs, the
much talked about golf course
in Ho Tram, I jumped at it. I grew up with
my father watching golf every weekend.
It was an obsession of his and golf, or at
least televised golf, was a big part of my
childhood.
One of my golfing heroes, Greg Norman,
was going to be there. The designer of The
Bluffs, his second course in Vietnam, here
was my chance to meet him. Not that I
expected to have the chance to talk to him

122 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

seeing him in the flesh and attending a


press conference was going to be enough.
Still, just having him there was a thrill. In
the golfing world Norman is royalty.

Bring it On
Put up at the Ho Tram Grand, the enormous
Las Vegas-style resort complex replete
with a casino, the first evening was given
up to a pool party and a buffet with live
entertainment from well-known model and
DJ, Angie Vu Ha. Of course the standard
speeches came as part of the package. The
audience was introduced to the various

executives behind the project and naturally


Greg Norman was on hand to say a few
words.
We were lucky. In the afternoon the
monsoon had unleashed its full force on
the coastline of Ho Tram. But by early
evening the clouds had cleared, setting up
the evening for what turned out to be an
enjoyable event.
Normans presence, though, was
minimal. He had his table. He arrived
an hour late and contact with him
was impossible. I had managed to get
permission to go on a walkway splitting

One of my golfing heros,


Greg Norman, was going to
be there. The designer of
The Bluffs here was my
chance to meet him. Not that I
expected to have the chance
to talk to him seeing him
in the flesh and attending a
press conference was going to
be enough

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 123

Ho Tram is an ecologically
delicate area. Here the
ecology has, as much as
possible, been left intact

the kidney-shaped pool to take photos


of the on-stage entertainment. Yet once
Norman arrived I was quickly removed
from my vantage point by his minder a
huge American guy who I guess travels
everywhere with him. It was eventually
worked out and I was allowed back on the
platform. That was the closest I got.

Teeing Off
The second day was our entourage of
guests and journalists introduction to
The Bluffs. It started with speeches we
were told what had been involved in
transforming this sandy, hilly outcrop into
the golf course that is.
The Bluffs has been built with full
respect for the lands natural topography.
The course designers and Norman himself
have worked hard to avoid the typical
environmental issues that can come with
the construction of golf courses. Ho Tram
is an ecologically delicate area. Here the
ecology has, as much as possible, been left
intact.
One of the issues was getting the right
grass so that it wouldnt affect the natural
landscape. Strategic lakes have also been
placed within the course all the water
feeds into the lakes and is purified and
re-used. Already this is ticking the right
boxes.

124 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

When the course was landscaped, a


helicopter surveyed it from above to
pinpoint a particular indigenous type of
tree that only grows in this area. When
other more commonly found trees were
cut down to create the course, they were
cut down by hand so as to not disturb the
indigenous species. More ticks.
With the speeches finished, four pro
golfers were lucky enough to play the
course. They were introduced two of
them were Vietnamese women. These were
the first four people to officially go round
all 18 holes.
The day was rounded off by a tour of the
property the casino, the private rooms,
the spa, all the facilities. I had expected the
gaudy side of Las Vegas when the place
was described to me, but it was anything
but. The place is surprisingly elegant, even
down to the handpicked artwork hung on
the resorts many walls. Going from living
in the less developed end of District 1 to
being in such a place was quite a shock.
The day was then rounded off by a gala
dinner in the hotel ballroom and a Greg
Norman televised interview with Fox
Sports Singapore.

The Press Conference


On the last day we finally got our chance
to pose questions to Greg Norman. Heres

a clippet of what he said.


Me: What were your learning
experiences from establishing your
golf course in Danang versus what you
established here?
Greg Norman: Every site is different.
Danang was so unique and its right on
China Beach. Danang and the history of
what happened there so many decades
ago. And I thought that was a great site,
too. But it was a totally different feel, a
totally different walk and a totally different
product that came down out of the ground.
The beautiful part about here, I came
here in 2006, its been an eight-year
process. Now eight years may seem like
a very long time, but we had to take into
account government regulations and
approvals. Its not a long period of time.
Where the important bond really exists is
between the developer and the designer.
Because if you stretch a project over that
period of time you have to a have a belief
and support structure in place to make
sure that we all see the end goal. Whatever
that end is in time lines, weve seen our
end goal, weve seen our renderings and
land planning. We actually believe in it.
Part of it is my responsibility to
get the officials to get water here and

infrastructure in here, to give us the


capabilities to build this golf course and
allow them to see five years, 10 years, 20
years, 30 years down the line that this is
going to happen. So eight years seems like
its a long time, but its not quite honestly.
So when you come into a country like
Vietnam, the experiences I learned, like in
Danang are just that. There is a process of
time that takes place and then educating
the guys up here about that process of golf
course design helps them lay out their
land and time frames of construction and
completion. Because you pretty much want
them both done at the same time. They did
a fantastic job here and got this all done in
15 to 18 months to where we are today
Me: So you pretty much have a kick ass
development team?
Greg Norman: Excuse me?
Me: I said you must have a pretty kick
ass development team?
Greg Norman: Oh yeah, we pretty much
do. You should really speak up louder when
you say something that complimentary.
[laughter throughout the room].
More information on The Bluffs click on
thebluffshotram.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 125

travel

DAY TRIPPER

HCMC

Bien Hoa

Owen Salisbury makes a pit stop off the


Hanoi Highway, to discover a city whose
charms fly beneath the radar

hy are you
going there?
Counting
out
VND46,000, I paused. The
ticket agent frowned, baffled.
Why not go to Mui Ne or Phan
Thiet?
I explained it was for fun, that
I was writing a story about Bien
Hoa.
Still puzzled, she handed me
two tickets, saying, Good luck.
I think she was wishing me
luck at finding fun in Bien Hoa.
Dont be surprised by similar
reactions when announcing
youre deliberately going to
Bien Hoa. Despite only being
a 45-minute train ride away
from Ho Chi Minh City, many
Saigonites seem to regard it as
part howling wilderness, part
bleak industrial exurb.
Its neither. Its a fun little
town, with more possibilities
than the uninitiated think, easily
enough for a pleasant day or
weekend getaway. The train
ride is cheap and quick, though
cab fare mounts up once there.
Driving takes twice as long.
Buses are even cheaper, though
schedules are limited.
The train has the added bonus
of going over the Ghenh and
Rach Cat Bridges, built by one
M. Gustave Eiffel, famous for a
couple other little trifles in Paris
and New York... though these
little bridges are deservedly not
world-famous.

126 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Bien Hoa Night Market


Trinh Hai Duc, Bien Hung Park
After lunch, we walked the
rain-freshened town, dotted
with jewel-like parks, lakes and
unexpected vistas. Our ramble
took us to our next destination,
the Bien Hoa Night Market.
Arriving at dusk, most stalls
were still setting up. Western
tourists must be rare; we were
the objects of double-takes, frank
stares, whispers and often
approached in that charmingly
bizarre way, for pictures with
complete strangers.
Established in 2005 with
around 100 stands, the Night
Market has grown steadily.
We browsed along, eventually
stopping at Minh Nhats

six-year-old clothing stall,


mostly because employee Sang,
21, asked in excellent English if
we could take a picture together.
We stayed to chat.
People come from all over
Long Canh, Sung Loc, Ho
Chi Minh City, Binh Duong. All
come here, most on Saturday,
Sunday and Monday, said
Sang. They hang out at night
and shop.
They did brisk business,
customers walking and biking
by, waving like old friends. The
other stalls, selling everything
imaginable but most featuring
clothes and snacks, were equally
busy.

KTan: Wild Menu, Wooden Taste


131A Cach Mang Tang Tam
Following locals advice, we
lunched at KTan, right above
the Dong Nai River, with the
Ghenh Bridge visible down the
vast bend of water.
The interior is charming,
with faux-aged brick and fake
vines hanging from the ceiling,
the second floor a nicer version
of the first. Our riverside table
boasted a marvelous view.
But restaurants are about
food, and thats where KTans
charm falters. The menu is vast.
Ever craved duck tongues? Pig
uterus? Sparrow or pigeon?
Dried Beef Ants Egg Salt?
(who hasnt?)
My traveling companion and
I opted for recognisable food.
No waiters spoke English or

understood my Vietnamese,
so ordering took time. Im
fairly confident we got what
we requested, point-and-grunt
being universal.
Its sad when the best thing
about a restaurant is the rice.
Everything looked beautiful,
and KTans garlic-fried rice
was good, but the colourful
mango salad included a
smoked fish (Tastes more like
smoked mud, commented my
companion), complete with
pop-eyed head, not listed in
the menu. The grilled goat
with soya cheese was actually
deep-fried in margarine, and
even sweet garlic sauce couldnt
enliven steamed sweet potato
buds.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 127

Lang Buoi:
Pomelo, Pomelo and More Pomelo
Tan Trieu
Our second lunch was far
better, at Lang Buoi, a riverside
restaurant of thatched huts and
tables scattered amid artfully
tamed jungle, next to a pomelo
orchard. According to a local
friend, Lang Buoi was the first
pomelo-orchard restaurant, now
much imitated.
Here too were local delicacies
field eel, selachian, herring,
game birds, boar alongside
dishes from many regions of
Vietnam (but usually including
pomelo.) The Hmong chicken
looked particularly intriguing.
Finally, we chose bap xao, an
appetiser of fried corn, followed

Lu Khach Quan Guesthouse:


The Place to Be in Bien Hoa
73A/5 Nguyen Ai Quoc
This is the third time Ive been
to Bien Hoa and on both
previous trips I was pleasantly
surprised by the quality of hotels.
The Lu Khach Quan
Guesthouse goes way beyond
surprising, however its
fantastic. Barely 18 months
old, its simply owner-operator
Nguyen Thanh Sangs family
home, and they welcome you to
the family with open arms.
If you go, make sure you have
the guesthouses phone number,
as most cabbies wont know the
way there. Located far down
busy Nguyen Ai Quoc, its easy
to miss, a building whose narrow
front belies the warmth and
comfort within.

The warmth emanates from


Sang and his family, who opened
the guesthouse in 2013. When
we visited, the hotel was more
than fully booked. I slept in
an upstairs living room fixed
up especially for me, and Sang
cheerfully gave up his own
bedroom to another guest.
Comfort is covered with
a beautifully done six-bed
dormitory, and the small private
rooms are dominated by massive
beds. The rooftop garden boasts
a nice view, and guests gather
nightly to drink and talk with
Sang.
Breakfast is included in your
stay, and is much better than at
most hotels.

128 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

by a massive pomelo-chickenshrimp salad and com chay chien,


crispy browned rice cake with
green onion-chilli sauce. And,
of course, the mildly alcoholic
local pomelo wine, tart and
refreshing. We finished with che
buoi, pomelo sweet soup.
Its peaceful, next to this lazy
river, and while again there were
communication problems (the
entire restaurant has one lonely,
ill-translated English menu) the
food made up for it brilliantly.
Wine is for sale at about
VND120,000 per ceramic,
pomelo-shaped bottle. So you
can bring home a bottle or two.

The Friendliest
Man in Town

The Halong Bay of the South


Buu Long Park
We spent our last afternoon
wandering Buu Long Park, an
amusement park/zoo/outdoor
theatre/many other things,
complete with restaurants and
event centre. Statues abound, like
the massive dragons guarding
the entrance. A temple features
a gilded statue of the sleeping
Buddha, surrounded by lesser
figures.
The centrepiece is the artificial
lake, dotted with jagged spires
and cliff faces carved into
animals. Its stunning from
almost every angle, despite
occasional litter.
One of the best views is at inpark restaurant Du Long (Street
24), where the whole sweep of
the lake is framed by gardens and
flowers. Words cannot do it justice.
Stopping at a lakeside gazebo,
we watched people paddling

swan boats in and out of coves,


stopping at the tiny islands.
Our rest ended when workmen
started chain sawing a tree
nearby, which seemed a fitting
signal to leave.

Not Nearly the End


When its time to leave, either
schedule well, or be prepared to
shell out over VND600,000 for a
cab buses and trains both stop
around 5pm.
Ill say again: dont be put off
by Bien Hoas reputation. Its a
nice, peaceful town not far from
Ho Chi Minh Citys bustle, great
for when you just need a short
break.
Weekend over, my travelling
companion summed it up nicely:
That was a lot more fun than I
expected for my first magazine
assignment.

Despite
only being a
45-minute train
ride away from
Ho Chi Minh
City, many
Saigonites seem
to regard it as
part howling
wilderness, part
bleak industrial
exurb

This mini tour barely touched


the surface ironically,
nearly everything we did was
included in the tours Mr. Sang
offers. Ostrich riding, croc
fishing, the midnight market,
pomelo village tours
whatever you want to do in or
around Bien Hoa, Mr. Sang is
there to help.
Nguyen Thanh Sang,
33, started his guesthouse
18 months ago, about 18
months after he started his
tour company.
When I came back to
my hometown from Saigon,
I started my company. After
a while, I started the tour
company to let people know
about my city.
When asked more about
his company, he demurs,
preferring to boost his home
city and spread a message
of friendship.
I want people to learn
about Vietnamese culture
and experience Vietnamese
hospitality. I want people to
really feel Vietnamese family
life, he says. I really want
people to know about my
hometown.
The way Im doing it is to
really let people live with my
family, going to the market
and cooking together. Thats
different from other hotels.
To learn more about Mr.
Sangs tours, guesthouse
and caf, visit his website at
lukhach.com.vn

travel

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DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI MID-RANGE / HANOI BUDGET /


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tours of the serene Halong


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172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
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$$$$
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Reproductions, of 19th
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LA FERME DU COLVERT

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LA VIE VU LINH

$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com

MAI CHAU ECOLODGE


DALAT TRAIN VILLA
Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL

$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
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pearlriverhotel.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking

Na Phon, Hoa Binh, Tel: (04)


6275 1271
maichau.ecolodge.asia
Occupies a private hill in Na
Phon Village in Mai Chau,
Hoa Binh a beautiful valley
roughly 135km southwest of
Hanoi Mai Chau Ecolodge
is a new four-star property
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MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
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NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$
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Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT


Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,

130 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Tam Coc Garden is a haven


of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic
views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.

HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
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FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI


6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the

hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI


20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden
Inn property in Southeast
Asia. Centrally located and
a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel
offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with
complimentary business and
fitness centres making it
perfect for the international
business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA


1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short
stroll from the Old Quarter,
this five-star hotel is a Hanoi
landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites,
theres plenty for the discerning business and leisure
traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi

is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next


door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER


43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.

MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI


83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end service, Mvenpick Hotel Hanoi
is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day
restaurant and a lounge bar
are available to satiate their
clientele while the kinetic gym
and wellness studio offer an
excellent range of equipment.
Massage and sauna facilities
are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154
well-appointed rooms and
suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.

SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn

CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com

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Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious
rooms, the hotel offers an
outdoor swimming pool and
great relaxation and fitness
facilities, including a tennis
court and spa. There are well
equipped conference rooms
and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE


HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI


1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL


$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.

HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex


offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON

$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL

$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn

This charming old hotel has


been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$
1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu

Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.

EQUATORIAL

Brimming with history the


Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

$$$$
141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com

Free wi-fi, international breakfast,


spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 131

travel
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.

HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$
133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com

EMM HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage
appeal and modern chic
thanks to a subdued palette
of white and grey around two
pop colours: azalea pink
and green hot pepper. Part
of the Thien Minh Group that
includes Victoria Hotels and
Buffalo Tours.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.

DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648

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sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

HOI AN & DANANG


AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com

CUA DAI

$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning
white sands of Bac My An
Beach, the stylish Pullman
Danang Beach Resort is
an oasis of activities and
facilities for the modern
traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is
perfect for a family holiday
or romantic beach getaway.
And with extensive function
facilities, Pullman Danang
also provides the a great location for your next incentive
getaway or event.

132 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

THE NAM HAI

$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT


AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO


ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH


VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL


AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

PHAN THIET & MUI NE


NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB &
BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with
excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE


ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA

$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic

Balistyle, thatched roof


honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$
54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$
24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com

PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT


AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT


AND SPA

$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn

PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its
bar restaurant, the Cat Cat
Guesthouse is paradise at
very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.

travel
TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM


BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND


SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP


Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI


BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards

of customer care. This


premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.

INDOCHINA LAND

SYRENA CRUISES

61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)


3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:


(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM


57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.

TRAVEL SERVICES HCMC


BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING


SERVICE
12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh,
District 1, HCMC

Call center: 1900 5454 40


www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

EXO TRAVEL
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY


121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.

HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).

www.cocobeach.net

paradise@cocobeach.net

Coco Beach Resort

58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien


Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 133

travel
GINKGO VOYAGE

TRAVEL PROMOS

1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong


Tru, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 3914 3344
ginkgovoyage.com
Offers a full range of quality travel services to both
domestic and international
travellers, including private
and customized tours, small
group tours, hotels bookings
as well as corporate travel
/ MICE solutions in Vietnam
and further. Email info@
ginkgovoyage.com for info.

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM


149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE


169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers
multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead
the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE


BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street
food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese
experience.

BEENINASIA.COM
www.beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection of
best hotels and great tours.
Create your own trip or we
can tailor make your itinerary.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE


108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org

TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Sheraton Nha Trang

Hyatt Regency Danang


danang.regency.hyatt.com
If youre in the tropics for
Christmas, you might as well
embrace it. Up in Danang, the
Hyatts Pool House Restaurant
was voted most likely to make your
shivering friends and family back
home jealous and with special
drinks added to the menu for Dec.
24 and Dec. 25, as well as a VND1
million net laid-back New Years
Eve option, youll start your year
off humble-bragging the right way.
Move inside for the Green
House and Beach House options,
with Green House doing a
VND1,090,000 net buffet
VND1,640,000 net with free flow
wine and a glass of champagne
on Dec. 24 and Dec. 25, and
Beach House handling the a la
carte. On New Years Eve Beach
House is the place to be, with a
resident jazz duo providing the
backbone of two set dinner options
VND1,590,000 net for the
four-course, VND1,960,000 for the
five-course.

Novotel Nha Trang


novotel-nhatrang.com
Getting beached this Christmas
season? Escape the bustle of the
major capitals and enjoy the

134 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

party season with Novotel Nha


Trangs Christmas Gala Dinner
at The Square on Dec. 24
VND1,155,000++ per person. Once
youve swam that off in the East
Sea, settle down for the Dec. 25
Brunch Buffet VND630,00++.
If youre not in a rush to return
to the Vietnamese rat race, consider
the Dec. 31 New Years Eve Gala
Dinner your perfect excuse
VND1,470,000++ including one
round of beer, wine or soft drinks
on the house. All thats without
even mentioning Vous Spas
Pampering Package which is on as
soon as this edition comes off the
printers and remains valid until the
last day of the year. VND1,190,000
net gets you a two-hour herbal
compression package thatll have
you channeling your inner Ghandi
thats how good your life will
be.

Pullman Danang Beach


Resort
pullman-danang.com
Celebrate on the white sands
of Danang this year and let the
Pullman do the hard yards in
the kitchen for you. Their Dec.
24 Christmas Eve Buffet Dinner at
VND1,350,000 net also includes
a free flow of beer, wine and

mojitos, so its not even worth


mentioning the mocktails and soft
drinks as well. Children 12 and
under get a seat at the big table for
VND675,000 net, while Dec. 25s
Christmas Day Lunch Buffet is a steal
at VND600,00 per adult. Its also
served with a side of magic and all
the Christmas pudding you can eat.

Sheraton Nha Trang


sheraton.com/nhatrang
If you want to go up north but
not too north for Christmas,
Sheraton Nha Trang has a little
plan for you. Check out the
Christmas Eve buffet at Feast on
Dec. 24 VND2.15 million++
for adults, VND1,175,000++ for
children, Santa and his lucky draw
prizes included in the bargain. On
Dec. 31 the Grand Ballroom will be
your New Years Eve destination,
with five hours of free flow, a DJ,
love band, Lion Dance and Cham
Dance performers and a seaside
countdown VND2.8 million++
for adults, VND1.4 million++ for
children.
The rest of the month will also
be holiday-like, with the children
of Nhan Ai Orphanage attending
the Dec. 5 lighting of the 6-metre
tree.

Hanoi

Recalling Hanoi // coffee cup // top eats // srudent eye // food promos //
the alchemist // the therapist // Medical buff // book buff
Photo OF NGO VAN SAC'S 2014 WORK, UP THE STREAM, by david harris
wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 135

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /


MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.

EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

CORPORATE SERVICES
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manu-

facturing for local resorts,


restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.

INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi
Tel: 04 3946 0435
www.bishanoi.com
The British International
School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides
a British style education for
an international student
body operating from a modern purpose-built campus
in the vibrant and cultured
city of Hanoi. The National
Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education
(IGCSE) and Advanced Level
(A Level) are taught to English speaking students from
Pre-School to Year 13. The
International Baccalaureate
(IB) Diploma will, pending IB
authorization, be offered
from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.

136 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN HANOI
3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe,
Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888
etonhouse.edu.vn
Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100
schools, a stimulating and
motivating environment, and
a child-centred approach,
children at Eton House make
rapid progress and achieve
their maximum potential.
Classes offeredfor students
aged 18 months to 6 years
and there isan Open Door
Policy at all times.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL


48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.

kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF


HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC

Unit 9 10, Shophouse


CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209

APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.

AGS FOUR WINDS


41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM


62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO


Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN

leading language centres.

142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:


(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:


(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES


Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, re-

hanoi
location services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. For more information email Vietnam@
santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS


CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL


1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY
FRASER SUITES HANOI
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI


49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.

SPORTS GARMENTS
SCORE-TECH
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01203 802832
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.

DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT


25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting
at VND500,000 and a DJ on
the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE
2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE


32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR


62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.

MAOS RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR


7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR


19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this
tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.

ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH


12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR


8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE


47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight

CAFES
JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the
concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma

has brought a little slice


of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE


252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAF


10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade

juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery


service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY


6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting
in a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES


BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.

LATELIER

WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES


21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 137

RECALLING HANOI
PART EIGHT

andscape is entangled with history


and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
The book I am working on, Recalling
Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry
weaved out of portraits, peoples stories

and the urban landscape that hosts them.


I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history;
a great event; everyday little stories that
our lives are made of. These stories, along
with the photographs of the storyteller

and the location provide depth.


Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered
portrait of this city through its collective
memory. The hope is that the audience
will connect to other peoples lives and
also to their own memories in an attempt
to understand this beautiful city.

Tran May
A Moving Scene
Location: Little Lane (Ngo Hep), 1988
The movie I was working on was shot
during Doi Moi, a time when everything
was changing in Vietnamese society,
and the subject was very rare: a girl
decides to marry an old but rich man
instead of choosing love.
The scene I remember the most is the
one where local people were lining up
to take water from the communal tap
in a very narrow lane. That communal
area was like a small society. People
would fight and be aggressive to get
to the water first, but whenever the

respected teacher would come to get


water, the people would let him get it
first and they would stop fighting and
show a lot of respect. That movie scene
makes me think of the behaviour and
the relationships between people and
how they have changed.
I remember the time before Doi Moi.
Hanois streets were empty; there were
less people than now and life was very
difficult. But relationships were more
important; people were closer to each
other and love stories were simpler.

I remember the image of the bicycle


was a symbol for love: simple and
immaterial. I feel like now society is
more money orientated and it wasnt
at that time. It was simpler like a
bicycle.
I am a bit nostalgic. I reckon Doi Moi
brought more material comfort and
before it life was really difficult. But
though in the past there were power
struggles, nobody had money, so it was
a level playing field and there was less
corruption. Everything has two faces.

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Hong May Nguyen


Friendship
Location: Hanoi Amsterdam School
We are four girlfriends like sisters. We
have known each other for almost 20
years now.
I met Ha in primary school. We disliked
each other for almost five years. She was a
formal and studious girl, I wasnt. When
we went to the Hanoi Amsterdam School
we ended up in the same class, we didnt
know anybody and because we came
from the same school the teacher sat us
next to each other.

I met Anh the year after. She was very


shy and the other kids made fun of her.
Her birthday was one day before mine. To
be nice I decided to bring her flowers that
day at school.
I met Linh around the same time as
Anh. One day, after school she was alone
waiting outside the gates for her father.
To keep her company I waited with her.
For over an hour-and-a-half we talked
non-stop.

That summer, my father passed away.


With their support and friendship they
helped me get through that very hard
time. Now I understand how important
and deep a friendship can be. Though
weve all grown up and left the school, we
have managed to stay close.
This is the eighth excerpt from Julie
Volas work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is
presently being serialised in Word. For more
information email juls.vola@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 139

hanoi

COFFEE CUP
AND HERE CAF

ne of the things I love about


Vietnam is that when it
sometimes feels impossible to get
things done, streets can literally
change overnight. Its one of those things
that gives you hope during the occasional
#expatfail that one day, youll unlock the
secret to getting things done.
Having been gone for only a month,
I was shocked when I returned to my
favourite bar on Nguyen Quang Bich to
notice a fluorescent beam of light streaming
in from across the street. In typical Hanoi
fashion, And Here Caf had almost literally
sprouted overnight, and was buzzing
with young evening patrons. Intrigued, I
ventured back the next day.
From the outside, And Here Caf appears
to clash with its scruffier neighbours. It
sits amid a sea of bun cha nem stores that
spill off the footpath and overtake the
street behind Hang Ga Mall. Outside, stall
minders recline in their ever-so-stylish
two-piece pyjamas, with strips of carefullyfolded newspaper incubating their fresh
highlights. Inside, neatly organised tables

140 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Chris Humphrey

play host to chic handbags and glistening


white phablets (a hybrid of smartphone
and tablet), symbols of Vietnams growing
middle class. Albeit somewhat chaotic, the
area provides an endearing contrast of the
old and new Hanoi.

An IKEA Bomb
Inside, the cafs trendy white, yellow and
timber design, cafeteria-style seating and
whitewashed walls make you think an
IKEA bomb has exploded and left nothing
untouched. To the side, a black spiral
staircase winds its way to a second-floor
mezzanine in front of a feature wall covered
with bright green foliage. Funky magazine
racks adorn the walls with the latest issues
of Harpers Bazaar, Elle and gay-friendly
mag Attitude, in a nod to Vietnams liberalminded youth.
If you consider watching people take
selfies by the dozen (each with the same
pouted expression and background)
an intriguing spectator sport as I
most certainly do then visiting is a
must. You can also enjoy a colourful list

of coffee options, iced smoothies and


sodas, including the cafs own signature
chocolate soda for VND38,000.
Pretty much everything comes served in
a funky jam jar, which makes everything
taste better and exciting-er. Apparently.
The cafs Casadio barista machine
pumps out pretty consistent brews, and
those seeking some reprieve from the
humidity might find a pleasing alternative
in the cafs iced caramel macchiato
(VND38,000). Unfortunately, the benign
sounding mango smoothie (VND38,000)
comes with a deadly dollop of whipped
cream on top, which can tip the taste scales
into the sickly-sweet territory. But no
surprises there.
Overall, the selection isnt huge, but its
enough to get you by if you want a hip
place to do a few hours of web surfing, or
to step out of your usual roster of cafs.
If youre after somewhere quiet, then you
may want to avoid it at peak times around
lunch and dinner. David Mann
And Here Caf is at 22 Nguyen Quang Bich,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

hanoi
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE


MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT
AL FRESCOS

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed chairs
and wall-hung black and
white photography, there is
something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving
up a simple menu of snacks
such as quiche Lorraine,
Paris beurre and croque
monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has
a daily specials board and a
decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent
with masala, dopiaza, korma
and the more Goan vindaloo
taking centre stage. Also has
a good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION


48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE


32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859

littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.

goes over two floors and


has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.

thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT


42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well
as full courses such as
veal, and duck with currant
sauce. Known for its good,
European-style coffee and
first-floor terrace area with
views over the cathedral.
Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL


18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE


18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAF

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES


11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT


80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN
24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF

FITNESS & YOGA


STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS


5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04)
6263.1515
http://studio5.vn
facebook.com/yogastudio5
6am to 8pm
An international and professional Yoga Studio providing
more than 20 different yoga
styles such as: Hatha Yoga,
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga,
Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with
infrared heater), Power Yoga
and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes
per day. Bring harmony
back into your life Studio
Five is the perfect place to
reconnect your mind with
your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION


247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and
postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop
offering incense, yoga and
pilates mats, books, clothes,
soaps, Himalayan products
and other essential yoga
equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR


BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS


DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,


Tel: (04) 3923 0253

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 141

hanoi

TOP EATS
COUSINS

yprien Pierlovisi loves his food.


He was toiling away in French
kitchens from the age of 15,
before he moved to a London
pub and worked behind the bar. This was
followed by stints opening successful
restaurants and wine bars across Europe.
So, when Cyprien arrived in Hanoi
seven years ago to work for a gourmet
food and wine distributor, he quickly
realized something was missing. There
was a lot of French food but no gastro pubs
that served the things I loved eating in
Europe, he says.
And when his cousin, Maya, visited
from Shanghai, they decided they needed
to do something about it. They went into
business and started Hanois newest
European gastro pub.
Only a few months later and the selftitled eatery, located on a quiet corner of
Quang Ba, is now one of Tay Hos most
beloved weekend venues. Even from the
street, its impossible not to notice the
sunny courtyard buzzing with expats
tucking into plates of homemade Gruyrestuffed ravioli (VND180,000) and swirling
glasses of chilled French ros.
We really wanted to focus on quality by
using top-notch ingredients, says Cyprien,
or Cyp as he prefers to be known. But
we dont pretend to do fine dining. Were
a very laid back gastro pub with a focus on
good European food.

142 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by David Mann

That focus has been translated into a


balanced menu of pastas, salads and soups,
with plenty of room for gourmet favourites
like salmon tartar (VND130,000) and hearty
meat dishes. The rustic, unpretentious
dcor also oozes an effortlessly cool vibe,
like youd expect from a place in Marseille
or Melbourne.
The restaurant uses trained KOTO
graduates to dish up its colourful fare
alongside a generous selection of imported
European wines and as you might have
guessed cheese.

Family Connections
Cousin Maya insists that it is her 15 years
in project management and Cyps stern eye
for quality that has helped the restaurant
function like a well-oiled machine.
The emphasis on quality is evident from
my very first bite of fresh bread smeared
with generous spoonfuls of olive tapenade
(VND60,000). The concoction, made from
green olives, capers, chilli and anchovies,
is a burst of unapologetically bitey flavours
that instantly whet the appetite.
Our second starter of calamari and
mango bruschetta (VND75,000) is another
knock-out, with the lumps of fresh squid
providing a surprisingly good match for
the diced mango.
The stand-out starter, however, is
Cousins glorious falafel served with a mint
yoghurt sauce (VND50,000). As I carve

my knife through the firm golden shell, a


gush of steam erupts from the centre. Each
golden piece is perfectly cooked: crisp on
the outside, moist on the inside and with a
strong helping of spices.
As the smiling waitress dutifully carries
over my plate of beef cheek ragu pasta
(VND150,000), Cyp tells me that it has
been painstakingly prepared in red wine
for 12 hours. I nod and hold the plate up
to my face to bask in the rich aromas of red
wine and ribbons of collapsed beef. Each
piece of meat is tender, while the hearty
flavours of the sauce soak their way into
the homemade pasta.
By the time my fork makes its final twirl,
the finale a sumptuous bread and butter
pudding with salted caramel ice cream
(VND80,000) is hovering towards us. My
already full stomach makes an enthusiastic
jump at the sight of the spongy pudding
dotted with black flecks of vanilla bean and
drizzled with caramel sauce.
My face awash with caramel custard,
I gulp down the final dregs of my ros
(VND100,000 per glass) imported from
southern France and feel pangs of
remorse for things I didnt get to try, like
the pecorino and almond pesto pasta
(VND125,000) or the mango crme brulee
(VND65,000).
But then again, I guess theres always
next weekend. David Mann
Cousins is at 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Hanoi

hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com

LESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

B i

Triu

Hng

Hu

Phan

Chu
Trin
h

Q u
n S

inh Ti
n H o n g

Hng

Phng

H n g G

Hng iu

Hng
Phng

Qun
Nguy
n Du

Trn
Hn
g
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L Vn H u

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Hn T

uyn

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR


51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR


26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE


24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Tin

nh D
Kh
Trn

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR


23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.

+84 BAR

g
Hn

WILD WEST THEME BAR


98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

hi
L T

Trn
g

i
Kh

Thi

a ng
Qu

17 COWBOYS

n
Tr

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

L Thi T

Ngu
yn
Du

g
n

t
u

Nguyn
Tri Ph
ng

D
t
L Thi T

Trn
g

ng

Ch
Cu

Nh

o
ng
H

Ph

Thi

Cu G

ng

Trn
Hn
g
o
L Dun

Tel: (04) 3825 0216


7am to 8pm

n
Bi

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Tr

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Xu
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L
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H

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Bi

L Dun

n
i

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H

Trn
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LA FE VERTE

g
Lon
Cu

Ph

Hong Di
u

n
Y

HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT

BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a

zone dedicated to bars and


restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.

CAFES
CIAO CAF

RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE


252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY


6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE


45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES


AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE


24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT
AL FRESCOS

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.

CAF LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully


designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.

JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPAS

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 143

hanoi

STUDENT EYE

A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO BECOMING THE PERFECT TEENAGE BOY

One Direction as teenagers. The perfect teenage boys?

*This article contains a tiny tiny! bit of


sexism and gender stereotyping

he teenage boy is often the envy


of both young children and much
older men. He marks the pinnacle
of cool and swag as well as
the invincible youth and energy that so
many adults seek. Consequently, many
have tried, often hopelessly, to mimic and
become these teenage boys. This article
will guide you through the fastest and
easiest way to become the perfect modern
teenage boy.
The teenage world is all about judging
a book by its cover. Therefore it is of
utmost importance that you develop and
maintain an acceptable appearance. Unlike
traditional manliness, you must devote
great effort and time on embellishing
everything from your hair all the way to
your shoes and accessories.

Hair: Be Sexy
First off, you must realise that the old
Justin Bieber hairstyle, like J.B. himself, is
no longer cool. The current trend is to keep
your hair fairly short, and to use excessive
amount of wax to delicately lift your hair
upwards rather than sideways.

144 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Legs: Be Comfortable
With pants, you must completely ignore
the core purpose of belts, and allow them
to merely sit on the edge of your bottom,
showing a significant amount of your
underwear (you should aim for 8.5cm).
Here, your choice of the underwear is
very important, for they must have a
very clear band that highlights the brand,
which will subtly indicate your impressive
taste in fashion. Another way this can be
done is by clearly presenting your belt
buckle over the edge of your shirt.
Refrain from any baggy clothing,
especially pants, unless you want to
be remembered either as a hip hop
enthusiast or an artefact from the 1990s.
Also note that old, worn out trainers do
not qualify as vintage items.

The Mindset: Be Cool The


World is Watching
A demeanor that is compatible with
such an appearance is also essential to
becoming a teenage boy. It is expected
that you build a small group of close
friends of the same gender, with whom
you spend your recess, lunch, after-school
and weekends with. However, be mindful
of the appropriate things to discuss

with those groups be jokey, never


sentimental or emotional. Other topics
for discussion may include: girls, hot
girls, new girls, girls from other schools,
someone elses girlfriend and school
work. When talking about school work,
repeatedly emphasise how screwed you
are for an upcoming test or quiz, and
compete with each other about whose list
of homework and assignment is longer,
all of which you will not work on until
the night before the deadline.
Act foolishly and idiotically, get
amused by almost anything and indulge
in meaningless pranks. Also, some
perverted jokes may help you bond
quicker and easier. However, when you
are around the girl, (i.e. your crush/
girlfriend) discard all these characteristics
and return to being quiet, calm and just
generally cool.
Although it may be difficult at first,
with some time and effort you can
become the perfect teenage boy you have
always aspired to be. So dont be afraid,
take your time, procrastinate and dont
forget to stay cool. Tae Jun Park
Tae Jun Park is a high school senior at
the United Nations International School of
Hanoi, unishanoi.org

hanoi

FOOD PROMOS
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

LE BEAULIEU

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET


Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm

LUNO DAUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO

A French Christmas
For the festive season,
Millenium Caf des
Arts are running a sixcourse Christmas dinner
on Dec. 24 and Dec. 25
all cooked up by French
chef, Baptiste. The meal
includes appetizers, two
starters, two main courses
one pre-dessert and Caf
des Arts special Christmas
cake. The price is
VND1,030,000 per person.
Mention that youve heard
about this in Word, and get
an additional 10 percent
discount off your final bill.
Caf des Arts is at 11B
Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi

From Barcelona with


Love
La Bicicleta, the Barcelona
Bistro formerly known as
THBC Spanish Tapas Bar,
is running a selection of
Catalan-style Christmas
delicacies from Dec. 17
through to Dec. 24. Dishes
include canalons de nadal
(Christmas roast meat
stuffed cannelloni), fricando
amb llagostins (Catalan
surf and turf meat stew
with mushrooms and king
prawns) and the splendid

cuixa de pollastre farcida a


la Catalana (Catalan-style
stuffed chicken leg)
Served up with a
complimentary glass of
Tempranillo or Airn
provided by wine supplier
Phu & Em, this is a perfect
way to get a Catalan
Christmas experience.
La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Christmas at the
Hilton
The Hilton is putting
on a lavish buffet for
Dec. 24 with a wine and
champagne free-flow to
the accompaniment of a
live band, kids games and
a visit by Santa. Running
from 6pm to 10pm, the cost
is VND1,800,000++ per
person and VND900,000++
per child aged six to 12.
Christmas Day brunch
on the 25th from midday
to 3pm follows the
same format but costs
VND1,500,000++ per
person and VND750,000++
per child aged six to 12. In
both instances, kids under
six eat for free.
The Hilton is at 1 Le
Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi

Christmas at the
InterContinental
The InterCon in Hanoi
is pulling out all the
stops this Christmas with
all their dining outlets
getting into the Christmas
spirit. But the key event
will be in the Grand
Ballroom on the evening
of the 24th where the
property will set up the
ultimate festive buffet of
delicious international
and local dishes,
complemented with
exciting entertainment
and cheerful live music.
Together with a visit from
Santa Claus, adults pay
from VND2,000,000++ per
person including a free
flow of wine.
If youd rather tone
down your celebrations a
bit and focus instead on
Christmas Day, then the
buffet restaurant Caf Au
Lac is running a sashimi,
sushi and Christmas
roast buffet costing
VND1,300,000++ per adult
excluding beverages.
InterContinental Hanoi
Westlake is at 1A Nghi Tam,
Tay Ho, Hanoi

PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL


5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR


CITIMART

SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP


6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT


3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE
17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 3854

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 145

hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST
ARE YOU FEELING THE SHIFT?

ere moving. Physics tells us


that the Earth and everything
on her is in a constant state
of motion. The shift in
dimension the Earth and her inhabitants
are experiencing at this time is not
measured by scientific formulae but by
more subtle human experiences.

Moving from 3D to 5D
Teachers in the spiritual community
inform us that the accelerated drive in the
Earths shift in consciousness took place
on December 21, 2012. Since that time the
Earth has continued her journey from a
three-dimensional being to one vibrating at
a five-dimensional level, and everyone and
everything on her is going along for the ride.
This ride were on is causing a spiritual
awakening and although it may be difficult to
see at times, especially in our environment of
wars and conflict, there is a rapid awakening
of humanity at this time on Earth.
How do you know if youre vibrating at
a five-dimensional level? Each person on
the planet is passing from the third to the
fifth dimension whether they realise it or
not. Were all at different stages along the
path, however were all headed in the same
direction. According to spiritual teacher Jafree
Ozwald, there are seven signs that youre

146 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

entering your true multi-dimensional reality


and into the fifth dimension.

Trusting the Flow of Life

BY KAREN GAY

manifestations as the universe communicates


with you directly, giving you signs on how to
move forward.

One sign that allows you to know youre


entering the fourth and fifth dimensional
realms is you become open to trusting the
effortless flow of life and experience moments
of deep inner peace accompanied by feelings
of joy, lightness and wonder.

Divine Inspiration

Negative Issues Melt Away

God Manifest

As you continue to evolve, negative issues


youre carrying release easier and move
through you more quickly.

You are able to access the miraculous powers


of your true multi-dimensional body as you
fully understand that all matter is energy and
consciousness and that you are a part of this
whole.

Heightened Senses
You begin to physically experience a more
beautiful world as everything around you
appears more vibrant and you tune into the
symphony of the universe.

Timelessness
Time feels fluid, eternal and illusory. Your
daily events are filled with lightness and love
as you begin to realise you are not the doer
but that things are being done through you.

Synchronicity
You constantly have unexplainable
synchronistic experiences and miraculous

You know and feel divinely guided by


something higher than your own mind/
imagination. Through quieting the mind you
become open to hearing the guidance from
beings in higher dimensions.

Dont Stop the Ride


The key to experiencing this evolutionary
shift on a more conscious level is to remain
in trust and love. If you surrender to your
highest self, you will naturally open up
to experience the fifth dimension and in
so doing life becomes filled with joy and
effortless ease. Thats a ride I wouldnt want
to get off.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a
holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi.
For information on the types of services provided,
visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

tay ho

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

n
A n Dng V g

TAY HO
DISTRICT

Lc

Lo
ng

Qu
n

g
n
g V

Tn

u C
Xu

THE REPUBLIC

MODERN SPORTS BAR


7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery
showing live sport and boasting a convivial
atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials
and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

hi
Ng

c Long Qun

u
Di
u

n
Ni
Thanh
Th

ARTS
WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY


Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No.
49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective
that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS


88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR


88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029.
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference, this addition to
the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes
contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle
lighting and an international aesthetic with
one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele.
Well worth a visit.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE


27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633
166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, English-style pub garden
area and an upstairs space dedicated to live
music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is
the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has
weekly live events featuring bands both from

Thm
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Ho

Ph

Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
nh

Ho
n

Bi

oa

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Y

N guyn Phong S c

Tm

Ho
n

Hong Quc Vit

TAY TAP

BAR & GRILL


No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917
taytap.com
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this
recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo
mixes contemporary international comfort
food on the first floor with live music and an
often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West
Lake views from their top floor terrace.

Ngu
yn
Ho
ng

delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking,


unpretentious, dog-friendly.

Vietnam and overseas established and up


and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out
their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4 group, which now
has its offices in the establishments upstairs
areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted
with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed
for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly
created cocktail class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold
at other restaurants in the chain.

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
or 0984 002181
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal
for those seeking a fusion of Western and
Eastern cuisine. Famed for its many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle dcor, weekend DJ nights and general
atmosphere makes Madake a popular West
Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE


25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan
Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers
a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake.
Serving pies and pasties from The Cart,
Vietnamese food from Dieus next door, or

TRACYS PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on
the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually
crowded with regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for their draft beers,
claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in
Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North American sports,
they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS
BOOKWORM TOO

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS


1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829
2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary scene since 2001. It has been
around the block quite a bit and now shares
a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over
15,000 new and second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys
used books and offers free travel advice. Has
a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE


28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town
than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for
the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea,
the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking Westlake. With its
LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in
you might just forget that youre in Westlake.

hanoi
HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.

TET DCOR CAF

ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR


Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel

combined with unique and


inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAF


8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam
Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich bar hidden away in
Nghi Tam Village. Serves
and delivers tasty baguettes,
homemade juices, quiches,
pies, muffins and cakes. The
delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this
lunchtime favourite ideal
for when you need to eat at
the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE


(THBC)

CAF / TAPAS BAR


44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway
just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not
just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a caf that also sells
Spanish tapas served up
with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising
bicycle tours, running yoga
sessions and holding music
concerts in their upstairs
cafe area, they also sell, rent
and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and
SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING

0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese
culinary classes are offered
in these well-appointed and
clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you
through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS


VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

CRAFTS & FURNITURE


BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks
unusual handicrafts from
around the world as well as
second-hand books, DVDs
and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality
is designing furniture and
other household objects,
this spot has everything from
beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The
items are all locally made by
skilled artisans from Hanoi
and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.

LATELIER

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS

GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE

WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES


33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique
offers both ready-to-wear
and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

148 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling


equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring)
and organise guided bicycle
tours under the name Urban
Discovery, with a 25-year
experienced European mechanic as part of the team.
Closed Mondays.

EAT
AL FRESCOS

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm

COUSINS

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel:
01238 670098
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine
at reasonable prices in a
spacious, airy atmosphere.
Blackboards, whitewashed,
bare-brick walls, period tiles,
a well-chosen wine list and
an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the
formula.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang
Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary
looking Italian restaurant
next to the famed lawn chair
and coconut caf on West
Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.
Run by the long time former
manager of Luna DAutunno,
it features scrumptious
wood-fired oven pizzas from
VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner,
delivery is also available.

DALUVA

BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area
on West Lake. This bar and
restaurant offers casual
dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)

DONS TAY HO

DONS TAY HO

CYCLING COLLECTIVE
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
A place for bicycle lovers,
THBC is the official supplier
of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN


16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to
late. Weekends 8am to late

This lake-facing venue with


its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine
connoisseur Donald Berger.
Focusing on comfort food
done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything
from wood-grilled rare tuna
steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to
gourmet pizza and pasta
dishes such as the likes of
Iberian pata negro ham egg
pasta served with crushed
roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has
an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.

Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and


Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood no
problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams
and Crabs are all available
for your dining pleasure, as
well as an impressive array
of wines by the glass & bottle
from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel
Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan
Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned
by the same people behind
Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French,
Spanish and Italian dishes
in a pleasant, white-washed
yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.

INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel:
01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from
the ashes, so India Palace
has once again returned
to Tay Ho, this time on the
strip between Dons and The
Warehouse. Tasty North
Indian fare in a pleasant
environment from the team
behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A.
HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3946 0121
thehalia.com
Daily 11am to 11pm
A multi-floored venue with a
bar area and a refined dining
space. The menu includes
Singaporean specialities
such as the shrimp satay
salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European
classical menu mixed in with
light Asian flavours is also
on offer. Has an extensive
wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD


Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719
9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm
to 10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood
dining experience in Hanoi.
Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the
Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from
Black Angus, US Prime

INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more
comfortable bars in Hanoi,
J.A.F.A. is a great place for
drinking cocktails by the
pool. The beverages are
not the cheapest, but this is
made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a
full menu featuring familiar
western dishes such as pizza
and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are
also offered.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE


30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated house with a large
courtyard, Kitchen is a great
space for eating the decent
breakfasts (check out the
breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international
salads. Also does a range of
Mexican dishes (available
after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy,
smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC


256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area is
equipped with a sound system
and stage setup for weekly shows
and events, while the downstairs
area houses a classic bar that
gives a finishing touch to the
friendly community environment.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style bistro is best
visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through
the door. The downstairs space is
split into the bakery on one side
with a small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs
lounge area has standard tables
as well as sofa seating. Simple
French and international fare
is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien,
Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8
Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.

EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.

HANOI CLUB

ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE


51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 9911

hanoinetball@gmail.com
Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed
ability, mixed gender club for
adults wanting to enjoy team
sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The
club plays every Tuesday from
6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for
more information

VIETCLIMB

PUNTO ITALIA

HANOI OIS

CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure to
check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION


247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.

COFFEE MACHINES
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487

KITCHENWARE
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients

MEDICAL & DENTAL


INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC


51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants
also provide a range of services
from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations,
paediatrics and specialist care.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL


CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include
craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage,
healing stones massage, as well
as energy healing including Reiki
and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS


4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.

COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com

KITCHEN ART

FITNESS & YOGA

to cook like a chef, take part in


regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.

WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.

HOLISTIC HEALTH
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.

SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS


49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS


191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan
Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.fivimart.
com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET


36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang
Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu
Liem

hanoi

THE THERAPIST
This month Douglas
Holwerda, American trained
and licensed mental health
counsellor, advises on how
to best deal with existential
boredom

Simulated boredom

Dear Douglas,
I read your section in the Word every month
and I like the way you explain certain
problems. It helps me to think about myself.
I dont have a mental problem or experience
with a terrible event, but I feel bored and
unhappy with life. I should be happy
because I have a good husband and children
and enough money, but sometimes I feel like
it is not enough. Sometimes people tell me to
compare to others who have less than me to
make me feel better and sometimes they tell
me to not think too much and to just accept
the life I have. What do you think? Is there a
way to feel better about my life?
Bored
Dear Bored,
Thank you for writing about your feelings
and the questions of how to feel better in
your life. You have all the things that you
believed would make you feel happy
but they dont. Acceptance, as your friends
have suggested, is often good advice when
you dont have control of the things you
can change. But it sounds to me like you
are willing to make changes in order to feel
more happiness.
There is a famous book written by Viktor
Frankl called Mans Search for Meaning.
Frankl was a prisoner of war in the Nazi
concentration camps during World War II. In
the suffering of that experience he observed
people all around him giving up hope and
losing the will to live. He himself maintained
a determination to live as long as he could

150 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

so that he could write about and tell others


of what had happened there. He came to
understand that when people find within
themselves a clear purpose that gives their
life meaning, they live differently. They live
with direction and hope.
When I, as a therapist, help people get
out of depression, it almost always leads
to questions about what it is that makes
life worth living. Some research in the field
of Positive Psychology tells us that there
are three ways that people experience
happiness. The first is with more positive
emotions: excitement, pleasure, joy, laughter,
discovery, relief, exhilaration, peace, feeling
loved and more. Good feelings make us
happy at least for a while (we need to
remember that the same thing that made us
feel good the first time will fade when we do
it again and again).
The second way that people describe
feeling happy is when they are engaged
deeply in something. We love being
involved in a way that makes us lose track
of time and which is not distracted by
extraneous thoughts. When we are focused
we are happy. It says a lot about our natural
desire to be directly engaged with the
experience of living, being present to the
moment we are in.
The last, and maybe most important,
lesson from the research is that people are
most happy when they are fully engaged
in activities that are meaningful to them.
Helping others, being creative, exploring
and discovering, and contributing to a cause

or purpose are all ways that people have


discovered meaning in their lives. Joseph
Campbell is known for his advice to follow
your bliss! He is saying that one of the tasks
of life is to find what you love in people,
in nature, in art or literature, in politics, in
beauty, in life itself. Our passion comes from
that love of living.
Sometimes we have to clear away the
tasks of life in order to discover what
inspires us or to see them differently. We can
easily find ourselves working a job we have
to tolerate, or doing the chores of shopping
and cleaning. I hear people say that they
love to read but they cannot find the time.
My advice is to learn to prioritise those
things that feed your soul, inspire you and
give energy to your life. The tasks will take
care of themselves somehow.
Maybe it is not to change what you do
but it is to discover the purpose behind it.
Raising children can sometimes feel like a
thankless chore, but when we imbue it with
love and the inspiration of showing children
how to live happily, it can become inspired
by the love of living.
So here is some food for thought. What
is your purpose? What gives your life
meaning? What inspires you? What gives
you good feelings? What engages you? What
does it feel like to discover your bliss?
Enjoy it all!
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like Douglass
help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@
hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
FOODSHOP 45

Ph

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS


BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE


34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR


20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB


18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/vaulthanoi
The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind
Maos Red Lounge and The

Ho

Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime


decadence sits in the gap
between The Old Quarter
and West Lake, bringing in a
range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition
to the scene.

BOOKSHOPS
BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES
CAF GOETHE

ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE


32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this

Ca B
c

quaint cafe, most patrons


are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm

MANZI

ARTS CAF & GALLERY


14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES


GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE


58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

B Tr
i u

inh T
in H o n g

Hng
Bi

Q u n

Phng

Trn
Hn
g
o

Khm Thin
X

ng

Kh
n

C
u

Th
c

Nguyn
Tri Ph
ng

Hng

Th
n
Tn

Ho
Th
n
h

ng

La

Trn
g Th
i

Na
m

Giai

L iu

Ct Lin
h

Diu

Vng

Vn
Cao

Liu

Giai

g
Ln
ng

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h

ng
i

Trn Ph

n T
hi
Hc

L Dun

n g

B
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n
g

n
g

n
gL

nh
h

G
La Th
nh

Cha Lng

Hu

Ngu
y

L Thi T

Kim M

La
T

i C
n

Sn Ty

n
Xu

o Tn

Phng

g
n c
L

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nh

ng
H

Kim M

THE VAULT

Phan
nh

i Cn

Kh
n
hT
o
n

Ph

Qun

Hong
Hoa
Th
m

Th

Ngu
y
n

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Y

Hong

Ho

Th

Thanh

Ho
n
g

Hong Quc Vit

Ni

Hng

Q
Lo
ng
L c

n
Y

BA DINH
DISTRICT

Trn Nhn Tng

Tel: (04) 3734 2251


goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE

COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade,
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to
the Hanoi's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.

HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT


SONG THU
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR


59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regard-

ed as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.


Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
Reservations recommended.

MING PALACE

PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.

FITNESS & YOGA


N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE


5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS


DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL


FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 151

hanoi

MEDICAL BUFF
SLEEP HYGIENE

BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL

The worst thing in the world is to try to sleep


and not to F. Scott Fitzgerald

ouve heard of food and water


hygiene, but did you know
there is also such a thing as
sleep hygiene? Sleep hygiene is
all about the habits and practical things
you can do to improve the quantity and
quality of your sleep. Remember that
with all habits, they take time to form
and changes dont happen overnight,
but within a week or two of trying
establishing a new pattern most people
will see some improvement.

Tips For Good Sleep Hygiene


Routine regular bed times, even on
the weekends, can really help to establish
and maintain habits. This includes doing
the same things each night before you
get into bed too.
Environment a cool, quiet,
comfortable place to sleep is very
important. Particularly during summer,
when the temperature reaches up to
40 degrees at times, using your airconditioner or fan wisely may help
you sleep better and be better able to
cope with the heat during the day as
well! Noise is a perennial problem in
Vietnam, but a pair of earplugs may be a
lifesaver when your neighbours decide
to renovate their bathroom at 3am.
Exclusivity this means that your
bed is only for sleeping (and other
horizontal activities of the night). No
working, reading or watching TV from
bed! This helps your body to recognise
that lying in bed equals sleep time
not time to work on that last-minute
presentation for the next days meeting.

avoid! Try to stop work at least 30 minutes


before you go to sleep and do something
relaxing, like taking a short walk or
reading a book.
Clock-watching although it is so
tempting to keep looking at the clock, it
doesnt help and usually makes you feel
more frustrated at not being asleep. If you
are not relaxed in bed then get up for 30
minutes and do some quiet activity in dim
light before trying to go back to bed.

Things to Avoid

Things That May Help

Alcohol although you may feel that


it helps you fall asleep, actually alcohol
often causes disrupted sleep and wakes
people during the night best only in
moderation.
Caffeine and other stimulants we
all love the sweet strong Vietnamese
coffee with ice, but reconsider that last
one of the day. Caffeine blocks one of the
hormones in your brain that tells you its
time for bed.
Meals eating a heavy meal right
before sleep can disrupt your sleep and
exacerbate any reflux or indigestion you
might have, so eat earlier in the evening,
or have your main meal at lunch.
Stress a big one and difficult to

Early morning sunlight on your face


can help to reset the light/dark sensors
of your brain, so take your sunglasses off
when going to work early in the morning.
Warm milk or herbal teas yes,
mother was right, a glass of warm milk
before bed can really help. Chamomile or
other herbal teas can also be effective.
Naptime if you have to sleep during
the day then take a nap early. Late
afternoon naps will mean that your body
is just not tired enough to get to sleep and
can cause you to stay up late.
Worry time if you are anxious about
something and find yourself tossing and
turning in bed worrying about it, then keep
a notebook and pen beside the bed. You

152 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

can write down any thoughts or concerns


you might have in the book, which are
then safe for you to remember tomorrow,
and you can tell yourself there is no need
to keep thinking about them now.
Herbal remedies some herbal
remedies available in Vietnam that some
people find useful include Valerian,
Melatonin and Rotundin.
Some or all of these things will certainly
help you to get a good nights sleep, but
again it takes time and practice just like
any other skill. Perseverance is the key
and the rewards are great!
However, if you have tried these all
these things and are getting nowhere then
please go and see a doctor to discuss the
issues further. There are other medical
problems that may be affecting your
ability to sleep and some medications
may also cause problems. Further
investigations or treatments may be
required, so dont put it off.
Dr. Brian McNaull is Medical Director at
Family Medical Practice, which is located in
Vietnams major cities. For information or
assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08)
3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511)
3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on
vietnammedicalpractice.com

hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS


CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR


73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL


2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung

CAF 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight

CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE


152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR


59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY


166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to


9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends


the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE


55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH


5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan


Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA
35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL


POTS N PANS

SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan


Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn

Do you think you should be


listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL


INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081

VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS

What Our Patients

Say...

ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER


40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS


CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT
ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,


(Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL


200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 153

hanoi

BOOK BUFF

ts that time of the year when bookshops


present a few of their extra special books to
the public gaze.
One of our that su dac biet (supa doopa
specials) is A Dream of Red Mansions a
beautifully bound and boxed coffee tabletype book, illustrated on each of its 233 pages
with watercolour paintings.
The story was initially authored by Cao
Xueqin (1715-1763), who was an important
court official in the final years of the Kanxi
reign of the Qing Dynasty but who fell
from favour into poverty when a new ruler,
Emperor Yongzhen, punished his family
for supporting a rival in the fight for the
throne. In 1744 he began to write Dream, and
had finished 80 chapters when he died. The
final 40 were written by an unknown court
historian, using Cao Xueqins preparatory
notes.
After the book was published, many
artists painted illustrations of its stories and
characters in the accepted Chinese realistic
style using fine brushwork and bright
colours, and the paintings of the artist, Su
Wen, are considered to be among the finest.
The originals are at the Lushun museum in
Liaoning, China.

Coffee Tables, Vietnam-Style


If the above book whets your appetite, Tranh
Tho Viet Nam: Vietnamese Ceremonial Paintings
will put the icing on the cake. Its becoming
as scarce as hens teeth to buy, but a few
good used copies are available. Its another
coffee table-sized beauty that is in demand
by scholars, art historians and Vietnamphiles alike.
In the late 1990s, three Vietnamese friends
decided to try and preserve and collect both
antique and modern Vietnamese cultural
artifacts. Pham Duc Si was given the task of
searching for folk pictures, especially those
used in worship by ethnic people. He was
also tasked to collect Dong Son and Han
pottery and by 2009, when he published
this exceptional book, his collection of pictures
was extensive. The majority Kinh people
are well represented as are the Cao Lan, San
Chi, Dao, San Diu, Tay and Nung. A small
collection of wonderful wooden masks used
by the Dao Ho completes the handsome book.
The deities in the pictures are from the
Taoist belief system practised in northern
regions of Vietnam, where Taoists painted
deities instead of erecting statues to them, as
was the Chinese practice. In the past 60 years
the process of modernisation has resulted in
the loss or sale of many of the pictures, and
they are no longer painted. Thus Pham Duc
Sis collection is vitally important.

154 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

This month, Bookworms Truong gives his end-of-year picks


A Bumper Crop of Cookbooks
Collectors of another kind those that like
to stare at glossy food pictures have had a
bumper year with the release of several coffee
table-type food tomes about Vietnamese
food. One of the most famous Vietnameseoriented food writers is the handsome and
gregarious Luke Nguyen, whose books on
regional food are runaway bestsellers.
Luke is now seen everywhere that good
local food is grown, cooked, experimented
with and talked about in Vietnam and,
increasingly, internationally. However, most
of his legion of fans are not aware of the
book that started it all way back in 2007,
Secrets of the Red Lantern, which is named
after the Nguyen familys very upmarket
Vietnamese restaurant in Sydney, Australia.
The book was authored by Lukes
sister Pauline with the assistance of her
Australian husband, and chronicles the
Nguyen familys emigration in a leaky boat
to Australia via Malaysia in the turbulent
1970s.

What made the book so popular with


food porn addicts and the reason it was
awarded the Best Asian Cookbook award in
2008 were the recipes by Luke. Thus his
stellar career was launched and shows no
sign of deflating in the near future.

For the Youngins


Parents of littlies who havent discovered
the delightful books by Oliver Jeffers are
doing their offspring a disfavour. Jeffers is
considered to be one of the most original
and imaginative childrens book writers
and artists of our time, with several books
bound to become all-time classics in the
canon of kids literature. If you havent
come across any yet, try his 2012 book This
Moose Belongs to Me and be transported.
His latest is Once Upon an Alphabet: Short
Stories for All Letters. Its quirky, alliterative
and sometimes irreverent tales belong on all
home and pre-school bookshelves.
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com

Ho Chi Minh City


BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS //
THE EMPTY WOK // TOP EATS // A WORLD OF GOOD
PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,


Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point


Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon


Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG


BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com

COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND


DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office


Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com

GREY GROUP

led communications company helps brands connect


and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)


3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam

PURPLE ASIA

DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,


Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh


Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER


12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia


Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh


Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45


Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3925 2538
riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI


26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.

TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON
28th Floor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn

INSPIRED IMAGE
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu
Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905

156 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

prism.com.vn

ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM


161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL


38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884

TRACTUS ASIA LTD


164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com

XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE


2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign busi-

ness group established to


represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF


VIETNAM
25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 8430
bbgv.org

CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP


VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP


6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION


42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com

HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.

CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn

IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn

EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.

EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL


63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD


268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
management and exclusive
venues to make any kind of
event a success.

EXPAT SERVICES

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD


14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com

ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM


Bitexco Office Building, 7th
Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION
International Plaza Building,
Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM


Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom
Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.

CHUMS HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)


3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,


Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu


Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE


CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE


CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES

Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,


Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.

26th Foor, Saigon Trade


Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant

KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD


Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 157

HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF
PRODUCT MARKUPS

ith Christmas just around the


corner we consumers will be
at it again, making offerings
of our hard earned cash to
the retail gods. And while the standard
mark up in retail is around 100 percent,
there are particular products and services
that go much higher. So for this month I
will look into what areas have the highest
markup so you can know what to avoid
this silly season.
Across a range of industries the markup
on products and services can be quite
astonishing.
According to a report in the US, services
are normally marked up around 2,500
percent, education around 1,200 percent,
home and family products around 500
percent, food and drink at 1,500 percent,
health care at 1,500 percent (higher at some
clinics in Vietnam), electronics at 2,500
percent, entertainment at 1,000 percent
and fashion at 650 percent. Below are some
specific examples.

Puppies
The price difference between a pure breed
and a rescue puppy can be astronomical,
with the typical Humane Society dog in
the US costing around US$200 (VND4.2
million), and a pure breed US$3,000
(VND63 million). Markup 1,400 percent.

158 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Printer Ink
A famous comedian once joked this was the
most expensive substance on the planet, and
while this is not true the markup in retail is
pretty good. Markup 300 percent.

Furniture
Most furniture stores normally mark up
their inventories by a minimum of 100
percent. Thats one of the reasons why you
can see sales all year round on furniture and
mattresses. Branded furnitures markup is
even higher, so when they advertise up to
80 percent off sales, chances are theyre still
making a handsome margin. Markup 300
to 400 percent.

Restaurant Drinks
Wine. The average restaurant puts a
markup of 200 to 400 percent.
Domestic beer. Traditional beer has only
four ingredients, and with huge economies
of scale, the average beer markup is around
650 percent.
Coffee. Theres a whopping 2,900 percent
average markup when bought at the latest
trendy coffee shop, as compared with
making a similar brew in the comfort of
your own home.

Communications
Text messages were developed as a service

BY SHANE DILLON

by accident, after someone found the testing


platform was loved by consumers. But there
should be no when you realize the average
markup on your txts is over 5,000 percent.
Not to be outdone, there are several
electronic components that have huge
markup applied, including phone chargers
(600 percent), HDMI cables (1,800 percent)
and internet cables (4,500 percent).

Designer Clothes
When compared to a designer brand, the
markup on lingerie can be as high as 1,100
percent. The same with jeans, which are
usually marked up by around 600 percent.

Magic
But the products with the biggest markup
by far are the pseudoscience services and
products.
Power balance bracelets can be marked
up in excess of 5,000 percent, Psi bands
over 3,500 percent and biggest of all, the
crystal healing gypsum bracelet is marked
up as high as 2,000,000 percent. The average
bracelet costs over US$100 (VND2.1 million)
and contains only a few miligrammes of
gypsum. A tonne of the stuff costs about
US$30 (VND630,000).
Shane might still buy a puppy this Christmas
and wishes everyone a great 2015! He can be
contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

HCMC
advisory and other services.

IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com

SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.

SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM


8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.

LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES


VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
(ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.

Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827


7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI


MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.

CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;


27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in
Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes
for children ages two to five.
Known for unique facilities,
experienced staff, highquality learning resources,
and small class sizes.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE


Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL


KINDERGARTEN
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON


PEARL (ISSP)
92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh Tel: (8) 2222 7788
admissions@issp.edu.vn
The International School
Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an
elementary school, catering
for ages 18 months to 11
years. With over 90 percent
of teachers having achieved
Master's degrees, ISSP focus on a rigorous American
curriculum.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with their
surroundings, MIS offers
children from age three to 12
a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of
extracurricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL


CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL


SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2335

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF


VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 159

HCMC

JOB SEARCH

THE ASEAN ECONOMIC COMMUNITY PAIN OR GAIN?

et to begin in 2015, the ASEAN


Economic Community (AEC)
is expected to promote the
development of Vietnam GDP
growth to 14.7 percent by 2025
creating millions of new jobs. If Vietnam
remains unprepared in its education,
vocational training and upskilling for the
workforce, the country wont be ready to
take full advantage of the AEC launch,
compared with other countries.

The Impact of AEC


The launch of AEC could bring in foreign
investment and remove trade barriers,
accommodating the growth of the
economy and the job market. Vietnams
envious demographics and natural
resources have led to the expansion of
roles in the labour market and requests
for specialised skill sets. There is clearly
a need for improving the quality of
education and vocational training.
Compared to the past 10 years, Vietnam
is now seeing many new job requirements

160 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

in some industries such as construction,


transportation, automotives, IT,
healthcare and finance. The government
is doing its utmost to step up the
integration, and improve labour capacity
and job quality. They also need to work
with companies on new requirements
of education and vocational training in
order to meet future demands.

Protecting Migrant Labour


Alongside increased opportunities in
the job market, the AEC also allows
Vietnamese workers to go abroad
and work in other ASEAN countries.
Recruitment agencies will play a key role
in this international migration. There
are more than 170 recruitment agencies
in Vietnam exporting approximately
80,000 workers annually to more than 40
countries and territories across the world.
The number keeps increasing. However,
there are still some obstacles for private
employment agencies to perform in this
sector.

BY NICOLA CONNOLLY

Challenge for Private Employment


Agencies
Among the 174 licensed agencies working
in Vietnam, over 60 percent are public
employment agencies, which leaves
very little room for private employment
agencies like Adecco. Despite the fact that
the private sector could bring best practices
and improve the industry landscape, there
are still many restrictions that do not allow
them to enter into the licensing process in
this area.
The Code of Conduct (CoC-VN)
for recruitment agencies launched in
2010 is an appropriate tool to improve
compliance with Vietnamese legislation
and international standards for migrant
labour. Most of the private employment
agencies are now looking at improving the
licensing process, which would allow them
to step into the industry and promote its
development.
Nicola Connolly is the general director
of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the
European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam

HCMC
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from
elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multicultural
student environment and a
commitment to wellrounded
education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL


SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.

THE ETHICAL
INVESTMENT GROUP
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,


Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn

INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE


DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo


Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com

27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:


(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,


Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher

training and overseas study


consultancy and placement
services.

LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN


135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE


TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,


Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS

embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29


Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu


Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn

BAKER & MCKENZIE

G&H

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,


29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY


Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.


18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM


17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,


Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research spe-

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 161

HCMC

BODY

here is a culture or myth that in


fitness and sports performance,
MORE is better. Rest and recovery
are as of equal importance as
the training or workout portion of the
regime when devising a programme.
However, because people think they get
the training benefits by doing, they
often overlook or dont understand the
importance of rest and recovery.
Recovery is the key! Recovery is
critically important when applied to sports
training, because without it we do not
adapt physically to become fitter, stronger
or faster.
Something in our society, whether it is
in relation to sport or work, seems to make
us think that admitting we need more rest
is bad. If you are seen to train every day,
for example, then psychologically you
could look and feel stronger for it. If
you analyse how you really feel, though, it
most probably comes down to your mental
frame of mind. The thought, The harder I
workout or the more I do, the better! The
fact that working smarter not necessarily
harder will reap the most favourable
results, due to eliciting the most beneficial
hormone response or gene expression.
When we exercise, we dont get stronger.
When we exercise, we actually break
down our energy systems and muscles
and get weaker. The more exercise we do,
the weaker we can become and the more
susceptible we are to illness and injury
termed overtraining. For that reason,
gains in your fitness come from recovering.
Thus it is this combination of exercise and
recovery that brings you to your new level
of fitness. The diagram below illustrates the
basic concept of exercise adaptation:

Diagram 1: Adaptation to Exercise

From our initial fitness level we apply


a stimulus (weight training, walking,
sprinting, etc.), and as training is a
catabolic process our fitness level drops.
You effectively destroy or break tissue fibre
through the effort of working out. Our
body then requires rest, in which time the
body recovers (or rebuilds the damaged
tissue). The human body is an amazing

162 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

AND

RECOVERY

TEMPLE

creation and as the base level of fitness is


reached, it feels the need to compensate in
anticipation of the next training session;
this adjustment is what is known as supercompensation or over-compensation.
However, it is very important to note
that if there is too much of a stimulus, if the
training load is too great, then the body will
not adapt optimally. Likewise, if you do not
allow your body ideal conditions to recover,
especially at this time of year with all the
alcohol and late nights, as well as increased
end of year work load or stress you can
quite easily become injured or sick.
The body will respond best by
performing small bite-sized loads that
are pitched at the correct ability level of
the individual and then progressively
increase as the body slowly adapts. For
instance, a first-time weightlifter should
not be attempting to perform a maximal
strength programme before acquiring
the necessary stabilisation and strength
endurance competencies (periodisation
phases). Maximal strength exercises will
over-load the muscle and connective tissue
excessively and create a state bordering
injury rather than compensation.
If an individual does not allow their
body to recover and each additional
training stimulus creates a further decline
in fitness and performance (fatigued and
over-trained state).

BY PHIL KELLY

Diagram 2: Over-Training Model

People have different rates of recovery


and for this reason it is not possible for
anyone other than the individual to predict
recovery. There are basic guidelines to
follow but knowing when to rest/recover
depends on a large number of factors and
when performing at an advanced level, it
requires experience through trial and error.
The golden rule to follow is: if you honestly
feel tired, then take a rest. Dont carry out
your workout just because your programme
a piece of paper has it in the schedule.
There are many influencing factors placing
stress on our bodies and its important to be
flexible with your training routine.
Phil is founder & master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763,
at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through
Star Fitness starfitnesssaigon.com

HCMC
cialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.

TNS VIETNAM
58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh


Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level


4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com

PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10


Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1


Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1


Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com

Level 5, 273-273B Ben


Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS


7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1


saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP


81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1


Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1


Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com

RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT


656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC


1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD


xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

array of global workforce


solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM


CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective
and competitive service
suitable for many types of
business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)


5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY


Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS


1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM


396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com

SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn

ALLIED PICKFORDS

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,


Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5


Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international
moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural training,
immigration services and
records management. Email
Vietnam@santaferelo.com
for info.

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES


No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)


3822 1111
cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES


8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.

THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.

SERVICED APARTMENTS
SCORE-TECH
260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep,
Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.

Do you think you should be


listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 163

HCMC

COFFEE CUP
MERCI BOUTIQUE CAF

edged deep in an alleyway off


Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, between
District 1 and Binh Thanh, lies
a well-kept secret filled with
antiques, stylish garments and delicious
cuisine. Merci Boutique Caf welcomes
the wandering customer.
Merci serves not just as a caf but also as
a display for Ha Van Ngoc and his familys
passions. Ngoc and his wife, Ha have an
eye for antiques. Their oldest daughter Vy
is the chef and caf manager, while their
youngest, Van, has a knack for style and
fashion.

A Trip Through Time


For nearly 20 years Ngoc and his wife have
been collecting and selling antiques.
In the years after the American War,
many Vietnamese the boat people
fled the country on small, overcrowded
vessels. The couple held onto the items left
behind silverware, glassware, authentic
oil lamps, fans and sold the refurbished
pieces along Le Cong Kieu near the Fine
Arts Museum, also known as Antique
Street.
When we look at the antiques we can
feel the beauty and the historical value,
Ha explains. You can see the beauty and

164 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Francis Xavier

the soul of the antique, the story behind the


piece. It has lived so many years and it is
still here.
Although Ngoc and his wife stopped
selling their antiques nearly eight years ago,
their passion hasnt faded. Merci serves as
their own little antique shop with displays
of authentic Italian Marelli fans, oil lamps,
gramophones and more. Merci takes cafgoers back in time.

A Family Thing
Pulling the name from a Vietnamese
poem, Ngoc and his family wanted to
convey the feeling of being grateful for
things you have every day, regardless of
your wealth.
The story started when my parents
retired from Le Cong Kieu and moved back
to the house here. I quit my job, Vy quit her
job and we all decided to work together,
says Van.
She describes fashion and design as her
left-hand skill. Among the racks in the
back hang formal skirts, brightly-coloured
blouses and more subtle pieces. Evidence of
her designs are splattered throughout the
caf with her choice of French accents
pink, lush lounge chairs, deep royal purple
on the walls, lustrous wooden pieces a

perfect balance of chic yet comfortable


dcor.
As far as the food goes, their eldest
daughter, Vy takes the reins. With a
combination of western and Vietnamesestyle dishes from spaghetti Bolognese
(VND42,000) and French-style steak
and fries (VND40,000) to bun bo Hue
(VND38,000) her menu features fare for
all palates.
The entire family lives on the upper
levels of the caf.
Working together we can see each other
every day, says Van. Every day we have
breakfast, lunch or dinner together. We
can talk and we can share many memories
throughout the day. We are very close.
Since opening in February, Merci has
remained under the radar, mostly serving
family friends and the few residents who
happen to stumble upon them and want to
keep it hush hush.
Secret or not, Merci deserves to be seen.
Serving as a place to house these passions
and dreams, whether youre passing through
or looking for a quiet caf to escape to, Merci
will not disappoint. Rachel Cabakoff
Merci is at 93/15 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh
Thanh, HCMC. Visit facebook.com/pages/
Merci-Boutique-Caf for a sneak peek

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &


ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL


92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHYS TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAF

MINIMALIST CAF BAR


9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR


Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR


8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP


3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR


Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR
54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR


6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR


44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.

LAST CALL

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR


9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR


Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB


Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com

OBRIENS

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL


74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and
upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC


97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PARK LOUNGE

LOUNGE BAR & CAFE


Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam
Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

Huu
C
Ng
uy
en

Le

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Th
an
g8

Le
Lo
i

ng

Ng
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ue

Ham Nghi

District 2
t
Kie

n
Va

Vo

saigon.park.hyatt.com
An elegant, ground floor
venue in The Hyatt, perfect
for social and business
gatherings. As well as nightly
live music, serves afternoon
tea staples including warm
scones with generous portions of homemade jam and
clotted cream.

PHATTYS

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.

SAIGON RANGER

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT


5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point
for artistic activities, the
space at Saigon Ranger has
been established to create
encounter and dialogue between different forms of art.
Boasts concrete floors, dark
wooden furniture, quirky
wall designs and a stage for
live music and other types of
performance.

SAIGON SAIGON

cT
ha
n

Da
o

District
10

Ma

Du

h
an

Ng
uy
en

Ca
ch

Tr
u

Th
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an

Ba

Du

Bi
e

Ha
i

Hu
ng

LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

District 3

Kh
ai

Ph

APOCALYPSE NOW

FUSE

lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.

Tr
an

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR


58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.

To
n

Ho

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

DRUNKEN DUCK

an
g

in
h

en
Ti

BARS & CLUBS

Binh Thanh

in
h

HOTEL MUSIC BAR


9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 1923 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com

District 4

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel:
0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking
restobar with edgy dcor
and just a hint of Spanish
style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and
an emphasis on all things
Latin.

THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory
is now at a bigger space in
District 4. Complete with a
new balcony overlooking
the Saigon River and an even
larger sound system, The
Observatory is a key node
in the Asian underground
music circuit.

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR


24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious,
brick-wall interior, a long
bar, high table seating, big
screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for
a few beers and more.

VASCOS

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR


The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824


2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons
nightlife scene, Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs
patio, and an upstairs Blue
Room chill out lounge area
with regular live music.

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS


The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops
terrace is a popular after
work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10
wines by the glass, a range
of imported beer, and an
excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the
great selection of wines in
the shop and pay a small
corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR


70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907
890623

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 165

HCMC
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar
with all the shenanigans of
the nightlife scene set to a
backdrop of classic 60s, 70s
and 80s tunes. Has a darts
area out back and is a popular space for watching the
live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR


38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3968
With a huge selection of
self-imported wines from
Bordeaux, this classy but
contemporary venue is a
wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has
a French-Asian menu paired
to all the wines, with a huge
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR


13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving
30 wines by the glass, all
at reasonable prices. Has
an excellent food menu to
complement the old and new
world wines.

XU

CAF / LOUNGE BAR


71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its
cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR


19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting,
international tapas and a
laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar
on the river end of Dong Khoi.
Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM


AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with
good coffee and excellent
desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE


26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR


1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both
cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE


11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 5946
Conveniently located near
the Caravelle Hotel, this
casual cafe serves one of
the best lattes in town with
a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other
typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAF

FRENCH
5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 9117
Known for its fantastic
street-side seating opposite
the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out
caf will impress you with its
location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE


29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAF

INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3704
saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE


133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR


23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909
824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice

166 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

bar and caf dedicated


to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment
adds to the theme.

HAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE


11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

LUSINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE


109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.

M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

PLANTRIP CHA

TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung
Street, Q1
Tel: 0945 830905
Tea, tea and more tea, all in
a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha
customers go on a sensory
journey to experience the
tastes and smells of teas
from across Asia, Europe,
America and the Middle East.

THE MORNING CAFE


2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a

cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some


background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAF

INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES


ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY


9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR


Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY


35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.

GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND


TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR


85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of

casual and evening wear


fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.

saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE


Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE


BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com

IPA-NIMA

BOCONCEPT

LUSINE

DIABOLO

BAGS & ACCESSORIES


77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 5267

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE


1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8485

DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES


13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1803
9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm

LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM


Tel: 0909 042765
luxury-furniture-vietnam.
com
A complete and exclusive
range of furniture produced
by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also
in Europe (Austria, Denmark,
Germany, Italy, France).

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS


35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9459
8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS


69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,

HCMC
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn

EAT
3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCOS

INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced
comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN


17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and
juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and
green-tiled dcor.

BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1,
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just beneath Au Lac
Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic,
multi-ethnic Berber North
African and Mediterranean
cuisine cooked and served
in a traditional Algerian style.
Best experienced in a group,
this small but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners
genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan
wine, too.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza,
Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
intercontinental.com/saigon

BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis
newest creation, a convivial
restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh
products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish
dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers,
tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN


The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai
Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
8793
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the
Japanese-South American
fusion cuisine at Blanchy
Street is among the tastiest
and most unusual in the city.
All complemented by fresh,
contemporary decor and a
leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel:
0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI


7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 8549
Part of the Au Parc group,
this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at
excellent prices think
baguettes, wraps, focaccia
and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

Friendly staff and rustic


bare brick walls adorned
with Hollywood film legends
make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,
the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style
diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range
of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN


38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce

is thick and creamy and the


curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian in
town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMETS DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE


Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana
Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to
it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare
youd find on the street, and
then add in three types of
rice and a range of organic
products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com
binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1676
Highly rated restaurant
with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include
pink pomelo squid and crab
salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and
barbecue chicken in ginger,
onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 1101

HOGS BREATH CAF

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub
such as burgers, salads
and prime rib steaks with a
sports bar atmosphere, this
Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a
4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 0326

JASPAS WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,
the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.

KABIN

CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
815 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet
Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with
striking dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon
River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION


Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics
alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thais
creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 1036

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 167

HCMC

TOP EATS
NOIR, DINING IN THE DARK

he dining in the dark concept has


hit Saigon hard recently, with two
new theme restaurants opening
since September (Blackout
is the other, at 74/7D Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, HCMC, sharing space with La
Camargue).
Further down Hai Ba Trung lies Noir,
Dining in the Dark. Walking through
the front doors guests are welcomed by
a warm, ambient living room filled with
a fusion of French and Asian dcor
sophisticated yet comfortable.
With a combined 25 years of experience
in food and beverage service, Noir
owners Vu Anh Tu and Germ Doornbos
resums have included stints at Sofitel
Metropole and the Hilton Opera in Hanoi,
InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Vido
Group and more.
Soon they plan to open a well-lit
restaurant upstairs, featuring modern
Asian cuisine, available for lunch and
dinner.
Tu and I, we both had our jobs [until
recently], so we never really considered the
immediacy of starting our own restaurant.
We always wanted our own place but yeah,
when youre working for another company,
its kind of a dream.

168 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Francis Xavier

Noir Gives Back


In Vietnam, only 6.3 percent of people
who are visually impaired or blind have
a job, Germ says. In Europe and parts
of the US, blind people are a part of the
society. However, here in Vietnam it is very
limited. Theres still a long way to go.
Germ and Tu developed a two-and-ahalf month training programme for their
10 blind and visually impaired employees,
going over every aspect of Noir in detail.
Tu says, We really thought this was a
good opportunity for blind people and the
visually impaired to have a new kind of job
here in Vietnam.

Dining In The Dark


With the option of choosing two different
types of courses one from the East
incorporating dishes from Thailand, Japan
and Vietnam (VND480,000++ for three
courses, VND350,000++ for two) and one
from the West featuring classic European
dishes (VND560,000++ for three courses,
VND420,000++ for two) we decided to
go with the East.
Noirs chef, Ngo Thanh Tuan,
experiments with our four available senses,
fooling our palates with different flavours
and textures. Coming from a background

of five-star hotels and restaurants, its no


wonder the food is so mouth-wateringly
delicious. We wont spoil the surprise by
letting you in on the secret courses, but they
are indeed delectable.
After locking our belongings in a security
locker with surveillance, we were led into
a pitch-black dining room and guided to
our seats. Our blind server explained to us
where all of the dining items were placed,
entrusting us with real glassware and
utensils.
Is it pumpkin, carrot or no, no, no,
maybe its green bean? we heard the other
table say.
Our taste buds were awoken by different
spices, sauces and textures, as we tried to
guess which dish was which. The service
was faultless.
Since 70 percent of our senses is sight,
70 percent of the message sent to your brain
is from what you see, Germ says. If you
take some of these sights away and really
focus on the remaining 30 percent the
smell, taste, hearing and touching you
really get kind of wowed. Rachel
Cabakoff
Noir, Dining in the Dark is at 178 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, HCMC. For a sneak peek, check
noirdininginthedark.com

HCMC
LOLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.

LA BETTOLA

LITTLE ITALY
84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402
labettolasaigon.com
Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is
the only restaurant in town managed by two
Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a
stylish, elegant setting on the second floor
are part of the mix. As is the home-made
mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro,
tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is
made fresh every day. Has a great selection
of Italian wine.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION


40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs


bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA
MAY RESTAURANT
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4PS

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD


160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR


Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

OSAKA RAMEN
LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.

JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking
the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine,
the restaurant also features an impressive
breakfast menu.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 169

HCMC
PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO


21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up
classic Vietnamese cuisine
in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with
Propaganda Art murals and
prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden
and chic interior, Quan Bui
offers a wide selection of
Vietnamese cuisine which is
cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL


The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades
this popular French-style
bistro and wine bar which
once housed the citys
opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads
through to Mediterranean
influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING


3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19
Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAF

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Renaissance Riverside,
815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality,
with the bonus of being able
to watch the action on the
river sidewalk. Features

western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAIGON CAF

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com

astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant


and lounge brings to Saigon
the type of environment and
ambience youd expect of
New York, Singapore, Hong
Kong and Dubai. With the
dcor comes a modern take
on Japanese fare. A place to
see and be seen.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes
and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and a
main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.

SQUARE ONE
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL /
VIETNAMESE
First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
An atmospheric Ho Chi
Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic
Vietnamese and Western
cuisine offered from an
impressive display of integrated show kitchens to
serve guests in five different
dining areas. Open for lunch
and dinner.

TANDOOR
SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious
Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging
from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki,
a range of dips, mousaka,
osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE


Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this

170 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN


74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,
the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON


54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine
spanning the three linguistic
regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria
and Austria, this attractive,
two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer
cellar in the basement.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA
13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.

WRAP & ROLL


62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH


CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM


815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.


YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM


New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM


Level 5, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM


17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA


ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822


2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL
43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 0094

Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971


wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn

GYM, POOL, SQUASH


The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.

GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 3695
bluespacearts.com

DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades
by art collector Dominic Scriven,
the majority of the work comes
from the war period when provocative poster art was used to
inspire and motivate. Sells prints
of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM


97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY


129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE


ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI


1618 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious French
owned grocery shop stocking a
large range of foods, organic
fruit and vegetables, imported
beers and wines. Also sells
luxury branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch
serves tasty baguette rolls in a
comfortable lounge area with
free WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese and
cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829
3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices.
Wines come from all over the
world with an especially good
selection from France, Chile
and South Africa. Also has an
excellent range of single malts,
top shelf tequilas and has an
onsite wine tasting machine,
the Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
5404 3575
daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4376
kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914
1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 0021

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers
in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also
stock imported beers, bottled
mineral water and spirits.

VEGGYS

GROCERS & DELI


29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8526

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting
and tasting wines. Also offers
regular popular wine courses.
The outdoor terrace area is the
perfect spot to sample a new
vintage.

HAIRDRESSERS
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 6298

MEDICAL & DENTAL


ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC


Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL


(CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic provides general practice and a
range of specialties including
cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.com
Fullservice 24hour healthcare provider with highlyqualified doctors handling everything
from emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and outpatient care, checkups, travel
medicine and medical evacuations.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and
Vietnamese doctors provide the
full spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical
consultations.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS


Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian
managed SIAN Clinic offers a
wide range of skincare medical
therapies to treat problems by
an experienced dermatologist
and facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.

WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC


INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen
Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer
cosmetic and implant dentistry
with a focus on making each patients experience anxiety and
pain free.

INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with
aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in a
clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a good
reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely
haircuts from VND330,000 plus
a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MEKONG BLISS SPA


112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)

Q SPA & SALON


31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905
4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochine-esque
interior complete with wooden
floors, flowers and flowing
drapes makes this an excellent
atmosphere in which to enjoy a
massage. Also offers hair styling
and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY


23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is welldesigned,
ambient and outfitted day spa
offers body treatments as well
as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH


CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung &
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon

SALONS & SPAS


AQUA DAY SPA
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel
and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com

THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB


22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A
Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600
spa1960.vn

FAME NAILS SALON

THE SPA

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909


682 827
famenails.com

Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu


Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le
Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800
thespavietnam.com

GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown
spa, offers massages lasting
from 30 minutes, to two-hour
hot stone therapy, includes one
suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers
hand and foot care and a hair
styling area.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL


76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
hyattpure.com

HCMC

THE EMPTY WOK


QUESADILLAS WITH A TWIST

A food blogger and self-styled


chef, this month Riccha Arora
indulges her sweet tooth

A food blogger and self-styled chef, this month Riccha Arora unveils one of
her secret weapons

or me quesadillas are the perfect


food. This classic Mexican dish has
changed and evolved over many
years, as its experimented with
different variations. There's definitely
more to a quesadilla than just plain
cheese and tortilla. Heres my favourite
quesadilla recipe with a twist!
This pan-grilled chicken and
pineapple variation is a mouth-watering
combination of flavour explosions. The
ooey gooey goodness of melted cheese,
the heat from the jalapenos and Cajun
seasoning adds kick, while the sweetness
of the pineapple balances everything out.

Ingredients:
6 whole flour tortillas
300g of boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 cup fresh sweet pineapple, cut into wedges
1/2 cup of red bell pepper, chopped finely
2 jalapenos, deseeded and chopped finely
172 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photo by Francis Xavier

1 cup Monterey jack or cheddar cheese, grated


Cajun seasoning and salt, to taste
Cilantro, chopped finely
Tbsp butter or margarine

Start with the filling.


Cut the chicken breast into bite-size pieces,
add Cajun seasoning (cumin, garlic powder,
paprika, ground black pepper) and mix well.
Sizzle 1 tbsp butter in a non-stick
grilling pan, add the seasoned chicken
and grill on a medium-high flame until
the meat is half-cooked.
Next add bell pepper, jalapenos,
pineapple and salt. Grill for another seven
to eight minutes until the water from the
pineapple is dried (leave it uncovered).
Now place it all together in a bowl.

To assemble, take one tortilla at


a time.
Grease the tortilla with melted butter

or margarine.
Layer half the tortilla with the grated
cheese, chicken and vegetable mixture.
Only use about two heaping tablespoons
of filling per large tortilla.
The half-moon technique is easier to
flip than a quesadilla made with two
tortillas. Just spread your filling over half
of the tortilla, then fold the other half over
the filling.
Now heat the nonstick grilling pan and
lay down the filled quesadilla, flipping it
with a spatula under the open side.
Once the cheese is perfectly melted
youll know its ready.
Repeat the assembling procedure with
each quesadilla stopping when its hot,
crunchy and gooey. Dip it in your favorite
salsa or sour cream.
Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page
Sassy Kitchen facebook.com/pages/SassyKitchen/514471675341572

HCMC

pham ngu lao

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING


& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS

BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY
59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS


BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese


cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR


90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR
207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR


103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.

SPOTTED COW

CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS

INTERNATIONAL
45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAF

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE


213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.

BAM SKATE SHOP

THI CAF

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE


224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES


SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnam-

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 173

HCMC

TOP EATS
ROM BBQ

almost walk past the street-level


entrance to Rom BBQ, a Vietnamese
rooftop cook-it-yourself joint close to
Ben Thanh Market, perched on what
could be one of District 1s prime urban
mountaintops. At seven floors up its
more of a hillock, but bear with me.
With only a modest menu displayed at
the doorway to a dim, mostly shuttered
shopping arcade, we are grateful for the
uniformed employee dispatched to round
up the crane-necked folks like us shuffling
around the pavement.
After a quick ascent, the smell of
smoking coals and grilled meat hits us
as soon as the elevator doors open. With
barbecues come memories. For me, its
summer holidays as a child, my dad
standing with blackened fingers, a French
beer in one hand and tongs in the other,
the meat from the post-beach trip to le
supermarch sizzling away. Whatever
it conjures for you, theres something
uniquely comforting about caveman
cooking. Like sitting around a campfire or
sharing a fondue, its not just about food,
its an event.
Upon entering Roms partially covered
rooftop terrace, the carefully considered
design is immediately apparent. Modern,

174 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Glen Riley

polished concrete surfaces, contemporary


lighting and exposed ducting sit nicely
alongside the colonial era tiling and
industrial French caf chairs. Around the
buzzing space, soft plumes of smoke rise
from the mini barbecues set into the tables,
each one surrounded by large families or
groups of friends nattering away as they
tend to the bubbling hot-pots or crackling
meats before them.
A young couple sat on the periphery
gaze out at the moon and the city over
a bottle of wine. Taking in the best
that downtown Saigon has to offer, the
sweeping views are grand although
already tinged with nostalgia, as one
imagines the outline of another skyscraper
standing in the currently vacant plot across
the road.
But now we must eat.

Where Its At
Although hotpots are available, the clue
is in the name. The barbecue section of
the menu is where the fun is really at,
occupying several pages with a wide
variety of meat and seafood options. Along
with a side of zingy lemongrass rice and
assorted barbecue friendly vegetables such
as okra and sweet potato, we commence

proceedings with a combo platter. The


white hot grill is quickly loaded with
slithers of duck, goat, chicken and pork,
each marinated in a range of homemade
sauces the coconut milk and sesame
chicken in particular attracting multiple
nods of approval from the table. Tender
and flavoursome, the superb quality of the
meat is obvious.
After a refreshing round of top-notch
salmon wrapped in perilla leaves, we
move onto the beef. Skipping over
imported US steaks, ribs, kebabs and
tempting cheese/beef parcels, our fingers
land on the Kobe beef.
Opting for the friendly waitresss
recommendation of a five-spice seasoning,
the thin slices of perfectly marbled meat
arrive looking good enough to eat sashimistyle before theyve even touched the grill.
But touch the grill they do. Cooking in mere
seconds and taken with a scoop of lemony
rice, the combination puts me in meaty
heaven.
At VND122,000 a portion, its a steal.
Add a VND40,000 glass of draft Sapporo
and repeat as necessary. Simon Stanley
Rom BBQ is at Thanh The Plaza rooftop,
2-4-6 Luu Van Lang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City.
For more info, go to rombbq.com.vn

HCMC
themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.

CORIANDER

MARATHON

LA CANTINA

BUDGET CLOTHING
147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com

THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311

JJS FISH N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL


Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3837 0760

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3837 0760

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB


40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3508 3777
monuvn@gmail.com
Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This
side-street Indian serves
up some excellent fare at
reasonable prices, with a
number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE


SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS


209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780

EAT
BABAS KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN


164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL


124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902
714882

CHIS CAF

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.

VEGAN
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.

MARGHERITA

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3820 2620
9am to 10pm

TIN NGHIA

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES


CHINESE NOODLES
195A De Tham, Q1
tamhao.com
Nothing gets better than a
bowl of tasteful broth and
hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when its
from Tam Hao. Hip interior
design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but
non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE


144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.

WRAP & ROLL


226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 3248

ZOOM CAF

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.

GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.

Do you think you should be


listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 175

HCMC

A WORLD

OF

I FEEL YOUR PAIN

ver meetings with childrights partners who work on


anti-trafficking initiatives, I
was asked and not for the
first time why I do what I do (the
questioners naturally were in happy
favour of my altruism). But my answer
perplexed them greatly.
There seems to be a general confusion
around empathy and sympathy, and
altruism and compassion. At this time
of year and with that wretched save
Africa song braying about now is as
good a time as any to wade in and ruffle a
few more feathers.

What Empathy Is
Many say empathy is understanding or
perceiving accurately another persons
state, and sympathy is pity or sorrow
for that persons rotten luck. Problem is,
too many confuse the two and then muck
it up further by tossing in altruism as
synonymous for empathy and compassion
(more pity, by the way). I know, I
understand, I feel your pain. Blech.
How can you know me? Youre not me.
Altruism is unselfish concern for others
(sorry, impossible. Everyone is selfish).
However, did you spot the key word?
Thats right: pity. Blech. There is not a

176 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

single person on this planet trying to help


themselves and their communities who
wants your pity. What they want is your
respect, tolerance and fellowship.
Re-re-re-releasing a nasty little song with
odious lyrics to help Africa now fight
ebola is not empathy (no rain nor rivers
flow in Africa) or sympathy (thank God
its them instead of you) and it certainly
isnt altruism (spare a thought this
yuletide for the deprived). Its shilling for
ones career disguised as knowing whats
best to help those who apparently cannot
help themselves and all it takes is just
one thought about all those sad, poor
people (yes, the new lyrics were slightly
amended, but its still white saviour
drivel).
A handful of Anglo musicians cannot
speak for Africa no matter how much
Bono screeches about his philanthropy.
What you get is charity for Africa without
any Africans involved. A better response
is directing human or resource capital at
medical NGOs working in the field.

Its Understanding First...


Empathy means youre aware of others
feelings, and more importantly how they
perceive a given situation, because you ask
why. This appreciation of a persons point

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

of view or situation is without histrionics,


hypocrisy or judgement.
And the answer that annoyed my
questioners? Altruism is ones own need
to act and yes, provide temporary relief to
anothers suffering but it cannot solve
the systemic and structural injustices that
created the misery in the first place. That
requires empathy.
Empathy is really listening and
focussing when someone is speaking
(no simultaneous texting or emailing).
Empathy is being genuinely curious about
the people, places and situations around
you. You dont have to like them or it, but
you have to be sincere about being present
and willing to learn. As another example,
we dont need boys who are sympathetic
that a menstruating girl is being bullied at
school. We need those boys empathy to
stand up to the bully.
Definitions are tough. Your behaviour
is compassionate; hers is sympathetic;
his is altruistic. But at the end of the day
empathy says all views are welcome and
equal.
Peace.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

HCMC

district 1

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES


/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao

Binh Thanh

in
h

an
Tr
u

Th
i

ie
n

Le

Huu
C
cT
ha
n

ng

Th
an
g8

Le
Lo
i

ng

Ng
.H
ue

Ham Nghi

District 2

Hu
ng

Da
o

District
10

t
Kie

Tr
an

n
Va

District 4

Vo

BARS & CLUBS


BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL


37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE


Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views
alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped
bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering
holes in the city.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8605
hoavien.vn

vatory on the other side of


Pham Ngu Lao. Open late,
holds a number of nights
like Tropical Wednesday,
Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies night and
Underground Saturdays, all
in an attempt to pump things
up for the party seekers in
town.

BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB


56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5258
m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

Du

Ng
uy
en

Ma

Du

Ba

h
an

Ng
uy
en

Kh
ai

Ph
n
Bi
e

To
n

Ho

Ha
i

Ca
ch

in
h

en
Ti

District 3

an
g

REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Saigons first reggae bar
located close to The Obser-

CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such

as cold drip, siphon, and


Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.

BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN


159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 177

HCMC
Large portioned coffee
lures customers into the
flagship store of this international caf chain. The
contemporary, yet generic
atmosphere is bolstered by
comfortable seating and a
menu to satisfy any sweet
tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great
prices and food with daily
specials.

GIVRAL CAF

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com

I.D. CAF

CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

LAN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAF

FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.

while spending an afternoon


in this candy-land inspired
cafe.

phere. Subtle lighting and


an extensive wine list make
up the mix.

THINGS CAFE

CAF IF

1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,


Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.

COBALT

COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE


GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.

EAT
27 GRILL

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE


2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking

VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmos-

178 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.

6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)

Well-regarded clinic offering


general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.

QUAN UT UT

US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right?
American-style barbecue in
a contemporary Vietnamese,
quan nhau-style setting. Of
course it is, which is why
Quan Ut Ut is constantly
packed with grill-obsessed
diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue
and Platinum pale ale served
on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH


DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA


MONSOON

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.

STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

GALLERIES
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.

SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
re.com
MEDICAL

& DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS


99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545

SALONS & SPAS


CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa
include facial, body and foot
care, and Japanese-style
haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing
services.

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon
where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients the
opportunity to get their hair
done on the run. Of course,
they have to look fabulous,
too. Fortunately this is one of
Hair Bars specialities. Check
the salon out on Facebook:
facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910


5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.

HCMC
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

district 2

LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING


37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS


& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 2
Ni

Thao Dien

i
u

g
H n

hQ
Bn

Ng
uy
n

V
n

Xa

Binh Thanh

Ngu
i

n
i
N

Xun Th

y
Xun Th

BAKEUP ATELIER

BAKERY
244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.

VOELKER

BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.

BARS & CLUBS


BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE


55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.

Xa

DISTRICT 2
BMV PUB & GRILL
38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.

MCSORLEYS

IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR


188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative


design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.

Th

Ni
nh
Song H

Mai Ch

Tr

Hu Cnh

BAKERIES

g
n Hon

n
uy
Ng

No
Trn

Nguy

Xa

nh
Song H

n No

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS


80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

ng
H

ng
c H
Qu

y n Vn

Binh Thanh

Th

VESPA SHOP

Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512


3888

AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS


42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house

sewing room for cushions,


sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.

CHI LAI

HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.

FEELING TROPIC

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES


51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES
AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE


11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.

CAF EVITA

LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT


230A Nguyen Van Huong,

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 179

HCMC
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE

Tel: 0906 912730


www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare

CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747


www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

DOMINOS PIZZA

Tel: (08) 3939 3030


www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN

www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO

Tel: (08) 6660 1577


Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

www.hungrypanda.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants

KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999


www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000


www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388


www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795


www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH

www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOOS

Tel: (08) 3941 5433


www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles

VIETNAMMM

www.vietnammm.com
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.

GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
3 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9680
gayavietnam.com
Set in a typical suburban
villa, Gaya sells chic and
sophisticated indoor and
outdoor
sofas, rugs, lamps, jewellery, scents, bedding, lac-

querware and tableware,


all in a showroom-style
environment designed to
give you a sense of how to
construct that perfect interior. Also boasts a wine and
champagne bar that serves
up finger food, both indoors
and out front in the garden
by the pool.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT
AGNES CAF

CAF FARE / TEX-MEX


11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOM BOOM BURGER

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT


2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
532378
boomboomburgers.wago.co
A simple and tasty menu
similar to that of the USs InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom
Boom has chosen to focus on
the fundamentals of the perfect burger sweet potato
fries, jalapeno-infused beef
patties and special avocado
blends.

LA CLOSERIE DELISA

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT


52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the

180 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

heart of Thao Dien.

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /


SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Saigons longest running
Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a
special contemporary menu
that brings together a fusion
of European dishes, cooked
up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook.
com/Pendolasco2 for full
menu and info.

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION


38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS


49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA


AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn

CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
Experienced health coach
and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients
achieve health and weight
goals through an innovative
holistic approach of food,
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS


100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.

shop stocking a large range


of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER


No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS
CONCEPT COIFFURE

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel:
0947 77 13 26
Cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
features the same personalized mentorship Cyrils
clients love. Includes yoga,
boxing and fitness for kids
and adults every day. No
membership fees. Pay for
classes in installments of
10. Also has kids activites
classes. Monday to Friday
every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by
Cyril himself.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE


100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES


26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI


41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:


(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.

KIDS
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL


FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2000
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,

SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)


3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:


(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.


Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)


3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,


Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics

SAIGON TAX

Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.


Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:


(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.

SALONS & SPAS


AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao


Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,


Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

HCMC
ing renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /


CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.

Th
n

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE


6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE


224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323

MUSIC BAR / CAFE


39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com

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Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.

ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822

4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM


ANS INTERIOR CAF

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WOODSTOCK BAR

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BARS & CLUBS

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BAM SKATE SHOP

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:

SKATEWEAR / STREET
148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel:
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

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CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

District
10

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District 1

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TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.

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Binh Thanh

DISTRICT 3

OPERATION: TEAROOM

(08) 3823 3398

BUDS

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seat-

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living
space of your home? Come
to ATC FURNITURE, you will
find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas,
chairs, beds...) manufactured
from eco-friendly materials
(water hyacinth & rattan). Our
outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited
to your balcony or garden
space. A hanging (hammock)
chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long
day at work.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 181

HCMC
SPORTS

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF


SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN


SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON


CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA


CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)


Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)


Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500


171.
astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB


RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com

SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS


LEAGUE
thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE


saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL


CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE


70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)


7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com

WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn

SQUASH

PHO HOA

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc


Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB


436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230


vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van


Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com

gauloisdesaigon.com

XROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,


Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

BANH CANH HOANG TY

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade, Au
Lac Do Brazil is home to the
city's best Churrasco menu
with a wide variety of meats
from Calabrian sausage
and picanha through to
D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme
in Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.

182 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue,
with excellent food.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE
187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA


MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com

HAIRDRESSERS
YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel:


(08) 3829 2791

MEDICAL & DENTAL


STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC


2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC


CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee

DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING


189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER


37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE


94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON


19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM


55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB


38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY


28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com

HCMC
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL


CLINIC

phu my hung

PANORMA FITNESS

L in
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS


206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com

gB
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Do you think you should be


listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best

n
Ti
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nD
T

Ng

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel:


(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com

Ph

YKC SPA

n
T

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao


Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com

H Huy Tp

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

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SALONS & SPAS

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Nguyn c C

EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3932 6579

n
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Nguyn Vn Linh

GYM, POOL, SQUASH


3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.

Nguyn
ng Ch

Ng

Linh

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

n
uy
Ng

Nguyn Vn

DISTRICT 7
BAKERIES
LAMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE


Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS


BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer

MEDICAL & DENTAL


AMERICAN EYE CENTER

PHU MY HUNG

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL

ng
yn
Ch

N gu

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC


MEDICAL CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS


99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC


167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC


167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.

South sets this joint apart.

with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries


to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900

mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org

EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.

EL GAUCHO

CRAFTS & FURNITURE


BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS


35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758

PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE


23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555

NATHALIES

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR


R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.

HOANG YEN

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.

THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com

SCOTT AND BINHS

INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS


R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh
As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a
selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who
dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not
presently available in Saigon

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,


105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 183

D Tic Cng

Beckham

Ngoi ph kia vi mt huyn thoi v Niko Savvas

i ngi c bit David Beckham n


Vit Nam vi tun trc? Khi ti bit
iu y, ti rt phn khch. Mt anh
chng tng cho i Los Angeles
Galaxy bn thng khng thy nhiu ngh s
nh th Si Gn!
Anh y c mt ti Chill Sky Bar qung b
cho mn ung mi ca mnh. Ti thch ung!
V ti cng thch tic tng, nhng khng ngh ti
c th c tham d s kin ny. Bn cn mt tm
v c bit c tham gia, v bn ch c th c
tm v ny khi bn l ngi quan trng.
Ti khng phi l ngi quan trng g c,
nhng bn thn ti Ed li khc. Anh y l mt
bin tp vin cho mt tp ch siu quan trng
(chnh tp ch ny!). Ed rt quan trng, s tht l
anh y kim c hai tm v. Anh y a mt
v cho ti!

Nhp Tic

Khi chng ti n qun bar, c rt nhiu ngi


ch bn ngoi. H khng c v nn khng c
vo. Nhn vin bo v c chm ch vo h. Nhng
khi Ed v ti xut hin vi cp v c bit, h cho
chng ti vo. Cho VIP vo no!
Chng ti i thang my ln tng thng, v
nhng ba tic hay nht lun c t chc ti
tng thng ny. Bn c th thy c ton cnh
thnh ph t ch ny. Chng ti nhn thy mt gia
nh ngho ang xin tin l bn gc ng, nhng
cnh nhn tht bun nn chng ti quyt nh
lm vi ly.
Ti c ni loi ung , hay cn gi l
whiskey, c pht ung min ph cha? i vi
ti v Ed l nh th. Chng ti c ng con du
d quang trn tay, v vy chng ti khng phi tr
tin cho bt c ci g. Mi ngi ai cng tht d
thng vi chng ti khi h thy hai con du ca
chng ti.
Nhng ngi khc phi tr tin cho thc ung
ca h bi v khng c con tem ny. Nhng Ed v
ti th c min ph nguyn mt chai ca nhn

184 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

hiu m Beckham ang qung b! cng c


pht min ph cho nhng ngi quan trng.
David Beckham xut hin lc khong 11 gi m.
Anh y tht p trai. Bn c th hiu ti sao c nng
Posh Spice li chu ly anh. Hnh dng c th anh
mang hnh ch V vi mt mi tc hon ho.
Mi ngi tht s ho hng c gp g anh y.
Cn phng bng dng trn ngp nh n camera
v ting reo h ca cc qu c. Ti thy chng
mt, sut t nho xung t. Cm gic ging nh
ng kinh nhng vui hn nhiu! Mt g Vit Nam
tc bm nga lm ru scotch ln khp b vest
ca ti.
Xin li ng, ti ngh l ng va ru," ti ni.
Im ming i, anh ta p tr.
Hahaha! Tic ca ngi ni ting i khi in
th!

Ho Hng Cho n Cc Ngi Sao

Ti c gng cho Beckham, nhng mt trong nhng


v s ca anh chn ti li. Anh chng ny nhn nh
cu lnh nhy d, hoc c th l dn MMA.
c ri, bn , ti c con du ny!
Nhng anh ta chng nhc nhch. Nhc kh ln
nn c l l anh ta chng nghe ti ni g. Tht ra,
anh ta c mt vi ngi i qua. C th h c
con du loi khc, quan trng hn.
Ri mt ngh s Vit Nam trong chic qun
soc trng bt u biu din. n lade v pho
sng khp ni. C ta p tuyt! Ti cng mun
cho c y nhng anh v s kia cng khng ti
vo khu vc ban cng.
Trng ti ging ai, mt trong nhng ngi ch
mn mi khng c ng du ngoi kia?" ti hi,
nhng chng ai nghe.
Na m, Beckham ri tic. Tt c chng ti
xp hng cho tm bit anh. Ai cng vui mt
trong nhng v s ca anh thm ch cn p cao
tay vi ti khi i ra ngoi! Ti c gng chp hnh
lc y, c v hi qu, nhng ti bit l anh y l ai.
Bn chng lm c g ngoi vic tr nn ho
hng cho n cc ngi sao!

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 185

Hotdog Ny Ca Ai?

H Ni va xut hin mt mn n ng ph mi v n l mn ca an Mch

Hnh nh bi David Harris

t loi sandwich tht va xut hin trn


th trng, chim ch mn bnh m
Vit Nam quen thuc.
Jeppe Haugstrup, mt lp trnh
vin vi tnh t an Mch v l mt trong
nhng ng s hu ca Spy Bar v Tay Tap,
ang trong giai on hon thin mt mn n
c xu hng mi l hotdog an Mch v s tn
cng vo cc con ng H Ni.
Mc tiu chnh l khai thc nhu cu
sandwich tht mt mn vn cha ph bin
Vit Nam. Nhng Jeppe hy vng mn n nhanh
ca mnh s l mt tc ng thay i cuc chi.
Ngi Vit Nam ngy nay kim c tin
nhiu hn v chng ti tin rng s c mt nhu
cu ln cho nhng sn phm cht lng cao
nh ca chng ti. Mn hotdog an Mch s
c tp trung vo hng v hn l thnh phn
bnh m, Jeppe cho hay.
Soren, mt ngi bn c t an Mch v
l mt thng li tht, c cng quan im vi
anh. Trong mt m say ng ng Manila,
b i ny tng kinh doanh v ch bin
hotdog an Mch ch thc H Ni. Hai
thng sau vi cng tng trong m say
tht s, chng c th l mn hotdog ngon nht
gi y n tr thnh hin thc.

186 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Loi Tht Cht Lng Cao

Bin mt trong gian bp ca Spy Bar, Soren tr


li vi mt mu giy mu nu vung vc gi
mt trong nhng sng to tuyt vi ca mnh.
Gii thch cho ti mt cch cn k, anh ni so
vi nhng loi xc xch hotdog thng thng
nhng loi thng c hm lng protein thp, xc
xch ca chng ti cha 80% l tht v chng ti
ch s dng loi tht cht lng cao.
Chng ti cng khng s dng cc cht to
gi mi v v xc xch c lm ra theo cng
thc ring ca chng ti t tht heo, tht b, gia
v v nhng thnh phn c bit khc to s
khc bit, anh cho hay, mt long lanh.
i km chung vi mn xc xch an Mch
honh trng ny l g? Mt lp hnh chin,
hnh sng, v loi nc st ch thc ca an
Mch c tn gi l remoulade (mt hn hp t
tng c chua, m tt, dm, rau v cc gia v),
x-lch da leo, tng c chua v mt t m
tt. V trn ht l hai ming bnh sandwich
nh nhn gn gng, c lm cho a con tinh
thn ca Jeppe v Soren.

Sn Sng

c cuc th nghim vi loi xc wiener an


Mch ca mnh vi nhng khch hng ti Spy Bar,

b i hy vng s t t y cc xe hotdog ca mnh


trn khp khu vc ph c H Ni.
Chng ti dnh mt thng ri
nghin cu pht trin iu ny v mi ngi
thch chng. Chng ti tht s mun chc chn
l chng hon ho, Jeppe tm s vi mt sn
phm ca mnh trn tay, mt cch y nghim
tc. c ngi t hng chng ti theo kilo
v chng ti hy vng mt ngy no chng
ti c th pht trin kinh doanh n cc khch
sn v nh hng.
Soren cn ni thm: Chng ti cng ang
nghin cu thm loi xc xch thng hng vi
c chua phi kh v -liu, cng nh xc xch
v xc xch bratwurst ca c.
Gi y, hotdog tr thnh mt xu hng
v bn c th mua mt trong nhng mn ngon
tuyt ny ti Spy Bar vi gi 35,000 ng/mt
phn. Nhng ng ngc nhin nu bn thy
chng M My trong mt tng lai khng xa.
Vy tc gi nh b ca bi vit ny c th ni
g v mn n 100 tui c hon thin bi hai
chng an Mch vm v ny?
Ti s n thm hai phn na, cm n.
David Mann

02,03,05,06
STABIL ELITE

Bn c th xem h nh l s kt hp gia
nhm Cut Copy v nhm Kraftwerk mt tri
nghim vi dng nhc dance kt hp Krautrock
y m hoc do cc ngh s chi nhc c nghim
ngh v n mc chn chu. V l dng nhc in
t, nn h khng c bit ti nhiu y
l l do v sao vin Goethe-Institut thc hin

THNG 12

H NI / NNG / TP. H CH MINH

chng trnh ny gii thiu v h. H s biu


din tm ngy trong thng 12 ti H Ni, Nng,
Tp. H Ch Minh, Phnom Penh v Manila, em
n cho chng ta mt cht kin thc v dng nhc
pop in t t ni n c sinh ra.
Stabil Elite s biu din ti Nh Ht Tui Tr H
Ni ti 11 Ng Th Nhm, Hai B Trng, H Ni vo

BAY TRC TIP TI N

07-16

THNG 12

L HI KHIU V QUC T 2014

Hy chun b khiu v cung nhit bi v L


Hi Khiu V Quc T tr li ln th hai
Tp. H Ch Minh. Nm nay, s kin ny c s
tham gia ca cc bin o ma v v cng t ,
Php, Nht, Hn Quc, Israel, Thy in, Vit
Nam v Philippines. L hi s gii thiu ba mn
trnh din ti Nh Ht Thnh Ph (16/12) v
GEM (12 - 13/12). L mt phn ca l hi, mt
lot cc hi tho v ma ng i tip cn vi
cng chng s c t chc t ngy 7/12 n
16/12 ti cc a im khc nhau.
L hi c t chc bi Arabesque vi s
cng tc ca Saigon Concert v Dancenter.
bit thm thng tin chi tit cho cc show din v
hi tho, xin gh idf-hcmc.org

Sau chuyn thm gn y ca cc chc sc n


ti Vit Nam, hng Jet Airways ca n
chnh thc khai trng ng bay trc tip
ni lin New Delhi v Mumbai n Tp. H Ch
Minh thng qua Bangkok. H cng ang m
rng cc chuyn bay lin kt ca h ti H Ni.
Theo i S Qun n ti Vit Nam, s
ra mt ca cc chuyn bay trc tip s gp phn

05-28
CH NGH THUT H NI

THNG 12

Ly cm hng t ch truyn thng ca Vit Nam


v khi nim ch ngh thut t cc nc khc,
mt nhm cc ngh s tr ngi H Ni n
vi nhau to ra Ch Ngh Thut H Ni ln u
tin Vit Nam.
c thit k tr thnh mt din n, ni
nhng ngi yu ngh thut c th gp g v ni
chuyn trc tip vi cc ngh s, v hiu thm v
ngi ngh s, tc phm ca h v quyn s hu

ngy 2/12 lc 20:00 i Hc Nng ti 131


Lng Nh Hc, Qun Cm L, Nng vo ngy
3/12 lc 20:00 Cao ng Bch Vit ti 194 L
c Th, G Vp, Tp. H Ch Minh vo ngy 5/12
lc 20:00 Nh Ht Bn Thnh ti 6 Mc nh
Chi, Q1, Tp. H Ch Minh vo ngy 6/12 lc 20:00.
bit thm chi tit, xin gh goethe.de/vietnam

thc y hp tc gia Vit Nam v n trong


cc lnh vc khc nhau, c bit l trong ngnh
du lch. Vit Nam Airlines v Vietjet Air d kin
s sm bt tay t chc cc chuyn bay trc tip
n n .
bit thm chi tit v cc chuyn bay n
Vit Nam ca Jet Airway, xin gh jetairways.
com/EN/VN/Home.aspx

trc tip ca cc tc phm ngh thut, tc phm


ca 59 ngh s s c bn ti Hng Da Galleria
khu ph c t 5/12 n 28/12. Xut hin vi
mt lot cc tc phm tranh v, tng, ngh
thut sp t, sn phm th cng m ngh v
nhiu hn na ch ngh thut ny l sn phm
ca Nguyn Hng Phng v Trn Dn cng s
hp tc ca Cuci Fine Art .
bit thm chi tit, xin lin h V Qunh Hoa
theo s 0903 745 657 hoc email theo cucifineart@
gmail.com. Hang Da Galleria nm gc ng
gia Hng Da v ng Thnh, Hon Kim, H
Ni

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 187

The final say


THE FINAL SAY

VIETNAM

The Inside Story


of the Guerrilla War
Chapter 3: Hide and Seek

For the next 13 issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchetts
seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett
was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the
early 1960s. This work was written in 1964
From the Authors Forward
Apart from my general interest in the peoples
of the former states of Indochina and my
special sympathy for the South Vietnamese
people in their heroic struggle, I had an
important, added reason to visit the Liberated
Areas and battlefronts of South Vietnam
during late 1963 and the first three months of
1964.
The United States is experimenting with

188 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

a new type of warfare in South Vietnam, socalled special warfare, the theoretical father of
which is General Maxwell Taylor.
Maxwell Taylors thesis was that in this
nuclear era, the United States must prepare to
fight three types of war global, nuclear war;
limited or local wars; and special wars. The
special thing about the latter is that US combat
troops are not involved.
I went there to find out on the spot what

was really special in this new military concept


and what were the special means the South
Vietnamese people had in countering its
strategies, tactics and techniques.

Liberation Intelligence
One thing that constantly astonished me
was the absolute precision with which
the Liberation Front forces operated. The
contact to steer us past enemy posts was

always waiting behind the right tree at the


right time; a tiny signal light would wink
at us out of the jet black night at the very
moment the second hand of the watch
moved up towards rendezvous time, a
winking point of light that could be taken
for a firefly unless one knew it should
be there at that precise time and place.
The sampan was always where it should
be to cross a stream in enemy-controlled
territory; the barbed wire was always cut
within yards of the rendezvous point to
cross a strategic highway; the guide to the
secret tunnels never failed to be when and
where he should be.
A more important example was the
precise information the Front military
cadres had, not only about their

adversarys movements, but his intentions.


At some point along the jungle track,
or canal, or mountain trail, whoever
happened to be chief of the group would
suggest a rest. Within minutes, a partisan
invariably appeared with one of those tiny
envelopes already mentioned. I quickly
developed a great affection for them
because they brought us continuous news
of what the adversary was up to.
Sometimes, especially in the Saigon
area, these little notes caused us to change
our travel plans abruptly. After studying
such a note, the chief of the group would
pull out what looked like a small pack
of playing cards and in consultation
with whoever happened to be the guide
through that particular area a guerilla

who combined the duties of mail courier


with that of guiding cadres past enemy
posts the group chief would thumb
through the cards, checking them carefully
with the news in the letter and selecting
one with which the guide agreed.
The cards were covered with letters and
numbers and one would think at first,
by the intense, serious expressions, that
some game for very high stakes was being
played. In fact, the numbers and letters
were coded symbols for every road and
track, every stream and canal in the region
through which we were passing. Each
card represented a different combination,
all the possible variants of moving from
point A to point B. According to news of
the adversarys movements, the card was
chosen and liaison established with the
guerillas whose territory we would be
traversing.
On one memorable occasion a tiny
envelope arrived and faces were more
serious than usual as the contents were
perused. It was the evening before we were
to leave the Saigon-Gia Dinh area and head
off to the northeast. In two days time,
explained the area military commander,
the enemy will start a big mopping-up
operation, employing five battalions, about
4,000 men. This operation will take place
in the very area you have to traverse; they
will occupy the roads you have to travel or
cross; their patrol boats will be active on
the rivers you have to travel on. It will last
four days. We propose that you stay here
where we can protect you.
Sure enough, two mornings later,
there was great activity by planes and
helicopters, mesdemoiselles buzzing around
from the first streak of dawn, seeking
out targets for the bombers. Whatever
information they signaled back, I could
never even guess. But by 8am two B-26
bombers came over and started a raid that
lasted four hours. They stuck to a single
flight circle, dropping a few bombs each
time they came round.
My interpreter, an expert on the
direction of shells, now proved his merits
by estimating the flight of the bombs.
As the planes came round, he watched
them with an eagle eye, reporting when
the bombs were leaving the bomb bays
and whether they were coming close
enough to jump into the shelter or not.
The bombs were always whooshing down
as we jumped and the fearsome crash of
the explosions about us coincided with
the thud of our feet into the shelter. We
avoided going in as much as we could,
because the earth ceiling was covered
with long-legged spiders, the shock of the
explosions invariably detaching some of
them on to our necks.

The Tunnel System


In mid-afternoon, envelopes having
poured in all day, one arrived with the
information that Saigon troops had pushed
down and occupied a road only a half mile
distant, so I and a few members of our

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 189

group were to be hidden in a secret tunnel.


The others had to get ready for military
affairs. Five battalions were being
employed, as the warning had predicted,
and were accompanied by 23 M-113 tanks.
Artillery and mortar shells were coming
quite close and there was an alarmingly
sharp rattle of machine gun fire, as we
were guided through a patch of rubber
trees to a square manhole through which
we dropped in my case squeezed
down into a tunnel.
Such tunnels are not built for my size;
where others double up and walk I could
only crawl and for a few moments I had
a feeling of claustrophobia. I have always
had a secret dread of being underground
in a confined space and have marveled that
anyone could choose mining as a life job.
Breathing was difficult at first because our
group was huddled together, all breathing
heavily after the exertions of getting
ourselves and our baggage into the tunnel.
Later, when the rest of the party moved
off in the direction given by the guide, the
air got better and I found, stretched out on
the ground, that breathing became normal
again.
There were moments, however, when I
felt I must burst out of that manhole again
at all costs... There were miniscule worms
in the ground, no bigger than a speck of
dust, which manage in a surprisingly short
time to burrow into the skin, causing a
prickly feeling when one touches the spot.
This was explained to me when I started to

190 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

scratch. Apart from the irritation, it seems,


they do no harm. Someone brought me a
nylon sheet to lie on and all but the early
worms were frustrated, but those that
did burrow in stayed with me for several
weeks.
The noise of battle was somewhat
muffled here but distinct enough for me to
know that it was quite close and moving in
our direction... While I was still squeezing
myself down through the manhole, there
had been another sharp burst of machine
gun fire very close, I judged not more
than 100 yards, immediately followed
by several carbine shots within 20 or 30
yards. I thought the shots were aimed in
our direction, that the Saigon troops had
infiltrated and thus must have sighted the
hideout.
In fact, as I discovered later, a patrol
had come within a few hundred yards; the
Front forces had given them a few bursts
of a heavy machine gun, the carbine shots
were fired as warnings to us by sentries
who had also sighted the patrol.
I was then guided a few score more
yards along the tunnel to a place where
there was a tiny, horizontal air hole,
leading from the tunnel into an abandoned
spiked trap. I lay with my face close to
a marvelous flow of air and dozed off
to sleep; the rippling crashes of artillery
seemed to have receded a bit.
I was awakened by the interpreter
shaking my shoulder and bringing news
that after suffering some casualties, the

Saigon troops had pulled back a few miles.


We could emerge into the fresh air for a
while. Envelopes converged on us from all
directions, confirming that about an hour
before sunset the adversary was licking
his wounds and had dug in about three
miles distant. After much consultation, it
was decided to shift our position to a point
a bit further from the enemy and where
there were more comfortable tunnels and
first-class air-raid shelters.
So we set out for a brisk hours march.
When we arrived at the spot, on the banks
of a fairly big river, urgent discussions
again took place. There was the disturbing
noise of a motor of some sort of heavy
river craft, not too far downstream from
where we were. Within minutes an
envelope had arrived with the news that
an American landing craft was moored at a
wharf about a mile downstream, with the
motor running and only the crew aboard.
There are two possibilities, said the
military chief after consultations were
completed. Either that landing craft is to
ferry the troops back to their base, or it is
waiting to take troops aboard for a raid
into this area. I think the second is more
likely as the operation should continue
three more days according to original
plans. So we must move you again.
It was a splendid moonlight night and
we were soon on our way, marching over
rice fields, the short, dried stubble pricking
at our feet through the open sandals. After
we had marched quickly for half an hour,

we could hear the landing crafts motor


revving up and it was clear it was under
way, heading in the direction we had just
left. Almost immediately salvos of shells
started coming in our direction and we had
to throw ourselves on the ground for the
bursts, keeping on the move in between.
After a good three hours march, with
the shelling providing the only rests, we
slung our hammocks in a thick belt of
forest, my own trees being on the edge
of a crater from a 1,000-pound bomb.
Half an hour after we arrived, there was
one sharp burst of automatic fire in the
distance. Later, an envelope arrived with
the news that a cadre, following the path
we had taken, was surprised by a patrol
from the landing craft and was killed with
a burst from a tommy gun.

Military Manhunt
Early next morning the operation was in
full swing, the main body of Saigon troops
having moved into the area. Mesdemoiselles
were soaring overhead like wasps, trying
to spot defense positions and direct
artillery fire. It was easy to distinguish
the attackers artillery, mortar and long
bursts of machine gun and automatic fire
from the lighter, shorter bursts from the
defenders automatic weapons and single
shots of rifle fire.
The guerillas never like to fire a single
unnecessary shot cartridges are too
precious. It sounded like a terribly unequal
combat with bombs and shells thundering

down in between the exchanges of the


lighter weapons. But the guerillas do not
accept battle on the adversarys terms.
They slow them up, make them pay a little
and then fade out. When they give battle,
it is on their terms and not too close to
populated areas. And this was what was
happening now.
What about the artillery and mortar
fire? I asked. What are they actually
shooting at?
Sometimes they spot some of our
defense positions, the area commander
replied, but more often they just bomb
and shell blindly at any patch of forest or
bamboo, at anything they suspect might
be sheltering people. And half the time
I think they shell to try and inject some
morale into their troops. They must have
long given up any idea that the noise
terrifies our people; theyve had too many
experiences that prove the contrary.
As the artillery started up again after
an hours relative peace, I listened to the
11am news from Radio Australia and heard
a Reuter dispatch: Senior US officers and
high-ranking Saigon government officials
are demanding that the war should be
extended to Communist North Vietnam
to offset Viet Cong pressure in South
Vietnam. The rest of the broadcast was
blocked out by two dive-bombers roaring
down in an attack about a half-mile away.
They each made three dives, releasing
two half-ton bombs each time. In a fourth
dive, they released rockets and fired their

machine guns.
Later in the day, when things got a bit
quieter, some of us went to see the results.
A delegation of US taxpayers would have
been impressed! There were 12 craters
spread over a strip of jungle about 300
yards long by 100 yards wide and some
holes not more than three inches deep
with remains of rockets around them. The
target was a tiny patch of jungle track that
showed through the trees, on which one
bomb had squarely landed. Perhaps there
had been a column of troops passing? I
thought, but a check was made. Nobody
had been in the area and troops in any case
would have been well under the trees with
planes about. It would take the guerillas
five minutes with their knives to hack out
a new bit of track around the water.
Its typical, said the area commander
when we reported back. Theyll bomb
and strafe for hours at any tiny bit of track
they see. Every day there is this fantastic
waste of shells and bombs.
Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter
often described at the rebel journalist for
his stories about the American War from the
other side. After years of being at odds with
the Australian government, last month the
Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their
Hall of Fame. Burchett was also the journalist
who broke the scoop of the 20th century the
devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs
on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Special thanks to George Burchett for
allowing us to republish this work

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 191

192 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

THE OVERSEAS EXPERIENCE

AUSTRALIA

The Far Side


At home in Adelaide, Jon Aspin takes a look at the Vietnamese experience.
Photos by George Tan

eve all experienced it. Invest


your time, money or energy
into just about anything, and
from then on its characteristics
will have a tendency to reappear. Its a
concept advertisers rely on. For those
of us who return home from Vietnam
for example, signs for the best bun cha
in town will now turn up. Packaged
holidays to Cat Ba will shout at you
and cheap TV featuring bikers smoking
opium and celebrities eating spiders will
suddenly invade your schedule.
On a recent trip home, it happened to me
quite simply when I realised that all around
me there were students in my city, and that
some of them were Vietnamese! Of course
theyd always been there, but Id been
ambivalent uninvested. So in the spirit of
friendship I set out to meet some of them, and
maybe find out how the life they were living
now compared to what had gone before.

International Student of the Year


Meet Nguyen Trong Nghia. Hes living what
you could consider the holy grail of studying
abroad. The diminutive 24-year-old from
Dak Lak Province, near Buon Ma Thuot,
has a full tuition scholarship to Adelaide
University in Australia. This year he began
his PhD in Electrical Engineering and my
first question was to ask him whether he
could confirm the disciplined reputation of
the Vietnamese student. He does smiling.
For me it wasnt too hard, he says, only
a hint of sarcasm in his voice. I went to a
gifted public school where I concentrated
on maths. I liked doing maths, physics

and chemistry, so I just had to get through


everything else and concentrate on my
areas.
It paid off. Nghia scored a 30/30 on his
entrance exam and was awarded a full
government scholarship for his first year of
overseas study around A$25,000 (VND469
million) worth. Before arriving he completed
his first year of undergrad work at Bach
Khoa University (Ho Chi Minh University
of Technology) and then came to the relative
hamlet of Adelaide, where the scholarships
have continued. Before he left, he spent
a month honing his English at a private
language school, and now, four years later,
he speaks with eloquence and only minor
grammatical error.
When I meet him he appears like any
other member of the student population.
Delve deeper however and you find a
list of honours to make most of us feel
like underachievers. Nghia has won the
Governors award for academic excellence
the modestly titled International Student of
the Year award not once but twice, in 2011
and 2012. The first year I got an iPad, he
says laughing, and the second time I got an
iPad and a free flight home!
So what of the differences between life
in Vietnam and Australia? As you might
expect from a PhD candidate, his response
focuses on the academic. Studying here is
good because of the technology available,
he says. In Vietnam this is not established
yet, and this is the main difference for us
students we can do experiments and test
our theories. Vietnam is still a young country
in this regard, but right now instead of

building hotels and resorts, they could invest


more in giving academics and scientists the
resources to do their jobs. This is the next
step for the country to compete with Japan,
Korea and Malaysia.

Young Ambassadors
In the process of meeting some other
Vietnamese students including Lily a
Finance and Accounting undergrad from
Hanoi I am invited to the launch of a new
marketing film by Study Adelaide. This is
an organisation with remit to position the
city as a premier choice for students. Its a
competitive marketplace, and after canapes,
drinks and much hobnobbing, the film is
unveiled as a day in the life of a newly
arrived student. Its filled with life affirming
experiences and cultural exchanges where

The High Achiever

N GUYEN T RONG N GHIA


H OMETOWN : Dak Lak
A GE : 24
P H D IN : Electrical Engineering
F UTURE P LANS : To keep getting better at

what he does, keep experimenting and


keep travelling the world while he does it.

wordvietnam.com | December 2014 Word | 193

We have to live with the stereotype of the high performing Asian


student Its a good and a bad thing because it can mean that we dont
meet some people outside of our circle, some people who might judge us
but good because as Vietnamese it motivates us to work hard

beaches, wineries, sunshine and kangaroos


feature heavily. Lily is an ambassador for the
organization too, and counts amongst her
peers students from Brazil, Malaysia, India,
China and Canada.
I sit down to chat with her and her friends
Quinn, Brian, Wilson and Sanny. All of them
resemble the young, hip kids you can find
shopping on Le Loi or Nguyen Trai in Ho
Chi Minh City. The consensus is that they
like studying here, they like Australia and
they like the people.
Sanny recounts a story about the local
bus driver who stopped and got out of the
bus to assist a disabled person something
she says wouldn't happen at home, and

194 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

emblematic of the differences between her


still developing homeland and the first
world country she finds herself in now.
They are also aware its a quieter
place than where they have come from,
and possibly where they are going. I
like Adelaide, says Quinn, a second
year psychology student from Saigon.
Compared to Ho Chi Minh City its quiet
and organised, which is good for me because I dont like going out too much. I
prefer to go to peoples houses. There is a
large Vietnamese network available to them
here true Australia has 26,000 Vietnamese
students at last count but like Nghia they
dont want to be stuck in a bubble. Its

good to have Viet friends when you need


help, says Wilson, a future pharmaceutical
engineer. But I like to meet all the other
people as well, thats why I came here. I have
friends from Australia, Malaysia, England,
Poland and Spain. Not just Vietnamese.

On The Spot
No surprises on the one thing they agree on
missing as well, the food and possibly
the immediate sense of sharing what the
street life of Vietnam creates. In Danang,
where I am from, says Brian, a medicine
student on full scholarship, if you wanted
to do something you would just meet
outside, see whoever was there and go do it

The Students

Q UINN T RAN N GOC T HAO Q UYEN


H OMETOWN : Ho Chi Minh City
A GE : 20
C OURSE : Psychological Science
W HAT SHE MISSES MOST ABOUT
V IETNAM : Bun mam! I have not seen it
on the menu anywhere here!

W ILSON T U N HAT B UI
H OMETOWN : Phan Rang
A GE : 21
C OURSE : Pharmaceutical Engineering
F AVOURITE A USTRALIAN CELEBRITIES :
Hamish and Andy. Check em out!

L ILY T RANG N GUYEN


H OMETOWN : Ha Tinh
A GE : 21
C OURSE : Commerce Accounting and
WHAT

Corporate Finance

SHE MISSES MOST ABOUT

VIETNAM:

Drinking ca phe sua da every


morning!

Photo by Jon Aspin

straight away. Here its a bit more planned,


so you have to be more organised than at
home.
Its not just a string of social events for
these students though. They still feel the
pressure to perform their scholarships
depend on it. We have to live with the
stereotype of the high performing Asian
student, says Lily. Its a good and a bad
thing. Why? Because it can mean that
we dont meet some people outside of
our circle, some people who might judge
us but good because as Vietnamese it
motivates us to work hard. That is what
people expect of us, what our families want
and what our country expects as well.

So its not all barbecues on the beach


and fireworks in the harbour, but it does
seem that these students are mixing it
up and representing Vietnam well from
afar. I decide to leave the last word to our
two-time international student of the year
though, so I ask him to give some advice
to potential cohorts who might be reading
back home. Always have a goal, he
begins, then find out what you need to do
to achieve it. If you get stressed, dont let it
stop you. Never compare yourself to others,
just focus, and work as hard as you can to
[achieve] your dreams.
Well said Nghia, I think theres
something in that for all of us, mate.

S ANNY S A H OANG N GUYEN


H OMETOWN : Nghe An
A GE : 20
C OURSE : Bachelor of Commerce
F AVOURITE A USTRALIAN EXPRESSION :
No worries mate!

B RIAN N HAN N GUYEN


H OMETOWN : Danang
Age: 23

B EST

C OURSE : Medicine

THING ABOUT STUDYING OVERSEAS :

Meeting girls from all over the world


just kidding Mum!

The last call


As Swedish ambassador to Vietnam during the two countries 45-year
anniversary of diplomatic relations, Camilla Mellander looks on how
Sweden is leading by example. Photo by David Harris
I have been in Vietnam for
two-and-a-half years. Funny, it feels
as if I arrived a few months ago. I still
learn new things about Vietnam and
Vietnamese culture every day, and Im
very happy I have another one-and-ahalf years to go.

The Swedish embassy is


housed in the Swedish embassy

compound, in the middle of busy Kim


Ma Street. Most people know where this
is because the embassy has been there
since 1980 and the architecture is a bit
different and some people call it the
Swedish red-roofed compound. My
Swedish colleagues and I love living
there even if the buildings are a little bit
old. Its almost like a kibbutz. We work
and live together and have a lot of fun.

Sweden recognised Vietnams


sovereign status earlier than
other western nations because... Sweden has always been a

strong advocate for self-governance


and the rights for people and countries
to decide and create their own future.
Those are Swedish core values and
therefore the Swedish government
decided to recognise Vietnam in 1969.
This year we celebrate 45 years of
diplomatic relations and it has been
a really special year with more than 30
different events. In November more
than half of the embassy relocated to
Ho Chi Minh City for the exhibition,
Innovative Sweden, which ran for three
weeks at Hoa Sen University. Sweden is
a small country but always at the top of
the Global Innovation Indexes.

tor. There are more female CEOs in


Vietnam than in Sweden.

Swedish-Vietnamese trade
has grown to historic levels
because of the liberalisation

of the Vietnamese economy and


a growing market economy in
Vietnam. The new economic policies
have opened doors to the international markets and catapulted the
Vietnamese economy, which in turn
has made it attractive for trade and
investments. With the free trade
agreement between the EU and
Vietnam, hopefully to be concluded
next year, the volume will increase
even further.

Our interest in Vietnamese financial reform stems


from the fact that we see a lib-

eral market-oriented economy as the


most effective way to lift nations and
people out of poverty. It also brings
increased exchange economically
and culturally.

We see the next 10 years


of Swedish-Vietnamese partnership as focusing on
bringing Swedish knowhow
and technology to Vietnam. Vietnam is now a
middle-income country
and after being one of
the largest donors in
Vietnam for many
years we have now
changed our focus to
trade promotion.

As the longest-standing western diplomacy to Vietnam, we


lead by example, Id say. A deep

and trusting relationship that recognises


all that is uniting our countries and us,
that is built on mutual respect but at
the same time doesnt shy away from
the fact of our sometime differences
of opinion. Just like in any respectful
relationship.

During my tenure, Sweden has


emphasised the importance of an

innovative climate for Vietnam to be


able to climb up the ladder and sustain a
high level of economic growth. Sweden
is also a strong voice for democracy,
freedom and equality, and coming from
a country with a high level of gender
equality, Im happy to see that women
in Vietnam are making headway into
politics, academia and the business sec-

196 | Word December 2014 | wordvietnam.com

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