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WJ lamps & lighting

Interior bulbs
Bulb P/N
Description

Bulb

Qt
y

(Red text= custom


colors available)

Shape

Volt
s

Amp
s

Watts

T-3-1/4

14

0.19

2.66

T-3

13.5

0.52

7.02

Ashtray
Bulb # 161
1

Cargo area,
rear

P/N L0000161

Bulb # 212-2
1

P/N L0021202

Automatic system:

Climate
control

P/N 5013123AA
(graphics)
10
P/N 5013123AA

Automatic:
Bulbs soldered to
circuit board

P/N
5013124AA(knobs
)

6?
Manual system:

Manual:
PC74 Removable
PC74

PC74
L000PC74

Cluster
illumination

12
+
5

Courtesy
Front doors

PC74 (status &


warning)
L000PC74
103 (backlighting,
except
electroluminescent
)
L00PC121

192
2

Courtesy
Under dash

L0000192

T-3-1/4

13

0.33

4.29

T-5

13

0.69

8.97

T-3-1/4

13

0.33

4.29

T-3-1/4

14

0.27

3.78

906
2

L0000906

192
L0000192

Dome /
Reading /
EVIC
2

NOTE: The EVIC in


the overhead console
uses 4 bulbs for
backlighting the C/T,
Reset, Step and Menu
buttons. The OEM
part # is 04437661.
For more information
see "'EVIC" in
the bulb
removal section)

Glove box
194
1

L0000194

Passenger
assist handle

214-2
2-3

L0021402

T-3

13.5

0.52

7.02

Sunvisor
vanity
4

6501966

Interior aftermarket bulbs


Festoon dome 9-LED aftermarket bulbs, red example shown, are available for the
cargo area #212-2 and the assist handle #214-2 bulbs. Available colors are red,
blue, green and super white. The bulbs sell for $6.95 each and are available
from Superlumination.com
Wedge style 5-LED bulbs are available for the #194 glove compartment lamp.
Available colors are red, blue, green, amber and super white. Other styles of the
#194 bulb are also available. The bulbs sell for $6.95 each and are available
from Superlumination.com

Exterior bulbs
Description

Bulb

Qt
y

Bulb P/N

Shape

Volt
s

Amp
s

Watt
s

12.814

2.1

0.48

2.1

0.48

3157
Back-up

Brake / Tail

L0003157
2

(Note:
Replacement
socket is P/N
4676589)

S-8

3157

S-8

L0003157
(Note:
Replacement

12.814

socket is P/N
4676589)

Foglamp bulb

9055 / 9040 / 9145


2

L0009055 (99-02)
L0009040 (2003)
L0009145 (2004)

Rtangled

12.8

55w
40w
45w

Straigh
t base

12.8

55

Straigh
t base

12.8

65

T-3-1/4

14

.35

4.9

T-3-1/4

14

0.27

3.78

9006XS

Headlamp
Low beam

Standard
L0009006XS
2
Optional
Mopar Silverstar
P09006XSST

Headlamp
High beam

9005XS
2

L0009005XS

License plate
168
2

L0000168

194NA
(Laredo, models
with amber lower
lens)
L000194NA

Parking / Side
marker
4

194
(Limited/Overland
clear lower lens)
L000194

Stop lamp,
Center high

921
1

Turn signal
Front
4

0154883AA

3157NA
(Laredo, models
with amber lower
lens)
L0003157NA

T-5

12.8

1.4

17.92

S-8

12.814

2.1

0.48

S-8

12.814

2.1

0.48

T-3

12.8

.97

12.42

3157
(Limited/Overland
clear lower lens)
L0003157
3157

Turn signal
Rear

L0003157
2

(Note:
Replacement
socket is P/N
4676589)

Underhood
('99-'01 only)

561
1

L0000561

Exterior aftermarket bulbs


3157 Tail, Brake, Turn Signal &' Back-Up bulbs are also available in custom
colors and styles. Available colors are red, blue, amber and super white. The
LED versions shown sell for $16.95 each and are available
from Superlumination.com
#921 center stop lamp are also available in custom colors and styles. Available
colors are red, blue, green, amber and super white. The LED versions shown
sell for $6.99 each and are available from Superlumination.com
NOTE: Bulb part numbers shown in Blue are factory part numbers. Bulb part numbers
shown in RED text signify the availability of aftermarket replacement bulbs in custom colors.

Some may also be offered in "Long-life" versions, such as Sylvania's 3157NA-LL. Custom and
replacement bulbs are available from a variety of different online companies, several of which
are listed in the Links section below. More information can also be found in the Upgrading
section.
Important: Before replacing any automotive bulbs with types or styles other than what the
manufacturer has specified or recommended, be sure to check local and Federal laws
governing vehicle lighting. An excellent reference web site for this information can be found
here: Motor Vehicle Lighting Standards.

Lighting & bulb links


AutoBarn.com (PIAA lamps, fog kits and many other automotive accessories)
AutoSeattle.com (PIAA lamps, fog kits and many other automotive accessories)
Auto Lamps-Online.com
Bright Headlights-HID.com (Street legal HID headlights and Euro systems)
BuyTruckStuff.com (Headlights, LED lights, Xenon bulbs and more)
Cool Lights.com (Euro Taillights, Clear Taillights, Headlights, H.I.D. Systems,
Sealed Beam Conversions and more)

Don's bulbs.com (Great source for bulb identification and specifications)


Light lens.com (Colored bulbs and other lighting accessories)
Phillips' Lighting Enthusiasts Forum
Street glow.com (Specializing in neon)
Superlumination.com (Specializing in LED bulbs)
SUV Lights.com
Topbulb.com (Very wide selection of stock replacement bulbs)

XenonMods.com (Jeep lighting specialists. Xenon and plasma headlights, Jeep


decals and more)

Xtreme White.com (Bulbs, lighting systems, accessory bulbs, HID kits)

his page last updated: June 3, 2015

WJ lamps & lighting


Part 2: Bulb removal

Interior bulb removal

Ashtray (# 161) / Lower center bezel


The center bezel assembly is held in place by strong snap clips near each corner which can
be gently pried out with a hard plastic putty knife. Once loose the assembly will slide
straight out. The ash tray light socket is attached to the top of the tray with a spring clip
which is unhooked by squeezing and tilting it out at the base.

Cargo area (# 214-2)


Using a very small flat blade screwdriver, pry the lens away from the corners as shown in
the left photo. When replacing the lens cover, align the push-button switch tab into its slot
first and then snap into place the two lock clips.

If you need to remove the cargo lamp housing, remove the liftgate upper trim piece to gain
access to the lamp housing. The trim piece is held in place with four spring clips. Pull down
to release the clips, and then pull straight back to disengage from the headliner. The lamp
housing is attached with two spring clips.

Climate control, Automatic (P/N 5013123AA graphics, P/N 5013124AA


knobs)
Eight climate control lamps are soldered onto the internal circuit board of the Automatic
Zone Control assembly. These are unlikely to burn out for many years, but some owners
have wanted to color the bulbs. To remove the AZC unit, the radio bezel and the lower
bezel assembly must be removed. Both bezels are pried out using a flat hard plastic blade
tool (see ashtray lamp section above). The AZC unit is held in place by 4 Phillips screws.
After removing the screws slide the unit out and unplug the two wiring harnesses in the
rear. To open the unit, remove the two smaller knobs in front by pulling them straight out.
Then remove the 4 rear screws with a Torx T-20 screwdriver to separate the front plate.
Note: The AZC controllers for model years 2003-04 were reprogrammed. The factory
suggests that these not be installed in 1999-2002 vehicles. Also, the AZC controllers can
not be installed into models with manual controls.

Cluster illumination (#103 Jeep P/N L00PC121 for backlighting and # PC74,
Jeep P/N L000PC74 for warning/status lights)
The gauge cluster is surprisingly easy to removed. First, remove the cluster bezel trim piece
that is above the steering wheel. It is held in place by 4 spring clips, one at each corner, and
pulls straight out. On the left side, you can reach your thumb behind the bezel rubber at the
tilt wheel lever cut-out and pull forward. 2003-2004 models do not have the rubber piece

but you can still reach behind the bezel in the same although there is less room for your
fingers. If so equipped, you'll need to unhook the power pedal harness on the back of the
switch.
Next, remove the 4 phillips screws on the cluster assembly, two along the top and two on
the bottom. At the two upper screw holes there are tabs that must be slightly pried down to
release the cluster, which you can then pull outward and away. There is plenty of slack
allowed to conveniently unhook the single 9-wire/12-slot harness.
Note: The amount of replaceable bulbs and their locations may vary somewhat by year,
model and options. Typically, there are five #103 bulbs used for backlighting the cluster
(except lectroluminescent clusters) and anywhere from 12-20 PC74's used for the different
status and warning lights. To remove the sockets, twist one-quarter turn. The bulbs can then
be wiggled out from the sockets.
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with the premium instrument cluster, the cluster
circuitry provides an alternating current to supply power to the electroluminescent
illumination lamp through a pigtail wire and connector that is accessible at the back of the
cluster housing. Use proper precautions when handling this unit during diagnosis or service
to avoid electrical shock and possible personal injury.

Cluster layout and descriptions, example shown is from 2002.

Courtesy light, front doors (# 192)


Note: Lens cover = p/n 56005077 (left) and p/n 56005076 (right)

The lens cover can be pryed off from the front with a small flat-blade screwdriver.
However, at least for model years 2002-2003, the bulbs are part of the socket and must be

removed from the back, inside the door panel. The door courtesy lights were eliminated
starting with the 2004 model year.
Removing the bulb is actually quite easy to do without having to remove the entire panel.
1. Remove one screw, the phillips screw located inside the door pull.
2. With a flat blade tool (like a hard plastic putty knife), pry the lower outside edge of the
door panel up enough to unfasten the side trim clips, and perhaps one more in the bottom
area.
3. Reach inside the door panel edge and remove the bulb/socket from the back of the
housing (turn socket 1/4 turn counter-clockwise).
Note: When pushing the side of the door panel back on make sure the clips are aligned with
their holes.

Courtesy, under dash (# 906)


The bulbs for the two under dash courtesy lights can be changed by simply prying off the
white dome covers which are held in place with plastic tabs. Both sockets can be accessed
without removing any trim pieces or other parts.

Dome / Reading (# 192)


Two dome / reading lights are located in the overhead console. To remove the console,

remove the single phillips screw located near the windshield side. The screw should be
removed with a non-magnetic screwdriver as to avoid interference with the compass. The
console is also held in place by two spring clips. Grab the console from the sides, wedging
your fingers underneath it, and carefully and firmly pull it straight down.

EVIC module front view

EVIC module rear view

EVIC module circuit board

EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) (Mopar # 04437661)


Four bulbs are used for backlighting the C/T, Reset, Step, and Menu buttons on the EVIC.
The four bulbs can be seen along the top of the circuit board, shown in the photo above
right. To access the bulbs, the overhead console must first be removed (see directions above
under "Dome / Reading"). Remove the four phillips screws that attach the EVIC module to
the overhead console housing (shown in center photo above). The EVIC module can be
opened by prying the tabs on the side. The circuit board will then lift right out and the bulbs
can be replaced.

Glove box (# 194)


1. Empty contents of glove box.
2. Loosen or remove bezel trim piece - The bulb socket can be accessed by removing just
two of the three bezel cover screws, which will allow the top right of the bezel piece to be
pulled out far enough to pull the socket through. However, to make things a little easier it is
not too difficult to remove all three screws and the trim bezel entirely. It is held in place by

two strong spring clips. Grasp the bezel at the bottom, around the back edge, and firmly
pull or jerk it forward and away.
3. Roll the glovebox down. This is done by reaching in to the top inside of the glove box
with both hands, in front of the sharp plastic guide pins, and with your middle fingers
pushing each rubber stopper up and out of the way to let the pins pass by and the glovebox
drop down. Note: Some models may feature a pneumatic glove box damper on the right
side of the glove box. The arm of the damper must be lifted upwards to remove it from its
keyed slot.
3. The socket is held in place with two plastic retaining tabs, one at the top and one at the
bottom of the switch. It's a tight fit to get your finger over the top clip to try and release it,
but that is not really necessary, the socket can be removed by just depressing the bottom
tab. To do this, use your right hand middle finger to press up on the bottom of the lower
retaining tab, while at the same time reaching in and under the socket with your left
forefinger and thumb to wiggle and push the socket forward. This will release the socket
from the bottom at an angle, enough so that you can now grab it from the front lip cover
while still pushing it from the back to wiggle it free from its mounting hole.

Pull handles (# 214-2)


Using a very small flat blade screwdriver, pry the lens away from the housing on the left
side as shown in the photo. When replacing the lens cover, align the push-button switch tab
on the right side into its slot first, and then snap the two lock clips on the left side into
place.

Sunvisor vanity (# 6501966)


The lens for the vanity lights can be pried off with a small flat screwdriver, starting in
either of the top corners. There are two "fuse" style bulbs in each housing. The bulbs are
available from your Jeep dealer.

Exterior bulb removal

Front: Headlamps, Parking, Side marker, Turn signal (5 bulbs)


Open the hood, and using a 7mm socket remove the long headlamp jackscrew, located as
shown in the photo above, 2nd from left. Grasp the headlight assembly on the upper
inboard and lower outboard corners and wiggle and pull very firmly outward to disengage
the 3 ball stud alignment posts from their sockets (be cautious of the sharp edges of the
grille and fender areas surrounding the headlamp). The location of the 3 mounting sockets
and ball studs is shown in the photos below.
Note: Use caution when removing and handling the headlamp assembly. The headlamp
beam adjustment shaft on the rear center of the housing is very brittle and can easily be
broken.
Tip: Apply a small amount of grease to the 3 alignment posts when reinstalling the
headlamp housing, this will make it easier to remove in the future.

Headlamp mounting area and rear of housing, showing ball stud fasteners.

Front: Foglamp (1999-2003) (# 9055)

Front and back of foglamp housing, rear view showing fascia mounting
The foglamp bulbs can be accessed and removed from underneath the bumper without
tools, although it is a tight fit. Turn the lamp socket 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove
from the rear of the housing. Note that the screw in the front of the foglamps is for
alignment only and does not remove the outer lens. The fog lamp housing is attached to
the fascia with two nuts which can be removed with a 10mm socket.
Fog lamps can be added to most Laredo model WJ's that came from the factory without
them. Mopar kits are available that include two fog lights, wiring harness, and steering
column switch. Click Here for part numbers and other information on these kits.

Front: Foglamp (2004) (# 9145)


The foglamps were changed to a round style for the 2004 model year.

Rear: Brake, Back-up, Tail, Turn signal (3 bulbs, all # 3157)


To access the rear bulbs, open the liftgate and remove the two phillips head screws from
the side of the housing as shown in the center photo above. Slowly and firmly rotate the
assembly away from the vehicle until it disengages from the ball pin socket that secures it
in back.
Each of the three light sockets, all containing the same exact bulb type, can be removed by
turning them counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.
(Note: Replacement sockets are available separately, Jeep P/N 4676589)

Taillight harness connector

To remove the taillight harness, slide the red lock tab up and pull connector off.

Rear: high mount stop light (# 921)


The lens housing for the high mount stop light is attached with two T-20 torx head screws.
Turn the lamp socket 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to access and remove the bulb.

Rear: License plate light (# 168)


To replace the single bulb, remove the small Phillips head screw on the left side of the
lens. Pivot the left side of the assembly from the rear cargo door about half an inch or an
inch, taking care not to damage the attached wires. Grasp the soft rubber subassembly to
which the wires are attached, and twist 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Pull the subassembly
from the housing. Pull the old bulb straight out from the holder, dance a little dance, and
insert the new bulb into the bulb holder. Assembly and installation is the reverse of
disassembly and removal.

Underhood (# 561)
The plastic lens cover of the hood lamp can be easily snapped off using a tiny flat
screwdriver. It is held in place with plastic clips in each corner.
This extremely handy feature was eliminated starting with the 2002 model year. The bright
light was conveniently mounted over the dipsticks, lighting the entire engine area. It works
with a gravity-type switch that turns the light on and off when the hood is opened and
closed.
2002-2004 owners can easily install the original factory hood lamp. The screw hole and
mounting tab are still present, hidden under the hood insulation cover. A rectangular piece
needs to be cut out where the mounting holes are. Wiring must be run as well. A fused hot
lead can be run directly to the battery or under-hood fuse box, or fed across the hood
(under the insulation) and through the firewall to the inside dash. The ground wire can be
run almost anywhere.
It's probably possible to tie into the interior light system for the benefit of having the

automatic 8-minute battery protection off timer, I have not been able to confirm yet how
this can be done, as that would be ideal. Otherwise, a manual on-off switch can easily be
added during times when you don't want the light to stay on, as when leaving the hood
open for extended periods.
The lamp-end electrical connector plug is not available separately, so one must either
purchase the harness or devise a way to connect the wiring to the 2 lamp socket pins.
Wires can be soldered directly on, or attached to the correct size push-on connector ends.
Another alternative (better but more expensive) is to purchase the factory wiring harness.
This will allow a direct connection at the lamp end, but it must still be manually attached
to the battery or + connection and ground as vehicles produced without the hood lamp do
not have a factory wired receptacle available for the harness.

Part name: "Lamp" (with


housing, bulb & lens)

Part number:
56021441

List price:
$26.85

Part name: "Lens"

Part number:
4897446AA

List price: $
5.75

Part name: "Harness"

Part number:
56042574AC

List price:
$30.95

Part name: "Screw" (tapping, .


25-14x.625)

Part number: N/A

(Prices listed are for reference purposes only and may vary by dealer. Prices are current as of March 2013).