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Camera AF Microadjustment - for free

69

Checking for front / back focus and fine-tuning camera autofocus.

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Page contents
Moire fringe method
Test pattern download
Canon's suggested method
Alt. Liveview method
Measurement hardware

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Newer DSLRs have the facility to individually tune the AF settings for different lenses via a custom
setting (the micro adjust function).
It's really easy
You don't need special tools or measuring equipment (it's free)
There is no chance of damaging anything (you can reset it)
The AF fine-tune adjustment for auto focus functionality is available in many newer cameras that have a
'liveview' capability.
Later in 2015 I'm getting Canon's new 5Ds. This article was originally written when looking at AFMA on my then new 1Ds mk3.
With the new camera, I'll be revisiting many technical areas of my photography, and this is one of them. The stuff here still works
just fine!

Canon PRO-2000

This article contains several different (free) methods for AF adjustment

Laowa 12/2.8 lens

Note... You can use the Moire fringe technique to check any (digital) camera AF system for back or front focus.

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Cameras with micro-adjustment (or AF fine tuning) currently include:

Canon 1D X, 1DIII, 1DIV, 1DsMkIII, 5DII, 5D3, 50D, 7D, Nikon D3, D3x, D4, D300, D700, D800 Sony A900, Pentax K20
(note that the EOS 60D does not include this feature) The EOS 1D X / 5D3 now allows separate AF Microadjustment for
both the wide angle and the telephoto settings of a zoom lens.
Sometimes, different lenses might consistently not focus perfectly (front or back focus). This can now be adjusted for
individual lenses. Some cameras even allow for multiple copies of the same lens to be individually adjusted.
We've got a downloadable lens calibration chart to make this process easier. The lens calibration target is easy to set up
and use with an LCD monitor.
If you're looking for specific hardware to help with the process, we have a review of the SpyderLensCal

AF Microadjustment - back/front focus

It's important to realise that any system of parts with individual tolerances can exhibit significant variance if the assorted
'errors' all stack up in one direction (they can just cancel out too). This is a key element of engineering design for
manufacturing.
Whilst expensive lenses and an expensive camera should 'just work' there may be room for improvement.
Note - I'm using the 1Ds3 as an example here - this procedure works with any camera that has some way of fine tuning
the AF performance, and a 'live view' mode.

Previously you could get Canon to calibrate your lenses and bodies for you,
but this entailed sending the camera off for the work.
The 1D Mark 3 and 1Ds Mark 3 both allow customisation of the AF settings, although you should note that if you try a
whole lot of lenses and they all require a considerable adjustment, then it may be that your camera body needs fixing.
The adjustment is in the Custom functions menus (C.Fn III-7 AF Microadjustment).
A setting of 0 will clear all AF adjustment information, 1 will enable the global adjustment, while 2 will set individual
lenses.
If all lenses front or back focus a little then you can apply a global adjustment.

How to check focus accuracy

Canon have a 1D /1Ds3 'Optimising Camera settings' document [PDF] (German translation [PDF]) available which has
some useful background info on many of the adjustments and settings you can make to these two cameras.
I was sent details of an excellent post on OPF by Bart van der Wolf, covering his use of a fine graphics design on an LCD
screen.

I've -part- of the autofocus test image I've been using at the right.
The large image plays tricks with your
visual system, so be wary of this if you
have any difficulties caused by repetitive
patterns.
Download (zip file) a 1000x1000
pixels square version.
It will expand into a 1000x1000 GIF file
Please don't link to this file - the
filename will change ;-)

AF Microadjustment procedures
The principle is that you display the square GIF image (at 100% full size)
and focus on the computer screen, using liveview (zoomed if need be) and
maximise the appearance of Moire interference patterns. Do not make the
image 'fit' your computer screen, it needs to be unscaled.
You will need to have the camera mounted on a tripod and directly facing the
computer screen. Take some care to get the screen square on and lined up
with the camera.
If you want to be really accurate with lining things up, put a small mirror up, flat against your screen (or target). When the
camera is proerly square on to the screen, then the reflection of your lens will be visible right in the middle of your
viewfinder.

The interference patterns come about from the interaction between the image pixels on your screen and the pixels of
your sensor. They may not look exactly the same as in the examples below, but you should notice a distinct peak in the
amount of detail visible - that is the focus point.
Note - this won't work with a print of the image! You need a screen view

You then switch off liveview and part press the shutter button to activate AF.
Look carefully at the lens distance indicator as you do this ... if the lens and camera combination is spot on, then there
will will be no movement of the lens focusing ring and the image will not change.
I tried this firstly with my 24-70, set at 70mm (Canon suggest setting zooms at their longest setting)
... no movement of the lens ring at all. The lens is spot on. Reactivating liveview showed the patterns I'd seen after
manually focusing. There could be a slight difference since the interference technique is very sensitive. If you are not
sure, then try the test again with an adjustment of + or - 1. you should see a difference.
Next I moved the camera closer to the screen, making sure it was properly 'square on' to the centre of the pattern. I
fitted my EF14mm 2.8L II lens

Note - Camera-to-subject distance should ideally be no less than 50 times the focal length of the lens. For
a 50mm lens, that would be at least 2.5 meters (25m for a 500mm)
It's difficult to show graphics
here, but the first image
gives an idea of the rear
display when manually
focused with liveview, while
the second shows the view
after getting the camera to
autofocus (where an
adjustment is needed).
I've exaggerated the
difference slightly for showing
here.
It's actually only a few
centimetres difference in
focal distance, but the
interference effect allows you
to get critically sharp focus.
I noticed some patterns in a
quick check with a CRT (if this works fine - please let me know?), but I'd prefer a LCD (a laptop is useful for testing longer
lenses). My 23" Apple Cinema display shows patterns much better with my Canon 1Ds3 than my 15" MacBook Pro with
its higher resolution (pixels per inch) screen.
If you are having difficulty with longer lenses, I'm told that a laptop outside at night works quite well.

The exact pattern you see when sharply focused, depends on your LCD screen and its pixels, since it's the interference
between the screen version of the image (and its individual pixels) and the pixels of your sensor that result in the
aliasing. It was different with each lens and at different distances.
The effect should be very obvious to see - you are looking for a peak in the pattern's visibility, not any particular amount
of pattern.
After a quick test, the following settings were altered
EF14mm 2.8L II - a setting of +8 (backward)
EF15mm 2.8 (fisheye) - no correction required
EF16-35 2.8L @35mm - a setting of +5 (backward)
EF24-70 2.8L @70mm - no correction required
EF70-200 2.8L @200mm - no correction required
It's worth testing your lenses in different conditions and trying a few 'real world' photos as well. I'd not even noticed the

error on the 14mm and a few quick test shots at f/2.8 show a just perceptible increase in sharpness.
I repeated each measurement several times just to be sure it was real
and not a 'glitch' in the AF.
If you find yourself wishing there was a finer gradation of adjustment
than offered, I'd seriously suggest ending the process and going out to
take some photos :-)

Alternative AF setting technique using the Moire

technique
An alternative way of testing is to always start with your lens set at
infinity.
You line up the target and activate AF.
Then turn off AF and activate liveview.
You should see some form of Moire pattern.

Important reminder
Do remember that all AF systems have a
degree of tolerance in them, so don't get
carried away spending hours chasing
'perfect' focusing. You are adjusting a
camera, not building a space telescope!
AF microadjustment is not the 'cheap fix'
for improving their photography that
some would like to think. As a working
professional photographer, I did it once
when writing this page, once when testing
the SpyderLensCal and once when I got
a replacement for my old 24-70 (-2 adj.
required)

Turn the focus ring to a slightly closer distance - does this initially
make the pattern more obvious?
If so then you have an element of backfocusing.
If it makes the pattern less obvious then you have front focusing (if any movement of the focus ring makes
things worse, then smile to yourself, since the AF for that lens is already spot on :-)
Adjust the AF setting to compensate (positive numbers on my 1Ds3 for back focus). Repeat the process until any
movement of the focus ring lessens the visibility of the Moire.
The amount of movement required may be very small with some lenses
I've seen it suggested that by starting at infinity and letting the AF work at the start, you are getting more consistent
results.
Some people have contacted me after finding that they couldn't get the moire method to work with their screen. It seems
that very high resolution LCD screens present the image a bit too small. A target based approach might be of help if you're
having problems - take shots at +20,1,0,-10,-20 and just look at them, see the SpyderLensCal review for a more general
discussion - not just based on that device (a sheet of graph paper can work, with care).

AF check on cameras without liveview/AF adjustment

If you want to try this with a camera without liveview then just shoot a picture of the screen using AF and then two
more with the focus ring manually moved +/- 5cm. Hopefully the AF version should show some fringing not visible in
the other two shots.
If all your lenses show a slight shift then it -might- be worth getting your camera serviced?

Some Examples showing what you might see

Here are two examples taken with the 1Ds Mk3 and 16-35 2.8L (mk1) @f/2.8 and 35mm
The first picture shows correct AF

Note that these two images are intended to give an idea of the effect you are looking for, not the
testing methodology (you can use the LCD screen and Liveview)

One additional feature of this method is that if you don't have the camera square to the screen (i.e. sensor parallel to
the screen), you will get noticeable asymmetry in the pattern. The screen above shows that the bottom left corner of
the screen is slightly closer (or further away) than the top right corner. This method is very sensitive in this respect
(much more so than you could get by simply looking at a shot for focus errors)
The second picture below, was manually set to front focus by at least 10cm. This is quite a bit, but I've done it to show
the effect you are looking for. I've also taken the photo from closer than you might use for a real test.

Both of these shots were shot tethered and the images you see above are screenshots of the 'Quick Preview' from EOS
utility.
I did this so that I could use an un-resampled image, since any resampling of the image can introduce new moire (these
effects are not easy to show here!).
Remember too, that both images show some asymmetry in the patterns which indicates that I've not got the camera
fully square on to the screen.
It can help if you use a monitor that has been calibrated to some extent. (We have quite a few articles all about aspects of
colour management on this site)
Uncalibrated monitors often have a colour temperature up towards 10000K, which is very blue
The nominal 'standard' monitor setting of 6500K is
much closer to daylight.
I did see it suggested that if you do a lot of work in
tungsten lighting, then setting your monitor colour
temperature to 5000K before doing the adjustments
might produce better results, particularly if using a
lens with noticeable chromatic aberration.
I've not tested this dependence on display colour,
so if anyone has the patience to do so, then please
do let me know what you find out?

It just works!
Thanks to all the people who've written in with
questions, and refinements to the technique. I'll be
sure to keep the page updated if any new techniques
or tips come in.
I've heard examples of people finding that their
'average' lens made into the 'sharp' category after
trying this ;-)

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Canon's suggested Micro Focus

Adjustment
This is Canon's suggested technique - I cover much more about using similar techniques in my review of the
SpyderLensCal device.
Mount the camera on a good tripod.
Set up a target for the camera to focus on. The reference target should have sufficient contrast for the AF system
to detect. It should be flat and parallel to the camera's focal plane, and centred.
Lighting should be bright / even.
Camera-to-subject distance should be no less than 50 times the focal length of the lens. For a 50mm lens, that
would be at least 2.5 meters.
Set the lens for AF and the camera for One-Shot AF, and manually select the centre focusing point.
Shoot at the maximum aperture of the lens via manual mode or aperture-priority. Adjust exposure level to get an
accurate exposure. Use low ISO setting.
If the lens has an image stabilizer, turn it off.
Use a remote switch or the camera's self-timer to fire the shutter. Use mirror lock up as well.
Take three sets of images at microadjustment settings of -5, 0 and +5, i.e, three consecutive images at -5, three
consecutive images at 0, and three consecutive images at +5.
Look at the images on your screen at 100% magnification.

Take additional sets of test images at different microadjustment settings if necessary until the sharpest image is
achieved.
Register the corresponding microadjustment settings in the camera.
Thorough, but slower... ;-)
AF Adjustment notes from Canon
For best results, manually set the focus on the lens to infinity for every exposure before allowing the camera
to autofocus the reference target.
Expect some minor variations in focusing accuracy within each set of three test images, even though they
were all taken at the same microadjustment setting. This is completely normal, and is due to the tolerances
of the camera's AF system.
Expect smaller microadjustment settings to have a greater effect with telephoto lenses, and vice versa for
wide-angle lenses.
If you are attempting to set microadjustments for a zoom lens, it is important to realize that the camera's
setting may only be accurate for the focal length setting you test. The instruction book suggests testing at
the longest focal length of the lens, but you may find it more efficient to choose the focal length you use
most often.

Alternative Canon Liveview based focusing method

This is from a suggestion on the Birdphotographers list by Arash Hazeghi
Make sure you have the latest version of the Canon EOS utility installed. You need to point the camera at a fine detail
target, ideally at least 50 times the focal length away
If you find that it is very difficult to achieve a precise sharp focus (particularly with slower lenses) you can lower the 50x
distance limit somewhat, however I'd personally not go much closer than 30x. You can see just how little change there is
during the focus stepping in my SpyderLensCal review.

Make sure that the camera is square on to the target, and that the target is sufficiently flat. Something like a bank note
usually has a lot of fine detail, if you don't have a convenient ISO chart available.
Connect the camera to your computer via the USB port, cancel any image download pop-up/application
1. Run the EOS utility.
2. Click on Camera setting/remote shooting icon.
3. Click on Remote Live View Shooting. This will open a new window with live sensor video feed.
4. Make sure that AF is in phase detect mode (quick mode AF). This uses the cameras main AF sensor.
5. Choose the centre AF point and make sure the white rectangle is centred on the AF point. The AF points
pattern will be different for different cameras.
6. Click on the magnifying icon for a full size view.
7. Click the AF ( ON ) button in the focus section of the controls. The camera will now autofocus on the
target.
8. Click on the 200% magnification checkbox. The view on the screen is now at 2:1 magnification. Note that
it is essential that your tripod is placed on a solid surface, since anyone walking round will easily produce
vibrations you can see.
9. Now click on the ( > ) or( < ) buttons to shift focus backwards or forwards one click at a time until image
appears at its sharpest on the screen. When doing this, notice the contrast at edges, you want them as
crisp as possible. Record how many clicks you have moved relative to the centre (note that the infinity
symbol indicates the 'far' direction)
10. Repeat this a few times until the results are consistent (remember that there is always some slight variation in
autofocus)
11. Each click on the ( > ) or ( < ) buttons corresponds to one unit in the AF micro adjust scale in the camera.
12. Disengage LV by clicking close in the Zoom View and Remote Live View Windows.
13. Go to microadjust (MA) menu option in your camera and set the amount of adjustment (for this lens) to
the exact value recorded, noting the back or front direction.
14. Go back to step 3 and perform AF again. If the image is already as sharp as possible when you click 200%
you have sucessfully set an adjustment value. If still not right then go through this procedure until you
can consistently get the sharpest image. You can shoot test images and transfer directly to your computer.
Some notes - I've not tried this particular method yet. If anyone finds it particularly useful, or has any suggestions to
make it better, then please do let me know?
If you've come directly to this method, do read some of the
caveats in the notes from Canon just above this section.

Still more...
Some more experimental techniques I've come across:
Liveview based with single AF step
Version of above with Nikon D800

So, how good is AF?

Possibly better than you'd thought, but for anyone really getting into checking the minutiae of AF performance, I'd
suggest reading this article.
In particular bear it in mind when you look at people's sample images. I've never been a 'detail' person, but I know
enough about measuring the performance of optical systems to always take peoples' reports of lens quality (without a
detailed description of their methodologies) with a pinch of salt ;-)
Of course, if you had a camera that incorporates both Phase Detect and Contrast Detect AF, then you could just point it
at a target and it would self calibrate the AF.

Physical Measurement devices

There are other approaches to the moire one above that I use.
However I'd suggest you try a 'free' technique first...
Datacolor produce device to make the process easier - we have
a full review of the SpyderLensCal.
The review also has a more general discussion about using
targets for focus adjustment.
Despite my initial distrust of such devices I can see situations
where the SpyderLensCal would be of use, particularly for longer
lenses outside.
Experiments
with this
device also
suggested
that there
was no real
justification
for
'precison'
versions
such as the
Lensalign
Pro. I'm
adjusting
lens
microfocus,
not setting
up a lab to
test mirrors
for space
telescopes...

More of
Keiths
articles
and
reviews

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