Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
PANTONE 285
KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Operation Manual
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE
LETTER E, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL
OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:
Blue
Neutral
Brown
Live
As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
N or coloured black or blue.
The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
L or coloured red or brown.
CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .................................................... 5
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6
Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7
Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................8
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8
4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................52
STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. 52
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 52
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................ 57
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 57
Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 57
TROUBLESHOOTING ....................................................................................................... 59
ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................ 62
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 62
INDEX ............................................................................................................................... 63
k Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
a Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle
threader) (page 17)
i Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
j Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
k Needle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front of the
sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and
specify how the stitch will be sewn.
a open it.
Note
Put the accessories in the bag, and then
store the bag inside the compartment. If the
accessories are not in a bag, they may fall
out, and be lost or damaged.
PANTONE 285
K
2000_01.fm Page 8 Tuesday, January 15, 2008 2:42 PM
ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you
be able to carry out most sewing tasks.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: CS-100, CS-6000, CS-6000i, CS-4000,
ES-2400, ES-2000, EX-660, CE-4000, BC-1000, HS-1000, XR-7700, CE-5000PRW, SM-6500PRW
The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
1.
9.
2.
3.
10.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
75/11 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
100/16 1 needle
No.
Part Name
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Buttonhole foot A
Overcasting foot G
Monogramming foot N
Zipper foot I
Zigzag foot J (on machine)
Blind stitch foot R
Button fitting foot M
Seam ripper
Part Code
No.
Part Name
U.S.A. / Canada Others
XC2691-031
9 Bobbin (4)
XC3098-031
10 Needle set
X53840-331
11 Twin needle
X59370-021
12 Cleaning brush
XC3021-031
13 Screwdriver
XC4051-031
14 Extra spool pin
X59375-121
15 Foot controller
X54243-001
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
XA5539-151
SA156
XC8834-021
131096-121
X59476-021
X55467-021
130920-021
XD0501-021 (EU area)
XC8816-021 (Other areas)
Optional accessories
1.
No.
2.
Part Name
Walking Foot
Quilting Foot
1/4-Inch Quilting
Foot
3.
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
F033N:
SA140
XC2214-002
F005N:
SA129
XC1948-002
F001N:
SA125
XC1944-002
4.
No.
Part Name
Quilting guide
Eyelet punch
5.
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
F016N:
SA132
XC2215-002
135793-001
WARNING
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in
fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
When you are away from the machine
After using the machine
When the power fails during use
When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
During electrical storms
CAUTION
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire
or electric shock may result.
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from
the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may
result.
c switch to {.
Power supply
a
Note
Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on
the rear side of the sewing machine.
CAUTION
When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machines speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine
will stop.
Slower
Faster
CAUTION
Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build
up on the foot controller. Doing so could
cause a fire or an electric shock.
(stitch selection
Note
When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing (only for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
Memo
Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered position.
10
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13.
a Pre-tension disk
b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin
CAUTION
Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing
machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the
machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the
same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other models
CAUTION
If the spool of thread is not in the right place,
the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
11
(start/
Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing (only for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
controller or press
(start/stop button) (for
models equipped with the start/stop button).
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
Memo
g
CAUTION
Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the thread
completely, and the bobbin is wound, when
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.
CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.
1
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
12
(start/
Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing (only for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
CAUTION
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is
wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built
into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
13
Memo
When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
a Cover
b Slide button
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.
CAUTION
Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.
CAUTION
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
2
Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other models
CAUTION
Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally
step on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press
(needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
14
1
a Tension-adjusting spring
1
Replace the cover so that the end of the
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
press
(needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
b
1
a Tension-adjusting spring
Memo
The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure
to thread the machine as indicated.
a Cover
b Slide button
c through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.
CAUTION
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
Memo
You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want
to draw up the bobbin thread before you
start to sew, follow to the procedure in
Drawing up the lower thread (page 19).
1
a Cutter
15
Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
For details on the needle threader, see page 17.
a Spool pin
b Thread guide
c Mark on the handwheel
CAUTION
Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
a lever.
or
a Mark
16
Note
If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise
the presser foot lever and the thread take-up
lever before you feed the upper thread.
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
CAUTION
If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or
is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on
the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure
CAUTION
a 5 cm (2 inch)
a Needle holder
b Needle threader lever
c Guide
17
machine.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
a Hook
b Thread
f needle threader lever. The hook will pull the
18
a Upper thread
b raise the needle either by turning the
or
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
cutting it.
a Mark
c thread.
b steps 1 to 4.
c
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
19
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.
Fabric Type/Application
Medium
weight
fabrics
Thin
fabrics
Thick
fabrics
Stretch
fabrics
Thread
Type
Broadcloth
Cotton thread
Taffeta
Synthetic thread
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread
Size
6080
75/1190/14
5080
Lawn
Cotton thread
Georgette
Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin
Silk thread
5080
3050
Denim
Cotton thread
Corduroy
Synthetic thread
Tweed
Silk thread
Jersey
Tricot
Size of Needle
6080
50
65/975/11
90/14100/16
5060
5080
65/990/14
30
90/14100/16
Cotton thread
Easily frayed fabrics
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Memo
The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.
20
CAUTION
or
a Mark
1
2
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
Correct needle
CAUTION
Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn
off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the foot controller or the start/
stop button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
c
a Flat surface
Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
a Flat surface
21
Note
The needle can be removed by simply
loosening the needle clamp screw about
one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is
loosened too much, the needle clamp
(which holds the needle) may fall off.
Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp
screw too much.)
CAUTION
a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
a
b
c
d
22
Needle bar
Needle holder
Needle clamp screw
Align
CAUTION
Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles
could break, and damage the machine.
Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.
You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,
from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or
the machine may be damaged.
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot J, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is
turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.
Note
a First spool
b Second spool
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach
zigzag foot J, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
23
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
or
a Mark
b turn it off.
CAUTION
Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the foot controller or the
start/stop button is accidentally pressed and
the machine starts sewing.
c
24
Note
The presser foot to be used with each stitch
appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer
to Selecting stitching (page 27).
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
Note
If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
b holder screw.
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
25
SEWING BASICS
2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your
hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may
break.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
Turn on the
machine.
26
Start sewing.
Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
threads.
For details on starting to sew, refer to Starting to sew (page 28).
Selecting stitching
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
a
2
Press the + or side of
(stitch
b length adjustment key) to increase or reduce
the stitch length.
b
Press
to increase or
on the
(stitch width
stitch width.
Note
The presser foot to be used is indicated by
the letter (G, A, J, N, or R) below
to
the right of the stitch number.
Note
When the stitch length or stitch width is
changed from the standard setting,
around
or
disappears from the LCD.
When the stitch length or stitch width is
reset back to the standard setting,
reappears around
or
in the LCD.
If the stitch width of the selected stitch
cannot be adjusted, -- appears to the right
of
in the LCD.
d width.
CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot,
the needle may bend or break.
If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may result in the
needle bending or breaking.
27
SEWING BASICS
e
Starting to sew
or
or
a Start/stop button
28
Thread tension
The thread tension will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
Memo
We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.
a Thread cutter
Memo
When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.
When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needles stay up when
sewing is stopped, refer to Changing the
needle stop position (page 10).
a
b
c
d
2
3
1
a
b
c
d
e
2
3
Memo
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
Wrong side
Surface
Upper thread
Lower thread
Loops appear on
surface of fabric
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number.
Wrong side
Surface
Upper thread
Lower thread
a
b
c
d
e
2
3
Wrong side
Surface
Upper thread
Lower thread
Loops appear on
wrong side of
fabric
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a higher number.
29
SEWING BASICS
Trial sewing
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is
selected.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
c sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve.
a sewing machine.
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to raise
the needle before changing the sewing
direction. If the fabric is turned while the
needle is lowered, the needle may bend or
break.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
b fabric.
30
a Sewing direction
a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
presser foot.
a Black button
feed.
a Basting
a release it.
CAUTION
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
force, the needle may bend or break.
31
UTILITY STITCHES
3 UTILITY STITCHES
OVERCASTING STITCHES
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
04
04
04
3.5
(1/8)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.04.0
(03/16)
Yes
(J)
***
Yes
Rev.*
05
05
05
Overcasting on medium
05 weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic, darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.57.0
(1/161/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc. **
06
06
06
on thin or
06 Overcasting
medium weight fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.55.0
(3/323/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.
07
07
07
5.0
(3/16)
2.55.0
(3/323/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.
08
08
08
on stretch
08 Overcasting
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.54.0
(1/323/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.
Overcasting
stitch
*Rev.: Reverse
Presser Foot
J
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Zigzag stitch
Stitch Name
Pattern
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also
useful for sewing stretch materials.
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Select a stitch.
CAUTION
a Guide
32
**
**
**
BASIC STITCHING
Manual
Auto
Manual
0.0
(0)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
No
***
Yes
Rev.*
Application
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
00
00
00
00
Center
01
01
01
2.5
(3/32)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
***
Yes
Rev.*
Triple
stretch stitch
02
02
02
0.0
(0)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.54.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.**
Straight
Left
*Rev.: Reverse
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
Basic stitching
a
Select a stitch.
For details, refer to Selecting stitching
(page 27).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
Start sewing.
33
UTILITY STITCHES
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
09
09
09
09
0
(0)
3 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.03.5
(1/161/8)
No
No
Rfc. *
10
10
10
10
0
(0)
3 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.03.5
(1/161/8)
No
No
Rfc.
Presser Foot
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem
stitch
*
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
Select a stitch.
a Needle
b Needle drop point
c Fold of hem
34
BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
29
29
29
Horizontal buttonholes
25 on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
30
30
30
5.0
(3/16)
3.05.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.21.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
31
31
31
1.0
(1/16)
0.52.0
(1/32-1/16)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
32
32
32
1.5
(1/16)
1.03.0
(1/16-1/8)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
33
33
33
34
34
35
35
40
40
Presser Foot
Walking Foot
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Buttonhole
stitch
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Application
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
6.0
3.06.0
(15/64) (1/8-15/64)
7.0
(1/4)
3.07.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
7.0
(1/4)
3.07.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
7.0
(1/4)
3.07.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto*
Rfc.
3.5
(1/8)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0-4.0
(0-3/16)
No
Yes
Rfc.**
a Reinforcement stitching
35
UTILITY STITCHES
2
1
5
3
2
4
A
a
b
c
d
e
1
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
a Marks on fabric
Select a stitch.
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
36
i position.
1
a Seam ripper
b Pin
a Eyelet punch
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
g your left hand, and then start sewing.
CAUTION
When opening the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
direction, otherwise injuries may result if the
seam ripper slips.
Memo
Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
37
UTILITY STITCHES
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a button to be attached.
Select a stitch
or
d gimp thread.
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
38
1
a Button fitting foot M
d the fabric.
3
e
Select a stitch
with stitch
.)
CAUTION
Start sewing.
After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
39
UTILITY STITCHES
ZIPPER INSERTION
01
*Rev.: Reverse
01
01
Manual
Auto
Manual
2.5
(3/32)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
Yes**
Application
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto
Walking Foot
Presser Foot
I
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Straight
stitch
(center)
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of
the needle.
When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left
side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.
Rev. *
3
a Zipper foot
b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper
c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper
a
Select stitch
CAUTION
CAUTION
Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the
needle does not hit the presser foot before
you start sewing. If you choose a different
stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and
break the needle. You may also be injured.
40
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
03
03
03
03
1.0
(1/16)
1.03.0
(1/161/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.
3-point
zigzag stitch
05
05
05
05
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic, darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.57.0
(1/161/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.
Application
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Presser Foot
Stretch stitch
Stitch Name
Pattern
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Select stitch
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest
the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a fabric.
2
a Elastic tape
b Pin
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
41
UTILITY STITCHES
04
04
04
04
3.5
(1/8)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.04.0
(03/16)
Yes
(J)
**
Yes
Rfc.*
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
40
40
3.5
(1/8)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.04.0
(03/16)
No
Yes
Rfc.*
Appliqu
stitch
11
11
11
3.5
(1/8)
2.55.0
(3/323/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.64.0
(1/163/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
41
41
1.5
(1/16)
0.55.0
(1/323/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
42
42
1.5
(1/16)
0.55.0
(1/323/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
37
37
5.5
(7/32)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
No
Yes
Rfc.*
38
38
1.5
(1/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
No
Yes
Rfc.*
14
14
14
4.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
15
15
15
5.0
(3/16)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
16
16
16
stitching and
16 Patchwork
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
Hand-look
quilting
39
39
35
stitch quilting
31 Straight
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
Quilting
stippling
43
43
7.0
(1/4)
1.07.0
(1/161/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
11 Appliqu stitching
Appliqu
stitch
(for quilting)
Piecing
straight
stitch
Joining stitch
Application
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Presser Foot
Zigzag stitch
Stitch Name
Pattern
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqus, patchwork and quilts are described below.
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
42
Manual
Auto
Manual
Appliqus
Auto
Select stitch
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
piecing. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
a fabric that you wish to piece together.
Select stitch
or
Memo
Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of stitching.
CAUTION
Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin
during sewing, as the needle can break. You
may also be injured.
Memo
To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
For details, refer to Changing the needle
position (page 33).
43
UTILITY STITCHES
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called quilting. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
sewing.
Note
Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the
walking foot.
a
b holder.
Note
When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
holder.
Walking foot
CAUTION
Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw
securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may
strike the presser foot and cause injury.
Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
d
44
Select stitch
or
been sewn.
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
a holder.
3
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
e stitch.
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
a Pattern
a Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
Be sure to securely tighten the screws with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or
break.
g position lever to
45
UTILITY STITCHES
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Walking Foot
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
0.0
(0)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
2.0
(1/16)
1.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
Application
Triple
stretch stitch
02
02
02
02
Bar tack
stitch
36
36
34
Reinforcing openings
30 and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Select stitch
Start sewing.
46
Select stitch
e possible.
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
h position.
Memo
If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to Selecting
stitching (page 27).
47
UTILITY STITCHES
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
17
17
17
5.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
18
18
18
5.0
(3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
14
14
14
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
15
15
15
5.0
(3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
16
16
16
stitching and
16 Patchwork
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
Shell tuck
stitch
12
12
12
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
Satin scallop
stitch
13
13
13
13 Scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
19
19
19
19 Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
20
20
20
20 Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
21
21
21
Decorative stitching
5.5
(7/32)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
22
22
22
stitching and
21 Decorative
elastic-attaching
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/64-1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
23
23
23
3.5
(1/8)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4
2.5
(3/32)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
24
24
24
hemming,
23 Decorative
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
25
25
25
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc.*
26
26
26
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
27
27
27
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
28
28
28
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
(J)
No
Rfc.*
Presser Foot
17
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Fagoting
stitch
Joining stitch
Decorative
stitch
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
48
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
24 plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
medium weight and
thin,
plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Fagoting
Scallop stitching
3
1
Select stitch
fabric.
2
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
c
Select stitch
or
fabric.
49
UTILITY STITCHES
g
Smocking
c (3/8 inch).
Select stitch
tension.
a 1 cm (3/8 inch)
1
e
Select stitch
or
50
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
CAUTION
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
a
allowances.
2
1
1
Select stitch
or
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch
c
Select stitch
or
d faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
CAUTION
Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
d
Start sewing.
51
APPENDIX
4 APPENDIX
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.
CAUTION
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot J, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
00
00
00
0.0
(0)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
No
***
Yes
Rev. *
Center
01
01
01
2.5
(3/32)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
Yes
(J)
***
Yes
Rev. *
Triple
stretch stitch
02
02
02
0.0
(0)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.54.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. **
Stretch stitch
03
03
03
stretch fabrics
03 Sewing
and decorative stitching
1.0
(1/16)
1.03.0
(1/161/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
****
Yes
No
(J)
Rfc. **
Zigzag stitch
04
04
04
3.5
(1/8)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.04.0
(03/16)
****
***
Yes Yes
(J)
Rev. *
05
05
05
Overcasting on medium
or stretch fabrics,
05 weight
attaching elastic, darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.57.0
(1/161/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
****
Yes
No
(J)
Rfc. **
06
06
06
on thin or
06 Overcasting
medium weight fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.55.0
(3/323/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. **
07
07
07
5.0
(3/16)
2.55.0
(3/323/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. **
08
08
08
08 Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.54.0
(1/323/16)
****
Yes
No
(J)
Rfc. **
Straight
Overcasting
stitch
Presser Foot
J
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Left
Stitch Name
Pattern
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Utility stitches
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
*Rev.: Reverse
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
***Do not use reverse stitching.
****Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
52
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
09
09
09
0
(0)
3 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.03.5
(1/161/8)
No
No
Rfc. *
10
10
10
10
0
(0)
3 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.03.5
(1/161/8)
No
No
Rfc. *
Appliqu
stitch
11
11
11
11 Appliqu stitching
3.5
(1/8)
2.55.0
(3/323/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.64.0
(1/163/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
Shell tuck
stitch
12
12
12
4.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
Satin scallop
stitch
13
13
13
13 Scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
14
14
14
4.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
5.0
(3/16)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
Presser Foot
09
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem
stitch
Joining stitch
15
15
15
16
16
16
stitching and
16 Patchwork
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
17
17
17
smocking and
17 Fagoting,
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
18
18
18
smocking and
18 Fagoting,
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
19
19
19
19 Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
20
20
20
20 Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
21
21
21
Decorative stitching
5.5
(7/32)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
22
22
22
stitching and
21 Decorative
elastic-attaching
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/64-1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
23
23
23
3.5
(1/8)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
24
24
24
hemming,
23 Decorative
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
25
25
25
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
Fagoting
stitch
Decorative
stitch
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
53
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Walking Foot
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
***
Yes
No
(J)
Rfc. *
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
***
Yes
No
(J)
Rfc. *
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
***
Yes
No
(J)
Rfc. *
Application
Decorative hemming on
24 thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
APPENDIX
26
26
26
27
27
27
28
28
28
29
29
29
Horizontal buttonholes
25 on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
30
30
30
5.0
(3/16)
3.05.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.21.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
31
31
31
1.0
(1/16)
0.52.0
(1/32-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
32
32
32
1.5
(1/16)
1.03.0
(1/16-1/8)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
33
33
33
34
34
35
35
36
36
34
37
37
38
38
Hand-look
quilting
39
39
35
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
40
40
Decorative
stitch
Buttonhole
stitch
Bar tack
stitch
6.0
3.06.0
(15/64) (1/8-15/64)
7.0
(1/4)
3.07.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
7.0
(1/4)
3.07.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
7.0
(1/4)
3.07.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
Reinforcing openings
30 and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
2.0
(1/16)
1.03.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.31.0
(1/64-1/16)
No
No
Auto**
Rfc.
5.5
(7/32)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
No
Yes
Rfc. *
1.5
(1/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.25.0
(1/643/16)
No
Yes
Rfc. *
0.0
(0)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
3.5
(1/8)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.04.0
(03/16)
No
Yes
Rfc. *
Piecing
straight
stitch
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
**Auto Rfc.: AutomaticReinforcement
***Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
54
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
41
1.5
(1/16)
0.55.0
(1/323/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
42
42
1.5
(1/16)
0.55.0
(1/323/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
43
43
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.07.0
(1/161/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.04.0
(1/163/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
44
44
36
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
45
45
37
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
46
46
38
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
47
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
48
47
39
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
49
48
40
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
50
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
51
49
41
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
52
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
53
5.0
(3/16)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
54
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
55
50
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
56
51
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
Presser Foot
41
Appliqu
stitch
(for quilting)
Quilting
stippling
Decorative
stitch
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Pattern
Stitch Name
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
55
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
57
52
42
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
58
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
59
53
43
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
60
54
44
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
61
55
45
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
62
56
46
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
63
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
64
7.0
(1/4)
2.57.0
(3/321/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.11.0
(1/641/16)
Yes**
(J)
No
Rfc. *
65
7.0
(1/4)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
66
6.0
(15/64)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
67
57
47
6.0
(15/64)
0.07.0
(01/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
68
58
48
6.0
(15/64)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
69
59
49
6.0
(15/64)
0.07.0
(01/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.24.0
(1/643/16)
No
No
Rfc. *
Presser Foot
Walking Foot
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Pattern No.
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Stitch Name
Pattern
APPENDIX
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Satin
stitches
Crossstitches
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
56
MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
CAUTION
Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
Make sure you unplug the machine before
you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an
electric shock or be injured.
a
57
APPENDIX
a Bobbin case
surrounding area.
CAUTION
Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XC3152-021), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
a Projection
b Spring
58
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops working properly, check the following possible problems.
If the problem it still there, contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center.
Symptom
Possible cause
The machine is not plugged in.
The sewing
machine does
not work.
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch.
The upper
thread breaks.
page 9
page 9
page 10
page 21
page 22
page 21
You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle.
page 20
page 52
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
The needle
breaks.
Reference
page 12, 13
page 29
page 11
page 16
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
page 20
page 29
page 57
page 21
59
APPENDIX
Symptom
Possible cause
You have not inserted the needle
properly.
Reference
page 21
The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
dle plate is scratched.
authorised service center.
page 11
page 11
page 57
page 11
page 16
page 11
page 20
The thread tension is incorrect. You have not attached the presserfoot holder properly.
page 25
page 29
page 11
page 14, 15
page 20
page 21
page 31
page 29
The upper
thread breaks.
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
The fabric is
wrinkled.
60
page 14, 15
Symptom
Stitches are
skipped.
The needle
threader can not
be used.
Possible cause
Reference
page 16
You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle.
page 20
page 57
page 57
page 16
page 11
page 16
page 21
page 52
page 29
page 57
page 38, 45
page 27
You have not used the right combination of fabric, thread and needle.
page 20
page 57
page 21
61
APPENDIX
ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the
operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.
If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Error Message
Probable Cause
Solution
The foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller is not connected) and the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
was pressed while the presser foot is raised.
Note
If error message F1 through F8 appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the
machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.
62
INDEX
Numerics
accessories .......................................................................8
appliqus .......................................................................42
B
bar tack ..........................................................................46
basic stitching ................................................................33
blind hem stitching.........................................................34
bobbin ...........................................................................14
bobbin case.............................................................14, 57
bobbin cover.............................................................6, 14
bobbin winder.................................................. 11, 59, 62
button sewing.................................................................38
buttonhole foot...............................................................36
buttonhole lever ................................................. 6, 37, 47
buttonhole sewing..........................................................35
needle ............................................................................ 20
needle bar thread guide.................................................... 6
needle clamp screw ..................................................6, 22
needle plate ..................................................................... 6
needle plate cover.......................................................... 57
needle position............................................................... 33
needle position button......................................................6
needle threader .............................................................. 17
openings ........................................................................ 46
operation beep ............................................................... 62
operation buttons ............................................................. 6
operation panel ................................................................ 7
optional accessories ......................................................... 8
overcasting stitches ........................................................ 32
Darning...................................................................32, 41
E
elastic tape .....................................................................41
error messages................................................................62
extra spool pin ...............................................................23
eyelet punch ..................................................................37
F
fagoting ..........................................................................49
fast bobbin winding........................................................12
feed dog position lever ...................................................45
feed dogs...................................................................6, 45
flat bed attachment....................................................7, 31
foot controller ...........................................................8, 28
free-arm style .................................................................31
free-motion quilting........................................................45
H
handwheel .......................................................................5
heirloom stitching ..........................................................51
J
joining............................................................................51
joining stitch ...........................................................42, 48
L
LCD .................................................................................7
R
reinforcement stitching................................................... 46
reverse/reinforcement stitch button................................... 6
S
scallop stitching ............................................................. 49
seam ripper .................................................................... 37
sewing machine needles ................................................ 20
sewing speed controller.................................................... 6
sleeve holes.................................................................... 46
smocking........................................................................ 50
spool pin .................................................................11, 16
start/stop button.........................................................6, 28
stitch length.................................................................... 27
stitch selection key ........................................................... 7
stitch settings.................................................................. 52
stitch width .................................................................... 27
straight stitch .................................................................. 33
stretch fabrics ................................................................. 31
63
T
thick fabrics....................................................................30
thin fabrics .....................................................................31
thread cutter...................................................................29
thread guide ...................................................................16
thread tension ................................................................29
trial sewing.....................................................................30
triple stretch stitch ..........................................................33
troubleshooting ..............................................................59
twin needle ....................................................................22
U
upper tension-control dial ..............................................29
upper threading..............................................................16
W
walking foot ...................................................................44
wing needle ...................................................................51
64
ncbc_brother_cover_Eng
PANTONE 285
KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Operation Manual