Hair knowledge& Scalp Science

Sept 2014

Vicki Li

85-90%

Hair structure

Hair Growth Cycle

TELOGEN

3. Regression:
Club hair formed;
apoptosis in lower
follicle leads to
loss of bulb.

4. Resting

CATAGEN
EARLY
ANAGEN

2. Maintenance of growth:
Formation of mature hair
shaft.
MATURE
ANAGEN

1. Initiation of growth:
Dermal papilla expands;
cells divide in bulb and
migrate around dermal
papilla;
Start of hair formation.

Hair Greasy Type

Normal hair
Dry hair

N to Oil
9%

normal to dry

Oil
14%

Oily hair

Oil
29%

N to Oil
12%

Dry
22%

N to D
10%

Normal to oil

Male

Female

Dry
14%

Normal
45%
N to D
7%

Normal
38%

:1.
:2-3.
:3-4
:
:

Gender

Health Hair Property

Hair fibre is very strong:

Average healthy head of hair
can handle 12 metric tons!

DID YOU KNOW?

Ideal Hair

For most respondents, the ideal hair

should be:
Healthy
Straight
Shiny
Black
Elastic
Smooth
Easy

to manage/comb
Free from any problems (i.e. dandruff, itchy
scalp, hair loss, etc.)

Hair Strengthen
Interesting Fact! The average healthy head of hair (120 000 hairs) could handle
12 metric tons!
Strength,durability,flexibility

How does it compare with other materials?

Material

Tensile Strength (Mpa)

Elastic Modulus
(GPa)
4

Hair

120

Nylon 6,6

830

20

Aluminium

110

70

Steel

550

195

50g

70g

90g

>100g


(Moisture content)
Greater extensibility at higher humidity; lower elastic modulus

Wet and dry tensile properties directly proportional to fibre diameter

Increasing temperature, decreases elastic modulus, increases

extensibility
Increasing temperature, decreases post-yield modulus and fibre
strength

Disulphide bond cleavage affects wet strength; small effect on dry

tensile properties

Decrease in tensile properties of 5-20%; greater effect on wet tensile

properties

Causes of Hair Problems

I. Environmental Factors:

Dust
Sun
Wind
Dry / Cold Weather/ Static

II. Pollution Factors:

Smoke from pollution

III. Hair Care/ Product Problems:

Harsh or incompatible hair products

Mentholated AD shampoo
Malnourishment
Wash hair too often
Chemical residue on hair
Styling products

IV. Blow Drying

V. Biological Problems:

Malnutrition/ Dieting
Aging
Medication
Genetic (wavy hair group)
Hair too long

VI. Chemical Treatment

Hair Coloring
Perm
Hair Straightening

VII. Other Factors

Stress
Chlorine

Hair Damage Progress ()

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Science of Scalp

Hair Category Induction

GDC --Vicki Li

Topics

Understanding scalp

Current understanding of DD

What is dandruff?

The role of barrier

The role of Malassezia

What do we know biochemically about dandruff?

Life stage,region,Gender and Scalp

Scalp is Skin

Underneath our hair, the scalp is just like skin on the

rest of our body

Scalp Skin Structure

Nerves

Sweat
Glands

Blood
vessels

Sebaceous
Glands

Hair follicles

And as such contains the same key structures found

in the rest of our skin

Scalp Structure

Scalp (Skin) Structure

Cement-Brick Wall

Epidermis

Dermis

Subcutaneous Fat

Scalp Skin Barrier

The stratum corneum acts as a barrier to prevent

external irritants from penetrating into the scalp. The
barrier also helps to keep water within the skin

Topics

Understanding scalp

Current understanding of DD

What is dandruff?

The role of barrier

The role of Malassezia

What do we know biochemically about dandruff?

Life stage,region,Gender and Scalp

Dandruff scalp
Dandruff is an excessive shedding of scalp skin cells.

Common problem which affects 50% of population

Healthy Scalp

Cells lost &

invisible to eye

Unhealthy Scalp

Cells adhere to each other

& to scalp - form flakes

Dandruff

Which for many people disrupts the process of

desquamation leading to scalp skin cells being lost as
large visible flakes a.k.a dandruff!

Scalp Barrier Damage

UV radiation

Stress

Sebum

Microbes

Diet

Products

Sweat

Sickness / Disease

Humidity

Pollution

Hormones

The scalp barrier can be damaged by external factors

such as harsh shampoos and microbes and internal
factors such as stress and diet

Scalp Barrier Damage

A damages scalp barrier allows the waste products of

the fungus, Malassezia to penetrate into the scalp

Why Dandruff

Malassezia -- Suspicious Chief Criminal

Microorganism
Yeast
~ 5 - 20 m
Foods
Lipids on the scalp or
among corneocytes

Metabolized Products

Free Fatty Acids

MALASSEZIA AND DANDRUFF

The role of Malassezia in dandruff is still not clear. However dandruff scalps generally have
more Malassezia & for most people, killing Malassezia decreases dandruff

In dandruff, the waste products of Malassezia (such as free fatty acids) are thought to
penetrate into a leaky scalp aggravating dandruff.

However, some people have high levels of Malassezia without dandruff. Possibly, strong
enough can keep out Malassezia secretions

On use of AD products, 90% bugs are killed in first wash itself. Malessezia nos likely lead Scalp
health in active phase, lags scalp health in regression phase

Weak scalp skin barrier

Inflammation

Strong scalp skin barrier

Topics

Understanding scalp

Current understanding of DD

What is dandruff?

The role of barrier

The role of Malassezia

What do we know biochemically about dandruff?

Life stage,region,Gender and Scalp

Life Stage and Scalps

Ethnicity

Environment

adults
teens

Menopause
elderly

Pregnancy
teens

Middle age
adults

Scalp condition can change with age, and ethnicity

Scalp & Babies

Babies and children do not tend to get dandruff.

However, babies under a year old can sometimes have
a conditions known as cradle cap. This is due to their
scalps producing too much oil (sebum)

Scalp & Teenagers

As with acne, dandruff begins at puberty, when

hormones make sebaceous glands produce lots of
sebum. This is a tasty food source for Malassezia !

Scalp & Hormones

Hormonal changes during pregnancy and the

menopause are thought to make dandruff worse

Dandruff and the Seasons

Dandruff is generally much worse in the winter than

it is in the summer

Dandruff and Gender

One study in Australia showed that men suffered more from dandruff
(48.9%) than women (36%)

MALES

FEMALES

TEENS

Dandruff
Scalp dryness

Sebum
Scalp Odour
*Study in BKK

SOLUSION
FOR DANDRUFF

What is our solution for DD

Anti-microbio

Anti-dandruff shampoos are used to treat scalp

problems such as itch and flakes. Their first job is to
clean the hair and scalp. They also contain AD
actives which are very good at killing Malassezia

Treating Scalp Issues

Cleaning the hair and scalp and reducing the levels

of Malassezia on the scalp surface, allows the scalp
barrier to recover. This helps the scalp to retain
moisture and reduces dandruff and itching

Q&A
Whats the main structure of hair?
What are the key causes of dandruff?
How many stages for hair growth?
Whats that?

Thank you